escapes
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DESTINATION GUIDE
Sweet Valley High Bumthang, in central Bhutan, encapsulates all that’s great about the Himalayan mountain kingdom. By Ric Stockfis
Bumthang Valley
Nomad Festival
Bumthang Brewery
Ura
T
he four valleys that make up the once independent kingdom of Bumthang aren’t exactly easy to get to. The main town of Jakar is a 12-hour drive from the capital, Thimpu, along bumpy, twisting mountain roads (locals say there’s a turn every nine seconds) that cross several passes more than 3,000m in elevation. Jakar itself sits at a breezy 2,580m. But make it out this far and you’re rewarded with breathtaking scenery, endless hiking trails, millennia-old temples, fascinating festivals and even Bhutan’s best beer. Here are four highlights.
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Awesome hiking
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Fab festivals
There are some serious treks around Bumthang, with the six-day Rodang La and eight-day Duer Hot Springs treks both starting in Jakar. There’s also the more straightforward Owl Trek (named for all the hooting at night) which takes just three days. Hiking up and down the main valley is a great way to acclimatize, and gives you a chance to take in Bumthang’s religious highlights, which include the Pelseling Goemba (lotus tree monastery) perched high above the treeline; the Jampey Lhakhang, built as far back as 659; and the Kurjey Lhakhang, a huge temple complex built into a rockface. We found temple fatigue kicking in after three or four stops, but taken alone, any one of these is an incredible experience.
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Feeling like an extra on the set of Game of Thrones
Of Bumthang’s four valleys (Chhume, Chokor, Tang and Ura) most of the action is in Chokor, but Ura in particular is worth a detour. (Look out for views of Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed peak, on the journey over there.) The highest of the valleys, it offers some spectacular hiking, as well as an easy, hour-long descent through the forests to the village of Ura itself, a tiny settlement of traditional wooden farmhouses and smoking chimneys. If visiting Bhutan feels like stepping into Westeros, nowhere is that feeling more intense than in Ura. The village also plays host to its own annual festival—the lively, local liquorfuelled Ura Yakchoe.
Colorful religious festivals known as tshechu— fabulous, four-day affairs that attract everyone from the surrounding region—are an important part of local life and you should try and catch at least one (check www.visitbhutanyear.com for what’s on where and when). But there are also a host of lower profile festivals in every corner of the country. We were in Bumthang in February and spent a fun day watching archery and strongman contests and trying on traditional headgear at the annual Nomad Festival, which draws herdsmen and hill tribes down from the Himalayas.
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
The valleys of Bumthang look remarkably like Switzerland, and in fact the Swiss and Bhutanese have been actively cooperating for more than 40 years, with the Swiss introducing modern farming machinery and techniques to the previously closed-off country. The most visible and fun legacy is the Swiss Farm, where cheese-making and beer brewing were first introduced to the valley. The Red Panda weissbeer, produced since 2006 by the Bumthang Brewery (+975 363-1197) in a tiny, unassuming facility (tours should be booked ahead of time and cost $6/person), is the country’s best brew, and you can pick up honey, cheese and jam for a perfect picnic from the neighboring cheese factory. It’s a five minute drive out of Jakar up the eastern side of the valley.
A Detour to Phobjika
Amankora Gangtey
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Kicking back with a craft beer
A turn off on the road between Punakha and Bumthang winds down to the beautiful Phobjika valley, and makes for a very worthwhile detour for a night or two. This huge, glacially-carved landscape is an important wildlife reserve and particularly popular with people hoping to see the extremely rare blacknecked cranes, but it’s also a great place for some easy, flat hiking, with incredible views. We stayed at the Amankora Gangtey (www.amanresorts. com), which looks directly down the valley at the area’s main religious site, the 17th-century Gangtey Goemba. If you decide to stretch for one night at Aman while you’re in Bhutan, make it this one.
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Essentials
Amankora Bumthang
WHERE TO STAY Aman Resorts (www.amanresorts.com) have five small lodges across Bhutan. Amankora Bumthang (from $1,270 plus 20% local charges/night, all-inclusive) sits just back from the river and houses both a functioning monastery and a crumbling royal palace within its grounds. The 16 rooms all face the huge mountains on the other side of the valley, and feature traditional wood-fired bukhari heaters. They offer a host of daily activities from farmhouse dinners to birdwatching and local astrology readings, though we were more interested in the in-house spa after a day of hiking in the hills. Aside from the odd night of luxury, all our accommodation was included as part of our package with Druk Asia (see right) and in Bumthang we also spent a few happy nights at the three-star, family-run Rinchenling Lodge (+975 363 1147, www.rinchenling.com).
ESCAPE ROUTES
Amankora Bumthang
WHEN TO GO March through May and September through November are neither too cold, nor too wet. GETTING THERE Fly from Singapore to Paro with Drukair (www.drukair.com.sg) for around $1,250 return. Flights—with layovers in Kolkata— depart Singapore on Thursdays and Saturdays, returning on Wednesdays and Saturdays. VISA AND GETTING AROUND A visa is required for all visitors to Bhutan (other than Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian nationals), and can only be obtained through authorized travel agencies like Druk Asia (6338-9909, www.drukasia. com). They can also coordinate your trip, with a 10-day itinerary incorporating Paro, Thimpu, and the Punakha, Phobjika and Bumthang valleys starting from $2,510 in Summer/ Winter and $3,120 for Spring/Fall, including all tourist royalties, your driver and guide, daily meals and three-star accommodation.
GRAND OPENING Le Meridien Thimpu
U Koh Madsum
ilLido Bali
THAILAND
VIETNAM
Flight of Fancy
Heading Eastin
Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com. sg) is turning five and using the occasion to up its in-flight meal game by treating you to a dish dreamed up by formidable husband-and-wife duo, Dylan and Bo of Bo.Lan, which regularly features on San Pellegrino’s Asia’s 50 Best list. This special service is available on selected flights from Singapore to Bangkok from now until Aug 15.
Island Life
Overview: Open since December 2014, this is Bhutan’s first international-standard business hotel. Previously, visitors to the capital had to choose between five-star luxury at the likes of Taj Tashi or Aman and more middle-of-the-road options. When we visited, the suites were yet to open and the pool was still under construction, but otherwise the Starwood sheen was already on full show: expect this centrally-located, 78-room spot to corner a big chunk of the market in the coming months. Another Le Meridien opened in Paro in May 2015. Design: Bhutanese architecture is one of the country’s most striking features and it’s nice to see that, unlike some of the modern concrete blocks now dotted around the capital, Le Meridien takes its cues from tradition. It’s a six-story building
that incorporates colors, materials and inspiration from the country’s temples and dzongs, with heavy wooden doors and furnishings in the lobby and Buddhist elements on the walls of the rooms. Both of the in-house restaurants feature a stonepaved courtyard for alfresco dining. Rave: Huge mountain views from pretty much every window. And after a week of so-so food and—in winter at least—cold bathrooms elsewhere in the country, the modern rooms and continental breakfast here will come as very welcome relief. Their partnership with Illy means a break from the ubiquitous instant coffee, too. Rant: Why does Le Meridien persist in charging for WiFi? Price: From $270 per night.
Thai Airways
If you like beach holidays, consider the new 37-villa U Koh Madsum (118 Moo 2, Koh Madsum, +66 0 7795-3099 www. ukohmadsumsamui.com) that will be opening on its own private island come Jul 1. Located just 10 minutes from Koh Samui, you’ll be close enough to all the action but far enough so you won’t have to share the unspoiled beaches with the rowdy party crowd. Opening rates start at THB4,299 ($171) for two people per night in their Tented Villas. Valid until Dec 31. KOREA
Party Town
Korea played host to Miami’s popular mega EDM shindig Ultra Music Festival and is showing no signs of slowing down. Indie music festival, Rainbow Festival (www.rainbowfestival.co.kr), is taking place from Jun 21-22 and will feature popular Korean acts like Junggigo, and Kyuhyun from Super Junior. Tickets start at 44,000 Won ($54). For EDM fans, there’s 5Tardium (www.5tardium.com) on Jul 4 that features five stages complete with fireworks display and a giant LED puppet. Tickets start at 66,000 Won ($81).
A spiffy new hotel recently opened in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. The 268-room Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon (253 Nguyen Van Troi St., +84 8 38449222, www.eastinhotelsresidences. com) is a mere 10-minute drive from the Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 from the city center and it boasts clean, white interiors. For food, pick from five restaurants including Lotus Court Chinese restaurant and Iki Japanese Restaurant and there’s also a swimming pool and gym. Introductory rates start at US$90 ($123) and are valid until Jun 30. INDONESIA
Foodie Calendar
There’s plenty happening on the food front in Bali to get excited about. Sheraton Kuta Bali’s (Jalan Pantai Kuta, +62 36 1846-5555, www. sheraton.com/balikuta) Italian trattoria Bene is offering a slew of food-centric events every day of the week until Jun 30. So on Sundays, the Bene team will create dishes using groceries you bought from the Feast Market Brunch. And one of Singapore’s hottest Italian restaurants has set up shop in Seminyak with ilLido Bali (Jalan Raya Kerobokan No 38, +62 3 6173-1175) that features a chic wooden interior and a large alfresco dining area.
Chorten Lam, +975 2 337788, lemeridien.com. RIC STOCKFIS
FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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