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J U LY - S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 2
BAHAMASAIR INFLIGHT MAGAZINE
The
Island Living ISSUE
Gambier 25° North 77° West Amanda Lindroth Design
Island Life Sweet Aye!
Producing Passion In Exuma South Caicos Regattas
Amanda Lindroth Hope Hill Home Photographer Tria Giovan
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MESSAGE FROM
DEPUTY PRIME MINISTER OF THE BAHAMAS AND MINISTER OF TOURISM, INVESTMENTS & AVIATION THE HONOURABLE I. CHESTER COOPER, M.P. Photo Courtesy of Bahamas Information Services (BIS)
The ambience of our islands has given rise to a distinctive lifestyle known as “island living”.
—Honourable I. Chester Cooper, M.P. Welcome to paradise. Welcome to The Islands of The Bahamas. The choices of travel destinations are endless. We are truly delighted that you selected to visit us in The Islands of The Bahamas. With so many options of air connection to our destination, we are equally delighted that you chose to fly on our country’s national flag carrier, which connects our islands to the outside world and inter-connects the many island destinations within our extensive archipelago. The Bahamas is a chain of 700 islands located just 50 miles southeast of Florida. Comprised of 16 unique island destinations, The Bahamas is home to a population of upwards to 390,000—a people whose legendary hospitality has earned The Bahamas renowned as one of the world’s friendliest vacation destinations. The national flag carrier takes pleasure in getting you to and from The Bahamas, and is pleased to offer you Up and Away, our inflight magazine, to introduce you to the wide range of experiences to be savoured on a visit to our destination. For advice on shopping, eco-adventures, historical sights, beaches, entertainment, culture and much more, Up and Away is your trusted guide to the full array of what to see, do and experience in The Bahamas. The ambience of our islands—the year-round sunshine, leisurely pace, cultural expressions and deep appreciation of the beauty of the environment and simple pleasures of life—has given rise to a distinctive lifestyle known as “island living”. This issue of Up and Away introduces you to locales, authentic experiences, historic places and features that represent the signature island living lifestyle of diverse The Honourable I. Chester Cooper, Deputy Prime Minister islands such as Acklins, Exuma, Grand Bahama, Inagua, Long Island and New of The Bahamas and Minister of Tourism, Investments & Aviation Providence. A slow tour through these islands will reveal the true appeal of the island living lifestyle that is peculiar to The Islands of The Bahamas. Whether you’ve come for an exciting, active getaway or a retreat to simply relax and rejuvenate, you can vacation in The Bahamas with peace of mind. All the standard international protocols are enforced for your safety and well-being. In The Islands of The Bahamas, you are genuinely welcome. Enjoy your stay with us, and come back soon to see more of our beautiful country.
The Honourable I. Chester Cooper, Deputy Prime Minister of The Bahamas and Minister of Tourism, Investments & Aviation
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MESSAGE FROM
BAHAMASAIR CHAIRMAN Photo Courtesy of Mario Nixon Photography
Our islands are dotted with quiet fishing and farming settlements and small gateway hotels that cater to those of you who are looking for peace, quiet and tranquillity.
—Chairman Anthony Kikivarakis Sr. Sit back, relax and enjoy! It is our pleasure to have you flying with us. With great enthusiasm, I am honoured to welcome you to The Islands of The Bahamas. To both our tourists and our residents alike, I thank you for choosing our national flag carrier, Bahamasair, for your trip. This quarter’s Up and Away magazine focuses on the island living lifestyle in The Bahamas which I truly hope you will have the opportunity to experience and enjoy. You may not know this, but The Bahamas has about 700 islands and 2,400 cays. Only 30 islands are inhabited. Even though so many are uninhabited, many are available for short visits and sightseeing. New Providence, affectionately known as “Nassau” (the capital city), is The Bahamas’ largest populated island, and serves as the country’s central commercial hub. This is the place you may want to settle and base your vacation from if you enjoy cities with bustling activities. Grand Bahama may be slightly less known than New Providence but with its cosmopolitan orientation, it does encourage a lot of activities. It is very close to Miami, Florida and tourists like to visit here for the more peaceful resort scene and exotic beaches. Bahamians fondly refer to our additional outer islands as Family Islands. Popular tourist hotspots to visit are Abaco, Eleuthera, Exuma, and Long Chairman Anthony Kikivarakis Sr. Island. We like to think of our Family Islands as beautiful getaways where you can truly experience down-home Bahamian culture. Our islands are dotted with quiet fishing and farming settlements and small gateway hotels that cater to those of you who are looking for peace, quiet and tranquillity. I highly recommend, if you are currently scheduled to only visit Nassau or Grand Bahama, to have Bahamasair help you arrange at least a day trip to one or two of our Family Islands to have an unforgettable taste of the food, our pristine beaches, and our welcoming, laid-back island life for which we are well known. There are also many charter boats that specialize in one-day or overnight trips that can take your vacation to new and unexpected joys! I wish to extend a warm welcome home to our residents and an equally warm welcome to our tourists! Keep in touch with us on our website and our social media pages for the latest news, updates and tips for this and upcoming trips! All the very best, Anthony Kikivarakis Sr., Chairman of Bahamasair
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INTERNATIONAL
Service begins September 1, 2022
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MESSAGE FROM THE PUBLISHER Photo by Torrell Glinton
“
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I’m an island boy at heart and I can tell you that there’s
Capt. L. Roscoe Dames
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nothing sweeter than living on a tropical island.
—Capt. L. Roscoe Dames II, JP, Publisher
A popular Bahamian song says: “No matter where I roam … li’l Nassau is my happy home.” That phrase encapsulates my love for not only Bahamian life, but island life, in general. I have travelled the world over, but I have a soft spot for the “island life”. I’m an island boy at heart and I can tell you that there’s nothing sweeter than living on a tropical island. In this issue of Up and Away magazine, our team will share the essence of island living in some of the most beautiful islands in the world: The Bahamas and the Turks & Caicos Islands. Bahamasair is your vehicle to experience it all and this magazine is your guide. In The Bahamas, there are 16 principal islands out of 700. Each island has a unique way of living. We’ll give you an inside look at life on a few of them: Acklins, Exuma, Grand Bahama, Inagua, Long Island and New Providence. You’ll learn about things like: historic Gambier, camping on Rose Island and boutique farming in Exuma. Then, we’ll take you off the beaten path in Grand Bahama’s East End and introduce you to Bahamian royalty ‘The Queen Conch’. We’ll share island-chic interior design and style, as well as a realtor’s perspective on owning a piece of paradise. From there, we’ll look at Turks & Caicos Island lifestyle with their annual regattas and go off the beaten path at ‘The French Corner’ and more. On behalf of the team at Ivory Global Management Ltd., our publisher, writers, photographers, creatives, stakeholders and advertising partners, it is our pleasure to have this opportunity to present you with another issue of Up and Away magazine through an intriguing showcase of culture from Bahamasair’s travel destinations. We invite you to sit back and relax—this issue will make you see the beauty, hear the calm, taste the flavours and feel the vibes of what island living is all about. Do enjoy this issue. Take it as a souvenir to share with your family and friends. Safe travels!
CONTENTS JULY - SEPTEMBER 2022
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ON THE COVER
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Spanish Wells Cottages Cover Artwork Shot In Spanish Wells Photographer L. Roscoe Dames II
14 Gambier 25° North and 77° West 18 Roughing It In Paradise - Camping On Picturesque Rose Island 22 Amanda Lindroth Design 28 Off the Beaten Path - The ‘French Corner’ of Turks and Caicos
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30 Acklins - The Untouched Gem of The Bahamas 36 Regattas: A Way of Life In the Islands 39 Wellness with ‘Bahayogi’ - ‘The Spirit of Island Living’ 42 Long Island - ‘Island Life Sweet Aye’
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44 Island Living – ‘A Realtor’s Perspective’ with Nick Damianos 47 Off The Beaten Path – East End, Grand Bahama 49 Bahamian Royalty: The Queen Conch 51 South Caicos Regattas 54 An Outback Paradise in the Deep South 57 Performing Artist - Bodine Victoria Johnson 62 Producing Passion in Exuma 65 Visual Artist - Averia Wright 67 Contributors
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JULY - SEPTEMBER 2022 PUBLISHED BY IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD. FOR ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL’S CONTACT PHONE: 242.427.9871 EMAIL: igmmagazinepublishing@gmail.com WEBSITE: ivoryglobalmanagement.com
PUBLISHER Capt. L. Roscoe Dames ADMINISTRATOR Caprice Spencer-Dames COPY EDITOR Nasia R. Colebrooke ART DIRECTOR Lourdes Guerra BAHAMAS | USA SALES Ivory Global Management Ltd TURKS AND CAICOS SALES David Newlands BAHAMASAIR Tracy Cooper
inFlight Magazine is published quarterly by IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD., for BAHAMASAIR, the National Flag Carrier of The Bahamas. All rights are reserved and reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without the express written consent of IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD. All opinions expressed in UP and AWAY are solely those of the contributors. Every reasonable care has been taken neither UP and AWAY or its agents accept liability for loss or damage to photographs and material submitted to this magazine. Copyright 2022 by IVORY GLOBAL MANAGEMENT LTD. Follow Us On Social Media @upandaway242
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James Alexander Fernander, third left, with a few of his grandchildren. Fernander is one of the oldest living residents of Gambier who can trace his history back to the liberated Africans who settled in this neighbourhood.
GAMBIER 25° North and 77° West By Shavaughn Moss Photographs courtesy of L. Roscoe Dames II
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ew Providence, home to the cosmopolitan city of Nassau, has grown from a quiet port in 1844 with a population which numbered around 8,000 inhabitants, to a bustling city, home to most of the country’s population. The island boasts an interesting blend of old-world colonial architectural charm and modern-day sophistication, and you will find everything you want. But what should not be missed are those communities that are steeped in history. On the north-western coast of New Providence, at Latitude 25° North and Longitude 77° West, about nine miles from the Nassau city centre, is Gambier village, one of the oldest villages in New Providence, dating back to the early 1800s. Dino’s Gourmet Conch Salad restaurant and The Hideaway restaurant to the west, and St. Peter’s Native Baptist Church to the east, establishments of polar opposites, stand like sentinels guarding the entrance to this Bahamian community that still retains the idyllic ideal of a bygone era interspersed with modern-day trappings, at the intersection of West Bay Street and Fernander Way. Contemporary home structures intermingle harmoniously with humble abodes. Untethered sheep roam, grazing lazily, roadside. Ducks and chickens meander across the street. Surprisingly, you may glimpse a peacock, sunning itself. Anything is possible!
Dino’s Gourmet Conch Stand restaurant stands at the x entrance to the historic Gambier village Gambier is also home to the obligatory farm on which cows, pigs, goats, sheep and chicken are raised tucked away out of sight, along a dirt road, owned by one of the community’s oldest residents, James Alexander Fernander. Finding residents sitting around their yards, whiling away the time in frivolous conversation offers an almost picture-perfect snapshot of what the leisurely island life of yesteryear looked like. The residents of Gambier village hold this existence close. It’s one of those communities where everyone knows everyone and everything. Gambier village was established by liberated Africans after the abolition of the slave trade in all British Territories in 1807. Some of those Africans left an indelible stamp on the village’s unique and intriguing history. Most notable, Elijah Morris, who led the largest slave revolt in United States history in 1841.
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GAMBIER 25° NORTH AND 77° WEST
St. Peter’s Native Baptist Church, the oldest church in the western side of the island, at the entrance to the historic Gambier Village
Ducks freely roam the streets
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A group of 135 enslaved Africans were being transported from Virginia on a ship, The Creole, to be sold in the slave market of New Orleans. After 10 days at sea, 19 of the captives, led by Morris, overpowered their guards and took control of the ship. They had planned to sail to Liberia but, with insufficient supplies, Nassau was chosen as the final destination. All the Africans who were not directly involved in the mutiny were liberated and allowed to stay in The Bahamas as free men and women. The 19 involved in the mutiny were initially held, and when Elijah Morris was declared a free man some months later, he settled in Gambier village. His descendants still reside there among the population of less than 1,000. Gambier village is believed to have been named after John Gambier, who was a member of the Governor’s Council in the 1770s and acted as governor three times. Gambier village’s evolution is one where the mature residents can recall a community of their youth that had none of the necessities that people now take for granted - street lights, homes with electricity, which of course meant no refrigeration, non-existent telephone communication, and farming families took their goods to market via dray horse. Today, Gambier village is one of self-sufficiency with practically everything its residents need, from the Gambier Primary School, at which almost all the children in the community receive their early education; a healthcare facility in the Gambier Clinic; and a church for practically every denomination—Mount Zion Baptist Church, the Church of God of Prophecy, Gambier Mission Seventh-day Adventist Church and St. Peter’s Native Baptist Church which “stands guard” at the western entrance to the historic community, and is historic in its own right, having been established in 1856 and is western New Providence’s oldest church. Also, among the highlights not to be missed during a visit to this historic community is the community well, which, although not utilized in decades, once supplied residents with water, and is still visible on the property at the Dino’s Gourmet Conch Salad restaurant. Unlike the water well, the rock oven, which is in perfect condition at the Gambier Community Park, is still used to bake delicious bread on occasions by the community development association members;
Last Man Standing Pub’s doors open into the street, literally
An original outhouse (bathroom), with modern adaptations inside, is still in use today at Dino’s Gourmet Conch Stand restaurant most especially during Emancipation Day, the first Monday in August, which celebrates the emancipation of the enslaved in the British colonies in 1834. Villages like Gambier have their own special celebrations and, on one of those occasions, the rock oven, which was a staple in the Bahamian islands when electricity wasn’t, is usually fired up. A visit to Last Man Standing Pub is a must, but beware, these doors open street side, not curb side, literally. For those with the inclination to hang out after a purchase, with no curb and only the street, the safest option is to hustle across the street where picnic-style benches have been set up which allows for a gathering. And don’t blink because you just may miss what is possibly the world’s smallest roundabout. Gambier is just one of several historic villages in New Providence that has managed to retain a certain charm of a bygone era which residents happily say co-mingle harmoniously with modern-day trappings. In the 1830s, there were at least eight free black villages or settlements outside the town of Nassau – Grant’s Town and Bain Town just south of the city, Carmichael and Adelaide in the southwest, Delancey Town just west of Nassau, Gambier in the west and Creek village (New Guinea) and Fox Hill in the east. Other villages were set up on various Family Islands—Cat Island, Exuma, Long Island, Ragged Island and Rum Cay, San Salvador, and Williamstown and Victoria (Berry Island).
Adelaide, about 17 miles southwest of Nassau, was settled by 158 Africans off the Portuguese Slaver “Rosa”, captured in 1831 by the “Pickle”. The Africans were medically treated, given land at South West Bay, where water and land were provided for cultivation. Huts were built with thatch (palmetto) roofs, wells dug, and a primitive hospital and school built. The village was doing well in 1833. In 1834, a new group of Africans was settled at Adelaide from the ships “Felicidad” and “Hebe”. After a couple of years, however, Adelaide declined because of the lack of supervision and because most of the villagers had become involved in public and domestic service in Nassau. Today, Adelaide village still survives, but the more ambitious people have moved uptown. Carmichael village is about 10 miles southwest of the town of Nassau and was said to have been settled in 1825. UA
Rock oven at the Gambier Community Park
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ROUGHING IT IN PARADISE Camping On Picturesque Rose Island Campsite on Rose Island
By Nikia Wells Photographs courtesy of Nikia Wells
Imagine… The sweet smell of gooey marshmallows caramelizing on an open flame, as the crisp spray of the ocean dances in the air. A group of strangers-turned-camping-buddies tell stories, adding bits and pieces to an unfolding tale around the warm orange and blue hues of the fire. By the end of the improvised fairytale, a biggity magical mermaid is saved from the clutches of a charming ogre via the power of friendship ... and brownies. The group is content, laughing, and full, from a fresh fish dinner, caught that same day, no doubt, that is surrounded by onions, sweet peppers, plantains, and lime juice all cooked in foil atop an open fire. There are no tables, but the ocean is just feet away from the campsite, and a magenta sunset serves as a backdrop. Before turning in for the evening, tired from an unforgettable trek up a winding, rocky cliff, the group takes in a cheeky game of Crimes Against Humanity. They are then lulled to sleep by the sounds of the calm ocean caressing the powdery sand shore...
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Campfire
amping isn’t usually synonymous with “Bahamian living”. While many men, women, children and even babies, from around the country, grew up playing games like ‘bat and ball’, while running barefoot, fishing with a simple line and hook, catching massive land crabs with their bare hands, cooking delicious meals on an outdoor grill, and navigating the tallest mango tree if it meant getting the ripest, juiciest and sweetest fruit, not many would jump at the chance to sleep in the rugged outdoors. For an adventurous few, those who often take to the beach or pine forest with just a tent, flashlight and a few essentials, they understand the pure joy of disconnecting from the world around them, looking to the starry night’s sky while telling scary stories, and waking up to the golden rays of a quiet sunrise. The sense of adventure that comes with ditching the distractions of electronics and smartphones, indoor plumbing, and the concrete walls of a traditional home can be both thrilling and freeing. However, giving up all comfort amenities is a daunting and frightening prospect, for some. Thankfully, camping has evolved over the years. Groups like Island Adventure Experiences are providing Bahamians and visitors alike with a taste of the outdoors, along with certain creature comforts. The camping tour, which departs from Montague Beach, provides campers with a scenic 30-minute boat ride to a Rose
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ROUGHING IT IN PARADISE - CAMPING ON PICTURESQUE ROSE ISLAND Grilled Fish Dinner
Peacock on Rose Island Island campsite, where they will spend the night. The site includes tents, an outdoor shower and toilet area, snacks, beverages, meals and water sport equipment and is located next to the Sand Dollar Beach Resort, Restaurant & Bar. While participants will still be hiking, sleeping outdoors, and having a true island experience, the amenities make it a perfect option for novice adventure-seekers. The unique Island Adventure Experience camping trip was created by a young Bahamian duo - Beijing Rodgers and Xavier Knowles. They both had a passion for the beauty of their Bahamaland, and their very first camping trip was offered exclusively to Bahamians in September 2021. “[Our] personal experiences, through outdoor adventures, traveling abroad & visiting the Family Islands in The Bahamas instilled a passion for [us] to give [our] fellow Bahamians the opportunity to also experience an adventure of a lifetime,” noted Rodgers, who also takes an active role in each camping adventure. Rodgers and Knowles are both assisted by Wendell Knowles, whom they affectionately call “Dad”. Approaching the unblemished shores of Rose Island, the campers can clearly spot the unmistakable orange tents that will be their home until the next day. While they will perhaps anticipate the stunning ocean and quaint campsite, many may be surprised by the sound of a peafowl family who roam the area, freely sauntering along the beach, restaurant and the camp, from time to time. After a brief introduction, the group is given a crash course in campsite etiquette, how to use the outdoor facilities and what to expect. From there, they are free to frolic in the crystal clear water, kayak, swim, or even dash next door for a full meal or cocktail if they wish - a fun feature of this experience. After an ocean dip (or restaurant and bar visit), the campers are guided through a hiking trail by adventure guide, Jeremy “Tarzan” Misiewicz. The climb, which can be tailored for various comfort levels, yields stunning views of the surrounding ocean and gives everyone a chance to work up an appetite for a grilled fish or chicken dinner overlooking an unobstructed sunset. Next up are s’mores by a fire
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Jeremy Misiewicz aka Tarzan
View from the hike on Rose Island
Sunrise over Rose Island
pit, stories by the light of a campfire, and stargazing that is unmarred by the bright lights of the city. The next day, campers can wake up to watch the sun rising from the ocean in a blanket of golden, pink, and lavender hues, before a light breakfast of fruit and soup. Another perk of being next door to a restaurant and bar is that participants can choose to get in a bit more water sports or they can feel free to grab a quick cocktail or meal while slamming down a round of dominos or shooting a lively game of pool before boarding the midday ferry back to Montague Beach. For those wishing to indulge in a camping adventure with Island Adventure Experience, the company can be contacted via www.islandadventureexperiences.com. Each camping trip departs from Montague Beach on Saturdays at 3 p.m. and returns on Sunday at 12 p.m. Bahamian residents can also enjoy a special discounted rate. UA
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AMANDA LINDROTH DESIGN ‘In a Chic-Island Space’
By Keesha Claudia Bethell Photographs courtesy of Amanda Lindroth Design, Tria Giovan and Kirk Robert
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AMANDA LINDROTH DESIGN
Amanda Lindroth’s Home Living Area
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icture it—a mother who happens to be an interior designer juggling more than 30 projects, managing 35 employees between The Bahamas; Palm Beach, Florida and Charleston, North Carolina, with her 2022 calendar filled. That’s one busy woman. In the middle of a never-ending schedule, she gives two hours of her undivided attention for the inflight magazine of her favourite airline. It sounds unlikely. But it really did happen. Interior Designer Amanda Lindroth paused her day to chat with Up and Away magazine. If you’ve ever met Amanda, you’d know that she always makes time for things near and dear to her heart. Thankfully, this magazine is one of those things. She invited us into her Hope Hill home in Lyford Cay, a gated community on the western tip on the nation’s capital—New Providence—and the experience was nothing short of amazing. Dressed in a floral pink caftan dress, pink reading glasses nestled in her blonde hair coupled with her natural charm and sense of humour, laughter reigned supreme during our time with Amanda. In between laughter, a scrumptious three-course lunch, and two pauses to acknowledge the harmonious sounds of DC3 cargo plane engines flying over her rooftop, we were grateful that she made space in her schedule to shoot the breeze with us. She was happy to unwind and make us feel comfortable and relaxed in her favourite place—at home on her porch. “My company is obsessed with Bahamasair,” she said with a smile. “You don’t understand. We love Bahamasair. The beautiful stewardesses and the wonderful accent they have on the microphone - it’s the best thing. Oh, and the pilots who don’t fly you into thunderstorms.” As the head of Lindroth Design, Amanda has gained a reputation for creating intimate, island-chic spaces. Her unique work has been featured in magazines such as Coastal Living, Condé Nast Traveler, Veranda and Real Living. For the Palm Beach, Florida native, interior design is a far cry from her initial background which included public relations. “I went to Wellesley College in Boston, which is a pretty snazzy school,” she explained. “In that era, interior design was not an option for me out of a fancy
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The Dunmore on Harbour Island
school like that. We were supposed to go to New York to go into banking or become lawyers. Advertising was an OK thing to do, or you’d go back, get a master’s degree and become something really smart.” Amanda began her career in Paris, France working as an intern at a French bank, then onto Women’s Wear Daily and W Magazine in New York covering parties and society. From there, she filled the position of public relations director for Gucci in London during Tom Ford’s tenure. Though she reached a level of success in her field, it wasn’t one that she loved because of the high demands and gruelling hours. Her professional life made a shift when she moved to The Bahamas in her 30’s with her husband who was an entrepreneur. She designed her own homes and properties associated with her husband’s company. Eventually, friends requested her expertise to beautify their spaces. “Then, I got an employee to help and an accountant and here we are with three locations and 35 employees,” she said as she laughed and repositioned her reading glasses, as she reflected on Lindroth Design, which she started back in 2010.
Water Martins Outdoor Shower
Angler’s Cottage Kitchen According to Amanda, her knack for design started when she was very young, thanks to her mother. “If I look back on my childhood, I was decorating from when I was 10 years old, ‘’ she recalled. “My parents were building a house and, without knowing it, I did a mood board for my mom for my bedroom. I liked decorating and my mother was extremely stylish, and she had an incredibly good eye. I probably learned everything from her.” Amanda’s estimate is that her eye for style has opened doors for her to head hundreds of design projects across the islands of The Bahamas. One of her favourite projects was 12 years ago and it became “a very important calling card” in her career—The Dunmore hotel. The boutique luxury hotel is in the “Nantucket of the Caribbean” - Harbour Island - off the tip of the island of Eleuthera. In part, thanks to Amanda, The Dunmore has attracted countless visitors to its breezy patios, vintage rattan, pink conch shells and 1960s resort glam. That project was Amanda’s launch pad from designing home and office spaces to bigger projects. “Our little company that was once really residential only is now beginning to do bigger hotels,” she said. At the time of our interview with Amanda, her company was working on three hospitality projects between the US and the Caribbean, namely, South Carolina, the Florida Keys and St. Lucia. As a designer, Amanda said her goal is to dazzle and create spaces that make her clients feel like someone has made an effort, that a space is loved and cared for. “The DNA of my brand and what I do is design for people at leisure—that’s the key to this,” she explained. “Everything has to dazzle. That’s just what’s on our mind when we design spaces. They just have to dazzle. For bedrooms, they have to be crispy and romantic and something that you dream of. The beds have to be ironed and the windows have to be open, and there has to be fresh air and music. We want people to feel like someone cares [about the tiny details].” Although she designs for a leisure market, she is quick to debunk the perception that leisure design must be costly. With that, she shares design secrets of how to live at leisure on a budget. For her, it boils down to creating the right atmosphere and experience.
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AMANDA LINDROTH DESIGN
Haven Hill Bedroom “Leisure is not an overly expensive thing to do,” she said. “It’s about opening the windows and cutting leaves from your own garden and putting them in a glass cylinder - this is all free.” “PIER 1 was my favourite shop in the world. Shop on Chairish - that’s the best website in the world right now for used, cheap things - we’re obsessed with it. I personally believe that decorating on a budget is easier now than it’s ever been because of these websites.” On the island of New Providence, Amanda loves to shop at Another Man’s Treasure. The store is located on the western side of the island and prides itself on having “great looks” at “great prices”. “I would encourage anyone who is interested in design to go to those stores because great things turn up in them.” One of her favourite go-to pieces is the Agen Chair from IKEA, made from bamboo and rattan. The chair is currently priced on the website at $69. Amanda describes it as “the chicest chair in the world”. Amanda’s personal style is on full display at her Hope Hill home, which she describes as a “thrift shop mecca that’s painted green”. We’ll admit that Amanda’s home is unique. It has countless guest bedrooms and is without rooms that people would normally consider important like a dining room, office and TV room. For Amanda, the importance of a home is its functionality to accommodate one’s lifestyle and personality because that’s the only way for it to feel like home. “With purpose and intent, we designed this house that’s not a beach house,” she explained. “This isn’t a house that you come to for a holiday, this is the house we live in. It has antiques. It has a collection of Bahamian paintings and things collected at auction houses and dealers over the years. Most paintings are from 1890 and 1970. Otherwise, it’s a house of comfort. “I love big, upholstered sofas and big armchairs. We added wooden floors and trims, as well as veranda shutters. “For my living room, I intentionally wanted it to look like it was 100 years old. We had the boards and ceiling done to purposely look old. I really wanted the house to look like an old house out of the 18th century with the shutters. I wanted the house to have an essence of age - like the house was here forever.” Amanda accomplished her goal. Walking into her home, we felt like we were on an island surrounded by history and island-chic elegance. Her windows and doors open to the porch, which welcomes you to a wooden table decorated with table linen from the Amanda
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Salt Box Bathroom
Windwhistle Living Room Lindroth Home Collection. The table is surrounded by 16 rattan chairs waiting to seat guests at any given time. Above the table is a fluffy chandelier covered in greens and bougainvillea. Standing at the balcony, you can inhale the fresh lawn of the Lyford Cay Golf Course while admiring the beautiful ocean view over yonder. Being in that environment, coupled with Amanda’s warm hospitality, we really felt at home and found it difficult to leave, especially after enjoying a scrumptious three-course lunch. But we knew Amanda would have to eventually get back to her busy schedule. So, we asked our last few questions. We couldn’t let her go without finding out what she would need if she were stranded on a deserted island. “A duvet, air conditioning and probably internet,” she joked. Then, we asked her to tell us a secret about her that no one knows. What she said blew our minds, especially considering how much she has to travel. “I’m afraid of flying,” she blurted out before erupting in laughter. “That’s why I know a lot about planes. I have to pray over them. I have to imagine all of the passengers getting off and getting in their cars at the destination. There’s a whole routine.” As for what she does in her spare time, although she doesn’t have much of it, she enjoys watching marathons on Bravo. But she recently enjoyed binge-watching “Anatomy of a Scandal” on Netflix. “I had to give a live Instagram interview at three o’clock that day and I could barely get through the interview because I was so eager to get back to the show,” she admitted. “It’s good, good. I was so sad when it was over.”
At the age of 59, Amanda said she “loves getting old”. Her new focus is growing a new arm of her brand - The Amanda Lindroth Home Collection. It consists of all the accessories you would need for guests to feel at home whether at an intimate outdoor dinner or for an extended stay as a house guest. Her collection has everything from tableware and lanterns to furniture, pillows and cushions. As our time wound down, Amanda shared advice for those interested in entering interior design. “Study, study, study and be passionate about it,” she stressed. As the mother of 16-year-old Eliza, she can’t help giving advice to young people. “It’s not that hard to do things the correct way,” she said in a motherly tone. “Reputation is important. Admit mistakes immediately. Everyone is afraid of admitting a mistake. But that’s what life is. It’s a series of problems that have to be handled.” Our last question to Amanda was what she wants her legacy to be. “I want people to think about the idea of really living well and what does that mean,” she said exhaling and looking over at her private ocean view. “It doesn’t mean being posh. It just means being meaningful in the moment and living well and enjoying your house to the best of its ability to make sure that you are creating a surrounding that has comfort and feels like it is loved.” With that, we ended our interview. Amanda walked us outside, we hugged, and she thanked us for coming by. But we didn’t say farewell to Amanda because she made us feel like family. We simply said thank you for the Amanda Lindroth experience. UA
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OFF THE BEATEN PATH THE ‘FRENCH CORNER’ OF TURKS AND CAICOS
Le Bouchon
Le Bouchon - Steak au Poivre
By David Newlands Photographs courtesy of www.WhereWhenHow.com
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mbiance is everything – when looking for an ideal, high-end dining experience, it is easy to be deceived into thinking the best options are the luxurious steak houses and lavish restaurants located in one of the many resorts on island, but visitors to Turks and Caicos have other options off the beaten path. Fine dining in Turks and Caicos is often an indoor affair, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more romantic setting than a sidewalk table under the stars in France and Italy. Most will be surprised to find that Providenciales has its own romantic European-styled establishments tucked away in the Regent Village. Located off the main road in Grace Bay, hidden away from the prying eyes of passers-by on the main street, visitors and locals alike have found themselves seemingly transported to the winding streets of Paris when they dine at ‘Le Bouchon Du Village’ and ‘Le Comptoir Francais’, respectively. Opened in 2012 by Julien and Pierrik Marziou, this dining experience offers a unique blend of traditional French cuisine and local fare that is cooked with the excellence and love that can only be found in a French kitchen. Originally the owners of another iconic local restaurant, Caicos Café, the Marziou family decided to bring a more authentic French experience to the streets of Turks and Caicos. Designed in the style of a traditional French bistro and café, most of the dining is outdoors where guests find themselves surrounded by overhead string light fixtures, an abundance of vibrant plants, repurposed wine barrels and other classic French décor.
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OFF THE BEATEN PATH THE ‘FRENCH CORNER’ OF TURKS AND CAICOS
Le Bouchon - Conch Burger While other fine dining establishments tend to be indoors with a focus on opulent decorations and a white tablecloth setting, Le Le Bouchon - Wahoo Bouchon and Le Comptoir offer a more relaxed dining experience, providing excellent quality food while boasting an easy going, unpretentious atmosphere that is shared by Europeans and people of the Caribbean. Of the two restaurants, Le Bouchon focuses more on the bistro aspect of the dining experience, offering guests a range of traditional French fare, such as escargot, steak au poivre, magret de canard (duck breast), confit de canard (duck thigh) and fois gras. They also offer world-class preparations of local favourites such as grouper, snapper, lobster, conch ceviche and wahoo ceviche. If these options weren’t enough, and you wanted to go above and beyond to impress your dinner date, you can indulge in luxury dishes such as caviar, truffle pasta, tomahawk steaks and racks of lamb. All these items are displayed not on the classic menu books, but rather a traditional French bistro menu, commonly referred to as a well-placed chalkboard. Guests can finish off their meal with a delicious dessert like mousses, macaroons or crème brulé. If you are looking for something less formal, for a lunch or quick bite, you need to look no further than directly across the street, where you will find ‘Le Comptoir Francais’— locally known as Julien’s Deli. Acting as more of a café than a bistro, this is a casual eatery that offers dine-in and carry-out selection. Popular among the locals for offering some of the best sandwiches on island, be sure to arrive early to make your order, or you may have difficulty finding a seat. Showcasing a wide selection of delicatessen meats and cheese from France, Le Comptoir offers dishes Le Bouchon - Escargot ranging from special sandwiches on fresh baked bread, to charcuterie boards. Along with these delicious bites, guests can order the same assortment of meats and cheeses to take home to enjoy after the day is done, along with an array of spices, olive oils, sauces and pastas. Being a French establishment, there is also an array of wine, boasting a world-wide selection on offer for diners to enjoy by the glass or bottle, or to take home with those French delicacies that they bought on their way out. If you want a little slice of traditional French dining while out in the Caribbean, you need to look no further than Le Bouchon Du Village and Le Comptoir Francais, where they offer a full range of items that can satisfy any French or European cravings that you may have during your time in the islands. When you find yourself on Providenciales, be sure to make your way to the Regent Village and ask for Julien—I can personally guarantee you won’t regret it. UA
Le Comptoir Deli
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Le Comptoir - Julien Classic
Acklins
The Untouched Gem of The Bahamas By Nikia Wells Photographs courtesy of Tony E. Williams
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Beautiful Acklins
Heading Out On A Fishing Trip
here are many hidden gems and little-known pockets of paradise throughout the length and breadth of The Bahamas. Acklins is known for its rich cascarilla history, but many might not have gotten a first-hand immersion into the wonders of this untouched southern island. Here, several Acklins residents (past and present) share their first-hand experiences about life on Acklins and what makes the island truly unique. Tony Williams may now live in New Providence, but when he returns to Acklins, it still feels like home. “That breeze…” he casually remarks, trailing off slightly. When he speaks about the island, you can audibly hear a sense of ease and peace in his voice, almost as if the mere thought of being back on the island brings him a sense of unsullied tranquility. “The island is just beautiful, tranquil, peaceful…. You can go on any beach in Acklins and you will not be disturbed. You can just go and it’ll be just you on the beach. The people are also very friendly. You can strike up a conversation with nearly anybody and they would give you the history of Acklins. I actually think that’s what makes the island unique and what makes us special. “You don’t have that stress of having to deal with traffic, having to deal with any of the other things that you will find in the big city. You can just drive and enjoy the island scenery. I don’t think you can drive a mile without seeing the water in Acklins. That view…. that view is always there. And, that sea breeze—you can open your window and you don’t have to use the air condition because you get that fresh island breeze. “I grew up right next to the water and it was like having my own personal beach. It doesn’t have an official name, but we call it Williams Beach. On a normal day, I just spend the day relaxing on the porch, catching some of that cool island
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ACKLINS - THE UNTOUCHED GEM OF THE BAHAMAS breeze, and maybe visiting family. We have coconut trees in our yard, so you can get some coconut water and jelly - you pick them and open them yourself. “We all usually cook for ourselves. My sister is there; my mom is there. So, I usually just eat by them. That’s how things are there. We’re all self-sufficient. But, if I’m not eating by my friends and family, I go to Club Rolex. They have some serious crack conch.” That captivating feeling of complete and utter calm is a common thread when speaking to another Acklins resident - Anita Collie. If someone was visiting Acklins for the first time, she would suggest exploring, taking a kayak around the mangroves, checking out the caves, enjoying a moment of solitude on the beach, or going bonefishing (some of the best bonefishing in the entire Bahamas, according to Anita). She also highly recommends visiting the old churches and just being open to interacting with the people that you meet. “Acklins is remote and untouched, and that is a big part of why it is so unique. It’s natural. Unlike some of the other islands in The Bahamas that may be a bit more commercialized, Acklins is very close to how it used to be about 50-60 years ago. If you drive through the island of Acklins, you will see settlements that are tucked away. Definitely explore the old churches and just go into the settlements and talk. The people will welcome you. We love sharing the rich history of who we are.“ “If you’re looking for a good meal outside of someone’s home, I would go to Hillside Restaurant in the south. That’s in Salina Point and the owner there is Nikki Forbes. If I’m just coming off of the plane, I would go to the Airport Inn; that’s Mrs. Mabel Hanna. If I’m in Central Acklins, I would go to Club Rolex; that’s Henry Rolle. If you’re in the north, you can find Claudine Virgil. She cooks. Claudine and Shenique—that’s a mother and daughter team in the north, in Lovely Bay.” “Most people are still very welcoming. If you come to their home, they will offer you a piece of cake or some bread or a soda.” “One of my greatest joys is exploring the outdoors. My biggest passion, above all that I do, is bush tea medicines; identifying the differing herbs that
Line Fishing we have here on the island that are indigenous to Acklins and harvesting tea leaves. We have everything there and have been using them for over 100 years. When I was born, I saw my mother making bush teas.” “We have so many. Five fingers, strong back, kamalame, rock bush, fever grass, catnip, bay geranium, soursop … and, of course, the cascarilla. You can’t forget that. That is what really makes Acklins special. I use the cascarilla
Sponging Boat and Net
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Cutting Open A Coconut for teas, I make my own bitters, and during the Acklins Cascarilla Festival, you can see so many different uses for it. “ “A good majority of the people who live in Acklins still go fishing, they still go crabbing, and we beat the cascarilla bark. We go into the bush, cut the bark, soak it, beat it, and then clean it and take it to the local buyer.“ “I also harvest and dry my own salt. I use that in my cooking, my soaps and in my scrubs. Salt harvesting has always been a part of the Acklins culture and still is. There are various salt ponds around Acklins and I used to even go to them as a child. Now, you can go to the pond near Delectable Bay and you can collect big crystal clear chunks of salt. We don’t enhance it, we don’t do anything to it. We only harvest it, spread it out and let the sun do its magic. The sun purifies it and gives it its white color. In Acklins, most people cook with local salt. I have not used a boxed salt in about 11 years.” “When you are in Acklins, you need to try the flour cake. It is a dessert that Acklins has been known for. We don’t bake it in the oven. The oven is not the same as baking it outside or in your kitchen, over coal, on a three-legged rock oven. The fire seasons it, and gives it a unique flavor.” “A lot of people still use their outdoor ovens even if they have conventional ovens. We still have that deep connection to our history and our culture.” For Oralee Beneby, flour cakes are also a must-have for persons visiting Acklins. She described them as some of the best in The Bahamas. She notes that even though growing up on the island wasn’t easy, she has a deep love for Acklins. “Growing up in Acklins was really hard. The supply boat didn’t come as often as it does today. But, I am thankful that we did a lot of farming. Everything that we had, we had to grow and make it. We made the guinea corn grits, the yellow grits, and my granddaddy grew oranges and peanuts. Can you imagine that?” “We ate a lot of seafood. And when the rooster crowed, you had to get up. We would get up early to get wood to light the fire, to get the stove rolling. And you had to tote water.” “That’s just how life was.” “I used to also go to Samana Cay where they grew the cascarilla bark, and at eight or nine years old, we would get up early in the morning, go in the field, go to the pond, get the bark; we had to pull it and beat it, put it in the sun, and pick out all the sticks…. It wasn’t easy at all.” “I eventually moved to Nassau at about 11 years old. We came by boat and it took us almost two weeks. Despite all of that, Acklins is still so special to me. “Life there is much easier now. I still go back often because I love Acklins. Those memories—I hold them close to my heart and I cherish them. Everything I went through taught me how to appreciate things and how to take what little I have and make something out of it. “While Acklins is more modern, we still stay connected to our roots. Just going out on the bay, and just looking at the beautiful water - it’s amazing. There is a beautiful part of Lovely Bay that, when the tide is low, you can just walk right out and pick up a conch.
Coconut Water ‘Nectar Of The Gods’
Ms. Remalia Williams and great-grandson Noah Laroda-Deal “Right in the front of my door, there is a dock. The boats that come there head to Crooked Island. So, when the ferry comes in, everything is happening right in front of my door. And that breeze … Oh, my God! “Acklins is my home. I have my house and I always planned to move back. When you go to Acklins, it’s just peaceful. You move on your own time and it’s just a different environment. You go to bed, get up, and move when you choose.” UA
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REGATTAS A WAY OF LIFE IN THE ISLANDS
Bull Reg and Confusion go head to head during a C-Class
By Kendea Smith Photographs courtesy of Patrick Hanna/Ministry of Agriculture, Marine Resources and Family Island Affairs PR Department
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t happens in Andros, Bimini, Cat Island, Exuma, Eleuthera, Grand Bahama and New Providence and is the lifeblood of many residents—regattas are more than just boat races to Bahamians. According to officials, there are about 76 boats that are registered to race throughout The Bahamas. The first official regatta was held in 1954, but Chairman of the National Family Island Regatta Committee Danny Strachan would tell you that Bahamians have been sailing long before that. “Rolleville says that they have been sailing for about 76 years. However, organized regattas would be about 69 years old. Regattas have evolved over
the years. When they started, they were work boats because the occupants would spend about three to four weeks working, fishing and cooking on those boats,” he said. Strachan indicated that many younger Bahamians are now training to become masters of the sea. “It is a way of life for many Bahamians. Over the years, the boats have turned into racing vessels, and they are built for speed. The regattas are continuing to grow as the interest in it continues to grow. We have a junior programme and many of the boaters in that programme are able to compete with veterans. We need to bring in new blood and we are well on our way to doing that.”
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REGATTAS: A WAY OF LIFE IN THE ISLANDS Minister of Agriculture, Marine Resources and Family Island Affairs Hon. Clay Sweeting participates with members of the Patten Pride from Blackpoint, Exuma
Joshua Green, skipper from the Captain Peg from Andros, participates in the E-Class race President of the Exuma Sailing Club Dallas Knowles would agree. The club takes budding sailors from eight to 18 years old. “We train them to sail in the optimist and sunfish classes and, as they become more experienced, we move them into the junior sloops. We are unique because we use both traditional sloops and international fleets for training,” he explained. “A lot of kids are involved, and I have parents asking all the time how their kids can be involved in sailing, and we are in the Elizabeth Harbour in Exuma all the time. It’s a great sport where kids learn discipline and it takes a lot of attention to detail to make sure everything is right and working. But with them competing and beating veterans now, a lot of respect has been earned for them.” Regattas and sloop sailing remain a profound passion for many Bahamians. The boats are works of art on the sea. The races are hotly contested as many islands look to be crowned “The Best of the Best”, which is the final regatta held for the year, in December, in New Providence. The events themselves have birthed many professions such as boat building, sail making, T-shirt manufacturing, arts, music and entrepreneurship. Lloyd Sands, a boat builder and sailor out of South Andros, said he learned this trade because his father repaired boats. He added that he finds boatbuilding to be a lucrative profession.
From Left, BAAA President Drumeco Archer and Hon. Clay Sweeting pose with Tanaj Manos, Trevor Brown Jr, Dallas Clark of One Bahamas won the Ministry of Agriculture, Marine Resources and Family Island Affairs Cup Bob Couglin, president of The Friends of The Exumas Foundation, Stephen Knowles, Acting Governor General Cynthia Pratt
The Mako participates in the E-Class race
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Regatta entertainment at night in George Town, Exuma
“Boat building represents who I am because of where I am from. I always watched my father as he repaired boats and I realized that all the boat builders were dying out. I love boat building and sailing evenly. When I put a boat together, I am challenging myself to build something that will fly on the water,” he said. “I like to see the kids’ faces when they help build something that can go on the water and, hopefully, we will have a new generation of boat builders soon because this is our way of life.” This year, the National Family Island Regatta, held in Exuma, featured the C and E Classes of boats. Usually, this event features classes A, B, C and E. However, many of the upper-class boats were unable to sail in Exuma due to much-needed repairs because of the COVID-19 pandemic. It is anticipated that more boats will participate in the Andros, Bimini, Eleuthera/Harbour Island and Long Island regattas.
The regattas also have dynamic onshore activities. This year, there were vendors from across The Bahamas selling food, arts and crafts and other items. Many of them were eager to serve patrons after a two-year hiatus. “These regattas have a tremendous impact to where they are being held and this consists of Bahamians and foreigners coming in. The regattas do wonders for the islands, especially in islands where they don’t have a lot of activity,” said Strachan. He added that the Regatta Committee is looking forward to next year’s celebrations. “Next year is the 50th anniversary of the country and, certainly, we will have plans associated with that.” UA
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WELLNESS WITH ‘BAHAYOGI’
‘The Spirit of Island Living’
By Alexandra ‘Bahayogi’ Kaufmann Photographs courtesy of Elijah Sands, Shawne Bryan and Alexandra Kaufmann
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irthed near the ocean with sunshine in my veins and the sound of crashing waves in my ears—I was born an island girl. The quintessential dream life begins on an island, beachfront, sandy toes and fresh coconut in hand. What a privilege it is to call this my reality. I live in paradise. But this life is so much more than just a picturesque view. Island living encompasses a greater connection to Mother Earth and our inner being. Island living is peace, gratitude, and respect. A breath of fresh air is a breath of peace. In IQAir’s 2021 report on World Air Quality, The Bahamas ranked as the country with the cleanest air quality globally. So, how can we take advantage of this crisp, clean air? Take a moment, step outside and breathe. Find yourself in 10 deep belly breaths filled with intention and appreciation for the life it brings into your body. Want more? Get closer to the ocean and take a seat near the shoreline. Connect your breath to the natural ebb and flow of the ocean’s waves, and as you breathe in that salty-sweet air, take a moment to bask in the power of Mother Nature’s gift—salt. Salt is a healing property. According to the Lung Institute, ocean air improves lung function, thins mucus, and reduces coughing in individuals with lung disease and breathing issues. The ocean air contains tiny droplets of seawater, which contain salt, iodine, and magnesium. When we breathe, we inhale these restorative particles, which stimulate our immune system to help clear out any impurities. A few days on the beach can help significantly improve your mood, enhance breathing, and cultivate peace. And that’s the doctor’s order! As an island girl, I am grateful for pristine beaches, breath-taking sunsets, freshly picked juicy mangoes that drain down my forearms when I eat them, and everything else that reminds me of how magical my country is. Yet, my gratitude delves even deeper into my maternal lineage rooted in Andros and Cat Island. When I step foot on these islands, my body, mind, and soul feel a sense of nourishment. As if my ancestors’ wisdom, power, courage, and love flow through me with every step and breath. I say this to remind you of the importance of sharing thanks with those that came before us and honoured this land, bringing it to fruition. And with those who continue to keep this land lush,
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clean, and fruitful. So, whether The Bahamas is your home, your vacation, or your temporary destination, ask yourself—what am I grateful for? Through gratitude, we understand the importance of respect. Our islands give us warmth, food, and shelter, amongst many other resources. It is our human duty to give back and do everything we can to ensure the longevity of these beautiful landscapes. I deepen my connection to this land through grounding, also known as earthing. Or, in Bahamian terms, by being a “hard-heel gal”. Connect to Mother Earth—remove your shoes, walk barefoot and listen to her requests through this soul/sole connection. This therapeutic technique can help to reconnect you to the Earth electrically. The central theory from one study is that grounding affects the living matrix, which is the main connector between living cells. You can also achieve this connection by lying on the ground, spending time in the water, and interacting with flora and fauna. When we deepen our relationship with the Earth, we align with initiatives to maintain a more sustainable atmosphere. A few ways you can share love and respect for our environment are: Keep our surroundings litter-free by picking up after yourself and others. When you go to the beach, travel with a garbage bag and help by removing any trash left behind. Reduce single-use plastic to help decrease the devastating impact it is having on ocean wildlife. Eat seasonal and local produce to help reduce your food’s environmental footprint and help support the local economy. Honour local fishing guidelines by catching only small amounts of seafood and within the correct seasons. Protect and save bees by planting bee-friendly flowers like sunflowers, marigolds, and nasturtiums. Wild and domestic honeybees perform about 80% of all pollination
worldwide, including 70 of the top 100 human food crops supplying 90% of the world’s nutrition. Bees are essential for our survival. Conserve energy by switching the lights off when you leave the room and replacing your lightbulbs with low-energy LED lights. Consuming less power at home helps reduce power plant emissions emitted when generating electricity and helps conserve the Earth’s natural resources. Save water by making changes at home, such as turning the tap off when brushing your teeth, taking a shower rather than a bath, and shortening your shower time. Also, you can save rainwater for certain chores like watering your garden or washing your car. These are just a handful of simple ways to give back to our islands and planet. Share these tips with your family and friends to increase the impact. As you can see, when we invest our time, love, and care into our islands, we receive a vast bounty chockful of nourishment, growth, and understanding. We develop a greater appreciation far beyond the aesthetic and much closer to the spirit of what authentic island living means. And that makes me a devoted island girl. UA
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BLACK SAILS TOURS HISTORY OF BLACK SAILS TOURS The owners and operators of Black Sails Tours seized the opportunity to create memorable experiences for visitors to The Bahamas. Their goal is to ensure that every guest is comfortably immersed in the history, culture and beauty of the islands. Black Sails Tours entered the tourism market and began offering day excursions in December 2020. The company, which is owned and operated by a group of young Bahamian entrepreneurs, offers commercial day excursions to the islands of Exuma and Eleuthera, and private charter tours are available upon request. UA
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LONG ISLAND ‘Island Life Sweet Aye’ By Bianca Major Photographs courtesy of Bianca Major
Thrasher Bird Sitting On Fruits At Local Beach Bar
Dock of the Bay at North Long Island
Vintage Bahamian Home with Kitchen and Chimney
“Sittin’ in the mornin’ sun I’ll be sittin’ when the evenin’ comes Watching the ships roll in Then I watch ‘em roll away again, yeah I’m sittin’ on the dock of the bay Watchin’ the tide roll away, ooh I’m just sittin’ on the dock of the bay Wastin’ time”
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yrics of the classic song, “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay”, performed by the legendary Otis Redding, captures the essence of island living. No worries, no cares, just enjoying the moments of quiet serenity. Life moves differently down in these parts, the “good island life”. Time draws slower, nothing happens before its time or, in another sense, life on the islands is lived on “island time”.
Island Time Is Hammock Time On A Local Beach
Best island living tip … never ask about time, it’s either you arrive on time, or you get there, when you get there, which some may call, “fashionably late”—which we islanders live by. Need islanders to be on time for anything? Just mention the words “party”, “beer”, “rum”, or “food” and everyone files in like clockwork, not missing a hot minute. And with that said, “Da party dun!” That “sweet island life”, yep, the city folks can’t wait for a break to enjoy this lifestyle. Oh well, the cat’s out of the bag. One of The Bahamas’ best kept secret hideaways is Long Island, my favorite island! We take island living to a whole new level here, and those who appreciate the country lifestyle can relate. Family, community, church life, love for nature and the simple life, is what makes Long Island, H O M E. Whether you are making Long Island your new home or if it has always been your “forever home”, you will certainly be welcomed with the peace, tranquillity and a feeling of a new lease on life, as the island life takes you into a dimension previously not experienced. “It’s as if you are on a different plane, as if time stands still,” said Bernadette Chenowith. Warning: If you must return to your regularly scheduled, fast-paced life, withdrawals will be a tad bit rough.
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LONG ISLAND - ‘ISLAND LIFE SWEET AYE’ Most islanders start their day with a good cup of tea or mug of coffee, to get the juices flowing, followed by a hearty homemade breakfast, fresh bread or a hot grits dish with some tuna salad or a favourite breakfast sausage. No fast-food joints around here; it’s a mostly cook-your-own-food kind of vibe. The usual workday consists of … well, that all depends on you, the work and what day of the week it is. Some may consider sitting at the local beach bar, throwing back some refreshing gin and coconut water aka “Sky Juice” and getting a belly full of some fresh conch salad, a full day’s work. Hey, it’s your day and it’s your way. On the regular, you will find the fisherman heading out to sea for a day or a few, for fishing, crawfishing, conching, sponging or deep-sea fishing. At the end of it all, they get to share their catch with family, friends and make a decent living while doing what they love. Whether it’s farming, fishing or hunting, the family bond is strong with the youngsters being taught by their elders and fathers how to farm, hunt, fish and navigate the seas. Holiday breaks are mini vacations spent at home, but not in the house; rather, at your favourite beach spot, cay or secret hideaway with parents, kids, cousins, grandparents, the whole family, “the works”. The epitome of family time is sitting around the campfire roasting marshmallows, making s’mores, grilling food and fish, telling stories, swimming, bodyboarding, water rafting, kite flying, and just enjoying life, the great outdoors. Living that island life, night-time may find you “in da bush” or on the roadsides crabbing. Yes, crabbing, just as the crabs walk in droves, the people catch them in droves. Sunday dinner will be a tasty and spectacular feast, as the drums roll for the dinner time chime. That crab n’ rice will be a showstopper, a must-try for the first timers. Along with grouper fish, while in season, battered and pan-fried, and fresh caught crawfish/lobster tail, infused with lemon garlic-herbed butter; enough to make you forget all your troubles and fill your belly. There is never any shortage of good food to choose from as locals take pride in cooking. And be sure, they will have you coming to look for more. Island sightseeing is a pleasure we all enjoy, whether you are driving “up” south or “down” north, you will eventually arrive at your destination. Making a few stops along the way to your favourite blue hole, like the famous Dean’s Blue Hole, the shrimp hole or swimming spots. We did say a few stops ... nothing like a good full day of bar hopping whilst living your best island life. While on the journey, you might have taken time to pick your favourite fruits, like some fresh-picked bananas, cherries, coconuts, mangoes, oranges and watermelons to take a dip with you.
Conch Salad Sitting On the Bay in Long Island
Recipe for “Take A Dip”
Minced Crawfish With White Rice And Native Pumpkin
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The next time you go to the beach, we recommend that you take your fruits, preferably mango, pineapple, or watermelons (sliced), and dip in the ocean water, take a bite and enjoy. Tell me about it later. While exploring, be sure to capture some of Long Island’s most beautiful scenery and your treasured moments. The sunsets are beyond breath-taking, and the night-time sky is perfect for stargazing. Sit out at the northside cliffs and watch the moonlight caress the indigo waves, whilst marvelling over the Milky Way, brushed across the night sky. Bird watching, flamingo tracking, feeding the ducks, beach combing, treasure hunting, boat racing, and visiting historical sites, there is so much more Long Island has to offer. You may want to put in for a few more days off. Heck, just hand in your permanent relocation notice. Thinking of making Long Island your future vacation destination, home away from home, or permanent place of relocation? Then, be prepared for a new type of living. Choose your luxury, go off the grid or have the best of both worlds. UA
ISLAND LIVING
‘A Realtor’s Perspective’ with Nick Damianos
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Interviewed By L. Roscoe Dames II and Keesha Claudia Bethell Photographs courtesy of Damianos Sotheby’s International Realty
pread across 700 islands and 2,400 cays in waters so supernaturally crystal blue that you’ll feel surrounded by an infinity pool oasis, The Bahamas is one of the sweetest pieces of paradise in the world. Combine the country’s natural beauty with its idyllic year-round warm climate and you’ll get the most exquisite island living experience. But what if you choose to make your experience into a permanent stay by becoming a second homeowner and what do you need to know before making your final decision? For Bahamians exploring the real estate market, what should you consider and what are the current trends? Up and Away magazine sat down with Nick Damianos - a Bahamian realtor, whose extensive portfolio made him the perfect person from which to get the scoop. What’s a major benefit of island living in The Bahamas?
The beauty of “island living” is that each island has a distinct personality—and The Bahamas has so many to choose from. Even though the Bahamian archipelago is one country, each inhabited island has a unique spirit. However, the common thread is a sense of community and togetherness that can only come from living on an island. From a realtor’s perspective, how is island living perceived compared to how it actually is? I think island living is perceived as a perpetual vacation, whereas, in reality, it entails some of the same mundane elements of city life—working, running errands, etc. The difference is, on an island, you can always escape to the beach. What is it like to live on a Family Island?
3 Harbour Mews need. The upside is you get to create your own paradise made to your personal preferences. You become Master of your own World! What are the current trends for local homeowners? With the advent of Airbnb, it opened up the market to more Nassauvians, so having the ability to rent that property out makes it a lot more attractive because Bahamians don’t all have property in the Family Islands. What are current challenges for local homeowners?
more than makes up for it!
The biggest challenge of being such an attractive destination for foreigners is it drives up the cost of homes everywhere. There is a high demand for properties, generally. There are high costs to building, based on customs and import duties. For college graduates, it can be quite expensive to purchase coming out of college and moving back home. As a result, a number of Bahamian college graduates choose to stay overseas where the options are more diverse and, in most cases, more affordable.
What is it like living on a private island?
What are the current trends for second homeowners?
Living on a private island offers the ultimate level of seclusion and privacy. However, it requires more forethought and planning to ensure you have all you
The current buyers are buying for the lifestyle and not so much the tax benefits. The Bahamas has excellent weather year-round making it an attractive location.
The family islands are the islands outside the island of New Providence. They offer an idyllic, relaxed lifestyle. One can leave the doors unlocked, and children can ride their bikes safely in the streets. The family islands allow for more quality family time. For those seeking the ‘get back to basics’ lifestyle find that the laid-back vibe
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7 Great locations to serve you.
THE WHOPPER
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and nothing but the Whopper
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East St. South Saunders Beach Frederick St., North Tonique Williams-Darling Hwy. Carmichael Rd. Prince Charles Dr. Bernard Rd.
burgerking.bs Nassau
ISLAND LIVING – ‘A REALTOR’S PERSPECTIVE’ WITH NICK DAMIANOS Ocean Club Estates
What are some of the things that people forget to consider before purchasing a property? The number one thing people forget to consider is maintenance. It takes effort and money to keep a property in great condition, and the most efficient way to do that is with preventative maintenance rather than remedial maintenance. What advice would you give to locals purchasing property/homes? When considering purchasing a home, decide on the neighbourhood first and then look for a property you would like to have in your price point. What advice would you give to second homeowners purchasing property/homes?
What are the current challenges for second homeowners?
Decide on the island you like first (homes can be changed, furniture can be changed, paint colour can be changed, etc.)—but location cannot. Once you have selected your desired location, go into the selection process of your property at your price point.
The number one challenge is the limited inventory of properties and a high demand coming from all over the world. For those who already own property, their challenges are the same all over the world in the maintenance and upkeep of the property. If they have a good property, generally, there is nothing to complain about. What are your thoughts on planned communities? Master planned communities are becoming the preferred lifestyle choice across all price points. Planned communities have long been popular in the luxury market, but there is now a demand in all market segments. Homebuyers seem willing to trade a little bit of space for the comradery and built-in amenities of community living.
NICK DAMIANOS’ BIO
Caves Heights How has the introduction of Airbnb affected the market? Airbnb and other short-term rental platforms have opened up the market for vacation home ownership to people who may not have otherwise been able to afford it. These platforms allow homeowners to earn significant revenue from their home when they are not using it. In most cases, short-term rentals go a long way to defraying the annual cost of homeownership and, in some instances, provide an attractive, positive return on investment. This has encouraged many Bahamians to invest in property in the Family Islands.
Nick Damianos is a savvy and energetic real estate professional who specializes in working with international buyers. Nick’s intimate knowledge of the Bahama Islands and extensive contacts throughout the business community enable him to provide a smooth transition to foreign purchasers who have never owned a home in The Bahamas. Whether the purchaser is looking for a vacation home, investment property or wishes to relocate to The Bahamas permanently, Nick is an expert on guiding his clients through every step of the process. From choosing the right area, schools, lawyers, bankers, insurance companies and maintenance providers, to helping clients through immigration and residency matters and joining country clubs, Nick is a full-service provider. UA Real Estate Professional Damianos Sotheby’s International Realty nick.damianos@sirbahamas.com www.sirbahamas.com
How has the COVID-19 pandemic affected real estate? Since the onset of the pandemic, we have seen an explosion in demand for properties in The Bahamas. The new work-from-home phenomenon means that people are no longer tethered to major cities and can reside anywhere. With our great climate, easy lifestyle and favourable tax environment, The Bahamas is the perfect place for people to move to. What are some of the lessons learned for homebuyers? A lot of people have learned this one lesson—if you like a property, act quickly.
Private Island
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‘East End is Open for Business’
Off The Beaten Path
Tipsy Sisters Maggie Leathen
EAST END, GRAND BAHAMA By Yolanda Hanna Photographs courtesy of Matthew Wildgoose
Tipsy Sisters
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Tipsy Sisters Wings and a Sands Beer
heard about an interesting restaurant located in East Grand Bahama that is serving up the best-tasting Bahamian food, in a warm, friendly atmosphere with the ear-catching name that I found delightful, Tipsy Sisters. I went in search of this quaint little establishment with my good friend and fellow Grand Bahamian, visual artist Matthew Wildgoose, and we embarked on a 45-minute drive to the settlement of McLean’s Town in East Grand Bahama, the location of Tipsy Sisters Restaurant & Bar. Tipsy Sisters is the wonderful creation of six sisters from Grand Bahama, who came up with the idea to start a business based on their mutual interests—good food and having fun! The daily operation of the restaurant and bar is managed by one of the six tipsy sisters, Maggie Leathen, and her husband Kendal, who also owns a bonefishing lodge nearby.
Tipsy Sisters Minced Crawfish, Peas n Rice, Crack Conch
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“The idea came from me and my five sisters and, yes, a few of us do get a little tipsy sometimes! We like to have fun, we like to party, and I love to cook, so we decided to open a restaurant together and we came up with the name ‘Tipsy Sisters’,” explained Maggie. Tipsy Sisters reopened in McLean’s Town less than a year ago and, according to Maggie, business has been better than they could imagine. Residents and visitors to Grand Bahama travel the eastern end of the island to enjoy their delicious Bahamian menu offerings, comprised of fresh seafood—conch, fish and lobster (the Bahamian trio), good old Bahamian breakfast favourites like stewed conch and boiled fish, and a plethora of other dishes that are available seven days a week. A new conch stand is under construction on the outside and almost near completion; Maggie brags that she will be in command of the conch stand and preparing fresh conch salad daily when the stand is completed.
I quickly realize it’s the warm Tipsy Sisters atmosphere filled with friendly faces, bright smiles and good music that customers really enjoy and, for this reason, it is easy to spend hours relaxing at the bar, or sitting lazily outside mesmerized by the view of the turquoise ocean, and watching passengers board or disembark the ferry boat traveling to Abaco. Matthew and I passed the time chatting with Maggie, enjoying cold beers, chicken wings and really conchy conch fritters, while we waited for our lunch orders to be packaged to go. Maggie shared details with us about the devastation Hurricane Dorian caused her family—the destruction of their home in Freeport, the destruction of the restaurant and the decision to relocate to McLean’s Town to rebuild their lives, the business, and contribute to rebuilding the community. “Our home in Freeport was destroyed by the hurricane and we made the decision to relocate to McLean’s Town to rebuild the business and to do whatever we could do to rebuild the community. My husband is from McLean’s Town, this is where he grew up, and it’s the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen”, said Maggie. “The people of East End are really pushing to rebuild their communities. Businesses have reopened and we want to move on and rebuild,” added Maggie. “I just want to encourage the people of East End to continue to work together; our communities are so blessed, and I just want the world to know that East End, Grand Bahama is open for business.”
EJ’s Bayside Café
Ferry to Abaco from East End
Goat Loving East End
Evelyn ‘Eva’ Thomas of EJ’s Bayside Cafe
Less than a minute away from Tipsy Sisters, situated a few feet from the bay (or the ocean), is another local restaurant jewel called EJ’s Bayside Café. We meet owner Evelyn ‘Eva’ Thomas entering the restaurant through a side door that led to the kitchen. EJ’s is located across the street from Eva’s house, which was severely damaged from Hurricane Dorian in 2019. Eva was born and raised in McLean’s Town, and she shared that she was determined to rebuild her house and restaurant after the storm. Coincidentally, EJ’s was the only restaurant that was left standing in McLean’s Town after Hurricane Dorian. “My house was severely damaged and there was a lot of work for us to do after the storm,” said Eva. “Our restaurant was the only restaurant that was standing after Dorian. The structure was still here.” Eva said she felt that was a sign from God that she needed to rebuild the restaurant. However, in the aftermath of Dorian, the clean-up efforts in the area seemed to be moving slowly. Eva decided that she and her husband Joe had to take matters in their hands. “As the weeks went by, many of our customers drove to McLean’s Town looking for the restaurant; they told me that they missed my food. I was so encouraged by that; it inspired me and my husband to get things going. So, we
EJ’s Conch Balls
began cleaning and repairing the restaurant, and then we focused on rebuilding the house.” A year later, EJ’s Bayside Café reopened fully renovated and, these days, the restaurant is open for business seven days a week. Eva offers a scrumptious menu of Bahamian food daily. Notable favourites are the fresh seafood dishes made from lobster, fish and conch - which are all caught fresh by her husband Joe. Also on the menu are shrimp dishes, burgers, steaks and Eva’s signature conch balls, made from 100% fresh conch. Cold beers and soft drinks are also available. As I tasted Eva’s delicious conchy conch balls (which were sensational!), I asked if she ever considered relocating after Hurricane Dorian. “McLean’s Town is my home,” said Eva. “I never thought of leaving. My husband and I hit the ground running and we began rebuilding. We worked very hard, and we didn’t focus on what we lost. We knew we had to rebuild, and we had to begin picking up the pieces, so that’s what we did.” She continued, “There’s good energy in McLean’s Town. We see life coming back, tourists are coming back to the area, and they love this Out Island feeling. We have everything in East Grand Bahama, we just need the world to know that we are open for business.” UA
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BAHAMIAN ROYALTY
THE QUEEN CONCH Tossing conch salad
“Scorched” (Bahamian vernacular) which means “to score” or scratch the surface of the conch which tenderizes the flesh, making it easier to eat.
Conch fritters
Crack conch served with a sauce by ‘Conch N’ Cone’
By Shavaughn Moss Photographs courtesy of L. Roscoe Dames II, Shavaughn Moss and Nikia Wells The beauty of the conch shell shines with its multiple shades of colour
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et’s get this pronunciation correct right out of the gate—it’s conch (konk)—not (konch) or some other variation. And conch is a sea snail—a rather delicious one that Bahamians love to eat, I might add. The scientific name is Strombus gigas. Whatever you call it, it’s a must-have. And we stand behind the statement that you will not find conch prepared more deliciously anywhere else than in the Bahama islands. Secondly, if you think you’re going to purchase a queen conch to try to remove the meat yourself, you have ‘two … maybe even three things coming’. It’s probably more difficult to remove a conch from its protective shell than it is to shuck an oyster. As much as we love eating conch, the average Bahamian can’t extract this much revered sea snail from its shell. We have to seek out the experts—people who have been trained in conch cracking—to do so, who can remove a conch from its protective shell faster than you can blink an eye. They have the technique ‘down pat’. To be able to remove the mollusc from its “fort”, they say the conch’s shell must first be cracked in a very specific place, then “jooked” (stabbed) under the conch to detach the mollusc from its shell. After that, the conch can be easily removed from its shell. When visiting the conch man, pull on your big boy trousers and ask for the pistol or piston, which Yellow, (a conch vendor), says is the conch’s spine, but which folklore deems is a natural aphrodisiac, which, upon consuming enough, acts like a natural Viagra. With all that said, make no mistake about it, the conch is a staple in Bahamian culture, with the status of a cultural symbol. It is akin to a national treasure. This mollusc is treasured. Its meat is a well-loved delicacy enjoyed in a variety of ways, so a visit to The Bahamas isn’t complete without a meal featuring conch. Popular food dishes include cracked conch—tenderized conch meat that is battered, breaded and deep fried to a golden perfection; conch fritters; conch chowder; conch salad—prepared raw with citrus juices and fresh vegetables; or scorched conch (technically scored, but you’re in The Bahamas; we will mess up a word and make it our own—so, if you want to stay true to the lingo, ask for it scorched) with a squeeze of citrus juice and the ubiquitous hot pepper; from there, the variations to the conch salad are numerous, including adding in fruits such as pineapple and mango which has become popular in recent times and referred to as a tropical salad. Dishes like stew conch are the ultimate comfort food and is traditionally served over grits or white rice; and grilled. A conch dish, in some variation or another, is found on the menu of any Bahamian restaurant including cracked conch on a burger. While the conch is a national treasure for Bahamians - conchs are native to the coasts of the Caribbean, the Florida Keys and Bermuda. But in The Bahamas, the queen conch is king. It’s a soft-bodied edible sea snail with an external spiral-shaped shell and a glossy pink or orange interior. Traditional crack conch
Traditional and creamy conch chowder Conch is also an important part of the marine food chain—juvenile conchs are eaten by crawfish, crabs, hermit crabs, sea snails, hogfish and queen triggerfish. Large conchs are eaten by sea turtles, octopus, stingrays and leopard rays. So, conch is enjoyed by more than just humans. In the quantities that conch has been consumed in The Bahamas, there is no surprise that overharvesting has taken place. Various researchers have concluded that the queen conch is locally depleted in The Bahamas. In the interest of conservation, the harvesting and possession of conch with a shell that does not possess a well-formed lip is prohibited. Able to live 20 years or more, adult queen conchs reproduce annually in spawning rituals where the females lay egg strands onto the sand. After up to two months drifting in the water, the larvae settle in shallow flats. Juvenile conchs remain buried in the sandy sea bottom for an entire year before they emerge. At three to four years of age, conchs are ready to reproduce. Once the queen conch reaches its maximal size, the shell begins to form a flaring lip, which is the clearest indication of it having reached adulthood. Lip thickness is important because when conchs are harvested too young, they would not have had a chance to reproduce and rebuild the population. After the consumption of its meat, the shell is versatile and perfect for repurposing, after a thorough cleaning. It then becomes a marvel to behold with a glossy pink or orange interior. And its shells are popular in jewellery making. Another by-product of the queen conch is the elusive pearl. Pretty and pastel-hued, most often pink in colour and normally oval-shaped, the finest examples display a wave-like “flame” structure on their surface and have a creamy, porcelain-like appearance and unique shimmer. A single, elusive conch pearl is found in every 10 to 15,000 shells, although less than 10 percent of them are gem quality, according to The Jewellery Editor. This, together with its unusual colour, makes the conch pearl extremely desirable. Excellent pearls can cost as much as $15,000 per carat, and more, but those are the exceptionally rare ones. Top-grade conch pearls are more typically around $4,000 to $7,000 per carat and nice, but not necessarily perfect pearls around $2,000 to $3,000. FYI (for your information), the mollusc itself has a mottled grey head with a large proboscis (like a nose or beak) and long eye stalks with eyes at the end. Beneath the shell is a strong foot with a “claw” like a pointed toenail. And they are either male or female, just like humans. The male has a black arm over his right eye. The female conch has a groove that runs down the right side of her foot. And it eats plants or algae. UA
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South Caicos Regattas By David Newlands Photographs courtesy of Agile Levin
Cockburn Harbour
Conch Boat Race
Conch Boat Racing
Conch Boat Fisherman’s Day
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Fisherman’s Day Race
Caicos Sloop - The Bight
Caicos Sloop - Blue Hills
hile some would argue that every island has its own, unique culture, many agree that there are a multitude of traits that we islanders share. No matter which island we call home, I believe that our affinity with the ocean that surrounds us is one of the most important aspects of our cultural identities. To those of us lucky enough to be from the islands, the ocean is more than a large body of water—it puts food on our plates, grants us our ideal climates, and provides vistas that inspire many artists, writers and other creative minds. Given our unique relationship with the sea, we have major celebrations and festivals in honour of it. These festivals, known as regattas, bring islanders together, uniting us through our shared bond with the ocean, and gives us the chance to express the importance of the link between island life and the waters that surround us. To those who are unfamiliar, a regatta is a sporting event that revolves around boat races, often accompanied by a festival on land with parades, pageants, live entertainment and much more. In the Turks and Caicos Islands (TCI), these are major events, and often span over multiple days. Regattas hold a special place in our hearts, as a cornerstone of island culture, as well as giving us the opportunity to reunite with old friends and make new ones. In the last week of May, boats in all shapes and sizes flock to the island of South Caicos to celebrate one of the country’s oldest festivals, the South Caicos Regatta. While far from the only regatta celebrated in TCI, it is the most significant, given its historical relevance. This iconic festival was created to commemorate the first royal visit from Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip, who came to TCI aboard the Royal Yacht, HMY Britannia, in 1966. Upon their departure, 30 sloops sailed with them as an unofficial honour guard to give them a grand send-off. One year later, in 1967, the South Caicos Regatta was held to honour this visit, and has been done every year since, earning its title as the oldest festival celebrated in the TCI. This year, May 27 - 28, for the first time since the beginning of the pandemic, many made the journey to South Caicos to partake in the festivities, including the crowning of Ms. Regatta—the winner of a much-anticipated beauty pageant, followed by a series of races both on land and sea, including the conch boat and sailboat races, as well as donkey races, which have been a staple of the event since the queen’s visit in 1966. Another major regatta event in TCI is the ‘Fools Regatta’; originally named after the date of the first event, which was on April Fool’s Day, 1990, when the Provo Sailing Club decided to hold a series of informal racing events for sailing enthusiasts. Both the Provo Sailing Club and the Fools Regatta have grown from their humble beginnings, becoming major cultural icons in TCI. These days, instead of being held on April 1 at Sapodilla Bay on Providenciales, the celebration now takes place on the shores of Grace Bay and changes its dates annually. This year’s Fools Regatta took place in late June, which gives readers the opportunity to experience the celebration first-hand next year. The Fools Regatta is seen as a close competitor in popularity with the South Caicos Regatta and, given its location on Providenciales, it is accessible to visitors and locals, alike, making it a major event. Since the world came to a standstill in 2019, due to the pandemic, many feared that these events would no longer be possible. However, given the high number of vaccinated individuals, and low number of cases in TCI, the hosts of these events have decided to try to keep the tradition alive – so, if you find yourself in TCI, try to attend one of these annual events and witness the celebration of the bond between islanders and the sea first-hand. UA
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If you’re a tropical nomad, conservationist, bird watcher, birder, nature lover, love national parks, looking for your next adventure or just want quiet time, visit the island of Inagua. It’s a hidden gem. But you’ll have to visit to hear the calls of the wild and experience the best kept secret in The Bahamas.
An Outback Paradise in the Deep South By Keesha Claudia Bethell Photographs courtesy of Elijah Sands, Patricia Vasquez and Heather Carey of the Bahamas National Trust
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AN OUTBACK PARADISE IN THE DEEP SOUTH ongoing ecological and biological evolutionary processes; contain natural phenomena that are rare, unique, superlative, or of outstanding beauty; or furnish habitats for rare or endangered animals or plants; or are sites of exceptional biodiversity. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) refers to the park as a “wetland ecosystem protected as a habitat that supports characteristic flora and fauna and as a resource of economic, cultural, scientific and recreational value”. The area is internationally recognized as a Key Biodiversity Area and is the only site in The Bahamas designated on the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance. The other park on Great Inagua is the Union Creek Reserve - a mangrove tidal creek and the site of a former sea turtle research facility. Union Creek includes 4,940 acres and is a natural habitat for green and hawksbill sea turtles. Mangroves surround the creek, and the bottom is covered in lush seagrass meadows. Little Inagua in its entirety is literally a park. In fact, it’s called the Little Inagua National Park. It’s said that Little Inagua is the “largest uninhabited island in the
Bahama Parrot
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n Inagua, you trade in the luxury hotels and casinos for guest houses and villas that bring to life the unique charm of a quaint village. Combine all things nature with authentic Bahamian hospitality and you have a one-of-a-kind eco experience. In this article, we’ll share how a 90-minute Bahamasair flight from Nassau to the southernmost island in the Bahama chain, will bring you face-to face with six unique eco experiences. You’ll get a sneak peek at why Inagua is the best kept secret in The Bahamas.
Secret 1: Two for one Inagua is made up of two islands: Great Inagua and Little Inagua. The population lives on Great Inagua—that’s where the capital—Matthew Town—is located. When you land in Matthew Town, you realize that you’re in the “Bahamian Outback”. Its somewhat arid appearance still supports plush nature attractions and varieties of wild animals roaming free; there’s a uniqueness in the air that gives you an inkling that fast-paced living has been left far behind you. Then, you exhale, close your eyes and inhale Mother Nature in all her splendour. Little Inagua is as quiet as it gets because it’s uninhabited and untrodden. It could give you an uninterrupted nature experience. Here’s the thing: the only way to get there is by boat, which can be quite a challenge. Why? Well, it’s that unexplored and still a mystery.
Secret 2: Inagua is home to Protected National Parks Great Inagua has two parks. The first is the Inagua National Park. The 287 square miles of raw, tropical island beauty is so unique that The Bahamas has submitted it for a UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Natural heritage sites are restricted to those natural areas that furnish outstanding examples of Earth’s record of life or its geologic processes; provide excellent examples of wider Caribbean”. The island exists in a natural, undisturbed state and the biodiversity implications and values of this island are enormous. Interesting stuff, right? Keep reading.
Secret 3: It’s a bird lover’s utopia
Burrowing Owl
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“For serious birders, it’s tough to beat Great Inagua”, that’s what Forbes Magazine had to say in an April 2022 article. To add to that, we’ll share some figures from Avi-base - The World Bird Database: “As of December 2021, its catalog listed 213 species and 4 introduced species. Can you imagine how many feathery friends you’ll make whether with a local expert bird guide or by a random encounter? You’ll cast your eyes on bird families of cormorants, egrets, pelicans, various species of warblers and songbirds. Other birds are the roseate spoonbill and burrowing owl.” Two things you won’t see anywhere else in the world, for sure, are the endemic Inagua sub-species of the Bahama parrot and the Inagua woodstar hummingbird. Correction—there are three things you’ll only find in Inagua: the endemic species
Wild Donkey
Bonsai Forest
and an almost immeasurable number of flamingos. The island is the site of the largest breeding colony of West Indian flamingos in the world. This national bird of The Bahamas now numbers more than 70,000 after a 40-year journey back from near extinction.
Secret 5: There is a natural Bonsai forest We know what you’re thinking - a Bon-what in where? No worries, we’ll explain. On the southern coast of Great Inagua, there are constant breezes of wind and salt which force trees, after growing to about four feet out of the ground, to bend over to grow downward where their canopies grow along the soil. Put that all together and you have a unique sight that you’ll have to discover for yourself and a natural Bonsai forest in The Bahamas.
Secret 6: There are White Mountains If you’re thinking the white in the mountains represent snow, you’re wrong. In Inagua, there are salt mountains. On Great Inagua, about a million pounds of salt is produced per year under the Morton Salt Company which covers 300,000 acres of the island. Inagua is perfect for salt production because the climate is mostly dry. The sun and wind provide the energy that evaporates the water and produces concentrated brine. Impurities are removed by controlled movement of the brine through reservoirs. That’s the Inagua-way of producing pure crystallized salt mountains.
Bonus: Salt Mountains
Reddish Egrets
Keep an eye out for cows, donkeys and boars roaming freely. They’re a little shy when it comes to guests on the island. You must be quiet, so you don’t scare them away. If you do get to see them, be sure to smile and whisper, “Hello, there. Bahamasair sent me.” And there you have it - six secrets of Inagua that you can share with friends and family. Those secrets only scratch the surface of what Inagua has to offer. To uncover the rest, you’ll have to go visit for yourself. UA
Inagua National Park
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PERFORMING ARTIST
Bodine Victoria Johnson
For this July-September 2022 issue of Up and Away, Caprice Spencer-Dames caught up with Bodine Victoria Johnson for an in-depth conversation about balancing entertaining, recording, socializing and entrepreneurship. Sit back, relax and enjoy their one-on-one conversation.
By Caprice Spencer-Dames Photographs courtesy of Ferrreno Ferguson, FTX Off The Grid and Bodine Victoria Johnson
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Duvalier or Eloise Louis, you’d probably hear how witty and sharp their lyrics were and, to me, that is very hip-hop. My single “Sugar in a Plum: Volume One” is a unique mix of Junkanoo, Afrobeat and hip-hop produced by Rik Carey. The entertainment industry is unforgiving, especially when you have to balance family life, work life, onstage life, studio work and just everyday life. How do you keep everything balanced and stay centred? Balancing is HARD, but it’s a matter of time, reality and passion. The number of hours one has in a day is finite, so I try not to bite off more than I can chew. Having worked as a teacher for almost 20 years, I also had to learn to leave work at work and pursue my dreams in my personal time. I take advantage of that, traveling to the Family Islands as often as I’m able and escaping into everything; diving in blue holes, taking in a regatta in Bimini, doing a hunting tour in Andros or parrot watching in Abaco. Even that turned into a job with our TV show on ZNS, “Fabulous Living, Bahamian Style”. Tell us a little bit about yourself. Where were you born and raised? I’m a city girl with roots in Exuma. I grew up on Balfour Avenue on the island of New Providence near my paternal grandmother in Pinedale and, later, my parents moved to Winton in the eastern part of the island. When I was old enough, I spent weekends with my grandmother, Mama Aggy, as she was called, helping sell cup, benne cake, tart and plates of food to neighbours. That’s the inspiration behind my YouTube channel, #BodinePot. I teach people the world over how to cook authentic Bahamian food step-by-step. Weekday afternoons were spent with my mom at Toya’s Typing and Computer School on Balfour Avenue, which is where I learned to type, computer skills and office procedures. Those free afternoons and holidays I spent with my cousins climbing trees or learning how to plait straw and decorate straw work with my Aunt Maud and my Grammy Zerline, who worked at the world famous Straw Market, are childhood treasures. My childhood had a lot happening. Some summers and holidays, we would take the mail boat and visit the family homes in Staniel Cay and Farmer’s Cay, Exuma. Before it was popular to swim with pigs, we caught fish on the rock using fishing lines, hooks and sinkers and ran around the backyard farm chasing chickens. If you didn’t grow up on an island, you would never understand. At what age did you begin singing, learning music and performing? Church and school actually played the largest role in this. Growing up in church, you had no choice but to learn how to sing. The Children’s Choir is an institution for any young entertainer. At school, I was part of poetry competitions, rap groups or any opportunities to showcase my budding skills in writing. I won song competitions and often had the opportunity to travel and perform. This is why I always say education has the biggest role to play in the Arts. I was with the vocal ensemble at L. W. Young High School in the late 1990’s in the music room learning my vocal scales and being part of the choir led by Sonovia “Novie” Pierre. As an entertainer, you are dynamic on stage. Tell us what the experience is like when you are performing in front of a live audience? Live performances give me so much energy. Part of being a great entertainer is ENGAGING an audience, so I try to read their energy and adjust according to that when necessary. I get so much joy when I see the nostalgia on the faces of men and women when I begin “Rocka My Cherry”. That one song has bridged the gap between generations of Bahamians by reintroducing a bit of our Afro-Bahamian heritage of ringplay in a new way. I have so many songs at this point. Another one of my absolute favourites is “All Day All Night”. That won me a fourth-place finish at the first Bahamas Junkanoo Carnival Music Masters competition.
Working in this industry requires long hours, so how does this impact your family life and what advice would you give other artists and professionals in this industry on how to balance it all? My friends and family understand. I try to show up for them in small and important ways and moments. When it comes down to it, that’s what really matters because at the start of my career, they sold the tickets, promoted me to co-workers and friends, defended my art, provided feedback and continue to support, share and purchase. I still have to show up for them. Tell us a bit about some of your other interests inside and outside of the entertainment industry, where is it now and what do you see in the future? I’ve found myself wanting to do more charitable work and use my influence to bring awareness to different causes. I’ve worked as the Bahamas Salvation Army ambassador for the past two years. To be honest, most of my experiences are still in the entertainment industry but sharing my travels and favourite moments as a domestic traveller is another joy of mine.
You have incorporated a few musical styles from rake-n-scrape, spoken word, R&B and a few in between. What musical style hits you to your core? Believe it or not, I’m a hip-hop artist at my core. When I write and perform rake-n-scrape music, or something calypso-inspired, or something soca-esque, you’d hear a bit of rap influence in the way the lines are delivered. If you listen to our Golden Age performers like Ronnie Butler, Count Bernadino, Maureen
A still of Johnson on her cooking show preparing pork chops
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BORN AND BREWED IN THE BAHAMAS DRINK RESPONSIBLY 18+
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PERFORMING ARTIST - BODINE VICTORIA JOHNSON In what way has the pandemic affected the way you approach your life, and your entrepreneurial and hosting ventures? The pandemic has really forced us into a space of realizing that stage shows cannot be the only way we earn money as entertainers. We’ve learned that we must actively seek licensing and placement of our music, secure brand deals, use the influence and the reach of our platforms to do what celebrities have been doing Stew Fish since forever. I started an entire show from the kitchen of my one-bedroom apartment during the pandemic. On #BodinePot, I teach food enthusiasts and Bahamians, who may have never learned how to make traditional Bahamian dishes, my way of making them, step-by-step. Some of my methods are unique and reflect the new skills, appliances and tools available to people the world over, but what is clear is that my way is ‘true-true Bahamian’. This showed me that my contribution to Bahamian culture goes beyond music and toward all aspects of Bahamian life. I can’t wait to launch the other projects I have.
Crab Gravy Base
What’s the latest in Bodine’s world? I recently had the opportunity to perform at FTX Off the Grid for the Formula One Race Weekend in South Florida, one of the largest venues I’ve performed at, to date, in terms of scale and impact. What was surreal for me was seeing the patrons run to the front of the stage when my music, unfamiliar to them, played and them interacting and eventually singing the words of my songs. I have to say thank you to Valdez K. Russell and the entire FTX team for the continued support and commitment to Bahamian culture and their investment in its promotion. I’m looking forward to the re-launch of #BodinePot for YouTube and mainstream television. New recipes are on the way. I have a NEW song produced by Rik Carey on the way called “Maintenance Fee”, I’m so excited for it! I’m also working with Calypso Don from Trinidad and Esby One of Burkina Fasso on a new release on the “Uber Love Riddim” as well. This year, my focus is on crossing continents even more than I’ve done in the past. Twenty-twenty-two is going to be the year of The Coconut Goddess! UA
FTX Off The Grid
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PRODUCING PASSION IN EXUMA
Ricardo Munroe All Things Bees Sanctuary In Exuma
Two Farmers Assist in Bahamas’ Fight for Food Security By Kendea Smith Photographs courtesy of Kendea Smith
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ith unforeseen circumstances threatening food security around the world, the government of The Bahamas is seeking to place more emphasis on food security throughout the archipelago. In Exuma, two farmers are looking to play their part in developing the agriculture sector on that island.
The Bee’s Knees is in Exuma Ricardo Munroe, proprietor of All things Bees Sanctuary, decided that he was going to assist by bringing foreign bees to the island in 2016. “The queen bees came from Hawaii and the worker bees came out of Savannah, Georgia. Exuma just didn’t have any honeybees and we wanted to see what the bees would do,” he said. “They were good for the farm. The bees also produce honey and beeswax and so it was just a perfect fit. When I was introduced to bees, it was like love at first sight.” “It was not about just the money for me. It was the passion for it and what it does for the environment, and it helps us to grow more food. I wanted to play my small part in helping to feed the country and give The Bahamas an excellent product.” What started as four beehives has now turned into hundreds across several properties. He also exports his products to New Providence. He explained that the honey from Exuma is different because of the environment. “All regions of The Bahamas would have a slightly different honey taste because of the vegetation growing in the immediate area of the bees. In Exuma, we have different tastes at different times of the year. In the early Onions part of the year, you would taste log wood. And in the winter, you can get a hint of coconut and coco plums,” Munroe said. Munroe is passionate about food on his 2.5-acre farm. He grows bell peppers, habanero peppers, onions, guavas, peas, basil, bananas and much more. He also has a small-layer hen coup that produces organic eggs. “When we look at what’s been happening in the world, it just makes sense to grow as much as you can,” Munroe said. “Going back 50 years, pretty much most families had a backyard farm or field with chickens, pigs and goats to feed themselves. They were eating healthy and living longer. So, growing chickens and all these other things make sense because it works and it’s proven,” Munroe said.
A swarm of bees
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PRODUCING PASSION IN EXUMA
Carrying on A Legacy
“The greenhouse has assisted me greatly in planting my microgreens. And I am so happy that many of the boaters and locals come and buy the products. I am also trying to find ways to use some of the items that I have been blessed with in other ways like by bottling tomatoes and making a way to use and sell the products.” Both Munroe and McKenzie say they are hoping more young people would become more interested in farming. While McKenzie is a senior farmer, he is dedicated to trying new techniques and has installed a greenhouse on his property to assist with food production. UA
Franklyn McKenzie of Triple E nursery and farm has also sought to assist with food security at his farm in Curtis, Exuma. He also has an array of crops like arugula, bananas, cabbages, cassava, carrots, kale, lettuce, okra, peas, sapodillas, tomatoes and much more. McKenzie said his inspiration came from watching his grandparents work on the land. “My grandparents cultivated the land, and my siblings and I had to take stones and bring back rocks and soil. My father said, ‘Do not let it go down.’ I listened to that because I know what farming means to me and to my country,” he said. “Farming is critical. You have to eat and once you have it available in your nation, you have a better chance of surviving than importing it from the outside,” he said. McKenzie said he has been working with his employee Albert for the last six years. “Each year, we have learnt something new. I take it seriously. Farming is dear to me and as long as I can do it, I will,” he said. Franklyn McKenzie of Triple E Nursery
Tomatoes
Corn Broccolli
Basil
Red Cabbage
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VISUAL ARTIST
Averia Wright
By Yolanda Hanna Photographs courtesy of Averia Wright and Jackson Petit
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Giant Anenome
veria Wright is a Bahamian interdisciplinary artist with a bold, brilliant and unique perspective. Her art is unapologetic. It transfixes your eyes, captures your mind and diverts your every thought to focus on the mystifying displays that will lock you into a gaze. Simply put, prepare yourself to be amazed, because you will stare, and stare, and stare, then you will begin to ask questions. For instance, you may ask: Why did Averia choose to walk from Bain Town to Bay Street, dressed in an Androsia print body suit with a straw belt cinched around her waist and her face covered by a straw mask with a raffia beard? Or you may ask: What is the symbolic meaning behind the Mixed Media Installation piece titled, “Elevating the Blue Light”? And how did she create bronzed-casted straw breastplates, using burlap, raffia and other textures? Wright stirs up conversation, provokes questions and challenges the mind. Trust me, she’s just that good. I had the privilege of diving into the mind of this fascinating artist, to learn what inspires her, what path did she travel to get where she is today, and would she do it all over again. What inspires your art and where do you ‘draw’ your inspiration to create? My inspiration is drawn from my family heritage. My mother, Carolyn Wright, my aunts and my grandmother are/were straw vendors; and my father is a contractor. They are all artists in their own right and my biggest inspiration.
the way we make ourselves more palatable to guests with the way we speak and negotiate to make a sale. So, in my work, I choose to address that ambivalence I had and I try to reimagine authenticity versus stereotypes.
You are an interdisciplinary artist. How do you use that art form to tell your stories?
I noticed you use elements of Bahamian culture in your artwork like straw and Androsia. I thought that was fascinating! Is Bahamian culture the focus or theme in your work? And are you inspired by other cultures?
As a child, I worked alongside my mother in the straw market and I learned every trick of the trade. But I had an issue with the way we transact with tourists,
My work navigates all aspects of Bahamian life through the use of cultural material. I think it’s best when making commentary, social or otherwise, to use the medium
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You have had quite a journey. If you had to do it all again, would you do anything differently? No, I wouldn’t change any part of my journey. When I came home with my bachelor’s degree from the University of Tampa, I had hoped to go back to get my master’s within one or two years. But spending the four years at NAGB allowed me to enrich my perspectives and develop my voice. These things are what built my portfolio to become the 2015 LCF Harry C. Moore scholar. I have become increasingly aware of Bahamian female artists in the country; I like what I’m seeing. Are you aware of other female artists in The Bahamas?
Giant Anenome II of the space. It helps the viewer to pick up the cues and engages their own perspectives on those issues. We are within the Afro-Caribbean region, so I may use materials that either consciously or subconsciously reflect the region and our African heritage
Bahamian women artists are shining bright right now in The Bahamas and internationally. Artists like April Bey, Gio Swaby, Anina Major, Cydne Coleby are making their voices heard and doing great things. I had the pleasure of curating the first Bahamian woman to show a mid-career survey exhibition in the full gallery at the National Art Gallery of Bahamas—“Kendra Frorup: The Whimsical Collector”, will be up for a few more months. You should check it out.
What led you to your decision to become a full-time professional artist? In 2003, the National Art Gallery of The Bahamas (NAGB) opened, and it was so eye-opening for me, as a high school student at that time, that there was a place for art to live. I attended The College of The Bahamas (now University of The Bahamas) after I graduated from high school, and all my art professors were professional, practicing artists whose work was shown in that space. That made me realize that art as a profession was an option. That’s when I decided that this was what I wanted. However, I must mention that my practice as a curator started at the NAGB as well and I am currently the curatorial manager at The Current Baha Mar Gallery and Art Center. That’s amazing! Were you full-time immediately after college or did you transition over a period of time? Well, I started out as a part-time sales representative at Doongalik Studios Art Gallery in Marina Village because I really wanted to become a part of the Bahamian art community. Being employed there allowed me to work alongside artists and cultural ambassadors Jackson [Petit] and Pam Burnside and artist Toby Lunn. I volunteered at the NAGB and then I joined their curatorial team under Dr. Erica James. I started out as a curatorial trainee and when I left the NAGB to get my master’s in sculpture and expanded practice, I was the assistant curator and registrar.
The-Straw-Paradox Congratulations to Kendra; that’s a wonderful accomplishment! In your opinion, do you think the art community is disconnected or are we as a society simply not doing enough to support Bahamian art? I don’t think the art community is disconnected. I believe the value our culture places on art is not as high as it should be. The galleries and institutions in The Bahamas are putting in the work, but if we as a society do not realize its value, then that’s where we are falling behind. Going to the gallery or the museum should be a normal occurrence just like going to the beach on a holiday.
The-Straw-Paradox If you had to create a piece of art to tell the story of your life, what materials would you use and what would you call it? If I had an endless budget, I would work with bronze, straw, wood, stainless steel and aluminum for an outdoor sculpture installation. It would be called “You set your basket so high, you need two sticks to reach it” (smile). I would purchase that sculpture (laughs). Tell me, if you could have dinner with anybody (artist or non-artist) living or dead, who would it be? And what dish would you cook? I would have dinner with my mum. Yes, we have dinner together regularly, but I have gained most of my knowledge from her. She often thought I wasn’t listening to her when I was a child but I often drop her golden nuggets right back at her (laughs). I don’t cook often but I would probably cook chicken souse with Johnny bread. UA
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CONTRIBUTORS MRS. CAPRICE SPENCER-DAMES, an administrative professional, has spent the majority of her career in the airline, retail and hospitality industries at various management levels. Her career and personal life has afforded her the opportunity to spend a significant amount of time living and traveling throughout our Family Islands, the Caribbean and the Americas. With a keen interest in culture, cuisine and people, she brings her experience to the various features and production of the publication.
MRS. SHAVAUGHN MOSS is the lifestyles editor at The Nassau Guardian 1844 Ltd., The Bahamas’ oldest newspaper, and has three-plus decades of experience. She currently writes on a wide range of topics. She is known as the country’s premiere “foodie” and has traveled extensively in her culinary quest for the best bites (and some interesting ones as well). Shavaughn studied Mass Communication in the United States, and has done advanced courses in the United Kingdom as well.
MS. KENDEA SMITH is a Communications Expert, who specializes in travel articles. She holds an Associate’s Degree in Journalism and Mass Communications, a Bachelors of Arts Degree in Writing and a Masters Degree in Strategic Communications, which includes Marketing, Public Relations and Social Media. She is married and the proud mother of two daughters.
MS. YOLANDA HANNA is a Radio Personality, Publicist, Writer and Social Media Content Creator living in the beautiful Bahamas. A ferocious advocate for the promotion of Bahamian Music, Art and Culture, she is a “Grand Bahama Baby” who is passionate about telling the stories of the Bahamian people. “I don’t just fly here, I live here.”
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MS. KEESHA CLAUDIA BETHELL is a new-age writer, creative and award-winning Journalist who has her finger on the pulse in many areas of interest including mainstream news reporting and production, television/internet program production and travel, Spanish, leisure and culinary writing—not to mention social media.
CONTRIBUTORS MS. NASIA R. COLEBOOKE is a copy editor, playwright and writer, who loves to tell the stories of those who often go unheard. She has a blog where she writes film, TV, music and book reviews, and personal pieces. She is also well-versed in public relations and holds a B.A. in English (minor in History) from University of The Bahamas, and is currently pursuing a master’s in journalism.
MS. NIKIA WELLS is an avid traveler with a passion for seeing the world, learning about new cultures, trying unique dishes and raising awareness about the freedoms of solo travel. In 2014, this Grand Bahama native created the PinkSands242 website, which is devoted to spreading her passion for travel, food and new experiences from a Bahamian perspective, while demystifying various elements of world travel. Her writings have been featured on www.bahamas.com and several other local publications.
MS. BIANCA MAJOR is the editor of The Long Island Runner News and is an avid promoter of The “real” Bahamas, its culture and all things Bahamian. Her diversity spans across professional fields such as Publishing, Marketing & Graphics, Social Media Content Creation & Management, Photography, and Marketing. Bianca the “artist”, “foodie” and radio personality has more than two decades of experience and has a passion for writing. Raised between The United States and The Bahamas she has a unique concept of our culture.
MS. ALEXANDRA ‘BAHAYOGI’ KAUFMANN is a lover of all things yoga, wellness, and life. Along her yoga journey, she has practiced and studied Power, Baptiste, Hot, Restorative, Rocket, and Vinyasa Flow Yoga. She has completed over 500 hours of yoga teacher training with world-renowned instructors. Her passion for teaching has attracted celebrity clients like Nicole Kidman, Reese Witherspoon, and Jennifer Lawrence.
MR. DAVID NEWLANDS is a native of the Turks and Caicos Islands with an extensive background in media and publication. Currently working in the field of business administration he has never left his passion for writing. With a keen interest in travelling and culture, he reveals the hidden cultural gems of his country to those who share a similar passion.
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Salt Box Photograph Courtesy of Damianos Sotherby’s International Realty