In the Loupe June 2019 Edition

REGISTRATION DEADLINE:

I N

JUNE 28

T H E

LOUPE

The Premier Jewelers Cooperative

J u n e 2 0 1 9 • Is s u e 8 6

IN THE KNOW WITH RJO

Countless Successes SEE PAGE 2

FROM THE RJO FACEBOOK PAGE

SEE PAGE 3

NEW VENDORS

SEE PAGE 6

JEWELER PROFILE

R. C. Wahl Jewelers SEE PAGE 10

COVER STORY

Custom Designs SEE PAGE 13

CHECK INTO SCHAUMBURG

Summer Celebration RJO’s Summer Buying Show is July 27-29

MOTHER’S DAY SALES are over. Check.

Graduation season is in the books. Check.

Now is the perfect time to take a break and look ahead. RJO offers just that, with the Summer Celebration Buying Show in Schaumburg, IL, from July 27-29.

We’ll call the Renaissance Schaumburg Convention Center Hotel home for the weekend, but it will also be home to valuable educational seminaras, an inspiring keynote, numerous get-togethers, as well as wonderful networking opportunities. The hotel’s exhibit hall will host our Buying Show floor, featuring the best Vendors in the jewelry world, including a number of new ones!

RJO’s numerous membership benefits continue as well, including: complimentary nights at the host hotels, buying discounts via RJO Purchase Vouchers, food coupons, our popular Purchase Voucher Frenzy, and a variety of excursions, including fun-filled shopping on Chicago’s legendary Magnificent Mile!

Register Today: Retailer Registration Deadline is June 28!

THINK BEYOND THE COUNTER ...

RJO Foundation T-shirts

RJO Foundation Candy Bars

Bags Tournament

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

Totally Tropical Time

In the Know with RJO

Countless Hours, Countless Successes

I HEARD A JEWELER ONCE TELL ME a story about a very successful employee she had, and she ended her praise by saying, “It’s great and all, but she has so many sales, I’m exhausted from always having to order more inventory and running deposits to the bank!” I just returned from our Merchandise Review Committee (MRC) Meeting at the JCK Show in Las Vegas, and I feel a bit like this store owner.

Merchandise Review Committee Jeff Wickersham (Chairman) Wickersham Jewelry Mike Noe (Vice Chairman) Noe’s Jewelry Brendon Davis Thomas A. Davis Jewelers Joanna Gruver Haywood’s Westlake, LLC Cody Miller Alan Miller Jewelers Tom Nelson Nelson’s Jewelry

The MRC is so successful in what they do for RJO, we’re all working in overdrive here in the main office, finalizing the agreements, sending out welcome information to the new vendors, creating new profiles within the RJO system, and getting them registered for the upcoming show. But don’t think for a second we’d have it any other way.

The addition of new vendors is always so positive for our group, and you can see the result of the MRC’s hard work on page 6 of this issue.

Kendra Harris Jayson Jewelers Ltd.

At next month’s Buying Show, there will be excitement among the members when they visit the New Vendor Pavilion on the Buying Show floor. It happens every time, and I get compliment after compliment about how great

it is RJO now has Vendor X or Vendor Y. I accept the compliments, but I’m sure to pass them on to our MRC. They spend countless hours reviewing applications of prospective vendors, then conducting interviews, deciding who makes the cut, and then working hard in negotiating the best terms and deals for you, the RJO members.

I should point out the most recent MRC reviews were completed using a new format. The Committee conducted fewer interviews in Vegas so they could spend more time at JCK seeking out vendors to meet specific RJO needs, as well as looking for what successful trends might lie ahead. Reviews are still thorough, though, as prospective vendors will be interviewed prior to each Buying Show. This means each show you will see vendors you have never seen before.

Please be sure to check out the MRC members listed in the sidebar, and thank them for their work when you see them at the Summer Buying Show in Schaumburg next month.

Which brings me to our Summer Celebration Buying Show. If you haven’t yet registered for the Show, please do so today. This issue is filled with lots of Show information, and everything about it tells me it will be another great show for members and vendors alike.

Sarah Streb RJO CEO

RJO BOARD NEWS

We would like to congratulate incumbents Nancy Marchell of Signature Jewelers, Erika Godfrey of Hawthorne Jewelry, Bill Becker of Becker’s Jewelers, and Rich McIntosh of McIntosh Jewelry on their re-election to the RJO Board of Directors. We also would like to thank candidates Kim Lizzi of Kim’s Fine Jewelry and Jeffrey B. Kaiser of JB Kaiser Jeweler for their interest in serving the membership and willingness to give their time and talent to the organization. We truly appreciate their dedication to RJO’s present and future.

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

REGISTRATION DEADLINE: JUNE 28

From RJO’s Facebook Page

THE RJO PAGE ON FACEBOOK hosts a variety of interesting discussions every day. Here is an edited exchange from a post earlier this month:

SERVICES Centralized Billing

Patronage Dividend

RJO Website (rjomembers.com) Buying Shows (Fall/Spring) RJO Chat Channel

In the Loupe – RJO’s newsletter Free Print and Radio Ad Library (on the RJO website)

We all get comfortable with our “putting away” routines, but this is a friendly reminder to always stay aware, and fill those safes at night as much as you can. Stay safe, RJO family.

Educational Seminars (at the Buying Shows)

Member-to-Member Incentive Program (Recruitment Program)

Organized Buying Trips to Antwerp and IdarOberstein RJO Directory

Travel Vouchers at Shows (offered at varying times)

Free Hotel Room Incentive (at the Buying Shows)

RJO Informational E-mail Blasts Purchase Vouchers (at the Buying Shows)

RJO Membership Certificate RJO Next Gen and RJO Succession Experiences

Private Label Credit Card Service JewelConnect

Scholarship Opportunities (from the RJO Foundation)

Post: This post is a reminder for jewelers to stay vigilant! Our friends who own a jewelry store in the next town over had a burglary over the weekend. The thieves cut all power to their building after they closed up at night for their two days off. The battery backup powered on, but the thieves waited until it died (most last 4 to 24 hours) meaning no alarm would sound after it dies! They then cut a hole through the roof and dropped inside. They went in undetected and had hours to be inside. They even used a ladder in their back room to climb back out. Unfortunately, the alarm system never called them with news the battery backup had triggered. They had no idea until they walked into work after being gone for two days.

Reply One: This was in California. I read in a recent post there were 37 power cuts in 30 days nationwide, and it was for jewelry stores specifically!

Reply Two: Not good at all! Would you be able to send me the link or any other info about it? I would love to read the article.

Reply Three: Nationwide Jewelry Store Burglars Disabling Alarm Systems: NCIC

Reply Four: My alarm company must have heard of the same thing going around the country. They called me offering to upgrade my notifications and replace my battery backup for more money.

Reply Five: Get a larger battery, and insist the alarm company calls you and the police at the slightest difference in power to the panel.

Reply Six: Just had this discussion with my local alarm guy. Be aware, have the conversation, know where your alarm system stands!

Reply Seven: So scary. Hopefully they catch these crooks! Just glad no one was hurt!

Reply Eight: Good post, this so important!

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

Many Ways to Support RJO Foundation in Schaumburg THE UPCOMING BUYING SHOW is certainly a Summer Celebration for all aspects of RJO and its members, but the RJO Foundation will reap the rewards of many aspects of the Show, all fun and some delicious. The result is a larger Foundation, which has a direct impact now and for the future.

Earlier this year the RJO Foundation Scholarship Committee awarded eight (8) scholarships, and since the Foundation’s inception in 2015, RJO has awarded 57 members more than $26,500 in scholarship funds. The Foundation supports the advancement of the jewelry industry by providing scholarships and grants to individuals or programs.

Here are ways to support the Foundation during your time in Schaumburg next month:

long day at the Show. Even if you’re not on a team, be sure to cheer during this fun opportunity to support the RJO Foundation Scholarship Fund. The tournament begins Saturday night at 7:10 on the Sam and Harry’s patio. Jumbo Jenga, Jumbo ConnectFour, and other tailgating games will be available for spectators. For more information about the event or questions, email Alison at: alison@rjomembers.com • Get Your Chocolate Fix

At the Show RJO will be selling delicious, decadent, award-winning chocolate from Vande Walle’s Candies, located in Appleton, WI. Bars will be sold at the registration desk throughout the duration of the show for $1. All proceeds benefit the RJO Foundation.

• Buy Your Official Show Shirt

Show shirts are available only for a limited time.

During the shirts’ debut at our record-breaking Winter Buying Show, there were Show shirts everywhere. It was quite a sight, and we can’t wait to see the entire RJO membership wearing their new shirts on the Show Floor on Sunday, July 28. Order one for you—and your team. The deadline for placing your shirt order is Friday, June 28th. All proceeds benefit the RJO Foundation.

- To order the baseball tee, click here.

- To order the RJO Foundation polo, click here.

• Enjoy the RJO Foundation Bags Tournament & Patio Party The RJO Foundation Bags Tournament and Patio Party is a great way to kick back and relax after a

• Register for Excursions

A small portion of the cost of each excursion adventure (see page 9) benefits the RJO Foundation.

• Buy Raffle Tickets for the Purchase Voucher Frenzy

This should be familiar to all Show veterans: RJO is teaming up with participating vendors to offer purchase vouchers good only during the last three hours of the show! RJO also will be providing three (3) $200 vouchers to be applied to your RJO account. Drawings for all purchase vouchers will be held at noon on Monday. More details may be found on page 7). Proceeds benefit the RJO Foundation.

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

REGISTRATION DEADLINE: JUNE 28

Antwerp/Idar-Oberstein: Every year it gets better RJO’S ANNUAL EUROPEAN BRANDING TRIP offers jeweler members a truly unique experience that’s much more than simply a business trip.

"When I think about traveling to Antwerp," says Nancy Marchell of Signature Jewelers in Grand Forks, ND, "it's much more than a diamond buying trip. It is an 'experience.' Traveling to the diamond capital of the world connects you with fellow jewelers who will become life long friends, it gives you a bigger picture of the jewelry and diamond industry, and it helps you set yourself apart with the RJO Antwerp Diamond Connection. It helps you create YOUR story. The RJO diamond buying

experience in Antwerp will help you fall in love with the jewelry business all over again. Every year it gets better!"

In addition to experiencing a rich excursion into the world of European diamonds and gems, RJO members receive a year-long social media campaign that ties in with the European Branding Trips.

Changes to this year's trip include two new European Vendors: Star Solitaire in Antwerp and Rolf H. Müller in Idar-Oberstein. Former vendor Schurhammer Manufacturing has retired its Antwerp office (though its office in Minnesota is still open), and Hans-Dieter Haag has withdrawn from RJO.

The European Trip Hosts are looking forward to seeing all of you at the European Branding Reception in Schaumburg. To learn more about this great opportunity, contact RJO trip coordinator Connie Matsen at: cmatsen@rjomembers.com

Sign Your Store Up Today for Antwerp/Idar-Oberstein in October 2019

2019 Dates

First Europe Trip Hosted by Liz Schlauch & Jeff Horlacher Antwerp: October 5-10 Idar-Oberstein: October 10-14

Second Europe Trip Hosted by Connie & Steve Matsen Antwerp: October 12-17

How RJO-JewelConnect Works For You

AS MANY ALREADY KNOW, RJO’s exclusive JewelConnect system is essentially three great systems in one. The “front door”—JewelConnect.com site— directs the public to their local RJO store using a powerful product catalog, including thousands of great pieces from RJO vendors.

Secondly—and relevant to website owners—each member store also has a Profile Page system which acts as a stand-alone store-specific jewelry catalog.

“This is great for attaching product to a site,” says JewelConnect’s Andrew Boundy.

Thirdly, there are several jeweler tools, such as the RJO Diamond Library, which houses 15,000 diamonds for searching by members.

“JewelConnect was set-up as a direct response to the challenge of online retail by combining hundreds of

group stores into a powerful online network,” says Boundy. “By using our ‘Shop Online, Buy In-Store’ philosophy, the system continually combats competitive e-commerce by sending the buying public to professional jewelers for superior service and product. Any time we can steal online buyers and get them into the store, this is a win, because that experience keeps them coming back for more.”

“Online purchasing is a one-time, low retention, pricefocused relationship,” Boundy added, “but in-store is quite the opposite, which is why it will always work.”

RJO members can get more information anytime at JewelConnect.com. Simply click “Contact” at the top.

JewelConnect reps are also available at every RJO show to discuss all their RJO-exclusive options. Learn more about JewelConnect at: www.JewelConnect.com.

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

New Vendors

ANIA HAIE Alisa Bunger Dallas, TX (866) 256-6151 www.aniahaie.com Company Description: Today’s top fashion trends in sterling silver, designed to bring in new customers to your store.

INOX/SALESONE Guy Pineda & Sebastian Velasquez Norwalk, CT (203) 356-9077 www.inox-us.com Company Description: INOX men’s jewelry features unique modern, contemporary and edgy men’s jewelry in alternative metals. The line, which consists of more than 1,400 designs, can cater to any customer demographic and hits the impulse purchase price point of $80-$120.

JD & CO A TRUNG DO GOLDSMITH CO Johnny Do Tacoma, WA (253) 537-5572 www.jdcojewelry.com Company Description: JD&CO is your seamless fullservice extension of your in-house jewelry services, offering jewelry and watch repair, custom design, restoration, casting and assembly, and more. All under one roof with a state-of-the-art trade shop, featuring the latest in laser technology. With a 24/7 online job tracking system, giving you the transparency you need when outsourcing. Trusted jeweler since 1991.

JEWELRYVIDEOS.COM Tiffany Gonzalez & Damian Capello Las Vegas, NV (206) 316-6909 www.jewelryvideos.co C Company Description: We provide digital marketing solutions, with jewelry marketing videos for retailers.

MITCHELL K JEWELRY Liza Blumental San Diego, CA (833) 799-2738 www.mitchellkdesigns.com Company Description: San Diego, CA-based jewelry manufacturer specializing in personalized jewelry, including photo jewelry in HD, name necklaces, pendants, cut outs, bars, locations/coordinates. All of our pieces are made in-house and are made to order.

ODI/TACHE Michael Haider New York, NY (212) 371 1234 www.ODIjewelry.com Company Description: Led by two generations of the Weinman family, ODI is a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, offering innovative products with exceptional customer service.

ROLF H MÜLLER Baerbel Voight-Stoecker & Christian Goerner Idar-Oberstien, Germany (+49) 6781-31234 https://www.rhmueller.com Company Description: Since 1949, already in the third generation, we have always been a strong and reliable partner of the jewelry and accessory industry, supporting customers all over the world. We are cutting precious stones, semi-precious stones, as well as many synthetic and imitation stones in all needed shapes and sizes. Beside standard merchandise, we also produce goods exactly upon the needs of our customers per their samples or drawings. We are continuously improving ourselves to grant the best quality products and best service to your customers.

Requests will be answered regularly within 24 hours.

For terms and discounts, visit RJO’s online Vendor Directory.

Does RJO Have Your Most Up-to-Date E-mail Addresses?

If you’ve changed your e-mail address lately or would prefer to receive RJO communications at a different address, please let us know.

Address updates and changes can be directed to Erin Sharp in the RJO office at: erin@rjomembers.com

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

Quick Look • Quick Look • Quick Look• Quick Look

REGISTRATION DEADLINE: JUNE 28

RJO Summer Buying Show 2019 • July 27-29 • Schaumburg Member Registration Deadline: June 28, 2019 Complimentary Accomodations

All qualifying members of RJO receive up to three consecutive nights’ lodging compliments of RJO.

RJO will pay the base rate for up to three nights’ accommodations for qualifying members staying at any of the Show's host hotels.

Only Friday, Saturday, Sunday, or Monday nights qualify. A nightly rate starting at $149 plus taxes and fees will apply to non-qualifying members and members staying more than three nights. RJO does not cover suite upgrades or additional persons.

There only are two ways you can make your room reservation.

Online: Login to RJOMembers.com, and visit the Buying Show Section of the site. If you need a username and password, or have forgotten yours, contact RJO at: (800) 247-1774.

Telephone: Renaissance and Embassy are sold out, but may have cancellations, and we have recently booked our second overflow property: - Renaissance: (847) 303-4100 - Embassy Suites: (847) 397-1313 - Springhill Suites: (847) 995-1500

Dedicated websites: Created so you can make, modify, and cancel hotel reservations online: - Renaissance - Embassy Suites - Springhill Suites

PHOTO IDs ARE REQUIRED FOR EVERYONE ENTERING THE SHOWROOM

To ensure the safety of all of our members and vendors, we require a photo ID and business card upon registration check-in. Both items must be presented to receive your badge for access to the show floor.

Purchase Voucher Frenzy!

RJO is teaming up with participating vendors to offer purchase vouchers good only during the last three hours of the Show!

Don’t leave the show early and miss the chance for free credit.

RJO will also be providing three (3) $200 vouchers to be applied to your RJO account. A list of participating vendors and amounts will be provided prior to the show.

Drawings will be held at noon Monday and you must be present to win.

To win, have your Purchase Voucher Frenzy ticket—provided in your registration packet—with you during Monday’s drawing, and listen for your ticket number to be called. Increase your odds by purchasing extra tickets at the show for $5 each (or 3 for $10).

All proceeds go to the RJO Foundation.

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

Purchase Vouchers

Keep more money in your pocket on every purchase at the Summer Celebration Buying Show by using RJO purchase vouchers during the show. Your specific voucher percentage – up to an additional 2.5 percent off each purchase – will be based on your store’s 2018 RJO purchase total.

2018 Purchase Total: Additional Discount on All Show Purchases $100,000 - $149,999.99:

$150,000 - $199,999.99:

$200,000 - $499,999.99: $500,000 or greater:

1%

1.5% 2%

2.5%

Important: To receive your additional discount, you must fill out and submit all vouchers to RJO prior to the end of the Show or via FAX/ e-mail to RJO by August 7. Voucher terms are six months. Your percentage discount will be available at the Show registration desk or by calling RJO prior to the Show.

FRIDAY, JULY 26

Magnificent Mile Shopping Experience* 12:30 - 5:30 p.m.

Chicago City Tour* 12:30 - 5:30 p.m.

Mix, Match and Color 1 - 2 p.m.

You Can’t Have Dessert Until You Eat Your Peas 1 - 2:30 p.m.

Thinkspace Website and Vendor Cloud Demonstration 2:30 - 4:15 p.m.

What Malo Has in Store for YOU 2 - 3 p.m.

The EDGE Users’ Meeting 2:30 - 5 p.m.

Raising the Tide of the Jewelry Industry 3 - 4:30 p.m.

How to Blow Up Attendance and Sales Before, During, and After Your Events 3 - 5 p.m.

Early Member and Vendor Registration 3 - 8:30 p.m.

Custom Design Jewelry Sketching 101 4 - 5 p.m.

World of Virtual Selling 5 - 6:30 p.m.

Earths Greatest Gifts 5 - 6: 30 p.m.

Adapting to the Changing Retail Environment 5:30 - 6: 30 p.m.

New Member Reception and Orientation #1 5:30 - 6:30 p.m.

RJO Kick-off Reception & Tower Displays 6:30 - 8:30pm Top 10 Trends for Fall 2019 7:30 - 9 pm

BUYING FLOOR HOURS Saturday, July 27 2 - 7 p.m.

Sunday, July 28 9:30 a.m. - 6 p.m.

Monday, July 29 9:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.

Show & Event Schedule SATURDAY, JULY 27

Seminar Continental Breakfast 7:30 - 9 a.m.

Member Show and Seminar Registration 7:30 a.m. - 12:30 p.m.

Educational Seminars 8:30 a.m. - 12:20 p.m.

General Membership Meeting, Luncheon and Keynote 12:30 - 2 p.m.

Member Show Registration 1 - 7 p.m.

New Member Orientation #2 2 - 3 p.m.

Buying Floor Grand Opening 2 - 7 p.m.

Idea Center 2 - 7 p.m.

Buying Floor Welcome Reception 5:30 - 7 p.m.

Next Generation Reception 6 - 7 p.m.

European Branding Opportunity Reception 6:30 - 8:30 p.m.

RJO Foundation Bags Tournament 7 - 10 p.m.

MONDAY, JULY 29

SUNDAY, JULY 28

Sharing the Best of Your Schaumburg Experience & Continental Breakfast 8 - 9:30 a.m.

Show Registration Desk Opens 8:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.

Buying Floor Opens 9:30 a.m.

Idea Center 10 a.m. - 12 p.m.

Farewell Reception 2 - 3 p.m.

Buying Floor Closes 3 p.m.

Topgolf* 5:30 - 9:15 p.m.

Member and Vendor Joint

Breakfast & Vendor of the Year Awards

7:30 - 9 a.m.

Show Registration Desk Opens 8 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.

RJO Brain Gain Breakouts 8 - 9:30 a.m.

Buying Floor Opens 9:30 a.m.

Idea Center

10 a.m. - 5 p.m.

Press Release Photo Session 1 - 3 p.m.

Personalized European Branding Trip DVD Filming 3:30 - 5 p.m.

RJO Happy Hour 5 - 6 p.m.

Buying Floor Closes 6 p.m.

Sunday Evening’s Totally Tropical Time & Lifetime Achievement Presentation 6 - 8:30 p.m.

*Cost of optional excursions is the responsibility of the participant.

To register for any of the following group activities, indicate the one(s) you wish to attend on your registration form and remit payment. Optional excursions cannot be changed, canceled or refunded after Friday, June 28.

Show Notes THE RJO IDEA CENTER The RJO Idea Center, located on the Buying Show floor, is a designated area on the show floor allowing you the opportunity for one-on-one professional consultations with some of our seminar presenters and is a great place to take a break from the Buying Floor buzz and share ideas, brainstorm, or just put your feet up with fellow RJO members.

SUNDAY EVENING’S TOTALLY TROPICAL TIME & LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT PRESENTATION After a successful day on the Buying Show floor, it’s time to grab a drink and gather at our bright tropical affair. RJO welcomes you to sit back, relax, and enjoy an event filled with bright colors, pineapples, and a live jazz cover band. We also will be presenting one very special RJO partner with this year’s Lifetime Achievement Award!

6 - 8:30 p.m.

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

REGISTRATION DEADLINE: JUNE 28

Educational Seminars TRACK ONE: HUMAN

RESOURCE UNIVERSITY

8:30 - 9:20 a.m.

CREATING AND MANAGING A STORE CHARITABLEGIVING PROGRAM

Mark Loren, Mark Loren Designs

9:30 - 10:20 a.m.

FIVE SECRETS OF HUMAN RESOURCES TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS

Andrea Herran, Focus HR Consulting

10:30 - 11:20 a.m.

ROBBED: LESSONS LEARNED AND FUTURE SAFEGUARDS

Elizabeth Meacham Kittell, Pretty in Patina and Jewelry, Coin, Pawn Insurance Specialist at All American Insurance

11:30 a.m. - 12:20 p.m.

ALL ABOUT THAT BASE

Jim Matero, Prime Consulting, Serge Fischler, Fischler Diamonds, Tiffany Gonzalez, Keep Me Connected

TRACK TWO: MONEY:

HOW TO FIND IT, KEEP IT, AND MAKE IT!

8:30 - 9:20 a.m.

ARE YOUR TEAM’S SALES NEXT LEVEL? 5 TECHNIQUES TO GET THEM THERE

Becka Johnson Kibby Charleen Pfaff, EDGE Retail Academy

9:30 - 10:20 a.m.

SELLING AND PRICING REPAIRS FOR MAXIMUM PROFIT AND EASE

David Geller, JewelerProfit

10:30 a.m. - 12:20 p.m.

SOCIAL MEDIA ... THE ONLY CONSTANT IS CHANGE

Nick Failla, Collected Concepts

TRACK THREE: YOUR

CUSTOM HEADQUARTERS 8:30 - 9:20 a.m.

SELLING DIAMONDS IN THE MODERN WORLD

Grant Mobley, Diamond Producers of America

9:30 - 10:20 a.m.

SKETCH YOUR WAY INTO INCREASED SALES

Matthew Ego, Guild & Facet

10:30 a.m. - 12:20 p.m.

CUSTOM DESIGN–THAT’S WHERE THE MONEY IS BABY!

FRIDAY EXCURSIONS

MAGNIFICENT MILE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE Enjoy a fun-filled day shopping on Chicago’s famous Magnificent Mile! More than 460 stores, as well as incredible restaurants and attractions. *Lunch & restrooms will not be available to guests while traveling to Magnificent Mile.

12:30 - 5:30 p.m.; Meet in lobby 12:30 p.m. $105 per person (Includes round-trip transportation, a variety of snack and nonalcoholic beverages during the commute, 2.5 hours of shopping/dining time.)

Minimum of 13 people, maximum of 36 CHICAGO CITY TOUR This 2-3 hour tour will explore Chicago’s most iconic landmarks: Magnificent Mile, Wrigley Building, Chicago Tribune Building, Water Tower & Pumping Station, Wrigley Field, Navy Pier, and the SkyDeck at Willis Tower.

12:30 - 5:30 p.m.; Meet in lobby 12:30 p.m. $140 per person (Includes round-trip transportation, a variety of snacks and nonalcoholic beverages, and private city tour guide.)

Minimum of 21 people, maximum of 28

David Geller, JewelerProfit

8:30 - 9:20 a.m.

BUZZ SESSION

TO PAY OR NOT TO PAY …

THAT IS THE QUESTION!

Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts

9:30 - 10:20 a.m.

BUZZ SESSION

E-COMMERCE AND OTHER SCARY SALES IDEAS

Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts

10:30 - 11:20 a.m.

BUZZ SESSION

BUILDING AN A+ TEAM

Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts

11:30 a.m. - 12:20 p.m.

BUZZ SESSION

LIKES, FRIENDS, FOLLOWERS, OH MY!

Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts

MONDAY EXCURSIONS

TOPGOLF Topgolf is a game anyone can play! Score points by hitting micro-chipped golf balls at giant dartboard-like targets on an outfield.

Indulge in a buffet-style dinner while you engage in friendly competition against your opponents. *Alcohol will be available for purchase. 5:30 - 9:15 p.m.; Meet in lobby 5:30 p.m. $125 per person (Includes round-trip transportation, a dinner buffet/ variety of nonalcoholic beverages, and three hours of unlimited golf play.)

Minimum of 12 people, maximum of 24

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

Jeweler Profile

R.C. Wahl Jewelers: Family Owned Since 1894

ABOUT A HALF-HOUR SLIGHTLY SOUTH and fully east of this year’s Summer Buying Show in Schaumburg, lies Des Plaines, IL. The town of nearly 60,000 is home to R.C. Wahl Jewelers, a member of RJO since 2016, but a fixture in the town for much, much longer—since 1894.

“The history of Wahl Jewelers is one seamless line of family, quality, and belief in excellence,” says Heather Wahl, a fifth-generation co-owner, along with her parents Bob and Barba Wahl.

The store’s founding began with F.X. Wahl leaving his home country of Germany for America in the late 1880s.

He came to this country with a passion to excel and a knowledge of jewelry passed down to him from his mother. Heather says, “He was followed into the business by his son, F.F. Wahl. He trained F.F. and later his grandson, F.C., in the same exacting techniques he had learned in Germany. F.F. opened Wahl Jewelers in Des Plaines, IL. in 1949. When F.C. took control, he opened a second store, still pursuing the same high standards. He also manufactured fine quality jewelry for other jewelers, as well as for his own store.”

Heather’s father, R.C. (Bob) Wahl, is the son of F.C. Wahl, and he made his first ring at the age of six, under the tutelage of his father. Bob was trained in the same Old World traditions of craftsmanship as his forefathers, and he went to work officially for Wahl Jewelers at the age of 20. By 1965, he was managing one of the stores, and in 1969, Bob and his wife and partner Barba, purchased the store in Des Plaines, from his father. Thus began R.C. Wahl Jewelers.

Heather says her parents have been active in both the jewelry industry and local community. They have been members of the Illinois Jewelers Association (IJA) for 30 years, and Bob is a past president. He was the first person elected to receive the IJA Presidential Award, and he has served on the Jewelers of America Board. Locally, he was a member of United Way and the Des Plaines Chamber of Commerce.

The Wahl family tradition continued with the addition to the staff of their daughter Heather, in 1994. Having chosen business and psychology as her majors at Cornell College, she easily moved into the role of actively learning the many skills involved in managing a jewelry store. She earned her Graduate Gemologist diploma from GIA in 2007 and became an owner in 2016,

becoming the fifth generation of Wahl to work in the family business.

“I’ve used my skills to bring the store into the 21st century,” she says. “Building a website and becoming active in social media has opened the store to new clientele. People who have never experienced our unique brand of quality and customer service are now enjoying our company. But I don’t do it alone. We’ve got an amazing staff, and I talk to my parents everyday about the operation of the store. They are the most amazing sounding boards for new ideas and for supporting me as I evolve the direction of the store.”

For Heather, customer service includes design. “I love sitting down and designing a piece of jewelry for a customer that allows them to express themselves with a gorgeous gemstone. The absolute best experience is recycling a family treasure into something that honors the history of the gems while reflecting the next generation.”

The store’s involvement in RJO offerings has been immediate.

“We joined RJO in the fall of 2016 and have attended each of the six subsequent Buying Shows,” says Heather. “We have strengthened relationships with our vendor partners and had the opportunity to bond with retailers across the country. There is a lot of information shared at Shows. The Next Gen event had an amazing depth of information. While I wish I had attended before our succession plan had already been conceived and implemented, there was still a wealth of knowledge available. The ability to spend a few days at a table of 810 of your peers and brainstorm about marketing, managing, and inventorying a retail store holds something for every store owner.”

Heather also finds RJO’s Facebook page for members quite useful. “I like the immediate response and feedback,” she says. “RJO’s Facebook group allows us to pose a question and get virtually instant suggestions to source a product, gain technical information, or just chat a bit about what is happening at other retailers. We can share our successes and get feedback from others.”

R.C. Wahl Jewelers is located at 1514 Miner Street, Des Plaines, IL. Phone: 847-824-2025 Website: www.wahljewelers.com

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PLAN

NOW FOR OUR NEXT BUYING SHOW!

July 2019 • Schaumburg, IL Future Show Locations

January 2020 • Houston, TX July 2020 • St. Louis, MO

January 2021 • Palm Springs, CA July 2021 • Cincinnati, OH

January 2022 • Birmingham, AL July 2022 • Minneapolis, MN

Next Gen Voices & Views

NextGen Customers As part of an ongoing series, Next Gen Voices & Views asked RJO's future jewelry retailers this:

Your Next Gen peers represent your future customers.

What areas of your store do you think might be most affected

by Next Gen customers (e.g., upgraded payment methods, partnering with socially conscious companies, etc.)?

I think the best way for the next generation of the store to improve the retail industry is convenience and staying relevant. I believe we are in a shift-style market currently, where consumers have everything they need at their fingertips—including jewelry. In order to remind them the instore experience is superior to online shopping, it has to make sense to them. It has to be easy, time efficient, and relatable. Why drive to a store when you can do everything from the click of a button in your pajamas? Why? Because of our customer service and the confident feeling you and your purchase are being taken care of.

You have to be able and willing to accept all forms of payment and communicate with the customer however they prefer. Be active on social media, as well as marketing in general. Bring an experience on the sales floor that keeps the consumer coming back. Set yourself apart from the rest of the retail world. Keep your inventory clean and up to date on trends, while not forgetting the classics. Last, but surely not least, make sure everyone in the store is on the same page and open to the shift. Not settling in with how things have always been, but keeping what works and changing what doesn't.

Jaclyn Iden, Marks Jewelers, Lawrence, KS

We feel customers today have so many options of where to shop, how to shop, how to pay, etc. There are so many ways to get to the same outcome. We feel foot traffic is being most affected by next generation shoppers. In the online world of shopping—where instant gratification is demanded and making a purchase is literally a click away—it is difficult to compete with the brands that are immediately accessible online.

In our store, we strive to provide an environment that is inviting and comfortable for any customer. We want our customers to be able to touch and feel the merchandise, to feel comfortable asking questions, and to walk away feeling connected to the purchase they made and the staff that helped them.

Jann Stewart, White’s Fine Jewelry, Fairmont, WV

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Opening Eyes by Melinda Nolan

Gem Mining and the Lemurs of Madagascar

AS A NATURE LOVER, ANIMAL LOVER, and jewelry store owner, I was recently terribly upset when I read the National Geographic article “How the sapphire trade is driving lemurs toward extinction,” and the related IMAX documentary Island of Lemurs. Both described how illegal gemstone mining is having a huge effect on deforestation in Madagascar, as well as the island’s lemur population, the most threatened group of mammals in the world. While the IMAX movie doesn’t state gemstone mining as a reason for the deforestation, the article definitely ties two and two together.

I’ve learned the average per capita income in Madagascar is $260, which makes it one of the poorest countries in the world. Approximately 70 percent of its population is living below the poverty line, and almost half of its children below five years old are malnourished. The illegal gem mining is part of what is feeding and taking care of the families in this country, so I can see why it’s difficult for the government to get involved in stopping it. While there is little regulation or governing to guard against the illegal mining activities or deforestation, I came across another way I could help.

The Omaha Zoo Foundation has a non-profit entity they support called the Madagascar Biodiversity Project (MBP). The MBP’s goal is working with the island’s communities to help restore and protect Madagascar’s remaining forests and diverse wildlife,

while creating innovative solutions to some of Madagascar’s toughest challenges, so nature and people can thrive together. One part of their mission is reforestation, and since their start in 2010, they have paid local families to plant more than 2.4 million new trees! You can read about the many ways the MBP is helping in Madagascar here. Also, here is an informational letter sent to me from the MBP’s Brittani Robertson, after I inquired about getting a copy of an annual report.

I recently purchased a stone at the Tucson Gem Show for a customer. Its origin was Madagascar, and I now wonder if it was an illegally mined stone. While I’m saddened by my possible contribution to the lemurs’ demise, I also know the purchase may have helped provide for a family. I feel these mixed emotions can be somewhat curbed if I know there is something I can do to help. The MBP is the solution for me.

I think it would be great to have jewelry industry involvement in this cause. I wonder if there is a way we could collect the funds and make donations on behalf of RJO? If not, we—as individual stores—could donate; if we pool together funds we can create a group called something like "Jewelers for the World" to provide donations to specific causes. I would be excited to organize that group if there is interest. If you’d like to donate individually, here’s a link to donate (be sure to designate your funds to the Madagascar Biodiversity Project on the dropdown menu).

Let’s pull together and make a big difference! Even one donation can make a difference, but can you imagine what impact we could have if many of us take action?

Please contact me if you are interested in developing a more formal effort. This is just an idea at the moment, but I would be thrilled to see it grow. *Island of Lemurs is available on most digital platforms, such as iTunes and Amazon Prime.

Melinda Nolan is owner of Roemer Originals in St. Charles, MO. Her email is: Me63301@gmail.com If you have something on your mind and would like to see it appear in a future issue of In The Loupe, please send your thoughts to editor Christopher Green.

One of the lemurs profiled in the documentary Island of Lemurs.

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Custom Designs

COVER STORY

MOST RETAIL JEWELERS have always offered some custom design services to their customers, but there seems to be a trend in which custom is becoming a rising star among stores. A review of social media threads and seminars offered at jewelry conferences shows an increasing appearance of the topic, and— based on some experts in the industry—custom can be a real profit center.

“Custom is the largest money maker in dollar values to a retailer,” says Anish Desai, President and CEO of Star Gems. “The notion that custom is more expensive is a myth. Any product over $800 in custom is on par, more or less, with in-stock product offerings in the custom category. Often jewelers will pay the same price as a stock piece, even though it was made custom.”

Money isn’t the only reason Desai promotes custom design for the independent retail jeweler. In a market where competitors are online, the importance of establishing and extending a connection with customers is important. According to Desai, “A bond develops when creating a custom piece over a 3-4 week (or longer) period. Once a project has started, the interaction it builds with the customer can last a lifetime, if nurtured by the retailer.”

does this give the client an advantage by having a preliminary visual of the final product before going to the extent of CAD or a final product, it also gives the store and the manufacturer a sense of what is being created. This will help from making multiple revisions and the jeweler losing the customer overall, as multiple revisions could involve a longer time and added costs.”

The Importance of Custom Design

So where does custom design stand in terms of sales generation for retailers?

“The percentage of sales that come from custom design is about 42%,” says Lewis Pacheco of Pacheco’s Jewelry in Taunton, MA. “Now that’s in dollars and not in units; with units it’s a little bit less, more in the range of about 20%. We have seen approximately a 5% increase in custom work over the last five years, and I believe this trend will continue.”

“Our custom work is definitely increasing,” agrees Angie Becker of Becker Jewelers in Highland, IL, and Breese, IL. “A rough estimate of our percentage of custom work is

This communication is not only important in the long term, but also for the custom design project itself.

Says Prashant Mehta, President of Diamond Expressions, “Most custom designs fail due to improper communication between the client, the store, and the manufacturer. The most important thing for a retail store to focus on is properly communicating with the end user, in order to obtain as much information as possible. Someone in the store should sketch the preliminary idea with the customer to give the manufacturer a clearer image on what exactly is desired when the process comes to an end. Not only

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Image courtesy of Matthew Ego

approximately 20-25%. Often clients like the features of several of our rings, and we have them incorporated into one ring. Other times they come in with inherited stones or rings they are tired of, and we create something new from scratch. Or a guy comes in with a picture on his phone of the engagement ring she likes. We try to show them similar things, but sometimes they only want exactly what the pictures look like.”

Others have a broader view of where custom falls in their sales categories.

“As far as a percentage of custom designs in regards to overall sales is a hard question to answer accurately,” says Darwin Wilder of Gregory Jewelers in Morganton, NC. “Bridal is about 98% customized from one degree to another. Either a different size stone for the center or a completely different shape with halos, etc. Then we have customers that want to remount their stones into a new setting. That is approximately 10% of our business, but falls into our repair department, since all major stones are set at our store.”

“As far as noticing an increase? Definitely ‘Yes,’” Wilder continues. “In the last two years it has become necessary to offer to customize almost anything we have to sell, in order to accommodate today’s customers. They bring in their phones and show us a picture of what they are looking for, and either we have it, can get it, or can make it. If not, they are going down the street to the next guy. Most will not even look to see if we have anything close in stock. During the first four months of the new year, more sales were from special orders and custom design than what we had in our inventory, worth over one million dollars. Our showcases have become a starting point to show ideas that they want to alter, to personalize it to them.”

A final reason for considering increasing attention on custom work is offered by David Geller, Director of JewelerProfit. He says, ”Custom has a 70-80% closing ratio, no matter what you charge. Like repairs, custom work is trust sensitive as much as price sensitive.”

Geller will be presenting two seminars at the RJO Summer Buying Show in Schaumburg: Custom Design— That’s Where the Money is Baby! and Selling and Pricing Repairs for Maximum Profits and Ease.

For stores looking to increase their custom work, Desai has several ideas.

“Stores should hang a sign that says “Let’s Customize It” in all important showcase spaces,” he says. “They also should display large signage in the store while customers are shopping or waiting to be helped.

Create a ‘Look Book’ of happy customers with their

completed projects, and post it on your website and on social media.

These are all effective branding methods. A next step, of course, is to evolve to ’luxury custom,’ allowing higher dollar spending by customers, as well creating unique custom pieces.”

“Another secret of successful custom design jewelers is training, training, and ... more training," Desai continues, “Unlike regular product sales from stock inventory, custom design sales require associates to be trained to listen and guide the customers on how they can bring their vision to life. If a retailer is thinking of making custom design a dominant category, the owner or a trained professional sales associate will need to constantly evaluate and learn from the past experience of handling the project. At Star Gems we do offer important training free to our partner retailers on how to handle custom design and how to set expectations upfront with the customers.”

Matthew Ego, Founder and CEO of Guild & Facet, has his own ideas about how stores can increase their custom work. Ego will be presenting the seminar Sketch Your Way to Increased Sales at the RJO Summer Buying Show.

“I think retailers need to do a better job leading with selling a custom ring,” says Ego. “I know that every jeweler in America wants to sell their inventory and what they have in their showcase, but … leading with custom jewelry allows you to separate yourself from others (the internet, mall retailers, the majors, etc.). The best way to close that diamond sale is by offering a customdesigned engagement ring at no additional cost.”

Ego agrees with Desai on the use of social media: “Make sure you take before and after shots. They’re great on social media, as well as the jeweler’s own website.”

Geller also finds the more personal approach is effective as well.

“To increase custom work,” he says, “just do a great job, have patience with the customer, and deliver on time.

There is a secret to custom success, and it is to then send all custom customers a handwritten thank you note.”

The Process of Custom Design The idea that art talent is required to start the custom design process is not really embraced by the experts.

“Drawing skills are not important at all,” says Ego. “We don’t expect retail sales people to be good at drawing.

With todays digital tools—like our cell phones and the internet—inspiration is everywhere.“

FAMILY. DIVIDEND. SUPPORT. BUYING POWER.

Desai agrees: “Any sketch is a good start,” he says.

“It is the foundation of communicating the consumer’s desire to the store of what the piece signifies, as well as the story of what the customer wants. A good understanding in a rough sketch is like pouring a foundation to the house. The stronger the foundation, the better the results.”

“We start with sketching what the customer wants and taking pictures of any features on existing merchandise that they would like to incorporate,” says Becker. “If the customer has stones, we measure and weigh them. Then we input the details and send the project out for quotes. After receiving quotes, we show the customer images of what the final product looks like, for their approval. If they want to proceed, we require a deposit at that time.”

This is the same process followed by Wilder: “Our approval process is simple. We get a CAD design, to show the customer what their item will look like, and we allow them to make any changes at that time.

Once approved we usually require at least half down—depending on the piece—and the balance due upon delivery. I only have had one customer that had to back out due to unforeseen circumstances.”

Pacheco follows a similar process as the others, but seeks a deposit a bit sooner in the process.

“Our approval process with customers for creating a custom design usually starts with a consultation,” he says. “After we agree on the design, the customer usually provides a 50% deposit, or instead, in some cases, the customer will leave their diamonds that are going to be reset, with the understanding that once the design is agreed-upon, there are no refunds available.”

Diamond Expressions’ Mehta says, “Custom CAD design presents jewelers with a great opportunity to involve the customer and help them create a personally designed ring that is unique to their tastes.”

“It allows a client to use different stones they may have inherited or are from previously made pieces that are no longer the customer’s favorites,” he continues. “Conveying this message to the end consumer can help build a strong relation with the client, since the transaction becomes more personal.

By creating a great experience for customers with their involvement in the process—from start to finish—the jeweler will be adding profits, not only in the one transaction, but for any future transactions that may come due to the pleasant experience.”

Custom Hatch is RJO’s portal for retailers to get multiple quotes on their custom jobs from RJO vendors. The Custom Hatch system was launched at last year’s Summer Buying Show in Minneapolis, and already it has become an important tool for many retailers and vendors.

“To date, Custom Hatch has received several hundred requests,” says Andrew Boundy of VRB Internet Solutions, Custom Hatch’s developer. “Still the system is designed to handle many-times the current user volume.”

We asked some Custom Hatch users whether they would recommend the service to their fellow RJO members:

I would definitely recommend Custom Hatch services. It has allowed us to increase our profit margins while also making pieces that I believe we could not have made before. The process is easy and simple, and you get multiple bids on every piece.

We have used several different vendors, and all of them have done a great job.

— Lew Pacheco Pacheco’s Jewelry in Taunton, MA Yes, I would recommend Custom Hatch. It gives us reassurance that we are providing the best value to our customers by getting multiple bids at one time and comparing apples to apples.

Sometimes the prices vary greatly among the vendors; I’m not sure why that is. What is really important to us is receiving an image of what the item will look like, as well as measurements.

Some vendors do not send images; I know it has to be costly to do this, but it is a huge plus for us in closing the sale.

— Angie Becker Becker Jewelers in Highland, IL, and Breese, IL

I would recommend the Custom Hatch program to the other RJO jewelers to try and see if it works for them. It’s free to try, so they have nothing to lose. Since we started with Custom Hatch, I have found some companies that were able to deliver at a more affordable option, and that has helped to close more sales. The time to get a list of quotes back takes about a week, with some getting back to us in a couple of days. If time is not as important, then the savings are there.

— Darwin Wilder Gregory Jewelers in Morganton, NC

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MILESTONES

Karla Denby, of Karla's Jewelers in Carlinville, IL, passed away on March 16. She was 81. Karla retired in 2017.

Terry Leary, of Smith Jewelry in Brookhaven, MS, died on May 21. He was 69.

Our thoughts go out to the families.

CALENDAR July 2019

August 2019

4 Fourth of July—RJO Office is closed

9 All payments must be received in RJO Office

10 All payments must be received in RJO Office

23 All invoices must be received in RJO Office

23 All invoices must be received in RJO Office

26-29 RJO Summer Celebration Buying Show in Schaumburg

NEW MEMBERS ART Jewelers David Meadows Woodstock, GA

Referred by Doug Meadows, David Douglas, Diamonds & Fine Jewelry, Marietta, GA

Bella Jule Fine Jewelry Mike & Kim Sherwin Paso Robles, CA

CMK Jewelers and Repair Charles Mark Kelly Macomb, IL Leslie Jewelry Brian Leslie Fort Lupton, CO

Martinique Jewelers Alan, Jack, & Ike Tobias New York, NY

Skatell’s Jewelers Beth Skatell Owens Spartanburg, SC

Referred by Prashant Mehta, Diamond Expressions, New York, NY

Yates & Co Jewelers Mechelle & Ron Yates Modesto, CA

Referred by Morris Esses, Malsons Jewelers, Brooklyn, NY

Referred by Greg Greffin, 24 Karat Rose, Wayzata, MN

Thank you to the jewelers referring new members to our group. These jewelers will receive a $1,000 finder’s fee for their referral, payable after a new member has been in good standing for at least six months.

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