JH 6KU MYQ

July 2021

75+

recipes

Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine

S E M I T D O O G E T CELEBRA

summer with friends • Glorious peach panna cotta trifle • Fresh seafood rolls on the beach • Smoky chilli by the campfire • Fall-off-thebone BBQ ribs

EASIEST EVER NO COOK MEALS

BUY THE BEST Good Food’s Summer Taste Awards £5.25

TOM KERRIDGE’S chilli-glazed leg of lamb

LEARN TO MAKE

Perfect crumbly scones • Classic butter chicken Next level chocolate ice cream

THE HOUSE

by Clarence Court

Each freshly laid Clarence Court egg is unique. These colourful treasures are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating from rare breed ancestors. Their heritage gives them a unique hue and flavour reminiscent of a bygone era. For eggs how they should be, simply look for the crown.

Welcome to

July

New!

HEALTH PODCAST

Host Tracey Raye explores health and wellness with experts including Joe Wicks and Dr Drew Ramsey in this new series, out every Wednesday with a bonus cookalong episode on Saturdays.

Listen on bbcgoodfood.com, Acast, iTunes and more.

Our commitment At Immediate Media, publishers of BBC Good Food, we respect and value differences. We understand that when people from different backgrounds and with different points of view work together, we can create the most value – for our readers, our people and society. We always strive to be inclusive, but we need to do better. We have been taking time to listen and understand how we can make positive changes, and how we can better support and increase diversity across all our brands.

We have begun work on a comprehensive plan to create and drive authentic change.

Melissa Thompson knows her way around a barbecue. ‘Fire cooking is primal, a universal language that transcends barriers, nationalities and languages. From suya, jerk and barbacoa to braai, yakitori, tandoori and British bangers, I love it all,’ she says. This month, she invites us to make new discoveries by asking leading chefs and authors to share their favourite dishes and memories of meals cooked over coals (p128).

Chef Tom Kerridge continues the theme with four spectacular weekend grills that use lively ingredients such as miso, gochujang, maple and chilli – guaranteed to fill your garden (or kitchen) with deliciously smoky aromas (p86).

There’s much to celebrate as we reconnect with family and friends, so please enjoy our 21-page outdoor cooking special (p33). We’re here to make your summer sizzle!

Star contributors Michelle Miah The co-owner of Rudie’s Jerk Shack talks to Tony Naylor about Jamaican cuisine (p134) and shares her brown stew chicken recipe on page 136.

Nikita Gulhane Make Nikita’s butter chicken (p108), then listen in as he chats on the Rookie & Nice Podcast (Acast, iTunes, Spotify and bbcgoodfood.com/feature/podcasts).

Tom Kerridge Gather family and friends for a barbecue with Tom’s inventive recipes, from miso mushroom burgers to paper bag prawns (p86).

Victoria Moore Nothing says ‘summer’ like a glass of rosé, and Victoria rounds up her favourite bottles for whiling away sunny afternoons on page 133.

WE ARE Christine Hayes, editor-in-chief christine.hayes@immediate.co.uk @bbcgoodfood

COOK THE COVER p48 RECIPE

Subscribe to BBC Good Food this month Join our Subscriber Club and get access to exclusive free events, discounted special offers and much more. Find out how on page 54.

Cassie Best PHOTOGRAPH

Tom Regester FOOD STYLIST

Katie Giovanni STYLIST

Agathé Gits SHOOT DIRECTOR

Ben Curtis JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 3

SEIZE THE SEASONING! For four generations we have been hand-harvesting our pyramid-shaped flakes, using the same simple, time-honoured techniques. Pinch, crush or crumble, for fantastic flavour at your fingertips.

maldonsalt.com

@maldonsalt

Inside JULY 2021 COOK’S CALENDAR 15

WEEKEND

Discover what to do in your kitchen this month, plus shopping inspiration and Sat Bains’ filling breakfast

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COVER STORY 33

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CELEBRATE SUMMER

Enjoy a day at the beach, sunny picnic or fun camping trip with the recipes in our 21-page special

EASY

MIDWEEK

58

NO-COOK DINNERS

64

FRIDAY NIGHT TREAT

66

USE YOUR LEFTOVERS

Keep cool with satisfying meals that can be made without the hob or oven

98

60

69

ONE-POT MEALS

77

FAMILY MATTERS

Take the kids along to a family-friendly festival, plus make minestrone together

107

122 128

81 83

133

HEALTH NEWS

Advice for warmer weather and a meze-style recipe HEALTHY DIET PLAN

134

Transport yourself to the Mediterranean with a bowl of nutritious seafood spaghetti 5 WAYS

How to make more of a can of chickpeas

90

Bake a salami stromboli to keep on standby in the freezer

KNOW YOUR STUFF

Expert cooking tips and kitchen know-how, plus recipes for next-level chocolate ice cream and a tequila-based cocktail

OPINION

HEALTH

78

FROZEN ASSETS

COOKING SKILLS

34

Cook quick and easy dinners that everyone is sure to love

SUMMER STARS

Make the most of July’s produce with our recipes

a traditional recipe

Serve a fakeaway for two with our beer-battered fish burgers

FAMILY

Tom Kerridge’s sizzling ideas for the barbecue can also be made indoors if the weather isn’t on your side

SCONES TWO WAYS 100 The cookery team reinvent

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What to do with what’s left from this month’s recipes

COME RAIN OR SHINE

SUMMER TASTE AWARDS

Discover the winners of this year’s awards, featuring the best supermarket buys for barbecues, picnics and more MELISSA THOMPSON

Try a new style of barbecue dish with Melissa’s top picks, from barbacoa to yakitori VICTORIA MOORE

Welcome the warmer months with Victoria’s selection of refreshing rosés MY FAVOURITE DISH

Tony Naylor talks to Michelle Miah, co-owner of Rudie’s Jerk Shack, about the food of Jamaica, and she shares her brown stew chicken recipe

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 5

Why you can trust

EVERY ISSUE 9

RECIPE INDEX Where to find all the recipes in this issue

10 54

YOUR FEEDBACK Share your

82 103 146

views and photos with us SUBSCRIBER CLUB Find out about exclusive offers LEARN ONLINE Don’t miss our webinars and promotions NEXT MONTH What’s coming up in our August issue

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Biggestandbest We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and confident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their fields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookbooks feature our trusted recipes – you’ll find these in bookshops.

TONIGHT’S SPECIAL

Make our BLT panzanella

READER OFFERS • Grow your own fruit with offers from YouGarden, p80 • Save over 40% on a case of white wine from Laithwaites, p104 • Order a build-your-own BBQ box from Hook ‘N’ Block, p106 • Book an eight-day cruise through Venice and the surrounding islands with Prue Leith, p131

Recipesforeveryone There are at least 70 new recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain.

We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our regular easiest-ever recipes.

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Testedandtrusted All our recipes are all thoroughly tested by experts to ensure they’ll work for you. We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us.

Ethical We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world.

In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, high-welfare chicken and eggs and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #FridayFood challenge, when we use up leftovers).

HOW TO CONTACT US GENERAL ENQUIRIES

0207 150 5865 (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm) goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk BBC Good Food, Immediate Media, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT

BBC Good Food is the UK’s No 1 food lifestyle media brand. We are passionate about food and cooking. While recipes are at the heart of what we do, we are committed to helping you have the best food experience you can, whether you’re shopping for food, in your kitchen or eating out in the UK or abroad. This is what we promise…

Healthyeating Every recipe is analysed by our BANT-registered nutritionist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We flag up vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 145.

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Familiesandchildren Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by flagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes that help them to learn new skills.

Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/family-kids.

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Foodisourpassionandpleasure We take food seriously, but we also believe it’s a pleasure to be enjoyed, whether cooking for the family, trying an unfamiliar ingredient, buying new products or eating out. We share our food discoveries and adventures with you – and love you to share the same with us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat.

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Bee kind

When we take care of our world, our world takes care of us. That’s why Jordans Cereals is helping keep bees buzzing in California’s almond groves ho doesn’t enjoy the sweet crunch of a delicious almond? But what isn’t so sweet is the fact these flavourful nuts are often grown as a monoculture, which can be bad for our bees.

Because monocultures comprise a single crop being grown in the same soil (which can also lead to soil erosion), pollinators struggle to access the diverse range of plants they need to stay healthy.

To help serve the needs of bees and increase sustainability, Jordans Cereals has teamed up with Project Apis m. on its Seeds for Bees® project.

Just as the Jordans Farm Partnership makes space on British oat farms for biodiversity, Seeds for Bees® introduces biodiversity into Californian almond groves, creating a ‘bee buffet’ that promotes soil health and helps pollinators thrive. Using cover crops and seed mixes that are specially formulated to bloom before the almond blossom does,

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they’re able to provide a source of forage for honeybees when natural forage may be scarce.

Busy for the bees Just like humans, bees react better to stressors when they’ve had a good feed. With better nutrition, they’re more likely to fend off parasites and pathogens and stay healthier in the face of threats. In short, healthier bees mean stronger hives and better pollination. And, the Seeds for Bees® support doesn’t end after the almond trees bloom. Instead, the project provides nutrition and habitat for native pollinators and other insects, including the Western Monarch butterfly, throughout the year.

Why not take inspiration from Project Apis m. and Jordans and apply these planting for pollinators tips to your own outdoor space? Whether it’s growing more herbs or creating a small wildflower meadow, there are so many simple things you can do – and the bees will love you for it!

Planting for pollinators Herbs and medicinal plants As well as being a good source of nutrition for humans, these kinds of plants are also great for pollinators.

Coriander, mint, lavender, basil, sage, chives and oregano are just some of the varieties that flower in and out of the summer months, so they can support bees throughout the year – and you can use them in your cooking, too.

Rethink your lawn Simple but effective, mowing your grass less can really help pollinators prosper, as can replacing grass with low-growing clover. Wildflower gardens and meadows can be planted as big or as small as you’d like and will provide much-needed nutrition.

Become a bee landlord!

Bee hotels are a great way to boost pollinator diversity in your garden as they can attract solitary species. Solitary bees lay their eggs in the hollow cavities, leaving a small supply of food for the larvae to eat. The larvae then hatch, pupate and emerge from the stems.

To find out more about what you can do for nature, visit jordanscereals.co.uk

i r

I N F U S E D I N E V E RY B O T T L E

www.belvoirfarm.co.uk

index

94

Oven-roasted sweet potato & courgette tortilla 70 Pulled BBQ aubergine & black bean burgers 73 Roasted tomatoes & creamy tahini yogurt 94 Veggie vermicelli 60

SIDES, DRINKS & EXTRAS

Alcohol-free amaretto sour 119 Caper butter sauce 66 Chickpea & red pepper dip 83 Chickpea Bombay mix 83 Classic minestrone 77 Coronation rice salad 66 Crispy sriracha potatoes 66 Curried chickpea & mango salad 83 make it, snap it, post it Fridge-raid salsa verde 66 Frozen watermelon margarita 42 Glamorgan sausages 110 Honey-baked feta 67 @bbcgoodfood Miso garlic bread 66 #bbcgoodfood Mustardy mayonnaise 66 Paloma cocktail 119 Refried beans 67 Ricotta dip 67 Rosita cocktail 119 Shredded charred corn salad 46 Easy oven-cooked Jamaican brown Smoky chickpeas on toast 83 Spiced roast chickpeas 83 stew chicken 136 Spicy bean jacket 67 One-pot chicken & curry rice 74 Sriracha & lime potato salad 46 Spatchcock gochujang chicken 86 Sticky lamb naan 66 Turmeric chicken with butter bean hummus Summer punch 119 & roasted peppers 78 Tahini & feta toast 67

INSTANT

RECIPE FINDER BREAKFAST & BRUNCH Courgette & ricotta fritters with poached eggs & harissa yogurt 20 Halloumi hash 52 Power omelette 29

MEAT

BLT panzanella 146 FISH & SEAFOOD Beer-battered fish burgers 64 Chorizo & chickpea summer Chipotle & lime prawn stew 72 burrito bowls 60 Extra-hot ribs 41 Paper bag prawns with sherry, Fall-off-the-bone sticky chilli & garlic 88 barbecue ribs 41 in this issue Seafood spaghetti 81 Ham, cheese & pear salad 62 Maple & chilli-glazed leg Ultimate lobster rolls 34 of lamb 90 VEGETARIAN MAINS Salami stromboli 98 Smoky chipotle ribs 41 Antipasti stromboli 99 Balsamic feta & mint puy lentils 61 Smoky sausage & black bean chilli 52 Spicy ginger ribs 41 Beetroot tabbouleh 63 Fridge-raid soup 71 POULTRY Gorgonzola & onion stromboli 99 Buffalo chicken burgers & ranch slaw 42 Lemony broad beans with goat’s cheese, Classic butter chicken 108 peas & mint 94 Coronation chicken pasties 38 Miso mushroom & halloumi burgers 90

76

recipes

RECIPE KEY

Vegan

Vegetarian

Balanced

Low cal

Low fat

Gluten free

BAKING & DESSERTS

Bakewell tart scones 102 Cherry, custard & almond sponge cake 96 Chocolate-stuffed flapjack bars 12 Dulce de leche ice cream lollies 66 Feta & fruit bowl 67 Honeycomb 48 Neopolitan traybake 38 Next level chocolate ice cream 112 Next level coffee ice cream 112 Next level salted caramel ripple ice cream 112 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Peach panna cotta trifle 48 Quick fruit fool 66 Rye bread & chocolate mousse 115 Seedy scones with smoked salmon 102

Suitable for freezing

This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure that our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print. Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Walstead Bicester in the UK. Text paper Novapress, supplied by StoraEnso from Veitsiluoto Mill in Finland. Immediate Media is working to ensure that all of its paper is sourced from well managed forests. This magazine is printed on Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified paper.

This magazine can be recycled, for use in newspapers and packaging. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, visit bbcgoodfood.com, email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk or write to Christine Hayes, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT.

BBC Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email info@tnauk.org.uk; or call 01435 866102. If you are enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them first.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 9

THIS IS YOUR What have you been cooking? Our customer engagement assistant, Tami Aktar, wants to hear from you, our wonderful community of readers Whether it’s feedback about your magazine, photos of your food masterpieces or questions to help your cooking, you can get in touch with Tami through our social channels, or email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk

COOKING THE COVER Some of the fantastic efforts from readers who cooked our June issue’s cover-starring berry brownie pavlova cake

#cookthecover

▲ Annabelle, aged 8, Hertfordshire

▲ Melanie Irwin, Norfolk Broads

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▲ Jackie Arnold, Cheshire

What you told us The trick to making perfect Welsh cakes I’ve subscribed to Good Food magazine for over 20 years, and wanted to share my food love story.

I’m Welsh but moved to Scotland in 2013, bringing with me something from home.

I learnt to cook Welsh cakes with my mum when I was young, who was taught by my nan. Making them is an art – you need to warm the griddle to the perfect temperature and cook the cakes for the right amount of time.

Although my nan is no longer with us, I still cook her Welsh cakes recipe on her original traditional Welsh griddle. The griddle is over 50 years old and was made by my grandfather at the steelworks where he worked, so it’s a treasured piece of equipment in my kitchen.

My griddle has moved houses with me several times. Welsh cakes always taste better cooked on it, and it reminds me of my family roots. My Welsh husband loves them, too!

Helen Westwood, Ayr

SUBSCRIBER

CLUB

FROM OUR SUBSCRIBERS

Did you know that if you subscribe to Good Food, you get access to exclusive recipes like the ones below? Turn to p54 for details.

▲ @bloombeerandbakes Thank you to Ell for making these glorious hot cross buns!

▲ Katherine Stonham, Oxford Lemon & poppy seed pancakes with mascarpone (Feb).

What you’ve created @bbcgoodfood

▲ Lisa Dolly Dalton, Hull We wouldn’t mind a slice of Lisa’s raspberry & dark chocolate cheat’s ice cream terrine (June).

Cooking and family memories I’ve been collecting Good Food magazine for over 20 years. My eldest son now enjoys choosing recipes from my collection and likes cooking, like me.

He’s 15, and made a three-course Italian meal over Easter!

He cooked your stuffed pasta bolognese bake (October 2019), and it was very tasty.

▼ @thecookbookhoarders Fran made this amazing version of Barney Desmazery’s pulled chicken & black bean chilli (May).

▼ @alexone2one_cwp Check out Alex’s baked-toperfection cheese & Marmite scones (June).

I hope he continues to enjoy your magazines and cooking like I have. Nothing beats making happy family memories by eating and cooking together.

Claire Creswell, Essex

▲ Nicola Fletcher, Milton Keynes Nicola made this fabulous peach streusel cheesecake from our June issue.

▼ Sarah Ingram-Hill, Horncastle We’re impressed by Sarah’s showstopping version of Liberty Mendez’s rocky road cake (June).

Join our Facebook community, BBC Good Food Together Connect with us and others to share recipes, cooking tips and the kind acts you’re doing or noticing. Check out what everyone’s cooking and post your own kitchen creations.

▲ @activelouise We can’t get enough of Louise’s raspberry & white chocolate crumble muffins from our June issue.

Turn the page to see reader Zayana’s recipe for chocolate flapjack bites

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 11

Reader recipe CHOCOLATE FLAPJACK BITES Good Food reader Zayana Price shares her recipe for these oaty flapjack bars with a smooth chocolate centre photograph MIKE ENGLISH

Chocolate-stuffed flapjack bars This recipe was inspired by my friend Dorothy, who shares my passion for baking.

250g salted butter, softened 60g caster sugar 90g light muscovado sugar 1 tsp baking powder 150g white spelt flour, plus extra for dusting 225g porridge oats For the chocolate filling 100g butter 150g caster sugar 100g 70% dark chocolate 30g milk chocolate 30g cocoa powder 50g white spelt flour ½ tsp baking powder

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Line a 20cm square baking tin with baking parchment. Beat the butter and sugars together in a bowl until pale using electric beaters.

2 Stir the baking powder into the spelt flour, then gradually mix into the sugar and butter. Stir in the oats.

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3 For the filling, melt the butter, sugar and 80g of the dark chocolate and all of the milk chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the bowl doesn’t touch the water and stirring occasionally. Or do this in short bursts in the microwave, stirring between each burst. Remove from the heat, then add the cocoa, spelt flour and baking powder, and mix until well combined.

4 Lightly dust a sheet of baking parchment the same size as the tin with flour, then spread half of the flapjack mixture over it.

Place another 20cm sheet of parchment on top. Roll the mixture out to the edges of the parchment, then peel off the parchment and place in the lined baking tin.

5 Spread the chocolate filling evenly over the top. Repeat step 4 with the other half of the flapjack mix, and place on top of the chocolate layer.

6 Bake on the middle shelf for 45-50 mins, or until golden brown.

Leave to cool completely.

7 Melt the reserved 20g chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water or in 10-second bursts in the microwave. Drizzle over the traybake, leave to set for 10 mins, then cut into squares.

Will keep for up to three days in an airtight container.

PER SERVING 392 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 14g • sugars 21g • fibre 3g • protein 5g • •

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist AMY KINNEAR

MAKES 16 PREP 30 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V

Become a member at bbcgoodfood.com With over 13,000 recipes to choose from, you’re sure to find plenty of inspiration on our website.

Create a free My Good Food account and opt in to receive recipe recommendations direct to your inbox.

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kitchen projects

10 THINGS TO The Good Food team focuses on barbecue basics and preserving. Plus, Emma Crawforth from BBC Gardeners’ World offers planting advice

1

BE BARBECUE-READY DEGREASE THE GRILL We’ve all been there: you pull out your barbecue for the first time in summer, only to find the remnants of last year’s efforts still clinging to the bars. Before you even think about cooking, take some time to get organised and clean up. Remove all dust from the bottom of the grill and give the bars a deep clean using a wire brush. If your barbecue has vents, a build-up of grease and fat can make them stiff, so rinse these with plenty of hot, soapy water, then lightly oil them. Get out your barbecue tools and run these through the dishwasher, too, if you can.

All this is best done at the end of the outdoor cooking season, so plan ahead this year.

2

MAKE A SHOPPING LIST ESSENTIAL BUYS FOR JULY • Ice lolly moulds Freeze smoothies in moulds to keep kids refreshed all summer • Pomegranate or date molasses Drizzle over griddled veg or use in salad dressing • Cured meats and charcuterie Serve on a platter with ripe figs, honey and breadsticks • Good coffee Pour a shot of hot espresso over a scoop of ice cream for a quick affogato

Diary dates 16 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

4 JULY INDEPENDENCE DAY

7 JULY WORLD CHOCOLATE DAY

cook’s calendar

DO THIS MONTH 3

PRESERVE THE SEASON FREEZE SOFT FRUIT Utilise your freezer and be prepared for any occasion.

Frozen grapes make a great snack and are especially refreshing on warm days. You can also get ahead on frozen summer cocktails by freezing watermelon in chunks, and prep morning smoothies by freezing leftover berries and chopped bananas. Simply blitz together in a blender for a meal on the go – no ice required.

4

USE UP A GLUT

COURGETTES If there’s one vegetable that defines ‘glut’, it’s the courgette.

Don’t despair, though: there’s plenty more to do with them than simply giving them away to friends. Look for these clever ideas on bbcgoodfood.com:

• Courgette & orange cake • Courgette martinis • Crunchy courgette pickle • Courgette & tomato chutney

5

HAVE A CLEAR- OUT THE STORAGE CONTAINER DRAWER Always overcrowded, never organised and absolutely full of mismatched lids, the container drawer is always in need of organisation. With a new school term on the horizon, now’s the time to roll up your sleeves and get that pest of a job sorted once and for all. Give everything a good clean and arrange it so the most-used items are near the front, then chuck out or repurpose any with cracks or lingering smells. You’ll thank yourself come September.

28 JUNE - 11 JULY WIMBLEDON

11 JULY EURO 2020 – FINAL

23 JULY SCHOOL HOLIDAYS JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 17

6

7

MAKE JAM

BOTTLE UP

FILL THE PANTRY July is a great time to preserve seasonal fruit by making jams and conserves that will see you through the winter months. Jam is easier to make than you might think, and the ideal way to use up a glut of pick-your-own fruit.

HOMEMADE CORDIAL We love a cool glass of cordial with ice and sparkling water during the hot summer months, and you can easily make your own at home. They’re beautiful stored in glass bottles, so they also make a fun housewarming gift.

You can find several inspired ideas on the Good Food website, including rhubarb, rosehip, elderflower and raspberry. Find more at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ collection/cordial-recipes.

Apricots Delicious spooned over warm croissants, you could also sandwich this jam in a sponge cake Blackberries Add blackberry jam to sponge puddings or spread it over buttered toast for breakfast Cherries Who doesn’t love cherry jam? Essential in a homemade bakewell tart, it also works a treat in summery pavlovas or trifles

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DON’T FORGET BUY QUALITY CHARCOAL AND ECO FIRELIGHTERS Look for sustainably produced charcoal from coppiced or ForestryCommission-approved wood. This will light easily, burn better and prevent any tainting of the flavour of your food, unlike those charcoals that contain accelerants. Where it comes to fire starters, avoid the white blocks of chemicals. There are plenty of ‘natural’ options out there, from wax-dipped, twisted wood shavings to compressed cardboard squares. Both are safer to use, and won’t leave lingering smells on your hands or taint the fuel that they light. To purchase from UK suppliers of sustainable charcoal, wood and firelighters, visit londonlogco.com or oxfordcharcoal.co.uk.

ADD TO YOUR SKILLS

JOIN A GOOD FOOD WEBINAR Sign up to one of our online lessons hosted by members of the cookery team to learn new skills. Turn to page 82 for more and visit bbcgoodfood.com/learn to secure your place.

8 JULY Sourdough for beginners

22 JULY Macaron masterclass

15 JULY Sourdough masterclass

29 JULY 10 steps to cook yourself healthy

To join a masterclass, go to bbcgoodfood.com and sign up to become a My GF member

18 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

Shredded charred corn salad While the barbecue is fired up, throw on some corn cobs to add a smoky, sweet flavour to your salad. Strip it off the cob and stir it into a sweet, salty, sharp onion and cabbage salad for a refreshing summer side. Liberty Mendez SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

½ small white cabbage, finely shredded 2 carrots, grated 1 red onion, halved and finely sliced 3 tbsp cider vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 4 corn cobs 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard

1 Tip the cabbage, carrots and onion into a bowl. Season with salt, then add the vinegar and sugar, and toss to combine. Leave for 20 mins for the vegetables to very lightly pickle.

2 Meanwhile, cook the corn on a hot barbecue or griddle pan for 4-5 mins on both sides until the kernels have darkened and charred slightly. Set aside to cool. Once cool, hold the cobs upright on a board and strip off the kernels in long downward strips using a sharp knife.

3 Stir the mustard and half the corn into the salad and taste for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Serve topped with the remaining corn.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 71 kcals • fat 2g • saturates none • carbs 10g • sugars 7g • fibre 4g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g

Sriracha & lime potato salad Jazz up your usual potato salad this summer with a spicy sriracha and zingy lime dressing. It’s a lively addition to any barbecue. Liberty Mendez SERVES 4-6 as a side PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

750g new potatoes, halved if large 80g mayonnaise 50g soured cream 2 tbsp sriracha 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 tsp honey 6 spring onions, finely sliced ½ small bunch of coriander, finely chopped ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional)

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1 Tip the potatoes into a large pan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15-18 mins until tender. Drain and leave to cool completely.

2 Whisk the mayonnaise with the soured cream, sriracha, lime zest and juice, the honey, half the spring onions, most of the coriander and some seasoning.

3 Toss the cooled potatoes with the sriracha-mayonnaise mixture until all the potatoes are coated. Tip into a serving bowl and scatter over the remaining spring onions, the rest of the coriander and chilli flakes, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • vit c PER SERVING (6) 205 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 20g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.4g

Inside your veg box

COURGETTES Grated, griddled or baked, there are plenty of ways to make this versatile vegetable the star of the show recipe ESTHER CLARK photograph YUKI SUGIURA

SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

2 courgettes, coarsely grated 50g ricotta ½ lemon, zested 2 eggs, lightly beaten 20g parmesan or vegetarian alternative, grated 50g self-raising flour 60g Greek yogurt ½ tbsp rose harissa 2 tbsp olive oil 6 thin slices of pancetta (optional) splash of white wine vinegar 2 large eggs dill and parsley, torn, to serve

1 Line a bowl with a clean cloth and add the courgette with a pinch of salt. Set aside for 30 mins, then use the cloth to squeeze out the excess liquid. Tip the courgette into a bowl with the ricotta, lemon zest, eggs and parmesan, then stir to combine. Fold in the flour and some seasoning.

2 Stir the yogurt and harissa together in a small bowl and season with a pinch of salt. Set aside.

3 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan and spoon in six mounds of the courgette mixture. Cook over a medium heat for 3-4 mins each side until golden brown. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake for 10 mins.

4 Meanwhile, heat your grill to high, then cook the pancetta, if using, for 2-3 mins on each side until crisp.

5 Bring a pan of water to the boil.

Drizzle a little of the vinegar into a ramekin and crack an egg into it.

Swirl the water in the pan with a wooden spoon to create a whirlpool in the middle, then gently tip the egg into it and simmer for 3 mins.

Repeat with the second egg. Serve three fritters stacked on each plate, topped with an egg and three slices of pancetta, alongside a dollop of the harissa yogurt, then scatter over the herbs.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 485 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 10g • carbs 24g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 26g • salt 0.9g

TRY THESE VARIETIES

DEFENDER The most commonly grown classic, garden variety. Deep green, large and versatile to cook with.

GOLD RUSH Bright yellow in colour and long.

They work well thinly sliced and tossed in salads.

ROUND COURGETTES OR TONDO DI NIZZA Try roasting them whole, or stuffing them before baking.

QUICK WAYS TO USE THEM ADD TO TZATZIKI Give tzatziki a twist by adding grated courgette in replacement of the usual cucumber. It lends a robust texture and fresh flavour complemented by chopped mint and dill. Serve with lamb and flatbreads.

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GET GRIDDLING Use a veg peeler to pare long strips of courgette, then fry on a hot griddle pan for 1-2 mins before tossing with a little oil, lemon juice and pine nuts, if you like.

Crumble over some feta for a quick summery side dish.

USE THE FLOWERS If you’re growing courgettes in your garden, you’ll notice their yellow flowers. Add these to salads, or stuff with ricotta or goat’s cheese and lemon zest, and fry in a tempura batter before drizzling with honey. A lovely starter.

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Courgette & ricotta fritters with poached eggs & harissa yogurt

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next month Beetroot Find new ways to cook with this vibrant root vegetable in our August issue, on sale 29 July

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JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 21

r u o w Fo llo

7-DAY MEAL PLAN During lockdown, I was eating every meal at home and cooking for my dad, so I got into meal planning. It stops the monotony of having the same family meals on rotation and helps me keep up with all the new recipes in each issue.

onday

Skills & shows editor Barney Desmazery shares what he’ll be cooking from this issue and bbcgoodfood.com

SUMMER STAR AFTER-SCHOOL SNACK Best ever chunky guacamole

DINNER Roasted tomatoes & creamy tahini yogurt

Early in the week, I make lunch that doubles as a kids’ lunchbox filler. page 38

Guacamole makes a great snack and stops kids filling up on rubbish. find the recipe online

I’m always looking for clever ways to use up farmer’s market veg. page 94

Tuesday

LUNCHBOX BAKING Coronation chicken pasties

IN SEASON BREAKFAST Banana smoothie

Wednesday

I go on an early-morning 10km run twice a week, and this is just the sort of thing I make when I get back. find the recipe online

LUNCH Lemony broad beans with goat’s cheese, peas & mint

EASY DINNER Pasta arrabbiata with aubergine

I’ll try and have at least one full vegetarian day a week. page 94

My family loves big bowls of pasta topped with cheese. find the recipe online

MAKE AHEAD

LUNCH Balsamic, mint & feta puy lentils Perfect for eating al-desko, any leftovers will taste great the next day. page 61

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FREEZER FILLER Salami stromboli I find making bread dough very therapeutic, and this recipe means I can turn that dough into dinner. page 98

DINNER Chorizo & chickpea summer stew My kids love chorizo, and this stew is also packed with veg. page 72

Thursday

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EASY BAKE

MIDWEEK BAKE Bakewell tart scones

My second run day will warrant a more substantial, but still healthy, breakfast. find the recipe online

My daughter bakes once a week, so there’s always a few homemade treats in the cake tin. page 102

Friday

BREAKFAST Breakfast egg wraps

Fresh, filling, full of flavour and no actual cooking involved! page 60

FRIDAY TREAT MEALS ON WHEELS One-pot chicken & curry rice

Saturday

My father is Jewish so I visit him on Friday for the Sabbath, with some hearty meals for him to eat. page 74

SUNDOWNER COCKTAIL Frozen watermelon margarita

DINNER Beer-battered fish burgers

My wife and I love an aperitif, and chill in the garden with a cocktail. page 42

On Friday nights we’ll eat on the sofa and watch a film together. page 64

COOLING CORDIAL BRUNCH Courgette & ricotta fritters We’re all about big brunches on the weekends, which see us right through to dinner. page 20

Sunday

NO-COOK DINNER Chipotle & lime prawn burrito bowls

WEEKEND PROJECT Elderberry syrup

DINNER Fall-off-the-bone ribs

I make a batch of this each year to use as a cordial and a cold-cure. find the recipe online

We’re big on barbecuing, and these sticky pork ribs have been perfected over the years. page 41

SUNDAY LUNCH Spatchcock gochujang chicken

DESSERT Next level chocolate ice cream

A whole Sunday chicken, but not as you know it! page 86

We only do dessert on Sundays, but we’ll graze on this all week. page 112

ONE-PAN WONDER BRUNCH Halloumi hash I’m always looking for veggie brunch ideas, so I’ll definitely be making this. page 52

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 23

Chipotle & lime prawn burrito bowls SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins plus at least 1 hr pickling NO COOK EASY

1 red onion, finely sliced 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar ½ tsp caster sugar 250g leftover cooked rice 1 lime, zested and juiced, plus extra lime wedges to serve (optional) 4 spring onions, finely sliced 400g can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 198g can sweetcorn, drained 1 avocado, stoned, peeled and sliced 2 large tomatoes, finely chopped 2 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche

Veggie vermicelli SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V

200g rice vermicelli noodles 2 carrots, finely shredded ½ cucumber, peeled into ribbons using a vegetable peeler 150g sugar snap peas, halved at an angle ½ small bunch of coriander, finely chopped 2 tbsp unsalted peanuts, toasted and roughly chopped For the dressing 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp rice vinegar

reader offer Enjoy perfect grilling with the Judge Healthy Grill, just £42 inc p&p (RRP £60) Compact and versatile, this handy appliance doubles as a sandwich press. Fat and oil is channelled into a removable drip tray, while the floating hinge allows you to adjust the grill according to the thickness of different foods.

It’s ideal for grilling chicken, vegetables, paninis and more.

HOW TO ORDER Visit horwood.co.uk, search JEA68 (or Judge Healthy Grill) and enter BBCGFGRILL30 at checkout. Offer ends 31 July 2021.

60 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

½ small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional) For the prawns 2 tsp chipotle paste ½ tsp honey 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 tsp olive oil 125g cooked king prawns

1 Mix the red onion with the vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt.

Cover and leave to pickle for at least 1 hr or overnight. To prepare the prawns, mix the chipotle paste, honey, lime zest and juice and oil together, then toss in the prawns until they’re coated in the mixture.

2 Put the leftover rice in a large bowl and mix with the lime zest

½ tsp honey thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and grated 2 small garlic cloves, grated 1 red chilli, finely sliced

1 Put the noodles in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiled water from the kettle. Leave for 3-5 mins to soften, then drain and plunge the noodles into a bowl of cold water to prevent them drying out. Set aside.

2 Whisk all the dressing ingredients with 2 tsp cold water in a small bowl and season lightly. Put the carrots, cucumber ribbons, sugar snap peas and half the coriander in a bowl, then toss with half the dressing.

and juice, most of the spring onions and the kidney beans.

Season lightly. Spoon the mixture into two shallow bowls.

3 Top the rice with the pickled red onions, spiced prawns, sweetcorn, sliced avocado, the remaining spring onions and tomatoes. Spoon the crème fraîche on top, then serve with the coriander and a sprinkling of chilli flakes, if you want it spicy.

Serve the extra lime wedges on the side for squeezing over, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW balanced • folate • fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 564 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 5g • carbs 70g • sugars 18g • fibre 14g • protein 23g • salt 1.7g

3 Drain the noodles well, then toss with the vegetables. Divide between two plates, then top with the rest of the coriander and the peanuts.

Serve with the remaining dressing on the side for drizzling over.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 699 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 4g • carbs 100g • sugars 14g • fibre 8g • protein 15g • salt 0.2g

SAVE 30%

easy midweek

£2.43 per serving

Beetroot tabbouleh SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY V

250g pouch cooked grains 2 small beetroots, peeled and quartered small bunch of mint, leaves picked, plus extra to serve small bunch of parsley, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 lemon, zested and juiced

2 tomatoes, finely chopped 1 red onion, finely chopped ½ cucumber, finely chopped

1 Put the kettle on to boil. Tip the grains into a fine mesh sieve, pour over a kettleful of boiling water, over the sink, leave to drain, then tip into a large bowl. Put the beetroot, most of the herbs, the olive oil, lemon juice and 5-6 tbsp cold water in a food processor and blitz until smooth. Season lightly, adding a splash more water to loosen if

needed. Mix into the bowl of grains and stir until they are well-coated.

2 Toss the tomatoes, onion, cucumber and lemon zest into the grain mixture until combined.

Season to taste. Divide between two plates, sprinkle with more herbs and drizzle with a little olive oil.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 422 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 3g • carbs 50g • sugars 12g • fibre 11g • protein 10g • salt 0.2g

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 63

reduce waste

use your leftovers Make the most of any surplus from our July recipes using these clever and quick ideas FROM THIS ISSUE Crispy sriracha potatoes Use any leftover sriracha & lime potato salad (p46) to make roast potatoes – they become extra-crisp as they’re already coated in mayonnaise and oil. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7, spread the potatoes out over a large baking tray and roast for 30 mins, tossing occasionally until golden and crisp.

Coronation rice salad Turn any leftover one-pot chicken & curry rice (p74) into lunch the next day by chilling it overnight, then dressing with mayonnaise, extra curry powder and mango chutney, if you like.

Miso garlic bread Spread any leftover miso butter (p90) over a split baguette, then wrap in foil and bake at 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 for 10 mins until the butter has melted and the bread is crisp.

Sticky lamb naan Finely chop any leftover maple & chilli-glazed leg of lamb (p90) and reheat in a frying pan until sticky and caramelised. Scatter the lamb over warmed naans and top with a handful of chopped coriander and extra sliced green chillies, if you like.

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IDEAS FOR

Custard

Capers

If you made the cherry, custard & almond sponge cake (p96)

If you made the seedy scones with smoked salmon (p102)

 Seasonal pavlova Fold custard through mascarpone, then spoon over a pavlova along with seasonal fruit. (Try our ‘perfect pavlova’, above, on bbcgoodfood.com.)  Quick fruit fool Whisk double cream with icing sugar and fold through some custard. Gently fold in a compote of your choice (gooseberry, rhubarb or mango & lime work well) so the mixture has a rippled effect. Spoon into glasses and chill.  Dulce de leche ice cream lollies Blitz custard with natural yogurt and icing sugar along with a spoonful of dulce de leche to combine. Pour into lolly moulds and freeze until solid.

 Caper butter sauce Fry 1-2 tbsp capers in butter until the butter turns golden brown and smells nutty. Stir in the juice of 1/2 lemon. Pour the sauce over pan-fried fish, such as dover sole or plaice.  Fridge-raid salsa verde Blitz soft herbs (parsley, coriander or basil) with 1-2 tbsp capers, Dijon mustard, red wine vinegar and olive oil.  Mustardy mayonnaise Mix roughly chopped capers with mayonnaise, wholegrain mustard and tarragon.

Serve with roast chicken and chips or in fish finger sarnies.

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RAISE A GLASS Our pick of must-try spirits and craft beer

beer Schiehallion craft lager Named after the famous Scottish mountain in Perth and Kinross, Schiehallion (pronounced She-halion) is the breathtaking signature beer from Harviestoun Brewery.

A great any-occasion lager, it’s packed with crisp, sharp grapefruit notes and it has a sweet aroma thanks to its high wheat content.

If you fancy something richer and more velvety with a note of chocolate, try the brewery’s Old Engine Oil (6% ABV). A refreshing stout, even on a summer’s day.

4.8% ABV, £36 (24 x 330ml bottles), harviestoun.com

premixed cocktail Black Cow negroni An excellent example of a premixed cocktail, Black Cow’s negroni combines its signature pure milk vodka (made with whey leftover from the cheese-making process) with Campari, vermouth and a blend of bitters. The use of its smooth vodka (in place of gin) helps balance any rough edges in the drink and allows the vermouth to shine, creating a mellow version of this classic cocktail. To serve, simply pour over ice and stir. Or, for something lighter, top with soda water and garnish with an orange slice. 24% ABV, £25 (50cl), blackcow.co.uk

non-alcoholic aperitif Sprigster This sophisticated nonalcoholic aperitif made by the team at Wiltshire-based Pythouse Kitchen Garden includes a range of fruits and botanicals from the gardens, and is infused with vinegar.

The result is a beautifully fresh, shrub-like drink that’s evocative of a hedgerow. It’s packed full

of rich baked apple flavours that are balanced by vinegar sharpness, while hops and fennel seeds add a moreish dryness and herbal notes.

Serve it with ice and soda water for a refreshing, booze-free summer drink. £26 (70cl), sprigsterdrinks.com

gin Hepple & Hawksmoor limited-edition smoked gin Northumberland-based distillery Hepple created this limited-edition gin in collaboration with Hawksmoor restaurant. To mirror the smoky flavours of Hawksmoor’s charcoal-cooked steaks, Hepple lightly smokes the botanicals over wild juniper wood, including tangerine peel, coriander seeds and juniper berries. These are then combined with Douglas fir, Amalfi lemon and green juniper for brightness. The gin is great in a martini or red snapper (the gin-based version of a bloody mary) – cin cin!

44% ABV, £35 (500ml), shop.thehawksmoor.com

Reviews MIRIAM NICE, CHRISTINE HAYES, KEITH KENDRICK

,

WE ARE

Each month, we introduce you to the experts who create content for your favourite food brand

PAUL ALLEN A former BBC environmental editor with two decades of national press experience, Paul has written about sustainability for The Guardian, The Times and New Internationalist, among other titles. He’s also the author of two books on starting an ethical business and finding a career with purpose.

As well as heading up Brighton-based creative agency Lark – charity clients include Samaritans, Guide Dogs and Beat – Paul contributes sustainability articles for the BBC Good Food website on everything from reducing your food miles to the true environmental impact of vegan diets. To read more from Paul, visit bbcgoodfood.com/author/paulallen.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 27

Presents

John Torode

Lottie Bedlow

3 night scenic Seacation Departing 10th September on Sky Princess

Michel Roux Jr.

Al l- i n c l u s i v e balcony cru ise

£389 from

PP*

Chef, TV Judge and Presenter, John Torode, owner of the Michelin-starred Le Gavroche and TV Chef, Michel Roux Jr, and last year’s star of The Great British Bake Off, Lottie Bedlow, join Sky Princess for a very special one-off Culinary Stars cruise.

Visit princess.com

|

Call 0344 338 8671

|

Contact your Travel Agent

*All-inclusive cruise from £389pp based on two guests sharing a balcony stateroom on voyage Y124P – 3-night scenic cruise. **Guests must be fully vaccinated. For these cruises the definition of “vaccinated” is a minimum of seven days following the second dose of the currently approved COVID-19 vaccines being administered. For full terms and conditions see princess.com/summerseacations.

cook’s calendar

T V chefs SAT BAINS’ BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS

Power your mornings with my take on a classic omelette. Bacon, chorizo, red pepper and onion submerged in eggs and served with chilli, avocado and cottage cheese will put meat on your bones and help you to tackle anything.

Kick-start your day with this satisfying pepper, bacon and chorizo omelette Power omelette SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

olive oil, for frying and drizzling 2 back bacon rashers, chopped 100g chorizo, chopped 1 red pepper, deseeded and sliced 1 red onion, sliced 6 eggs, lightly beaten 1 avocado pinch of chilli flakes, or to taste 100g cottage cheese, to serve

1 Heat a little olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and cook the bacon and chorizo for a few minutes until caramelised.

Add the pepper and onion, and cook for about 3-5 mins more until soft.

2 Season the eggs, then tip into the pan and reduce the heat to low. Cook, moving the outer edge of the eggs towards the centre with a wooden spoon or spatula to combine all the ingredients, for about 15 mins until the omelette is set with a slight wobble in the middle.

3 Meanwhile, halve and stone the avocado then scoop the flesh into a bowl. Season and sprinkle with a pinch of chilli flakes or to taste. Mash and drizzle with olive oil.

4 When the omelette is ready, turn off the heat and leave for a few minutes until fully set. Cut into wedges and serve with the avocado and a dollop of cottage cheese.

Recipe adapted from Chefs at Home: Delicious Family Recipes from the UK’s Leading Locked Down Chefs (£26, Jon Croft Editions).

Photographs © Kris Kirkham.

(Recipes sent by the publisher are not retested by us.) Sat Bains is a regular guest on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen Live.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 657 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 14g • carbs 11g • sugars 8g • fibre 6g • protein 39g • salt 3.1g

TV & RADIO PICKS The Joe Wicks Podcast This month, Joe Wicks talks health and fitness with the people who inspire him, including racing driver Daniel Ricciardo and comedian Russell Brand. You’ll find a fresh batch of The Joe Wicks Podcast on BBC Sounds, along with his previous interviews with Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver.

TV and radio picks KATHRYN CUSTANCE

Saturday Kitchen Best Bites Matt Tebbutt chooses his stand-out recipes and favourite moments from BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen Live series on BBC Two every Sunday at 10am, or catch up on BBC iPlayer.

Join in the fun and share your own best bits on social media @Saturday.Kitchen over the weekend.

The Kitchen Cabinet Jay Rayner and his panel of foodies return in July with a new series of the entertaining and informative Saturday morning treat. If you have a question for future shows, email the team at tkc@bbc.co.uk. Listen on Saturdays at 10.30am on BBC Radio 4 from 17 July, or hear past episodes on BBC Sounds.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 29

THIS MONTH’S

Wish list

1

Pack a sustainable picnic with these eco-friendly buys chosen by food & reviews writer Anna Lawson

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5 3

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To read our sustainable product reviews, visit bbcgoodfood.com/reviews

Sigg traveller bottle £17, arket.com Our managing editor Lulu Grimes swears by this large, durable, reusable water bottle that keeps drinks cold on a hot day and lasts years (five and counting for Lulu).

Coral reef plates (set of 4) £40, iamfy.co Not only are these striking, coral-reef design bamboo plates lightweight, they’re also dishwasher-safe and part of the profits made goes towards helping restore coral reefs.

Berghoff Leo 3-piece stainless steel cutlery set £13.31, Amazon Stainless steel cutlery might be heavier than bamboo or plastic, but it feels nicer to eat with.

It’s easy to clean, and it will last, too. This set also comes in a silicone pouch.

Recycled Welsh weave wool picnic rug £19.95, ethicalsuperstore.com Made in the UK, these super-soft wool picnic blankets are made from recycled yarn, either obtained from old clothes, or saved from landfill and put back into production.

Leakproof stainless steel containers (set of 3) £26, thekindstoreonline.co.uk These lightweight containers are great for bringing snacks to a picnic. The silicone lids fit tightly, so there’s no danger of leaks.

Elephant Box stainless steel cups £16 (2 x 350ml), elephantbox.co.uk Made from food-grade stainless steel, these are not only super-sturdy and long-lasting, they’re also lightweight, dishwasher-safe and won’t

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impart any flavour to drinks, making them ideal for taking on picnics, walks and camping trips.

Eco lunch bag £8.99, Amazon This insulated food bag not only looks trendy, it’s great for keeping food fresh, including tall items and sandwiches – just pop an ice block in with the food on a hot day.

As well as picnics, it’s also great for taking lunch to school or the office.

7

Levantine square cotton napkins (set of 4) £8, John Lewis & Partners These bold napkins can be machine-washed and reused. Great for a picnic in the sunshine, they also look lovely on a summery dinner table, especially paired with dishes from the new John Levantine range.

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cook’s calendar

BOOKS FOR COOKS

What Fiona Forman is cooking this month MUST-TRY RECIPE

Just One Pan

by Jane Lovett (£25, Headline Home) No one likes washing up (or they certainly don’t in my house), so recipes that cut down on clean-up are a big plus. Add in the timesaving benefits of cooking in one pan and I’m sold! In this book, food writer Jane provides genius one-pan recipes, with everything from curries and stews to traybakes and tarts.

Must-try recipe: Creamy leek, potato & parmesan chicken thigh traybake

Joe’s Family Food Chetna’s 30 Minute Indian

by Chetna Makan (£20, Mitchell Beazley) I love Indian dishes, but making a curry can sometimes be a lengthy affair, with grinding spices and marinating, so I was glad to see this book from former Bake Off contestant Chetna Makan. Ready in 30 minutes or less, her recipes really pack in the flavour – everyone will think you’ve been in the kitchen for hours! Make a midweek curry, or choose a few recipes for the weekend and make a feast.

Must-try recipe: Coconut paneer tikka

by Joe Wicks (£20, Bluebird) As well as helping the nation stay fit during lockdown, The Body Coach and dad-of-two has been busy working on a new cookbook filled with easy, nutritious, veg-packed meals kids and adults will love. They were a hit with my toddler (he enjoyed the haddock chowder), so I’ll be using this for stress-free family meals.

Must-try recipe: Sausage & lentil ragu with polenta

MORE FROM BBC GOOD FOOD Vegan magazine Simple plantbased mains, stunning desserts and light lunches to see you through summer. On sale now, £5.99.

On your tablet Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store.

Good Food how-to videos Sharpen your cookery skills with our videos. Find over 200 at bbcgoodfood. com/feature/videos.

Tune in for lively chats with the Good Food team, Tom Kerridge and Britain’s best and brightest in food.

AVAILABLE AT bbcgoodfood.com/podcast

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 31

A thoughtful customised gift

Create your own special customised cookbook by turning Good Food recipes into a truly unique collection to give to a loved one, or use in your own kitchen Our customers rate us

4 out of 5 based on 200 reviews

Visitmycookbooks.bbcgoodfood.com or scan to create your cookbook

cover story

21-PAGE SPECIAL

celebrate summer This year, there’s added reason to welcome in summer as we’re finally able to spend time with friends and family. Whether you’re planning a barbecue, camping trip, picnic, or day on the beach, we have recipes and product reviews to make the good times even more memorable recipes BBC GOOD FOOD TEAM photographs TOM REGESTER

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 33

off to the beach Make a day out at the seaside feel that bit more special with a homemade picnic inspired by some of our coastal favourites

Ultimate lobster rolls Lobster rolls are a classic dish on the north-eastern coast of America. A brioche bun is stuffed with lobster, mayo and celery and served with salty potato ‘chips’ – they’re a real treat. Take the elements to the beach then assemble.

You could also use white crabmeat. Esther Clark SERVES 4-6 PREP 35 mins COOK 5 mins EASY

3 x 500g cooked whole lobsters, fresh or frozen (defrosted if frozen) 3-4 tbsp mayonnaise 1 small lemon, juiced 1 celery stalk, finely chopped ¼ bunch of chives, finely sliced pinch of cayenne pepper, plus an extra pinch to serve 6 brioche hot dog buns or 8 small brioche rolls 1-2 tbsp butter ready salted crisps, to serve (optional)

1 Crack the lobsters open using the back of a chef’s knife or a lobster cracker. Do this carefully so the shells don’t break into a lot of small pieces. Or, ask your fishmonger to remove the shells. Pull out the lobster meat and discard the shells.

34 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

Roughly chop the meat into 2cm pieces, then put in a bowl, cover and chill until needed.

2 Mix the mayonnaise, lemon juice, celery, most of the chives and cayenne together in a small bowl.

Taste for seasoning, adding more lemon juice if needed. Toss the lobster with the dressing.

3 Slice a thin piece off the sides of each bun, then split them open, being careful not to cut all the way through. Melt the butter in a frying pan and fry the buns for 1-2 mins on the cut sides until golden and toasted. Pile the lobster filling into rolls, then sprinkle with another pinch of cayenne and the reserved chives. Eat alongside some ready salted crisps, if you like.

PER SERVING (6) 416 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 6g • carbs 36g • sugars 9g • fibre 2g • protein 26g • salt 1.4g

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JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 35

weekend

Miso mushroom & halloumi burgers, p90

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Neapolitan traybake, p38

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 37

Coronation chicken pasties Make the pasties ahead and leave to cool before packing for the beach. You can also top these with seeds, such as poppy or sesame, if you like. Esther Clark MAKES 6 PREP 1 hr plus at least 5 hrs chilling COOK 1 hr 25 mins MORE EFFORT

450g strong white bread flour 100g frozen butter 100g frozen lard 1 egg, beaten For the filling 40g unsalted butter, softened 1 large or 2 small onions, thinly sliced 6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2cm pieces 4 tbsp korma curry paste 1½ tbsp mild curry powder 2½ tbsp plain flour, plus extra for dusting 300ml hot chicken stock 150ml double cream 2 tbsp mango chutney

1 For the pastry, tip the flour into a large bowl and stir in 1/2 tsp salt. Grate in the

cold butter and lard. Gently combine with your hands. Swiftly mix in 250ml ice-cold water using a cutlery knife. Tip the dough onto a surface and knead for 1 min until smooth. Wrap and chill for at least 1 hr.

2 To make the filling, heat the butter in a flameproof casserole or large frying pan over a medium-low heat and fry the onions for 10-12 mins until softened and starting to caramelise. Add the chicken and cook for 5 mins more. Stir in the korma paste, curry powder and flour, turn up the heat to medium and fry for another 2 mins. Stir in the stock gradually, in several additions, then simmer for 3 mins until the mixture has thickened. Stir in the cream and mango chutney. Leave to cool completely.

Once the mixture is completely cool, cover and chill for at least 3 hrs or overnight.

3 Line two baking sheets with baking parchment. Divide the chilled pastry into

six pieces, weighing for accuracy, if you like. Form each piece into a ball, then roll each one out on a lightly floured surface to a 20cm circle. Working with one pastry circle at a time, spoon a sixth of the filling into the middle of the circle. Wet the edge around half the circle, then fold over to the dry edge and crimp using your fingers or a fork to seal. Repeat with the remaining filling and pastry circles, placing them on the baking sheets as you go. Chill for 1 hr.

4 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4.

Brush the pasties with the beaten egg and bake for 50 mins-1 hr, or until golden.

Leave to cool for 10 mins, then eat hot, or cool completely to pack for a picnic.

Will keep chilled in an airtight container for up to two days.

GOOD TO KNOW iron PER SERVING 899 kcals • fat 57g • saturates 29g • carbs 71g • sugars 6g • fibre 5g • protein 25g • salt 1.8g

Neapolitan traybake Try this bake for pure nostalgia in cake form. It reminds me of the massive tub of Neapolitan ice cream that used to be at the front of our family freezer when I was growing up. It has the classic vanilla, chocolate and strawberry flavours, and is topped off with whipped cream and, of course, a chocolate flake. Liberty Mendez SERVES 16 PREP 35 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

200g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tin 100g strawberries, hulled and quartered 200g caster sugar 3 eggs 1 tbsp vanilla extract 200g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 2 tbsp cocoa powder 3 tbsp milk drop of pink gel food colouring For the topping 200ml double cream 2 tbsp icing sugar 6 chocolate flakes, cut into thirds

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4.

Butter a 20cm square baking tin and line with two criss-crossed, overlapping strips of baking parchment (this will help you

38 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

remove the traybake later). Put the strawberries in a food processor or mini chopper and blitz to a purée. Tip into a small saucepan and simmer for 3 mins until slightly reduced. Pour into a bowl and leave to cool.

2 Beat the butter and sugar together in a bowl using an electric whisk (or do this in a stand mixer) for 4-5 mins until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in the eggs, one at a time, followed by the vanilla extract. Mix in the flour and baking powder.

3 Divide the cake batter between three bowls, weighing for accuracy, if you like.

Mix the cocoa and 2 tbsp milk into the first bowl until smooth and combined. Mix the cooled strawberry purée and a drop of pink food colouring into the second bowl, and stir the remaining milk into the last bowl.

4 Drop alternating spoonfuls of the three batters into the prepared tin until all three have been used up (an ice cream scoop is useful for this). Try not to mix the colours

together, but spread each blob out slightly using the back of the spoon. It’s easiest to use three separate spoons to prevent colours mixing, or rinse the spoon before moving to a different coloured batter.

5 Bake for 30-35 mins until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin for 15 mins, then transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely. Once cool, will keep covered in the fridge for up to three days. Next, make the topping. Whisk the cream and icing sugar together to soft peaks – it should be thick and spreadable. Spoon the topping into a piping bag fitted with a star nozzle, if you like. Or, you can spoon on the topping.

6 Cut the cooled sponge into 16 even squares, then pipe or spoon a dollop of the topping over each. Decorate each square with a chocolate flake before serving.

PER SERVING 324 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 13g • carbs 30g • sugars 20g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g

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Three of the best

Must-haves for a picnic on the beach East London Liquor Co vodka & rhubarb £2.25 (250ml), masterofmalt.com This refreshing tipple is a favourite among our team, combining vodka with vibrant, freshtasting rhubarb. It’s not too sweet or artificial-tasting like so many canned alcoholic drinks can be.

Prices are correct at time of printing and subject to change.

Yellow bamboo bowl with lid, £10, sassandbelle.co.uk Sturdy yet lightweight, this bright bamboo box is great for storing small salads or snacks. The silicone band keeps it firmly shut, while the bamboo lid can work double-duty as an on-the-go chopping board.

Beetroot, yogurt & sumac dip £1.60 (180g), Waitrose & Partners Hummus is standard at a picnic, but why not branch out and bring a different kind of dip? We love this beetroot option, with zesty sumac, warming spices and creamy yogurt.

• For more inspiration, don’t miss our picnic picks on page 30 and favourite supermarket picnic foods (p121).

Barbecue sea bream with asparagus, herb hollandaise & lardo di colonnata SERVES 3 1 PREP 5 mins 1 COOK 25 mins 1 EASY

3 egg yolks 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 200g unsalted butter small bunch each of chives and chervil, chopped small bunch each of flat-leaf parsley, tarragon and basil, leaves picked 100ml olive oil, plus extra to serve 400-500g sea bream, gutted and cleaned 4 large asparagus spears, cut into 1cm pieces 4 lardo di colonnata slices 1 lemon, juiced

1 Bring a medium pan of water to a

The perfect pairing With a chilled bottle of Birrificio Angelo Poretti, you can elevate your dishes this summer and beyond

W

hoever thought food and drinks pairings were limited to wine, clearly hadn’t experienced the refreshing taste of Birrificio Angelo Poretti. Meticulously crafted to complement the flavours in your dishes, this delightful pairing beer really is food’s best friend.

For more than a century, Birrificio Angelo Poretti has been producing its crisp, fresh lager-style beer using only the finest ingredients from around the world at its brewery at the foot of the Italian Campo dei Fiori mountains. And thanks to the pristine alpine water used in the

brewing process, the beer has a beautiful clarity and palate-cleansing quality that will enhance all of your culinary creations.

Birrificio Angelo Poretti has now teamed up with Ben Marks, chef and owner of Perilla in north London. He’s passionate about serving the beer with his dishes and has specially created a recipe pairing you’re going to love.

The dominant Columbus hop in the beer imparts pepper, liquorice and aniseed flavours that bring alive the chives and chervil in the hollandaise, while the beer’s lively sparkle cuts through the rich sauce, helping the fish to shine.

Birrificio Angelo Poretti is available in selected Tesco and M&S Food stores

Enjoy responsibly

simmer over a high heat. Place a metal bowl over the top, ensuring the base doesn’t touch the water. Tip in the egg yolks, with a splash of water and the white wine vinegar. Whisk continuously, ensuring the yolks don’t scramble (keep the water at a gentle simmer and remove the bowl from the pan if it gets too hot).

When the mixture is light in colour and has thickened, remove from the heat.

2 Melt the butter in a small pan. Slowly pour the butter into the eggs, whisking continuously until you have a thick, glossy hollandaise. Season with sea salt and fold in the chives and chervil. Cover and set aside until needed.

3 Bring a pan of water to the boil. Add the parsley, tarragon and basil for 30 secs, then remove and place directly into a bowl of iced water. Once cold, squeeze out any excess water and roughly chop. Blitz in a blender, then slowly add the olive oil and half the lemon juice, blending until smooth.

Season with salt, then pour into a bowl.

4 Light a barbecue. Season the fish inside and out with salt. Barbecue over a medium heat, turning regularly for 6-7 mins. Cook until lightly charred on both sides. If you haven’t got a fish cage, lay two sheets of foil onto the grill of the barbecue and use a spatula to carefully turn the fish.

5 Cook the asparagus in a pan of salted boiling water for 1 min, then drain and dress in a little olive oil. Lay the lardo slices over the fish, then spoon a little of the herb oil over and scatter over the asparagus. Squeeze over the remaining lemon juice and garnish with a few extra herbs. Serve with the hollandaise sauce on the side.

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Fall-off-the-bone sticky barbecue ribs I’ve never understood the logic behind rib recipes that require boiling or steaming the ribs before glazing them. Here, I’ve created a method of cooking them in what becomes the sauce, which takes on plenty of flavour from the meat juices. Ribs are my family’s favourite barbecue meat, and the beauty of this recipe is that most of the work is done in the oven. All you need to do on the barbecue is the glaze, so even a small barbecue will do. As most of the work is done ahead, this can be easily packed and transported for finishing outdoors. Barney Desmazery SERVES 6-8 PREP 30 mins plus optional marinating COOK 3 hrs EASY

4 racks of baby back pork ribs or other whole racks (about 450g each, see p117 for tips) 5 tbsp cider vinegar 2 tbsp smoked paprika 4 tbsp light brown soft sugar 1 tbsp garlic granules 1 tbsp onion granules 1 tbsp Chinese five-spice powder 300g tomato ketchup 2 tbsp honey 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 300ml apple juice

1 If there’s a thin membrane on the back of the ribs, peel this off as best you can. The length of the ribs will be determined by the size of your roasting tin and barbecue – leave them whole or cut in half or thirds.

Tip the ribs into a large, deep roasting tin. Whisk the rest of the ingredients together in a bowl until completely combined, then pour this over the ribs. Toss the ribs in the sauce using your hands to ensure they’re completely coated.

Cover the tin with foil, shiny-side down. To cook straightaway, simply leave to marinate while the oven heats up, or chill the ribs overnight.

2 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3 and bake the ribs for 2 hrs 30 mins-3 hrs, turning once or twice until the bones are exposed and the meat is pull-apart tender. When the ribs are cooked, leave to cool a little, then lift onto a tray using tongs.

Pour the sauce from the tin into a saucepan and bring to the boil.

Reduce the heat and simmer for 25-30 mins, stirring occasionally until thickened. Leave to cool.

The sauce and ribs can be prepared up to two days ahead and chilled.

3 Light the barbecue and wait until the coals are ashen, or set a gas barbecue to medium. Put as many ribs on the grill as you can fit, then brush generously with the sauce.

Working quickly, grill the ribs, basting with more sauce and turning every minute or so until the ribs are well-coated, charred at the edges, caramelised and sticky.

Repeat with any remaining ribs and sauce if they didn’t all fit on the grill at once. Serve piled high on a platter with the reserved sauce on the side for slathering on top. Any leftover sauce will keep chilled in the fridge for up to a week.

PER SERVING (8) 363 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 5g • carbs 33g • sugars 32g • fibre 2g • protein 17g • salt 2.7g

& • For the best type of pork ribs for your BBQ, see p117.

• Chef Peggy Brunache and food innovator Simon Preston attempt to recreate the tastes of a USstyle barbecue pit using just a domestic oven and a £20 BBQ in BBC Radio Scotland’s The Kitchen Café series. To listen, search ‘The Kitchen Café, Smoke, fire and meat BBQ special’.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 41

Buffalo chicken burgers & ranch slaw Marinating chicken thighs overnight before cooking on the barbecue is one of the tastiest ways to enjoy them. The chicken is succulent and well-seasoned, and the marinade becomes sticky and caramelised on the grill. I make a buffalo sauce to go on mine, which, when eaten against the cool ranch slaw, is delicious. Esther Clark SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus overnight chilling COOK 20 mins EASY

8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs 100ml buffalo hot sauce 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika 3 tbsp maple syrup 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1½ tsp garlic granules 30g butter, melted and cooled 4 slices monterey jack cheese, cut in half 4 brioche burger buns, split For the slaw 1 pointed spring cabbage, finely sliced 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

2 celery sticks, finely chopped 50g mayonnaise 50g soured cream 1 tbsp white wine vinegar ¼ bunch of chives, finely sliced

1 Tip the chicken into a large bowl. Mix the hot sauce with the paprika, maple syrup, vinegar, garlic granules and butter in a separate bowl. Pour this over the chicken, toss, cover and chill overnight.

2 The next day, make the ranch slaw. Tip the cabbage, onion, celery, mayonnaise, soured cream, vinegar and chives into a medium bowl, then season to taste and mix until everything is well-combined.

3 Light the barbecue. When the coals are ashen, put the chicken on the grill and cook for 8 mins on each side, basting with the leftover marinade as you go. Alternatively, cook the chicken under a hot grill for 8-10 mins on each side, basting with the marinade. When the chicken is cooked through, put half a slice of cheese on each piece and leave to melt for 1 min. Put two chicken thighs on the base of each bun, spoon over some slaw and sandwich with the bun tops.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 744 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 16g • carbs 52g • sugars 19g • fibre 5g • protein 39g • salt 2.3g

Frozen watermelon margarita In my books, a good garden party isn’t complete without a frozen cocktail, and these are quick and easy to make – you just have to remember to put the watermelon in the freezer the night before! Liberty Mendez SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus overnight freezing EASY V

800g watermelon, cut into cubes (prepared weight) 125ml tequila 75ml triple sec 2 limes, zested and juiced, plus a wedge for the rim 2 tsp honey For the garnish 4 tsp sea salt flakes 2 tsp caster sugar ¼ tsp chilli flakes

1 Put the watermelon pieces in a freezerproof container and freeze overnight until solid. The next day, prepare the garnish for the rim of each glass. Combine the sea salt flakes, sugar, chilli flakes and lime zest in a small bowl. Set aside.

2 When you want to serve, put the frozen watermelon, tequila, triple sec, lime juice and honey in a food processor or blender and blitz until smooth. Run a lime wedge around the rims of four glasses, then dip in the garnish mix. Pour the drink into the glasses. Serve immediately.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 201 kcals • fat 1g • saturates 0.2g • carbs 21g • sugars 21g • fibre 0.3g • protein 1g • salt 0.01g

42 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

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JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 43

Shredded charred corn salad, p46

44 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

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Sriracha & lime potato salad, p46 JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 45

Shredded charred corn salad While the barbecue is fired up, throw on some corn cobs to add a smoky, sweet flavour to your salad. Strip it off the cob and stir it into a sweet, salty, sharp onion and cabbage salad for a refreshing summer side. Liberty Mendez SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

½ small white cabbage, finely shredded 2 carrots, grated 1 red onion, halved and finely sliced 3 tbsp cider vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 4 corn cobs 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard

1 Tip the cabbage, carrots and onion into a bowl. Season with salt, then add the vinegar and sugar, and toss to combine. Leave for 20 mins for the vegetables to very lightly pickle.

2 Meanwhile, cook the corn on a hot barbecue or griddle pan for 4-5 mins on both sides until the kernels have darkened and charred slightly. Set aside to cool. Once cool, hold the cobs upright on a board and strip off the kernels in long downward strips using a sharp knife.

3 Stir the mustard and half the corn into the salad and taste for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Serve topped with the remaining corn.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 71 kcals • fat 2g • saturates none • carbs 10g • sugars 7g • fibre 4g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g

Sriracha & lime potato salad Jazz up your usual potato salad this summer with a spicy sriracha and zingy lime dressing. It’s a lively addition to any barbecue. Liberty Mendez SERVES 4-6 as a side PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

750g new potatoes, halved if large 80g mayonnaise 50g soured cream 2 tbsp sriracha 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 tsp honey 6 spring onions, finely sliced ½ small bunch of coriander, finely chopped ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional)

46 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

1 Tip the potatoes into a large pan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15-18 mins until tender. Drain and leave to cool completely.

2 Whisk the mayonnaise with the soured cream, sriracha, lime zest and juice, the honey, half the spring onions, most of the coriander and some seasoning.

3 Toss the cooled potatoes with the sriracha-mayonnaise mixture until all the potatoes are coated. Tip into a serving bowl and scatter over the remaining spring onions, the rest of the coriander and chilli flakes, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • vit c PER SERVING (6) 205 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 20g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.4g

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Three of the best

Portable BBQs A must-have for a staycation summer, whether you’re camping or heading to the beach. A portable barbecue is also infinitely better than a disposal one. Always make sure you have permission to barbecue and remember to clear up and take away all your rubbish.

Berghoff tabletop barbecue from £149, amara.com This stylish barbecue is lightweight despite being made of sturdy carbon steel.

The strong carrying strap is more than fit for purpose, and the cork lid cleverly doubles as a heatproof mat for using the barbecue on grass. When alight, the lid also acts as a vent to allow air into the firebox (or prevent too much coming in) from the bottom.

and subject to change.

Prices are correct at time of printing

Piccolino portable charcoal barbecue £44.99, landmann.com Light as a feather and easily portable, this barbecue is pretty solid and durable. It’s really easy to pack away – the coal sits in a small bowl inside the base, so all you have to do is remove this, throw away the remains and give it a quick wipe. Once in the box, it would easily fit under patio furniture or could be stored in a small cupboard.

LotusGrill £150, lotusgrill.co.uk The LotusGrill has a built-in fan to help the charcoal get to temperature in around 5 minutes. There’s no need to coax the coals – simply fire up the LotusGrill and you’ll have good heat for over half an hour. The charcoal is in an enclosed container, and with a fan going, you don’t get much charcoal flavour, but the efficiency and generous cooking area far outweighs this.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 47

Peach panna cotta trifle Combine the best of two brilliant desserts for this stunning centrepiece: creamy panna cotta and the great British trifle. We’ve given it a summery feel by using seasonal peaches poached in cardamom and orange blossom water, then layered them up with soft madiera sponge and cool custard. Cassie Best SERVES 12-14 PREP 1 hr 10 mins plus 5 hrs chilling and cooling COOK 35 mins MORE EFFORT

900ml double cream 150g caster sugar 1½ tsp vanilla extract 6 gelatine leaves 400g natural Greek-style yogurt 12 ripe peaches or nectarines 3 tbsp honey, plus a drizzle 10 cardamom pods 2 oranges, juiced 2 tsp orange blossom water (optional) 1 small madeira loaf (about 275g) 500g shop-bought fresh custard 2 tbsp icing sugar handful of pistachios, roughly chopped honeycomb, to garnish (optional; see recipe, right)

1 Start the trifle the day before you want to serve it. Pour 600ml of the cream into a saucepan along with 75g of the caster sugar and the vanilla. Warm gently over a low heat until steaming, then remove from the heat. Meanwhile, soak three of the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water for 5 mins until softened. Make sure to drop the gelatine leaves into the water one by one to prevent sticking.

2 When the gelatine leaves are soft, squeeze out the excess water and add to the warm cream mixture, whisking until the gelatine has dissolved. Whisk in half the yogurt – the mixture will start to thicken as the yogurt cools the cream. Pour the panna cotta mixture into a trifle bowl (ours was 20cm in diameter and 15cm deep). Chill for at least 2 hrs until the panna cotta has set.

3 Meanwhile, halve 10 of the peaches and remove the stones. Arrange the peaches cut-side up in a saucepan. Tip in the honey, cardamom pods, orange juice, orange blossom water (if using) and 75g caster sugar, then pour over

48 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

enough water to just cover the peaches.

Cut a circle of baking parchment to fit neatly over the peaches and place it directly on the surface of the liquid to stop the peaches from bobbing around too much as they cook. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 20-30 mins until the peaches are soft enough to squash against the side of the pan with a spoon (the timing will depend on the firmness of the fruit). Leave to cool in the syrup.

4 When the peaches have cooled, scoop onto a plate using a slotted spoon. Slip off the skins and discard them. Strain the peach syrup into a measuring jug – you should have about 600ml, but top up with orange juice if needed. If you have more than 600ml, you can keep the excess in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week to use in drinks.

5 Warm the peach syrup in a saucepan over a low heat or the microwave until just steaming. Meanwhile, soak the remaining three gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 mins until soft. Squeeze any excess water from the gelatine, then stir into the hot syrup until dissolved.

Set aside to cool until just warm.

6 Cut the madeira loaf into 2-3cm cubes and arrange over the panna cotta layer in the trifle bowl. Pour over the peach syrup and chill for another 1-2 hrs, or until the syrup has set into a jelly.

7 Arrange the poached peaches over the jelly layer, placing any pretty coral-pink pieces against the glass side. Pour the custard over the peaches, then chill until you’re ready to serve – we recommend chilling for at least 2 hrs, but it can also be chilled overnight to get ahead.

8 When you’re ready to serve, beat the remaining 300ml double cream with the icing sugar to soft peaks using an electric whisk. Swirl though the remaining yogurt. Spoon the cream mixture over the custard layer, starting around the edge of the bowl, then filling

in the middle. Halve, stone and finely slice the remaining two peaches, then arrange the slices on top and drizzle with some honey. Sprinkle over the chopped pistachios and nestle in shards of honeycomb, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (14) 587 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 26g • carbs 43g • sugars 38g • fibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.3g

Honeycomb MAKES about 15 shards PREP 5 mins plus 1 hr cooling COOK 10 mins EASY V

vegetable oil, for the tin 200g caster sugar 5 tbsp golden syrup 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 Oil a 20cm square tin and line with baking parchment. Combine the caster sugar and golden syrup in a deep saucepan over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, about 5 mins. Try not to let the mixture bubble until the sugar grains have dissolved.

2 Once the sugar has completely dissolved, turn up the heat slightly and simmer until you have an ambercoloured caramel (watch carefully, as this won’t take long). As quickly as you can, remove the pan from the heat, tip in the bicarbonate of soda and beat with a wooden spoon until all the bicarb has disappeared and the mixture is foaming.

Immediately scrape into the prepared tin, but be careful, as it will be very hot.

3 The mixture will continue bubbling in the tin. Leave for 1 hr-1 hr 30 mins until the honeycomb has hardened, then break into chunks or shards.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • gluten free PER SERVING 73 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 18g • sugars 18g • fibre none • protein none • salt 0.4g

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JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 49

Halloumi hash, p52

campsite cooking There’s nothing quite like cooking in the great outdoors, and with these easy recipes up your sleeve, brunch and dinner are sorted – just don’t forget the can opener!

50 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

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Smoky sausage & black bean chilli, p52 JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 51

Halloumi hash You only need a handful of ingredients and a large frying pan to whip up this substantial brunch, making it the perfect food to fuel a day out and about. Cassie Best SERVES 2-4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

2 tbsp vegetable oil 3 medium potatoes (about 700g), cut into 1cm chunks small bunch of spring onions, chopped, white and green parts separated ½ tsp paprika 250g block of halloumi, cut into 2cm chunks 4 eggs chilli sauce of your choice, to serve (we used chipotle ketchup)

1 Heat half the oil in a large frying pan and cook the potato over a low-medium heat for 10-15 mins, stirring often until softened in the middle and crisp on the outside (it will take some time for the potato to cook through). Add the white parts of the spring onion and the paprika.

Cook for another minute, stirring.

2 Push the potatoes to one side of the pan, then add the rest of the oil to the other side and fry the chunks of halloumi until slightly golden.

Mix the potatoes in with the halloumi and some seasoning.

3 Divide the hash between plates and keep warm. Crack the eggs into the pan and fry until cooked to your liking. Top the hash with the eggs, then drizzle with chilli sauce and scatter over the green parts of the spring onions.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (4) 505 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 13g • carbs 34g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 28g • salt 2.2g

next month Holiday favourites Dishes that evoke fun times abroad, on sale from 29 July

Smoky sausage & black bean chilli

grated cheddar, natural yogurt or soured cream, and tortilla chips, jacket potatoes or rice, to serve

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr EASY ❄

2 tbsp vegetable oil 8 sausages of your choice 1 large onion (red or white), finely chopped 2 peppers (red, orange or yellow, or a mixture), sliced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 heaped tbsp chipotle paste (optional) 400g chopped tomatoes 2 tbsp ketchup 400g can black beans, drained handful of coriander, leaves picked, to serve (optional)

1 Heat half the oil in a large pan and cook the sausages for 12-15 mins over a medium heat until brown all over and cooked through. Remove to a plate.

2 Drizzle the rest of the oil into the pan and cook the onion and peppers for 10 mins, over a low heat stirring often until all the veg has softened.

3 Stir in the garlic, all the spices and the chipotle paste, if using, and cook for another minute. Add the tomatoes, a canful of water, the ketchup and some seasoning. Bring to a simmer and cook for 20 mins half-covered with a lid or loosely

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covered with foil. Stir occasionally, topping up with water if the mixture starts to look too thick.

4 Slice the cooked sausages into thick coins and return to the pan, then tip in the beans. Cook for another few minutes until heated through, then spoon into bowls and scatter with coriander leaves, if using, some grated cheese and a dollop of yogurt or soured cream.

Serve with tortilla chips for scooping, as a filling for jacket potatoes, or over rice.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 456 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 7g • carbs 31g • sugars 14g • fibre 11g • protein 19g • salt 1.5g

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& Jaega Wise rolls out the blanket and invites a group of al fresco aficionados to indulge in some picnic nostalgia, as they explore the British love of eating outdoors (when possible). They reflect on how the pandemic has encouraged more creative and adventurous eating options in The Food Programme at 12.30pm on Sunday 4 July on BBC Radio 4.

To listen, search BBC Sounds for ‘The Food Programme Puddings’.

Shoot director BEN CURTIS | Food stylist KATIE GIOVANNI | Stylist AGATHÉ GITS

Gather round the campfire and serve this chilli one-pot with tortilla chips for scooping up the smoky, spiced beans and sausages. It has a mild heat but you can add more chipotle or fresh chillies if you prefer more of a kick. At home, it’s delicious spooned over a steamy jacket potato or rice. Cassie Best

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Five of the best

Camping foods Pack these versatile ingredients on your next trip – all of which can be kept at ambient temperatures – and you’ll never go hungry.

LONG-LIFE FLATBREADS Unlike a loaf, these won’t get squashed.

Make burritos, breakfast wraps or kebabs.

CHORIZO It instantly adds depth of flavour.

Try it sliced in fried rice and pasta dishes, or a potato hash.

CANNED SARDINES Buy the type packed in oil, then you can simply stir into spaghetti or eat on toast with tomatoes.

SPICE BLEND Choose one mix that can be used in different ways.

Garam masala or fajita spice mix are our favourites.

CANNED FRUIT Make this into a simple dessert, or serve with yogurt for a quick breakfast.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 53

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easy midweek

n Chipotle & lime prawn burrito bowls page 60

family

n Chorizo & chickpea summer stew page 72

40

simple recipes for busy weekdays

friday night n Beer-battered fish burgers page 64

healthy diet plan n Seafood spaghetti page 81 JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 57

15-minute meals

no-cook dinners

Whip up vibrant, wholesome recipes in just 15 minutes – no hob or oven required

recipes LIBERTY MENDEZ photographs HAYLEY BENOIT

£3.25 per serving

Chipotle & lime prawn burrito bowls, p60

We strive to make all our midweek meals balanced or healthy. Learn more about our guidelines on page 145

58 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

easy midweek

your shopping list FRUIT & VEGETABLES 2 carrots 1 cucumber 150g sugar snap peas 2 small garlic cloves thumb-sized piece of ginger 1 red chilli 2 red onions 4 spring onions 1 avocado 4 large tomatoes 2 small beetroots 200g radishes 80g baby spinach 60g rocket 2 small pears 2 limes 2 lemons

Veggie vermicelli, p60

HERBS & SPICES 1 small bunch of coriander 11/2 small bunches of mint 1 small bunch of parsley 1/2 small bunch of chives 1/2 tsp chilli flakes STORECUPBOARD 250g leftover cooked rice 200g rice vermicelli noodles 100g couscous 2 tbsp unsalted peanuts 2 tsp honey 1/2 tsp caster sugar 2 tsp chipotle paste 250g pouch cooked grains 200g cooked puy lentils 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 400g can kidney beans ◆

198g can sweetcorn 130ml olive oil 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar 3 tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar MEAT & FISH 125g cooked king prawns 4 thin slices of ham DAIRY 2 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche 55g feta ◆ 50g ricotta ◆ FROZEN 200g frozen peas

£2.41 per serving

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 59

Chipotle & lime prawn burrito bowls SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins plus at least 1 hr pickling NO COOK EASY

1 red onion, finely sliced 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar ½ tsp caster sugar 250g leftover cooked rice 1 lime, zested and juiced, plus extra lime wedges to serve (optional) 4 spring onions, finely sliced 400g can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 198g can sweetcorn, drained 1 avocado, stoned, peeled and sliced 2 large tomatoes, finely chopped 2 tbsp low-fat crème fraîche

Veggie vermicelli SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V

200g rice vermicelli noodles 2 carrots, finely shredded ½ cucumber, peeled into ribbons using a vegetable peeler 150g sugar snap peas, halved at an angle ½ small bunch of coriander, finely chopped 2 tbsp unsalted peanuts, toasted and roughly chopped For the dressing 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp rice vinegar

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60 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

½ small bunch of coriander, roughly chopped ½ tsp chilli flakes (optional) For the prawns 2 tsp chipotle paste ½ tsp honey 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 tsp olive oil 125g cooked king prawns

1 Mix the red onion with the vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt.

Cover and leave to pickle for at least 1 hr or overnight. To prepare the prawns, mix the chipotle paste, honey, lime zest and juice and oil together, then toss in the prawns until they’re coated in the mixture.

2 Put the leftover rice in a large bowl and mix with the lime zest

½ tsp honey thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and grated 2 small garlic cloves, grated 1 red chilli, finely sliced

1 Put the noodles in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiled water from the kettle. Leave for 3-5 mins to soften, then drain and plunge the noodles into a bowl of cold water to prevent them drying out. Set aside.

2 Whisk all the dressing ingredients with 2 tsp cold water in a small bowl and season lightly. Put the carrots, cucumber ribbons, sugar snap peas and half the coriander in a bowl, then toss with half the dressing.

and juice, most of the spring onions and the kidney beans.

Season lightly. Spoon the mixture into two shallow bowls.

3 Top the rice with the pickled red onions, spiced prawns, sweetcorn, sliced avocado, the remaining spring onions and tomatoes. Spoon the crème fraîche on top, then serve with the coriander and a sprinkling of chilli flakes, if you want it spicy.

Serve the extra lime wedges on the side for squeezing over, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW balanced • folate • fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 564 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 5g • carbs 70g • sugars 18g • fibre 14g • protein 23g • salt 1.7g

3 Drain the noodles well, then toss with the vegetables. Divide between two plates, then top with the rest of the coriander and the peanuts.

Serve with the remaining dressing on the side for drizzling over.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 699 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 4g • carbs 100g • sugars 14g • fibre 8g • protein 15g • salt 0.2g

SAVE 30%

easy midweek

£1.62 per serving

Balsamic feta & mint puy lentils SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V

2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar ½ small bunch of mint, finely chopped, plus extra leaves to serve 55g feta, cut into cubes 200g frozen peas

200g cooked puy lentils 200g radishes, finely sliced

1 Whisk 1 tbsp of the olive oil with 1 tbsp of the balsamic vinegar and half the chopped mint. Stir in the feta, then set aside.

2 Put the kettle on to boil. Tip the peas into a large heatproof bowl, pour over enough boiling water to defrost them, then drain and return to the bowl. Put the lentils in a fine mesh sieve, pour over some boiling

water to warm them, then drain and tip into the bowl with the peas.

3 Add the radishes and toss together with the remaining oil, vinegar and mint. Divide between bowls and top with the marinated feta. Grind over some black pepper, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW balanced • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 448 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 6g • carbs 37g • sugars 10g • fibre 15g • protein 24g • salt 0.8g

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 61

Ham, cheese & pear salad SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY

100g couscous 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp honey 80g baby spinach 60g rocket 2 small pears, cored, quartered and finely sliced 50g ricotta ½ small bunch of chives, finely sliced 1 lemon, zested 4 thin slices of ham, shredded

1 Tip the couscous into a heatproof bowl and pour over 140ml boiling water from the kettle. Cover and leave for 4 mins. Meanwhile, whisk the olive oil, mustard, vinegar and honey together in a bowl. Set aside.

2 Toss the spinach, rocket and pears with the dressing. Fluff the couscous with a fork, then mix into the salad while still warm (this will wilt the greens slightly).

Divide between two plates.

3 Combine the ricotta and 2 tbsp water with most of the chives and the lemon zest. Top the salad with spoonfuls of the ricotta mixture, the ham and remaining chives.

Finish with a grinding of black pepper, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW balanced • low cal • calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 464 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 4g • carbs 53g • sugars 14g • fibre 6g • protein 20g • salt 1.6g

62 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

£2.19 per serving

easy midweek

£2.43 per serving

Beetroot tabbouleh SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY V

250g pouch cooked grains 2 small beetroots, peeled and quartered small bunch of mint, leaves picked, plus extra to serve small bunch of parsley, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 lemon, zested and juiced

2 tomatoes, finely chopped 1 red onion, finely chopped ½ cucumber, finely chopped

1 Put the kettle on to boil. Tip the grains into a fine mesh sieve, pour over a kettleful of boiling water, over the sink, leave to drain, then tip into a large bowl. Put the beetroot, most of the herbs, the olive oil, lemon juice and 5-6 tbsp cold water in a food processor and blitz until smooth. Season lightly, adding a splash more water to loosen if

needed. Mix into the bowl of grains and stir until they are well-coated.

2 Toss the tomatoes, onion, cucumber and lemon zest into the grain mixture until combined.

Season to taste. Divide between two plates, sprinkle with more herbs and drizzle with a little olive oil.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 422 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 3g • carbs 50g • sugars 12g • fibre 11g • protein 10g • salt 0.2g

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 63

easy midweek

friday night treat

big & bold fish burgers This extra-special twist on a takeaway classic is served with quick-pickled onions to make a satisfying dinner for two

Beer-battered fish burgers We’ve gone with the full, golden, beer-battered experience with this, but you can coat strips of fish in breadcrumbs and bake them instead, for something more like a posh fish-finger sandwich. If you are deep-frying and want to make the most of any leftover batter, the pickled onions can also be coated in it and fried to create a moreish side of pickled onion rings.

SERVES 2 PREP 40 mins COOK 10 mins MORE EFFORT

500ml sunflower oil, for deep-frying 2 thick skinless fillets of cod, pollock or haddock (100g-120g each) 2 soft rolls or burger buns a few lettuce leaves (round lettuce works well) For the pickled onions 1 small red onion, sliced into rings (not too thin) 1 tsp malt vinegar

For the dill tartar sauce 1 small gherkin, chopped, plus 1 sliced gherkin to serve (optional), and a splash of the brine small handful of dill sprigs, chopped 5 tbsp mayonnaise For the batter 50g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting 20g cornflour small pinch each of turmeric and cayenne pepper 100ml cold lager or fizzy water

1 To quick-pickle the onions, mix them with a pinch of salt and the vinegar, then set aside. Mix all the ingredients for the tartar sauce, and set aside. Both can be made up to a day ahead and kept chilled.

2 To make the batter, tip the flours and spices into a small bowl with a pinch of salt, then pour over the beer or fizzy water. Mix quickly

until it just comes together with the consistency of double cream – don’t over-beat (a few lumps are fine). Keep chilled until needed.

3 Carefully heat the oil in a large wide pan like a wok, ensuring the pan is no more than two-thirds full, or heat a deep-fat fryer to 185C if you have a thermometer. The oil is hot enough when a drizzle of batter crisps in less than a minute.

4 Working quickly, season the fish with salt, then dust in flour before dredging through the batter. Hold the fillet above the bowl of batter to let the excess drip back into it, then carefully lower into the oil.

Repeat with the second fillet.

Fry the two fillets for about 4 mins, turning once, until deep golden and crisp. Carefully, lift onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain for a minute.

5 To assemble, split each roll and spread both the top and bottom generously with the tartar sauce.

Place lettuce on the bottom half, then add some pickled onions and a fish fillet. Top with gherkin slices, if you like, then serve straightaway.

PER SERVING 716 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 4g • carbs 54g • sugars 4g • fibre 3g • protein 29g • salt 1.2g

64 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist AMY KINNEAR

recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MIKE ENGLISH

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reduce waste

use your leftovers Make the most of any surplus from our July recipes using these clever and quick ideas FROM THIS ISSUE Crispy sriracha potatoes Use any leftover sriracha & lime potato salad (p46) to make roast potatoes – they become extra-crisp as they’re already coated in mayonnaise and oil. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7, spread the potatoes out over a large baking tray and roast for 30 mins, tossing occasionally until golden and crisp.

Coronation rice salad Turn any leftover one-pot chicken & curry rice (p74) into lunch the next day by chilling it overnight, then dressing with mayonnaise, extra curry powder and mango chutney, if you like.

Miso garlic bread Spread any leftover miso butter (p90) over a split baguette, then wrap in foil and bake at 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 for 10 mins until the butter has melted and the bread is crisp.

Sticky lamb naan Finely chop any leftover maple & chilli-glazed leg of lamb (p90) and reheat in a frying pan until sticky and caramelised. Scatter the lamb over warmed naans and top with a handful of chopped coriander and extra sliced green chillies, if you like.

66 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

IDEAS FOR

Custard

Capers

If you made the cherry, custard & almond sponge cake (p96)

If you made the seedy scones with smoked salmon (p102)

 Seasonal pavlova Fold custard through mascarpone, then spoon over a pavlova along with seasonal fruit. (Try our ‘perfect pavlova’, above, on bbcgoodfood.com.)  Quick fruit fool Whisk double cream with icing sugar and fold through some custard. Gently fold in a compote of your choice (gooseberry, rhubarb or mango & lime work well) so the mixture has a rippled effect. Spoon into glasses and chill.  Dulce de leche ice cream lollies Blitz custard with natural yogurt and icing sugar along with a spoonful of dulce de leche to combine. Pour into lolly moulds and freeze until solid.

 Caper butter sauce Fry 1-2 tbsp capers in butter until the butter turns golden brown and smells nutty. Stir in the juice of 1/2 lemon. Pour the sauce over pan-fried fish, such as dover sole or plaice.  Fridge-raid salsa verde Blitz soft herbs (parsley, coriander or basil) with 1-2 tbsp capers, Dijon mustard, red wine vinegar and olive oil.  Mustardy mayonnaise Mix roughly chopped capers with mayonnaise, wholegrain mustard and tarragon.

Serve with roast chicken and chips or in fish finger sarnies.

easy midweek

WHAT TO DO WITH

◆ half a can

of kidney beans Tip the kidney beans into a reusable container and chill until needed. You should use the beans within three days.

Refried beans Fry 1 crushed garlic clove with 1 chopped onion, tip in the kidney beans, 1 tsp each ground cumin and ground coriander and 100ml water. Simmer until soft. Roughly mash or blitz.

MIDWEEK MAGIC Don’t waste anything after making our weeknight dinners (page 58)

Spicy bean jacket Mash the kidney beans lightly, then mix with 25g grated cheddar and a splash of chilli sauce.

Serve over a baked potato.

MAKE MORE OF

◆ ricotta Frittata

Icing

Make a standard frittata extra-cheesy by adding a spoonful of ricotta to the mixture.

Or, try our ricotta, broccoli & new potato frittata (above) on bbcgoodfood.com.

Spoon the ricotta into a square of muslin, tie into a parcel and drain over a colander in the sink. Whip the drained ricotta with some icing sugar and lemon zest for a delicious topping for carrot cake.

Other serving ideas: Turn a bowl of vegetable soup into a hearty meal by adding kidney beans to it, or make steamed rice a bit more filling by mixing in kidney beans while fluffing the rice using a fork. Serve the rice & beans alongside your main.

Pancakes Substitute some of the milk in the batter for ricotta. If you like, you can also add some lemon zest to give the pancakes a zesty hit of flavour.

Ricotta dip Beat the ricotta with lemon juice using an electric whisk until smooth. Season, tip into a bowl and drizzle with olive oil.

HOW TO USE

◆ half a pack of feta Remove leftover feta from its packaging and store in a reusable container in the fridge.  Tahini & feta toast Spread tahini over toast, top with crumbled feta and drizzle with honey.  Feta & fruit bowl Crumble feta over soft fruits of your choice, such as sliced melon, peaches or nectarines.

 Honey-baked feta Put the feta on a sheet of foil, drizzle with olive oil and top with a rosemary sprig and honey. Wrap in the foil and bake at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 15 mins. Serve hot with crusty bread or pittas.

GOOD FOOD & SUSTAINABILITY At BBC Good Food, we seek realistic solutions to avoid food waste and packaging, and adhere to the three Rs: 1) Reducing food waste 2) Recycling packaging 3) Reusing food storage packaging and containers. To find out more, go to bbcgoodfood. com/reduce-reuse-recycle.

Plus, listen to the Food Programme’s inspiring Food Waste Pioneers broadcast about people who tackle food waste issues on BBC Radio 4.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 67

easy family

family

easy one-pot meals Save yourself time washing up with these simple recipes, which can all be cooked in just one pot or pan recipes SHIVI RAMOUTAR photographs MIKE ENGLISH

Cookery writer Shivi Ramoutar has written two modern Caribbean cookbooks. A former MasterChef semi-finalist, Shivi is also a regular guest on Saturday Kitchen. Catch Saturday Kitchen Live at 10am on Saturdays on BBC One or BBC iPlayer. @shiviramoutar

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 69

Oven-roasted sweet potato & courgette tortilla This tortilla is baked rather than fried making it healthier and easier to throw together. If you don’t have manchego, you can use cheddar or crumbled feta.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V

2 medium sweet potatoes (500g), peeled and thinly sliced 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 courgette, thinly sliced 2 tbsp olive oil

70 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

6 eggs 50g crème fraîche 30g manchego or vegetarian alternative, grated 1 tbsp chopped chives green salad, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ gas 5. Tip the sweet potato slices, onion and courgette into a medium non-stick baking dish (ours was 18cm x 30cm x 4cm), drizzle with the olive oil, season and mix everything together. Bake for 30 mins, tossing the veg halfway.

The sweet potatoes should be

tender, the courgette a little charred and the onion softened.

2 Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and the crème fraîche together along with a pinch of seasoning. Pour the beaten egg mixture over the sweet potato, onion and courgette. Sprinkle over the manchego and put back in the oven for 25-30 mins until the tortilla is just set. Sprinkle over the chives and eat hot or cold with salad.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 379 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 9g • carbs 29g • sugars 16g • fibre 6g • protein 15g • salt 0.6g

easy family

Fridge-raid soup You can make this recipe your own using up any bits and bobs you have. Make a tomatoey soup with any leftover veg you have, then finish it with flavourful toppings.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 sticks of celery, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 thyme sprig 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 litre vegetable or chicken stock

400g can chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g cans cannelini beans, drained a large handful of green veg (about 150g, use any seasonal veg you have – courgette, green beans, chard, spinach etc), roughly chopped 1 large potato, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes To serve chopped parsley, crumbled feta, torn olives, chilli flakes (optional), extra virgin olive oil, crusty bread

1 Heat the oil in a large pan on a medium heat and cook the onion, carrot and celery until soft, about

10 mins, then add the garlic, thyme and tomato purée. Pour in the stock along with the tomatoes, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 mins.

2 Add the cannelini beans, the green veg and potato pieces, along with a generous pinch of seasoning. Cover and simmer for another 15-20 mins or so until the veg is tender and the soup has thickened. Top with some parsley, crumbled feta, olives, chilli flakes (for those who like spice) and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Serve with crusty bread on the side for dunking.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 434 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 8g • carbs 41g • sugars 13g • fibre 14g • protein 21g • salt 2.1g

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 71

Chorizo & chickpea summer stew SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat, add the garlic, thyme and smoked paprika, and stir for a few minutes, then tip in the chorizo and stir for another couple of minutes until its oil is released.

Splash in the sherry vinegar and let it bubble for a minute or so.

2 Add the tomatoes, peppers, spinach and chickpeas along with 100ml water and a pinch of seasoning. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the tomatoes have softened and there is a thickened sauce, about 15 mins. Adjust the seasoning and finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Serve with crusty bread.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 449 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 7g • carbs 29g • sugars 6g • fibre 10g • protein 25g • salt 1.7g

72 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

Shoot director CLOE ROSE-MANN | Food stylist KATY GILHOOLY | Stylist AMY KINNEAR

1 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 thyme sprigs 1 tbsp smoked paprika 200g chorizo ring, sliced into thin coins 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 600g cherry tomatoes, halved 450g jar roasted red peppers, drained and cut into large strips 100g spinach 2 x 400g cans chickpeas, drained drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread, to serve

easy family

Pulled BBQ aubergine & black bean burgers These veggie buns have all the comforting textures of meat but are completely vegan and have a moreish smoky flavour. Get the kids to help you prep the veg and enjoy al fresco.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V

2 large aubergines, pricked all over with a fork 1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 1 heaped tsp garlic granules 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp demerara sugar

1 tsp dried oregano 5 tbsp barbecue sauce 400g can black beans, drained 4 burger buns, toasted and lightly buttered red onion or pink pickled onion, shredded lettuce, coleslaw and corn on the cob, to serve (optional)

1 Heat the grill to high and grill the aubergine, turning occasionally, until blackened and soft all over, about 20-30 mins. Set aside to cool.

2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large ovenproof pan over a medium heat, add the onion and fry until softened and golden, about 10 mins. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.

3 Peel the skin from the cooled aubergine and discard it, or scoop

out the flesh using a spoon, then put in the pan with the onion. Add the garlic granules, paprika, sugar, oregano, 1 tsp sea salt and 1 tsp black pepper. Stir until aromatic, then mix in the barbecue sauce along with the black beans. Season and bake until the sauce is rich and thick, and the aubergine resembles pulled pork – about 10-15 mins.

4 Pile into the burger buns with the red onion or pink pickled onion and any other burger fillings you like.

Enjoy with coleslaw and corn on the cob on the side, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 439 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 2g • carbs 69g • sugars 20g • fibre 13g • protein 16g • salt 1.4g

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 73

easy family

One-pot chicken & curry rice

next month Summer holidays

SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY

2 tbsp vegetable oil or ghee 2 large onions, finely sliced 4 large garlic cloves, crushed thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped 4 heaped tbsp mild curry paste 1 tsp turmeric 4 cardamom pods, bashed 1 cinnamon stick 4 small skinless chicken breasts or 8 skinless and boneless chicken thighs (about 600g), cut into bite-sized chunks 250g basmati rice, rinsed 600ml chicken stock 200ml coconut milk 75g frozen peas 150g green beans, trimmed and halved

½ cauliflower (about 225g) broken into small florets 50g raisins or sultanas coriander leaves, flaked almonds, plain yogurt and mango chutney, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a a large casserole dish (that has a lid) over a medium heat, then fry the onion, garlic and ginger until brown and fragrant, about 10 mins. Stir in the curry paste, turmeric, cardamom and cinnamon, and stir for a few minutes. Add the chicken and cook for another couple of minutes, stirring to colour on all sides.

2 Add the rice, stir well, then stir in the stock, coconut milk, a generous pinch of seasoning, the veg and

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Delicious ideas for days out during the break in our August issue, on sale 29 July

raisins. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer, pop the lid on and cook for about 25-30 mins until the water has been absorbed, the chicken and rice are cooked through, and the veg is tender.

Season to taste. Remove the cardamom and cinnamon stick, then scatter over the almonds and coriander. Serve with yogurt and mango chutney on the side.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 485 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 7g • carbs 47g • sugars 14g • fibre 7g • protein 31g • salt 1.2g

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easy family

good advice

family matters Our food director and mum of two Cassie Best talks festivals with Alex James and shares a recipe for a veg-packed soup KIDS IN THE KITCHEN Classic minestrone Kids can help to whip up this simple, healthy lunch.

SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 50 mins EASY ❄

LET’S GET OUTSIDE

Family festivals

Pictures WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES

With festival season in full swing, we asked Alex James, who hosts The Big Feastival, for his advice on taking the family to outdoor events.

Come early If you’re nervous about taking the whole family off to their first festival, I’d recommend starting with a day trip. It’s best to come on the first day, usually a Friday, particularly if you’re coming with kids. Tickets are often cheaper, and everybody is fresh and full of anticipation!

Try everything on offer Kids love camping – my lot would rather stay in a tent than Claridge’s – and a festival is just camping with bells and whistles. There’s usually something for everyone, with plenty

3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 onion, finely chopped 1 celery stick, finely chopped 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped 1 courgette, finely chopped 70g diced smoked pancetta 1 large garlic clove, crushed ½ tsp dried oregano 400g can cannellini beans 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tbsp tomato purée 1.2 litres vegetable stock 1 bay leaf 70g small pasta, such as orzo 100g greens (kale, chard or cavolo nero work well) handful of basil, to serve finely grated parmesan, to serve

the onion, celery, carrot, courgette and pancetta for 10 mins. Add the garlic and oregano, and cook for 1 min. Tip in the beans, chopped tomatoes, tomato purée, stock and bay leaf. Season to taste. Bring to the simmer and cook for 30 mins.

2 Add the pasta and greens, and cook for a further 10 mins. Ladle into bowls and scatter with the basil and some parmesan.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • vit c • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 255 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs 22g • sugars 8g • fibre 7g • protein 9g • salt 1g

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a low-medium heat, and gently fry

of opportunities to learn something new during the day. We’ve got everything from stop-frame motion animation classes to philosophy school this year.

Be prepared Weather is the main thing to prepare for – this is British summer, after all. You’ll need the three Ws: wellies, waterproofs and wet wipes.

As long as you’re prepared, you’ll have nothing to worry about. Actually, a little bit of rain is a good thing, just for the sense of euphoria across the whole site when the sun comes out again.

FESTIVALS

What’s on this summer

Womad 2021 Wiltshire, 22-25 July womad.co.uk

Just So Festival Cheshire, 20-22 August justsofestival.org.uk

Camp Bestival Dorset, 29 July-1 August campbestival.net

The Big Feastival Cotswolds, 27-29 August thebigfeastival.com

Wilderness Festival Oxfordshire, 5-8 August wildernessfestival.com

Camp Good Life North Wales, 17-19 September thegoodlifesociety.co.uk

Travelling Feast Cornwall, 6-21 August travellingfeast.co.uk

Pub in the Park Various locations and dates, pubintheparkuk.com

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 77

health

news

Health editor Tracey Raye shares advice for warmer weather and a meze-style recipe DISCOVER

How to stay cool in a heatwave Although many of us enjoy the sunshine, very high temperatures can be dangerous, especially for those susceptible to heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Here’s how to beat the heat in summer.

1 During the daytime, keep curtains and blinds closed in any rooms that are exposed to direct sunlight.

2 Open all the windows in your house when the air is cooler – for example, when the house is in shade – to encourage air-flow and circulation.

3 Stay hydrated. Your fluid needs are higher when the temperature rises, because your body needs to replace the fluid that’s lost when you sweat.

4 Increase your intake of lighter, fresher foods, such as fresh fruits and vegetables.

These are useful sources of hydration.

Seasonal courgettes are a good choice.

5 If possible, choose lightweight, loose-fitting clothing in pale colours.

Cotton and linen absorb perspiration well and encourage ventilation.

6 Keep out of the heat when the sun is at its hottest (typically between 11am and 3pm). Do any exercise or physical chores at cooler times of the day, such as early morning or late evening.

7 If you do need to go out, keep in the shade, wear a wide-brimmed hat and apply sunscreen frequently.

• Check out bbcgoodfood.com/howto/ guide/how-keep-cool-heatwave for even more tips and advice.

HEALTH BENEFITS OF Offers eye-supporting lutein and zeaxanthin

PEPPERS Bell peppers (capsicum annuum) are fruits that belong to the nightshade family. They can be eaten cooked or raw, but the preparation may change the nutritional profile.

Low in calories

Source of heart-healthy potassium

• For more on why you should eat peppers, visit bbcgoodfood.com

78 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

Provides vitamins K1, E and A

Rich in skin-loving antioxidant lycopene (when cooked)

More vitamin C than an orange (raw)

HEALTH TREND Turmeric chicken with butter bean hummus & roasted peppers A potent anti-inflammatory, turmeric is an antioxidant spice with many proven health benefits.

The chicken and peppers can also be cooked on the barbecue.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY

1 large red pepper, halved and deseeded 1 tsp vegetable oil 160g long-stemmed broccoli handful of mint leaves, to serve For the chicken and marinade 2 large skinless chicken breast fillets (about 125g each) 120g natural yogurt 3 tbsp finely grated turmeric (see below) ½ tsp each cumin seeds and ground coriander 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil For the butter bean hummus 400g can butter beans, drained, liquid reserved 1 tbsp lemon zest, plus 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus a drizzle 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped ½ tsp each cumin seeds and ground coriander

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Line a baking sheet with foil.

Make a few small cuts around the edges of the pepper halves using a sharp knife, then flatten them as much as you can with your palm.

Rub with the veg oil and roast on the lined baking sheet for 10 mins.

2 Meanwhile, cut the chicken breasts in half lengthways at an angle so you end up with four thin fillets. Mix the yogurt, turmeric, cumin seeds, ground coriander, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil with some black pepper in a bowl.

Add the chicken and turn to coat in the marinade. When the peppers have had 10 mins, turn them over, add the chicken fillets to the sheet, spacing them apart slightly, and spoon any remaining marinade over them. Roast for 20 mins, turning the

Additional photographs THE BURTONS/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES, SILKE WOWERIES/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY IMAGES

Recipe photograph HAYLEY BENOIT | Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist LIBERTY FENNELL | Stylist ROB MERRETT

easy health

chicken fillets halfway, until cooked through.

3 For the hummus, use a hand blender to blitz together the beans, lemon zest and juice, olive oil, garlic, cumin seeds and coriander with 6 tbsp liquid from the can, some salt and plenty of black pepper.

It should be completely smooth.

4 When the chicken has been cooking for 10 mins, steam the broccoli for 6 mins until tender.

Spoon the hummus over two plates, then top with the roasted peppers and chicken. Scatter with the mint, drizzle with olive oil and serve with the broccoli on the side.

FRESH TURMERIC l

l

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 460 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 4g • carbs 28g • sugars 11g • fibre 14g • protein 44g • salt 0.3g

You can usually find fresh turmeric in large supermarkets or online. But, if you can’t get hold of any, use 1 tsp ground turmeric.

Turmeric can cause staining. Line your chopping board with baking parchment to protect it, and wear rubber gloves.

l

l

Peel the skin from turmeric as you would for fresh ginger, by carefully scraping it with the blade of a sharp knife.

Generously season with black pepper when using turmeric. The piperine in pepper enhances the absorption of the beneficial curcumin in the turmeric.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 79

Grow your offer own fruit reader

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The cherries are fabulously sweet and you‘ll pick up to 5kg per season once established, saving a small fortune over the bush’s life. Porthos is 100% self-fertile, and has cherry blossoms that will bring colour and fragrance in early spring. It’s easy to grow and hardy – perfect for any small garden or a patio pot. Supplied as a 50-70cm tall plant in a 3-litre pot. Eventual height is 1.5-2m. ● New and exclusive to YouGarden ● The world’s first cherry bush – pick your fruit with ease ● Compact – ideal for small gardens and patios ● Stock is strictly limited – ORDER NOW! Item code: 300176

Complete blueberry growing kit Pick delicious berries all summer, every year – plus, save £10

You can now grow your own blueberries with this complete kit. And, you don‘t even need a garden – just a small space on a patio or balcony will do.

Blueberries are delicious eaten fresh from the bush, sprinkled over cereal or used in jams and puddings. YouGarden provides three top-performing varieties, all packed with vitamin C and antioxidants. The complete blueberry growing kit contains three plants in 9cm pots (‘New Hanover’, ‘Blueray’ and ‘Ozark Blue’), three planters and 60 litres of compost. ● Item code: 310083

Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers

Lemon Citron tree Worth £9.99 Yes, you can grow fresh lemons in the UK! In winter and early spring, the tree is covered with fragrant blossoms.

Fruits mature and ripen over a whole year, so plants can have fruit and flowers at the same time. Grow outside in the summer and bring indoors in winter.

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a cheque payable to YouGarden, to: OFFER GF154, YOUGARDEN, PO BOX 1468, PETERBOROUGH, PE1 9XL Terms and conditions Offer closes on 30 August 2021 or while stocks last. Offer subject to availability and in the event that this offer is oversubscribed, we reserve the right to send suitable substitute varieties of the same or higher value. *Every blueberry or cherry order from this page will receive a free lemon tree. **P&P is £6.99 with delivery to UK mainland only. A £6 surcharge may apply to the following postcode areas: AB, DD8-11, GY, HS, IM, IV, JE, KA27-28, KW, PA20-80, PH19-50, TR21-25 and ZE. Following Brexit there are a number of changes that prevent us from trading in N. Ireland. For further details please visit yougarden.com. Images show mature plants.

Full product details and T&Cs at yougarden.com. Your contract is with YouGarden Ltd, Eventus House, Sunderland Road, Market Deeping, PE6 8FD. Calls cost 5p per minute plus your network provider’s access charge.

80 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

easy health

healthy diet plan

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist FAYE WEARS

a taste of the sea

Be transported to a beachside restaurant with a bowl of shellfish pasta that’s bursting with nutrients recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH

Seafood spaghetti SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

IRON

VIT C

FIBRE

2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 1 small fennel bulb (160g), halved and thinly sliced 1 onion (160g), finely chopped 150g wholemeal spaghetti 2 large pinches of chilli flakes 3 garlic cloves, finely grated ½ lemon, zested, plus 2 tbsp juice

3 tbsp tomato purée 300g frozen mixed seafood (we used a mixture of prawns, mussels and squid rings), defrosted 3 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Heat the oil in a large non-stick pan and cook the fennel and onion for 10 mins, stirring occasionally until softened. Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to the boil and cook the spaghetti for 10 mins until al dente.

2 When the fennel and onion mixture has softened, stir in the chilli flakes, garlic, lemon zest and juice. Add the tomato purée and cook briefly, stirring all the time.

3 Drain the pasta, reserving a mugful (around 250ml) of the cooking water. Stir the seafood into the tomato sauce and warm through. Toss the spaghetti into the sauce with the parsley and just enough of the reserved cooking water to loosen. Season and serve.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 531 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 2g • carbs 57g • sugars 8g • fibre 11g • protein 35g • salt 0.8g

Scan here to sign up for a free My Good Food account and access our latest Healthy Diet Plan, or visit bbcgoodfood.com/healthy-diet-plan

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 81

Learn with BECOME AN EXPERT BAKER WITH GUIDANCE FROM THE PROS BBC Good Food has teamed up with Future Learn, Britain’s finest online education provider, to bring to you a series of courses to suit your passion and skill levels.

Understand the science behind baking and learn the techniques for making pies, the perfect bakes for afternoon tea, showstopper cakes, including structural design, and how to read and amend a recipe.

Future Learn offers you a powerful new way to learn online.

Every course has been designed according to principles of effective learning, through storytelling and discussion, using community support to celebrate your progress. Join a wide community of like-minded learners and share your results. l Duration: 5 weeks for each course l Weekly study: 4-7 hours l 100% online l £36 per month.

Subscription automatically ends when a courses has finished.

7-day free trial period.

Subscribe to this series of four in-depth courses and build on your baking abilities. Find out more at futurelearn.com/partners/bbcgood-food or scan the QR code

82 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

Want to know which flour to use?

Need expert answers to your questions about sourdough?

Help is at hand.

Join us to learn everything you need to know about making the perfect sourdough loaf and its health benefits.

Visit bbcgoodfood.com/learn to find out more about our webinars or scan the QR code and book your ticket

easy health

5 healthy ways

chickpeas Filled with protein and fibre, they’re a great base for many quick and delicious dishes – try some of our favourite healthy ideas using this storecupboard hero Curried chickpea & mango salad SERVES 1 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V

Mix 1/2 x 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed, with 2 tbsp fat-free Greek yogurt, the juice of 1/2 lemon and 1 heaped tbsp korma paste, then toss with 1 /2 grated carrot, 70g shredded red cabbage, 50g shredded baby spinach and 40g finely diced mango. Tip into a bowl and scatter with 1/2 tsp nigella seeds and 1 /2 small red chilli, finely sliced.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 327 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 38g • sugars 18g • fibre 13g • protein 17g • salt 1g

Chickpea & red pepper dip SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V

Tip a 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed, into a food processor with 1 crushed garlic clove, 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, a squeeze of lemon juice, 2 roasted red peppers from a jar, drained and chopped, and a small handful of chopped coriander. Blitz to a paste and season. Serve with toasted pitta breads, or crudités.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 223 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 2g • carbs 12g • sugars none • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.9g

Chickpea Bombay mix

Spiced roast chickpeas

SERVES 1 PREP 2 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

Mix 60g spiced roast chickpeas (see recipe, right) with 1 tbsp unsalted peanuts. Bake at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 10 mins, then mix with 1 tsp raisins.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 142 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 12g • sugars 3g • fibre 4g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Drain 2 x 400g cans chickpeas and pat dry with a tea towel to remove as much moisture as possible. Tip into a roasting tin, toss with 1 1/2 tbsp rapeseed oil, 1 tsp each caraway and mustard seeds and seasoning. Roast for 20 mins until golden brown. Toss with 1 tbsp curry powder and serve, or use in our Bombay mix recipe (left).

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 200 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 19g • sugars 1g • fibre 7g • protein 9g • salt none

Smoky chickpeas on toast SERVES 2 PREP 2 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V ❄ chickpeas only

Fry 1 small chopped onion in 1 /2 tsp olive oil for 5-8 mins until soft. Add 2 tsp chipotle paste, 250ml passata, a 400g can chickpeas, drained, 2 tsp honey and 2 tsp red wine vinegar.

Season and bubble for 5 mins.

Toast 2-4 slices crusty bread.

Fry 2 eggs in a little oil. Drizzle the toast with a little oil, then top with the smoky chickpeas and eggs.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 423 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 3g • carbs 45g • sugars 15g • fibre 9g • protein 22g • salt 0.7g

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 83

Pork tacos with pineapple salsa

MAKES 8 1 PREP 20 mins 1 COOK 4 hrs 30 mins 1 EASY

4 dried ancho chillies 2 dried chipotle chillies 1 large white onion, roughly chopped 1 garlic bulb, cloves peeled 4 tomatoes, halved 1 tbsp olive oil 500ml chicken stock 1 tbsp sugar 2 oranges, juiced 1 tbsp oregano 1.7kg pork shoulder (approx.), skin removed For the pineapple salsa 250g pineapple, diced 2 jalapeño chillies, finely chopped and seeds removed 1 small red onion, finely sliced 1 lime, zested and juiced small bunch of coriander, leaves picked For the tacos 8 tacos or soft tortillas chunky tomato salsa, soured cream and guacamole, to serve

1 Heat the oven to CircoTherm® 180C.

That’s

a wrap

Specially designed to get you closer to your cooking, NEFF’s Slide&Hide® oven will make you fall in love with food all over again

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hen you choose NEFF’s Slide&Hide® oven, you’re investing in much more than just another kitchen appliance. Along with a space-saving door that innovatively slides and hides under the oven cavity, it’s loaded with lots of smart features that will help you master your culinary creations and embrace your passion for cooking like never before.

For wonderfully succulent meats and fish, you’ll find a trusted companion in

the oven’s CircoTherm® function, which delivers superior heat distribution to evenly cook your dishes. It means you can look forward to perfectly tender results every time – and that’s just the start of what this intuitive oven can do.

With a Slide&Hide® by your side, it really is like having an extra pair of hands in the kitchen! Why not give these delectable pork tacos a try and see for yourself? Made with tender, slowcooked pork and served with a zingy pineapple salsa, they’re sure to be a hit!

Boil a kettle and place the dried chillies in a bowl. Pour over the boiling water and leave to soak for 20 mins. Put the onion, garlic, tomatoes, oil and a pinch of salt in a large roasting tin and give everything a good mix. Roast in the oven for 20 mins, until the vegetables start to blister slightly, then remove and tip into a blender along with the soaked chillies, chicken stock, sugar, orange juice and oregano. Blitz until smooth.

2 Lay the pork in the roasting tin and pour over the chilli and vegetable mixture. Seal tightly with foil and place in the oven, turning CircoTherm® to 150C. Leave to cook for 3.5 hrs, checking and basting every hour or so. Once cooked, the meat should be soft enough to pull apart with two forks. Remove the foil and cook for a further 30 mins to brown the pork. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 20 mins before shredding.

3 While the pork rests, mix together the pineapple salsa ingredients with a pinch of salt. Serve your shredded pork on tacos or soft tortillas with the salsa on top. For extra deliciousness, serve with a chunky tomato salsa, soured cream and guacamole.

For more recipe inspiration, visit theingredient.neffhome.com/uk

WEEKEND

Enjoy sunny afternoons with Tom Kerridge’s barbecue recipes, or take the fun indoors with seasonal ideas from deputy food editor Esther Clark. Plus, new ways with scones

SEASONAL Cherry, custard & almond sponge cake, p96

FROZEN ASSETS Salami stromboli, p98

TWO WAYS Bakewell tart scones, p102

TOM KERRIDGE’S MAPLE & CHILLI-GLAZED LEG OF LAMB p90

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 85

TOM KERRIDGE

SIZZLING SUMMER ‘We’ve become a nation of barbecuers and outdoor cooking is the scent of summer. This year, forget burnt burgers and scorched sausages – if you’re going to the trouble of lighting a barbecue, do it some justice and make the most of the incredible flavour you can get by cooking over coals or embers. Here, I’ve come up with four options for the barbecue. They require a little extra effort than just throwing something on the grill, but they’re the recipes I cook at home over the summer in place of our usual Sunday roast. They also make a special Saturday night supper with friends.

And, though I’m happy to barbecue in any weather, I’ve also given indoor options for each so you can enjoy them come rain or shine.’

Tom

Spatchcock gochujang chicken This is best cooked on a kettle or other lidded barbecue over indirect heat, as the marinade can burn when cooked directly over hot coals. If you don’t have a kettle barbecue, you can always start the chicken in the oven and finish it over the coals for a bit of smoke.

If you want to keep the bird whole, this also works using the ‘beer can’ chicken method, but I like to do it with a can of ginger beer or fizzy lemon & lime drink instead.

SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus at least 1 hr marinating COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT

1.8kg whole chicken 200ml ginger beer (optional) 1 bunch of spring onions, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal small bunch of coriander, leaves picked sesame oil, for drizzling For the marinade 3 tbsp gochujang paste 3 garlic cloves, finely grated 2cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp rice or white wine vinegar 1 tsp fish sauce 1 tsp golden caster sugar

Whether you need ideas for seafood, red meat, chicken or veg, BBC chef Tom Kerridge has all barbecue bases covered photographs JONATHON GREGSON

1 Put the chicken on a board breast-side down with the legs facing you. Using kitchen scissors or poultry shears, cut along either side of the backbone and remove it (freeze it to use for stock). Open the chicken out, turn it over and push down the breastbone to flatten. Cut a few slashes in the legs and thighs.

2 Whisk the marinade ingredients together. Reserve 2 tbsp and rub the rest all over the chicken, working it under the skin. Cover and chill for at least 1 hr or overnight.

3 Light the barbecue, stacking the coals on one side. When the flames have died down and the coals are ashen, lay a flameproof foil tray or old roasting tin over the empty side and pour in the ginger beer or 100ml water. Set the grill on top. Place the chicken skin-side up on the grill, cover with the lid and cook for 45 mins. Baste with the reserved marinade, then re-cover and cook for 5 mins more. Move the chicken to the hotter side of the barbecue for 5 mins to char the skin a little, being careful not to burn it. The chicken is ready when the legs pull away easily and a digital probe thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh and breast reads 70C. Lift onto a board, rest for 10 mins then scatter over the spring onions and coriander. Drizzle with sesame oil.

PER SERVING 511 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 8g • carbs 8g • sugars 4g • fibre 1g • protein 58g • salt 1.7g

Tom Kerridge is a BBC presenter and chef-owner of The Hand and Flowers, The Coach and The Butcher’s Tap in Marlow, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at The Corinthia Hotel, London, as well as The Bull & Bear in Manchester. His latest cookbook, Tom Kerridge’s Outdoor Cooking (£22, Bloomsbury Absolute), is out now. For details of our exciting all-new Tom Kerridge podcast with Marverine Cole keep an eye on our social media chnnels this summer. Listen at bbcgoodfood.com/podcast or download at Acast, Spotify, iTunes or other podcast streaming services. @ChefTomKerridge

86 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

tip RAIN OR SHINE To cook indoors, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and roast the chicken for 35-40 mins on a baking tray, then put under a hot grill for 5-10 mins to char the skin.

To watch a video on spatchcocking chicken, visit bbcgoodfood. com

weekend

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 87

Paper bag prawns with sherry, chilli & garlic We all like the idea of ‘prawns on the barbie’, but unless you’re cooking lobster-sized prawns, barbecuing them straight on the grill is a pain. Here, I’ve made things a lot easier and locked in all the flavour by cooking the prawns in a parcel. This means they all cook at once and it works with whatever size prawns you have. I’ve kept the recipe pescatarian, but for a surf-andturf vibe, you could add some sliced chorizo to the parcels.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins MORE EFFORT

100g butter 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 red chilli, sliced

88 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

1 tsp sweet smoked paprika 80ml dry sherry 600g extra-large raw tiger prawns, peeled and deveined 1 lemon, halved 1 handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped crusty bread, to serve

1 Light the barbecue. Meanwhile, put the butter, olive oil, garlic, chilli, paprika and sherry in a small pan set over a high heat. Season well and bubble for 2 mins.

2 Put a square 45cm sheet of foil shiny-side down on a work surface.

Lay an equal-sized sheet of baking parchment on top, then fold the foil and parchment in half together, with the foil on the outer side. Seal at the shorter sides by folding the edges over a few times and pressing them firmly. Spoon the prawns into the parcel through the open top and

pour in the melted butter mixture.

Fold the parcel edges together along the open top to seal it fully.

3 When the coals of the barbecue are ashen, place the parcel directly on the grill and cook for 15 mins, carefully turning it once or twice.

The prawns will be nearly ready when the parcel begins to puff up with steam. Remove the parcel from the barbecue, open it up carefully and tip the prawns and buttery juices into a serving bowl. Squeeze over one of the lemon halves and sprinkle with the parsley. Cut the remaining lemon half into wedges.

Serve the prawns with the lemon wedges for squeezing over and crusty bread on the side for mopping up the juices.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 420 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 15g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 24g • salt 1.2g

tip RAIN OR SHINE To cook the prawns indoors, heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the parcel on a baking tray. Bake for 15-20 mins, turning once.

weekend

Miso mushroom & halloumi burgers, p90

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 89

When I want to lift the flavour of vegetables like mushrooms, aubergines or onions, I reach for miso. It’s packed with savoury umami and, when mixed with butter, makes vegetables feel more substantial and rich. It’s not an exclusively vegetarian flavour booster either – use this miso butter on steaks and chops, too.

SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

4 large portobello mushrooms, stalks removed 1 large red onion, cut into 4 thick slices 250g block halloumi, cut into 8 thick slices 4 burger buns, split 2 tomatoes, sliced 4 handfuls of rocket or other peppery leaves burger sauce of your choice, to serve

Maple & chilli-glazed leg of lamb A sticky glaze like this is a great way to add flavour to barbecued meat when you haven’t got time to marinate it. The glaze also works well on beef and venison. The timings in this recipe should produce medium rare lamb, but if you want it less done, take off 5 mins of cooking time. Or, if you prefer it well done, add another 10 mins before glazing.

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT

2.5kg leg of lamb, butterflied (ask your butcher to do this or learn how at bbcgoodfood.com) 1 bunch of rosemary, snipped into 2cm lengths For the glaze 100ml maple syrup 50g Dijon mustard 2 tbsp yeast extract 1 tbsp smoked paprika 3 medium green chillies, sliced

For the miso butter 100g softened butter 2 tbsp white miso 2 tbsp light soy sauce 1 large garlic clove, grated

1 For the miso butter, beat all the ingredients together in a small bowl, then set aside.

2 Light the barbecue. When the coals are ashen, tip more coals into one side so you have two heat zones.

Brush the mushrooms and onion with some of the miso butter, then put on the grill and cook for 10 mins, basting and turning occasionally.

(When you turn the onions, use a spatula so they don’t separate into rings.) When the veg is charred and has softened, move it to the edge of the cooler side of the barbecue to keep warm. Continue to baste with the butter occasionally.

3 Cook the halloumi directly on the grill until browned and lightly charred. When the halloumi is done, brush the cut sides of the buns with the remaining miso butter and toast

1 Lay the butterflied lamb leg on a board and use a sharp knife to prick about 20 holes all over the skin side.

Press the rosemary sprigs deep into the holes, then season all over.

2 To make the glaze, tip all of the ingredients into a small saucepan, reserving a few sliced chillies, and bring to the boil. Stir to combine, then remove from the heat and set aside. Light the barbecue. It’s ready when the coals are ashen and you can hold your hand 5cm above the grill for at least 5 seconds.

3 Lay the lamb skin-side down on the grill and cook for 10 mins.

Turn over using tongs and cook for 10 mins more. Repeat this two more times for 5 mins on each side so the lamb cooks for a total of 30 mins.

Baste with the glaze, turn the lamb again and keep basting for another 10 mins until deep brown and sticky.

Remove to a board, cover loosely and leave to rest for 20 mins. Carve into thin slices to serve, then scatter over the reserved sliced chillies.

GOOD TO KNOW folate • iron PER SERVING 582 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 14g • carbs 13g • sugars 11g • fibre 2g • protein 62g • salt 1.4g

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on the grill. Fill the buns with the mushrooms, onions, halloumi, tomatoes, rocket and burger sauce.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 452 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 16g • carbs 31g • sugars 11g • fibre 5g • protein 22g • salt 3.9g

tip RAIN OR SHINE To recreate this recipe indoors, heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7 and roast the butter-basted mushrooms for 15-20 mins until softened.

Meanwhile, griddle the onion and halloumi slices for 10 mins, then toast the buns on the griddle in the buttery juices.

tip RAIN OR SHINE To cook this indoors, heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Put the lamb on a baking tray and roast for 30 mins, then reduce the oven temperature to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and baste with the glaze.

Roast for another 15 mins, basting every 5 mins, or until done to your liking.

& TOM KERRIDGE: A LIFE THROUGH FOOD Shelia Dillon caught up with Tom in June to talk about his career in hospitality, his campaign to save British pubs and his work with footballer Marcus Rashford to end child food poverty. Search BBC Sounds for ‘The Food Programme, Tom Kerridge’

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist JO HARRIS

Miso mushroom & halloumi burgers

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SEASONAL

SUMMER’S FINEST

Showcase July produce in recipes from deputy food editor Esther Clark and grow broad beans using tips from Emma Crawforth of BBC Gardeners’ World photographs YUKI SUGIURA

D

uring the warmer months, I like to spend less time at the hob – I prefer creating simple dishes that give fresh produce a chance to shine. These recipes are easy to make, but will still impress, whether you’re planning a relaxed garden lunch or just want an afternoon treat.

For me, the nutty, earthy sweetness of broad beans is best complemented with creamy goat’s cheese, lemon and olive oil (p94). Using the same dressing, they can also be served on toast and topped with a poached egg and chilli, or ricotta and herbs. Peel the tough skin off the beans, though, as its bitter tang can spoil the otherwise delicate flavour.

Tomatoes are also exciting at this time of the year – an abundance of varieties bursting with colour and texture. You can find colourful heritage varieties at The Tomato Stall (thetomatostall.co.uk) or Natoora (natoora.co.uk), or grow your own in a veg patch, or even on a balcony. Simply dressed with olive oil and capers, and served with crusty bread, they can take centre stage. Roasted with sea salt and eaten with cold yogurt and tahini (p94), they’re my go-to summer comfort food.

Cherries are a real treat when in season, and can be eaten in savoury dishes as well as sweet. Add them to salads with soft cheese and prosciutto, or sandwich softened cherries in a Victoria-style sponge (p 96).

If you can get them, golden-yolked organic eggs are best for making a rich cake that you can serve with custardy cream for a post-barbecue dessert. Or for a lighter, simpler option, just serve the syrupy cherries with whipped cream and shop-bought shortbread.

Before becoming deputy food editor, Esther trained at Leiths School of Food & Wine, then worked as a chef in Italy. She loves to cook for friends at home, and particularly enjoys creating recipes using new ingredients and seasonal produce. @esthermclark

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Lemony broad beans with goat’s cheese, peas & mint, p94

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Lemony broad beans with goat’s cheese, peas & mint Use goat’s cheese with a rind for this recipe to ensure it will slice well and have a lovely firm but creamy texture. A robust bread like focaccia is best for mopping up any juices.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

40g blanched hazelnuts 250g broad beans, podded and skins removed from the beans 200g fresh peas 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus a drizzle to serve 2 banana shallots, peeled and thinly sliced ½ small bunch of mint, finely chopped, plus extra leaves to serve ½ small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 lemon, zested and juiced 150g log goat’s cheese with rind, sliced into 5mm rounds crusty bread, to serve

Roasted tomatoes & creamy tahini yogurt The wise and ever-inspiring Yotam Ottolenghi introduced me to the moreish combination of hot tomatoes and cold yogurt. I stir tahini through the yogurt to make it rich and nutty. Make sure you use a thick, full-fat Greek yogurt, though – the looser natural type doesn’t work.

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

600g mixed heritage or heirloom tomatoes 5 small garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 thyme or oregano sprigs 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus an extra drizzle to serve 400g thick Greek yogurt 3 tbsp tahini pinch of chilli flakes, such as Aleppo (optional) flatbreads or focaccia, to serve

& For veg-growing tips follow Sue Kent as she transforms her allotment on Gardeners’ World, Friday evenings on BBC Two, or catch up on iPlayer.

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1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.

Tip the hazelnuts onto a baking tray and roast for 12-15 mins until golden. Leave to cool. Cook the broad beans and peas in a pan of boiling water for 2 mins, then drain.

2 Heat half the oil in a small frying pan over a low-medium heat and fry the shallots with a pinch of salt for 12 mins until softened. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.

3 Roughly chop the cooled hazelnuts, then toss with the broad beans and peas.

Add the mint, parsley, remaining olive oil, the lemon zest and juice and the cooled shallots. Season with black pepper and 1 /2 tsp sea salt flakes.

4 Spread the mixture over a large serving plate and top with the sliced goat’s cheese.

Drizzle with a little extra olive oil and scatter with torn mint leaves, then serve with chunks of crusty bread.

GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 380 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 9g • carbs 10g • sugars 3g • fibre 9g • protein 17g • salt 1.2g

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4.

Put the tomatoes on a baking tray lined with baking parchment, then scatter over the garlic and thyme, reserving a few thyme leaves. Drizzle with the oil and season with a little salt. Roast for 25-30 mins until the tomatoes have softened but are still holding their shape.

2 Meanwhile, combine the yogurt with the tahini and 1/2 tsp sea salt flakes. Chill until needed.

3 Spread the cold yogurt mixture over a large serving plate. Spoon over the tomatoes, along with the garlic and thyme and pour over the roasting juices.

Sprinkle with a pinch of chilli flakes, if you like, and the reserved thyme, then serve with flatbreads or foccacia for scooping everything up.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 336 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 9g • carbs 10g •

VEG Q&A Emma Crawforth is a qualified horticulturist, trained at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, and is the gardening editor for BBC Gardeners’ World. This month, she advises on broad beans.

BROAD BEANS How do you know when broad beans are ready?

You can eat the whole pods when they’re small, but wait for the beans to develop for better value. The lowest pods will mature first – look for bumps in the pods, then pick and shell one to test its readiness.

Never let them get large, as they become tough. It’s better to harvest and freeze them if you have a lot.

What time of year are they grown?

Broad beans are hardy, so you can sow seeds in autumn and let the seedlings overwinter on your plot without protection (if you live in a mild area) for an early crop.

Otherwise, sow in late winter in a greenhouse, or outside once the soil reaches 5C. Then, successionally sow small batches until June for harvests into midsummer.

What’s the difference between varieties of broad beans?

You can sow the hardiest varieties for overwintering, like ‘Aquadulce Claudia’. Choose the shortest plants, like ‘The Sutton’, for late-spring sowing or containers, and pink-beaned ones, like ‘Karmazyn’, for fancier salads.

Generally, longer-podded beans are hardier, and shorter-podded beans less so – but they are tastier.

sugars 9g • fibre 3g • protein 10g • salt 0.8g

Gardeners’ Question Time at 3pm on Fridays on BBC Radio 4 and BBC Sounds is always a rich source of gardening advice, email the panel with your questions at gqt@bbc.co.uk.

How easy is it to grow your own?

It’s very easy! These are tough plants, providing one of the earliest vegetable harvests of the year. They prefer fertile, free-draining soil, and, for best results, water them while they’re in flower during dry spells.

Tall plants need simple stakes. Black aphid attacks are very common, but this doesn’t usually affect the beans inside their pods.

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weekend Cherry, custard & almond sponge cake This is a take on a classic Victoria sponge, but a little more grown-up.

We achieved our yellow sponges by using golden-yolked organic eggs.

SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 35 mins EASY V

1 Butter two 20cm loose-bottomed round sandwich tins and line with baking parchment. Tip the butter and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer and beat for 10 mins, or until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Fold in the flour, ground almonds, baking powder, 1/4 tsp salt and the milk. Spoon the batter into the prepared tins and bake in the centre of the oven for 22-25 mins, or until risen and firm to the touch.

Leave to cool in the tins for 5 mins before turning out onto a wire rack to cool completely.

2 Put the cherries, vanilla, sugar, lemon juice and kirsch or liqueur (if using) in a pan and bring to a simmer over a low heat. Cook for

5 mins, turn up the heat to medium and cook for 5-7 mins more until the liquid becomes syrupy. If the cherries are softened but the liquid isn’t yet syrupy, strain the liquid into a separate pan and simmer until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.

3 Beat the cream and icing sugar together using an electric whisk until the cream has thickened, then fold in the custard and chill for 1 hr.

4 Put one of the sponges on a cake plate or stand and spread over the custard cream. Spoon over the cherries, then top with the second sponge. Dust with more icing sugar and serve immediately. Leftovers will keep chilled for two days and are best served at room temperature.

PER SERVING 625 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 22g • carbs 57g • sugars 40g • fibre 1g • protein 9g • salt 0.5g

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

220g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tins 220g golden caster sugar 4 eggs (preferably organic) 170g self-raising flour 50g ground almonds ¼ tsp baking powder 3 tbsp milk For the macerated cherries 250g cherries, pitted 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 2 tbsp golden caster sugar ½ large lemon, juiced 3 tsp kirsch or maraschino liqueur (optional) For the custard cream 150g double cream

1 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 80g fresh shop-bought custard

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Barbecue sea bream with asparagus, herb hollandaise & lardo di colonnata SERVES 3 1 PREP 5 mins 1 COOK 25 mins 1 EASY

3 egg yolks 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 200g unsalted butter small bunch each of chives and chervil, chopped small bunch each of flat-leaf parsley, tarragon and basil, leaves picked 100ml olive oil, plus extra to serve 400-500g sea bream, gutted and cleaned 4 large asparagus spears, cut into 1cm pieces 4 lardo di colonnata slices 1 lemon, juiced

1 Bring a medium pan of water to a

The perfect pairing With a chilled bottle of Birrificio Angelo Poretti, you can elevate your dishes this summer and beyond

W

hoever thought food and drinks pairings were limited to wine, clearly hadn’t experienced the refreshing taste of Birrificio Angelo Poretti. Meticulously crafted to complement the flavours in your dishes, this delightful pairing beer really is food’s best friend.

For more than a century, Birrificio Angelo Poretti has been producing its crisp, fresh lager-style beer using only the finest ingredients from around the world at its brewery at the foot of the Italian Campo dei Fiori mountains. And thanks to the pristine alpine water used in the

brewing process, the beer has a beautiful clarity and palate-cleansing quality that will enhance all of your culinary creations.

Birrificio Angelo Poretti has now teamed up with Ben Marks, chef and owner of Perilla in north London. He’s passionate about serving the beer with his dishes and has specially created a recipe pairing you’re going to love.

The dominant Columbus hop in the beer imparts pepper, liquorice and aniseed flavours that bring alive the chives and chervil in the hollandaise, while the beer’s lively sparkle cuts through the rich sauce, helping the fish to shine.

Birrificio Angelo Poretti is available in selected Tesco and M&S Food stores

Enjoy responsibly

simmer over a high heat. Place a metal bowl over the top, ensuring the base doesn’t touch the water. Tip in the egg yolks, with a splash of water and the white wine vinegar. Whisk continuously, ensuring the yolks don’t scramble (keep the water at a gentle simmer and remove the bowl from the pan if it gets too hot).

When the mixture is light in colour and has thickened, remove from the heat.

2 Melt the butter in a small pan. Slowly pour the butter into the eggs, whisking continuously until you have a thick, glossy hollandaise. Season with sea salt and fold in the chives and chervil. Cover and set aside until needed.

3 Bring a pan of water to the boil. Add the parsley, tarragon and basil for 30 secs, then remove and place directly into a bowl of iced water. Once cold, squeeze out any excess water and roughly chop. Blitz in a blender, then slowly add the olive oil and half the lemon juice, blending until smooth.

Season with salt, then pour into a bowl.

4 Light a barbecue. Season the fish inside and out with salt. Barbecue over a medium heat, turning regularly for 6-7 mins. Cook until lightly charred on both sides. If you haven’t got a fish cage, lay two sheets of foil onto the grill of the barbecue and use a spatula to carefully turn the fish.

5 Cook the asparagus in a pan of salted boiling water for 1 min, then drain and dress in a little olive oil. Lay the lardo slices over the fish, then spoon a little of the herb oil over and scatter over the asparagus. Squeeze over the remaining lemon juice and garnish with a few extra herbs. Serve with the hollandaise sauce on the side.

FROZEN ASSETS

GIANT STUFFED CRUST

Similiar to a calzone, this Italian stuffed loaf oozing with cheese is easily adaptable, plus it can be made ahead and frozen for when you have less time to cook recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph JAMES LEE

Shoot director CLOE ROSE-MANN | Food stylist TAMARA VOS | Stylist LUIS PERAL

Salami stromboli Stromboli is like a pizza, calzone and focaccia all rolled into one, but I’ve sold it to my family of pizza lovers by billing it as the ultimate cheese-stuffed crust.

Just like a normal pizza, you can swap the filling or topping to suit your taste but to make sure the dough cooks all the way through, avoid wet ingredients.

If you want tomatoes involved, spread a thin layer of sundried tomato purée over the dough before adding the salami.

SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus 1 hr proving COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT ❄

For the dough 400g strong white flour, plus extra for dusting 5g fast-action dried yeast 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing For the filling 20 slices Milano salami (about 100g) 150g grated mozzarella handful of basil leaves

1 Tip the flour into a large bowl, then stir in the yeast and 1 tsp salt.

Pour in 250ml warm water and the olive oil, and bring together with a 98 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

wooden spoon to make a soft dough.

Tip onto a surface and knead for 10 mins until smooth. Put the dough back in the bowl, cover with a tea towel and set aside for 40 mins or until doubled in size.

2 Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface to a rectangle roughly 35 x 20cm. Layer over the salami (leaving a bit of a border), then scatter over the mozzarella and finally the basil leaves. Tuck the shorter edges in and roll the whole thing up like a swiss roll.

Will keep frozen, tightly wrapped in foil, for up to one month. Can either be defrosted and baked, or baked from frozen (see step 3).

3 Leave the loaf to rest for 20 mins on a baking tray. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C/180C/gas 6. Brush all over with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Bake for 40 mins until puffed up and golden. If cooking from frozen, bake for 1 hr. Leave to cool for 10 mins before slicing and serving with salad.

GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 570 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 8g • carbs 76g • sugars 1g • fibre 3g • protein 23g • salt 2.4g

Discover more ways to make the most of your freezer at: bbcgoodfood. com/howto/ guide/top-tipsfreezing-food

If you’re a sourdough baker, the dough can be made with 100g of active starter rather than the yeast, but it will take 2-3 hrs to double in size.

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ANTIPASTI STROMBOLI Make a veggie-friendly antipasti stromboli by leaving out the salami and adding stoned olives, sliced artichoke hearts or grilled aubergine slices, drizzled pesto and finely sliced red onions to the filling in step 2.

GORGONZOLA & ONION For another veggie alternative, simply scatter 100g crumbled vegetarian gorgonzola, 2 finely sliced red onions and some fresh thyme leaves over the dough before rolling up in step 2.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 99

T W O WAY S

SCONES Two members of the Good Food cookery team reinvent this staple of afternoon tea

recipes LIBERTY MENDEZ and ESTHER CLARK photographs JONATHAN GREGSON

Inspired by New York lox bagels, this scone has a seeded topping for crunch, while onion-and-chive soft cheese complements the smoked salmon.

esther

‘I love scones in all forms, but if I had to choose, I’d opt for a savoury one. I like to make a basic scone dough, then mix and match the toppings and flavourings. This one is inspired by lox bagels – smoked salmon, a seeded topping and spring onion soft cheese.

The key to a good scone is not overworking the mixture – you’ll need a light touch to achieve the ideal, airy texture.’

Esther Clark, deputy food editor 100 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

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liberty

‘I’ve combined two of Britain’s best-loved sweet treats: a classic scone and a bakewell tart. I’ve used all the tips and tricks I learned at catering college to elevate these teatime favourites to something really special. They have subtle almond flavour, the crunch of flaked almonds and lashings of raspberry jam and clotted cream.’

Liberty Mendez, recipe developer

If you can’t decide between a bakewell tart or a scone, combine the two! A combination of almond extract and flaked almonds give these scones that characteristic flavour.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 101

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MAKES 6 PREP 20 mins plus at least 30 mins chilling COOK 15 mins EASY V ❄

350g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp baking powder 3 tbsp caster sugar 95g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 150ml whole milk 2 tsp almond extract 1 egg, beaten 2 tbsp flaked almonds raspberry jam and clotted cream, to serve (optional) For the topping 50g icing sugar 6 glacé or maraschino cherries

Seedy scones with smoked salmon MAKES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 20 mins EASY ❄

225g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting ½ tsp baking powder 140g cold butter, chopped 150ml cold milk 2 tsp sesame seeds 2 tsp poppy seeds 1 egg, beaten 150g soft cheese 1 spring onion, finely sliced 1 tbsp chopped chives 100g smoked salmon capers and dill fronds, to serve (optional)

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1 Mix the flour, 1/4 tsp salt, the baking powder and sugar together in a bowl. Rub the butter in using your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Or, gradually pulse the ingredients together in a food processor.

2 Gradually stir the milk and almond extract into the flour mixture using your hands until you have a smooth dough. Lightly dust the work surface with flour and gently roll the dough out to a 2cm thickness. Transfer to a baking tray lined with baking parchment and chill for 30 mins to firm up, or up to 1 hr if you want to get ahead.

3 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7 and remove the dough from the fridge. Stamp out three or four scones using a 7cm round cutter.

Place, upside-down, on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment,

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 8 and line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Tip the flour, 1 /2 tsp salt and baking powder into a bowl and stir to combine. Rub the butter in using your fingertips for around 5 mins until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Quickly stir in the milk using a cutlery knife.

Bring the mixture together with your hands, then knead briefly on a lightly floured surface and form into a ball (be careful not to overwork the dough). Flatten the dough into a 16cm circle, then cut into eight triangles. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet.

2 Mix the sesame seeds, poppy seeds and a grind of black pepper together in a small bowl. Brush the

leaving a 2cm gap between each.

Roll the remaining dough out again and stamp out as many scones as you can (you should get about six in total). Brush the scones with the beaten egg, making sure it doesn’t drip down the sides as this will cause the scones to rise unevenly.

Sprinkle over the flaked almonds.

Bake for 15-20 mins until golden brown. Leave to cool completely.

Will keep frozen in an airtight container for up to three months.

4 For the topping, mix the icing sugar with 1-2 tbsp water. Drizzle over the scones and top each one with a cherry. These are delicious to eat as they are, or serve with jam and clotted cream, if you like.

PER SCONE 482 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 10g • carbs 68g • sugars 20g • fibre 2g • protein 9g • salt 1g

scones with the beaten egg, then sprinkle with the seed mixture and a pinch of sea salt flakes. Bake for 18-20 mins until cooked through.

Leave to cool on a wire rack until just warm. To freeze, leave to cool completely, then pack into food bags and freeze for up to three months.

3 Combine the soft cheese with the spring onions and chives. Serve the scones slightly warm with the soft cheese mixture and smoked salmon, with some capers and dill fronds scattered over, if you like.

PER SCONE 444 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 18g • carbs 31g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 11g • salt 2g

& Turn to page 109 for our top tips on how to bake the fluffiest scones.

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist AGATHÉ GITS

Bakewell tart scones

HOLIDAY AT HOME Bring the sunshine to your table with favourites from overseas

• Calamari & aïoli • Barbecue chicken gyros with cheat’s Greek chips • Burnt Basque cheesecake

PLUS >>20-MINUTE MIDWEEKMEALS >>TOPIDEASFOR FAMILYDAYSOUT >>CREATEPERFECT SCOTCH EGGS

Don’t forget

You can download every issue on your iPad and mobile

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don’t miss next month

Chardonnay

Each month Henry Jeffreys showcases a different grape variety, plus get a great deal on a case of summery whites created exclusively for the BBC Good Food Wine Club Chardonnay is probably the best known as well as the most widespread of all grapes varieties. Originally French, it’s now grown all over the world from New Zealand to England, and makes wines that can be opulent, oaky and buttery, or lean and piercing with everything in-between.

If your last experience of this variety was something sweet and oak-chipped from the 1990s, then think again, as there’s a Chardonnay out there for everyone.

Wine Club Star

Need to know

Cleanskin Limestone Coast In recent years, Chardonnay fashion, especially in Australia, has swung away from the richer, oaky, tropical fruit styles to something leaner and fresher like this Cleanskin Chardonnay. Drink it with roast chicken, salads, and seafood.

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, selects all of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food readers. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com.

He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now.

Chardonnay takes its name from a village in the Burgundy region of France. French Chardonnay often won’t say ‘Chardonnay’ on the bottle because the specific place in Burgundy where it’s from is considered more important.

In the new world (South Africa, New Zealand, Australia etc) the bottle will say Chardonnay.

Chardonnay is one of the three principal grapes of Champagne, along with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If a bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine says ‘Blanc de Blancs’, it means it’s all Chardonnay.

Tasting notes Fruit flavours to look for include citrus, peach and melon, moving to pineapple in warmer climates.

Chardonnay has a particular affinity with oak – flavours of vanilla, cloves, coffee, coconut and hazelnuts are signs of oak influence. If you like oak, look for Californian wines or pricier Burgundies like Pouilly-Fuissé.

If you prefer a more mineral style, seek out Chablis wines.

Awineforeverydish Ever wondered which white wine to match with your pasta? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for other wines and impress your friends. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wine-club.

104 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

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JUST

£6.99 A BOTTLE SAVE OVER 40%

Buy this case for £41.94, plus FREE DELIVERY (usually £7.99)

Mixed or all-red cases available for the same price

What’s in the box Under the Lemon Tree Chenin Blanc A brand-new release from the winery responsible for our bestselling The Gooseberry Bush. As its name suggests, it’s deliciously lemony.

Cleanskin Limestone Coast Chardonnay Our Cleanskins are a great selection of wines of premium provenance, we just can’t tell you exactly who made them. The payback is great wine at

a low price. It’s our Wine Club Star this month (see left for tasting notes).

Finca Montalvillo Blanco Rioja An exciting new Rioja.

High-up vineyards ensure appealing lemony zip and blossom notes.

Very appetising.

Von Reben Riesling A superb modern Riesling that’s dry and elegant with pronounced apple and citrus fruit.

Villa Broglia Gavi di Gavi An award-winner from an exceptional family estate with vines in the superior Gavi di Gavi. Savour its creamy pear fruit notes, balanced by fresh lemon.

Yourdeal ataglance  Pay just £41.94 for six summer whites (usually £74.44)  Save over 40%  £6.99 a bottle

Törley Estate Cuvée Laczkó Sauvignon Blanc

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Wonderfully aromatic, full of all the quintessential flavours of fruity Sauvignon Blanc and from one of Hungary’s top producers.

 Also available as an all-red or mixed case for the same price

To order your case online, go to bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/julywhites Or, call 03300 242 855 and quote code 3353001 BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaites. Offer valid for new customers only and limited to one six-bottle case per household. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion. Offer ends 31/8/2021. You or anybody you buy wine or other alcoholic products for must be 18 years or over. All goods are subject to availability and all orders are subject to acceptance by us. In the unlikely event of a wine becoming unavailable, a substitute of similar style and of equal or greater value will be supplied. Standard delivery takes three working days (delivery to offshore islands, NI, Scottish Highlands and some other areas of Scotland may take a few days longer). Please see laithwaites.co.uk/terms for full terms and conditions, and laithwaites.co.uk/privacy for our Privacy Policy and Cookie Policy. We process information about you in accordance with our privacy policy.Laithwaite’s Wine part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire, RG7 4SW.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 105

reader

offer

Build-your-own BBQ box

Save 10% with this special offer for BBC Good Food readers

JUST

£62.10 (was £69) plus delivery*

Hook‘N’Block aims to always deliver quality, value-for-money meat to your dinner table at a great price.

A family-run business for more than 50 years, its suppliers are selected using rigorous principles and, where possible, local produce is sourced. All meat is labelled with full traceability. Hook‘N’Block offers a complete-satisfaction, no-quibble guarantee on all its products.

This box will provide all you need for a barbecue. Choose plain or pre-marinated meats, including Cajun, garlic, hot ‘n’ spicy, Jamaican Jerk, piri-piri, smoky BBQ, Chinese, tandoori, tikka or southern-fried.

Hook’N’Block are giving BBC Good Food readers an extra 10% off the usual price – order now for just £62.10 plus delivery.

£80

WHAT’S INCLUDED: if bought l Pork belly ribs with your individually choice of marinade l Fresh chicken thighs with your choice of marinade l Fresh chicken drumsticks with your choice of marinade l 4oz beef burgers, 12 or 24 l A selection of fresh pork or pork & leek sausages l Optional New Zealand lamb chump chops with your choice of plain or minted marinade l Optional choice of British rump steaks

SUBSCRIBER

CLUB

Bonus for BBC Good Food subscribers BBC Good Food subscribers save 15%. Order for just £58.65 – see page 54 for details.

TO ORDER visit hooknblock.co.uk/BYOBBQ

quoting the code HNBGFBYO21

Terms and conditions *Standard delivery is £6.95 (free on orders over £75), £10 surcharge for remote postcodes. Multiple orders allowed. Offer closes 15 August 2021. If in the unlikely event you are not satisfied with a product we will happily offer a no quibble refund, credit or alternative. Your contract for supply is with Hook’N’Block, Deacon Way, Reading, Berkshire, RG30 6AZ, telephone 0118 914 4594.

106 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

B O O ST YO U R

cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team THIS MONTH

Watch our skills videos at bbcgoodfood.com/video We love to see what you’re making, too: share your recipes on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood

Five steps to perfect scones, p109

Make Glamorgan sausages, p110

The truth about pan-frying meat, p111

L E V E L T NEX E C I E T A C H O C O LMake our velvety smooth page 112 n o e ip c e r , n r u h -c o n M A E CR

Enjoy a rosita cocktail, p119

& Choose the best ribs for your next BBQ, p117

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 107

PODCAST EXTRA

The founder of Spice Monkey cookery school in London shares his recipe for one of the nation’s favourites

I’ve put my own spin on this, using ingredients like mint, mango powder for tangy flavour and black salt, which has a sulphury taste – here, it brings that charred tandoori-type flavour.

Classic butter chicken SERVES 4-6 PREP 45 mins plus 3 hrs chilling COOK 50 mins MORE EFFORT

3 tbsp lemon juice 2-3 tbsp kashmiri chilli powder or paprika, plus a little extra for the sauce (optional) 4 skinless chicken breasts or 8 thigh fillets, cut into 5cm cubes 3 tbsp melted butter or ghee For the marinade 200ml natural yogurt 1 tbsp crushed garlic 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 2 tbsp ground coriander 2 tbsp ground cumin 2 tsp amchoor powder (dried mango powder) 1 tbsp dried fenugreek leaves, crushed 1 tbsp dried mint leaves

108 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

& Tune into the Rookie & Nice Podcast where you can hear Nikita talking to Miriam and Nadiya about how to make this takeaway favourite – available to download from Acast, Spotify, iTunes and podcast streaming services.

½ tsp black salt (optional) ½ tsp salt (use 1 tsp if you don’t have black salt) For the sauce 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp cumin seeds 4-8 hot green chillies, sliced 90g butter or ghee 2 medium onions, finely chopped 4 green cardamom pods, cracked ½ tbsp crushed garlic ½ tbsp grated ginger 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp dried fenugreek leaves, crushed 500ml passata mixed with 150ml water 2 tsp garam masala 50-100ml single cream large pinch of coriander leaves, to garnish

1 Toss the lemon juice, chilli powder and a pinch of salt with the chicken.

Cover and chill for 1 hr. Combine the marinade ingredients, taste for seasoning, then mix in the chicken.

Cover and chill for another 2 hrs.

2 Thread the chicken onto metal skewers, reserving the leftover marinade. Grill on a hot barbecue

for 5 mins, turning and basting with the melted butter or ghee. Or, cook under a hot grill for 8-10 mins, turning occasionally. Don’t worry if the chicken isn’t cooked, as it will finish in the sauce. Remove to a board.

3 To make the sauce, heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a wok or large frying pan and drop in a few cumin seeds.

When they sizzle, tip in the rest. Swirl the pan, reduce the heat and add the chillies. Stir until the chillies have blistered, then add the butter or ghee.

Turn the heat to high and continue to cook until all the butter or ghee has melted. Tip in the onions and fry for 10 mins until light brown and soft.

If you prefer a smooth sauce, tip into a blender and blitz until smooth. Or, scrape into a bowl and set aside.

4 Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper and heat the remaining oil.

Drop in the cardamom pods. When they’ve swelled and lightened in colour, reduce the heat, add the garlic and ginger and fry for 30 seconds, stirring until you can no longer smell raw garlic. Return the onion mixture to the pan. Mix well. Add the turmeric and half the fenugreek leaves. Season with salt. (Taste for seasoning – you can add chilli powder, if you like.)

Pour in the diluted passata, stir and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, covered, for 20 mins until oil rises to the surface.

5 Remove the chicken from the skewers and chop into bite-sized pieces. Add to the sauce along with any resting juices. Tip 125ml warm water into the bowl with the reserved marinade, swirl, then stir into the sauce. Bring the sauce to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, add the garam masala and cook for 3-4 mins until the chicken is cooked. If you like, add a splash of boiling water to loosen.

Pour in 50ml cream and mix well.

6 Tip into a serving bowl, drizzle with another 50ml cream, if you like, then scatter over the reserved fenugreek leaves and coriander.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 522 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 17g • carbs 13g • sugars 10g • fibre 5g • protein 32g • salt 1.4g

Photographs AMY NEUNSINGER/PHOTODISC/GETTY IMAGES

Nikita Gulhane

skills beginners

STEPS TO SUCCESS

SCONES

Master this afternoon-tea classic with our top tips

 Heat the oven properly Ensuring that your oven is hot enough is important, as the initial blast of heat will help the scones rise. It should be heated to 220C/ 200C fan/gas 7, and you can use an oven thermometer to double-check that it’s the right temperature.  Keep the dough cool The scone dough should be kept as cold as possible while you’re preparing it. This helps the scones hold their shape when baking and remain neat as you cut them out.  Cutting out The trick to achieving levelly-risen scones is being careful not to twist the cutter while stamping out the

W H AT I S . . .

MIREPOIX? Mirepoix is the term for a specific mixture of vegetables that are cooked together and used as the flavour base for many different dishes, such as soups, stocks and sauces. It’s a mixture of finely diced onions, carrots and celery – the traditional ratio is two parts onion to one part carrot and one part celery.

RTER A T S N E KITCH

Thisisthe flavourbase formany different dishes,such as soups

rounds. Simply press down sharply, then lift the cutter straight up.  Turning over To make sure your scones end up with a perfectly smooth, flat surface, transfer them to the baking tray upside-down. The flat side that was on the work surface while you were cutting them out should become the top.  Egg-washing Brushing the scones with a beaten egg is essential for achieving that iconic golden, shine – try to avoid any dripping down the sides for a more professional finish.

& Turn to page 100 for inventive twists on the traditional scone recipe.

KIT

r e p p o h c mini oing into the The faff of g nd setting cupboard a ulky food up a large, b an be processor c than more hassle it’s worth – hen especially w t to you just wan uick whip up a q sto hummus, pe ini or salsa. A m n. great solutio a is r e p p o h the c sit neatly on to h g u o n e ll doesn’t It’s sma le space and tt li p u s e k ta t size for countertop, ’s the perfec It . ly b m e s s a ncourage require any will always e d n a , s k c a n scratch midweek s dients from re g in re a p ght. you to pre to shop-bou g in rn tu n a rather th

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 109

WEEKEND PROJECT

Vegetarian sausages A

traditional Welsh sausage, the Glamorgan is made with cheese, leeks and breadcrumbs. Our recipe makes 12 and freezes well, so serve some for a weekend brunch and freeze the rest for another time.

Glamorgan sausages MAKES 12 PREP 30 mins plus at least 1 hr 30 mins chilling COOK 20 mins EASY V ❄

1 Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat until foaming, then fry the leeks with a pinch of salt for 5-10 mins until soft. Leave to cool slightly.

2 Mix half the breadcrumbs, the thyme, egg yolks, cheese, mustard and a large pinch of black pepper in a bowl to combine. Stir in the leeks along with the butter in the pan and a pinch of salt, then bring together using your hands.

3 Mould into 12 sausages (divide and weigh for accuracy, if you like) using damp hands to stop them sticking. Transfer to a baking tray lined with baking parchment and freeze for 10 mins until firm, or chill for 30 mins in the fridge.

4 Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites in a shallow bowl with a pinch of salt until lightly foamy. Tip the flour and remaining breadcrumbs onto separate plates.

110 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

5 Dip the chilled sausages in the flour, then the beaten egg white and finally the breadcrumbs. Chill for at least 1 hr, or up to 24 hrs.

6 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the sausages in batches, turning gently every minute for 4-6 mins until golden and crisp all over (add a little more oil between batches if needed). Transfer the fried sausages to a baking tray and bake for 10 mins until golden brown.

To freeze, put on a baking tray and leave to cool, then freeze uncovered until solid. Transfer to freezerproof containers and freeze for up to three months. Reheat from frozen in the oven at the same temperature as above for 25 mins or until piping hot.

PER SERVING 316 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 9g • carbs 19g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 14g • salt 1g

TIPS  Breadcrumbs Although most recipes use fresh white breadcrumbs, you can use any bread you have – some will add more flavour than others. Try wholemeal for a nuttier taste.  Cheese Rich, gooey cheese is an important aspect of a Glamorgan sausage. Most recipes call for caerphilly or cheddar, but you can switch it up with gruyère or double gloucester.  Frying Test the heated oil by adding a few breadcrumbs – if they bubble and turn golden brown straightaway, it’s ready to use. Be sure to fry the sausages in batches so the pan isn’t overcrowded. This ensures the sausages become crisp and golden brown on all sides, and means the oil will maintain a consistent temperature for even cooking.

Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, DAVID COTSWORTH

50g butter 2 large leeks, sliced 400g fresh fine white breadcrumbs 2 tsp thyme leaves 4 eggs, separated 400g caerphilly or mature cheddar, finely grated 1 heaped tbsp wholegrain or Dijon mustard, or 2 tsp English mustard 50g plain flour 100ml vegetable oil, plus a little extra if required

skills confident cook

WHY I LOVE MY

chakla and belan Chef and author Chetna Makan on her treasured kitchen kit. Chetna’s new book, Chetna’s 30 Minute Indian (see p31), is out now.

YES IT WORKS!

U N U S U A L F L AV O U R C O M B I N AT I O N S

There are many things in my kitchen that I love, but there’s one I use a lot, the chakla and belan (rolling board and pin). It’s used for making flatbreads, from roti to paratha and puri. My dad bought it for me when I lived in Mumbai and I brought it here.

The wood is smooth after years of use and the belan seems like it has been shaped for my hands, as it’s a perfect fit and rolls beautifully.

Each individual element of this combination screams summer, so why not put them all together in a delicious salad? The sweetness of the watermelon mixed with the salty feta, fragrant mint and tangy balsamic vinegar makes a cohesive, delicious dish.

feta

+ +

flipping meat THE MYTH R N M E AT U T D L U O H S YO U SIBLE S O P S A E L T T I AS L ING DURING COOK BARNEY SAYS ‘This myth applies when barbecuing or pan-frying steaks, chops or burgers. It goes a little something like: “Cook the meat for 5 mins before flipping and giving it the same amount of time on the other side.” Every time I’ve done this, it just doesn’t seem right – one side browns beautifully, while the other sweats and never achieves the same crust on the second side. And, when

you cut into the meat, the cooking is often uneven. So, when searing directly over hot coals or pan-frying individual cuts of meat, you’re far better off if you turn the meat every minute or so to build up an even crust on both sides. This way, you’ll have meat that’s cooked a lot more evenly on both sides. You’ll also look more impressive standing at the grill, completely in control!’

mint

+ balsamic

MYTH BUSTER

watermelon

CLEVER KITCHEN HACKS

identically-sized muffins Use an ice cream scoop to portion muffin or cake batter into paper cases for even-sized cupcakes or muffins every time.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 111

NEXT LEVEL

Chocolate ice cream recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph YUKI SUGIURA SERVES 6-8 PREP 20 mins plus at least 6 hrs freezing NO COOK EASY V ❄

WHY Our next-level series is all about bringing you our best version of a favourite recipe, and often that means it’s a little more complex or requires a bit of extra effort. But, on this occasion, we’re actually making this better-than-thetraditional, deeply chocolatey, fudgy ice cream easy to make and serve at home. Anyone can achieve the best results using this recipe, and without an ice cream maker. You don’t even need to make a custard and worry about eggs scrambling.

Not only is the method simple – without compromising on flavour or texture – it’s also easy to serve, ready to scoop straight from the freezer.

CHOCOLATE CHOICE The chocolate in this recipe is sweetened and diluted by the cream and condensed milk, so start with something dark and bitter. At least 70% dark chocolate is perfect.

TE COLA O H o ED C e like t w l, a S A LT n ch tio th a pin i it’s op w e il h m W s crea mplifie our ice a t e i v r e e s s cau uts salt be r and c u o v of sea a l ef ocolat s. the ch eetnes w s e h th throug

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

W H AT T O B U Y 200g dark chocolate (at least 70% cocoa solids), chopped into small pieces 500ml double cream 340g can sweetened condensed milk 1 tsp vanilla extract 3 tbsp organic cocoa powder, sifted 50g milk chocolate chips sea salt flakes, to serve (optional)

112 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

MAKE IT CHUNKY Adding chocolate chips creates a double hit of chocolate, but you could add chopped brownies, chunks of cookie dough, fudge pieces or chopped nuts, like pecans or hazelnuts, instead.

W H AT ’ S YO U R F L AV O U R This no-c ? hurn, soft -s erve base be applie can easily d to other ice cream COFFEE flavours: ICE CREA M Instead o f melted c hocolate add 2 sho and coco ts of espr a, e s s o in step 2.

SALTED C ARAMEL RIPPLE IC Or, gently E CREAM fold throu g h 200g s caramel s alted auce to c reate a rip ple effect.

skills next level

SWEET ENOUGH Because the condensed milk and chocolate chips are sweet, we found that there’s no need to add extra sugar.

HOW TO MAKE IT 1 Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of just-simmering water, ensuring the bowl doesn’t touch the water, or do this in the microwave in 20-second bursts, until smooth and glossy. Leave to cool slightly. Pour the cream, condensed milk and vanilla into a second bowl and beat for 3 mins using an electric whisk until slightly thickened and the beaters leave a trail in the mixture when lifted across the bowl.

Be careful not to overwhip, as you don’t want the mixture to be too stiff – as soon as the beaters leave a trail, it’s ready.

2 Gently fold the melted chocolate and cocoa powder into the cream mixture until thoroughly combined, ensuring the spatula is reaching the bottom of the bowl so all the chocolate gets mixed in. Fold in most of the chocolate chips, reserving a small handful. Scrape the mixture into a 1-litre freezerproof container, then scatter over the reserved chocolate chips. Cover and freeze for at least 6 hrs until firm but scoopable. Will keep frozen for up to a month. To serve, scoop the ice cream into chilled bowls or ice cream cones and sprinkle with a pinch of sea salt, if you like.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (8) 642 kcals • fat 51g • saturates 31g • carbs 36g • sugars 33g • fibre 4g • protein 8g • salt 0.2g

next month next level scotch eggs in our August issue, on sale Thursday 29 July

OC THE CH trast E L P I ple con TR im s a r o one f te base We’ve g chocola k r a d e ice n th s in this ip h betwee c e t a chocola also add o and milk t e e r f hunks but feel cream, colate c o h c e it of wh n. handful e versio t la o c o le-ch for a trip

Subscribe to

PERFECT PARFAIT Because of the mousse-like texture of this ice cream, it could be sliced and served as part of a more complex dessert plate.

To turn it into a parfait, set it in a lined loaf or terrine tin so it can be turned out and sliced.

& Dan Saladino and his father Bobo explore the history, science and magic of ice cream and ice cream vans in a glorious episode of The Food Programme.

To listen search ‘The Food Programme, ice cream’ on BBC Sounds.

and never miss an issue

Get 12 issues for £39.99, and receive an air fryer • Turn to page 54 for details *For full terms and conditions, see page 54

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 113

CELEBRATE THE UK’S FINEST MAKERS AND PRODUCERS Indulge in delicious street food ♦ Discover beautifully handcrafted gifts ♦ Shop from small producers and artisans ♦ Pick up inspiration and craft supplies ♦ Explore the magnificent surroundings of the Wimpole Estate ♦ Enjoy live music and entertainment

Book tickets now at

New outdoor fair!

artisancollectivefair.co.uk Look forward to brighter times with a great day out!

Book in confidence knowing that, should the Fair be unable to go ahead, tickets can be transferred to a future event or refunded.* Hosted by

£3.50 transaction fee per e-ticket order and £4.50 per postal ticket order applies. *Refunds exclude the transaction fee and See Tickets Refund Protection cost. Organised & presented by Immediate Live (the trading name of River Street Events Ltd and Upper Street Events Ltd). Details correct at time of print. ©National Trust Images/Andrew Butler

skills extras

COOKBOOK CHALLENGE

Amber & Rye by Zuza Zak

Editor Keith Kendrick makes a gloriously rich chocolate mousse from the Baltic states

E

& Recipe adapted from Amber & Rye by Zuza Zak (£25, Murdoch Books).

Photographs by Sam A. Harris.

veryone loves chocolate mousse, but I can guarantee you’ve never had a chocolate mousse like Zuza Zak’s. Based on a popular Baltic dessert called ‘bread soup’, it’s thickened with rye bread, flavoured with caraway and a hint of apple juice. It’s extraordinarily rich, chocolately and satisfying.

Quite a revelation. Just like many of the recipes in Zuza’s new cookbook, Amber & Rye. Zuza, whose debut cookbook Polska was named one of the best cookbooks of 2016 on BBC Radio 4’s The Food Programme, was born in Poland and moved to the UK when she was eight. She worked in TV for eight years then started a supper club, A Slavic Tale.

Her new book celebrates the dishes from major cities in the Baltic states. Many ingredients are widely available, but some may be unfamiliar. Birch syrup, for example, the Estonian answer to maple syrup. But it’s rye bread – the most popular bread in the Baltics due to the grain growing so well there – that features in many of Zuza’s recipes, from her mousse to open sandwiches.

The inspiration for Zuza’s recipes come from her heritage and the revelation a couple of years ago that her dad was ‘half-Balt, half-Polish’ which ignited a quest to discover more about the food of the Baltic side of her ancestry. She writes, ‘With my grandmother’s stories ringing in my ears, and my own precious memories of holidays on the Baltic coast, I had a feeling that treasures deeply connected to the past were waiting to be discovered. My aim is to take you on a journey of discovery through this emerging cuisine.’

TRY IT YO U RS ELF Rye bread & chocolate mousse If you’re using Eastern European bread, it may well already be flavoured with caraway, so you could skip the caraway seeds.

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus soaking and chilling COOK 40 mins EASY V

300g day-old dark rye bread, cubed 1 /4 tsp caraway seeds, toasted and crushed (optional) 125g light brown soft sugar 1 tbsp fine semolina 250ml apple juice 100g dark chocolate, plus extra to serve 200ml double cream, whipped to stiff peaks

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Spread out the bread cubes on a baking tray and bake for 20 mins until dried and crisp.

2 Put the bread and caraway seeds (if using) in a large saucepan, cover

with 250ml water and leave to soak for 20 mins, then add the sugar and bring to the boil, stirring often so it doesn’t burn.

3 Mix the semolina with the apple juice until you have a smooth paste, then add to the pan. Lower the heat to a simmer and stir continuously for about 10 mins or until it has the consistency of thick porridge.

4 Break the chocolate into chunks, then add to the pan and stir until melted. Tip the mixture into a food processor and blend until very smooth – this could take up to 10 mins. Scrape into a bowl and leave to cool slightly.

5 Using a large metal spoon, gently fold in most of the whipped cream, then chill the mousse in the fridge for about 30 mins or until set. Serve with the remaining whipped cream and some chocolate shavings on top.

PER SERVING 483 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 15g • carbs 56g • sugars 32g • fibre 4g • protein 7g • salt 0.7g

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 115

Président brie, roasted grape & Puy lentil salad SERVES 4 a PREP 10 mins a COOK 20-25 mins a EASY

BRIE GOOD TO YOURSELF Hey, you! What’s the hurry? Slow down and enjoy a slice of the Good Life with Président, the leading French dairy brand in the UK

I

f there’s anything this past year has taught us, it’s that nobody knows what the future will hold.

So, it’s important to take the time to stop and truly cherish the now. For Président, this philosophy has long been at the heart of everything it does, because sometimes the simple, most obvious pleasures are the ones we should hold dearest.

For more than 50 years, this beloved French dairy brand has dedicated itself to helping people enjoy the Good Life, one delicious bite at a time.

Whether it’s sharing a selection of delectable Président cheeses during a

sun-dappled picnic with friends, or simply spreading its wonderfully creamy butter over your morning slice of toast, with Président, every day can feel like a triumph.

Now that the summer months are finally upon us, you’ll probably want to relax with dishes that are light and refreshing – and it doesn’t get much better than this roasted grape and Puy lentil salad made with Président brie.

Each wedge of this magnificent cheese has a buttery smooth texture and a delicate creamy taste that will add a touch of indulgence to your salad. After all, you deserve nothing but the best.

500g red grapes, picked from the stalk 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 unwaxed lemon 1 small garlic clove, crushed or finely grated 2 x 250g pouches Puy lentils ½ bunch of mint, leaves chopped 50g rocket 200g wedge of Président brie, halved and sliced

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.

Put the grapes on a baking tray, drizzle over 1 tbsp of the oil and season well. Put in the oven and roast for 20-25 mins until juicy. Meanwhile, mix the remaining oil with the red wine vinegar, lemon juice and garlic. Season to taste.

2 Once the grapes are ready, warm the lentils through according to pack instructions, then toss with the grapes and their juices. Spoon onto a serving plate and stir through most of the mint and all the rocket. Top with the Président brie slices, drizzle over the dressing, then scatter over the lemon zest and the rest of the mint to serve.

For more Good Life inspiration, visit president.uk.com

skills extras

BUTCHER’S BLOCK SPECIAL

The best ribs for your BBQ Butcher and writer Jessica Wragg gives the lowdown on pork ribs, one of the most popular choices for a summer barbecue Charred fat and silky meat that falls off the bone with one tug; I think when it comes to the pork rib we can all agree that there’s true meaning to the phrase ‘the nearer the bone, the sweeter the meat’. But, pork ribs can be a subject of contention.

Depending on where you are and who you’re talking to, asking for pork ribs at a butcher’s shop might get you one of a variety of cuts.

Fear not – I’m here to help you decipher the different kinds of ribs available and what sets each apart, helping you on your way to becoming a certified pit master.

Baby back ribs One thing to remember about baby back ribs is that they’re the least meaty of all rib cuts. Check with your butcher first if you’re looking for free-range, local pork ribs. As they’re taken from the loin, they’re generally a by-product for many butchers, who will only be able to get hold of them if they remove the bone from the pork chops. Because of this, many butchers import from Europe, where pork chops are commonly served boneless. With soft, succulent nuggets of meat in-between each bone, baby back ribs should be cooked over indirect heat for at least 2 hours. Pile on a sweet barbecuestyle sauce and cover in foil – these ribs will soak up the flavour as they ‘steam’ on your grill.

Spare ribs Not to be confused with the ‘spare rib chops’ taken from the shoulder, spare ribs are taken from the breast of the pig. Many butchers might call them ‘meaty ribs’ thanks to the layer of belly meat they’ll leave on when cutting, and will leave what’s called

the ‘rib tip’ on – the small flap of meat containing cartilage that connects the meat. The cut can be treated really similarly to baby back ribs, but the cooking time should be increased to allow the extra meat around the bone to tenderise. Cut them into singles, or cook as a whole piece covered in a brownsugar-based dry rub over a medium intensity indirect heat.

St Louis cut ribs Popular amongst pro-barbecuers, St Louis cut ribs are similar to spare ribs in terms of where they come from, but a little more refined. While

spare ribs taper off when left whole, the St Louis cut ribs are trimmed square, the rib tips removed to tidy the piece up. Whether a smoking novice or pitmaster pro, St Louis ribs are a reliable place to begin or continue your journey into low ‘n’ slow, thanks to the large amounts of intramuscular fat that tenderise from the inside out. Ask your butcher to remove the silver membrane from the back of ribs – it’s the only part of the meat that won’t soften throughout cooking. Barbecue this as a whole piece, well wrapped in foil, over a low indirect heat. You won’t regret it.

& • Turn to page 41 for our sticky barbecue ribs recipe.

• Jessica’s book Girl on The Block (£20, Dey Street, Harper Collins) is out now.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 117

D RIN KS CAB IN E T

Mix things up TWISTS ON A CLASSIC Owner of London cocktail bar Funkidory Sergio Leanza tells us how to put a new spin on our favourite tipples, as we’ve done with our rosita (opposite)

1

DON’T COCKTAILS HAVE A STRICT FORMULA?

Not all, but many do. For example, a daiquiri is two parts ‘strong’, or rum; one part sweet (sugar) and one part sour (lime). One of my favourite ‘formulas’ is a Barbadian rhyme for rum punch: ‘one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak’. That can be used as a base to make a good punch from scratch.

2

ARE THERE ANY RULES THAT SHOULD BE FOLLOWED WHEN SWAPPING ONE SPIRIT FOR ANOTHER?

I’m not one for following too many rules, but one of the most important things a cocktail needs is balance.

Like any food dish, it shouldn’t be too sweet, salty, sour or savoury.

So, it makes sense to change one sweet ingredient out for another, or a spirit with a spirit. Use sour and sweet ingredients to balance the drink or remove them as needed.

3

CAN YOU SWAP A SPIRIT FOR A LIQUEUR?

It depends – how will that swap affect the sweetness and overall flavour? Liqueurs can be very sugary, and using too much could result in an overly sweet cocktail.

4

HOW CAN YOU PUT A TWIST ON A CLASSIC WITH JUST A FEW INGREDIENTS?

At Funkidory, we do an oolong martini that’s a twist on a classic dry gin martini. I use Victory London Dry gin and fino sherry (instead of dry vermouth) – the ingredients are then infused with waikato oolong tea leaves from Rare Tea Company. The infused gin and sherry is stirred with ice and served cold in a chilled glass, with a little lemon zest twisted over the top.

5

WHAT’S THE MOST EXCITING TWIST YOU’VE MADE OR TRIED?

We were joking about how a cross between a manhattan and dirty martini would taste, and thought it was crazy to even try creating one.

But, it has actually became a staple at Funkidory and is now one of our best-selling cocktails. The rye lane is a lovely, creamy, strong, savoury whisky cocktail. We started serving so many of these when we came up with the idea that we just had to put it on the menu.

& Bartender and owner of popular south London neighbourhood bar Funkidory in Peckham, Sergio has extensive experience in the drinks industry. Previously bar manager at Nine Lives and head bartender at HIX Restaurants, he began his bartending journey in 2003 at The Grand Hotel in Milan. funkidory.com @funkidory

118 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

WE STILL LOVE… TEQUILA To be called ‘tequila’, the spirit can only be distilled in certain parts of Mexico – otherwise, it’s just an agave spirit. And, there’s so much more to it than margaritas or shots. There are multiple variants, like blanco tequila – the unaged spirit – and reposado or añejo tequilas (aged spirits). Tequilas aged in virgin or used oak barrels have woody, caramel, vanilla and dried fruit notes, making them ideal in traditionally rum- or whisky-based cocktails such as old-fashioneds. Aged tequila is distinguishable by its amber colour. For more ideas, visit bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ collection/tequila-cocktail-recipes.

AMY KINNEAR. Additional images HOLGER LEUE/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY IMAGES

Drink photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food and prop stylist

Our resident drinks expert Miriam Nice serves a rosita, a recipe that takes its lead from the ever-popular negroni.

Plus, Sergio Leanza shares advice on how to customise classic cocktails into tipples that suit your own palate

skills drinks

T RY A N E W C O C K TA I L Rosita If you like negronis, you’ll enjoy this twist. Tequila replaces the usual gin, adding extra punch.

SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V

50ml reposado tequila 10ml Campari 25ml red vermouth handful of ice pared lemon or grapefruit zest, to garnish

More ideas for July Paloma

1 Put the tequila, Campari, vermouth, ice and citrus peel in a tumbler glass.

2 Stir with a cocktail spoon until the outside of the glass feels cold and the ice is well incorporated into the drink.

Taste to check the dilution before serving (see tip, below).

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 170 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 3g •

SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins EASY V

Dip the rim of a highball glass in water, shake off, then dip in salt.

Fill a shaker with ice. Add 50ml blanco tequila, 10ml agave syrup, 10ml lime juice and 10ml pink grapefruit juice. Shake until the outside of the shaker feels cold.

Strain into the glass. Add a few ice cubes. Top up with soda water.

fibre 3g • protein none • salt 0.01g GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 163 kcals • fat 0.1g • saturates none •

tip Typically, a negroni is equal parts gin, Campari and vermouth. In a rosita, you can adjust the proportions to strike a balance between the complexity of the tequila and the vermouth.

The vermouth should take a back seat, providing a rosy hue and dash of bitterness.

& Miriam Nice is an author and illustrator. She has written over 350 recipes for BBC Good Food. @miriamjsnice

carbs 12g • sugars 12g • fibre none • protein 0.3g • salt 0.02g

Alcohol-free amaretto sour SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins EASY V

Put 100ml pineapple juice, 50ml lemon juice, 1/2 egg white, 10ml syrup from a jar of maraschino cherries and a few drops of almond extract in a blender. Pulse a few times until pale and increased in volume. If the blender is high-powered, add a few handfuls of ice and pulse twice to chill. Or, stir in the ice until the outside of the jug feels cold. Pour into glasses and garnish with maraschino cherries.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 42 kcals • fat 0.1g • saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • fibre none • protein 1g • salt 0.1g

Summer punch SERVES 8-10 PREP 10 mins EASY V

Mix 125ml lemon juice and 50g caster sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Pour into a punch bowl.

Add 250ml elderflower liqueur, 250ml vodka, 500ml apple juice and 125ml sparkling water.

Fill with ice and stir gently. Serve.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 177 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 16g • sugars 16g • fibre none • protein none • salt none

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 119

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opinion

Summer Taste Awards 2021 Our annual taste test to find the best supermarket food this summer is back with a bang words and adjudication ANNA LAWSON photographs NEIL WATSON

Also in the opinion section

A new way

Rosé state of

to barbecue

mind

My favourite

Melissa Thompson talks to chefs about outdoor cooking, p128

VictoriaMooreonsummer’s most refreshing wine, p133

MichelleMiah’smemories of Jamaican food, p134

dish

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 121

F

rom bangers, burgers and buns, to quiche, picnic salads and hummus, our expert panel of BBC Good Food judges blind-tested 150 products to find the very best supermarket own-brand products for your summer barbecues and picnics.

HOW WE DID IT We chose 20 of the most popular summer foods to test (however, one of these categories was eliminated on the day, as none of the products met our standards). All food was prepared and cooked following pack instructions, and presented by independent home economists. Ready-to-eat picnic products such as quiche, falafels and sausage rolls were sampled both cold and hot. Judges blind-tested each product and submitted their score and comments via an online answer form.

Judging took place in silence to ensure the panel didn’t influence one another’s decisions, and the entire process was overseen by an independent adjudicator.

The team sampled 150 different entries from 13 supermarkets to find a winning product in each category. Additionally, they were able to nominate up to two products for ‘highly commended’ status, for those that didn’t come first but still deserved recognition. These entries can be found at bbcgoodfood.com.

Read on to find out which products came out on top.

Best for BBQ

Hot dogs & ice cream

BEST VEGAN SAUSAGES (JOINT WINNER) Vemendo vegan sausages £1.59 (270g), Lidl These taste like a cross between a herby potato cake and sage and onion stuffing, and have a crispy coating. They’re great simply baked – but if you want to barbecue them, handle gently when turning.

BEST VEGAN SAUSAGES (JOINT WINNER) Plant Kitchen plant bangers £3.50 (270g), M&S For those looking for a meat-like sausage substitute, this is the closest to a pork sausage in both texture and flavour of those we tried.

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opinion

BEST ICE CREAM Scrumptious Summer salted caramel banoffee pie ice cream £3 (500ml), Waitrose & Partners Banana flavour can often be divisive, but this ice cream was a real hit with our judges. It’s deliciously creamy with crunchy biscuit pieces and salted caramel – it really does taste like banoffee pie!

BEST HOT DOG BUNS (JOINT WINNER) Specially Selected brioche hot dog rolls £1.19 (pack of six), Aldi These buttery brioche buns have a lovely golden-yellow colour and appealing shine on top. Soft yet sturdy, they pair very well with a saltier sausage.

BEST HOT DOG BUNS (JOINT WINNER) Deluxe brioche hot dog rolls £1.19 (270g pack of six), Lidl On equal par with Aldi’s rolls (left), these golden buns are also soft, sweet and satisfying.

BEST SAUSAGES Specially Selected monterey jack and chilli cheese hot dogs £1.99 (400g), Aldi These bangers have a golden-brown exterior and soft, juicy interior.

Jalapeños provide peppery, spicy notes without being overwhelming, while the monterey jack adds extra savoury flavour. They pair well with a sweet brioche bun.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 123

Best for BBQ

Burgers, buns & kebabs

BEST BURGERS The Best shorthorn burger £3 (340g), Morrisons A unanimous winner, this thick, juicy burger made with British shorthorn has smoky barbecue notes and cooks to a perfect medium as long as you follow pack instructions.

BEST BURGER BUNS Sesame-topped milk burger buns £1.20 (330g), Sainsbury’s The best all-rounder – not just for holding juicy burgers, but for making picnic baps too. These Japanese-milk-bread-inspired buns are super-soft and fluffy with an attractive sesame seed topping.

BEST BARBECUE SAUCE Sticky Kansas-style BBQ marinade and sauce £1.25 (280g), Morrisons Treacle-like sweetness is balanced against vinegary acidity and a slight smokiness here.

It’s thick enough to use in a burger, but would make a great marinade for pork ribs, too.

BEST VEGAN KEBAB Indian-inspired veggiebabs £1.69 (320g), Aldi These well-seasoned kebabs are packed with veg and chickpeas, and flavoured with mild curry-style spicing.

Great served with salad, raita and chilli sauce.

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opinion

BARBECUE-READY CHICKEN Birchwood garlic & herb spatchcock chicken £3.49 (1.1kg), Lidl A resounding winner that’s great for feeding families, this succulent spatchcocked chicken has perfectly crisp golden skin and a sticky herby coating.

BEST KEBAB (MEAT OR FISH) British minted lamb kebabs £2.49 (320g), Aldi These wellseasoned lamb kebabs have a good level of spice and a hint of mint.

Ideal for the barbecue but just as good in the oven, they char well on the outside while remaining soft inside.

BEST VEGAN BURGERS Plant Kitchen no beef burger £3.50 (320g), M&S If you’re after a vegan burger that mimics meat, this is the best we tried – the patty is well-seasoned and has a good, firm texture that holds well when cooked.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 125

Best for a picnic

Prices correct at time of press and subject to change.

Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist FAYE WEARS

BEST READY-MADE PICNIC SALAD Taste the Difference Middle Eastern-inspired chickpea salad with tangy beetroot yogurt dressing £2.25 (220g), Sainsbury’s This well-seasoned salad combines chickpeas, dried fruit and fresh mint with a nicely acidic yet creamy beetroot yogurt dressing.

Great for a picnic or served alongside barbecued meats.

gherkins,

BEST VEGETARIAN PASTRY ROLLS Handcrafted roasted root vegetable rolls £3 (188g), M&S These crowd-pleasing pastry rolls are full of colourful, chunky veg, including parsnip, swede and squash. The filling is well-seasoned and nicely spiced, and the pastry is golden, flaky and topped with seeds.

Just as good cold as they are hot, these are a great veggie option.

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BEST COLESLAW The Best burger coleslaw £2 (270g), Morrisons Our judges loved this colourful, nicely acidic slaw packed with white and red cabbage, carrot, gherkins, red onion, mature cheddar (a fun addition) and a tangy mustardy dressing. Try it in a burger, alongside kebabs or in a wrap.

HANDHELD PASTRIES No. 1 mozzarella & pesto swirls £3 (170g), Waitrose & Partners These pastry swirls combine golden layers of crisp, buttery pastry with a super-cheesy pesto, soft cheese and mozzarella filling. Whether you serve these cold or warm, they are moreish.

opinion

BEST FALAFEL Levantine Table herb falafels £3 (200g), Waitrose & Partners Described as ‘superior for a shop-bought falafel’, these have a good chunky texture, warm spicing and plenty of fresh parsley and coriander.

BEST HUMMUS Extra-smooth hummus, £2 (170g), M&S Our judges are seriously impressed with this silkysmooth, restaurant-quality hummus that could pass for homemade. It’s well-salted, heady with garlic and fresh lemon, and beautifully topped with chickpeas and a drizzle of olive oil.

BEST SAUSAGE ROLLS Handcrafted foot-long sausage roll £5 (300g), M&S Moist, onion-spiked pork is wrapped in crisp, buttery pastry, and topped with a salty crackling and bacon crumb.

Designed for sharing.

BEST QUICHE Hand-finished Barber’s cheddar & caramelised shallot quiche £4 (400g), M&S This generously filled quiche is well-seasoned, with rich mature cheddar and sweet caramelised shallots. It’s good hot or cold, and our number-one choice of quiches to take to a picnic.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 127

Melissa Thompson

Discover a new way

Delight your family and friends with these popular dishes for enjoying outdoors,

S

ummer, to me, means barbecue. Cooking outside, hopefully in sunshine, and surrounded by friends and family.

Fire cooking is primal; it’s a universal language that transcends borders, nationalities and languages. From suya, jerk and barbacoa to braai, yakitori, tandoori and British bangers, I love it all. So, here, brilliant chefs and cooks share their favourite barbecue dish or memory.

1

PATAGONIAN ASADO

Television chef Chris Roberts launched Chrisfest in 2019, a festival celebrating asado, his favourite barbecue style, in his hometown of Caernarfon, Wales (flamebaster.com).

‘Mountain lambs here in Snowdonia eat flowers, wild berries, herbs and grass. That gives them an amazing flavour, and asado is the best way to showcase them. They’re basted in a Patagonian gaucho brine then cooked on an iron cross over a fire – bone-side for about four hours, then skin-side for the final hour. The result is juicy lamb and the craziest crackling. It’s a cross between crispy pig skin and a Dime bar.

‘My dad Colin, who passed away in 2013, first told me about asado after he travelled to Patagonia, Argentina. But I didn’t really appreciate it, being a teenager.

Then, as I watched Francis Mallmann on Chef’s Table cooking asado, all of Dad’s stories came back.

‘Asado is a way of life. The fire brings people in – it doesn’t matter who you are or where you’re from.’

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The fire brings people in – it doesn’t matter who you are

opinion

to barbecue

courtesy of seven brilliant masters of the craft

MIDDLE EASTERN GRILL Chefs, restaurateurs and authors Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich run Honey & Co (honeyandco.co.uk). The couple’s fourth book, Chasing Smoke (£26, Pavilion Books) is out now.

Sarit says, ‘My favourite barbecue food is lamb chops.

As kids back home (in northern Israel), this was the luxury dish at a grill restaurant. It’s expensive and it’s lovely.

‘They’re prepared with salt and pepper, with lemon juice as they come off the grill. They’re never served pink and never Frenchtrimmed, but cooked with the layer of fat which adds all this

flavour. They’re always cooked through, enough for the fat to melt and impart all its flavour.

That’s important.

‘There is a recipe in our new book for lamb chops marinated with tahini, pomegranate molasses, chilli and anchovies. The tahini caramelises so it becomes rich, nutty and slightly smoky. To me, there’s nothing tastier.’

Itamar says, ‘For me it’s kofta.

They’re the essence of the grill – a good kebab is a thing of great beauty and skill. It needs to be cooked all the way through but not be dry, and it needs to be soft, not tough. There’s a lot of pride in the making of them.

‘There are so many ways to make kofta – but it’s all delicious.’

VEGAN JERK DRUM Kyle Parchment runs Jam ‘n’ Vegan (jamnvegan.com), a plant-based catering company that sends vegan meals around the country from his hometown in Birmingham. A vegan for four years, much of his food is inspired by his Jamaican roots.

‘I love to barbecue. The jerk drum is a massive part of Jamaican culture and being vegan doesn’t stop that. You can still get the same vibe from a vegan perspective.

There’s still the smoke and the caramelisation.

‘My go-to is jerk tofu. I marinate tofu in my jerk paste overnight,

cook it on the jerk drum, and then add coleslaw, plantain and sliced tomato served on coco bread (made with coconut) with some Bajan pepper sauce and grilled pineapple on the side. It’s great, and meat-eaters love it. As long the flavours are there, it’s all good.’

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 129

FILIPINO INASAL Mary San Pablo runs Luto (luto london.com), a Filipino supperclub and pop-up based in London.

‘I really enjoy traditional Filipino barbecue pork, known as pork inasal.

Skewered pork belly and shoulder, marinated in garlic, soy, black pepper, annatto (a deep red spice), and Sprite, which tenderises and sweetens.

‘As a kid I was a fussy eater, but when we went to the Philippines, barbecue was something my parents could feed me – it was available on every street corner.

‘The pork glistens with some really charred crispy bits, caramelised because of the Sprite and palm sugar.

‘Whenever I smell it, it takes me back to the Philippines.’

Thepork glistenswith somereally charred crispy bits

5

DEEP SOUTH TACOS

NIGERIAN SUYA Aminat Olayiwola runs Mina’s Kitchen (@minasskitchen) in Manchester, specialising in seafood boils and Nigerian food. She grew up in Lagos, Nigeria.

‘As a child I once spent my school fees on suya.

I got in trouble with my grandmother, but I have no regrets. It’s that nice.

‘Suya is mainly made with thin slices of beef but it can also be made with chicken or lamb. It’s marinated in spices for a day or two, cooked over fire, and served with tomatoes and onion.

‘Back in Nigeria, it’s what I look forward to eating.

It’s a staple street food, cooked on the roadside.

I make suya at home with spice brought over from Nigeria. Ginger, garlic and onion powders, salt, African nutmeg and African cloves.

‘It’s best eaten outside – the mosquitoes will get you, but you won’t even notice.’

130 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

PERSIAN GRILLED FISH Razieh Niroomand, originally from Iran, teaches Persian food from her north London home with Migrateful, a charity that runs cookery classes led by migrant chefs (migrateful.org).

‘My best barbecue memory was in the 1980s back in Iran, when I had sturgeon fish from the Caspian Sea, marinated with saffron, onion and lemon, and cooked over charcoal. It was the best fish I’ve ever had.

‘In Iran, people cook over coals a lot. We’d often get together for barbecues at the weekend. It was a lot of fun.’

To read more from Melissa, go to bbcgoodfood.com/writer/melissa-thompson

Photographs SAMER MOUKARZE, PATRICIA NIVEN, CRISTIAN BARNETT, MELISSA THOMPSON

Celebrated chef and BBC Good Food contributing editor Tom Kerridge says, ‘One of my best barbecue experiences were some tacos in a street-side taco shack in Tucson, Arizona. All sorts of offal, ribs and other bits were cooked quite quickly, chopped up then heavily roasted over mesquite coals.

‘I had no idea it would be that good. It was a battered old place with bits of cardboard on the floor to soak up the fat. There was years and years of flavour inside that little building. It tasted lush – just don’t ask what bits of animal they were!’

Tom’s new book, Outdoor Cooking (£22, Bloomsbury), is out now. For some of the barbecue recipes he’ll be cooking this summer, turn to page 86.

Discover Venice with Prue Leith

holidays

Join the culinary TV star on this luxury river cruise around the Veneto

EIGHT DAYS from £1,999pp*

1-8 November 2021 Eight days from £1,999pp*

V

enice is a truly magical place, a romantic ‘city of water’ where gondolas replace cars and the canals are lined with elegant Renaissance palaces. On this wonderful cruise, you’ll have plenty of time to explore Venice and the surrounding islands, as well as discover some of the region’s cuisine with iconic cookery star Prue Leith.

Prue, who’s had an extraordinarily varied and successful 50-year career, is now best known for her role as a judge on The Great British Bake Off. She’s also served as a judge on BBC Two’s Great British Menu and is a Michelin-starred restaurateur, caterer, broadcaster, journalist, cookery writer and novelist.

She’ll join you in Venice, a Unesco World Heritage site, for some very special events, including a chance to visit Venice’s Rialto food market. You’ll also be able to enjoy a cooking demonstration and exclusive talk with Prue, followed by a gala dinner featuring dishes chosen by her – all on-board your luxury cruise.

Uniworld’s European fleet features grand ships with an average capacity of 130 guests and the highest staff-to-guest ratio in the river cruise industry.

YOUR ITINERARY

Visit the famous Rialto food market with Prue

Day 1 Board the S.S. La Venezia in Venice Day 2 Explore the city, then an after-hours tour of St Mark’s Basilica Day 3 Chioggia Day 4 Bologna or Ferrara Day 5 Porto Viro, Chioggia and Burano Day 6 Venice islands and Prue Leith Q&A Day 7 Rialto food market with Prue Leith and farewell gala dinner Day 8 Disembark and return to the UK

What’s included ● Return flights from the UK ● Seven nights’ all-inclusive Uniworld

Enjoy a gala dinner with dishes chosen by Prue

Take in the sights of Venice from the water

cruise in a riverview stateroom ● All meals on-board plus unlimited drinks ● Exclusive talk and Q&A with Prue Leith ● Rialto food market visit with Prue ● Gala dinner with menu by Prue ● Six days of excursions, with ‘choice is yours’ options, as detailed in the full itinerary online (including after-hours tour of St Mark’s Basilica) ● Services of a Uniworld cruise director and tour manager ● All transfers and gratuities on-board and on shore

TO BOOK OR REQUEST A BROCHURE call 0808 239 9768 and quote Good Food or visit gf.tripsmiths.com/tours Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers: All bookings receive two free standard tickets to one of the BBC Good Food Shows** TERMS & CONDITIONS *Prices correct at time of going to press. Based on twin/double share, single supplement applies. Flights from other airports and/or overnight accommodation before/after the tour available on request and at a supplement. Timings of Prue’s events may be subject to change. Uniworld Holidays are operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Uniworld, a company wholly independent of BBC Good Food. **BBC Good Food Show tickets: BBC Good Food (published by Immediate Media Company London Limited) will contact you after your holiday to arrange tickets for your chosen show (excludes Saturday entry). Please see BBC Good Food’s privacy policy at policies.immediate.co.uk/privacy for details of how your personal information may be used for this.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 131

HOME COOKING SERIES

A special issue of over 130 plant-based recipes from the team at BBC Good Food

Summer inspiration

Easy everyday meals

. Can’t get to w o n s re to s d te c le e s Out in at magsdirect.co.uk shops? Order yours

Visit the Apple app store to download digital issues in the Home Cooking Series, including Good Food’s Vegetarian Summer and previous issues of Vegan magazine.

HOME COOKING Fully tested recipes SERIES from BBC Good Food

the Showstopping vegan desserts

opinion

Victoria Moore

Rosé isn’t just a wine, it’s a state of mind Nothing says summer like the most refreshing wine of them all, says our wine columnist @how_to_drink

@planetvictoria

It’s telling that when Kylie Minogue first thought of having wearetheuncommon.co.uk) which is another light, sparkling English pink. her own wine label, it wasn’t the usual dream of owning a As for bottled rosés, I recently tasted the Kylie Minogue villa with a view of a vineyard that seduced her. Instead, as she told The Sunday Times, one warm night over dinner Côtes de Provence Rosé 2020 France. It’s gorgeously under the stars in Nashville, she thought: ‘I’d love packaged, but I was surprised when I saw the £20 price tag – to have my own rosé.’ there are wines I’d prefer to drink at less than half this price.

Rosé isn’t just a wine, it’s a state of mind. A glass For tighter budgets, Bonne Mine Grenache 2020 Vin de of pale pink wine speaks of sun-warmed skin, blue France (£6, Co-op) is smooth and easy, a rush of strawberries skies, bright light, olive trees, al fresco café tables, and cream. For a couple of pounds more (and it’s worth a gently swishing sea and relaxation. It’s a growntrading up), Coeur de Cardeline Rosé 2020 CostièresWehurtle up version of ‘My Favorite Things’ from The Sound de-Nîmes (£8, Co-op) is divine. A pale pink wine, it’s towardsa of Music – and, you can drink it. made in the south of France, just across the Rhône glassofrosé No wonder we hurtle towards a glass of it as from Provence. You get more here for your money – assoonas soon as the sun comes out. You could probably a berry-scented wine with a hint of dried herbs. If you write an accurate retrospective weather summary thesun need your pink to come from Provence, then Château by looking at spikes in rosé sales, which usually du Rouët Cuvée Réservée Tradition 2019 Côtes de comes out correlate with sunshine and balmy temperatures.

Provence (£8.50 for 50cl bottle, Co-op) is very good.

I realise there are a lot of wines from Co-op here, but Highly drinkable rosé can now be bought in cans, that’s not for want of tasting around: they are the best bags and boxes as well as traditional bottles. I find of the wines available for tasting at the time of going to cans particularly useful for impromptu outdoor press. Château du Rouët comes in one of those curvy drinking. They cool quickly in the freezer and are provençale bottles that helps give the feeling that you’re on both lightweight and compact, making them easy to holiday, and it’s very subtle and dry. I also like the Mirabeau slip into a bag to take to the park, riverside or out on range – various cuvées that are available in different a boat. My favourites are IGO Organic Rosé NV supermarkets. Of these, Mirabeau Pure Provence Rosé 2020 Spain (£4.99 per 250ml can, Waitrose & Partners), The (£15.49, Waitrose & Partners) is a star with a delicate scent Curator Rosé 2020 South Africa (£4.25 per 250ml can, that transports you straight to the craggy hills of Provence. vinoteca.co.uk), Balfour Hush Heath Estate Pink Fizz NV Kent, England (£60 for 12 x 200ml cans, hushheath.com) and The Uncommon Eleanor Bubbly Rosé (from £4.99 Victoria Moore is an award-winning wine columnist and author.

Her most recent book is the The Wine Dine Dictionary (£20, Granta). per 250ml can, Waitrose & Partners, jascots.co.uk,

This month I’m drinking M&S Found Mazuelo 2019 Rioja, Spain (£8.50, M&S)

Look out for the blackand-orange livery of the excellent new M&S Found range. All the wines are made from lesser-known grapes, and there are a dozen to work your way through. This juicy, figgy red from the Rioja region is a good place to start.

Wine pairings Williams & Humbert Alegria Manzanilla Sherry NV (£5.49, 37.6cl bottle, Waitrose & Partners) Try this bone-dry sherry with Tom Kerridge’s paper-bag prawns on page 88.

Caves Road Margaret River Chardonnay 2018 Australia (£9.99, Aldi) A top-notch wine that’s elegant and slightly nutty. Serve it with the lobster rolls on page 34.

JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 133

M Y FAVO U R ITE D I S H

MICHELLE MIAH’S

JAMAICAN BROWN STEW CHICKEN We celebrate the world’s best comfort food by asking chefs and food writers from diverse backgrounds about the dishes they love. Here, Michelle Miah, co-owner of Rudie’s Jerk Shack in Brixton, shares her recipe for a classic Jamaican one-pot words TONY NAYLOR

M

y mum was all about Jamaica. She loved her heritage and made sure we did, too,’ recalls Michelle Miah, co-owner of street-food brand Rudie’s Jerk Shack. ‘The first time I went there, I felt I’d become complete as a young person. I’m black-British, but these are my roots – in family, culture and food.’

When Michelle met her now-husband, Matin, she recalls, ‘It was important that he understood what Jamaica meant to me.’ They took numerous road trips 134 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

I’m blackBritish, butthese aremy roots–in family, culture and food

around the island, often planned around legendary food spots to give him a taste of the real Jamaica.

For years, that foodie exploration informed their parties back in London: ‘Matin really can cook and, as a family, we’re known for throwing dinner parties and big cook-ups.’ But, in 2015, their long-held ambition to launch a restaurant (Michelle also works in fashion and design), resulted in the first Rudie’s.

Known for its 24-hour jerk-marinated meats cooked over charcoal, there are now six Rudie’s outlets, including its flagship Brixton restaurant.

Other Caribbean restaurants might serve dishes from across the islands, but, as Michelle puts it: ‘Our niche is that we’re not shy about saying we’re traditionally Jamaican food.’

‘My mum’s from Kingston and my dad’s from Portland in Jamaica. Mum came to the UK in the 1950s and eventually moved to Catford, where I grew up as the youngest of four sisters. Dad was a selfemployed carpenter and mum a senior carer for the elderly. She worked nights to look after us in the day.

It was hard-going. She had to be organised. I’d come home from school, pots would be on and by early

opinion Michelle’s mum taught her how to cook traditional food

Red snapper inspired by the dish Michelle’s mum used to cook

Rudie’s serves jerk-marinated meats and classic Jamaican meals

evening a meal would be ready and the table set. We all ate together every evening. I do that with my girls now and make sure it’s family time. By seven o’clock, she’d be off to work. We were well looked after.

‘You couldn’t go to my mum’s or aunties’ houses and not be hungry. There was always food, they fed everyone. That’s who they were. Mum’s answer to everything with us and her grandchildren was: “they’re hungry”. We’d probably just fed our children, but we’d turn up at hers, they’d look forlorn and she’d say, “their brain is starved, they need to be fed”.

‘We’d have toad-in-the-hole and shepherd’s pie and traditional Jamaican food. As the youngest, I got into the kitchen by asking questions. I was curious. I can cook rice and peas, yams, cornmeal porridge and brown stew chicken because I watched Mum. She would marinate the chicken on Saturday and cook it Sunday. It would smell great and there’d be music playing. She loved listening to reggae while she cooked. You can imagine how nice that was.

‘These ways of cooking have been passed down the generations. My nan lived in Stockwell in a house that was a hub for people – for those that had been invited

Above right: Michelle and her family at the GoldenEye resort on Oracabessa Bay in northern Jamaica

over to work – it was a place to stay until they found their feet. My nan cooked amazing lamb neck stew and rum cakes. She’d soak the fruit for months in Jamaican Red Label wine (similar to port) and Wray & Nephew overproof rum. It was so rich!

‘One of my cousins used to make the same recipe.

She’s passed away now, but her sister carries on the tradition, so we still get delicious cakes from that same recipe. Mum also got all the grandchildren involved in cooking and baking. I have nieces who cook brilliantly, having learned from her.

‘My mum’s speciality was fish. My aunties and Mum all worked in care homes or nursing, but, as a side-hustle, they’d cater for weddings, funerals and birthdays. Mum’s input was fried fish covered in a lovely pickle of carrots, onions and sweet peppers; batches of salt cod fritters and the most amazing red snapper. Sadly, Mum passed away in 2019, but, this Easter, one of my nieces made the snapper exactly how Mum would. She felt she needed to because it was something we traditionally have at Easter.

That was really nice.’ @rudieslondon rudieslondon.com JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 135

opinion

Easy oven-cooked Jamaican brown stew chicken SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus 24 hrs marinating COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY

1.6kg whole chicken 1½ tbsp demerara sugar 400ml hot chicken stock 1 tbsp browning sauce (I use Grace) 1 tsp plain flour mixed with 25ml cold water 1-2 spring onions, sliced, to serve rice and peas and slaw, to serve (optional) For the marinade 8 thyme sprigs 1 onion, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, chopped ½ scotch bonnet pepper, chopped 2 tomatoes, cut into wedges 2 tbsp all-purpose seasoning (I use Dunn’s River) 1 tbsp chicken seasoning (I use Dunn’s River) 6 whole pimento seeds, crushed 1 tsp black pepper 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

salt 5.2g

Dark rum

‘At Rudie’s, we use dark rum in a glaze for jerk pork and to make the caramel sauce for rum cake. Then, there’s rum punch – it’s a big part of our diet!’

Betapac

‘This is a Jamaican curry powder. We use it to get the right flavour and colour for curry goat.’

Scallion Red kidney beans

‘These are traditionally

136 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2021

used in rice and peas, a deliciously creamy dish and staple part of our culture. I can’t think of anyone who doesn’t like rice and peas. They’re also used in stew peas, which you have with pig’s tail.

At Rudie’s, we also do a version that’s vegan Ital (which is the diet of some Rastafarians) .’

‘Called spring onions here, they’re used for fragrance

and sweetness, especially in lamb neck stew and curries.’

All-purpose seasoning

‘This dry spice mix made with salt, paprika, garlic, onions, herbs and chilli is used across the Caribbean.

The richer the colour, the better it tastes (I’d recommend Dunn’s River).

It’s a general flavouring in meat or poultry dishes, and is nice dusted on chips. It’s great for finishing a dish.’

Photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN

PER SERVING 482 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 5g • carbs 17g • sugars 13g • fibre 2g • protein 48g •

FIVE ESSENTIAL JAMAICAN INGREDIENTS

Food stylist KATY GILHOOLY | Stylist AMY KINNEAR

1 Remove the skin from the chicken, joint it (learn how on bbcgoodfood. com), cut the breasts in half and separate the legs and thighs.

2 Put the chicken pieces in a large bowl along with all the marinade ingredients. Toss, then rub the mixture into the chicken. Cover tightly and chill for 24 hrs.

3 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Tip the chicken and marinade into a deep ovenproof dish. Cover and bake for 40 mins, then remove the lid and stir in the sugar, stock, browning sauce and flour mixture.

Bake for another 15 mins, uncovered, turning the chicken and basting it every 5 mins.

4 Check the chicken is cooked through. If not, bake for 15 mins more, then check again. Taste for seasoning, then scatter with the spring onions and serve with rice and peas and slaw, if you like.

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produced British meats, poultry and eggs, and sustainably sourced seafood.  To help avoid waste, we suggest how to use any leftovers you may have from our recipes.  Eggs carrying the British Lion mark guarantee that all hens are vaccinated against salmonella.  We try to avoid using plastic. You’ll find instructions to wrap or cover, but we won’t specify what to use unless it’s vital to the recipe.

Helping you to eat well Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our

consume daily. Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note RIs for total fat, saturates, sugar and salt are the maximum daily amounts).

Healthy recipes are checked to ensure they have a low amount of saturated fat, sugar and salt per 100g, equivalent to green on a traffic-light label.

On a per serving basis, Good Food require the saturated fat to be 5g or less, salt 1.5g or less and sugar, 15g or less per serving.

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Low-calorie recipes have 500 calories or less per main course, or 150 calories or less for a dessert. We also include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and highlight recipes that supply a third of the daily requirements of calcium, iron, folate and vitamin C, and a good source of fibre and omega-3.

Balanced recipes contribute to your five-a-day, include starchy carbohydrate, a lean source of protein and dairy, or plant-based alternatives. These recipes also use unsaturated oils in small amounts,

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JULY 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 145

last bite

recipe LIBERTY MENDEZ photograph MIKE ENGLISH

special

BLT panzanella Combining the traditional elements of a BLT – salty bacon, crisp lettuce and sweet tomatoes – with golden bread and a vinegarbased dressing, this twist on a panzanella ticks all the summertime boxes.

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

If you enjoy a light summer supper, this salad is a great way to use up leftover bread

6 rashers thick-cut bacon 300g day-old sourdough or other crusty bread, torn into large chunks 3 tbsp olive oil 700g ripe mixed cherry tomatoes, any larger ones halved 100g mayonnaise 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 1 tbsp capers, drained, rinsed and finely chopped

1 lemon, zested and juiced 1 tbsp honey small bunch of basil, finely chopped, plus extra leaves to serve 80g rocket

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 4. Put the bacon in a shallow baking tray in a single layer and bake for 15 mins, turning halfway through until just starting to crisp up. Add the bread pieces and 1 tbsp of the olive oil, season with black pepper and toss everything together.

Bake for 10 mins more until the bread is lightly toasted and the bacon crisp, tossing again halfway through. Leave to cool, then chop the bacon into rough pieces.

2 Tip the tomatoes in a colander set in the sink, sprinkle over 1 tsp sea salt and leave for 15 mins.

3 Whisk the mayonnaise, vinegar, shallot, capers, lemon zest and juice, honey and basil together in a small bowl and lightly season. Pour half the dressing into a large bowl and whisk in the remaining oil and 1 tbsp water. Tip in the rocket, drained tomatoes, bacon and croutons and toss to combine.

4 Pile the panzanella onto a large serving platter and scatter over the extra basil leaves. Serve with the remaining dressing on the side.

GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 404 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 4g • carbs 33g • sugars 10g • fibre 3g • protein 12g • salt 2.4g

in next month’s issue Family-friendly dishes for the summer holidays, plus Melissa Thompson’s tender, slow-cooked Sunday lamb

Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food and prop stylist AMY KINNEAR

Tonight’s

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