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CONTENTS ISSUE 23.4

FEATURES, OVERLAND & TRAILS 6 IN THE FACE OF SOUTHERN RUSSIA 20 TRAIL TIME IN MADOC, ONTARIO 32 RUNNING THE OTTAWA VALLEY

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SHAWN RUMBOLT

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OVERLAND

WORDS BY ROBB PRITCHARD

Перед лицом юга России ,

(In the Face of Southern Russia) Overlanding through the Caucasus Mountains is not for the faint of heart, but it’s an experience that will be cherished.

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VASILY NEREJNOY

Top of the World in Russia: sunrise over the clouds.

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Rocky Tractor Fields and Dealing with the Devil The first road out from our base at the luxurious Hotel Dahovskaya Sloboda led up the side of a gravel quarry with large, overloaded trucks hurtling towards the group. For a few minutes, I began to wonder if the Russian idea of ‘soft roading’ was a bit too soft. Nope.

In the lead car was Gennady and he turned down an unmarked trail into a forest and I suddenly found myself fumbling for the 4L button as the UAZ slewed around in the muddy ruts.

Some detours around deep water-filled holes forced us to slide around inches from trees, having great fun furiously turning the wheel fully one way and then to the other. But it wasn’t just playing in the mud for the sake of it. After a few kilometres, the group came out on a ridge of karst outcrop called the Devil’s Finger.

Our beautiful UAZs parked high on the side of a ledge, the landscape below, stretching off to distant snow-capped peaks, carpeted with an almost unbroken vista of trees, gently changing to all shades of rust in the early autumn light. It looked like what our distant ancestors would have seen as they stepped out of their caves. The landscape is not quite an untamed wilderness with crisscrossing logging trails and fishermen’s routes.

This region of Southern Adygea was where we

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ROBB PRITCHARD

The trails could get very technical and a spotter was often needed for support.

Some trails may not be suitable for those who suffer from vertigo.

VASILY NEREJNOY

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here’s almost nothing better than enjoying weekends overlanding or visiting a local ORV park to spend some time on rural roads and trails. So imagine how great it could be to travel a little farther afield and take an off-roading holiday in a foreign country!

But exploring a little further afield presents some geographical limitations since it may take a few days or longer to get to your destination before you even begin hitting the trails.

This is where fly-drive companies come in.

After working with a large trans-Asian expedition company for nearly 20 years, Aljona Dudashili and her husband Andrei decided to limit their travels and focus more on familyand friend-oriented off-roading holiday tours in their home country of Russia. The couple, who have amassed years of experience organizing high-end expeditions for clients such as Volkswagen and Land Rover, arranged an overland trip through the stunning Caucasus Mountains in Southern Russia for some European clients. When they extended an invitation to me, it took all about a mere second to graciously accept.

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Alyssa’s

When she isn’t pulling wheelies on her dirt bike or performing inverted 360s on her wakeboard, Alyssa Roach can be found rock crawling the Trinity Alps, with Mt. Shasta looming in the background at over 14,000 feet. The girl’s got moxy, and thanks to her sweet 2014 JKU and a little help from Rugged Ridge, she’s definitely Queen of the Hill—prepared to crawl up and over justabout anything.

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Choosing Tough Lines, Unpredictable Bridges and the Highest Peak in Europe Making it through a good off-road route is all about challenges and rewards. Once over the river, we parked up on the pebble shore of the opposite bank, where there was – surprisingly – a nice restaurant. We dined on shashliks and tea made from local herbs – a combination that would become a theme of the trip.

My favourite day of the week was in the little village of Arkhyz. Despite being in a valley surrounded by snow-capped peaks it wasn’t cold, yet the cafés had stoves burning so the area had a lovely pervading aroma of wood smoke.

Getting to the off-road trail and into the mountains was via a dodgy-looking wooden bridge or a rather deep river crossing. So we did both, and either way wasn’t easy. It wasn't long before we needed 4Low and had to pick a line up a very rough hill. We realized why it was in such bad condition when a massive KAMAZ logging truck came sliding around the corner at what seemed like Dakar speed.

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ROBB PRITCHARD

People leaving the rural regions for the cities means there are plenty of ruins to explore.

ROBB PRITCHARD

were going to spend a week exploring.

A little later back down in the valley, looking for a way to cross the wide and lazy river, our track took us through a field. It didn’t seem too much at first, but it was primarily for tractors so all of the rocks had to be negotiated very carefully as we all inched along in 2nd low.

To my dismay, my axle beached an unsighted rock in the long grass. The horrible grinding sound it made to get off was terrible, but the UAZ is a tough little machine designed for the rigours of the Russian terrain.

The setting sun through the tall grass made for some great photos but then in the falling darkness, there was a broken bridge we had to cross.

Everyone needed a spotter to safely go over smashed pieces of concrete that were all that was left of the bridge. Gennady chose a strange angle for me to ease over. Not knowing what was under the wheels was quite unnerving and it was at that precise moment that an oak tree decided to drop a few acorns onto the roof. The noise sounded just like something in the transmission snapping, but Gennady knew what he was doing.

It didn’t take too long to work out what his hand signals meant and everyone made it over. It’s important to point out that this is no trip for beginners - a good understanding of what a 4x4 can do is needed to tackle a rugged region like this.

Impossibly remote valleys somewhere near the Abkhazian border.

The Region

ROBB PRITCHARD

The locals say Adygea is Caucasusculture first, and not Russian. The countryside is so underdeveloped it’s like going back in time a few hundred years when villages in Europe were made up of drover communities and subsistence farmers.

Going higher into the mountains is another fantastic experience where there’s almost no evidence of human activity. Off-roading through endless oak forests is special too - especially in the fall when the colours of the leaves are simply gorgeous. The accommodations are plush in most places and utter luxury in others – like the Hotel Dahovskaya Sloboda where we spent the first night on our trip.

Don’t worry - the guides will drive over first!

The Western Caucasus Mountains in the rugged foothills of Europe’s highest peak made for one of the most stunning places for green-laning. But as rough as some of the trails were and as inclement as the mountain weather can be, there will always be a nice hotel with a soft bed waiting.

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With muddy pools, side slopes, choosing lines between rocks and over deep ruts, and even a 100 m (328 ft) section that went up the river, the 6 km (3.7 mi) route made this run seem like a mini-expedition.

For normal 4x4s, the trail ends at the beginning of a hiking route and into the river

around a huge granite boulder. Gennady spotted me around some of the larger rocks and we tried to get as close to the glacier as possible. But with snow lying in deep drifts, we couldn’t get much further, so we turned around and had a picnic nearby with the most breathtaking scenery. Gennady struck up a

conversation with a local, weathered-faced shepherd who was looking after his herd of cattle. With his gravelly voice, hardened by a good half-century of chain-smoking, he called out commands to his shaggy, vicious-looking dog, but still posed for a photo. It was an incredible place to visit but I

ROBB PRITCHARD

Sampling the local delicacies like Shashlik. It was very fresh - when we drove in the goat was still alive.

The local guides know what they’re doing.

A factory standard UAZ Patriot is certainly not a Land Cruiser, but it’s still a very capable Russianmade 4x4. Once you get used to the rather loose steering, the widespread gears and noticeable lack of torque, it’s fine to drive.

The overall experience is quite similar to a Land Rover 90.

What’s handy is 4L is just a push of a button away to manage all of the tough stuff, which on A/T tires was enough to handle everything on this tour.

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ROBB PRITCHARD

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ROBB PRITCHARD

An amazing place for a picnic.

It’s approximately 800 m (2,624 ft) higher than even Mont Blanc and the conditions were very cold. But I warmed up plenty enough later that night in a town called Kislovodsk at a traditional Russian banya.

The last evening of the tour was in a plush restaurant with tea served from a large copper

pot and plates piled high with barbecued meat, local cheeses and meat pies. At the end of the trip, I was in need of a shave and some sleep, but my mind was full of wonderful impressions and memories. It might have only been a recreational tour but it was a real trip to remember.

ROBB PRITCHARD

couldn’t imagine what a harsh life it must be to live and work in the area.

Once back down the trail, a wooden bridge over the fast-flowing river sagged as we inched across and on the other side, we found a local who made some delicious lamb shashliks for us.

Drinking tea with herbs picked from the valley while sitting in the BBQ smoke of your own dinner is a great way to work up your appetite.

The biggest mountain in the Caucasus, and in all of Europe, is the 5,642 m (18,511 ft) Mt. Elbrus, which is actually a long-dormant volcano. The gravel road took us along some barren country with just a few forsaken-looking farmers’ villages, but Gennady knew which random tracks led over the hills to dramatic viewpoints. Through a stunning 100 m (328 ft) deep gorge, the track led up through deeper and deeper drifts of snow and fallen rocks until we drove our way up to another rickety bridge where we came across a perfect tarmac road.

Apparently, it was made so the governor of the region could drive to his country house on the side of the mountain in comfort. “Elbrus is right there,” a member of the group said, pointing ahead, yet the autumn haze made the horizon blank. As we got closer, I could just make out something shining in the sky. I couldn’t work out what it was, but a photo with a filter on the lens showed what I couldn’t see; it was the sun’s reflection on the wind-polished glacier that sits on the top.

When we were finally close enough to see the majestic peak, it was an incredible sight.

Winter comes quickly in Russia.

Even in early September some of the high passes are closed.

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I Pure BRILLIANCE WORDS AND PHOTOS BY PERRY MACK

from Lightforce A no-compromise hybrid driving light from Down Under.

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stopped at the top of a rise and noticed the beam from my vehicle pierced through the darkness, clearly illuminating a white house on the opposite slope. I’m pretty sure they didn’t appreciate having their windows lit up, even if I was half a kilometre away.

An off-road rig that also functions as a daily driver is often a vehicle of compromises.

What makes the rig better off-road often detracts from on-road performance. It was great to finally find an accessory that was built to be great for both.

The HTX2 from Lightforce is a very unique 230 mm (9”) round headlight. Twenty domeless Lumileds Luxeon ZES light-emitting-diodes (LEDs) surround a Philips D1S WhiteVision Xenon high-intensity-discharge (HID) bulb. We usually see comparisons between the two styles of bulbs – not integra-

A ring of 80W LEDs surrounds the laser-like 50W HID providing a colour temperature of 5000K with a rated life of 50,000 hours.

The aluminum housing is great at heat dispersion and provides easy access to the HID in the event it has to be replaced.

tion. The ring of LEDs provides a bright triple road-width pattern of light for driving off-road at slower speeds than the highway, while the HID punches forward through the darkness in a road-width beam for highway driving. It literally offers the best of both worlds.

As you may have guessed from the name, this is the second iteration of the HTX. While the initial HTX was good, it has been improved. The lights now have a fully integrated waterproof plug, which uses the Genuine Gore® waterproof membrane valve and mechanical seal to achieve an IP68 and IP69K level. This means the HTX2 is dustproof and fully submersible up to 1.5 m (5 ft) for up to 30 minutes. Lightforce says the HTX2 can comfortably operate between -40°C to 63°C (145 F°), which means it can meet the demands of the average winter temperature in Tuktoyaktuk, NWT above the Arctic Circle and the maximum summer temps in Death Valley, CA. We mounted the lights on the front of our Wrangler JKU and went for a spin, or three.

While you can run the LEDs or HID separately, or both simultaneously, they cannot be used when there is oncoming traffic as they are simply too powerful.

We found the LED shines bright with a great dispersion beam illuminating the road ahead as though it were daylight and the colours were accurate. The HID is insane. In full darkness, it provides a piercing narrow beam that will illuminate everything in your path and we can’t imagine a scenario where a wheeling rig could overdrive these lights. The HID is backed by a 170° reflector and casts a wide dispersion of light to the sides. When you use the LED and HID in a combo you get it all – a wide flood to the sides, solid fill immediately down the road, and penetrating illumination into the distance.

The HTX2 was noticeably effective at dusk, which we find the most challenging time of day for driving. The eyes’ iris stays small because of the light sky but this means it doesn’t let enough light in to see the dark road clearly.

Add in the fact that drivers (and their eyes) are typically fatigued at the end of the day and there is an increased risk to safety. With a bright, colour-accurate driving light your eyes can relax and see it all.

The mount for these lights allows you to adjust the light vertically and it can be mounted to your light bar with one to three bolts. If you use the single centre bolt, you can adjust the horizontal angles to your own preferences. During our tests, we set up the lights to shine parallel, however, you may want to angle the beams a couple of degrees

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apart for a wider illumination at all times.

When you’re happy with the beam pattern on your rig, you can then add the second and third bolts for more stability.

The lights ship with an impact-resistant, clear, polycarbonate spot lens that produces the beam pattern you see in the photos. There is also an optional clear combo pattern lens available similar to one we used while testing the Lightforce Genesis driving lights (see 4WD Volume 23 Number 3). This combo lens produced a fantastic, all-around blend of spot and flood. We imagine it would be a great lens for the HTX2 as well.

Another option for the 12V HTX2 is a topmount bracket (called the Extreme Top Stay Bracket), if your bull bar or light bar mount allows an upper point of stabilization. We experienced some vibration while driving offroad and this would certainly eliminate it. The 24V lights come standard with this feature.

There are a couple of minor cons amidst the myriad of pros to these lights. We found the HID takes about four to five seconds to warm up and achieve their maximum brilliance.

When driving down a highway with interspersed oncoming traffic, they don’t function on/off as quickly as your traditional high beams. The second con is that the flood pattern of the LEDs causes some glare as you pass street signs (should you pass any street signs).

In our opinion and based on our trials, the HTX2 are the best accessory lights on the market in terms of durability, performance, and clarity that we’ve ever tested for rural and off-road driving, MSRP: HTX2 Twin Pack: $1,300 USD Three-year warranty

TOP: The LEDs provide a bright, road-width line of sight lighting the RV, which is 100 m (330 ft) away.

MIDDLE: The HID illuminates sharply to the sides and stabs through the night to the hill 140 m (460 ft) away with plenty of power to spare.

BOTTOM: Using the LED and HID in combination provides a staggering swath of light for the safest nighttime driving experience any off-roader could hope for.

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TRAIL WORDS AND PHOTOS BY QUINTON NEUFELDT

TRAIL TIME! This wheeling trip near Madoc, ON, gave the group some unexpected, off-road surprises.

T

his past spring, with a sudden hike in the temperatures and no plans on my radar due to COVID-19-related closures until Easter Sunday, it was the perfect time to plan an early-season day trip running the trails in the Hastings County area just north of Madoc, ON. I reached out to some of my wheeling friends, John and Simon, and they were all in. Simon had done a lot of work to his Jeep WJ over the winter, installing and repainting some new body panels (after various 'incidents'), and even completed an engine swap.

The latter was a good choice as the previous engine never ran the same after getting water-logged last season!

My 1986 Jeep CJ7 wasn’t used very much during the winter but I always check the front hubs as well as the linkages and U-joints

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to ensure they are properly greased. This is especially important considering a lot of our wheeling involves going through water. As I expected, they were good to go.

On the day of the trip, I packed up my recovery gear, some tools and spare parts, and then hit the road to meet Simon and John who were running in the WJ. The forecast called for cooler, breezy conditions and once we were in the powerline area, we encountered a group of ATVers also enjoying a much-needed escape outdoors. It’s not uncommon to see ATVs, various 4WD vehicles as well as hikers and other outdoor enthusiasts enjoying the area.

The graded-gravel access road snakes around a number of hills, lakes, and bogs.

The general route leads along the powerline towers while some trails go in different

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directions, including to the Lingham Lake Conservation Area. The hills were bare rock and provided a chance to practise our rock crawling techniques without worrying about running into trees or getting stuck in the mud as we encounter on other wheeling trails.

Simon’s WJ was working well and his aired-down, 35” Deep Digger’s were providing excellent grip on the rocks. Once at the top of the hill, we stopped to get out to enjoy the view. Simon had brought along his drone so he practised his technique. We looked at the various ledges and rock slabs before deciding to try a few maneuvers on the rocks.

After Simon was feeling pretty confident in his WJ’s ability, we slowly proceeded down a near-vertical face. When Simon was descending, he needed a sharp punch of the gas once the front tires contacted the flat

The authors’ CJ7 with Simon’s WJ. The trails in the area always provide good, wheeling fun.

Simon’s WJ on a jack after hearing a loud ‘bang’ during a steep descent.

slab to prevent an end-over or side-slide.

With a quick bump, his WJ bounced a little but he made it look easy! There had been a loud metallic bang at the point of contact.

However, after a quick visual inspection, he didn’t see any damage.

All the excitement made us hungry so we decided to stop at a gravel plateau for lunch.

After taking a short walk to take some photos of the area, I returned to see Simon’s WJ up on a Hi-Lift Jack with John underneath it.

The loud bang Simon experienced damaged the upper link arm, which was now partially torn away from the subframe. As a result, the axle and tire were contacting the spring on the passenger side. Following some back and forth discussions on what to do, we decided to adjust the arm back enough to get the tire back to its proper location. The vehicle was

Simon drove a little more cautiously after the ‘incident.’ https://www.youtube.com/c/4WDMagazine Volume 23/4

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still driveable, although it was no longer a good idea to push it to the limit since it could tear off further and cause even more damage.

My CJ7 was working great. It easily climbed all the hills and maneuvered over obstacles without any issues. The 35” BFG M/T’s were also gripping the granite-exposed slabs well.

But after going through a deep water area, our tires were packed with mud, making it impossible to get the traction we needed. So, I hooked up a strap to the rear shackle point of the CJ7 and brought it in the cab with me to have it available to toss out the window to John. This way, if I got stuck or couldn’t make it, John and Simon could pull me back without having to jump in the water. For whatever reason, I was able to drive right through.

But I proceeded up the following hill and got out to take a selfie before coming back down the other side. Simon decided not to try it with the condition of his front link. However, with the day marching on, it was time to leave the area. Yet, we enjoyed the opportunity to test our rigs on the rocks and admire the scenic view one more time.

Once out on the side road, we stopped to repack our gear and air-up the tires before going back on the highway. We stopped in Madoc for a hot drink at the local Tim Horton’s to recall the day’s adventures before heading home. See you next time!

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Lunch is always a great part of a day on the trails.

This area is popular among all kinds of wheeling enthusiasts.

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OFF-ROAD ESSENTIALS

Omix-ADA

A variety of racks are available to meet many needs – and for many types of rigs. Here, the rack from Rugged Ridge for the Jeep JLU.

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY MERCEDES LILIENTHAL

Roof Rack Readiness Choose the Right Rack for Your Off-Road Rig Y

ou have the perfect adventure vehicle, you have your camp gear ready and you have grand expectations for remote travel, but where do you store all of your ‘stuff?’ You’re ready to load your rig but your 4x4 doesn’t have the capability or ideal space to properly haul it.

If you constantly bring along firewood, carry fuel externally, and load up with other cumbersome off-road essentials, buying the right roof rack for your 4x4 will always ensure that you have the extra storage – and it will even give your vehicle a more rugged, customized profile. There’s a variety of aftermarket roof rack platforms and roof baskets available, and we’ll take a look at both styles.

Roof Baskets In the event you consistently use your vehicle’s roof to stow odd-sized cargo like duffle bags,

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Pelican storage cases, coolers, to name a few bulky items, owning a roof rack with sides, which is referred to as a roof basket, may be just what you need. Aftermarket companies including Rugged Ridge, BajaRack, Yakima, and Inno are viable options to bring along all of your essentials.

What makes these a popular option is the fact that they are designed with vertical sides, typically within a height of 8 to 15 cm (3 to 6 in). Simply ratchet-strap or bungee-cord your cargo around your basket’s base rack or the sides until it’s secure and you’re ready to roll.

Like the BajaRack roof basket on our Delica 4x4 van or the Inno rack on our Mitsubishi Pajero, Roof baskets allow for easy transport of cargo, no matter if there are items permanently affixed to it or loaded up for a quick run across town. Typically these racks are made from

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powder-coated steel, although lighter-weight aluminum is also available, and come in a wide array of sizes or styles to suit your rig and storage needs.

Most are also fixed units, which mean they are welded or bolted together to create a onepiece design, while the raised sides are often permanently attached; there’s no taking them off if you’re trying to maneuver through tight spaces. What’s also great about roof baskets is they can be customized by affixing various cargo-mounting systems like a dual jerry can holder, an awning mount, or a spare tire rack (tip: the more you load on any type of rack, the worse your fuel economy could be) Roof baskets can also ideally mount to factory or aftermarket cross-bars or can be affixed to your vehicle’s sides if it has OE side rails, a gutter mount, or fixed points.

Platform Racks If you want to keep the profile of your vehicle low and customize it with a sleek, modern look, then a platform rack may do the trick.

Platform roof racks, like those made by Rhino-Rack, ARB, and Front Runner are essentially flat racks—a platform without sides.

They are either welded or bolted together and one appealing benefit is they can reduce wind noise and drag at highway speeds.

Roof platform racks are usually made from weight-saving aluminum or rugged steel, which is heavier in weight but denser and harder than its lighter-weight counterpart.

They also incorporate various in-rack tie-down systems to slide in eyelets or other hard-mount holders for a variety of cargo-carrying systems.

We have a DMOS shovel mount and MAXTRAX holder on our Mitsubishi Pajero’s Rhino-Rack Pioneer platform unit that performs great during every trip.

While baskets typically don’t have track-type systems to strap cargo down, many platform racks do. However, the lack of rack sides could pose problems of cargo loss if gear isn’t tied down correctly. In other words, the lack of vertical rack sides could potentially allow for something to slide off the rack more easily than a roof basket. To avoid losing gear at highway speeds, along the trail, or on rural roads, many platform rack manufacturers offer vertical rack sides or corners in the event you need them.

Like roof baskets, platform racks for 4x4 vehicles can mount to factory or aftermarket cross-bars or could affix to your vehicle’s factory side rails or gutter mounts. Each manufacturer has a different mounting system and it’s important to ensure that it’s the right size, has the right mounting system for your vehicle, and that it will meet your needs.

The Mitsubishi Delica Star Wagon with BajaRack roof basket.

A good rack is invaluable and can haul a lot of gear – from extra fuel to spare tires.

Omix-ADA

Racks also free up valuable interior space, especially for longer trips.

Side Rails and Crossbars Most 4x4’s come ready to mount a roof rack.

From factory side rails and side rail/crossbar combos to roof baskets and platform racks, they all can easily be mounted to a plethora of rigs. You just need to initially decide which type of rack to purchase by determining the roof rack “feet” on your vehicle to properly mount it.

In the event your vehicle doesn’t have factory side rails or side rail/crossbar setups, certain manufacturers offer retrofit fit kits that can mount aftermarket crossbars directly onto your vehicle’s roof via OE fixed points. Affixed with bolts that mount directly into a vehicle’s roof via factory-created receivers, fixed-point roof rack fit kits can accommodate most aftermarket crossbars and roof racks.

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Both platform and basket style racks on two Pajeros.

However, if you own an older vehicle like our Jeep Cherokee or Delica van, side-mounted rain gutter rails may be your only option to load up extra gear on a roof rack. These consist of small, J-shaped channels that are mounted to both sides of a vehicle’s roof, which channel rain away from the vehicle’s windows. They also offer the opportunity to use clamp-style roof rack fit kits that mount directly to them, thus allowing the rest of the roof rack system to be put in place.

For vehicles that have a factory option to mount a roof basket or platform rack, be sure to check your owner’s manual to determine the weight rating that the vehicle’s roof can handle. This will dictate how much cargo you can carry on the roof safely (remember to always include the rack system in the total weight). You should never exceed the static or rolling weight limits of your vehicle’s roof.

Ready For Adventure Roof rack manufacturers offer either welded or bolt-together units. Some rack models may include both methods of construction.

As most are powder coated with a heavy-duty coating, less expensive options could be simply painted (but check the specs carefully before ordering).

Like those from Rugged Ridge, several accessory options are sold separately to help you haul your gear with many roof rack types.

These items include shovel or Hi-Lift jack provisions, spare tire or jerry can mounts, or

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even straps to cinch down soft goods or awning attachments. Certain roof rack models also offer heavy-duty ladder racks, conduits for extra lighting, and more.

As the adage goes, you get what you pay for. More expensive racks are typically better built, offer more accessory options, and have good warranties. However, some may charge a premium for their name as well as their quality. The biggest takeaway before you

purchase a roof rack system is to understand what gear you want to haul, how you want to haul it, and what types of roof rack systems your vehicle can adequately handle.

Researching your vehicle’s particular make, model, and year will help you determine what basket or platform rack options are available. Vehicle roof baskets, roof platform racks, and even crossbars can offer solid solutions to carry your cargo.

The Rhino-Rack Pioneer SX platform rack.

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DIY & HACKS

WORDS AND PHOTOS

BY PERRY MACK

Fab Your Own Light Mount for $20!

Prototype or final – You can build your own custom auxiliary light mount for cheap.

W

e often get lights to review but occasionally they don’t mount easily on our existing vehicles. Many lighting companies are not light ‘mount’ companies, due to the diversity of vehicles and the accompanying mounting options. We received some Lightforce Genesis and HTX2 lights for review but alas, they were sans mounting brackets for our Jeep Wrangler.

Initially, we decided to build a rack and perform a static test. One that would allow us to determine the brightness, clarity, colour accuracy, and beam patterns. After all, these are the key features of a light system.

We built the rack. Then, while staring at the ceiling during a few sleepless nights, we decided we really wanted a dynamic mount – a drivable test rack and one we could use for a longer-term review, under varying weather and road conditions. It was an itch we just had to scratch. The trouble was cost and variability. We needed a cheap, functional solution that was fast and easy to work with, and could work for a number of different lighting choices.

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We often begin with cardboard templates before we fab a final, welded metal part. Cardboard wouldn’t cut it this time and we didn’t have the budget for a 3D printer, nor the attention span to learn to program it. Our TeraFlex bumper was disturbingly antagonistic towards any simple solution. We wanted the lights to be level or lower than our main headlights, clear of the main headlights and turn signals, and clear of our winch and winch controls.

While scouring the aisles of Princess Auto, Canadian Tire, and finally Home Depot, we discovered heavy duty standards for residential adjustable rack shelving - powder coated, predrilled, and channel steel. It was heavy enough to be secure and relatively vibration-free while still easy to work with basic tools. It was also cheap. Score!

Our TeraFlex bumper is notoriously devoid of right angles. After taking several measurements, drawing, and discarding several designs, we used a jigsaw with a metal blade, a step drill bit, and some stainless bolts to build a custom light mount – simple tools for simple minds. Assembly with stainless bolts

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allowed us to adjust angles (not easily done with welds) until we had what our minds had envisioned. It turned out to be sturdy enough to drive off-road, allowed us to manipulate the spacing and orientation of the lights, and ensure that the position of the lights met all of our initial criteria. Plus, it only cost $20 as well as a few hours of design and build time.

The 122 cm (48 in) bar we wanted was only available in white. So, in true hillbilly “get ‘er done” fashion we bought them and covered them in black duct tape so they didn’t distract from our photographs of the lights – please don’t judge.

The prototype met our needs, but it may not necessarily meet yours. After building a drivable prototype this way, you’ll have the template you’ll need to build a heavier gauge welded light mount. Or you could weld the joints of this prototype, scour the powder-coat, and then paint it as desired for an ultra, low-cost, custom light mount.

Let us know if you try this method with success or failure, or if you discover a better ghetto budget build strategy!

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2

3

4

1 For our prototype custom light mount, we began with a 122 cm (48 in) heavy-duty standard rack, jigsaw with a metal blade, a step drill bit, a rough sketch, and some stainless hardware.

2 We decided on the length of the horizontal section and cut the sides with the jigsaw. Then we bent the bar to match the angle of our bumper. A couple of holes and some stainless hardware held the angle we needed.

3 With a lens bolted on, we determined the height necessary for the light to clear the bull bar and sit at the level of our headlights. The ends of the mount were then cut to match the existing angles in the bumper for a tight fit (no right angles on this bumper) and notched to allow room for the weld beads. Holes were drilled for a secure fit using stainless hardware.

4 Our prototype turned out to be solid and secure enough for off-road driving. We can’t say what the long-term durability will be as we only used it for a few hundred kilometres. But for around $20, you can make a drivable prototype for a final, heavier gauge, welded accessory, or drive it just to see how far and long it lasts.

Volume 23/4

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THE Adventure begins with us.

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A quick snap of Justin and I running the rural roads from Cody’s Ram 1500.

OVERLAND

WORDS BY WES BRANSON

RUNNING the Ottawa Valley CODY FENDLEY

A Jeep JK, a Trailhawk and Ram 1500 were the off-road arsenals that tackled the terrain of scenic Eastern Ontario.

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O

What’s good enough for snowmobiles is well… good enough for our vehicles.

WES BRANSON

The downed tree we had to clear.

WES BRANSON

CODY FENDLEY

There was nothing too challenging for our rigs during the trip, but the trails kept us alert.

ne great advantage of living in Canada is the numerous opportunities for adventure right from your doorstep.

We recently planned a two-day overland route from Brockville to Granite Lake and Bonnechere Provincial Park in the scenic Ottawa Valley. The plan was to finally get together with a close group of friends and have fun for a couple of days on the trails. I was driving my 2014 Jeep JK with my buddy Shawn riding shotgun, Justin was in his 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, and Cody took his full-size 2018 Ram 1500.

Leaving Kingston driving eastbound on Hwy 401, we merged onto Cedar Grove Rd. (near Hwy 416 just outside of Brockville) and about 1 km (.6 mi) later we turned onto the trail system.

It was hard to contain our excitement as the area has a great mix of rural roads, unmaintained throughways, and scenic countryside consisting of rolling farmland and dense forest. What made the start of our journey even better was the perfect weather of bright sun and a crisp blue sky.

Once on the trail, we experienced some challenges right away. For starters, a tree fell across a portion of the trail we were running on so we had the arduous task of clearing it. Then, there were a couple of water crossings that we had to carefully negotiate. While they were nothing we couldn’t manage, there was one area in particular that called for some careful maneuvering to avoid a few rocks poking up through the surface.

There were also a few tight areas with thick brush and shrubbery alongside the trail. Cody was particularly hit hard in his full-size pickup, and would undoubtedly need to tend to some serious buffing duties once he returned home.

Nevertheless, we pressed on and came across a wooden bridge with a sign that marked ‘snowmobiles only.’ As it was apparent that all types of vehicles use it, over the bridge we went.

The road then took us along a straight gravelled section where we probably set speed records and then it was a matter of re-joining the highway to break for lunch at the Ashton Brewing Company in Ashton, ON. While we wanted to relax a little more, the trails were calling us back.

Rejoining the trail at Carleton Place (about 12 minutes from Ashton), we made our way north where scenic farmland and manageable trails evolved into more rugged and rockier terrain amongst hardier trees. A good portion of the trail in this area consisted of hydro lines and a series of abandoned rail beds. They were also a little less forgiving this time around. We even had a couple of hills to scramble up, yet we all made it without any issues. Justin’s Trailhawk was especially impressive considering its lower ground clearance, but it did have rock rails, which helped him better manage the more rugged parts.

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WES BRANSON

It was late afternoon when we left the trail to refuel near Ompah, which is about 50 km (31 mi) north of Sharbot Lake. When all the tanks were topped up, we drove north to Mosque Lake Rd, a rough and tough side dirt road that alternated between cottage and hunting camp roads and a hydro line trail before we arrived at our rustic campsite for the night on Granite Lake, about an hour from Ompah.

The lake and surrounding area were beautiful and as we set up camp, Justin pulled out his new drone as we all took turns manning the remote device capturing video of the area.

Just as we landed it, a huge military transport roared over our campsite, flying very low. We put away our toy aircraft, made dinner, and discussed the day’s events around a campfire.

The next morning we awoke to drizzly rain and overcast skies. Following a quick breakfast and the all-important cup of coffee, we drove to Hastings Highlands – just north of Bancroft – where we ran skirting rural roads around hills and through valleys. If the weather was more ideal, the views from this area would have been pretty amazing.

With sporadic rain all morning, the trails were a little more difficult. At one point I skidded and slid sideways on a slick dirt

The trails always seemed to get narrow pretty quickly.

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WES BRANSON

Justin (foreground) and Cody before a hill scramble.

road located right against a hillside. I wasn’t travelling very fast and was surprised how the slickness of the trail got the better of my JK’s BFG KO2 34x10.5/17 tires. Eventually, the trail became less rugged. We weaved in and out of the historic Ottawa Valley towns and farmlands before we emerged out to the back roads and onto the pavement in the village of Wilno, just southeast of Algonquin Provincial Park.

After lunch at a local tavern, we decided to press on to just north of Barry’s Bay on the way to Round Lake along dirt and logging roads.

This is where we came across a challenging water crossing, which was approximately 100 m (300 ft) long, and about .5 m (2 to 2.5 ft) deep with a few spots a little deeper. While I didn’t have any issues crossing with my snorkel-rigged JK, Justin and Cody would have. So, I decided to cross back and then took the lead to another route.

In the afternoon, we found our way to Turners Road that led us to Bonnechere Provincial Park where we set up camp for our second night out, made another good dinner, and relaxed once again around the campfire.

It was the perfect way to end a perfect little weekend getaway in the heart of the scenic Ottawa Valley.

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GEAR

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY QUINTON NEUFELDT

TRAIL-TOUGH Seat Covers Resistant to water, mud and debris, the SeatSavers from Covercraft will provide added longevity to your rig’s interior.

P

ick-up trucks and SUVs endure all kinds of conditions on the trails and my vehicle is no exception. In late spring and summer, when we commonly do a lot of camping and wheeling, it’s hard to keep the interior neat and tidy. Last fall, a season of running muddy trails and going in and out of the cab after outdoor activities began to take a toll on my rig’s seats with a build-up of dust, dirt, moisture, and other damaging elements.

I had been looking for some seat covers for our Project Truck 99 Super Duty and came across Covercraft, which has a large variety of practical truck accessories. But what I really needed, however, was waterproof protection for my seats. I needed a minor upgrade that would allow me to go wheeling with the windows down if needed in inclement weather (while wearing rain gear), or get in or out of the cab without worrying too much about trailing in mud or other debris and having wet, smelly seats.

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After some research, I learned that Covercraft offers numerous styles of seat covers for a variety of trucks, SUVs, sedans, and RVs. They also have covers available for canines and other pets, plus sunscreens and other accessories. I settled on the waterproof and polyester SeatSaver custom-fit seat covers and selected the sizing that would properly fit my cab’s 40/20/40 front seat configuration. They were also available in grey to match the interior.

The Installation I placed the order and once I received the covers, I was happy to see that they came complete. It included two front seat covers plus centre console covers and instructions. These are precise fit seat covers.

For easy installation, the seat covers slip over from the top and are pulled down tight.

The front is then pulled over the lower part of the seat and a flap goes down from the front and back underneath.

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The covers are then secured with clips that attach to the factory attachment points.

This involved pulling the seat forward and getting down underneath to see where the clips attach. While doing this, I found some loose change, a few leaves, and pine needles.

As the middle console in the cab tilts down with a lid that opens, the cover has a designated cut-out for a good fit at the sides, and Velcro tabs secure it in place. This makes for easy installation and removal (as the covers are machine washable). Another nice feature is the large pockets on the back of the seat covers that offer additional storage space.

As a test, I poured some water on the seat and was pleased to see it run off and not absorb in the material. Once installed, the seat covers looked great look and I now have the peace of mind of knowing mud, water, snow and slush won’t affect my truck’s interior. I can simply wipe them down or hose them off. www.covercraft.com

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While not an overly difficult DIY project, replacing the rear axle seal does require some planning and specialty tools.

INSTALL

Words and Photos by Peter Boyer

REPLACING Rear Axle Seals A methodical approach to this meticulous job for a Jeep JK is essential for successful results.

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R

ear axle seal failures are not uncommon on Jeep Wranglers. But, with the severe use that the seal encounters in a 4X4 rig, and its minimal design, it’s surprising that it doesn’t fail more often. This repair is fairly straightforward, as we shall see, except for the requirement to use some specialty tools that may be out of the comfort zone of some DIY mechanics.

However, don’t be intimidated. Like all mechanical repairs, a careful step-based approach, an understanding of the functions of each component involved and having the right tools for the job makes these repairs much easier with efficient results. If you decide to have your local shop do it for you, you’ll get a clear understanding of why it costs what it does for the parts and labour!

One telltale sign that the axle seal has failed is the noticeable oil at the bottom of the backing plate of one of your rear wheels or an oil-spray mark on the inside of the rear tire. This seal is designed to contain the gear oil in the differential and axle tube, while allowing it to lubricate the rear wheel bearing located at the far end of the axle, where the rear brakes and wheel bolt on at the axle hub.

WHAT CAUSES A REAR AXLE SEAL TO FAIL? Longevity Some seals seem to last forever, but many don’t. Friction from the axle shaft spinning on the tight, thin lip of the seal simply wears and in the case of my 2011 JK with low mileage, I suspect that age is a factor as the flexible compound the seal is made of lost resilience and was no longer able to hug the axle shaft tightly enough to retain the gear oil.

Normal deterioration happens slowly, which is why it’s important to inspect your vehicle regularly, particularly once it exceeds 100,000 km (62,000 mi). If a small oil leak goes unnoticed, it will only increase, and accumulate to contaminate the nearby brake components, increasing the cost of the repair.

Premature Failure Premature failure may include a defective seal, improper installation, or inadequate maintenance related to exposure to dirt and other contaminants. A defective seal is the least likely of these possibilities given today’s quality manufacturing capabilities (but it could occur, nonetheless). A more likely cause of premature failure is a recurring repair from improper installation the first time, such as improper alignment during installation, or a scored axle shaft during bearing removal.

My speculation is that most premature rear axle seal failures on Jeeps are caused by dirt, water, and rust compromising the external surfaces of the axle. Going off-road exposes chassis components to mud, sand, gravel and water. It’s extremely difficult to clean a chassis after total immersion in muddy water even with a pressure washer.

This is where regular brake service is important as components are disassembled, checked and cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner and compressed air. Even though the seal is somewhat protected inside the hat of the rear rotor, it’s amazing how much debris can accumulate in the area, thus causing the need for replacement. Here are the steps to replacing a damaged seal.

1

2 1. Secure a jack stand under the side of the rear axle that needs to be repaired. This will raise the wheel slightly and prevent gear oil from running out of the axle tube once the axle is pulled. Cleanliness is next to godliness when doing mechanical repairs – not only for convenience, but it keeps the surfaces of moving parts as clean as possible during reassembly.

2. Remove the 18mm bolts holding the brake caliper and gently remove the caliper, securing it on the suspension so it doesn’t hang on the brake line. Remove the four 18mm nuts from the axle retainer and the 8mm small bolt that holds the ABS sensor in place. It’s not necessary to remove the ABS sensor completely, pulling it through the backing plate as far as it goes should be sufficient. If you own an older Jeep like mine, these bolts and nuts will be rusty and definitely need some penetrating oil and a careful application of heat to remove so they can be reused. https://www.youtube.com/c/4WDMagazine Volume 23/4

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3. Everything is now ready for removal. Use a slide hammer to coax the axle retainer, seal, wheel bearing and collar retainer out of the axle tube. This shouldn’t be difficult, but may require two or three firm taps. Have a rag ready to wipe up any oil that might be released when the axle is removed and slide the axle assembly out of the axle tube. I borrowed a slide hammer from my local CTC store through their loan-a-tool program at no cost.

4.Stuff a clean rag in the axle tube to prevent any debris from entering, and clean the backing plate with brake cleaner. Closely inspect the wheel hub for any damage. If the oil leak is significant and the brake shoes are saturated with oil, they’ll need to be replaced. In my case, I discovered the leak early while servicing the brakes and the brake shoes were fine so I simply cleaned them up with brake cleaner.

5. Sometimes the outer race of the tapered bearing comes out of the tube at the same time, but more than likely it will still be in the axle tube if you can see the exposed tapered bearings. You can remove the race by hand, grabbing the edge with a pair of pliers if it protrudes slightly, or by attaching a washer smaller than the diameter of the axle tube to your slide hammer and positioning the washer on the back edge of the race and tapping it out.

Sometimes slide hammer kits come with puller attachments.

Mine didn’t so I improvised with a thick washer of suitable diameter.

6. Always be sure to take a photo of the order and placement of the components before disassembly to use as a reference during reassembly.

7. Use a grinder with a cutting wheel to remove the collar retainer and wheel bearing, making sure not to cut completely through to prevent scoring the axle shaft in the process. This is the trickiest part of the job. Just take your time, allowing your cut to be as close to almost through as possible. Then use a cold chisel to tap off the collar retainer and the inner bearing race.

When the cage holding the indi-

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3

4

5

6

7

8

9

vidual tapered bearings is cut, remove it with a pair of pliers so the cut on the inner race can be accomplished carefully. Note: Once the cuts have been made nearly through, the strength of the parts are compromised and they can be removed using a hammer and a cold chisel.

8. Remove the seal and the axle retainer by sliding it off the axle. I like to check the seal once it’s removed. In my case, the seal had just started to leak and looked alright to the naked eye. But it was extremely crusty and dirty and it was also 10 years old – time for a new one!

9. On the work bench, reassemble the new components in the proper order and facing the correct way starting with the axle retainer, seal, bearing and collar retainer. Refer to the photo and make sure that everything is in the proper order and facing correctly on the shaft so it will reseat into the axle tube.

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10. With some clean machine oil on the axle, use a hydraulic press to gently press the bearing and the collar retainer into place. If you don’t own a press, take the axle to a machine shop or your local mechanic and ask them if they could perform this step for you. It will only take a few minutes and should be an inexpensive service. I just reached out to Jamie at H&R Machine Shop in Fergus, ON, who did the honours.

11. Next, slide the axle into the axle tube, taking care to line up the splines on its end within the differential, and gently press it into place by hand. Make sure the notched side of the axle retainer corresponds with the ABS sensor location. The axle should slide easily into position. Once the axle is in place, slide the ABS sensor back in position on the backing plate and install the 8mm bolt.

12. Bolt everything back up. I didn’t find a torque setting for the axle retainer nuts, so I used ‘G&T’ (good and tight), and 77ft/lbs for the caliper bolts.

All is now good to go for another 100,000 km (62,000 mi). However, keep a close eye on it for the next 50 km (31 mi), while everything reseats into place.

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GEAR

Three detachable bags, a wrench roll, and two smaller pouches come with the Pangolin. The clear covers make finding sockets or other items an easy task.

STEP 22 Tool Storage

WORDS AND PHOTOS

BY BRYAN IRONS

The Pangolin just may be one of the easiest ways to keep essential tools organized and easily accessible while running the trails.

P

acking a bunch of stuff in our Jeep that we’ll never use is an edge that we constantly teeter on when we go wheeling. Riding with us for the better part of a decade has been a 183-ish piece Stanley socket set. It gets the job done and the entire getup was cheap.

The box all the sockets come in (like any blow moulded toolbox we’ve had) is nothing short of dumpster fodder. We’re not really sure how or why we have let this one stick around. The latches are broken, which on many occasions, has made us dig through the mud on the trail after all its contents inevitably spill out at exactly the wrong time. It had to go, but the tools could stay.

We’ve been using a Step 22 foldable “Stingray” flay box for a while to stash our air lines and larger hand tools. We are impressed with how well they have held up. But it was

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time to try Step 22’s Pangolin Tool Roll. The Pangolin comes with a complete wrench roll and a few different pockets that are zippered closed and affixed to the roll with Velcro. If it holds together half as well as the Stingray, it will be perfect.

We needed some socket holders to keep items somewhat organized in the Pangolin.

They were a little more money than we had expected, so we decided to snoop around Thingiverse.com for a socket holder set we could 3D print. A design from bross and kmac1036 were printed to hold all the sockets on a few strips of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum.

After swapping everything over and throwing a few extra sockets and other tools in the mix, we were extremely happy with it and still have room to spare. A multitude of other tool rolls keep popping up in our news feed, but

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We prefer a soft-sided tool bag over a hard case. They not only fit better in tight spaces and take up less room, but they won’t knock you senseless during a vehicle roll if it’s not strapped down.

none of them have the materials or organizational forethought that Step 22 has put into the Pangolin. Now that we have some extra space in the Jeep, it’s time to fill it up with more stuff! www.step22gear.com

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TIRES

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY PETER STORCK

The X3 Factors General Tire’s Grabber X3 M/T stands the test of time among hardcore wheelers and passed our six-month, 20,000 km on/off road tests with ease.

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T

he Grabber X3 M/T from General Tire is the result of some serious R&D. After testing more than a dozen different tread designs, engineers determined the perfect X3 prototype and then logged over two million test miles to produce the X3. The result? An M/T tire that can effectively take on soupy mud, stubborn snow, loose gravel, and various wet terrain on the trails, while providing smooth daily drives on the highway and city streets.

Although the X3 has been available for quite some time, it’s still proving its mettle on the trails, capturing plenty of attention among the wheeling crowd and for good reason.

Maybe it’s because the tire stands up to its name. The ‘X’ stands for extreme performance and the ‘3’ represents mud, dirt, and rock. We ran a set of X3 LT275/70R18 33’s on a 2018 Colorado ZR2 Crew Cab diesel with trimmed fenders for a long-term test of approximately 20,000 km (12,427 mi) (about six months), which meant we had the opportunity to assess the tire in many different weather conditions and on many different types of terrain. Even though the ZR2 has front and rear lockers, we only engaged them when it was necessary.

On-Road Performance in Various Conditions and Wear The Grabber X3 was developed with a 20:80 on/ off-road ratio. With the X3’s asymmetrical tread pattern and full-depth sipes on the tread blocks, the company has managed to offer an M/T with better on-road handling than some of its competitors in this segment. For instance, the X3’s soft compound conforms well to deformities on the road, which provided us with a confident and inspiring feel that we like on long highway runs. In dry conditions, we pushed the truck every bit as hard as with the stock tires, even around corners and on gravelly conditions with excellent results. The X3’s sipes and asymmetrical tread design gave us assured control on wet roads and hugged the road reasonably well. These design features prevent the X3 from plowing through wet corners and provide solid stopping power when braking.

Of course, road noise was on the louder side compared to non-M/T’s, but they make a different sound when compared to other M/T’s, meaning they are not necessarily quieter, but the pitch was more pleasant. There also wasn’t any difference in road noise once the tires were broken in. The soft tread compound did show signs of wear with extensive road use (as do all M/T tires over time) and we felt that these may have worn a little faster in the first 15,000 km (9,321 mi) than others we have run in the past.

We put the X3 through some pretty tough obstacles.

Just some of the deep muddy trails we took on with the X3.

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Snow and Ice In loose snow, the X3’s performed fairly well and gripped the roads as we wanted them to.

But in packed-snow conditions were a little more challenging with not as much traction as we would have liked to have seen. Then again, what non-winter tire isn’t challenged slightly in snowy conditions?

Off-Road and Gravel The X3 incorporates the company’s Duragen Technology. The X3 is a 3-ply tire made with a tough cut- and chip-resistant tread compound with best-in-class cut and puncture resistance.

This is combined with an ultra-high-strength steel belt to ensure an even footprint and stability. The open-tread design effectively channels mud, dirt, and snow from the tread while the stone bumpers in the tread pattern prevent stones and rocks from building up and causing potential damage.

We commonly drive more gravel roads than most people do and the X3 performed well even when running at street-tire pressure and higher speeds. In wet and muddy gravel conditions, the X3’s latched on without slippage when cornering, which wasn’t too much of a surprise being an M/T tire. Also, as expected, when brand new, the X3’s were amazing off-road with their deep tread depth, asymmetrical tread pattern, and solid construction. But like any tire, its performance changed over time with wear.

On the Trail After a good amount of use on the trails, city streets, and the highway, the set of our X3’s is now down to about a 60 percent tread life.

During a recent trail run, we noticed that performance in the mud with its shallower tread depth suffered and didn’t dig into the messy conditions as much, thus marginally slowing progress.

But the X3 did get us through the rough stuff when duty called. What was most impressive, however, was how easy the X3 managed climbing and descending twisty, steep, hills covered in loose dirt, rocks, and tree roots.

The steepest point we climbed and descended was 29 degrees and, in both cases, the X3 held its ground (literally) and didn’t exhibit any slippage. After running various hills, we came across a few mud holes and that’s when things became interesting.

The first one, which seemed to be no more than a large puddle, was about 5 m (15 ft) wide and 2 m (8 ft) across. But it was the deceiving kind, which is always deeper and meaner than meets the eye.

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We got ourselves into some pretty intense situations and the X3 got us through almost every time.

The X3’s sturdy and aggressive profile, complete with old-school lettering.

Following some contemplation, we put the ZR2 in gear and slammed the pedal. The front tires dropped into the puddle and within .5 m (about 2 ft) we were deeper than we wanted to be. Yet, the tires chewed their way through the muck. Had it not been for the hidden stump that caused the truck to become high-centred, we would’ve made it through. Nevertheless, the winch got us out and we were on our way to the next challenge.

The second mud hole consisted of black, soupy muck about 15 m (50 ft) wide and 9 m (30 ft) across with a 1 m (3 ft) wide creek flowing in on one side and out the other into scattered little streams. Getting the winch line ready, we crossed the mud pit on foot over a log and got the tree-saver strap ready. Putting the truck in gear, we picked a line and went for it. The tires inevitably dropped in with only a few inches showing, yet the X3 once again chewed through the muck as we made it up and out the other side.

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A set of M/T’s with just 60 percent tread can still get a truck through some pretty challenging mud holes with just a little effort.

After the second mud hole, it was a fast run down the powerline on a twisting, gravel track and the X3 held on well and grabbed the corners without any issues. Lastly, we aired down to 12-15 psi to tackle some rocks. With the ultra-high-strength steel belts and tough tread compound, the X3 moulded well around objects and gripped effortlessly.

The Grabber X3 is quite an M/T tire with some characteristics of an A/T to provide onand off-road performance for wheelers. After about 6 months and 20,000 km (12,427 mi|), the set of X3’s are still going strong on the trails and got us through some nasty conditions. It’s also available with optional red and white sidewall lettering, which adds a little more style to their already aggressive profile. www.generaltire.com

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GEAR

WORDS AND PHOTO BY PETER BOYER

ONE TOP COVER An ideal solution to prevent damage to your Jeep’s soft top components.

T

he cool air and hearing the sounds of nature enhance the experience while off-roading in an open Jeep. This is afforded to many wheeling enthusiasts with soft tops, but one impracticality I always experienced with my JK was keeping the window zippers of the top, especially the one at the rear, free from damage due to the build-up of grit, dust, and other unwanted grime when rolled up unprotected in the back.

Damaged zippers not only cause frustration while attempting to put the top back up properly, but they can lead to further damage by a) somehow breaking the zipper altogether or b) damaging other sections of the top, leading to further anguish. With summer currently in full swing, I decided to plan ahead late spring and find an aftermarket solution to resolve this issue.

After reading reviews about several brands of soft top boots on the market, which generally weren’t stellar with reports of flimsy construction, too tight fitment, and the inevitable premature failure, the one exception was JTOPSUSA and its Soft Top Storage Boot. I am happy to report that they got it right.

As JTOPSUSA doesn’t have a Canadian distributor, I ordered mine

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directly from its facility in Abilene, TX. Upon its arrival and taking it out of the package, it felt like a winner. Made of premium nylon that’s reinforced with Herculite (a commercial-grade vinyl that resists extreme outdoor elements), the boot had a nice, heavy feel. After lowering my JK’s top and putting it to the test, the boot with its neoprene nylon-faced end-caps and full envelope vinyl enclosures securely wrapped my soft top and all of the metal frame components into one clean, protected package.

There are also a few heavy-duty straps with quick release/compression buckles to ensure it’s secured in place. It even looks really good, which is an added bonus. Another Soft Top Boot is available for the JL (both are offered for the 2- or 4-door models) and while I ordered mine in black, it comes in six other colours.

After my experience with this boot, I won’t hesitate to order other JTOPUSA wheeling accessories for my JK. The company obviously understands the demands of the wheeling environment and the toll that it takes on exposed gear. www.jtopsusa.com

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#READERSRIGS Name: Devin Rochon Instagram: Offroad Brigade Photo: Cochrane, AB Suppliers: Truck was imported from Sydney, Australia, 2.8 L diesel/TD04 turbo, frozen boost water to air intercooler, 2-inch RUF Suspension, 3.5” lift, Chevy 63 rear springs, 4:88 gears, front/rear Yukon Zip lockers, 37” tires.

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Name: Lorraine Susak Instagram: N/A Photo: Okanagan, BC Favourites: Best of times are the hours spent off the pavement. Having an RTT is almost as important as recovery gear.

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Name: Noah Homfray Instagram: noah_homey Photo: Central Coast Suppliers: patrol_ownersaus Year of the Rig: 1999 Not For Sale

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Name: Jason Gomes Instagram: jasonadventurejeeps.ca Photo: Princeton-Summerland Road Suppliers: N/A Year of Rig: 2014 Rig for Sale: Open to Offers

Name: Jonathan Alonso Instagram: That_cavalry_trd Photo: Texas Suppliers: Ironman 4x4, Toyo Tires, Summit Off-Road Wheels, Dirt King Fabrication, Warao Offroad Year of Rig: 2018 Rig for Sale: For the Right Price Anything is for Sale

Name: Brayden Lesage Instagram: @texasleecy/ @Autosalesmagician Photo: Steinbach Dodge, Steinbach, MB. Favourites: Alpine audio system, dual top (hard/soft) Mopar Headliner, 3.6L Pentastar engine Year of Rig: 2021 Wrangler Willys Edition Not For Sale

Name: Tyler Mcmeekin Instagram: @Autosalesmagician Photo: Steinbach Dodge, Steinbach, MB. Favourites: Integrated wireless charging, Bose Sound System, underbody shield, off-road suspension w/Rancho shocks Year of Rig: 2017 Chevy Silverado K1500 LT Not for Sale

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