1
tt
However, the rush is now to the Amaniena (Route
de Ouarzazate; oo zrz 44
40 33 53; amanresorts. com), a beautiful hotel built around water and colonnades just seven kilometres from town.
A favourite with G.,,'1;c Mrchrrel Rerlf crcl and Pitt stayed during where and filming. Pavilions are from f5oo per night. The cognoscenti, meanwhile, are now opting to stay at the newly renovated riads. These small city palaces are hidden away in the lanes and alleyways of the medina. Take
the Riad el Cadi (oo zrz 44 37 86 55), for instance, owned by the former German
mixed starters and sweet pastries for
ambassador and home to his extraordinary
dessert. From about.dr8 for the set menu.
collection of Ottoman embroideries, Byzantine artefacts and Anatolian kelims.
WHERE TO SHOP
Twelve rooms, a courtyard, a swimming pool and a first-century capital as your bed-
The medina
side table, Jasyrt,r Corrrirri loved
it. Taxis cannot take you there, you call from the main square and an escort will lead you through the alleys and lanes. Rooms from MAD r,roo ({66) .
of narrow streets and can alleys and be difficult to negotiate unless you know it well. Each craft has its own area - silver, brass and copper, rugs, fabric, metalwork, leather, babouches (the pointy slipon shoes). Barter if you want to
WHERE 1O EAI
buy. Take your time and enjoy the ritual.
Dar Yacout (oo zrz 44 38 L9 z9). Situated in
For antiques, head to La Porte D'Or (rr5 Souk Semmarine) - old rugs, pricey jewels, or Al Badii (54 Boulevard Mlly Rachid, Gueliz). For leather and suede, head for Flace Vendรถme (14r Avenue Mohammed V), or Galerie Birkemeyer (r55-r67 Rue Mohammed El Beqal), both have Vuitton, Gucci, Hermรถs look-alikes and can have
an opulent old palace, everyone from Prrtcess i-lr':rl r,,r tO ,i, ,.t and Jr-)r)nlti.: Best
gtr
idebo ok Footprint
Mor*co
Handfuk - the Travel Guide B,..st novelHrdeous
(8
1
2.99).
KinW by Esther
Freud (86.99, Penguin). Et,rt greui" The Sheltering Sky, the Beilolucci film based on the Paul BowlSs book of the same narne.
have been here. Traditional Moroccan food
with a set menu, including wine, about d35. Topsil (oo zrz 44 q4 40 5z), the newer, whizzier version of the above with a more
modern slant on the food. Set menu, including wine, about {28. At Fassia (oo zrz 44 44 U 49) - food, as ever, a mix of lamb and chicken or vegetarian tajines, with
-
take a guide (your hotel will
recommend one). Not that it isn't safe, but because it's a maze
clothes made-to-order within z4 hours. Try Au Fil D'Or (ro Souk Semmarine) for kaftans
in the finest Swiss cottons and for a modern
ln
Style
april
2OO2
u,us
take on traditional clothes, head for Beldi (n
and calm. Tropical plants, including cacti
rr
Souikat laksour). For painted glass, perfume bottles and great perfume, head for
and bamboo, set off by bright blue and green painted paths and pots, as well as
L'Orientaliste (r5 rue de la Libert6). Finally,
acres
the most beautiful shop/gallery in the ciry is Riad Tamsna, a ca{6 and book store on the tr U
2 o l
0.1
z tr L
,n
gror-rnd
floor of this renovated riad and
a
boutique seiling lewellery, silk, woven bags
and slippers. You have to phone for an appointment (oo zrz 44 38 5z 7z).
)
รถ o u 4 4. 6 o
r
snal<e
; n;
collection of carpets and ceramics.
a deep, nutty-tasting
weavers, the colours are mouthwatering
the prices eyewatering. From approxime a
small one. tD A bottle of argan
oil from the fruit
The r6th-century Saadian Tombs were
the argan tree found only around Essor
created by refugees from Spain and have
Delicious with bread, pasta or in dressi
of ancient
Approximately f,8. O A dozen tea gla from the souk for approximately
*.zs.l
charmers, admire the dentists and bar-
,.)r.l.i.:!r(.i i:her.,r r Royal
(0845 773 3377').
nights bed and
Air Maroc flies daily hom
Abercrombie & Kent
breakfast at the Riad El Cadi, fom e690, includin
Heathrow to Marrakech via
offers four nights at La
bers at work. Apart from gas cylinders, plirs-
Casablanca. From
Mamouniao from 8790 per
flights and transfers. For
F
tic bowls and a smattering of electricity, the
8363
person, and four nights
further informatiรถn, call
E
scene hasn't changed in cerliuries.
at Amanjena, from f'l ,675 per person, room only,
0845 0700 6't 7, or visit
D
6 o a 6
t
I
after 4 March
(020 74s9 4361).
except Sundays, from
ts
U
-
'tr
tsritish Airways flies daily,
it tr
,
At dusk on the main square, Djemaa el Fna, when the locals gather to eat (don't be
tempted no matter how delicious the smells), listen to the storytellers, watch the
U
f8o for
Moorish plasterwork.
u
LIL
,.ylirt r.QยงltY O A shawl woven in iridescent silks fr Beldi. The work of French weaver Bril Perkins, who has re-taught the art to I
of bougainvillea. It is now owned by :rr,rir:t:t and is next door to his home. The Mus6e d'Art lslamique is the painter's former studio and houses YSL's
, -,1
some wonderful examples
o o
L &'{1,".i
The Jarciin Majorelle, cre2lted by French artistJacques Majorelle, is a haven of shade
9362.40
-
after 14 March
abercrombiekent.co. uk
including flights and transfors. lt also offers four
the dirham