taste Ireland Winter Annual 2018

WIN! A LUXURIOUS CHRISTMAS CHOCOLATE HAMPER!

The

€3.50 NI £2.70

taste

! e u s s i s a m t s i r he Ch

T

100+

Annual 2018

Delicious Winter Recipes & ideas

ALL THE TRIMMINGS FROM

NEVEN MAGUIRE DARINA ALLEN DONNA HAY

FEED THE FAMILY: THE BIG CHRISTMAS LUNCH, SORTED!

  CENTREPIECE DESSERTS CANAPÉS &  PARTY FOOD

Cheers!

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Deluxe

Cosy winter cocktails & wine pairings

YUM!

Darina’s Chocolate Meringue Gateau p16

BORED OF THE BIRD? What else you can buy, how to cook it & more

10/26/2018 1:13:52 PM

Index

Cool as you like.

RECIPE INDEX

All the recipes in this issue broken down into easy-to-find food sections . . .

LARGE Panel 2

SOMETHING VEGETARIAN MEAT & SWEET & POULTRY BAKING 16

Chocolate meringue gateau

57

Caramelised plum upside-down cake

67

Wholemeal spelt carrot loaf with orange mascarpone icing

13

Spiced peanut sweet potatoes

24

Veggie pad Thai

22

Indian butter chicken

38

Watercress, blood orange & new season Toonsbridge mozzarella salad

32

Chunky vegetable soup

41

Tomato tart

33

Meatballs

64

Ruby chard korma

39

Glazed ham with mango relish

66

Macroom oatmeal with milk & salt

40

Gratin of swede turnips & potatoes with thyme leaves, smoked bacon & Parmesan

43

Perfect Christmas gravy

44

Salt-rubbed turkey with sage & orange

46

Pot roast pheasant, clementine & cardamom

52

Winter celery soup with Cashel Blue & toasted hazelnuts

54

Turkey baked with marjoram

58

Coconut chicken curry

59

Beef-aubergine casserole

69

Duck larb salad with rainbow carrots & pineapple

70

Soy, lemon & togarashi chicken wings

89

Slow-cooked chicken with a crisp corn crust

74

Chocolate ice-cream pie

84

75

Salted dark chocolate layer cake with milk chocolate ganache

Cucumber, red onion & pomegranate salad

85

Beetroot with spinach & creamy yoghurt

76

Chocolate salted caramel cookies

90

78

Cheese & matcha scones

Pappardelle with rose harissa, black olives & capers

79

Fudgy brownies

91

Plum, blackberry & bay friand bake

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41 FISH & SHELLFISH 42

Smoked salmon & cream cheese stacks

71

Grilled honey soy salmon with citrus soba noodles

98

Prawn, chorizo & basil linguine

44

Published by RTÉ Commercial Enterprises DAC, 2018. Printed by Boylan Print Group

NordMende is distributed by KAL (Kitchen Accessories Limited) a member of the Gowan Group taste

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10/26/2018 11:33:16 AM

A letter from Janice

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hristmas rituals, from the roast turkey and pudding, to the gifts and music we play, are as individual as the way we decorate our trees.

Christmas, it seems, is not one tradition but many. Each family, even each person, has their own way of celebrating; that’s what makes it so special. However you celebrate the season, it certainly wouldn’t be Christmas without delicious food to share with family and friends. And this year we have everything you need to create your best yet! From the showstopping main event to the canapés that will have your guests talking, we’ve gone looking for some great recipes so you don’t have to.

In this issue, we talk to our friends Darina Allen, Donal Skehan and Neven Maguire about the year they’ve had and each shares some of their favourite recipes from their new books, including the glorious chocolate meringue cake on the cover from Darina. With friends and family coming in from the cold, you may want to welcome them with home-baked goodies and Donna Hay has some incredible suggestions starting on page 72. We’ve also rounded up the best Christmas gift ideas for the foodies in your life and picked out some of the top festive markets from around the country.

We wish you a wonderfully happy Christmas and whether you sit back or kick up your heels, we hope we’ve been able to help. See you in 2019!

Cover image From Simply Delicious the Classic Collection by Darina Allen, published by Kyle Books, €27.

Photography by Peter Cassidy

Happy cooking!

Janice Butler Editor

@TasteIrelandMag

@tasteirelandmag

taste team...

Taste Ireland Magazine

Managing Editor: Catherine Lee Editor: Janice Butler Chief Sub-editor: Stephen Meyler Art Editor: Luisa Kenny Pre-press: David Mahon Marketing & Circulation Manager: Philippa Gee (contact 01-208 2145) Advertising Sales: Karen Foster (contact 01-208 2880) RTÉ Group Head of Commercial: Geraldine O’Leary © RTÉ Commercial Enterprises DAC, 2018

Taste Ireland Magazine

Get in touch with taste If you have any queries or comments on taste, get in touch at 01-208 2919 or rteguide@rte.ie

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43 76 70

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CONTENTS

Winter 2018 12

6 The guest list Meet all the talented chefs and cooks who have contributed to this recipe-packed issue

8 Foodie news

20

27 Bored of the bird?

some of the classic dishes she’s best known for cooking

Some alternatives to the traditional turkey and how to cook them

The latest products, restaurant

28 Gifts galore

and book news from the world

Some foodie gift ideas

of food

14 Christmas countdown What to do and when

16 Cook the cover Do you love our cover star this issue? Here’s how to make it

Grenfell Tower fire came

Spice up your life

shared love of cooking – here’s their story

his cooking paces by Neven

A quick rundown of the best

Maguire

Christmas markets in Ireland

34 Asian fusion

62 Dynamic duo

Stephen Meyler gets a tour of

The couple behind the

Dublin’s busy Asian market

Currabinny kitchen; James

with Eva Pau

Kavanagh and William Murray, have released their first book. They share some

Sides, starters, the turkey, the

of heaven

trimmings – we have it all

20 The LA lifestyle

48 Food on TV

Donal Skehan is on a flying visit

Some great food-related TV

how to make some delicious

shows that are streaming or

Asian dishes at home

up with the chef and new dad

airing at the moment

26 Cheese please

50 Simply Darina

Crowd-pleasing cheese platters

18

Darina Allen is back with

86 Story of Food Where do the meals we eat

A little sticky and sweet piece

from LA and loving life. We catch

Get the cocktail shakers out:

84 A taste of the Middle East

to Cavan to be put through

18 Save the date? 36 Festive feast

80 Cheers!

From the destruction of the

60 Markets & magic

Donal O’Donoghue travels

92

it’s time to party!

55 Coming together a close community and a

30 A lesson in 12 A little book of... cooking Sweet potatoes

50

delights from it with us

every day come from? Some beautiful new books fill us in

88 The Simple Life Yotam Ottolenghi is back with a new book and some simple recipes, for a change!

92 Deck the halls Some tips and tricks to make your Christmas decorations stand out

68 Asian fusion

this year

Chef Jennifer Joyce shows us

98 Save space for...

72 Showstoppers This is Christmas baking at

Prawn, chorizo & basil linguine

99 INDEX

its best!

80

30

62 taste

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taste

In

this

issue Donal Skehan

Neven Maguire

Donal’s Meals in Minutes is all about real, honest, fast food made with simple ingredients and clever cooking methods that are the building blocks for delicious home-cooked suppers.

These recipes require minimum equipment and ingredients to deliver speedy suppers, ready to serve straight to the table!

If you’ve been in a cooking rut, this is the book to change your approach to the kitchen.

Meals in Minutes by Donal Skehan (Hodder & Stoughton) is in bookshops now.

Can’t cook? Won’t cook? This fantastic new cooking bible presents Neven’s selection of the only 50 recipes you need to know – and how to make them. Like our own Donal O’Donoghue (check page 30) you’ll discover how to make a good tomato sauce, how to dress a salad, roasting techniques and how to make stock from the bones, the art of brown bread, the trick for perfect scrambled eggs, formulas for sauces and soups and easy-to-make cakes and treats.

Home Economics for Life by Neven Maguire (Gill) is in bookshops now.

Darina Allen

Michel Roux

Nearly 30 years on from the original Simply Delicious book and TV series, Darina Allen brings together 100 of her timeless, tried and trusted recipes and we’re sure they are as much in demand now as they were all those years ago. Simply Delicious the Classic Collection by Darina Allen, published by Kyle Books in Hardback, €27, photography by Peter Cassidy. Darina’s recipes from our Christmas chapter are from A Simply Delicious Christmas by Darina Allen, published by Gill books.

One of the best-known French chefs on TV, Michel Roux Jr runs the renowned two-Michelin star restaurant Le Gavroche in London, as well as a number of other restaurants. In The French Revolution, Michel revisits the classic dishes from his traditional French upbringing, but takes a modern approach that adapts his favourite recipes to suit home cooks today who are looking for light, healthy and easyto-make options. The French Revolution

by Michel Roux Jr, published in hardback by Seven Dials (£25)

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In this issue

Hubb Community Kitchen In the aftermath of the Grenfell Tower fire in London, a group of local women gathered together to cook fresh food for their families and neighbours. Over the chatter and aromas of the kitchen they discovered the power of cooking and eating together to create connections, restore hope and normalcy, and provide a sense of home. This was the start of the Hubb Community Kitchen and Together is their story and recipes. Together: Our Community Cookbook, published by Ebury Press.

Photography by Jenny Zarins.

Jennifer Joyce Bao buns, pho, sushi, poke bowls, gyoza, ramen and kimchi are common dishes in our restaurants these days.

For those of you looking for a challenge, chef Jennifer Joyce shows how easy it is to create these zingy, fresh, healthy flavours at home in her new book. My Asian Kitchen by Jennifer Joyce (Murdoch Books, £20). Photography by Phil Webb.

Atoosa Sepehr It’s nice to take a break from all the fuss of Christmas and this book is the perfect way to do that. Author and photographer Atoosa Sepehr offers not just mouthwatering traditional Iranian recipes, but also her own sumptuous photographs of both her food and the people and landsapes of Iran.

Atoosa’s Persian Kitchen by Atoosa Sepehr, published by Robinson.

James Kavanagh & William Murray In five years selling at farmers’ markets and hosting dining events and pop-ups, James Kavanagh and William Murray’s food business, Currabinny, has grown a huge fan-base. Their first book, The Currabinny Cookbook, includes their favourite recipes and highlights their love of seasonal, fresh produce, cooked with a twist. The Currabinny Cookbook by James Kavanagh & William Murray, published by Penguin Books.

Donna Hay In Modern Baking, Donna has arrived and it is time to fall in love with your new modern baking bible. Inside are more than 250 ideas for cakes, cookies, slices, pies, desserts and icy treats. All her favourites for indulging and impressing guests are here, as well as shortcuts for when life gets crazy busy.

Modern Baking by Donna Hay, published by Fourth Estate (Harper Collins).

Yotam Ottolenghi In his new book, SIMPLE, Ottolenghi has 130 new dishes that contain all the inventive elements and flavour combinations that he is loved for, but with minimal hassle for maximum joy – yes that’s right, the chef known for his long list of ingredients is paring things back, or so he promises!

SIMPLE by Yotam Ottolenghi with Tara Wigley and Esme Howarth, published by Ebury Press.

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taste

bite-sized Foodie news and happenings

Baileys

& caramel

J

ust in time for Christmas, Baileys has launched a salted caramel chocolate range – a perfect grown-up indulgence for Baileys and chocolate lovers everywhere – it is Christmas after all! Available in a sharing tube or pouch, each is filled with mini truffles wrapped with silky smooth chocolate shells and oozing with a salty caramel centre that has a touch of the iconic Irish cream liqueur.

Everyone’s favourite Baileys original truffles are also back this year. With a smooth milk chocolate shell and a creamy Baileys centre, the truffles have a devoted fan base and have proved especially popular at Christmas! The tube or mini pouch is an ideal Christmas stocking filler while the truffle bar is perfect for sharing anytime. If you are travelling in the coming months, you can also pick up the Baileys Truffle Tube at a reduced 2 for €20 price in Dublin and Shannon airports – bargain!

A bit of goodness If you want to counteract the indulgences of the winter season, check out the latest super smoothie on the Irish market – Juspy Original. In a sea of po-faced health purists, Juspy offers a refreshingly playful alternative. Juspy Original is made with coconut milk, cacao, coconut nectar, collagen protein (cow source), flax oil, chicory root fibre, sunflower seed butter, Brazilian orange oil, Himalayan pink salt and camu camu berry.

It can help reduce tiredness, support normal cognitive function, the immune system, gut health, heart health and skin health. Who is it for? It’s a perfect drink to support new mothers in their post-natal recovery (so comforting at 3am during night-time feeds).

It’s ideal for busy mothers of older kids running around as well as a great mini-meal on the go for anyone too busy to sit down and eat. So what’s the story behind this new brand? In 2014, Leonie Lynch was weaning her 9-month-old daughter when she noticed the milk formula label. It said it contained everything her baby needed. As an exhausted mother, she realised she needed something similar, a formula to nourish her too. “I longed for someone to take the thinking out of food for me and hand me complete nourishment, not just supplements.” Not being able to find this product, she created it herself. This led her to start her company Juspy and now Juspy Original is available online at juspy.com as well as stockists around the country (see website for locations).

RRP €3.75, 289 kcals, 17.2g protein per 185ml bottle

G in a d v e nt u r e

Hendrick’s gin palace One of our favourite gins, Hendrick’s, has unveiled a new distillery home in Scotland, The Hendrick’s Gin Palace, as part of an expansion of the distillery to meet the voracious global demand for Hendrick’s. The Hendrick’s Gin Palace features a mysterious walled garden which leads to a magnificent Victorian-inspired palm house. This is flanked by two botanical hot houses used to cultivate unusual botanicals and flora from around the world.

There is also an inner sanctum which features a curious flavour library, a lecture theatre and a suitably stylish bar.

Lesley Gracie, the master distiller for Hendrick’s says: “I’ve been distilling Hendrick’s for almost 20 years and during that time, my team and I have had the opportunity to explore and experiment on a small scale. However, I’m thrilled and excited to take full advantage of our wonderful new distillery and begin working on a line of experimental liquids, some of which will hopefully blossom into future releases and potential new expressions of Hendrick’s.” For more information on the Gin Palace go to hendricksgin.com

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Bite-sized

Christmas dinner, sorted!

E

very year, we lust over the ads for Marks & Spencer’s Christmas food and this year is no different.

The problem is we just need to get ourselves organised enough to put in the order in time! This year, M&S has developed a Christmas collection with a wide range of whole birds, crowns and joints to meet everyone’s needs. New this year are Festive Chicken Parcels, a quick, easy-to-cook alternative: succulent chicken breasts stuffed with a pork, sage and onion stuffing and wrapped in smoked bacon and made to look like presents. There’s also a luxury Sirloin of Beef, topped with a porcini and truffle butter, ideal for catering for big parties over the festive season. For vegetarians, a top choice is the Baked Ricotta Stacks, with mushrooms, leeks and kale in a creamy white wine sauce. This year, M&S has redeveloped the recipe for their tasty Butternut, Almond and Pecan Nut Roast, to make it suitable for vegans, complete with a red wine and thyme gravy.

Top p i c k s !

Looking for Christmas gift inspiration for the foodie in your life? A cookbook is the gift that keeps on giving, providing inspiration and pleasurable cooking and eating experiences for the year ahead and beyond.

Here’s our pick of the best this year.

Jamie Cooks Italy by Jamie Oliver A celebration of one of the world’s best-loved cuisines, in which the one and only Jamie Oliver reconnects with his great love of Italian food.

From antipasti to dessert, it is the ultimate guide to recreating the magic of Italian cooking in your own kitchen, with a collection of achievable recipes inspired by the wonderful nonnas Jamie encountered while travelling the length and breadth of the country to research this book.

Classic by Mary Berry Whether you’re challenging yourself to make a brilliant beef Bourguignon or need a fail-safe recipe for the perfect lasagne, every time, Mary Berry’s latest cookbook, Classic, is full of go-to and authoritative recipes, from breakfast to dessert, to expand and revitalise your repertoire.

After all, who would you trust more than Mary Berry to help you master the classics?

Three Ingredient Baking

by Sarah Rainey Each of these nifty recipes uses literally just three ingredients.

For example, author Sarah Rainey somehow manages to turn a packet of biscuits, white chocolate chips and a tin of sweetened condensed milk into the ultimate afternoon indulgence.

The pared back recipes make this a great one for kids and keeps costs down in the process.

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taste Method Whip the egg yolks and ground pine tree with the whisk attachment in a mixer until pale yellow and reach the ribbon stage.

Bring the 50ml of cream to the boil, add the bloomed gelatine sheet and stir until dissolved. Pour the mixture over the milk and dark chocolates to make a ganache.

Put the sugar in a small pot and pour in just enough water to cover. Heat and bring to a temperature of 120°C. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks and in a steady stream pour in the hot sugar syrup to make an Italian meringue.

Assemble the mousse by folding the whipped yolks into the chocolate ganache, followed by the warm Italian meringue and lastly the whipped cream.

Do not over-mix. Chill until required

1

2

3 4 5

To make the jelly base Allow the three gelatine leaves to bloom in ice cold water. Warm the syrup with the spices.

Cube the sponge and put in the base of the trifle mould with the cherries.

Put the softened gelatine in the hot syrup but don’t allow to boil again, then a little sherry or crème de cassis if you like. Strain over the sponge and allow to set in the fridge.

1 2 3

Recipe corner

Jenny Flynn Christmas trifle Faithlegg House

Makes approx. 6 portions

You can make these in individual glasses or one large one For jelly base 1 large tin of black cherries, strained but keep 400ml of the syrup A good pinch of ginger and mixed spice 1 clove and 1 star anise 300g chocolate sponge 3 leaves gelatine For the custard 1 Vanilla pod 600ml cream 150g castor sugar 4 large free range egg yolks Zest of 2 oranges (washed to remove any wax) 25g cornflour

Topping 600ml freshly whipped cream Fresh cherries Chocolate shavings 1 x whole orange For the chocolate and pine mousse 110g egg yolks 50ml cream 1 gelatine sheet, bloomed in ice water 125g milk chocolate, melted 125g dark chocolate (up to 70%), melted 35g sugar Water as needed 100ml egg whites 375g cream, whipped to soft peaks A teaspoon pine leaves washed, dried and ground (dried Christmas tree)

To make the custard Boil the cream and orange zest.

Dissolve the cornflour in a small amount of milk, mixing thoroughly to ensure no lumps remain.

Beat the egg yolks, sugar and scraped vanilla pod together until light and fluffy, Pour over some of the boiled cream and continue whisking until all the cream has been added, then return to the heat and heat gently until it coats back of a spoon. Strain and allow to cool slightly before pouring on the set jelly.

Cut the orange into rounds and put on the inside of the glass, pouring in custard to hold it in place.

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2 3

4

Finishing touches

“I like to add some berries cooked with sugar and mulled wine to give it an extra layer”

1 2

Whisk the cream and put on top of the custard. Leave in fridge overnight to allow the layers to set together.

Garnish with fresh cherries, mint and piped chocolate mousse. (You can use the mousse as a separate dessert – I just use it to finish the top of the trifle for the wow impact.)

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Bite-sized

LOVE IN LONGFORD

Looking for somewhere, not too far from Dublin for a foodie night away, I came across the Viewmount House just outside Longford town. I had never heard of it, so to say I was pleasantly surprised is an understatement. This 17th-Century house is complemented by its lovely countryside surroundings and by four acres of meticulously maintained garden. Only a five-minute drive from Longford town, The Viewmount has a warm welcome, with open fires making it just what the doctor ordered for a cosy getaway in the winter. I imagine in the summer it’s just as inviting with its beautiful Japanese-style gardens.

Owners Beryl and James Kearney bought this lovely 400-year-old three-storey farmhouse in 1989 and spent years restoring it in a manner that’s faithful to its past while taking into account the needs of modern visitors. Our room was on the top floor overlooking the gardens. Decorated in keeping with the era of the house with pretty pink floral wallpaper and a stunning four-poster bed that you had to climb into but never wanted to leave, the room had a very modern and bright bathroom. We had an early dinner booking and proprietor Beryl was on hand to show us to the restaurant. Robert Groot Koerkamp from Holland is the seriously good chef here, doing really interesting things with the dishes since he arrived in January of this year, having been executive sous chef in Cliff at Lyons in Co Kildare. He’s passionate about his work and focuses the menu on seasonality and what he can obtain locally.

We checked out the menu in the relaxing reception area with a

GIFTED

For over 30 years, the National Crafts & Design Fair has hosted hundreds of artisan food producers, as well as makers and designers. It’s an opportunity to find unique gifts you won’t find anywhere else.

The festival is at the Main Hall of the RDS from December 5 to 9, with a special 10% discount on all items on Wednesday, December 5. Here’s a selection: The Lismore Food Company’s Dark Chocolate Apple Crisp Thins (€8). Gran Grans Pickled Pears with Ginger and Cardamon (€5). Dr Coy’s Health Foods Festive Friends nutritional Chocolate Orange Crisp Squares (€4.99). Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms award-winning mushroom flavoured oil, vinegars and ketchup €5-14). Foods of Athenry Celebration Cake, a rich Belgian chocolate biscuit cake (€15).

See giftedfair.ie for details.

drink, before going into the main restaurant. A set menu of three courses including tea or coffee is a very reasonable €60 and there are some surprise courses thrown in along the way. Some of the standout dishes from the night were pigeon, a fillet steak with a herbinfused jus served in a small coffee pot and a little surprise of goat’s cheese with popcorn and cranberry.

The next morning, after a glorious sleep in the fairytale bed, breakfast is equally impressive. Served in a pretty drawing room at the back of the house, there’s a hot breakfast and a table of delights to start with.

I’d highly recommend Beryl’s granola: there’s a reason why that bowl was empty by the end of breakfast. As we checked out, sad to be only staying one night, Beryl was kind enough to recommend some local attractions and forest walks – we followed her advice and went for a stroll in the woods near the new site of Center Parcs. That’s another reason to return to Longford, but the Viewmount is top of my list.

Doubles from €130 per night. The five-course dinner menu costs €60 per person. Viewmount House, Dublin Road, Longford. 043-334 1919, viewmounthouse.com

WIN

A LUXURY LIR HAMPER TO CELEBRATE THE ‘ART OF CHOCOLATE’ EXPERIENCE COMING TO A TOWN NEAR YOU! Lir, the premium Irish chocolate maker, is offering one lucky reader the chance to win a luxury Lir hamper to celebrate the launch of the ‘Art of Chocolate’ Experience, which has begun its nationwide journey to delight and educate confectionery lovers of all ages.

Over the coming months, Lir’s team of chocolatiers will travel around the country with their mobile chocolate craft station to demonstrate their chocolate skills and allow visitors to try their hand at chocolate craft. The lucky visitors to the ‘Art of Chocolate’ Experience will have the opportunity to decorate their own chocolate bars and personalise them as gifts for family and friends, as well as tasting some of Lir’s delicious chocolate creations.

The Lir ‘Art of Chocolate’ Experience kicks off in Dublin in November (full list of dates and venues at lirchocolates.com) with further dates at nationwide locations to be announced shortly.

Lir has also launched a new online shop, which, in addition to Lir’s much-loved Discovery Collection, will also stock a full range of Baileys and Guinness confectionery, all created in the Lir factory in Navan, Co. Meath. Just in time for Christmas, the online shop at lirchocolates.com is an ideal one-stop-shop for all your Christmas confectionery needs.

For your chance to win a luxury hamper of Lir chocolates, just answer this question: What is an expert in chocolate craft called? a) Chocolatier b) Atelier c) Musketeer Email your answer to: rteguide@rte.ie, including your name, address and telephone number and labelling your mail ‘Lir Hamper Competition’.

Closing date is Friday, December 7.

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taste

A little book of . . .

sweet potatoes More popular than ever, sweet potatoes have a creamy texture and a sweet-spicy avour that makes them ideal for seasonal savoury dishes and side dishes at this time of year Picking and preparing sweet potatoes

Choose the best: Try to choose small to mediumsized sweet potatoes with unblemished skins, as they will be more tender when cooked.

Prepare it:

Unless your sweet potatoes are particularly small and smooth, remove the skins with a peeler as they are often well-travelled and can be tough.

Store it:

Store in a cool, dark place and use within a week of purchase.

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A little book of... sweet potatoes

Spiced peanut sweet potatoes Serves 4 as a side 2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground cumin Handful of parsley, chopped 45g dates, pitted and chopped 1 heaped tablespoon black sesame seeds (normal sesame seeds also work – you’ll just need to toast them) Salt and pepper FOR THE DRESSING 2 tablespoons date syrup or maple syrup 2 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons smooth peanut butter Juice of ½ lemon

Ella says: “I think this is my favourite recipe in the book; I’m completely addicted to it. The sweet potatoes are roasted with ginger, cinnamon and cumin until they’re perfectly tender, then they’re tossed with sesame seeds, dates, parsley and a smooth peanut butter dressing while still warm. They’re heaven! I eat these on their own, because they’re just so good, but they are a great side too.”

TOP TIP

This dish is most delicious served hot straight out of the oven, but it also works well at room temperature

TO SERVE Handful of peanuts, toasted and chopped (optional) METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 240°C (fan 220°C).

Place the sweet potatoes in a large baking tray and drizzle with the olive oil, add the spices and some salt and pepper and mix well, ensuring everything gets coated. Bake in the oven for 45-50 minutes, until they’re really soft.

While the sweet potatoes are cooking, make the dressing, whisking everything with some salt until smooth.

Next, place the parsley and dates in a large bowl with the sesame seeds. Once the sweet potatoes are cooked, add them to the bowl with the dressing and mix everything together. Sprinkle with toasted peanuts, if using.

Serve and enjoy.

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Recipe from Deliciously Ella The Plant-Based Cookbook by Ella Mills, published by Hodder & Stoughton, priced £25. Photographs by Nassima Rothacker.

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taste

Christmas

Checklist Getting it right in the kitchen on Christmas Day can be a stressful business, but it doesn’t have to be if you follow our guide to cooking the perfect Christmas lunch

1 2 3 Be organised!

It’s easy to go OTT at Christmas, so set a budget and stick to it. Give a separate amount to food, presents, decorations and deduct from the total each time you buy something. In the days leading up to Christmas, make sure you’ve got absolutely everything you need, from the obvious like a turkey, potatoes and smoked salmon, to checking you’ve got enough oil to cook with and plenty of salt and pepper for seasoning too. We recommend getting all your food and drink shopping done by December 22 – that way you can avoid a last-minute trolley dash around your local, and probably very busy, supermarket.

Platters galore

Bake & Freeze Get ahead of the game when it comes to festive treats and nibbles. Make a big batch of mince pies and freeze them, so they are ready whenever guests arrive during the course of the holiday season.

A good host always has antipasto or grazing platters. Food en masse is always great to share and you always know your guests will be busy for the first 20 minutes, nibbling on party snack and chatting, which gives you more time in the kitchen.

Cured meats, cheeses and breads, things you don’t have to cook but that look great, always work best.

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10/24/2018 11:33:02 AM

5 4 8 7 6 10 9 Christmas Checklist

Be time efficient Make as many dishes as possible ahead of time, whether it be a Christmas cake that will last if soaked iin n alcohol or mince tarts.

Champagne C hampagne or Prosecco jjelly elly in a cup with fruit iinside nside appears to be a dessert d essert trend this year (check ( check out Jamie Oliver’s Prosecco P rosecco jelly recipe at jamieoliver.com).

Brussel sprouts

Save time by using what chefs call ‘blanching and refreshing’.

Boil the sprouts, drop them in cold cold water to stop the cooking process, process, then the next day just just reheat them in a pan or in the microwave. microwave. You can can do this with most most other vegetables vegetables too.

Sort your stuffing

Make up your stuffing in advance by melting butter in a frying pan and adding to breadcrumbs. Then add your lightly browned chestnuts, onion and chosen herbs and fruits with seasoning. Set aside in a sealed container in your fridge until you’re ready to pop it in the microwave oven.

Yorkshire The spuds puddings Some people parboil and freeze their potatoes to give them a head start on Christmas Day. Others like to cook them from fresh, but you can still get ahead by peeling and chopping them the night before. Keep them in a waterfilled container overnight o vernight to stop s top them browning b rowning

Sweet treats Christmas pudding, of course, can be made months ahead: simply steam it for a few hours on Christmas Day ‘til reheated. Make sure any other desserts are simple and don’t require oven space. Cold desserts that can be made ahead and served straight away, like a chocolate mousse or a frozen dessert, are ideal.

If you’re serving Yorkshire puddings, you If could make the batter a day in advance. could You could also completely cook and freeze You them, then, after they’re defrosted, just give them, the puddings a quick 5-10 minutes in the the oven to warm them up. oven

The turkey

Brine your turkey on Christmas Eve. As turkey is a lean meat, it can become dry quite quickly, so many chefs recommend brining your bird for around 12 hours before popping it in the oven to cook. During this process, it’ll absorb extra moisture, which in turn helps it stay moist and juicy, and the brining liquor will also help to season the meat. To do this, you’ll need a large pot or bucket filled with a 10% salt/water mix, 2 tbsp of sugar and lots of aromatics (black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, a couple of bay leaves and some orange peel).

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10/24/2018 11:33:46 AM

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cook the

cover Chocolate meringue gateau Serves 6 2 organic, free-range egg whites 125g icing sugar 2 rounded teaspoons cocoa powder (I use Valrhona) For the chocolate & rum cream 30g best-quality dark chocolate 15g unsweetened chocolate 1 tablespoon Jamaican rum 1 tablespoon double cream 300ml softly whipped cream For the chocolate wafers 55g best-quality dark chocolate Method Pre-heat the oven to 150°C/gas mark 2.

Mark 2 x 19cm circles on parchment paper. Check that the bowl is dry, spotlessly clean and free of grease. Put the egg whites into the bowl and add 110g sieved icing sugar all at once; whisk for about 10 minutes until the mixture forms stiff, dry peaks. Sift together the cocoa and the remaining 15g sieved icing sugar and fold in very

1 2

gently. Spread into circles with a palette knife and bake immediately in the oven for 45 minutes or until just crisp. Leave to cool completely, then peel off the paper.

Meanwhile, very gently melt the chocolate with the rum and 1 tablespoon of cream in a bowl over simmering water. Cool and add 2 tablespoons of whipped cream into the chocolate. Mix well, then fold that into the remaining softly whipped cream; don’t stir too much or it may curdle.

To make the chocolate wafers, melt the chocolate in a bowl over barely simmering water. Stir until quite smooth. Spread on a nonstick baking mat or heavy baking tray. Put into a cold place until stiff enough to cut into square or diamond shapes.

Sandwich the two meringue discs together with most of the chocolate and rum cream and add rosettes on top. Decorate with the chocolate wafers and a sprinkling of cocoa.

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10/24/2018 10:07:47 AM

Cook the cover

Darina says “This recipe makes two layers of meringue but you can double the ingredients for a celebration cake or to make individual little meringues”

From Simply Delicious the Classic Collection by Darina Allen, published

by Kyle Books, €27.

Photography by Peter Cassidy

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10/24/2018 10:08:02 AM

taste

N SO

T

S N I E A S ’

? WH N A O S

?W H A

Date for your

DIARY

Dates are one of the oldest cultivated fruits – it’s thought they were a staple in Mesopotamia 8,000 years ago. Now grown in North Africa and the Middle East, there are many hundreds of varieties, but only a handful are exported

T’S

IN SEA

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What’s in season?

Sticky apple cups

We Love

2 medium Bramley apples, about 200g each 85g dried dates, roughly chopped 85g ready-to-eat prunes, roughly chopped or raisins 2 tablespoons light muscovado sugar 1 teaspoon mixed spice 1 small orange, zest and juice 0% fat Greek yogurt or fromage frais, to serve METHOD Halve each apple through the circumference and dig out the core with a dessertspoon from both halves, leaving bowl-shaped hollows behind.

Mix together all the remaining ingredients except for the orange juice and fill the apples with the mixture. Fit them into a microwaveable dish and pour the orange juice on top. Cover and cook on medium (500W) for 5-7 minutes until soft.

Cool for a few minutes before serving with yogurt or fromage frais.

1 2

Did you

know?

Availability

Dried and fresh dates are available the whole year round, but the fresh ones are best around November to January.

Choose the best

Fresh dates should be plump and moist with glossy skins. Dried dates, though a little wrinkly, shouldn’t look emaciated, and should still be plump and glossy, with an even colour. They are sold whole, packaged in long narrow boxes, or pressed into blocks.

Prepare it

Winter

seasonal produce • Brussels sprout • Winter squash • Potatoes • Onions • Bramley apple • Chestnut • Clementine • Beetroot • Parsnip • Cabbage • Duck

Dried dates are ready to use straight away – just slice off from the block or pick as many as you need from the box, but you can also soak them in a liquid like tea or various types of alchohol, to boost flavour and moisture. To remove the stone from a fresh date, just push it out with your fingers, or slit open lengthways, remove, and push the flesh closed again. To remove the skin, pull off the stem, then pinch at one end to push the flesh out.

Store it

Fresh dates will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for around a week. Dried dates stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place will keep for up to a year.

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10/26/2018 11:01:03 AM

taste

B

THE LA

LIFESTYLE

ack in 2007, when babyfaced Howth boy Donal Skehan started blogging about food, there was every chance he would soon disappear, like so many other wannabe social influencers.

Unlike those Instagrammers, however, Donal knew what he was talking about and it was obvious that he was (and is) truly in love with the endless possibilities of food. Four years after he started his blog, Donal published his first cookbook, soon followed by the first of many TV shows. He became a bona fide Irish media star and thanks to the global reach of the online world, he was soon a regular on UK shows like Saturday Kitchen and counted the likes of Jamie Oliver among his friends.

He began popping up on food shows and daytime cooking slots across Europe and then the US came a-calling.

Since most of his YouTube fans were in California, it was a logical move for Donal and his wife Sofie, also his producer, to see what the Golden State had to offer, so they moved there 2½ years ago.

“When we moved out there first, we didn’t bring shipping containers of stuff with us. We were living in Airbnbs, looking for somewhere to live. When we found a place, I was thinking ‘We have to go back to Ireland but if we don’t take this, we’ll lose it,’ so we ended up paying rent for a month when we wouldn’t be there.

“We got off the plane with a couple of suitcases and the first night in our new house there was nothing there, bar a bed and a couch. There was a supermarket down the road and like two proper Irish people, we were wheeling trollies back, filled with bedding, pillows and kettles at about 10 o’clock at night, thinking, what are the neighbours gonna think? The Irish have arrived!”

Although Donal had been on US shows before their move – the St Patrick’s Day slot on the Today show is a regular – he was keen to grasp the opportunities the home of TV offered, while also maintaining his work this side of the Atlantic. “I have a production company based in Ireland, so my day normally starts at about 4 or 5am, trying to get the Irish and UK calls in. I tend to get that done and then by 9am, which is 5pm Irish time, I can start my LA work day.

As it’s got busier there, the calls just keep going until about 4pm, so I’m not really killing two birds with one stone – I’m just working two time zones.”

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10/25/2018 11:44:53 AM

The LA lifestyle

Los Angeles living agrees with TV cook Donal Skehan and his wife Sofie, even more so since the arrival of baby Noah last December. On a recent trip home, he spoke to Stephen Meyler about his new book, life in California and how a baby has made shopping lists essential Work in Los Angeles includes recording his TV show, Meals in Minutes, which is now in its second season, as well as taking his YouTube show, Donal Eats LA, out into a city famous for its food culture.

“Just before I left to come home, we were hoofing around – we did donuts and icecream, tacos and Korean food – the beauty of Los Angeles is that any food you can think of, it’s there.

“We’ve been here for 2½ years now and the show means I’m going to new places all the time. There’s 14 million people here and you will always be surprised by little food joints.”

He doesn’t have to drive the freeways for hours to find new food experiences either – they’re right on his doorstep. “Close to us in Highland Park it’s traditionally a very Hispanic area, but it’s going through a gentrification, with anti-gentrification protests, but at the same time there’s a cross-pollination, with people who’ve been making tacos for years but who now have a different audience and are making vegan tacos, using things like jackfruit.

“There’s also a market I go to on Sundays called Smorgasburg and it’s basically where Instagram food trends go to, eh, begin.

They have all sorts of multi-coloured dumplings and at one point they had this thing called a Japanese raindrop cake, made with agar agar and different tea powders so it’s a completely transparent dome shape – it kind of looks like an implant. This place champions new food trends which are always interesting to see, but with the more crazy things, we need to distill them so we don’t feel like we’ve joined a cult, and make them more adaptable to normal life.”

Last December, normal life changed abruptly for Donal and Sofie when they welcomed baby Noah. His arrival put paid to what had been the busy no-routine routine they’d enjoyed until then. “We make an effort to sit down with him at dinner time now. He sets our routine really.”

Noah was involved in Donal’s latest book, right from the start. “I remember being in an Airbnb when we went to LA first and

going down to the supermarket, thinking ‘I’ve got a pan, what can I make?’ so I got six ingredients and said ‘Right, this is my dinner’ and it was delicious, delivering what I needed in time. That was the initial reason for doing Meals in Minutes, but in the throes of submitting it to the publisher, Noah was born and I had a new realisation of the importance of having meals in minutes.

“He arrived in December, the book was due in February but I didn’t get to complete it until April or May, which turned out to be a good thing because I got to tweak things. The book is dedicated to him because it’s the first one he’s been around for.”

Having a baby imposes new routines on all parents, but one you might not associate with a social media savvy type like Donal is writing a shopping list. “You know what?

I think I read that in one of Delia Smith’s cookbooks years ago and scoffed at it, but I can tell you it does save time. A lot of the meals in the book are about throwing stuff in the basket and having dinner quick, but when you dive a little deeper and you want your family to eat better and you want dinner to come together a lot quicker, having a shopping list is the way forward.

“It’s not only about a shopping list, though – at home, I’m religious about my meal plan. I need to know what it is on a Sunday night, so if there’s an opportunity to cook some pasta or grains or roast off some vegetables, it just makes life easier.

Your future self will thank you for it. It goes back to one of my previous books, where I talk about rituals and routines.

Everyone goes through highs and lows in life, and times when they are really busy or not so busy, so having something that runs consistently through all of that – and food is that for me – makes you feel more in control.”

Becoming a father has got Donal thinking about the future in a way he didn’t really have to do in the past. “Like anyone who has moved away from home knows, you’re almost setting up shop from scratch again. You make a much greater

“We make an effort to sit down with him at dinner time now. He sets our routine really.”

Donal with his wife Sofie and baby boy Noah

effort to create a network for yourself. It’s been a good thing, because at 32, you start getting set in your ways.”

Donal says the success of his move to LA is down to absorbing the influences of the area they’re living in. “There is of course an Irish community here,” he says, “and we’re friends with some Irish people – I message with Victoria Smurfit all the time, but because we’ve always travelled and immersed ourselves in new places, we’ve learned that if you only see other Irish people, you don’t fully experience a city.

“We’ve some lovely friends here that we met through YouTube, the TV shows, through food and since Noah was born, there’s now also parenting friends. Sofie has signed me up for classes where I ended up singing along to a ukulele player under a tree and a baby swimming class, singing Row, Row, Row your Boat, walking around in the pool. Mortified!

“Noah takes up a lot of our time now, of course, but I was doing a lot of paddleboarding and most weekends we try to go to the beach. My biggest obsession, though, is finding the next food place that has just opened up. I follow a website called LA Eater ridiculously closely. Even now, when I’m not there, I’m checking on what’s going on and what new openings I’ve missed! Yesterday, I was disgusted to find out that a Thai barbecue joint had opened ten minutes from our house and I’d heard nothing about it.

“To be honest, when we lived in Howth, we were in a little bubble, whereas in LA, I find we do much more on the weekends.”

Donal Skehan’s Meals in Minutes (Hodder & Stoughton) is in bookshops now

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10/25/2018 11:44:52 AM

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Indian butter chicken Serves 6 Large bowl Heavy-based pan with lid FOR THE CHICKEN 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 150g natural yoghurt 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 2cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated 1 teaspoon garam masala Good pinch of chilli powder Squeeze of lemon juice 600g skinless and boneless chicken (breasts and/or thigh), cubed FOR THE CURRY Knob of butter (15g) ¼ cinnamon stick (or use a pinch of ground cinnamon) 5 cardamom pods, cracked 3 whole cloves 3cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled

and grated 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1-2 green finger chillies, finely chopped 400g passata 400g sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed 1 teaspoon garam masala 2 tablespoons dried fenugreek leaves (optional) Good pinch of caster sugar 2 handfuls of baby spinach 2-3 tablespoons double cream Sea salt and black pepper METHOD Put the oil, yoghurt, garlic, ginger, spices and lemon juice into a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add the chicken pieces and turn to coat in the marinade. If you have time, cover with cling-film and marinate in the fridge for 2 to 12 hours.

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2

Place a heavy-based pan over a high heat and cook the chicken until it starts to char and blacken slightly, turning occasionally. Set aside and wipe out the pan so you can make the sauce.

Melt the butter in the pan and gently fry the whole spices over a medium heat for a minute then add the ginger, garlic and chillies and fry for a minute more. Add the passata, sweet potatoes and 100ml water and season well. Cover and simmer over a low heat for 10 minutes.

Add the cooked chicken with the garam masala, dried fenugreek leaves, if using, and sugar. Mix well, cover again and simmer gently for 5 minutes, adding a bit more water if you think it needs it. Add the spinach, cover and cook for a further 5 minutes to wilt the spinach. Stir in the cream, check the seasoning and serve.

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4

Donal says: “Butter chicken is traditionally a dish of two parts: chicken marinated and grilled for that deep, smokey flavour and a rich, creamy spiced sauce.

In this one-pot version, I’ve added sweet potatoes to create a simplified crowdpleasing meal. If you have time, the chicken will benefit from some time sitting in the marinade so if you are meal planning, this is an ideal recipe to make ahead”

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10/30/2018 3:00:37 PM

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taste Donal says: "The paste you make for this pad Thai is key; for best results use a pestle and mortar or blitz in a food processor. Do try and source coriander roots (i.e. not just the stalks) – they have a fresh aromatic taste, which will transport you to the streets of Bangkok and sing through this humble noodle dish”

Recipes from Meals in Minutes

by Donal Skehan (Hodder & Stoughton) £25

Veggie pad Thai Serves 4 Pestle and mortar or food processor Wok or large non-stick frying pan Kitchen tongs 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 courgette, spiralised or finely julienned 1 green pepper, very thinly sliced 1 large carrot, spiralised or finely julienned 6 spring onions, thinly sliced 100g beansprouts 250g packet of ready-cooked flat rice noodles 3 tablespoons fish sauce 1 tablespoon soft light brown sugar

24

2 large free-range eggs, beaten Good handful of salted peanuts, roughly chopped Good handful each of coriander, Thai basil and Thai mint 25g roasted salted peanuts, finely chopped Lime wedges, to serve FOR THE PAD THAI PASTE 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped Good handful of coriander, leaves and roots or stalks 1 red chilli, deseeded and roughly chopped Zest and juice of 2 limes METHOD Using a pestle and mortar or food processor, make a paste from the garlic, coriander, red chilli and lime zest (reserve the juice).

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Heat the oil in a wok or a large nonstick frying pan over a high heat. When

the oil is just at smoking point, add in the paste and fry for about 1 minute until it

becomes aromatic. Add the vegetables and half the spring onions and

beansprouts and stir-fry to coat in the

paste for 5 minutes, or until just tender.

3

Add the noodles and mix through. Add the reserved lime juice, fish sauce,

brown sugar and cook for 2 minutes.

4

Pour in the beaten egg and mix through the noodles until just cooked

– the trick here is to allow the eggs to slightly set before mixing.

5

Using tongs, twist the noodles onto plates and garnish with the remaining

spring onions and beansprouts, herbs, chopped peanuts and lime wedges.

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10/30/2018 3:02:03 PM

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THE

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Christmas dinner, by which stage it has developed the unmistakable savoury bite of a top-class Cheddar.

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The blue veining has a bit of crunch, giving an interesting contrast of textures and flavours.

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A 1

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Christmas fare

BORED of the

BIRD?

purposes. To prepare, make an incision in the centre of the pork loin and stuff. Score the skin and season with salt and pepper – a little tip is to brush the skin with white wine vinegar for super crispy crackling. Place either a wire rack or bed of vegetables into your roasting dish and set the meat down on that. This will ensure that the heat disperses and that the meat is evenly cooked.

Cover the bones with tinfoil and place the roasting dish into an oven pre-heated to 200°C. Cook for 45 minutes per kilo of meat.

Venison is such a wonderful winter meat and works brilliantly as a Wellington with mushroom, spinach and juniper berry duxelles (a cooked mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, onion & herbs). Sear the venison loin in a very hot pan with salt, pepper, thyme and garlic. Layer the duxelles mixture on top and cover with puff pastry. Place into a hot oven and cook for 25-30 minutes at 200°C. Game birds such as partridge and pheasant are also ideal sizes for two people and perfect for a special meal. Brown your chosen birds in a pan, then place into a 180°C oven with a knob of butter and baste every five minutes. Cook for 8-10 minutes for a pink breast on patridge and 15-20 minutes for a pink breast on pheasant. We recommend removing the legs and continuing to cook them for a further 10-20 minutes. You need to watch them like a hawk as there is very little fat content so they can go from rare to overcooked very quickly (your butcher will be happy to advise further!). As an accompaniment, bread sauce is a classic and works really well with game.

Why not make like they do on the Mediterranean and serve a spectacular seafood platter? The Feast of the Seven Fishes is celebrated on Christmas Eve and stems from the long tradition of abstaining from meat on the eve of a feast day. Create a seafood feast using Dublin Bay prawns, lobster, crab claws, oysters, smoked salmon and some fish roe or caviar to make it extra special. Our suggested dips are sweet mustard and dill mayo, roast garlic butter, basil aïoli and smokey sriracha mayo. Serve with proper Irish soda bread and a fennel salad with lemon zest and juice, olive oil and tarragon.

If you are going veggie, or if you’re catering for vegetarian guests, this is our pick for a delicious Christmas meal – sweet potato, kohlrabi and celeriac bake with chestnuts and cranberries and topped with crispy toasted coconut and cumin seeds. To accompany it, try a coconut yoghurt, garlic and fresh coriander dressing.

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W

4

1

5

hile for some, Christmas lunch without turkey is unthinkable, each year more people are turning to alternatives as the centrepiece for their festive feast. After all, the most important meal of the year deserves a magical meat that you will enjoy cooking and serving. Whether you’re cooking for two or for a crowd, Fallon & Byrne have got some truly stunning and mouth-watering alternatives for you to choose from. The turkey can go and stuff it!

Go all out with a Côte de Boeuf (we can age your beef to order at our butcher counters) with a pink peppercorn crust which will look fabulous at the centre of your table. Before cooking, make sure to leave the meat out of the fridge for at least one hour to bring up to room temperature. Sear in a hot pan with plenty of salt, pepper, thyme and garlic for four minutes each side, as well as on the sides. Heat the oven to 180°C and cook the beef for four minutes for rare, eight minutes for medium and 20 minutes for well done. The most important part of the process is to ensure that you rest the meat before carving, for a minimum of five minutes in a warm place. Use any leftovers to make roast beef sandwiches to enjoy after a brisk St Stephen’s Day walk.

Rack of pork is a real showstopper and makes a great lunch for a crowd. At Christmas, we like to luxe ours up by stuffing with chestnuts, apple and sage. We recommend asking your butcher to French trim your rack of pork for presentation

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Note: all timings are approximate and will vary depending on the type of oven.

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THE

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of food We’ve rounded up some of the best gift ideas from Irish companies and abroad to bring a smile to the foodie in your life this Christmas

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10/30/2018 3:03:34 PM

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the

SCHOOL FOR

scallions Neven Maguire’s latest publication, Home Economics for Life, champions the skills that many of us might have learned at school. Donal O’Donoghue goes back to class at Blacklion Cookery School

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The school for scallions

T

he first thing I notice is the set of knives. They look awful big and fearfully sharp.

Chef Neven Maguire says he wants to teach me some basic knife skills. This, I will discover, does not involve throwing them at a spinning woman; rather, it’s the more conventional chore of cutting up an onion.

After a few minutes, I realise it would have been much safer for me to be throwing them at that woman. “Curve your fingers!” warns Neven, before cracking the first of many jokes. “Otherwise the soup might not be totally vegetarian.”

It’s mid-afternoon at the Neven Maguire Cookery School in Blacklion. I’m the sole student but Neven has his hands full. Even the task of donning an apron takes a few minutes. Neven looks at me doubtfully, a look that I will get used in the next hour or so. “Are you right?” asks the man who I’ve started to call Sir, which I figure will be good for a laugh. Neven looks unsure.

“Maybe just call me Neven,” says Neven.

But he is the teacher after all, as well as the author of the book, Home Economics for Life, a smart production which comes with the tag-line 'Get ready to go back to school with Neven.’ So I did.

Back in the early 1980s when I sat my Leaving Certificate for real, Domestic Science (as it was known then) was strictly for girls. So while the girls baked cakes and got covered in flour, the boys did something manly like PE. Some ten years later, at his school in Manorhamilton, a young Neven Maguire became the first boy at his alma mater to don the apron. He must have got an all merciful ribbing. “Aw not really,” says Neven, who’s just too nice. “It was water off a duck’s back because I knew from the age of 12 that food was my thing. And was I terrible at woodwork and metalwork.”

Home Economics For Life is the 16th cookbook from the prolific Maguire. Like many of his previous publications, it has a personal angle, this one referencing his distinction in studying Home Economics.

Even if the slagging was fierce, it set Neven up for life. Following school, he studied catering at Fermanagh College in Enniskillen, where he won the Student of the Year Award and later worked at some of the world’s most prestigious restaurants,

“So this is a chunky soup, not blended, where you have both atin’ and drinkin’,” says Neven. He then garnishes the dish with some chopped parsley. “There “The question are three herbs I always tell people to grow if they can,” says Neven.

I’m most asked “Rosemary, thyme and parsley, which are all easy to grow as you in school is ‘How don’t need a lot of space: a bucket or container will do the trick.” do you chop an “High five!” says Neven. Sure thing, but we have to taste it yet. onion?”

Meatballs (or ‘authentic Italian meatballs in a rich tomato sauce’ as the book has it) is my next task. Neven produces a bowl of meat: part beef, part including Arzak in San Sebastian and pork, which came from his local butcher Restaurant Léa Linster, Luxembourg, across the street. “The pork gives great before taking the helm at his parents’ place, moisture and softness and this is lean MacNean House & Restaurant in 2001. beef mince with just a little fat,” he says.

So going back to school with Neven was a The recipe is for meatballs but you can challenge I couldn’t resist. also make a burger just in case you have a Two week before exam day, I get a mail change of mind midway through or you from Neven’s people. “Pick two recipes,” end up making a balls of your balls. they said. So I did, reckoning that chunky “How are my balls, Neven?” I ask, just vegetable soup and meatballs were as easy because I can. as it gets. In Home Economics for Life, Neven doesn’t answer. Instead he the recipes are preceded by a number of says: “People are sometimes a bit funny ‘How To’ tutorials, as in how to prepare about herbs.” vegetables, how to peel garlic and how to I raise my eyebrows empathically. chop an onion. I wish I’d read them before “A pinch of salt,” says Neven. So I add a meeting Neven. Instead, I bluff, saying that pinch. “A bigger pinch,” he says. So I do. it’s a very handsome book indeed. “Are you Neven likes his salt and his sweets. I add insured?” I ask Neven. “Is there a doctor in some crushed cream crackers to the meat the house?” he answers. along with some mustard.

It’s the morning of ‘my exam’. As ever, I’ve Then it’s time to add the tomato sauce. left it late, so I’m cramming. But I’ve also a “Did I make that earlier?” I ask. “Oh yes bit of a cheat sheet as I already know what you did,” says Neven with a wink (there’s a my questions will be, I have the textbook separate recipe for the sauce in the book). and on hand to help is one of Neven’s rightHome Economics for Life was not Neven’s hand women, chef Claire Beasley. We start idea but his publisher’s. “They reckoned with the chunky vegetable soup. This is a we should go back to basics,” he says. “Of recipe that was handed down to Neven by course, I am also an ambassador for Home his late mother, Vera. “Lots of pearl barley, Economics in Ireland. I really believe that lots of root vegetables,” says the chef, who every young person should learn to cook has already lined up the ingredients. “You’re and if the government made it mandatory, getting very excited,” says Neven as I check I believe it would be a great investment in out the utensils. “Connor (Neven’s fivehealth, well-being and the rest.” year-old) loves using the big knife. My wife, “More salt,” says Neven. “And don’t forget Amelda would hate that. But it’s good for to keep tasting. You have to taste.” him to learn how to use it properly.” Right The class is ended, time to go to pieces. now, I wish Connor was on hand.

Neven says I did OK. I’m just glad to still “The question I’m most asked in the have all my fingers. We ladle out the soup school is ‘How do you chop an onion?” and wolf down the meatballs which are says Neven. He demonstrates this culinary sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese. As skill and then hands me half an onion. both recipes are for four to six there’s plenty Next up are the carrots and the leeks. left over, which Claire wraps up. So it’s Neven watches closely. “It’s definitely meatballs for us (which I discover wrapped going to be a chunky soup,” he says. “We in foil boxes in the car boot the next day) can call it rustic. The trick is to cut all the and the chunky vegetable soup for Neven, vegetables to a similar size so that they Amelda and the twins, Connor and Lucia. I will cook at the same time.” I try my best. hope I won’t poison them.

“You’re a natural,” says Neven. I don’t quiz “I always say that Home Economics is a him as to what exactly I’m a natural at. skill for life,” says Neven. I nod sagely. I wish In MacNean House & Restaurant, they I had the skill but at least I’ve got a good make their own stock and Home Economics start today and I can practise with Home for Life has a section on this skill. “We’re Economics for Life. going to use induction,” says Neven, so we use rapeseed oil to sweat off the vegetables Home Economics for Life by Neven in a saucepan (“It has a higher smoke temperature to give great flavour”).

Maguire (Gill) is in bookshops now

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After seeing Donal being put through his paces, now it’s time for you to try and make these dishes at home yourself. How good are your cooking skills?

Chunky vegetable soup Serves 4–6 50g pearl barley 2 tablespoons rapeseed oil 1 onion, diced 1 carrot, diced 1 small leek, diced 2 celery sticks, diced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 50g rindless streaky bacon or raw chorizo, diced (optional) 1.2 litres chicken or vegetable stock 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO SERVE:

Brown soda bread Put the pearl barley in a sieve and rinse well under cold running water.

Heat the rapeseed oil in a pan over a medium heat.

Stir in the onion, carrot, leek, celery and thyme. Add the bacon or chorizo (if using) and sauté for 5 minutes, until the vegetables are softened and the bacon or chorizo is sizzling.

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Pour the stock into the pan, add the rinsed barley and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, until the vegetables and barley are completely tender but still holding their shape. Stir in the parsley and season to taste. To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls and hand around a separate basket of soda bread.

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TOP TIP

If you want to make this soup even more substantial, add some cooked diced chicken or leftover diced roast beef at the very end of the cooking time when you are adding the parsley.

Otherwise a drained and rinsed tin of your favourite beans or pulses is a good addition too.

Neven says: “When the weather gets cold, this is the soup I crave. It’s actually very healthy and brimming with goodness, but it certainly won’t leave you feeling deprived either. It really is a very flexible recipe and you can omit the barley if you are coeliac or substitute with brown rice if you prefer. Sometimes I add a sprinkling of Cayenne pepper to give it a kick.”

Recipes from Neven Maguire’s Home Economics for Life by Neven Maguire, published by Gill, €22.99

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The school xxxx for scallions

Meatballs Serves 4–8 225g lean minced beef 225g minced pork 25g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated 8 cream crackers, crushed into crumbs 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flatleaf parsley 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard Olive oil, for drizzling and cooking Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper TO SERVE

600ml tomato sauce (see recipe right) 500g spaghetti 50g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated Fresh basil leaves, to garnish

For the tomato sauce Makes about 600ml 1 x 400g tin of Italian whole plum tomatoes or 6 large vine-ripened tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed A pinch of caster sugar 4 fresh basil leaves (optional) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper If you’re using vine-ripened tomatoes, you’ll need to peel and de-seed them first. To peel a tomato, use a sharp knife to cut a cross at the base of the tomato, then put in a large heatproof bowl. Pour over boiling water and leave for a few seconds, until the skin near the cross starts to curl, then transfer to a bowl of cold water and peel off the skin. To remove the seeds, cut through the

1

centre of the tomato, then cut into quarters. Using a small sharp knife, cut through the flesh at the top and pull out the seeds or use a teaspoon to scoop them out.

Heat the olive oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 2-3 minutes, until softened but not coloured, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon.

Tip the tomatoes into the onion mixture and stir to combine. Add the sugar and season to taste with salt and pepper, then mash to break down the tomatoes. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 5-6 minutes, until nicely reduced and slightly thickened.

Blitz with a hand blender until smooth, then tear in the basil leaves if you’re going to use the sauce immediately.

If you want to keep the sauce for up to a week in the fridge, transfer it to a Kilner jar or a bowl covered with cling film. If you like the basil flavor, tear the leaves and stir them in just before using.

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METHOD

Place the minced beef and pork in a bowl with the Parmesan,

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cream crackers, egg, parsley and Dijon mustard. Season with salt

and pepper and use your hands to give everything a good mix. Shape into about 20 even-sized balls.

Arrange on a flat baking sheet or

tray that will fit in your fridge, drizzle over a little olive oil to lightly coat and chill for 1 hour if time allows.

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a deep-sided frying pan.

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Add the meatballs and cook for

8-10 minutes, until almost cooked

through and nicely browned. Pour in the tomato sauce and simmer

gently for another 10 minutes or so,

until the sauce has slightly reduced and thickened.

Meanwhile, plunge the spaghetti into a large pan of boiling

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salted water and simmer for 8-10

minutes, until tender but still with a

Neven says:

little bite, or as the Italians say, al

dente. Drain well and return to the

pan, then add a few ladlefuls of the tomato sauce to coat the pasta.

Divide the spaghetti between warmed pasta bowls, then

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spoon the meatballs and the rest

of the tomato sauce on top. Scatter over the Parmesan and garnish with torn basil leaves to serve.

“These authentic Italian meatballs in a rich tomato sauce are delicious piled up on spaghetti, but the meatballs are just so versatile: they are also just as good served in a rich meat gravy with mashed potatoes, or try serving them American-style by stuffing leftover meatballs and tomato sauce into a roll.”

TOP TIP

You can flash-freeze the meatballs if you want to use a little at a time. Place the raw meatballs on a baking tray spaced well apart and freeze solid before transferring to a Zip-loc bag. That way, you can use as many as you need.

Arrange them on a baking sheet or tray to thaw out for a couple of hours at room temperature before cooking off.

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AN EASTERN

TREASURE HOUSE

Introducing flavours of China since 1981, Dublin’s Asia Market in Drury Street is now the go-to place for ingredients from Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Malaysian, Korean, Philippine and Mediterranean cuisines.

Director Eva Pau, who is the second generation of her family in the business, tells Stephen Meyler how Asia Market has thrived in a changing Irish foodscape

“W Eva Pau

hen my father came from Hong Kong to set up Asia Market, he didn’t just decide to call it China Market, because he wanted to give us a lot of scope to touch on all the countries of Asia and their different foods. So we have a very large selection of foods from Korea, Japan, Thailand and the rest.

We had a refit of the store about two years ago and we have changed the old foyer, which wasn’t really used for much, into a small shop, selling coffee – we’re trying out various Hong Kong and Vietnamese versions made with condensed milk – as well as egg waffles, which are a really popular Hong Kong street food. We also have bubble tea, which a lot of Irish people are a bit wary of, but Asian people love a drink with chewy tapioca balls! We sell cookbooks here and hand in hand with the tours I do of the store, I hope it helps demystify some of the ingredients and foods that people might not have encountered before. Often after the tours, people who might have bought one or two items, like dried spices, will suddenly have all these ideas for a full recipe and the confidence to try new things.

With all our fruit and veg, we try to source locally as much as we can, so there’s a farm in Rush in north County Dublin where we get Chinese vegetables like pak choi. To have the full range, of course, we need to import from the UK or Holland. People come in looking

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An eastern treasure house

for something different here, so for example, the range of fresh mushrooms we have, you can’t really find in other supermarkets. As well as the vegetables, we try to stock as many Asian ingredients made in Ireland as we can.

So for example, we have the Donegal chef Kwanghi Chan’s black garlic paste, which is made here.

When my father started Asia Market 37 years ago, he was mainly supplying to the Asian community, but because I grew up here, I wanted to demystify Asian food and make it available for everyone. On the other hand, we didn’t want to change the store a lot, we wanted to keep it quite authentic – that’s what I wanted to preserve from what my father originally built.

But now, we have so many local Irish shoppers and I just love that they feel so excited to come and find something different. So for example, they can get lots of different types of Asian vegetables, not just the pak choi they might be used to. I think because they’ve travelled so much, their knowledge of Asian food is much greater. The feedback we’ve got during the past few years of development has been great and it really encourages me.

For me, the cultural aspects of events like Chinese New Year or the MidAutumn Festival are very important.

It’s not just a case of ‘Here are the products, thank you!’ I like to bring people on a journey, if you like, so it’s great to be able to show people not just what a mooncake is, but why we eat it during the Mid-Autumn Festival and tell them about its symbolism and meaning to Chinese people. It helps people to get to know the culture.

We continue to take on more cultural activities, so this year we had a cherry blossom festival in April, which highlighted Japanese food. Our Korean supplier has been working with the Korean government for the Taste of Korea in Ireland, which we’ve been supporting in the store. So we would have had maybe 50 Korean products, but now we have 200. It’s exciting to have so many products and then to use them in cooking demos to show people what they can do with them. For us, it’s great feedback about what people like, but also, Korean food is just so popular now – I think people find it quite easy to add into their day-to-day cooking.

We have people on our purchasing

team from different backgrounds, so when they choose particular brands to stock in the store, their thinking is, ‘Yes, that’s from home, I remember that when I was young and I’ll get that!’ That’s especially true of the snacks, but then with sauce ranges, we’ll try always to get the top brand in a particular country. We get a lot of students from Asia who might be missing home, and they get a good feeling from seeing familiar brands on the shelves.

Now in winter, the Chinese hotpot is very popular. It’s very comforting but it’s also quite easy to cook. It’s basically put a pot of soup in the middle and invite your friends around. Because you can prepare it in advance, you won’t be slaving away in the kitchen, but you can sit and enjoy the meal. You can cook lots of things in the soup – prawns, dumplings, really thinly sliced beef, lamb or pork, and vegetables which you can cook in a spoon that’s like a sieve so you can keep track of which bits are yours! The hotpot can be divided in two, so you can have half that’s spicy and half that isn’t. The main thing, though, is that you need to know how to use the chopsticks.

Nowadays people are looking for new and healthy food experiences and they are excited by food. The view of Chinese take-aways is that they are not very healthy, but authentic Chinese food is actually super healthy and super quick to make. I would usually make a stir fry with three ingredients – one meat and two vegetables – so you kind of rotate it during the week for variety. Chop all the vegetables in the morning and when you come home, it’s cooked in five minutes. Chinese food here tends to use a lot of sauce, but traditionally, you would use very little sauce.

We have gluten-free and MSG-free versions of soy and other sauces now.

We have a strong vegan community here as well as people looking for healthy food – we’ve just introduced a new vegan-friendly range of sauces from Thailand, based on coconut milk.

One that is quite interesting is a confit jackfruit, which has a texture a bit like pulled pork and you would use it in a stir-fry.”

“I like to bring people on a journey, if you like, so it’s great to be able to show people not just what a mooncake is, but why we eat it during the Mid-Autumn Festival and tell them about its symbolism and meaning to Chinese people"

What is a mooncake?

Mooncakes are traditional Chinese pastries which are eaten at family gatherings during the Mid-Autumn Festival, a time when families traditionally get together to celebrate the harvest. They’re named after the moon goddess Chang’e, and are made as an offering to the moon. In Chinese culture, the full moon is a symbol of prosperity and mooncakes signify completeness and togetherness.

Mooncakes are small, measuring between 5cm and 10cm, with a pastry crust and a sweet, dense filling. At the centre of the mooncake is a salted egg yolk to symbolise the full moon.

They are usually sliced into wedges and served with Chinese tea.

Mooncakes come in many different flavours, including lotus seed paste, mixed nuts, fruit and green tea, walnut and black sesame seed, and musang king durian. They are usually presented in beautiful gift boxes, and Chinese people buy them as presents for friends and family to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Photo by Yujin Jung

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A feast

like no other!

Looking for delicious Christmas dinner ideas?

Search no further: we’ve gathered some of the best recipes, from appetisers to mains to side dishes, to make your meal as special as the day itself

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10/25/2018 11:49:01 AM

A feast like no other!

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taste Starter

Watercress, blood orange & Toonsbridge mozzarella salad Serves 4 A bunch of fresh watercress 2-3 balls of fresh Toonsbridge mozzarella 2 blood oranges 2-3 tablespoons Irish honey A good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil Coarsely ground black pepper Coarsely chopped roasted hazelnuts Sprigs of fresh flat-leaf parsley

METHOD Just before serving, scatter a few watercress leaves over the base of each plate, warm the mozzarella (see the top tip) then slice or tear some over each plate. With a sharp knife, remove the peel and pith from the blood oranges. Cut into 5mm thick slices and tuck a few here and there in between the watercress and mozzarella.

Drizzle with honey and really good extra virgin olive oil. Finally, add a little coarsely cracked fresh black pepper, sprinkle with coarsely chopped roasted hazelnuts and a few sprigs of flat-leaf parsley and serve.

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2

TOP TIP

Put the balls of mozzarella into a thick plastic bag and drop in simmering water for 3 or 4 minutes. This transforms the mozzarella to a melting tenderness.

Darina says: “The rich West Cork pasture that the buffaloes feed on gives the Toonsbridge mozzarella its quintessentially Irish taste. A few beautiful fresh ingredients put together simply make an irresistible starter”

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A feast like no other!

Main Event

Darina says: “A perfectly glazed ham always looks stunning, but loin of bacon is ideal for this recipe too and is much easier to carve”

Glazed ham with mango relish Serves 12-15 1 x 4.5–5.4kg fresh or lightly smoked ham (make sure it has a nice layer of fat) 60-80 whole cloves, depending on the size of the diamonds 350-450g Demerara sugar 1 small tin of pineapple (use 75-125ml of the juice) FOR THE MANGO RELISH 50ml medium sherry 50ml white wine vinegar 50ml water 2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons salt 2 cinnamon sticks 1 star anise Pinch of ground mace 1 mango, peeled and diced 1 small red pepper, seeded and diced 1 tablespoon lemon juice

METHOD If the ham is salty, soak it in cold water overnight. The next day, discard the water. Cover the ham with fresh cold water and bring it slowly to the boil. If the meat is still salty, there will be a white froth on top of the water. In this case, it is preferable to discard this water, cover the ham with fresh cold water again and repeat the process.

Finally, cover the ham with hot water and simmer until it is almost cooked.

Allow 25 minutes for each 450g for ham, 20 minutes for a loin of bacon.

Meanwhile, make the mango relish. Put the sherry, vinegar, water, sugar, salt, cinnamon, star anise and mace into a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan.

Bring to a boil and simmer over a

1

2

medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the mango, red pepper and lemon juice, lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes more. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Spoon into a screwtop jar and refrigerate until required.

Pre-heat the oven to 250°C/475°F/gas mark 9. Peel the rind off the ham, cut the fat into a diamond pattern and stud each diamond with a whole clove. Blend the brown sugar to a paste with a little pineapple juice. Be careful not to make it too liquid.

Spread this over the ham. Bake it in the hot oven for 20 minutes, or until the top has caramelised. While it is glazing, baste regularly with the syrup and juices. Serve hot or cold with mango relish.

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10/25/2018 12:18:13 PM

taste Side dish

Gratin of swede turnips & potatoes with thyme leaves, smoked bacon & Parmesan Serves 8-10 Butter, for greasing the dish 450g swede, peeled and sliced into 5mm thick slices 450g potatoes, peeled and sliced into 3mm thick slices 1 tablespoon olive oil 110g lardons of smoked or unsmoked bacon 1 teaspoon thyme leaves 110g grated Parmesan Salt and freshly ground pepper 350ml cream or chicken stock METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/350°F/ gas mark 4. Line 2 trays with tea towels. Grease a 1.5 litre ovenproof gratin dish with a light smear of butter.

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and season with a good pinch of salt. Drop in the sliced turnips, bring back to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. The turnips will have tenderised slightly but will not be fully cooked. Strain out the turnips, reserving the water for cooking the potatoes. Place the turnips on one of the trays lined with a tea towel.

Bring the water back to the boil and add the sliced potatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook for 1 minute only. Strain and rinse under the cold tap and place on the other tray lined with a tea towel, like the turnips.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and add the bacon lardons. Cook, stirring, until the bacon is crisp and golden. Strain out the bacon with a slotted spoon and place on a piece of kitchen paper to drain.

To assemble the gratin, place a layer of the turnips and potatoes in the greased gratin dish, followed by a sprinkle of thyme leaves, a sprinkle of bacon lardons and a sprinkle of the grated Parmesan. Season with

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Darina says: “My brother Rory O’Connell makes this robust warming gratin with one of my favourite winter vegetables, the cheap and cheerful swede. This least glamorous of the turnip family brings back happy childhood memories”

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salt and pepper and splash on a little of the cream or stock. Repeat the layers, finishing the gratin with a final sprinkle of Parmesan.

Set the gratin dish in a roasting tin and pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the dish (a bain-marie). Place in the pre-heated oven and cook for 60-80 minutes. After 60 minutes, test the

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From A Simply Delicious Christmas

by Darina Allen, published by Gill books.

gratin with a skewer to see if the potatoes and turnips are tender.

The skewer should go through the vegetables with no resistance and the top of the gratin should be a rich golden colour.

The cooked gratin will sit happily in the oven for an hour before serving if you reduce the temperature to 50°C/120°F/gas mark ¼

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A feast like no other!

Starter

Tomato tart Tarte à la tomate Serves 6 8–12 tomatoes (a mixture of colours is nice) 200g puff pastry 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon polenta 1 tablespoon thyme leaves About 1 tablespoon good olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method Slice the tomatoes 5mm thick and lay them out on a rack.

Sprinkle a little salt over them and leave them for 20 minutes to render excess water.

Pat the slices dry with a clean tea towel or some kitchen paper.

Pre-heat the oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/ gas 6. Roll out the puff pastry to fit a 26cm flan ring. Prick the pastry with a fork, then line it with greaseproof paper and fill it with baking beans.

Blind-bake the tart case for 20 minutes.

Remove the paper and beans and bake for another 10 minutes.

Remove the tart case from the oven. Leave the oven on. Spread the mustard over the base of the tart, then sprinkle over the polenta. Arrange the tomato slices in the tart, then season with a little pepper and the thyme leaves.

Drizzle the olive oil over the tomatoes and bake the tart for 20 minutes. Serve hot, warm or cold.

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Michel says: “Delicious any time. The richness of the pastry is offset by the light filling and the mustard adds extra flavour.

Don’t be tempted to leave out the polenta – it soaks up any juices so keeps the pastry crisp”

From The French Revolution by Michel Roux Jr, published in hardback by Seven Dials (£25)

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taste Starter

Smoked salmon & cream cheese stacks Serves 4-6

Neven says “This is a great starter to have on Christmas Day as it can be made well in advance and will sit happily in the fridge for up to 8 hours. Everyone loves the combination of smoked salmon and brown bread, and this is something just a wee bit different”

1 x 200g tub of cream cheese 2 tablespoons finely diced cucumber (peeled and deseeded) 1 tablespoon finely diced radish 1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives 2 teaspoon horseradish sauce 1 teaspoon English mustard 12-18 slices of brown soda bread (each about 3-5mm thick) 1 x 200g packet of smoked salmon slices Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper Lightly dressed mixed salad leaves, to garnish For the pickled red onion 4 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons caster sugar 1 red onion, cut into fine wedges

Method Put the cream cheese in a bowl and mix in the cucumber, radish, chives, horseradish sauce and mustard. Season to taste.

Stamp or cut out rounds from the soda bread that are each about 6cm in diameter – you’ll need three for each stack. Repeat with the smoked salmon.

To make the pickled red onion, put the vinegar in a bowl and stir in the sugar to dissolve. Add the onion wedges and toss to coat. Cover with cling-film and set aside for at least 10 minutes, or up to 8 hours is fine.

To serve, place a round of soda bread on each plate. Top each one with 1 tablespoon of the cream cheese mixture, followed by a round of smoked salmon.

Repeat until you have three layers in each stack. Add a spoonful of the pickled red onion and garnish with the salad to serve.

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A feast like no other!

Perfect Christmas gravy Makes about 500ml 1 heaped tablespoon plain flour 3 tablespoons Madeira 600ml turkey or goose stock 1 tablespoon redcurrant jelly (optional) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Neven says “A good gravy is a crucial component to the Christmas meal and many a dinner is judged on its success. It really is worth making a good stock with the giblets for the best flavour. If you haven’t got Madeira, use port or red wine instead. If you want to get ahead, make the gravy the day before using butter instead of the fat, then add it to the roasting tin and bring to a simmer for a few minutes, stirring constantly”

METHOD Pour the turkey or goose juices from the roasting tin into a jug, then spoon off 2 tablespoons of the fat (which will be floating on the top) and put this back into the unwashed tin. Spoon off any remaining fat from the cooking juices and discard.

Put the roasting tin directly on the hob over a gentle heat and stir the flour into the residue in the tin.

Cook on the hob for a minute or two, stirring, until golden. Pour in the Madeira, stirring to combine, and then gradually add the stock, stirring until smooth after each addition.

Bring to the boil and let it bubble for about 10 minutes, until reduced and thickened, stirring occasionally.

Whisk in the redcurrant jelly (if using) until dissolved, then add the skimmed juices from the roasted bird back into the gravy and season to taste.

Strain into a warmed gravy boat to serve.

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Main Event

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A feast like no other!

Neven says “This is quite a ‘cheffy’ recipe that takes a little more effort, but it keeps the breast of the bird really juicy while the leg meat literally falls off the bone. Ask your butcher to do all the work for you and make sure he chops the neck and backbone into pieces for gravy. But if it all sounds like too much work, just use this method with a turkey crown”

Salt-rubbed turkey with sage & orange Serves 8-10 150g Maldon sea salt or kosher salt 8 fresh sage leaves, chopped 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 1 tablespoon black peppercorns Finely grated rind of 4 oranges 1 x 5kg turkey, legs and thighs removed and wings cut from the breast 500g duck or goose fat 1 large onion, cut into thick slices Good handful of fresh mixed herbs, such as sage, rosemary and thyme 50g butter, softened METHOD Make the salt rub up to four days in advance. Grind the salt, sage, sugar and peppercorns in a pestle and mortar (or use the end of a rolling pin in a bowl), then stir in the orange rind. Put one-third of the salt rub into a large resealable bag and the remainder into another bag, then chill until needed. Put the turkey legs and wings into the bag and massage the salt rub into the skin, then leave in the fridge for 24 hours or at least overnight.

When you’re ready to cook, pre-heat the oven to 120°C (250°F/gas mark ½). Rinse off the salt rub and pat the legs and wings dry with kitchen paper. Put the duck or goose fat in a roasting tin large enough to just fit everything comfortably and melt in the oven for 5 minutes, then add the turkey pieces, ensuring they are submerged. Cook for 4 hours, until completely tender. Leave to cool, then cover and chill for up to three days.

The day before you want to eat, put the turkey crown into the other bag with the rest of the salt rub and massage it into the skin and flesh. Chill overnight.

One hour before you want to cook it, remove the turkey crown and rinse, then pat dry with kitchen paper. Take the legs and wings out of the fridge so that they will come easily out of the fat, then transfer to a roasting tin. You can strain out the fat to use for your roast potatoes if you like.

Pre-heat the oven to 190°C (375°F/gas mark 5) and line a separate roasting tin with foil. Set a wire rack on top of the foil-lined roasting tin and scatter over the onion and herbs. Sit the crown on top and rub all over with the butter. Roast in the oven, uncovered, for 40 minutes, then cover with foil and cook for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and cook for 15 minutes, until cooked through and tender. Transfer to a platter and cover with foil, then rest in a warm place for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, reheat the turkey legs and wings in the oven for 30 minutes, until heated through and the skin has become nice and crispy. Add to the platter with the crown and carve into slices. Arrange on warmed plates with all the trimmings.

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From Neven Maguire’s Perfect Irish Christmas by Neven Maguire, published by Gill

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Main Event

Recipe from Fresh Spice by Arun Kapil, published

by Pavilion Books.

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A feast like no other!

Pot roast pheasant, clementine &cardamo Serves 4 2 young hen pheasants at room temperature, plucked, gutted and ready to cook with all the offal removed, washed and dried, wing bones removed and tops of legs trimmed, wish bone removed 75g unsalted butter softened (and mixed with a quarter of the spice mix, see below) 15ml rapeseed oil 100g pancetta, chopped into lardons and blanched for about 3 minutes 10 slices streaky dry cure green bacon, 4mm thick 6 small shallots, peeled and trimmed, but just retaining the root 30ml Armagnac 100ml dry white wine 75ml golden fresh chicken stock

heat until hot, then set alight and pour over the birds.

When the flames have subsided, pour in the wine and stock, then sprinkle in the remaining spice blend, the clementine juice and zested clementine strips. Cover the pot with tin foil, put the lid on, place on a middle shelf in your oven and cook for 40 minutes.

Take out of the oven, remove the lid and foil and turn the birds breast ‘side’ up. Keep the foil. Return to the oven for another 10 to 20 minutes, lid off, then check to see if they’re cooked: the legs will move easily when gently tugged.

Remove the birds from the pot, set aside and cover with the retained foil. Remove the lardons and shallots from the pot with a slotted spoon, separating out and retaining the zest, set aside and rest for a good 10 minutes, keeping the lardons and shallots warm.

Strain the cooking juices from the pot, pour into a jug, skim off any excess fat and reserve. Then de-glaze the casserole, pouring in the Mandarin brandy or Grand Marnier. Set light to the liqueur, ensuring that you burn off all the alcohol. Pour the juices back into the pot, bring up to a ‘vigorous bubble’, add the cold cubed butter and the vinegar, then whisk, reduce and check the seasoning, before setting aside until you are ready to plate up. The sauce should cling slightly to the back of a spoon.

Meanwhile, remove the trussing string and the bacon. Pop the bacon onto a baking tray, place in your oven to crisp it up, maybe 5 mins at 170°C. Carve the birds, removing and jointing the legs first, then neatly cut the breasts from the carcasses and place on a roasting tray.

Flash the jointed birds under a hot grill for 30 seconds or so.

Trim the bird joints to neaten them up.

Pour the collected, wonderful cooking juices from the ‘flashed’ tray through a sieve into the sauce. Finish off your sauce by reheating, adding the clementine segments and only just warming through, to make sure you retain the integrity and freshness of the segments. Assemble all the remaining components so it is visually attractive.

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Spice mix: 1 tsp juniper, 1 tsp cubeb, 1 tsp fennel, ½tsp green cardamom seeds, ¼tsp Szechuan pepper, 1 star anise, 1 tsp powdered cassia, freshly ground and mixed together

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½ teaspoon sea salt 3 clementines, blanched, zested into strips, reserving zest, then peeled, cut into clean segments reserving the segments, squeeze juice from the pith into small bowl 30ml Mandarin Napoleon or Grand Marnier 40g unsalted butter, cubed and kept chilled Drizzle of best quality cider vinegar to taste or lemon juice 50g white sugar and 40ml water, heated and melted into a sugar syrup

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Method Turn your oven to 180°C (350°F/gas mark 4). Season the bird well inside and out, then cover generously with the spiced butter. Lay the bacon rashers over the breast meat, then truss to secure the bacon in place.

Take a large casserole, place on the hob on a medium heat. Pour in the oil and brown the bacon-wrapped pheasants all over, then set aside. Pop the pancetta and shallots into the pot and cook until lightly browned. Then take off the heat and place the pheasants back in the pot, sitting on their backs.

Pour the Armagnac into a small pan,

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GOOD ENOUGH TO

WATCH! Grab a fork and settle on the couch.

There’s been an explosion of food shows in the past year, enough to prompt anyone to dust off an apron and try their hand at gourmet cuisine at home. Janice Butler picks some of the best on TV at the moment and due to air over Christmas

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Food on TV

Chef's Table

Chef’s Table – Netflix

Maybe you don’t want to learn how to cook at all. If you’d prefer an abstract, artsy vibe with some spectacular food photography, try Chef ’s Table, a Netflix docuseries that takes you into the kitchens of the most interesting and celebrated chefs in the world. It is not a show that will make you think, ‘Wow, I should cook more,’ and it will not make great food feel particularly attainable, but it is utterly mesmerising. These chefs are doing remarkable things with food and the meals they create are beautiful. Chef ’s Table is more about what you see than the food you eat.

will be presenting her ultimate guide to making everything from wreaths and garlands, snow globes and even gingerbread as well as handy tips on dressing a show-stopping Christmas tree and of course, perfect present wrapping.

Meals in Minutes

Meals in Minutes – RTÉ One

Chef's Table

Best Christmas Food Ever – BBC One

Chef Paul Ainsworth and our own Catherine Fulvio are to host this festive extravaganza to be shown in the two weeks before Christmas on BBC One. Bringing culinary expertise and warmth, the duo aim to create a fun tone to the show. In each episode, Paul and Catherine will prepare seasonal dishes and all their accompaniments worthy of the Christmas table. The first dish in each show could be a show-stopping dish or a quick but tasty recipe for last-minute festive entertaining. The second dish will be inspired by an ingredient which epitomises the 12 tastes of Christmas for the hosts. The final dish will be a recipe close to the heart of the celebrity guest who appears on each episode.

Kirstie’s Handmade Christmas – Channel 4

Queen of all things handmade, Kirstie Allsopp returns with two festive specials full of gorgeous treats and inspiration for a thoroughly crafty Christmas. Kirstie

Donal Skehan’s Meals in Minutes recently returned to RTÉ One and will run until the middle of December with a Christmas special to end the series. Since the last series, Donal’s life has changed greatly, as he reveals in our interview on page 20. Not only has he planted roots in California, but he has also welcomed baby Noah into his life. This new adventure has taught Donal the value of quick, tasty and nutritious meals on the go and he wants to share his knowledge with his Irish viewers.

In each episode of the ten-part series, Donal focuses on a variety of themes, from ‘Weeknight Meals’ to ‘Easy Prep Meals’, that are aimed to fit into modern life. For a tasty treat at the end of the series, Donal has created quick, easy and festive Christmas meals that will be sure to go down a treat. The Christmas special will show Irish viewers warm winter recipes that can impress your guests and allow you to enjoy the festivities without slaving in the kitchen all day.

The Mind of a Chef – Netflix

Made by Anthony Bourdain's production house and narrated by the late Bourdain himself, Mind of a Chef is an insight to the lives of some top-class chefs, including David Chang, Gabrielle Hamilton and Ed Lee. In the show, the chefs recreate their pioneering recipes for the camera and discover food culture around the globe, giving a nuanced look inside the mind of chefs and what makes them tick.

Nailed it!

Nailed It! – Netflix

Sure, culinary series that feature chef extraordinaires can be exciting to watch for those of us who aren’t quite as talented in the kitchen, but throwing totally unqualified bakers into a dessert-decorating competition is really entertaining too. Nailed It! takes individuals who claim to be a whizz in the kitchen, even if they are in reality, quite mediocre cooks, and challenges them to recreate beautiful sweets to win prize money. Hosted by comedian Nicole Byer and pastry chef Jacques Torres, the show is a mix of hilarity and serious appreciation for the pastrymaker’s craft, so even as the hapless contestants struggle with their gourmet creations, it’s fun for us to watch.

Rory O’Connell’s Christmas Special

We have been given the inside scoop that award-winning author Rory O’Connell is once again bringing some delicious recipes to RTÉ TV this Christmas. His popular series How To Cook Well will be back on screens over Christmas with a festive twist to deliver a selection of elegant dishes. Explaining what inspires him to cook, Rory says: “Food was utterly central to the festivities. We adored our mother’s food and life-long precious memories were gifted to us by the food that she created and the glow of love that accompanied those wonderful meals.”

Sugar Rush – Netflix

Fans of beautiful sweet eats and competitive cooking shows can get their fix from this Netflix original. In Sugar Rush, teams of pastry chefs compete against the clock and each other to construct a series of confections in just a matter of hours. Finish in less than the allotted time and they’ll have rollover minutes for other rounds. The teams are judged by professional bakers Adriano Zumbo and Candace Nelson, so if you have a taste for insane cupcakes and impossibly beautiful fondant-ified cakes, this is the reality show for you.

Sugar Rush

Kirstie’s Handmade Christmas

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Simply Darina

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Simply Darina

The chef and co-founder of Ballymaloe Cookery School has just published a collection of her favourite recipes through the years. Darina Allen chats to Janice Butler about life in Ballymaloe after Myrtle, turning 70 and growing old gracefully

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arina Allen’s first TV show, Simply Delicious, aired in March 1989. Sporting trademark red glasses, the chef showcased tried and tested Ballymaloe favourites and encouraged us to use fresh, local ingredients. She laughs now, looking back on those times, that people barely used garlic in Ireland. “When I started the Simply Delicious series, people maybe would have cooked with some parsley and they might have had chives or thyme and that was it. You couldn’t even buy fresh herbs in supermarkets. We started the school in 1983 and even garlic wouldn’t have been widely used. We’ve come a long way since then.”

When I catch up with Darina to talk about her new book, Simply Delicious – The Classic Collection, featuring some of her most popular recipes from the early years, the Ballymaloe teaching legend is taking a well-earned break in west Cork. It’s been a busy year, as always, in the cookery school and she also reached the significant milestone of 70 during the summer.

Since our conversation, the Allen family have been tested by the arrest of Rachel’s 18-year-old son Joshua (Darina’s grandson) for possession of marijuana. But when I talk to Darina, there’s a real sense that this is a family that pulls together. She tells me she feels “incredibly blessed” to have all 11 grandchildren living so close to her in Cork. The family are also mourning the death of the matriarch and Darina’s mother-in-law, Myrtle Allen, in June.

A world-renowned cook, a trail-blazer for Irish food and founder of Ballymaloe House, Myrtle was 94 when she passed. Darina says she was “hale and hearty” to the end. Loved by her extended family and staff, her six children and their spouses, 22 grandchildren and 36 greatgrandchildren, Darina says that despite Myrtle’s great modesty, she was proud of the impact her life and work had on the Irish food industry.

“I do think she realised towards the end that she was loved and esteemed by so many people from the cooking community, as well as people involved in tourism, for the changes she made to perceptions of the country and its food.”

Darina herself is grateful for all that Myrtle did to help her in her career. “How lucky am I that our paths crossed? Myrtle was

extraordinary and I loved her. She was such a support to me at every stage along the way.”

This new book, The Classic Collection has been requested by fans of Darina’s recipes for some time. “There’s been so many requests over the years for the Simply Delicious books which are out of print for quite a while – I hear stories of arguments in families over who has borrowed a book and never brought it back!

“So we picked 100 classic recipes from four of the Simply Delicious books. What was really interesting was how they’ve stood up to the test of time. My whole idea with the recipes at the time was that they were easy to do with ingredients that were easily found but also encouraged people to go out of their way to get fresh, seasonal produce.”

While there are many more ingredients available and our knowledge of food is as big as the internet, Darina is still concerned about how we eat and the types of food we choose.

“People have gotten busier and busier and the reality of it is that both parents have to work. I don’t know how people keep all the balls in the air,” she says.

“But I feel really strongly about holding onto that one family meal a day, where everyone sits down without the mobile phones. The food we eat ourselves and feed to our family is so hugely important to our health. When you lose the family meal so much is lost; even if you’re arguing, you’re keeping the lines of communication open,” she adds.

“People will say, what would I know…I have money to buy expensive food, but it’s really not about that. I will always encourage people to grow some produce: it doesn’t cost much and you get to take back a bit of control. We all make time and money for what we think is important.”

Darina has fond memories of her own childhood in Co Laois and the food her mother cooked, crediting her for instilling a love of home cooking in Darina and her eight siblings. “Mummy absolutely loved to cook and if ever there was a woman who knew the importance of feeding the family well, it was my mother. Her generation knew that you had to feed the family well, to nourish them and get them through the winter, so you weren’t giving the money to the doctor or the chemist and that was engrained in all of us. She was a very

“How lucky am I that our paths crossed. Myrtle was extraordinary and I loved her. She was such a support to me at every stage along the way” Darina with daughter in law Rachel and her late Mother-in-law Myrtle

good home cook, so we were terribly lucky. We would come home for lunch during school and there was always a stew or colcannon or a bit of fish waiting on us and dessert, lovely steamed puddings in the winter – that’s what memories are made of.”

Darina turned 70 this summer and she is happy to report feeling very comfortable in her own skin, a position she says, that she doesn’t take for granted. “I feel sad for people who are tormented by growing old, so I feel it’s a blessing to be happy in my skin and let nature take its course,” she laughs. “I’ve been fortunate not to be the least bit fussed about getting older. Of course, there are advantages and disadvantages to getting older and obviously, you have lots of wrinkles, but I don’t care. To me, they’re honourable scars: I am what I am and it’s the w ay nature intended. I don’t look 18 and that’s fine, but I feel 18 and I’m very lucky that I still have lots of energy.”

She has no plans to retire from teaching at the cookery school which she runs with her brother Rory and daughter-in-law Rachel, but she does intend to take things at a slightly slower pace. “I’m lucky I have an amazing team in place there. Rachel, Rory and my son Toby all look after the school.

“I want to spend a bit more time doing the things I didn’t have time for before. I want to do more podcasts, meet more wonderful food people and my great passion is food production, so I’d like to give that more time; I’ve so much I’d still like to do.”

Simply Delicious – The Classic Collection by Darina Allen (Kyle Books) is in bookshops on September 27. taste

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Darina says: “Celery gets a bad rap but at Ballymaloe we cook it in lots of exciting ways – I love this wintery soup, light and delicious garnished with creamy crumbly blue cheese and some toasted hazelnuts”

VARIATION

For a vegetarian version substitute the chicken stock with vegetable stock and for a vegan option, use extra virgin olive oil instead of butter and omit the milk, cream and cheese.

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Simply Darina

Winter celery soup with Cashel Blue & toasted hazelnuts Serves 8-10 600g celery, finely chopped 45g salted butter 150g potatoes, peeled and cut into 5mm dice 150g onions, chopped 850ml homemade chicken stock 150-300ml creamy milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper For the garnish A few tablespoons whipped cream 2 tablespoons Cashel Blue or Crozier Blue cheese, crumbled 2 tablespoons hazelnuts, skinned, toasted and coarsely chopped Sprigs of chervil or flat-leaf parsley Method Use a potato peeler to remove the strings from the outside stalks of the celery and save to use in stock.

Melt the butter in a heavybottomed saucepan. When it foams, add the potatoes, onions and celery; toss in the butter until evenly coated. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Cover with a paper lid (to keep in the steam) and the saucepan lid and sweat over a gentle heat for about 10 minutes until the vegetables are soft but not coloured. Add the chicken stock and simmer for 10-12 minutes until the celery is fully cooked.

Liquidise the soup, add a little more creamy milk or stock to thin to the required consistency.

Season to taste.

Serve the soup piping hot with a little blob of whipped cream on top. Sprinkle with the crumbled Cashel Blue, coarsley chopped hazelnuts and sprigs of chervil or flat-leaf parsley.

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Darina says: “This casserole roasting technique is a totally brilliant way of cooking not only turkey, but also chicken, pheasant and guinea fowl. You’ll have lots of flavourful juices as the base for a delicious sauce.

This whole dish can be prepped ahead, covered and reheated. Use the turkey carcass and giblets if you have them. There are several varieties of marjoram; the one we use for this recipe is the annual sweet or knotted marjoram, Origanum majorana”

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Simply Darina

Turkey baked with marjoram Serves 12-14 1 x 4.5-5.4kg organic, free-range turkey 2-3 sprigs marjoram 110g salted butter, softened 4 tablespoons freshly chopped marjoram, plus extra to garnish 900ml single cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4.

If time allows, brine the turkey overnight, it’s so worthwhile for the extra depth of flavour. The next day, drain and dry. Remove the wishbone from the neck end of the turkey for ease of carving. Also remove the fat from the vent end, season the cavity with salt and freshly ground pepper and stuff with the sprigs of fresh marjoram – there’s no need for extra salt if the turkey has been brined.

Smear the breast and legs of the turkey with 55g butter. Put the turkey breast-side down into a large casserole and cook over a gentle heat for 6-8 minutes or until the skin on the breast turns golden. Turn the other way up and smear with half the chopped marjoram, mixed with the remaining butter. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Cover with greaseproof paper and a tight-fitting lid. Cook for 2-2½ hours. Check if the turkey is cooked; the juices should be clear and there should be no trace of pink between the thigh and the breast.

Remove the turkey to a carving dish and leave to rest while the sauce is being made. De-grease the cooking juices, add the light cream, bring to the boil, taste and reduce if necessary to strengthen the flavour. Add the remaining chopped marjoram. Add the juices from the carving dish to the sauce. Season to taste.

Carve the turkey and nap with the sauce. Garnish with freshly chopped marjoram.

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Photography by Peter Cassidy

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From the

Ashes F Meghan Markle, aka the Duchess of Sussex, has launched a charity cookbook to raise money for survivors of the Grenfell Tower Fire in June 2017, in which 72 people died.

Together: Our Community Cookbook features recipes from women who are part of the Hubb Community Kitchen, which was created to provide for the hundreds of residents who were left homeless following the fire

or her first solo project since she became a member of the British royal family. Meghan Markle chose Together: Our Community Cookbook, showcasing more than 50 recipes created by women from the Grenfell community to celebrate the power of cooking to bring people together. The Hubb Community Kitchen evolved after a group of women displaced by the fire gathered in the Al Manaar Muslim Cultural Heritage Centre in west London last summer to prepare fresh food for their families, friends and neighbours. As they cooked together and shared recipes, word spread of the venture and more women joined in. The duchess visited in January and has continued to make regular private visits. In a foreword to the book, she describes being inspired by the women and their passion for cooking as a way of strengthening communities, as well as empowering women at a local level. She says the kitchen is transforming lives and communities through cooking. Describing her first visit, she writes that she asked how she could help. “An apron was quickly wrapped around me, I pushed up my sleeves and I found myself washing the rice for lunch …All the aromas percolating in a kitchen filled with countless languages aflutter remains one of my most treasured memories from my first visit to the kitchen.” The book, which features the women’s personal recipes from across Europe, the eastern Mediterranean, the Middle East and North Africa, is on sale now. Here’s a little flavour of what’s inside.

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From the ashes

Faiza says: “As soon as I heard about the Kitchen, I volunteered to help, cooking recipes from my homeland, Algeria. This cake is one my Mum used to make.

She always said plums are an unreliable fruit – they can be quite sour when raw. This brings out the best in them.”

Caramelised plum upside-down cake Recipe by Faiza Hayani Bellili Serves 8-10 2 teaspoons sunflower oil, for greasing 300g granulated sugar 100g unsalted butter, very soft ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon salt 8 plums, halved and stoned 40g dark brown soft sugar 2 eggs, beaten 25g cornflour 50g ground almonds 100g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 170°C. Grease a 23cm round spring-form cake tin with the sunflower oil and place on a baking sheet.

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For the caramel, put 225g of the granulated sugar into a small, wide, heavy pan on a low heat. Without stirring, let the sugar dissolve completely.

Once liquid, let it gently bubble for 1520 minutes or until it is a deep golden colour. Add 10g of the butter, half the vanilla extract and the salt, gently swirling the pan to combine the butter as it melts. Once fully incorporated, immediately remove from the heat and pour the caramel into the prepared cake tin. Place the plum halves on top, cut side down, nestled tightly together and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the remaining butter together with the remaining granulated sugar and the brown sugar until pale and creamy: this

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will take 2-3 minutes using a hand-held electric whisk; if you don’t have one, use a wooden spoon. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well. Once the eggs are well combined, add the remaining vanilla extract, the cornflour, ground almonds, flour and baking powder to the bowl and fold through with a metal spoon until just combined (taking care not to over-mix), then pour over the plums.

Smooth over the top, then bake for 40-45 minutes until cooked through: a thin skewer inserted into the centre of the cake should come out clean.

Transfer the cake to a wire rack and leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes before turning out onto a serving plate.

To do this, put the serving plate on top of the tin and flip over before releasing the sides of the tin and removing the base.

Let the cake cool for a further 5 minutes before slicing.

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Aysha says: “When I was growing up I hated cooking. My family is from India and preparing big meals for the extended family was part of our culture, but I used to beg for any job other than cooking. Then I got married and moved to Africa and suddenly everything changed – I began calling my mother and asking her for recipes. She told me: ‘Cooking for someone you love is what makes you a good cook.’ This curry is a particular favourite of my family in Tanzania.”

Coconut chicken curry (kuku paka) Recipe by Aysha Bora Serves 4 1 large chicken, jointed into 8 pieces, excess skin trimmed away 1 large ripe tomato, roughly chopped 1 onion, quartered 15g fresh root ginger, peeled 4 garlic cloves, peeled 6 serrano chillies, stems removed and de-seeded (use fewer if you prefer milder curries) 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 2 tablespoons coconut oil 2 x 400ml tins coconut milk 3 eggs, hard-boiled, peeled and halved Juice of ½ lemon Salt and pepper 10g fresh coriander, chopped, to garnish Rice, chapatis or flatbreads, to serve

METHOD Score each piece of the chicken in two or three places, slicing about 1cm into the meat.

Put the tomato, onion, ginger, garlic, chillies, cumin, coriander, turmeric and some salt and pepper into a food processor and blend to a rough paste. Rub one third of the paste all over the chicken, into the cuts and under the skin; reserve the rest of the mixture. Refrigerate the chicken for at least 1 hour, or up to 5 hours.

Pre-heat the grill to the highest setting, and line a large baking tin with foil.

In a large pan, melt the coconut oil on a medium heat; add the remaining paste and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes or until all of the moisture evaporates.

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Increase the heat slightly and cook for 3-5 minutes until the paste is thick and dark. Add the coconut milk and simmer for 25-30 minutes until the sauce is thick.

Meanwhile, put the marinated chicken, skin side up, in the lined baking tin and grill for 15 minutes, until well coloured and charred, then turn the chicken over and grill for another 5 minutes to make sure it is cooked through.

Stir the chicken and any juices into the curry pan, bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 5 minutes until the flavours have combined.

Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Add the boiled eggs and the lemon juice to taste. Sprinkle with the chopped coriander and serve with rice, chapatis or flatbreads.

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From the ashes

Intlak says: “Tepsi translates as ‘casserole’ and this is a traditional Persian dish of meatballs in a tomato sauce with eggplant. It’s quite rich. You could make it with less oil, I suppose, but then it wouldn’t be so traditional – or taste so good.”

Recipes from Together: Our Community Cookbook, published by Ebury Press. Photography

by Jenny Zarins

Beef-aubergine casserole Recipe by Intlak Alsaiegh Serves 4-6 350g minced beef 4 cloves garlic ¾ teaspoon curry powder 700g aubergines, peeled and cut into 1.5cm slices 120ml olive oil 500g potatoes, peeled and cut in 1.5cm slices 1 large onion, cut into 1cm slices 1 large green pepper, de-seeded and sliced 350ml water 4 tablespoons tomato purée 1 ½ tablespoons tamarind paste 1 ½ tablespoons granulated sugar Salt and pepper to taste METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 180°C.

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Place the beef and two crushed garlic cloves in a bowl. Add the curry powder and some salt and pepper and mix by hand until well combined. Divide the mixture into 12 equal pieces and roll into balls. Set aside.

Heat a large non-stick frying pan on a medium-high heat. Brush both sides of the aubergine slices with olive oil and fry in batches for 4-5 minutes on each side, until golden. Set aside.

Brush the potato slices with oil and cook in the same pan for about 6 minutes on each side until golden but not completely cooked through. Set aside.

In the same pan, fry the onion slices and green pepper in about 2 tablespoons of the oil for about 5

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minutes, until just golden. Add the remaining garlic and fry for 1 more minute. Set aside. Finally, fry the meatballs on a high heat for 2-3 minutes until well browned but not cooked through.

In a measuring jug, mix the water with the tomato purée, tamarind paste and sugar until well blended.

Arrange half of the aubergine, potato, onion, pepper, tomatoes and meatballs in a 30cm round baking dish, overlapping them. Season well, then pour half of the tomato sauce over the top. Repeat with the rest of the vegetables and meatballs.

Season well and pour the remaining sauce on top.

Cover with foil or a lid and bake for 30 minutes, then uncover and bake for another 20 minutes. Serve with basmati rice or bread to mop up the sauce.

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10/26/2018 11:20:22 AM

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CHRISTMAS

CHEER

Looking for an Irish Christmas market?

We’ve compiled a list of the best on offer as we head into the festive season

Sligo Belfast

The ever popular Belfast Christmas Market is back, offering a range of unique gifts, gourmet food and drink and don’t forget to pay Santa’s post-box a visit and send off your Christmas wish-lists to the North Pole. Each child who posts their letter will receive an individual response from the ‘big man’ himself. November 17 to December 22 at Belfast City Hall.

Winterval Waterford

Winterval is back! For festive fun for all the family head to Waterford for the annual festival which includes Waterford Illuminates, a 3D light show each evening.

There’s also an ice rink, over 45 events (mostly free) and the Winterval Express Train to enjoy.

Each weekend and other select dates from November 17 to December 23.

Enjoy the annual Christmas celebrations with artisan food and craft producers at Strandhill People’s Market in the unique venue of Hangar 1 at Sligo Airport from December 1 to 22. The market is on every Sunday 11-4pm, and the night market is open every Friday in December from 5pm9pm. The man in the big red suit will also be visiting every Friday and Sunday throughout December and all money made from Santa’s grotto will go towards Our Voice Their Future Northwest, a local charity for children and young adults with special needs.

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Christmas cheer

Buncrana, Co Donegal

Santa’s Magical Winter Wonderland (November 23 to December 21) in Ardaravan Square, Buncrana, Co Donegal.

The fun kicks off with the fourth Annual Buncrana Christmas Parade, with Santa Claus himself switching on the Christmas Lights across the town. As well as Santa’s Grotto, there will be a Christmas Carousel, live crib with donkeys and other animals, including Santa’s own reindeer, especially flown in from the North Pole!

Enjoy Christmas karaoke, Santa’s Christmas letterbox, arts and crafts workshops, storytelling with Mrs Claus and her elves and live music too!

Cork

For festive fun, head to Cork City for Glow, a Cork Christmas Celebration, which includes a

fantastic Christmas market and is on at weekends from December 1 to 22. The festival has something for everyone, with a free festive installation in Bishop Lucey Park, a giant Ferris wheel, food markets and entertainment.

Limerick

The Christmas Market at the Milk Market takes place weekly from December 3, with a full week of markets from December 16 to 24.

Featuring 60 stalls and shops with artisan food, craft and gifts, festive and speciality foods, collectables, bric-à-brac, toys, books, fashions, seasonal decorations and more.

Winterland Market, Derry

The Walled City of Derry welcomes the four-day Winterland Market to Guildhall Square from December 14 to 17, with the best artisan traders, offering visitors a friendly shopping

experience and something a little different this festive season. The city’s Craft Village is worth visiting if you’re planning a weekend break in Derry over the coming weeks.

Après Dublin at CHQ

The CHQ building at George›s Dock will be transformed into a giant ski lodge, with social activities, street food and an in-house DJ and band providing night-time entertainment. During the day, the village area will be full of family fun, including a Santa’s Grotto, carousel rides and snacks. What to expect in the lodge: a selection of tasty food options; the Après band and DJ every evening; a wide selection of drinks; après ski-themed games for all; après ski photobooths; snow machines and lots of festive treats!

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10/24/2018 8:25:32 AM

taste James Kavanagh and William Murray have released their first cookbook, The Currabinny Cookbook, named after their growing food business. Janice Butler talks to them about their love of food and keeping it country

Dynamic

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ver five years of selling their home-cooked dishes at farmers’ markets and hosting dining events and popups, James Kavanagh and William Murray’s food business, Currabinny, has won a large fan-base.

Reaching the finals of RTÉ's The Taste of Success (with their to-die-for pecan and white chocolate banana loaf) also exposed Currabinny to a prime-time audience. James and William celebrate traditional ingredients (butter, cream, sea salt and the best of fresh local produce), giving them a modern twist.

They’ve now put all that experience into their first book, The Currabinny Cookbook.

James Kavanagh is known to many for his social media presence: with 117,000 followers on Instagram, he has become one of the country’s best known social influencers. His boyfriend William is a Ballymaloe-trained chef and together their love of food and cooking has made them a dynamic force on the Irish food scene. With very different influences and upbringings they have found a balance that works and this cookbook is surely just the beginning of their food empire. Here, James and William talk about the ethos behind their cooking, their childhoods and their hopes for opening a café.

Congratulations on the book! How did you decide what kind of food to cover in it?

William: We had been doing markets and catering events for quite a while and had created a following that way.

The food we’ve been doing is very seasonal and just a lot like the kind of foods we’d cook at home. So the ethos of the food we were making and the recipes I was writing up were formed before the book was even a thought. When we were faced with the challenge of coming up with a whole cookbook, the main thought was to continue that way with our recipes and just have really good, seasonal, Irish produce that wasn’t going to scare people. We’re very much just home cooks; we’re not into anything super fancy ourselves so we wanted the book to reflect that.

How did you each contribute ideas to the book?

William: We both contributed in terms of what we eat; James has more a contemporary palate and I’m very traditional in my food so it’s a good balance.

Were you conscious of not being too trend-led?

James: It wouldn’t have reflected the way we eat.

We have huge respect for all different types of cooking and styles. We’re a little bit indulgent with our food so our book is the kind that you’d take out on a Sunday and treat yourself. It’s certainly not super healthy. When we think of what we want for dinner, we’re thinking of flavours, not calories.

Did you have very different experiences of food growing up?

William: There would be some similarities in that our mothers were both big figures in our food journeys. We grew up in very different environments, I grew up by the sea in a very tiny village in Cork and James grew up in suburbia land in South Dublin. The food I grew up with was very simple; in the summer all we ate was mackerel, the sea outside my house would be bubbling up with mackerel jumping, you could pretty much just reach in and grab them.

Those countryside memories and what I learnt from my neighbours about food are all in the book.

James: William’s background is like a page out of an Enid Blyton book, when they ran out of something they had to row across the bay to the shop and they grew everything in their back garden. I grew up near Dundrum in Dublin so it was a very different environment. But my mum is partItalian and she always likes to go on about that and she was always cooking Italian food – she thinks she’s a real Italian Mama!

Have you been welcomed into the Currabinny community, James?

James: Yes! The dream is to eventually move to Cork. I went to boarding school in Co Westmeath, pretty much

“My dream is to eventually move to Cork. I went to boarding school in Co Westmeath, pretty much in the middle of nowhere so I’ve always considered myself a little bit country” – James Kavanagh

in the middle of nowhere, so I’ve always considered myself a little bit country.

Also my parents only allowed me come home once a month, probably for good reason, so I always had a love of the countryside. But I adore going down to Currabinny. It’s like a reset button, it’s so idyllic.

William: I think my neighbours are actually worried that there might be a James Kavanagh theme park there soon and throngs of screaming girls. I’ve promised them it’s too hard to get to.

You have plans for a café – how are they coming along?

James: We’re hoping to open a café next year. The only thing really holding us back at the moment is finding the right property. We have a list of what we’d like from a premises but it’s hard to find something that ticks all the boxes. We just did the business course down in Ballymaloe, which was great for us as neither of us is business-minded.

William: We have folders of ideas of what recipes we’d like to do in the café but it will probably be a really small menu that changes often. We want a home base for Curabinny, somewhere we are every day so we can show people what we’re doing and what we’re passionate about.

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10/26/2018 1:53:00 PM

taste James says: “William’s mother, Breda, has always kept a patch of ground at Currabinny for the largely unsuccessful cultivation of vegetables, berries and fruit trees. The combination of salty galeforce winds from Cork Harbour and the relentless encroachment of tree roots from Currabinny Woods just behind the house present her with some serious challenges. However, among the fruitless plum trees, the gooseberry bushes with their bitter, unripe berries, and the small, flattened carrot tops, one thing grows in abundance: chard. Thus, in Currabinny, chard gets put into every dish imaginable. Chard is a highly nutritious leaf, commonly used in the same way as spinach, although it’s more closely related to beetroot. William didn’t see chard much after moving to Dublin (though it’s more common now), so, in a fit of nostalgic enthusiasm when he came across it, and with an unshakeable belief that chard works in anything, he decided to add it to a korma. And the result was amazing – as he knew it would be!”

TOP TIP Don’t throw away the stalks! You can use them to make stock (they’ll keep in the freezer), but they are also really nice chopped roughly, sautéed with butter and served as a side dish with a main course.

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Ruby chard korma Serves 4-6 3 onions 3 cloves of garlic A thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger 700g chestnut mushrooms A large knob of butter Sea salt and freshly Ground black pepper Seeds from 10 cardamom pods, crushed 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground turmeric A few pinches of ground cinnamon A few pinches of chilli powder 3 bay leaves 200ml water 350g ruby chard 200g natural yoghurt 150g crème fraîche To serve Toasted flaked almonds Pomegranate seeds Basmati rice Method Peel the onions, garlic and ginger. Slice the onions and mushrooms, grate the ginger and crush the garlic with some salt. Melt the butter in a large pan and add the onions, garlic and ginger with some salt and pepper.

When the onions have softened a bit, add the cardamom, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon, chilli powder and bay leaves. Now add the sliced mushrooms to the pan and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring regularly.

Pour in the water, stir and simmer for 15 minutes, then check the seasoning.

Meanwhile, remove the stalks from the chard and add the leaves in batches to the pot until it is all wilted.

Turn the heat to low and gently stir in the yoghurt and crème fraîche. Serve with rice and top with the almonds and pomegranate seeds.

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Macroom oatmeal with milk & salt Serves 1-2 1 teacup of water 1½ teacups of milk A good pinch of sea salt ½ teacup of Macroom oatmeal Soft brown sugar (optional) METHOD Put all the ingredients except the sugar into a saucepan on a medium heat and stir continuously.

The oats will absorb the liquid very fast, so be careful not to let the mixture stick to the bottom.

After about 5 or 6 minutes, when the oatmeal has softened and is at the consistency of porridge, transfer to a bowl and sprinkle with a little bit of brown sugar if desired.

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With Saturn peaches, pomegranate and raw honey Follow the same recipe as above, but use just a tiny pinch of sea salt. When you have transferred the oatmeal to your bowl, arrange some slices of good ripe Saturn peaches (also called doughnut peaches) in the middle, sprinkle a few pomegranate seeds over and drizzle generously with good-quality raw honey. Orange blossom or wildflower varieties work really well.

James says: “You will see Macroom oatmeal mentioned more than once in this book – and not just because it’s from Co Cork! It’s because it’s the king of oatmeal. It’s wonderful on its own with a pinch of salt or with some fruit and honey. Use whatever fruit is good, ripe and in season. In winter, homemade jam is a perfect addition to porridge.”

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Wholemeal spelt carrot loaf with orange mascarpone icing Makes 8 slices

William says: “This manages to be both indulgent and really healthy (well, as healthy as any cake gets!). The recipe includes wholemeal spelt flour, which gives the loaf a moreish nuttiness”

75ml rapeseed oil, plus extra for greasing 175g carrots 2 medium organic eggs 110g soft brown sugar 100g wholemeal spelt flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1½ teaspoons bicarbonate of soda 50g desiccated coconut 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg FOR THE ICING 250g mascarpone cheese 2 tablespoons icing sugar Juice of 1 orange A few chopped walnuts (for decoration) Some orange zest (for decoration – use as much as you like) METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 190ºC fan/ gas 6. Grease and line a 450g loaf tin with baking parchment.

Peel the carrots and grate them finely. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and brown sugar until thick and creamy.

Continuing to whisk, slowly pour the oil into the egg mixture until well combined. In another bowl, gently mix the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, coconut, cinnamon and nutmeg together. Add to the batter in three batches, folding in well each time, then add the grated carrots, stirring gently to combine. Pour into the lined loaf tin and bake in the oven for 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the ingredients for the icing into a bowl and mix well. Use a skewer to test if the loaf is done. When it comes out clean, remove the loaf from the oven and cool on a wire rack. Once cooled, use a spatula to cover the loaf with icing and sprinkle over some chopped walnuts and some orange zest if you like.

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3 From The Currabinny Cookbook by James Kavanagh & William Murray, published by Penguin Ireland, €25

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10/26/2018 2:09:46 PM

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F

ood stylist and chef, Jennifer Joyce, doesn’t have Asian heritage, but you wouldn’t know it after reading her latest book. In fact, Jennifer’s passion for food, including the flavours of the Far East, comes from her Italian mother, who taught her everything she knows about food. While the title of her book, My Asian Kitchen, may suggest traditional Asian food, it is in fact, inspired by it, offering a range of foods as eclectic as the huge continent.

There are 48 Asian countries and many more food cultures. The source material for Joyce’s cookbook is boundless and her recipes sometimes blend these, with an emphasis on Japan, Taiwan and the gastronomic powerhouses of Southeast Asia – Vietnam, Malaysia and Thailand. Many of the recipes include suggestions for alternative ingredients or ways to vary the recipe. Jennifer says her eyes were opened to the possibilities of Asian cuisines in the 1990s, when she started travelling around Asia, feasting on karaage fried chicken, pho, pot sticker dumplings and bao buns. These experiences left an indelible mark on the avid cook, who began incorporating the flavours of the Orient into her repertoire. “Successfully cooking this legendary cuisine isn’t magic, you just need solid guidance and the right ingredients,” she says. For novices, this book is a good place to start. Here are some recipes to try at home if you’re looking to get away from all the turkey and stuffing!

A BREAK FROM THE TURKEY!

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A break from the turkey!

r Jennife says:

Duck larb salad with rainbow carrots & pineapple

“Laab, laap or larb – so many spellings, but they all translate to ‘chopped’ in this South East Asian specialty. Typically, it’s pork, chicken or seafood stirfried and tossed in a sweetand-sour dressing, but here I’ve used duck. I like to pad my salad out a bit with carrot and pineapple, but if you don’t want to go to the trouble, then leave them out. You can also serve up with thin rice noodles or rice”

Serves 4 350g duck breast meat 1 tablespoon fish sauce 2 lemongrass stalks, inner part only, chopped 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 lime leaves, finely shredded (optional) 3 teaspoons rice (optional) 2 carrots, julienned 200g pineapple, chopped 5 shallots, sliced in half moons 1 large handful each coriander and mint leaves, chopped FOR THE LIME GINGER CHILLI DRESSING 2cm ginger 1 garlic clove 3 tablespoons grated palm sugar or soft brown sugar 2 tablespoons orange juice 75ml lime juice 50ml fish sauce 1 Thai or regular red chilli, sliced crispy fried shallots, to serve (optional) METHOD Remove the skin from the duck meat and pulse in a food processor until minced. Add the fish sauce and chopped lemongrass and pulse again. In a large frying pan or wok, heat the vegetable oil until very hot. Add the duck and spread it out over the pan. Let it brown well before turning it and grinding over some black pepper. Fry until cooked through and crisp on the edges.

Remove from the heat, add the lime leaves, if using, and set aside.

To make the dressing, pound the ginger and garlic together with a large mortar and pestle or use the end of a rolling pin in a small bowl. Add the sugar, orange and lime juices, fish sauce and 2 tablespoons water. Mix until the sugar has dissolved.

Taste to see if it needs additional sugar or fish sauce, then add the chilli and set aside.

If you’re making the toasted rice, place the rice in a small frying pan. Cook for about 3 minutes over medium heat until browned and toasted. Remove from the pan and grind with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.

Arrange the carrot, pineapple, crispy duck, shallots and the herbs on a platter and pour over the dressing. Sprinkle with the toasted ground rice and crispy fried shallots, if using.

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You can buy good-quality jars of crispy fried shallots in many Asian shops or supermarkets.

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10/30/2018 2:12:28 PM

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r Jennife says: “This creation was inspired

by Japan’s smoke-filled izakaya – a kind of pub where uber snacks like charcoalgrilled yakitori and fried karaage chicken rule. Shichimi togarashi, a citrus, chilli and sesame seed spice, gives these sticky soy wings a fruity kick with a mild heat. Find it in Asian stores or online. Serve the wings with lots of napkins and icecold beers”

Soy, lemon & togarashi chicken wings Serves 4 60ml Japanese light soy sauce 60ml sake or mirin 60ml honey 1 tablespoon grated ginger 2 garlic cloves, crushed Juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons togarashi spice mix 1.4kg chicken wings, halved METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 200°C (400°F) or 180°C (350°F) fan forced.

In a small bowl, mix the soy, sake or mirin, honey, ginger, garlic, lemon juice and togarashi spices together, reserving 1 tablespoon each of the soy sauce, honey and togarashi.

Place the wings in a Zip-loc bag or bowl with the marinade and marinate for 2 hours or refrigerate overnight.

Place the chicken on a large baking tray with the marinade.

Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes.

Remove the foil and bake for another 30 minutes.

In the last 10 minutes of the cooking time, drizzle the reserved honey and soy over the wings. The wings are ready when they are sticky and crisp at the edges. Sprinkle with the remaining spice mixture. Serve hot with lots of napkins.

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NOTE

You can buy chicken wings already cut in half, ask your butcher to prepare them or it’s easy to do it yourself. Pick up a wing and snap back the joint as if you were bending it backwards. Use a pair of poultry or other clean scissors to cut through the knuckle and separate each wing into two pieces.

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A break from the turkey!

Grilled honey soy salmon with citrus soba noodles Serves 4 500g salmon fillet 2 tablespoons Japanese light soy sauce 2 tablespoons honey 2 seedless or mandarin oranges 250g dried soba noodles 200g asparagus, trimmed 1 finger-sized red chilli, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon togarashi spice mix 2 handfuls mizuna or wild rocket FOR THE CITRUS DRESSING Zest and juice 1 seedless or mandarin orange 1 tablespoon Japanese light soy sauce 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons lime juice 75ml yuzu juice 2 teaspoons grated ginger 1 small shallot, finely chopped METHOD Slice the salmon into four pieces.

Mix the soy sauce with the honey in a shallow glass dish, then place the salmon, flesh side down, in the marinade. Mix together all the citrus dressing ingredients.

Slice the peel from the oranges using a knife and then cut into discs. Set aside.

Bring a very large pan of water to a boil. Add a cup of cold water and then the noodles (the cold water helps slow down the cooking time to prevent the noodles from going soggy). Cook for about 7 minutes or until al dente. Add the asparagus in the last 30 seconds of cooking. Drain, rinse in cold water and leave to sit in the sieve until the salmon is done.

Heat your grill. Place the salmon on a foil-covered baking tray.

Grill for 6-8 minutes until crisp at the edges. If your salmon has skin, then remove after cooking.

Rinse the noodles again to detangle. Arrange the noodles and asparagus on four plates. Top with the fish and orange slices and pour over the dressing.

Sprinkle with the chilli and spice mix and serve with some salad leaves strewn over.

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If you don’t have the togarashi spice mix, substitute with black or white sesame seeds.

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From cakes to brownies, cookies and scones, these desserts are a surefire cure for the winter blues

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Winter delights

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Chocolate ice-cream pie Serves 8-10 250g plain chocolate biscuits, finely crushed 100g unsalted butter, melted 1 litre chocolate ice-cream, softened 500ml single cream

Method Place the crushed biscuits and butter in a medium bowl and mix well to combine. Reserve and set aside 2 tablespoons of the crumb mixture. Press the remaining mixture into the base of an 18cm round (1-litre-capacity) pie tin and freeze for 10 minutes or until firm.

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Spoon the ice-cream into the base of the pie and smooth into an even layer. Freezer for 1-2 hours or until firm.

Place the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer and whisk until soft peaks form.

Spoon the cream over the pie and sprinkle with the reserved crumb mixture. Serve immediately.

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Winter delights

Salted dark chocolate layer cake with milk chocolate ganache Serves 8-10 375g self-raising flour, sifted 50g cocoa powder, sifted 330g caster sugar

4 eggs 375ml milk 250g unsalted butter, melted 200g dark chocolate, melted 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 teaspoons black sea salt flakes For the quick milk chocolate ganache 240g sour cream 400g milk chocolate, melted Method

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Pre-heat oven to 180°C (350°F). Line 2 x 20cm round cake tins with non-stick

baking paper.

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Place the flour, cocoa, sugar, eggs, milk, butter, chocolate and vanilla in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Divide the mixture between the tins and bake for 40-45 minutes or until cooked when tested with a skewer. Allow to cool in the tins for 10 minutes before turning out onto wire racks to cool completely.

To make the quick milk chocolate ganache, place the sour cream and chocolate in a large bowl. Mix to combine and refrigerate for 10 minutes or until firm.

Place 1 of the cakes on a cake stand or plate. Spread with half the ganache.

Top with the remaining cake and ganache. Sprinkle with the salt to serve.

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Chocolate salted caramel cookies Makes 15 200g unsalted butter, melted and cooled 175g light brown sugar 165g granulated white sugar 1 egg 1 egg yolk, extra 2 teaspoons vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon bicarbonate of (baking) soda 1 teaspoon water 300g plain flour ¼ teaspoon table salt 35g cocoa powder 2 tablespoons milk 300g 70% dark chocolate, chopped 200g thick caramel or dulce de leche Sea salt flakes, for sprinkling Method

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Pre-heat oven to 160°C (325°F).

Line 2 large baking trays with

non-stick baking paper. Place the butter and both the sugars in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat on medium speed for 6-8 minutes or until sandy in texture.

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Add the egg, extra yolk and vanilla, increase the speed to

high and beat for 2 minutes or until pale and creamy. Place the baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and water in a small bowl and mix to combine. Add the baking powder mixture, flour, table salt, cocoa, milk and chocolate to the butter mixture and beat on low speed until just combined.

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Working in batches, shape 60ml portions of the dough

into balls and place on the trays, allowing room to spread. Bake for 18-20 minutes or until golden brown and firm to the touch. Allow to cool on the trays for 10 minutes, before transferring to wire racks to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining dough to make a total of 15 cookies.

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Spread cookies with the caramel and sprinkle with sea

salt to serve.

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Winter delights

TOP TIP

You can store these cookies, without the caramel and sea salt, in an airtight container for up to 4 days.

Recipes from Modern Baking

by Donna Hay, published by Fourth Estate (Harper Collins)

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Cheese & matcha scone Makes about 6 large scones 450g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 tablespoon matcha powder 100g chilled unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 250g mature Cheddar cheese, finely grated 120ml cold milk or buttermilk 120ml cold water 1 egg, beaten with a splash of milk Method Pre-heat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas Mark 7.

Put the flour, salt and matcha powder into a large bowl and mix together until well combined. Add the butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until it looks grainy.

Add 225g of the cheese and then stir to combine. Mix in the milk and water, until the dough just comes away from the edge of the bowl. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and flatten the dough into a rough rectangle about 2.5 cm thick.

Using a sharp knife, cut into 6 large triangles.

Gently push any offcuts together to cut more shapes.

Put the unbaked scones on a baking tray lined with baking paper and brush with the egg and milk mixture. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the tops and bake for about 12 minutes, or until golden. Transfer to a wire rack to cool before serving.

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Recipe from The Matcha Cookbook, published

by Aster, photography

by Issy Croker

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Winter delights

Fudgy brownies Makes 15 1 tablespoon chia seeds 250g buckwheat flour 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda Pinch of sea salt 60g cacao powder 330g coconut sugar 100ml almond milk 130g coconut oil, melted Handful of walnuts, chopped

TOP TIP In the deli, we bake these brownies in individual moulds, which gives them a crusty edge, but here we’ve suggested baking them in one large tray as it’s easier and makes them extra gooey.

METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 190°C (fan 170°C). Line a 25 x 18 x 4cm baking tin with baking parchment.

Place the chia seeds in a bowl with 4 tablespoons water, mix well then leave to one side for 10 minutes to thicken up.

Place the flour, bicarb, salt, cacao powder and coconut sugar into a large bowl and mix well to remove any lumps. Next, add the almond milk, chia mixture and melted coconut oil and mix well for 5-6 minutes to ensure everything is well combined.

Pour the mixture into the lined tin and sprinkle with the walnuts.

Bake for 25-30 minutes, until cooked through but still a little fudgy in the middle. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes, and then transfer to a wire rack, before cutting into brownies.

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Ella says: “I’ve been so excited to share this recipe with you.

It’s our all-time favourite and probably the most popular sweet recipe we’ve ever had at the deli! The brownies are so gooey and fudgy and I love the crunchy bites of walnuts on top. I often make these for friends, serving them hot out of the oven with a scoop of coconut ice-cream on top”

Recipe from Deliciously Ella The Plant-Based Cookbook by Ella Mills, published

by Hodder & Stoughton, priced £25. Photographs

by Nassima Rothacker.

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CHEERS! Some wine pairing suggestions and winter cocktail ideas to impress your guests

Fergus graduated as Canada’s top sommelier in 1997 and under his guidance, The Twelve has been consistently winning wine awards since it opened in 2007. If you are looking for good wines in Galway this festive season, Fergus recommends a visit to Woodberrys and O’Briens in Galway ahead of your Christmas celebrations this year.

To find out more about the Twelve, see thewelvehotel.ie, westrestaurant.ie, call 091-597 000

Top sommelier Fergus O’Halloran from the Twelve Hotel in Galway has some tips about choosing the best wines for your Christmas dinner table

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here’s nothing better than opening a gorgeous bottle of wine at Christmas and sharing it with friends and family, a bottle you may have been saving for months to accompany that turkey and ham planned for December 25.

Here are some tips on pairing wine with your festive feast and some of my favourites this Christmas.

For a traditional smoked salmon starter, definitely begin with a nice champagne to bring out the taste of the salmon: it’s Christmas after all! I’m look forward to a terrific methóde champenoise from the south of England, Nyetimber. If it’s prawn cocktail that’s on the menu, then go with a good Albariño from Rias Baixas in Galicia. All decent wine stores will carry both of these wines and have a good selection of price points. (In Galway, I recommend Woodberrys and O’Briens).

For turkey with stuffing, a medium bodied Cabernet Sauvignon is a superb accompaniment!

If your taste is for white wine and you’re someone who likes the finer things in life, then splurge on a white Chateauneuf du Pape from Beaucastel. It’s delicious and will pair beautifully with the bird.

For the non-traditionalists out there, try a Brunello di Montalcino or a Barolo with some age if your family’s festive feast is a tender beef Wellington. Alternatively, if you are a little more adventurous and interested in developing your wine palate, go for a Ribera del Duero. These are generally dry, big and meaty wines of exceptional quality from Spain and pair really well with roasted meats.

A Crozes-Hermitage from a great producer like Jaboulet goes well with roast goose, one of my all-time favourites. And to accompany the traditional glazed ham joint, look for a Chinon/Cabernet Franc grape.

When it comes to dessert, you have to treat yourself to a sweet wine on Christmas Day. Whether you're having mince pies, Christmas pudding or Christmas cake, try Elysium Black Muscat, a cracking dessert wine from California and inexpensive. For those who like a little more decadence and are having a Yule log, I recommend a Pineau des Charentes Rouge 5-yearold Cognac.

No Christmas dinner is complete without cheese and biscuits, and I recommend a tawny port to bring out the flavours.

And finally, for the days after Christmas, you can›t beat a delish sandwich made with turkey and ham leftovers, teamed with a hoppy beer. Stay local with Galway Hooker, Independent Pale Ale or Spiddal River Brewing Company!

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Cheers!

Winter cocktails to try at home Top tips!

Garnishing

S

omething to consider is that shopbought syrups tend to be much sweeter, often nearing a 2:1 sugar to water ratio, so if you are using a pre-made product, you may wish to reduce the amount of sugar syrup added to your cocktails. Flavour is subjective – the best judge of what tastes right will always be you.

Eating and drinking are experiences that engage all the senses and the first sense we usually engage is sight. We literally drink with our eyes. Decorating or garnishing a drink attractively will instantly make it more appealing. Garnishes will also add to the drink’s aroma, often creating a contrasting flavour profile. Finally, if something looks great and smells great, it probably tastes great.

The most common garnish we use is citrus fruit. Lemons, limes, oranges and grapefruit can be cut into wedges or half-moon slices, or their peel can be cut off and used as ‘twists.’

To prepare a twist, we slice the peel off the fruit with a paring knife or vegetable peeler.

Don’t worry if you take the pith along with the peel, you can carefully slice that off afterwards. If you wish, you can cut it into a fancy or decorative shape, but leaving it rugged and natural looking is just as appealing in its own way. Once ready to use, gently squeeze the twist over the top of the liquid to express the oils in the skin, and unless instructed to discard it, drop it into the drink.

It goes without saying that using the freshest and best quality fruit you possibly can will give you the best results.

Glassware

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hough ultimately functional, glasses are also beautiful things. Be they antique or contemporary, they are iconic and unique. They are often also deeply personal objects, as most of us have in our possession a single vessel or a set of something or other that was passed down or given to us, and in them lie stories. We suggest the appropriate glassware for each cocktail, but with a little imagination tempered with a modicum of common sense, the selections can be up to you.

Jaffa

A creamy chocolate-orange dessert cocktail.

Would also be great blended with a splash of whole milk and a handful of ice.

1 measure cognac 1 measure dark crème de cacao 1 measure double cream Cocoa powder, to garnish

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Add all the ingredients to your cocktail shaker, shake vigorously and strain into a wine glass. Garnish with a dusting of cocoa powder.

Ultimate Irish Coffee

The epitome of indulgence, and a naughty favourite of many, this is worth taking the time to prepare properly. Everyone will have their preferred recipe and the one below, though a little more complex than some, will not disappoint.

1½ measures Irish whiskey ½ measure coffee liqueur 1 measure vanilla syrup 2 measures espresso Whipped cream, to top

Rum Old Fashioned

Being darker and richer than American whiskey, the chocolate, coffee and ripe fruit notes from good-quality rum make for a superb Old Fashioned.

2 measures aged rum 1 teaspoon sugar syrup 1 dash Angostura bitters 1 dash orange bitters Lime twist, to garnish

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Add all the ingredients to an old-fashioned glass and add 5-6 cubes of ice.

Stir continuously to 30 seconds, gradually adding in more ice, a cube at a time.

Garnish with a lime twist.

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Gently heat the ingredients in a small saucepan till warm, but not boiling.

Pour into a rocks glass and top with whipped cream.

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From The Cocktail Bible by Matthew Robertson, published by Pyramid

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L’amour De Noel

Winter Wonderland

50ml Bombay Sapphire 25ml Parfait d’Amour Liqueur 75ml berry tea 25ml spiced syrup 25ml egg white

35.5ml brandy 50ml Baileys 25ml fresh cream 25ml popcorn syrup Dark chocolate melted (for garnish) Grated nutmeg (for garnish)

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Chill a champagne glass with ice.

Pour all ingredients into a shaker and dry shake for 20 seconds. Add ice and shake again for 20 seconds.

Strain into the chilled glass.

Add preferred garnishes – we recommend dried strawberries.

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Chill a Martini glass with ice.

Fill shaker with ice. Pour all the ingredients (except the garnishes) into the shaker.

Shake for 30 seconds.

Pour melted dark chocolate onto the rim of the glass.

Strain the drink into the glass and finish with some grated nutmeg.

From Sure Bar at Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Dublin radissonblu.com/royalhotel-dublin

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Cheers!

And a couple of non-alcoholic options from Seedlip!

The Noddy 50ml Seedlip Spice 94 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp manuka honey Boiling water Lemon wheel to garnish

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Add Seedlip Spice 94, lemon juice and honey to a mug. Top with boiling water and stir. Garnish with a lemon wheel.

The Mr Howard

This cocktail is named after Stewart Howard, one of the first people in the world to serve Seedlip.

50ml Seedlip Spice 94 2 tbsps fresh pink grapefruit juice 20ml fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp sugar syrup Star anise to garnish

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Add Seedlip Spice 94, grapefruit juice, lemon juice and sugar syrup to a shaker with ice.

Shake for 30 seconds and double strain into a coupe glass.

Seedlip is available in 70cl & 20cl bottles from drinkstore.ie & Dunnes Stores

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PERSIAN

JEWELS

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n her new book, Persian Kitchen, author and photographer Atoosa Sepehr offers not just mouth-watering traditional Iranian recipes, but also her sumptuous photographs of the food, people and landscapes of Iran. Atoosa left Iran to work in the UK in 2007, but she never left behind the wonderful flavours of her childhood. Cooking these dishes for her family and friends has made her passionate about sharing authentic, homecooked Persian cuisine with an international readership. The book contains traditional recipes handed down the generations, but adapted to fit into Atoosa’s busy life. They are delicious and easy to prepare, using ingredients you can get in any supermarket. “Every time I cook a Persian dish, I feel connected to a long and varied history, knowing that despite changing geographical and political boundaries, Persian cuisine has survived and thrived, bringing people together, sharing and celebrating.” Persian Kitchen is an impressively practical recipe book, but it’s also a photographic celebration of a fascinating country. Here’s a flavour of what’s inside.

Cucumber, red onion & pomegranate salad Salad-e anar Serves 4 500g baby cucumbers or 1 large cucumber 1 red onion Seeds from 1 pomegranate 1 teaspoon dried mint 5g fresh mint leaves, chopped FOR THE DRESSING 50ml fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon sumac ¼ teaspoon golpar powder (optional) Salt METHOD Cut the cucumbers into slices about 3mm thick; if you are using a large cucumber, first cut it in half lengthways and slice each half separately. Add to a large bowl. Cut the onion into fine slices to make onion rings; add to the bowl.

Add the pomegranate seeds, dried and fresh mint; set aside.

To make the dressing, place all the ingredients in a small bowl and mix well, adding salt to taste.

Add the dressing to the salad, mix well and serve immediately.

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Persian jewels

Beetroot with spinach & creamy yoghurt Borani-e laboo Serves 4 300g uncooked beetroot, trimmed Olive oil for brushing 100g fresh spinach leaves Salt 300g Greek-style yoghurt (preferably full-fat) 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ tablespoon black or white sesame seeds to garnish METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 200°C/ 180°C fan/Gas 6.

Brush the beetroot with a little olive oil and then wrap each one separately in foil and roast for 1 hour. Leave to cool completely, then peel (the skin should come off easily) and grate coarsely.

Place the spinach, a pinch of salt and 3 tablespoons of water in a saucepan, cover with a lid and cook on the lowest possible heat for 10 minutes until the spinach has wilted and turned a darker shade of green (stirring halfway through and adding a little more water if needed).

Give it a good stir, turn the heat to medium and cook for 1-2 minutes or until all the water has evaporated. Set aside to cool before chopping roughly.

Place the grated beetroot, spinach, yoghurt, lime juice, pepper and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Stir gently until they are completely mixed. Taste and add more salt if needed.

Place in the fridge for an hour; this will help blend the yoghurt and beetroot flavour and colour. Give it a good stir and garnish with sesame seeds before serving.

Atoosa says: “I have always loved the colour and flavour of beetroot; when combined with yoghurt it creates borani-e laboo, which has a wonderfully creamy texture. It is served as a side dish or as a starter. You can use ready-cooked beetroot, but be sure to use the sort cooked in natural juice rather than in vinegar. However, by cooking the beetroot yourself you will achieve a richer and more natural taste”

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Recipes from Atoosa’s Persian Kitchen by Atoosa Sepehr, published

by Robinson

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WHAT ARE YOU

EATING?

Have you ever wondered about those nameless ancestors who were food heroes – the ones who saved the seeds from especially productive plants to grow the next year, or figured out how to make sheep stay in one place? Stephen Meyler takes a look at two beautiful books that tell the story of the journey of food, from pre-history to our full plates today

Delicious data

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ood & Drink Infographics from Taschen is for the serious foodie in your life.

So if you know someone who would be fascinated by a chart outlining the evolution of the cookie, or a pie chart illustrating the essential information of how many types of cheese the world revels in, then this book will make them very happy.

One such lover of information in infographic form is the awardwinning food author Michael Ruhlman, who reveals in the book’s introduction: “I looked at an egg and drew a flow chart of everything you could do with that egg. The scroll on which I’d drawn it measured over six feet long. I sent it to my publisher, telling him that this was my book proposal.

He loved the proposal, bought it right away. Then I spent the next year translating my flow chart, a single image, into tens of thousands of words on hundreds of pages.

One image is a powerful force.

Visual displays are all about context. And context is essential to understanding our complicated world with the increasing amounts of data we must absorb and understand.

Which brings me to food.

Producing food, distributing it, purchasing it, cooking it, sharing it and eating it touches

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everyone. If we don’t eat, we die. If we don’t eat well, we get sick. If we cook our food and share it with the people we care about, even the gravest problems become more manageable in a world fraught with peril and filled with wonder.

And never has the world recognised food’s all-importance and hungered for knowledge about it as it has today.

Food & Drink Infographics tackles exactly this, covering an astonishing range of foods, food issues, facts, recipes, cooking, and chefs, in fabulous visual displays of data. It is a compulsively readable, or rather viewable, collection of graphics on all the subjects with food at their centre. The ocean and its fish, and which are safest to eat. The restaurant world and, say, the extraordinary impact of a single chef, Alain Ducasse. And of course food itself – a chart illustrating varieties of chilli peppers and their heat levels, a graphic describing what foods share flavour molecules, or arguably, the most comprehensive cheese wheel you’ve ever seen.”

Taken from Food & Drink Infographics (Taschen)

What are you eating?

The story of food

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his gorgeous book from those creators of gorgeous books, Dorling Kindersley, explores the rich stories that come wrapped up on our plates – food that not only feeds our bodies but also makes up our culture. The Story of Food explains how foods have become a part of our culture from their origins to how they are eaten and their place in world cuisine. Strawberries and cream, for example, are said to have been first paired in the 16th-Century at the English court of King Henry VIII. In ancient Egypt, mushrooms were associated with immortality and so only pharaohs were permitted to eat them. Greek physician Galen believed that too much fruit could cause fevers so not letting kids eat fruit was considered beneficial.

Food writer and restaurant reviewer, Giles Coren, who wrote the introduction to The Story of Food says: “It is an essential contribution to the ongoing debate about how we eat now, and what and why and since when and for how much longer? lt comes at this enormous subject in a multi-disciplinary blizzard of enthusiasm, like the great encyclopaedias of the Enlightenment, attacking food from historical, political, cultural, scientific and medical angles in ways that make it gripping as a sit down read, compulsive as an idle browse, and indispensable as a reference tool.”

With lavish illustrations and photography, many of them historical, The Story of Food covers nearly 200 foods.

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W

e didn’t think it was possible, but Yotam Ottolenghi’s new book, Simple, is full of dishes to make cooking fun, easy, relaxing and delicious – a first for the chef who is known for his sometimes complicated recipes. He insists that he doesn’t feel sheepish about any of the 130 recipes, arguing that “simple” means different things to different people. He acknowledges, however, that, being Ottolenghi, “a single sprig of parsley was never really going to cut the mustard.” To help any remaining doubters, the chef has come up with his own criteria of “simple” – six of them – and assures us that all the recipes will meet at least one.

Creating an acronym, Ottolenghi’s definitions of simple are: Short on time, 10 Ingredients or less, Make ahead, Pantry, Lazy and Easier than you think.The recipes are distinctly Ottolenghi and eastern Mediterranean, with an abundance of beautiful plates of vegetables topped with herbs and yogurt, stuffed courgettes, many incarnations of roasted aubergine and lots of preserved lemons and sumac. While instantly recognisable as an Ottolenghi cookbook, Simple avoids some of the cheffier techniques of his previous book, Nopi. It eases the reader into a version of Ottolenghi for the home cook, with many of the recipes destined for a family feast or dinner party.

EASY does

IT!

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Slow-cooked chicken with a crisp corn crust Serves 6 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 red onions, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 3 tablespoons rose harissa (50% more or less, depending on how hot the variety) 2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika 850g chicken thighs, skinless and boneless (about 9-10 thighs) 200ml passata 5 large tomatoes, quartered 200g jarred roasted red peppers, drained and cut into 2cm thick rounds 15g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids) 20g coriander, roughly chopped Salt and black pepper FOR THE SWEETCORN BATTER 70g unsalted butter, melted 500g corn kernels, fresh or frozen and defrosted (shaved corn kernels from 4 large corn cobs, if starting from fresh) 3 tablespoons whole milk 3 eggs, yolks and whites separated METHOD Heat the oil in a large sauté pan, for which you have a lid, on a mediumhigh heat. Add the onions and fry for 8-9 minutes, stirring a few times, until caramelised and soft. Reduce the heat to medium and add the garlic, harissa, paprika, chicken, 1 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper.

Cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, then add the passata and tomatoes.

Pour over 350ml of water, bring to the boil, then simmer on a medium heat, covered, for 30 minutes, stirring every once in a while.

Add the peppers and chocolate and continue to simmer for another 35-40 minutes, with the pan now uncovered, stirring frequently, until the sauce is getting thick and the chicken is falling apart. Remove from the heat and stir in the coriander. If you are serving the chicken as it is (as a stew without the batter), it’s ready to serve (or freeze, once it’s come to room temperature). If you are making the corn topping, spoon the chicken into a ceramic baking dish – one with high sides that measures about 20 x 30cm – and set aside.

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Yotam says: “This is a wonderful meal on an autumn day, served with a crisp green salad. The slow-cooked chicken is packed full of flavour and the crust – gluten-free, rich and corny – makes for a welcome (and lighter) change to a heavier mash. You can make the chicken well in advance if you want to get ahead: it keeps in the fridge for up to 3 days or can be frozen for 1 month. You want it to go into the oven defrosted, though, so it will need thawing out of the freezer. The batter needs to be made fresh and spooned on top of the chicken just before the dish gets baked, but it then can just go back in the oven. It can also be baked a few hours in advance – just warm through for 10 minutes, covered in foil, before serving. I love the combination of the chicken and the corn, but the chicken also works well as it is, served on top of rice, in a wrap or with a buttery jacket potato.”

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Pre-heat the oven to 180°C fan.

Pour the butter into a blender with the corn, milk, egg yolks and ¾ teaspoon salt. Blitz for a few seconds, to form a rough paste, then spoon into a large bowl. Place the egg whites in a separate clean bowl and whisk to form firm peaks. Fold these gently into the runny corn mixture

until just combined, then pour the mix evenly over the chicken.

Bake for 35 minutes, until the top is golden-brown: keep an eye on it after 25 minutes to make sure the top is not taking on too much colour: you might need to cover it with tin foil for the final 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside for 10 minutes before serving.

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Pappardelle with rose harissa, black olives & capers Serves 4 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons rose harissa (or 50% more or less, depending on how hot) 400g cherry tomatoes, halved 55g pitted Kalamata olives, torn in half 20g baby capers 500g dried pappardelle pasta (or another wide, flat pasta) 15g parsley, roughly chopped 120g Greek-style yoghurt Salt METHOD Put the oil into a large sauté pan, for which you have a lid, and place on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion and fry for 8 minutes, stirring every once in a while, until soft and caramelised. Add the harissa, tomatoes, olives, capers and ½ teaspoon of salt and continue to fry for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently, until the tomatoes start to break down.

Add 200ml of water and stir through. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the lid of the sauce and continue to cook for 4-5 minutes, until the sauce is thick and rich. Stir in 10g of the parsley and set aside.

Meanwhile, fill a large pot with plenty of salted water and place on a high heat. Once boiling, add the pappardelle and cook according to the packet instructions, until al dente. Drain well.

Return the pasta to the pot along with the harissa sauce and ⅛ teaspoon of salt.

Mix together well, then divide between four shallow bowls.

Serve hot, with a spoonful of yoghurt and a final sprinkle of parsley.

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Yotam says: “Pappare means ‘to gobble up’, in Italian, which is the destiny of this dish. I like it spicy, but the quantity of harissa can easily be reduced. Make the sauce 3 days ahead if you like and keep in the fridge until needed”

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Easy does it

Plum, blackberry & bay friand bake Serves 6, generously

Yotam says: Friands are light, moist almond cakes popular in Australia and New Zealand. Whisked egg whites and very little flour make them wonderfully light, and the ground almonds make them really moist. Traditionally they’re small cakes, but here I tip the batter into a baking dish and cook it whole. You can make the batter well in advance, if you want to get ahead – it keeps well in the fridge up to a day ahead – but don’t macerate the fruit for this amount of time as it will become too juicy. Serve with custard, vanilla ice-cream or cream. The fruit can be played around with, depending on the season. Raspberries and peaches can be used in the early summer months, for example”

200g blackberries 4 ripe plums, stones removed and cut into 1cm wide wedges (360g) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 60g caster sugar 3 fresh bay leaves 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 60g plain flour 200g icing sugar, sifted 120g ground almonds 8 teaspoons salt 150g egg whites (from 4-5 large eggs) 180g unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled METHOD Place the blackberries and plums in a bowl with the vanilla extract, sugar, bay leaves and ½ teaspoon of cinnamon. Set aside for 30 minutes. Don’t be tempted to leave them sitting around for longer than this, as the fruit will become too juicy.

Pre-heat the oven to 190°C fan.

Mix the flour, icing sugar, ground almonds, the remaining ½ teaspoon cinnamon and salt in a separate large bowl. Set aside.

Lightly whisk the egg whites by hand for 30 seconds, so they just start to froth. Stir into the flour mixture, along with the melted butter, until combined.

Tip the batter into a 20 x 30cm parchment-lined baking dish and top evenly with the fruit and juices. Bake for 40 minutes, covering the dish with foil for the final 10 minutes, until the batter is golden-brown and the fruit is bubbling. Set aside for 10 minutes before serving.

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2 3

4 5 From SIMPLE

by Yotam Ottolenghi with Tara Wigley and Esme Howarth, published by Ebury Press

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deck the

halls!

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Deck the halls!

There’s no better way to kick off the Christmas season than by breaking out the decorations and decking your halls with all things festive. If you’re looking for inspiration, these Christmas themes will jumpstart your holiday trimming

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SCANDI CHRISTMAS

W

e caught up with Tiina Svahn, merchandising stylist for Søstrene Grene Ireland, in the early preparation stage for the upcoming festive season, a busy time for her and her family who have moved to Dublin from Finland. “This year’s Christmas theme at Søstrene Grene is all about warm tones of plum, green and navy to complement the frosty outdoors and highlight the glow of gold and silver ornaments, and of course candlelight.

“The Scandinavian way of decorating the dinner table is all about natural items, being close to nature and bringing some of the outdoors inside. Materials like linen, wood, felt, leather and paper are key ingredients for homemade decorations.

“It’s not about looking glamorous, but feeling cosy and warm with homemade traditions. Gathering with the family to make decorations is almost as much fun as Christmas Day itself!” says Tiina.

“My own childhood Christmas in Finland was very minimal, stress-free and peaceful. Decorations, Advent calendars, gingerbread goodies were all homemade. Our front and back garden were decorated with ice lanterns. A real tree is the smell of winter. We also gathered in the kitchen to make all sorts of treats – smelling cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cardamom and cloves all evoke memories of the holiday season. There was always an extra sweet treat for the children at the table. We waited expectantly because Santa himself would visit us on Christmas Eve as obviously he only lives next door!

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Deck the halls!

“You can find more ideas on the Søstrene Grene YouTube channel, but here are a few of my top easy tips“

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Start with a plain tablecloth or runner to work as a backdrop for your décor.

Consider taking a cosy walk on the beach or forest to find treasures that could be placed in a shallow bowl or tray that will hold a pillar candle.

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A few extra branches from your tree, or some strands of ivy are also an easy way to bring some nature to your table.

Weave the strands of natural materials around tealights all down the length of the table or in a small circle for a round table.

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To add some extra light, select one branch to spray paint gold or silver and place it among green branches.

Pinecones can be left natural or decorated and used as placecard holders.

Some homemade sweet treats at each place are a nice way to welcome each guest.

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glitter 'n'

Next

gold

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Deck the halls!

The Christmas season is a great time to pull out all the stops and really make your home shimmer and shine.

The use of gold in your décor and accessories is a sure way to set your surroundings aglow.

Combine flashy accents on a bed of traditional evergreen or let the glitz stand alone.

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Styling your Christmas,

by Jo Malone London Create a sparkling atmosphere this Christmas with Jo Malone London’s top tips:

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Bring on the baubles…place them everywhere, from your tree to your tabletops. From vintage-look to all-out glitter, mix and match metallic colours and sizes for a quirky combination that’s the perfect blend of traditional and modern. A well-decorated tree is key – the more ornaments the better.

Hosting Christmas Eve drinks? Complement your festive tipple of choice with a delectable Orange Bitters winter candle. Let the candle warm your guests’ hearts and set the scene for the celebrations to come.

Table decorations are a Jo Malone London favourite. Think Christmas crackers, dressed in iridescent designs and filled with a sparkling selection of scent.

Fragrant table favours are sure to go down a treat – perfectly-sized travel candles will put a smile on any guest’s face.

If you’re playing host to family or friends, don’t forget to spruce up the guest bathroom with bath and body luxuries. Keep it classic with a Body & Hand Wash in rich and sensual Pomegranate Noir, or Lime Basil & Mandarin, the zesty signature scent.

To us, St. Stephen’s Day means sweet treats and relaxation. Light a Sweet Almond & Macaroon Home Candle, break out the chocolates and turn on your favourite festive flick. Heavenly!

Fragrant Room Sprays are a must for creating an instant impression. Prep your hallway before guests arrive with a burst of enticing scent. Keep one on hand for topping up throughout the day. The scent of choice? Pine & Eucalyptus, Jo Malone London’s festive favourite.

New Year’s Eve is all about sparkle, and the scent of the season has it in abundance.

Pop open a bottle of fizz and fill the air with the scent of a White Moss & Snowdrop Home Candle. A stylish scent for 2019.

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7 7 8 1 €34.99, Homesense 2 €23.99, Homesense 3 €9.99, Homesense 4 €5, Marks & Spencer

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€139.99, Homesense €9.99, Homesense €13, Next (set of 4) €9, Next (set of 20)

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N, CH W A

RIZO &

BA

E N I PR U G

O

Save space for

Prawn, chorizo & basil linguine Serves 4 1 x 250g chorizo ring Dried chilli akes 165g raw king prawns (jumbo shrimp) 1 garlic clove 500ml passata 500g dried linguine Fresh basil Olive oil Salt and pepper METHOD

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Slice the chorizo into bite-sized pieces.

SIL LIN

Add to a frying pan over a medium heat and Recipe from MOB Kitchen by Ben Lebus, published by Pavilion books

cook until crispy.

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Once crispy, add a pinch of dried

chilli akes and the raw prawns. Cook the prawns until they are pink, then add a chopped garlic clove.

Cook for a further 30 seconds, and then pour in the passata.

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Get the linguine on (follow the

instructions on the packet).

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Meanwhile, bubble the sauce down until

it is nice and thick. Then throw in a handful of chopped basil (keep some whole leaves to garnish) and season well with salt and pepper.

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Drain your pasta and pour it into the sauce.

Mix everything together and serve, with a drizzle of olive oil and the basil leaves scattered on top.

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