Gateaux by Rizzoli International Publications

30 | IN ONE BITE

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AQUITAINE ◆

WE HAVE BARELY CHANGED THE ORIGINAL RECIPE OF THIS SPECIALTY OF BORDEAUX, THE CANELÉ (WITH A SINGLE ‘N’, IF YOU PLEASE, IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE LOCAL SPELLING). THESE TEA CAKES ARE ALWAYS DELICIOUS, AND EVEN BETTER WHEN HOME MADE. FOLLOW TRADITION AND USE COPPER MOLDS FOR AUTHENTIC TASTE.

CANELÉS PREP: 15 MINUTES CHILL: 12 HOURS CO OK: 35 TO 40 MINUTES MAKES ABOUT 20 CAKES

INGREDIENTS

1 egg, plus

EQUIPMENT

2 cups (500 ml) whole milk

2 egg yolks

Traditional copper canelé molds

(and not skim!)

3 tablespoons (50 ml) dark rum

Non-stick spray

1 vanilla bean

1 cup (4½ oz. / 125 g) flour

3 tablespoons (2 oz. / 50 g) butter,

1 pinch salt

room temperature 1¼ cups (9 oz. / 250 g) sugar

MAKE THE BATTER 1. Bring the milk to a boil. Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a knife tip. Add the seeds and vanilla bean to the milk and infuse for 5 minutes. 2. If necessary, soften the butter slightly in the microwave oven without allowing it to liquefy. In a mixing bowl, beat together the butter, sugar, egg, egg yolks, and rum. Gradually stir in the flour and salt without creating air bubbles. With a whisk, gently incorporate the hot milk. Chill for at least 12 hours.

BAKE THE CUSTARD CAKES 1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). 2. Spray the molds well. 3. Pour the batter into the molds, stopping ¼ inch (5 mm) short of the rim. 4. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a brown shell forms around the cakes.

54 | IN ONE BITE

MACARON-TOPPED MERINGUES PREP: 20 MINUTES CO OK: 1 HOUR 40 MINUTES, MINIMUM

SERVES 8

FRENCH MERINGUE

1 scant cup (4 oz., 120 g)

TOPPING

4 egg whites

confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Roughly crushed differently-

1 pinch salt

colored macarons

Scant 2⁄3 cup (4 oz. / 120 g) sugar

A little confectioners’ sugar for

1 sachet vanilla sugar

dusting

MAKE THE FRENCH MERINGUE 1. Preheat the oven to 290°F (150°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer with the salt and whisk at medium speed until frothy. (You can also use a hand mixer.) Add one-quarter of the sugar and the entire sachet of vanilla sugar. Whisk at high speed until the whites hold firmly between the loops of the whisk. With the whisk still turning, add the remaining sugar. When it is incorporated, switch off the whisk. With a wooden spoon or flexible spatula, carefully fold in the confectioners’ sugar. 3. Spoon the meringue mixture into a pastry bag and pipe small balls onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with the crushed macarons and dust with a little confectioners’ sugar. 4. Bake for at least 10 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 235°F (120°C), and bake for 1 hour 30 minutes, until perfectly dried out. They should not color. 5. Allow to cool to room temperature and carefully remove them from the parchment paper. Store in an airtight container.

The secret to making good meringues is to wait until the egg whites are nice and frothy before adding the sugar. Be sure to begin by adding just one-quarter of the quantity called for. For these meringues, we use the French meringue method, which involves no cooking prior to baking. At our pastry shop, the macarons that are not perfectly shaped are put through a large mesh. We use the broken bits to scatter on meringues, both large and small. These colored sprinkles are attractive decorations for large festive cakes, too.

94 | S U N D AY B R I O C H E S

PUFF PASTRY BRIOCHE P R E P : 1 H O U R ( P R E F E R A B LY A D AY A H E A D ) RISE: 5 HOURS CO OK: 25 TO 30 MINUTES

SERVES 10

ALMOND CREAM

ORANGE GARNISH AND

EQUIPMENT

4 tablespoons (2 oz. / 60 g) butter,

TRIMMINGS

Two 5½-inch (14 cm) loaf pans

YEAST DOUGH

room temperature

5½ tablespoons (3 oz. / 80 g)

¼ oz. (8 g) fresh yeast

1 egg

butter, room temperature

Scant ½ cup (110 ml) whole milk

1⁄3 cup (2 oz. / 60 g) sugar

(cut into knobs)

2 cups (9 oz. / 250 g) all-purpose

½ capful orange liqueur, such as

2 oz. (60 g) candied orange peel,

flour, plus extra for the

Grand Marnier

diced

work surface

Finely grated zest of ½ unwaxed

2½ oz. (75 g) orange marmalade Lightly beaten egg yolk for the

1 egg

lemon

3½ tablespoons (1½ oz., 40 g) sugar

¾ cup (2 oz. / 60 g) finely ground

egg wash

1 teaspoon (5 g) salt

almonds

Light brown sugar for sprinkling

6 tablespoons (3 oz. / 90 g)

A little liquid, colorless cane syrup

butter, softened and diced, plus 2

(or simple syrup)

tablespoons (30 g) for the pans

MAKE THE YEAST DOUGH (Preferably a day ahead) 1. Crumble the yeast into a little of the milk and stir to dissolve. Pour the milk with the yeast into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle beater (or dough hook). Add the flour, eggs, remaining milk, sugar, and salt. Begin kneading at low speed, then increase the speed, continuing until the dough is smooth and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Gradually knead in the butter. Knead for a further 5 minutes, until the dough is again smooth and elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. 2. Transfer to a mixing bowl, cover with a clean cloth, and allow to rise at room temperature for 1 hour. Then cover it in plastic wrap and chill for 2 hours. It’s even better if you can allow it to rest overnight. MAKE THE ALMOND CREAM In a mixing bowl, whisk the butter at high speed. Add the egg and some of the sugar and continue to whisk briskly. Whisk in the remaining sugar, orange liqueur, and grated lemon zest. Lastly, whisk in the ground almonds. Do not allow the mixture to become pale. MAKE THE BRIOCHE 1. Grease the loaf pans with butter. Dust the work surface well and roll the dough into a rectangle ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. Dot the knobs of softened butter over the surface and spread it with a spatula.

2. Fold the lower third of the dough towards the middle, then fold the upper third over that. This makes one “turn.” Press down lightly to seals the part together, but do not crush the dough. 3. Lightly dust the dough on the surface and below. Roll it into a rectangle slighter bigger than previously. With an offset spatula, thinly spread the almond cream over the dough, stopping a small distance short of the edges. Combine the diced candied orange with the orange marmalade. Dot the orange garnish over the cream. 4. With a pastry brush dipped in water, moisten the longer edge of the dough (one side only) so that it will hold together when rolled up. Roll from the unmoistened side, rolling tightly at first. As you roll, make sure you hold it firmly, and lengthen the roll by pulling gently on it. 5. With a knife, cut the rolled dough into two pieces each 8 inches (20 cm) long. Lightly brush the two pieces of dough with water and twist them together. Cut the twist into 2 equal parts and place them in the loaf pans. Allow to rise for 2 hours in a warm room. 6. Preheat the oven to 345°F (180°C). 7. Brush each brioche with the egg wash and sprinkle generously with light brown sugar. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Immediately brush with sugar cane syrup. Turn out of the pans and allow to cool.

9 6 | S U N D AY B R I O C H E S

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STEP-BY-STEP ◆

PUFF PASTRY BRIOCHE

1. Prep your ingredients and equipment.

2. Lightly dust the work surface and begin rolling the dough.

3. Roll it into a rectangle with a thickness of ¼ inch (6 mm).

4. Dot knobs of softened butter over the dough and spread it with a spatula.

9 7 | S U N D AY B R I O C H E S

5. Fold one-third upward to the center of the buttered rectangle.

6. Fold the other third over, like an envelope.

7. Press down lightly to seal the folded parts together, taking care not to crush the dough.

8. Once again, roll the dough out, making it bigger than the previous rectangle. Dust both sides lightly with flour as you work.

9. Spread a thin layer of almond cream over the dough using an offset or ordinary spatula.

Cont. page 98

146 | FRUIT DESSERTS

STRAWBERRY—PISTACHIO LAYER CAKE WITH VERBENA PREP: 3 HOURS CO OK: 10 TO 15 MINUTES CHILL (BEFORE SERVING): 1 HOUR

for the batter

MOUSSELINE CREAM

3 tablespoons (50 g) melted butter

1 stick plus 2 teaspoons (4 oz. / 125

KIRSCH SYRUP

2⁄3 oz. (20 g) pistachio paste,

g) butter, softened

½ cup (½ oz. / 100 g) sugar

softened

½ vanilla bean, split seeds scraped

SERVES 8

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (20

Scant ½ cup (100 ml) whipping

A few fresh verbena leaves EQUIPMENT

An 8½-inch (22 cm) dessert ring 2½ inches (6 cm) high, or a homemade board frame of the

ml) kirsch

VERBENA–VANILLA PASTRY

cream

Scant ½ cup (100 ml) water

CREAM

1 lb. (450 g) verbena–vanilla pastry

1¼ cup (300 ml) whole milk

cream

A baking sheet at least 16 inches

PISTACHIO SPONGE LAYER

½ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped

1 cup (7½ oz. / 220 g) egg whites,

2 tablespoons dried verbena leaves

GARNISH

A pastry bag fitted with a plain

about 7½

Scant 1⁄3 cup (2¼ oz. / 65 g) sugar

1¾ lb. (800 g) strawberries

Scant 2⁄3 cup (4 oz. / 120 g) sugar

3 egg yolks

2½ tablespoons (1 oz. / 30 g)

for the egg whites, plus

3 tablespoons (1 oz. / 30 g)

confectioners’ sugar

Scant 2⁄3 cup (4 oz. / 120 g) sugar

cornstarch

MAKE THE KIRSCH SYRUP Combine the sugar and water and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the kirsch. MAKE THE PISTACHIO SPONGE LAYER 1. Preheat the oven to 395°F (210°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Whisk the egg whites, gradually adding a scant 2⁄3 cup (4 oz. / 120 g), until the mixture holds firm peaks. Combine the remaining sugar with the flour. With a flexible spatula, fold the sugar and flour into the meringue mixture. Add the melted butter and then the pistachio paste and fold carefully into the batter. 3. Using a spatula, spread the batter in a ½-inch (1 cm) layer over the prepared baking sheet. Smooth with a spatula. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until barely colored and still springy to the touch. Transfer to a rack and allow to cool.

same dimensions (40 cm) wide 1/3-inch (8 mm) tip

MAKE THE VERBENA–VANILLA PASTRY CREAM 1. Pour the milk into a saucepan and add the vanilla bean and seeds, verbena, and half of the sugar. Bring to a boil. 2. In a mixing bowl, combine the egg yolks with the remaining sugar. Incorporate the cornstarch and whisk until the mixture is smooth. Pour in a little boiling milk, whisking constantly, and return the egg yolk– cornstarch–milk mixture to the saucepan. 3. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the pastry cream has thickened. As soon as it comes to a simmer, remove from the heat and pour into a mixing bowl. 4. Cover with plastic wrap pressed over the entire surface and place in the refrigerator.

Cont. page 148

162 | FRUIT DESSERTS

LEMON ROULADE PREP: 40 MINUTES CO OK: 16 MINUTES

SERVES 10 TO 12

SOFT ROLLED SPONGE

SYRUP

EQUIPMENT

6 eggs, plus

Juice of 1 orange

Two 12 x 16 inch (30 x 40 cm) baking sheets

LEMON CREAM

4 egg yolks

Finely grated zest of ½ unwaxed

3 unwaxed lemons

2⁄3 cup (4½ oz. / 125 g) sugar

orange

Scant 2⁄3 cup (4 oz. / 120 g) sugar

1 cup (4½ oz. / 125 g) all-purpose

Juice of 1 lemon

¾ cup (6½ oz. / 180 g) eggs, about 6

flour

Finely grated zest of ¼ unwaxed

eggs, lightly beaten

lemon

1 stick plus 3 tablespoons

1 tablespoon sugar

(5½ oz. / 160 g) butter, room temperature, diced

MAKE THE LEMON CREAM 1. Wash and dry the lemons. Finely grate the zest and squeeze the juice. 2. In a non-stick saucepan, combine the lemon juice, zest, sugar, and eggs. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil. Immediately remove from the heat and stir in the butter. When incorporated, process briefly with an immersion blender until smooth. 3. Pour the cream into a bowl and press a sheet of plastic wrap over the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate to cool.

MAKE THE SYRUP In a mixing bowl, combine the orange juice and zest, lemon juice and zest, and sugar.

MAKE THE SOFT ROLLED SPONGE 1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Line the baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Place 1 egg and all of the egg yolks in a mixing bowl. Add the sugar and whisk with an electric beater. Add the remaining eggs, one by one. Whisk until the mixture is very light, creamy, and almost white; this should take 5 to 8 minutes. 3. Sift the flour and fold it in carefully with a flexible spatula, taking care not to deflate the mixture. 4. With a spatula, spread the batter over the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 7 to 8 minutes, swapping the baking sheets round midway, until a very light brown. Immediately slide the sponge layers on their sheets of parchment paper onto a rack and allow to cool.

Variation: You can moisten this sponge with a syrup made with dark rum or vanilla, and garnish it with 8 oz. (250 g) of chestnut cream, comprising 3½ oz. (100 g) unsweetened chestnut purée, 3½ oz. (100 g) chestnut paste, 2 oz. (50 g) chestnut spread, combined with 1 cup (250 g) well whisked cream.

ASSEMBLE THE CAKE 1. Carefully peel the parchment paper from each sponge layer. Dip a pastry brush in the syrup and lightly moisten the surface that was in contact with the paper. Spread the lemon cream over the surface and carefully roll up the sponge. Repeat with the other sponge layer to make a second cake.

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BROUSAILLE

(HAZELNUT MERINGUE CAKE) 2. When the sugar syrup registers 237°F (114°C), whisk the egg whites at high speed with the remaining 3 tablespoons (1½ oz. / 35 g) of the sugar. When the sugar syrup registers 244°F (118°C), carefully pour it down the side of the bowl into the whites. Continue whisking at medium speed until the meringue cools to room temperature. This should take about 10 minutes. Weigh out 7½ oz. (210 g) for the praline cream and keep it at room temperature. MAKE THE PRALINE CREAM 1. Soften the butter. Whisk it well until it is very light. Whisk in the hazelnut paste and hazelnut praline. With a flexible spatula, fold in the Italian meringue, taking care not to deflate the mixture. 2. Fold in the crushed praline. MAKE THE RUM SYRUP Combine the water, sugar, and vanilla seeds in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and stir in the rum. Allow to cool. ASSEMBLE THE DESSERT 1. With a pastry brush, moisten the sponge layers lightly with the rum syrup. 2. Place a first layer of sponge on a baking sheet. Pipe one third of the praline cream over it and set another layer of sponge over that. Pipe another third of the cream over the sponge and top with the third sponge layer. 3. Cover the cake entirely with the remaining praline cream. 4. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to set.

CHOCOLATE SHARDS 1. Break the chocolate into pieces and place them in a heatproof bowl. 2. Place the bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water and stir the chocolate until it registers 131°F (55°C). 3. Pour three-quarters of the chocolate onto a marble slab or other cold, dry surface. Working with a spatula, spread and turn the chocolate until it cools to 82 to 84°F (28 to 29°C). 4. Scrape the chocolate that you have been stirring into a slightly warmed bowl. Gradually stir in the remaining quarter of the melted chocolate, keeping an eye on the temperature. When it reaches 88 to 90°F (31° to 32°C), add no more of the warmed chocolate. If the temperatures at any stage are not correct, reheat the chocolate, preferably in the microwave oven or in an oven at 115°F (45°C). 5. Clean and dry the work surface. Pour a small quantity of chocolate on it, spreading it very finely with the spatula, until smooth and even. Allow to set. 6. Holding the filleting knife at a low angle, cut diagonally to make shaving that you catch with the knife. The shavings roll up by themselves. If the chocolate is too firm, rub it lightly with the palm of your hand and start again. 7. Place the shavings on a baking sheet and leave for a few minutes to firm up. Alternatively, remove the cake from the refrigerator and place them on and around it as you make them. 8. Dust the top of the cake with the cacao powder.

2 0 2 | C E L E B R AT I O N C A K E S

OLD-FASHIONED SPICE CAKE PREP: 25 MINUTES CO OK: 1 HOUR

SERVES 8 TO 10

1⁄3 cup (1½ oz. / 45 g) potato starch

6 oz. (180 g) orange marmalade

GLAZE

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon

3 oz. (180 g) lemon marmalade

2 oz. (50 g) smooth apricot

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (135 ml)

(1⁄2 oz. / 15 g) baking powder

3 eggs

preserves

whole milk

2 tablespoons (1 oz., 25 g) light

1 stick (4 oz. / 120 g) butter,

2 tablespoons orange marmalade

softened, plus 2 tablespoons

1⁄3 oz. (9 g) star anise, about 8

brown sugar

1 cup (13 oz. / 360 g) acacia honey

1 heaping tablespoon (1⁄3 oz. / 9 g)

(30 g) for the mold

EQUIPMENT

1⁄3 cup (1½ oz. / 40 g) all-purpose

cinnamon

1¼ teaspoons (7 g) fine salt

A 9-inch- (22 cm-) diameter

flour

1 teaspoon (5 g) four-spice mixture

enameled cast-iron mold, or other

2¼ cups (8 oz. / 225 g) rye flour

or allspice

shaped mold

MAKE THE CAKE 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Grease the mold with butter and dust it lightly with flour. 2. Bring the milk to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the star anise, remove from the heat, and infuse for about 10 minutes. 3. Lightly warm the honey in a small saucepan or briefly in the microwave oven. 4. In a large mixing bowl, combine the two types of flour, potato starch, baking powder, light brown sugar, cinnamon, and four-spice mixture. 5. Stir in the honey and both marmalades with a wooden spoon. Stir in the eggs, butter, and salt. Strain the milk directly into the batter and stir until smooth. BAKE THE CAKE 1. Pour the batter into the prepared mold and bake for 30 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 375°F (180°C) and bake for a further 30 to 35 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. 2. Allow to cool in the mold very briefly then turn onto a rack.

GLAZE AND DECORATE THE CAKE 1. When the cake is almost cool, soften the apricot preserves over low heat and stir in the orange marmalade. 2. When the mixture is runny, brush the top of the spice cake with it. If you wish, decorate with slices of candied or plain orange and cinnamon sticks. Hunt around antique shops and garage sales for castiron molds; they are perfect for this recipe.

2 1 6 | C E L E B R AT I O N C A K E S

PINEAPPLE BABA WITH LIME PREP: 2 HOURS CHILL: 1 HOUR CO OK: 25 MINUTES SERVES 10

FINELY DICED PINEAPPLE

1⁄3 cup (2 oz. / 60 g) sugar

LIME-FLAVORED MERINGUE

5 oz. (150 g) fresh pineapple

2½ tablespoons (25 g) cornstarch

Scant ½ cup (3½ oz. / 100 g) egg

BABA WITH SYRUP

Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed

1 tablespoon (20 g) unsalted butter

whites, about 3¼

¾ cup (200 ml) water

lime

1 sheet (2 g) gelatin

Scant cup (6 oz. / 180 g) sugar

½ cup (3½ oz. / 100 g) sugar

2 teaspoons (10 ml) lime juice

Scant ½ cup (100 ml) whipping

Finely grated zest of ½

cream

unwaxed lime

Finely grated zest of ½ unwaxed lime

PASTRY CREAM WITH WHIPPED

Finely grated zest of ½ unwaxed

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon

CREAM

lime

(20 ml) dark rum

1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

One 10 oz. (300 g) baba

½ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped

extra for decoration

(see page 188)

3 egg yolks

Confectioners’ sugar

GETTING READY Place a mixing bowl in the freezer. You will need it to whip the cream. MAKE THE SYRUP AND SOAK THE BABA Pour the water and sugar into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the lime zest and rum and allow to cool. Cut the baba in two horizontally. Pour the syrup into a dish and place the baba halves in the syrup. Pour over the syrup from time to time so that the entire cake is moistened. Remove any excess syrup. PREPARE THE DICED PINEAPPLE 1. Trim the pineapple and cut it into wide strips, then dice it finely. 2. In a mixing bowl, combine the pineapple well with the lime zest and juice and place in the freezer. MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM WITH WHIPPED CREAM 1. Bring the milk to a boil with the vanilla bean and seeds. Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch together until smooth. Pour some of the hot milk over the egg mixture, whisking constantly, then return the liquid to the saucepan. Bring to a boil again. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter to prevent the pastry cream from cooking any further. 2. Cool the pastry cream rapidly: Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap and spread the pastry cream over it and cover with more plastic wrap. Place in the freezer for 10 minutes, and then in the refrigerator for 1 hour. 3. Soften the gelatin in a bowl of very cold water. 4. In the chilled bowl, whisk the cream until it holds between the loops of the whisk. Whisk the chilled

GARNISH

3½ oz. (100 g) fresh pineapple, plus

pastry cream (preferably using the stand mixer) until smooth and creamy. 5. Combine the gelatin with a little of the pastry cream and dissolve it over medium heat. Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the lime zest and whisk in the remaining pastry cream. With a flexible spatula, fold in the whipped cream. Chill for 1 hour, until lightly set. ASSEMBLE THE CAKE 1. Make sure the baba is well moistened. Spread half of the pastry cream with whipped cream over the lower half of the moistened baba. Scatter with a little of the diced pineapple. 2. Cover with the other half of the baba, which should also be well moistened. Place in the refrigerator. MAKE THE LIME-FLAVORED MERINGUE 1. Preheat the oven to 455°F (240°C). 2. Whisk the egg whites until they are the texture of a light mousse. Gradually add the sugar–do not start adding it too early, as this makes the meringue heavy, and if you add it late, the meringue can become grainy. The meringue for this cake should be light and soft. ASSEMBLE THE CAKE 1. Cover the cake with meringue, making small waves in it with a metal spatula. 2. Place the cake on a baking sheet and bake for a few minutes so that the meringue is just cooked on the outside. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and decorate with the remaining pineapple.

2 3 6 | C E L E B R AT I O N C A K E S

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ALSACE ◆

IN THE DIALECT OF ALSACE, BUTTERBREDELE MEANS, QUITE SIMPLY, “LITTLE BUTTER COOKIES.” WE MAKE THEM MAINLY AROUND CHRISTMAS, BUT YOU’LL SEE THEM THROUGHOUT THE YEAR.

BUTTERBREDELE PREP: 30 MINUTES CHILL: 1 HOUR CO OK: 15 TO 20 MINUTES

MAKES ABOUT 80 COOKIES

½ cup (3½ oz. / 100 g) sugar

EGG WASH

2½ tablespoons (1 oz. / 30 g) vanilla

1 egg yolk

COOKIE DOUGH

sugar

1 cup (4 oz. / 125 g) all-purpose

Scant 1⁄2 cup (1½ oz. / 40 g) ground

EQUIPMENT

flour, plus

almonds

Holiday cookie cutters, such as

2½ cups (10½ oz. / 300 g) all-

3 tablespoons (1 oz. / 25 g)

stars, Christmas trees, and hearts,

purpose flour

confectioners’ sugar

or any other shape of your choice,

2 sticks (8½ oz. / 240 g) butter,

1⁄3 cup (3 oz. / 80 g) eggs, about 1½

approximately the same size

room temperature

eggs

¼ teaspoon (1 g) vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon (1 g) baking powder

MAKE THE COOKIE DOUGH 1. Sift 1 cup (4 oz. / 125 g) of the flour. 2. In a mixing bowl, working with a whisk or hand mixer, beat the butter, vanilla extract, sugar, vanilla sugar, ground almonds, confectioners’ sugar, and sifted flour together. Beat just enough to combine: do not allow the mixture to become pale. Beat in the eggs. 3. Sift the remaining flour with the baking powder and incorporate into the preceding mixture. 4. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

CUT AND BAKE THE COOKIES 1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Roll the dough to a thickness of 1⁄8 inch (4 mm). 3. Cut out the shapes with the cookie cutters and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet. 4. Lightly beat the egg yolk and brush the tops of the cookies. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden. Transfer to a rack and allow to cool before serving.

2 74 | C A K E S O F T H E W O R L D

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GERMANY ◆

THIS CAKE IS PROUDLY REMINISCENT OF THE TRADITIONAL BLACK, RED, AND WHITE FINERY WORN IN THE BLACK FOREST REGION. NOT MUCH HAS CHANGED SINCE ITS CREATION AROUND 1915, BUT, AS THE PROVERBIAL CHERRY ON THE TOP, WE HAVE UPDATED THE DÉCOR.

BLACK FOREST CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE CREAM PREP: 4 HOURS CO OK: 30 TO 35 MINUTES FREEZE: 1 HOUR SERVES 10

5 tablespoons (1¼ oz. / 35 g)

PASTRY CREAM

CHANTILLY CREAM

unsweetened cacao powder

1 cup (250 ml) whole milk

1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream 2½ tablespoons (1 oz. / 30 g) sugar

CHERRIES IN LIQUEUR

2 tablespoons (2⁄3 oz. / 20 g)

½ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped

7 oz. cherries, fresh, frozen, or

cornstarch

2½ tablespoons (1 oz. / 25 g)

1 teaspoon (5 ml) kirsch

canned

6 eggs

cornstarch

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Scant 1⁄3 cup (2 oz. / 60 g) sugar

1 cup minus 2 tablespoons (6 oz. /

¼ cup (2 oz. / 50 g) sugar

1 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons

170 g) sugar

3 tablespoons (2 oz. / 50 g) egg

DECORATION

(25 ml) kirsch

A little butter for the pan

yolks, about 2½

A few chocolate leaves

1 teaspoon (5 ml) amaretto

2 teaspoons (10 g) butter

(see page 261) A few cherries

CREAMY CHOCOLATE LAYER KIRSCH SYRUP

4 oz. (120 g) bittersweet chocolate,

2⁄3 cup (150 ml) water

66% cacao (see Note)

1 sheet (2 g) gelatin

EQUIPMENT

Scant 1⁄3 cup (2 oz. / 60 g) sugar

½ cup (125 ml) heavy or whipping

1 teaspoon (5 ml) kirsch

An 8½-inch (22 cm) springform pan

2 tablespoons (30 ml) kirsch

BLACK FOREST CREAM

cream

3½ oz. (100 g) pastry cream

A pastry bag fitted with a Saint

½ cup (125 ml) whole milk

1¼ cups (300 ml) whipping cream,

Honoré tip

CHOCOLATE GENOVESE SPONGE

2 egg yolks

whipped

CAKE

2 tablespoons (1 oz. / 25 g) sugar

1 cup (4½ oz. / 130 g) all-purpose flour, plus extra for the pan

A FEW DAYS AHEAD (IF POSSIBLE): MACERATE THE CHERRIES Combine all the ingredients, place in a jar, and seal. Refrigerate for as long as possible. MAKE THE KIRSCH SYRUP Bring the water to a boil with the sugar. Remove from the heat and stir in the kirsch. MAKE THE CHOCOLATE GENOVESE SPONGE CAKE 1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Grease the cake pan with butter and dust it lightly with flour. 2. Sift the flour and cacao powder together.

3. In a heatproof mixing bowl, whisk the eggs lightly with the sugar. Place the mixing bowl over a hot water bath and whisk with an electric beater or by hand for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and continue whisking for 10 to 15 minutes, until very foamy and pale. 4. Fold the sifted dry ingredients in carefully with a wooden spoon, taking care not to deflate the mixture. 5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 375°F (200°C) and bake for a further 20 to 25 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out dry. 6. Place on a rack, carefully remove the ring of the pan, and allow the cake to cool.

Cont. page 276

3 0 4 | TA R T S

CARAMEL–CHOCOLATE TART PREP: 2 HOURS C H I L L ( T O TA L ) : 1 H O U R 3 0 M I N U T E CO OK: 20 MINUTES SERVES 8 SWEET PASTRY CRUST

¼ teaspoon (1 g) ground vanilla

1¾ teaspoons (2 g) instant coffee

1⁄3 cup (2½ oz. / 75 g) sugar

12⁄3 cups (7 oz. / 200 g) all-purpose

granules

3½ tablespoons (2½ oz. / 75 g)

flour

5 oz. (150 g) bittersweet chocolate,

glucose syrup

64% (see Note)

3 tablespoons (1½ oz. / 40 g) butter

1 tablespoon (15 g) butter, diced

1 pinch fleur de sel

1 stick (4 oz. / 120 g) butter, softened, plus extra for the tart ring

CHOCOLATE GANACHE

Generous 1⁄2 cup (2½ oz. / 75 g)

2⁄3 cup (170 g) whipping or heavy

confectioners’ sugar

cream

SOFT CARAMEL LAYER

EQUIPMENT

¼ cup (1 oz. / 25 g) ground almonds

1 tablespoon (1 oz. / 25 g) glucose

½ cup (115 ml) whipping cream

An 8½-inch (22 cm) tart ring or pan,

¼ teaspoon (1 g) salt

syrup

¼ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped

1¾ inch (2 cm) deep

1 egg

1 tablespoon (1 oz. / 25 g) honey

2 teaspoons (5 g) powdered milk

MAKE THE SWEET PASTRY CRUST 1. Combine the softened butter with the confectioners’ sugar, ground almonds, salt, egg, and ground vanilla. Incorporate the flour; do not overmix. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour. 2. Preheat the oven to 375°F (200°C). Grease the tart ring with butter. 3. The dough should be chilled and firm by now. Beat it lightly with a rolling pin to soften it. If it is too soft (for example if the room is too warm or the work surface not cold enough), roll it on a sheet of parchment paper and return it to the refrigerator for a few minutes. Roll to a thickness of 1⁄8 inch (3 mm) and line the tart pan. 4. Bake for about 20 minutes, until light brown, and allow to cool. MAKE THE CHOCOLATE GANACHE 1. Bring the cream to a boil with the glucose syrup and honey. Stir in the instant coffee. 2. Chop the chocolate and place it in a mixing bowl. 3. Strain the cream directly over the chocolate and allow it to melt for 2 minutes. With a flexible spatula, stir until smooth. Stir in the diced butter. Reserve at room temperature. MAKE THE SOFT CARAMEL LAYER 1. In a saucepan over medium heat, heat the cream with the vanilla bean and seeds and powdered milk. 2. Place the sugar and glucose syrup in a heavybottomed saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring well so that the sugar is evenly distributed.

3. When the caramel is a rich dark color, very carefully add the cream in several additions. Be aware that the caramel will boil and rise very quickly the first time. Use a wooden spoon to stir in the remaining cream. 4. Allow to boil, still over medium heat, for 2 minutes, until the mixture reaches the consistency of a soft caramel candy. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter; this will prevent any further cooking. Stir in the fleur de sel. 5. To test for doneness, pour a little of the mixture onto a plate. It should firm up slightly, but retain the softness of a soft candy. 6. Scrape the caramel into a mixing bowl and allow to cool. ASSEMBLE THE TART 1. Carefully spread a layer of ganache over the tart crust. Place in the freezer for 30 minutes, until set. 2. Soften the caramel over a hot water bath or directly over medium heat, without allowing it to heat. When it is pourable, spread it over the ganache layer. 3. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes before serving. The honey I use here enhances the chocolate–caramel taste combination. Note: I recommend Manjari by Valrhona.

3 3 8 | TA R T S

CARAMEL AND WALNUT TART PREP: 20 MINUTES CHILL: 1 HOUR CO OK: 30 MINUTES SERVES 8

ALMOND–WALNUT CREAM

SOFT CARAMEL LAYER

TOPPING AND GARNISH

5 tablespoons (2½ oz. / 70 g) butter

½ cup (115 ml) heavy cream

1 teaspoon (5 ml) dark rum or kirsch

SWEET PASTRY CRUST

1⁄3 cup (2½ oz. / 70 g) sugar

¼ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped

3½ cups (14 oz. / 400 g) shelled

1 stick (4½ oz. / 125 g) butter,

1 egg

2 teaspoons (5 g) powdered milk

walnuts

softened, plus extra for the tart ring

Generous ½ cup (2 oz. / 50 g)

1⁄3 cup (2½ oz. / 75 g) sugar

1 egg, room temperature

ground almonds

3½ tablespoons (2½ oz. / 75 g)

1 pinch fleur de sel

¼ cup (2⁄3 oz. / 20 g) ground walnuts

glucose syrup

¼ cup (1 oz. / 25 g) ground

2 tablespoons heavy cream

3 tablespoons (1½ oz. / 40 g) butter

hazelnuts

1 tablespoon dark rum

1 pinch fleur de sel

EQUIPMENT

An 8½-inch (22 cm) tart pan

Generous 1⁄2 cup (2¾ oz. / 75 g) confectioners’ sugar 12⁄3 cups (7 oz. / 200 g) all-purpose flour

MAKE THE SWEET PASTRY CRUST 1. If the butter is not sufficiently soft, briefly heat it in the microwave oven without allowing it to liquefy. 2. Place the butter in a large mixing bowl and add the egg, salt, ground hazelnuts, and confectioners’ sugar. Beat with a wooden spoon until smooth. 3. Sift the flour into the bowl and knead it in with your hands until just combined. Shape it into a ball, cover in plastic wrap, and chill for 1 hour. MAKE THE ALMOND–WALNUT CREAM In a mixing bowl, soften the butter. Beat in the sugar, egg, ground almonds and walnuts, and then the cream. When smooth, stir in the rum. MAKE THE SOFT CARAMEL LAYER 1. In a saucepan over high heat, bring the milk to a boil with the vanilla bean and seeds and milk powder. 2. Melt the sugar and glucose syrup in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly to cook them evenly. When the caramel is a rich dark color, carefully pour in some of the cream—be careful, as the caramel will boil and rise very fast. With a wooden spoon, stir in the remaining cream in several additions.

3. Continuing over medium heat, allow the mixture to boil for 1 minute, until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter to prevent the caramel from cooking further. Stir in the fleur de sel. To test for doneness, drop a little on a plate: it should remain fairly soft. 4. Pour the caramel into a bowl and allow to cool to room temperature. ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE TART 1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (200°C). Grease the tart pan with butter. 2. Roll the dough to a thickness of 1⁄8 inch (3 mm) and line the tart pan with it. 3. Bake for 15 minutes. Spread a layer of almond–walnut cream just under ½ inch (10 mm) thick over the crust and bake for a further 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 345°F (180°C). 4. Allow the tart to cool. Spread a generous layer of caramel over the almond–walnut cream. Moisten with the rum. 5. While the tart is cooling, roast the walnuts very lightly in the oven. Allow to cool and arrange attractively over the tart. 6. To decorate, gently reheat a little of the caramel and drizzle lines over the top of the tart with it.

356 | JUST FOR FUN

HEDGEHOG CAKE PREP: 1 HOUR CO OK: 35 MINUTES

SERVES 8 MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20 CM) CAKE

SPECULOOS PASTE

CAKE BATTER

8 Speculoos cookies, roughly

¾ cup (200 ml) whole milk

1¾ sticks (7 oz. / 200 g) butter, plus

crushed (see page 282)

Scant 1⁄3 cup (1¼ oz. / 35 g)

extra for the mold

powdered milk

4 eggs

DECORATION

11⁄2 tablespoons (2⁄3 oz. / 20 g) light

1 cup (7 oz. / 200 g) sugar

1 scant cup (3½ oz. / 100 g) slivered

brown sugar

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon

almonds

4 oz. (110 g) Speculoos cookies

(5 oz. / 140 g) all-purpose flour, plus

2 oz. (50 g) almond paste

see page 282)

extra for the pan

Unsweetened cacao powder to

2 tablespoons (30 g) groundnut oil,

2 oz. (65 g) homemade

color the almond paste

or other neutral oil

Speculoos paste

3 oz. (80 g) milk chocolate,

Generous 1⁄3 cup (1 oz. / 30 g)

EQUIPMENT

chopped

ground hazelnuts

A hedgehog-shaped cake pan

2 teaspoons vanilla extract 3 oz. (80 g) praline milk chocolate, chopped

MAKE THE PASTE 1. Bring the milk to a boil with the powdered milk and light brown sugar. 2. Place the Speculoos cookies in the bowl of a food processer and grind to a powder. 3. Add the oil and pour in the boiling milk and sugar mixture. Process very briefly, until combined. 4. Strain through a sieve over the milk chocolate. Stir to combine. Weigh out 2 oz. (65 g). (You can store any leftover paste in a jar for another recipe.) MAKE THE CAKE BATTER 1. Preheat the oven to 345°F (180°C). Grease the cake pan with butter and dust it lightly with flour. Rap to remove any excess. 2. In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Allow to cool slightly. 3. In the bowl of a mixer, whisk the eggs and sugar for 10 minutes. Add all of the flour and mix in. Stir in the melted butter. When the mixture is smooth, carefully fold in the ground hazelnuts and vanilla extract. 4. Pour this mixture in 2 or 3 additions over the homemade Speculoos paste, stirring to combine.

BAKE AND DECORATE THE CAKE 1. Pour some of the batter into the prepared mold to a depth of 2½ inches (6 cm). 2. Spread the chopped praline chocolate and crushed cookies over the batter. Pour the remaining batter over this layer. 3. Bake for 35 minutes. 4. Lightly roast the almonds in a skillet without any fat. 5. Turn the cake out of the pan and place on a rack to cool. 6. With a finely serrated knife, cut off a small layer from the base of the cake, trying to keep it in one piece to replace. Spread a little of the Speculoos paste over the crumb. Place the cut piece over the paste and turn the hedgehog over. 7. Insert the cooled slivered almonds into the back (this is the part the children will love, so let them join in). 8. Working with your hands, knead the cacao into half of the almond paste. Shape two small white balls with the uncolored paste to make the eyeballs. Shape the eyebrows, pupils, and nose with the colored paste. And now the hedgehog cake is ready to be eaten! Note: If you can’t find slivered almonds, place whole blanched almonds in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain them and, using a knife, cut them into small sticks. When I was an apprentice, we used to make all our slivered almonds by hand.