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However, the rush is now to the Amaniena (Route
de Ouarzazate; oo zrz 44
40 33 53; amanresorts. com), a beautiful hotel built around water and colonnades just seven kilometres from town.
A favourite with G.,,'1;c Mrchrrel Rerlf crcl and Pitt stayed during where and filming. Pavilions are from f5oo per night. The cognoscenti, meanwhile, are now opting to stay at the newly renovated riads. These small city palaces are hidden away in the lanes and alleyways of the medina. Take
the Riad el Cadi (oo zrz 44 37 86 55), for instance, owned by the former German
mixed starters and sweet pastries for
ambassador and home to his extraordinary
dessert. From about.dr8 for the set menu.
collection of Ottoman embroideries, Byzantine artefacts and Anatolian kelims.
WHERE TO SHOP
Twelve rooms, a courtyard, a swimming pool and a first-century capital as your bed-
The medina
side table, Jasyrt,r Corrrirri loved
it. Taxis cannot take you there, you call from the main square and an escort will lead you through the alleys and lanes. Rooms from MAD r,roo ({66) .
of narrow streets and can alleys and be difficult to negotiate unless you know it well. Each craft has its own area - silver, brass and copper, rugs, fabric, metalwork, leather, babouches (the pointy slipon shoes). Barter if you want to
WHERE 1O EAI
buy. Take your time and enjoy the ritual.
Dar Yacout (oo zrz 44 38 L9 z9). Situated in
For antiques, head to La Porte D'Or (rr5 Souk Semmarine) - old rugs, pricey jewels, or Al Badii (54 Boulevard Mlly Rachid, Gueliz). For leather and suede, head for Flace Vendรถme (14r Avenue Mohammed V), or Galerie Birkemeyer (r55-r67 Rue Mohammed El Beqal), both have Vuitton, Gucci, Hermรถs look-alikes and can have
an opulent old palace, everyone from Prrtcess i-lr':rl r,,r tO ,i, ,.t and Jr-)r)nlti.: Best
gtr
idebo ok Footprint
Mor*co
Handfuk - the Travel Guide B,..st novelHrdeous
(8
1
2.99).
KinW by Esther
Freud (86.99, Penguin). Et,rt greui" The Sheltering Sky, the Beilolucci film based on the Paul BowlSs book of the same narne.
have been here. Traditional Moroccan food
with a set menu, including wine, about d35. Topsil (oo zrz 44 q4 40 5z), the newer, whizzier version of the above with a more
modern slant on the food. Set menu, including wine, about {28. At Fassia (oo zrz 44 44 U 49) - food, as ever, a mix of lamb and chicken or vegetarian tajines, with
-
take a guide (your hotel will
recommend one). Not that it isn't safe, but because it's a maze
clothes made-to-order within z4 hours. Try Au Fil D'Or (ro Souk Semmarine) for kaftans
in the finest Swiss cottons and for a modern
ln
Style
april
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