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Rice and Shine
CREDIT: SANDRA DESAUTELS
A full day of workouts, wellness and even white-water rafting in Bali’s cultural capital. By Ric Stockfis
Lontong at Sari Organik
CREDIT: MATT OLDFIELD
CREDIT: SANDRA DESAUTELS
View from the Campuhan Ridge
The Yoga Barn
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Uma by COMO Ubud
Campuhan Ridge
JALAN RAYA SANGING AN
t’s not immediately apparent why people rave about before your next physical activity: it’s on-site at the The Ubud. The alleged tourist highlight—the Monkey Yoga Barn (Jalan Raya Pengosekan, +62 3 6197-1236, www. Forest—is underwhelming. The main streets through theyogabarn.com). You’ll hear this five-studio center talked town are terribly tacky. What with the crowds of holier-thanabout in hushed, reverential tones by the type of folk who thou yoga devotees and earnest Eat Pray Love pilgrims, it’s come to Ubud to find themselves—but it really is among tempting to write the place off as yet another spoiled stop on the best places in town to practice your downward dog (see the tourist trail. But step away from the center and Ubud’s our interview with founder Charley Patton, right). Classes charms become more apparent, especially if you treat your start from 7am and all run for 90 minutes, but those in the stay there as a chance to get fit and healthy rather than simply middle of the afternoon (3pm) are typically pitched at an sight-see. introductory level and run the gamut from meditation and 7am. It’s worth getting out of bed early to beat the heat Vinyasa flow to acro-yoga and even Capoeira. and run the Campuhan Ridge. The hilly 7.5km circuit is by 5:30pm. There are few places better to watch the no means easy, but it affords stunning views into the lush sun go down (and catch your breath after the day you’ve valleys on either side and the path beyond takes just had) than Pomegranate you through neon green rice fields, past faded old (+62 878 6080-3632, www. temples and quiet villages; it’s a shame, though, cafepomegranate.org), a canvasUma by COMO Ubud that to complete the loop you have to run a roofed, open-to-the-elements Naughty Nuri’s Warung couple of clicks on the road. The starting point café and bar perched right in Sari Organik is hidden away to the left as you enter the Ibah the middle of the rice fields, with Resort (see map). mountains looming on the horizon. Artists Villages & rice terraces 8:30am. Time for a well-earned breakfast! It’s a delightful 15-minute walk up Pomegranate Start with the healthy dishes on the menu a single-track (and somewhat secret) at Kemiri, one of the on-site restaurants at pathway from the main road. Drinks Uma by COMO Ubud (see STAY next page). are far from fancy, but with views like Recent offerings include an egg white tortilla this you don’t need them to be. Get there and a tropical fruit salad with bee pollen (both early to grab a seat on the edge—and bring IDR200,000) as well as juice blends like the Lean a flashlight if you’re planning to walk back Ibah Resort and Clean Greens (apple, fennel, cucumber, down in the dark. spinach, green pepper, celery, sunflower 8pm. If you want to end the JL . R AYA seeds, macadamia nuts and spirulina powder; day on a healthy high then walk UBU D IDR65,000); but the menu changes regularly. just a minute further uphill for 10am. Straight back into the fray. Join a dinner at Sari Organik (+62 3 white-water rafting expedition (US$50 ($63)) 6197-2087, www.sari-organik. organized by the Ubud-based Bali Bike com), which serves up dishes BaikTours (Banjar Laplapan, Petulu, +62 03 like lontong (rice cooked in 6197-8052, www.balibike.com). The 14km banana leaves with vegetables, route along the Ayung River (half an hour tofu and tempeh in curry sauce) drive from Ubud) involves some Class III and raw Thai soup (a mishrapids, so be prepared to get wet. They also offer The Yoga mash of cashew nut, cucumber, Barn full-day bike tours, which see you freewheeling mushrooms, turmeric, pepper (most of) the 20-something kilometers downhill and coriander) made from Monkey Pomegranate Forest from Mount Kintamani. produce grown in their own 2pm. Ubud’s first raw food restaurant, the vegegarden right next door. vegan Garden Kafe, is a great spot to grab a quick bite JL . RAYA
HANOM AN
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I‑S MAGAZINE FRIDAY, May 9, 2014
If, on the other hand, all this talk of wellness is getting a bit too much and you just want to have fun, it’s time to head back down to the main road and grab a seat at Naughty Nuri’s Warung (Jalan Raya Sanggingan, +62 3 6197-7547). This ribs and grill specialist is packed most nights, with clientele spilling out onto the streets. Anthony Bourdain reckons they serve the best martinis outside of New York, so odds are you’ll need to run through the whole cycle again tomorrow just to undo the damage. n
Q&A Charley Patton Co-founder of The Yoga Barn Why a barn? A barn is a rustic, unpretentious, come-dressedas-you-are kind of place. And our buildings are all traditional, craftsman-style, created with reclaimed structures and recycled wood, all Charley Patton within the cultural and local aesthetic of Bali. So we truly resemble an Indonesian version of a barn. How common is this kind of place in Bali now? We opened the Barn in 2007. But in the last five years in particular, the wellness industry in Bali has grown exponentially. Yoga studios, retreat centers, eco-villages, organic farming operatives, fair trade clothing manufacturers and health-conscious restaurants have popped up everywhere to meet the demand. I see Bali becoming the spiritual epicenter of Southeast Asia. Who might we find at The Yoga Barn? People from all countries and all cultures. On a typical day we have anywhere from 250-350 people coming through our open doors. We offer the ultimate “Yogic Buffet” for the spiritually inclined tourist. Whether a complete beginner, an experienced practitioner or somewhere in between, we have something on offer. Everyone who has a body can do yoga. Ric Stockfis
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ESCAPE ROUTES
with Delle Chan
Essentials STAY Ubud isn’t exactly short of accommodation, but it can be hit and miss. Luxe spot Uma by COMO Ubud (Jalan Raya Sanggingan) is well located for the itinerary above and ideally suited for anyone looking for a holistic, healthy weekend. Rates start from US$820 ($1,030) for a minimum two-night package, with their pool villas going for US$1,180 ($1,480) for two nights. The on-site COMO Shambala Retreat is the perfect tonic for over-exerted bodies, with a 90-minute deep tissue massage available for IDR730,000 ($80). The hotel also offers complimentary yoga classes and early morning walks, as well as healthy cuisine at both Kemiri (pictured right) and Italian restaurant Uma Cucina. Packages include “Discover Ubud Culture” (an additional US$305 ($382) for two nights), which involves tours of the markets, group yoga and a choice between white-water rafting, a freewheel mountain bike ride and a chauffeured tour of Ubud. Book with Mr and Mrs Smith (800 321-1098; www. mrandmrssmith.com/luxury-hotels/uma-by-como-ubud) for special rates.
Kemiri InterContinental Nha Trang
GETTING THERE Singapore Airlines, Garuda, Tigerair, AirAsia and Jetstar all have daily direct flights from Singapore to Bali. AirAsia’s 9:05pm flight (www.airasia.com) is your best bet if you’re looking to head off straight after work, with fares starting from $225 return, including taxes.
VIETNA M
VISA AND GETTING AROUND
If you’ve been dreaming about a beach holiday, consider the InterContinental Nha Trang, a new beachfront retreat with 56 sumptuously furnished suites, three outdoor swimming pools, a fitness center, as well as a top-notch spa—perfect if you’re looking to relax and rejuvenate. Take advantage of the hotel’s opening promo rates— prices start from US$119 (S$150) a night for bookings made between April 1 and June 30. Visit ihg.com/ intercontinental for more info.
Singaporeans don’t need a visa to enter Bali, but most other nationalities do: it’s US$25 ($31) on arrival. You’ll also need to hold onto IDR200,000 ($22) for the departure tax on your way home. Getting from Denpasar to Ubud takes an hour by taxi: the official rate is IDR300,000 ($33).
EXCHANGE RATE IDR10,000 = $1.10
Grand opening
Rimba Jimbaran Bali
Beach Baby
Guide Me Speaking of Vietnam, map specialist Nancy Chandler has recently launched a comprehensive (and pretty neat) illustrated map of Hanoi, following the success of their Bangkok and Chiang Mai maps. The map covers downtown Hanoi, greater Hanoi, Tay Ho, the city’s two biggest markets, as well as the Old Quarter— it also comes with a small guidebook covering attractions such as ice skating, cinemas and shops. Order it online for US$15.95 ($20) from nancychandler.net.
Rimba Jimbaran Bali’s Three Monkey Pool
THAIL AND Overview: Well-known mammoth property Ayana Resort and Spa’s 77-hectare grounds now houses sister cliff-top resort Rimba Jimbaran Bali. Staying true to its name (“Rimba” means “forest”), the eco-friendly, 282-room hotel is surrounded with seemingly endless greenery. Design: Contemporary, minimal with sharp architectural lines—a wholly different vibe from Ayana’s traditional Balinese aesthetic. The lush landscaping, replete with a tree-lined entrance and scenic trails, give the vast, tranquil and otherwise-urban space (Rimba spreads across eight hectares) the feel of an expansive national park. On-site, there are also gardens growing organic produce, rainwater harvesting and water recycling plant, furniture made from recycled packing crates and a rooftop bar featuring recycled glass bottles. Rave: As if the resort’s own restaurants, bars, gorgeous pools and spa aren’t enough, guests
can shuttle to Ayana to enjoy all of its facilities, dine at its seven restaurants, get priority access to the famed and picture-perfect Rock Bar and soak in the world’s largest Aquatonic Seawater Therapy Pool. With activities like cooking classes, yoga sessions and nature walks, you won’t even need to leave the resort for things to do. Rant: It’s about 30 to 40 minutes (by car, with heavy traffic factored in) from the thick of Bali’s rollicking and tourist-saturated Kuta Beach and Seminyak areas—a little inconvenient if you’re there to party your weekend away.
Bring Your Entourage
treatment, butler service...the list goes on. Plus, you’ll have magnificent views of the ocean for company. Rates start from a cool THB99,000 (S$3,878); see hideaway.avistahotelsandresorts. com for more details. On the topic of Thailand, don’t miss our upcoming pull-out guide to Chiang Mai in the next issue (May 23), which we’re working on with our friends at Thai Airways. MYANM AR
Meals and Wheels Foodies listen up: Globetrotting Gourmet’s upcoming two food tours of Myanmar will enable you to experience first-hand the country’s multifaceted culinary culture. You’ll get to go on market tours and river cruises and watch Burmese cooking demonstrations, among other things. There’ll be lots of eating involved as well—highlights include mohinga (fish chowder with noodles), Burmese teas, semolina cakes and more. Prices start from US$2,795 ($3,526) upwards; hurry and book your slot at globetrottinggourmet. com (there are typically only 16 places available).
Burmese Scotch Eggs
Planning an island getaway to Phuket? You can now go (very) luxe with Avista Hideaway Resort and Spa’s latest Tropical Escape package, which includes a four-night stay in a Tropical Hideaway Pool Suite, round-trip transfers by private limousine, a bottle of sparkling wine, daily buffet breakfast, a 45-minute traditional Ayurvedic
CHINA
The North Remembers
Always wanted to visit Hangzhou’s picturesque West Lake? Then bookmark SilkAir, which will be flying there (its eighth Chinese destination) from June 27. The regional carrier will fly four times a week—Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday—to Hangzhou on its Airbus A319 and A320 aircrafts, which also have Business Class cabins. See silkair.com for more details.
Price: From US$195 ($245)/night Karang Mas Estate, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran, Bali, +62 (36) 1846-8468, www.rimbajimbaran.com. CRYSTAL LEE
Now available for your iPad & Android Tablet The all-new Where® Singapore app —your complete guide to go.
Available for download now! FRIDAY, May 9, 2014 I‑S MAGAZINE
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