#the
brand analysis
Primetex Brands Departments at Primetex Tj&Li Introduction The story. The vision. The team Product Range & Pricing Target Consumer Retail Sales and promotion Brand analysis Brand Language
The brand analysis
Primetex Brands Primetex Brands was established in a partnership of Anchal Jain and Ankur Prakash on 27th February 2007. It is a private limited, non government organization. NUN, was the first brainchild of Primetex Brands. This aspiring ‘ready-to-wear’ brand was initiated with a vision of targeting young girls. The brand targeted tier III cities, small town girls and their lifestyle. NUN positioned its stores in five different cities in the country including Ahmedabad , Jodhpur, Raipur, Udaipur and Lucknow. In 2008, the company made a big appearance by advertising through various media channels like magazines, newspapers, billboards, hoardings and local ads. In the year 2012, the company planned to come up with a new look, changing the vision of the brand from three tier to metro cities, in the market,
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
from small town to big city girls , from usual to trendy. The brand targeted the modern day woman aged between 18 and25 years. In the year 2014, Primetex Brands came up with their second initiative , Tj&Li. A brand that is quite different from NUN , in terms of products , brand language , clientele and in marketing strategies. It was set up in Lado Sarai, and shares space with NUN. The pattern master, tailors and other embroiders who work for NUN, now started working for Tj&Li as well. Primetex Brands stepped into luxury market for the first time with Tj&Li. Though Tj&Li initially kept away from aggressive marketing to make its presence known, it has bigger plans in the future to steadily enter the luxury market and also aspires to expand into exports later.
Nun
Design Department
Primetex Brands
Tj&Li
Sampling Conceptualization Research
Sales
Retail Outlet Boutique Consignment Distributors
Supply Chain
Adminstration
Finance & Accounting
Production
Human resource Business development
Finance Accounts Costing
Media & Communication Visual communication Advertising Graphic design
The different departments at Primetex Brands.
Material Management Warehouse Logistics
Stock allocating Sourcing Post production checking
The brand analysis
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Brand Introduction - Tj&Li
Category : Ready to wear (pre’t) ; luxury segment. Established in : April 2014 Based at : Delhi Clientele : Women ( 26 - 50 years ); upper middle income group. Brand usp : Handcrafted; Slow fashion, Minimalistic, sustainable Available in: Ahmedabad, Jaipur, Mumbai, Hyderabad, Delhi, Goa. Price points: Rs.2000/- - Rs. 25,000/website: http://www.tjandli.com/ Social media : https://www.facebook.com/tjlicollective?fref=ts
The brand analysis
A little bit of sparkle, A hint of red, A moment of nostalgia and Jumbled pieces of thread. A mile of travel, A vast sky, A speck of sand and A musical sigh.
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Source : TJ&Li archive
Tj&Li is a thought seeded by a wanderer and nurtured by a settler. It is a union of love, nostalgia, storytelling and naivety. It derives its inspiration from the humble chain stitch, decaying surroundings and living spaces. Tj&Li individuals are expressive, modest and sensual
in their complex simplicity. They are mysterious and carries along stories of love, passion and travel. The look is an eclectic mix of day and night, old and new, fluid and structural. It is eccentric and blending; at the same time. It combines individual beauty and mundane practicality.
The brand analysis
The story Tj&Li is an initiative started by Primetex Brands Pvt.Ltd in April 2014. Primetex Brands Private Limited is a Private Company incorporated on 27 February 2007. It is classified as an Indian Non-Government Company. Its authorized share capital is Rs. 65,000,000 and its paid up capital is Rs. 47,262,472.The directors of Primetex Brands Private Limited are Anchal Jain and Ankur Prakash. The concept of Tj & Li is a brain child of Head Designer Linda Lee and Brand Manager Tanvi Jain who gave a physical form to their dream. They were inspired by the confident, modern Indian woman who is globally aware and influenced but intrinsically proud in her culture and values. The idea is to provide her an unique clothing experience in which she will thrive; where she would be in tune with contemporary style and yet stand out as independent, confidant and modern woman.
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Tj&Li was set up in Lado Sarai ,Delhi with a small team of artisans and tailors. Tj & Li derives their products from craftsmen and weavers from different parts of India. The main aim is to work with micro, small and medium enterprises to help generate income to sustain crafts by design intervention, not only in products but in system management as well. It is a small initiative towards trying to save the roots by making it global .It is a full-service Garment business service provider offering an extensive range of services to garment businesses worldwide. It is a one-stop provider of a complete array of garment solutions, including design, development, sourcing, merchandising, quality assurance, shipping , logistics and Buying House Activity. This is the first time Primetex is stepping into the luxury market with a brand of their own.
Ari embroidery at Tj&Li sampling department . Source : TJ&Li archive
The brand analysis
Tj&Li team The hands and hearts behind the clothes
CREATIVE DEPARTMENT
SALES AND OPERATION
ACCOUNTS
Kanistha Junega ( Business developer)
Kalakar (Cashier )
Deepti Saroha (Commercial merchandiser)
Tarun ( Accountant)
PRODUCTION
WAREHOUSE
Mahesh Sharma (Production Head)
N.A . Shiddiqui (Head )
Linda Lee (Creative Head ) Rituparna Sarkar ( Creative Assistant ) Bhishram (Pattern master) Shantaram ( Pattern cutter) Suraj (Tailor) Sheer Singh (Tailor) Pappu (Tailor) Shiv Kumar (Tailor) Mohammed Shawaz Alam (Embroider) Mohammed Akhil (Embroider) Chanda (Finishing)
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Sudhir Sharma (Fabric Incharge) Ayush Rawat (Merchandiser) Raju (Assitant Merchandiser)
Stitching department at Tj&Li studio
Embroidery department at Tj&Li studio
Pattern making department at Tj&Li studio
Stitching department at Tj&Li studio
Creative department at Tj&Li studio
The brand analysis
Product Range & Pricing Clothing for work, play and love. Tj&Li caters to the luxury women’s wear segment. . It is a one-stop provider of a complete array of garment solutions. The product category mainly consists of clothing and accessories. One can find , Tunics , Dresses, Tops, Shirts, Skirts, Bottoms, Jackets, Coveralls, Stoles, Bags ,Bangles, Earnings and hair accessories etc The brand offers an exclusive range of products crafted in exquisite and luxurious natural fabrics The price range offered is as follows: Shirts: Rs.3000-Rs.11,000; Bottoms: Rs. 3500- Rs.12,000; Tunics : Rs.2500-Rs.20,000 ; Long Dresses : Rs.4500- Rs.25,000 ; Short Dresses: Rs.3800- Rs.15,000; Stoles- Rs.1500- Rs.5000; Jackets- Rs. 7000- Rs. 25,000 Bags- Rs.8000 onwards. The pricing is usually done based on Cost based pricing at first and then market-oriented pricing. In cost based pricing the firms takes into account the cost of production and distribution, they then decide on a mark up which they would like for profit to come to their final pricing decision. Market orientated pricing is setting a price based upon analysis and research compiled from the target market. Since its a relatively new brand in the market place, this is crucially important to establish and sustain itself in the market.
Source : Tj&Li archive (all )
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Festive collection 2014.. Source : TJ&Li archive
The brand analysis
Target Consumer The brand is positioned as a premium luxury offering, with each piece methodically crafted with an eye on impeccable finishing and detailing. The brand targets women in the age group of 25-50 years, with conscious and affluent lifestyles and tastes.
Tj&Li display at Melange, Mumbai. Source : TJ&Li archive
Retail At present the brand sells its products mainly in collaboration with the following multi brand stores and boutiques which seem to attract the desirable target customer, as it stocks similar brands available in the market : - Artisans Cottage, Ahmedabad - Dora, Jaipur - Kalie, Jaipur - Melange, Mumbai - The Project, Hyderabad - Second floor, Delhi Tj&Li also promotes direct sales from the studio via phone, e-mail, its Facebook page and ap-pointments. The future plan is to host trunk shows and have a larger online presence with their new website which is under construction. Tj&Li display at Melange, Mumbai. Source : TJ&Li archive
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Sales and promotion The brand offers promotional sales once the season is over or towards the end of a season and the products become stock for the next season. Also when the multibrand stores host the season’s sale, Tj&Li participates. The sale is usually offered when the stores have their season’s or some other sale periods. Along with that sometimes there are special discounts on specific products that has outrun its season and turned into stock. The promotion is mostly through the store promotions and through online media. The brand is purposely promoting itself in a rather subdued way. Hence the brand chooses to move away from aggressive marketing strategies. Promotional poster . Source : TJ&Li archive
Promotional poster . Source : TJ&Li archive
Promotional poster . Source : TJ&Li archive
The brand analysis
Brand analysis
Slow fashion.Handcrafted Handmade .Exquisite .Contemporary .Functional. Conscious .
Minimalistic. Soft.Nostalgia. Traveller Wanderer.
Settler. Storytelling .Love
Sensual
. Blending.
.Expressive.
Modest
Individual Beauty
Mundane practicality. Structural .Fluid.Old New
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Source : TJ&Li archive
georgette = sheer
else s s ta s edg a inish f
subdued tones contrastting accent
tweed
tie & dye structured classic silhouettes
s pleat
s fect
om
monochromatic
use of embroidery on tie&dye tent shape
s
me
volu
d dere
ari broi em
crisp
japanese influence
ef bre
eat = pl
functional details
edge finsihing contrast colour
use of side pockets
ket n a bl titch s
midtones
solids khadi silk
define the edges
wideeeves sl
volume increasing panels
cotton
gat
her
s
tassels + kantha + patchwork
Tj&Li collections 2014. Source : TJ&Li archive
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
n tone tone oidery embro
red accents
sheer tent shape
edge accents placement embroidered
mirror work embellishments
blanket stitch edge finishing bais cut
t
ed a r e h gataist w
japanese tie up at shoulders contrasting emb
free flowing bottom
th lentgtes l l u f houe sil
contrast piping
crushed effect
m wo irro rk r
voluminous silhouettes
free flowing geometric silhouette
hand embroidery festive collection
gathers
loose fit silk
cotton silk
g dip dyein
ss croer ov
fluid subdued colours
tie up sleeves all over running stitch
thin shoulder straps
tie
els
s
tas
Tj&Li collections 2014. Source : TJ&Li archive
up
crinkle
kantha stitch at edge + hem
japanese flowers
small delicate motifs
androgynous accessories gathers
cotton silk
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
The brand
Brand Language
Tj&Li Autumn Winter collection 2014. Source : TJ&Li archive
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Techniques The look and the feel of Tj&Li is prominently handcrafted. Inspiration is drawn largely from the traditional arts, crafts and cultures. The brand uses a lot of detailing and embellishment to add value and personality to its products. In the winter collections, darker fabrics are treated with techniques like tie & dye and often embellishment with threadwork with contrasting colours. Mirrorwork is also incorporated with the festive collections to bring about shimmer and shine. Tassels is another design element that has remained constant in most of the collections so far. Also edge finishing details is something that seem to define the brand. Most of the time, either blanket stitches or running stitches embellish the edges and gives a definition to an otherwise free floating silhouette. Ari embroidery is also used as a tone on tone effect on the garments. Other value addition techniques involves dip dyeing, wrinkle , patchwork ( in moderation) and softener washing. Prints are rarely seen in the collections of Tj&Li.
Mood Tj&Li is a union of love, nostalgia, storytelling and naivety. It derives its inspiration from the humble chain stitch, decaying surroundings and living spaces. Tj&Li individuals are expressive, modest and sensual in their complex simplicity. They are mysterious and carries along stories of love, passion and travel. Traditional arts , crafts and cultures largely inspire the collection and the mood of the brand. The look is an eclectic mix of day and night, old and new, fluid and structural. It is eccentric and blending; at the same time. It combines individual beauty and mundane practicality.
Colour The colours used are mostly subdued tones of neutral shades. One can find a lot of solids in line, which gives a more mature and sophisticated look to the brand. The prevelant colours are shades and tints of grey, black, white and blue. Red is mostly used as an accent. Sometimes to highlight the edges or to bring out some details like in embroideries. Most of the winter collections has relatively darker colours which goes lighter with advent of summer. The overall feel is more monochromatic in nature.
Form The products are a good example of convergence of practicality and aesthetical appeal. The silhouettes are airy and voluminous without being too heavy. One can relate prominent Japanese forms in the silhouettes. The geometry goes softer with the materials and tent shapes and a flowy feel is noticed in most of the garments. A lot of gathers is also present, mostly to define the waist. The silhouettes are sensual and modest at the same time, having functional details. The clever cuts are designed to flatter the body and the volume does a great job in taking the attention away from places one might wish to hide. Hence the modern and unconventional forms are great for most of the body types. The motifs vary from being floral to intricate to a more elemental geometric to organic in nature.
Fabrics The fabrics used varies from summer season to winter due to obvious reasons of comfort and practicality. In winters a lot of silks, tweeds, cottonsilk and heavier georgettes are used, whereas in summer mostly softer cottons and its blends are in use. The brand has plans to shift to a more organic and handwoven fabrics in future, which would be more convincing to the image it wants to portray.
Ideology Tj&li is inspired by the confident, modern Indian woman who is globally aware and influenced but intrinsically proud in her culture and values. The idea is to provide her with an unique clothing experience in which she will thrive. Where she would be in tune with the style and yet stand out as an independent, confident and modern woman. Tj & Li derives there product from craftsmen and weavers from different parts of India. The main aim is to work with micro, small and medium enterprises to help generate income to sustain crafts by design intervention, not only in products but in system management as well. It is a small initiative towards trying to save the roots by making it global. Tj&Li believes in ethical fashion and tries to promote the cause of slow fashion.
#the
client study
Relevance Questionnaire Analysis Identifying the client Client board
Consumer research
Consumer study To delve deeper into understanding the target market , a few studies were conducted which includes survey via meeting in person , through phone calls and also through observation and keeping a track of probable client profiles in social networking sites. The questionnaire was designed to understand the lifestyle, buying habits , preferences and asiprations of the people in relation to their economic class.
Psychographics
Demographics
(research focuses on interests,activities, and opinions )
Influences
Consciousness Belief System Consumption Luxury trends
Cultural peferences Weather parameters Store availaibility
Buying behaviour
Buying preferences Frequency Colours Silhouettes Fabrics Styles
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Preferences Purchasing power
Customer Profile Geographical location Social Status Age Financial status
Influences
Influences
Influences
Influences
Influences
Personality, Values, Attitudes, Interests, Lifestyles Tastes
( research based on datas and facts)
Format of survey 1. What is your profession ? 2. How old are you ? 3. Which city do you live in ? 4. How would you spend your free time ? MCQ- Sports/ Physical activities Reading / Writing / Creative pursuits Social gatherings On the internet Music/ Television/Films Other 5. How often do you travel ? MCQ- weekly Monthly Quarter yearly Half yearly Yearly
10. Where would you usually shop ? MCQ- Boutiques High street Exhibitions Shopping mall Online 11. How much would you spend in a month on shopping ? 12. What influences your personal style ? Mcq- Hollywood Bollywood Musicians Socialites Fashion shows Other- space 13. Do you have any colour preference , If so please elaborate.
7. How would you describe your personal style ?
14. What is more important to you while making a purchase ? MCQ- Quality Colour Style Comfort Price
8. Name your 3 favourite fashion icons.
15. Name 3 of your brands from which you usually shop.
9. How often do you shop ? MCQ- Weekly Monthly Quarter yearly Half yearly Yearly
16. Name 3 brands that you would like to have in your closet .
6. Name of 3 your favourite holiday destinations.
Consumer research
Analysis
36-45 46 & above
Profession
Creative Marketing/ Human Resource Government services Home maker IT services
Hollywood
Infuences on buying
20-25 26-35
Bollywood
Colour preferences
Age group
Based on findings from survey conducted : Primary research
Pastel/ Earthy
Sports/ Physical activities Social gatherings The internet Tv/ Movies
Quarter yearly Half yearly Yearly
The survey results
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Shopping desitination
Travelling frequency
Weekly Monthly
Runaways Socialities
Contrast Neon/ bright Colours Monochrome
Colour
Buying prefernces
Interests
Creative pursuits
Musicians
Quality Price Style Comfort
Boutiques High street Exhibitions Online shopping Shopping malls
Preferences Earthy pastels Monochromatic Ease of wear Layering / Volume Minute details Androgynous
Needs Space independence Attention to details Sophistication Originality Simplicity Edge Responsible
Mapping the client
Desires Customization More leisure time Fuss free Balance Organized/ focussed Responsibilty
Buying habits Confidant. Experimental Aware Ethical fashion Conscious
Consumer research
Client profile You are not your age Nor the size of the clothes you wear, You are not a weight, Or the colour of your hair. You are not your name, Or the dimple in your cheeks, You are all the books you read, All the words you speak, You are the croaky morning voice, And the smiles you try to hide, You’re the sweetness in your laughter, And every tear you have cried, You’re the songs you sing so loudly. When you know you are all alone, You ‘re the places that you have been to, And the one that you call home, You are the things you believe in, And the people that you love, You’re the photos in your bedroom, And the future you dream of, You’re made of so much beauty, But it seems that you forgot, When you decided that you were defined, By all the things you are not. - Not , Erin Hanson.
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
‘‘you werent made for the shallow waters , your heart is an ocean ‘‘
“All of us need to be in touch with a mysterious, tantalizing source of inspiration that teases our sense of wonder and goads us on to life’s next adventure.” -Rob Brezsny
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
#re-designing communication material
Mapping the brand Redesigning logo Suggestive directions - Tags & washcare labels - Bags - Stationary - Gift packages
Re-designing communication material
Mapping the brand
What the brand delivers? Independent Individualistic Differentiated Contemporary
What are the ideas that both customer and the brand believe? (Shared values) Moving back to Simplicity Love for handmade Sustainable
Nostalgia. Individuality. Handcrafted
Directions
What the brand will never compromise on? Quality Style Elegance
Tj&li
Sustainable Simple Organic
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
What using the brand tells others about the customer? (Aspirational image) Wayward Unpredictable Willingly lost Confident How the brand delivers? Perseverance Creativity Simplicity
What is the larger cause the brand aspire to serve? Inspire people to be themselves Sustain crafts by design intervention Encourage slow fashion
Colour usage: Use of 2 or 3 colours : Simplifying the colour palette can enhance the design direction and also fit in budgetary constraints. Simplified colour palette can control the look, feel, dimension, legibility, readability, direction, harmony, discord and kinetic energy of a mark. In addition, its colour association and learned behavioural effects and or/ psychological attributes enhance communication by amplifying the tone, texture, form silhouette and ultimately combine to facilite the objectives. Suggestive colours: -Red - To indicate Adventure, Energy, Excitement, Love, Passion, Strength and Vigour -Black- Black is technically, the absence of all colour. It’s a powerful and conjures authority, boldness, elegance and tradition. Black can be used its boldness, simplicity and sophistication. -White- White is the universal colour of peace and purity. It can often be found in logos as reversed text or negative space. Cleanliness, Innocence, Peace, Purity, Refined, Sterile, Simplicity, Surrender and Truthfulness.
Material Usage : The materials to be used for brand merchandise should idealy have a organic touch and feel to it, to connect better to the visual language of the brand and to give an image of it being handcrafted personalized and customized. The idea is to make the brand seem individualistic yet inclusive. The choice of materials for the merchandise should be sustainable, its always a good idea if the brand merchandise can be re-used and carried by the customer later on as well, as it will promote the brand even more and also the customer will start to build a connect with the product and inevitabily the brand. Chosing the right medium for the merchandise is very important, which includes deciding on the weight, colour, texture, coated or uncoated. It is better to choose an uncoated paper / medium that has pronounced grain or texture to soak into it thus muting the colour and creating in softer appearence, and hence nostalgia can be evoked. Unique finishing techniques such as die cutting, embossing or adding foils or dulling varnishes can enhance the look and feel of the merchandise and give it a stronger character.
Re-designing communication material
Re designing the logo
Earlier logo
https://www.facebook.com/tjlicollective/photos/pb.515314265190 416207520000.1439488110./689893011065873/?type=3&theate Date: 17th september 2014. Screen shot.
Earlier logo as used in Tj&Li facebook page
Other sel;ected options
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
https://www.facebook.com/tjlicollective/photos/pb.515314265190 416207520000.1439488110./689893011065873/?type=3&theate Date: 17th may 2014. Screen shot.
Selected 1 : Used in Tj&Li facebook page
TJ & LI WANDERER.SETTLER
To be used as a logo in brand merchandise
TJ & LI
TJ & LI
WANDERER.SETTLER
WANDERER.SETTLER
Source : https://www.facebook.com/tjlicollective/photos/pb.51531426519041 6.2207520000.1439488096./787451527976687/?type=3&theater . Date : 14th april, 2015 ; screen shot.
Selected 2 : Used in Tj&Li facebook page
Tj & Li WANDERER.SETTLER
To be used as a logo in brand merchandise
Tj & Li WANDERER.SETTLER
https://www.facebook.com/tjlicollective/photos/pb.515314265190416.220752 0000.1439488093./812392332149273/?type=3&theater . Date : 15th June . Screen shot
Selected 3 : Used in Tj&Li facebook page
Tj & Li
wanderer.settler
Tj & Li
wanderer.settler
Tj & Li
wanderer.settler
To be used as a logo in brand merchandise
Re-designing communication material
Proposed direction for tags & washcare labels
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09 Image Sources : 01.www.motherearthnews.com 02.petersenpotterycompany.com 03. fteresafritschi.wordpress.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/ 05. www.poetichome.com 06. www.econesting.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org 08 www.poetichome.com 09. breakingmuscle.comwordpress.com
Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
Proposed direction for envelopes
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Image Sources : 01.www.hairbrained.me 02. www.chymfm.com 03. fineartamerica.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/ 05. www.touchingstone.com 06. autopsyrotica-art.deviantart.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org
Re-designing communication material
Proposed direction for bags
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Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project
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03. fteresafritschi.wordpress.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/ 05. www.gwynmichael.com
09 06. www.econesting.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org 08. www.humblebunny.com
Proposed direction for gift packages
01 Image source: 01. www.humblebunny.com 02. www.apartmenttherapy.com
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Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project