GROOMING & STYLE
GROOMING & STYLE
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SAY ‘I DO’ IN ST YLE WITH OUR GROOM SWE AR PICKS
suit Clive Darby was at Richard James and Killgour before establishing Rake London to cater to the 70s lounge lizard lurking in all men. For S/S 14 sporty blazers, tuxedos and double-breasted jackets come in Glenn plaids. rakestyle.com
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WORDS HELEN JENNINGS PHOTOGR APHY THE ENGLISH GENTLEM AN – GEORGE GARNIER
Sammy Aki's grooms get ready for their big day
AS THE SUCCESS OF LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN (LC:M) TESTIFIES, Models at the LC:M BRITAIN IS THE HOME OF THE WELLThe English Gentleman S/S 14 presentation DRESSED MAN. THE HOMEGROWN menswear market is now worth £10billion The style of the suit depends on how and predicted to overtake womenswear formal the wedding is and the man’s build. sales by 2016. It seems that gents are finally While two-button, single-breasted suits are as proud to preen as the fairer sex, so it’s no de rigueur, a slim fit double-breasted suit or wonder that this mood is trickling through formal morning suit can be just as dapper. into the groom’s wardrobe too. It’s true that Meanwhile, a three-piece suit allows you to grooms still spend less on their look than spruce up in a waistcoat for the wedding then brides (£313 versus £1,340 according to a wear it as a two-piece recent Brides magazine ‘A good suit can be worn on other occasions. survey) but if you Aki also takes grooms consider that a good for a lifetime, unlike a shopping for the suit can be worn for a white wedding dress’ shirt and tie, plus lifetime – unlike a white accessories such as a pocket square and wedding dress – then investing in a good tiepin. It’s those personal touches that mark one for your big day doesn’t seem quite so out the groom’s outfit as unique. ‘One of my outlandish after all. clients met his bride-to-be at a bus stop so Sammy Aki aka The Groom Style I had some bus-shaped cufflinks engraved Consultant is the go-to personal stylist with the numbers of the respective buses for men preparing for their big day. With a they were waiting for just before they met,’ background in fashion magazines, buying says Aki. and PR, she now caters to the growing Each groom is an individual but Aki has numbers of imagesome fail-safe advice for all grooms. ‘Try on conscious husbandsa few types of suit to find to-be. ‘The days of the right shape for you guys running into and choose a fabric suited the local hire shop the climate and season. to pick up a suit and matching cravats for the The break on your trouser is a matter of opinion groomsmen are waning. but the hem should My clients are busy men never bunch on the floor. who know what they Coordinate your outfit want and are seeking with the rest of the bridal help to turn their dream outfit into a reality,’ party but this doesn’t says Aki of her one-to-one service. ‘At first mean you have to match we discuss when and where they’re getting your tie to the tablecloth! married, what the bride is wearing and And remember to always what the time scale and budget are. I create be true to yourself. You a moodboard reflecting the colours and have to feel comfortable themes of the wedding and then take them to in order to look your best.’ the right brand or tailor.’
Retro neckwear from Marwood
Aki is also part of the team behind The English Gentleman, the Savile Row and St James’s collective at LC:M. The show acts as a barometer for British suiting trends each season, which Aki then expresses to her clients. S/S 14 grooms should consider pastels. ‘Fun grooms want colour on their wedding day. Why not try aqua blue, coral or a soft pink with mother of pearl buttons. A lot of guys want a grey suit but there’s a huge range of shades within grey to consider, from dove to charcoal,’ says Aki. Savile Row stalwart Richard Anderson has suited grooms from around the world. ‘Grooms come to us because, if you’ll excuse the pun, we offer the best marriage of Savile Row traditions with forwardthinking tailoring,’ says Anderson, who has dressed the likes of Benicio del Toro and has collaborated with young London designer Katie Eary for A/W 14. ‘When a groom walks through our door he’ll get something that little bit different.’ While offering readyto-wear suits and made-to-measure, it’s their bespoke service that allows for full creative freedom. This option doesn’t come cheap, but it’s worth it. ‘All design decisions are catered to you. For example, we can match the suit lining to the shirt or tie. We want to make the gentleman feel as special choosing his suit as the bride does her dress.’ Groomzillas walk this way. sammyaki.com
tie Marwood by Becky French specialises in stylish gentleman’s accessories all made in England using British silks, lace, and wool. Their S/S 14 geometric prints were inspired by Icelandic artist Orri Jónsson. marwoodlondon.co.uk
Luxe cufflinks by Alice Made This
c u f flin k s Handcrafted cufflinks make a feature of your cuffs. Alice Made This by Alice Walsh uses age-old manufacturing methods to create luxur y cufflinks from precious metals, ceramics and rope. alicemadethis.com Dancing shoes from Mr Hare
s h oes Mr. Hare shoes are ‘created to make the wearer look stylish and in control,’ so they’re just the thing for grooms to wear for the first dance – and if designer Marc Hare has anything to do with it, the last dance too. mrhare.co.uk
Ghana groom: Sammy Aki is inspired by different cultures
gr oom in g
The grooming club at Toni&Guy
The Gentleman’s Grooming Club at Toni&Guy Canar y Wharf offers a bespoke ser vice that starts with a cut throat shave using Dermalogica products followed by a head massage and hair wash using label.m Peppermint Treatment Conditioner, and finally a cut and style. To make an appointment, call 020 7987 6222. @TONIANDGUYUK
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