CITY November 2023

ARTS. MUSIC. CULTURE. NOVEMBER 2023 FREE | SINCE 1971

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CITY 1

BEST OF ROCHESTER BEST OF IS BACK. Our annual readers’ poll is a chance to shout out your favorite people, places, and things to do. A chance to give recommendations to other CITY readers. And as always, the four finalists in each category are dictated by your write-ins!

The first stage of the poll is the primary ballot. We did a little tweaking this year to make the nominations more succinct and relevant, so there are a total 102 ballot lines under five categories. All you have to do is click on the survey posted prominently on our homepage at roccitymag.com and cast your votes.

Primary ballot voting is open until Nov. 24 at midnight.

After the primary ballot closes, CITY staff will tally thousands of votes and identify finalists in each category. Voting for the final round will begin December 4 and end December 15 at midnight.

In January, we’ll drop the “Best of Rochester” issue. Also, we’re throwing a party.

A last word: please don’t stuff the ballot, or encourage other CITY readers to do so. Let’s have winners who fairly earn their wins.

For all our Best of Rochester updates, follow CITY on Instagram, Facebook, and X.

RECREATION

DRINK

FOOD

ARTS & ENTER TAIN MENT

SHOPPING & SERVICES

!!!

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OCTOBER 2023 ROCCITYMAG.COM • @ROCCITYMAG

NOVEMBER 2023 | Vol. 52 No. 3

Food & Bev 6

ARTS. MUSIC. CULTURE. 280 State Street Rochester, New York 14614 feedback@rochester-citynews.com phone (585) 244-3329 roccitymag.com

ART

CREATIVITY IS KEY WHEN IT COMES TO THESE ART GALLERY EATERIES.

BY REBECCA RAFFERTY

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PUBLISHER Rochester Area Media Partners LLC, Norm Silverstein, chairman

ARTS

THE UNPRETENTIOUS PATH OF A VEGAN MAGAZINE FOUNDER.

FOUNDERS Bill and Mary Anna Towler EDITORIAL Editor: Leah Stacy Senior arts writer: Jeff Spevak Arts writers: Daniel J. Kushner, Rebecca Rafferty

BY ASHLEY MASON

Contributors: David Andreatta, Natasha Cotrupi, Noelle Evans, Rudy Fabre, Gino Fanelli, Patrick Hosken, Timothy Ludwig, Mike Martinez, Ashley Mason, Fred McCoy, Jeremy Moule, Jessica L. Pavia, Johanna Lester, Abby Quatro, Narada J. Riley, Mona Seghatoleslami, Tom Willard, Denise Young

44

CULTURE

MARTINE, A NEW CONCEPT FEATURING KOCKTAILS (SIC) ON TAP, OPENS IN THE SOUTH WEDGE.

CREATIVE Director, Strategy: Ryan Williamson Art director: Jacob Walsh

BY LEAH STACY

48

ADVERTISING ads@rochester-citynews.com Sales director: Alison Zero Jones Advertising consultant/ Project manager: David White

A FORMER THIRD WAVE-COFFEE SHOP TRANSITIONS TO NEXT GENERATION BODEGA.

OPERATIONS/CIRCULATION Operations manager: Ryan Williamson Circulation manager: Katherine Stathis kstathis@rochester-citynews.com

CULTURE

BY LEAH STACY

50

CULTURE

AN ODE TO FINGER LAKES REDS: THE REGION PROVES (ONCE AGAIN) IT’S MORE THAN JUST RIESLING.

BY GINO FANELLI

60

CULTURE

54

FIND YOUR NEW FAVORITE EATERY THROUGH NOMINATE'S CURATED MYSTERY FOOD EVENTS.

CULTURE

A FARMER AND A CHEF OFFER TIPS FOR NO-WASTE, CREATIVE COOKING WITH THE SEASONS.

BY NATASHA COTRUPI

BY REBECCA RAFFERTY

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DIG IN TO MORE ARTS, MUSIC, AND CULTURE INSIDE!

CITY is available free of charge. Additional copies of the current issue may be purchased by calling 585-784-3503.

CITY may be distributed only by authorized distributors. No person may, without prior written permission of CITY, take more than one copy of each monthly issue.

CITY (ISSN 1551-3262) is published monthly 12 times per year by Rochester Area Media Partners, a subsidiary of WXXI Public Broadcasting. Periodical postage paid at Rochester, NY (USPS 022-138). Address changes: CITY, 280 State Street, Rochester, NY 14614. Member of the Association of Alternative Newsmedia and the New York Press Association. Copyright by Rochester Area Media Partners LLC, 2023 - all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, photocopying, recording or by any information storage retrieval system without permission of the copyright owner.

ARTS. MUSIC. CULTURE. NOVEMBER 2023 FREE | SINCE 1971

On the cover: Photograph by Jacob Walsh

@ROCCITYMAG WXXI Members may inquire about free home delivery of CITY including monthly TV listings by calling 585-258-0200.

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Girl dinner EDITOR'S LETTER

BY LEAH STACY @LEAHSTACY

B

efore coming to CITY, I had a four-year intermission from journalism as a brand strategist and content creator, primarily for local hospitality companies. The way I fell into that is a story for another day, but I chose to do it full-time because I truly love the industry. It encompasses so many things: storytelling, events, theater, travel … all the best parts of life. Not to mention, no day is the same. Ideal.

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For a mid-sized city, Rochester has an impressive food and beverage scene. I spent the pandemic working with restaurants, and I saw firsthand the resilience and dedication of owners, staff, and guests to make sure favorite spots, which had become second homes and families for many, stayed in business.

When I got to CITY, we ran some data on our stories — and it turns out our readers like food content. A lot. So, we’re doubling down on our food and drink coverage going forward, beginning with this issue. Local, national, Zeitgeist-y (to steal a term we’ve been using a lot in the office). What’s the meaning of girl dinner, what’s BORG, and how do we feel about ghost kitchens? Why can’t we stop checking @industrystandard69 on Instagram?

Should local restaurants be on TikTok? Who’s

opening something new, and who’s mentoring the next generation? Stay tuned for a fun new visual project as well…

Along those same lines, our annual Best Of contest has returned, with new and improved food and drink categories. Be sure to write in your nominations, and join us for a big party in January (TBA)! Before that, though, we’ll celebrate this issue with a launch party at Martine (featured on page 44) on Thursday, November 9 from 6 to 8 p.m. It’s free, and we’d love to see ya.

Pretty stoked about this issue, friends.

Hope you eat it up (and want seconds).

Cheers, L

CITY Social

SIGN-UP FOR OUR NEWSLETTERS TO FIND OUT WHEN AND WHERE OUR MONTHLY SOCIAL HANGOUTS WILL BE.

Scenes from CITY’s October social at Iron Smoke Distillery in Fairport. PHOTOS BY RUDY FABRE

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Artful palates Creativity is key at these institutional eateries.

ARTS

BY REBECCA RAFFERTY @RSRAFFERTY

W

estern New York isn’t short on impressive dining experiences. But there are some eateries tucked away within arts institutions that may slip under the radar when it comes to picking your next meal. Sure, they’re there for peckish people who are already in house to see the art, but these cafés and restaurants aren’t just places to procure refreshments between long strolls through curated collections and cultural lectures.

They’re serving up artful meals — on platters which may be works of art, themselves — and they are worthy of a visit even when you’re not there to see a show. No admission required to dine.

BROWN HOUND DOWNTOWN @ THE MEMORIAL ART GALLERY 500 UNIVERSITY AVE. | BROWNHOUNDDOWNTOWN.COM

Opened at the Memorial Art Gallery in 2016 by decorated chef Trish Aser, Brown Hound is the second iteration of the eatery.

The restaurant debuted as Brown Hound Bistro in South Bristol in 2005 and was open for 11 years.

Aser, who is also co-owner of Old School Café in Naples, is an industry heavy hitter—in 2020, she was invited to be a presenter in the esteemed James Beard House in Manhattan. Aser started the gallery spot as a farm-to-table place that focused on lighter fare and locally sourced ingredients.

In 2021, Aser placed the Brown Hound’s Rochester kitchen and menus in the hands of Chef Mike McInerny, who brought 6 CITY

NOVEMBER 2023

Brown Hound Bistro’s ‘Web’s Loco Moco,’ inspired by the eatery’s GM and his time spent in Hawai’i, is savory and satisfying without being too heavy.

PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

One iteration of the Sweet Frenchie — a twice-baked French toast casserole with toppings that change seasonally — on the menu at Brown Hound Bistro. PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

his experience in country clubs and a love of BBQ to the balcony restaurant above the MAG’s central atrium.

McInerny has created a brunchcentric but welcome-anytime menu consisting of about a dozen light, yet hearty dishes. There’s a classic breakfast sandwich on a torta roll with home fries, a chicken salad sandwich on a croissant, street-style tacos, naan flatbread pizza, chicken and waffles, decadent French toast, and more; a structure of mainstays that are amenable to seasonal variation. The current menu’s dishes are filled with autumnal flavors that include Trentino apples and mushrooms from local growers Fun Guys, with accents like cranberry sriracha maple syrup and maple shallot vinaigrette.

“The flavors have to flow together to make something beautiful,” McInerny said. “We’re using the colors and the spices and everything — that’s kind of our version of a painter’s palette.”

Then there is also a mainstay named for the restaurant’s general manager, Webster Blackmon, who spent 15 years in Hawai’i. ‘Web’s Loco Moco’ is McInerny’s take on the traditional Loco Moco Hawaiian dish, which at Brown Hound includes sticky rice, slices of pork belly, pickled onion, and over-easy eggs with toast, all topped with kona coffee BBQ drizzle, and togarashi seasoning.

Brown Hound is open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday through Friday, and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. There is dinner service, with a limited menu, on Thursdays from 5 to 8 p.m.

The ‘Toasted Brie’ with a side of pickled beets at Open Face.

PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

OPEN FACE @ GEORGE EASTMAN MUSEUM 900 UNIVERSITY AVE. | EASTMAN.ORG/ OPEN-FACE-EASTMAN-MUSEUM

Since its stint in the South Wedge, Open Face has been a longtime local favorite serving variations of vegetable, fruit, and protein sammies — not to mention popular side dishes like ginger carrots and pickled beets — for decades.

The South Ave. spot closed in 2017, but reopened in the renovated George Eastman Museum in 2021 with a familiar menu. True to its name, Open Face specializes in generous portioned open-faced sandwiches.

Classics include the corn mash with apricot BBQ glaze, which hits the comfort food spot of savory and sweet, and the toasted brie with apricot preserves, tart cherry butter, and poppy seeds. Roasted chicken with maple mustard, chicken salad, and flaked albacore are featured as well, all with the option of ordering in melt-form.

The Open Face signature dish is actually a bowl, filled with toasted CONTINUED ON PAGE 8

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Open Face’s ‘Corn Mash’ sammie with a side of ginger carrots. PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

and cubed buttered bread, roasted chicken, a parmesan wafer, and french fried onions, topped with soup-like gravy.

Open Face also sells some of its mashes by the pint and quart (with 24-hours’ notice) and offers a rotation of soups, as well as selections from its Tea Pharmacy, which offers a variety of brews. Bakery items include housemade cookies as well as treats by Cheesy Eddie’s, Red Fern, Black Cat, and Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams.

The restaurant is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday.

CORNELIA @ THE BUFFALO AKG ART MUSEUM 1285 ELMWOOD AVE., BUFFALO | BUFFALOAKG.ORG/VISIT/DINING

When Buffalo’s major museum reopened this summer, it introduced Cornelia — a cafe named for the museum’s second director, painter Cornelia Bentley Sage Quinton, who was the first woman to direct a major art museum in the United States (1910-1924).

More than just a compact kitchen and dining space, Cornelia immerses visitors in visionary art of consequence, with a site-specific work commissioned from Dominican artist Firelei Báez: a 30-foot-long mosaic based on an Afrofuturist myth about women cast overboard in the Middle Passage thriving underwater, titled “Chorus of the Deep (something ephemeral and 8 CITY

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PHOTO PROVIDED

beautifully whole, when seen from the edge of one’s vision, too full when taken head-on).”

The art is siren-like, seductive at first glance, and educational if patrons choose to read the provided text as they chow down on Cornelia’s menu by executive chef Tony Martina. There are taste budpleasing small plates; sandwiches of the toasted or breakfast variety; hearty plates that range from pasta to polenta, a chicken cutlet; and a roasted tomato and parmesan frittata. For a sweet date idea, order a picnic basket to enjoy on the sprawling outdoor campus or, weather demanding, in the museum’s indoor commons that still offer a great view of the sky.

Cornelia is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Monday, Saturday, and Sunday, and from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Thursday and Friday.

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Focused on joy Chickpea’s Cara Livermore pairs food with genuine community.

ARTS

BY ASHLEY MASON

A

n air of excitement fills the crowded venue. With a mixture of nerves and thrill, Cara Livermore, the founder of the vegan quarterly Chickpea, takes the stage with internet food celebrity Joy the Baker. They’re in Boston on the prestigious set of “America’s Test Kitchen,” and a talk is about to begin.

“That was one of the best nights of my life,” Livermore said. “Even if I don’t make a full-time salary on the magazine, I get to do these amazing things.”

Livermore and her partner, Bob Lawton, started a popular vegan food blog called “hipsterfood” in the early 2010s, which later became the print publication Chickpea. Their claim to fame is 100%, from scratch vegan cooking — an homage to their early days when specialty foods were hard to come by.

“We used to get so many hate comments just for being vegan,” Livermore said.

Now, the magazine is in over 12 cities, reaching Boston to Tokyo, and their 37th issue, focused on ‘Joy,’ is on newsstands now. The irony of the topic during such bleak times isn’t lost on Livermore.

With bad news fatigue and burnout abounding, finding moments of delight has become exceedingly difficult. And that’s exactly why she dedicated 148 pages of her vegan quarterly to the subject.

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Cara Livermore founder of vegan quarterly Chickpea magazine. PHOTOS BY ABBY QUATRO

“That was one of the best nights of my life.

Even if I don’t make a full-time salary on the magazine, I get to do these amazing things.”

“It’s been hard for me to do,” Livermore admitted. After coming off researching her previous Sustainability issue for nine months, a topic she cares about deeply, she felt exhausted.

“Joy is exactly opposed to the Sustainability issue,” she said. “We’re still doing things in a sustainable way, but incorporating happiness into your life intentionally.”

In every issue of Chickpea, Livermore highlights how we weave food into our daily lives and its role in fostering connections with others.

Articles are bound together by a theme that excites her — but it’s the everyday work that she loves most.

“The daily act of like research, creation, all of that—that’s like my favorite thing to do,” Livermore said.

“For me, it’s about the wider view and having one thing to focus on with the magazine.”

Livermore isn’t a typical food celebrity. Even though her work has been featured in MoMA PS1, Nordstrom, and Anthropologie, she’s not cooking sold-out pop-up dinners around town. Instead, she opts to have friends over and play 16-millimeter movies in the backyard.

“We’re still homebodies,” she confessed.

With a degree in illustration and fine art, Livermore does the layout and design herself, including hand-lettering every issue, which gives it an artsy sketchbook aesthetic. She also oversees all creative aspects, from photography and recipes to curation and art direction.

“It’s like a coffee table book,” said Danielle Raymo, owner and founder of Rochester Brainery, which has worked with Livermore to host photography and food styling classes. “She puts all these cute things like shopping lists in the magazine that make it beautiful.

PHOTO BY ABBY QUATRO

Throughout the pandemic, I cooked like everything in the digital issue.”

Unlike the chef-y tips you might find in other food glossies, Livermore and her contributors give advice on making eco-conscious choices, like meal prep to reduce food waste or how to reimagine leftovers during the week.

The magazine is a sensory delight— thick, velvety pages with substance. “​​I don’t want to make things that are meant to go in the trash,” she said.

Livermore, with her rimmed glasses and wavy hair, is laidback and tends to ramble, but she’s clear-cut when discussing consumerism. Her values are loud and clear with the magazine, and accessibility is another primary focus of her work. She makes a point of publishing free printables on her website, and all the recipes are designed to be approachable to beginners.

Livermore’s thoughtfulness comes

across offline as well.

“She would bake a cake,” Raymo said, recalling the photography courses Livermore taught at Rochester Brainery. “She would just provide all these amazing props with different textures and great colors. Things that people wanted to post about.”

No matter what kind of camera the class attendees had, Livermore helped them troubleshoot and figure out how to make the most of what they had.

Raymo said this was big for beginner photographers who were shooting on iPhones.

“Even if it’s the best angle to hold your camera while you’re taking a certain kind of photo, that makes such a huge difference,” she said, noting that several people who took Livermore’s class are now regulars in the local photography scene.

It’s those kinds of offline connections Livermore craves most now. Over the past few years, as local institutions like ROC Girl Gang disbanded, she’s found it less clear where to meet like-minded people.

“How do we find that sense of community again?” she said.

Livermore’s latest issue of Chickpea nudges at an answer. Plan a potluck with your chosen people. Bake smiley face cookies and deliver them to a friend’s house. Seek genuine connections, potentially with food involved.

It might seem rather simple — but the best things in life often are. chickpeamagazine.com roccitymag.com CITY 11

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CALL FOR CREATIVES

R.E.P.O.R.T.S.

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Photography Fellowship

(R)EADING, (E)ATING, (P)LAYING, (O)BSESSING OVER, (R)ECOMMENDING, (T)REATING, (S)HOUTING OUT.

BY JOHANNA LESTER

W

elcome to CITY REPORTS, a monthly questionnaire inspired by a popular TikTok trend — here’s what a few of your fellow CITY readers in and around Rochester are (R)eading, (E) ating, (P)laying, (O)bsessing over, (R) ecommending, (T)reating themselves to, and who—or what—they’re (S) houting out. Our first interviewee is Harmeet Kaur, a 29-year-old director of marketing. You can find her on Instagram @HarmeetEats.

Visual artist submissions UUU Art Collective Acceptable mediums include but are not limited to: painting, drawing, printmaking, sculpture, photography, digital art, video, mixed media, site-specific installation, performance art and others. Selected artists will be contacted directly by gallery staff via email or phone, and will be considered for inclusion in solo or group exhibitions, artist talks, special events, and curatorial projects.

Deadline: Ongoing | uuuartcollective.com/for-artists

READING: “I subscribe to some great

newsletters, including The Media Leader, Marketing Brew, HubSpot’s newsletter, QSR Magazine, and everything on LinkedIn. For leisure, I’ve read Tender is the Flesh (whoa, is all I have to say), and I’m currently reading ‘Attached.’”

EATING: “My usual spots are Naan-Tastic, Swan Dive, Rebel Pi, and Redd. A little diverse, a little divey, a little fancy— but all locally owned. Being a vegetarian, having options other than salads is important. Other spots I love are Cedar (Mediterranean), Levantine’s (Syrian), Thali of India and Tandoor of India (Indian), and King and I (Thai).”

PLAYING: “I’m a big listener to true

crime podcasts; it’s astounding how many cases are based in and around Rochester. Andrew Huberman [host of the Huberman Lab podcast] has been my latest obsession. Musically, I’m a big fan of Diljit (a Punjabi artist), Bad Bunny, and, as basic as it makes me, Beyoncé and Drake will always have a place in my heart (and my ‘Spotify Wrapped’ top-played).”

OBSESSING OVER: “Once fall hits, I’m between two moods: embracing 12 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

En Foco Designed to support photographers of color.

Ten photographers will be awarded $1,500, their work will be part of a 2024 group exhibition, and they will be provided with professional development and networking opportunities.

Deadline: November 11 | enfoco. submittable.com

Open call for work everything the season offers and trying to hold on to all things summer. From pumpkin patches to haunted hayrides, you’ll find me with my niece and nephews—maybe an apple cider or fry cake in hand. Being a part of the Strong Museum of Play’s Play Makers Leadership Council has made me appreciate the museum in a different light. And, whenever the weather allows, I try to get out and play some pickleball.”

RECOMMENDING: Try things you

won’t normally try, or make room for yourself in places you once thought you didn’t fit or belong. From new cuisines to attending art shows, festivals (Fringe), and group exercise classes—or striking up a conversation with someone at the gym, bar, or restaurant.”

TREATING MYSELF TO: ”I’m like Aziz

Ansari from “Parks and Recreation;” I don’t need a reason to celebrate. I

spend time in nature with my dog, Meeko. We love Highland Park.

Lumos Sauna (a woman-owned and -operated business) is a great treat in colder weather. If we’re celebrating something like a birthday, I need to get a carrot cake from Cheesy Eddie’s, and some Indian or Mexican food from any of the local spots. Midtown Athletic Club is another hidden gem.”

Main Street Arts, Clifton Springs Main Street Arts is looking for submissions from artists located in upstate New York working with all media. Submissions are reviewed twice annually. All artists who submit work will hear back within one month of the deadline date.

Deadline: December 31 | mainstreetartscs.org/artistopportunities/open-call

SHOUT OUT: “A huge shout out to everyone who works in food service and hospitality. I started my food blog (around five) years ago and got a lot of support from people who have done it for much longer than I have, including Aman and Ajay (owners of Naan-Tastic), Linh Phillips (Sir Rocha Says), Christina Kostarellis (WhatsGoodinTheRoc/UnlocktheRoc), Chris Clemens (Exploring Upstate), Chris and Dario (Refined Taste), and more that I’m forgetting.”

Annual call for submissions and exhibition proposals

Interested in being a CITY REPORTS interviewee? Send an email to leah@rochester-citynews.

Rochester Contemporary Art Center RoCo welcomes general and video submissions for future exhibition seasons.

Submit a letter of intent, up to 20 images or short video files on a flash drive with checklist, artist statement and resume.

More details online. Materials will be kept on file for future reference and consideration.

Deadline: Postmarked by December 31 | rochestercontemporary.org - CURATED BY REBECCA RAFFERTY

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Sissy that walk ARTS

Scenes from Rochester Fashion Week.

Saturday, October 14, at the Dome Arena.

PHOTOS BY RUDY FABRE

14 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

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MUSIC REVIEWS

“WAVING TREES”

BY WOVENHOME “Waving Trees,” is the six-song debut effort from Wovenhome, a folk band led by painter-musicians Hayley Dayis and Alexander Fals, who split their time between Rochester and Popoyán, Columbia. But the EP — which is rounded out by Gary Lamaar on drums and vocals and multi-instrumentalist Shaun Jones — goes well beyond standard American acoustic fare and exceeded my expectations.

The opener “Totumo” has a brisk waltz feel driven by Lamaar’s inthe-pocket drumming and Jones’s sumptuous bass line. The harmonies from Dayis and Fals are nothing short of brilliant.

On the title track, the analog warmth of an African harp called a “ngoni” stands in sharp contrast to the hiresolution sound of Fals and Dayis’s vocals. The melody evokes the feeling of a lullaby as it nestles into a samba-like syncopated groove.

“Summer Rain” continues the EP’s emphasis on rhythmic subtleties and the primacy of the beat that prevails throughout.

“Praise the Sun’’ is emblematic of the unlikely stylistic tightrope Wovenhome walks between New Age and hip-hop, and it’s explicit in the contrast between the vaguely spiritual chorus (“It’s just one day spinning endlessly after me/ It’s just one ray of light that’s always on fire”) and Lamaar’s enlightened rhymes, which are buoyed by Fals’s pentatonic riffs on the ngoni and a classic boom-bap rhythm on the drums.

The instrumental track “Sunrise on Mount Abe” comes off as earthy techno, with time signature changes and a tricky rhythmic feel in five that does nothing to deter the music’s danceability.

Wovenhome’s innovative folk-pop and international inspiration are a revelation, making “Waving Trees” the best recording I’ve heard out of Rochester this year. — BY DANIEL J. KUSHNER 16 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

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Live music on the menu

Enjoy a concert with your cuisine.

ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN WILLIAMSON

18 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

MUSIC

Nashvilles

4853 W. HENRIETTA ROAD | NASHVILLESNY.COM

BY DANIEL J. KUSHNER @DANIELJKUSHNER

J

am band Phish sang it best: “Let’s go out to dinner and see a movie.” That sentiment rings just as true if you’re looking to supplement your local supper with songs, so we’ve rounded up seven choice spots to satisfy your hunger for both savory and sound.

to classical guitarist Ken Luk. Feeling peckish for more than just popcorn? The café menu features paninis, salads, and pastries to go with your java, wine or beer. No cover, but tipping the musicians is highly encouraged. kitchen) offers items such as wings, mac ‘n’ cheese, and sliders, and there’s a surprisingly wide selection of beer in addition to the classy signature cocktails. No cover.

Nashvilles (sic) proudly boasts its tagline, “Rockin’ Country Redneck Tavern,” right on the storefront.

As advertised, there are regular rock shows on Fridays and country bands on Saturdays — and the aesthetic is pure southern honkytonk. The ample bar is decked out in wood paneling with a tin ceiling, and the live music room features a second-floor balcony and generous floor space for weekly line dancing.

There’s a hefty bar food menu, including quesadillas, potato skins, burgers, and steaks, so put on your best cowboy hat and mosey on down. Cover charge for shows.

Flight Wine Bar B-Side

5 LIFTBRIDGE LANE, FAIRPORT | FAIRPORTBSIDE.COM

B-Side has that beloved hole-inthe-wall atmosphere without any of the dilapidation. This musicthemed establishment has live performances Wednesday through Saturday, with a focus on local singer-songwriters and rock bands.

It’s easy to place your order for burgers, sandwiches, poutine, and craft beer at the bar and then head in for the music. No cover.

The Daily Refresher 293 ALEXANDER STREET | THEDAILYREFRESHER.COM

Every Sunday from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., The Daily Refresher hosts local musicians, typically singersongwriters like Jackson Cavalier and Sugar Glider. The Refresher’s on-site food truck (and during the snowier months, their cozy

262 EXCHANGE ST. | WINEBARFLIGHT.COM

Flight Wine Bar plays host to jazz performances every Friday and Saturday. The sophisticated establishment has intimate vibes, ideal for a conversational hang with friends or a first date. As the name suggests, there are plenty of wine flights to choose from. Although it’s not the place for a full meal, Flight’s great for appetizers, including a build-yourown charcuterie board. Seating is limited so it helps to call ahead, but there’s no cover charge.

The Little Café 240 EAST AVENUE | THELITTLE.ORG/CAFE

You can hear live music in The Little Theatre’s adjoining café each evening from 7 to 9 p.m., ranging from the folk singer-songwriters like the Spring Chickens and jazz trios like the The Fallopian Grooves

Lovin’ Cup

300 PARK POINT DRIVE | LOVINCUP.COM

Lovin’ Cup has a spacious dining room, large stage, and plenty of seating — the perfect layout for enjoying a compelling singer, original rock band, or tribute act from the comfort of your table or booth. Each menu item is a punny popular music reference, including a “Rage Against the Green” salad, “Ring of Fire” burger, and “Beefstie Boys” panini. There’s also an open mic each Tuesday from 7 to 9:30 p.m. Expect a cover charge.

Smokin’ Hot Chicks BBQ

25 PARCE AVENUE, SUITE 170, FAIRPORT | SMOKINHOTCHICKSBBQ.COM

This joint understands that barbeque and tasty tunes make for a great pairing. Every night of the week, there’s live music with mainstream appeal and plenty of space to enjoy it, from the danceable space in front of the stage and numerous indoor picnic tables to the large bar in back.

You’ll definitely want to try one of the “Meat Plates,” a BBQ spin on the Rochester classic. No cover charge. roccitymag.com CITY 19

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At Essex, vibes matter just as much as music MUSIC

BY PATRICK HOSKEN

D

ave Drago has opened plenty of music venues, but none of them had a former hot yoga studio where the stage ended up. That’s a first for him at Essex, Rochester’s newest music hall which opened on Friday, Oct. 6.

Essex is located at 1048 University Ave. in the former space occupied by M/Body fitness studio. A century ago, it contained a car dealership that sold the Essex Coach, which inspired the venue’s name.

Now, Drago and his partners have transformed it once again.

Hometown soul powerhouse Danielle Ponder opened Essex with back-to-back performances on both Oct. 6 and 7.

Drago, who also operates and records music at 1809 Studios in Macedon, is used to making the most of the space he has. “I don’t like to go to concerts and I don’t like to go to festivals,” he said.

The idea for Essex? “Let’s make a venue I’d want to go to.”

That idea began with his partners at SCN Hospitality, the group behind local restaurants The Revelry, Branca Midtown, Bitter Honey, Velvet Belly, Nocino, and Ziggy’s. They brought in Drago on March 28, just over six months before opening — construction on the actual venue didn’t begin until August 1.

20 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Essex co-owners Dave Drago, Zack Mikida, Mack Hartman, and Josh Miles.

PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

Chi the Realist performing at Essex. PHOTO BY FRED MCCOY

With hospitality at the fore, the Essex team aims to create good vibes just as much as a greatsounding room with toptier talent. Outside, there’s an ample parking lot, an aspect Drago believes will help sell the venue.

Inside, meanwhile, Drago and co-owners Zack Mikida, Josh Miles, and Mack Hartman found inspiration in certain “swanky” music halls in New York City, like City Winery, that avoid what Drago labeled the “cattle call” — herd ‘em in, stage the show, and herd ‘em out.

“It doesn’t have to be, ‘I love this band so much, I’ll suffer whatever this venue has to throw at me,’” Drago said. Instead, they’re chasing a more elemental guest interaction: “What do they have? That’s good enough. I like that place.”

To that end, there are many personal touches. Lighting elements wrap around support pillars so that, in Drago’s words, “the room will have a glow to it even when the lights are down.”

Two small bars punctuate the back corners, maybe even a few familiar faces pouring drinks.

“We have such a wonderful pool of consummate professionals that are running other bars,” Mikida said. “There’s all these favorites we can pull from. People can come in and be like, ‘Oh wow, what are you doing here?’”

With a capacity of about 800, the goal is drawing in national touring acts, not necessarily local groups. “We don’t want to shut Photo City [Music Hall] down.

We love Photo City!” Drago said.

“We don’t want to take artists away from the great stages that already

Danielle Ponder headlined Essex's first show on October 6. PHOTO BY FRED MCCOY

exist in this town.”

Drago, Mikida, and Hartman handle the talent buying in-house.

They’re currently having logistical conversations with bookers and promoters about future headliners, their teams, and the local acts who would ideally offer support.

“Hospitality is multifaceted in this space,” Mikida said. “It’s not only the guest-facing side of things. It’s

also the person who’s playing that night, or their crew.”

Next up, local favorites Joywave are set for a two-night stand Nov. 16-17. Mikaela Davis will hit the stage on Dec. 9. Between those, tickets are on sale for shows from Lucero, Led Zeppelin tribute act Mothership, Hypnotic Brass Ensemble, and more. roccitymag.com CITY 21

///////////////////////////////////////////////////

Closing down three-plus decades of music, arts, and drinking with Leon Redbone.

End of an error ARTS

BY JEFF SPEVAK @JEFFSPEVAK1

I

am in a reflective mood these days.

Because I am bringing an end to this long, strange trip. Forty-four years of writing for newspapers, web sites and, these last five or so years, offering radio commentary.

As an entertainment writer, I concede I am no longer relevant: I cannot name one Taylor Swift song.

And now, someone else is gonna have to write those damn Rochester Jazz Festival haikus.

It has been a career initially spent – or misspent, perhaps – as a sportswriter and editor. Jobs in seven cities over my first 10 years in the business.

Interviews ranging from Pete Rose to Mickey Mantle (who seemed a bit hungover that morning). And a Finnish Olympic ski jumper, who said the best way to train for the event – and summon the courage to slide down that mountainside ramp to launch himself airborne – was to leave a bottle of vodka, as a reward, at the end of the downhill run.

Minus the skis, that’s kind of how it’s worked for me as well all these years.

I figured the Rochester stop might last five years. Even after the first three years, as I bolted from sports, and the nonsense that accompanies it, to the arts pages of the local paper.

That was 31 years ago. Wrong, once again.

Why did I stay so long? Tired of packing and moving? Or perhaps it was the fascinating opportunities that continuously presented themselves.

Such as the winter afternoon I spent with Leon Redbone walking through

22 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Riverside Cemetery in search of the grave of Lee Morse, a female jazz singer of the 1920s and ’30s, and a favorite of Redbone’s.

I wasn’t sure how to take the rolling anachronism of a man. He talked and sang songs that sounded as though they were coming out of an old Victrola. He dressed like someone from the past who had stepped through a portal and found himself in a future that he wasn’t quite interested in being a part of. He was wary of these times, he said. No good would come of the technologies obscuring our humanity.

In simpler times, Redbone said, at least we could see the dangers that confronted us: we were doomed to be slaughtered by some genetically inferior horde riding out of the hills.

Quirky. Kinda funny. Was he simply staying in character for my benefit? Or was he always like this?

Morse was a perfect Holy Grail of Jazz for Redbone. Born in rural Oregon, she began recording jazz in 1924. She had a few hits, although a hit was defined a little differently in her day than it is now. “I’ve Got Five Dollars,” that was one. “If You Want the Rainbow,” that was another. Sometimes she yodeled in the midst of the song.

She was in a few short films as well.

She was quirky. Kinda funny.

But her career dried up, and heavy drinking seemed to play a role. A few comeback attempts failed. She married a man from Rochester in 1946, and launched yet another comeback attempt. She sang here in clubs and appeared on the radio. But again, the comeback failed, and she died here in 1954, at age 57.

Redbone and I never found Morse’s grave that afternoon. Instead, we went back to his hotel, sat at the bar and drank a couple of whiskies. I returned to Riverside Cemetery later that spring,

PHOTO BY AARON WINTERS

the breakfast meeting with a handful of invited guests was locked. We stood in front of the door as a hotel employee wandered off to find a key.

“You look really tired,” I said.

Franken admitted the week’s travel schedule had been pretty rough.

“Well, let’s sit while we wait,” I said.

So we sat. On the floor. We talked a little about the rumors that Franken was considering a run for the U.S. Senate seat from Minnesota, rumors he had neither confirmed nor denied. He then went on for a few minutes about what he’d hope to accomplish as a senator.

I said something like, “You know, you’ve pretty much admitted right here that you’re going to run.” He just smiled.

In the early days of the COVID pandemic, Sen. Chuck Schumer showed up in town to describe some of the federal government’s programs designed to save our music culture from the coronavirus pandemic. There he was, in the Bug Jar. Rochester’s tiny indie-rock club. “I heard the Black Keys – they were one of my favorites – and Lizzo played here?” he said. “Wow. So this is a pretty good place. Pretty hip place.”

Chuck Schumer… digging The Black Keys.

Lou Gramm showed me some of his cars, cool ’60s-era Chevys with an eye for design that no auto-manufacturing conglomerate bothers with anymore.

Local musicians? Yes, we can call Gramm a local musician. We’re so blessed. The first time I heard Danielle Ponder, she was singing R&B and soul in Java’s Cafe on Gibbs Street. Now she’s on “Jimmy Kimmel Live!” and playing stages all over the world. The pop band Joywave as well, touring the U.S. and Europe, hitting the late-night talk shows.

Yet when the tours are over, they

and did find where Morse is buried, beneath one of those flat grave markers.

We hadn’t found it because of the snow.

Redbone is dead now. I’m not.

Maybe now is the time to look back, read through the old stories. Pull out pieces of the best ones, and present them here. Years ago, I estimated I had done 1,000 interviews. Mostly musicians.

Mostly on the telephone. Patti Smith.

B.B. King. Peter Gabriel.

David Byrne painted a nice picture of his surroundings for me: sitting in a comfortable armchair in his living room, drinking a glass of white wine. Elvis Costello didn’t exactly confess to being thrown out of Scorgie’s, the old bar on Andrews Street, but did concede that “it could have happened.”

In person, I interviewed Johnny Cash and porn star Traci Lords. I spent one surreal evening drinking beers with film director Oliver Stone, who was in Rochester to speak at a college and equally eager to hang out in a bar frequented by college women.

Al Franken and I arrived early at a downtown Rochester hotel in 2006, before he was to broadcast his “Air America” radio show live from The Vanessa Severo Little Theatre. The room reserved forin “Frida...A self portrait.” PHOTO BY MIKKI SCHAFFNER CONTINUED ON PAGE 26

Spevak moderating an event onstage at The Little Theatre. FILE PHOTO

come home to Rochester.

I miss the irreverence of all of those local garage pop bands that used to play the Bug Jar. But an evening is still well spent at The Little Theatre Café with The Margaret Explosion.

What’s it all add up to? By now, I’m likely closing in on 2,000 interviews.

And plowing through all of those would be an insane task.

So I’ll just think back on those 31 years. Whatever comes to mind ...

Tony Bennett. He told me about serving

in the U.S. Army during World War II – he was Anthony Benedetto then – sitting in his foxhole on the edge of the Battle of the Bulge. And how he and the rest of his fellow soldiers could hear the German soldiers in their own trenches, their voices carrying across the snowcovered field separating the two armies.

Thomas Warfield. The director of dance

at Rochester Institute of Technology and senior lecturer at the school’s National Technical Institute for the Deaf, Department for Performing Arts, Warfield recalled the New York City afternoon when he had lunch with the conductor and composer Leonard Bernstein. A lunch that, Warfield said, “changed my whole life. He said to me,

‘The artist is the person who has the vision and moves society ahead. That’s your job.’”

The arts. Moving society forward.

Robin L. Flanigan. Her book, “100 Things to Do In Rochester Before You Die” functions as a guide book. Before I die? What’s the hurry? And there’s gossip here: Richardson’s Canal House was a nudist colony in the 1930s.

Stewart Copeland. The one-time

drummer for The Police was in town for a collaborative concert with the Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra.

By then, Copeland had moved on to writing film soundtracks. “Since I didn’t know how to do it, I did it all different. Which is another word for revolutionary.”

“Revolutionary and wrong are sometimes the same thing.”

Scott Wallace and Doug Curry are the Friday night DJs on WRUR-FM (88.5).

The music is ultra-cool soul, R&B, jazz and blues. “And then, of course, the fun was really trying to find the obscure stuff,” Wallace said. “That’s a bottomless pit right there, when you do something like that. And 40 years in, CONTINUED ON PAGE 24

roccitymag.com CITY 23

I’m still finding stuff I never heard of.”

And it’s historically important, as Curry said, “This music stopped being what it was with integration. Once integration happened, then the bedrock of the blues was wearing away. This music is about living in a certain way, in a certain place, in a certain time. And that certain place and time and way of living disappeared, gradually. Or so people thought. Hiphop said, ‘No, it’s still here....’”

Noam Chomsky. Linguist, writer,

deep thinker, media critic and, as our conversation was in 2016, a citizen horrified by the prospect of the oncoming Trump presidency. Before he was to speak at The Little Theatre, we talked. Just that morning, he had been reading a newspaper story on a poll showing 48% of Americans do not believe in evolution. “That’s a remarkably low level of general education,” Chomsky said. “I don’t think you can find that anywhere else.

Maybe a primitive society.”

Sarah Freligh. She lives in downtown

Rochester, composing poems and short stories whose characters carry the weight of people who have just about had enough of this world. Washing up like driftwood on the river’s shore.

Freligh composes her stories in yellow, spiral-bound notebooks, rather than on a computer. The internet, she said, “makes you feel connected, when you’re anything but.”

Nod is Joe Sorriero, Tim Poland and Brian Shafer. A Rochester band that’s created

a ragged punk-rock niche for more than three decades. “Sometimes people just don’t get it,” Shafer said. “And that’s OK. We’re kind of used to that.”

Sorriero added, “People used to have to declare that they ‘got it’ or not. What I don’t understand is, why you would have to ‘get it.’ You don’t have to ‘get it.’ It’s not a prerequisite for listening to music, or being into music.” And from Shafer, “I think the best Nod shows are the ones where people said they didn’t know what was going to happen next.

And they were OK with that.”

Awadagin Pratt. A nationally renowned classical pianist who played with the Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra and a Black man, Pratt recalled his time as a student at Johns Hopkins University when he was late for class, running down the street. A cop chased him. “I 24 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

was on the steps of the school, he was demanding identification. The security guards were telling him I was a student.

He had assumed, I guess, I was running from a crime or something. I said, ‘When my white friends are running down the street, do your colleagues ask if they’re OK?’ Not, like, what they’re doing.”

Seth Faergolzia. A Rochester musician

whose sound seems to come to us from the third moon of Saturn. A puppeteer who makes his own clothes. A painter of pictures, sometimes in conjunction with music. A creator of Claymation videos.

Composer of the musical “Fun Wearing Underwear.” Skeptic. “I believe we can change our immediate environments, but I don’t know if you can change the general greed of this giant mass of humans.”

Joanna Scott. An acclaimed novelist and professor at the University of Rochester, Scott recalled one rationale for choosing to live here rather than a literary center such as New York City. “Maybe it’s better to be a little isolated as an artist.”

Dayna Kurtz. In Rochester for a show at

The Little Theatre, Kurtz explained why she believes popular American music is on the decline. “The thing that I like so much about 1947 to 1962 musically is that every American form of art, in my opinion, was kind of at its zenith.

Like, country music was best then. To me, you know? Jazz was at its best. Rock and roll was at its best. And there were much, much fewer lines between them.

And radio stations. You listen to a radio show from that era, they’ll play Dinah Washington next to ‘How Much is That Doggie in the Window?’ It was before everything was so completely separated by genre.”

Roy McCurdy. The iconic jazz drummer,

a member of the Rochester Music Hall of Fame, said change isn’t guaranteed to be a move forward. “I think without a doubt, especially since Trump came in.

He tried to take everything backward anyway. It’s a shame, because things were going forward, and now it’s going backward. And the attitude that’s going around now since Trump came in, it’s a very dangerous attitude. It’s giving some people the right to do things that they probably never would have done before.”

He said that a few years before Jan. 6, 2022.

Spevak being interviewed by News Director Randy Gorbman. FILE PHOTO

Jill Sobule. A singer and songwriter,

she played The Little Theatre. “I am intrigued by what we get as news, and what makes the headlines, and what doesn’t make the headlines. What makes a person follow a cult or an extreme movement…? It must be comforting to have such a black-and-white view of the world.”

Danny Deutsch. In 2008, he opened one

of Rochester’s best live music venues, Abilene Bar & Lounge. The bands can be unpredictable. “I walked into the dressing room one time on the second floor,” he said, “and Lee Ving from Fear was throwing a television out the window. It happened to be my black and white television, but he was throwing it out the window.”

Genesee Johnny. The Rochester singer-

songwriter concedes that, when it comes to being a white guy playing the blues, there may not be prejudice or racism in the intent. “It was never about that, ‘You can’t do it and be white.’ It was never about keeping anybody from doing it.

It’s more about, just like all the other race-relations stuff in our country, you just kind of succumb to the whole white supremacy, white structure of things.

And people don’t even realize it’s going on, or that they’re actively participating in it. They don’t mean it to be that way, and they don’t want it to come across that way. It’s just how it ends up being.”

Watkins & the Rapiers. The Rochester band has now written more than 100

Christmas songs, which it believes is a world record. For this world, anyway.

As the band’s Kerry Regan noted, “We’ve covered a lot of topics related to Christmas, trying to dig deep.” And that’s where the challenge lies. “How deep can you dig into Christmas?”

Rosie Flores. We were talking about her

long career as The Rockabilly Filly. Years touring. Then, silence from her end of the phone line. And… a slight noise. I realized she was crying. After taking a few moments to compose herself, she explained. All of those years on the road, playing for audiences, had never allowed time for Flores to have a family, raise kids. Live a life like the ones lived by so many of the people who came to her shows. She had sacrificed for her music.

Connie Deming. Is she the best singer in Rochester’s clubs? Depends on your measuring stick. But after I got laid off by the daily newspaper here, my friends threw a party for me. They used all of the plaques I had won over the years, writing awards, as coasters for the casserole dishes. And in the backyard that night, even better than crickets, the guitars came out. Musicians singing.

Deming did Jefferson Airplane’s “White Rabbit.” And I sat at the back of the crowd, in the shadows of the trees, because I didn’t want anyone to see that I was crying. Not because I was sad. But because the music was so beautiful.

Jeff Spevak is senior arts writer for WXXI/CITY Magazine—for a few more days, anyway. He can be reached at (585) 258-0343 or jspevak@wxxi.org.

roccitymag.com CITY 25

CHOCK FULL OF ARTS, MUSIC AND CULTURE TO DO THIS MONTH

DAILY Complete calendar of events online at roccitymag.com WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 1 THEATER

“Mr. Parent”

Geva Theatre Center, gevatheatre.org Before the star of this one-man show, Maurice Emmanuel Parent, became the dynamic stage presence in Boston he is today, he was a struggling actor who turned to teaching in Boston public schools to make ends meet.

This funny and moving 90-minute show recounts how the children he taught left their mark on “Mr. Parent,” while Parent made his mark on the stage. The deep-from-the-heart show, which was written by veteran playwright Melinda Lopez with Parent, premiered last year in Boston (where else?) to strong reviews. The show opens at 7 p.m. today on the Fielding Stage and plays through Nov. 19. Tickets range from $34 to $42.

DAVID ANDREATTA

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2 THEATER

“And the Four Last Things”

MuCCC, muccc.org All I had to hear was that this play by Rochester’s Samantha Marchant was inspired by the rich yet cryptic visual world of the 15th-century Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch. Presented by local theater group Nickel Flour, “And the Four Last Things” depicts a supernatural struggle between an angel and a devil as they haggle over the soul of a dead man. Ben McRae, Drea Bim, and Kiefer Schenk star in this intimate drama in its final run of performances, through November 4. Jon Froehlich and Rachel Kodweis co-direct. 7:30 p.m. $10-$30.

DANIEL J. KUSHNER

26 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

todo

Rogan Experience” podcast. Dillon’s stage persona is confrontational, and he seems to relish pushing buttons and tweaking people, especially those in positions of power. If you like your comedy insightful and bitter, Dillon’s your man. 7:30 p.m. Tickets start at $50. DK

including South Dakota-based author Achut Deng, who writes about her experiences as a young refugee from Sudan. Altrusa International of Rochester will hold a book drive on site and collect new and gently used children’s books. The event takes place from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and admission is free. REBECCA RAFFERTY

OPERA

“To Hell and Back” / “We’ve Got Our Eye on You”

Kilbourn Hall at Eastman School of Music, esm.rochester.edu/theatre The annual fall production from Eastman School of Music’s opera students is often an opportunity for the singers to perform important if somewhat obscure stage productions of 20th and 21st-century works. This season is no exception, but audiences get to enjoy two operas for the price of one. EOT fittingly pairs composer Jake Heggie’s “To Hell and Back” — a new take on and critique of the “Rape of Persephone” — with composer Dr. Nkeiru Okoye’s Perseus story “We’ve Got Our Eye on You” as it reexamines ancient myths for our modern time.

Tonight’s opening performance starts at 7:30 p.m., and the production runs through November 5. $20. DK FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 3

PARTY

Shrek Rave

Photo City Music Hall, photocitymusichall.com It’s a Shrek-themed rave where the venue will be made up like his swamp.

The promo image for it says, “It’s dumb, just come have fun,” and further states that “Cool is dead!” and “Who cares!” What more is there to say? Grab whoever counts as your Donkey and go do whatever people do at raves. Doors open at 9 p.m. and hopefully things get weird as the night goes on, though promoters say inflatable costumes will not be allowed. Tickets are $24.50. JEREMY MOULE

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 4 LITERATURE

Rochester Children’s Book Festival

COMEDY

Tim Dillon

Kodak Center, kodakcenter.com If you’re a comedy connoisseur, you’re probably familiar with Tim Dillon.

No stranger to political incorrectness, the stand-up comedian made waves for his unflattering impression of political pundit Meghan McCain and has been a frequent guest on “The Joe

Monroe Community College, rcbfest.com As a voracious young reader, I loved visiting libraries and was thrilled whenever the book fair came to school. These days, regional kids can look forward to the annual Rochester Children’s Book Festival, which is a wonderland for little bookworms.

Now in its 26th year, the fest features presentations by 50 authors and illustrators, book-related crafts and other activities, book signings, and of course, books for purchase. Returning award-winning authors Jane Yolen, Linda Sue Park, and Vivian Vande Velde are joined by many newcomers,

FILM

“The Rocky Horror Picture Show”

ROC Cinema, roccinema.com It’s the last screening of the Halloween season for this cult classic. The 1975 horror-comedy musical — starring Susan Sarandon, Meat Loaf, and of course, Tim Curry as the genderfluid extraterrestrial scientist Dr. Frank-N-Furter — is perhaps the most unlikely success story in film history. Originally panned by critics and ignored by filmgoers, the movie is loaded with infectious campiness and irreverent silliness, which make it an ideal audience-participation experience. Now the longest-running release in the history of movies, “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” isn’t just something you go just to watch.

It’s an event you dress up for, act out and yell now-iconic lines from the script back at the screen with the rest of the lovable weirdos as Hoopla! The Western New York Rocky Horror Picture Show’s shadow cast acts out all the key moments from the film.

The doors open at 9:30 p.m., and the movie starts at 10 p.m. Tickets are $10, and prop kits are available for an additional $3. DK

CONTINUED ON PAGE 28

roccitymag.com CITY 27

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 6

COMMUNITY

MUSIC

Flying Squirrel Fundraiser Brunch

Flying Squirrel Community Space, instagram.com/flying_squirrel_roc Located on Clarissa St., the Flying Squirrel is entering its 15th year in its role as a grassroots community hub, providing a space for lefty organizations meetings and rallies, teach-ins and workshops, music and memorials. The Squirrel’s annual fundraiser brunch takes place today from noon to 3 p.m., with food, an activist fair, live music, and art vendors. There’s a suggested donation of $10. The proceeds help fund the space’s operations and repairs. RR MUSIC

Clara and Dora

Society for Chamber Music in Rochester chambermusicrochester.org Even if you are a classical music fan or connoisseur, you likely have not had a chance to hear the expressive, romantic music written by Croatian violinist, composer, and countess Dora Pejačević. We’ve all been missing out, but can remedy that with a performance of Pejačević’s Piano Quartet, alongside music by Clara Schuman, Johannes Brahms, and Fritz Kreisler. The all-star cast of performers from the Society for Chamber Music in Rochester include violinist Juliana Athayde, violist Joshua Newburger, cellist David Ying, and pianist ChiaoWen Cheng, performing at t 4 p.m. at Beston Hall at Glazer Music Performance Center at Nazareth University. Tickets are $35.

Tool

Blue Cross Arena, bluecrossarena.com Even if you’re not a Tool fan, it’s nearly impossible to argue with the prog-metal band’s technical prowess.

For my money, no rock band is as rhythmically mesmerizing. Formed in 1990, the Maynard James Keenanfronted quartet shows no signs of stopping. After the pandemic put things on hold, Tool continues to tour behind its 2019 album “Fear Inoculum.” For those who like their music complex and cryptic. Doors open at 6 p.m. and the show starts at 7:30 p.m. Tickets are selling fast, remaining seats start at $115. DK FILM

“Psycho”

The Little Theatre, thelittle.org Sure, Halloween was last month.

So what. Alfred Hitchcock’s classic psychological slasher flick is great viewing any time of the year. And if you don’t know the story of the infamous Bates Motel shower scene I recommend going down that rabbit hole right now. The approach was born of necessity as Hitchcock searched for a way to appease censors who were concerned about the sight of too much skin or blood. The end result serves as a great example of how smart camerawork and editing, as well as showing less not more, can effectively create tension and terror.

The film starts at 7:30 p.m. and admission is $5-$8. JM

MONA SEGHATOLESLAMI

CONTINUED ON PAGE 35

28 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

INSIDE WXXI PUBLIC MEDIA | WXXI-TV PBS | WXXI NEWS/NPR WXXI CLASSICAL | WRUR-FM 88.5 | THE LITTLE THEATRE

PUMPKIN PIE For the win

INGREDIENTS

• 2 cups pumpkin purée

• 3 eggs

• 1 cup sugar

• 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk

• 1 ¼ teaspoons Saigon cinnamon

• ½ pint heavy cream, for garnish

• ½ teaspoon ginger

• 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

• ¼ teaspoon ground cloves

DIRECTIONS

Which pie rules your Thanksgiving feast?

Pumpkin, apple, pecan, sweet potato? We polled the staffers at WXXI and pumpkin pie came out on top with more than 61% of the votes. Apple pie took second with 22% of the votes.

For many, Thanksgiving just wouldn’t be the same without pumpkin pie, which became synonymous with Thanksgiving feasts in the early 1700s when Thanksgiving became a New England regional holiday. Pumpkin pie became an integral part of the celebration – so much so that in 1705, when a small town in Connecticut experienced a molasses shortage, one of the key ingredients of their pumpkin pie, they postponed the holiday for a week until a shipment came in via the Connecticut River.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the pumpkin purée, sugar, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves just until they are mixed. Add eggs and whisk until they are well blended. Gradually add the evaporated milk, whisking constantly, until the filling is thick and smooth. Pour the filling into the prepared pie shell.

Bake 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake 45 to 50 minutes more until the filling is set and a sharp knife inserted into the center of the pie comes out clean. Remove the pie from the oven and cool on a wire rack.

In a large mixing bowl of an electric mixer, whip the heavy cream and confectioners’ sugar until soft peaks form. Serve the pie with whipped cream, if desired.

Cook time: 60 minutes Yield: 10 servings

Whatever pie you fancy on this day of gratitude, we hope you enjoy it! And, to be fair we are sharing recipes for both pumpkin pie and apple pie.

MORE OF AN APPLE PERSON?

Check out this quick and simple pumpkin pie filling recipe (without molasses) courtesy of A Home for Christy Rost: Thanksgiving, which airs November 19 at 10 p.m. on WXXI-CREATE.

No judgement! Scan the QR code to check out an excellent apple pie recipe courtesy of “The Apple Whisperer” John Bunker and PBS.

roccitymag.com CITY 29

Think of it as your “Hibernation App”.

With winter coming, it’s time to bundle up and hunker down. And with the PBS App that proposal became a lot more fun! Watch the best of PBS and WXXI anytime, anywhere on the PBS App. Stream your favorite shows on-demand and livestream shows from WXXI, all from your favorite device. Download the free PBS App wherever your get your apps and curl up with a great collection of programming.

The PBS App The best that WXXI & PBS has to offer!

PLUS HUNDREDS AND HUNDREDS MORE! 30 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

You can get started at: video.wxxi.org

WXXI TV • THIS MONTH American Experience: The War on Disco Friday, November 3 at 10:30 p.m. on WXXI-TV Explore the culture war that erupted over the rise of disco music. Originating in underground Black and gay clubs, disco unseated rock as America’s most popular music by the late 1970s.

But many diehard rock fans viewed disco as shallow and superficial. The hostility came to a head on July 12, 1979, when a riot broke out at “Disco Demolition Night” at a baseball game in Chicago.

Groundbreakers Tuesday, November 21 at 8 p.m. on WXXI-TV Tennis star and activist Billie Jean King and seven female sports icons discuss how Title IX and their own achievements changed the course of women’s sports.

Featuring Nancy Lieberman, Chloe Kim, Naomi Osaka, Jackie Joyner-Kersee, Julie Foudy, Diana Flores and Suni Lee. Credit: Courtesy of Cody Rappaport / Six West Media

Photo: Felipe Rose of the Village People dances on a bar, 1980. Credit: Courtesy of Alamy

To Be of Service

Concert for George

Friday, November 10 at 10 p.m. on WXXI-TV The effect of war is profound for all the players engaged in the conflict. Veterans returning home may experience a disconnect from the world they once inhabited and struggle to function. Some veterans come home with the psychological injury, Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). Meet several veterans with PTSD and the service dogs helping them return to the world, including veteran Phil Bauer of Canandaigua and his service dog Champ (pictured).

Thursday, November 23 at 9 p.m. on WXXI-TV On November 29, 2002, one year after the passing of music legend George Harrison, a performance tribute was organized in his honor. Held at London’s Royal Albert Hall, the momentous evening featured Harrison’s songs and music he loved, performed by a lineup that included Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr, Tom Petty, Billy Preston, Eric Clapton, Dhani Harrison and many more.

Credit: Richard Young

Credit: Josh Aronson

JFK: Breaking the News

England Made with Love

Monday, November 20 at 9 p.m. on WXXI-TV On November 22, 1963, the motorcade transporting President John F. Kennedy was met by thousands of citizens and hundreds of members of the press as it slowly made its way through downtown Dallas.

Moments later, the president’s assassination would forever change the country, the world, and the landscape of broadcast journalism. This film offers a close-up look at how reporters responded to the national tragedy.

Monday, November 27 at 8 p.m. on WXXI-TV Explore artisan craftsmanship and hidden treasures in one of the world’s most beautiful countries. You’ll meet the skilled watchmakers, weavers, bookbinders and roof thatchers who teach hands-on skills to the next generation of apprentices.

Photo: Nick Walker and his son carry reed to start thatching a roof.

Credit: Courtesy of Thomas Jacobi

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TURN TO WXXI CLASSICAL FOR MUSIC PERFECTLY TUNED TO YOUR DAY Reclaiming the Sound Waves: Connor Chee Friday, November 10 at 3 p.m. on WXXI Classical Navajo pianist, composer, and Eastman School of Music graduate Connor Chee has embarked on a mission to translate traditional Navajo vocables to the modern piano. Host Scott Blankenship talks with Chee about his artistic process, the importance of preserving Navajo music for future generations, and the Land Back movement.

FOR YOUR THANKSGIVING DAY LISTENING PLEASURE… EVERY GOOD THING Thursday, November 23 at 9 a.m. on WXXI Classical Andrea Blain hosts a visit with classical music fans around the country as they give thanks and celebrate one of life’s most meaningful gifts: an hour of stories and music to celebrate Thanksgiving.

Credit: Courtesy of Connor Chee

My Journey, Your Journey: A Cantus Immigration Special Friday, November 24 at 3 p.m. on WXXI Classical In 2002, then President George W. Bush signed the Homeland Security Act, establishing the Department of Homeland Security. In this special, renowned men’s ensemble Cantus presents works anchored by Elise Witt’s piece of the same name and explores the courage of those who leave their homes in search of a brighter future and how they adapt to their new homeland. This program honors the struggle, courage, and deep humanity of migration with music from around the world, as well as a newly commissioned piece by Melissa Dunphy, one of today’s most compelling compositional voices.

Pipedreams Live!

November 10-12 WXXI and the Eastman School of Music present Pipedreams Live! Rochester – a series of three FREE concerts over three days hosted by Pipedream’s Michael Barone. Concerts will be performed by students and faculty of the Eastman School of Music. To learn more, visit WXXIClassical.org.

•

Fri. 11/10, 7:30 p.m. – St. Paul’s Church, 25 Westminster Rd., Rochester

•

Sat. 11/11, 7:30 p.m. – The United Church, 11 Gibson St., Canandaigua

•

Sun. 11/12, 4:00 p.m. – Christ Church, 141 East Ave., Rochester

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GIVING THANKS: A CELEBRATION OF FALL, FOOD & GRATITUDE Thursday, November 23 at 3 p.m. on WXXI Classical John Birge shares music and stories that reflect the meaning of gratitude. Featuring foodies, poets, writers and musicians who reflect on things for which they are thankful.

More Perfect: Andy Warhol and the Art of Judging Art Sunday, November 5 at 9 p.m. on WXXI News The law protects creators’ original work against copycats, but it also leaves the door open for some kinds of copying. When a photographer sues the Andy Warhol Foundation for using her work without permission, the justices struggle not to play art critics as they decide the case. More Perfect explores how this star-studded case offers a look at how this Court actually makes decisions.

Afternoons with Yarms Weekdays from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. on The Route Host Ryan Yarmel takes you through the afternoon with an eclectic mix of music – from rock to americana, soul to folk, acoustic to blues. You’ll hear songs by local bands, classics from well-known artists, favorites from national acts, and new tracks from emerging musicians. When you tune in, you’re sure to hear something familiar, something rare, and something new.

The Splendid Table’s Turkey Confidential Thursday, November 23 at 12 p.m. on WXXI News The Splendid Table’s Francis Lam comes to the rescue of Thanksgiving cooks, kitchen helpers, and dinner guests during the biggest cooking day of the year. Guests include chef Kristen Kish, Top Chef’s newest judge, Michigan chef and award-winning writer Abra Berens author of Pulp, A Practical Guide to Cooking with Fruit, Jocelyn Delk Adams of Grandbaby Cakes, and Dan Pelosi aka “GrossyPelosi” the exuberant author of Let’s Eat, 101 Recipes to Fill Your Heart and Home.

World Café Weekdays from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. on The Route This live performance and interview program, hosted and produced by Raina Douris features music and conversation from a variety of essential and emerging artists. roccitymag.com CITY 33

240 East Ave thelittle.org

NEW MOVIES THIS NOVEMBER AT THE LITTLE (release dates are subject to change)

PRISCILLA

NAPOLEON

OPENS NOV. 3 | When teenage Priscilla Beaulieu meets Elvis Presley at a party, the man who is already a meteoric rock-and-roll superstar becomes someone entirely unexpected in private moments: a thrilling crush, an ally in loneliness, a vulnerable best friend.

OPENS NOV. 22 | A personal look at the French military leader’s origins and swift, ruthless climb to emperor, viewed through the prism of Napoleon’s addictive, volatile relationship with his wife and one true love, Josephine.

THE PERSIAN VERSION OPENS NOV. 3 | When a large Iranian-American family gathers in New York City for the patriarch’s heart transplant, a family secret is uncovered and catapults the estranged mother and daughter into an exploration of the past.

THE HOLDOVERS OPENS NOV. 10 | A curmudgeonly instructor at a New England prep school is forced to remain on campus during Christmas break to babysit the handful of students with nowhere to go. Eventually, he forms an unlikely bond with one of them — a damaged, brainy troublemaker — and with the school’s head cook, who has just lost a son in Vietnam.

DREAM SCENARIO OPENS NOV. 22 | Paul Matthews (Nicolas Cage) finds his life turned upside down when millions of strangers suddenly start seeing him in their dreams.

NEXT GOAL WINS OPENS IN NOVEMBER Dutch coach Thomas Rongen attempts the nearly impossible task of turning the American Samoa soccer team from perennial losers into winners. Directed by Taika Waititi.

SALTBURN OPENS IN NOVEMBER From director Emerald Fennel (Promising Young Woman).

Struggling to find his place at Oxford University, student Oliver Quick finds himself drawn into the world of the charming and aristocratic Felix Catton, who invites him to Saltburn, his eccentric family’s sprawling estate, for a summer never to be forgotten.

ONE TAKE DOC SERIES: THE MISSION Thursday, Nov. 16 at 7:15pm + Saturday Nov. 18 at 3pm

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 6 @ 7:30PM PICKED BY NICOLE PROJECTED ON 35MM FILM! ALFRED HITCHCOCK’S LEGENDARY 1960 FILM ON THE BIG SCREEN. MAYBE SHOWER BEFOREHAND? 34 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

In 2018, a shocking event made headlines around the world: a young American missionary, John Chau, was killed by arrows while attempting to contact one of the world’s most isolated Indigenous peoples on remote North Sentinel Island.

From Emmy-winning directors Amanda McBaine and Jesse Moss (“Boys State”), The Mission uncovers the gripping story beyond the headlines.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// SPORTS

Ultimate Frisbee Pickup

Cobbs Hill Park, rocultimate.org/pickup Arguably the best way to enjoy the fall weather and test the winds. First choice is the “Culver Rd. Field” at the corner of Culver and Norris Roads.

Backups are the Tay House Field on Hillside Drive behind the school or the outfields of the softball fields between Norris Rd and I-490. Games commence at 5:30 p.m. Mondays.

THEATRE

“Moulin Rouge”

West Herr Performing Arts Center 885 East Main Street Baz Luhrmann. Meta-theatrical, meta-musical. Stagey. Cinematic.

Romantic. Are we tired of movie musicals being adapted for stage?

Maybe in the case of this one, it makes sense. Nov. 7 – 19. Tickets $47 - $109. MS WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 8

NOELLE EVANS

TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 7

COMEDY

Adam Sandler MUSIC

“Croce Plays Croce: 50th Anniversary Tour”

Kodak Center, kodakcenter.com Although musician A.J. Croce lost his famous singer-songwriter father Jim Croce to a fatal plane crash when he was only two, the now-52-year-old keeps the elder Croce’s memory alive by singing his songs. Jim Croce rose to prominence as a folk-rock artist in the early 1970s with hit songs such as “Operator (That’s Not the Way It Feels),” “Bad, Bad Leroy Brown,” “Time in a Bottle,” and “I’ll Have to Say I Love You in a Song.” A.J. Croce’s tour coincides with the release of the new Jim Croce compilation set called “The Definitive Croce.” The show begins at 7:30 p.m. Tickets currently start at $60. DK

Blue Cross Arena, bluecrossarena.com At this point, it’s a foregone conclusion that comedian and actor Adam Sandler is an American pop culture icon. But the man who got his start in the early ‘90s as a cast member on “Saturday Night Live” hasn’t forgotten his roots. He’s bringing his stand-up and signature musical performances on songs like novelty hit “The Chanukah Song” on a new tour titled “I Miss You.” The 2023 Mark Twain Prize winner has had an impressive, wide-ranging career, from the juvenile comedy album “They’re All Gonna Laugh at You!” and the now classic ‘90s comedy movies “Billy Madison,” “Happy Gilmore,” and “The Wedding Singer” to critically acclaimed performances in the films “Punch-Drunk Love” and “Uncut Gems.” Tickets for the 7:30 p.m. show currently start at $85. DK

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///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// exhibition, which highlights art from the gallery’s permanent collection that explores imagery defying society’s traditional take on what is beautiful.

With activities and the opportunity to make personal connections, DeTour is more than just your typical guided talk. The tour starts at 6 p.m.; meet at the admissions desk. The $20 registration cost includes admission to the museum. DK THEATER MUSIC

Charlie Parr

Bop Shop Records, bopshop.com You may not know the name Charlie Parr, but you should. The countryblues singer-songwriter has been on the scene since 2002. Parr’s music is for listeners who love heartfelt vocals invoking the backwoods, rootsy resonator guitars, and serious storytelling skills. The songs are reminiscent of tunes by Mississippi John Hurt, Dave Van Ronk, and “Spider” John Koerner, but you get the sense that the heartbreak you hear in Parr’s tracks is all his own. 8 p.m. $20-$25. DK THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 9 ART

Beyond Beauty DeTour

Memorial Art Gallery, mag.rochester.edu The MAG’s DeTour series is a great way to get up close and personal with the latest exhibition. Rather than drifting through the gallery to quickly view the art and move on to the next piece, DeTour provides museum visitors with a themed tour designed to engage you. MAG Curator Lauren Tagliaferro leads this experience of the “Beyond Beauty”

“Thy Name Is Woman”

Rochester Institute of Technology, rittickets.com This new production from RIT’s National Technical Institute for the Deaf and the School of Performing Arts is innovative on several levels. “Thy Name Is Woman” is a contemporary reimagining of Shakespeare’s iconic play “Hamlet,” in which Ophelia is the protagonist, and one of the Bard’s most underwritten characters gets her due. In the process, the action utilizes multi-sensory elements to give the audience a better sense of Ophelia’s tragedy. In addition to being presented in both spoken English and American Sign Language on distinctive performance tracks, audiences will also be able to take in the drama in Protactile, the language of the DeafBlind. The sitespecific production, created by faculty members Jill Bradbury, Andy Head, and Alexa Scott-Flaherty, will take place on the first and second floors of Lyndon Baines Johnson Hall. 7 p.m.

Tickets are $12 for the general public; $10 for RIT faculty, staff, and alumni; amd $5 for RIT students, youth, and senior citizens 60 and over. Additional performances take place on November 10 at 7 p.m., November 11 at 2 p.m. and 7 p.m., and November 12 at 2 p.m. DK

MUSIC

The Menzingers

Water Street Music Hall, waterstreetmusichall.live Punk band The Menzingers are no strangers to Rochester, having played the Bug Jar and Anthology multiple times. The Epitaph signed-artists have been slingin’ their distorted guitar-driven sound since 2006, and for older millennials like myself who like their rock music emo and angsty, this music hits the spot. The band is touring in support of the new album, “Some of It Was True,” which was released last month. Doors for the 18-and-over show open at 6:30 p.m., and the music starts at 7:30 p.m.

Microwave, Cloud Nothings, and Rodeo Boys play in support. $33. DK

Faggiano’s band Lauren and the Good Souls will hold down the set, but the singer-keyboardist is inviting additional artists to the stage as well, including Thomas Warfield, Kelly Izzo Shapiro, Teena Guarnere, and more. The show also features live painting from the stage by Lori Mulligan. The 7:30 p.m. show is sure to be a faithful homage to one of music’s most important and at times underappreciated voices. $25. DK SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 11

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 10

MUSIC

Negus Irap: “King Pari” Album Release Show MUSIC

“A Tribute to Joni Mitchell”

The Theater at Innovation Square, theaterais.com Rochester musician Lauren Faggiano has played tribute shows honoring influential singer-songwriter Joni Mitchell before, but never for as big a milestone as her 80th birthday.

Water Street Music Hall, waterstreetmusichall.live High-profile hip-hop shows featuring Rochester rappers are few and far between, so when a show like the album release for ascendent artist Negus Irap comes along, you’ve got to jump on it. Irap’s delivery is sometimes snotty and always defiant, and his distinctive voice and flow draw listeners in while avoiding rhythmic and lyrical clichés. The bill includes the formidable talent Hassan Mackey and more recent additions to the scene, Noah Fense

Monroe Ave. Dine in / Take out Curbside 11-9 Tues. - Sat. Closed Sun. & Mon.

Mt. Hope Ave. Dine in / Take out Curbside 11-9 Mon. - Sat. 12-8 Sun.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINE & VIETNAMESE PHO 36 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Now serving Banhmi sandwiches See Me Go 1677 Mt. Hope Ave.

NOVEMBER

850 EAST RIDGE ROAD Monday - Sunday 11:00am - 9:00pm 585-475-0716

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// and ThankYouQuata. Doors for the 18-and-over show open at 7 p.m. and the music drops at 8 p.m. $20. DK

misfits won’t be so alone. Tickets are $15 and doors open at 8 p.m. JM ART

Small Works 2023 opening reception

MUSIC

Left-Handed Second Baseman Album Release Party Three Heads Brewing, threeheadsbrewing.com Singer-songwriter Fran Broderick has performed under the memorable, if clunky moniker Left-Handed Second Baseman for the better part of a decade. Broderick sings in a soulful country drawl that has traces of Bruce Springsteen, Randy Newman, and even a touch of Muddy Waters as he races through breathless soulrock songs with tremendous heart.

Broderick and his backing band released “The Dogs Race to the Door” just last month, so you can expect plenty of cuts from the album as part of this release party. Doors open at 7:30 p.m. $10. DK

Main Street Arts, mainstreetartscs.org There’s something especially intriguing about small pieces of art. They invite you to get up close, to examine details and textures, and to really think about what’s in front of you. This is the 10th year that Main Street Arts in Clifton Springs has held this juried show of artworks under 12 inches. The gallery walls become absolutely packed with photos, drawings, prints, etchings, sculptures, and more comprising a variety of styles, techniques, and themes. This year there are 219 works of art by 204 artists from 29 states, and each piece was selected by Bradley Butler, Main Street Arts’s executive director and curator. The reception runs from 2-6 p.m. and admission is free (though the art is for sale). Awards will be announced at 4:30 p.m. JM SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 12

MUSIC

The Rush Project

Photo City Music Hall, photocitymusichall.com In 2020, rock music lost one of its best drummers, if not the best, with the death of Neil Peart from brain cancer. He’d had the illness for years, and since 2015, he and his bandmates in Rush, the equally talented Geddy Lee and Alex Lifeson, hadn’t toured.

The band ended in 2018. But its anthems have influenced plenty of bands who are now in the limelight.

Tonight, that will be The Rush Project, which says it “truly reproduces the sounds that made Rush a visionary and beloved band.” If you love Rush, get the heck out of your subdivisions and check this tribute band out. You can’t see Rush perform anymore, but you can experience a live performance of the band’s songs with fellow fanatics, meaning you dreamers and

SHOPPING

The Lucky Flea

Radio Social, theluckyflea.com Thank your granddad for donating that plaid button and get a jump on holiday gifting at this weekly vintage market featuring local creatives, collectors and curators. Browse more than 25 booths featuring everything from standout t-shirts and home goods to handmade earrings and candles. The market takes place 10a – 4p every Sunday in Radio Social’s back gaming area through the spring.

LEAH STACY

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//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// MUSIC

Michael Charles

75 Stutson Street, 75stutsonstreet.com Australian-born blues rock singerguitarist Michael Charles has been performing as a solo artist for 40 years, but he’s also played with blues greats such as Buddy Guy, Junior Wells, and James Cotton. Charles’s guitar style is introspective, but he can let loose and rip, too. The Chicago Blues Hall of Fame inductee’s latest release is a gritty, soulful rendition of the classic Glen Campbell hit “Wichita Lineman.” Doors at 6:30 p.m., music at 7 p.m. $18. DK MONDAY, NOVEMBER 13 ART

Write Now: Expressive Arts Journaling Workshops

The Yards, theyardsrochester.com Art is for everyone. But it’s not just about expressing to others — it’s about processing our own thoughts and feelings. Led by licensed mental health counselor Tracy Nemecek, this single-session workshop is designed to help you become more self-aware, cope better with life’s turmoil, and tap into your creativity. Whether you feel like journaling textually, visually, or both, all are welcome, and no prior experience is required. 6:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. $35, all journaling materials are included. DK TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 14 MUSIC

Metal Meltdown feat. WaldHexen

Record Archive, recordarchive.com This celebration of metal music is not for those with delicate ears. From 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., Record Archive’s The Backroom Lounge is the place to be for this happy hour event. For the first two hours, vinyl records will provide the metal music soundtrack and drink specials will be available.

At 7 p.m. Rochester black metal band WaldHexen plays a blistering set. The free event is hosted by Seth Voorhees and Mark Rapone; Resurgence Brewing Company will have a tasting.

DK

38 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 15 MUSIC

“Then and Now: Metamorphosis”

Hochstein Performance Hall, hochstein.org Why wait ‘till the evening for a concert when you can be serenaded at lunchtime with chamber music.

Presented by The Hochstein School and WXXI’s Classical 91.5, this series presents different classical performers each week. This time around, pianist Yi-Wen Chang will delve into the theme of repetition with a program that includes everything from Mozart’s “Twinkle Twinkle Little Star” to the work of Philip Glass to a composition from the classic Hayao Miyazaki film “Howl’s Moving Castle.” The concert is free, starts at 12:10 pm. and will be finished by 1 p.m. DK THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16

MUSIC

Hey Mabel

Iron Smoke Distillery, ironsmokedistillery.com This quartet’s brand of blues-inflected rock pairs well with Iron Smoke’s whiskey-swillin’ ways. Hey Mabel knows its way around a classic rock cover, and you may find the music pairs well with a shot or two. 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. $5. DK FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17 THEATER

“A Drag Queen Christmas”

Kodak Center, kodakcenter.com I can’t think of a more fun way to deck the halls than in drag. This show has the distinction of being

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// the longest-running drag tour in the country, and it’s not hard to see why.

Over-the-top performances with wonderfully gaudy costumes and pyrotechnics to match, it’s not just a drag show. It’s a queer musical revue that’s sure to get you in the holiday spirit, hosted by Miz Cracker with special guest Todrick Hall. 8 p.m.

Available tickets start at $48 and are selling quickly. DK

November 17, 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturday, November 18, and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sunday, November 19.

Tickets are $6 and include admission to the museum. RR SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 18

MUSIC MUSIC

Consider the Source

Flour City Station, flourcitystation.com Few bands have settled on a proprietary sonic blend of virtuosic, experimental, and trippy the way Consider the Source has. The instrumental trio consisting of multiinstrumentalist Gabriel Marin, bassist John Ferrara, and drummer Jeff Mann are equally adept at psychedelic, metal, improvisational, and internationally influenced compositions. No matter what the band plays at this gig, it’s guaranteed to be a trip. Tickets for the 21-and-over show with opening act Grub are $15 in advance and $18 at the door, which opens at 7:30 p.m.

Music starts at 8:30 p.m. DK SHOPPING

RMSC Council Holiday Bazaar

Rochester Museum & Science Center, rmsc.org/council This time of year, there’s no shortage of arts vendor events that provide excellent opportunities to get some holiday shopping done. Rochester Museum & Science Center makes great use of its five floors when it hosts its annual Holiday Bazaar, this year packing in an impressive 171 exhibitors — greatly increasing the chance of finding something for more folks on your list. Expect to find ceramics, jewelry, glass, woodwork, paintings, photography, fiber arts, floral crafts, and more. The event takes place 5 to 9 p.m. on Friday,

Driftwood

Sticky Lips BBQ Juke Joint, stickylipsbbq.com At this point in its career, the Binghamton-born Americana band Driftwood is an upstate New York institution. And although the group has been around for 17 years, its radio-ready folk-pop songs sound as fresh as ever. You may be more used to hearing Driftwood’s earnest, energetic shows at outdoor festivals like GrassRoots or rural Finger Lakes wineries, but the quintet’s show at Sticky Lips brings new meaning to the phrase “dinner and a show.” 8:30 p.m.

General admission (standing room) is $22-$25; table seating tickets are $30$35. DK MUSIC

Coral Moons

Flour City Station, flourcitystation.com Although singer-guitarist Carly Kraft and lead guitarist Justin Bartlett live in Canandaigua, pop-rock quartet Coral Moons still feels like the savvy Boston band it was at its start in 2018. But the busy band hasn’t forgotten Rochester. Webster native Kraft and company roll through town as it prepares to release a batch of singles this spring in advance of its sophomore album. Expect dynamic songs with plenty of soul, including some new tunes. Comfy opens the show. Doors part at 7 p.m., music begins at 8 p.m. $15-$20. DK

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//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 19

TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 21 FITNESS

ROCovery Tuesday Night Yoga

MUSIC

Levi Gangi & Kelly Izzo Shapiro

Lovin’ Cup, lovincup.com Two of the Rochester area’s brightest singer-songwriters team up as they did on Gangi’s latest album “Somebody Else’s Broken Heart.” They’ll each perform their solo songs, but the duo will undoubtedly complement one another and share the stage. Expect smooth harmonies supporting concise songs blending country, folk, pop, and even jazz sensibilities. There’s no excuse to miss out on this free show. 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. DK

ROCovery Fitness, rocoveryfitness.org When you need to center yourself, few activities are as proactive as yoga.

ROCovery Fitness provides yoga classes with those who are pursuing and maintaining sobriety in mind.

Utilizing the elements of earth, wind, fire, and water, participants will sync up their breath and movement. The class is free, and open to anyone with at least two days’ sobriety. DK WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 22

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20 MUSIC

“A Musical Celebration of Thanksgiving”

The Old Farm Cafe, theoldfarmcafe.com It’s starting to get festive, and The Old Farm Cafe has you covered with a free event to put you in the Thanksgiving spirit. The venue is equipped as a dinner theater spot, but it’s also suitable for a more casual occasion, with a menu that includes flatbread pizzas, sandwiches, wraps, and salads.

Pianist Max Robbins and others will provide the musical accompaniment.

5 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. DK

40 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

DANCE

“The Nutcracker”

Kodak Hall at Eastman Theatre, rpo.org Tchaikovsky’s ballet is an enduring holiday classic, as ubiquitous as snowmen, candy canes, and Kris Kringle. Tara Simoncic conducts the Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra in its reading of the whimsical score, and the Rochester City Ballet — led by coartistic directors Megan Kamler and Shannon Rodriguez — provides the sugar plum fairies, the battle with the Mouse King, and of course, the titular Christmas toy. “The Nutcracker” is an event for the whole family, and it’s not quite the holiday season without it. 7 p.m. Tickets start at $30; seats for children 17 and under are $21.

There are additional performances on November 24 and 25 at both 2 p.m. and 7 p.m., as well as a 2 p.m. performance at November 26. DK

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// SPORTS

Rochester Americans vs. Laval Rocket

Blue Cross Arena, amerks.com November is the perfect time for hockey. It’s also an exciting time to be an Amerks fan, with the AHL team and Buffalo Sabres farm club loaded with talented prospects and poised to make another deep run in the playoffs.

Tonight the team faces off against the Laval Rocket, the team that swept them in ‘21-’22 Eastern Conference quarterfinals. The puck drops at 7:05 p.m. Let’s go Amerks! $15-$43. DK

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 23 FITNESS

“The Feast” Thanksgiving Day Run/Walk

Blue Cross Arena, medvedrunwalk.com Thanksgiving is a time for food and family, but you don’t have to forego feeling fit. The traditional Thanksgiving Day run is as classic as stuffing and gravy, and Rochesterarea hoofers can enjoy the holiday stroll with either a five-mile run or a two-mile run/walk on the flat, outand-back course. Race packets can be picked up at Medved Running and Walking Outfitters on November 21 and 22, as well as on race day starting at 7:45 a.m. The race begins at 9 a.m. sharp. Race winners can win Thanksgiving pies courtesy of Special Touch Bakery, but you can also order a pie outright. $ 40-$45 entry fee. DK FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 24 MUSIC

Public Water Supply

Flour City Station, flourcitystation.com Public Water Supply has only been together for two years, but the altcountry band is well on its way to wider recognition. Led by dual lead vocalists Adrianna Noone and Iggy Marino, PWS is already working on its second full-length album less than a year after its debut. This talented group continues to be one to watch.

White Woods plays in support at this 21-and-over show. Doors at 8 p.m., music at 9 p.m. $15-$20. DK

FILM

“Gremlins”

Dryden Theatre, eastman.org The internet jury is still out on whether “Gremlins” is a true Christmas movie, but it’s set during the holiday season and revolves around a rather consequential gift, so let’s just say it is. Now you have your excuse to watch this classic on the official capitalist kickoff to the holiday season. Just remember, if someone gives you a cuddly little Mogwai, do not get it wet and definitely do not feed it after midnight. And if you do, brace yourself for total mayhem.

7:30 p.m., $7 members and $11 nonmembers. JM SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 25

CROSSWORD PUZZLE ANSWERS PUZZLE ON PAGE 62. NO PEEKING!

MUSIC

Patti LaBelle

West Herr Auditorium Theatre, rbtl.org R&B-soul legend Patti LaBelle returns to Rochester in celebration of a musical career that first started more than 60 years ago. The Grammywinning singer’s heartfelt delivery and charismatic command of love ballads continues to make for compelling live performances. Doors open at 7 p.m., and the show starts at 8 p.m. Available tickets start at $76. DK

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A S H G I A N T C O D E D M A M A S O R S E A E T U D E A V A N T C H I E A S T M A N H O U S E P A R T Y D O G H E S S E C O T I D O L C O H O S T L A B E L S U R F T A G L I N E E S T A S O S O L E M I A T A O W N E D T H O U S O W I N A S E C C H A R L O T T E P I E R O N E T E D S O R A L T R I B A L S E U S S O R B J U L E P I N A R O W S T E T R E O W H O S A N G E L O A T H R E L Y H O T T E A L A B O R W I T T O T E M S D E E T E N E O N C E A P D F S M O U N T H O P E D I A M O N D T R Y L A R D C A G E S E S T A T E H A S O N D U A N E O P E R A S H U T D I N E S D E S S E R T O N A T S A O A R E N A S T R A P S L A W L I B E R T Y P O L E D A N C E R A I R E S P A L E O A L A L A R R Y T E E N S S T E A L D E N S C E N E roccitymag.com CITY 41

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Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real

MUSIC

Air Supply

Seneca Niagara Casino, senecaniagaracasino.com When it comes to Air Supply, you either LOVE them or ABSOLUTELY DESPISE them, right? But even the haters can’t deny that the soft-rock duo created songs that stick with you.

Listen to about 3 seconds of any Air Supply song and you’re guaranteed an earworm that lasts for days. And if you’re an ’80s kid, you’ll never forget their videos. And that hair. Anyway, if you want to be bellowing, “Making loooooooooove outta nothing at all” around the house until Christmas, go see them at Seneca Niagara Casino’s Event Center at 8 p.m. $35-$85.

DENISE YOUNG

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 26

42 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Water Street Music Hall, waterstreetmusichall.live If you think the name of this country rock band’s frontman looks familiar, you’re not wrong. Lukas Nelson is simultaneously the son of his legendary musical father Willie and his own artist. The younger Nelson’s success isn’t a product of nepotism: the music has serious honky-tonk vibes and the songs are meticulously crafted. Promise of the Real’s street cred is further bolstered by its run as Neil Young’s backing band from 2015 to 2019. Nelson and company strike the balance between a fresh sound and an homage to old-school country storytelling and southern rock aesthetics. The show is 18-and-over, except music lovers 16 and older are permitted with a guardian. Doors at 7 p.m., music at 8 p.m. $32. DK

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 27 TRIVIA

“Geeks Who Drink” Trivia Night

Lovin’ Cup, lovincup.com This free trivia contest is a Mondaynight staple at Lovin’ Cup. Billed as “an authentic pub quiz for beer-soaked nerds,” the competition is a prime opportunity to sip a craft brew and put previously superfluous knowledge to good use. Prizes, including bar cash, are up for grabs. 7 p.m. DK TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 28 WELLNESS

Sound Bath + Meditation

The Body Oracle, brandiekristle.com A sound bath experience can center both the body and mind. Facilitated

by Brandie Furniss of The Body Oracle in Bergen (about 25 minutes west on 490), this guided meditation incorporates crystal singing bowls, koshi chimes, and voice. The serene ambient backdrop is designed to help

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// you relax and heal your spirit. From a musical perspective, there are few sounds as satisfying as singing bowls in harmony with one another. If you need time for quiet, reflection, and rejuvenation, The Body Oracle may be just the place. 5 p.m. $25 suggested price. DK

spectacle-laden live shows, which combine the nostalgic grandeur of classical music with the bombast of rock to create an unrivaled symphonic metal event. Doors open at 6 p.m., and the show starts at 7 p.m. Tickets start at $64. DK MUSIC

Third Coast Percussion

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 29 CRAFTS

Roc Fiber Night

Flight Wine Bar, winebarflight.com I can think of few things cozier than coming in from the cold to enjoy a glass of wine and laid-back knitting sesh. That’s exactly what awaits you at Roc Fiber Night, hosted by Megs & Co. From 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., you can knit, weave, crochet, or crossstitch your way through your latest project with other local fiber crafters and enjoy a wide selection of wines to choose from, including 12 different curated wine flights. DK

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30 MUSIC

Trans-Siberian Orchestra: “The Ghosts of Christmas Eve”

Blue Cross Arena, bluecross arena.com When I was growing up, Mannheim Steamroller was the go-to Christmas band dominating the CD player.

Trans-Siberian Orchestra has since taken up the mantle as the preeminent holiday music experience. The band has long been celebrated for its

Eastman School of Music, esm.rochester.edu Chicago-based percussion quartet Third Coast Percussion returns to Rochester with their genre-crossing sonic landscapes, playing music from many of today’s most innovative and thoughtful composers. Their latest album, “Between Breaths” explores aspects of meditation in sound, incorporating unconventional timbres and tones” and you can lose yourself in these shifting musical sands tonight at 7:30 p.m. at Kilbourn Hall at the Eastman School of Music. Tickets are $32-45. MS

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Kocktails? Sounds cool CULTURE

BY LEAH STACY LEAH@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM

T

he story goes a little something like this. In midJune, Chuck Cerankosky had just gotten the keys to the former Solera & Cheshire space at 647 South Ave. He was working on demo alone one evening when a man in his 70s came to the door.

“He introduced himself as ‘Caleb’ and asked what we were doing with the place,” said Cerankosky. “Then, he told me he used to own a bar in this space, which his father had owned before and given him.”

Cerankosky had never heard of another bar in the space before Solera, but the timeline was well before he landed in Rochester. Caleb had a difficult childhood; his mother died while his father was fighting in Vietnam, and years later his father returned with a Vietnamese woman, ‘Miss Martine,’ who became Caleb’s stepmother. The bar was passed on to Caleb with the condition that it remain named ‘Martine.’

“Upon further research, I discovered martine was the seminal name for martini,” said Cerankosky.

“Seemed like a heavy coincidence and a great name for a bar, so here we are.”

Is Caleb real? Allegedly. Is the story factual? Perhaps anecdotal. But for a new bar in an old space, it’s fun to have some local lore — and a memorable name.

Martine is Chuck Cerankosky’s seventh hospitality project. It’s been 15 years since the Ohio native opened Good Luck, one of the area’s first farm-to-table restaurants, with partners Mike Calabrese and Dan Martello. Following that were the group’s other projects — Cure.,

44 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Martine, a new concept from Chuck Cerankosky, opens in the South Wedge.

From left, Cerankosky and bar manager Will Cornfield. PHOTO BY MIKE MARTINEZ

The renovated first floor of Martine, formerly Solera Wine Bar, at 647 South Avenue. PHOTOS BY MIKE MARTINEZ

Lucky’s, and Jackrabbit Club — and his side projects Bar Bantam and Radio Social (the latter of which he is now part-owner).

However, Cerankosky has never opened something on his own, and never a strictly cocktail bar, even though he’s spent time cheerleading the industry as founder and director of the annual Rochester Cocktail Revival, a weeklong spirits festival.

“I see this like being part of a band that has had a lot of success,” he said, “but as with some of the greatest bands, members go out and do side or solo projects.”

Though Cerankosky is the sole proprietor, his bar manager, Will Cornfield, helped with the concept and construction. If business goes well, Cornfield will eventually become a partner in Martine.

“I didn’t have plans to open another project, but when the opportunity came up, it was a good time in my life,” said Cerankosky. “I’d had some recent conversations with Will, so it lined up in a very serendipitous way.”

Cornfield, a Corning native who came to Rochester to attend Roberts Wesleyan College for marketing, is a successful local photographer who’s worked in hospitality since

2017, when Cerankosky hired him at Radio Social. He’s also done short stints at Good Luck and Cure as a bartender.

But after six years behind the pine, Cornfield was ready for his next step.

“I was trying to decide whether I would stay in the restaurant industry, which I love, or pursue photography or something else,” he said. “I knew I wanted to stay in Rochester — I love it here — but I wanted to have a bigger impact in the city.”

He started talking to Cerankosky, and the script wrote itself from there.

“What I know about Will is that he’s talented, he wants to be a bartender, and he has a magnetism about him,” said Cerankosky. “It’s quite unique to spend the entire summer working every day to build a bar. I don’t know that I could do CONTINUED ON PAGE 46

roccitymag.com CITY 45

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that with another person, especially at this speed.”

The duo spent June through October renovating, transforming the moody former wine bar into an airy, open space with green walls, custom wood countertops and benches (chestnut, as a nod to the building’s corner street) by Entrada Woodworking, and fiber materials.

They carved out a DJ booth above the stairs with a window that looks out onto both floors.

“We came to a blank canvas and didn’t have a master plan,” said Cerankosky, who has an industrial design degree from the Rochester Institute of Technology. “It was synergistic, it evolved to have an organic feel.”

Ideas came from Cerankosky’s wife, Allie, and other friends; along with the custom builds from Entrada, metal bar shelving from Weld Works, and furniture pieces from Rayton Wooden Traditions.

Cerankosky’s daughter, Sofie, did all the textiles, curtains and cushions. (She also works at the bar several days a week.) Wall art came from flea markets, and some fixtures were ordered from a Belgian electric supply website.

“It’s not so much an aesthetic as a feel,” said Cornfield. “We wanted a European-New York type vibe, but some place comfortable and approachable.”

Cerankosky agreed.

“In all of my spaces, it’s important to me that once you park your car and walk inside, you forget you’re in Rochester. Not because we want you to forget about Rochester,” he said, “It’s that once you’re here, you’re here.

This is its own environment.”

On a Wednesday in midOctober, Martine had officially been open about eight days, and two large cardboard boxes containing chest freezers had just been delivered, taking up most of the first floor. Cerankosky and Cornfield sat side-by-side, troubleshooting a payroll issue on a laptop. The two have almost identical ice blue eyes and a similar energy. As the interview progressed, Cerankosky stepped away to answer two calls from a helpful payroll employee.

46 CITY OCTOBER 2023

The second floor bar at Martine. PHOTOS BY MIKE MARTINEZ

Cornfield poured water into a shot glass nearby and took a swig before running to the kitchen to check on a cocktail he was batching.

Ah yes, the cocktails, er — kocktails.

“We thought about the beverage program from a design standpoint as well,” said Cerankosky. “If we’re opening a cocktail bar in Rochester in 2023, what does that look like? What are the trends? Will is 29, and I'm 42, both years older than those entering the cocktail market.”

They landed on two things: draft cocktails and feelings over flavor. At Martine, gone are the days of listening to a bewhiskered, suspender-wearing bartender wax poetic about a drink’s place in history.

“We wanted the flavors to be like tones, paint chips, feelings,” said Cerankosky. “What if a cocktail bar was like an ice cream parlor or a soda shop?”

They also wanted to offer different price points, which led to their “funsize” cocktails, half portions at just $7 (also great for those who want to imbibe less, another trend they’ve seen). The half portions are possible

because the cocktails are batched and then put into kegs; a process Cornfield originally pitched to Cerankosky at Radio Social because they often had to produce cocktails for large events.

“There’s places all over the world doing this, but Rochester hasn’t started to tap into it yet, so we wanted to focus on that,” said Cornfield. “Cocktails that are not only good, but custom, on draft. It’s not just a negroni or margarita.”

For those skeptical of the cocktails losing their ‘craft,’ it’s not quite that easy.

“We retain those elements of craft bartending that we value so highly,” said Cerankosky. “These are not just coming out of a tap. They’re batched full-strength, so the bartenders are shaking or stirring after and the cocktail is aerated.”

As for the spelling, they’ve gotten several social media comments and texts about listing ‘kocktails’ on the menu. But it's on purpose, and was inspired by Cerankosky’s travels to Croatia over the summer.

“In Eastern Europe, the word is ‘koktel,’” he said, “and there was

something about serving cocktails out of a keg that presented a fun opportunity to spell it with a ‘k.’”

There’s a limited food menu as well, with ingredients supplied by several of Cerankosky’s other concepts and prepared onsite by a solo chef in the small kitchen. Martine is open until 2 a.m. Thursday through Monday, spearheading a refreshing return to normal bar hours post-pandemic.

“You can get a cocktail here after midnight,” said Cornfield.”In fact, we want to make you cocktails until 2 a.m.” martine-rochester.com

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A bodega for the next generation CULTURE

BY LEAH STACY LEAH@ROCHESTER-CITYNEWS.COM

A

quick Google search for ‘Pearson’s Jamestown’ doesn’t yield any results, but the now-defunct market is the namesake of a new business that’s taken over the Glen Edith Coffee Roasters space in the Park Ave. neighborhood.

Pearson’s Market & Café is the ninth project for restaurateur Jon Swan (if you don’t count his three children, all under age five). He’s been casually scouting spaces to do a market concept for years, so when Glen Edith owner John Ebel approached him in 2022 about selling the space, it was the perfect timing.

Since then, the vision for Pearson’s has evolved a bit.

“As we’ve built it out, the space dictated what we could do,” said Swan. “We really wanted to come into the whole operation — this café and coffee world — and layer in culinary expertise.”

That expertise includes his chefmixologist sister, Paulina, and their mixologist business partner, Nick Ryan. This is the fourth collaboration for the trio, following Swan Dive on Alexander Street, Folk Catering, and Leonore’s on Park Avenue.

And like elements within all Swan Family of Restaurants concepts, the name ‘Pearson’s’ is inspired by fond family memories.

“When we were little, our grandparents Leonore and Vern used to take us to a little market store called Pearson’s,” said Paulina. “It was a butcher shop with cent candy and regular groceries, and we got to pick 48 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

The Swan family — and partner Nick Ryan — pivot a former third wave coffee shop.

Jon Swan, one of the owners of Pearson's Market & café.

PHOTO BY MIKE MARTINEZ

From left, Nick Ryan and Pauline Swan.

PHOTOS BY MIKE MARTINEZ

what we liked, up to 25 cents.”

That’s not where the nostalgia stops with this brand. Paulina recently worked with graphic designer Mike Turzanski to update the Swan Family of Restaurants logo — currently, there is an animal to represent all eight restaurants — to include new spots Leonore’s (hippo) and Pearson’s (cat).

“He sent me back one design, and it was perfect,” she said, “but I noticed that the cat had just half a tail and I was like, ‘did I tell him anything about our childhood cat? No.’ Somehow he just knew.”

Call it kismet, but Turzanski’s orange cat drawing almost completely resembled Paulina’s childhood cat

‘Schmeow,’ who got caught in a sliding door accident. In further coincidence, the Pearson’s building was previously Cats and Critters, a veterinarian office.

The Swans wanted to keep the coffee shop intact but bring in a bodega feel (hence the little cat logo), and closed for just three days to rebuild the coffee bar, continuing to renovate while open.

The space is divided into two floors: on the first, a large coffee bar and commercial kitchen, with seating for patrons. On the second, more seating, including a communal table where they plan to host collaborative pop-up dinners. There’s a private conference room available for rent, complete with a 12-seat table and wifienabled TV. The first floor will also have retail space.

“Specifically, we’ll be offering some of our own sauces and other things used at the restaurants,” said Paulina.

“You want Swan Dive bleu cheese or pizza dough? You got it.”

Eventually, the retail will expand to offer curated home goods and fresh-cut floral arrangements from Stoney Lonesome Floral, AKA Holly Heckler. Spearheading the kitchen will be chefs Devon Tramell and Sarah Farmer as well as baker

Michael Wall. It’ll be homebase for both Pearson’s and Folk Catering, and a boutique bakery for all eight spots. Sandwiches will be on freshbaked focaccia, and patrons can look for fun items like the ‘Found Meatball’ (a nod to Vern’s ‘Lost Meatball’).

John Cannon, who has managed the coffee program for Glen Edith — and before that, when it was Pour Coffee Parlor — since around 2014, stayed on to direct the coffee program.

The gleaming new equipment is impressive, namely a Cyclops model Ground Control brewer by Voga that can separate stages of brewing to bring out exact flavors and make cold brew in eight minutes instead of 12-24 hours.

“We are geeky about consistency, and coffee is scientific,” said Jon. “I

think there’s room for an evolution past the Third Wave.”

Their biggest focus is a more culinary approach to coffee and smoothies, and that’s where partner Nick Ryan’s expertise kicks in. Ryan, who is often mistaken for a Swan brother or cousin, shares a hive mind with Jon and Paulina that works seamlessly for their joint concepts.

“Things tend to be on the sweeter side with coffee — we’re getting outside the box,” he said. “We have a kabocha squash fizz at Leonore’s right now, and when we think about lattes, it’s like, ‘we’re not using pumpkin, we’re using kabocha,’ not to be cool, but because the technique is already there.”

Cara Tarpin, founder of Real Good Juice, is also working with Ryan to develop the cold press juice and smoothie program.

“It’s a learning process, from how to use the espresso machine to more about juicing,” said Ryan. “But it’s exciting to bring what I’ve done for the past decade into the non-alcoholic side of things.”

Pearson’s juice bar, cafe, and full retail concept will be open by midNovember, just in time for holiday shopping. swanfamilyofrestaurants.com roccitymag.com CITY 49

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An ode to FLX reds CULTURE

BY GINO FANELLI @GINOFANELLI

I

n 1985, Cameron Hosmer of Hosmer Estates Winery, known ubiquitously as “Tunker” to his friends and associates, made a thenunprecedented decision: to plant Cabernet Franc.

Lesser known than its child Cabernet Sauvignon—a French crossbreed between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc which made California’s Napa Valley worldrenowned—Cabernet Franc is a distinct grape, bursting with fresh strawberry and cherry notes with deeper, earthy minerality beneath its surface. It also is well-tuned to the cooler climate of the Finger Lakes. Its naturally high acidity and vigorous growth patterns make it a survivor.

That fact, however, is a matter of retrospect. Planting the first vines was still soundly trial and error.

“We didn’t know how to grow them, we didn’t know anything about them, and there was no one really to ask the peculiarities of that variety,” Hosmer said. “So, we grew them like we grew anything else, and consequently, the resulting first wines we made were, um, not all that great.”

That was nearly 40 years ago, and through those decades of refinement, Hosmer’s Cabernet Francs have become renowned. Its 2020 vintage Cabernet Franc, for example, received a score of 93 from world-renowned wine critic James Suckling, putting it squarely in the category of “outstanding.”

Praise from Suckling cannot be understated. His time at magazines like Wine Spectator, where he served as senior editor and European 50 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

The region proves (once again) it’s more than just Riesling.

THANK YOU ROCHESTER!

VOTED ‘BEST MECHANIC’

BEST OF ROCHESTER

Julia Hoyle, winemaker at Hosmer Vineyards. PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

order online: getcakedroc.com or call: (585) 319-4314

Bureau chief until 2010, cemented him as one of the preeminent figures in modern wine, and one of the most respected critics on the planet. In short, if he says it’s good, the wine world listens.

The Finger Lakes as a wine region has in the past decade lifted itself from the reputation of a purveyor of juicesweet native grape wines unworthy of any true prestige to an international haven for white wines. Most notably, Riesling, by far the most popular grape in the region and trumpeted by such lauded vintners as Hermann J. Wiemer and Dr. Konstantin Frank.

But comparably unheralded have been the region’s red wine offerings: Cabernet Franc most prominently, followed by Pinot Noir and Lemberger—or Blaufränkisch for the more sophisticated linguists. The reason for those wines going unsung is an unfortunate consequence of how the New World earned its prestige on the global wine stage, namely through the big, bold reds out of California.

It’s pressing day at Damiani Wine Cellars, the sweet, slightly funky perfume of freshly stomped Pinot Noir grapes wafting down the long, gravel driveway. Directly to the north, tumbling autumn leaves pepper an otherwise pristine view of Seneca Lake.

Winemaker Katey Larwood sits with co-founder Phil Davis at a picnic table at the edge of the vineyard.

Larwood is young, clean-cut, and bubbly, her earnest fervor for the

wines coming out of Damiani evident in seconds of talking about the topic.

Davis is her soft-spoken counterpart, his hands wrinkled in the way only decades of farmwork can provide, and a worn baseball cap covering his thin, white locks.

“There’s always that being compared to California, for whatever reason, that’s what’s happening,” said Katey Larwood, winemaker at Damiani. “But I think we should never be looking at the global wine world as being compared to X-country or Y-area, you should just be within your own area. What can you do? What are you capable of doing?”

Most Americans’ idea of red wine is likely influenced by Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir from Sonoma or Napa. Big, bold wines, absolutely bursting with in-your-face fruit notes and pushing the levels of alcohol into the 16-17% range.

Those are not wines, simply due to the cooler climate and shorter seasons, that can be reliably produced in the Finger Lakes.

Rather, the red wines coming out of the Finger Lakes hover around 12% typically. They often have a slightly thinner body, and a higher acid content. But done right, they are endlessly nuanced.

Tasted direct from its fermentation vessel, Damiani’s young Pinot Noir is highly acidic, with abrupt notes of raspberry and blackberry. In time as

this is your sign to eat more pie.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 52

roccitymag.com CITY 51

PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

it mellows, it takes on notes of candied fruit juxtaposed by a gravelly minerality.

It’s a balanced and beautiful wine that is meant to be savored.

Davis, who co-founded Damiani alongside Lou Damiani, has been growing Pinot Noir in the Finger Lakes since 1997.

“We’ve never decided to make these overripe, highly extracted red wines that I consider just alcohol bombs,” Davis said. “That was never a focus. We’re looking more for a little more elegance, a little more supple.”

The title of most decadent of red wines found at Damiani would likely go to the vineyard’s Saperavi. Of Georgian origin, Saperavi is a deep purple grape with a pinkish flesh, lending to a profound ruby red wine. Its flavors exude bursts of currants, plums and blackberries, contrasted by lingering notes of wood, spice, and smoke. It’s a wine of diverse character that just begs to be dissected.

Those unfamiliar with Finger Lakes red wines, or with the expectation that they are simply not worth the glass they’re poured in, could likely be excused.

Riesling, and the marketing behind it, has dominated the Finger Lakes, accounting for 828 of the 1,786 acres planted in the Finger Lakes, or 49%, according to the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance. Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Merlot combined account for 26%.

Bob Madill is a member of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation board of directors, head judge of the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, and co-founder of Sheldrake Point Winery in Ovid. He said the time for Finger Lakes reds is coming, and its biggest hurdle is promotion outside of its immediate market.

“We punch way above our weight in terms of reputation, and that is due primarily to success we’ve had in the market that we’ve had with dry Reisling,” Madill said. “Now we’re broadening our base of appeal.”

Madill said a steppingstone for appreciation of Finger Lakes reds has been wines like Cabernet Franc rosé, a style of wine which spends a little less time sitting on the skins to produce a lighter, pinkish beverage.

“In the Finger Lakes, we can make a very good rosé out of Cabernet Franc, and consumers understand it and buy it in spades,” Madill said.

On an early October day, winemaker 52 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Julia Hoyle and Tunker’s son, Vineyard Manager Tim Hosmer, walk through the rows of trellises at Hosmer Estates.

Flanking her on both sides are clusters of deep purple berries, each dangling naked, carefully trimmed of any shadebringing leaves, a trick that lends to growing good Cabernet Franc in the cool Finger Lakes climate.

It’s harvest season, and the dance to pick each grape at peak ripeness before the killing frost sets in has begun.

Hoyle believes on the international stage, lighter, fruitier reds like what is grown in the Finger Lakes are gearing up for a moment. She said there is, for example, a high demand for Hosmer’s Cabernet Franc from Nordic countries.

She said major trade publications are also now leaning towards light, fruity reds.

“London is a very important sort of tastemaker market, Decanter Magazine is out of London, there’s a lot of really important wine publications out of London,” Hoyle said. “And they’re excited about these fruitier, lower alcohol red wines.”

It’s a sentiment Madill agrees with. These are wines that are fit for the global stage and could be a major hit with consumers. But the biggest hurdle is breaking any misconceptions and efficiently marketing what these wines offer.

“We need to take on the task of taking on the success of Riesling and extending it, that’s really what we have to do,” Madill said. “By saying that, ‘If you like my Riesling, you’ll like my X.’” Back at Damiani, Davis and Larwood are working through the end of season harvest-and-pressing rush.

Months will pass before the bottles pf Pinot Noir will be ready for the first pour.

Davis offered a succinct word of advice for those skeptical of those wines.

“Come out and taste it for yourself,” he said.

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Second helping CULTURE

After a cancer scare, the opening of a food pantry.

BY TOM WILLARD

T

he freezer is empty at the newly opened food pantry on the Rochester School for the Deaf campus, but Zachary Ennis remains upbeat.

“It was full last week,” he said.

“There’s more coming.”

Ennis, founder and executive director of Rochester Deaf Kitchen, sees the emptiness as both a sign of the pantry’s early success and evidence of its ongoing need.

The 34-year-old, who is also Deaf, first envisioned the pantry in 2011 while still in college, inspired by his own youthful experience with food insecurity.

He wrote “Deaf Community Food Pantry” on a piece of paper and stuck it to the fridge for inspiration. But in December 2015, Ennis was diagnosed with Hodgkin’s lymphoma, and he spent the next several years focused mostly on survival. He underwent a stem cell transplant at New York’s Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center on March 6, 2018, a date he now considers his “immune system’s birthday.”

“I’m going to celebrate two birthdays every year for the rest of my life,” he said. He spent his recovery time at home raising his son, Brendan, with partner Dr. Donna Guardino, a therapist who is also Deaf. Now in third grade, Brendan was just eight months old when his dad was first diagnosed.

“Sometimes it felt as if we took care of each other,” said Ennis, who went into remission in September 2019. It would be another three years before he “finally felt healthy and myself again.” Now, he’s using his second chance to make the food pantry a reality.

The Rochester Deaf Kitchen opened August 30, and in its first six weeks, it had more than 1,300 unique visits. As a separate organization with its own 501c3 status, the pantry operates out of donated space behind the deaf school’s soccer field and welcomes visitors twice a week.

Ennis credits the early success to community organizations, volunteers and

Zachary Ennis, founder of Rochester Deaf Kitchen, stands outside the deaf food pantry he first envisioned 12 years ago. PHOTOS BY TOM WILLARD

donors. He gives special thanks to RSD superintendent Antony McLetchie and Foodlink’s Mitch Gruber.

Gruber, the organization’s senior VP and chief impact officer, said as soon as he met Ennis, it was clear that he was a change agent. “(He wants) to help serve the most vulnerable members of the Deaf community,” said Gruber. “The communities we serve are fluid and it’s really important that we have partners who help us reach underserved populations.”

Though some might assume food pantry items are donated, Ennis explained that he needs to purchase much of what is given out. Fortunately, the pantry benefits from the purchasing power of Foodlink. For example, a case of spaghetti that might cost $39.80 in a store can be purchased for just $12.88.

So far, Ennis has acquired 8,350

To find other area food pantries, soup kitchens, and meal programs, visit Foodlink's interactive map: foodlinkny.org/find-food/

pounds of food items and hygiene products for $2,233.38, and he can purchase items donated to Foodlink for just 19 cents per pound.

“This is my favorite,” he said. “For less than $50, we can have hygiene products of over $1,000 in retail value.”

Food also arrives through canned food drives, but “at times, we have had to throw out more than we could keep” due to expiration dates going back to 2017.

Golden Harvest Bakery & Cafe on Jefferson Road in Henrietta has been a major supporter, supplying more than

1,000 pounds of food. Ennis calls their donated donuts, bread, cheese and soup a “game changer.”

Joel Reed owns the bakery with his wife, Emily.

“We are more than glad to share our baked goods instead of letting them sit and expire,” he said.

Ennis believes it’s important for Deaf people to have their own food pantry, rather than just go to any other local pantry.

“What is different is the environment, the communication, the ease of access that gives Deaf people a taste of what hearing people experience on a daily basis,” he said. “They can ask questions, make suggestions and be themselves, as opposed to being ‘that deaf person’ everywhere else.” rochesterdeafkitchen.com roccitymag.com CITY 53

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Field to table CULTURE

BY NATASHA COTRUPI

I

n 2022, I left my job in a Neuroscience lab to follow my dream of becoming a chef. As a newly inducted line cook, I’ve been granted a glimpse into the minds of the chefs that make up Rochester’s vibrant restaurant industry. There are two fundamental ideals that I have adopted while working within the ‘back of house’ and extended to my culinary endeavors at home: cook with the seasons and use the entirety of your produce.

Thinking like a chef means appreciating — cherishing, even — those few weeks in June where everyone calls their garlic scapes dealer, the late summer sweetness of hand-picked tomatoes, and the bittersweet knowledge that the first morning you scrape ice off your windshield, you should have winter squash for dinner.

Thinking like a chef also means repurposing the ‘scraps’ that would often be thrown away in a home kitchen: scallion butts, the pulp from a juiced pineapple, seeds from a pumpkin — these all play a role in the orchestra that is back of house. Chlovia Loomis, manager at Growing Family Farms, is a local advocate for seasonality and no-waste creativity, her seasonal crops last throughout November (spoiler: they have the cutest squash variety ever, the honeynut).

Loomis has been managing Growing Family Farms, a small operation in Spencerport, for the last three years, and working on the grounds for the last 11 years. GFF utilizes regenerative

54 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

A farmer and a chef offer tips for no-waste, creative cooking with the seasons.

Chlovia Loomis, manager at Growing Family Farms, harvests honeynut squash. PHOTOS BY NATASHA COTRUPI

farming, minimal transportation efforts, and does not introduce synthetic pesticides and fertilizers to their crops. On a certified organic farm, Chlovia explained there is ‘nowhere to hide.’ Every seed is documented from sow, tray location, and harvest — all the way to the date and location sold. When you buy from a certified organic farm, you are supporting thorough, intentional and environmentally conscious farming practices.

While the farm slows down for the ‘shoulder season’ (between peak and off-season), crops seeded in September will be ready for harvest and enjoyment in November. Hearty ‘storage crops’ such as carrots, cabbage, winter squash, garlic, onions and leeks are available in November, as well as the more glamorous (borderline dramatic) leafy greens that sprawl out in their indoor greenhouse beds throughout the winter. Loomis’s excitement surrounding her honeynut squash this November was contagious; a hybrid of butternut and buttercup squash, honeynut has a sweet, nutty flavor that pairs well with said ‘storage crops,’ specifically garlic, leeks, and hearty fall herbs.

The cool, crisp air of shoulder season conjures dreams of warm, comforting flavors, and Anto Yockel, a chef at Vern’s on Park Avenue, gave additional guidance for elevating the honeynut into a restaurant-worthy dish. He shared a technique to extract all the squash flavor possible into a sauce: roast, soak in herby milk, and purée to smooth perfection. Then, toss the

1 leek, chopped 8 sprigs thyme 5 leaves sage 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 1 garlic clove, minced ¾ cup whole milk Salt & pepper, to taste Preheat the oven to 350F and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut squash in half, then peel, and deseed. (Clean and roast seeds with salt and olive oil and/or save the peels for a stock, if desired.)

Drizzle squash with olive oil, thyme, nutmeg, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Roast squash for 25 minutes, until fork tender.

Chop leek into ½ inch discs.

While squash roasts, heat olive oil and minced garlic in a small pan.

When oil is glimmering, add the leeks and saute until softened. Add sage leaves to the pan, removing from heat once sizzled and crisp.

Remove the leeks and sage, but save the infused oil and garlic.

sauce with pasta, fold into a risotto, or use as a base for pizza, it’s as versatile as it is delicious. Yockel shares Loomis’s commitment to nowaste cooking, so he also suggested simmering the peeled honeynut skins in a vegetable broth, roasting and seasoning the seeds, and even peeling and pickling the lightercolored squash ribbons just below the peel. Here is Yockel’s full recipe.

HONEYNUT SQUASH CREAM SAUCE

Makes 2 cups, or 6-8 servings of sauced pasta. Keeps 7 days if refrigerated. Freezer safe in an airtight container.

Ingredients: 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed 1 baby honeynut squash (or .5 lb any squash variety)

Add milk, thyme, butter, and the infused oil from the pan to a saucepan. Add the roasted squash and cook over medium-low heat, bringing to a simmer. Let simmer for 10 minutes, stirring gently.

Blend the squash and milk mixture until smooth. Season with salt to taste. Pour over pasta and thin with a small ladle of pasta water until glossy. Top with parmesan, crispy pumpkin seeds, sizzled sage, sauteed leeks, and black pepper.

Enjoy warm.

roccitymag.com CITY 55

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Swingers welcome CULTURE

It was my first time, and I was a little nervous.

BY TIMOTHY LUDWIG

W

alking through the glass double doors of iSmash Rochester in Henrietta, I wasn’t sure what to expect. You hear about these things and wonder at the people who participate, yet curiosity remains.

The hosts had legal documentation to sign and spiels to run through, mere formalities to which I wistfully acquiesced.

I donned an assembly-line chic jumpsuit, helmet with face shield, and gloves before being led to a solitary room among many in the sprawling warehouse. There were cameras on the walls and strewn remnants left behind by the ghosts of swingers past.

“Well,” I thought. “Let’s get weird.”

And thus began my first smash room experience.

A box sat before me, filled with fragile objects. Considering what first to break, I landed on an old coffee maker. I picked up a baseball bat and addressed the coffee maker standing innocently on a wooden platform, blissfully unaware of its forthcoming demise.

I swung, decimating something that had faithfully served hot bean water for someone’s extra lift in the morning. After 10 minutes — it was admittedly a bit of a blur — on the field of battle against plates, bowls, glassware, and other outcast kitchenware, I emerged victorious and feeling a little tingly.

56 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN WILLIAMSON

“Ok, I get it,” I said aloud to myself.

Rage rooms, smash rooms, and similar establishments have been around since the late 2000s — not here in the US, but we eventually adopted them at our usual sluggish pace of trend grabbing. This is weird because I might’ve thought they’d be a very American thing. I mean, destructive atmospheres in a controlled environment, versus, say, the Labatt-fueled chaos of jumping shirtless through tables at a Bills game?

Rage rooms have given folks a place to unleash some pent-up energy into socially acceptable destruction.

This particular smash room was themed after Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, lending a particularly pleasing imaginative setting in which to rearrange one’s mental mise en place. Since kitchens are places where mistakes are firmly scolded (to put it kindly) and order is everything, taking a baseball bat to dishes and throwing wine glasses against walls was about as justifying as watching Gordon Ramsay string together obscenities.

So, whatever the driver of your rage might be, 10 minutes in a smash room is better than nothing, cheaper than therapy, and deliciously cathartic. The Ramsaythemed pop-up may be finished, but iSmash Rochester experiences await seven days a week at the Frontier Commons strip mall on Jefferson Road. Get out there and start swinging.

Disclaimer: This is not an adequate replacement for therapy, but a wonderful supplement.

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The Dish

FOOD AND BEV NEWS, GOSSIP, AND GATHERINGS CURATED BY REBECCA RAFFERTY AND LEAH STACY

BITE-SIZED NEWS

model and popular rice or salad combo platter menu is gone, replaced by reservations recommended, a glitzy new dining room, and a more elevated (read: expensive) menu.

Spicy joojeh platter, we’ll always miss ya. chortkegrill.com

Mexican-Costa Rican restaurant Pura Vida Ville opened at 2115 Buffalo Road at Westmar Plaza in Gates.

Owner Tatiana Warren draws from her heritage for the weekly birria or mahi mahi tacos, birria ramen, chicken tortilla soup, and more. instagram.com/puravidavilleroc Twist Jamaican Grill opened at 2523 E. Henrietta Rd., offering jerk chicken sandwiches, curry chicken and goat, shrimp pasta or oxtail bowls that come with veggies and salad. twistjamaicangrill.com Cristo’s Wood Fired Pizza & Pasta, at 1308 Buffalo Rd. in Gates, has a menu stacked with Italian standards as well as standouts like char-grilled, prosciutto-wrapped mozzarella served with basil oil over greens, and ‘Pasta Rustica,’ which sounds like a noodle-inclusive, sauce-and-sausage version of ratatouille. cristosrestaurant.com

WHET YOUR PALATE

Brewery Rising Storm at The Mill opened in October in the historic Daisy Flour Mill’s former spot at 1880 Blossom Rd. This is Rising Storm’s second location; the first is in Livonia. In addition to beers on tap, wine, and hard cider, visitors can sample ‘approachable’ fare that includes the Mill Plate (you already know), salads, chips & dip, burgers, and more. risingstormbrewing.com After a brief remodel, Chortke has reopened at Village Gate Square, 352 N. Goodman St. The fast-casual

After closing in August, the former Grinnell’s on Monroe Ave. is undergoing extensive renovations and will re-open under Chef Richard Reddington as Redd Wood (a nod to his longtime Napa Valley location) in spring 2024. There are also whispers of a Seneca Lake-based project for the group.

flavor of the first-ever Genesee Specialty beer chosen by more than 10,000 fans is (drumroll, please) Citrus Pils. It’ll be available in 12-packs at stores across the state beginning November 1. geneseebeer.com

FOR THE LOCAVORES

FOOD FÊTES

The space that was formerly Pour Coffee Parlor and then Glen Edith at 23 Somerton St. in the Park Ave neighborhood has reopened as Pearson’s Market & Café — read our full story on page 48. ilovepearsons.com

Take a foodie field trip to Cornell Museum of Glass for the annual Glass Holiday Feast, a table of handblown dishes curated fresh each year by the Hot Glass Team (and yes, that’s an official title). The exhibit runs November 15 - January 7, 2024. whatson.cmog.org/seasonal/glassholiday-feast

Voting has closed, and the winning

roccitymag.com CITY 57

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Grass-fed groceries CULTURE

BY JESSICA L. PAVIA

A

s an overcast haze settles above a 200-acre farm in the hills of Wyoming County, it’s surprisingly quiet, even among so many cows. They’re too busy grazing, maybe. Tucking their soft noses into the ground, their polled heads collecting burs from surrounding wildflowers. A light rain begins to whisper down.

Walking a nearby path in kneehigh muck boots are Jill and Steve Gould, the husband and wife duo behind Butter Meat Co., a directto-consumer shop that specializes in dual-purpose beef and shrinking the distance between farmer and consumer. Both grew up on farms, and their care for the work is evident.

“I used to joke that my parents fought about pallets,” Jill said. “I grew up around cucumbers and green beans, and I didn’t realize until I was older how truly unique that is today.”

The impetus for Butter Meat Co. came when the Goulds took over Steve’s family’s organic dairy farm, HaR-Go Farms in Pavilion, NY. Suddenly, they had cows that weren’t considered valuable after their third or fourth calf, when they stop converting feed efficiently into milk.

“The economics of it changes,” Jill said. “If you have space in your barn, you keep them. In other cases, their time as a dairy cow is essentially up.”

Beef is homogenized in the United States. While a brewery might have up to six hops, a café up to five choices of milk, and cheese in Europe is arguably endless, the States don’t have that 58 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Perry’s Butter Meat Co. redefines good beef.

BUILDING BULK NETWORKS: CORNELL’S MEATSUITE

The retail section at Butter Meat Co. PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

Inset, Jill and Steve Gould.

PHOTO BY JACOB WALSH

same culture around meat.

That was the case for the Goulds until a chef friend visited their farm. The aged meat, in his eyes, was brilliant. Most of the beef consumed by carnivores is young, mild, and filed under “prime” or “select” grades. Based on the current standards, dairy meat is only ever graded as “choice,” despite being more sustainable with richly golden fat and a nutrientdense bite. So, he cooked for them.

“That meal triggered everything for us,” Jill said.

In 2019, Steve had their first cows slaughtered, and in February, 2020, Jill opened Butter Meat Co. The store’s pink door is stark on the main street of what one internet reviewer referred to as “curiously hip Perry.” Light streams in through display windows painted to reflect each new season—blue and yellow bursts of flowers for spring, droolinducing ice cream cones for summer—bouncing off speciality goods, local produce, dairy, and a cooler full of beef.

“There’s no other state like (New York),” Jill said. “We are incredible farmers. Shopping local is a way of showing that pride, and our farms need a foothold to get started.”

Since opening, Butter Meat Co. has become a beacon of New York State abundance at its current location, and will move to a larger space later this year. Supporting Perry has become intrinsic to the shop. One of the brands they carry and use in their coffee drinks is milk from Warsaw farm Burley Berries and Blooms.

“Having Jill’s store means the food system touches closer to home.” Megan Burley, matriarch of the family farm, said. “You can drive by this farm and then get the product right in town.”

Back in the grazing fields, the sky is darkening and Steve is called inside for a conference call about the Perry Public Library. Stella, the couple’s Great Pyrenees, follows Jill on one last round. She’s scared of the cows, even though they’re docile and kind. Over to the left, looking out towards the fields, calves moo a send-off.

Tomorrow, the work will start again.

“I wish farming was something we were more proud of in New York,” Jill said. “We’re kind of badass when it comes to food.” buttermeatco.com

For those without an inside track, finding local meat producers often looks like aimlessly wandering farmers markets, rushing to take a photo while speeding past signs on backroads, or stumbling upon a roadside stand only to find the IGLOO cooler empty.

But since 2014, MeatSuite— an online database of local farmers maintained and produced with a grant from Cornell University—has been closing that information gap.

Matt LaRoe started MeatSuite while working with Cornell Cooperative Extension to survey consumers about buying in bulk, or purchasing an eighth, quarter, or full animal rather than individual cuts. Now, he’s the Director of the Cornell Agricultural Marketing Research Program.

MeatSuite helps consumers buy directly from the farm, which benefits both parties.

“Not only are you buying directly from the farm, but the price per pound is lower than grocery store prices,” LaRoe said.

“Since you’re problem-solving for them.”

The best part? Buying directly from the producer means farms can cut the animal in a way that works for your family, without letting any parts go to waste.

Which, as LaRoe says, makes meal-planning that much easier.

“People who have never bought in bulk before might be intimidated, but our farms are ready to serve and eager to help people navigate this.” meatsuite.com - JESSICA L. PAVIA

roccitymag.com CITY 59

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Mystery dinner CULTURE

BY REBECCA RAFFERTY @RSRAFFERTY

R

ochester gets a lot of press — and flack — for its ‘signature’ cuisine, the Garbage Plate. And while the dish became synonymous with food culture in Rochester, the city’s cuisine is much more rich and diverse, built by an ever-expanding community of global cultures.

Chris Lindstrom aims to expand the impression people have of Rochester’s food scene. He’s the co-founder of NOMINATE, which presents curated meal pickup nights in Rochester and Buffalo (where Lindstrom is originally from).

NOMINATE partners with small, usually minority- and immigrantowned restaurants to give them a boost on slower weeknights while also helping diners expand their palates and, hopefully, become returning customers to the small businesses featured.

NOMINATE emerged during the pandemic, with the aim of assuaging hardships posed to restaurants — especially small, family-owned joints. It began by offering an alternative to ordering takeout through the big courier companies, which notoriously take a huge cut from restaurants, gouge customers with multiple fees, and generally take advantage of drivers.

“We were trying to find a way to do something where everybody won,” Lindstrom said. “The restaurant got to make money on an order, and anybody who was driving got to make money.”

NOMINATE has since pivoted from delivery to strictly pickup at

60 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

Grab a meal through NOMINATE’s curated food pickup events and gain a new favorite eatery.

“We were trying to find a way to do something where everybody won.”

Chris Lindstrom and Brandon Vulaj, two co-founders of NOMINATE. PHOTO BY NARADA J. RILEY

three partner locations: Three Heads Brewing and Black Button Distillery in Rochester, and Nowhere Lounge in Buffalo.

On an average weeknight, maybe 15 or so people come to Seasons’ Noodle on Chestnut Street downtown, but the restaurant had 50 meals ordered through one of NOMINATE’s pickup events in August. Some of those customers have since visited Seasons’ Noodle.

“I like to work with (Chris), because he actually gave us a chance to have people who would not have been able to come into our store to try our food,” said Yunzhi Yan, owner of Seasons’, which specializes in hand-pulled noodles.

Diners can go to nominatemeals. com and select the date they want to pick up a meal. It’s a flat fee of $40 for a meal that feeds two people — ideal for date night in, dinner with a bestie, or a meal and leftovers for one — then, all they have to do is show up at that night’s pick-up location.

But the experience is also an adventurous experiment in letting go.

“The kicker is, customers have no idea what they’re getting until they pick up their food,” Lindstrom said.

“We don’t want people not buying just because they aren’t familiar with the cuisine.”

That cuisine could be West African, Korean, Caribbean, or Soul Food. It could be a rice-based, spiceheavy vegan dish or a bounty of beef, broth, and noodles.

“We’re going to bring them the things the restaurant wants to highlight,” Lindstrom said.

The endeavor had its first event in January 2021 and spotlighted local small businesses Marty’s Meats, Zemeta (Ethiopian), Peppa Pot (Jamaican), El Latino (Dominican), and Sodam (Korean) in the first few months. Since then, NOMINATE has worked with dozens of

A platter from Neno’s at a recent NOMINATE pickup. PHOTO BY NARADA RILEY

restaurants, all of which are listed on their website.

“We offer the restaurants somewhere between 90 and 95 percent of retail for their food,” Lindstrom said. “We’re buying a bulk order on a quiet day.” Even the smallest events tend to net about $450 for the eateries.

Aside from his work for NOMINATE, Lindstrom, 40, works in engineering and automation and is the host of the local Food About Town podcast.

The other NOMINATE cofounders — Brandon Vulaj, Alex Vulaj, Raph Mabasa, and Nate Wagar — mostly help on the IT front. Lindstrom is generally the face of the operation. “My expertise is relationships with the small, minority-owned restaurants in Rochester,” he said.

NOMINATE’s pickup spots typically work with Lindstrom to offer a beverage pairing for the meal for customers to either take away or enjoy on the spot.

“If it’s at Three Heads, we pick a beer that’s going to best pair with the food that night,” Lindstrom said.

“We want our partners to be excited

to have us there as well. So if every step in the process can be a win for everybody, that’s the mission.”

Because patrons don’t know what the meal is — or even what restaurant is serving it — before they pick it up, it’s tough for NOMINATE to alter meals for dietary restrictions and preferences.

A message can be sent to communicate allergies and dietary restrictions, and Lindstrom then lets the patron know if they’ll be able to accommodate or not.

At pickup, Lindstrom hands customers a sheet with info about the cuisine and where to visit the business in the future. “We always tell people to go visit in person after, being there in person matters more than people think,” he said. “The whole point is strengthening the sense of community through food.”

Eventually, Lindstrom would like to expand NOMINATE to offer catering, similarly curating meals for events held by companies and organizations that want to support small local restaurants.

“There should be a way for people to spend their money where their values are.” roccitymag.com CITY 61

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Answers to this puzzle can be found on page 41

ROC Before & After PUZZLE

1

2

3

4

19

20

BY S.J. AUSTIN & J. REYNOLDS

23

24

ACROSS

27

9. Wrote some Javascript, say 14. Papas’ counterparts 19. Greek letter X 20. By land ___

40

39

45

58

22. ___ garde

61

62

29. 1946 Nobel laureate for literature 30. Bed for a cadet 31. “Mony Mony” singer 32. Motown or Elektra 34. Ride, in a way or the thing being ridden 36. “Think Different” or “Got Milk?”

38. Midlife crisis convertible 40. Como ___ 43. “___ Mio”

67

35

42

43

76

119

49

65 71 78 87

111

79

120

51

52

81

82

83

117

118

72

80

88

89 93

96

97

100

112

50

66

92

106

18

56

77

105

17

37

48

70

99

16

44

64

95 98

15

60

86

94

110

36

55

91

104

14

31

47

63

85

103

13

59

75

90

102

41

69

74

12

22

34

68

84

11

30

54

23. Yorkipoo, e.g.

10

26

46

53

73

9

25

33

57

27. Behar, to Goldberg

8

29

21. Practice piece for a Julliard student

24. Superspreader event at Kodak founder’s mansion?

7

21

32 38

6

28

1. Wood used in most baseball bats 4. Willie Mays or Eli Manning

5

101

107 113

108 114

115

121

109 116 123

122

45. Dominated, as in a first person shooter

124

125

126

127

46. Elizabethan pronoun

128

129

130

131

47. They that ___ in tears shall reap in joy (Psalm) 48. Kid’s response to “Get off the iPad right now!”

villagers

94. What you will

to polling places in 2020

69. Heavenly being

95. Test

116. Bra parts

53. Danson and Nugent

71. Promise made upon taking office

96. Ingredient in old fashioned biscuits

54. Trendy furniture store for a literary arachnid?

73. Depend (on)

97. Homes for hamsters

119. Provocative job title for a proud American patriot?

75. Recently steeped beverage

98. Wears

58. Pertaining to the mouth

78. British political party, to Americans

100. Eddy inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 1994

59. Decision time on “Survivor,” familiarly

81. “Well-bred insolence,” according to Aristotle

101. Performance sometimes viewed through glasses

60. Pseudonym for Geisel

84. ___ year (annually)

102. Course for a sweet tooth?

61. Vintage car inits.

86. Carved emblems

106. Turn (off)

62. Minty cocktail

88. Off-putting chemical?

108. Feeds

64. Lined up

89. Suffix with ethyl

110. Go ___ great length

66. “Let it stand,” editorially

90. Peak named for a 45-carat jewel?

111. First word of many city names

67. Cindy Lou and her fellow

93. JPEG alternatives

113. One of many buildings converted

57. Moon, e.g., poetically

62 CITY NOVEMBER 2023

123. Statute 124. Teammate of Robert and Danny 125. Buenos ___ 126. Early: Prefix 127. Home of Sen. Doug Jones 128. One of 16 in “The Crucible” 129. Adolescents 130. Signal to Rickey Henderson 131. Place for bear cubs or thieves

DOWN

empty can, or printed on it

1. “Highway to Hell” band

55. Craft for squares?

2. Beat it!

56. West Bank inits.

3. Dorky hairdo for a Scotsman?

58. Spanish eye

4. Turns

63. Dressmakers’ guides

5. Seeing red

65. Went to court?

6. Fool

68. Banzai, Shenzi, or Ed from “The Lion King”

7. Neighbor of Belg.

8. Domesticated 9. Decennial headcount 10. Noncommittal option on a multiple choice question

70. Wanting 72. The “A” of MoMA 73. Colosseum locale 74. Son of Seth

11. Batman and Robin, e.g.

76. Native Nebraskan

12. Cabinet dept. formerly led by DeVos

77. From ___ bottom

13. Spanish colonizer of the Americas 14. Zoo handout 15. Be of use 16. Tuesday in Paris 17. Bruckner or Chekhov 18. Fashion 25. Crime measured in degrees 26. And others, bibliographically 28. Pulitzer finalist born in Lockport 33. Deadly 35. Lasso’s former sport (and his new one)

79. Decorate 80. On ___ knee 82. Deduce 83. Actress Thompson of “Dear White People” 85. ___ drop of a hat 87. Acknowledged a military officer 91. Publisher William Randolph __ 92. Goat sound 93. Assignment in English class 97. Asset for a pitcher 99. Patronize, as a hotel 100. Coercion 102. Toys you can dress

37. They run in the family

103. 1940s computer

38. Convenient addition to a rowboat

104. Printer company mispronounced by Michael Scott

39. “If ___ Your Woman” (1971 soul hit)

105. Co-star of Pesci and Culkin

41. Formation composed of clay minerals and quartz grain 42. Only non-U.S. M.L.B. team 44. Pinky ___ 47. Children’s author Robert Lawrence ___ 49. “Give it ___!”

50. Iceberg below the Mason-Dixon Line?

51. Massachusetts motto opener 52. “___ la vie” 54. What might be done to an

107. Guitar virtuoso Eddie Van ___ 109. “___ little silhouetto of a man” 112. Mayberry tyke 114. Dozes 115. Subj. of many med school flashcards 117. Ashen 118. Word with dive or song 120. Canadian whiskey 121. Item sought in a mine, or in Minecraft 122. The Cavs, on a scoreboard roccitymag.com CITY 63

64 CITY NOVEMBER 2023