The True Flavour of The Bahamas is its Down-Home Cuisine

By Shavaughn Moss

Photographs Courtesy of Shavaughn Moss and L.

Bahamians are born with the ability to “flavour” food. It is in our DNA, but even that innate ability had to be honed. And in most instances, that training began early under the guidance of great-grandmothers, grandmothers, mothers, and “aunties” talking us through how to make a dish with a dash of this and sprinkle of that, and absolutely no measurements. It is cooking with heart, to produce food that is hearty and will make the taste buds sing. So, when looking for a true-true (in the Bahamian vernacular) down-home experience, you will have to travel throughout the archipelago to seek out these culinary delights and Bahamians who have these cooking techniques down pat.

Before the advent of the “grocery store,” the Bahamian eating existence was a “from the field to the pot” diet. Food was harvested straight out of the field, in what has become popularized today as backyard farming, put in a pot and cooked over an outdoor fire. Making use of collected rainwater to cook tough cuts of meat like mutton and lamb, dried peas, beans, and lentils, to aid in the breaking down process was not unheard of.

Today, while the true flavour that is Bahamian cooking and cuisine remains, the essence that is our ancestors’ contribution to Bahamian cuisine has changed for any number of reasons, whether it be lack of exposure to the old ways, or a more modern take on preparation.

At the same token, a movement has been afoot by many Bahamians eager to return to, retain, and reintroduce the essence of the true-true down-home Bahamian cooking. Truth be told, some people swear by the outdoor kitchen method of cooking, including university culinary professor, chef Addiemae Farrington.

“I go to the old people who have outdoor kitchens and eat from them,” she said, even though she is a classically trained culinarian.

So, if you happen upon a Bahamian with access to an outdoor kitchen, which you will more than likely find in the Family Islands, finagle an invitation to that meal, because the memory of the food you will eat is one that will linger for a long time.

Roscoe Dames II

So much so that even in the capital of New Providence, you will find one or two outdoor ovens constructed from which, time to time, you can find a culinary exhibition taking place to introduce younger generations to the ways of old, during festivals.

Bahamian food is an amazing display of resourcefulness and a display of the country’s diverse food culture. It speaks to the soul and flavour of the Bahamian islands.

The true flavours of The Bahamas are complex, yet simple, unpretentious, and no-nonsense, yet hearty and filling. We are talking about the foods that you are going to have to follow a native to their favourite hole in the wall to have or be invited into someone’s home to enjoy. Chatting up a local about these down-home one-of-a-kind amazing eating experiences is the best way to go, to dine on true Bahamian cuisine.

To understand Bahamian food, one must first have at least an understanding of the layers to the cuisine, and the fact that it is an amalgamation and mash-up of heritages – with strong influences from the African slave diaspora, English colonization, proximity to the United States and the Caribbean – coming together.

When looking for your taste of true-true Bahamian cuisine, you are going to want to snag soups, stews and souses – peas soup and dumplings, conch chowder, okra soup, hull bean (a wild white bean soup which is popular on Andros and to which they add pig parts like ears and the tail with salt beef and coconut milk, according to the chef); stews – stew fish and stew conch; souses run the gamut of proteins – chicken, sheep tongue, ribs, conch, pig’s feet … you name the protein and you can probably find it prepared souse style.

If you want to venture outside of soups, stews, and souses, you have just as many other options since we are surrounded by water, which means Bahamians have perfected the art of seafood. And you will have to at least once enjoy a fried snapper seasoned simply with goat pepper, salt, and lime, served alongside a mound of savoury peas ‘n’ grits. It is a must-have true Bahamian meal.

While many places find land crabs to be absolute nuisances, ever-resourceful Bahamians sought to turn the crustaceans into delectable meals. A meal of Caribbean land crab is a must in its many preparations. Whether it be sweet land crab meat tossed with seasonings and breadcrumbs, stuffed into crab shells, and baked to golden perfection or a savoury crab ‘n’ rice or peas ‘n’ grits preparation as opposed to peas ‘n’ rice or peas ‘n’ grits, the options are limitless – conch ‘n’ rice, conch ‘n’ grits.

Boiled land crab ‘n’ dough, which is not a fancy dish by any stretch of the imagination, is a down-home seasonal dish that you are going to have to source out from someone’s house or their favourite down-home hole in the wall, because you would not find boiled crab ‘n’ dough on many, if any, restaurant menus. No self-respecting Bahamian would be caught dead eating boiled crab ‘n’ dough in a “fancy” restaurant because it is one of those dishes that you want to be able to enjoy at your leisure with the least disturbance, because when you sit down to eat crab ‘n’ dough – table etiquette is set aside. (And of course, you must let a Bahamian show you the intricacies of enjoying boiled crab ‘n’ dough.)

The fact that crabs are a seasonal delicacy is also what makes them so special. (Land crabs “walk” or appear and are harvested in late May early June through the first and second week in November.)

The food of the gods for most Bahamians is the almighty crawfish (spiny lobster) which can be had many ways – roasted or steamed whole, minced (“steamed” in Bahamian vernacular), and it must be served alongside sides of rice, coleslaw, and plantain. This dish features the sweet, luscious meat of the crustacean sautéed with herbs and tomato paste, which makes for an unbelievably delicious savoury meal.

Unlike boiled crab ‘n’ dough, this is one of those native dishes that you can walk into just about any local restaurant and find on the menu. At the height of crawfish season (March 31 through August 1), and with fresh crawfish to be found everywhere, this is a meal to be enjoyed now.

Back on land, Long Island is known for its mutton, so, of course, tender, flavourful, and aromatic curry mutton is to be found everywhere, paired with rice of choice and a side of coleslaw.

Conch, whether served simply with herbs and vegetables in a citrus base, can be stewed, steamed, or cracked (battered and fried).

And while the world over produces macaroni ‘n’ cheese in some form, the Bahamian version of baked macaroni ‘n’ cheese is not to be missed.

Then, there is boiled fish made with grouper and served with grits or Johnny cake – the list of true Bahamian food is never-ending experiences to be enjoyed.

Of course, dessert cannot be forgotten. Ask any Bahamian for a sweet ending and they will direct you to the “king” of desserts, the guava duff – boiled dough chockful of guava and topped with a hard sauce, with a little rum whipped in for added pleasure. In years gone by, making guava duff was an all-day family affair. Tree-ripened guavas were picked off the tree in the yard, peeled, cut in half and the flesh separated from the meat. The guava meat was chopped, the seeds boiled, and the duff (dough) kneaded and boiled in a white pillowcase that is never used for anything other than the boiled guava duff.

While the duff bubbles away merrily stovetop, the sauce, comprised of butter, sugar, vanilla flavour and a little (tongue-in-cheek) rum of choice, is made. This is another one of those foods that when family and friends hear is being made, they are knocking at your door with their bowl.

A delightfully savoury yet sweet coconut tart as well as pineapple tart is not to be missed, at all, with the tarts made by people who grew pineapples on Eleuthera being touted as the best to be had nationwide. But reaching into the annals of ancestry, even Bahamians of today are being reintroduced to – and some have never had the pleasure of enjoying a coconut Jimmy which is essentially sweetened dough with coconut. So, while traveling through the islands, seek out this sinfully unpretentious dessert – it just may become an all-time favourite.

Taking the time to indulge in Bahamian cuisine offers a great way to gain an understanding of The Bahamas and being open to trying local cuisine can also be a fun and enjoyable way to explore. Food is an integral part of the travel experience and trying new and exciting dishes can add an extra layer of excitement. It is also a great way to make even better memories. As well as enhancing your overall travel experience, it can open you up to new opportunities to connect with people and explore. UA