ft 5ftyj ft

GASSER MADNESS: TWO TROUBLE-MAKIN’ TRI-FIVES

ACP

DEPARTMENTS

TECH

8

22

FIRING UP

TOC

LAYING THE FOUNDATION A Good Engine Build Starts at the Bottom

10

PARTS BIN

44

14

CHEVY CONCEPTS

TOP 10 LS ENGINES We Rank the Most Influential Iterations of the World-Changing Engine Family

86

58

BOWTIE BONEYARD

ANGLING FOR POWER Part II: Big-Block Chevys = Where the Rat Tilts the Game

FEATURES

72

COILOVER BASICS Why You Want Coilovers and How to Use Them

16

BLACK OAK ARKANSAS Jason Blain’s 1968 Camaro

30

RELATIONSHIP GOALS Justin and Jenny Moses’ Tri-Five Gassers

FEATURE OF THE MONTH

52

80

RESURRECTION Bringing a Gen I Camaro Back to Life ‘

ON THE COVER

FREEDOM OF CHOICE Matt Cirocco’s 1972 Chevelle

Jason Blain has owned this 1968 Camaro since the late ’80s when he was just 16 years old, so when it came time for some upgrades, he brought it to the crew at Roadster Shop in Mundelein, Illinois, for a full-on makeover.

They brought it up to date with all the modern functionality necessary to make this one sweet daily driver. Check out the full story starting on page 16. Photography by Wes Allison

66

SPLIT IN YOUR FACE Rocco Rescelo’s 1970 Camaro

All Chevy Performance ISSN 27675068 (print) ISSN 2767-5076 (online) Issue 8 is published monthly by In the Garage Media, 370 E. Orangethorpe Avenue, Placentia, CA 92870-6502.

Postage paid at Placentia, CA. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: All Chevy Performance c/o In the Garage Media, 1350 E. Chapman Ave #6550, Fullerton, CA 92834-6550 or email ITGM at subscription@ inthegaragemedia.com. Copyright (c) 2021 IN THE GARAGE MEDIA. Printed in the USA. The All Chevy Performance trademark is a registered trademark of In The Garage Media.

OFFICIAL OE REPLACMENT PARTS OF

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[3]

VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

BEST PARTS! BEST PRICES!

• CHEVY TRUCK • CHEVY FULLSIZE • TRI-FIVE • MUSTANG II • • “G” BODY •NOVA • CAMARO • CHEVELLE • EL CAMINO & MORE!

CORVETTE-STYLE SPINDLE WHEEL BRAKE KITS

ZERSOET OFF

MM COMPLETE 13" FRONT/12" REAR LN5O2 C I L DUPA HE RONT BIG BRAKE KITS

F PISTAOLNIPERS C

DIRECTN

1964-72 GM A-BODY

BOLT-SO! KIT

STOCK-HEIGHT

SPINDLE KIT WITH C5 HUBS

Requires 17" disc brake type wheels — shown with optional upgrades

shown

AVAILABLE FOR

MOST POPULAR CHEVY APPLICATIONS

• Corvette-Style Spindles Cast from High Quality Ductile Iron • 13" Front Cross-Drilled & Gas-Slotted Zinc Rotors REQUIRES 17" DIAMETER WHEELS

13"

DRILLEDED& SLOTT

ROTORS

• Large Dual-Piston Loaded Black or Red Calipers • Modern Corvette-Style Sealed Bearing Hub Assemblies • Brake Lines & Installation Hardware • Works with Stock or CPP Totally Tubular™ Control Arms

UPGRADE TO C7 PERFORMANCE HUBS!

R DROP OIG HT E H K STOC DLES SPIN

BRAKE KITS WITH C5 OE HUBS starting at BRAKE KITS WITH UPGRADED C7 PERFORMANCE HUBS starting at

60%

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• 1/2-20 Screw-in Wheel Studs

199/ea CORVETTE-STYLE SPINDLE OPTIONS! STOCK

$849/kit

2ND !

GEN

starting at $

SPINDLES ONLY

$269/pr

2ND GEN. CAMARO STOCK HEIGHT

TRI-FIVE 2" DROP

G-BODY STOCK HEIGHT

13" & 14" PERFORMANCE

BIG BRAKE KITS FRONT: MOST

POPULAR APPLICATIONS

shown

ALSO AVAILABLE FOR CHEVY C10 TRUCKS

S! R KIITS AR EA RE FRONT OR R FR

CPP’S PREMIUM STEERING COLUMNS

NEW% RE- DES 100

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• New - Tighter Tilt Mechanism • New - Shift Handle & Shift Collar— Eliminating All Excess Play with More Positive Shift Points • New - Improved Turn Signal & Neutral Safety Switch OR • New - Professional Finish— FLOLOURMN CO IFT Satin Black or Chrome SH • New - Damage Free Packaging Plastic Suite Case UNIVERSAL FIT COLUMNS starting at $ /ea

• Power Steering Gear Box • Power Steering Pump • Inverted Flare Hose Kit w/Pressure & Return Line CONVERSION KITS* • Mounting Brackets & Hardware starting at $ /kit

429 Classic Fit PREMIUM 1967-72 $ CHEVY TRUCK COLUMNS starting at 469/ea

599

STEERING GEAR BOX ONLY starting at $379/ea

WE OFFER A HUGE ASSORTMENT OF POWER STEERING COMPONENTS & ACCESSORIES

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WITH PROMO CODE: ACP21

APPLICATION SPECIFIC SPINDLES ALSO AVAILABLE SEPARATELY starting at $189/pr

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T DIRLETC N I BO

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VACUUM

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FIREWALL OR FRAME MOUNT starting at $299/kit APPLICATONS

866-517-0273

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AVAILA

• Aluminum Corvette-Style Master Cylinder w/Cover & Bails in Black Finish • Vacuum Assisted 7"/8"/9"/11" Diameter Single & Dual Brake Boosters in Black Finish • Mounting Brackets & Hardware

100%

BRAND NEW! NOT RE-BUILT

OSTERS! BLE

MASTER CYLINDER BOOSTER COMBOS

UP TO

• High-Quality — Direct Bolt-in Unit 1800 PSI • Ideal for Engines Producing Low AT THE WHEELS! Vacuum or Large Cam Applications • Aluminum Master Cylinder w/Prop & Stop Block Kit (Upgrade Options Available - Including Wilwood) • Billet Aluminum Mounting Bracket BOLT-IN! • Pressure & Return Hose Kits • Pedal Rod Hardware FOR MOST POPULAR • Mounting Hardware APPLICATIONS

NO VACUUEMM?!

NO PROBLLEEM

OP 2" D R LES! D N I P S

shown with optional upgrades

ASSIST SYSTEMS

SPORO! RATI

/kit

1958-64 CHEVY FULLSIZE KIT

HYDRAULIC

14:1 T

TABLE ADJU-S Y 5 WA TILT

699

REAR KIT starting at $

/kit

12" BRAKE KIT WITH DROP SPINDLES starting at $409/kit

POWER STEERING CONVERSION KITS

shown

TO READTY L L A S IN

• 12" Rear Cross-Drilled, Gas-Slotted & Zinc-Washed Rotors • Rear Single 45mm Loaded Calipers • Rear E-Brake Cables • Brackets, Hoses & Brake Lines • All Mounting Hardware

VA AVA A AV • Big 12" Front 1-Pc. Rotors • Large GM Loaded Calipers • 2" Drop Spindle Kit w/Built-in Steering Arms & Integrated Caliper Brackets • Front Bearings, Seals, Dust Caps & Spindle Nuts FOR MOST • Rubber Brake Hose Kit POPULAR APPLICATIONS • Installation Hardware

PRO-SERIES 6-PISTON BRAKE KITS PERFORMANCE HUB & BEARING ASSEMBLY starting at $149/ea 13" OR 14" / FRONT OR REAR starting at $1895/kit

S I V E! EXCLU IGN!

12" REAR BRAKE KIT FEATURES:

• 13" Front Cross-Drilled, Gas-Slotted & Zinc-Washed Rotors • Front Dual 52mm Loaded Calipers • Forged Aluminum Hubs with Screw-in Studs • Front Bearings & Seals • All Mounting Brackets, Hoses, Brake Lines & Hardware

T BR AKES LARGESILA OR FOR BLE FO

$1498/kit

& FIT THE RIGHT SIZE FOR EVERY BUILD!

12" DISC BIG BRAKE KITS

N,, ON 1960-87 STO IST PIS P A E PI CHEVY TRUCK MORE BRAK E E! NC M MA OR RF R P PE FRONT 14" KIT MORE FOR CHEVY TRI-FIVE, FULLSIZE, MIDSIZE, G-BODY & MORE! 269/pr

FOR ALL POPULAR CAR & TRUCK APPLICATIONS

799

• 13" or 14" 2-Piece Pre-Assembled Drilled/Slotted & Zinc-Coated Rotors • 6-piston Billet Aluminum Stationary Calipers w/DOT Compliant Dust & Weather Seals • Corvette C5/C6 Caliper Brake Pads • NAS Premium Stainless Hardware • Braided Stainless Steel Brake Hoses • Front Kits Compatible with CPP's Modular™, Corvette-Style, & OE Stock Spindles

starting at $

LIND MASTER CYLV E KIT! VA PROP

• Features Front & Rear Kit Components • Works with 2" drop spindle or original drum COMPLETE FRONT & REAR spindles, available separately BIG BRAKE KIT starting at

FRONT KIT starting at $

REAR: GM 10/12 BOLT & FORD 9" REAR ENDS

CORVETTE-STYLE SPINDLES ONLY

L

EE INCLUDES 4-WHER &

E

13" FRONT BRAKE KIT FEATURES:

starting at

CAMARO, NOVA, CHEVELLE 2" DROP OR STOCK

MOR T UT OU BO AB RS A OFFFFEERS O !

ER W PO NG PI TOP ST S

Prices subject to change without notice. *Please note that kits and prices may vary between certain applications.

SCAN QR CODE FO R OUR CATALOG

BEST QUALITY! COMPLETE PERFORMANCE

PRO-TOURING KITS

1968-72 CHEVELLE/EL CAMINO KIT shown

IOR SUPEKRING & BR A PENSION E SUS FORMANC PER

COIL-OVER CONVERSION & TUBULAR CONTROL ARMS

SUSPENSION SYSTEMS DIRECT DIRE DI RECT RE CT B BOLT-ON OLTOL T-ON S TSYSTEMSYSTE YS TEMS TE MS-MS W WELDED ELDE EL DED DE D FO FOR OR MA MAXI MAXIMUM XIMU XI MUM MU M USA STRE ST STRENGTH RENG RE NGTH NG TH & V VISUAL ISUA IS UALL IM UA IMPA IMPACT! PACT PA CT!!

CT MADE IN THE

UPPER & LOWER CONTROL ARM SET • Exclusive Progressive Bump Stops • Ball Joints Already Installed • Black Powdercoated Finish

D-SPEC PERFORMANCE BUSHINGS

WITH FRONT COIL-OVER CONVERSION KIT FEATURES: • Complete 13" Front CPP Big Brake Kit • Complete 12" Rear CPP Big Brake Kit • Chrome Master Cylinder & Adjustable Prop Valve Distribution Block Combo • Pro-Touring Front & Rear Sway Bars

• Totally Tubular™ Upper & Lower Control Arms • Dual-Adjustable Front Coil-Over Conversion Kit • Complete Rear Suspension System*

USA

3599

PTK-4 PACKAGE starting at $

FOR MOST POPULAR APPLICATIONS

ZERSOET OFF

MADE IN THE

ORIGINAL OFFSET

/kit

BRAKE KITS

BEST STOPPING POWER

!

S

499

/kit

L

WHEELS!

TRI-FIVE FRONT shown

1.25A"RS

• Precision Laser Cut 3/8" Leg Fits Tight to the Chassis Allowing for Larger Front Tires • Heim-Joint End-Links • Mounting Brackets & Hardware

B

NEW!

K B L ACCO ATED FINIS H POWD ER

• Precision Laser Cut 3/8" Leg Allows for More Clearance Around the Shock Mounts • Adjustable Heim-Joint End-Links FOR CHEVY TRUCK, • Mounting Brackets & Hardware TRI-FIVE, NOVA, CAMARO, & • Rear Kits Work with Factory-Style or A-BODY APPLICATIONS Performance Rear Ends ADJUSTABLE HEIM-JOINT NEW DESIGN! BILLET MOUNTS & END- LINKS! LIGHTWEIGHT BARS POLYPLUS ™BUSHINGS!

FRONT OR REAR HIGH-CLEARANCE SWAY BAR KITS

SUBFRAME

MADE IN THE

USA

169/kit

SCAN QR CODE FO R OUR CATALOG

199/kit

starting at $

MADE IN THE

starting at $

PRO-TOURING PERFORMANCE! • Compatible with Mono-Leaf & Multi-Leaf Applications • For Use in Lowered or Stock Rear Axle • Front Mount Offers More Clearance • Self-Lubricating D-Type Bushings DIRECT • Mounting Hardware BOLT-ON AVAILABLE FOR CHEVY FULLSIZE, NOVA & CAMARO APPLICATIONS starting at $ /kit

299

#CLASSICPERFORM

ASK FOR

FOR MOST POPULAR APPLICATIONS FRONT KIT starting at $449/kit

Both Kits Include Spanner Wrench & Bearing Kit While Supplies Last!

FUEL-INJECTION TANKS & SYSTEMS CARBURETED/ EFI FUEL TANKS

ALL-IN-ONE EFI

FUEL TANK SYSTEM P IN-TANK PUM UDED! INCL

NOW NO OW AVAILAB AVAILABLE! BLE! FOR MOST POPULAR CAR & TRUCK APPLICATIONS!

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RAW ALUMINUM ALSO AVAILABLE!

1964-67 EL CAMINO KIT

USA

USA • Round Tubing Resists Torsional Twist • Maximum Ground Clearance & Resistance to Chassis Flex • Increased Integrity & Rigidity of the Chassis • Mounting Hardware • w/ Black Powdercoated Finish AVAILABLE FOR CHEVY NOVA & CAMARO APPLICATIONS

COIL-OVER CONVERSION KITS ONLY

FOR ALL A-BODY & C10 TRUCKS REAR KIT starting at $569/kit

MADE IN THE

TRACTION BARS

PRO-TOURING PERFORMANCE!

/kit

TOTALLY TUBULAR™ CONTROL ARMS UPPER & LOWER TUBULAR CONTROL ARM SET ONLY starting at $733/set

TRI-FIVE REAR shown

FULLY ADJUSTABLE

CONNECTORS

1179

COMPLETE SYSTEMS UPPER & LOWER TOTALLY TUBULAR™ starting at $ CONTROL ARMS W/ FRONT COIL-OVER KIT

1955-58 CHEVY FULLSIZE

OR IDEAL FA RGER

REAR

Fine Tune Compression & Rebound Independently with 19 Positions of Adjustment for Each Dial!

DIRECT ON T-O BOLLT ON NSTALLLL ATIO IN

HIGH CLEARANCE PRO-TOURING SWAY BAR KITS

FRONT

FOR CHEVY FULLSIZE, NOVA, CAMARO, CHEVELLE SYSTEMS ALSO AVAILABLE FOR CHEVY C10 TRUCKS*

ILABLE ALSO AVTAEIL Y! SEPAR A L

shown with optional upgrades

• Forged Aluminum Billet Hub w/Slip-On Rotors • GM’s Large 2-15/16” Bore Calipers • Installation Hardware • Keep Your Wheels in the Same Location As the Drums

ADES GR AD PG NY U P MAN E! ABLLEE! AIIILLA A V VA AV A starting at $

• Dual-Adjustable Shocks Allow Custom Tuning Compression & Rebound Valving Allow Adjustable Ride Height • Specially Designed Conical Springs • Spanner Wrench & Thrust Bearing Kit • All Mounting Hardware

WITH PROMO CODE: ACP21

COMPLETE SYSTEM!

shown

HEAVY DUTY

1963-72 CHEVY C10 BED-FILL 20 GAL. shown

NEW

BED-FILL

HYBRID

• Stamped Steel Fuel-Injection Ready Tank DESIGN! STANDARD • Thickest, strongest, • Complete EFI Fuel Line Kit BED-FILL & largest capacity —Including -6AN Fittings 15.5 GAL. • Fuel Regulator/Filter Combo CAPACITY • Tig Welded 5051 Aluminum FLUSH • Fuel Tank Sending Unit • For Internal or External Pumps • 255 L/H In-Tank Pump up to 600HP — ASK FOR • Fuel Trap with Extra Fuel Port for Both DETAILS! (High-Volume 340 L/H Also Available) Carbureted or Fuel Injection Installs • OE Direct-Fit Installation • Direct Bolt-In Fit Between Frame Rails — Requires No Modifications • Mounting Straps, Brackets & Hardware • Mounting Straps, Brackets & Hardware $ ALUMINUM TANKS (RAW FINISH) starting at /kit CLASSIC FIT COMPLETE ALL-IN-ONE $ EFI READY TANK SYSTEM starting at /kit $ MIDNITE SERIES TANKS (BLACK FINISH) starting at 699/kit

455

499

WE CARRY FUEL TANK COMPONENTS FOR ALL POPULAR APPLICATIONS!

866-517-0273

ClassicPerform . com

Prices subject to change without notice. *Please note that kits and prices may vary between certain applications.

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR BRIAN BRENNAN bbrennan@inthegaragemedia.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF NICK LICATA nlicata@inthegaragemedia.com SENIOR EDITOR ROB FORTIER rfortier@inthegaragemedia.com PUBLISHER TIM FOSS tfoss@inthegaragemedia.com ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & OPERATIONS MANAGER YASMIN FAJATIN yfajatin@inthegaragemedia.com MANAGING EDITOR & AD COORDINATOR SARAH GONZALES sgonzales@inthegaragemedia.com ART DIRECTOR ROB MUNOZ EDITORIAL TEAM Wes Allison, Tommy Lee Byrd, Ron Ceridono, Grant Cox, Dominic Damato, Tavis Highlander, Jeff Huneycutt, Barry Kluczyk, Scotty Lachenauer, Jason Lubken, Steve Magnante, Ryan Manson, Jason Matthew, Josh Mishler, Evan Perkins, Richard Prince, Todd Ryden, Jason Scudellari, Jeff Smith, Tim Sutton, and Chuck Vranas – Writers and Photographers IN THE GARAGE MEDIA ON THE WEB AllChevyPerformance.com ClassicTruckPerformance.com ModernRodding.com InTheGarageMedia.com SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@inthegaragemedia.com ADVERTISING Mark Dewey National Sales Manager Patrick Walsh Sales Representative Travis Weeks Sales Representative ads@inthegaragemedia.com BACK ISSUES inthegaragemedia.com “Online Store” EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTIONS info@inthegaragemedia.com Editorial contributions are welcomed but editors recommend that contributors query first. Contribution inquiries should first be emailed to info@inthegaragemedia.com. Do not mail via USPS as we assume no responsibility for loss or damage thereto. IN THE GARAGE MEDIA reserves the right to use material at its discretion, and we reserve the right to edit material to meet our requirements. Upon publication, payment will be made at our current rate, and that said, payment will cover author’s and contributor’s rights of the contribution. Contributors’ act of emailing contribution shall constitute and express warranty that material is original and no infringement on the rights of others.

Copyright (c) 2021 IN THE GARAGE MEDIA. PRINTED IN U.S.A. The All Chevy Performance trademark is a registered trademark of In The Garage Media.

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PARTS BIN

InTheGarageMedia.com

BY NICK LICATA

2 3

1

3. LT2K PISTONS 2. TRUCK RALLYE WHEEL

Safety equipment is the most important thing that you will spend your money on as a racer, but that doesn’t mean you have to empty the piggy bank to afford quality equipment. The new Speedway Motors SA2020 Lightweight Racing Helmet is a great example.

These helmets come with some impressive features, comply with the new SA2020 standards, and are surprisingly affordable.

Wheel Vintiques is proud to introduce a newly re-tooled version of a classic truck design: the GM Pickup Rallye.

The new 42 Series GM Pickup Rallye product line consists of three sizes, 15x7, 15x8, and 15x10, applied to two center designs, one with a 5x5 bolt pattern that features 16 rectangular windows and one with a 6x5.5 bolt pattern with 10 larger rectangular windows. The five-lug wheel offers direct fitment on any Chevrolet or GMC 1/2-ton, two-wheel drive truck from 1971 to 1998. All Wheel Vintiques wheels are made in the USA.

Diamond’s highly regarded “2K” series of shelf-stock forged aluminum pistons for robust 2,000hp power adder builds has been expanded to include the LT2K model to complement Chevy Gen V LT1/LT4 cylinder heads. Forged from 2618 aluminum alloy, the LT2K pistons incorporate special inboard webbing to provide additional structural support for turbocharged, supercharged, or nitrous oxide–boosted applications. The crowns are 3-D milled for a perfect finish and the underside machined to remove any unnecessary weight. The pistons feature lateral gas ports to enhance ring sealing and come with a 1.5x1.5x3.0mm Total Seal piston ring package.

For more information, contact Speedway Motors by calling (800) 9790122 or visit speedwaymotors.com.

For more information, contact Wheel Vintiques by calling (800) 959-2100 or visit wheelvintiques.com.

For more information, contact Diamond Pistons at (586) 792-6620, or visit diamondracing.net.

1. HEAD PROTECTION

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [10] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

WE ENGINEERED THE QUIT OUT OF IT At OPTIMA® we build and test every battery in the world’s most advanced facility.

Everything that goes in guarantees you get the most out — on the track, the trail, the water … anywhere ultimate power, performance and reliability is needed.

LEARN MORE AT OPTIMABATTERIES.COM

A CLARIOS BRAND

WATCH HOW QUALITY IS MADE

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PARTS BIN

InTheGarageMedia.com

5

4

5. SOLID STEERING

6

Thinking about updating the ride quality of your classic car or truck?

6. DRAG FLOATER

Aces Fuel Injection Blackjack Pro Ignition Coil is the perfect complement to the High Roller CDI ignition box and Blackjack Pro Series Distributor. It has a unique design that better dissipates heat and its square shape allows for easy mounting on a firewall or fender.

The high-output coil puts out 50,000 V, or about 70 percent more spark energy over most stock applications, giving you a much hotter and larger spark to burn fuel more efficiently and provide smooth acceleration throughout the entire rpm band.

Duralast offers a full line of tie-rod ends, ball joints, centerlinks, idler arms, and more to help you update your steering and suspension for a smoother, safer ride. All of their suspension components are designed to meet or exceed the original equipment quality and performance. Forged, micro-alloy steel construction improves tensile strength for ball retention in ball joints, control arms, and tie-rod ends. Grade-hardened bolts are utilized and elastomer boots produce a secure seal for lasting protection. Duralast offers extensive coverage for older vehicles and parts are readily available at your local AutoZone store.

With the evolution of power in the Pro Mod and Alcohol car ranks, Strange Engineering has responded with the introduction of its new-and-improved full-floater kits. Improvements include scalloped hubs and drive plates, stronger chromoly spindles, resigned wheel studs, and now come standard with the proven two-piece dynamic rotor design. Less rotating weight combined with increased strength and reliability will give the racer confidence that his/her car will be safe and perform every time. Floater kits are available in 4.75-, 5-, and 5.5inch bolt patterns.

For more information, contact Aces Fuel Injection by calling (909) 2449490 or visit acesfuelinjection.com.

For more info, check out Duralast by visiting your nearest AutoZone auto parts store or visit duralastparts.com.

For more information contact Strange Engineering at (847) 663-1701 or visit strangeeng.net.

4. HIGH-OUTPUT COIL

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[12] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

ACP

CHEVY CONCEPTS

TEXT AND RENDERING BY TAVIS HIGHLANDER

E

ven though it has a stock body, this Nomad

Enterprises chassis accomplish the tasks of handling at

will be all sorts of wild in many aspects. The

ride height and looking good while parked.

first thing to hit your eyes will be the two-tone black and root beer flipping to copper paintjob.

Backing up all the appearance items is a stout drivetrain.

Wheel centers and some bits of trim will be treated to

There’s an LT5 crate engine barking out its 755hp exhaust

some Axalta paint in addition to the main body. Once

note through a Borla exhaust. Backing up the LT5 is a 10L90-E

your eyes process the slick paint, you’ll see the aired-

10-speed automatic transmission. Combine all this with the

out stance that almost puts the rockers on the ground.

craftsmanship of Big Oak Garage and you’ve got one incredible

RideTech components combined with an Art Morrison

Nomad ready for the show circuit as well as the street.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[14]

VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

InTheGarageMedia.com

@TavisHighlander TavisHighlander.com Vehicle Build by: Big Oak Garage • Hokes Bluff, Alabama

ACP

FEATURE

BLACK OAK

BY NICK LICATA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WES ALLISON

ARKANSAS

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

InTheGarageMedia.com

“

It was a very Arkansas design—the front bumper was off, it had Cragar wheels—fat in the back and skinny up front, and the back end was lifted really high via two long air shocks.”

That’s how Jason Blain describes his 1968 Camaro when his dad brought it home from a Jonesboro, Arkansas, used car lot back in 1987. “My dad paid $2,650 for the car, which was actually in decent shape,” Jason recalls. “The body wasn’t perfect, but there were no major issues and the car actually ran OK. The paint was passable, and if you looked close enough in certain areas, you could see the original Rally Green paint and some sort of red color underneath that.”

Not long after, Jason and his dad found a used front bumper then added front and rear spoilers, leveled the car with the proper shocks, and bolted up a set of original-style rally wheels with

BFGoodrich rubber. “This was my first car. I got it when I was 15 and couldn’t even drive it without an adult accompanying me. It then became my daily driver up until halfway through my freshman year in college,” Jason says. “I have so many great memories with it—first dates, homecomings, football games, the first day of college, and all the stuff teenagers do in cars. But the most memorable day was when I turned 16 and was able to drive the car by myself to school for the first time. It was that big moment of independence.”

With so many great times, including a bit of teenage hijinks, the car was garaged after Jason’s first year of college. Although it sat stagnant for about 30 years, Jason held onto the car (thankfully), leaving it totally unmolested. He had no plans to sell it, as there were too many good memories to hold onto, and he knew one day an itch would need scratchin’.

JASON BLAIN’S 1968 CAMARO CARRIES A LIFETIME OF MEMORIES

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

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The time finally came for Jason to update the car and get it back on the road, but he didn’t want to interrupt the car’s original vibe—he even wanted to contain some of that early ’90s aura. “I wanted to bring the car up to date on the functionality side, which meant modern power, driveline, and suspension components,” Jason says. “But I also wanted to hold onto the flavor of the car as it was when I was 16.

Jason reached out to the crew at Roadster Shop (RS) to collaborate with on a direction of the restoration/upgrade process. “For me, the most difficult decision was during the early stages of the design development. Jason recalls, “I was torn between keeping an original look and incorporating some of the creative modifications the Roadster Shop guys are known for. Ultimately, we decided on keeping it fairly true to how it was back in the day while integrating a few upgrades I had always wanted, like a cowl hood and RS headlights.”

Ultimate Headers stainless LS mid-length headers send waste to an RS-built 3-inch stainless custom exhaust topped with Borla Pro XS mufflers, which slightly soften the car’s vocal intensity.

A 4L60 transmission accepts the engine’s capacity while influencing the Strange 9-inch rearend armed with 31-spline axles, 3.70 gears, and an Eaton Truetrac differential—an effective collaboration in keeping the F-body in tune with the road.

The RS gang took the reins and scrapped the original suspension bits (the whole frame actually) and bolted in an RS SPEC chassis featuring RS-valved Fox single-adjustable shocks front and rear.

Baer brakes were commissioned to scrub speed and feature 14inch rotors and six-piston calipers up front, while 12-inch rotors and four-piston calipers oblige out back.

Designed by RS, the Forgeline RS-5 five-spoke wheels preserve the Camaro’s vintage spirit while their sizes (18x9 front, 19x11.5 Starting with power, the fatigued small-block made way for a rear) take a full stride into modern Pro Touring stylings. The 430hp Chevrolet Performance crate LS3 engine, as updating massive Michelin Super Sport rubber (255/35R18, 325/30R19) driveability and reliability was a high priority. Dressed with a Holley give the Camaro an aggressive demeanor. top-mount intake, Billet Specialties small-block to LS valve cover adaptors, chrome air cleaner, and Chevy Orange–painted block, is a veneer to the engine’s modern attributes. A Holley mid-mount serpentine system drives the accessories while doing little to upset the engine’s traditional small-block look.

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FEATURE

Speaking of demeanor, at first glance the interior appears to be a freshened-up factory scene, but closer inspection reveals a highly customized cockpit featuring modern elements tied together with the vintage motif. Avant-Garde Design restyled the interior with custom door panels, center console, kick panels, and a fresh dash. It’s all new but retains the familiar setting to keep Jason feeling nostalgic. Dakota Digital RTX gauges look the part and monitor engine vitals, while a Nardi Classic Mahogany steering wheel adds to the classic vibe.

On the outside it would appear the RS crew dialed back on the extreme body mods it is commonly known for, yet the tasteful subtleties become more evident when you take notice of the shaved and tucked bumpers, deleted marker lights, and enlarged and reshaped front lower valance openings. RS fiberglass deep front inner fenders accommodate the imposing wheel-and-tire combo up front, while Detroit Speed mini-tubs welcome the huge rolling stock out back. Even less obvious, but still contributing to the package is the

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RS trunk latch kit, the Ringbrothers hood hinges, and the amber LED running/turn signal lights stationed in the grille.

“I wanted to keep the car black—the color it was when I first got it, only this time without the thin areas and being able to see the previous two paintjobs,” Jason chuckles. RS obliged.

They took the body down to metal and diligently smoothed the imperfections into perfections and then doused the shell in BASF Glasurit Black pigment. The deep, mirror-like finish carries the black perfectly, while Advanced Plating took the chrome and polished bits to the next level, which accentuates the car’s remarkable finish.

Jason’s initial hesitation on modifying the Camaro is understandable, but when the perfect balance of old-school style and modern ingenuity collide, Jason puts it like this: “The car looks great and runs and drives amazing. I now have the 1968 Camaro I’ve always wanted.”

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TECH OWNER: Jason Blain, Encinitas, California VEHICLE: 1968 Chevy Camaro Engine TYPE: GM LS3 DISPLACEMENT: 376 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 10.7:1 BORE: 4.065 inches STROKE: 3.622 inches CYLINDER HEADS: Aluminum L92-style port with 68cc chambers ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Nodular Iron crankshaft, Powdered metal connecting rods, Hypereutectic aluminum pistons VALVETRAIN: Stock GM LS3 CAMSHAFT: GM Hydraulic roller (0.551/0.522 lift, 204/211 deg. duration at 0.050) INDUCTION: Holley single-plane EFI ACCESSORY DRIVE SYSTEM: Holley mid-mount serpentine EXHAUST: Ultimate Headers stainless LS mid-length headers, custom RS 3-inch stainless exhaust, Borla Pro XS mufflers ANCILLARIES: Billet Specialties small-block valve cover to LS adaptors, C&R radiator module, Rock Valley S/S fuel tank, American Autowire Highway 22 harness, Ringbrothers hood hinges OUTPUT: 430 hp at 5,900 rpm, 425 lb-ft at 4,600 rpm Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: GM 4L60 REAR AXLE: Strange Engineering 9-inch, 31-spline axles, Strange Pro Nodular Iron case third member, Eaton Truetrac, 3.70 gears Chassis CHASSIS: Roadster Shop SPEC chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Roadster Shop Fox single-adjustable coilovers REAR SUSPENSION: Roadster Shop Fox single-adjustable coilovers BRAKES: Baer 14-inch, six piston front, 12-inch four piston rear Wheels & Tires WHEELS: RS-5 Forgeline, 18x9 front, 19x11.5 rear TIRES: Michelin Super Sport 255/35R18 front, 325/30R19 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: Black loop carpet SEATS: RECARO Expert S STEERING WHEEL: Nardi SHIFTER: Stock Replacement Horseshoe DASH: Custom by Avant-Garde Design (Palm City, FL) INSTRUMENTATION: Dakota Digital RTX HVAC: Vintage Air Exterior: BODYWORK AND PAINT: Roadster Shop PAINT: BASF Glasurit Black HOOD: Dynacorn Cowl GRILLE: Stock RS with LED turn signals BUMPERS: Factory shaved and tucked CHROME AND POLISHING: Advanced Plating

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ACP TECH

BY RYAN MANSON

W

ith the propagation of crate engines over the last 30 or so years, it’s hard to believe that anyone would bother building a mild street engine from the ground up. Yet here we are, doing exactly that. Why, you may ask? Simply put, we find it to be both rewarding and challenging—two traits not typically associated with a crate engine build (unless you count the unboxing portion!). For those of us wealthy in the time department, taking a couple days (OK, weeks) to build an engine might make sense. Those of us with only a couple hours a week to spare on our project might look at the crate option with a little more regard.

Either way, there is no wrong or right, just what works for you.

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would be fun to build an engine from the ground up, selecting the components and fitting things together. It was decided to shift gears on one of his current projects, setting aside the GM 350/350 crate engine he’d procured, instead having us build a stroked 350 based on a Chevrolet Performance bare engine block and components from Summit Racing, with the purpose being a budget-friendly, naturally aspirated, mild street engine, in the 400hp neighborhood, similar to that 350/350 combo that Cullen had his eye on originally.

Based around the later 1986-plus architecture, these blocks come equipped with a one-piece rear main seal and provisions for a modern, hydraulic roller camshaft setup. Shipped with a 4-inch finished bore, line-honed mains, and installed cam bearings, these blocks come ready to be filled with your choice of internal Something that has gained in popularity thanks to suppliers like Summit Racing stocking a myriad of options is to build an engine from components, from mild to wild. To complement the GM block, we’ll the ground up using an aftermarket block, machined and ready to go. be using a Summit Racing cast steel crankshaft with Eagle I-beam rods and Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons along with a set of We’ve done a couple builds in the past based around these blocks Summit’s Vortec heads and a Summit hydraulic roller cam kit. with great results. Machined to a finished bore, these blocks can be mated with turnkey components without any further machine work.

This month, we’re going to cover prepping the block along with the installation of a Summit cast steel crankshaft, setting the During a recent conversation with our buddy Zane Cullen at Cotati foundation for the rest of the engine build. With a drawer full Speed Shop, the discussion turned to the built-not-bought crate engine topic. We both agreed that in a shop setting, it makes perfect of hand tools, a handful of measuring tools, and a measure of patience and attention to detail, we’ll prove that anyone can sense to drop a crate engine in a project vehicle when time and build an engine that will be reliable and powerful to boot! labor is such a precious commodity. But given the opportunity, it

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1. The foundation for our stroker is this new GM block (Summit Racing PN NAL-88962516). These blocks provide a great jumping off point for everyone from the novice engine builder to the pro shop as they show up fully machined, featuring a 4-inch finished bore (capable of overbores up to 4.060 inches), installed cam bearings and freeze plugs, and line-bored, four-bolt main caps.

Based on the later (1986-plus) small-block Chevy design, these bare blocks also feature a onepiece rear main seal and come ready to accept a modern hydraulic roller cam.

1.

3.

2.

3. Before we install a single component, there are a handful of measurements that need to be made to double-check the compatibility between all the components we’ve selected. Before that happens, however, we need to prep the block, and that means a thorough cleaning using dish soap and water to remove any leftover machining or shipping oils from every square inch of the block.

5.

2. Since these blocks were designed with the engine builder in mind (as opposed to a factory replacement block), they come machined to accept a maximum stroke of 3.80 inches. Here, we can see the factory machine work on the oil pan rail as well as the bottom of the cylinder bores, a common area that needs to be addressed on a typical stroker application due to potential connecting rod interference.

4.

4. “Every square inch” means just that. If you can get a bottle brush or other cleaning tool in the hole, it’s a good idea to run it through now so as to ensure there’s no leftover debris, oil, or other contaminants inside before we button up the engine.

5. Painting our bare block is necessary, even though it shows up partially painted from the factory. While the obvious finish for most SBCs would be Chevy Orange, we decided to go a more conservative route, choosing satin black as the final color. We’ll be painting the block and heads in a two-step process, applying two to three coats of primer followed by a similar amount of color coats using Rust-Oleum engine paint from Summit Racing.

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ACP TECH 6.

7. The next step in the cleaning process involves an SAE Thread Cleaning Chaser five-pack from ARP (PN 911-0006). This kit includes a tap for the common SAE sizes found on most domestic engines from ¼-20 to ½-13.

7.

6. After a liberal bath, the engine block is blown as dry as possible using compressed air and then left to further dry out in the sun. Satisfied that the engine is nice and dry, it’s given another cleansing, this time with a clean shop towel and a good paint prep product before the internals are masked and the block is ready for paint. A final quick wipe down ensures our finish will be blemish free.

8.

10.

8. At this point, every threaded hole on the block is chased to ensure no debris from the machining process has been left behind. This also yields more accurate torque readings since the threads are nice and clean and the fastener isn’t obstructed by any foreign objects in the hole. I like to do this step after I’ve painted the block as it also cleans out any paint that may have found its way into any of the threaded holes.

9. With the prepwork complete on the block, it’s time to check our crankshaft against the installed bearings on our block to ensure the clearances are in the ballpark.

To do so, we’re going to need two sets of tools, both available from Summit Racing—the first being a set of outside micrometers (PN POW-POW152006) capable of measuring from 0 to 6 inches ...

9.

11.

10. … as well as a dial bore gauge set (PN CCA-5605).

12.

11. The goal here is to determine the amount of clearance between the outside diameter of the crankshaft’s main bearing journals and the inside diameter of the block’s main bearings, as installed and torqued to spec.

First, an outside micrometer with a range of 2 to 3 inches is used to measure each crankshaft main bearing journal.

13.

12. The mic gives us a journal diameter reading of 2.450 inches.

13. Next, the dial bore gauge is set up with the proper anvils to give us a reading slightly larger than our journal diameter, 2.480 inches in this case. With the business end inserted inside the micrometer, the dial indicator is set to 0.

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14.

15. For our naturally aspirated example, the stock main bolts will suffice, so the bearings are installed in their respective location and the main caps torqued to spec (70 lb-ft for the inner cap bolts and 65 lb-ft for the outers). The dial bore gauge is then used to read the id of each main cap assembly in the vertical plane, with the difference from zero as read on the dial indicator the resulting clearance. For most applications, 0.00075 to 0.001 inch (three-quarters to one thousandth of an inch) of clearance per inch of crank journal diameter is a reasonable starting point. That said, we’re looking for a reading between 0.0018 and 0.00245 inches. Here, you can see the dial indicator reads a difference of 0.002 inch, which is the measured clearance between the od of the crank journal and the id of the bearing assembly—well within our predetermined clearance range.

15.

14. To properly measure the main bearing clearances, we’ll need to install all five of the main bearings (PN SUM-172000) in our block and torque the fasteners to spec. It’s worth noting that the intended fasteners need to be used at this point to determine the proper clearances as they can have an effect on the final number, for example, stock rod bolts versus ARP main studs.

16.

16. With our main bearing tolerances checking out, the main caps and bearings are removed, wiped down one final time, and the final assembly of the crankshaft can begin.

We’re using a Summit cast steel crankshaft (PN SUM-180368) featuring a 3¾-inch stroke.

18.

18. Before the main cap fasteners are installed, a small amount of ARP Assembly Lubricant is applied to the threads as well as under the head of each bolt. This ensures proper thread engagement as well as accurate torque readings without the interference that could be caused by galling between the head of the bolt and the main cap.

17.

19. The front four main caps are torqued to spec, with the rear main cap slightly snug (10-15 lb-ft) so we can check the crankshaft endplay.

19.

17. We’ll be using Comp Cams Assembly Lube throughout the build (Summit PN CCA-104), applied here to both the top and bottom main bearings shells before assembly.

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ACP TECH

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20.

20. The rear main bearing controls crank thrust or endplay and needs to be checked before we proceed. First, a light tap on the back of the crank moves it forward, aligning the two bearing shells. A dial indicator mounted on the front of the engine block will be used to measure the amount of endplay (movement of the crank fore and aft in the block).

21.

21. The dial indicator is installed and set to 0 ...

22.

22. … the crank moved aft in the block using a large screwdriver to gently pry between the crank webs and the main caps ...

23. … and the resulting difference displayed on the dial indicator (0.004 inch). The recommended clearance range for a small-block Chevy is between 0.003 to 0.011 inches, so while we’re on the tight side of things, we’re still well within spec. If we wanted to open up the endplay, it’s a simple matter of removing the necessary amount of material from the front thrust face of the two rear bearing shells. With the endplay noted, the rear main can now be torqued to spec and the crank checked for smooth operation.

23.

24.

25. We found Summit’s Expansion Plug Kit (PN SUM-G1581) has everything needed to plug these holes and more when it comes to reassembling a bare block.

25.

24. The final bit of business related to the installation of the crank is to install the one-piece rear main seal. Oftentimes, this can be difficult to install with the engine bolted to an engine stand as the back side of it can be hard to access. To that end, we removed our engine for the moment and placed it on a workbench so we can install the rear main seal retainer as well as the camshaft end plug and the three oil galley plugs at the back of the block.

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ACP TECH 26.

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26. Here, the three oil galley holes are plugged and the camshaft end plug installed. Note the gasket adhesive that has been applied to the area where the one-piece rear main seal retainer will be located.

27.

27. One of the benefits of using a later block is the one-piece rear main seal design that will hopefully prevent any potential oil leaks. The one-piece rear main seal retainer (PN NAL-14088556) is installed using a gasket between it and the block and features a one-piece seal around the crankshaft.

28.

29.

30.

28. Another helpful item of note is this Dura-Bond Hardware Finishing Kit from Summit (PN DUR-FKC-1A) that features a handful of useful dowel pins, fasteners for the rear main seal retainer, cam bolts, cam thrust plate, and Woodruff keys.

29. With the backside of the block addressed, our engine can go back on the stand and progress can continue.

30. While on the subject of plugs, it’s worth pointing out the plug that should be in place under the rear main cap (seen here) to ensure that the oil is directed through the oil filter. If your block came with one already installed, it’s a good idea to remove it prior to cleaning, just remember to replace it before the crank goes in!

31. And with that, our crank is in, meets spec, and is ready to mate up with the rotating assembly next month!

31.

SOURCES AUTOMOTIVE RACING PRODUCTS (ARP) (800) 826-3045 arp-bolts.com CLAMPDOWN COMPETITION clampdowncomp.com COTATI SPEED SHOP (707) 586-8696 cotatispeedshop.com SUMMIT RACING (800) 230-3030 summitracing.com ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

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FEATURE

BY TOMMY LEE BYRD

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

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S

ome married couples work out together, some take cooking courses, and some enjoy wine tasting at the local country club. But for Justin and Jenny Moses of Braselton, Georgia, marital bliss comes in the form of a screaming Chevrolet engine and a four-speed manual transmission. The couple campaigns two cars in the Southeast Gassers Association, which is a growing organization that focuses on reliving the glory days of drag racing with periodcorrect, heads-up racing. With authentic pound-per-cubic-inch classifications and a very strict rules package that applies to both the appearance and performance of the vehicles, this group races hard and thrills spectators all over the Southeast.

With wild paint schemes, and even wilder antics on the track, the two cars might seem like the stars of their racing program, but Justin and Jenny are the real highlights, always providing a helping hand or a good laugh when fellow competitors need it most. The camaraderie and fellowship within the Southeast Gassers Association is second to none, and that’s why it’s one of

the fastest-growing organizations in all of drag racing. Justin and Jenny became involved in this gasser group nearly 10 years ago, and their racing crew includes family and friends who pitch in to keep the operation rolling from race to race.

Justin has owned several Tri-Fives through the years. He bought this 1956 Chevy 210 back in 2009 as a fun project to rip around on the street. The car already had the gasser treatment and had a street-friendly small-block and four-speed transmission. He made a few changes and eventually drove it to a local nostalgia race held at Atlanta Dragway. At that event, he was approached by Craig Owen, who was racing his 1955 Chevy named “Bad Company” in the Southeast Gassers Association. At the time, the group was still quite small, but it caught Justin’s attention, as he watched several members make passes down the track in their high-winding four-speed gassers. He realized his car was fairly close to being eligible to fit within the stringent rules of the organization and he began working toward a goal of joining the fun.

THRILL-SEEKING SPOUSES BUILD A PAIR OF KILLER TRI-FIVE CHEVY GASSERS

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FEATURE

Since then, the car has been through a cycle of upgrades, wild rides, and repairs. The first major change was swapping the small-block for a vintage-styled big-block Chevy with a cross ram intake manifold and two four-barrel carburetors. From there, it was a seemingly endless progression—as he made more horsepower, he needed to plant it to the ground, and as he got the chassis figured out, he needed more power to hang with the A/Gas class, since these are true heads-up classes. Justin seems to have found the sweet spot with the car’s current setup, but he continues to dial it in every time he rolls into the staging beams.

paintjob. During this transformation, he brought the car’s ride height down a couple inches with a Ron Pope dropped front axle. The rules mandate a minimum ride height, so he stayed well within those margins while trying to get the car to handle the newfound horsepower from a 532ci big-block Chevy.

Justin was originally hesitant to radius the rear wheel openings, but he eventually bit the bullet in order to run a larger tire. He did the radius job tastefully, keeping the same general shape of the original opening but raising it higher into the quarterpanel for tire clearance. This also felt like the right time to give the car a new personality. He dropped the car off with Paul Vanderpool and let him throw the kitchen sink at it. Endless lines, lace overlay, and wild colors make for an unforgettable

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The engine is made up of several BES Racing Engines components, assembled by Joe McGlaughlin. It consists of a Dart Big M block, stuffed with a forged rotating assembly with a ground-pounding 16.0:1 compression ratio. The hardhitting stroker combination features Brodix aluminum cylinder heads and a custom-grind camshaft, spec’d by BES. On top of the engine is an Edelbrock Victor Ram tunnel ram intake with two 4150-based carburetors. They are modified to flow 1,000 cfm each into the thirsty big-block. For 2021, Justin’s induction combination will face a penalty, so he’s changing to a TR2 “bread box” tunnel ram to be more period correct. In its previous combination, the engine cranked out 1,049 hp and 850 lb-ft of torque on the dyno at Engine Labs in Tucker, Georgia.

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FEATURE

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Justin is a contender in A/Gas and runs mid 5s at 126 mph in the eighth-mile. These cars are blistering the 660 feet with the front wheels in the air on every gear change and plenty of other unpredictable action, but they do not reveal their times to the crowd. It’s part of the mystique of these truly oldschool racers, and the fans eat it up.

Justin’s wife, Jenny, has been by his side during the entire build, and she’s spent lots of late nights at the dragstrip to reach this point in their racing program. She lines him up in the groove every pass, and often dresses in vintage attire to continue the theme of these ’60s drag cars. Although she enjoys her duties as a backup girl, she wanted to get more involved in the Southeast Gassers Association, so she set about building a car of her own.

While Justin’s car features several fiberglass body panels, Lexan windows, and an all-business aluminum interior, Jenny’s car is much more street friendly. It’s a 1955 Chevy 150 that originally came from Arizona. It was a very solid car when they bought it a few years back, so it still has all of its factory sheetmetal. It did get some bodywork to reshape the rear wheel openings and a set of Camaro wheelwell patches were grafted into the original quarter-panels. This gives the wheel opening a nice rolled edge and more of a natural contour to follow the shape of the tire. Once again, Paul Vanderpool was in charge of giving the car an incredible psychedelic paintjob. Vanderpool started with a silver basecoat and went crazy with colors, designs, and awesome lettering, with the name “The Scream Machine” on the side.

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FEATURE

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ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [37] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

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FEATURE

TECH OWNER: Justin Moses, Braselton, Georgia VEHICLE: 1956 Chevrolet 210 Engine TYPE: Big-block Chevy DISPLACEMENT: 532 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 16.0:1 BORE: 4.600 inches STROKE: 4.00 inches CYLINDER HEADS: Brodix by BES Racing Engines ROTATING ASSEMBLY: CP pistons, Callies crank, aluminum rods VALVETRAIN: Titanium valves, PAC springs, T&D rocker arms CAMSHAFT: Bullet camshaft, custom grind by BES INDUCTION: Edelbrock Victor Ram tunnel ram, dual 4150-style carburetors IGNITION: MSD Pro-Billet Distributor EXHAUST: Custom fenderwell headers ANCILLARIES: Electric water pump drive, electric fan OUTPUT (at crank): 1,049 hp, 850 lb-ft of torque Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: G-Ford G101A four-speed, Ram clutch REAR AXLE: Ford 9-inch, 35-spline Moser axles, 5.29:1 Pro Gear Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Ron Pope axle, Speedway Motors leaf springs, Competition Engineering shocks REAR SUSPENSION: Leaf springs moved inboard, custom ladder bars, Viking shocks BRAKES: Wilwood discs Wheels & Tires WHEELS: American Racing Torq-Thrust D 15x4.5s and 15x10s TIRES: Moroso Drag Special 7.10-15 and Mickey Thompson 29.5x10.5-15 slicks Interior UPHOLSTERY: Jim Shrader MATERIAL: Mostly aluminum SEATS: Kirkey STEERING: Vintage Superior metalflake SHIFTER: Long inline DASH: Original with custom switch panel INSTRUMENTATION: Vintage-style gauges AUDIO: Nope HVAC: Nada Exterior BODYWORK: Paul Vanderpool PAINT BY: Paul Vanderpool PAINT: Blue base with lace and endless lines HOOD: Fiberglass one-piece front end GRILLE: Original BUMPERS: Fiberglass rear

Jenny runs in the C/Gas category, as she’s working with a much smaller engine combination and a heavier car. Her 1955 two-door post still has all of its original windows and even has a full interior.

It has a four-point rollbar, compared to the 12-point ’cage inside of Justin’s car. Jenny is fastened to a vintage Chevelle bucket seat with G-Force harnesses and bangs the gears in her magnesium Jerico four-speed with a Long vertical gate shifter.

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Fifty Years Of Technology In Motion

1971

2021

We Thank All The Professional And Home Builders Who Have Relied On Morrison Chassis And Components Since 1971 www.artmorrison.com

Call:

866-808-4759

email:

sales@artmorrison.com

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FEATURE

TECH OWNER: Jenny Moses, Braselton, Georgia VEHICLE: 1955 Chevrolet 150 Engine TYPE: Small-block Chevy DISPLACEMENT: 355 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 13.0:1 BORE: 4.030 inches STROKE: 3.480 inches CYLINDER HEADS: Dart Iron Eagle ROTATING ASSEMBLY: GM forged crank, Eagle rods, Eagle pistons, Mahle pistons VALVETRAIN: Stainless steel valves, Crane roller rocker arms, Comp pushrods CAMSHAFT: Lunati solid roller INDUCTION: Edelbrock tunnel ram, dual Holley 660-cfm carburetors IGNITION: MSD Pro-Billet distributor EXHAUST: Custom fenderwell headers ANCILLARIES: Aluminum water pump OUTPUT (at crank): 550 hp, 465 lb-ft of torque Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: Jerico magnesium DR4 four-speed, Ram clutch REAR AXLE: Ford 9-inch, 35-spline Moser axles, 5.88:1 gear Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: 1955 Chevy truck axle with Speedway Motors leaf springs REAR SUSPENSION: Leaf springs, custom ladder bars, QA1 shocks BRAKES: Speedway Motors front disc conversion, rear drums Wheels & Tires WHEELS: ET Classic V 15x4 and U.S. Mags 15x8.5 TIRES: Coker Classic 185R15 redline and Hoosier 29.0x9.0-15 Interior UPHOLSTERY: Mostly original MATERIAL: Black vinyl SEATS: Chevelle bucket seats STEERING: Grant SHIFTER: Long inline DASH: Original INSTRUMENTATION: Original cluster with vintage-style tach AUDIO: Nope HVAC: Nada Exterior BODYWORK: Paul Vanderpool PAINT BY: Paul Vanderpool PAINT: Silver base with panel paint, endless lines and custom lettering HOOD: Original GRILLE: Original BUMPERS: Front bumper removed, original rear

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Horsepower comes from a Lamar Walden Automotive–built small-block Chevy. At only 355 ci, the mouse motor packs a big punch with 13.0:1 compression and a set of Dart Iron Eagle 215cc cylinder heads. The solid roller camshaft is a special grind specified by Rob Walden. Induction on the stout small-block includes an Edelbrock tunnel ram and two Holley 660-cfm carburetors. The combination made 550 hp on the engine dyno and then pounded out 465 hp to the wheels on the chassis dyno.

The chassis is mostly original beneath Jenny’s car, but they did swap out the original front suspension for a 1955 Chevy truck front axle and Speedway Motors parallel leaf springs. Out back is a Ford 9-inch rearend, which is narrowed and back-braced by Justin. He added 5.88:1 gears and Moser 35-spline axles, then added ladder bars to accompany the original leaf springs. QA1 doubleadjustable shocks allows them to determine how hard the car hits those 29.0x9.0-15 Hoosier slicks.

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VISION REALIZED

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FEATURE

So far, Jenny has competed at several Southeast Gassers Association races, and has been consistently in the 7.0-second range. The car certainly grabs the attention of the crowd, and she takes after her husband with long, smoky burnouts on a regular basis. The car is a little bit tamer than Justin’s but still leaves hard when Jenny dumps the clutch.

Without question, both of these cars are showstoppers, and the drivers are tough competitors. Between the travel to races, the expense of maintaining two race cars, and always striving to go quicker and faster, this is a passion project for this husbandand-wife team. Folks like Jason Murrell, Rickey Barnes, Rob Walden, and many more help them stay motivated, but it’s the thrill of speed and success that keep them coming back to their gear-banging, wheelstanding marriage counseling sessions time and time again.

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ACP

TECH

BY BARRY KLUCZYK

H

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR AND GENERAL MOTORS

but more importantly, its capability to process air greatly expanded its performance range. It makes good torque in truck applications, but from a high-performance standpoint the LS’s airflow capability enables it to rev like no other pushrod engine before it, giving more complex multi-cam engines a run for their money on the dyno.

ard as it is to believe, we’re quickly approaching the 25th anniversary of the LS engine and the cultural phenomenon it established within the automotive world.

It started with the 5.7L LS1, but the architecture expanded to include a range of displacements, from 4.8L (293 ci) to 7.0L (427 ci). Most of the variants were used in trucks, with some featuring E85 capability and cylinder-deactivation technology. All told, there were more than two dozen production versions, along with even more crate engine options from Chevrolet Performance—including those built with the racing-bred, cast-iron LSX Bowtie Block.

So, while all LS engines are good, some stand out from their deepbreathing brethren, distinguished by their performance, their cultural influence, and their effect on the enthusiast community. We’ve gone to the trouble of evaluating all of them and ranked the 10 best based on those very criteria. That means horsepower wasn’t the only metric because there’s more to an LS engine than its power ratings.

From the lowest-output base truck engine to the supercharged LS9, each shared the core design elements that made the LS a revolution when new and continue to prove its relevancy two-and-a-half decades later. It’s been an admirably robust and durable engine,

With so many variants, we know not everyone will agree with the rankings, and we look forward to the feedback this list will generate. Let us know your thoughts, but let’s start first with number 10 on the list.

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Debuting in the C6 Corvette, the LS2 6.0L also drove the Trailblazer SS, which quickly became one of the more popular performance vehicles of its day, as the engine performed even better with ported heads and responded very well to forced induction.

Along with a forged crank and pistons, the LSX376-B15 is also built with six-bolt LSX-LS3 rectangular-port cylinder heads, which offer additional head-clamping strength that is helpful in a higher-boost engine combination—especially when that engine sees regular track duty.

Whether in the Gen 5 Camaro ZL1 or as a crate engine for a restomod muscle car, the supercharged LSA delivers more than 550 hp out of the box, along with a strong, satisfying dose of low-end torque.

10. LS2:

9. LSX376-B15:

8. LSA:

FACTORY-BUILT FOR BOOST

BIG POWER AND TORQUE

When it comes to supercharging and turbo-

While the LSX376-B15 offers a boost-ready founda-

charging nothing beats the sturdiness of a

tion on which to complete a custom supercharged

cast-iron cylinder block. That’s why Chevro-

or turbocharged engine, the LSA is the blown

let developed the LSX iron block—and the

production engine that launched in the CTS-V

LSX376-B15 is the company’s factory-engi-

and drove the Gen 5 Camaro ZL1. Better still, it’s

neered crate engine designed to handle up to

available from Chevrolet as a crate engine, rated at

15 pounds of boost. That’s enough to make an

556 hp and 551 lb-ft of torque.

THE ADAPTABLE PERFORMANCE BENCHMARK In 2005, the all-new C6 Corvette also introduced the LS2 6.0L engine. It was the first of the Gen IV LS engines, which used a larger, 4.000-inch bore dimension to increase displacement from the LS1’s 346 ci to 364 ci. It helped elevate the Corvette’s standard output to 400 hp and 400 lb-ft of torque, which was a

easy 1,000 hp these days.

new high-water mark for the car.

The LS2 was unique in that it carried over the “cathedral”-style cylinder head of the shortlived LS6 engine from the C5 Corvette Z06 but without the LS6’s sodium-filled valves. It also had a comparatively high compression ratio of 10.9:1, which contributed significantly to the engine’s 50hp jump over the LS1’s output.

More than its high output, the LS2 earns its place on our list for its versatility and adaptability. Along with the Corvette, it was the

The LSA’s 1.9L Eaton TVS-type supercharger helps To be honest, this crate engine is technically

overcome the LS engine’s only serious shortcoming:

a long-block assembly, delivered without an

a lack of low-end torque. The comparatively com-

intake manifold or induction system, but that’s

pact blower spins quickly and builds boost just as

also part of the genius of the kit. The lack of

fast, helping the engine produce its peak 551 lb-ft

an induction system keeps down the price—

by only 3,800 rpm. That’s about 1,000 rpm sooner

we’ve seen them for around $9,200 lately—

than most naturally aspirated LS engines achieve

and Chevy knows the engine will be topped

at their peak torque, giving the LSA a tremendous

with a blower or custom turbo induction

feeling of power on demand on the street. Every

system, anyway, so there’s no reason to deliver

Camaro ZL1 owner can attest to that.

the long-block with a production manifold that will just get pitched two minutes after the

In the ZL1 or as a crate engine in a restomod Chevel-

engine’s uncrated.

le, there’s nothing not to like about the bad, blown

engine that drove the AWD Trailblazer SS and it was even offered in the star-crossed SSR retro roadster pickup. The engine will also accept the cylinder heads of everything from LS1 and LS6 to the LS3, L92, and more.

LSA. The only reason it didn’t place higher on our Better still, the engine is built with a forged

list is because Chevrolet offered an even

crank and forged pistons, along with a

higher-output engine that pushed factory

hydraulic roller cam with a wide, 121-degree

supercharged LS performance to 11.

lobe separation angle that’s ideal for forced induction. Bring on the boost.

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A camshaft makes all the difference in an LS engine and the LS376/525 crate engine proves the point. It’s an LS3 in all other respects, but the cam changes up the output by 95 hp. It’s naturally aspirated nirvana for restomod and Pro Touring builds.

Truck-based 6.2L engines make economical LS-swap material because they’re largely the same as the LS3 but much less expensive at the salvage yard—and they respond just as well to upgrades such as a camshaft swap.

Better yet, remove the tall truck intake manifold and drop on a supercharger.

7. LS376/525:

6. L92/L9H/L94:

EMBODYING EVERYTHING GREAT ABOUT LS CAPABILITY

KEEP ON TRUCKIN’

The second of Chevrolet’s factory-built, specialty crate engines on our list,

Developed for GM’s fullsize trucks and SUVs, L92 was the first alumi-

the LS376/525 embodies everything about the LS engine’s almost unlimited

num-block 6.2L LS variant, beating the LS3 to production by a few months,

performance potential and the comparative ease at which it can be extract-

as the premium engine offering in vehicles such as the Cadillac Escalade,

ed. It’s basically an LS3 with a camshaft—and that’s all it takes to send this

Yukon Denali, and the HUMMER H2. Fundamentally, the L92 and the LS3

naturally aspirated powerhouse to 525 high-revving horsepower.

are the same but with a unique camshaft and induction system for the truck-based applications.

A camshaft. That’s it. No head porting. No stroker rotating assembly. And no forced induction. Just the racing-developed “ASA” roller cam, with 0.526-inch

The L9H was essentially the same engine but with FlexFuel E85 capability,

lift, 226/236 degrees duration and a 110-degree lobe separation angle, and

while the L94 was again the same but equipped with GM’s Active Fuel

the complementing valvesprings. Simple but yet so effective because the

Management cylinder-deactivation technology. From a performance stand-

camshaft makes the most of the deep-breathing cylinder heads, which has

point, these engines respond to just about anything that can be done to

always been the key to LS performance, no matter the iteration.

an LS3—more, even, in some cases, as the fuel system for the FlexFuel L9H and L94 includes E86-capable fuel lines and higher-rate injectors. Word is,

When it comes to bang-for-the-buck options for a retrofit LS crate engine,

the E85 fuel system is good for about 700 hp.

it’s difficult to make a case for a better value than the LS376/525. We even know a couple of engine builders who advised customers they’d be better

One more thing that lands these truck engines on our list is their relative

off with one of these rather than a custom-built engine because they’d be

affordability. An LS3 from a Corvette or Camaro will cost two or three times

money ahead in the long run.

as much as a salvaged L92/L9H/L94. Keep that in mind when searching for a project engine.

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Eminently capable and with an entire arm of the aftermarket performance world behind it, the LS1 hit the automotive world with galeforce strength nearly 25 years ago. It hasn’t aged a bit, either, remaining relevant and adaptable with current performance trends.

5. LS1: A PERFORMANCE REVOLUTION It’s impossible to overstate the significance of the LS1 engine, whether discussing performance capability, its engineering, or its role in automotive culture. In short, it changed everything.

And let’s not forget the context of the LS1’s birth and the risk it represented for General Motors. Overhead-valve engines such as the old-school small-block were seen as archaic.

Multiple-overhead-cam engines were the state of the art, but they were complex and sucked up a lot of space underhood. So, GM doubled down on pushrods, developing a compact, all-aluminum V-8 that was thoroughly modernized in every way. They also made it breathe which, in turn, allowed it to rev like no other pushrod V-8 before it. It was a best-of-both-worlds solution that even the most grizzled and jaded of critics had to admit was virtually devoid of architectural or performance flaws.

There’s plenty more to say about the LS1 but the bottom line is the revolution started here, fundamentally changing the performance world for the better. Long live the pushrod!

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Truck-based iron-block 5.3L and 6.0L engines have become the low-cost foundation for budget boost projects, with scratch-built turbo systems blowing into stock bottom ends delivering tremendous horsepower. It’s a trend that speaks to the ingenuity of LS builder and the capability of the LS architecture itself.

4. LM7 & LY6: THE BUDGET SOLUTIONS FOR BACKYARD BOOST Yes, technically there are two engines here, but they represent a singular theme on our list. From a production standpoint, the iron-block LM7 5.3L and LY6 6.0L engines that powered hundreds of thousands of light-duty Chevy and GMC trucks were the unsung heroes of the LS world. They were the powerful and durable powerplants in ½-ton pickups and SUVs, but these workhorse engines found a second calling with performance enthusiasts as the budget foundations for highboost street/strip combinations.

The iron-blocks are ideal for forced induction and respond incredibly well to turbocharging, even with boost levels that, by all logic, should melt their cast pistons and ventilate their crankcases.

Builders with larger budgets will beef up these engines’ rotating assemblies, but the stories of a “junkyard” 5.3L and a cheap, overseas turbocharger combining to push 600-800 hp are common enough to make the LM7/LY6 variants bona fide cult engines in the LS universe.

It’s not just the budget performance capability that lands these engines so high on our list, but the ingenuity they’ve fostered in the performance community. Finding a cheaper way to go fast has always been the spirit of hot rodding and these LS variants epitomize that like nothing else.

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The 430hp LS3 has replaced the LS1 as the go-to crate engine for LS swaps in vehicles of every vintage and model. It’s the “350 smallblock” for a new generation of builders.

3. LS3: THE 21ST CENTURY ZZ4 The LS3 will go down in history as the “350 small-block” of LS engines. In fact, its production role in the C6 Corvette and Gen 5 Camaro is secondary to its life as the new benchmark crate engine in the increasingly growing world of LS swaps. It’s the ZZ4 of the 21st century.

It’s easy to understand the appeal. Out of the box, it’s rated at 430 hp—a threshold that would be hard to match with a classic small-block for the less-than-$8,000 price tag the LS3 is generally going for these days. It’s an exceptional value and the complementing components required for a successful LS swap are getting less expensive by the day, too.

If 430 hp isn’t quite good enough, a simple camshaft swap and other mild upgrades quickly send output beyond the 500hp level, but for most enthusiasts, a straightforward LS3 swap is all that’s necessary to modernize their cruising experience—and more and more of them are doing it every day.

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Nothing helps shed rubber from new tires like the TVS-blown LS9. Chevrolet is sold out of the crate engines and the few that haven’t already been dropped in a vintage Chevelle, Camaro, or Corvette are highly coveted. It was—and remains—a supercharged monster.

In a league of its own, the LS7 represents the pinnacle of naturally aspirated performance. Along with the Z06, Chevrolet also dropped the engine into the commemorative 427 Edition convertible in 2013 as a send-off tribute to the C6 generation.

1. LS7:

2. LS9:

BEST. LS ENGINE. EVER.

THE KING OF THE HILL’S CROWN

In a world with 650hp Camaro ZL1s, along with even more powerful Hellcats Until the direct-injected supercharged LT engines arrived a few years ago, the

and Shelby Mustangs, it’s easy to forget the influence and importance of the

638hp LS9 in the C6 Corvette ZR1 held the distinction as the most powerful

LS7-powered Corvette Z06. Before it, there were precious few production cars

production engine ever for a GM vehicle. It was a barely restrained monster

that boasted horsepower levels of 500 or greater.

that shrieked under wide-open throttle, screaming for more air to ingest.

The Z06 changed all that. It democratized supercar-level performance and In its only production application, the engine—force-fed by a 2.3L Eaton TVS

it was all thanks to the racing-derived LS7. Its large displacement and cav-

supercharger—pulled the ZR1 through the quarter-mile in just more than 11

ernous cylinder heads, with featherweight titanium valvetrain components,

seconds and up to a 205 mph top speed. It also had a second life as Chevrolet

processed air like few other naturally aspirated engines, revving to a stellar

Performance crate engine, but they’re all gone now, scooped up by Pro Touring

7,000 rpm. It was built by hand, too, and featured deck-plate boring and hon-

and restomod builders who wanted the pinnacle in factory-engineered LS

ing of the unique cylinder block. There was nothing else like it.

performance. Good things like that never last forever.

There still isn’t. Not even the 6.2L LT1 engine of the C8 Corvette matches Regardless of its LS architecture, the supercharged LS9 was the sort of brash,

the naturally aspirated output of the 15-year-old LS7. And for all the great

over-the-top offering that only a few years earlier wouldn’t have seemed

horsepower numbers of those Hellcats and Shelbys, they come with a weight

possible from an OE manufacturer. Its lifespan may have been comparatively

penalty, from the supercharger housing to the associated intercooling circuit.

brief, but it took LS performance to its zenith.

And let’s not forget it takes horsepower to drive a supercharged engine. The LS7 is unadulterated, high-revving horsepower in its purest form.

Fifteen years after its introduction, the LS7 remains a benchmark of naturally aspirated performance. When we drew up this list, there was a debate about whether some engines would be included and where others would fall in the ranking, but there was no question about the LS7. It was number one, right from the start.

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FEATURE

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BY SCOTTY LACHENAUER

M

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

att Cirocco, of Massapequa, New York, found himself with a daunting dilemma on his hands. “I found out about a good builder 1972 Chevelle for sale locally. When I got there I saw an equally cool 1969 Camaro the seller was willing to unload.” After much deliberation, a decision was made to grab the Chevelle for his new project. You never know how lady luck is going to treat you on any given day, but luckily for this guy he slept well knowing he made the right choice that day.

Once the Chevelle found a home at Matt’s house, the planning started. Built up as a basic driver, the 350ci automatic ride was the perfect vehicle to build his dream car. The game plan was to bring the car over to S/P Classics Ltd. in Amityville, New York, where proprietors Steven McCrory and Peter Colasanto would discuss options with the new owner. “I wanted to be ‘conservative’ at first, so [Colasanto] said ‘Let’s do a Crate 454, rebuild the tranny, add Vintage Air, some disc brakes, and fresh wheels.’ As [Colasanto] would call it, the ‘Grand Slam,’” Matt says.

OWNER PICKS BETWEEN TWO CLASSIC CHEVYS ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [53] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

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FEATURE The guys at S/P also installed a fresh TREMEC five-speed trans to back all the power the big-block could muster. It feeds a Moser differential stuffed with 4.11 gears. The 35-spline axles spin a set of Budnick Chisel wheels, 18x10 out back and 17x8 up front. The rears are shod with 305/40R18 Mickey Thompson rubber, while the fronts are wrapped with 225/50R17 BFGoodrich skin. Wilwood brakes do the stopping, using four-piston calipers mated to 10-inch rotors.

That first round of mods would commence a longstanding friendship between the players here, as the owner would call on the S/P guys whenever the time came for additional upgrades.

That time would come quickly, as very soon down the road Matt decided he needed a bit more out of the Chevelle. “So, I headed back to S/P Classics and said what’s next? [McCrory] and [Colasanto] knew I was hooked and that I wanted to go to the next level,” Matt says.

S/P delivered the goods by ordering up one nasty big-block for the Chevelle. “We went with a Shafiroff BB540. It was a ‘no brainer’ as the shop is right here on Long Island and their work is top-notch,” Matt says. The engine is based on a Dart Big M 9.8-inch block, stuffed with an SSRE/Scat 4.250-inch stroke steel crank, Scat I-beam steel rods, and JE/SRP 10.5:1 compression forged aluminum pistons. A Comp Cam hydraulic roller and roller lifters get the valves jumpin’, and Dart Pro 1 325 aluminum heads, Edelbrock Victor Series intake, and a Quick Fuel 950 carb top the mill. All this bigblock goodness is conservatively rated at a 715 hp at the crank.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [54] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

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To upgrade the suspension, Matt went with Hotchkis upper and lower tubular control arms with Hotchkis springs. To soften the ride, he installed a set of AC Delco shocks. Out back, he added a set of Hotchkis coilovers and upper and lower trailing arms to get the ride he desired. A set of Hotchkis sway bars help stabilize this A-body in the turns.

When Matt bought the Chevelle, the body was in reasonably good shape. It had survived the brutal maritime weather patterns that Long Island is known for. However, since this Chevelle was going through a metal metamorphosis of sorts, the owner decided to freshen up the paint with a brilliant layer of PPG Mulsanne Blue on the flanks and the new GM 2-inch cowl hood. Black SS stripes finish off the look. All paintwork was handled by V&J Auto Body in nearby Lindenhurst, New York.

Once the Chevelle was updated, Matt wasted no time testing out his newfound power. The reviews came in fast and fierce.

“It is honestly just an adrenaline rush to drive … from the handling to the power, it is a nice escape from the every day.

This car has been such a piece of my life’s history as well.

From the friendships I’ve made with it to proposing to my wife, Christina, in the car, it has been truly amazing and has treated me very well. The experience of building the car was not only educational but an instrumental part of my passion for muscle cars to this day,” Matt admits.

Interior-wise, Matt wanted to keep its vintage look but add a few comfort bits and upgrade the original dash. The factory seats were redressed in TMI upholstery and carry a vintage look while adding more cushion in the bolster and lumbar areas. Matt chose a full set of Auto Meter gauges, including a tach on the original column to keep track of vitals. A 1970 Chevelle steering wheel retains the oldschool feel. Vintage Air controls the climate and Pioneer supplies the road tunes for Matt’s frequent forays out onto the Island.

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TECH OWNER: Matt Cirocco, Massapequa, New York VEHICLE: 1972 Chevelle Engine TYPE: Shafiroff big-block BLOCK: Dart Big M DISPLACEMENT: 540 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 10.5:1 BORE: 4.500 STROKE: 4.250 CYLINDER HEADS: Dart Pro 1 325 aluminum heads ROTATING ASSEMBLY: SSRE/Scat 4340 4.250-inch stroke steel crank, Scat 4340 6.385-inch H-beam steel rods, JE/SRP 10.5-1 forged aluminum pistons with coated skirts VALVETRAIN: Comp Cams solid roller lifters, 1.550-inch roller springs with steel retainers, Comp Cams 1.7 Ultra Pro Magnum roller rockers CAMSHAFT: SSRE/Comp Cams custom “Street Roller” camshaft INDUCTION: Edelbrock Victor Series aluminum intake, Quick Fuel 950-cfm carburetor IGNITION: MSD EXHAUST: Hooker Headers, Borla Mufflers, 3.5-inch stainless pipes OUTPUT (at crank): 715 hp Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: TREMEC TKO five-speed REAR AXLE: Moser 12-bolt with 4:11 gears Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Hotchkis upper and lower tubular control arms, AC Delco shocks, Hotchkis springs, Hotchkis sway bar REAR SUSPENSION: Hotchkis coilovers, Hotchkis upper and lower trailing arms, Hotchkis sway bar BRAKES: Wilwood four-piston calipers with 10-inch rotors, GM master Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Budnik Chisel 17x8 front, 18x10 rear TIRES: BFGoodrich 225/50R17 front, 305/40R18 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: TMI MATERIAL: Vinyl SEATS: Stock STEERING: Stock column with 1970 Chevelle steering wheel SHIFTER: Hurst DASH: Stock INSTRUMENTATION: Auto Meter AUDIO: Pioneer HVAC: Vintage Air Exterior BODYWORK: V&J Auto Body (Lindenhurst, New York) PAINT BY: V&J PAINT: PPG Mulsanne Blue HOOD: GM 2-inch cowl GRILLE: Stock BUMPERS: Original

There are plenty of people to thank here. “First off I’d like to thank my wife, Christina, for being patient with all the car shows. I drive her nuts! A special shout-out to the Cirocco family for their support, along with Lou Sedita for his advice and encouragement. Thanks to Stacy Figman at Stay Fast Performance for tuning the car, 631 Coatings, and Steven McCrory and Peter Colasanto. S/P is no longer in business, and sadly my friend [Colasanto] [died]. [McCrory] has now retired so I dedicate this story to [Colasanto] and S/P Classics. Rest in peace, cowboy!”

There’s one more thing of note. You see, after buying the Chevelle, he could not stop thinking about that 1969 Camaro sitting there without a home. “I admit, a year after I got the Chevelle, I broke down and stopped over at Old Man Vinny’s shop again. I just had to have that Camaro, which luckily was still available. I bought that one and stuffed her in the garage right next to the Chevelle,” Matt says. Sometimes the best choice is not making a choice at all …

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BY JEFF SMITH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR AND JOHN BAECHTEL/HOT ROD ENGINE TECH

ANGLING FOR POWER

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [58] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

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T

he big-block Chevy as we know it today was big news in 1965. The Corvette and fullsize cars debuted a replacement for the antiquated 343/409 W engines with some ancestral connections, like the crankshaft. But for the techno-engine geeks, the Rat was noteworthy for the odd valve angle cylinder heads. The 427 and its smaller-inch brother 396 both sported a set of “porcupine” heads, no-doubt offered by some journalist who made the connection between the big-block’s bizarre valve angles and that rodent with its protruding quills.

If you didn’t catch our Part I story on small-block valve angles (July ’21 issue), we’ll step back a moment to define our use of the term valve angle. This is a valve angle measured in degrees that references off of the centerline of the cylinder bore. So if we were to measure the angle of an OE big-block iron or aluminum head, we’d see there is a 26-degree angle to the intake valve from the bore centerline reference point. The stock exhaust angle is a much more vertical 17 degrees.

Both valves are canted by 4 degrees in opposite directions.

Oddly, you would think that the big-block might have benefited from additional research and perhaps have utilized a taller intake valve angle, but in fact that angle is actually greater than the small-block 26 degrees versus the small-block’s 23 degrees, but the Rat sports a 4-degree tilt of both the intake and exhaust valves. In a typical wedge combustion chamber cylinder head like the small-block Chevy, the valves are arranged in a single file. But big-block cylinder head designers departed from that concept by tilting the intake valve 4 degrees toward the center of the cylinder. Actually, both the intake and exhaust valves are tilted 4 degrees but in opposite directions to enhance flow.

While all production Rat heads maintained that fixed 26-degree valve, the aftermarket was quick to recognize the benefit of moving that intake valve angle to improve airflow. Dart has been at the forefront of cylinder head development, which can be traced back to Dart’s then-owner Richard Maskin’s deep involvement with NHRA Pro Stock drag racing. As we’ll see, Dart’s cylinder head repertoire is closely tied to the cylinder head development that can trace its origins back to the beginning of NHRA 500ci Pro Stock drag racing.

PART II: BIG-BLOCK CHEVYS = WHERE THE RAT TILTS THE GAME

It wasn’t long before most aftermarket big-block heads were using a 24-degree valve angle to enhance flow with the exhaust at 15 degrees or what are now called rolled heads at 2 degrees from stock. These redesigned heads also retain the 4-degree tilt angle.

What was once current technology in the ’80s can now be seen as big-block street heads with options for both oval- and rectangle-port designs. The earliest Chevy production heads always used the larger, rectangle ports on the high-performance applications. While we won’t dive too deep into port design in this story, oval ports are now considered the more efficient design. This is because the corners of a rectangle port tend to be dead flow areas that cause turbulence.

Current Pro Stock technology uses an oval configuration.

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1.

1. This is an early set of cast-iron, oval-port, closed-chamber heads from Chevrolet. In 1970 the factory converted from a small, closed chamber to a larger open chamber, but the valve angle in all these heads was a stock 26 degrees.

We will use Dart heads as our examples on this jaunt through the various big-block Chevy valve angles, but there are certainly many other companies that also offer cylinder heads with taller valve angles, such as AFR, Brodix, MBE, Pro-Filer, TFS, and others.

2. What made the big-block so different was the 4-degree tilt that tips the valve toward the center of the chamber and away from the cylinder wall. This gave the big-block its distinctive look that spawned the “porcupine” moniker referencing the odd valve angles.

2.

Within the 24-degree family, Dart offers everything from a relatively small, high-velocity street 275cc oval port head all the way up through 365cc CNCported heads that can easily accommodate a 2.350inch intake valve in its 121cc combustion chamber.

This particular 24-degree 365cc CNC ported head can flow up to 414 cfm at 0.700-inch valve lift, which is a monster improvement over an old cast-iron rectangleport head like the 088 castings that can flow around 300 cfm at the same valve lift and test depression.

Not much later, Dart repositioned the valve angle again, this time to 20 degrees with the largest casting offering over 450cc oval intake ports that still retain the ability to fit conventional intake manifolds.

Generally, as the intake valve angle becomes steeper it also requires raising the intake port entry point to produce an efficient path into the bowl area.

3. Even a mild set of 24-degree oval port heads with 10.5:1 compression with a 496ci—or better yet 540ci—street Rat on pump gas with a decent mechanical roller cam can make 700 hp with a 1,050-cfm Holley Dominator carb and single-plane intake.

3.

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4.

5.

4. The aftermarket quickly learned that a slight angle change to 24 degrees could be accommodated for engines with valve reliefs cut for the stock 26-degree angle. These 335cc rectangle-port AFR heads on Troy LaCrone’s 1969 Camaro (that has since been updated) powered that car right into the 8s with a little help from fast gas.

6.

5. As the valve angle becomes a smaller angle, the chamber will also become shallower. A typical big-block 24-degree chamber is around 110 cc as with this one. A Dart 14-degree head will compress that volume down to 86 cc and the 11-degree heads will shrink it to less than 60 cc.

That’s a quick way to make compression.

6. A taller valve angle, which means anything taller than 24 degrees, will require a specific or custom piston to create the proper valve-topiston clearance. This is a new JE piston that is pre-configured for a 20-degree valve angle head.

As the valve angle changes this also alters the angle at which the valve approaches the piston. The original 2-degree roll from 26 to 24 degrees is slight enough that most off-the-shelf pistons can accommodate the change. A taller angle of 20 degrees or more will demand custom-cut pistons to offer proper piston-tovalve clearance. This is becoming prevalent enough that certain piston companies like JE are now making dedicated 20-degree valve angle pistons for larger-bore big-blocks.

Continuing the progression, the next Dart move was to 18- and 14-degree configurations. The taller, 14-degree version of these two Race Series castings offers up to a 440cc rectangle intake port that is intended for maximum Top Sportsman and Top Dragster applications for engines well in excess of 500 ci at 7,000 rpm and above. These monster castings feature 2.400-inch intake valves and 1.900-inch exhausts nestled in a compact 87cc chamber.

There are multiple advantages to smaller chambers beyond just the fact that compression is now easier to build without having to resort to huge piston domes that kill combustion efficiency. The most efficient combustion space is a near-flat piston with only small valve reliefs and no large lump that the flame front must negotiate. A flatter, more compact combustion area also requires less initial timing to make the best power.

Higher ignition timing numbers begin the combustion process early, which requires the engine to overcome increasing cylinder pressure before top dead center. Engineers call this negative work, which is subtracted from the engine’s actual power.

Valve angle migration has eventually led to the Big Chief II 11-degree, 555cc CNC oval-port maximum Top Sportsman head intended for 550ci and larger engines. This is a spreadport head, which means the intake ports are relocated farther apart with wider valve centerlines, raised intake and exhaust Note how as these heads move toward a taller intake valve angle ports that also demand their own intake manifold. Dart’s flow bench testing reveals intake flow numbers of 534 cfm using that combustion chambers also become more compact. The a 2.500-inch intake valve at a full inch of valve lift. Combine taller valve angle is the major contributor to this phenomenon. that with tiny 90cc combustion chambers and there are serious Especially with the huge 2.50-inch intake valves, a flatter entry angle into the chamber allows these larger valves and also does horsepower numbers that can be churned out on a big-inch Rat with these heads. not require as deep a chamber to accommodate them.

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7.

7. With changes to valve angles on a big-block, this often demands a custom guideplate. Dart has an adjustable guideplate that easily accommodates changes to the valve position that also relocates the studs and therefore the pushrod.

8. Most tall heads like these Dart 18-degree Big Chief heads will require a rocker shaft system like this T&D rocker shaft system.

Shaft rockers are much more stable than stud-mounted rockers and offer a superior valve control as a result.

8.

9.

10.

Do you need to go all the way to 14- or 11-degree heads to make big power?

Not if engine builder Ken Duttweiler’s experience is worthy of note. He recently built a 557ci big-block for George Poteet’s amazing Speed Demon streamliner in the quest to set the alltime AA/Blown Fuel Streamliner (AA/ BFS) record at Bonneville. Duttweiler used a pair of what some may consider conservative cast-aluminum Dart Pro1 Big Chief 20-degree heads that he bolted on with no port modifications. Of course it helps when you’re pushing air through these heads with up to 35 psi of boost using a pair of 88mm Precision turbochargers. That’s how you get to 3,156 hp at 8,300 rpm on methanol. Just let that sink in for a moment—3,156 hp!

The current approach to big Rat power is pushing massive amounts of air with superchargers and turbochargers, and this clearly benefits from all this enhanced cylinder head technology.

Most ideas that improve airflow and power on a normally aspirated engine will also apply to supercharged engines.

Often, they can enjoy even larger intake ports all in an effort to reduce restrictions to flow. Nobody could have guessed when the Pro Stock innovators like Reher-Morrison and Shepherd first experimented with moving ports and slicing up a set of big-block Chevy cylinder heads in the early ’80s that it would lead to this amazing collection of Rat-rolled valve angles. It’s all in the name of more horsepower. All you have to do is pick your angle of approach.

10. These 18-degree Dart Big Chief Pro 1 heads employ a spread port design with 424cc intake ports using 2.400/1.900-inch valves. Dart’s published flow numbers are 437 cfm at 28 Hg of water at 0.900-inch valve lift. That will pack some air into your cylinders!

9. Ken Duttweiler built the 557ci big-block Chevy engine for the Speed Demon, making as much as 3,156 hp on 3 psi of boost using a pair of 88mm turbochargers.

SOURCE DART MACHINERY (248) 362-1188 dartheads.com ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [64] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 8 • 2021

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FEATURE

SPLIT IN YOUR FACE

BY SCOTTY LACHENAUER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

I

n a time of national pandemic, most of our hobby’s typical car shows, cruiseins, and get-togethers have been canceled or postponed. Thus, finding new and interesting rides to brag about in this here magazine has become a little more difficult. However, we here at All Chevy Performance have learned to adapt to these trying times and some of us (including myself) have earnestly taken to the world of social media to find our next big feature car.

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RADICAL SECOND-GEN CAMARO IS THE BEST OF THIS GUY’S STASH ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

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While scrolling through some friends’ social pages I came upon a post by Keith Seaman, owner of KMS Kustoms in Ronkonkoma, New York. On his page I spied a menacing 1970 split bumper that had gone through a magical metal-metamorphosis of sorts. I had to ask Seaman who owned it. “Yeah, that’s Rocco’s Rescelo’s ride, and it’s nasty … you got to take a look at it.” So check it out, I did.

Rocco always has his eyes wide open, seeking out new rides to bring into the family stable. A while back, an interesting 1970 Camaro came up for sale locally. The car had been built up nicely by its previous owner, Pat Buono, who put a massive list of modern speed parts into the F-body, including a potent twin-turbo setup. The Camaro had been built by Buono and good friend Joe LaChance, who was the main welder and chief fabricator on the car. Their goal was to make this ride into an 8-second street terror. Though it wasn’t trashed, Rocco realized that this Bowtie bruiser could certainly be a treasure … with the right tweaking. A deal was quickly hashed-out and the Chevy soon joined the other top rides back at the shop.

through E85 carb with dual needles and seats. To get that power push, the previous owner installed a pair of S300 BorgWarner 66mm turbos, running dual JGS wastegates, Tial BOV, and an EV carb hat. Overall, the Camaro was properly built and done with kid gloves, but the setup was constantly having issues and just not compatible for street use. Rocco had ideas on how to fix this twin-twisted Camaro and get it back on the tarmac.

Next, Rocco put the Camaro up on the shop lift to check out the suspension. Chassis Engineering supplied a lot of the parts here, including a 2x3 back-half wishbone kit and a set of ladder bars. QA1 coilovers sit up front while a pair of Strange singleadjustable coilovers were installed out back. A Mustang II rack handles the job of keeping this missile pointed in the right direction and a pair of 2-inch drop spindles give the slight rake the owner was after.

The first thing in the Camaro to grab Rocco’s attention was the twin-turbo LS stuffed under the hood. The 408ci LS stroker had been put together on a wide-open budget, sporting a Manley forged rotating assembly at 9.6:1 compression, Trick Flow 225 aluminum heads, a Victor Jr. intake, and an HCS HP 1000 blow-

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The power from the LS is shifted through a reverse pattern JW TH400 built with an SFI bellhousing, a ProTorque 9.5-inch Revolution series converter, and cooled with a Derale trans cooler. A Precision Shaft Technologies 1350 3.5-inch chromoly driveshaft feeds a Chassis Engineering Fab9 housing stuffed with a Strange 9-inch HD aluminum centersection running 3.73 gears. Strange 40-spline axles twist the massive 15x15 Billet Specialties Street Lite double-beadlock wheels, which are shod in a set of 33x16 Hoosier Drag Slicks. Up front, Billet Specialties Comp 5 SFI wheels handle the chores and are skinned in Mickey Thompson ET tires. Braking is handled by

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a set of Stainless Steel Brake Company brakes up front and a pair of Strange discs out back.

The Camaro’s 12-point rollcage was an important part of the deal as the new owner had thoughts about bringing this F-body to the track. Certified to 8.50, it is an invaluable piece to the rebuild. Other standout features include the Custom Works fiberglass nose, AMD fenders, and new upper and lower front valences. Just before Rocco received the Camaro, it was basted in a fresh coat of gloss black and received all LED lighting and a blackout window tint to make this already menacing Camaro reach Darth Vader levels.

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To say Rocco was impressed would be the understatement.

However, there was still issues with the ill-performing LS. There was a lot of experimenting with poor results. “I tried hard with the carb setup but ended up blowing this engine three times over the year. After that, I decided that EFI was the only way to go,” Rocco says.

Out came the engine, off came the blow-through system, and in went a complete Holley EFI kit. To feed this beast, a Magnafuel Pro Tuner 750 fuel pump was placed out back feeding from a custom 17-gallon fuel cell fabricated by Custom Performance.

With the engine buttoned up, a Holley Pro 12 dash kit was sourced and installed in the VFN aftermarket fiberglass dash to help keep track of the vitals. Once that was complete, Rocco finished off the interior with a fresh set of door panels and new carpet to go along with the updated pieces in the cockpit.

It didn’t take Rocco long to get the Camaro back on the road and performing the way it should. “The blow-through just wasn’t working with this engine. I just felt that EFI was a much better way to go, plus I could tune it for the track as well,” Rocco says.

Once dialed in, the Camaro worked as it was meant to, pulling the kind of numbers muscle heads dream about.

Rocco has plenty of people to thank: a group who has been alongside him throughout his years in the hobby. “I’d like to first thank my pit crew, Paully, Jesse, Justin, Kenny, Dane, Anthony, Kevin, and Mullet. They help me out when we hit the track. I would also like to thank Pat and the Galesi Group for helping out on the photo shoot and giving us a great place to show what this ride has got.

TECH OWNER: Rocco Rescelo, Schenectady, New York VEHICLE: 1970 Camaro Engine TYPE: LS2 DISPLACEMENT: 408 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 9.6:1 BORE: 4.00 STROKE: 4.00 CYLINDER HEADS: Trick Flow 225 aluminum heads ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Manley 4340 4.00-inch crank, Manley Forged pistons, Manley 4340 Forged H-beam rods VALVETRAIN: Comp Cams pushrods, LS7 lifters CAMSHAFT: BTR Stage Four Turbo Cam (0.612/0.610-inch lift, 243/239 deg. duration at 0.050, 115 deg. LSA) INDUCTION: Holley EFI, Magnafuel Pro Tuner 750 fuel pump, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator IGNITION: Holley EXHAUST: 3-inch stainless pipe ANCILLARIES: Two BorgWarner S300 66mm turbos, Tial Q Bov, JGS wastegates OUTPUT (at crank): 1,300 hp Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: JW TH400, Pro Torque Revolution Series 9.5 converter, SFI bellhousing and brake REAR AXLE: Chassis Engineering Fab9 housing with back brace, Strange 9-inch Pro HD aluminum centersection with 3.73 gears, Strange 40-spline axles Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: QA1 Aluminum Pro front coilovers, 2-inch drop spindles, Mustang II rack-and-pinion REAR SUSPENSION: Chassis Engineering 2x3 back-half, wishbone, and ladder bars; Strange single-adjustable rear coilovers BRAKES: Stainless Steel Brake Company front disc, Strange rear disc Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Billet Specialties Comp 5 SFI 15x3.5 front, Billet Specialties Street Lite Double Beadlock 15x15 rear TIRES: Mickey Thompson ET 26x4.5x15 front, Hoosier Drag Slicks 33x16x15 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: Unknown MATERIAL: Vinyl SEATS: ProCar STEERING: Sparco SHIFTER: Hurst DASH: VFN fiberglass dash INSTRUMENTATION: Holley 12.3 Pro dash gauge kit Exterior BODYWORK: Unknown PAINT BY: Unknown PAINT: Black with GM Iridium Metallic Stripe HOOD: 8-inch cowl GRILLE: Custom Works fiberglass nose piece BUMPERS: Original

Lastly and most importantly, I’d like to thank my dad for taking the time to bring me into this hobby and teaching me all about horsepower and cool rides. I wouldn’t be where I am without him,” Rocco says.

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COILOVER BASICS

WHY YOU WANT COILOVERS AND HOW TO USE THEM

BY JESSE KISER

H

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

ot rodding is a complicated, nuanced hobby, but part of its appeal is its science. Bench racing new techniques and analyzing successes and failures make it exciting. The car community is filled with us nerds trying to find our cars’ hidden, untapped potentials.

McPherson-style coilover designs, coilovers typically change ride height by changing the preload of the spring.

Does ride height change affect the performance of the coilover?

Essentially, no. “There’s no detriment to changing ride height,” Saffell says. “Not until you get into an extreme situation like coil bind or being fully extended. The shocks will feel the same and Suspension is the occasionally overlooked area that can garner huge improvements with your worn-out muscle car, and coilovers operate the same, for the most part. Most shocks aren’t position sensitive in that respect, but there are exceptions.” are a modern solution to vintage problems. They replace heavy springs and shocks with a package that’s easy to install, tune, Most manufacturers will anticipate ¾ inch in or out with preload and is significantly lighter. They can make drastic changes to adjustment on top of the ride height range. For example, a company your car’s driving characteristics. might list that their coilovers offer 2 inches of ride height change, Coilovers are a nicely packaged piece of performance goodness, like most muscle car applications. So, when you’re at the bottom of those 2 inches, your coilover should still maintain around ¾ inch of but what should you consider when purchasing, how do you preload. Reliable companies, like those sourced in this article, will adjust them, and what are their differences? We break it down anticipate ride height change within the range of preload. from a hot-rodding perspective—a degree in fluid dynamics not necessary.

How Coilover Suspension Works Springs keep your wheels planted to maintain traction. After What are Coilover Shocks?

Coilovers are, just as the name says, a coil spring that sits over a spring compression, shocks then control that spring’s rebound when they bounce back. “Shocks are a dampening and timing shock. Traditional coil springs are heavy hot-rolled metal, but device that resists movement,” Saffell says. coilovers feature much smaller cold-rolled springs, typically a 2.5-inch id.

Inside the shock body is a piston surrounded by hydraulic fluid “Coilovers are the most cost-effective way of lowering your car,” and connected to the inner rod. The fluid moves to either side of the piston as the shock moves up and down. The rate at Aldan American owner Garrett Harmola says. Fine-tuning ride which the fluid moves is determined by tiny holes in the piston. height is arguably the most helpful feature of coilovers.

“The valve plates allow the fluid to flow through, and as you compress, it restricts the flow. When you separate those plates “The stance can be perfect. When you have the spring mounted on the shock, you can start to adjust up and down within reason,” to allow more or less, you’re adjusting the speed of the shock,” AFCO national accounts manager Eric Saffell says. Excluding some Strange Engineering sales manager J.C. Casio says.

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1.

Manufacturers and shock tuners can adjust the holes with valves with different size holes (they look like washers or plates).

“Valving” a shock can drastically change its characteristics. It can get more complicated, especially when you add nitrogen, which adds consistency to the shock’s fluid.

“The valving is where the magic is. We try to make a range of valving in a shock that’s significant enough to change the car. We have valving packages. If you get someone with standard valving, but they want stiffer, we can re-valve it and shift that valving range,” Casio says.

Bolt-In Coilovers Versus Eyelet Coilovers

1. OEM coil spring and shock on the left, with the replacement Aldan American coilover on the right. “You’re dealing with a spring that’s ¼th or ¹/ 5th the weight of an old coil spring,” Harmola says. This kit will be used on a G-body project in a future issue of All Chevy Performance magazine.

2. MRC Fabrication is test-fitting its control arms on a customer’s chassis here. We start by making the lower control arm level with the ground.

2.

Coilovers traditionally feature mounting on either end in the form of an eyelet or bushing mount, excluding McPherson style, which typically has a solid lower mount and upper shock-tower mount. The eyelets usually require a new upper support and lower control arm. Many builders now offer kits, such as weld-in upper brackets and bolt-on tubular control arms, with coilover mounts. There are also options like RideTech and QA1 who offer a strut-style top mount.

It’s a traditional-looking coilover but a top mount that mimics that of an OEM shock, so it can mount into the stock frame pocket without modification.

More companies have introduced bolt-in coilovers for muscle cars where the top of the spring and shock is identical to the OEM spring/shock. These lay into the factory frame spring pocket and shock mount. At the bottom is a bushing-mounted T-bar designed to mount where the OEM shock would bolt.

It’s a hybrid style that makes for super easy installation, no spring compressor needed, yet provides ample ride height adjustment and tunability. How do these compare to a “real” coilover with solid eyelets mounts on either end?

The car sits on the spring, but the brunt of the coilover’s action is translated into the lower control arm, which is solidly mounted. “… There’s no real determent in performance,” Harmola says.

Essentially, both a bolt-in coilover and an eyelet-to-eyelet coilover will perform very similarly, with little performance left on the table. However, the bolt-in kits require a tapered spring that’s large at the top and 2.5 inches at the bottom. The industry standard is a 2.5-inch id spring and therefore many more options for springs are available for traditional-style coilovers. Pricing is similar, with tapered springs only being around 5 percent more expensive, but you must consider the costs of mounting requirements like lower control arms and top brackets/mounts.

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3.

“An eyelet-to-eyelet coilover would be the most durable application, as you have zero flex at the mounting points, no binds, and no deflection from bearings or grommets.

But the shock will still perform essentially the same,” Saffell says.

How to Purchase Purchasing a bolt-in coilover kit from a reliable manufacturer is the easiest way—that’s a given. But if ordering a custom or bolt-on kit, you need to measure and consider some basics.

3. Next, we measure from eyelit to eyelit to determine the length of a coilover, which is 15 ³/8 inches. Now, we can jump into a manufacturer catalog and find a coilover with a ride height measuring around 15 ³/8 inches.

4.

“We do our best to make a single part number solution, but with different things like wheels, tires, and control arms, we need a ride height measurement to get it exact,” Harmola says.

“First thing, set a goal and stick to it,” Saffell says.

“Understand what you need. Is it a nonadjustable shock with the proper valving or double adjustable? You can start to hone in on what your shock needs to be.”

Set the car at the ideal ride height using blocks, jackstands, and/or jacks, just do it safely. However, you can still ruin your suspension performance if you put your suspension in a bind. If the ride height is too low or too high you’ll wear out components fast and possibly break something.

Check that the lower control arm is level with the ground.

Ideally, your ball joints and tires will have a solid starting point before suspension travel.

Now, measure your mounting positions. Eyelet coilovers measure from the center of the eyelet on either side.

Strut-mounted coilovers measure from the bottom washer under the rubber grommets to the lower mount or eyelet centerline.

“Manufacturers should show a compressed dimension and an extended dimension, center of the mount to center of the mount. Look for a shock that puts your measurements right in the middle. That’ll give you room for ride height changes,” Saffell says.

4. The packaging of coilovers gives another opportunity in mounting. When a coilover is straight up it’s working at 100 percent, but when it’s laid over it’s the equivalent of changing to a softer spring. In this instance, it allows for a quick adjustment in the spring’s performance at the track. It’s recommended to lean a coilover between 5-30 degrees in certain street or road race/autocross applications.

Next, weigh your car. Front/rear weights will help determine spring rate. “I took my first car to a truck stop.

I got total weight, rolled back tires off to get front-only weight, and rolled front tires off to get rear weight. Then went in and got my ticket,” Saffell says.

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5.

Most manufacturers agree that setting the car up from the very beginning is vital in achieving a quality suspension refinement.

Adjustments You’ve maybe tried wrenching your shock adjustments around and notice no changes from the driver seat. It’ll cause you to wonder if you’re a terrible driver or you waste your money on new shocks.

But it’s vital to consider several things before you start twisting on the adjustment knobs.

5. Here’s an example of improper geometry. A chassis brought to MRC Fabrication from another builder who ordered the wrong coilovers by mistake, or on purpose. The angle of the control arm is upward pointing toward the top of the tire. That angle will be exaggerated further when the weight of a drivetrain and body are added. Ultimately, this current arrangement will end up with less than an inch of travel and worn-out components like tires and ball joints. Longer coilovers will remedy this issue.

6

“Setup in terms of preload …” Harmola says. “You’re 95 percent of the way there. Then you can fine-tune the adjustment. With a track car, you may be swapping springs on race day, but not in a street car. Get that stuff right out of the gate.”

You should measure your car’s ride height before and after installing coilovers. Most manufacturers suggest around 1 inch of preload on the coilovers to start with. But once installed, measure the ride height on all corners and go from there.

For performance sake you want your car low, but not low enough to damage something or bind suspension components. “When we build a chassis, we already know what tires and combo we’re running, so we’ll build things into the chassis like a level lower control arm,” MRC Fab owner Jimmy Bullard says. “If you’re swapping from coil springs to coilover though you have to work with what you have.”

6. Left is a hybrid coilover (not the technical name) that fits into an OEM spring cup and shock mount. On the right is a rear coilover that features a bushing mount. The rubber shock mount is primarily there for noise. Both coilovers will work similarly in performance.

7.

7. Here’s a Strange Engineering lower shock T-bar. This is what takes the brunt of the force applied. The top of the shock or coilover is less important in terms of performance.

With a level lower control arm and preload above the recommended minimum (typically ¾ to 1 inch), you can then begin to play with your settings. Weight distribution plays a role in ride height as well. Before leaving for an autocross or road racing event, Jimmy and team will mark the vehicle’s frame height on all four corners, then reference it throughout the weekend.

The team may make mounting position or spring changes and then reset the ride height to their marks. This will allow for precise individual adjustments.

Fine-Tuning A single-adjustable coilover adjusts rebound and compression together, as either stiffer or softer. Double-adjustable shocks allow you to adjust rebound and compression independently of each other. This allows for a more precious adjustment. According to Strange Engineering, the ability to independently adjust both extension and compression allows the chassis tuner complete dampening control of the vehicle’s suspension.

Be careful when you start making adjustments though, “If you got someone going under the car who starts spinning knobs there are ways to get lost if you don’t know what you’re doing.

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It’s trial and error,” Casio says. “You get the question of where I should set these, but if I could tell you that then we wouldn’t need adjustment knobs. The baseline is important from the car, then adjust one or two settings at a time and make notes. It’s important to put the time in to see what the car likes.”

“The better the shock, the more you can feel the change when you make a click,” Saffell says. When it comes to feeling a change in valving from the seat of the pants, the shocks that are of better construction, higher quality can typically produce that change more readily. A budget-minded shock is more difficult to achieve noticeable changes from click to click.

You get what you pay for, and if your goal is to have a suspension package that responds to change and you can feel it behind the wheel then “you should opt for as good of components as you can afford. Nothing is more frustrating than spending your money, looking for results, not realizing those results, and having remorse,” Saffell says. “Now you have to buy that component a second time. Always best to buy the component once.”

try to bounce off the rim of the track,” Casio says. “But if it’s not enough the tire will spin. You want to run your suspension as stiff as possible without spinning the tire.”

In autocross, you want that very first movement to be firm. That’s where valving plays a significant role in resisting the shock’s movement. “Like an oil pump, the faster the speed, the more the pressure. You want that first movement to be firm. You build it as soon as the piston starts to move. You want to have a lot of force to control body roll,” Saffell says.

“Big wheelstands are cool but that’s basically the chassis trying to drive out from under the car. It’s wasted energy. It looks great but hurts e.t.’s,” Casio says.

SOURCES AFCO RACING (800) 632-2320 afcoracing.com ALDAN AMERICAN (310) 834-7478 aldanamerican.com

Drag Racing Versus Autocross Weight transfer makes traction, but it’s very different between street, road race/autocross, and drag racing. There’s a range of settings between wheelies and spinning the tires.

“It’s that initial movement on a drag car that’s important. So, if you have a loose extension of the shock it’s throwing that tire into the ground. That can be good, but if it’s too aggressive it’ll

8. Pictured left is the new hybrid coilover spring, and right an aftermarket lowering coil spring. You can see the size difference, with the new spring being lighter.

8.

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MRC FABRICATION instagram.com/mrcfabbullard/ STRANGE ENGINEERING (800) 646-7618 strangeengineering.net

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ACP TECH It’s been a long while since our 1969 Camaro has seen the light of day. A very clean, solid, example. The goal is to make it run first and trick it out later.

BY ACP STAFF

BRINGING A GEN I CAMARO BACK TO LIFE

VIDEOGRAPHY BY RYAN FOSS PRODUCTIONS

RESURRECTION D uring the ’60s Chevrolet had endured a barrage of negative publicity surrounding the Corvair (primarily due to Ralph Nader and his book Unsafe At Any Speed), but their reputation would soon be salvaged as they had decided to enter the ponycar wars. The allnew Camaro was introduced in September of 1966 to compete with Ford’s Mustang that had been introduced in April of 1964, and the 1964 Plymouth Barracuda, which debuted roughly two weeks earlier than Ford’s new offering.

The first-generation of Camaros were produced for the 19671969 model years and were based on GM’s F-body, rear-wheeldrive platform. For the 1967-1968 model year, the sheetmetal was unchanged, for the most part, but there were a few minor exceptions. The most obvious differences for 1968 were the new front and rear marker lights and the elimination of vent windows in the doors. Then, in 1969, a new body was introduced that looked longer and lower but still retained the appeal that had made the Camaro such a success.

While all Camaros are popular, the first-gen series remained one of the most sought-after cars in the ranks of Chevrolet fans, and every once in a while a solid original example is discovered like

the one we have here. This 1969 coupe came from Texas where it had been sitting in a private collection for what was estimated to be 10-15 years. The owner didn’t know much about the car, but the body was surprisingly nice, the engine had a fresh coat of paint, but its condition was unknown (the owner couldn’t verify if it had been rebuilt) and there were a few new parts, like the A/C compressor and hoses.

With the Chevy delivered to the In The Garage Media tech center, the first order of business was to evaluate this diamond in the rough and make any necessary repairs to get it back on the road. We are going to need a lot parts, and to restore this Camaro to like new, we need the OE fit, form, and function Duralast provides. These parts have the coverage and quality we need and with Jason Scudellari’s skills we’re going to conquer this job!

A visual inspection of the engine didn’t reveal any obvious problems. In some cases we’d do a compression or leak-down test to determine an engine’s condition, but everything was intact, there were no missing parts or bolts, and no massive oil leaks, so Scudellari elected to do some basic maintenance and hope for the best.

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1. Nothing was known about the 307 small-block but it did have fresh paint, so Jason Scudellari decide to give it a tune-up with Duralast Ignition components to find out if it would run.

2. Pulling the plugs revealed that the last time the engine ran it was really rich, but we had no way of knowing why, so a fresh set of plugs were installed.

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3. In some cases with an engine of unknown origin a compression test is a good way to evaluate its condition.

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4. Another method of assessing an engine’s condition is with a leak-down test, which will indicate where a cylinder is losing compression. We elected to forgo both tests and get the engine running first.

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5. Never trust spark plug gaps out of the box, as these two examples show. Check the ignition specifications and gap them appropriately.

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6. It was anyone’s guess the last time this engine ran, so Scudellari gave each cylinder a light shot of upper cylinder lubricant.

7. Somewhere in the Camaro’s past the original distributor was replaced with a more modern HEI that uses this large-diameter rotor.

Distributor caps and rotors should always be replaced together.

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8. If you plan a similar swap the resistance wire for the original distributor must be replaced with a new wire to ensure the electronic innards get a full 12 V. Here, the new Duralast distributor cap has been installed.

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9. For comparison, here is the old HEI distributor cap compared to the original 1969-style Duralast replacement.

10. Dielectric grease is commonly used on spark plug boots to make them easily removable—it should also be applied to both sides of the insulator disc when changing an HEI coil.

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11. The new Duralast HEI coil (PN C834) meets or exceeds OE quality and comes with a limited lifetime warranty.

12. Duralast spark plug wire kits (PN 4061) are affordable, come with terminals installed on both ends, and pre-greased silicone spark plug boots ensure easy installation and removal.

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13. To make sure the engine’s oil pressure came up immediately, Scudellari filled the new STP filter (PN S8873XL) with STP 10W-40 oil prior to installation.

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14. With the filter in place, Scudellari filled the crankcase with STP Pro Formula oil. With an engine that has been sitting for a long time it’s not a bad idea to do another oil and filter change after a few miles to remove any contaminants in the engine that may have accumulated after sitting for an extended period.

15. It was obvious that the battery and cables would have to be changed.

With terminals this corroded it’s wise to check the battery tray and surrounding sheetmetal for damage.

16.

The first step was a basic tune-up. A new set of spark plugs (PN AC R43S) were gapped and installed along with a new distributor cap (PN DR976) and rotor (PN DR969) (sometime in the Camaro’s past the original point-controlled distributor was swapped for a GM HEI that wasn’t introduced until late 1974).

If you plan a similar swap, the resistance wire for the original distributor must be replaced with a new wire to ensure the electronic innards get a full 12 V. Basic tune-ups are simple, but if you haven’t done this before, when changing the distributor cap and wires, mark the location of the number one wire on the distributor for reference. With the new cap in place, install the number one wire, then going clockwise from there, install the remaining wires in the firing order, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (cylinders on the driver side; front to back the cylinders are numbered 1-3-57, on the passenger side front to back are 2-4-6-8).

With fresh Duralast Ignition components in place, Scudellari changed the oil and filter but there was one last item to address: the battery and cables had long outlived their usefulness. Not only was the battery beyond charging, the bolt in the positive battery cable was so corroded it couldn’t be removed, so Scudellari got creative and cut the cable to get the battery out. (With an old corroded battery removed it’s a good time to neutralize the acid on the battery tray and the surrounding area with a combination of baking soda and water.) Keep in mind when replacing battery cables, red cables are positive, black cables are negative, and there’s more to them than color. Positive terminals on top-post batteries are larger diameter than the negative and the cables reflect that difference.

16. For the starting power we needed, Scudellari installed a Duralast Gold group 24 size battery (PN 24-DLG). It has 875 cranking amps (700 cold cranking amps), 130 minutes of reserve capacity, and comes with a threeyear warranty.

17. When changing cables always remove the negative cable first and install it last. If the wrench hits metal on the negative there’s no spark, and with it disconnected if the wrench is on the positive cable and hits metal there’s no spark because there isn’t a complete circuit.

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After a tune-up, a fresh battery, and a tank full of fresh fuel, our Camaro fired right up.

The carburetor was temperamental at first, but that was easily solved with a light love tap. After a few minutes and a backfire or two, the 307 ran like a watch and passed its first drive test with flying colors. A little time, some OE-quality Duralast parts, and our long-neglected Camaro was back on the road where it belongs.

If you’ve got a project car gathering dust, follow our lead, get it running, and go have some fun.

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18. With a fresh tank of fuel, Scudellari primed the carburetor then hit the switch and the engine struggled to life surprisingly fast.

19. Due to a malfunctioning needle and seat the two-barrel carburetor was overflowing. Using the time-honored method of giving the float bowl a gentle wrap with a hammer solved the problem (note the float bowl vent is disconnected from the evaporative control canister—that will be addressed).

20. For the first time in years, the Camaro is back on the street. We’re happy to report it runs great—but there is more work to be done, as you’ll soon see.

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CRUSTY CAMAROS A PAIR OF 1969 REST IN RUST S

BY STEVE MAGNANTE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

I

n 1969, Chevrolet built and sold 243,085 Camaros. It was the final year for the first-generation (1967-1969) of GM’s reply to the Ford Mustang–inspired ponycar craze.

While any Camaro today is prized, adored, and kept in pristine condition as a favorite toy and investment (in equal parts), it wasn’t always that way.

This writer was hatched in 1964 and though not old enough to have driven first-gen Camaros as new cars, I painfully recall being 10 years old and seeing fleets of rusty, crusty, neglected Camaros rattling along the New England streets of my youth.

Thanks (?) to the prodigious amount of road salt used in the wintertime, even GM’s best zinc-chromate body dip was no match for the dreaded tin worm. By 1974, Camaros that saw year-round use displayed deep scars and gashes. My then 10-year-old mind watched countless Camaros wither into dust.

Spotted in rural Connecticut, not far from Paul Newman’s Ashford, Connecticut, Hole In The Wall Gang camp for kids, this Hugger Orange 1969 appears to be a true Z27 Super Sport. The base engine that came with the SS was the 300hp L48 350 small-block, as indicated by the “350” fender emblems. An extra $63.20 could have elevated this one to base SS 396 status via the 325hp L35 big-block.

It may look like a priceless American Racing magnesium Torq-Thrust wheel, but the thin bead of the steel inner rim pops the illusion. This is probably a Fenton five-spoke copy. Much heavier than the one-piece magnesium or aluminum wheels they mimicked, these knockoffs consist of a traditional steel rim hoop with a cast-aluminum five-spoke spider mated to the center. Great lookers, “day two” mods like this were the thing to do. This SS was delivered new with body-colored 14x7 steel wheels with small center caps, unless the buyer coughed up an extra $35.85 for the 14x7 ZJ7 Rally Wheels.

In this sampling, let’s explore a pair of 1969s that succumbed to the rust monster but somehow managed to hold on as relics of bygone days. In both cases, their owners “have plans” but since brand-new 1969 Camaro body shells are readily available from Dynacorn and similar outfits, perhaps the best route might be to let them sit as warnings to never, ever expose your favorite car to the hazards of road salt!

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Oh man, those hideaway headlamps are so seductive! Part of the $131.65 Z22 Rally Sport package, which is also known as the mighty RS, these 1969 units incorporate three thin horizontal slits of translucent plastic behind finned metal grates. Aside from emphasizing the Camaro’s wide and low body lines, the slits allowed enough light to shine through in the event of a headlamp door actuation failure, a none-too-rare occurrence. Just 37,773 Camaros got the RS treatment out of the 243,085-car production run.

Though a 1969 Camaro VIN doesn’t confirm anything beyond what engine it was originally built with (third character in VIN is 4 for a V-8, 3 for an inline-six), the presence of items like the “ice tray” hood vents help build a case for true SS 350 status. Though non-functional, these die-cast metal inserts are standard on every SS. Ironically, the über-exotic Z/28 came standard with the same flat skin hood used on lowly six-bangers. Zee buyers had to pay an extra $79 for the vaunted cowl induction hood, which was also available as a step up from this “ice tray” hood on Super Sports.

Another day two addition are these hood pins. Instead of the usual “hair pin” some ingenious rodder substituted double-nutted bolts to keep unwanted fingers away.

Though not as effective as the tiny padlocks sometimes used, a thief would waste several minutes spinning away on a 3/8-inch wrench for access. Then again, what to do in case of an engine fire? Precious seconds fiddling with these things could result in total loss. Dig the peeling paint!

Inside we are pleased to see a clutch pedal and factory-original floor shift pass-through hole atop the tunnel. The shiny circular emblem on the brake pedal tells of power front disc brakes, which were included in the Super Sport’s $295.95 price tag. We can’t assume this was a four-speed. The base SS transmission was the floor-shifted, threespeed manual. You paid another $195.40 for a four-speed.

As grizzly as a decaying deer carcass on the side of the road, shocking amounts of rust and structural corrosion have taken hold. As an SS 350, dual exhaust was standard issue but it is a little known fact that option N10 added true, full-length dual exhaust to the economy-minded 307 and 350 two-barrel V-8s for just $30.55.

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Speaking of economy-minded Camaros, here’s another 1969 discovered in Massachusetts.

The base plastic grille’s blue plastic Bowtie emblem contrasts brightly against the Dover White body hue.

Though the 1969 production run began with the 210hp 327 two-barrel as the base V-8, the 200hp 307 replaced it mid year. Just five cubes away from the legendary 302, the 307 was a whole different kettle of fish. Unlike the highrevving 302’s 4.00x3.00-inch bore and stroke, the 307 had a smaller 3.875-inch bore and longer 3.250-inch stroke than the 302. Also fitted with small-valve, small-port heads and a two-barrel carburetor (no four-barrel 307s ever), the idea was to favor low-end torque over high-rpm horsepower, the perfect strategy for utilitarian family hauling. The base V-8 costing just $106 more than the base 140hp, 230-cube six. Six-cylinder fanatics looking for more could pay an extra $26.35 for the 155hp 250 Turbo-Thrift six-banger.

A big surprise inside: It’s a four-speed! Expecting the base three-onthe-floor or a sleepy Powerglide automatic, this Camaro was ordered by someone who appreciated the man-machine connection only a four-speed can provide. For $195.40, Chevrolet charged an extra $53.75 for the nifty DD55 center console. Dig the four-speed H-pattern plate next to the shifter hole. Most assuredly an M20 wide-ratio four-speed with a 2.56:1 First-gear ratio instead of the 2.20:1 First-gear ratio used in the close-ratio M21 and M22 units, the extra torque multiplication helped improve standing start acceleration and was actually a better around-town transmission.

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Missing its Rochester two-barrel carburetor, the original 307 remains underhood. The non-assist brake booster speaks to this car’s four-wheel drum brakes.

Front power discs were offered under RPO J52 for $64.25. Also offered but rarely appreciated were JL8 four-wheel power disc brakes. Priced at a whopping $500.30, just 206 Camaros got ’em in 1969. These JL8 Camaros are royalty today. Beware, very convincing reproductions are readily available today.

The original 10-bolt rear axle and leaf springs are missing but the standard passenger-side exhaust pipe hanger remains attached to the rotten framerail.

Again, for an extra $30.55 option N10 added dual exhaust to any two-barrel Camaro engine. Just 5,545 307, 327, and 350 buyers went for it. When so equipped, the factory horsepower rating was not changed, though the reduced exhaust back pressure was surely worth 5-10 hp.

Like its orange SS 350 cousin, this 307 four-speed suffers from acute rust out. It’s hard to imagine this one as a shiny new car sitting on a dealership sales floor, but it was so.

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