City Harvest: 100 Recipes from Great New York Restaurants by Rizzoli International Publications

CONTENTS

A Note from City Harvest

Foreword by Eric Ripert

Introduction by Florence Fabricant

APPETIZERS

SALADS

SOUPS

PASTA AND GRAINS

FISH AND SEAFOOD

118

POULTRY

132

MEAT

152

SIDES AND VEGETABLES

168

DESSERTS

194

COCKTAILS

209

Index of Restaurants by Neighborhood

210

Restaurant Guide

215

Acknowledgments

216

Conversion Chart

217

Index

4 SERVINGS

CHIPOTLE GRILLED SHRIMP WITH TOMATILLO, ROASTED CORN, AND FETA SALSA

S TA N TO N SOCI A L

1 tablespoon lime juice

The vibe is so very downtown in this lounge-like Lower East Side spot. It was among the earliest non-tapas proponents of small-plate service in the city. Marinating the shrimp overnight might sound excessively long, but these are big shrimp and the marinade infuses them with great flavor and succulence, to be enhanced by notes of char during the cooking.

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Mix the lime juice, chipotle and ancho powders, cilantro, and garlic together in a medium-size bowl. Stir in the olive oil. Add the shrimp, turn to coat them with the marinade, cover the bowl and refrigerate it overnight. Turn the shrimp once or twice as they marinate. To serve, preheat a grill, grill pan, or cast iron skillet to very hot. Sear the shrimp on one side, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn them and sear the other side, until they are just cooked through. Season them to taste with salt. Arrange all the shrimp on a platter or divide them among the salad plates and serve, with salsa on the side.

12 jumbo shrimp (about 1 pound), shelled and deveined

COOK’S NOTES Shrimp are sold according to the number in a

⁄2 teaspoon chipotle powder

⁄2 teaspoon ancho or pasilla chili powder

3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro 1 large clove garlic, forced through a press

Salt Tomatillo, Roasted Corn, and Feta Salsa (recipe follows)

pound. Jumbo shrimp usually come about twelve to the pound, called U-12 in the trade. This recipe can be prepared with smaller shrimp, using more of them, but larger ones will take on nice color without overcooking.

TOMATILLO, ROASTED CORN, AND FETA SALSA 2 CUPS

1 ear fresh corn, shucked 2 tomatillos, finely diced ⁄2 small red onion, finely diced

1 ⁄4 cup finely diced, seeded red bell pepper

in a skillet until lightly browned. Cut the kernels from the cob and place them in a bowl. Add the tomatillos, onion, bell pepper, and cilantro. Mix. Stir in the lime juice and olive oil, fold in the feta, and sprinkle in the chili powder and cumin. Mix, then transfer the salsa to a serving dish.

⁄4 cup chopped cilantro

2 tablespoons lime juice 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil ⁄4 cup crumbled feta cheese

⁄2 teaspoon ancho or pasilla chili powder

⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin

Sear the corn on a hot grill or

SECOND HELPINGS

You may have leftover salsa. It can be stretched with the addition of finely diced fresh pineapple or mango, chopped tomatoes, or even mayonnaise.

4 SERVINGS

MIGLIORELLI FARMS SNAP PEA SALAD

1 pound sugar snap peas, trimmed 1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and chopped 11⁄2 tablespoons lemon juice 11⁄2 teaspoons dried fines herbes Salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves ⁄3 cup freshly-grated Parmigiano Reggiano

⁄3 cup pine nuts, toasted (see Cook’s Notes, page XXX)

⁄4 pound ricotta salata

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the sugar snaps, boil them for about 3 minutes, until crisp-tender, then drain and transfer them to a large bowl of ice and water. Combine the avocado, lemon juice, fines herbes, and about 1⁄2 teaspoon salt in a food processor. Turn on the machine and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a thin stream. Transfer this avocado cream to a dish, cover it with plastic wrap laid directly on the surface, and refrigerate it until serving time. Drain the sugar snaps well and toss them in a bowl with the mint, basil, Parmigiano Reggiano, pine nuts, and remaining olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the avocado cream in a circle on each of four salad plates. Pile the snap pea salad on the avocado cream. Top each portion with shaved ricotta salata.

L A FAY ETTE

Though Andrew Carmellini’s name has come to be associated with Italian and American food in recent years, his training was predominantly French and he rose to prominence cooking at Café Boulud. He has by no means abandoned Italy, but his latest venture, at this evocatively Parisian brasserie-style restaurant, is solidly French. This salad, a worthy contender on any menu, is not so very French after all. But it is simple to prepare, bright with the crunch of lightly cooked sugar snaps, and delicious to consume. It makes an excellent spring or summer first course. Migliorelli is the name of the farm in the greenmarket from which Carmellini buys his peas.

COOK’S NOTES The ingredient list calls for the leaves of herbs;

take the time to pluck them from the stems before chopping them. And when it comes to basil, do not chop the leaves far in advance, because they will turn brown around the edges. Fines herbes usually combines parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives, all dried.

SECOND HELPINGS

Any leftovers can be refrigerated and used the next day to garnish a cold pea soup or to top simply grilled fish.

4 SERVINGS

QUINOA SALAD

R EG EN C Y B A R & G R I LL

1 cup quinoa, preferably red

The massive renovation of the dining room that was once notable only for breakfast has made the Regency an Upper East Side destination for lunch and dinner too. The nuttiness of quinoa is emphasized through the addition of pecans in this salad. It would be a good dish to include on the Thanksgiving table.

Salt 1 medium-size red onion, peeled and cut into 12 wedges 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 star anise ⁄2 cup shelled pecans, broken into large pieces

1 1⁄2 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar Freshly ground black pepper ⁄2 pound thick asparagus; zucchini, or cucumber can be used instead

2 cups baby arugula

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a saucepan. Add the quinoa and 1 tablespoon salt. Cook the quinoa until just tender, about 15 minutes. Drain it thoroughly and let it cool. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Rub the onion wedges with 1 tablespoon of the oil, place them on a sheet of foil with the star anise and a sprinkling of salt, enclose the onion in the foil, and bake until the onion is tender, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, toss the pecans with 2 teaspoons of the oil and a little salt, place them on a sheet of foil, and toast them in the oven alongside the onions for about 10 minutes. Combine the lime juice, pomegranate molasses, sherry vinegar, and remaining oil in a small bowl. Beat to mix. Season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, mix the quinoa with the onions and pecans. Add about half of the vinaigrette. Set the mixture aside. If you’re using asparagus, snap off the ends; for zucchini, trim the top and bottom; for the cucumber, peel it. Then, using a mandoline or a vegetable peeler, cut thin vertical strips from whatever green vegetable you have chosen. Mix the strips with the arugula and toss the greens with as much of the remaining dressing as needed. To serve, place a mound of the quinoa on each of four salad plates. Top it with the vegetable and arugula salad. COOK’S NOTES You can tell

when quinoa is done when you see little white “halos” appear on the seeds.

SECOND HELPINGS

Double the dressing recipe, and you have a nice vinaigrette to keep on hand in the refrigerator for other salads or to use as a marinade for lamb or chicken.

SALADS

4 SERVINGS

ROASTED BEET SALAD WITH BEET VINAIGRETTE

CO L I CC H I O & SON S

9 medium-size beets, trimmed and scrubbed, or 24 baby beets

A chain of sandwich shops, some serious restaurants, including Craft (pictured at right), and even a hotel or two are filling Tom Colicchio’s résumé, to say nothing of his busy TV schedule. Much of his food has depended on vegetables, even before it was fashionable. The restaurant version of this bright, succulent salad uses uniformly sized baby beets. To make the recipe convenient for home cooks, regular beets have been substituted here.

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil ⁄4 cup minced shallot

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ⁄2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Sprigs of fresh tarragon for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Place the beets in a bowl, add the grapeseed oil, season with salt and pepper, and rub the beets to coat with the oil and seasonings. Place the beets on a large sheet of foil and fold the foil over the beets. Place this packet on a baking sheet and roast until the beets are tender, about 40 minutes, or about TK minutes if you are using baby beets. Open the foil and let the beets cool to room temperature. Peel the beets. Coarsely chop one of the medium beets (or 4 baby beets) and set the others aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small skillet on low. Add the shallots and sauté until they are tender and translucent. Transfer them to a bowl and whisk in the vinegar and mustard. Whisk in the remaining olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the chopped beet. Slice the whole beets about 1⁄2 inch thick and divide the slices among four salad plates. (Simply cut baby beets in half.) Spoon the dressing over the beets, garnish them with tarragon, and serve. COOK’S NOTES Though peeling beets once they are cooked will

SECOND HELPINGS

not stain your skin as much as peeling them raw, you still might consider protecting your hands with plastic gloves or sandwich bags when you tackle them.

Golden beets would work as well as red ones here. The important thing is that the beets you use be uniform in size. But in trying to use beets of uniform size, you may need to buy more than one bunch and wind up with extra beets. You can roast the extras and use them as a side dish or, dressed with a sharp vinaigrette, in a salad or as a condiment.

SALADS

4 SERVINGS

AFRO-ASIAN SALMON WITH LENTIL SALAD AND GINGER-SOY DRESSING

T H E CECIL

2 medium-size sweet potatoes

For this dish, the chef, who works with the Cecil, a new Harlem restaurant, gives a nod to Africa, with the sweet potatoes, and to Asia, with ginger, soy sauce, and sesame. A fish as robust as salmon is not daunted by all these elements. Many of the dishes on his menu are similarly cross-cultural and boldly flavored.

⁄4 cup black lentils

Salt 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons lime juice 3 tablespoons soy sauce 4 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 5 tablespoons grapeseed oil ⁄3 cup minced shallots

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 clove garlic, minced ⁄2 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon molasses Cinnamon Coarsely ground black pepper ⁄4 cup thinly sliced red onion

Roast the potatoes for about 40 minutes, until they are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife. Set them aside to cool. Meanwhile, bring 3 cups of water to a boil, add the lentils, and simmer until they are just tender, about 40 minutes. Drain and transfer them to a large bowl; season with salt. In a separate bowl, combine the rice vinegar, lime juice, soy sauce, half of the sesame oil, 4 tablespoons of the grapeseed oil, the shallots, ginger, garlic, chili, mustard, molasses, and a pinch of cinnamon. Season the mixture with pepper and beat until it is smooth. Remove and discard the skin from the potatoes and dice the flesh. Add them to the lentils along with the red onion and currants. Gently fold these ingredients together. Fold in half of the dressing. Brush the salmon with the remaining sesame oil, a pinch or two of cinnamon, and salt and black pepper to taste. Heat a cast iron skillet or grill pan to very hot. Add the salmon and sear the pieces for 2 to 3 minutes on each side for medium rare to medium. Transfer them to a platter and brush them with some of the remaining dressing. Fold the spinach into the lentil salad and add the remaining dressing. Pile the salad in the center of a platter, surround it with the portions of salmon, and serve.

⁄3 cup dried currants

4 (6-ounce) pieces wild Pacific salmon fillet, skinned 4 cups baby spinach

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

100

COOK’S NOTES Wild Pacific salmon—king or sockeye—not

farm-raised Atlantic salmon, is the best fish for this recipe. Cook salmon no more than medium to retain SECOND HELPINGS its moist richness. Other fish, Leftover salad can see including arctic char, black another day, especially if sea bass, red snapper, or wild bolstered with chunks of striped bass would be good sautéed zucchini, fresh corn choices for this preparaoff the cob, diced tomato, or roasted peppers. Grilled tion too; they should not be or poached chicken can be cooked as briefly as salmon. folded in too.

FISH AND SEAFOOD

4 SERVINGS

WHOLE ROASTED RADISHES WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER

8 salt-cured anchovies, rinsed and patted dry 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 24 medium-size radishes, preferably uniform in size 1 clove garlic 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons minced flat-leaf parsley leaves

Place the anchovies in a small

saucepan, add 2 tablespoons of the oil, and cook them on low for about 30 minutes, until the anchovies fall apart and can be stirred into the oil. Set them aside. Preheat the oven to 375° F. Trim the radishes and wash them well. Heat the remaining oil in a fairly small ovenproof skillet, just large enough to hold the radishes. Roll the radishes in the oil, then place the pan in the oven to roast until the radishes are tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes. Turn the radishes once or twice during roasting. Place the pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and butter and cook just long enough to coat the radishes. Stir in the lemon juice and anchovy mixture. Cook briefly, sprinkle the parsley on top, and serve.

R I VER PA RK

Cooked radishes. Anchovies. These are a couple of examples of this chef’s uncommon approaches. His dish is meant to showcase the small, delicate d’Avignon radishes the restaurant grows in its “farm,” a collection of plastic milk crates filled with a growing medium that includes discarded cocoa husks. But even without those particular radishes, the recipe still works, as it balances the tangy radishes with the salt of anchovies and some lemony pucker.

COOK’S NOTES Try to find radishes that are uniform in size,

preferably from a farm stand so they are very fresh.

SECOND HELPINGS

These radishes with their anchovy sauce, even just one per person, make a wonderful garnish for fish.

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4 SERVINGS

PINEAPPLE CARPACCIO WITH COCONUT GRANITÉ AND LIME

PI C H OLI NE

A bastion of elegance and fine food near Lincoln Center, Picholine has long been a star in New York’s dining firmament. This dessert is delectable yet light. Its only drawback is that it should be prepared a day in advance. It makes for a refreshing tropical “predessert” for an important dinner, served before a more elaborate pastry like the pistachio cake on page xxx.

⁄2 pineapple (cut vertically)

1 ⁄2 cups simple syrup (page xxx) 1

Zest of 1 lime 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk ⁄4 cup whole milk

⁄4 cup sugar

⁄2 vanilla bean, scraped

⁄4 cup grated unsweetened coconut 1

Juice of 1 lime 4 mint sprigs for garnish

Trim and peel the pineapple. Cut it in half vertically, giving you two long pineapple quarters. Remove the cores. Cut 16 thin slices from each piece (each piece being a quarter of the pineapple). You should get about 32 slices total. Line a rimmed 10-by-15-inch baking sheet with foil. Arrange the pineapple slices in a single layer on it. Cover them with simple syrup and scatter them with lime zest. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate it, preferably overnight. Place the coconut milk, whole milk, sugar, and vanilla bean in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook it for 3 minutes. Allow it to cool, then pour it into a shallow pan or container and place in the freezer. Use a fork to scrape and fluff the mixture about every 30 minutes, until it is firmly frozen, about 6 hours. To serve the carpaccio, drain the pineapple slices, reserving the syrup, and arrange eight slices in a circle on each of four chilled dessert plates. Place a portion of the granité in the center. If the granité has become hard and difficult to scoop, cut it into chunks and briefly pulse it in a food processor. Mix the reserved syrup with the lime juice. Drizzle a little of the lime-flavored simple syrup on top and garnish with a sprig of mint. COOK’S NOTES If desired, the coconut granité mixture can be

chilled in the refrigerator, then churned in an ice cream maker.

SECOND HELPINGS

Any leftover limeinfused simple syrup should be saved to use in other desserts or cocktails.

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DESSERTS

8 SERVINGS

CLASSIC APPLE PIE WITH CHEDDAR LATTICE CRUST

H I L L CO U N TRY

Pastry Cheddar crust (recipe follows)

Marc Glosserman’s Texas barbecue and chicken restaurants specialize in pie for dessert. The pies are also sold retail to take away. They’re the work of Elizabeth Karmel, whose versatile background has given her expertise on the barbecue front and also the bakery. This apple pie benefits from its rich Cheddar pastry. Ms. Karmel is no longer at Hill Country; she now runs a company that sells North Carolina barbecue.

5 cups sliced, peeled Granny Smith apples ⁄4 cup light brown sugar

4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 teaspoons cinnamon Pinch of salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Separate the dough into two pieces, one twice as large as the other. Roll out the larger piece on a lightly floured surface and use it to line a 9-inch pie plate. Refrigerate both the reserved pastry and the pie shell. Place the apples in a bowl and toss them with the brown sugar. Melt the butter in a heavy 12-inch sauté pan or skillet. Add the apples. Cook them on medium high, stirring, for about 10 minutes, until they start to caramelize. Dissolve the cornstarch, cinnamon, and salt in the lemon juice and add it to the pan. Stir until the juices start to thicken. Spoon the apple filling into the prepared crust. Roll out the reserved dough on a lightly floured surface, cut it into inch-wide strips, and weave a lattice crust to top the pie. Alternatively, you can cover the pie with a top crust, crimping the top and bottom edges together. Bake the pie for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350° F and continue baking for another 40 minutes or so, until the crust is golden brown. Let the pie cool for at least 30 minutes before serving.

CHEDDAR CRUST

CRUST FOR A 9-INCH DOUBLE-CRUST PIE

2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 2 teaspoons granulated sugar Pinch of cayenne 9 tablespoons unsalted butter, in pieces 1 2⁄3 cups grated sharp white Cheddar cheese (about 5 ounces)

Place the flour, salt, sugar, and cayenne in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse briefly to mix. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture has a mealy texture. Add the cheese and pulse again a few times to incorporate it. Drizzle in 1⁄4 cup ice water. Pulse briefly. At this point, see whether the mixture is moist enough to be gathered together. If not, add another tablespoon or two of the water, and pulse until the dough comes together. Shape the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate it until you are ready to use it. COOK’S NOTES Thanks to the cheese, this dough is extremely

easy to handle.

184

DESSERTS

SECOND HELPINGS

There is enough dough to make a standard double-crust pie. If you make a lattice crust, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have some leftover pastry. You can use any of it to make little hors d-oeuvre tartlets to fill and bake with a savory quiche filling.

1 QUART

BLACKBERRY CREMA ICE CREAM

L A N EW YO R KI NA

1 cup blackberries, plus more for garnish

This ice cream company started when Ms. Gerson made paletas, Mexican-style ice pops, and sold them at street fairs. Eventually she set up a small production plant in Red Hook, Brooklyn, the pops started to be sold in stores, and she expanded her line to include Mexican ice creams, pastries, and other confections.

⁄2 cup confectioners’ sugar

2 teaspoons light corn syrup Salt ⁄3 cup granulated sugar

3 large egg yolks 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup Mexican crema or crème fraîche ⁄2 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

Combine the blackberries, confectioners’ sugar, and corn syrup in a small saucepan, stir to mix, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat and simmer slowly, stirring occasionally, until the berries have a jam-like consistency, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Refrigerate until cold before using. While the blackberries cool, whisk the granulated sugar and egg yolks in a medium-size bowl until smooth. Bring the heavy cream to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat. Slowly whisk about half the hot cream into the yolks until smooth, then pour this mixture back into the saucepan. Place over medium-low heat and stir continuously for about 10 minutes, until the custard mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Do not allow it to come to a simmer or the eggs will overcook. Strain the custard into a bowl, preferably stainless steel, and whisk in the crema, vanilla, lime juice, and salt to taste. Cover by placing plastic wrap directly on the surface of the custard so a skin doesn’t form as it cools. Transfer to the refrigerator to chill completely. Pour the chilled custard into an ice cream maker and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions until it is churned and thickened. Transfer the soft ice cream to a bowl and swirl in the blackberry mixture with a spoon or spatula. Pack into an airtight container. Cover and freeze until set, at least 4 hours or overnight. Served topped with lightly crushed fresh blackberries. COOK’S NOTE: This type of ice cream, with a custard base, is

190

DESSERTS

French ice cream. (Ice cream made without custard is Philadelphia style). Making custard can be tricky; if the eggs are overcooked, SECOND they scramble and your custard is ruined. One safety meaHELPINGS sure is to cook the custard in a pan set over a boiling water Ice cream is not forever: Fresher is better. If you do not bath, but the cooking will take much, much longer. A useful use the entire quart that this guideline is that when the very first wisp of steam starts to recipe yields, return the rest to rise from the custard, it’s done. Take it off the heat at once. the freezer in its container with a This custard can be made a little lighter by using half-andsheet of plastic wrap directly half in place of heavy cream. The Mexican crema called for on the surface of the ice cream. in this recipe is essentially the same as French crème fraîche, Plan to consume it within though sometimes made with a touch of salt. Neither type of a few days. soured cream is as tart as American sour cream; they also will not break down when heated. If you prefer seedless blackberries in the ice cream, start with 1 1⁄2 cups of berries and strain them once they are cooked.

191

2 SERVINGS

QUEBEC GOES TO PARIS

M.W EL L S S T EA KH OUSE

1 stalk lovage or center stalk of celery with leaves, plus a couple of leaves for garnish

Sarah Obraitis and Hugue Dufour attract much attention with their M.Wells restaurants in Long Island City, Queens. Their original M. Wells, a diner, closed, but they have the cafeteria at MoMA PS1 and, nearby, a brash steak house in a former auto-body shop.

6 dashes celery bitters 3 ounces Chartreuse, preferably yellow 3 ounces grapefruit juice ⁄2 ounce lemon juice

⁄4 ounce simple syrup

Muddle the lovage or celery in

a cocktail shaker. Add the remaining ingredients, mix, and add ice. Shake. Strain the cocktail into double old-fashioned glasses and add crushed ice. Garnish with lovage or celery leaves. COOK’S NOTES Lovage is a

somewhat uncommon herb that has the distinctive aroma and flavor of celery, making celery a fine substitute for it in this drink.

SECOND HELPINGS

Using leftover celery stalks poses no challenge. But consider exploiting the leaves to add to a salad or to garnish a seafood dish. The same goes for lovage.

SIMPLE SYRUP

Simple syrup is a half-and-half mixture of granulated sugar and water, simmered just until the sugar dissolves. 3 CUPS

2 cups granulated sugar

Combine the sugar with 2 cups water in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until the sugar dissolves completely and the syrup is clear. COOK’S NOTES A honey version of simple syrup can be made

SECOND HELPINGS

Simple syrup keeps for several weeks in the refrigerator. Store it, covered, in a jar or bottle.

206

by substituting a light honey like clover for the sugar. Maple syrup, brown sugar, agave, and coconut sugars are some other sweeteners that can be transformed into simple syrup.

C O C K TA I L S