Trends & design directions

Page 1

Trends .Design

Directions


“Any fool can do something cool and look cool, but it takes skill to make something uncool cool again.� -Criss Jami, Killosophy


#7.

The trends The trends Spring Summer 2015

International runaway Indian runaway The trends of the international and Indian runaway for Spring Summer 2015 International Emerging lifestyle runaway trends sprng summer 2015, was studied with depth to understand what one could be expecting in the coming season. The IWndian runaway sources The are trends mostly of thethe internet and newspapers. international and IndianBased runaway for Emerging lifestyle trends on the findings, analysis waswas made of the repeating sprng summer 2015, studied with depth toand understand frequently noticed trend.beThe same thing doneseason. for what one could expecting in thewas coming The identifying the lifestyle trends, I feel turned out to Based sources are mostly thewhich internet and newspapers. be moreon important in finding a conceptual direction my the findings, analysis was made of the for repeating and project. frequently The sources for trend spotting were-thing Promostyl, noticed trend. The same was done for View, Nellyrodi and the WGSN. identifying lifestyle trends, which I feel turned out to be more important in finding a conceptual direction for my project. The sources for trend spotting were- Promostyl, View, Nellyrodi and WGSN.


The trends

International runaway trends Spring summer 2015 high

s

line

eck er n

Sailor stripes assymetric

mas

Androgynous tailoring

softer fabrics

culi

stuctured

ne

fall

chunky buttons

Lanvin

Chloe’

Marc Jacobs

Anthony Vaccarello

Maison Martin Margiela

y eas

Sonia Rykiel

g

goin

Nautical larger

joyous

dots

patchwork

vintage fabrics

volume

layering

oriental influence Dries Van Norten

Maison Martin Margiela

Prada

Marc jacobs

Junya wantabe

black & white

3d printed

lgia

Nosta

Dolce & Gabbana

Source: http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#ohvlge3IaxqUksCq.99

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

polka


Androgynous tailoring

Many years have passed since women first conquered the male wardrobe, so this season the designers were keen to return to the codes of masculine suits, bringing a touch of sexy, adrogynous style to contrast the more feminine looks that graced the runway. The trend reveals itself in the asymmetric cuts seen at Anthony Vaccarello, the strong streetwear edge at Sonia Rykiel and the against-the-grain, tennis striped fabric at Maison Martin Margiela. From left to right: Anthony Vaccarello, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel A trend also seen at Chanel, Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier

Nautical

Fashion Week took to the coast for next season, as a sea breeze swept over the runways in Milan, New York and Paris. From the oversized coat at Lanvin, a yachting-inspired dress at Chloé and Marc Jacob’s nod to the sailor’s uniform, the designers set sail in search of new horizons for Spring/Summer 2015. From left to right: Lanvin, Chloé, Marc Jacobs A trend also seen at: Louis Vuitton, Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus

Polka Dots

A simple print which has retained its impact over the years, the polka dot burst joyously onto the runway this Fashion Week. Worn on everything from a slightly faded strapless mini at Marc by Marc to a conceptual 3D design at Junya Watanabe, or dotted regularly across a Dolce & Gabbanna dress, the polka dot’s only condition is to be worn exclusively in black and white. From left to right: Marc by Marc Jacobs, Junya Watanabe, Dolce & Gabbana A trend also seen at Moschino, Chanel

Vintage fabrics

Mixing, contrasting and stitching together of fabrics in principal seemed surprising, but designers show their flair for the eclectic for Spring/Summer 2015, bringing together vintage fabrics, unexpected combinations of prints and textures. The proof is the incredible fabrics at Dries Van Noten, the graphic foliage and florals at Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada’s eastern evocations. From left to right: Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada A trend also seen at Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney Vintage fabrics

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The trends

International runaway trends Spring summer 2015 black & white

studs, zips, matte and gloss finishes.

oversized

japanese flowers

sed expo

monochrome

tric geomeks c blo

oriental influence

ments

tied at the waist

Kimono

compart Givenchy

Anthony Vaccarrello

s

seam

Balmain

Celine’

Gucci

Marni

powder pink Marrakech bohemian

kaleidoscope motifs

1970s

flowy

nd ce a

la

t

plea

tonal

military

leg o mutton sleeves

Hippy Delux

use of multiple pockets masculine

monotone

Chanel Ralph Lauren Marc Jacobs Alberta Ferretti Etro ChloĂŠ Source: http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479#ohvlge3IaxqUksCq.99

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

Khaki


The Kimono

With long silhouettes tied at the waist, the Kimono proved to be an inspiration for a number of fashion houses this season. From Marni's cream outfit accentuated with an oversized black belt, to the delicate floral design inspired by a Hokusai drawing at Gucci and Céline's sleek black silhouette with exposed seams and a deep blue belt mirroring the look of a martial arts champion. From left to right: Céline, Gucci, Marni A trend also seen at: Alexander McQueen, The Row, Isabel Marant

Monochrome

An ultra-refined palette for maximum optical effects was the choice of Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, Anthony Vaccarello and Olivier Rousteing at Balmain, for a deceptively minimalist yet effective look, which shows its complexity in the combinations of materials, studs, zips, matte and gloss finishes. From left to right: Givenchy, Anthony Vaccarello, Balmain A trend also seen at Isabel Marant, Chanel, Giambattista Valli

Hippy Delux

Stepping straight out of 1970s Marrakech, these long, light and flowing dresses will billow in the breeze this summer as you take on the elements in style. This season, the luxury bohemian trend, inspired by Talitha Getty’s iconic hippie-chic look, took to the runway in powder pink silhouettes for Alberta Ferretti, kaleidoscope motifs at Etro while Claire Waight Keller toyed with lace and pleat effects at Chloé. From left to right: Alberta Ferretti, Etro, Chloé A trend also seen at: Emilio Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, Giambattista Valli

Khaki

Since it first hit the runway over 40 years ago, khaki has become a fashion classic, returning this season with a bang. Appearing in varying styles for a number of fashion houses, we saw suede khaki pieces at Chanel’s feminist protest, while Marc Jacobs offered sexy, military silhouettes and Ralph Lauren opted for Out of Africa, Safaristyle glamour. From left to right: Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren A trend also seen at: Gucci, Michael Kors, Sonia Rykiel

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The trends

reinevting the polo shirt

Indian runaway trends Spring summer 2015

ed oversizts e k poc DhruvKapoor

with plaoypinogrtions pr

ying marr ar coll sari with

lightweight fabrics Shraddha

Asmita Marwa

eatthy

s

colour

wide collars

Vaishali

t

r cu

laze

techno

oversized sleeves modern luxe androgynous s print blockaccents red

Ka sha Urvashi Joneja Huemn Source: http://www.vogue.in/content/lakme-fashion-week-summer-resort-2015

Square loop

The summer collar The collar has come back with a bang this summer, from being used with saris to shirts to dresses. Fabrics also greatly varied from using block printed cottons to khadi to silk to lazer cuts to more translucent lightweights. Designers like Ka

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

sha , Shraddha and Vaishali gave the collar a new look and feel by marrying it with a more handcrafted look, whereas designers like Urvanshi Jonega , Huemn, Square loop , Dhruv Kapoor have taken a more modern approach.


mo

tic

oma

hr noc

ziz zag patterns

richer colours used

details

corset subtle

flow

e

nc

ga ele

contrast Vaishali

Krishna Mehta

Krishna Mehta

Shift

reinvcenting moghul silhouttes

pattern weaving ipe

str

Mayank

A line

er bordiations r a v

Gamcha

tent

o

orp

c s in

ed rat

Contrast colours Not like you

Mayank

Anavila

Source: http://www.vogue.in/content/lakme-fashion-week-summer-resort-2015

Going back to handloom Several designers like Mayank, Not like you, Anavila, Krishna Mehta , Shift, Vaishali have all used handwoven fabrics. Taking a more ethical apparoach to fashion seems to be the next big buzz word. Most of these fabrics and woven specifically according to a certain pattern as and where it would fall on

the body. The ‘gamcha’ is also been reinvented for a couple of seasons now. Most of these labels seem to take a more subtle, delicate and minimalistic approach on the mood and the feel of their collection and giving the handloom fabrics a more modern life.

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The trends

Indian runaway trends Spring summer 2015 embroidered sleeves + collars

con embr trasti oider ng y

stripes in moderation

stark white

s an marrie traditionyny androg

Lounge

use of tassels

minimalistic

t Soumitra

Lovebirds

ders

or hin b

Vaishali

Manish Malhotra

sheer ankle length silhouettes

ankle length silhouettes

shimmer

Soumtitra Ragini Ahuja Krishna Mehta Source: http://www.vogue.in/content/lakme-fashion-week-summer-resort-2015

Anamika Khanna

tone on tone zari embroidery

White is definitely the new black The springsummer15 showed white in plenty. From Designers like Anamika Khanna who used tonal and zari embroidery to high contrast seen in Manish Malhotra’s collection. The silhouettes invariably show elegance and poise, with intersting details like playing around with sheer fabrics to

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

different volumes to shimmer to stripes. Designers like Soumita, Krishna Mehta and Vaishali chose to give a more traditional approach, whereas designers like Lovebirds and Ragini Ahuja treated white in a more modern and contemporary manner.


very roberto cavalli

Egg shaped silhouettes

softer drapes loun

ge

wide

sleev

es

fall

Manish Malhotra

ear

w rt

fo

com

Shruti Sanchet

LotusSutr

Anjali

al ns ton riatio va

diy drapes

contrast borders

Fl struuid c

crop tops

tures

layering Krishna Mehta

KaSha

Vaishali

darker colours

Kiran Uttam Ghosh

Source: http://www.vogue.in/content/lakme-fashion-week-summer-resort-2015

The urban nomad The Spring summer 2015 runaway, saw a comeback of the bohemian silhouettes. Designers like Krishna Mehta, Kasha, Vaishali , Kiran Uttam Ghosh, Lotus Sutra, Anjali, Manish Malhoitra, Shruti Sanchet and many more embraced the loose, flowy comfortable forms. Thin and thick edge borders and layering were noticed in the collections of Designers like

Krishna Mehta, Kasha and Vaishali. whereas designers like Kiran Uttam Ghosh, Manish Malhotra, Shruti and Lotus Sutra exhibited a more sophisticated and elegant take on bohemian fashion by using lightweight fabrics and solid colours with a but of embellishment .

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


02.

03

01

Gender fluidity Emerging trends ( lifestlye )

o1. #LIKEAGIRL is a social experiment that was aimed at changing the meaning of “like a girl” from an insult to the ultimate compliment. “Do we limit girls and tell them what they should or shouldn’t be? Do we box them into expected roles?72% of girls DO feel society limits them — especially during puberty — a time when their confidence totally plummets. We’re on a roll, and we’re not stopping! Now, we’re spreading that word that girls everywhere can be unstoppable #LIKEAGIRL when they smash limitations.” 02. 04. Top Toy Group, a part of the Toys “R” Us brand in

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

Sweden, recently released their Christmas catalog. It’s garnering attention for featuring boys and girls playing with toys stereotypically reserved for the other gender. 03. Frustrated by what she saw as an unacceptable response from school officials to her alleged sexual assault, Columbia University student Emma Sulkowicz took matters into her own hands. As part of her senior performance art project, Sulkowicz announced she would carry her mattress everywhere she went until her alleged rapist was expelled.

Sweden introduced a genderneutral pronoun. “Hen” may just refer to poultry in English, but in Sweden, it actually means a lot more. As part of Sweden’s effort to lead the gender-neutral feminist revolution, they’ve introduced the word as a gender-neutral pronoun to stand in for han (“he”) or hon (“she”). No wonder the country beats everyone when it comes to gender equality.


02

01

05

01. No Noise. Brands realised that bombarding consumers with information and constant solicitations they can generate a reflex of protection, even rejection. In an initiative that goes beyond retail, the project invites you to celebrate the power of quiet, see the beauty in function and find calm among the crowds. 05. THE SILENCE ROOM Designed by architect Alex Cochrane, this reincarnation of the Silence Room has an insulated inner-sanctum, shielded from the noise and human traffic of the store. Use the space to relax, unwind and de-stress. All we ask is that you leave your shoes, phones and 21st century distractions in the lockers provided.

04

03

06

06. THE QUIET SHOP In the Concept Store on G Join us as we pay homage to the heroes of minimalism with a carefully curated edit from the spring/summer 2013 catwalks. Plus, some of the world’s most recognisable brands have taken the admirable step of removing their logos in our collection of de-branded products - including Beats by Dre, Levi’s, Marmite and Crème de la Mer - each creating exclusive collector’s items of the future. 02.HEADSPACE “Throughout the store you will find dedicated Headspace Pods, serving simple and easyto-follow guided meditations that will take no more than 10 minutes. Whether you’re looking for a little more clarity in your life, some creative inspiration or a boost to

your self-esteem, it’s time to treat yourself to some more headspace.” 04. ‘Free No WiFi Zone’ Kit Kat Introduces ‘Free No WiFi Zone’, To Block Off Internet Connectivity To help people ‘take a break’ from online connectivity, chocolate brand Kit Kat created a ‘Free No WiFi Zone’—a bench that blocks off WiFi signals.

No noise Emerging trends ( lifestlye )

03. Sabbatical Cabinet Very simply the ‘Sabbatical Cabinet’ is a small lockable cabinet in which to put your mobile phone, laptop, mouse, keyboard, tablet etc for a set period of time. The cabinet then acts as a secure separation from those objects by disallowing any access to those objects until the timer runs out.

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


02

01

Ever more innovative, new technology are precious allies for anchoring and or/ reactivating memories. 01.Diane Meyer is interested in “the failures of photography in preserving experience and personal history.” Meyer uses embroidery on original photographs to form a pixilated representation of the underlying image. She states, “The embroidery acts as a barrier to the image, allowing the viewer to see only a pixilated version of what’s behind it.”

03

05

04

Memory multiplying technology Emerging trends ( lifestlye )

02. “Recalling 1993,” offering a raw, unfiltered listen to what was going on around New York City 20 years ago. The campaign turns pay phones into geo-located time capsules—dial (855) FOR-1993 from any pay phone in Manhattan, and you will hear a personal account of what was going down in that particular area in 1993, a pivotal year in the city’s history. The recordings offer memories of everything from the World Trade Center bombing in the Financial District to the club culture at Limelight in Chelsea to the opening of Angels in America in Midtown. 05. Scientists have recreated a beer found on a ship that sank

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

in 1842.The bottles had been 165ft (50 metres) underwater but were recovered in 2010. Now a Finnish brewery is planning to bring the replicated beer to market so punters can get a taste of the 19th century brew. 03. A DIARY A picture diary contains beautiful photos from an ordinary life. It can be a photos diary which reflecting personal memories & moments of the life. Also each photos in the page can be torn off and send it to someone from your memory. 04. Fascinated by the impossibility of immobility, the Nerhol collective asked 27 subjects to pose for a nearly imperceptible 3-minute time lapse then stacking all the photographs together in a beautifully distorted pile. The resulting portrait series is a tribute to mortality rather than vanity - a gentle reminder that our bodies keep changing every second of every day!


With such a large demographic of people in their 60’s and older, it is not only a missed business opportunity, but also an insult that products with low quality and lesser design are still the norm.

Sabi and Fuseproject became venture partners in keeping with our successful model of long-term engagements such as those with Jawbone and Herman Miller.


Age friendly technology Emerging trends ( lifestlye )

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The trends

Keywords (trend) Introverts don’t get lonely if they don’t socialize with a lot of people, but we do get lonely if we don’t have intimate interactions on a regular basis Sophia Dembling. The Introverts Way: Living a Quiet Life in a Noisy World

Nostalgia Solitude

I still love the people I ve lovedeven if I cross the street to avoid them Uma Thurman

Isolation

Peace

The most exhausting thing in life I have discovered is being insincere That is why so much of social life is exhausting one is wearing a mask Anne Morrow Lindberg Girl from the Sea

Slow down

Androgynous

Universal design Emotional value Utility

Correlating trends with the brand

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

I have such a fear of finding another like myself and such a desire to find one! I am so utterly lonely but I also have such a fear that my isolation be broken through and I no longer be the head and ruler of my universe Anas Nin House of Incest


keywords (brand)

Conscious .

"I can't understand why emptiness is the heaviest feeling of all." -seangctn

Slow fashion.

Handcrafted Handmade

Exquisite Contemporary Functional

Minimalistic Soft.

Nostalgia Traveller Wanderer I love places that make you realize how tiny you and your problems are

Settler

You know what will make a difference Pour your heart and soul into everything you do and watch every aspect of your life change one by one jianneorcelada

Storytelling

Love

we loved with a love, that was more than love Edward Allan Poe

Expressive. Modest

Sensual

.

Blending.

Individual Beauty Mundane practicality Structural Fluid

Old New

Oh my God what if you wake up some day and youre or and you never got your memoir or novel written or you didnt go swimming in warm pools and oceans all those years because your thighs were jiggly and you had a nice big comfortable tummy or you were just so strung out on perfectionism and people pleasing that you forgot to have a big juicy creative life of imagintion and radical silliness and staring off into space like when you were a kid Its going to break your heart Dont let this happen Anne Lamott

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


“Pare down to the essence, but don’t remove the poetry.” - Leonard Koren


#8.

The concept The concept

Wabi Sabi Wabi Sabi in aesthetics Keywords Wabi Sabi Material direction Wabi direction Sabi in aesthetics Technique Keywords Motif exploration Materialexploration direction Embroidered ColourTechnique direction direction Motifdirection exploration Silhouette Embroidered exploration Silhouette exploration at boiling down to a particular concept, WabiSub Sabi stories Colour direction emerged as the most befitting story, since it embodies Silhouette direction most of the upcoming trend keywords and the visual representation in the products will suit the brand image Silhouette exploration and brand aesthetics. Sub stories

The brand research, market research, client study and trend research leads to ideation and conceptualisation. Understanding and mapping of the brand helped in developing the aesthetic language that must be coherent throughout the collection and trend research brought forward the relevant key qualities that research, will ensure that study and The brand research, market client the designs are contemporary and will resonate with trend research leads to ideation and conceptualisation. the present times and people will identify themselves Understanding and mapping of the brand helped in more aptly..The brand is set in a tone of nostalgia and developing the aesthetic language that must be coherent the client is more of a the wanderer , a free andresearch hence brought throughout collection andsoul trend similar trends reflecting individualism , freedom and forward the relevant key qualities that will ensure that reminiscence taken After several the were designs areforward. contemporary and attempts will resonate with at boiling the down to atimes particular concept, Sabithemselves present and people will Wabi identify emerged as the aptly..The most befitting embodies more brandstory, is setsince in a ittone of nostalgia and most of the trendof keywords and the upcoming client is more a wanderer , a the free visual soul and hence representation in the products will suit the brand image similar trends reflecting individualism , freedom and and brand reminiscence aesthetics. were taken forward. After several attempts


The concept

Nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect..

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


Wabi Sabi is a comprehensive Japanese world view or aesthetic described as one of beauty that is ‘imperfect, impermanent and incomplete’. Wabi-sabi, as a tool for contemplation and a philosophy of life, may now have an unforeseen relevance as an antidote to the rampant unraveling of the very social fabric which has held us stogether for so long. Its tenets of modesty and simplicity encourage a disciplined unity while discouraging overindulgence in the physical world. It gently promotes a life of quiet contemplation and a gentle aesthetic principle that underscores a meditative approach. Wabi-sabi demotes the role of the intellect and promotes an intuitive feel for life where relationships between people and their environments should be harmonious. By embodying the spirit to remind itself of its own mortality, it can elevate the quality of human life in a world that is fast losing its spirituality.

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The concept

Aesthetic directionWabi Sabi Wabi-sabi represents a comprehensive Japanese world view or aesthetic centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is “imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete”. It is a concept derived from the Buddhist teaching of the three marks of existence, specifically impermanence, the other two being suffering and emptiness or absence of self-nature. Whereas Andrew Juniper notes that “If an object or expression can bring about, within us, a sense of serene melancholy and a spiritual longing, then that object could be said to be wabi-sabi.”For Richard Powell, “Wabi-sabi nurtures all that is authentic by acknowledging three simple realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect.” The words wabi and sabi do not translate easily. Wabi originally referred to the loneliness of living in nature, remote from society; sabimeant “chill”, “lean” or “withered”. Around the 14th century these meanings began to change, taking on more positive connotations. Wabi now connotes rustic simplicity, freshness or quietness, and can be applied to both natural and human-made objects, or understated elegance. It can also refer to quirks and anomalies arising from the process of construction, which add uniqueness and elegance to the object. Sabi is beauty or serenity that comes with age, when the life of the object and its impermanence are evidenced in its patina and wear, or in any visible repairs.After centuries of incorporating artistic and Buddhist influences from China, wabi-sabi eventually evolved into a distinctly Japanese ideal. Over time, the meanings of wabi and sabi shifted to become more lighthearted and hopeful. Around 700 years ago, particularly among the Japanese nobility, understanding emptiness and imperfection was honored as tantamount to the first step to satori, or enlightenment. In today’s Japan, the meaning of wabi-sabi is often condensed to “wisdom in natural simplicity.” In art books, it is typically defined as “flawed beauty.” Source : http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


Source : www.hairbrained.me

Source : www.zenarchitect.com

Source: fineartamerica.com

From an engineering or design point of view, wabi may be interpreted as the imperfect quality of any object, due to inevitable limitations in design and construction/manufacture especially with respect to unpredictable or changing usage conditions; then sabi could be interpreted as the aspect of imperfect reliability, or limited mortality of any object, hence the phonological and etymological connection with the Japanese word sabi, to rust. Specifically, although the Japanese kanji characters (sabi, meaning “rust”) and (sabi, as above) are different, as are their applied meanings, the original spoken word (pre-kanji, yamato-kotoba) is believed to be one and the same. A good example of this embodiment may be seen in certain styles of Japanese pottery. In the Japanese tea ceremony, the pottery items used are often rustic and simple-looking, e.g. Hagi ware, with shapes that are not quite symmetrical, and colors or textures that appear to emphasize an unrefined or simple style. In fact, it is up to the knowledge and observational ability of the participant to notice and discern the hidden signs of a truly excellent design or glaze (akin to the appearance of a diamond in the rough). This may be interpreted as a kind of wabi-sabi aesthetic, further confirmed by the way the colour of glazed items is known to change over time as hot water is repeatedly poured into them (sabi) and the fact that tea bowls are often deliberately chipped or nicked at the bottom (wabi), which serves as a kind of signature of the Hagi-yaki style. Wabi and sabi both suggest sentiments of desolation and solitude. In one sense wabi-sabi is a training whereby the student of wabi-sabi learns to find the most basic, natural objects interesting, fascinating and beautiful. Fading autumn leaves would be an example. Wabi-sabi can change our perception of the world to the extent that a chip or crack in a vase makes it more interesting and gives the object greater meditative value. Similarly materials that age such as bare wood, paper and fabric become more interesting as they exhibit changes that can be observed over time • Honkyoku (traditional shakuhachi music of wandering Zen monks) • Ikebana (flower arrangement) • Japanese gardens, Zen gardens and bonsai (tray gardens) • Japanese poetry • Japanese pottery, Hagi ware, Raku ware • Japanese tea ceremony A contemporary Japanese appraisal of this concept is found in the influential essay In Praise of Shadows by Jun’ichirō Tanizaki.

Source: www.chymfm.com

Wabi Sabi in art and aesthetics

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The concept

01

02

03

04

05

06

07

08

09 Image Sources : 01.www.hairbrained.me 02. www.chymfm.com 03. fineartamerica.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/ 05. www.touchingstone.com 06. autopsyrotica-art.deviantart.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org 08. www.humblebunny.com 09. www.apartmenttherapy.com

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


Asymmetry Asperity Simplicity Economy Austerity Modesty Intimacy ingenuous Integrity Natural Objects Natural Processes

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The concept

Material direction Asperity Different qualities of fabric used together experimenting with fall

Irregularity

01

02

Slub yarns handspun Tweed Linen Handmade

03

Luxury Silk

Natural Unpretentious 04

05

06

Roughness Khadi Jute

Organic Cotton

Rustic

Attention to details Checks & stripes

07

09

Emotive Intimate 10

Image Sources : 01.www.hairbrained.me 02. www.chymfm.com 03. fineartamerica.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

11

12

05. www.touchingstone.com 06. autopsyrotica-art.deviantart.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org 08. www.humblebunny.com 09. www.apartmenttherapy.com

10. taicarmen.wordpress.com 11. www.pinterest.com 12. www.viewpointgallery.org

Softer fall Good drapebility Softner wash


Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The concept

Technique direction : Sasiko embroidery indigo

Geometric repeats

Nostalgia Recycle

Running stitches 02

01

03

Simplicity

Quilting worn out 06

04

05

Sashiko is a traditional Japanese running stitch, worked in repeating or interlocking patterns. The stitching was originally designed for strengthening a single layer of fabric or for patching worn clothing or quilting together several layers of indigo dyed fabric for warmth and durability.

Subtle Uniformity

07 08 Image Sources : 01.www.brainpickings.org 02. www.chymfm.com 03. fteresafritschi.wordpress.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

05. www.gwynmichael.com 06. www.econesting.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org 08. www.humblebunny.com 09. breakingmuscle.comwordpress.com

11. www.pinterest.com 12. www.viewpointgallery.org


Technique direction : Patina Fading

Natural process

Austerity

Tonal variations Patina is a thin layer that variously forms on the surface of stone; on copper, bronze and similar metals (tarnish produced by oxidation or other chemical processes); on wooden furniture (sheen produced by age, wear, and polishing); or any such acquired change of a surface through age and exposure. Figuratively, patina can refer to any fading, darkening or other signs of age, which are felt to be natural or unavoidable. Patinas can provide a protective covering to materials that would otherwise be damaged by corrosion or weathering. Artists and metalworkers often deliberately add patinas as a part of the original design and decoration of art and furniture, or to simulate antiquity in newly made objects. The process is often called distressing.

Pad dyeing

01

02

Monochrome

Erosion

Stone wash Acid wash

Asperity

Unfinished 03

04

Bleach Infusing dyeing and weaving Worn out

Ingenuous

Handmade buttons

Impermanence

Image Sources : 01.www.hairbrained.me 02. www.chymfm.com 03. fineartamerica.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The concept

Technique direction : Dandelion Intimacy

Simplicity

Feather stitch Tassels Gathers 01

02

Survival

03

Modesty

Form French knots 04

05

Integrity

Commonly known as dandelion these are wild flowers with healing properties. Like other members of the Asteraceae family, they have very small flowers collected together into a composite flower head. The dandelion is a well-known perennial flowering plant often greeted with mixed emotion.Dandelions are also symbolic of impermanence, positivity, progress and survival. Each windswept seed signifies a new possibility and new life. “Man is free at the moment he wishes to be.� - Voltaire

Knotting

Natural Processes 06

Decay Impermanence Image Sources : 01.www.hairbrained.me 02. www.chymfm.com 03. fineartamerica.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/ 05. www.touchingstone.com 06. autopsyrotica-art.deviantart.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project

07

Blanket stitches


01

04

07

10

02

03

05

06

08

09

11

Image Sources : 01.www.motherearthnews.com 02.petersenpotterycompany.com 03. fteresafritschi.wordpress.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/

12

05. www.poetichome.com 06. www.econesting.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org 08 www.poetichome.com 09. breakingmuscle.comword-

press.com 11. www.pinterest.com 12. www.designfieldnotes.com

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The concept

Colour direction Faded Purple Austerity Moderate Red accents

Blue

01

02

Subtle

03

Greyish

Nostalgia Sand

Tinted whites Calm 04

05 Image Sources : 01.www.stylehive.com 02. wabisabifarmstudio.weebly.com

06

Intimacy

03.www.redassociates.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/

05. www.janinewhitling.com.au 06.www.robyngriggslawrence.com

PANTONE 7533C

PANTONE 7505C

PANTONE 7510C

PANTONE 7449C

PANTONE 5195C

PANTONE 8100C

PANTONE 426C

PANTONE BLACK 7C

PANTONE 425C

PANTONE 415C

PANTONE 7543C

PANTONE 443C

PANTONE 296C

PANTONE 7545C

PANTONE 7541C

PANTONE 484C

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


Silhouette direction

Modest Hippy Delux The Kimono

01

02

Japanese pilgrim robes

Androgynous tailoring

Assymetry

Volume

Hemlines

A-line Loose

Structured Calf length 03

04

05

Tangram (Chinese: 七巧板; pinyin: qīqiǎobǎn; literally: “seven boards of skill”) is a dissection puzzle consisting of seven flat shapes, called tans, which are put together to form shapes. The objective of the puzzle is to form a specific shape (given only an outline or silhouette)

Minimalistic

Irregular

06

07

08 Image Sources : 01.www.motherearthnews.com 02.petersenpotterycompany.com 03. fteresafritschi.wordpress.com 04.http://emzillaaa.tumblr.com/ 05. www.poetichome.com 06. www.econesting.com 07. wordpress.tokyotimes.org 08 www.poetichome.com 09. breakingmuscle.comwordpress.com 11. www.pinterest.com

Geometric forms

Structured

09

10

11

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


The concept

Story development

The concept of Wabi Sabi is further divided into three smaller stories taking elements from the larger story. Wabi and sabi refers to a mindful approach to everyday life. Over time their meanings overlapped and converged until they are unified into Wabi-sabi, the aesthetic defined as the beauty of things “imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete�. Things in bud, or things in decay, as it were, are more evocative of wabi-sabi than things in full bloom because they suggest the transience of things. As things come and go, they show signs of their coming or going and these signs are considered to be beautiful. In this, beauty is an altered state of consciousness and can be seen in the mundane and simple. The signatures of nature can be so subtle that it takes a quiet mind and a cultivated eye to discern them. In Zen philosophy there are seven aesthetic principles for achieving Wabi-Sabi. Fukinsei: asymmetry, irregularity; Kanso: simplicity; Koko: basic, weathered; Shizen: without pretense, natural; Yugen: subtly profound grace, not obvious; Datsuzoku: unbounded by convention, free; Seijaku: tranquility along with Yohaku- no-bi- the beauty of extra white. Each of these things are found in nature but can suggest virtues of human character and appropriateness of behaviour. This, in turn suggests that virtue and civility can be instilled through an appreciation of, and practice in, the arts. Out of the seven principles, three have have chosen to form the sub stories or themes which are to be translated into design collections for the spring summer 2015, for Tj&Li. In the following pages of this document these sub themes are discussed in details and design directions projected. The product development is strongly influenced by these philosophies and one can see their interpretation in more tangible forms in the silhouettes , fabrics, colours and techniques implemented in the collection.

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


Yohaku- no-bi

Fukinsei

Yugen

Rituparna Sarkar. Apparel Design 2012. Graduation project


“In the middle I want to be at the end, at the end I want to be in the beginning, and in the beginning I want to be in bed.� -Jarod Kintz, This book has no title


Rituparna sarkar programme : MASTER OF DESIGN Textile & Apparel & lifestyle accessory Design I APPAREL DESIGN

National Institute of Design Gandhinagar


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.