GCSE Textiles Revision

GCSE TEXTILES Revision Guide This guide has been broken down into 8 sec=ons, the number of ques=ons on the WJEC exam – but please remember that there will be crossovers between the ‘sec=ons’. It is a combina=on of revision and past exam paper ques=ons. This will be constantly up-­‐dated so please check back every so oMen.

Finally, Good Luck! Mrs Shillito 2011

Ques=on 1: PRODUCT ANALYSIS product analysis-­‐sizes, dimensions, safety, target market etc., produc=on process-­‐difference between batch/mass graph reading

Analysing products

Analysing a tex=les product involves asking the following three ques=ons:

is it fit for purpose? does it meet the needs of the target market? how well is it designed and made?

Answering the three ques=ons above will normally involve an evalua=on of the following criteria:

the product's design specifica=on. Does the product measure up to it? the product's target market. What are their needs? the product's performance -­‐ ie, how suitable it is for its end-­‐use, and what its aMercare requirements are the quality of the fibres, fabrics and manufacture. For example, how adequate are the s=tchings, fastenings and seam allowance? the product's aesthe=c appeal or stylis=c quali=es the product's price. Does it give value for money? any safety or moral issues there might be. Does the product conform to safety regula=ons?

What is its impact on the environment?

Quality of design and manufacture

Among the most important design evalua=on criteria are those of quality of design and quality of manufacture. These are not the same thing:

Quality of design refers to how acrac=ve a product is to its target market, how well chosen its materials and components are, and how easy the product is to manufacture and mantain.

Quality of manufacture has a more specific meaning. Well-­‐made tex=le products (ones with a high quality of manufacture) will have the following characteris=cs:

they use materials that are suitable for the end-­‐use they match the product specifica=ons they meet performance requirements they are manufactured by safe produc=on methods they are made within budget limits they sell at an acrac=ve price, and they are safe for the environment

This backpack has a brightly printed design on the front. The fastening details have are shown in pink colour.

Product informa=on:

The material for the bag is made of 100% recycled PET fabric It has adjustable shoulder straps It has one zipped compartment The dimenaions are: 50cms x 32cms x 23cms There are mesh pockets either side A bungee storage system can be found on the front Retail price: £45

a) State one reason why PET fabric has been used b) Describe what you think are the most imprtant specifica=on points for each of the follow aspects: (2 marks each) i) The target market ii) The aesthic appeal of the bag III) The size/dimensions of the bag c) Descirbe the safety considera=ons for the user that might have been taken into considera=on (3 marks)

Sales of Backpack

d) Which is the least popular design of bag? (1 mark) ii) Calculate the average sales of the most popular design of bag over the three month period (2marks)

Ques=on 2: SUSTAINABILITY & LEGISLATIVE ISSUES mass produc=on, sustainability, recycling, legisla=on

There will ALWAYS be ques=ons based around ECO/SUSTAINABLE issues

a) Indicate the word which best represents each of the following statements: (3)

i)

ii)

iii)

b) Explain the meaning behind the European Eco label (2)

c) The designer ouoit makes use of recycling. i)Explain why the design of this ouoit is help to the environment (2) ii) Explain what sustainable design means. (3)

Ques=on 3: OTHER DESIGNERS/PRACITIONERS Vivienne Westwood

Whos work is this?

John Galliano or Vivienne Westwood? (1)

Who was the first Bri=sh designer to lead a French haute couture house? (1)

Ques=on 4: DEVELOPING, PLANNING & COMMUNICATING IDEAS design process, (ordering it), specifica=on points, plan for making/flow chart, design ques=on

PRESENTING DESIGN IDEAS

Designers present their ideas for new collec=ons in various ways: Catwalk shows – good for presen=ng designs in a high profile way with a lot of media acen=on. Designs are shown to prospec=ve purchasers so this is a good way to encourage trade.

Story boards – Ideas are presented in 2D form usually with fabric swatches and detailed drawings. This is a rela=vely low cost way of showing designs and allows a poten=al manufacturer to gain a clear picture of the final garment but also the detail which allows him/her to assess probable cost.

CAD Computer aided design. You might use programmes such as Photoshop, 2D Design, Speedstep, Corel Draw, Paint etc. These programmes enable you to draw, edit and display your designs.

COLOUR THEORY

The three primary colours are Red, Yellow and Blue.

The three secondary colours are Green, Orange and Purple.

Complementary colours are opposite each other on the colour circle, Red is opposite Green, Blue is opposite Orange and Yellow is opposite Purple.

Harmonious colours are next to each other on the colour circle e.g.

Yellow would be harmonious with orangey yellow, orange and reddish orange, greeny blue would be harmonious with green and yellowish green.

A Dnt of a colour is made by adding white.

A shade of a colour is made by adding black.

Ques=on 5: COMMERCIAL MANUFACTURING PRACTICES industrial prac=ces, different names for high/low end fashion, machinery

PRODUCTION SYSTEMS

Cell produc=on or sec=on systems In this system the workers, opera=ng in small teams, take responsibility for the quality of the finished product. Job rota=on makes the job less boring but also demands a more flexible and skilled workforce.

Progressive Bundle System Machinists are organized into small teams who are responsible for a par=cular part of the produc=on process. It is equivalent to cell produc=on for individual parts of the garment.

Mass Produc=on Mass produc=on is industrial-­‐scale manufacture of large quan==es of products, usually on a produc=on line. Mass produc=on is suitable for products that seldom need to be redesigned and are needed in very large numbers, eg socks or jeans.

Batch Produc=on Batch produc=on is manufacturing set quan==es of a tex=le product to order. The prototype is made up in a medium size from the intended fabric. The prototype is checked for quality of design and manufacture, then put into produc=on in a range of standard sizes. The quan=ty of products can vary from a set of four cushions made by a designer-­‐maker, to 20,000 jumpers made for a department store.

One-­‐off Produc=on One-­‐off produc=on is designing and making a single tex=le product to a client's specifica=on. The garment design is developed from a basic block pacern, with a prototype made from inexpensive fabric to test the drape, fit and assembly of the garment.

FASHION DEFINITIONS

Fashion fad A short term style which is very popular for a brief period of =me e.g. shell suits

Classic trend A garment that may change in style but is in fashion for a long period of =me e.g. a waistcoat.

Haute couture A French term for the highest quality in dressmaking

FASHION FORECASTING Fashion forecasters predict trends for colour, style, materials etc., for future seasons.

Fashion designers then use this informa=on to design their future collec=ons.

USING ICT IN PLANNING PRODUCTION Advantages: Templates can be manipulated on a screen layplan economically.

Waste is reduced Es=mates for fabric requirements can be made Cost calcula=ons can be made

SELVEDGE EDGE The edge on a woven piece of fabric that does not fray. It is formed when the horizontal weM threads are wrapped around the ver=cal warp threads as part of the weaving process.

COMPUTER INTEGRATED MANUFACTURE (CIM) Advantages: Allows informa=on to be passed easily between the various sec=ons of a company Provides direct links between the design room, factory and retail outlets Allows quick response to market demands It is easy for shops to control their stock levels It informs the manufacturer of what is selling and what is not so that produc=on can be adjusted

Quality assurance

Quality assurance (QA) is a system of checks designed to ensure that fault-­‐free products are produced that can be sold at a profit to sa=sfied customers. A quality-­‐assurance system involves regular quality control inspec=ons which test and monitor the quality, accuracy and fitness-­‐for-­‐purpose of the product, from the design stage through to manufacture.

CriDcal control points

Quality-­‐control checks take place at cri=cal control points (CCPs) in a product's manufacture. The following are typical CCPs in tex=les manufacture.

Raw materials are tested to make sure they are the correct width, colour, weight and fibre content. Depending on the product end-­‐use, the fabric may be tested for strength, durability, crease-­‐resistance, stretch, shrinkage or water-­‐repellency.

Prototype. This is a mock-­‐up of the product used to trial a design or pacern, see how materials and components behave, try out an assembly process, work out costs, and test fitness-­‐for-­‐purpose in everyday use.

Produc=on. During produc=on there will be checks for s=tch and seam strength, and seam allowances are tested to check if they meet the tolerance stated in the manufacturing specifica=on.

QUALITY ASSURANCE CHECKS These checks take place before manufacture begins and their purpose is to ensure a good quality product, checks can be made n aspects such as: Fabric feel – texture, finish etc.

Fabric durability – how will it wear?

Fabric strength – will it stretch etc?

Washability – will it shrink, fade etc?

Component suitability – will zips withstand constant use etc?

Workforce skills – are workers able to use machines and complete processes to a good standard?

Anything which relates to the probable outcome of the product.

QUALITY CONTROL CHECKS During the produc=on process quality control checks can be made on such aspect as: Even hem depth Matching colour of thread Parallel lines of s=tching Even length of seams Even seam tolerance Symmetrical neckband curve, Pacern matching S=tch lengths Bucon and buconhole alignment Symmetrical collar points Secure fastening or decora=ve detail acachment etc.

This would cover any part of the process, which determined whether a product was well made, or not.

WEAVING MACHINE

DIE CUTTER A shaped metal cucer for stamping out several pacern pieces.

FABRIC SPREADING MACHINE ROTARY PRINTING

STRAIGHT KNIFE BLADE CUTTER

BUTTONHOLE MACHINE

BUTTON MACHINE

KNITTING MACHINE OVER LOCKER

a) Describe the folllowing: only 1 mark will be given for each so keep it basic!

i) Specifica=on ii) Design Development iii) Exis=ng Products

b) When evalua=ng what do you compare your finished product against? (1)

c) Explain: (3) i) One off produc=on ii) Batch prodcu=on iii) Mass produc=on iv) Which method is used to produce haute couture? (1) v) What does this piece of equipment do? (1)

vi) And this piece of equipment? (1) b)What is fashion forecas=ng? (2)

ii) Proivde two different methods of achieving expensive designer looks at affordable high street prices (2)

c) What are Photochromic dyes? (1)

d) Explain micro-­‐encapsula=on – with an example (3)

Ques=on 6: KNOWLEDGE OF MATERIALS & COMPONENTS material proper=es, why are they the best, fabric tes=ng, components, smart materials

How are yarns made?

• Fibres are yarns that have been twisted into long lengths • They are then wound onto spools or cones • The yarn is then spun clockwise (Z twist) or an=clockwise (S twist)

Natural Fibres • • • • • •

Alpaca Angora Camel hair Cashmere Mohair Wool

• • • • • •

Linen Jute Hemp Ramie Cocon Silk

Can be either animal or plant based.

Synthe=c Fibres These are made by oil-­‐based by-­‐products.

• Aramid • Acrylic • Modacrylic • Polyamide • Polyethylene • Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) • Polyester These are made from oil-­‐based by-­‐products). Micro-­‐ fibres are fine synthe=c fibres e.g. polyester, nylon.

• Nylon Tactel is a micro-­‐fibre trade name.

Regenerated Fibres These are made from a combina=on of chemicals and cellulose waste: • Viscose • Lyocell • Acetate • Cupro • Modal • Tencel

FIBRE INFORMATION

COTTON – a natural fibre, strong, even when wet, absorbent, draws heat from the body, shrinks unless treated, good for clothing because it absorbs moisture especially sports wear, walking and climbing wear.

LINEN – Absorbent, draws heat from the body, creases easily.

WOOL – A natural fibre, rela=vely weak, very absorbent, holds in body heat, creases fall out, shrinks unless treated.

RAYON – a synthe=c fibre, rela=vely weak, absorbent, holds in body heat, creases, shrinks or stretches unless treated.

ACETATE – rela=vely weak synthe=c fibre, moderately absorbent, holds in body heat, tends to crease, resists stretching and shrinking.

POLYESTER – a strong synthe=c fibre, low absorbency, holds body heat, resists creasing.

ACRYLIC – strong, low absorbency, holds body heat, resists creasing, synthe=c.

NYLON – strong, low absorbency, holds body heat, resists creasing.

KEVLAR – a very strong fabric which is used for protec=ve clothing

SILK – A natural fabric cool to wear, quite expensive with a good sheen, crease resistant, used for lingerie, night wear, evening wear and clothing for special occasions.

LYCRA – a synthe=c rubber fibre with elastane to make it flexible, used for lingerie and sportswear.

NYLON – A closely woven fabric, lightweight, synthe=c, used for tents, waterproof clothing, ropes etc

POLARTEC – made from recycled plas=c bocles. Biodegradable, used to line hand-­‐kniced garments to improve performance.

TENCEL – a synthe=c fibre produced from wood pulp.

FABRIC INFORMATION

CANVAS – A strong fabric, oMen made from cocon, used for products such as deckchairs, tents, oil pain=ngs etc.

PVC – A completely waterproof synthe=c fabric with a plas=c coa=ng, used for kitchen aprons, waterproof clothing, table covers etc.

POLYCOTTON – A blended mixture of cocon and polyester used for shirts, bed sheets, blouses etc., gives the advantages of cocon but irons and dries more easily

NEOPRENE – A synthe=c fabric used for wetsuits etc.

RIPSTOP NYLON-­‐ A lightweight fabric which has threads woven into it which literally stop the fabric from tearing, it’s used for tents, kites, sails etc., anything where a lightweight, water resistant fabric is needed.

DENIM – A strong fabric made from cocon with a twill weave, a white warp and a coloured weM.

CORDUROY – A cocon or cocon/nylon fibre made in a pile weave. Used for clothing, furnishing fabrics etc.

GORE-­‐TEX – A synthe=c laminated fabric, totally waterproof but semi-­‐permeable so allows skin to breathe.

CORDURA – a strong, waterproof fabric which resists abrasion. Used for products which need to be strong such as rucksacks.

Mixes of fibres can be used to give a fabric that has the best quali=es of the two. Cocon and polyester can be mixed to give a fabric that is less expensive than pure cocon, creases less easily, irons more easily and is s=ll fairly absorbent and cool to wear.

Cocon and lycra can be mixed to give a cool, comfortable fabric that absorbs moisture (from the cocon) and stretches and returns to shape (from the lycra).

Other mixes are polyester/wool, wool/nylon, wool/cocon, silk/viscose, cocon/linen, linen/ silk, cocon/elastane, Permatex/poyester.

In a mix the major disadvantage of one fibre is counteracted by the major advantage of the other.

FABRICS AND FIBRES WITH SPECIAL PROPERTIES

ELASTANE The best known fibre of this type is Lycra. Because it is an elastane it has high stretch as one of its proper=es. Its’ main use is in sports wear and underwear but it is also found in garments such as suits as it improves comfort and appearance.

RECYCLED AND BIODEGRADABLE FABRICS These are made from fibres that have been recycled from plas=c water bocles. Companies such as Malden Mills produce Polartec and Patagonia and use these types of fibres to make fleeces which are lightweight and breathable. These products are also biodegradable due to the processing.

MICROFIBRES These are small fine fibres up to 60 =mes finer than human hair. They are normally made from either polyamide or polyester fibres e.g. tactel.

NOMEX A key fibre, has been developed for use by fire fighters.

KEVLAR Very hardwearing. With the use of chemicals, it can be s=ffened up or made as soM fabric, depending on the end use. It is five =mes stronger than steel. It can be used for gloves, protec=ve jackets or bullet proof vests.

FABRICS WITH A MEMBRANE These are fabrics that allow air in and out but do not allow moisture in. An example of this is Gore Tex.

BIO STEEL A gene=cally modified fibre that contains casein from goat’s milk and the protein silk from spiders’ webs. The two products are combined together to give a bullet proof vest that can be recycled.

SYMPATEX One of a new range of fibres that consist of a hydrophilic membrane. It is breathable and waterproof – used for extreme weather clothing.

What are finishing processes?

Finishing processes are usually applied to fabric before it is manufactured into products.

The processes can change or alter a number of the fabric s proper=es, including its feel, durability and appearance.

Processes can be physical, chemical or biological.

A number of new finishes are also being developed.

Key points

Finishes Key points " Finishing processes alter the proper=es of fabrics, allowing them new uses. " Physical processes, such as embossing and brushing, mechanically alter the surface of the fabric. " Chemical finishes, such as waterproofing and bleaching, coat the fabric or chemically add or remove something (for example, the colour) from the fabric. " Biostoning and biopolishing are both biological finishes in which enzymes acack the fabric. " New finishes have produced fire, abrasion and chemical resistant fabrics.

Addi=onal finishes are con=nually being developed.

Physical finishes There are many physical finishes that are used for furnishings, specialist clothing and pacerned fabric.

Embossing is a process that is applied to syntheDc fabrics. The fabric passes through two rollers which have a pacern engraved on the surface. The rollers are heated and the pacern is melted into the fabric.

Physical finishes Brushing can be applied to natural and man-­‐ made fabrics, e.g. wool, coQon and polyester. The fabric is passed between a number of rollers which have Dny wires on the surface. These wires brush the fabric and leave it fluffy. This process is popular for bedding and fleece outerwear.

Physical finishes LaminaDng joins layers of fabrics together using adhesive or heat. The process can be applied to cocon and polyester and produces an enhanced fabric with more proper=es.

Calendaring is similar to embossing but the heated rollers are smooth. This leaves a shiny and smooth finish on the fabric.

A laser draws decoraDve pacerns onto natural or man-­‐made fabrics.

Chemical finishes There are a large number of chemical finishes that are used for clothing, furnishings, bedding, hard and soM furnishing and outdoor products.

AnD-­‐felDng is a finish that is applied to wool. It can either be applied by a syntheDc polymer coa=ng or an oxidaDve finish.

Both of these processes soVen the wool.

Bleaching is a process which removes the natural colour of wools, linens and cocons.

Chemical finishes Flame proofing can be applied to a number of different fabrics. The process is either applied to a yarn or fabric. It will slow down the burning process but not stop burning completely.

Waterproofing is applied at the fabric stage. A silicone based chemical coats the fabric, leaving a waterproof layer.

To make fabric stain resistant a silicone based chemical is applied to the fabric, which stops stains from penetraDng the fabric.

Biological finishes There are currently two biological finishes that are added to fibres and fabrics. These processes can be applied to cocon and tencel, both of which are mainly used for clothes.

Biostoning is an alterna=ve to using a pumice on fabric, and the process takes place aMer the fabric has been dyed.

Cellulose enzymes acack the cellulose already in the fibre, giving denim a faded look.

Biopolishing takes place before the fabric is dyed. A biological enzyme is added to the fabric, giving it a sheen.

New finishes New finishes are being invented and developed all the =me, allowing tex=les to be used in an increasing variety of situa=ons.

Fire resistant fabrics can withstand extreme fire condi=ons, and are more effec=ve than flame proofed materials.

Fibres can now be treated so they are fire retardant before they are made into fabrics. This ensures protecDon from both flames and extreme heat and makes makes the fabric difficult to light and burn.

New finishes Thermal insulaDon is a process which keeps people warm by regula=ng the temperature.

Chemical protecDon stops the penetra=on of any chemicals that may be in the atmosphere.

Membrane systems absorb liquids like perspira=on and disperse them into the atmosphere. The membranes are constructed so that liquid is not allowed back through.

New finishes Tear and cut resistance is a finish that is applied to fabrics which stops the penetra=on of knives. It also stops fabrics from tearing.

Abrasion resistance is the process that prevents fabrics from deteriora=on caused by constant wear and tear.

A reflecDve finish is achieved by inks applied to fibres and yarns to produce a HV (high visibility) finish.

AnDbacterial processed fabrics can wick away moisture (sweat) and even help the healing process.

What pracDcal applicaDons do you think these finishes might have?

Smart TexDles

Smart materials are developed through the inven=on of new or improved processes e.g. as a result of man made materials or human interven=on.

Smart materials respond to differences in light or temperature and change in some way.

They are called smart because they sense and react to environmental condiDons. These tex=les have been used for sportswear, medical and safety wear and fashion clothing.

There are 3 main groups:

Passive Smart: sense environmental condi=ons Ac=ve Smart: senses and reacts to environmental condi=ons Very Smart: senses, reacts and adapts to environmental condi=ons

Uses for smart materials:

-­‐Micro-­‐climate clothing (maintains temp.)

SMART fabrics can also: -­‐Wrinkle-­‐free fabrics Reflect light, -­‐Allergy control (an=sep=cs) -­‐ Rhovyl is an an=bacterial fabric React to UV -­‐Sani=zed fabrics (combats sweat) Glow in the dark -­‐Intelligent polymer systems (responds to movement) Change colour with warmth

React to body temperature and release moisture,

Absorb over 20 =mes their own weight in fluid.

Photochromic dye is light sensiDve. Smart pigments change colour in response to sun lightT-­‐shirts; military clothing

Thermochromic dyes is heat sensiDve. Micro-­‐encapsulated dye can change colour in response to heat. Lasts for 5-­‐10 washes.

Children's clothes, sports clothing, fire-­‐fighter's clothing, wound dressings

Micro-­‐encapsulated Different micro-­‐capsules embedded in the fibre or fabric.

Gives off aroma=c scent Can reduces body odour Can provide vitamins or reduce skin irrita=on Underwear, an=-­‐bacterial socks, medical tex=les

Ques=on 7: TOOLS, EQUIPMENT & MAKING pacern symbols, decora=ve techniques, construc=on techniques (e.g sleeves, pleasts), layplans, prototypes

Iden=fy the pacern symbols:

The sketch below shows a simple idea for a floor cushion. It is 40cm x 40cm x 30cm i) On the grid below, draw the layout for the templates needed to make the cushion. Your layout must make the mist economical use of material. The seam allowance is 1.5cm.

The material is 150cm wide (part has been started for you) (5)

ii) State the length of material needed to make the floor cushion. (1)

Other industrial methods Â

TYPES OF WEAVE There are many types of weave. The weave that is chosen for a tex=le product will depend on the intended use.

TWILL WEAVE This weave creates a diagonal pacern (e.g. denim or gaberdine). The weM yards pass over and under either 2 or 4 warp yarns.

PLAIN WEAVE The simplest weave where the weM yarns pass over and under the warp yarns e.g. polyester, cocon or calico.

PILE WEAVE This is a woven fabric with a pile that is made either of loops e.g. toweling or thread as in velvet and corduroy.

JACQUARD WEAVE This is a complex woven fabric. It is made on a specific type of loom that is called a jacquard loom, which is oMen controlled by a computer. The fabrics produced using this method are oMen very expensive and are of a high quality. Typical fabric are rich furnishings and formal wear such as wedding waistcoats.

SATIN WEAVE The weave for this fabric passes the weM yarns over and under between 4 and 7 warp yarns giving a smooth shiny fabric. This is used in furnishing fabrics e.g. damask.

See page 14 of revision guide

OTHER COMPONENTS

Vilene A s=ffening material which can be iron on or sew in. It is used to strengthen and s=ffen fabric on garments in areas such as cuffs, collars, bucons or buconhole strips.

Ques=on 8: ICT, CAD CAM, SYSTEMS & PROCESSES CAD, CAM processes, flow charts/ produc=on plans

a) What is: (3)

i) ICT ii) CAD iii) CAM b) What are two advantages of using CAD? (2)

c) Give two examples of CAM (2)

d) Explain the importance of feedback in controlling systems (2)