Behind the Brand | Get to Know Flagpole

FLAGPOLE

Designer Details with JAIME BARKER AND MEGAN BALCH

Every so often in life, if you are fortunate enough, you come across a kindred spirit who becomes a best friend. That was the case for fashion designers Jaime Barker and Megan Balch, founders of the New York-based swimwear label Flagpole. From their early days in middle school, when they used to do each other’s homework, to their post-college years as Brooklyn roommates, the two have been virtually inseparable, so it’s no surprise that they decided to go into business together. We sat down to chat with this dynamic duo about what it’s like to work with your bestie, the importance of color in their collections, and what it takes to succeed in the fashion world.

You two have been friends for quite some time. Whatis your first memory of each other?

JAIME We both went to the same middle school, where we had majors like theater and dance. I remember sitting next to Megan in science class, because we both had names that started with the letter B. Our teacher had us do an icebreaker, we paired up and presented to each other— we were ridiculous from day one (laughs). Within the first few weeks of knowing each other, we were planning our outfits and dressing the same by accident.

MEGAN I have a very specific memory—we were talking to the same person and Jamie was carrying too many things and she didn’t know what to do with them (laughs). I offered to hold something for her and that was our first actual interaction.

Did it ever cross your young minds that someday you would start a successful fashion company together?

JAIME It was never really like, “Oh, we are going to own a fashion company together one day.” I don’t think that was ever the plan. We just worked so well together from the start, from picking out outfits to writing poems for a boy in our class. There was an instant connection

between us; we had fun on a different level and were always thinking about the next thing we were going to do together.

MEGAN I think the plan was to be in each other’s life. We ended up going to different colleges, but we still talked a couple times a day. We would even still do each other’s homework!

What led to you starting your brand, and what drew you to swimwear in particular?

JAIME Back in 2011, I was actually working in the same factory where we produce our swimwear—it’s crazy how things have come full circle. I was working for a startup where I learned about design, production and that whole world. I met a woman who designed bathing suits; she was securing a lot of accounts like Anthropologie and Neiman Marcus. I thought to myself that is so cool, then I slowly started putting the pieces together. I thought about how I wouldn’t personally wear that particular swimsuit and then asked myself, well, what would I wear? I started daydreaming about what it could be—solid colors and cutouts, something that didn’t exist. I started thinking about how the suits should be made out of leotards, since you can dance and move in them so easily. It was a total Oprah

Photographed by Sharon Radisch Fashion Editor Ana Tess Interview by Alison Engstrom

14

MARKET STUDY STYLE NOTES

15ROSE & IVY JOURNAL

MARKET STUDY STYLE NOTES

“aha!” moment. I remember slipping away into the stairwell to call Megan. We both knew that this was it. I went into autopilot and knew what I had to do to make this happen.

MEGAN I was in my last year at NYU when I got the call from Jaime about the idea. I remember my notebooks quickly went from school notes to swimwear sketches.

How did you come up with the brand’s name, Flagpole?

JAIME It is technically the name of the beach we grew up by in West Palm Beach, Florida. The locals called it Flagpole Beach. When we were thinking of a name, the first thing we wrote down was Flagpole. We knew we wanted to create a lifestyle brand and it had to make sense for the long run. We wanted the flexibility to be able to move into additional categories seamlessly.

MEGAN Adding to Jaime’s point, we knew at the beginning that we wanted to eventually do men’s swimwear too, so the name had to work for men, too.

When did you realize that you were on to something?

MEGAN For our first season, we had a lot of great meetings but it wasn’t until our second season that

16

right ONE-PIECE ALI IN ROSÉ/TANGERINE available at flagpolenyc.com

KAREN WALKER DEEP WORSHIP SUNGLASSES IN ECRU

available at revolve.com

featured throughout TWO-PIECE CASEY TOP IN ROSE AND JACKIE BOTTOMS IN TANGERINE available at flagpolenyc.com

STILL HOUSE RIVA RING, URA BANGLE AND ARBA BANGLE

available at stillhousenyc.com

CLYDE STRAW HAT

available at garmentory.com

KAREN WALKER SUPER DUPER STRENGTH SUNGLASSES IN TAN

available at saksfifthavenue.com

things started moving. Most retailers don’t want to pick you up initially because they need to ensure you can actually produce the pieces and deliver on time. We were very lucky to have boutiques from the get-go that were patient with us. When our second collection was bought by Barney’s and Net-a-Porter, we needed an investor. We turned our living room into an office and worked around the clock to develop a business plan, which involved a ton of research, tears and a few meltdowns, but we did it (laughs). You realize that the fun, glamorous side of running a fashion business ends up being a small percentage of what you are actually doing. A big part of having a business is figuring out what you need to figure out, when you need to figure it out. There aren’t any shortcuts to success.

JAIME As we put the collection together, we realized that it had a purpose and things started to fall into place. We wanted it to be functional and had an inclination to design one-piece and high-waisted two-piece suits. The buyers initially told us that women were not wearing this type of look and that they wouldn’t sell. We didn’t know how to respond or what to think.

17ROSE & IVY JOURNAL

MARKET STUDY STYLE NOTES

We felt so sure that this was what women wanted, so we didn’t give up.

How important was it to you to make it in New York City?

JAIME The Garment District here in New York is an ecosystem and must be sustained because when we grow, they grow. It was important, but it was more to the point that we only knew how to make things here. There are so many times when we need to be on-site in 30 minutes; we have been able to fix many problems because we are so close. Our design process is very intimate; we work side by side with everyone from our patternmaker, Lynn, whom we named a suit after, to our seamstresses to perfect a certain type of stitch.

MEGAN At this point, we have learned so much that we could produce overseas, but we have worked too hard and giving that up just doesn’t make sense. Bathing suits aren’t forgiving so they need to be as perfect as possible since they are going to be worn on all different types of bodies. What is your usual design process?

JAIME We always start with color. It’s emotional and where it all begins. We can spend hours, days, sometimes even weeks putting this together.

MEGAN The colors really set the tone for everything that is coming afterwards—it has to be a color palette that we feel good looking at.

Tell us about your spring and summer collection.

JAIME I found a photo that had a ’60s vibe and was drawn to the combination of bold white lines paired with bright accent colors. Up until this collection, we hadn’t explored this type of color palette. So we challenged ourselves to make fun, colorful yet sophisticated pieces. If there is one commonality with each collection, there is always a retro thread woven throughout. When it comes to inspiration, I try not to look at swimwear. We want to be on trend, but we never ask what the colors of the season are or what the latest trends will be.

MEGAN Colors have such an interesting relationship with each other. There are so

many times when we will show someone a color and their reaction is different than ours. Each season, we keep a lot of the same silhouettes since women usually pick one and stick to what works, but throughout the year, we try to have an evolution of color offerings.

What would you say is the most important thing to consider if someone is thinking about going into business with a friend?

JAIME I feel like more often than not, people will tell us they want a business partner. But the thing is that you cannot force this because it will not work. When we were living together, we felt like we were married with a baby and weren’t ready for all of that (laughs). At this point, we know each other so well and are on the same wavelength, but

18

communication is key. It is about being vulnerable and open to criticism. Being on the same page all of the time isn’t realistic. I just keep in mind that we are working towards the same goal—we want our women to look a certain way.

MEGAN We have been collaborating on everything from homework to different projects for a very long time. We have a really good understanding of each other’s strengths, but when it comes right down to it, respect is the most important thing. We keep in mind that we have the same goal of putting out the best product possible. While we might not always agree, ideally, the best of both ideas is going to come together and make an even better idea, which pushes us to go farther.

What have you learned about yourselves through each other?

MEGAN I have taken on a role at the company which is more managerial, and that has changed me in some really positive ways. There are a lot Jamie’s characteristics that I have leaned on for certain things, like how to handle certain things more gracefully and not be as critical of myself and other people. She has an easy, positive energy—she’s like the cartoon where the house is on fire and she’s like “everything is fine!”

JAIME I would say that I’m the exact opposite. I am nice to a fault and that is a hard thing to be when you are a business owner. I am not as good at being assertive and standing my ground, and Megan is really good at that.

Follow ROSE & IVY on Instagram for a behind-the-sceneslook at how Flagpole pieces are made.

To learn more, visit flagpolenyc.com

Starring Kayla Clark at MARILYN AGENCY Hair and Makeup James Milligan Stylist Assistant Viktoriia Shestakova Lighting Jeff Solomon

19ROSE & IVY JOURNAL