ROSE & IVY Journal Danish Delight Exploring Copenhagen

Reflections on an unforgettable trip to Copenhagen. Plus, where to dine and shop in style.

Iarrived in Copenhagen on a sunny October day, just as the leaves were beginning to turn. To say I was eager to explore a city that has been on the top of my travel list for quite some time is an understatement; I couldn't wait to experience the uber-cool design, fashion and cuisine of the so-called "happiest country on earth." My guide is Kathrine Simonsen, the media relations liaison for Visit Denmark and a local who knows the city like the back of her hand. Kathrine knows exactly where to go to enjoy the cinnamon sweetness of the best kanelsnurrer in town or where to find the newest 'it' place for a pre-dinner cocktail.

As we set out for a day of exploring, she explains that Copenhagen is a biking city. I'm thinking, well, so is New York, but as we exit the hotel and turn right onto Hans Christian Andersens Boulevard, just after 10 a.m. on a Thursday morning, a drove of cyclists rushes towards us. Rider after rider, some with young children in tow, others with dogs, speed past as if on a mission, and just like Manhattan during rush hour, you know to steer clear. Here's an interesting fact: an impressive 41% of the population commute to work or school by bike, but what's even more remarkable is that, among the clusters of bikes leaning against rails or buildings, not one has a lock. Not long into our walking tour, we spot none other than Lars Løkke Rasmussen, the Prime Minister of Denmark, standing outside the Parliament building. He is adjusting his tie using the reflection from his car window, with only minimal security surrounding him. Glimpsing something like that, I'm immediately filled with a sense of comfort, knowing that Copenhagen is not only regarded as a safe city, but it is also a place that operates largely on a system of trust and respect, and a general feeling of tranquility and security prevails within its borders.

So what is it about this country that has consistently earned it the title of "happiest place on earth?" I keep my eyes and ears open to see what I can discover. The city dates all the way back to the eleventh century. It is a charmingly beautiful place, with a wealth of noteworthy architecture from the Renaissance and Rococo periods, intermingled with a newer crop of buildings that showcase modern Danish design. Wandering the streets, you pass paprika-hued façades that look as though they've been hastily colored with a crayon; vines of fragrant purple wisteria wind their way up the sides of buildings; and wooden fishing boats along the sleepy Nyhavn Canal gently rock with the subtle current.

If there is one common thread linking the many stores and restaurants we visit, it's that each one inspires a similar feeling, a sense of warmth that draws you in and makes you want to linger, whether it is the inviting flicker of a candle, a woolen blanket waiting at the ready if you're dining alfresco and the temperature dips, or the uniquely textured ceramics that make each dining experience a memorable one. As night begins to fall, the street lamps emit a soft glow onto the streets. Perhaps I am experiencing hygge, the Danish word that translates to “coziness and comfortable conviviality," a concept that has been gaining ground elsewhere in the world, thanks to popular books like The Little Book of Hygge: Danish Secrets to Happy Living by Weik Wiking, among other titles dedicated to this topic.

When visiting a new place, it can be hard to decide where to spend your time, especially in a dynamic city like Copenhagen, but here are a few notto-be-missed highlights.

The majority of attractions can be easily accessed by purchasing the Copenhagen Card, which grants access to several points of interest. Prices start at around 390 Danish krone (the Euro is not used in Denmark), depending on the length of your visit. If you have an admiration for manicured

landscapes, head to the Rosenborg Castle Gardens, a leafy idyll situated in the center of town, bordered by immaculate row houses. Inside its gates, verdant lawns and an enchanting rose garden lined with boxwood surround the splendid 17th-century castle built for Christian IV of Denmark. Tall trees create allées throughout the gardens, perfect for wandering or picnicking on warm days. Slightly farther afield is the University of Copenhagen Botanical Garden, home to 27 glasshouses dating from 1874, including the main conservatory, which features an ornate cast-iron spiral staircase. Set on ten sprawling acres, it's an ideal place to revel in the wonders of nature (within the city limits, of course). For a memorable look at the city skyline, visit the Rundetaarn, or Round Tower, the oldest working observatory in Europe. To enjoy the impressive view, you must first make your way by foot up the winding corridors to the top—well worth the effort, if only for the bewitching way the light illuminates the passageway.

Since Copenhagen is only 34 square miles, it's easy to explore the various neighborhoods by foot, including the charming Christianshavn, which is distinguished by colorful homes, narrow canals and cobblestoned streets, or the trendy Nørrebro district, brimming with stylish shops and cafés. While there's no shortage of places to shop, be sure to stroll through Strøget, Europe's longest pedestrian-only shopping street, which is lined with both expensive and budget-friendly fashion, lifestyle and interior design stores, including Hay and the Ferm Living showroom (by appointment only)—both stock colorful Scandinavian homewares (for further suggestions, see Where to Shop).

Toward the end of my visit, cooler temperatures begin to descend upon the city, and billowy grey-tinged clouds hover overhead, occasionally giving way to sudden bursts of rainfall. Despite the changing weather, something the Danes seem to accept without complaint even when biking, I can't help but feel an overwhelming sense of warmth and contentment inside. Even though I've only been here for four days, everything—from the inventive and flavorful multi-course meals that seem to flow seamlessly from one into another, to the thoughtful design on display everywhere I look—everything makes me feel connected to this welcoming city. There is something exceptional about a place whose culture is centered on something as intangible as a feeling. It may not always be intentional, but it's there nonetheless, heightening nearly every experience you'll have during your visit. There is a new Danish buzzword that is gaining popularity even outside the realm of Denmark: lagom, which means “not too little, not too much, just right"—in a word, harmony. That's really the perfect way to sum up this extraordinary city.