5 reasons why now's a great time to visit Yangon

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All That Glitters 5 reasons why now’s a great time to visit Yangon. By Ric Stockfis

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Union Bar & Grill

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or all the charm of its crumbling colonial past, Yangon is one of South East Asia’s grittier cities (think Jakarta, with only mildly less gridlock). But as Myanmar continues its slow, forward-backward steps toward opening up, the former capital is becoming a boomtown for both Burmese and foreigners on the make, and a fascinating microcosm of a nation in flux. Here are at least five reasons why now’s a great time to go see the city for yourself.

expat apartment options on Airbnb than a week’s notice and there are (www.airbnb.com.sg), and with already some interesting new Last time we tried to go (2011) our visa a bit of digging you can find options available. application was quickly rejected (with some great deals. Alex and For years, the Traders hindsight, writing journalist on the form Saskia’s apartment ($66/night; was one of the few reliable, was an easy mistake to avoid). This time it is.gd/yangonalex) is centrally international-standard was issued the same day ($35 for a tourist located, near to the Loft Hotel, business hotels in town; and visa) and we were on a flight 48 hours later. and gets great write-ups. For after a two-year renovation Getting the visa in person is straightforward views of Shwedagon Paya, Jerry it relaunched in April 2014 as enough, though you need to make an and Kamil’s ($66/night; is.gd/ the upmarket Sule Shangri-La Sule appointment through visa.mesgservice.com yangonjerry) looks pretty awesome, too. (#223 Sule Pagoda Rd., +95 (1) 24Shangri-La before going to the embassy (15 St Martin’s 2828; www.shangri-la.com/yangon/ Dr., 6735-0209). But, if you’d rather not get suleshangrila; rooms from US$190 3. The nightlife is up to queue at 8am, for an additional $15 ($242)). It’s certainly a convenient spot, Shwedagon Paya picking up Yadanar Travel (#01-25A Peninsula Plaza, right by the Central Railway Station, the 111 North Bridge Rd., 6344-9368) will do it Expats have long bemoaned the lack of two millennia-old Sule Pagoda and the for you. decent drinking options in Yangon. Since Taking up the corner of a classy old building Bogyoke Aung San Market, and only a And there are more airlines operating being taken over by new management just down from the Strand Hotel, Union short walk to the city’s colonial highlights. the route than ever: we flew with Tigerair late last year, Mojo (135 Innya Rd., Bahan wouldn’t be at all out of place in London Their buffet breakfast is pretty decent too, (www.tigerair.com) for $550 return over Township; www.facebook.com/mojoinnya) or New York (and, for better or worse, you though we also snuck round the corner to the October long weekend, but you can also has become the go-to spot for NGO staff, can’t say that about many places in Yangon). another new arrival, the Dutch-run Bar get there direct on Jetstar, SilkAir, SIA and English teachers and everyone else. It’s Designed by leading local architect team Boon (380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd., www.

Myanmar Airways. pretty uninspiring, but if you’re looking SPINE, it opened in early 2013 and draws barboon.nl), whose uninspiring surrounds for a crowd and can’t find it elsewhere, a big crowd on Fridays and Saturdays (the at the front of a Parkson mall belie what chances are they’re all at this tiny two-storey 2. Getting a good room house band is great). House drink specials is currently the best coffee you’ll find in bar/club. like the Bloody Pig (tomato, spices and Yangon. As well as all the standards, isn’t as hard as you’ve There is, though, now a considerably homemade, bacon-infused vodka) go for they offer bags of single-estate been told more upmarket option in Union Bar and US$6.50 ($8.30), and the food menu is a Myanmar arabica for take-away Grill (42 Strand Rd., Bohtataung; +95 (0) solid mix of burgers, pasta and pizza, and Before you visit, you’ll for US$7.50 ($9.60).

94 2010-1854; www.unionyangon.com), mains like fish in Myanmar beer batter hear that there’s a dearth A short walk north, 32the brainchild of UK-transplant Nico Eliot.

(US$12 ($15)). of decent accommodation room newbie The Loft Hotel in Yangon, and that the (33 Yaw Min Gyi St., Dagon influx of overseas investors Township; +95 1 37-2299; means what there is is often www.theloftyangon.com) is the full. It’s true that the big hotel first (though doubtless not the projects are some way from The Loft Hotel last) industrial-chic accommodation A world away from the bustle of downtown Yangon, the paddy fields completion: Hilton and Novotel will option to open here. Rooms (from of Dalla are only 15 minutes on the ferry. Boats leave from the jetty likely not open until next year; Pan US$180 ($220)) in what was once a opposite The Strand (US$4 return, ($5)) and it’s easy to find a Pacific is due in 2016; and plans are afoot nondescript’ 60s warehouse are tastefully rickshaw or motorcycle driver (US$5 for one hour, ($6.25)) on the to eventually reopen a 40-room annex at done and on-site restaurant Sasazu opens other side to take you around the local market, a small monastery, colonial stalwart The Strand. But we had no later this month. some fishing communities and a “bamboo village,” home to people problem getting rooms in the city on less relocated after 2008’s Cyclone Nargis.

There are also an increasing number of

1. It’s never been easier

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I‑S MAGAZINE FRIDAY, november 7, 2014

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Eliot is also behind new arrivals Gekko (535 Merchant St., Kyautoda Township; +95 (0) 138-6986; www.gekkoyangon. com)–a hip, HK’s-Yardbird-inspired yakitori grill, whiskey/sake bar and cocktail lounge (the drinks list comes courtesy of Singapore’s 28 Hong Kong Street) that opened in the 1906-built Sofaer building earlier this year–and the four-monthold Parami Pizza (11/8 Malikha Rd. and Parami Rd., +95 (0) 166-7449; http:// paramipizza.com) out near Inya Lake.

Essentials CURRENCY The exchange rate is currently 800 kyat to 1 SGD. Contrary to what many guidebooks tell you, almost no one insists on US dollar payments anymore (finding pristine notes, which are all they’ll accept, is a pain anyway). Just take kyat and you’ll be fine. 1000 kyat is roughly US$1 anyway so it’s not hard to do the math.

VISA

4. A good guide makes all the difference Make no mistake: much of Yangon is filthy and falling to ruin. But a sprinkling of civic pride has recently seen both the central People’s Park renovated (it’s a great spot for views of what is far and away the number one tourist draw in Yangon, the stunning Shwedagon Paya), and the launch of a blue plaque initiative to commemorate some 200 significant buildings across the city (the first being Downtown Yangon colonial-era City Hall and the former Myoma school). It’s just a shame so many untouched by the gold rush.

Township; +95 (0) 9 2 5006-4694; www. of them are in such a sorry state, Whatever you do, don’t make the ts1yangon.com), a pop-up gallery, retail with little to illuminate their mistake of thinking a cab is the space (called Myanmar Made) and importance. We climbed to answer. Drivers are unfailingly upcoming restaurant down by the river in the roof of a spectacular, now honest and rates are incredibly an old transit shed. (Naturally, it’s already close-to-collapse building cheap (the 45-minute/one hour been featured in Monocle.) Opened in April right beside City Hall, but of this year, by young Burmese entrepreneur trip to or from the airport is couldn’t work out what it Ivan Pun, it’s an evocative space, right by the just 9,000 kyat $11.60), but had once been. still-fully-functioning docks. It also happens unless it’s late at night there’s a For that reason you’re best to be beside an outdoor “beer station” depressingly high chance you’ll get putting yourself in more capable visited by Anthony Bourdain stuck in traffic for a very hands. We heard very good things Gekko in his Parts Unknown show– long time. about both Free Yangon Walks (+95 “Myanmar is quite which we’ll admit is the real (0) 92 5053-2068; www.freeyangonwalks. literally popping up reason we stumbled across it. com), who meet every day at 4pm in the on the global radar, Exhibitions are overseen car park opposite City Hall for Englishcreating a desire

by Nathalie Johnston (who speaking walking tours; and the free For a country that’s late-night cycle tours (15,000 kyats for here to engage with blogs about the scene at http:// been repressed for so long, myanmartevolution.com), with bike rental) departing from Bike World Burmese art is often strikingly the world beyond— the most recent “The Mirror,” (10F Khapaung Rd.; +951 527-109; www. contemporary. And these and vice versa.” championing four local artists cyclingmyanmar.com) at 10pm every days there are more and more reflecting on previously Friday. And hopping on the Circle Line Ivan Pun – founder of art outlets for artists’ talent. untouchable socio-political gallery TS1 train from the Central Railway Station for The most interesting new issues. On-site restaurant–and all or part of its three hour loop around arrival is TS1 (between bar by night–Port Autonomy, the city (200 kyat/$0.25) is perhaps the Lanthit and Kaing Dan jetties, Seik Kan serving (what else?) modern takes on very best way to see parts of Yangon yet Burmese classics, and with a local teahouse concept in the daytime, is set to open before the end of the year.

Across town (not far from Parami Pizza), is the year-old Witness Yangon (3/F, Pyan Hlwar Bldg., 4A Parami Rd., +95 (0) 9 3173-6154; www.witnessyangon. com), a space for exhibiting and training photographers and filmmakers. It’s an initiative of non-profit group Myanmar Deitta and already earning a reputation for the kind of shows that would have been unthinkable here even just a few years ago. Last month saw screenings of a documentary on Thailand’s slave fishermen and 2008’s Burma VJ: Reporting from a Closed Country; while the &Proud photo show earlier this year focused on Vietnam and Myanmar’s LGBT communities.

5. The artists are out in the open

Don’t be confused by the talk of visa on arrival—that’s only for business visas, provided you have a letter of invitation. Just get a tourist visa from the embassy before you go—see opposite for details.

WHEN TO GO November to January sees the year’s coolest, least-humid weather.

INFORMATION Yangon’s changing pretty quickly.

The latest edition of Lonely Planet (July 2014) is pretty accurate for now, and a new English-language listings mag launched in August (www. facebook.com/MYyangonmagazine), but we found freelance journalist Jessica Mudditt’s site (http:// jessicamudditt.com) the best source of up to date info.

Q&A Ben Bansal Co-author of the forthcoming (2015) book Yangon Architectural Guide, Bansal and his team are documenting their research into some of the city’s hidden gems at http://yangonarchitecture. tumblr.com.

Do you worry about the future of Yangon’s older buildings?

We’re optimistic that most of the more iconic buildings will survive with the help of investors and/or the government, although their use will likely be profit-oriented. Much of the equally important historical substance of downtown Yangon is at danger of being gradually replaced though, as building owners and tenants prefer modern buildings over costly renovations of the dilapidated current state.

What are some of your favorite lesser-known buildings?

I’d recommend Pitaka Taik Library, the Armenian Church and the University of Medicine—you can see pictures and read more about each of them on our Tumblr.

Sunset by the river

FRIDAY, november 7, 2014 I‑S MAGAZINE

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