Protecting the Pearl: Revealing Environmental Vulnerability

Pearls have been a timeless accessory adding elegance and style to many looks throughout the decades. From John Steinbeck’s “The Pearl” (1947) to Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) to Haley Lu Richardson at the Screen Actors Guild Awards (2023), we see the sustainability and resilience of pearls in arts with fashion and literature. Does this trend continue in production and harvesting? The answer may be more complex than you might think.

As people across the world become more aware of the impacts of their actions, we are seeing improvements in sustainability, eco-friendly packaging, and efforts to protect our planet. While our oceans are one of the more vulnerable ecosystems, we continue to benefit greatly from them. Iconic jewelry companies such as Tiffany & Co. have invested funding into research about the sustainable harvesting of pearls.

There are two different types of pearls that are used for commercial grade products. Mussels yield freshwater pearls, and clams yield saltwater pearls. Saltwater pearls are much more coveted, but the standards in judging desirability vary based on luster and shape. Sustainably raised clams can live eight to ten years in age and produce up to three pearls in their lifetime. Each saltwater pearl can take two to five years to fully develop.

Originally, pearls were highly valued, and thus, highly sought after. Overfishing reduced the oyster population and there was a decrease in the pearl trade as the supply was depleted. With less than 1% chance of natural production, vendors rely on farmed pearls.

Sustainability efforts to protect saltwater pearls have increased. With these efforts pearl farmers work to put clams in ideal conditions to filter for pearls. Oysters have many benefits and can even help to filter polluted water, but over polluted water impacts farmers’ bottom lines and oysters’ health. The more investment that farmers put into the health of their clams, the higher quality pearls they will yield because optimum growing conditions are encouraged. These farms can benefit oceanic ecosystems as well. Fishing is generally prohibited around oyster farms, which provides sanctuary for fish. Fish can feed off of the debris on oyster shells helping to maintain cleanliness in a symbiotic relationship.

A major shift in pearl production took place when pearl producers focused on removing a clam or mussel’s pearl without harming them. Specialized knives help pearl farmers to obtain the pearl without harming the oyster, as opposed to forcing the oyster open. By focusing on careful extraction, clams and mussels can continue to produce gemstones that add iconic touches to looks for every occasion.

While pearl harvesting has improved, human activity continues to have an impact. Natural weather events can damage pearl farms, and we see an uptick in natural disasters with the impacts of climate change becoming more apparent. Additionally, plastic pollution in the ocean reduces the quality of water and lessens the quality of pearls. There are many qualifications necessary to ensure sustainable pearl farming. Creating pearls can be harmful to the oysters, and disease can wipe out a dense oyster population similar to any farming practice.

The bottom line is, like most products on the market, if done correctly, saltwater oyster farming can be both beneficial for humans and reduce the harm caused to the environment. This is not to say that you should throw out your pearls if you don’t know how or where they were sourced. There are many affordable ways to look for pearls and support sustainable practices, one of the major aspects of sustainability is using what we already have. Go through your family’s belongings, thrift, and upcycle! It doesn’t take a budget to be resourceful, and it doesn’t take harming ecosystems for pearls to continue to shine as a part of the fashion industry.

Julia Belian

Aspen Pasikov

Aidan Jones

Edwin McArthur

Amelie Daberkow

Mia DiNorcia

Maya Nissenbaum

Anna Longval

Kyle Kim

Evan Wang

Cristian Abood

Gia Boudreau

Tylyn King

Matthew Batchelder

Garrett Botsch

Ashlyn Lee

Anya Keena

Abigail Wiegmann

Grace Thorburn

Sam Schechterman

Kohanna McCrary

Hallie Hannum

Kenzie Hale

Isaac Saegesser

Rhett Kaya