To Promote and Educate Consumers with Sustainable Fashion Brands
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018 //
Social Media // Social Impact // Social Good
Alva Liu // Livia Lin // Crystal Wang //
DEVELOP
CONTENTS
12
96
// INITIAL SYSTEM MAP //
98
// PROTOTYPES //
24
// SKETCHES //
34
// RESEARCH //
54
// PROBLEM STATEMENTS //
// TEAM //
// CREATING THE NAME //
16
// DESIGN PROCESS//
19
// PROCESS SKETCHES //
20
// MISSION STATEMENT //
DEFINE
INTRODUCTION 10
94
DELIVER 106
// OUR CAMPAIGN //
108
// REAL SYSTEM MAP //
110
// REAL PROTOTYPES//
138
// SHORT TERM GOALS //
140
// LONG TERM GOALS //
// REAL DESIGN PROCESS //
DISCOVER 58
// EXPERTS INTERVIEWS //
68
// CASE STUDIES //
80
// SURVEY TAKEAWAYS //
82
// DESIGN CRITERIA //
84
// DAY IN THE LIFE //
We are the real result of our hard work. Our passion for what we do makes us pioneers in our sector.
4 // INTRODUCTION
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
ABOUT THIS BOOK In Spring 2018 at Robert Rabinovitz’s Integrative Research and Development class, we started our semester long project called “Real”. We were assigned as a group, sketched out and discussed current events happened in fashion industry. After that, we created and followed our design process through the four phases, which are define, discover, develop, and deliver. The final book is finished based on our research and analysis. We came up with the final name “Real” as we explored in an early brainstorming session. We thought fashion should be real with real unique design, real cotton and real nature sources, and reveal our real beauty in our real life.
Our aim is to promote and educate people who are unaware of the significance of sustainable fashion. We design a label that is put on clothes as an approval for sustainable clothing and also for helping consumers know this piece of clothing is made ethically. It is our hope that more and more companies can be eligible to put this label on their clothes and people will be proud of themselves as an ethical consumer.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
6 // INTRODUCTION
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
8 // INTRODUCTION
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
10 // INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Real. GREAT TEAM
Creative Director
Alva Liu
Alva is our creative director. She helps building our brand image and coming up with brand logo design. Her goal is to help more ethical fashion brands to be known to consumers. She also wants to pursue a career in sustainable fashion company with an interest in luxury brands.
Chief Marketing Crystal Wang
As Chief Marketing Officer, Crystal is responsible for communicating our company. She is in charge of marketing strategies and reaching out with clients. Her main goal is to bring different perspectives and opinions to REAL. She is also responsible for providing ideas of our service and products to her social network.
Chief Development Officer & Director of Research Livia Lin
Livia joined REAL as a chief development officer in 2018. She plays a lead role in helping REAL entering Asian market. Prior to REAL, Livia interned in marketing office at Alexander McQueen and she hopes she can use past experience and her knowledge to bring positive attitudes to REAL.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
12 // INTRODUCTION
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
INTRODUCTION
CREATING THE NAME "Brand names mean something, Nicky. Consumers rely on them to know what they're getting." Frank Lucas 1
Vocabulary & Color & Typeface & Texture
We brainstormed the words related to fast fashion. We chose the color that would match each vocabulary from our brainstorming. To explore the feelings we wanted for our logo, we chose five fonts from serif, sans serif style to free handwriting style. We explored two kinds of textures. One is gradient grey which gives the feeling of problems being solved through time. And the other one is emboss, which gives the feeling of strong and reliable.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
14 // INTRODUCTION
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
INTRODUCTION
CREATING THE NAME
2
Logo Variation We first brainstormed some words that related to fast fashion, then we came up with the name "real" as our firm’s name because we thought that fashion should be real with real unique design, real cotton, and real nature sources and reveal our real beauty in our real life. We explored the logos of some other companies like Google, Airbnb and Pinterest, we found that they all use formal style logos like sans serif and serif style because they gave viewers a sense of reliable and work better on smartphones than other fonts. Therefore, we decided to choose Minon Pro as the font for our logo. We chose silver grey color representing neutral to describe the word "fashion" . And we chose to add a red period representing the meaning of "love","reward" and "social responsibility" to make the name "Real" strong.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
16 // INTRODUCTION
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
3
DESIGN PROCESS
1
Universal Traveler Book "The PROCESS of DESIGN or creative problem-solving describes a series or sequence of events, stages, phases or ENERGY STATES, as we will call them. Once each phase is knwon through experience, the design process as a whole can be appreciated as a round-trip which includes intentions, decisions, solutions, actions and evaluations."
Frog "Frog design is a global innovation firm. We work with the world's leading companies, helping them create and bring to market meaningful products, services, and experiences. Our multidisciplinary process reveals valuable consumer and market insights and inspires lasting, humanizing solutions."
4
Dubberly's
2
IDEO Field Guide to Human Centered Design "Human-centered design in uniquely situated to arrive at solutions that are desirable, feasible, and viable. By starting with humans, their hopes, fears, and needs, we quickly uncover what's most desirable."
"The creative process is not just iterative; it’s also recursive. It plays out “in the large” and “in the small”—in defining the broadest goals and concepts and refining the smallest details. It branches like a tree, and each choice has ramifications, which may not be known in advance. Recursion also suggests a procedure that “calls” or includes itself. Many engineers define the design process as a recursive function: discover > define > design > develop > deploy" The creative process involves many conversations—about goals and actions to achieve them—conversations with cocreators and colleagues, conversations with oneself. The participants and their language, experience, and values affect the conversations.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
18 // INTRODUCTION
DESIGN PROCESS
5 Avoca Ventures "User-centered design starts by identifying the target end users of the product and specifying the context of use. The main objective is to establish why these users would be interested in your product and how they want to use it. Then, it is important to group your data to formulate a set of requirements and user goals that must be met so as to ensure that the users’ needs are satisfied.
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
Real. PROCESS SKETCHES We began by summarizing and listing steps of process and categorized them into various parts. At the same time, we use diverse colors to categorize them. Then we were inspired by different design processes of firms we have found either from book or online, and we used the company called AVOCA as our main inspiration. Here are the process sketches.
It is only after these two steps are completed that you start designing potential solutions. The design phase can be iterative in nature and can evolve from a rough concept to a complete design. Take into account your goals, as you start this iterative process of product design and development. At the end, you need to evaluate the product you developed by doing, for example, usability testing to get users’ feedback. This process should be repeated until the best design is achieved."
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
20 // INTRODUCTION
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
INTRODUCTION
Real. DESIGN PROCESS Inspired by Avoca Ventures, our design process is made up of 4 different phases define, discover, develop and deliver. Each step has its own color, navy blue, matcha, mustard, red. We start our research, looking for one of the best topics at a sea of knowledge; the idea we choose should be as fresh as the taste of matcha and as healthy as what it is for our human body; we come up and develop prototypes that are the most suitable and helpful to our audience, just as how hotdog works perfectly with mustard; at the final stage, we deliver the core value of fashion, and it is not just about beauty, but also love and social responsibility. These five steps clearly summarize the whole process. At define and discover phases, we included large amounts of research data and analysis in order to identify gaps and opportunities more effectively. We spent most of the time in finding case studies that could be used as references and support to our idea. At develop and deliver phases, we work increasingly smoothly to our finalized idea because of all the support and analysis from the first two phases. We hope our service can promote each company's ethical value and help educate consumers about ethical fashion brands throughout the US.
1
2
3
4
DEFINE
DISCOVER
DEVELOP
DELIVER
We began our process by jotting down ideas of current events. Then we conducted research individually and each delivered 20 sketches of problems and solutions.
Through intensive research, we identified opportunities and gaps for improvements. We analyzed different companies' successes and failures.
We approached the problem from different directions, identifying people's needs and companies' gaps. Our aim is to improve current solutions instead of solving the problems completely.
Inspired by various companies, experts, teachers, and colleagues' reviews, we delivered and provided our finalized product and service to our clients
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
22 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
DEFINE • Sketches and themes • Fashion research • Brands you may not know • Problem statement
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
SKETCHES We began our exploration by researching current events in fashion industry, opportunities and past experience that inspire us. We each mind-mapped, researched, organized, and collaged, and produced 20 individual sketches. After putting sketches together, we brainstormed words that were inspired by these sketches and made them into word clouds. This is what we have.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
26 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
SKETCHES
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
28 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
SKETCHES
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
30 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
SKETCHES The initial research sketches lead us to research this concept further...
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
32 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
SKETCHES We picked these three sketches because they are some existing solutions and we might find opportunities and gaps from them.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
34 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
RESEARCH "Research is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought." Albert Szent-Gyorgyi Based on research, we know that our behavior is far more selfish than we might like to believe. Rational models of consumption are based on the idea that individuals make choices that balance costs and benefits. An ethical consumer will make rational judgements about purchases on the best outcome in terms of costs and benefits for them and the environment. The desire for new clothes is something that may be impossible to change. Brands should aim to help consumers do the right thing more easier with minimal use of virgin materials, water, energy and chemicals.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
36 // DEFINE
FASHION RESEARCH: WHY WE BUY
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
FASHION RESEARCH: HOW TO IMPROVE
Fashion and ego We believe our purchasing decisions are based on rational, conscious and well thought out deliberations. But the complexity of human behaviour and the fundamental nature of fashion implies that ethical consumption may not be an attainable goal. Purchase decisions are more likely to be driven by desires linked to pleasure and excitement. Fashion is a social activity for setting our status (the egoistical drivers) but it is also an activity that is driven by emotional desires such as the fantasy, excitement and aspirations of living a better, more fulfilling life.
Fast and ethical fashion 87%
of consumers said they’d purchase a product because a company advocated for an issue they cared about
75%
would refuse to purchase a product if they found out a company supported an issue contrary to their beliefs
The desire for new clothes is something that may be impossible to change. So instead of trying to appeal to the consumer’s supposed ethical streak, perhaps brands should aim instead to use new technology and business models to design products that can be recycled or re-engineered into new styles with minimal use of virgin materials, water, energy and chemicals. Though clothing production generally has a ways to go into terms of ethical practices and sustainable production, there are a few fashion labels who are on the right path with their fair trade practices, production ethics, cruelty-free methods and sustainable materials. Not only do consciously designed clothing brands positively influence how we shop, it leaves us feeling good about our purchases and inspires other companies to do better.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
38 // DEFINE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
2,100,000: Tons of CO2 emissions produ-
ced by the apparel and textile industry each year (second only to the petroleum industry).
Between 70,000,000 and 100,000,000: The number of trees cut down each year to make cellulose fabrics such as rayon and modal.
700: Gallons of water it takes to make one T-shirt.
The Apparel Industry’s Environmental Impact
20 pieces of clothing per person are manufactured each year. Roughly
Growth of the multi-trillion-dollar apparel industry has been fed by “fast fashion,” which makes clothing cheaply and quickly with a low price-tag. The apparel industry must embrace a new approach to sustainably meet demand in tomorrow’s markets.
93 percent: The percentage of companies that don’t know the origins of their raw fiber.
76 percent: The percentage of companies that don’t know where their fabrics were woven, knit, or dyed.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
40 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
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FASHION RESEARCH: ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS Water Stress It takes 2,700 liters (713 gallons) of water to make one cotton shirt --- what one person drinks for 2.5 years.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
42 //
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
FASHION RESEARCH: ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS Climate Change Polyester production for textiles released about 706 coal-fired power plants' annual emissions.
Polyester production for textiles in 2015
billion kg (1.5 trillion pounds) of greenhouse gases in 2015, the equivalent of 185
Coal-fired power plants' annual emissions
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
44 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
FASHION RESEARCH: ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS What is apparel's future? Apparel spending is projected to grow tremendously. This is particularly true in Asia, as hundreds of millions of people in China and India enter the global middle class. Historic and projected spending on apparel in key markets
By 2030, there will be 5.4 billion people in the global middle class, up from 3 billion in 2015. We can expect increased demand for clothes and other goods that define middle-income lifestyles. If consumption continues at its current rate, we’ll need three times as many natural resources by 2050 compared to what we used in 2000. Resource consumption set to triple by 2050
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
46 // DEFINE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
FASHION RESEARCH: H&M CASE STUDY
Even if H&M manages to mitigate its environmental footprint slightly from one year to the next, its business continues to grow, and that footprint remains enormous—and far from sustainable.
The company’s use of cotton is the material H&M uses most, and the company boasts that the non-profit Textile Exchange has recognized H&M as the world’s numberone user of organic cotton (pdf), which has a lighter environmental impact, and reduces the use of “probably” carcinogenic pesticides.
13.7%
But only of the cotton H&M uses is organic. And in any case, being such a massive user of the thirsty, energy-intensive crop—organic or not—may not be something to boast about.
Fast fashion is a driving force in modern consumer culture, which insistently nudges people toward buying more and more clothing, whether they need it or not. Inevitably, much of this excess finds its way into landfills. In the US alone more than
tons
10.5 million
of clothes end up in landfills each year, and even natural fibers may not break down easily. H&M is replacing part of its conventional cotton supply with organic, but a landfill overflowing with organic cotton is still an overflowing landfill.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
48 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
FASHION RESEARCH: H&M CASE STUDY
The unsustainable reality of fast fashion On April 9, H&M released its annual sustainability report for 2014. The document details—at great length—how the company is implementing more eco-friendly practices in its supply chain and stores to reduce the harm it causes the environment, as well as its efforts on a variety of social welfare issues such as gender equality and poverty alleviation. While the report makes it clear that H&M is doing a good deal to lessen its impact, a close read of the report also highlights the ways that goal and fast fashion are inherently at odds. By its nature, fast fashion is a volume business, which is exactly what makes it a strain on the planet. H&M
manufactures
at
least
600 million items
each year and operates more than
3,200
stores
Only 0.1 percent of
in
all clothing collected
55 countries. If you include
by charities and take-back programs
its subsidiary brands, such as
is recycled into new
COS, that number jumps above
3,500
stores,
and
textile fiber, according to H&M’s development
the
sustainability manager,
company is expanding its locations
10% to 15%
by each year. To operate those stores—not to mention manufacture and ship the clothes that fill them—requires a staggering amount of resources, from energy-hungry cotton to electricity, oil, and water.
$1,786
average household spent on apparel and related services In the US, H & M, LeviStrauss and The North Face sometimes offer
15.1 million tons textile waste
discounts of up to 20% for customers to bring their clothes, but they are able to recycle their clothes in much smaller
12.8 million tons were discarded
What Happens When Fashion Becomes Fast, Disposable And Cheap? H&M
has allowed customers to bring unwanted garments — which will be transformed to recycled textile fibers for new products — since 2013. The company aims to have "zero garments going to landfill." H&M also introduced new garments made of recycled textile fibers two year ago. For many stores, customers can get store credit and vouchers for sending in used clothing.
quantities than they sell.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
50 // DEFINE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
FASHION RESEARCH:
Consumers Are Willing to Pay a Price for Sustainability
40%
42%
64%
The willingness to pay for sustainable products has increased universally since 2011. On a global scale, the percentage of consumers willing to pay a premium for sustainable products and services increased from 45% in 2011 to 55% in 2014. Surprisingly however, the willingness to pay more is the lowest in the richest parts of the world, namely North America and Europe where only 42% and 40%, respectively, are willing to accept higher prices for products from socially responsible companies. This implies a growing opportunity of sustainable fashion in the future.
63%
63%
Based on a survey among 30,000 online consumers from 60 countries. Source: Nielson
NORTH AMERICA
LATIN AMERICA
MIDDLE EAST/
EUROPE
ASIA-PACIFIC
42%
63%
63%
40%
64%
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
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DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
BRANDS YOU MAY NOT KNOW Below, we’ve curated 11 ethical clothing brands you probably didn’t know about, but that’ll make you want to immediately ditch your unsustainable wardrobe.
Everlane is committed to radical transparency with every product they make, from materials to labor to transportation, then offer them to consumers, minus the traditional retail markup. MATT & NAT explores the synergy Stella McCartney’s commitment to sustainability is part of the brand’s ethos to being a responsible, honest, and modern company. Oh, and did we mention they’re
Mara Hoffman wasn’t always
cruelty-free?
an avid believer in sustainable
between
MAT(T)
ERIAL and NATURE. They’re committed to not using leather or any other animal-based materials in their designs and each season they continue to explore new innovative
ways
to
remain
sustainable and eco-friendly.
fashion. But once she realized how unsustainable her practices were, she quickly shifted gears. While the brand doesn’t claim to be perfect, they’re making major strides in ethical fashion through increasing their Made in the USA products, using digital printing to reduce and
Of a Kind aims to support and
rag & bone prides itself in
People Tree has been sustainable for
promote
the
26 years and counting, making them
on-the-rise
fashion
time-honored
techniques
designers, and cater to those who
of
local
a pioneer in ethical fashion. They
shop as much for the experience
manufacturers at some of the
purchase the majority of their Fair
as they do for the product.
oldest factories in the country.
Trade products from marginalized
supremely
skilled,
producer groups in the developing
water and wastage, and using
Patagonia’s
mission
statement
revolves around building the best product, causing no unnecessary harm, and using business to inspire
Reformation’s mission is to lead
and implement solutions to the
and inspire a sustainable way to be
environmental crisis.
fashionable. They source sustainable fabrics and vintage garments while
world and use natural resources
certified organic cotton fabric.
incorporating
throughout production to promote environmentally
responsible
wardrobe of the future, one that is timeless and will get a lot of wear through transitional pieces. Many
of the environmental impact of conventional fashion. PACT is committed to organic cotton to minimize their impact on the environment.
of their pieces are made from recycled fabrics.
practices
make beautiful styles at a fraction
initiatives for a sustainable future. ADAY sets out to create the
better
throughout their supply chain to
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
54 // DEFINE
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
PROBLEM STATEMENT More than 10.5 million tons of clothes end up in landfills in the USA each year, and even natural fibers may not break down easily. Customers are looking beyond price and performance when comparing products. As consumer awareness grows alongside the growth of social media, consumers are expecting more from the brands they buy from. They are demanding clothes that not only look good, but that are also ethical and sustainable.
H&M, allows customers to bring unwanted garments — which will be transformed to recycled textile fibers for new products — since 2013. The company aims to have "zero garments going to landfill." Patagonia also recycles and sells used Patagonia products in its stores. Moreover, Bluesign helps to conserve valuable resources, minimizing environmental impact and to
drive innovations. In this spirit, the fashion industry will be able to guarantee sustainability to both consumers and environment. The desire for new clothes is something that may be impossible to change Real. helps brands and consumers do the right thing easier with minimal use of virgin materials, water, energy and chemicals through our multiplatform interventions, including the Real. Label, Real. Instagram, Real. Pop-up Truck and Real. Website. Our hope is to help integrate organizations, manufactures, brands, and consumers to learn about and purchase ethical products, and be proud of themselves as ethical suppliers and consumers.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
56 // DISCOVER
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
DISCOVER • Experts interviews • Case studies #1, 2, 3, 4, 5 • Survey responses • Design criteria • Personas/ day in the life #1, 2, 3
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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EXPERTS INTERVIEWS These interviews aim to help understand how consumers consumer and how brands act on being more sustainable and take actions to help environment.
1
Caroline McCauley
(Parsons Instructor, Fashion Studies)
2
Laurence Li
(Founder of Laurence & Chico)
3
Maurice D. Al-Haddad (Parsons Instructor, BBA)
4
Vera Wang
(Founder of WG Empire)
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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INTERVIEW #1 OF 4 Caroline McCauley
(Parsons Instructor, Fashion Studies) Brands get wrapped up in the movement and focus on selling the clothes rather than
actually adhering to the principle of sustainability. I don’t think sustainable ethical fashion brands are accessible just because of the advertising. Some brands might just be following trends. Moving forward there should be a bigger focus on how a consumer consumes and moving from there. (Quality > Quantity)
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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INTERVIEW #2 OF 4 Laurence Li @laurenceandchico
(Founder and Designer of Laurence & Chico) I dont think fast fashion brands are ever going to be sustainable, it’s the opposite of sustainable. I think when you walk into a store, sustainable clothing are probably accessible when you LOOK for them. Everyone’s pretty aware about sustainability
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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INTERVIEW #3 OF 4 Maurice D. Al-Haddad (Parsons Instructor, BBA)
brands are working on sustainability but I don’t know if anyone is actually “sustainable.” Fast
fashion
Sustainability is becoming more and more accessible but it’s difficult because each company defines sustainability as something different. People are becoming more aware so we need to work on big companies.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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INTERVIEW #4 OF 4 Vera Wang
(Awarded first Chinese influencer/ Founder of WG Empire) Sustainable fashion is than in the past.
easier to access
now
People shop Fast Fashion because of its price point . Market sustainability through social media.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
CASE STUDIES These case studies were chosen to hep us understand consumer behaviors behind fashion consumption.
1
Eileen Fisher
2
Audrey Blue
3
Bluesign
4
5
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
Fair Wear Foundation (FWF)
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CASE STUDY #1 OF 5 Eileen Fisher Pros: Social consciousness department: mainly focus on human rights, sustainability of their products (bluesign standard) and women involvement in society (support nonprofits that help women). The brand's purpose is for education, and it is food for our society. Cons: Products are expensive and people would not invest large amount of money in these products. Opportunity: The company should raise more people’s social consciousness and enhance its brand value.
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CASE STUDY #2 OF 5 Audrey Blue Pros: Audrey Blue provides tips and quick steps of organizing wardrobes so that they can be more sustainable. Most importantly, Audrey Blue has introduced the Suit Project with the Suit Collection line sheet for consumers. This line sheet states out what styles, what is the fabric from, what colors and sizes do they offer. It tells consumers how the brand is carrying the core principles of environmental responsibility. Cons: It mainly promotes toxic-free Mighty Good underwear, which is made from organically grown, fair-trade cotton. At its website, there are only 11 items that are available for customers. Opportunity: Providing a line sheet with information is helpful and direct way to tell consumers how a piece of garment becomes what it is when it arrives on their hands. It is important for Audrey Blue to maintain its value, attracting more consumers’ attention.
Parsons School of Design // Integrative Design and Management // Spring 2018
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CASE STUDY #3 OF 5 Bluesign Pros: Bluesign helps to conserve valuable resources, to minimize environmental impact and to drive innovations. Industrial partners will in particular have to examine all their components and processes on the basis of clear principles. In this spirit the textile industry will be able to guarantee sustainability to both consumers and environment. Cons: At least 90 percent of the textile fabric must be bluesign® certified. Beyond that at least 30 percent of all components, such as zippers, buttons, and embroidery must be bluesign® The remaining maximum ten percent of textiles and 70 percent of components that are not bluesign® certified must fulfill the strict regulatory limits of the bluesign® criteria protection. Opportunity: Brands take responsibility for putting the bluesign® system into effect. Setting the highest standards regarding environmental and consumer protection means gaining security and sovereignty as well as respecting the client’s trust. As a bluesign system partner, the trade benefits from the confidence provided by this quality seal and improves its image as a responsibly operating market participant.
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CASE STUDY #4 OF 5 Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Pros: It’s applicable to all organically produced plantand animal-based natural fibers. Synthetically manufactured fibers made of regenerative raw materials such as viscose and lyocell, on the other hand, cannot be certified. Cons: No living wages are requested in the social standards. In a joint initiative the Global Standard gGmbH (GOTS) and Textile Exchange (TE) developed harmonised policies and templates for transaction and scope certificates. The templates unify layout, format and text of both certificate types among the different certifiers and standards. Opportunity: Poor labour conditions can only be solved through multi-faceted solutions. The FWF approach brings together the key components needed for sustainable change. It means companies work step-by-step to improve conditions in their supply
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CASE STUDY #5 OF 5 Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) Pros: Fair Wear Foundation works on the basis of the principle of supply chain responsibility. A brand selling clothes in Europe is in part responsible for both the labour conditions at its suppliers and for example on the plantations, and also for the environmental impact of that product. In recent years, the notion of supply chain responsibility has become increasingly accepted, by individual companies as well as the fashion world in general. Cons: The FWF doesn’t issue any certificates; one can only become a member and then have the option to advertise with the FWF logo. There are currently 121 members. In principle, any brand can become a member that aligns itself with the tenets described above and is working on their implementation. Takeaway: The Foundation has a worker and third-party complaints mechanism to address problems in a member company's supply chain. FWF’s complaints procedure serves as a safety net. FWF places complaints handlers in countries where FWF is active. This ensures that workers making products for FWF affiliates can safely and fairly seek redress for violations of the FWF code.
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SURVEY TAKEAWAY Our survey includes 13 questions and 18 people have answered our survey questions. People who answered our survey show their awareness of social and environmental impacts of fast fashion, and most of them choose to consume ethically. They believe people buying fast fashion is because fast fashion is trendy and cheap. They do not show any interests in being educated about the source of the materials or any backstory of the piece of clothing they are buying. Responders believe social media and celebrities are the main influencers of fast fashion, and these two main influencers will definitely be the motivations for people to buy fast fashion less frequently.
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DESIGN CRITERIA 1. Promotion and education of socially conscious fashion 2. Promotion and education of sustainable fashion 3. Make use of social media as a tool to educate people about fast fashion
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DAY IN THE LIFE Our day in the life scenarios helped us to understand behavior of our targeted audience and to enhance our personas.
1
Olivia Smith
2
Joanna Bell
3
Nina Anders
4
Lauren Edwards
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DAY IN THE LIFE #1 OF 4 Olivia Smith AGE: 23 years old WORK: A business major undergraduate student in UCLA FAMILY: Single LOCATION: Los Angeles, California FRUSTRATIONS:
• • • •
Budget for shopping Time management (between school and leisure time) The future after graduation Getting fat.
HOBBIES:
• • • • •
Online Shopping Traveling Buying Magazines Photographing Fitness
They finish shopping and then go to Lady M for afternoon tea near the shopping mall Green tea crepe is their favourite dessert. During afternoon tea time,
Olivia wakes up.
She eats a strawberry pancake as breakfast and puts on clothes and finishes her make-up.
9:00 am
9:30 am
She goes shopping with her friend, Lily. She realizes she just learned about sustainable systems in class, and she decides to to choose both fancy and sustainable things to buy
10:30 am
11:00 am
they talk about sustainability, for example, which brands are using sustainable materials? They meet at a downtown shopping mall They go to Zara, H&M, and many fast fashion brands and think about sustainable materials.
Olivia talks about what she has done today to her family during dinner. She browses fashion websites such as Vogue and Elle to see what are some new trends for these seasons.
Lily has a dinner plan with her family, after they finish the afternoon tea, they all go back home. 3:00 pm
5:00 pm 6:00 pm
12:00 am
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DAY IN THE LIFE #2 OF 4 Joanna Bell AGE: 45 years old WORK: House wife FAMILY: Married (1 son and 1 daughter) LOCATION: Chicago, Illinois
HOBBIES:
FRUSTRATIONS:
• Saving Money • Maintaining a healthy relationship with her husband • Getting old • Educating her children in general and also about sustainability
• Travelling with her family • Having a little talk with her children every day • Buying clothes for her family
She enjoys her online shopping time. She
Joanna wakes up, and starts browsing her phone.
she drives her children to school and returns home.
She goes to supermarket and buys vegetable, meat and some apples. She needs to prepare the dinner for her family.
She prepares breakfast for her children. She has eggs, waffles and milk for breakfast.
6:30 am
finds out many brands are promoting sustainability today. Therefore, She looks at brands like Patagonia and Eileen Fisher and uses these brands as reference to educate her children. She wants her children know more about sustainability.
6:45 am
7:30 am
11:00 am
She takes a shower and is ready for bed. Before getting to bed, she browses non-profit organization websites and prepares for the next little talk with her children.
Joanna’s family has their dinner time and Joanna talks about what she learns from sustainability with fashion. 1:00 pm
6:00 pm
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DAY IN THE LIFE #3 OF 4 Nina Anders AGE: 27 years old WORK: Fashion Blogger FAMILY: Single LOCATION: Manhattan, New York
GOALS:
FRUSTRATIONS:
• Finding the perfect outfit for everyone • Awkward staring by others while taking outfit photos • Does not really recognize many sustainable fashion
• B e c o m e a f a m o u s fashion blogger and attract more followers • Ma ke rel at i onsh ip s w it h e x i st i ng f a s h i on brands
Nina meets Kitty at Topshop. They look around at Topshop, Zara and Bershka. There are many clothes on sales at this time. They talk about how
Today is Saturday, and Nina wakes up late.
Nina is a fashion blogger and enjoys shopping, looking for fancy clothing, and posting them on social media. She tries at least four outfits before doing her make up. She plans to hand out with her friend Kitty at Soho today.
12:00 pm
12:30 pm
She starts doing her make up by using Mac, Tom Ford, Dior and Nars cosmetics.
1:15pm
She leaves home at 2pm and gets some food on her way to Soho. She goes to Sweetgreen and gets a salad so that she can keep her weight.
2:00pm
3:00 pm
these fast fashion brands handle surplus sales clothes. Nina thinks this topic is very important and interesting and she decides to post more about this situation.
They take some photos in front of Dior store because there is a good street view. After that, they go to dinner around Soho to The Ditch. They order salad, salmon, fresh juice and pizzas.
5:00 pm
8:00 pm
Nina feels exhausted and decides to get to bed early tonight.
They both go back home. Nina posts pictures she took with Kitty today on social media and starts to think about what name she should use for today’s posts.
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DAY IN THE LIFE #4 OF 4 Lauren Edwards AGE: 62 years old WORK: Business School Professor FAMILY: Married LOCATION: Manhattan, New York
GOALS:
• Find ethical brands but also in good design • T o r e c e i v e m o r e fashion news not from social media but from things she can see at daily life
FRUSTRATIONS:
• Finding designer brands that are sustainable and in a reasonable price • Don't have an Instagram account and might miss some latest trend news
Lauren’s phone alarm wakes her up. She first checks on her email, and her eyes are caught by sale promotion from Eileen Fisher, and it is only $329. She decides to get it after her first class ends. Lauren gets up and finishes her salad and a cup of skim milk.
9:00 am
10:30 am
Lauren arrives at subway station, waiting the train come. She keeps checking on her phone to see if there are some other new dresses that she may like from Eileen Fisher.
12:00pm
Lauren finishes her teaching, and goes to Eileen Fisher. Lauren finds the exact same dress and try it on at the fitting room.
Lauren shows the photo to her daughter. Her daughter show her more brands that are both sustainable but also in a good price.
Lauren takes a photo of herself wearing the dress and decides to ask her daughter about the outfit after she gets home.
Lauren is ready for bed, and she picks up her phone again. She lies on her bed, browsing the websites that her daughter showd her during dinner until she feels tired.
Lauren arrives home, and prepares for the dinner.
3:00pm
3:15 pm
5:00 pm
6:00 pm
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DEVELOP • Mission statement • Initial system map • Prototype concepts #1, 2, 3, 4
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MISSION STATEMENT Real. is to promote and educate consumers who are unaware of sustainable fashion brands. The label, "Real.", that we design is going to be a fashion icon on clothes, and acts as an approval for sustainable clothing as well as for helping consumers know this piece of clothing is made ethically. Throughout this project, we hope this label can be a fashion trend, more and more companies can be eligible and willing to put this label on their clothes; meanwhile, when people purchase these clothes with the label on, they will be proud of themselves as an ethical consumer.
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INITIAL SYSTEM MAP
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PROTOTYPE CONCEPTS Whilie developing a prototype, it gives us the opportunity to really tap into our creativity, using those skills that inspired our invention idea in the first place. Our prototypes go from a simple label that printed on clothes to a complex website introducing our service to audience, as well as having a shoutout using Instagram to attract consumers. It is from here that we come up with our final idea that can be successfully and effectively convey a positive message to people around us.
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1
Real. RESPONSIBLE | ETHICAL | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
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3
Real. label
Instagram shoutout
We hope Real. label will become an iconic logo that represents ethical brand approval. When consumers see the label, they can immediately know this piece of clothing or accessory is made ethically.
We might look for fashion influencers to have a shoutout or post our brand concepts on their instagram accounts so that we can gain more followers on social platforms.
2
Billboard campaign Having a billboard campaign can help us with promoting our brand mission to more consumers. It tells people what four key elements of our brand pursues, "responsible, ethical, apparel, lifestyle".
4
Real. website We will design our brand website for consumers who want to know more about our company, service, and partnership. It provides more comprehensive information for ethical brands that would like to partner with us.
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DELIVER • • • • •
Real. campaign Real. system map Prototypes #1, 2, 3, 4 Short term goals Long term goals
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Real. CAMPAIGN Founded in 2018, Real. is a label that is designed as an approval for companies’ sustainable clothes and for promoting and educating consumers of their awareness of ethical clothing. With our tag, labeled brands show that they continuously improve the environmental performance and responsibly act towards people and environment. We promote fashion brands and help them turn into sustainable icons. Also, we use multi social media platforms to promote our brand and turn our logo into a fashion icon. We want to use the most innovative promotion way which is the pop truck instead of a brick & motor to catch their eye balls and promote our design concept. This website introduces our firm and educate consumers about our sustainable system and our ethical products that are partnered with ethical fashion brands. Consumers can get 10% discounts if purchase firectly throughout our webstie.
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Real. SYSTEM MAP promotion
promotion
Social Media
provide service
Brands
provide service
Companies Manufactures
Instagram Facebook Online shopping web Social influences To promote our brand and turn our logo into a fashion icon. They help our brand to connect other marketing channels and streamline the approach. It is a way to do this is to use and follow hashtags of the brand with our tag, combine with products and related keywords to search for what consumers are discussing.
Chemical Suppliers
Fashion brands (such as Nike, Puma, H&M, Zara, etc. Small brands(not well-known With our tag, labeled brands show that they continuously improve the environmental performance and responsibly act towards people and environment. We promote fashion brands and help them turn into sustainable icons.
Blue Sign Global Organic Textile Standard Fair Wear Foundation We work with similar types of companies as partners. (Blue Sign has its own technology that can produce sustainable products; GOTS has a sustainable textile standard; Fair Wear Foundation has existing customers )
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Real. FINAL PROTOTYPES Founded in 2018, REAL is a label that is designed as an approval for companies’ sustainable clothes and for promoting and educating consumers of their awareness of ethical clothing.
1
Real. Label
2
Real. Instagram
3
Real. Pop-up Truck
4
Real. Website
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PROTOTYPE #1 OF 4
Real. Label
MATT & NAT: Upcycle Material Usage All of their bags are made with vegan materials only, including recycled bicycle tires and rubber. In fact, their handbag linings are made with 100% recycled plastic bottles! They also have deep partnerships with the factories who create their beautiful products, and hold them to the highest safety standards.
EVERLANE: Ethical Factory Partnership They spend months finding the best factories around the world, and then they build strong personal relationships with factory owners to ensure their factory's integrity and to maintain ethical production practices at every step of the
Eileen Fisher: Certified Dyeing: Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX速 The Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX速 protects consumer health by testing dyed fabrics and yarns for harmful chemicals, including formaldehyde, pesticides and allergenic dyes.
Sustainable Fiber: Tencel速 Tencel速 starts with responsibly harvested trees. The fiber is produced with near zero waste--99.5% of all water and solvents are recycled. Safer for workers, better for the environment.
Transparency They believe customers have the right to know what their products cost to make and where they were made. They reveal their true costs and share the factory and production stories behind each piece of clothing.
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PROTOTYPE #2 OF 4
Real. Instagram Instagram is one of the best platforms for brands to partner with influencers on to reach new audiences quickly. In fact, it’s the best performing channel for social action. It removes the barriers of traditional
advertising and helps us save budget of advertising. Through our instagram account, we can introduce our brand Real. to new audiences via a more trustworthy source, my influencer partner. When an influencer recommends a product or service on their instagram, it can come across as an authentic recommendation from a friend. This is a great way to raise awareness about our label and campaign. Let more people know us!
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PROTOTYPE #3 OF 4
Real. Pop-up truck Instead of a traditonal billboard campaign, we decided to do a pop-up truck because we are doing fashion and our long-term goal is to educate people about sustainable fashion, we want to use the most innovative promotion way which is the pop truck to catch their eye
balls and promote our design concept.
We believe that driving pop trucks around different cities in a country can provide us the best chance to interact with people more directly than holding a brick & motor. Our pop up truck will use green energy. And we will exhibit and sell sustainable fashion pieces that have our logo in the truck and stop at shopping districts like downtown SoHo in NYC, Newbury street in Boston and Rodeo drive & Beverly Hills in LA.
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PROTOTYPE #3 OF 4
Real. Pop-up truck in Los Angeles
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PROTOTYPE #3 OF 4
Real. Pop-up truck in New York
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PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website
This website contains a brief description of our firm's aim, which is to promote and educate consumers with sustainable fashion brands. It tells audiences how
Real. works, how people can join as partners, and who we are currently partnering with. We
introduce our pop-up truck project. Last but not least, we have a shop page that people can get a 10% off discount if they shop directly on our website.
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PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website - Home Page
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PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website- Home Page
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PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website- About Page
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PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website - Services Page
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DEFINE DISCOVER| ETHICAL | DEVELOP | DELIVER Real.|RESPONSIBLE | APPARAL | LIFESTYLE
DEFINE | DISCOVER | DEVELOP | DELIVER
PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website - Services Page
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PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website - Services Page
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PROTOTYPE #4 OF 4
Real. Website - Shop Page
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SHORT TERM GOALS In the short term, we would like to achieve the following goals: At the beginning, we will present our idea to the companies, bluesign, GOTS and Fair Wear Organization. We would like to start our business and make partner relationships with four well-known fashion companies. We hope that we can have a good start with collaborating with companies which already have many experiences on this industry, and they can also help us build a good image and introduce to others.
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LONG TERM GOALS In the long term, we would like to achieve the following goals: We hope that we can build a strong presence on multiple social media platforms and grow social media followers to help more unknown ethical fashion brands. We hope the number can reach to 2m because many not so well-known companies may not have enough followers to promote their brands, and they need us to help them. These days, people get much of their information solely from what pops up in their daily social media feeds. This is a good way to help us increase our brand awareness and recognition, in order to make more companies trust us and make a partner relationship with our company. Our company will obtain new customers and keep current ones.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY INTRODUCTION: https://news-media.stanford.edu/wp-content/uploads/ http://firstview.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/ http://livinginmyownworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/running-to-the-future-eckhart-tolle.jpg, https://www.google.com/ DEFINE: http://www.wri.org/sites/default/files/uploads/polyester-production-carbon-intensive.png https://www.fueloyal.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Discover-10-Biggest-Truck-WarrantyProblems-650x365.jpg, https://www.google.com https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/53/H%26M-Logo.svg/1200px-H%26Mhttps://qz.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rtr3b0yi-cropped.jpg?quality=80&strip=all&w=3200, https://qz.com/380055/hms-sustainability-report-hides-the-unsustainable-reality-of-fast-fashion/ https://www.gemfind.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Fashion1-1024x682.jpg http://www.wri.org/sites/default/files/uploads/2017_Blog_Fast_Fashion_6.png http://capechamber.co.za/wp-content/uploads/cache/images/2018/03/The-mind-of-the-consumerand-the-power-of-contrast-1/The-mind-of-the-consumer-and-the-power-of-contrast-1-3559914212. jpg https://modakariyeri.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/1472171979638.jpg, https://modakariyeri. com/geri-donusum-icin-baski-artiyor/ http://www.wri.org/sites/default/files/uploads/2700l-water-cotton-shirt.png https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/b/two-happy-women-shopping-bags-young-walkingstreet-35157911.jpg https://i.pinimg.com/564x/37/98/af/3798af80c8d3a6e55bbd93bf1b98fe3f.jpg, https://www.pinterest. com/ https://qz.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/ap122794590132.jpg?quality=80&strip=all&w=3200, https://qz.com/380055/hms-sustainability-report-hides-the-unsustainable-reality-of-fast-fashion/ DISCOVER: https://www.eileenfisher.com/ns/images/company/MeetEileen_main.jpg https://about.lindex.com/en/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2015/05/GOTS.jpg https://cdn.pixabay.com/photo/2017/10/07/06/39/fashion-2825637_960_720.jpg https://www.fueloyal.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Discover-10-Biggest-Truck-WarrantyProblems-650x365.jpg https://www.siegelklarheit.de/static/custom_standards/76_custom_standard.png http://publicdomainq.net/images/201701/26s/publicdomainq-0005264eiw.jpg http://m.wsj.net/video/20170208/020817mansionfrankel/020817mansionfrankel_1280x720.jpg https://www.gemfind.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Fashion1-1024x682.jpg https://static1.squarespace.com/static/52569c52e4b00705c7fe96b5/t/554db1ece4b06870344b98 7e/1431155199089/? https://www.scoopstore.be/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/2015_fairwearfoundation_ codeoflabourpractices_icons.jpg
http://www.fairwear.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/FWF_homepage.png https://fiu-assets-2-syitaetz61hl2sa.stackpathdns.com/static/use-media-items/29/28104/full-1154x775/56701aa5/ EF_April_InStyle-Spring-2011-AdrGlsy-web.jpeg?resolution=0 https://qz.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/ap122794590132.jpg?quality=80&strip=all&w=3200, https://qz. com/380055/hms-sustainability-report-hides-the-unsustainable-reality-of-fast-fashion/ https://s-i.huffpost.com/gen/1623986/images/o-WOMEN-LAUGHING-facebook.jpg http://www.global-standard.org/images/stories/GOTS_harmonisation.JPG http://www.fair-t.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/fair-wear-.jpg https://static1.squarespace.com/static/52569c52e4b00705c7fe96b5/t/54783f78e4b00987aedfe920/1417166712628/ https://www.bluesign.com/inc/tcache/inc-template-industry-images-header-sub-bluesign-system-rgb-716x340jpg717x3401394541450bluesign-system_RGB_716x340.jpg DEVELOP: https://www.planbox.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/buildonsuccess.jpg https://staffingpowerusa.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/shutterstock_48719776.jpg https://fthmb.tqn.com/N6nxOB2prJRALt1_wYP4TpCxYc0=/1255x837/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/MissionStatement4-56a DELIVER: https://www.quickbase.com/ http://defendernetwork.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/page_5_social_media.jpg http://www.progressminerals.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/partnership-img.jpg htto://www.eileenfisher.com http://www.patagonia.com http://www.peopletree.com http://www.rag-bone.com http://www.everlane.com
Social Media // Social Impact // Social Good
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