LIVINGJAPAN Vol. 7 by Robotag Media

VOL.7

SIGHTSEEING IN YOKOHAMA CASE, A NEW STYLE OF TOKYO LIVING ART ON THE WATER LUXURY APARTMENTS IN TOKYO JAPAN’S CRAFT BEER RENAISSANCE

THIS ISSUE

Publisher - Lloyd Cunningham Editor in Chief - Kelly Wetherille Designer - R. Paul Seymour Marketing Dir. - Pia von Waldau Contributors - Paul McInnes, Tomonori Saito, Elisabeth Lambert, Stephen Parker Photographers - Nathan Hosken, Marco Lüthy

Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the content within this publication, some information, such as contact numbers or addresses, may change without notice. Robotag Media accepts no responsibility in the event of such changes causing any misinformation within this publication.

6 Tokyo Now A quick look at some of the city’s newest shopping, architecture and sightseeing venues

8 Dining & Entertainment A round-up of Tokyo’s best craft beer and specialty bars shows there’s something for everyonel

10 The Residential Areas of Tokyo A comprehensive guide to the city’s residential areas, from Chiyoda to Setagaya and Yokohama

26 Case A new residential building in Shibuya’s Kamiyamacho district offers a new style of Tokyo living

30 Guide to Renting Property Everything you need to know about renting an apartment in Tokyo

34 Art & Design BankArt Studio NYK provides plenty of opportunities to create and view art, right on Yokohama’s waterfront i

38 Guide to Buying Property All the details and procedures related to buying properties in Tokyo

48 Craft Beer Special A recent surge in the popularity of craft beer has led to a whole slew of new bars and brewers

52 Sightseeing A selection of both well-known and off-thebeaten-path places to explore in Tokyo and Yokohama

71 Reference Guide & Directory Some useful information to help both newcomers and long-term residents get settled in Tokyo

Cover photo courtesy of Tokyo Station Marunouchi Building.

Roppongi Hills When this “vertical garden city” opened in 2003, it was Japan’s largest private development, and it set a high bar for similar projects that would follow. Encompassing luxury apartments, an office tower, numerous shops and restaurants, a nine-screen cinema, a renowned modern art museum, and ample green space, it remains a popular hangout for hip locals and tourists to this day. To commemorate the tenth anniversary of its flagship complex, developer Mori Building undertook large-scale renovations earlier this year. Public spaces were given a more inviting look, while new or renovated shops and restaurants provided freshness. New tenants include such global fashion brands as Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Issa and Bottega Veneta. Address: 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-6406-6000 (Information desk) Nearest station: Roppongi www.roppongihills.com/en

TOKYO NOW What’s New & Notable Around Town

Palace Hotel Tokyo Occupying prime real estate alongside the moat of the Imperial Palace grounds, this luxury hotel opened in May 2012 following a ¥90 billion construction project. Its 290 rooms are beautifully designed and decorated in a modern Japanese style, and the hotel prides itself on showcasing the very best of Japanese hospitality and service. The property also includes several restaurants, serving world-class French, Japanese and Chinese cuisine, an underground shopping arcade with luxury stores, and an Evian spa, which is only the second such spa in the world outside of France. In March, the magazine Travel & Leisure named Palace Hotel Tokyo the best new hotel with 100 rooms or more in its annual design awards. Address: 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3211-5211 Nearest station: Otemachi en.palacehoteltokyo.com

6 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 67 2012 2013

Isetan Shinjuku

Oak Omotesando

One of Tokyo’s coolest and most popular department stores underwent several months of renovations before officially reopening to the public this March. The new women’s department is billed as a “fashion museum,” with several areas being used to showcase styles by new, up-and-coming designers in pop-up shops that last just a week or two. Ryuichi Sakamoto was hired to do the soundtrack that shoppers will hear while browsing, and unlike most department stores in Japan, the brands are now categorized according to lifestyle, rather than target age range or price points. Finally, the store also added a place on each floor — whether it be a cafe or juice bar — where customers can meet up with friends or simply relax after a day or shopping.

Much like the Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments, which were replaced by Omotesando Hills in 2005, the former Hanae Mori building was an iconic landmark on one of Tokyo’s most prominent shopping boulevards. That Kenzo Tange-designed building was demolished in 2010, and its successor opened this April. The modern glass building houses several floors of office space, as well as retail shops and restaurants. The two prime spots on the ground floor are occupied by luxury fashion brands Coach and Emporio Armani. The interior of the former was designed by OMA and utilizes different shaped glass blocks to display products, while the latter includes a posh café. The building is also home to a store selling Nespresso coffee machines.

Address: 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3352-1111 Nearest station: Shinjuku-Sanchome www.isetan.co.jp

Address: 3-6-1 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo Nearest station: Omotesando www.oakomotesando.com

Kabuki-za

Tokyo Midtown

This iconic Japanese theater, located in the upscale shopping district of Ginza, has been entertaining audiences with kabuki performances since 1889. It has gone through a few incarnations over the years; in 1921 the original wooden building was destroyed by a fire and was mid-way through reconstruction when the devastating 1923 Kanto earthquake struck. The rebuilt theater, designed in a traditional Japanese style, was remodeled in 1950 with up-todate features such as electric lights. In 2010 the building was demolished once again to make way for a newer and safer theater, which was designed by Kengo Kuma and Associates and opened this April. For more information, see Living Japan’s feature on the new Kabuki-za on page 60.

Completed in 2007 on the site of a former Japanese military training ground, this multi-use complex aimed to rival Roppongi Hills, its neighbor down the road. It also includes Tokyo’s tallest building, a tower that is home to the corporate offices of Uniqlo, Fujifilm and Konami, as well as the Ritz-Carlton hotel. Like Roppongi Hills, Midtown underwent a large renovation project this year, officially opening in April. Many existing stores were remodeled, expanded or moved to different locations within the development. The Muji store, for example, is now much larger than its predecessor and stocks are larger variety of projects. New to the shop list are Italian luxury accessory brand Valextra and California-inspired casual retailer Ron Herman.

Address: 4-12-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3541-3131 Nearest station: Higashi-Ginza www.kabuki-za.co.jp

Address: 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3475-3100 Nearest station: Roppongi www.tokyo-midtown.com/en

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

Craft Beer & Specialty Bars In Tokyo, there is a bar or restaurant for just about every niche imaginable. Recently, a surge in the popularity of craft beer and specialty alcohol has led to the opening of several great new places to relax and enjoy a drink with friends or coworkers. Whether your poison is tequila, whisky, or a hard-tofind brew, there is bound to be a bar in Tokyo that has just what you’re looking for.

Biervana

Zoetrope

For bottled beers, head to Biervana in Akasaka, which lives up to its name with 99 import bottles in the fridge and eight draughts. With a 10-meter 3D screen and an extensive food menu, Biervana is also a great venue for events or private parties.

In a best-ever showing for Japanese whisky, Suntory scooped the gold awards for best single malt and best blended at the 2011 World Whisky Awards. Let there be no doubt: Japanese whisky is a massive force in the whisky world, and the best place to acquaint yourself with it is Zoetrope, a Shinjuku bar that boasts around 400 styles of domestic malts.

Address: Prudential Tower 1F, 2-13-10 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo

Address: 7-10-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3363-0162

Tel: 03-3502-6500 www.biervana.com

Agave

Artica

Tafia

Roppongi isn’t short of tequila, but if you want the good stuff, go to Agave. You’ll find 400 bottles of mostly premium agave distillates, and a team that knows their distinctions and characteristics. High rollers should try a top-end Don Julio, and low rollers will find the Orendain Olitas Reposado to be a great value. Whatever you order, pair it with a spicy sangrita chaser.

For those who thought vodka makes for an unlikely specialist bar, how about bottled water? At Artica, customers can choose from 48 varieties of the drink they usually get for free, plus a handful of whiskies, beers and all the regular bar offerings. The bar also offers whisky and water pairing suggestions, which work a lot better than one might expect.

There are five big rum bars in town: Tafia in Nishi Azabu, Screwdriver in Kichijoji, Bar Julep in Ikejiri Ohashi (what is it with rum bars named after non-rum cocktails?), King Rum in Ikebukuro, and Bar Lamp in Ginza. If you only have time for one, make it Tafia, where owner Chie Tato can tell you more about the drink than you would ever need to know. The bar stocks around 300 varieties, as well as a selection of cigars, which is Tato’s other passion.

Address: 7-15-10 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Address: 2F, 1-41-3 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Address: 2-15-14 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Tel: 03-3497-0229

Tel: 03-3320-3217

Tel: 03-3407-2219

www.agave.jp

www.artica.co.jp

www.tafia.jp

8 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

Popeye

Brimmer Beer Box

Harajuku Taproom

It’s not just the 70 beers on tap that makes Popeye such a legendary drinking spot. It’s also the selection: mainly Japanese microbrews, covering the spectrum from pilsners to barley wines. It’s also the obsessive way that owner Tatsu Aoki serves them, with maniacal attention to temperature and glass shape. If you want a seat at Popeye, get there early, as it’s often full by 6pm.

The Brimmer Beer Box is the only bar in Tokyo where all of Brimmer Brewing’s beers are always available. There are always four brews on tap: Golden Ale, Pale Ale, Porter, and a regularly rotating seasonal special, and all are priced at just ¥500. This unique beer stand is conveniently located near Omotesando inside a converted shipping container, which adds to the experience.

The Harajuku Taproom is a distinctly Japanesestyle pub that brings to mind an izakaya or yakitori restaurant. There are 15 taps pouring a variety of Baird Beer and two hand-pumps pouring Baird Beer in Real Ale style (including the year-round Harajuku Ale). The food consists of light izakaya fare, creating the perfect combination of Japanese pub cuisine, culture, and flavorful craft beer.

Address: 2-18-7 Ryogoku, Sumida-Ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3633-2120

Address: 3-8-34 Minami Aoyama Minato-ku, Tokyo

Address: No-surrender Bldg. 2F, 1-20-13 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

www.lares.dti.ne.jp/~ppy

www.brimmerbeerbox.com

Tel: 03-6438-0450 bairdbeer.com/en/taproom/harajuku-taproom

Bloody Doll

Craft Beer Market

Beer Horn Akasaka

No, it doesn’t all taste the same. In Ginza’s Bloody Doll, vodka fanatic Hiroshi Tsuchiya can take you through an array of flavors equal to anything you’ll find in any specialist bar overseas, from pungent Asian vodkas to wheaty Russian brands and Polish versions that reek of rye. There is also a staggering range of flavored vodkas, including an impressive wasabi version.

This popular bar ffers a wide selection of mostly Japanese craft beers (30-odd Japanese varieties are on tap) at ¥780 per US pint. Expect to find names including Baird, Aqula, Iwate Kura and Kinshachi alongside more mainstream brews such as Asahi Super Dry. An impressive selection of food is served in tapas-sized portions. It’s a very popular spot, so reservations are strongly recommended, especially if you’re planning on heading over on a Friday evening.

Beer Horn offers a selection of Otaru Beer, which is authentic German-style beer brewed in Hokkaido by German braumiester Johannes Braun. It uses all-natural ingredients and traditional family recipes that follow German standards. For a more festive experience, the beer is served in beer horns that come in medium (400ml) and large (700ml) at some of the best prices in Tokyo. A tasty selection of food cooked in a stone oven included sausages, fire-roasted chicken, and grilled sirloin steak.

Address: 2F, 7-4-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Address: 1-23-3 Nishi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Address: Dobashi Bldg B1F, 3-17-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Tel: 03-3289-8155

Tel: 03-6206-1603

Tel: 03-3568-4690

www.craftbeermarket.jp

www.beerhorn.jp

YOKOHAMA TOKYO’S NEIGHBOR ON THE BAY Yokohama is the second largest city in Japan with a population of over three million, and a major tourist destination in its own right. Located just across the Tama River from Tokyo, Yokohama is fast becoming a popular area for foreign companies and residents. It is less than half an hour south of Tokyo by train, making it an ideal location for anyone wanting to live outside central Tokyo and enjoy a more reasonable cost of living. Yokohama also offers all the amenities of an international city with very convenient access to all the major business districts in central Tokyo, including Marunouchi, Shinagawa, Roppongi and Shinjuku.

A BRIEF HISTORY Yokohama is of particular historical significance as it was Japan’s first major port to open to international trade at the end of the Edo period. It was just a small fishing village at the time, but soon found itself playing a major role in one of the biggest

RECREATION & SHOPPING Yokohama is well known among expats and tourists alike for its sprawling Chinatown district, which is home to any number of unique shops and delicious restaurants, drawing large crowds throughout the year. The Minato Mirai 21 complex is another popular destination on Yokohama’s waterfront. Originally a large shipping yard with brick warehouses, it has been developed into a city center with a long stretch of shopping centers, hotels, amusement parks and even relaxation spas with hot springs. Sky Garden, at the top of Landmark Tower, is the second highest observatory in the country, and the best place to enjoy a view of the Yokohama skyline. The city also has some beautiful natural scenery. Sankeien is the most historic and famous of all Zen gardens in Yokohama.

This spacious garden is surrounded by some elegant and historically significant buildings, including a feudal lord’s residence, old-fashioned teahouses, and a majestic pagoda belonging to Tomyoji Temple. Yamashita Park is Yokohama’s promenade, stretching 750 meters along the bay, with wide green spaces and a path that runs right along the water.

THE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS As Yokohama quickly became a center of international trade at the end of the Edo period, the foreign population grew quite rapidly. Chinese residents gathered around what is now Chinatown, and Western traders took up residence in the nearby Yamate area, which was also called “The Bluff” due to its position in the hills above the harbor. The hilly residential areas of Yamate still feature parks and other places of interest today. Running parallel to the Nakamura River, the Motomachi shopping street is famous, as it was the first shopping street in Japan for foreign goods. It still maintains some of its history today, with high-end fashion boutiques, cafes, and restaurants that cater to both residents and visitors.

Central Whole Sale Market

Yokohama Bay Brige Metropolitan Expressway

To Shinagawa / Shibuya

To ShinYokohama

To Haneda

shifts in Japan’s modern history. After many years of isolation, Japan opened up to the world, and the importation of Western goods grew rapidly. Today, Yokohama remains a strategic city for import and export of a vast array of products.

Water -Bus

Rinko Park

Nissan Head

Yokohama Sta.

Minato Mirai 21 Central District

Keihin kyuko Line.

So Ro JR To utet ute ka s ido u Lin 1 e. Lin e

Minatomirai

Osanbashi Aka-Renga Yokohama Yokohama Yokohama Queen’s Square Park Shin International World Porters NYK Hikawamaru yam Museum of Art Yokohama Passenger ashit Mi Minatomirai Sta. Shinko-cho a Ram na Terminal Yokohama p to The Landmark Mi Cosmoworld Tower rai Yokohama Yamashita cho Ramp Ra Yamashita Park NYK Maritime Customs mp Sail Training Ship Museum Yokohama Yokohama Kenmin Hall Mu Nippon Maru Ro nic Silk Museum Marine Doll Osaragi Jiro ute ipa Kanagawa Tower Museum KishaMichi Yokohama Archives l Su 1 Harbor View Park Memorial Prefectural bw 6 of History Museum ay JR Government Motomachi-Cyukagai Sta. Bashamichi Sta. Nihon-odori Sta. Blu Kanagawa Sa Yokohama ku eL Yokohama Int’l Museum of Minatomirai Line rag ine Japan Foreign General School ich Modern Port Opening Newspaper Cemetery Iwasaki Museum Literature oS Sa Memorial Hall ta. Museum ku Yamate Museum Kanagawa China town rag Kamonyama Park Motomachi Prefectural Museum ich Ehrismann Residence oS Park of Cultural History Yokohama Yokohama Park ta. Kanagawa City Hall Prefectural Music Hall Motomachi St. Maur Int’l School Yokohama Stadium Yokohama Kannai Sta. Noge-cho Yamate Catholic Noh Theater To Honmoku Church JR Kannai Sta. Yamate Park Basha-michi

Tobe-cho

(National Convention Hall ofYokohama)

Yokohama Park Ramp Yokohama City Central Library Nogeyama Park

10 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

Hinodecho Sta.

JR Ishikawa Cho Sta.

Diplomat’s House

Yamate Italian garden Isezaki-cho Isezaki-chojamachi Sta.

To JR Yamate Sta.

MINATO MIRAI STATION

LANDMARK TOWER

QUICK AREA GUIDE Type of Housing 1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom ••••

Monthly Rent Rating

CHINA TOWN

RECOMMENDED SPOTS

YOKOHAMA

HARD ROCK CAFE YOKOHAMA In Japan, it is considered improper to eat while walking around or on the go. Customs and etiquette are what the Hard Rock Cafe Yokohama is all about. Located next to the country’s tallest building, the Landmark Tower, the restaurant is the perfect place to grab a bite, even when time is tight. Here, diners can be seated comfortably and treat themselves to a scrumptious meal, all while soaking in the rich rock ‘n’ roll vibe. The vast array of rock memorabilia on the walls includes items from Elvis and Mick Jagger to Yoko Ono. So sit, back, relax and enjoy the cool atmoshere and great food, all in a convenient location.

Queen’s Tower A1F 2-3-1 Minatomirai Nishi-ku, Yokohama Tel: 045-682-5626 Hours: Restaurant: Mon-Sun 11:00AM - 11:00PM Store: Mon-Sun 10:00AM - 11:00PM

12 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

MEIJI SHRINE

OMOTESANDO

HARAJUKU STATION

HARAJUKU, OMOTESANDO & AOYAMA COSMOPOLITAN & ALTERNATIVE CULTURE

A BRIEF HISTORY

THE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS

In an area roughly forming a triangle, Harajuku, Omotesando, and Aoyama are associated by name and adjacency, yet each has unique characteristics. The areas of Aoyama and Omotesando are synonymous with world-class design, high-end fashion, elegant cuisine, and cosmopolitan café culture. The area around Omotesando-dori is a shopping and fashion lover’s paradise, with nearly every major fashion brand in the world represented. The intersection with Meiji-dori marks the beginning of Harajuku, famous for its weaving back streets and Takeshita-dori, where avant-garde fashions meet Tokyo’s alternative street style. Contrasting with Omotesando and Aoyama, Harajuku both accentuates and balances the area. Behind Harajuku station, Yoyogi Park and the densely wooded grounds of Meiji Jingu add some welcome serenity to the area.

The area now known as Aoyama owes its beginnings to Tadanori Aoyama, who planned and built aristocratic residences there during the Edo period. After the Meiji era, however, most of these stately mansions were converted into normal residences, and the remaining areas previously owned by the Aoyama family were transformed into Aoyama cemetery. Omotesando-dori was first built in 1920 and served as the main access to Meiji Jingu shrine— you can still find the stone lanterns on each side of the street marking the entrance. Two years after the Tokyo earthquake of 1923, the famous Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments were built in the spot that is now Omotesando Hills. The Harajuku area first became fashionable during the 1964 Tokyo Olympics due to its proximity to the Olympic gymnasium.

These neighborhoods are conveniently located on five major subway lines (Ginza, Hanzomon, Chiyoda, Fukutoshin and Oedo), as well as the JR Yamanote line. The four area stations are just a short commute to Shibuya, Shinjuku, Akasaka, Otemachi and many other major business districts, making this a prime location with easy access to just about anywhere in central Tokyo. Although these areas are predominantly commercial, there are many residential pockets as well. The perfect apartment or home may be difficult to find, as many units are older, more compact, or pricey. Families may have difficulty moving through the weekend congestion of shoppers, but it is very convenient for those with children who attend the nearby British School. Typically, the residential areas here offer one- to three-bedroom apartments and fewer spacious family units or single-family homes. This area has one of the highest concentrations of parks and public outdoor spaces, including Yoyogi Park, Meiji Jingu Gaien Park and Aoyama Cemetary. This makes it easy to get out and enjoy weekend activities, sports, and jogging. Kinokuniya and Peacock supermarkets, which stock a good selection of international foods, are conveniently located on Aoyama-dori close to Omotesando station.

14 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

QUICK AREA GUIDE Residential neighborhoods in Omotesando: Minami-Aoyama, Shibuya 4-Chome, Jingumae Aoyama: Minami-Aoyama, Kita-Aoyama Harajuku: Sendagaya 3-Chome, Jingumae

Type of Housing 1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom ••••

Monthly Rent Rating

GYRE SHOPPING CENTER

OMOTESANDO HILLS

YOYOGI PARK

RECOMMENDED SPOTS

OMOTESANDO

OMOTESANDO HILLS Designed by Tadao Ando, Omotesando Hills is a visually deceptive building that sits on a sliver of land along Omotesando-dori. The mall descends three levels below ground and is packed with 130 stylish boutiques and apartments. Omotesando Hills hosts seasonal events throughout the year including the popular Vogue magazine event Fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Night Out in the fall. It was designed by Tadao Ando, and also includes a residential block of 38 apartments.

PRADA The utterly stunning Prada building of bulging glass is one of the most iconic structures in Tokyo. Inside are several levels of white carpeted shopping areas and private fitting rooms. The popular tourist destination is worth a visit, even if only to window shop. Designed by Herzog & de Meuron, this is one of Aoyamaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sexier, organiclooking structures.

7-13-7 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-5785-0656 lounge-feria.jp

16 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

4-12-10 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3497-0310 www.omotesandohills.com/english

HIROO

ROPPONGI HILLS TSUTAYA RED CROSS HOSPITAL, HIROO

AZABU, HIROO & SHIROKANE PRIME EXPAT PROPERTIES

THE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS

Azabu, Hiroo and Shirokane are prominent cosmopolitan areas right in the heart of Tokyo’s Minato ward. The pedestrian-friendly small streets are lined with boutiques, restaurants and upscale apartments, which are some of Tokyo’s prime expat properties. The Hiroo and Azabu areas have historically been home to many diplomats, senior executives and expats who want a convenient, Western lifestyle in the center of Tokyo’s foreign community. Also in this area are some of Tokyo’s most popular international schools, preschools, parks and recreational facilities, and international supermarkets.

The village-like feel of these tight-knit communities, coupled with the close proximity to Shibuya, Roppongi and Akasaka, has made these neighborhoods popular with expats for decades. Access to just about anywhere in central Tokyo couldn’t be better via the Hibiya, Namboku, Mita and Oedo subway lines. Azabu Juban has been a desirable residential address for nearly three hundred years, and to this day many of the establishments on its narrow shopping streets are local, familyfun businesses, rather than chain stores and restaurants. These historic Japanese shops, combined with the international community, provide a uniquely cosmopolitan feel. The Moto-Azabu area, home to the tree-shaped Motoazabu Hills residential high-rise building and the Nishimachi International School, has become one of the most desired residential neighborhoods in Tokyo. Just across the border of Shibuya ward, Hiroo is popular because of its charming neighborhoods with tree-lined streets and many Western style apartments. The area directly around Hiroo station has a nice selection of boutiques, cafés, restaurants and bars, yet it is very quiet after the last train

A BRIEF HISTORY Between the 17th and 19th centuries, feudal nobles built huge estates in this area, and many of these remain today as the premises of some of the many embassies here. Naturally, diplomats and foreigners associated with these embassies made their homes in the Azabu and Shirokane areas, establishing some of Tokyo’s first upscale suburbs.

around midnight. Arisugawa Park provides an ideal spot to enjoy a little nature on weekends. The Hiroo and Red Cross Hospitals are both well equipped to treat foreign residents, and the International School of the Sacred Heart is within a few minutes’ walk of Hiroo station. Shirokane is an “old money” neighborhood just one block south of Minami-Azabu, offering a quieter residential experience with smaller neighborhoods and plenty of greenery. There are several shopping streets and supermarkets, and the Institute for Nature Study is one of the city’s most tranquil getaways. The Shirokane area is a popular alternative to Azabu and Hiroo because it is still very central and convenient, but also offers some detached houses with private gardens.

QUICK AREA GUIDE Residential neighborhoods in Azabu: Minami-Azabu , Motoazabu, Azabu Juban, Nishi Azabu 3-Chome Hiroo: Hiroo, Nishi Azabu 4-Chome, Minami-Aoyama 7-Chome Shirokane: Shirokane 2-Chome, Shirokane 4-Chome, Shirokane 5-Chome, Shirokanedai 2 and 3-Chome

Type of Housing 1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom ••••

Monthly Rent Rating

¥ MOTOAZABU

AZABU, HIROO & SHIROKANE

AZABU JUBAN STATION

ARISUGAWA PARK

HIROO

18 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

NATIONAL ART CENTER, ROPPONGI

ROPPONGI & AKASAKA TOKYO’S HOT SPOT

RECREATION & SHOPPING

THE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS

The areas of Roppongi and Akasaka form a central hub for international business, residential urban development, restaurants and nightlife. Housing in this area is typically newer, high-rise apartments with fewer private homes. It is certainly a convenient and exciting location for foreign residents, especially for younger singles and couples.

The Roppongi and Akasaka areas are home to an abundance of international supermarkets, restaurants, bars, clubs and shops. The past decade has seen massive urban redevelopment, with complexes such as Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown offering a wide array of modern office, residential, retail and green space.

A BRIEF HISTORY

RESTAURANTS & NIGHTLIFE

In addition to being prominent centers for business and entertainment, Roppongi and Akasaka offer some of the city’s most prestigious residential neighborhoods. The area is popular with expats for its central location, international atmosphere, and convenient surroundings. It is easily accessible from just about anywhere in Tokyo via five subway lines (Oedo, Ginza, Hibiya, Namboku and Chiyoda), and it offers a truly urban lifestyle, most popular with singles and couples. Typical residences tend to be modern high-rise and apartment complexes, with few detached homes. Some of the popular areas include Roppongi 1-Chome, Toriizaka, Izumi Gardens, Roppongi Hills, and the area around Hikawa Shrine.

Founded by Buddhist monks in the Edo period (1603-1868), Roppongi remained a quiet temple town until after World War II, when the Akasaka and Azabu areas became home to U.S. troops and personnel. Coffee shops, nightclubs, hotels, and restaurants soon emerged to meet the needs of residents, and the Roppongi of today began to take shape. Japanese politicians and bureaucrats have traditionally patronized the black tileroofed restaurants in Akasaka’s geisha quarter. As with many areas of Tokyo, Roppongi and Akasaka offer a unique marriage of traditional Japan with modern, international living.

20 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

Roppongi, often called “the city that doesn’t sleep” for its all-night culture of trendy bars and clubs, has a myriad of options for international entertainment. The Roppongi and Akasaka areas have also become the gourmet center of Tokyo, where diners can choose from world-class restaurants specializing in cuisines such as Japanese, Thai, Indian, Italian, fusion and much more. It is not surprising that it has emerged as the place to catch glimpses of Japanese celebrities and Hollywood stars when they are in town.

AKASAKA BIZ TOWER

TOKYO MIDTOWN

MIDTOWN PLAZA

MIDTOWN GARDEN TERRACE

ROPPONGI HILLS

QUICK AREA GUIDE Residential neighborhoods in this area: Azabu-Nagasakacho, Azabudai, Akasaka, Roppongi, Roppongi 1-Chome, Nogizaka, Toranomon, Atago, Kamiyacho, Hikawa Shrine Area.

Type of Housing 1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom ••••

Monthly Rent Rating

¥ ROPPONGI HILLS METRO HAT

EBISU, MEGURO & GOTANDA AFFORDABLE LIVING IN CENTRAL TOKYO Along the Yamanote line, which defines the inner circle of central Tokyo, are the areas of Ebisu, Meguro and Gotanda, which are just far enough away from the busier areas yet still a very short commute to all business districts (and within minutes of Hiroo, Roppongi and Kamiyacho). They are also places where it is possible to find more spacious homes for lower rent. It used to be that the areas of Meguro and Gotanda were favored only by more established foreign residents of Tokyo, but recently even newcomers are attracted to some of the charming residential neighborhoods that have plenty of parks, recreational centers, and a slightly more suburban feel.

A BRIEF HISTORY Once a quiet town called Mitamura, Ebisu originated from the popular beer brand Yebisu,

which established its brewery there in 1889. Soon after, the company built Ebisu Station to facilitate distribution of its product. The brewery was moved to Chiba in 1988, and the original site and surrounding area were transformed into Yebisu Garden Place, which opened as a shopping, dining and entertainment complex in 1994. The development and popularity of Meguro was due in part to a horse racetrack that existed there from 1907 to 1933. The racetrack was moved further west to Fuchu as Tokyo expanded, and today only the Moto Keba (former racetrack) bus stop remains. In the 17th century, feudal lords were required to spend half of each year in Edo, under the supervision of the Shogun. These lords built stately mansions and estates in the area that is now Shirokane and Kami-Osaki, making this one of Japan’s first upscale suburbs.

THE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Ebisu and Meguro are well-located just minutes from many business districts, the many trendy boutiques of Daikanyama, and dining and clubbing in Roppongi. The lively, stylish area surrounding Ebisu Station is more suitable for singles or couples looking for one- to two-bedroom apartments. To the south of Ebisu station are some prime residential neighborhoods, including Chojamaru and Hanabusayama Kami-Osaki 3-chome, with upscale three- to four-bedroom apartments and

homes best suited to families. Between Ebisu and Meguro is the Nature Study Park, a nature preserve with lots of plants and greenery to enjoy. To the northeast of Gotanda station is Ikedayama Higashi Gotanda 5-chome, which boasts larger homes for those with bigger budgets and is also home to the Prime Minister’s estate. In a city with streets going in all directions, this neighborhood was laid out on a grid with a slightly suburban feel. Another notable residential area is Higashi Gotanda 3-chome, were the Seisen University is located. These areas are very convenient locations for commutes by car or train. Daikanyama is one of Tokyo’s hippest neighborhoods—a trendy place for young couples and families to shop and dine. Housing in this area tends to be newer low-rise buildings with apartments best suited for singles and couples, but some affordable larger units can also be found. The commute by train from Daikanyama or Nakameguro stations can be problematic at times due to the crowded trains of the Toyoko Line going to Shibuya. Nearby Ebisu is better, offering both the JR Yamanote line and Hibiya subway line, which connect easily to central locations and Yokohama.

GOTANDA

QUICK AREA GUIDE Residential neighborhoods in Ebisu: Higashi-Ebisu, Kami-Osaki, Mita, Chojamaru Meguro: Aobadai, Meguro,Kami-Osaki 2-Chome , Kami-Osaki 3-Chome, Mita Gotanda: Higashi-Gotanda 5-Chome, Higashi-Gotanda 3-Chome

MEGURO RIVER

Nakameguro and Daikayama: Aobadai, Sarugakucho, Daikanyamacho, Nishi-Ebisu

Type of Housing 1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom •••• MEGURO STATION

22 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

EBISU STATION

Monthly Rent Rating

SHIBUYA CROSSING

QUICK AREA GUIDE Residential neighborhoods: Shoto, Shibuya, Yoyogi-Koen, Uehara, Yoyogi 5-Chome, Nishihara, Oyamacho, Tomigaya, Jinnan, Hachiyamacho, Nanpeidaicho, Sakuragaokacho. Type of Housing

Monthly Rent

1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom ••••

Shibuya/Shoto ¥

Yoyogi ¥

HANAMI IN YOYOGI PARK

SHOTO

SHIBUYA, YOYOGI & SHOTO A VIBRANT CITY Largely a commercial and entertainment district, Shibuya is a vibrant, trendsetting place that is constantly in motion. Over the last 30 years, it has grown to become the center of Japan’s popular youth culture, and it has no shortage of department stores, record shops, discount stores, restaurants, and bars. Shibuya is also famous for one of the world’s busiest intersections—Hachiko crossing, directly in front of Shibuya Station. But not far from the hustle and bustle are some quiet, upmarket neighborhoods such as Shoto and Yoyogi.

A BRIEF HISTORY The areas of Yoyogi and Shoto grew prosperous in the 1920s and 30s after new rail lines were built out from central Tokyo. It was the Japanese families of Uehara who kept and preserved

it as an area of residential greenery. The area became popular among foreign residents in 1978, after the Chiyoda subway line was completed, connecting Yoyogi Uehara to Otemachi, one of Tokyo’s major financial centers. In the 1960s a fierce department store war broke out in Shibuya, beginning the development of one of Tokyo’s most famous and active shopping districts. Previously monopolized by the Tokyu Railway Company, the area saw new competitors move in, to which Tokyu responded by building even more department stores such as the legendary Shibuya 109.

RECREATION & SHOPPING Yoyogi Park, the largest park and green space in Tokyo, defines this area with its paths and lawns that are packed with tourists and residents on weekends. It is a place to enjoy jogging, sunbathing, picnics and cherry blossom viewing. Residents is the area can easily enjoy some of the city’s best shopping and dining in Shibuya or Shinjuku, and Daikanyama, Omotesando, and Harajuku are only a short taxi ride, walk, or train ride away.

YOYOGI OLYMPIC STATDIUM

single-family homes with gardens along wide, tree-lined streets. Commuting to the business district of Otemachi and other parts of Tokyo is ideal via the Chiyoda and Odakyu lines. Yoyogi Uehara is popular with families who have children attending the American School in Japan (ASIJ), as it offers the shortest bus ride on the ASIJ bus route. Shoto is a small, exclusive neighborhood very close to Shibuya Station and Yoyogi Park. Expect very high rents in this area, for Shoto has historically been a prestigious address with many exceptional Japanese and Western style residences. The area is great for shopping and dining, as it is just minutes from Shibuya or a short taxi ride from neighboring Daikanyama. Shoto offers easy access to the rest of the city through the major hub of Shibuya Station, and it is also on the bus route for ASIJ and very close to the British School.

THE RESIDENTIAL AREAS Yoyogi Uehara, Tomigaya, Oyamacho and Nishihara offer apartments and spacious

YOTSUYA, IIDABASHI & ICHIGAYA A EUROPEAN COMMUNITY IN HISTORIC TOKYO Yotsuya, Ichigaya, Bancho, and Iidabashi are located between Shinjuku and Chiyoda wards, geographically in the center of Tokyo in what was the historical command post for the nation a few hundred years ago. Although the location is very central, there are distinctively charming neighborhoods, as well as surprisingly quiet residential areas. These areas have consistently been the favorites of European residents, particularly French expats, because of the nearby Lycee Franco-Japonais school (located between Iidabashi and Kudanshita). This is the ideal place for those looking for traditional Japan with a slice of European charm.

A BRIEF HISTORY You won’t get much closer to historical Japan then the Imperial Palace. Around the turn of the 16th century, the district that is now the imperial grounds became the center of national affairs. The city of Tokyo (called Edo at the time) soon grew at breakneck speed. Even today, at the center of the capital of modern Japan, the Imperial Palace and its expansive grounds visually dominate Chiyoda ward. For residents and newcomers alike, the grand gates, the moat of the palace, and the Marunouchi office quarters to the east of Tokyo station offer a glimpse of the past and can be quite fascinating.

RECREATION & SHOPPING The area, with its mix of old and new urban styles, has a wide selection of parks, attractions and historical landmarks for both residents and visitors. The grounds of the Imperial Palace attract joggers year round, as well as large groups of people who come in the springtime to enjoy cherry blossom season. Shinjuku Gyoen,

which is home to both Japanese and European gardens, is located on the west side of this area close to Shinjuku. One of the city’s most famous shrines, Yasukuni Jinja, is on the east side. For sports and recreation, Tokyo Dome and its nearby shopping center and amusement park are located in the northern part of this area.

THE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS Within minutes of Tokyo and Shinjuku stations, these areas offer convenient access to all districts of Tokyo and beyond. Four train and subway lines (Yurakucho, Marunouchi, Namboku, and the JR Sobu line) serve the area, with 12 stations nearby. Ichigaya and Bancho are the most popular residential neighborhoods for expats, and are also home to many of Tokyo’s prominent politicians. You will find pricey upscale apartments and homes in this area, despite the lack of greenery and mix of commercial buildings. Yotsuya offers mostly apartments in quiet communities with narrow streets and is perhaps the most well known of these areas for fine dining and having one of the best-connected train stations in the city.

SADOHARACHO

QUICK AREA GUIDE IMPERIAL PALACE

Residential neighborhoods: Ichibancho - RokuBancho (districts 1 – 6 of Bancho), Shinanomachi, Ichigaya, Kagurazaka, Ushigome Kagurazaka, Ushigome Yangicho, Iidabashi, Kioicho, Kojimachi, Ichigaya Sadoharacho, Haraikatamachi.

Type of Housing 1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom •••• NATIONAL DIET

24 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

Monthly Rent Rating

IMPERIAL PALACE

QUICK AREA GUIDE Denenchofu, Jiyugaoka, Senzokuike, Oyamadai, Todoroki, Kaminoge, Futako Tamagawa, Seta, Fukazawa, Sakurashinmachi, Nakamachi, Okusawa, Ookayama, Yoga, Seta, Komazawa. Type of Housing 1 Bedroom •••• 2 Bedroom •••• 3 Bedroom •••• 4 Bedroom ••••

Monthly Rent Rating

FUKUZAWA

KOMAZAWA PARK

SENZOKU POND

SUBURBAN SOUTHWEST TOKYO COMFORTABLE FAMILY LIVING Just a short commute southwest of Shibuya and Meguro are some of Tokyo’s premier suburban neighborhoods. The area is full of quiet residential blocks with spacious homes in an array of tasteful styles, as well as gardens, parks, upscale shopping, and some of Tokyo’s best international schools. It’s the ideal place for those who value a home-centered, family-oriented life in an international atmosphere. Residents will also be able to get more space and possibly a garden or yard for the same rent as a smaller apartment in central Tokyo.

A BRIEF HISTORY Southwest Tokyo began to develop in the early 1900s as the vision of developer Eichi Shibusawa, who planned to create a “garden suburb” designed after some of the suburban develop-

ments in other major cities at the time. His idea was well received, but the garden suburb truly began to boom after the Tokyo earthquake of 1923. Central Tokyo was leveled, but Denenchofu remained virtually undamaged. Today Shibusawa’s ideas can still be seen in the area’s multitude of parks, greenery and leisure facilities.

RECREATION & SHOPPING Throughout suburban southwest Tokyo, places to shop, eat, play, or simply go for a stroll are never far away. Residents and their families can easily enjoy the green open spaces of Komazawa Olympic Park or the Tama River for barbecues, picnics, dog walking, and weekend sports. Boutiques and gourmet eateries can be found on many side streets, and there are several Japanese and international supermarkets in the area. Jiyugaoka is notable for its many trendy shops and boutiques, and Futako Tamagawa offers great shopping around the station and at the Takashimaya shopping mall.

THE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS

Denentoshi, Meguro, and Toyoko train lines. Two popular areas are Denenchofu and Jiyugaoka, which are located along the Toyoko line just 12 to 15 minutes from Shibuya. Denenchofu is the original and perhaps most prestigious garden suburb, with tree-lined avenues of elegant homes surrounded by manicured gardens. Just to the southeast of Jiyugaoka is Senzokuike, near Senzoku Park and well situated on the bus route for the Deutsche Schule Tokyo Yokohama. It offers very easy access to central Tokyo via the Tokyu Ikegami line to Gotanda. Along the Ooimachi train line are the popular family areas of Oyamadai, Todoroki, Kaminoge, and Futako Tamagawa, which are between four and ten minutes from Jiyugaoka, close to international schools, and situated along the bank of the Tama River. The Seta residential area, close to Kaminoge station, is popular for families because it’s just a short walk to St. Mary’s International School. Just to the northeast of these areas are Fukasawa and Sakurashinmachi, which are popular for their many parks, lower population density, and excellent schools (including Seisen International School). With treelined streets, quiet neighborhoods, and a mix of impressive Western and Japanese style homes, these areas are favored by both Japanese and foreign residents alike.

These areas collectively span from western Meguro to Setagaya and Ota wards, and are nestled around stations on the Ooimachi,

A New Style of Tokyo Living

CASE By Kelly Wetherille Walking around Tokyo, one often feels as though there is a seemingly endless supply of new buildings going up at any given time. The most prominent are the high-rise office towers and sprawling commercial complexes, but in between these, house hunters and design aficionados alike will find some very appealing smaller residential properties. One such building that was recently completed in Shibuya’s Kamiyamacho district is drawing lots of attention for its unique look and privacy-promoting layout. Called Case, this residential project is owned and managed by Mori Building, the company behind numerous “mini-cities” within Tokyo, including Roppongi Hills, ARK Hills and Omotesando Hills. It

26 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

is also responsible for several large commercial complexes, such as Harajuku’s Laforet and Odaiba’s VenusFort. So this comparatively tiny new residential property, with only six units scattered across three floors, represents something of a departure from the norm for one of Tokyo’s most active real estate developers. Case also differs greatly from Mori’s many residential properties that are dotted throughout the city. For example, there is no main entrance or front desk; rather, each individual unit has its own direct access to the street, which creates a feeling similar to that of a freestanding home. The layouts of the apartments are also unique, both from each other and from the typical Japanese-style residential floor plans that dominate the market.

The project was designed by Japanese architectural firm SANAA, whose previous credits include the New Museum of Contemporary Art in New York, Le Louvre-Lens in France, and the Christian Dior boutique in Omotesando. Much of the group’s work focuses on either museums or retail space, with far fewer residential projects. The designers’ experience is evident in both the façade and the interior of the building; it is not what you would expect from your average apartment complex. The exterior is covered in silver honeycomb metal, which allows light in while at the same time creating a privacy screen to shield residents from the gaze of neighbors and passersby. It also gives the building a different look at different times of day, shining almost white under the sun and affording a soft glow at night.

Inside Case, other signature elements that set the building apart include curving interior walls, rooms separated by open passages rather than doors, and lots of bright, airy space. According to a spokeswoman for Mori, the designers’ goal was to create apartments that could easily be adapted to the individual owners’ needs, rather than rooms that had just one clear purpose. Walking through the empty apartments, one’s imagination begins to take over, and it is not difficult to envision any number of ways in which the space could be used. But for those who may need a little inspiration or just want to see what the apartments look like when furnished, two units have been done up as models, each decorated by a professional interior designer.

Case 28-9 Kamiyamacho Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Unit E is a two-level apartment with a third-floor loft space that opens onto a private rooftop garden. The main level consists of an open kitchen, living and dining space, and one smaller, private room. The latter could of course be used as a bedroom, but it is currently laid out as a combination walk-in closet and secluded study, with dark wood furnishings creating a warm, peaceful feeling. The large, open space that takes up the majority of the first floor is designed with simple, modern elements. The high ceilings and open plan kitchen mean that it would be an ideal room for entertaining guests. Windows are clear on the top, but white glass on the bottom, which allows light to stream in but blocks the view from those in lower units. Upstairs is a Japanese-style tatami room, with sliding wood shoji

28 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

doors adding an element of privacy to the large windows. A small sink in the corner, as well as a built-in bench on the rooftop balcony, make this another space suitable for entertaining. Futons can be rolled out at night, converting the loft into a bedroom. Next door, unit F is a basement apartment that somehow has enough natural light to make it seem like it is on an upper level, while the feeling of privacy is indicative of an underground unit. From the street-level entrance, stairs lead down to a small, triangular private garden, on either side of which is half of the apartment. The two rooms are completely separate and can only be reached by passing through the garden, making it ideal for separating living space from a home office or study, for example.

On the right side is one large room, as well as the kitchen and bathroom. The designer laid this out as a multi-functional living space, with a double bed on a platform against one wall and curtains that pull around to close it off from the rest of the room. There is also a small dining area and comfortable sofas that face a projection wall for viewing films. On the other side of the garden, the second room has been turned into a study cum bar, with a worktable, plenty of wooden shelves, a cushy leather armchair, and a cabinet containing glassware. Floorto-ceiling windows let light in from the garden. Other units within Case have not been completely furnished, but each has its own distinct look and feel. Unit A, for example, includes a

private parking space off the garden, which opens to the street but is kept apart by a sliding metal door. The same unit is divided into a main apartment and another large underground room, accessible via a staircase off the garden. While these apartments may not be for everyone, they offer residents something that is very rare in Tokyo, and therefore priceless: the ability to adapt and use the space in whatever way best suits each personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individual lifestyle. Whether your emphasis is on work, play or relaxation, Case may just be able to provide the ideal space to spend your valuable time. For sales inquiries, contact Mori Building: 0120-66-2303

RENTING GUIDE

Getting the right apartment for your individual needs is very important when relocating, especially when moving overseas. Finding that perfect place in a city as expansive as Tokyo can seem overwhelming, so be prepared to spend some time house hunting to get a good idea of the types of apartments available. Typically, you will probably need to see at least 10 to 20 properties before making your final decision. However rest assured, whether you are coming to Tokyo on an expat package with a housing budget or are paying out of pocket, there is bound to be an apartment well suited to you.

EXPAT APARTMENTS Properties that cater specifically to expats are generally priced over ¥350,000 per month and include major appliances such as a washer, dryer, dishwasher, phone and phone line, and refrigerator. They require four to six months’ rent as a security deposit, but no key money.

TYPICAL JAPANESE APARTMENTS Apartments designed with Japanese renters in mind often cost under ¥350,000 per month in rent and do not come with any appliances or furnishings. They require between one and four months’ rent as a security deposit, in addition to another one to two months’ rent for key money. Most apartments in Japan are leased on two-year contracts, and a contract renewal fee of one month’s rent is charged for each additional two years a tenant wishes to stay. Once you have found a suitable apartment or house, you will need to make the necessary contractual arrangements before moving in. Before signing any contracts, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with some of the rental regulations and customs in Japan. Understanding some of the differences that exist between your home country and planning ahead will help to prevent any problems that may arise in the future regarding your new home. AGENTS COMMISSION (CHUKAI TESURYOU) There is a standard agents commission of one month’s rent plus 5% tax. SECURITY DEPOSIT (SHIKIKIN) Landlords will often request two to four months’ rent in advance as a security deposit. When a tenant moves out or the lease expires, the cost of cleaning and any necessary repairs will be deducted from this security deposit. KEY MONEY (REIKIN) The concept of key money is unique to Japan and requires some clarification. In short, key money is a non-refundable up front payment to the landlord and is usually equivalent to one or two months’ rent. This may not be well received by foreign residents unfamiliar with the concept, but the good news is, it is usually only required in the case of typical Japanese-style

30 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

apartments. Even then, many landlords recently are open to negotiating on key money, and some are beginning to forego it altogether. In the case of the more expensive expat properties, key money is not usually requested at all. In the event that key money is required, it may be possible to pay it in monthly installments spread out over the two year contract. For example, if the rent is ¥120,000 a month and the key money is ¥240,000, you could pay ¥130,000 per month for two years.

CANCELLATION FEES If you cancel after signing the lease before you move in there will be a one month penalty. In the case of cancellation of the contract after moving in, you are obliged to give at least 2 months notice. If you move out before the end of the first year there is usually a one month penalty. If you move out without giving the full 2 months notice there is also a penalty of up to two months’ rent, (pro-rated).

MONTHLY MAINTENANCE FEE (KANRIHI) In some typical Japanese style apartments a monthly building maintenance fee will be added to the rent. In the case of expat apartments maintenance fees are almost always included in the monthly rent. RENEWAL FEE (KOUSHINRYOU) In the case of typical Japanese apartments, a non-refundable renewal fee is often charged each time the two-year lease is renewed. This fee is typically equal to one month’s rent and is paid to landlord.

INSPECTION - CHECKLIST Before signing a lease for an apartment or house, it is a good idea to do a thorough inspection of the property to ensure there are no surprises after moving in. Be sure to check the following: 1.

Is there cable TV and internet access in the building?

2. Is there satellite TV in the building? If not, check to see if the owner will either install a satellite dish for you, or allow you to install your own satellite dish. 3. Are the TV and phone jacks located in places where you would want to use a TV or phone? 4.

Is there ample closet space for your belongings?

What is the condition of the paint, carpet and wallpaper?

6. Does the apartment have central air conditioning or separate wall units in the bedroom and living room? 7.

Are any appliances provided in good working condition?

8. Have your real estate agent check to see if there are any construction sites nearby. There is a lot of construction in Tokyo with new buildings going up in every area, and this may be noisy or change the conditions around your building by blocking views. 9. Car owners should ensure their cars fit in the parking space provided, as some parking garages are very small, have a low ceiling, or are the elevator type. Be especially careful if you plan to buy a large car or SUV.

For example: - no notice is a two month penalty - 1⁄2 month’s notice is a one and a half month penalty - 1 month’s notice is a one month penalty

UTILITIES Generally speaking, the total cost of water, gas and electricity bills in Japan is said to be about seven to ten percent of the monthly rent. Utilities have a basic monthly starting fee, even in months when they are not used there will still be a small charge.

HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING For most tenants in Japan, the most expensive utility bill will be electricity, depending on how often the air conditioning and heating is used. Tokyo summers are very hot and humid, and the winters are dry and cold. In many apartments there are individual heating and cooling units in each room, allowing for much better localized climate control, which is likely to be more economical than central air-conditioning. Some larger family apartments and houses will have two electricity bills, one that is only for air conditioning and the other for all other electricity used that month.

SECURITY DEPOSIT DEDUCTIONS When tenants vacate a property in Japan, they almost always have to pay a cleaning fee even if they have cleaned the apartment or house themselves before leaving. This fee is normally about ¥1,000 to ¥1,500 per square meter, so the bill for a 100m2 apartment would be between ¥100,000 and ¥150,000.

DAMAGE Each time a tenant moves out of a house or apartment, a damage inspection will be conducted. This is done with the owner and/or his representative, the real estate agent, and sometimes the tenant. The inspection is necessary to determine whether or not any damage has occurred. If there is damage, the cost of repairs will be invoiced to the tenant or his company and deducted from the original security deposit.

10. Is there any bicycle parking?

APPLICATION & CONTRACT SIGNING Once you have found a property that is right for you, your real estate agent will send an application on your behalf to the owner. The application, signed by the human resources department of your company in the case of a company contract, will include a bid for the rent, desired move-in date, and any other requests you may have. There is a possibility that an application will be rejected by the landlord, in which case you’ll have to continue your search for another suitable apartment. After both parties have agreed on the rent and terms, the owner will send a draft of the contract to your real estate agent or company. Contracts are almost always in Japanese, so it is important to review them carefully with a Japanese person before signing.

GUIDE TO RENTING APARTMENTS

By Housing Japan The process of renting apartments and houses is quite particular in Japan. Therefore it is important for newcomers to familiarize themselves with the basic procedures. These seven steps outline the process from house hunting through to moving out.

1 HOUSE HUNTING INQUIRIES It is a good idea to make a list of requirements for your new apartment or house and start house hunting about two months before your desired move-in date. Check the Housing Japan listings online and begin to get an idea of what type of property and location interests you (for example, an 80m2 2LDK apartment in Hiroo). Choose several properties from our online showroom, keeping in mind that our inter-office database includes thousands of properties so our agents will be able to recommend many more properties based on your requests and initial choices. Once you have chosen some properties youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to check out, send an inquiry to Housing Japan using our our online request form or by email or phone.

2 APARTMENT VIEWINGS As the leasing market in Tokyo moves quickly, it is better to view your chosen properties as soon as possible before they are taken. Based on your top choices, our agents will arrange some apartment viewings for you. Part of the tour will include an orientation of the areas and local amenities. You should prepare a checklist of requirements and things to check for at each property.

32 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

3 APPLICATION Once you have chosen a property, one of our real estate agents will send an application on your behalf to the owner. The application, signed by you or the human resources department of your company, will include a bid for the rent, desired move-in date, and any other requests you may have.

PROPERTY INSPECTION & MOVING IN On the move-in date you will receive the keys from the agent or owner and an orientation of your new apartment or house. At this time, you should ask the owner to make a note of any existing damage, if any, so that you will not be responsible to pay for these repairs when you move out. When you leave the property, you or your company will be responsible to pay for any damage that may have taken place during your stay, so take care to check the condition of the property thoroughly before moving in.

6 FULL SUPPORT DURING YOUR STAY During your stay in the property, you can call the management company or real estate agent at any time if you have any questions or problems with the apartment, such as the air conditioning unit not working, plumbing issues, TV or internet assistance, or if you need a parking permit for your car.

NEGOTIATION & CONTRACTS After negotiations have been completed and both parties have agreed on the rent and terms, the owner will send a draft of the contract to your real estate agent or company (usually the human resources department). The contract will normally be for two years. After both parties have agreed to the draft, the owner will make an original contract for both parties to sign.

MOVING OUT When it is time for you to move out, the owner or management company will do a final house inspection and you will return all the keys to the owner. At this time, you and your agent will be able to negotiate with the owner over the damage fees. Note that for security reasons, if you have lost a key you will probably be charged for changing the locks, not just for making a new key.

ART & DESIGN

Art on the Water By Paul McInnes BankArt Studio NYK is a converted warehouse on Yokohama’s Kaigan-dori, with enviable views of the waterside and Minato Mirai complex. In addition to its main purpose as artist residences (it has eight spaces ranging from 20 to 80 square meters), it also includes a pub and café, bookstore, exhibition space and much more. It was used as a venue for the Yokohama Triennale in 2008, and since opening in 2005 it has held a central position on the Yokohama creative scene. Formerly housed in two former banks, BankArt is a creative hive with several offshoots running in conjunction with Studio NYK. The organizational network includes several other projects in the Yokohama area and serves the artistic community and other residents intent on flexing their creative muscles. BankArt Studio NYK has a to-be-expected trendy vibe. On the ground floor alongside the bar and café, which is open until 11pm and serves a range of food and drinks, is the exhibition space, which recently played host to the prestigious Tama Art University Product Design graduation exhibition. Additionally, the artist-in-residence program gave valuable research space to the Shimurabros—a cool brother and sister duo from Yokohama who are some of the rising stars of the Japanese art world. The bookstore is packed with art books, DVDs and exhibition catalogs, and is a goldmine for those interested in Japanese and international art. The complex also hosts educational courses including lectures and postgraduate courses, bringing teachers, students and creators together in meaningful artistic discourse. BankART also functions as an event space— interested parties can lease it by the day and benefit from BankArt’s expert planning and budget advice. Ultimately, this unique waterside venue is a refreshing concept that places art and creators at the center of the local community. Along with Kanagawa prefecture’s host of art schools and galleries—including the main Kenzo Tange-designed Yokohama Museum of Art—Yokohama can now be viewed as one of Japan’s most important artistic locations. BankArt Studio NYK, with its stunning views and position as artistic hub, plays a key role in the rejuvenation of the area, while also providing a hip place to relax and be seen, away from the temptations of Yokohama’s retail and entertainment scene.

BankArt Studio NYK 3-9 Kaigandori, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa Tel: 045-663-2812 www.bankart1929.com

34 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

May’s Corporation has been assisting thousands of expatriates to settle into their new life in Japan for over twenty years. We also provide our interior design services to real estate developers and property owners. Our services are available in Tokyo’s 23 wards, as well as the surrounding areas of the Kanto region.

With May’s, starting a new life in Tokyo can be very easy. Whether you decide to lease or buy, we can provide everything you need for your interior. May’s offers a variety of styles and designs, from traditional Asian and European period furniture to modern classics and contemporary designer furniture. You will be impressed with our selection of fashionable, brand new items and the excellent condition of our reasonably priced, secondhand furniture. We can also supply you with curtains, lamps and lighting fixtures, electrical appliances and even tableware and linens. Now you can start your Tokyo life with few worries and leave your own furnishings back home.

Showroom business hours: Monday-Friday 10:00am-6:00pm , Saturday 10:00am-5:30pm Sunday & Public Holidays Closed

Phone 03-3560-1301 Fax 03-5570-0301 www.mays.co.jp/eng Basic Costs to Lease Furniture Per Contract Term

1-bedroom home (About ¥840,000 worth of furniture) 1 year ¥50,000/month 2 year ¥35,000/month 3 year ¥25,000/month

36 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

2-bedroom home (About ¥1.3 million worth of furniture) 1 year ¥75,000/month 2 year ¥60,000/month 3 year ¥40,000/month

3-bedroom home (About ¥1.9 million worth of furniture) 1 year ¥115,000/month 2 year ¥75,000/month 3 year ¥60,000/month

Please note that our showroom will move to Toranomon as of August 2013. For the new location and map please visit our web site at: www.mays-furniture-rental-tokyo.com/showroom/ May’s Corporation Kowa 16 Bldg. South 1F 1-9-20 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 Ginza Line (G06) Nanboku Line (N06) Exit 9 or 13

BUYING GUIDE 38 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

Why buy? There are many motivations for buying real estate in Japan. Long term residents of Tokyo may desire to own their own home for stability. A young or growing family wants its own space. It is easy to tire of rental accommodations, which can be inflexible and of poor quality. Many buyers are also excited by the prospect of renovating or building their own home. Real estate in Tokyo is also an excellent investment. After years of deflation, property prices have come down dramatically and interest rates are very low. Rental returns, however, are still reasonably high. As such, it usually costs less per month to purchase a home with finance than it does to rent an equivalent property. On top of the financial advantages, the quality of construction is high, the ownership rights are sound and the purchase process is transparent.

apartment or house? The first decision is whether to buy an apartment or a house. Naturally, there are advantages and disadvantages of each. The table below provides a summary of some of the key points to consider.

Apartment

House

Positive

Negative

Affordable Easy Maintenance Facilities

Depreciation Management Fees Parking Fees Low Control

Land Ownership Control Low Running Cost

Maintenance

Houses are more expensive and there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many available in good locations. The purchase price of an apartment is usually lower, but the building management fees and parking costs mean the monthly running costs are higher. The other issue to consider is control of the asset. In an apartment, decisions about building repairs and eventually rebuilding the apartment are made by the body corporate. As such, ownersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; control over their apartment is somewhat limited, and this can cause the asset to depreciate more quickly. On the other hand, with a house you are free to renovate and rebuild at will. This complete control allows the asset to retain value over time. Of course, there are downsides to owning a house as well. The owner is responsible for the maintenance and upkeep, which can be time consuming and costly.

Purchase Process 1. Finance Speak to your bank about financing options. Housing Japan is able to help with introductions to expatriate friendly lenders. 2. Requirements List your requirements and discuss these with your agent. Consider the area, budget and level of accommodation you require. 3. Search Get to know the market and your agent. Spend time on the website and talking to your agent about properties. Look at the recent sales and understand the values and relative prices of properties in your target range. 4. Inspections The more you see, the better you will understand the market and the easier it will be to make the decision to buy when you find the right property. 5. Application When potential owners find the right property, they will need to submit an application to purchase. This is a non-binding written expression of a party’s interest to purchase the property at a certain price. An application shows the seller you are serious and will start the negotiation process.

Summary of Costs

6. Explanation of Important Matters Once the price has been agreed upon, your agent will start the contract process. The agent is required to investigate the details of the property and provide you with an Explanation of Important Matters. This document defines all the important terms of the contract. You should read and fully understand this document before executing the contract.

When purchasing a property in Japan, normally the taxes and fees will come to about five to six percent of the purchase price of the property. Note that official estimated valuations are generally much lower than the market price.

7. Executing the Contract The contract execution usually takes place at the agent’s offices and takes about two hours to complete. It is typical to pay the owner a deposit of 10 percent of the purchase price, or 10 million yen, at the time of the contract signing.

Acquisition Tax Official land estimated value x 0.5 (1/2) x 3% Official building estimated value x 3% Registration Tax Registration Tax is about 1% of the Standard taxable value

8. Loan Application Although you will probably have pre-approval from a lender, once the contract is complete you can make the formal loan application. It usually takes a month to six weeks for final approval, after which the final closing date can be set. If you using financing, the contract will have a clause saying that you are applying for a mortgage from a particular bank with a proposed approval date. If, for some reason, the mortgage is not approved, the contract will be terminated.

Stamp Duty For a property of ¥50,000,000 to ¥100,000,000, the stamp duty will be ¥45,000 for the property contract and ¥60,000 for the mortgage contract. Judicial Scrivener Fees For a property of ¥100,000,000 the fee should be about ¥100,000

9. Final Settlement The final settlement usually takes place at the buyer’s bank and is handled by a judicial scrivener. The buyer will transfer the remaining balance to the seller’s account and the title of the property will be transferred to the buyer. On completion, the seller delivers all the keys to the property and the transfer of ownership is complete.

Agents Fee 3.15% of sale price + ¥63,000

Bank name

Qualifications

Property Type

LDV

Interest Rate Repayment

MUFG

Worked over 3 years at the same company located in Japan

Apartment, Land, House

up to 5 - 7 times Annual Income

80 to 100%

0.975 ~

up to 35 years

Mizuho

Application for permanent residency

Apartment, Land, House

up to 5 - 7 times Annual Income

80 to 100%

0.975 ~

up to 35 years

SMBC

Japanese spouse or permanent residency

Apartment, Land, House

up to 5 - 7 times Annual Income

80 to 100%

0.975 ~

up to 35 years

Tokyo Star Bank

Worked over 3 years at the same company located in Japan

Apartment, Land, House

up to 5 - 7 times Annual Income

80 to 100%

0.975 ~

up to 35 years

Citi Bank

Working Visa in Japan

Apartment, Land, House

up to 5 - 7 times Annual Income

70 to 90%

1.3 ~

up to 35 years

National Australia Bank

Working Visa in Japan

Apartment, House

up to 5 - 7 times Annual Income

70 to 75%

2.2 ~

up to 30 years

Working Visa in Japan

Apartment, Land, House

up to 5 - 7 times Annual Income

up to 90%

3.5 ~

up to 30 years

Suruga Bank

A HISTORY OF TOKYO REAL ESTATE PRICES

of land sized over 100 square meters. These restrictions brought the price rises to a grinding halt. The Bank of Japan also did its part by tightening interest rates to peak at six percent in 1990.

By Housing Japan Land prices in central Tokyo are now at levels last seen in the mid-eighties. After a long, slow climb during the decades of Japan’s economic miracle, prices exploded in the late eighties in the frenzy of the bubble economy. Over the following decade, prices collapsed by over 80 percent, reaching a low in 2002. Since then, the market has recovered somewhat and levels in 2011 were about 150 percent higher than they were at the lows. Residential land Prices Minato-ku (JPY/SQM) 7 million 6 million 5 million 4 million

In December 1989 the Nikkei average reached its all-time high of ¥38,915. In the following nine months it crashed to below ¥20,000. Financial institutions were swamped with bad loans as asset prices tumbled. Land prices were slower to react, but eventually starting dropping and continued to slide downwards for the next ten years. By 1995 the Bank of Japan had dramatically reversed its monetary policy, slashing rates to a previously unthinkable 0.5 percent in a desperate effort to stem the slide of the economy and asset prices.

Mini Bubble (2002 to 2008) As the new millennium began, the Japanese economy and asset prices failed to recover. In signs of desperation the Bank of Japan cut rates further to 0.1 percent and began extreme monetary policies in the form of QE (Quantative Easing). Around this time the J-Reit market began and the newly listed investment trusts caused a flurry of activity in the property market. In the early years of the new decade there were trillions of yen worth of securitized real estate transactions undertaken, which lead to a mini “fund boom” in real estate prices. These investment trusts focused their attention on assets in the major cities, with prices in some parts of central Tokyo rising as much 170 to 200 percent compared to lows seen in 2002, but the overall market continued to languish.

3 million

Mini Bubble burst

2 million 1 million 0 1975

‘79‘

‘87‘

‘95‘

‘03‘

2001

Bubble period (1982 to 1990) Real estate prices across Japan rose by as much as six to seven times during the 1980s asset bubble. Confidence was strong as the Japanese economic model, often referred to as “Japan Inc.,” seemed to be invincible. Japanese corporations awash with cash made speculative purchases of real estate and corporate assets all over the world. At home in Japan, low interest rates and loose monetary policies fueled a strong economy and high stock prices. Following the Plaza Accord in 1985, the yen appreciated from around 240 yen to the US dollar to about 120 yen in less than a year. In response, the Bank of Japan lowered interest rates from 5.5 percent in 1983 down to 2.5 percent in 1987. This dramatic easing of monetary policy at a time of economic strength sparked an explosion of real estate transactions and high stock prices. Adding fuel to the fire, the government under Prime Minister Nakasone reduced corporate tax rates from 42 percent to 30 percent, and slashed top marginal income tax rates from 70 percent to 40 percent. It was said at the time that the value of the Imperial Palace in Tokyo exceeded the value of all the real estate in California. Land in Ginza 4-chome was reported to have traded at ¥90,000,000 ($750,000 at the time) per square meter.

Bubble burst As asset prices reached extreme levels, the government tried to slow the growing bubble and introduced policies which led to the bursting of the bubble. In 1990 the Ministry of Finance put restrictions on the total loan volume of real estate lending, which caused an immediate and dramatic drop in the availability of credit. Other government restrictions resulted in the need for buyers to seek approval from the local ward office for transactions

40 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

By 2006 it seemed once again that a bubble was beginning, so the Ministry of Finance moved again to restrict investment real estate loans. The global financial markets then took center stage as the US sub-prime loan scandal erupted in 2007, culminating in the “Lehman shock” of 2008. Foreign investors disappeared from the Japanese real estate market as the securitized non- recourse lending market ceased to exist. Real estate prices in Tokyo once again slumped but did not return to the lows of 2002. By 2010 prices managed to stabilize at levels around 150 percent above the lows.

Earthquake On March 11, 2011 the Tohoku region of Japan was devastated by an enormous earthquake, tsunami and the meltdown of the Fukushima nuclear power station. Tokyo also experienced a large tremor, but buildings and infrastructure were largely unaffected. Initially the real estate market froze as buyers were very nervous to commit in the wake of the disaster. As the situation stabilized and the recovery efforts in Tohoku commenced, real estate transactions began again and the price levels in Tokyo are basically unchanged from before the earthquake.

THE JINGUMAE RESIDENCE

Brand New Luxury Tower in Jingumae The Jingumae Residence is a brand new luxury residential tower complex in one of Tokyo’s most prestigious locations, adjacent to the upscale shopping districts of Aoyama and Omotesando. The complex boasts an

42 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

impressive list of amenities, including concierge and reception services, guest salons, lounges, and a sky deck. All of this is within a park-like setting with gardens and open public spaces for residents to enjoy.

Train Access • 7-minute walk from Gaienmae Station (Ginza Line) • 9-minute walk from Omotesando Station (Ginza, Chiyoda, Hanzomon Lines)

Building Outline • Address: 3-37-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo • Price Range: ¥62,900,000 to ¥129,000,000 • Total Units: 11 units • Unit Types: 1 to 3 bedrooms • Building Completion: April 2013 • Move-in date: August 2013 • Structure: Steel-reinforced concrete • Unit Sizes: 50.33m2 to 100.21m2

Amenities • Grand Lobby • Aqua Lounge • Entrance Hall • Guest Salon • Entrance Lounge with Fireplace • Meeting Salons • Sky Deck • Water Garden • Forest Garden

Services • Concierge • Reception • Cleaning • Catering • Flower Delivery • Package Shipping and Receiving

The Area Located only a few minutes’ walk from Omotesando Hills and Harajuku, and easy walking distance to supermarkets, schools and other amenities, Jingumae Residence promises a superbly convenient lifestyle. The neighborhood around the Jingumae Residence is one of Tokyo’s most famous and affluent, providing an elegant, peaceful contrast to the hustle and bustle of central Tokyo. For those who like to be in the center of shopping and fashion, Omotesando is Tokyo’s premier shopping neighborhood, while Harajuku is the city’s most prominent youth fashion district. In the

back streets of Harajuku, one can find every conceivable type of shop for clothing and accessories, as well as a high number of beauty salons. This area also boasts one of the highest concentrations of parks and public outdoor spaces in Tokyo, with Yoyogi Park, Jingu Gaien, Jingu Baseball Stadium, and a stretch along Ichonamiki Street all providing ample green space. This makes it easy to get out and enjoy weekend activities. Supermarkets such as Kinokuniya stock a great selection of international foods and are conveniently located on Aoyama-dori close to Omotesando station.

Access This location is less than a 10-minute walk to Omotesando station (Chiyoda, Hanzomon and Ginza lines) and Jingumae station (Chiyoda and Fukutoshin lines), offering very easy access by Tokyo Metro to many of city’s popular central destinations: • Shibuya: 2 minutes • Akasaka Mitsuke: 4 minutes • Roppongi: 8 minutes (including 1 transfer) • Tokyo: 12 minutes • Ginza: 12 minutes • Otemachi: 13 minutes

It is also within walking distance of many of the cities attractions: • Omotesando Hills: 710 meters • Tokyu PlazaOmotesando Harajuku: 840 meters • Aoyama: 1,040 meters • Akasaka Sacas: 2,420 meters • Tokyo Midtown: 2,150 meters • Shibuya: 2,040 meters • Harajuku: 870 meters • Meiji Jingu Shrine: 1,270 meters

To arrange a viewing of the model rooms at The Jingumae Residence Mansion Gallery please contact Housing Japan.

44 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

The Units Jingumae Residence includes a variety of unit plans, from one-bedroom units suitable for singles and couples, to spacious threebedroom units designed for families. All apartments feature open living, dining and kitchen concepts, high-end details, and balconies with great views of Omotesando and Harajuku (especially on the upper floors).

The apartments at The Jingumae Residence are spacious, airy and full of light. Big windows and balconies allow lots of light and afford great views of the surrounding skyline. High-quality wood and natural stone combine to give a sense of spacious luxury.

• Two luxurious interior styles: Creative & Luxe and Mature & Rustic • 1- to 3-bedroom units • Areas ranging from 50.33m2 to 100.21m2 • Balconies from 4.96m2 to 15.19m2

BRINGING NEW IDEAS TO LIFE IN TOKYO

HIRAKAWACHO MORI TOWER RESIDENCE LIVING DINING ROOM

Luxury. Community. Convenience. Comfort. The MORI LIVING lifestyle embodies these attributes and so much more. Located in the most desirable residential neighborhoods of central Tokyo and outfitted with facilities and services of the utmost quality, these prestigious properties offer residents the ability to get the most out of city life. MORI LIVING currently has units for sale in a variety of residences, each with its own unique atmosphere and personality. Whether you prefer a quiet residential area near to parks and international schools or a more bustling location with easy access to several subway stations and train lines, there is a property that is perfectly suited to your needs. But it’s not just about location. At MORI LIVING residences, top-of-theline security systems and round-the-clock maintenance staff ensure residents’ safety and privacy 24 hours a day. The latest in earthquake resistant construction techniques are employed and, at some residences, emergency supplies are on hand. So even in the event of a natural disaster, you and your family can rest in peace. Also, receptionists and concierges are on hand to help out with daily tasks, from calling taxis and giving directions to delivering parcels to your apartment.

46 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

MORI LIVING also takes great care in the style and appearance of its buildings, working with such world-renowned designers as Terence Conran, Shozo Uchii and César Pelli. Whether a high-rise tower or a smaller, more intimate residence, each building stands out from its surroundings, forming a landmark that residents will be proud to call home. Special attention is also paid to the little details that make daily life more convenient. Ample closet space, large utility rooms and spacious gardens or balconies make for an enjoyable home life, and abundant green areas offer quiet places to relax and reflect.

For information on units for sale or for rent in any of the above residences or to schedule a viewing, please contact Housing Japan.

Motoazabu Hills Home to international schools, ambassadors’ residences and parks, Motoazabu is historically one of Tokyo’s most exclusive residential areas, and this is one of MORI LIVING’s most family-friendly properties. Located atop a hill and surrounded by mainly low-rise buildings, the unobstructed view from the tower stretches across Tokyo Bay all the way to Mt. Fuji on a clear day. The building is also home to Motoazabu HILLS SPA, and is surrounded by the lush greenery of the Four Seasons Hill, which offers an ideal place to relax and reflect while enjoying the natural beauty of the flowers and trees. The quaint shops, restaurants and cafés of Azabu Juban are also just a short walk away, adding to the convenience and character of the residence.

Case MORI LIVING’s newest residence is also its smallest, with a total of just six units. Each apartment features its own private entrance from the street, as well as a private garden or rooftop balcony. One unit even has its own dedicated parking space, and some are split into two separate rooms divided by a garden. Throughout the property, curved interior walls create a feeling of openness and allow residents the freedom to use the space in whatever way best suits their lifestyle. Here, you are limited only by your own imagination, which will be inspired at every turn by the eclectic shops and restaurants of the surrounding Kamiyamacho area. Also nearby are the bustling streets of Shibuya and the peaceful greenery of Yoyogi Park.

Hirakawacho Mori Tower Residence Imagine a life of luxury, right in the center of one of Tokyo’s most important business and cultural districts. With a commanding view of the Imperial Palace grounds and beyond, this property is ideally located near several train stations and subway lines, making commuting to anywhere in Tokyo quick and easy, and making it possible to spend valuable time on more meaningful pursuits. Within the immediate neighborhood are plenty of supermarkets, restaurants and bars. The residence is also home to exclusive facilities including a small gym outfitted with state-of-the-art machines, a hot stone sauna, a spacious and elegantly decorated sky lounge, and a rooftop terrace with a Japanese-style open-air footbath and barbecue capabilities.

JAPAN’S CRAFT BEER RENAISSANCE

48 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

By Paul McInnis Any beer-quaffing visitors to Japan at the turn of this century would have almost certainly been faced with a depressing choice of Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo or Ebisu and their myriad of seasonal versions. Japan appeared to offer so many exciting forms of entertainment and promises of adventure, but in the beer drinking stakes it was pretty much moribund. This was due to bizarre licensing laws that meant only the brewing behemoths were legally allowed to make beer. All this changed in 1994, when said laws were thankfully changed, allowing smaller and mid-sized breweries to start selling their suds. However, it seemed to take about a decade more for this change to be seen in real terms, with ji-biru (local or craft beer) stocked in liquor stores, supermarkets and eventually in specialized bars devoted to “the good stuff.” Of all the craft beer pubs that have opened or begun selling craft beer in and around Tokyo in the last ten years or so (and there have been many), it’s Tatsuo Aoki’s now legendary Popeye, located in Ryogoku in Tokyo’s east end, which has made the biggest difference to the beer and brewing landscape in Japan. With over 70 draught beers on tap on any given day (and the majority of them Japanese craft beers), it’s a treasure trove for suds lovers. Other bars with impressive reputations include Good Beer Faucets in Shibuya, which is run by Eldad ‘Dede’ Bribrom, an Iranian craft beer expert who is always on hand with recommendations based around individual tastes. In Kanda, a triumvirate of American hopheads opened DevilCraft, which, in addition to the 15 or so draught beers including a curated selection of American and Japanese beers, has some of the most amazing pizzas in the capital. Some patrons frequent DevilCraft just for the food. Along Aoyama-dori, an affluent and fashionable part of town, is Brimmer Beer Box, which lives up to its name. Fashioned from an old shipping container, it has become a favorite with nearby office workers and beer lovers who know a bargain when they see one—all the beers on tap are just ¥500. It’s a simple operation with just a few chairs and a table, as well as some space outside for smokers or those who like a beer in the company of the night sky. All the beers are made in Scott Brimmer’s excellent brewery, located in nearby Kawasaki in Kanagawa prefecture. The compact operation serves up three staples—Golden Ale, Porter and Pale Ale. There is also a specialty beer that changes throughout the year. Other recommended craft beer spots include the four Taprooms, operated by Baird Brewing Company, which are situated in Nakameguro, Harajuku, Bashamichi in Yokohama and in Shizuoka prefecture, as well as bars such as TY Harbor and Shibuya’s Aldgate. Even in the most pedestrian of supermarkets nowadays it is not uncommon to stumble upon the wonderful Ginga Kogen, Coedo, Echigo, Yona Yona Ale, or the tasty offerings from Yokohama Brewing. In addition, there are specialist beer and liquor stores such as Mejiro’s fabled Tanakaya or the excellent Shinanoya chain, which can be found dotted around the capital. It’s a whole new world out there, and the craft beer explosion is growing and gaining strength and popularity. Brewers and owners like Brimmer and Popeye’s Aoki are fighting a battle to re-educate punters in the language of beers and to illustrate that beer is as multidimensional and fascinating as any other form of alcohol.

LivingJapan Interviews Some of the Leaders of Japan’s Craft Beer Movement By Paul McInnis

Talking to the Experts

Scott Brimmer of Brimmer Brewing

Takashi Tsutsui of Shonan Beer

Brimmer is the brewmaster at Brimmer Brewing in Kawasaki. He studied brewing at University of California, Davis and has many years of experience brewing both in the US and Japan, at Sierra Nevada Brewing Company and Gotemba Kogen Brewery in Shizuoka. Brimmer Brewing was founded about a year and a half ago and also opened a small pub in Aoyama called Brimmer Beer Box.

Tsutsui is from Tokyo and is the brewmaster at Kumazawa Brewing (the brewer of Shonan Beer) in Chigasaki. He studied brewing in college and has been brewing for about seven years.

LJ: What do you think of the current craft beer boom? SB: I would say we are on the third boom right now in Japanese craft beer culture. The beginning was when the law changed in the 90s, when there were some really big companies throwing lots of money into really cool equipment, and then some of it wasn’t so good and it didn’t really remain consistent so it went down again. And then another boom happened about seven years ago or so, about when I got here. And this boom we’re experiencing right now, and it’s definitely a boom, it’s going to be big. LJ: How hard is it to change the public perception of beer and turning consumers on to craft beers versus beers produced and sold more cheaply by the major breweries? SB: It’s like an education. It is definitely difficult though. We have to go into markets like izakayas, and places like that where they don’t really care about beer. But sometimes you go in packing some free samples and they go, “Wow, that’s actually got some flavor to it.” And people are actually going to pay more for the quality that’s involved in it. LJ: What makes a good beer? SB: First and foremost is probably the quality of the ingredients used, which comes down to what your water source is. And if your water source isn’t that great then you have to know how to treat it. Water and good quality ingredients like barley malts, hops. We use English malts for base malts and for specialty malts most are German in origin. All of our hops are imported directly from some reliable sources in the US.

50 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

LJ: What do you think of the current craft beer boom? TT: Maybe the craft beer market is moving too quickly. In the past, most craft beer bar owners had experience working at craft beer bars before opening their own bar and knew how to take care of craft beer. Recently, however, some new bars have been popping up in the market due to the boom. I’m a little concerned about whether they can handle craft beers properly, but I still hope the current momentum continues. LJ: How does Japan-based craft beer measure up to other beer in the world? TT: The American beers are doing very well. Shonan beer was focusing on German style beers, but recently we have expanded our lineup to Belgian and IPA styles. When I first started, few people in Japan knew what an IPA was. Now hoppy beers are quite trendy in bars, especially in the Tokyo area.

Albert Kuwano Baonyvari of AQ Bevolution

Brian Dishman of Otaru Beer

Yoshinori Gojo & Kazuto Takeuchi of Yokohama Brewing

Kuwano has been in charge of his family’s gyoza business in Utsunomiya for 15 years, and started AQ Bevolution as a sister company to import American craft beer into Japan in 2012.

Dishman has been brewing and working for Otaru Beer since it opened in Hokkaido in 1995. He studied traditional brewing methods in Munich and more recently opened a beer pub in Akasaka, called the Beer Horn.

Gojo is the brewmaster of Yokohama beer and has been brewing for about five years. Takeuchi is the CEO of Yokohama Brewing.

LJ: What do you think of the current craft beer boom? AK: It is booming, indeed! There will certainly be some casualties among bars and brewers who don’t maintain quality and value, and the expansion may slow a little, but craft beer is here to stay for the long term. As in America, it will be continued growth overall as awareness grows and new fans are created. The current fans, owners, and brewers are so knowledgeable and so passionate that there is no stopping them. LJ: How hard is it to change the public perception of beer and turning consumers on to craft beers versus beers produced and sold more cheaply by the major breweries? AK: It’s very easy to get people to drink it when you are buying! To fork over their hardearned yen, though, is another matter. Honestly, craft beer is so tasty that it is easy to get people to appreciate the flavor, but getting them to pay the price is a little difficult, especially in the countryside. Tokyo folks are used to paying a premium for high-quality food and drinks. The Japanese appreciate flavor, aroma, and nuance, so craft beer is a perfect drink for them. Our approach has been not to denigrate Kirin, but rather to offer craft beer as something great to drink after a lager has quenched your thirst. LJ: How would you characterize American craft beer versus Japanese craft beer? AK: American craft beer runs the gamut of flavors and styles, but the general overriding factor is quality. They have been doing it so long and so well, and there is so much competition in the US market, that the beer has to be great to survive. I think the Japanese brewers are doing a great job of keeping that in mind as their world grows. More and more Japanese beers are being sold in the US, too, and you can bet Americans will not buy inferior beer at high prices. The quality has to be there. I’m sure some people would say that American beers are for “hop heads,” and that Japanese beers are mild in comparison, but I think that is a gross generalization that does a disservice to brewers on both sides of the water. Americans make great, balanced, sessionable beers in addition to hoppy-headed ones, and I think Japanese brewers are capable of making great, bold IPA, too. If anything, I think the available ingredients often dictate style choices.

LJ: How hard is it to change the public perception of beer and turning consumers on to craft beers versus beers produced and sold more cheaply by the major breweries? BD: One of the problems is the Japanese idea of what beer is—pilsner beer and that’s it, nothing else. So we need to educate that beer can be something other than ice cold, two degree pilsner. You also need to show people the quality of craft beer and why they should pay more for it. The reason why they pay more is that the raw materials are more expensive and of higher quality. The big beer makers are cheaper because they make massive amounts of beer at a very high speed. They pump beer through the system quickly, instead of fermenting for two weeks and lagering for six weeks like some craft beer makers. LJ: What do you think of the current craft beer boom? BD: We’re experiencing a boom right now, but the expansion has only been for the craft beer makers; the big makers are still decreasing in size. The expansion has brought some of the British beers and hoppy American ales, but I expect that there will be a retraction in the craft beer boom at some point. Weaker pubs will be weeded out and there will be a reduction in the really experimental beers. It will depend on the kind of beers Japanese people are interested in drinking.

LJ: What do you think of the current craft beer boom? YG: I think there is a boom in craft beer bars, not in craft beer itself. Looking at the entire domestic market, actually, it (and the volume of craft beers) has not grown so much. Craft beer occupies just around one percent of the entire beer market. Geographically, some areas are even showing a decrease. An increase of the number of beer bars means more people who did not know about craft beers can reach them easily, which is good for all craft beer brewers. So I hope the momentum continues. LJ: How hard is it to change the public perception of beer and turning consumers on to craft beers versus beers produced and sold more cheaply by the major breweries? KT: We did not find it difficult. We have both conventional beers, which suit the majority of people, and more specialized brews targeting people who are more into craft beers.

LJ: How does Japan-based craft beer measure up to other beer in the world? BD: Japan is of the same quality [as other countries] at this point. Twenty years ago it wasn’t true, maybe, but these days it’s on par with anything else being produced in the world. Japanese brewers are able to produce ales that are on par with other breweries, even German beers at the German levels, and even good Belgian beers.

YOKOHAMA

52 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

By Paul McInnes Only a short train journey from central Tokyo, Yokohama offers a whole new experience, landscape and ambience compared to its hulking and bustling neighbor. Located in Kanagawa prefecture, Yokohama has a long and proud history as one of Japan’s foremost ports. Since the mid-19th century, the city, which looks onto Tokyo Bay, has been involved in international trade. This, along with high numbers of Chinese immigrants and an influx of Americans in the mid-20th century due to the nearby Yokosuka military base, has contributed significantly to its cosmopolitan personality. Nestled between Sakuragichou and Minato Mirai stations are Landmark Tower and Landmark Plaza. Landmark Tower is a huge 70-floor skyscraper that includes a hotel and viewing areas with spectacular panoramic sights of Tokyo Bay and the greater Yokohama area. Landmark Plaza shopping complex takes up the first five floors of the structure, and is a good spot to kick off a tour of Yokohama’s wealth of retail offerings. There are bookstores with foreign magazines and novels, fast-fashion chains such as Gap and H&M, interior shops including FrancFranc, and whole floors devoted to restaurants and cafés for some much-needed post-shopping sustenance. Situated next to Landmark Plaza is the Queen’s East complex, which offers a slightly more curated shopping experience with brands such as Margaret Howell, A.P.C., Tomorrowland and Adam et Ropé. Queen’s Square also offers a host of restaurants, cafés and coffee and ice cream shops. A quick stroll from Queen’s Square takes visitors past the Cosmo World amusement park and huge Cosmo Clock 21 Ferris wheel to the World Porters mall, which houses a cinema, supermarket, and retail and dining options. Slightly further along are the historical Akarenga Soko, or Red Brick Warehouses, which host art exhibitions, film festivals, musical competitions and theater productions. They also house several popular shops and restaurants, as well as the jazz club Motion Blue Yokohama, sister club to Tokyo’s renowned Blue Note. Following the designated walkways from the Red Brick Warehouses, in about 15 minutes sightseers will arrive at Osanbashi Pier, which affords beautiful views of Tokyo Bay and the illuminated Minato Mirai skyline. It’s the oldest pier in Yokohama, originally built in the late 19th century, but it has been modernized over the last 20 years and restyled as an international passenger terminal and gateway to the city.

YOKOHAMA

From the east side of Osanbashi Pier is the beautiful Yamashita Park, which opened in 1930 as Japan’s first seaside park. Visitors and natives use it as a rest spot or as a place to have an ice cream and enjoy stunning sea views. Yokohama also entertains a role as one of Japan’s top dating spots, and Yamashita Park plays a central part in attracting both younger and older couples looking for a quiet place by the sea and away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.

history and personality of the area, which was established after many Chinese immigrants made their home there in the 19th century. In addition to a Chinese temple named Kanteibyo, there are four colorful gates that stand as entrances to Chinatown. It is nearly always bustling with international and domestic visitors, and it’s easy to become happily lost in the area’s alleyways and the heavenly smells emanating from the restaurants and stalls.

It is, however, Yokohama’s world famous Chinatown that, for many, is the main attraction of the city. A short walk from Yamashita Park and near both Ishikawacho and Motomachi-Chukagai stations is Asia’s largest Chinatown, home to hundreds of Chinese restaurants, souvenir stores and small food stalls selling delicious snacks including the everpopular nikuman (meat buns), kuri (roasted chestnuts) and Chinese ramen noodles. It is said that the majority of Chinese residents come from Guangzhou, however the food on offer contains a huge array of Chinese cuisine, including the super-spicy meals from Sichuan province. It really is a food lover’s paradise, and the restaurants are often full, especially on weekends and holidays. This is a proud display of the

Yokohama is a city with a lot to offer. The affluent Motomachi shopping street, the hip streets of Bashamichi and the urban center surrounding Yokohama Station are also worth visiting. The city also acts as a gateway to other parts of Kanagawa prefecture, such as the beaches of Shonan and the historical areas of Kamakura and Enoshima island. In the past Yokohama was, perhaps unfairly, viewed as Tokyo’s less interesting brother. The city, however, has finally come into its own and can be seen as a metropolis in its own right, with a cosmopolitan atmosphere and cool and wide-ranging attractions. It’s a city that should be an essential destination for every visitor to Japan or for any resident needing a welldeserved break from the Japanese rat race.

54 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

YOKOHAMA

Cruising Tokyo Bay in Style

By Tomonori Saito

56 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

Yokohama’s charming waterfront is one of its biggest draws, for tourists and residents alike. And while it’s a great place for a stroll on land, there’s no better way to see the sights of the port than from the water itself. There are several companies that offer boat tours around Tokyo Bay from Yokohama’s port, but one of the most popular—and perhaps one of the better values—is the restaurant cruise line called Royal Wing. The excursions offer passengers a chance to spend quality time with friends and loved ones on the ocean while enjoying a delicious Cantonese meal together. Royal Wing treats passengers to a spectacular panorama of Yokohama’s finest scenery, no matter the time of day. Dinner cruises are popular for their breathtaking night views of the Minato Mirai area and Honmoku pier, and the ship also passes under the Yokohama Bay Bridge. Once aboard the Royal Wing, passengers will find that restaurant and party spaces are all elegantly designed and perfectly suited to such occasions as private parties, birthday celebrations, and wedding anniversaries. Each cruise also offers onboard entertainment for the whole family, including live music, magicians and balloon artists. Royal Wing operates cruises several times a day, every day of the week except Monday. However, the ship will run in the case that a public

holiday falls on a Monday. There are four cruises each day: a lunch cruise from noon to 1:45pm, a tea time cruise from 2:45 to 4:15pm, and two dinner cruises from 5:10 to 7pm and from 7:40 to 9:30pm. The ship departs from Osanbashi Yokohama International Passenger Terminal, which is about a 10-minute walk from Nihon Odori station on the Minato Mirai line. Passengers arriving by car can park for a discounted rate at the terminal’s public parking lot. For each cruise, passengers must check in at least 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time, and cruise schedules may change depending on weather conditions and scheduled private events. Prior reservations with at least three days’ advance notice are recommended, and can be made online or by phone. Tickets for the cruise range from ¥1,000 to ¥2,400 and do not include meal charges. Various dining options, including buffet style and set course meals are available. Please see the Royal Wing website for more details and prices. Additional options, such as a cake or bottle of champagne, can be arranged for special occasions if requested by phone at least two days in advance. For those on a budget or who simply want to enjoy the view without the food, the ship can accommodate up to 80 people per cruise on the sun deck, but passengers are not allowed to bring on board their own food and drinks.

ODAIBA NIGHT VIEW WITH FUJI TV BUILDING

ODAIBA

58 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

DECKS TOKYO FUJI TV BUILDING

Odaiba was originally constructed in 1851 by the Tokugawa shogunate as a series of six fortresses. Its purpose was to protect Tokyo from attack by sea, the primary threat being Commodore Matthew Perry’s Black Ships, which had arrived in the same year. Daiba in Japanese refers to the cannon batteries placed on the islands. The modern redevelopment of Odaiba started after the success of Expo ‘85 in Tsukuba. The Japanese economy was riding high, and Odaiba was to be a showcase of futuristic living, built at a cost of over $10 billion. Unfortunately, the “bubble economy” burst in 1991, and by 1995 Odaiba was a virtual wasteland, under populated and full of vacant lots. In 1996, the area was rezoned from pure business to allow also commercial and entertainment districts, and the area started coming back to life as Tokyo discovered the seaside it never had. Hotels and shopping malls opened up, several large companies (including Fuji TV) moved their headquarters to the island, and transportation links improved. Today’s Odaiba is a popular shopping and sightseeing destination for Tokyoites and tourists alike.

DON'T MISS:

Odaiba is linked to Tokyo proper by many bridges and tunnels, including the scenic Rainbow Bridge. By public transport Odaiba is accessible via the automated Yurikamome transit system from Shinbashi, as well as with the privately operated Rinkai Line running between Osaki and Shin-Kiba.

RAINBOW BRIDGE

• Fuji TV Building: An Odaiba landmark that looks like it’s built out of Tinkertoys. The giant ball suspended in the structure houses an upscale French restaurant. • Rainbow Bridge: Completed in August 1993, this gateway to Odaiba is among the most beautiful modern bridges in Japan. Decorated with 444 lights, which change according to the seasons. • Toyota Mega Web: A Toyota car technology showcase that will fascinate car fans. • Daikanransha: The world’s largest Ferris wheel after the London Eye. • The Museum of Maritime Science: A six-story museum shaped like a full-sized ocean liner, unsurprisingly devoted to ships. One of the main displays, a gigantic turbine engine, was actually set in place first and the museum was built around it. • Tokyo Big Sight: If you’re visiting Tokyo on business, Japan’s largest exhibition and convention center might already be your destination. The four inverted pyramids are hard to miss and worth a look. • Oedo-Onsen-Monogatari: Tokyo’s newest and largest (artificial) hot spring complex, designed in Edo-era (1800s) style and featuring an endless array of baths, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, and resting rooms for sleeping too. • Odaiba Seaside Park: Features the only beach in mainland Tokyo. • Joypolis A giant game center and amusement arcade in Deck Tokyo Beach shopping center.•Oedo-Onsen-Monogatari Tokyo’s newest and largest (artificial) hot spring complex, designed in Edo-era (1800s) style and featuring an endless array of bathtubs, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, and resting rooms for sleeping too. • Odaiba Seaside Park Features the only beach in mainland Tokyo. • Joypolis: A giant game center and amusement arcade in Deck Tokyo Beach shopping center.

GINZA IN THE EVENING

GINZA Ginza is home to neon lights, brand name shopping, historic and cultural sights, and stunning modern architecture. It offers the culture lover a chance to experience traditional kabuki theater, eat Japanese style grilled chicken in the Yakitori Alley, visit the old imperial garden at Hama Rikyu, and shop for Japanese trinkets such as samurai swords and beautiful origami paper. For the technophile there is nothing quite like the world famous Sony Building, where many of Sony’s wide selection of products are available for demonstration across six floors. HISTORY The name Ginza is derived from an official organization established in 1612 whose purpose was to cast silver into coins for the then-ruling Tokugawa Bakufu, during the Edo era. The name stuck in the minds of the people and Ginza became the official area name in 1869. When largely destroyed in a massive fire that struck the area in 1872, the Tokyo governor at the time, Yuri Kimimasa, proposed to reconstruct the town using bricks in order to prevent further fires from taking their toll. Within five years, Ginza had largely changed into a Western-style neighborhood with countless

60 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

two-story brick buildings, a change that also facilitated it becoming the first Western-style shopping district in Tokyo. SHOPPING Ginza is home to some of the best department stores in Japan, as well as flagship boutiques of nearly every imaginable international and Japanese fashion and jewelry brand. Mitsukoshi is the oldest and most famous department store in Japan, and remains a popular shopping destination today. Across the street is the Wako department store, with its remarkable clock tower. It is known for its original, elegant, and stylish products as much as it is famed for the higher end and imported prestigious brands it provides to shoppers. GETTING THERE Ginza is one of the hubs of Tokyo’s transportation network, and is accessible by both subway and Japan Railways. By JR, disembarking at JR Yurakucho or Shimbashi Station provides an overland access route for those who don’t mind walking a little.

TSUKIJI Just a 10- to 15-minute walk from Ginza on Harumi-dori, Tsukiji is home to a world-famous wholesale market selling fish, fruits and vegetables. Regularly handling more than 2,000 tons of marine products per day, Tsukiji ranks at the top of world fish markets in every measurable category. It handles more than 400 different types of seafood, from sardines to golden brown dried sea slug caviar. Even if you are not planning to watch the exciting and renowned tuna auctions, it’s best to get to Tsukiji early—before 8am—to see the action. Just be sure to be aware of your surroundings and stay out of the way of vendors and those delivering products between the ships and the stalls, as tourists that impede or slow business transactions are understandably frowned upon. Tsukiji is one of few shopping spots in Tokyo where haggling is common and accepted. However, it is important to note that prices are already lower than the regional averages, so it’s best not to push the sellers too hard. A spattering of non-food items, such as handmade knives and ceramics, is also available. Tsukiji Fish Market is closed on alternate Wednesdays, as well as every Sunday. Sushi fanatics will tell you that it’s best to avoid eating sushi in Japan on Wednesdays, on the grounds that you risk getting the Tuesday leftovers. One of the most famous sushi bars in Japan—and perhaps the world—is Daiwa Sushi. Split into two neighboring stalls, this sushi bar regularly has a wait of over 30 minutes. There is no menu, and the ¥2,100 set includes the chef’s selection of about seven to eight nigiri zushi, one tuna roll, miso soup and tea.

KOKUSAI FORUM IN YURAKUCHO

DON'T MISS: • The Sony Building, where the company tests its latest products. • Yakitori Alley in nearby Hibiya, where old-style street cafés under the train tracks serve barbecued chicken on a stick with beer. • Ito-Ya, the city’s most famous stationery store, with a wide array of specialty papers, writing utensils, greeting cards and more. • Hama Rikyu, a former imperial garden with a teahouse in the middle of a lake. It’s also along the water bus route from from Asakusa. • Tokyo International Forum, an architectural gem featuring a lofty, nautical-inspired glass and steel design. • Hakuhinkan, one of Tokyo’s biggest toy stores. • The famous Kabuki-za theater, which was recently rebuilt and opened to the public in April 2013.

THE NEW KABUKI-ZA

Ginza’s Historical Kabuki Theater Reborn

By Stephen Parker A visit to Kabuki-za is a must for both visitors to and residents of Tokyo. The theater, located in the upscale shopping district of Ginza, has been entertaining audiences with performances of the quintessentially Japanese dance-drama since 1889. With the reopening of the theater earlier this year, now is the perfect time to get acquainted with one of Japan’s most important cultural assets. Kabuki-za has gone through a few incarnations over the years; in 1921 the original wooden building was destroyed by a fire and was mid-way through reconstruction when the devastating 1923 Kanto earthquake struck. The rebuilt theater, designed in a classical style, was remodeled in 1950 with up-to-date features such as electric lights. In 2010 the building was demolished once again to make way for a newer and safer theater. The new Kabuki-za, designed by Kengo Kuma and Associates, opened on April 2, 2013. The theater includes 1,808 seats, a gallery space dedicated to the history of kabuki, upgraded audio systems, improved access for disabled people, and cutting-edge building techniques to protect against earthquakes. Unlike the original theater, the new Kabuki-za also includes a new addition, a 29-floor office tower, which is sure to bring extra revenue to the company that owns it. After all, this is one of the most sought-after real estate locations in Tokyo.

4-12-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3541-3131 Nearest station: Higashi-Ginza Tickets: ¥4,000–¥22,000, depending on show and seating www.kabuki-za.co.jp

62 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

UNDERSTANDING KABUKI Many foreigners may be discouraged from watching a kabuki performance, as the subtle dance movements and monotone acting can be confusing. But even first-time, non-Japanese-speaking viewers need not worry, as LCD screens with English subtitles and story guides make understanding the 410-year-old performance art simple. The word kabuki translates as “sing, dance and skill,” hinting at what to expect from a show. Actors are famously all male, and perform in brightly colored clothes and heavy rice-powder makeup, accompanied by traditional instruments, almost like ukiyo-e pictures come to life. The main actor directs each play, and it’s not uncommon for the audience to shout at actors (who may even respond). Many plays are all-day programs, so a visit can be quite the outing. Thankfully food and drinks are available to enjoy during the intervals, and one-act tickets can be bought on the day for those looking for just a small taste of this traditional art. Most performances are split into five acts with many stories taken from folklore, oral tradition and Noh plays, covering everything from love, revenge, samurai tales and family ties. Pacing often starts off slowly, then rises to the finale. Kabuki theaters help heighten the viewing experience by utilizing elaborate stage technology such as trap doors and walkways. These innovations, which have been used since the Edo period, allow actors to appear and disappear in a flash, adding to the impact and emotion of the stories.

HISTORY OF KABUKI The original kabuki was performed by women troupes led by Izumo no Okuni on the dry riverbeds of Kyoto. Her unique style became so popular she was soon asked to perform at the Imperial Court. Due to a surge in popularity, rival theater groups appeared in the city’s red-light district, attracting vast numbers of people. The local theater soon became the place to gather and be seen. The surrounding shops sold souvenirs, while the bustling teahouses adjoining the theater offered food and drinks to the crowds. For these reasons, kabuki was at the center of popular culture in Japan for many years. The ruling shogunate eventually took a disliking to the overly erotic performances and the prostitution of performers (all actresses were available for hire), and banned women’s kabuki in 1629. In the decades that followed, all-male groups formed, with cross-dressing actors playing both male and female characters, a style most commonly associated with the art today. In the Meiji period when Japan’s capital was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo, the country entered a period of enormous and rapid social change. As Japan began to be influenced more by the West, so too did its art. The once rival Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) styles became more similar, and actors consciously made plays more refined and thus more respected by the establishment. In 1887 Emperor Meiji himself sponsored a performance. After World War II, occupying forces briefly banned kabuki, as it had been used to help support Japan’s war effort. The post-war era proved a challenging time, as not only were many theaters destroyed but also many actors rejected old-fashioned ideas and styles. Kabuki survived thanks to dedicated actors and directors such as Ganjiro Nakamura and Takechi Tetsuji, two Kansai natives credited with the rebirth of the art. Today, many actors cross over to roles in TV or film, reflecting just how mainstream kabuki has become. In 2002 a statue honoring kabuki’s founder Okuni was constructed opposite Minami-za, Kyoto’s last remaining theater, and in 2005 UNESCO added the art form to its Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists, giving it the global recognition it deserves.

Ariparis ARIPARIS skincare, founded by entrepreneur Asia Maeda is made to a secret formula here in Japan and is already causing a stir in the fashion hubs of Tokyo, Paris and Hong Kong. Available in both serum and cream, ARIPARIS contains four key ingredients proven to reduce the signs of ageing; gold, silver, amber and placenta. Sold entirely by word of mouth and never doing any promotion (until now), ARIPARIS is a unique cosmetics company that is growing fast. “I really want to empower women and make them happy,” says Maeda. “When you look your best, you really feel your best.” Maeda understands the power a small change can have on a persons’ well-being. After the March 11 tragedy, Maeda headed north to earthquake damaged areas and handed out boxes of cosmetics to families who had lost everything. “It was only a small effort

64 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

on my part but I saw a positive reaction in the people I met. It’s amazing what a small gift can do to cheer people up.” Back in Tokyo Maeda is continuing on her quest to empower women with live seminars and classes offering tips on every aspect of well being. “If Japan is to thrive, Japanese women need to take the lead,” she explains. “If women are independent and free, then they can find their own way, start their own business, or choose their own husband,” she says. Selling cosmetics may be an unusual way to help women, but Maeda is clearly passionate about her cause: “I want to make a good women’s community, it’s my mission to tell Japanese women that there is a different way to live. I want to spread my message like I spread my beauty product; by word of mouth.”

ARIPARIS skin serum and skin cream is available to purchase by appointment only: Tel: 03-3446-1891 Email: ariparisinfo@gmail.com Ariparis Skin Serum: • Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles • Revitalize your skin and diminish signs of aging • Stimulate the renewal of skin cells • Excellent antioxidant support Contains four key ingredients, made to a secret recipe in Japan. • Gold: To encourage skin turnover. • Silver: Antiseptic, helps reduce infections. • Amber: Deep skin penetration, enriching and moisturizing. • Placenta: Anti-aging, full of nutrients, minerals and antioxidants.

ASAKUSA FESTIVALS

ASAKUSA

Japan is a culture of legends, and Asakusa has its own rich history made up of both fact and fiction. Around a thousand years ago the Hirokuma brothers found a statue of Kannon in their fishing nets, and the village chief dutifully enshrined it. The Asakusa shrine was thus established in 1649, and the three people in the legend were consecrated as gods of the shrine, hereby earning it the nickname Sanja-sama (the shrine of the three gods). Senso-ji, also known as Kannon-sama, has a history that spans over 1,370 years. It is the oldest temple in the Tokyo metropolitan area, and is frequently visited by overseas travelers. The three-meter-high paper lantern that hangs in the gates has become the symbol of Asakusa and the Senso-ji shrine. It is located along Asakusa Street, and bears the characters Kaminari-mon (meaning â&#x20AC;&#x153;thunder gateâ&#x20AC;?). Most notable among the other historical buildings in the area is a five-story pagoda, which is the second highest pagoda in Japan. In addition, many annual events are held at Senso-ji, including Hari-Kuyou (a memorial service for old needles) in February, the Chinese lantern plant market in July, and a battledore market in December. Asakusa-jinja, located next to Senso-ji, is also the site of the famous Sanja Festival. Held in May, the festival is Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest and one of three that have been held continuously since the Edo era.

Stretching from Kaminari-mon to Senso-ji, the Nakamise shopping district is the oldest such surviving area in Japan, dating back to the 1700s. Among the approximate 300 meters of stores are structures that first opened during the Edo era and which still continue to serve the patrons of Nakamise to this day. Lining the streets of the Nakamise area, these treasures from an older era, along with their younger neighbors, offer numerous area specialties, including kaminari-okoshii (toasted rice patty snacks), ningyo-yaki (red bean filled pastries molded into various shapes), toys from the Edo era, tekisenbei (large circular rice crackers), and tortoise shell crafts. Intersecting the heart of Nakamise is Shin-Nakamise. Collectively, these two areas are home to more than 150 stores. In addition to the abundance of traditional crafts and foods, Nakamise also offers a glimpse into the heritage of Asakusa in a truly unique fashion; painted on the shutters of the stores is the Asakusa Picture Scroll, a sequence of scenes depicting the many festivals and events held in Asakusa. Designed by the Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music, the colorful shutters ensure that even after-hours visitors to Nakamise will be able to enjoy the rich history of the area.

MARUNOUCHI & The Imperial Palace By Elisabeth Lambert Sitting above Tokyo Station, Marunouchi is generally known as the financial district of Tokyo, with major banks and the Tokyo Stock Exchange situated in the area. However, the name Marunouchi literally means “inside the circle” and refers to the outer moat of the nearby Imperial Palace, so it’s no surprise to learn that the calm and quiet grounds of the Imperial Palace are within a few minutes’ walk of Tokyo Station. Located in the exact center of the city, the view when approaching the palace grounds is breathtaking. Greeted by a large wide moat bordering abrupt and commanding stone walls, it’s easy to get a sense of how dramatic and imposing this type of compound would have been in feudal Japan. Once known as Edo Castle, in November 1868 the emperor made it his new residence upon the Meiji Restoration and resulting surrender of the Shogunate. He renamed it Tokei Castle, before changing its name again in 1869 to the Imperial Castle. The original imperial castle was lost to a fire in 1873, and a new Imperial Palace Castle was built on the site in 1888. Again, the majority of the structures were destroyed in 1945 during the air raids of World War II, and it was from the basement of its concrete library that Emperor Showa declared Japan’s surrender on August 15, 1945. New buildings were constructed in the 1960s and renamed the Imperial Residence, before a portion of the grounds was opened to the public in 1968. Covering an area of 1.32 square miles, the grounds today incorporate the main palace, the private residences of the imperial family, administrative offices, an archive and a museum.

66 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 67 2012 2013

While the inner palace grounds are not open to the public, Kitanomaru Gardens, the East Gardens and Kyoko-gaien are popular areas for tourists and Tokyo residents to relax, whether it be via picnicking with family and friends, undertaking Tai Chi on the well-manicured lawns, or simply enjoying the feeling of soft, fresh grass underfoot. There is also a popular three-mile ‘Around the Imperial Palace’ jogging course that starts near Sakuradamon, and carries on around the inner moat of the Palace. It also takes runners past the Imperial Palace Public Square, Takebashi and the cherry tree-lined Chidorigafuchi, followed by the British Embassy, the National Theater, and the National Diet Building (for a map, see: www.city.chiyoda.tokyo.jp/english/e-guide/jogging). And every December 23 (the emperor’s birthday) and January 2 (New Year’s), public access is granted to the inner palace grounds to see the members of the imperial family, who make several public appearances— albeit behind bulletproof glass—on those days. Throughout the year, guided tours of the palace are available. Tours are in Japanese (an English pamphlet and audio guide are provided) and must be reserved in advance via the Imperial Household Agency (see www. kunaicho.go.jp). Opening Hours: Please note that last entry is half an hour before closing time. • March 1 to April 14: 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. • April 15 to August 31: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. • September 1 to October 31: 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. • November 1 to February 28/29: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Closed: • Every Monday and Friday (open on national holidays except the emperor’s birthday, December 23) • From December 28 to January 3 • In circumstances where it’s deemed necessary to close the gardens due to imperial court functions or other occasions.

Admission: Free at entry/exit points: Ote-mon Gate, Hirakawa-mon Gate and Kitahanebashi-mon Gate.

Closest Station: The main entrance is located at Ote-mon Gate near Otemachi Station (Chiyoda, Marunouchi, Tozai Metro lines)

MEIJI JINGU By Elisabeth Lambert Walking through the massive and imposing cypress torii that marks the entrance to Meiji Jingu, arguably Japan’s most famous Shinto shrine, is to encounter a side of Tokyo that is poles apart from the hubbub and commotion normally associated with the city. Surrounded by densely wooded grounds spanning 700,000 square meters, the few minutes’ walk it takes to reach the shrine complex seems to have a specific purpose: to allow visitors to shed the stresses of everyday life, and drink in the undeniable calm that takes over as the shrine draws near. And fittingly so, seeing as the shrine was erected as a way for the Japanese people to commemorate the virtues of Emperor Meiji, who died in 1912. His role in the Meiji Restoration, which saw the country reestablish imperial rule, was significant, with Meiji becoming the first Emperor of what is now recognized as modern Japan. Construction of the shrine commenced in 1915, and it was formally dedicated to the emperor on November 1, 1920.

The outer area of the shrine is known as the Gaien and incorporates the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery, a range of sporting facilities (such as the Meiji Jingu Gaien Stadium and Tokyo Olympic Stadium), and the Meiji Memorial Hall, which was initially employed for government meetings but is today utilized for Shinto weddings. Indeed, most weekends offer the chance to catch a glimpse of a priest, bride, groom and their relevant attendants, dressed in traditional wedding kimono and garments, making their way from the shrine to the hall. The shrine of course has religious importance within the Japanese Shinto faith, and specific spiritual holidays and events on the Japanese calendar, such as New Year, Coming of Age Day (January), Children’s Festival (May) and the Tanabata (Star) Festival (July) provide a great occasion to experience Japanese customs and traditions firsthand. Its expansive setting is also seen as a place for both recreation and relaxation among locals and tourists alike.

Yet in 1945 Meiji Jingu suffered the same fate as many other structures in Tokyo, when its original buildings were destroyed during World War II air raids of the city. After a conscientious public fundraising effort, Meiji Shrine was rebuilt, with restoration concluding in 1958.

In fact, the serene forest that greets visitors to Meiji Shrine today was the result of a true labor of love for the Japanese people. When building of the shrine initially began, people from all over Japan donated trees, which were painstakingly planted by volunteers to create the striking woodland. Today, over 245 different species of trees grow in the shrine’s grounds.

The shrine itself is actually made up of two major areas, known as the Naien and the Gaien. The Naien refers to the inner area, which is centered on the shrine buildings and includes a museum that houses items belonging to the emperor and empress.

Whether looking for a beautiful and unique tourist experience with fantastic photo opportunities, or an easy-to-access sanctuary in which to gather thoughts and take five from the grind of Tokyo city life, a visit to Meiji Jingu will undoubtedly impart a sense of enlightenment.

BUSINESS VIEW What Makes a Good Leader? By Greg Story Doing more, faster, better and with less drives our business lives. To survive and to prosper, we arm ourselves with knowledge. We go to business school, get our academic passport stamped, and get started on our climb to the top. Those who are successful are recognized by the corporation for their individual contributions, and promoted to a position of leverage and leadership. Most people would say this is a good thing. The difficulty with leverage, though, is it can be tricky, especially when applied to people. Memorizing theories, writing research papers, and reading case studies doesn’t prepare us for the reality of the human condition. The challenges that result from being human are diverse and unexpected, even down to the hour of the day. Perhaps an employee had an argument with his or her significant other this morning, or has a child or parent who became ill this afternoon, or is worried about his or her financial position at market close. Consequently, the employee’s concentration is shot to pieces. The textbooks don’t teach us how to react to these parts of the puzzle. Working efficiently requires discipline, but sometimes people get distracted and mistakes arise. So the question becomes, how can workers and managers best avoid mistakes without killing motivation? Particularly in Japan, it is relatively straightforward to get people to follow directions if you’re in a position of power—most employees here wouldn’t dare question authority. But what is much more difficult is fostering passion, commitment, innovation, excitement, loyalty, and dedication among the team. Giving orders and pulling rank are the refuge of incompetent leaders. But what, instead, makes a leader stand out? Technical skills get us to a position to be able to execute work within our individual capabilities. The reward for that is being given responsibility to leverage the capacity of others in our team. While one workaholic may work 15 hours a day, five average workers will put in a total of 40 hours a day. The obvious point about leverage is how to get that larger 40-hour block of available time to produce at maximum effectiveness. Two simple principles from Dale Carnegie address ways of dealing with the day-to-day challenges that can affect the efficiency of a team, moving the needle from reluctant, disgruntled compliance to enthusiastic, willing cooperation. The first is, “Ask questions instead of giving direct orders.” This sounds simple enough, but we have all been educated differently. We have bosses who fire out orders like a machine gun. We expect to be told what to do, not to suggest what we should do. So the challenge is to overcome our own bias toward giving orders, as well as our Japanese team’s bias toward passively following orders. This can be easier said than done, so it’s important not to be too tough on yourself if you make a few missteps when trying these principles for the first time. Also, give your team some margin to get used to this novel

68 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

approach. When the desire to give orders bubbles up automatically from within, resist the urge. Instead, mentally intervene and switch your statement from, “I want you to do this” to, “what do you think we should do about this?” Don’t expect answers to instantly gush forth. Japanese subordinates may be shocked at being consulted, puzzled by this deviation from orthodoxy or suspicious of your motives. After asking the question, remain absolutely silent—do not attempt to fill the vacuum with sound from your side. Just smile and wait. If you get a reply such as “I don’t know,” mention you are not sure what is best either, that is why you are consulting with them. Ask them what, in their experience so far, has worked well? Again, revert to tomb-like silence and wait. Patience will be rewarded, and eventually they will venture forth with a modest and “safe” suggestion. It may need some additional ideas they haven’t considered, but keep the focus of ownership of the ideas with them and not with you. Instead of leaping in with the other items you want, ask them what they think about this or that alternative. Again, ask and then seal your lips together so you can’t speak. Bite your tongue if you have to, but wait for their response. Be sure to get their ownership of the idea every time. Having gotten them to suggest what needs to be done, allow them to carry out the task, but intervene regularly. Intervene with praise. Use the second Dale Carnegie principle, “Praise the slightest improvement and praise every improvement. Be hearty in your approbation and lavish in your praise.” This is another simple idea, and yet it gets so rarely used. Think about the last time you received any recognition, let alone hearty approbation or lavish praise. It is an even rarer occurrence in Japan. Praise is in short supply in the business world, and it certainly isn’t taught in textbooks. Given how motivating, loyalty enhancing, and cooperation creating this activity is, you might wonder if business schools might not rethink what they are actually doing to prepare us for the real world. But it’s not likely that change will occur anytime soon, so make the change in yourself instead. The praise must be real and sincere. We are all experts in detecting counterfeit praise, especially Japanese staff who grow up with concepts such as the ubiquitous “tatemae” (superficial reality). Find something they are doing well, and immediately recognize it. Become the boss who looks for good rather than for mistakes. When you find something good, specify exactly what made it good. “Great job” sounds nice, but it is not convincing. Which part of the many things your team has been plugging away at was the good bit? Pick that out and articulate it. This makes it credible and convincing. Good behavior once praised gets repeated, and that is the mark of a good leader. Dr. Greg Story, President of Dale Carnegie Training Japan, is a 28-year veteran of Japan. A prolific writer and speaker, he saves leaders time and tears by offering insights into being successful in business in Japan. Send your questions or comments to greg.story@dalecarnegie.com.

70 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

REFERENCE GUIDE

TV SERVICES GETTING TV SERVICE

SATELLITE TV SKY PERFECTV!

There are 12 channels of publicly broadcast TV in Tokyo, including the government-owned NHK channels. Since most of the programming is exclusively in Japanese (although some news programs are broadcast with English translations) it may not be very entertaining for non-Japanese speakers. Fortunately, there is a selection of cable, optical fiber, and satellite service providers in Japan that provide access to a wide variety of international programming.

The other option for expanded TV programming is satellite TV service. The dominant provider is SKY PerfecTV! which includes SKY PerfecTV! and SKY PerfecTV! e2. Both are direct broadcast satellite services (DBS) . If your building is older than two years, you will probably need to set up and install a small SKY PerfecTV! satellite dish on your balcony. It is necessary to install the satellite dish in such a way that it has an unobstructed view of the sun between 1 and 2 p.m. on a fine day toward the southwest. Placing the dish on the roof of your building may require the building owner’s permission. It may be difficult to install the dish yourself, so it is often better to arrange to have a professional install it for you. In some cases newer buildings will already have a dish on the roof for SKY PerfecTV! and you will just have to buy a tuner, which costs around ¥8,800 to ¥10,800. A tuner and dish will cost ¥6,825 to ¥13,125. You can purchase these items at any major electronics store and installation will cost about ¥10,000 to ¥15,000. Out of the total 290 channels SKY PerfecTV! offers, about 48 are English channels, but these will depend on which plan you have. For more information: www.skyperfectv.co.jp/en/guide/welcome/

CABLE TV SERVICE PROVIDERS About 80 percent of the buildings in Tokyo are already connected to cable TV (CATV), but in the rare cases where the building is not connected it might be difficult to install CATV. This is an important point to confirm when searching for your new apartment. For more information: www.jcom.co.jp/services/tv/course.html Each ward or city has its own cable TV service provider. The channels and packages offered by each company are quite similar. The cable service providers offer a choice of about seven to ten English and Japanese bilingual channels and 40 to 50 specialty channels. There are two set packages of channels to choose from, with some optional channels you can add to each. The monthly rate is about ¥4,400 to ¥6,000 for a package of channels, depending where you live and which package you choose. Some of the major international channels available include Fox, Star Channel (movies), CNN, The Discovery Channel, The History Channel, and MTV.

CABLE TV SETUP 1. Call your local cable company and have them send an application form. 2. Fill in all the details and choose your package and optional channels. You will have to specify payment by credit card or direct bank payment. 3. In about three to seven days, someone from the cable company will come and install the cable. You will have to designate a room for the cable to be installed. Basically it is one line and one tuner for one TV (you won’t be able to see cable TV in every room that has a TV jack; only the jacks that the cable TV person has installed).

Some of the channels available include the Golf Channel, J Sports 1+2+3, Sports-I, ESPN, Cinefil Imagica, Star Channel Multiplex, Movie Plus, Cartoon Network, Discovery Channel, Animax, Disney, Bloomberg, Fox, CNN, and BBC.

OPTICAL FIBER BROADCASTING TV SERVICE Fiber optic TV (or Hikari TV as it is called) is the most high tech option for TV service in Japan and is often bundled together with internet (and possibly IP phone) for more reasonable rates. SkyPerfecTV Hikari HD (Flet’s TV Plan): Initial fee ¥2,940 Monthly fee approximately ¥6,000 SkyPerfecTV Hikari HD (Apartment Plan) Initial fee ¥2,940 Monthly fee approximately ¥5,000 Some of the available channels include the Golf Network, J Sports 1+2+3 HD, Cinefil Imagica, Movie Plus HD, Cartoon Network, Discovery Channel, Animax, Disney, the History Channel, Fox HD, Fox Crime HD, CNNj, and the National Geographic Channel.

TV SERVICES (Continued)

INTERNET

THE DIGITAL TV ERA

Types of Internet Service

ADSL

In 2003, TV Japan entered a new era of digital television as part of the transition from analog broadcasting to nationwide digital by July 2011. The new digital broadcasting offers better graphic quality (digital high vision), better sound, subtitles and audio guidance. If you are new to Japan or haven’t made the leap to digital yet, expect to spend some money on compatible hardware to get setup for the 2011 changeover. Access to digital broadcasting requires cable or satellite television services, a digital broadcasting tuner, and in some cases a UHF antenna. Many televisions already have built-in digital broadcasting tuners so only a UHF antenna may be needed. UHF antennas can be purchased at most electronics shops, (prices are about ¥3,000 to ¥8,000). Some TV’s (especially analog-only TVs), however, will require a separate digital tuner, which costs about ¥20,000. Japan successfully made the switch to digital TV in March 2012. The Association for Promotion of Digital Broadcasting offers more information on its website at www.dpa.or.jp/english/index.html.

Whether you want to surf the internet for business or pleasure, this is one of the things you will probably want to get set up as soon as possible. You will need to choose an ISP (internet service provider) and the type of connection you would like to use. Other than dial-up, ISDN connection, or wireless PC Cards (which are very expensive and slow), there are basically three ways to connect: ADSL, Cable, and Hikari Fiber.

ADSL (Asymmetric Digital Subscriber Line) is similar to DSL in the US and is by far the most widely used service in Japan. ADSL is relatively cheap when compared with other services, and faster than both dial-up and ISDN. ADSL services come in many speed offerings, up to speeds of about 50mb/s. ADSL actually uses an analog line, which is split and allows you to surf the internet and make calls at the same time. When having ADSL installed, you will need to specify to NTT which room or rooms you want to have connected, for not all jacks in your apartment will necessarily be an internet connection.

Cable TV & Internet Service Providers Shinagawa Cable TV www.cts.ne.jp (Japanese only) ITS Communications Shibuya, Meguro, Setagaya, Shinagawa & Ota wards www.itscom.net/en (English site) JCOM www.jcom.co.jp/english/ services.html (English site) Minato Cable & Shinjuku Cable TV www.cabletv.co.jp/english/ cms/information (English site)

72 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

Cable Modem Cable internet service can be very fast, depending on the network you connect to. The speeds vary from 3mb to 50mb/s. Cable modems are great for streaming content such as video or internet radio, as they are quite stable. It can be cheaper if you buy a package with cable TV and internet bundled together. When having your cable internet installed, you will need to specify which room or rooms you want to have connected, for not all jacks in your apartment will necessarily be an internet connection unless requested. For more information: www.jcom.co.jp/english/pricing.html

How to Apply for Cable Internet If your building is already wired for internet cable service (most newer buildings are), getting the service is quite easy. You need only contact your local cable company, fill out an application, and wait for installation. Note: If your building already has this service this process usually takes a few days to one week. • Initial fee to get cable internet ¥5,000 to ¥6,000 • Initial fee to get cable TV and internet ¥5,000 to ¥6,000 • Cable internet package ¥2.980 to ¥6,000 per month • Cable internet and TV package about ¥6.000 to ¥10,000 per month

How to Apply for ADSL 1. Contact your provider and ask for an ADSL application form or use an online form. 2. Choose your desired speed and send the application form back online, by fax, or by regular mail. The provider will then send you a password and ID by post. 3.

The provider will send you a modem.

4. The provider will send you the date that your internet service will start. On that date you simply connect the modem to your PC. Note: this process usually takes about two weeks, depending on the provider. • Initial fee to get ADSL ¥4,000 to ¥7,000 • ADSL Internet package ¥2,000 to ¥3,000 per month

Hikari Fiber Fiber-optic or “Hikari Fiber” as it’s known in Japan, is the current speed king. Having a fiberoptic system installed in your home will require that you contact your building owner, and a hikari provider to see if your area has access to the service. While dial-up, ADSL and cable use existing lines, hikari fiber is a relatively new system, and one that has not been implemented widely. The fiberoptic network for this service is provided by TEPCO (Tokyo Electric Power Company). One great benefit of using hikari fiber is that your line will nearly always be stable. You can expect consistent transfer times, and incredibly fast loading times of up to 100mb/s on the internet.

CARS How to Apply for Hikari-Fiber

IP Phone

DRIVING IN JAPAN

Basically the setup process is very similar to ADSL and cable, but you will need to check with your building management and a provider first to see if this service is available in your building.

Another option which has become quite popular is to have an IP phone account set up with your internet provider or NTT. This service allows for calls to be made through the internet using a regular house phone. The calls are routed through an IP phone capable modem instead of using the Public Switched Telephone Network (PSTN). In the case of NTT’sFlet’sHikariopticalfiberservice,youcanexpect the same type of phone numbers (such as 03-XXXXXXXX), a lower monthly fee, and a lower calling rate compared to standard analog phone service.

Driving in Japan can be difficult for foreigners who are used to driving on the other side of the road or following different rules. In Japan, driving is the same as Australia, Britain, and some other European countries. Drivers sit on the right side and drive on the left side of the road. Basically, the road signs and rules follow international standards, and fortunately most signs on major roads and highways are in both Japanese and English. Drivers must be at least 18 years of age or older to legally drive in Japan.

Note: Many of the newest buildings in central Tokyo already have this network and service available, so getting setup is quite easy. If your building already has this service, this process usually takes between one week to one month to have installed. • Initial fee to get hikari fiber approximately ¥800 to ¥3,000 • Hikari fiber internet package about ¥3,000 to ¥5,000 per month • Hikari-Fiber internet and TV package about ¥7,000 to ¥10,000 per month

PHONE There are basically two types of telephone line services in Japan. One is a standard traditional analog phone line service and the other is IP phone service.

ANALOG PHONE LINE Japan’s fixed line system traditionally required the purchase of a phone line (technically speaking a “right” to install a phone). This non-refundable right is, however, transferable for a small fee and trades at a significant discount through brokers or agents. As such, few people will actually purchase it directly from NTT (Nippon Telegraph and Telephone), which charges significantly for the new line or right. You also have the option of buying a line directly from a broker or at an online auction or renting a line from NTT for ¥800 per month on top of your regular phone bill.

NTT Analog Telephone Service Required Fees (For Individual Application) • NTT activation fee ¥2,940 to ¥15,750 • NTT monthly fee ¥2,940 Note: • It takes approximately seven days to activate after your application. • NTT installation fee will be ¥2,800 if there is no need to visit your residence for activation. • Calling fees will be charged separately. • Prices shown above are including tax. NTT IP Telephone Service (Hikari Denwa) Required Fees (If using Flet’s Hikari Apartment Type) • NTT activation fee is free if you activate at the same time as Flet’s Hikari service, ¥1,050 if you activate independently • NTT monthly fee ¥997 (including IP phone router rental cost) Note: • It takes approximately seven days to activate after your application. • You will need to have Flet’s Hikari optical fiber service in order to use this service. • Calling fees will be charged separately. • With this service, you cannot make calls to prefix numbers starting from “00”. • If you have a security system or built-in phone system, please check the compatibility in advance. • Prices shown above include tax,

DRIVING COSTS Relative to the cost of living, buying a car is not that expensive in Japan. In the homeland of Toyota, Honda and Nissan there are many deals on used and new cars. Owning and maintaining a car is the expensive part due to the mandatory inspections (shaken), insurance every two to three years, automobile taxes, high parking costs in cities, expensive tolls on highways, and the high price of gasoline, (about ¥105/ liter). Getting a driver’s license can also be quite expensive due to the mandatory driver’s education course.

BUYING CARS Due to many local regulations and taxes, buying a car in Japan can be a bit painful. However, you will enjoy the wide selection of Japanese and imported cars. Dealers in Japan normally show only the base price for the car, but the actual “on-the-road” cost will go up as additional mandatory charges are added on top of it. Shaken is the Japanese vehicle inspection system, which is a series of tax payments. The first shaken inspection and payment is valid for three years on new cars, after it must be paid every two years.

Getting a Driver’s License Foreign residents who already have a valid driver’s license from their own country can drive for up to one year in Japan with an international driver’s license. International driving permits must be obtained in your home country, usually through the national Automobile Association before coming to Japan. However, Japan only recognizes international driving permits from countries on the Geneva Convention of 1949. Therefore, international driving permits from some countries, such as France, Germany and Switzerland, are not valid in Japan. Instead, foreign residents with driving permits from these countries can drive in Japan for up to

AIR

CARS (Continued)

one year with an official Japanese translation of their driving licenses from their respective embassies or consulates in Japan. Foreigners who reside in Japan for more than one year and wish to continue to drive in Japan must convert their driver’s license into a Japanese license by getting a translation of their country’s license and or by taking an eye exam, aptitude test and possibly a practical exam. Residents from the UK, Australia, New Zealand, France or other European countries are exempt from the tests and can change their driver’s license easily. Residents from the US or some other countries have to take a written and practical driving exam to change their license into a Japanese one. For more information about Japanese driver’s licenses see www.japandriverslicense.com.

NECESSARY DOCUMENTS & FEES 1.

Alien registration card

One 3 x 2.4cm photo

Passport

Valid driver’s license from your home country

5. Japanese translation of your original license from the Japan Automobile Federation. For this you will need a photocopy of the front and back of your driver’s license and, in the case of most countries, your alien registration card. The translation costs ¥3,000 and can be done at the JAF or by post. 6.

Fee of ¥4,150

For more information: www.jaf.or.jp/e/membership_s.htm JAF is an organization that provides 24-hour road service throughout the year. If your car breaks down or you lock your keys inside, you can easily contact JAF for help. The JAF annual membership fee is about ¥4,000. JAF Regional Headquarters 2-2-17 Shiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-6833-9000 To download the application form and get more information, see www.jaf.or.jp/e/switch.htm. The book “Rules of the Road” is an easy to read English translation of the actual rules of the road in Japan prepared by the National Public Safety Commission. It is available from JAF offices for about ¥1,000.

74 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

RENTING A CAR IN JAPAN

AIRPORTS IN TOKYO

Renting a car is usually an economical option, especially if you are planning to explore rural Japan and are traveling in groups. To rent and drive a car in Japan you need a Japanese driving license or an international driving permit. Some of Japan’s leading car rental companies are Japaren, Mazda Rentacar, Nissan Rentacar, Toyota Rentalease, Nippon Rentacar and Orix Rentacar. They operate hundreds of outlets across Japan, offering cars in all sizes and, in some cases, large vans, buses and RVs. Note: Most Japanese car rental companies do not provide English websites or service in English.

There are two airports serving the greater Tokyo area. Haneda Airport (HND), formally known as Tokyo International Airport, is by far Japan’s busiest airport handling most of the Tokyo’s domestic flights. It has three terminals, and is located about 30 minutes south of central Tokyo. Narita Airport (NRT), once known as New Tokyo International Airport, is a major international gateway and handles almost all of the international flights for the capital city. It has two terminals and is located in the city of Narita in Chiba Prefecture, about 60 km northwest of Tokyo.

TYPICAL COSTS FOR RENTING CARS

INTERNATIONAL & DOMESTIC AIRFARE

• • • • •

Small or compact cars: about ¥6,000/day Mid-sized cars: about ¥10,000/day Full-sized cars: about ¥15,000/day Prices include a mandatory insurance fee. Rates are usually higher during peak seasons.

Tocoo Club is a recommended budget car rental service that offers online discounts and has service in English. For more information: www2.tocoo.jp/english

TOLLS & ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) One of the major expenses about driving in Japan is the highway tolls. Even the Metropolitan Expressways from Tokyo to the neighboring suburbs are toll-roads costing about ¥700. Tolls must be paid in cash, highway ticket or coupon at the time of entry or departure from the expressway. There is also an ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) system in place at most tolls, which has reduced congestion in these areas. The system requires the driver to have an ETC compatible credit card and a wireless transmitter. The table to the right shows distances and approximate costs for a regular vehicle between selected major cities. Rates are lower for light vehicles and motorcycles, while rates are higher for trucks, buses and trailers.

HIGHWAYS A highway network of over 7,000 kilometers covers Japan’s four main islands and Okinawa. Foreign visitors should find it relatively easy to use Japanese highways, since all the important signs are written in both Japanese and English. The speed limit for passenger cars is usually 100 km/h.

Fortunately, international flights to and from Japan have been getting cheaper in recent years due to increasing competition between airlines. However, to avoid the crowds and the most expensive ticket fares you should try to fly outside the peak seasons, which include Christmas and New Years, Golden Week (the end of April beginning of May), and the summer holidays of July and August (especially during the Japanese Obon holiday in mid to late August). Similarly flights within Japan have been getting cheaper and cheaper (if you fly outside the peak seasons). In some cases, flying is now a cheaper option than taking the Shinkansen (bullet train).

GETTING TO AND FROM NARITA AIRPORT Perhaps most comfortable and convenient way to get to and from Tokyo Station is the JR Narita Express (NEX) – there are departures every 30 to 60 minutes and it takes approximately one hour. NEX‘s newest cars have electronic displays showing train stops and flight information in Japanese, English, Chinese and Korean. All seats are also equipped with electrical outlets and wireless Internet connections, (UQ Wi-Fi or BB Mobile Point subscription required). For more information: www.jreast.co.jp/nex/car/index.html

TRAIN Access to Narita Airport All seats are reserved and the one-way fare between Narita Airport and Tokyo Station costs about ¥3,200. For more information: www.jreast.co.jp/e/nex/ The JR Sobu Line, (Rapid Service), is a bit slower but cheaper alternative to the Narita Express – it takes about 90 minutes from Narita Airport to Tokyo Station and costs ¥1,280 for the one way journey. Departures are usually about one per hour. In July 2010, Keisei Railway started a new train service called ‘Narita Sky Access’ which is now the fastest way to get to and from Narita. The new ‘Narita Sky Access’ makes the trip from Narita to Nippori (north of Tokyo station) in just 36 minutes and costs about ¥2,400. Departures are usually every 20 to 30 minutes. For more information: www.keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetudou/skyliner/us/ Limousine buses to Tokyo Station or Shinjuku depart Narita Airport every 15 to 20 minutes. The one-way journey takes about 80 to 100 minutes and costs about ¥3,000. In many cases buses connect to or pickup passengers at major hotels. Considering all the other much cheaper, faster, and more convenient ways to get to and from the airport, taking a taxi is not a viable option. Depending on traffic, it could take up to two hours and cost as much as ¥15,000 or more.

Japan’s railway system includes the Japan Railway (JR) nationwide network, some private railways, and the subways in major urban areas.

TOKYO’S SUBWAY SYSTEM

The Shinkansen is one of the world’s fastest and safest trains and covers the main island of Honshu via all the major cities, (especially Tokyo). The first Shinkansen, over 40 years ago, was the world’s first high speed train running at speeds of about 200km/h. Today, the Shinkansen reaches speeds of over 300km/h and has extended its service to almost all parts of the four major islands of Japan.

Compared to some other major cities, Tokyo’s subway system may be a bit expensive, but it is very highly developed, convenient, and runs with ultimate precision. This makes it one of the best ways to get around, even for newcomers. Tokyo’s subway system is basically operated by the Toei Subway with 4 lines, and Tokyo Metro (formerly known as Eidan Subways), operating 8 lines. Together these two systems service Tokyo with a dense network of subways. The area inside the circular Yamanote line and around Ginza is especially close-knit with one or more train stations never more than 500 meters away.

THE SHINKANSEN HONSHU DIVISIONS

JR TRAIN LINES IN TOKYO

Osaka, (Tokaido line), Aomori (Tohoku line), Yamagata (Yamagata line), Akita (Akita line), Niigata (Joetsu line), Nagano (Nagano Line). The Shinkansen operating on these different networks have a variety of express trains, which stop at different stations and frequencies. The trains operating on the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen are of the following three categories:

If you planning to tour around Tokyo for a day there are a variety of money-saving tickets and day passes available which are valid for the calendar day that they are purchased.

SHINKANSEN (BULLET TRAIN)

• Nozomi: Nozomi are the fastest trains, which stop only at the most important stations, and reach Osaka from Tokyo in about two and a half hours. The Nozomi is one of the very few trains on the JR network that cannot be used with the Japan Rail Pass. • Hikari: Hikari trains stop a little bit more frequently than Nozomi trains, and need roughly three hours to reach Osaka from Tokyo. On the Sanyo Shinkansen, the Hikari trains are known as “Hikari Railstar”. • Kodama: The slowest category. Kodama trains stop at all stations.

JAPAN RAILWAYS (JR) The Japan Railway group is actually made up of six regional railway companies, (JR Hokkaido, JR East, JR Central, JR Shikoku, and JR Kyushu), which operate a nationwide network of urban, regional, and interregional train lines, night trains, and bullet trains, (Shinkansen). There are 5 major JR lines in Central Tokyo: Yamanote Line, Keihin Tohoku Line, Chuo/ Sobu Line, Chuo Line, Saikyo/ Rinkai Line Other Railway Companies: Tokyu Railways, Tobu Railways, Seibu Railways, Keio Railways, Odakyu Railways, Keisei Railways, Keikyu Railways.

• Tokyo Free Kippu (about ¥1,580) - Unlimited use of all Toei and Tokyo Metro subway lines, and JR lines in central Tokyo for one day. • Toei and Tokyo Metro One-Day Economy Pass (about ¥1,000) - Unlimited use of all Toei and Tokyo Metro subway lines for one day. • Tokyo Metro One-Day Open Ticket (about ¥710) - Unlimited use of all Toei and Tokyo Metro subway lines for one day. This covers only 8 of Tokyo’s 12 lines. • Toei One-Day Economy Pass (about ¥700) - Unlimited use of all Toei subway lines, buses, and streetcars for one day. This covers only 4 of Tokyo’s 12 lines • Holiday Pass (about ¥2,300) - Unlimited use of all local and rapid JR trains in the greater Tokyo area for one day. This includes Yokohama and Kamakura and can only be used on weekends and public holidays. Prepaid cards don’t include a discount but are quite convenient because you don’t have to buy a ticket every time you take the train. • Passnet Cards (about ¥1,000, ¥3,000, ¥5,000) - Prepaid cards purchased at ticket vending machines that can be used on almost all subway and JR trains. The fare is automatically deducted from the card each time it is used. • Suica (from ¥500 and up) - Prepaid cards purchased at ticket vending machines that can be used on all JR in the Tokyo area. It uses a sensor which quickly reads your card when going through the ticket gates. The fare is automatically deducted from the card each time it is used and can be recharged again after each time it has been fully used.

BANKING BANKING IN JAPAN

CHECKS & CREDIT CARDS

For the most part Japan is still a cash- based society – most everyday payments are made in cash. However, frequently retail shops or restaurants will accept credit cards, and some may even have debit card readers, which automatically withdraw money from your account. To be safe though, you should always be prepared to pay cash while shopping, and you will need a bank account, which allows frequent withdrawals in convenient locations. Bank accounts are available for individuals and businesses at Japanese banks or post offices, which are usually open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday. Everyday bank accounts usually pay interest, but the rates are so low that you may not notice. If you want to use your money to make more money, you may need to move it out of Japan, or at least into an account at a foreign-based bank. Citibank has the largest branch and ATM network of the foreign based banks in Japan, otherwise not many foreign banks currently provide retail banking services. Citibank also allows you to use overseas issued Citibank cards at ATMs in Japan, and use cards issued in Japan overseas to withdraw money in the local currency.

Checks are not used in Japan. The most common service used for large payments is an account-to-account transfer (furikomi). For purchases at shops, however, cash is your only option if you do not have a credit card. The major credit cards used in Japan are VISA, Mastercard, Diners Club, American Express, JACCS, Saison, and JCB. To apply for credit cards in Japan you will need the same information as when you apply for a bank account. Only international ATMs found in post offices, major department stores and airports accept foreign credit and debit cards.

OPENING A BANK ACCOUNT Bankaccountsatmajorbanksorthepostoffice are available for individuals and companies, (there are no joint accounts in Japan). Quite often people in Japan have two (or more) accounts, an account at a regular bank and a second account with the post office. The latter arrangement can be useful if you want to access the full range of transfer and payment services offered in the post office system. In order to open an account at a Japanese bank, you will need to present your alien registration Card, (foreigners staying in Japan for more than 90 days must apply for this), and your hanko or inkan, (personal seal or stamp). Your signature will be an adequate substitute for a seal on most occasions, but life in Japan will be smoother if you have one. Personal seals, (inkan; hanko), are stamps bearing your name or the name of your company, and serve the same purpose as a personal signature on official documents. Most people have more than one: a seal for everyday use, and a ‘bank’ seal. Everyday seals are sold in a variety of locations, usually wherever you find pens and other stationery. They are often self-inking and are generally machine- made. ‘Bank’ seals are sold at special seal carvers’ shops,and are always hand carved, (this makes them individually identifiable like personal signatures).

76 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

EVERYDAY BANKING – ATMS You can take care of most of your everyday banking at automatic teller machines (ATM) and cash dispensers (CD). At ATMs one can pay, withdraw, deposit and transfer money (furikomi), while at CDs it is usually only possible to withdraw money. Some ATMs and CDs are unavailable on weekends and during the night, but the number of 24 hour ATMs is increasing. The machines found in convenience stores, for example, are often available around the clock. With a few exceptions, ATMs and CDs function just like bank machines in any country. They usually feature a touch sensitive screen to select the kind of transaction, and input cash amounts and personal information. Above the screen, there are slots to insert your cash card and your bankbook, and a sliding door, which will retract to reveal cash or allow you to insert cash. Some ATMs are in Japanese only, so you may need to ask for help with your first transactions.

Specialized remittance services are the most efficient way to send money overseas. The cheapest service is offered by Lloyds TSB Bank, (¥2,000). Citibank offers commission-free remit- tances only to account holders who maintain an account balance of over ¥20,000,000; otherwise it’s ¥3,500.

Some Major Japanese & Foreign Banks: Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ www.bk.mufg.jp/english/ HSBC www.hsbc.co.jp/1/2/home Citibank www.citibank.co.jp/en/ Mizuho Bank www.mizuhobank.co.jp/english/ Sumitomo Mitsui Banking Corporation www.smbc.co.jp/global/ Shinsei Bank www.shinseibank.com/english/

POST

OVERSEAS REMITTANCE If you want to send money to a foreign country on a regular basis, there are basically two types of remittance services: Registered Mail - send a Bank Check from your local bank, (¥2,500 to ¥5,000), or Postal Money Order from a post office, (¥1,000 going up in increments of ¥500 according to the amount), via registered mail. Note: Sending money by registered mail is good for small amounts but takes 6 to 14 days. Electronic Transfer – send your money to an overseas account via telegraphic transfer (TT) from a bank or the Post Office, (¥2,000 to ¥7,000). Note: Sending money electronically is fast, (up to 2 business days), and secure but may be costly depending on the surcharges from overseas intermediary banks.

The Japanese postal system was privatized in early 2007, but most of the services offered have remained relatively the same. Most post offices are open between 9:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m., Monday through Friday. Large central post offices are also open on the weekends. It is common to find dropoff mailboxes outside some convenience stores.

INTERNATIONAL MAIL Perhaps the best method, and most widely used international parcel service is EMS (Express Postal Tracking). EMS service allows you to track your parcels as you ship them to most countries around the world. Other notable options are as follows: • Express Mail (sokutatsu) - from ¥270 - write “Express” in red ink in the top left corner of your item and it will be sent immediately after reaching the post office.

DOMESTIC TIPS • Priority delivery Registered Mail (kakitome) - from ¥420 (may be insured) - special registered mail cash envelopes (genkin kakitome futo) are available for sending money. • Surface Mail (funabin -sea mail) • SAL (Surface Airlifted) - delivery within two to three weeks. This is cheaper than airmail and faster than surface mail. • Airmail (kokubin) - delivery within three to eight days.

POSTAL SAVINGS ACCOUNTS It is possible to set up a Postal Savings account at almost any post office in Japan. Postal savings is a very secure way to save you money. You’ll need you Alien Registration Card and your passport or other accepted Picture ID to open an account. Expect to wait up to two weeks to receive your cash card, which you will then be able to use at any post office and many ATM’s across Japan.

DOMESTIC MAIL The Japanese postal service has several classes of mail. The normal charge for a letter is ¥80, a postcard is ¥50, and a return-paid postcard is ¥100. Here are some of the other domestic mail services: • Letters (tegami) • Standard letters - no thicker than 1cm & between 9 x 14cm and 12 x 23.5cm in size. *under 25 grams - ¥80 *under 50 grams - ¥90 • Non-standard letters - ¥120 for 50 grams or less, and ¥1,350 for a maximum of 4kg. • Mini Letter (yubin shokan) - only thin materials to be included (e.g. piece of paper, photo) ¥60 (maximum 25 grams). • Express Mail (sokutatsu) - from ¥270. • Priority delivery Registered Mail (kakitome) - from ¥420 (may be insured). Special registered mail cash envelopes (genkin kakitome futo) are available for sending money. • Lettax (denshin-yubin) - hand written letters and pictures may be sent by facsimile, ¥580 (first page). Money and flower delivery options are also available. • Parcels from ¥510 - postage varies according to weight of package and destination. • Printed Matter (shoseki kozutsumi) - the cheapest way to send magazines, books and pamphlets within Japan.

WALL DAMAGE

APPLIANCES

The typical wall coverings in Japanese apartments and homes are light colored cloth wallpaper which can be quite easily stained or torn. It is the tenant’s responsibility to keep these coverings clean and to avoid doing anything that may result in holes being made in the walls. Hanging pictures on the walls is certainly permissible if proper precautions are taken. Therefore, do not use screws, nails, or even pins without brackets when hanging pictures on the walls. The use of pin-type hanging brackets is recommended as they leave only pinholes which are hardly noticeable. You can buy pin-type hanging brackets at just about any lifestyle or hardware store such as Tokyu Hands. Tokyu Hands Shibuya - located 5 minutes northwest from the Hachiko Square exit of Shibuya Station, 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Tel: 03-5489- 5111. Tokyu Hands Shinjuku - located a few minutes from the south exit of Shinjuku JR station in the Takashimaya department store, 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Tel: 03-5361-3111, www.tokyu-hands.co.jp/en.

Unlike the typical apartment in Japan, (¥350,000 – ¥400,000/ month), most expat properties will come with appliances such as a fridge, washer, dryer, dishwasher, phones, phone lines, and air conditioners. The filters of some of these appliances should be regularly cleaned as follows:

CARPET DAMAGE The carpets are the most expensive interior item and should be looked after with care to avoid damage or staining. Try to avoid putting any plants on carpeted floors as the bottom may get moldy even if in a waterproof vase. If you have a plant on the floor you should move it frequently, especially in the summer.

PLACEMENT OF FURNITURE

• Range-hoods, Air Conditioners, Washing Machines – every 2 weeks to once a month • Dryers – filters should be cleaned at least after every 3 times being used

A WORD ABOUT TRASH As in many countries, the rules regarding what to do with trash in Japan are quite particular. Basically, all trash needs to be separated into 3 types and either placed in the appropriate building trash bins, (in the case of apartments), or put out at the curb on the proper collection day, (for more information about trash collection schedules contact your building manager or local city ward office). Trash should be separated and treated as follows: Burnable Trash - (paper, biodegradables, organic materials and things that are easily and safely burnable). Burnable trash should be relatively dry, put into semi-transparent garbage bags, and placed in the “burnable garbage bins” in your apartment building or at the curb in a designated area on the proper “non-burnable trash” collection day, (usually 2 days a week).

When moving in and carrying furniture, all pieces should be wrapped in blankets, or cardNon-burnable Trash - (glass, china, vinyl, board in order not to damage the walls or floors. plastics, and metal) Your moving company will have to contact your Non- burnable trash should be treated the new building management in order to arrange for same as burnable trash except placed in the the move-in and follow any special conditions dur- “non-burnable garbage bins” or put out on the ing the move. To prevent mold it is a good idea to proper “non-burnable trash” collection day, (usukeep the area directly behind furniture ventilated ally 1 day a week). by placing furniture at least 5 centimeters away from the walls. Recyclables - (cans, paper cartons, plastic bottles and containers, small bundles of newspaper or cardboard) Recyclables need to be sorted and separated, and either placed in the designated recycle bins or put out at the on the proper “recyclables” collection day, (usually 1 day a week).

Postal Services Information (English):

For information concerning large oversized trash such as furniture, heavy garbage, and large quantities of newspapers contact your building manager or local city ward office.

0570-046-111 Also, the post office publishes a new edition of its English-language Post Office Guide each March. It is available for a charge of ¥200 (plus an additional ¥180 shipping fee if you have it mailed).

CLINICS & HOSPITALS

Takeshita Clinic 2-14-22, Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3200-1281

Kato Ladies Clinic 7-20-3 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3366-3777

The King Clinic 6-31-21 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3409-0764

Saiseikai Central Hospital 1-4-17, Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3451-8211

Toho Women’s Clinic 5-3-10, Kiba, Koto-ku, Tokyo 03-3630-0303

Akasaka International Clinic Akasaka Tanaka Bldg. 6F 3-16-11 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-5570-2288

Tokyo Women’s Clinic 2F, Roppongi Denki Building, 6-1-20, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3408-6950

Akasaka Sekiguchi Clinic International OAG-Haus (German Cultural Center) 406 7-556 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3584-1727

Tokyo British Clinic Daikanyama Y Bldg. 2F 2-13-7 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-5458-6099

Azabu Otolaryngology Clinic Azabu-Yano Bldg. 2F 4-13-5 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3448-0248

Tokyo Maternity Clinic 1-20-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3403-1861

Endo Clinic 305 Meguro Nishiguchi Mansion 24-13 Kamioosaki 2-Chome, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 03-3492-6422

Tokyo Medical & Surgical Clinic 32 Mori Bldg. 2F 3-4-30 Shiba-koen, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3436-3028

Shiseikai Daini Hospital 5-19-1, Kami-Soshigaya, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 03-3300-0366 Sanno Hospital 8-10-16 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3402-3151 Seibo International Catholic Hospital 2-5-1 Naka Ochiai, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3951-1111 St Luke’s International Hospital 9-1 Akashi-cho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 03-3541-5151 Tokyo Adventist Hospital 3-17-3 Amanuma, Suginami-ku, Tokyo 03-3392-6151 Tokyo Teishin Hospital 2-14-23 Fujimi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-5214-7381

Helios Acupuncture Clinic Rm.1003, Calm Nogizaka Bldg. 6-27, Akasaka 9-chome, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3403-3272

Tokai University School of Medicine Tokyo Hospital 1-2-5, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3370-2321

Hirano Kameido Himawari Clinic 2F Z Bldg., 7-10-1 Kameido, Koto-ku, Tokyo 03-5609-1823

CHIROPRACTIC

International Clinic 1-5-9 Azabudai, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-3583-7831

HOSPITALS

Akasaka Chiropractic 2F 1-3-18 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-5561-0531

Imperial Clinic 4/F, Imperial Hotel 1-1-1, Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-3503-8681

Aiiku Hospital 5-6-8 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3473-8321

PHYSIOTHERAPY

Kaijo Clinic Tokyo Kaijo Building Shinkan 3F, 1-2-1, Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-3212-7690

Hiroo Metropolitan Hospital 2-34-10 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3444-1181

Fertility Clinic Tokyo (Odawara Women’s Clinic) 2-11-16 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3477-0369 Hibiya Clinic Toho Twin Tower B3, 1-5-2, Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-3502-2681

Kamiyacho Clinic Tokyu Reit Toranomon Buiding 1F, 3-17-1, Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3433-0343 Kanda Second Clinic 3-20-14 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3402-0654 Mizumachi Clinic Shinjuku Daiichi Seimei Building 3F, 2-7-1, NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3348-2181 Nozaki Eye Clinic Kasuya Building, 2-9, Sakuragaoka, Shibuya-ku,Tokyo 03-3461-1671 National Medical Clinic #202 5-16-11 Minami Azabu Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3473-2057 Odawara Women’s Clinic 2-11-16, Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3477-0369

International Catholic Hospital 2-5-1 Naka Ochiai, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3951-1111 Inoue Eye Hospital 19F. 20F 4-3, Surugadai, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-3295-0190 Japan Red Cross Medical Center 4-1-22 Hiroo Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, 03-3400-1311 Nihon University Surugadai Hospital 1-8-13 Kanda-Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-3293-1711 NTT Kantoo Teishin Hospital 5-9-22 Higashi Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 03-3448-6111 Keio University Hospital 35 Shinanomachi, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3353-1211

Sakakibara Kinen Clinic 4F,Shinjuku NS Building, 2-4-1, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3344-4817

Endo Clinic 305 Meguro Nishiguchi Mansion 24-13 Kamioosaki 2-Chome, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 03-3492-6422

Shinjuku Mitsui Bldg Clinic 2-1-1, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3344-3311

International Catholic Hospital (Seibo Byooin) 2-5-1 Naka-Ochiai, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3951-1111

78 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

V & B Colless #104 Atrium Shirokane 2002, 5-12-27 Shirokane, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3443-6769

PHARMACIES American Pharmacy - Marunouchi Marunouchi Bldg. B1F 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 03-5220-7716 American Pharmacy - Tachikawa Granduo 1F 3-2-1 Shibazakicho, Tachikawa-shi, Tokyo 042-540-2158 National Azabu - Supermarket Pharmacy 4-5-2 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3442-3181 The Medical Dispensary 32 Mori Bldg. 3-4-30 Shiba Koen, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3434-5817

FITNESS CLUBS TOKYO Chiyoda-ku

Roppongi Hills Spa 6-12-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-6406-6550 http://www.hillsspa.com/ Spa Shirokane 1-1-18 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-3444-5811 The Premier Club Shiroyama Trust Tower 3F, 4-3-1, Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-5472-0055

Konami Sports Club Grancise Otemachi 25-27F Otemachi Nomura Bldg., 2-1-1, Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo - 03-3516-2771

Tipness Roppongi Piramide Bldg. B1F, 6-6-9, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-5474-3531

Work Out World Akasaka Prudential Tower 2F., 2-13-10, Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo - 03-5510-4001

Tokyu Sports Oasis Aoyama B2F Tepia Bldg., 2-8-44, Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-5770-6109

Chuo-ku

TOTAL Workout Roppongi Hills Metro Hat / Hollywood Plaza B2F, 6-4-1, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-5414-1102 - www.totalworkout.jp/english/

Tokyu Sports Oasis Seiroka Garden B2 St. Lukes Tower 8, Akashi-cho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 03-3545-0109

Meguro-ku Central Fitness Club Jiyugaoka 1-14-17 Nakane, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 03-5729-0550 Konami Sports Club Meguro Aobadai 2F Meguro-Aobadai Bldg. 2-19-10, Aobadai, Meguro-ku, Tokyo - 03-5773-1926 Libertyhill Club 3-26-6, Yakumo, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 03-5731-5731 The Club at Yebisu Garden Yebisu Garden Place 1-13-2, Mita, Meguro-ku, Tokyo - 03-5424-1211

Motoazabu Hills Spa Forest Terrace East 1-3-2, Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-3769-6201 http://www.hillsspa.com/ Riviera Sports Club Minami Aoyama 3-3-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-5474-8000

Lafore Tokyo Fitness Salon 4-7-36, Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 03-5488-3911 www.laforethotels.com/tokyo/ tokyo/futai_conteng.html

Tipness Gotanda 2-3-3, Higashi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 03-3441-3531

Renaissance Sangenjaya 2-2-16, Sangenjaya, Setagaya-ku, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo - 03-5481-8500

Shinjuku-ku

The Sports Connection 4-15-30, Seta, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 03-3707-8211 Tipness Shimokitazawa 2-5-2, Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 03-3487-3531

Konami Sports Club Shimokitazawa 5-20-3, Daita, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo - 03-5486-9821

Green Hills Spa Atago Forest Tower 42F 2-3-1, Atago, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-6402-1900 http://www.hillsspa.com/

Jexer Sports 7F Atre Oimachi, 1-2-1, Oimachi, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 03-3772-5014

Central Sports Heisei Bldg.,3F, 2-41-11, Yoga, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo - 03-3700-6116

Ark Hills Spa Ark Towers West 1-3-40, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 03-5573-2830 http://www.hillsspa.com/

Esforta Fitness Club Roppongi Izumi Garden Terrace 2F 1-6-1, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 0120-870-497

Shinagawa-ku

Setagaya-ku

Minato-ku

Esforta Akasaka B1F Akasaka DS Bldg. 8-5-26, Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo - 0120-870-496

Tipness Shibuya 16-4, Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-3770-3531

Central Fitness Club Tenouzu 24-26F Sfia Tower, 2-2-8, Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 03-5462-2355

Central Fitness Club Shimokitazawa 1-46-5, Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 03-5738-5420

Central Fitness Club Minami-Aoyama B1-B2F, 6-1-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 03-5468-1191

Megalos Ebisu 2-4-4, Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-5773-5100 R-Body Project ASAX Hiroo Bldg., 2F., 1-3-14, Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo - 03-5447-1122 www.r-body.com

Esforta Fitness Club Ichigaya 1F Sumitomo Ichigaya Bldg., 1-1 IchigayaHonmuracho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 0120-870-494 Jexer Fitness Club Yotsuya Sotobori Park, 1, Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3355-2415 Tipness Shinjuku 7-1, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 03-3368-3531

YOGA CLASSES

Shibuya-ku BODY by VITAL ola BC SALON 4F, 1-14-11, Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo - 03-6418-0064 Esforta Fitness Club Shibuya B1F Shibuya Infos Tower, 20-1, Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo - 0120-870-493 Gold’s Gym Cocoti 9F•10F•11F, 1-23-16, Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo - 03-5464-7373 Ichigeki Fitness Club 2-16-9 Higashi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 03-5766-5773 Konami Sports Club Aoyama 4F Oval Bldg. 5-52-2, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo - 03-5766-0852

Be Yoga 4F ORE Hiroo, 5-10-26 Minamiazabu, Minato-ku. Tokyo - 03-6277-0177 www.beyogajapan.com Sun & Moon Yoga Higashi Guchi Bldg., Kami Osaki 3-1-5, Suite 204, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo - 03-3280-6383 http://sunandmoon.jp/top/ Yoga Room Purusha F Iijima Bldg 3-18-7 Gohongi, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 080-3121-7883 Yogajaya 2F, 1-25-11, Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo - 03-5784-3622 www.yogajaya.com/

Konami Sports Club Shibuya 18-11, Shinsen-cho, Shibuya-ku, 03-5489-3621

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS IN TOKYO & YOKOHAMA Chiyoda-ku Lycee Franco-Japonais (Fujimi) Kindergarten - 5 eme 5-57-37 Takinogawa Kita-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-6823-6580 Fax: 03-3262-6780 URL: www.lfjtokyo.org Email: lycee@lfjt.or.jp Accreditations: French Curriculum

Edogawa-ku Global Indian International School Japan Kindergarten - Grade 12 3-20-6, Minami-Shinozakicho, Edogawa-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5636-9151 Fax: 03-5636-9158 URL: http://www.globalindianschool.org Email: admissions.tokyo@ globalindianschool.org Annual Schedule: July to March Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed

Itabashi-ku New Hope International Preschool Ages 3 - 5 years 5-1-2, Narimasu, Itabashi-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5383-0421 Fax: 03-6915-6767 URL: www.newhopeclc.jp Email: info@newhopeclc.jp Admissions: Mr. Jeremy Seminoff

Koto-ku K. International School Tokyo Pre-Kindergarten - Grade 12 1-5-15, Shirakawa, Koto-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3642-9993 Fax: 03-3642-9994 URL: www.kist.ed.jp Email: info@kist.ed.jp Admissions: Mr. Craig Larsen Annual Schedule: August/September - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Accreditations: IB World School International Baccalaureate (PYP, MYP, DP) Tokyo YMCA International School Kindergarten - Grade 6 2-2-20, Toyo, Koto-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3615-5632 Fax: 03-5635-1023 URL: http://tokyo.ymca.or.jp/tyis/ Email: tyis@tokyo.ymca.or.jp Admissions: Ms. Marsha Nishikawa Annual Schedule: August - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Accreditations: Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC)

Meguro-ku Aoba-Japan International School (Pre School) Kindergarten - K1-K4 2-2-1 Shoto, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5738-6556 Fax: 03-3481-8300 URL: www.aobaonline.jp Email: shoto.admission@aobajapan.jp Gregg International School (Tokyo) Ages 18 months - 11 years 1-14-6, Jiyugaoka, Meguro-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3725-8000 Fax: 03-5701-2554

80 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

URL: www.gis-j.com Email: balloon@gis-j.com Admissions: Ms. Reiko Matsuzawa Annual Schedule: August - June Montessori Friends International School Ages 18 months - 6 years 3-8-8, Midorigaoka, Meguro-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3726-9386 Fax: 03-3726-9386 URL: www.montessorifriends.com Email: info@montessorifriends.com Admissions: Ms. Jeanne Shimazaki

Minato-ku ai International Preschool Ages 18 months - 6 years 5-4-1-3F, Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3769-3372 Fax: 03-3456-0488 URL: www.aiinternationalschool.com/ Email: info@aiinternationalschool.com Admissions: Ms. Eri Ohashi ABC International School (Hiroo Campus) Ages 15 months - 5 years Katsu Court #101, 2-7-25, MotoAzabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5793-1359 Fax: 03-5793-1359 URL: www.abcinternationalschool.com Email: ABCintl@gol.com Admissions: Ms. Elizabeth Minahan Azabu International School Ages 15 months - 5 years City Azabu Rm.302, 3-10-12, Azabujuban, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3451-8477 Fax: 03-3451-8476 URL: www.azabuis.com/ Email: info@azabuis.com Admissions: Mr. Keith Jacobsen Ayla International School Ages 18 months - 6 years 102 Shirokanedai Heights, 5-13-28 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku,Tokyo Tel: 03-3448-2585 Fax: 03-3448-2585 URL: http://aylais.com/ Email: aylaistokyo@yahoo.com Admissions: Ms. Puteri Zailan American School in Japan Early Learning Center Nursery - Kindergarten 6-16-5, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5771-4344 Fax: 03-5771-4341 URL: http://community.asij.ac.jp Email: jbeneventi@asij.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Judy Beneventi Chateau des Bambini (Nishi-Azabu) Ages 1 - 6 years 1-5-9, Moto-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel:03-5419-1888 Fax: 03-5771-3669 URL: www.montessori-rainbow.com Email: info@montessori-rainbow.com Admissions: Ms. Evangeline Kahai International Secondary School Ages 6 - 13 years 4-17-26, Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5730-1331

Fax: 03-5730-1332 URL: www.isstokyo.com Email: iss@isstokyo.com Admissions: Mr. Shawn Hutchinson Annual Schedule: August - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Accreditations: Associated School of Laurel Springs School(WASC), University of Nebraska-Lincoln Independent study H K Space Ages 16 months - 5 years 5-13-39, Shirokanedai, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5421-4186 URL: www.kspace.to Email: Juliet@kspace.to Admissions: Ms. Juliet Rogove

2-12-14, Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3452-2078 Fax: 03-3452-2092 URL: www.js-international-school.com Email: office@js-international-school.com Admissions: Mrs. Yang Nishimachi International School Kindergarten – Grade 9 2-14-7 Moto Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel/Fax: 03-3451-5520 URL: www.nishimachi.ac.jp Email: info@nishimachi.ac.jp Accreditations: WASC (Western Association of Schools Committee), CIS (Council of International Schools), and recognized by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.

Setagaya-ku

The Montessori School of Tokyo Ages 2years 8months - 12 years 3-5-13, Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5449-7067 Fax: 03-5449-0087 URL: www.montessorijapan.com Email: admit@montessorijapan.com Admissions: Ms. Ushiki

Tamagawa International Preschool 1.5 - 5 years 1-17-5, Tsurumaki, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3439-8685 URL: http://tips-japan.com/ Email: info@tips-japan.com

PAL International School Ages 6 months - 6 years 3-8-18, Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5770-8166 Fax: 03-5770-8167 URL: www.pal-school.com Email: info@pal-school.com Admissions: Mrs. Ayako Kim Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed

American World International Pre-school and Kindergarten Pre-school - Kindergarten 4-30-5, Kaminoge, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 408-656-7959 Fax: 03-5758-3858 URL: www.americanworld.jp Email: admin@americanworld.jp Admissions: Ms. Bobbie Buntin

RLC Playgroup / Preschool Ages 18 months - 4.5 years Roppongi Lutheran Church 3F, 6-1644, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 080-2393-7788 Fax: 03-5545-5335 URL: www.rlcpreschool.com Email: info@rlcpreschool.com Admissions: Ms. Aliy Lickfold

British School in Tokyo Showa Year 4-13 1-7-57, Taishido, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3411-4211 Fax: 03-3411-4212 URL: www.bst.ac.jp Email: comms@bst.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Lowly Norgate Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed

Summerhill International School Ages 15 months - 5.5 years 2-13-8, Motoazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3453-0811 Fax: 03-3453-0820 URL: www.summerhill.jp Email: info@summerhill.jp Admissions: Ms. Monique Keller

Grace International Learning Center Ages 18 months - 6 years 2-13-11, Seta, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5716-3100 Fax: 03-5716-3100 URL: www.grace-learning.com Email: admin@GILC@gmail.com Admissions: Ms. Cheryl Ann Cabusora

St. Alban’s Nursery Ages 3 - 5 years 3-6-25, Shibakoen, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3431-8534 Fax: 03-5472-4766 URL: www.saintalbans.jp Email: stalbans@stalbans.jp Admissions: Mrs. Gilma Yamamoto

Komazawa Park International School Ages 18 months - 6 years 2-12-16, Fukazawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5707-0979 Fax: 03-5707-3970 URL: http://kpischool.com Email: contact@kpischool.com Admissions: Ms. Itsuko Takeuchi

Tokyo International School Pre-4 - Grade 8, Co-ed 3-4-22, Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5484-1160 Fax: 03-5484-1139 URL: www.tokyois.com Email: info@tokyois.com Admissions: Ms. Aya Suzuki & Ms. Cathy Marti Annual Schedule: August - June Accreditations: Candidate for IB authorization, accredited with NEASC and ECIS

Keiki Intercultural Preschool Ages 3 - 6 years 4-5-8, Nakamachi, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3703-8778 Fax: 03-3703-8778 URL: www.keikipreschool.com Email: admin@keikipreschool.com Admissions: Mr. JeongLa Dumas

Willowbrook International School Ages 15 months - 5 years 2-14-28, Moto-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3449-9030 Fax: 03-3449-9064 URL: www.willowbrookschool.com Email: wistokyo@gol.com Admissions: Ms. Hiromi Ishikawa Mitsui Gardens International Preschool Ages 18 months - 5 years 2-1-1, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3224-6796 Fax: 03-3224-6796 URL: http://mitsuigardenspreschool.com Email: ewapreschooldirector@gmail.com Admissions: Ms. Pam Wasilewski J’s International School Ages 1.5 - 6 years

PTC Pacific International School Ages 2yr 6mths - 6 years 5-11-5, Shimouma, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5481-9425 Fax: 03-5481-9425 URL: www.ptc-school.net/ Email: ptc-school@ptc-school.net Admissions: Ms. Yoko Takatsuka Seta International Preschool Ages 18 months - 6 years 2-19-21, Seta, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5717-6769 Fax: 03-5717-6769 URL: www.seta-inter.com Email: sip@seta-inter.com Admissions: Ms. Masako Misumi Accreditations: Well-balanced curriculum with Montessori and manipulatives. St. Mary’s International School Kindergarten - Grade 12 1-6-19, Seta, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3709-3411

Fax: 03-3707-1950 URL: www.smis.ac.jp Email: Admissions:@smis.ac.jp Admissions: Mrs. Bedos T. Santos Annual Schedule: August - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Boys Accreditations: Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), Council of International Schools (CIS) Seisen International School Kindergarten - Grade 12 1-12-15, Yoga, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3704-2661 Fax: 03-3701-1033 URL: www.seisen.com Email: sisAdmissions:@seisen.com Admissions: Ms. Ninnette Trout Annual Schedule: August - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Girls Accreditations: New England Assoc. of Schools and Colleges, European Council of International Schools. Seisen International School (Kindergarten) Ages 3 - 6 years 12-15, Yoga 1-chome, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3704-2661 Fax: 03-3701-1033 URL: www.seisen.com Email: sisAdmissions:@seisen.com Admissions: Ms. Ninnette Trout Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed

Shibuya-ku British School in Tokyo (Shibuya Campus) Nursery - Year 3 1-21-18, Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5467-4321 Fax: 03-5467-4322 URL: www.bst.ac.jp Email: admissions@bst.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Lowly Norgate Annual Schedule: September - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Accreditations: British curriculum International School of the Sacred Heart (ISSH) K - Grade 12 4-3-1, Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3400-3951 Fax: 03-3400-3496 URL: www.issh.ac.jp Email: admissions@issh.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Hisaoka (5-12) Annual Schedule: Late August - Early June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Girls Accreditations: US Western Association of Schools and Colleges and the European Council of International Schools. International School of the Sacred Heart ( Kindergarten ) Ages 3 - 5 years 4-3-1, Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3400-3951 Fax: 03-3400-3496 URL: www.issh.ac.jp Email: admissions@issh.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Kawaguchi Annual Schedule: Late August - Early June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Poppins International Pre-school Ages 1 - 3 years Yebisu Garden Terrace Nibankan 1F., 4-20-2, Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5791-2105 Fax: 03-5791-2106 URL: www.poppins.co.jp/pips/index.html Email: pips@poppins.co.jp Admissions: Ms. Camille James St. Marian Nursery School Ages 46 days - 6 years 1-16-12, Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 0120-415-212 Fax: 03-3461-1021 URL: www.st-marian.co.jp Email: info-marian@st-marian.co.jp Sesame International Preschool Ages 18 months - 6 years 1-5-14, Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5485-1197 Fax: 03-5485-1219

URL: http://sesame.jap.co.jp Email: sesame@jap.co.jp Admissions: Ms. Sachiko Nagasawa Yoyogi International School Ages 18 months - 6 years 1-15-12, Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5478-6714 Fax: 03-5478-6713 URL: www.yoyogiinternationalschool.com Email: info@ yoyogiinternationalschool.com Admissions: Ms. Yuko Muir Maria’s Babies’ Society Ages 18 months - 6 years Tomy’s House #101, 3-36-20, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3404-3468 Fax: 03-3404-3625 URL: www.mariasbabies.co.jp Email: contact@mariasbabies.co.jp Admissions: Ms. Maria Matsuoka Jingumae International Exchange School Ages 3 - Grade 6 4-20-12, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5413-6090 Fax: 03-5413-2020 URL: www.jies.jp/ Email: shibuya@jies.jp Admissions: Ms. Keiko Mikawa Annual Schedule: September - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Saint Annie’s International Kindergarten K1-Pre3, Co-ed Kishi bldg. 2F, 1-5-3 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-6407-9221 Fax: 03-6407-9221 URL: http://saintannie.net/ Email: kids@saintannie.net Annual Schedule: September - June

Shinagawa-ku KAIS International School Grade 6 - 12 2-7-16 Kami-Osaki, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5421-0127 Fax: 03-5421-0127 URL: www.kaischool.com Email: contact@kaischool.com Admissions: Ms. Misako Horikawa Annual Schedule: September - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed

Shinjuku-ku Au Pays des Sakuras Ages 2 - 6 years Koyo biru 2F 1-6-3 Iidabashi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Tel: 090-8344-0270 URL: www.aupaysdessakuras.com Admissions: Ms. Celine Guillery Accreditations: French Kindergarten

Suginami-ku Aoba-Japan International School (Suginami Campus) Kindergarten - Grade 9 2-10-7, Miyamae, Suginami-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3335-6620 Fax: 03-3332-6930 URL: www.aobaonline.jp/ Email: suginami@aobajapan.jp Admissions: Ms. Lee Annual Schedule: September - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Accreditations: Complete English curriculum; integrated Japanese language program Busy Bees International School Ages 3 - 6 years 1-19-14 B1, Izumi, Suginami-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-6413-1901 Fax: 03-6413-1901 URL: www.busybees-school.com/ en/index.html Email: info@busybees-school.com Admissions: Mr. Willie Hines Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed

Taito-ku Lycee Franco-Japonais (Ryuhoku) 6 eme - Terminale 5-57-37, Takinogawa, Kita-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-36823-6580 URL: www.lfjtokyo.org/ Email: contact@lfjtoyo.org Accreditations: French Curriculum

Toshima-ku New International School Preschool Age 3 - Grade 9 3-18-32, Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-3980-1057 Fax: 03-3980-1154 URL: http://newis.ed.jp/ Email: contact@newis.ed.jp Admissions: Mr. Steven Parr Annual Schedule: September - June Co-ed/Boys/Girls: Co-ed

Others American School in Japan Nursery - Grade 12 1-1-1, Nomizu, Chofu-City, Tokyo Tel: 0422-34-5300 Fax: 0422-34-5303 URL: http://community.asij.ac.jp Email: enroll@asij.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Mary Margaret Mallat Annual Schedule: August - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Accreditations: Western Association of Schools and Colleges Christian Academy in Japan Kindergarten - Grade 12 2-14, Shinkawacho 1-chome, Higashi-Kurume City, Tokyo Tel: 0424-71-0022 Fax: 0424-76-2200 URL: http://caj.or.jp Email: infodesk@caj.or.jp Admissions: Mrs. Carolyn Eddams Annual Schedule: September - June Accreditations: Western Association of Schools and Colleges, Christian school. Columbia International School 1-5-3 Matsugo Tokorozawa, Saitama Prefecture 359-0027, Japan Tel: 04-2946-1911 Fax: 04-2946-1955 URL: http://www.columbia-ca.co.jp Email: office@columbia-ca.co.jp Tokyo International Learning Community (TILC) For children with learning difficulties 2-51-7, Tama-cho, Fuchushi, Tokyo 183-0002 Tel: 042-401-0585 Fax: 042-401-0588 URL: www.isbi.com/index.asp Admissions: Mr. Dennis Mckibben German School, The Ages 6 - 18 years 2-4-1, Chigasaki-Minami, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama-City, Kanagawa-Pref. Tel: 045-941-4841 Fax: 045-941-4481 URL: www.dsty.ac.jp Email: dsty@dsty.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Petra Wels Annual Schedule: September - June Accreditations: Gernman curriculum, German Baccalaureate Horizon Japan International School (Yokohama) Ages 3 - Grade 9 1-33-6, Higashi-Terao, Tsurumi-ku, Yokohama-City, Kanagawa-Pref. Tel: 045-584-1948 Fax: 045-584-1947 URL: http://www.horizon.ac.jp Email: hjis@horizon.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Yumiko Ozeki Annual Schedule: September - June

83, Yamate-cho, Naka-ku, YokohamaCity, Kanagawa-Pref. Tel: 045-641-5751 Fax: 045-641-6688 URL: www.stmaur.ac.jp Email: Admissions:@stmaur.ac.jp Annual Schedule: August - June Co-ed/Boys/Gils: Co-ed Tree House Montessori School Ages 18 months - 6 years 16-5, Honmoku-Makado, Naka-ku, Yokohama-City Tel: 045-622-5804 Fax: 045-622-2803 URL: www.tms-school.com Email: jenny@tms-school.com Admissions: Ms. Jenny Vyvial Annual Schedule: 16-5, Honmoku, Makado, Naka-ku, Yokohama-City Yokohama Overseas Chinese School Pre-school - Grade 12 142, Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama-City, Kanagawa-Pref. Tel: 045-681-3608 Fax: 045-671-1070 URL: www.yocs.jp/ Email: yocs@yocs.jp Yokohama Yamate Chinese School Pre-School - Grade 9 2-66 Yoshihamacho, Nakaku, Yokohama-City, Kanagawa-Pref. Tel: 045-641-0393 Fax: 045-641-3776 URL: www.yokohamayamatechineseschool.ed.jp Email: bosyu@yokohamayamatechineseschool.ed.jp Yokohama International School Ages 3 - Grade 12 258, Yamate-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama-City, Kanagawa-Pref. Tel: 045-622-0084 Fax: 045-621-0379 URL: www.yis.ac.jp Email: yis@yis.ac.jp Admissions: Ms. Susan Chen Annual Schedule: August - June Yokohama Union Church International Preschool Ages 2 - 4 years 66-2, Yamate-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama-City, Kanagawa-Pref. Tel: 045-651-5177 Fax: 045-651-5191 URL: http://preschool. yokohamaunionchurch.org Email: preschool@ yokohamaunionchurch.org Admissions: Ms. Linda Schmidt Makuhari International School Kindergarten - Grade 6 3-2-9, Wakaba, Mihama-ku, Chiba City, Chiba Pref. Tel: 043-296-0277 Fax: 043-296-0186 URL: http://mis.ed.jp Email: info@mis.or.jp Admissions: Mr. Paul Rogers Annual Schedule: April - March

Saitama-ken Columbia International School 153 Matsugo Tokorozawa, Saitama 359-0027 Tel: 04-2946-1911 Fax: 04-2946-1955 URL: www.columbia-ca.co.jp Email: holland@columbia-ca.co.jp Contact: Christopher Holland

Saint Maur International School Ages 2.5 years - Grade 12

IMMIGRATION ALIEN REGISTRATION & RE-ENTRY IMMIGRATION PERMITS DISCONTINUED INFORMATION CENTER Alien registration used to be required for all foreign residents over the age of 16 who were staying in Japan over 90 days and necessary when applying for almost any social service - mobile phones, bank accounts, apartment rentals, health care. or driver’s licenses. As of July 9, 2012, the Japanese government passed a law and replaced the Alien Registration system with the Foreign Residents’ Registration system. From July 10, 2012, Alien Registration cards were discontinued and replaced with Resident’s ID Cards. Where foreign residents used to apply for Alien Registration cards at their local municipal offices (or Ward offices) they now need to apply at Regional Immigration Bureaus for Residents’ ID Cards.

NEW FOREIGN RESIDENTS’ REGISTRATION SYSTEM & ID CARD The new Foreign Residents’ Registration system sees non-Japanese residents recorded alongside Japanese residents in the Juminhyo system, (a registry of current residential addresses maintained by local governments in Japan). Current Alien Registration cards will be replaced with Residents’ ID Cards the next time foreign residents apply for a visa extension (or when they apply to change their Status of Residence, if they do this at an earlier date). Alien Registration cards will become invalid on 8 July, 2015, or when the resident’s current visa expires, whichever comes first. It appears that anyone issued with a visa valid for more than three months, or anyone who stays for more than three months, will require a Resident’s ID Card. With the new ID, the maximum length of a visa (other than visas such as permanent residents or special long-term residents) for foreign residents was extended from three to five years, and a reentry permit won’t be required for overseas trips of up to one year (but of course not such that the visa expires while one is out of the country).[ Visa renewals will be automatically reported to City Offices. Immigration Dept. penalties for failing to promptly report changes in address to the City Office may turn out to be quite severe. As was the case for Alien Registration, penalties for not carrying registration cards at all times are still likely to be heavy. As well, the Regional Immigration Bureau will likely be more active in checking to make sure foreign residents are in Japan legally, have Japanese National Health Insurance, and pay into the Japanese national pension scheme. For more information visit the Immigration Bureau web site: www.immi-moj.go.jp/newimmiact_1/en/point_1-2.html

82 LIVING JAPAN VOLUME 7 2013

If you need assistance on immigration matters, visit or call the new Immigration Information Center in the Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau. The center provides consulting and information services on immigration procedures: • Guidance on procedures to apply for entry permission for spouses, employees and others. • Guidance on procedures for acquiring or changing status of residence and extending periods of stay. • Guidance on alien registration procedures. • Guidance on various documents required for applications. • Guidance on general immigration matters.

RE-ENTRY PERMITS With the new Foreign Residents’ Registration system which began July 10th, 2012, re-entry permits are no longer required for visa holders for overseas trips of up to one year.

Spouse Visa - Applicants who are married to a Japanese national can apply for a spouse visa before or after coming to Japan. Visa holders are allowed to engage in any paid activity. A spouse visa is valid for one or three years and needs to be extended before it expires. Permanent Residence - Residents that have lived in Japan for at least five consecutive years and fulfill a few more conditions, may be eligible to apply for permanent residence. Permanent residents do not need to worry about extending visas anymore and are allowed to engage in any paid activity.

Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau Office 5-5-30, Konan, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5796-7112 Hours: 9am - 12pm, 1pm-4pm Monday – Friday (except National holidays) Telephone inquiries are accepted only during office hours.

TYPES OF VISAS Working Holiday Visa - This is a special visa for young citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada, South Korea, France, Germany and the United Kingdom. Holders are expected to work only part-time jobs and spend a portion of their time traveling in Japan. Working Visa - Before coming to work in Japan, foreigners need to apply for an appropriate working visa. You may also apply for a working visa after coming to Japan. In all cases you will need a company sponsor for your visa. There are about a dozen types of working visas, each allowing the holder to engage in paid activities only within a defined professional field - there are visas for artists, professors, engineers, instructors, and entertainers. If you change jobs while you are in Japan and the new job falls into a different professional field, you also need to change your status of residence. Most working visas are valid for one or three years and need to be extended before they expire. Student Visa - There are a few types of student visas depending on the type of studies. Holders are not allowed to engage in any paid activities.

PHOTO CREDITS p.6 - (Bottom Left) Yoshikazu Takada p.62 - Photos by “dozodomo” p.63 - (Top) Photo courtesy of the National Diet Library (Bottom) ©Nagano Prefecture/© JNTO