GROOMING & STYLE
ANATOMY OF A SUIT TH E SUIT M A K ETH TH E M A N. A G O OD O N E WIL L H ELP YOU L O OK TA L L E R A N D SLI M M E R A N D F E EL TOP-NOTCH. W H ETH E R YOU OP T F OR O N E OF F TH E PEG, M A DE TO M E A SU R E OR BESP OK E, N O G E N TL E M A N’S W A R DROBE IS CO M PL ET E WITHOU T O N E. H E R E A R E TH E K EY P OIN TS TO CO NSIDE R W H E N CHO OSING TH E R IGHT SUIT F OR YOU
Fit
Lapels
Your suit jacket should be snug on the shoulders and contour to your body. A slightly nipped-in waist will help your shoulders look broader and your waist smaller. A good jacket will be canvassed (have a layer of canvas between the outer fabric and inner lining that helps the jacket maintain its shape) rather than fused (where an interlining is glued to the shell of the suit).
Choose a peak lapel (where the collar and lapel both point upward where they meet) for a formal look on a doublebreasted jacket or tail coat; a notch lapel (where the collar and lapel meet at an angle) on a single breasted jacket for a more versatile look, and a shawl lapel (where there is a continuous curve) on a tuxedo for the evening.
Colour
Style
Fabric Choose a lightweight fabric such as plain cotton, whipcord or seersucker for summer and heavier options such as corduroy, flannel or tweed for winter. Avoid crease-ridden linen, unless you’re Seal.
Pockets Pockets should be covered by flaps. To add a little charm, opt for a ticket pocket (a smaller pocket above the right hand pocket) but this is purely decorative – don’t deign to use it.
Sleeves &Cuffs
Vents Don’t neglect the back of your jacket. A centre vent is a clean look while two give a more rakish appearance. You decide.
Trousers Wear trousers as slim and tapered as you can get away with and minimise the break at the ankle. Button tap closures, silky linings and coin pockets are all finer touches, as are cuffs.
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Sleeves should be slim and just the right length to show off a quarter to half an inch of shirt cuff. This lengthens the look of your arms and creates an elegant finishing touch. It also makes the most of snazzy cufflinks.
WORDS HELEN JENNINGS PHOTOGR APHY COURTESY OF RICHARD ANDERSON
Grey and navy are safe colours, but in the summer it’s fun to experiment with bolder colour and print. For S/S 14, whites were popular at Jil Sander, Spencer Hart and Dolce & Gabbana while Givenchy and Gucci showed casual floral suits. If you opt for a pinstripe, check, herringbone or tartan, keep it subtle.
You can’t go wrong with a singlebreasted jacket, no matter your height or build. A low button stance will create a longer, slimmer torso. Double-breasted jackets should be kept short and have six buttons, with the last one left undone. A three-piece suit is a confident look so keep all other styling to a minimum.
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Richard Anderson's cutter hard at work