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daman.co.id vol.04/2017 idR80,000 S$10 US$18

mec hanism

CaleNdar

how our watChes traCk the days of the year

pages of

sexy

ins ider s

herMĂˆs

Timeless Timepieces

the importanCe of traditional know-how

oMeGa reaChing out to a new and ever-ConneCted generation

craf T s

fair

sihh 2017 opening its doors to the publiC for the very first time

baselworld 2017 Creative Collaborations permeate the industry

diaMoNds these preCious stones Can be a man’s best friend too

Cartier The Allure of Timeless elegAnce

C H A L L E N G E

E V E R Y T H I N G

H0 O R A N G E

THE TIME PLACE PA C I F I C P L A C E , J A K A R TA THE TIME PLACE P L A Z A I N D O N E S I A , J A K A R TA

H Y T WATC H E S . C O M

The Time Place Tunjungan Plaza IV, Upper Ground (031) 532 7991 INTime Grand Indonesia, West Mall Ground Floor, (021) 2358 1208 INTime Plaza Senayan, Level 1, (021) 572 5323 INTime Galeria Bali, Mal Bali Galeria 1st Floor, (0361) 767 039 INTime Paris Van Java, Ground Floor, (022) 8206 4135 INTime Sun Plaza Medan, Ground Floor, (061) 8051 2538

The Longines Master Collection

Contents 01

DAMAn caliber

Vol. 04

2017

I n - d e pth rep ortage on watc h fa I rs a nd watc hmak Ing

6

110

DAMAncaliber | 2017

68

Columns INSIDERS 68 | Bridging Generations Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann talks about the attaining new standards and reaching new generations

74 | A Man of Taste Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, talks about producing some of the world’s most elegant timepieces for men

116 86 | Change is About to Come After the recent acquisition of Swiss watch brand Frederique Constant by the Citizen group, Peter Stas reveals how things are moving at the watch brand

92 | Patience, Passion, Perfection Laurent Dordet, new CEO of La Montre Hermès, raps about the present and the future of the famed Parisian watchmaker

FAIR

CRAFTS

104 | Change is Coming

116 | A Cut Above

Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, the industry’s most exclusive trade show, welcomes new exhibitors and offers a pleasant surprise for the masses

110 | Rifts and Shifts Changes at the 2017 Baselworld Fair hinted at bigger, imminent shifts to materialize in the years to come

In the world of highend watchmaking, diamonds can often be a man’s best friend too

MECHANISM 122 | Days of the Year An in-depth look at calendars: The one horological complication that we use the most along with its extended family of variations

W A T C H

B E Y O N D

BR V2-94 BLACK STEEL | The Time Place Tunjungan Plaza Surabaya | INTime Grand Indonesia · Kelapa Gading · Plaza Senayan Galeria Bali · Paris Van Java Bandung · Pondok Indah Mall 2 · Senayan City · Seminyak Village Bali · Sun Plaza Medan | @Time Plaza Indonesia | Service Centre Menara Sudirman, JI.Jend.Sudirman Kav.60, 12Ath floor Tel: (62) 21 2927 2780 | www.bellross.com

Contents 02

DAMAn caliber

2017

Vol. 04

E x clus ivE brand storiEs and s ty li s h p hoto shoots

8

DAMAncaliber | 2017

56

98

features WATCH SPREADS 56 | Time on the Road Some of the most intriguing novelties of the year come from the collaboration of storied watch manufacturers and top tier automotive brands

cover Watch Drive De Cartier Extra-Flat in 39mm 18K pink gold case and leather strap Outfit Prada

80 | To All the Corners of the Globe By showing what time it is all across the world, watches

with the world time complication is a globetrotter’s best friend

98 | Nothing to Hide These stunning timepieces proudly showcase the intricate and scintilating movements ticking within through skeletonized dials

128 | The Allure of Timeless Elegance The distinctive watches from Cartier

has always formed a class of its own in haute horlogerie.

Combining timeless elegance and cuttingedge technology, the maison has produced some of the finest watches in the world meant for those with exquisite taste

LEGACY 136 | Timeless Creation Tank de Cartier—an exquisite collection

that has come through the ages with style and elegance—celebrates its first century

140 | Perpetually on Time An introduction to one of the most celebrated “families” in horology: Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendars

IWC INGENIEUR. ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMERS.

Ingenieur Chronograph. Ref. 3808: Do you think that sportiness and elegance can not coexist? We believe the opposite is true, because our new Ingenieur Chronograph has it all. With a design that was inspired by the early Ingenieur models from the 1950s, it closely resembles the dashboard instruments of historic racing cars. The IWC-manufactured 69375 calibre movement has a

chronograph function and enables you to stop times up to 12 hours. By using the central chronograph seconds hand in combination with the tachymeter scale, you can determine your average speed over a distance of 1000 metres. And thanks to the 18-carat red gold case and slate-coloured dial, it looks as fabulous at the wheel of a racy sports car as in any other situation in life.

IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN.

IWC-manufactured 69375 calibre, Self-winding, 46-hour power reserve when fully wound, Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds, Small hacking seconds, See-through sapphire-glass back, Screw-in crown, Luminescent elements on hands and dial, Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides, Water resistance 12 bar, Case height 15 mm, Diameter 42 mm

Exclusively available at: The Time Place – Pacific Place (Jakarta) , Plaza Indonesia (Jakarta) , Plaza Senayan (Jakarta), Tunjungan Plaza (Surabaya) • INTime - Senayan City (Jakarta) www.iwc.com FOLLOW US ON

@iwcwatches_sea

Contents 03

DAMAn caliber

Vol. 04

2017

A ro u n dup of news, events A nd wAtc h novelties

10

20 48

DAMAncaliber | 2017

360 degrees departments

36 | Quartz Timepieces

12 | Publisher’s Note

38 | Skull on the Dial

18 | Calendar A roundup of must-see watch-related events

20 | News This year’s headliners in the world of horology

167 | Index

essentials 24 | Steel and Gold Case

watch lab 40 | Fit for an Agent Thrilling adventures await with the TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45 Kingsman Special Edition

42 | The Holy Trilogy Omega’s 1957 Trilogy Limited Edition is literally a watch collector’s dream come true

26 | Blue Dials

44 | His and Hers

28 | Chronograph

The perfect offering from Longines for pairs who enjoy coordinated looks

30 | Dive Watches 32 | Moonphase

46 | Adventurous Aesthetics

34 | Tourbillon

Known for its mastery of cutting edge materials,

24 Rado is also bolstering its classic and vintage lines

48 | A View From the Bridge

women’s watches 156 | A Girl’s Best Friend 158 | Interchangeable Straps

Corum comes back with new interpretations of the Golden Bridge and the Bubble watches

160 | Double-Wrap Straps

50 | Mad Collab

162 | Moonphase

These Hublot novelties stand as this year’s finest marriages between two seemingly distant worlds

52 | Chronicles of the Chrono Master Zenith bites back with badass-looking chronographs, including the new El Primero

54 | Black is Back Bell & Ross’ new range of novelties create an appealing selection for younger collectors

164 | Pink Dials

sexy back 168 | A Study in Complexity At SIHH 2017, Vacheron Constantin presents its most complicated wristwatch yet

360 publisher’s note

12

Winds of Change

DAMAncaliber | 2017

c

hange is, of course, inevitable in the watchmaking business. But even as the Swiss watch industry picks itself up after weathering the effects of the global financial crisis, other developments irreversibly changes the landscape. For one, the watchmaking world has lost two influential figures: Walter Lange, founder of A. Lange & Söhne, and Roger Dubuis, founder of his own eponymous brand, both passed away this year.

We’ve also seen shifts in top management in top brands like Corum and Zenith, followed by the acquisition of Breitling by CVC. This marks the second major M&A following last year’s acquisition of Frederique Constant

by Citizen Group. The aftermath of these changes will decide the course of the industry in the years to come—and that’s putting it mildly.

It is, however, quite heartening to see the industry opening its door ever wider. Case in point, for the first time ever, we see the prestigious SIHH fair opening its doors to the general public. At the same time, we’re also seeing more and more brands introducing more and more entry level timepieces. It certainly paves the way for budding enthusiasts to take their first steps into the world of fine watches.

All that being said, change has always been a part of the watch world; so, perhaps these new developments shouldn’t surprise us all that much.

On the other hand, I can’t help but feel that, combined, these changes will have a ripple effect that we will be digging through next year and in the years to come.

And, naturally, big changes aside, the year has seen no shortage of novelties to be excited about: From Hublot’s collaboration with Berluti to Omega’s already-legendary trilogy and many more. So, as always, I invite you to delve into another year’s worth of top notch watchmaking.

daman_magazine daman_magazine daman.mag

Ronald Liem, Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

damanmagazineconnect Send your letter to the editor: publisher@destinasian.com

TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE HEUER 01

His art is Avant-Garde and his mindset is disruptive, two reasons among many why Alec Monopoly is TAG Heuer’s Art Provocateur. #DontCrackUnderPressure is the way he lives and the way he creates.

Plaza Senayan (021) 572 5137 Plaza Indonesia (021) 2992 3990 Senayan City (021) 7278 1601 Pacific Place (021) 5797 3725 Grand Indonesia (021) 2358 0685 Central Park (021) 2920 0422 Grand City (031) 5116 7018 Corners - The Time Place Tunjungan Plaza 4 (031) 532 7991 INTime Plaza Senayan (021) 572 5323 Pondok Indah Mall ll (021) 7592 0797 Mall Kelapa Gading 3 (021) 4584 8977 Paris Van Java (022) 8206 4135 Sun Plaza Medan (061) 8051 2538 Seminyak Village Bali (0361) 4741828 Galeria Bali (0361) 767039 Authorized Service Centre (021) 2927 2780

Volume 04 | 2017 14

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360 Degrees 20 New Man at the Helm julien tornare, a veteran From vaCheron ConStantin anD raymonD Weil, takeS over the helm oF zenith

24 Steel & Gold Case Steel anD golD, or oFten reFerreD to aS the “tWo-tone” ComBo, iS making a ComeBaCk thiS year

42 The Holy Trilogy either inDiviDually or aS a trio, omega’S 1957 trilogy limiteD eDition iS a ColleCtor’S Dream Come true

Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of Bulgari Watches Design Center

360 calendar

A roundup of must-see wAtch-relAted events

18

2018

horology forum DUBAI

A Changing Environment GenevA

Important new developments will be part of the 28th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). After opening its doors to the public for one day last year, the major event will jan be doing the same again in 2018. Furthermore, SIHH will also welcome some new prestigious exhibitors. The central aisles are extended for the arrival of Hermès, while a bigger Carré des Horlogers makes room for DeWitt, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Romain Gauthier.

These new arrivals bring the total number of exhibitors to 34, with 18 historic maisons and 16 Carré des Horlogers brands.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

15

lESS iS morE BASeL The watchmaking industry is currently going through a challenging phase, which particularly affects the global point of convergence where the leading players in maR the industry meet up: Baselworld. Due to the fact that Baselworld 2017 saw a decline in attendance —a total of 106,000 buyers from more than 100 countries attended Baselworld 2017, down 4 percent from the previous year—and reported a 13 percent drop in the number of exhibitors, the show organizers are shortening the show from eight to six days next year.

Scheduled to begin on march 22 until 27, Baselworld 2018 will maintain the attractiveness of the show and its global impact by remaining faithful to the strategy which favors quality and leverages diversity in all sectors.

22

oct nov

As a showcase for the tradition, culture and craftsmanship of watchmaking, Dubai Watch Week brings together newcomers and seasoned collectors to the wonders of time measurement in order to celebrate and better understand the art of horology. Every year, Dubai Watch Week unites the foremost names in watchmaking for curated programs consisting of panel discussions, meet-ups and many other private and public events. Dedicated to the preservation of watchmaking culture and heritage by creating one of the largest non-commercial events for the international watch community, this watch week provides an intimate environment for collectors, brands, watchmakers and members of the media to interact and share knowledge.

advertorial

19

Natural Reflection

Relish the histoRy, heRitage and heaRt of the Macallan with the bRand’s Most Reflective dRink to date: the Macallan Reflexion

A New ReAlity Going all the way back to 1824, to The Macallan1824 Masters Series of whiskies, it’s clear that this distillery has long prided itself on the natural color of its products. And through the years and decades to follow, each innovation

by The Macallan provides a different expression of the brand’s exceptional sherry casks.

The Macallan Reflexion is no exception. Selected directly by Bob Dalgarno, The Macallan’s Master Whisky Maker, this single malt draws its rich color and flavor as it matures in 250 liter hogshead casks made using

Spanish and American oak. The use of hogshead casks, in particular, allows for better interaction between the spirits and the surface of the casks, thereby creating a character driven by the intrinsic qualities of both types of wood.

DeeP ReFleCtiONS Looking at The Macallan Reflexion’s exquisite palette, it’s clear why it is placed in a luxuriously towering and angular faceted decanter, which is specifically designed to reflect the light off its natural beauty. Moreover, the shape is inspired by The Macallan’s iconic triangular shape, with its six facets representing the six foundations of this whisky.

Moving from the Reflexion’s outward appearance to its flavor, it all begins with heavy fruity notes like oranges and green apples on the nose. It then shifts towards sweeter flavors reminiscent of chocolate and fudge. On the palate, there’s an impressive depth, a succulent thickness, with hints of citrus subtly blended with touches of cinnamon and ginger. The finish is remarkably long and warming. Yet, there is a perfect balance that gives the whisky a creamy and velvety texture.

Certainly, this is the perfect whisky to accompany the modern gent as he reflects on his past, his present and a wonderful future.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Even before you take your first sip of The Macallan Reflexion, you’ll undoubtedly find yourself drawn in by its appearance. Obviously, there’s the exquisitely crafted bottle to take in.

Then there’s the depth of color of the whisky, the blood orange shade and the red mahogany hue.

What will intrigue newcomers and impress established connoisseurs is the simple fact that what you are looking at is, in fact, the result of the spirits’ aging process. This whisky, as they say, has no “fake tan” induced by caramel or other additions. The Reflexion’s color is naturally drawn out from the famed first-fill sherry seasoned oak casks where it was matured.

The Macallan Reflexion

360 news

20

headlines in the world of horology

2017

Walter Lange

TimeLeSS LeGAcy geneva

DAMAncaliber | 2017

T

New Man at the Helm switzerland

A

fter the resignation of Aldo Magada as CEO of Zenith last year, Jean-Claude Biver, the head of watchmaking at LVMH, announced that he would be acting as interim CEO for the brand. Giving himself a six-month deadline to find somebody fill the position—as he has other obligations as chairman of Hublot and CEO of TAG Heuer—he successfully found a replacement in under four months, appointing Julien Tornare as the new CEO for Zenith. An old-timer in the watch industry, Tornare has spent the last 17 years at Vacheron Constantin and before that at Raymond Weil. It will surely be interesting to see what Julien Tornare will bring to Zenith, as well as the upcoming timepieces to be released under the Swiss brand.

his year saw the passing of two great legends in the watchmaking industry.

Walter Lange, founder of the Saxon luxury watch brand A. Lange & Söhne, passed away on January 17 at the age of 92. Walter has left an indelible mark in the industry with creations like the Lange 1, which revolutionized the watch industry with its decentralized dial. The brand stated: “Thanks to his courage, his vision, his critical spirit and his sincere interest in the people around him, he was not only a symbol of continuity, but also a father figure with whom people could identify.” Roger Dubuis, who created his eponymous watch brand in 1995, also passed away this year on October 14 at the age of 79. An official statement released by the Richemont Group credited “his renowned expertise in Haute Horlogerie, his disruptive vision, his human values.”

Roger Dubuis

360 news

A New Chapter

22

JAKArTA

L

the eDGe of Glory

ast August, omega launched its largest boutique in Indonesia located at the ground floor of Mall Kelapa Gading 3. Covering a total area of 124 square meters, the boutique’s main draw is an atmosphere inspired by the brand’s most prominent lines, including the Constellation, Seamaster, Speedmaster and De Ville. Naturally, the store incorporates themes such as water, earth and time—the three elements that are parts of Omega’s design concept.

Like any Omega flagship boutique around the world, the boutique is furnished with marble walls, walnut carpets, bright ceiling beams and various beige-sand accents—all of which represents Omega’s emblem and its lasting tradition of innovative craftsmanship.

genevA

DAMAncaliber | 2017

f

rom legendary footballers to acclaimed singers alike, Tudor has appointed various familiar and prominent brand ambassadors for this year’s #BorntoDare campaign. the most recent, and most surprising, addition to the group is lady Gaga, the first female ambassador for tudor. the daring pop icon is chosen in light of her “unique recipe for success: raw talent, hard work, bold choices and immense gratitude to her fans, her ‘little monsters’ as she calls them.” She is preceded by a multitude of “daring” people including David Beckham and Beauden Barett, star of the New Zealand All Blacks championship rugby team. talking of which, the luxury watch brand has also partnered up with the All Blacks team and is the official sponsor of the Dhl New Zealand lions Series 2017.

come fly with me luxembourg

l

ast April, cVc capital Partners (cVc) acquired an 80-percent stake in Breitling, with the other 20-percent held by théodore Schneider, Breitling’s owner and former majority shareholder. “i am convinced cVc is the right partner to elevate Breitling to the next level,” said Schneider. “Using our network and expertise, cVc will work to make this global, iconic brand even more renowned and help shape the future of one of Switzerland’s last independent watch manufacturers,” said Daniel Pindur, Senior managing Director at cVc. “Specifically, we see significant growth potential for Breitling in both existing and new geographies by driving the digitization of the marketing and distribution channels in the company, helping to enrich the product and customer experience.”

the SileNt riDer

23

hong Kong

U

nbeknownst to many, citychamp watch and Jewelry has appointed Jérôme Biard as ceo of Corum and Eterna, replacing Davide traxler, the interim ceo of both brands. As Biard is a man who dislikes pageantry, the announcement came without any grandeur or fanfare. in reality, Biard had taken over management of both brands since September 1. having been in the watch industry for 25 years, including 16 years for the richemont group as sales and marketing manager for Vacheron constantin and cartier, it’s safe to say that Biard and his extensive experience in the industry will be an important asset to corum and eterna.

New Move JAKArTA

PArtNerS iN time genevA

t

he new Tudor heritage Black Bay chronograph is known to be the brand’s first manufacture chronograph movement. the development of the caliber mt5813, however, involved assistance from Breitling and its caliber B01. tudor ended up adding its own oscillating weight, silicon balance spring and more. Breitling, in turn, used tudor’s caliber mt5612 movement for its Superocean heritage ii model, which is renamed the B20.

A win-win situation? it definitely seems so. while neither brand officially announced the partnership or the length of the deal, it definitely looks like it will go on for quite a while, since the tudor heritage chronograph and the Breitling Superocean heritage ii are both permanent pieces rather than limited edition runs.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

I

nterval Indonesia opened its doors in Indonesia earlier this year, bringing to the Indonesian market an extensive number of international watch brands, including Bomberg, Graham, L’Epee 1839 and Bernard Favre. The brand chose PIK Avenue mall for the location of its first boutique, which measures 160 square meters and features a design that follows the brand’s DNA: unique, modern dynamic. “The opening of our first boutique in Jakarta underlines the importance of the Indonesian market to our brands,” says Ian Chandra, Director of Interval Indonesia.

“At Interval, we bring in selected timepiece and accessories brands based on our criteria of technical sophistication, exciting design and positioning that we know will appeal to young and affluent Indonesian market that has shown a strong demand for luxurious yet extraordinary timepieces.”

watCh 101

1

watCh anatomy 01

Steel & Gold CaSe

Steel and gold, or often referred to aS “two-tone,� iS making a comeback thiS year

the faCe of a watCh has these elements:

absolute purity Bulgari Octo Roma

1 2

3 4 5

Case is a container that protects the dial and the timekeeping mechanism inside. The basic material is stainless steel, or simply shortened as steel by most watch brands.

1

2

Crown is a rotatable

3

Dial typically

knob outside the case (normally placed at 3 o’clock) to adjust the time.

It is necessary to keep the crown in a locked position when underwater. showcases the time: hours and minutes, along with other features. The hour markers are usually in Arabic or Roman numerals, or simply batons.

flange is the outermost rim of a dial. It can accommodate a tachymeter, which helps measure things like distance or velocity.

4

5

hanDs are indicators of

time, often shaped like long batons hanging from the central axis and pointing at the respective hours, minutes or seconds.

The Octo collection from Bulgari is reinterpreted in an approach taking the formal purity of the octagon to unprecedented extremes, and the new Octo Roma adds a further dimension to this quest. Bulgari was careful enough to highlight the perfectly balanced proportions serving to express the decisive elements of the shape. The iconic case of Octo Roma has been subtly reworked to ensure even greater comfort and ease, while retaining its inherent strength. With the caliber BVL 191 Solotempo ticking inside, the new Octo Roma comes Case size: 41mm Case material: material Steel as an elegant and and pink Gold urban version that Dial: Silver-toned strap: Brown alliGator leather still respects the movement: Bvl 191 Solotempo, automatiC fundamentals of the power reserve: 42 hourS water resistanCe: 50m original model.

edge of style

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Chronometer since its launch in 2003, the omega seamaster Aqua terra has become a cornerstone collection for omega. for 2017, omega added a slightly different two-tone version in the 2017 seamaster Aqua terra collection. While the dial and overall shape is equal to the steel models, there are some differences present. the 41mm case is offered in a combination of steel and 18K sedna gold for the bezel and the crown. the dial is silver with black inscriptions and no color details, keeping the watch rather subtle. Powered by either the omega Master Chronometer Caliber 8800 or 8900, which are both swiss federal Case size: 41mm Case material: StainleSS Steel Institute of Metrology (MetAs)Dial: Silvery certified movements, this new watch strap: BlaCk ruBBer movement: 8900, automatiC gives the perfect balance between power reserve: 60 hourS water resistanCe: 150m sophistication and ocean spirit.

essentials 360

a new expression

25

Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon GMT Black, Steel and Pink Gold

Created in 2002, the Tambour marked Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking debut. Fifteen years later, the Tambour is celebrated through a new version that holds up its original essence. This year, Louis Vuitton released the Tambour Moon GMT. Powered by a self-winding caliber, this new Tambour Moon GMT Case size: 41.5mm represents one of Louis Vuitton’s most Case material: StainleSS Steel cherished themes: travel. With the rice Dial: Sand-BlaSted matte BlaCk grain pattern that recalls the weave of the strap: interChanGeaBle Damier Graphite fabric at the center and ruBBer, leather and louiS vuitton faBriCS GMT function, this new expression of the movement: Self windinG CaliBer Tambour adheres to the aesthetic codes power reserve: 42 hourS water resistanCe: 50m that made the original such a success.

Modern dIver

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel And Gold

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Presented at Baselworld 2017, tudor’s famous Heritage Black Bay divers’ watch is now available in a new steel and gold version. the Black Bay s&g, as it is called, comes with some aesthetic updates and characteristic elements drawn from tudor’s history. the new watch inherits its general lines, as well as its domed dial and crystal, from the brand’s first diving watches. the lines and proportions of the Black Bay are retained, while the rotating bezel and the winding crown bring a new expression to the watch. driven by the in-house Case size: 41mm movement caliber Case material: material Mt5612, the models in poliShed and Satin finiSh Dial: BlaCk domed this line combine key strap: Steel and yellow Gold aesthetics from historical BraCelet or aGed leather movement: mt5612, automatiC as well as modern day power reserve: 70 hourS watchmaking know-how. water resistanCe: 200m

2

watCh 101

1

1 3

watCh anatomy 02 the baCk of a watCh has these elements: 5

4

Case-baCk

refers to the back of a watch. Some have transparent, sapphire-covered backs to reveal the movement.

Jewels, such as synthetic rubies, are often used as bearings for gears of an automatic or manual-winding movement.

2

3

lugs are the

projected parts of a case that connect to a bracelet or strap.

The shape can vary from one model to another.

rotor is a mechanical piece that winds and powers an automatic movement. The size may vary between watches.

4

5

strap is a

wristwatch band that connects to the lugs. The material used may be leather, fabric, or various metals.

360 essentials

26

revolutionary moment Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary

Back in 1957, Piaget revolutionized the watchmaking world by launching an ultra-thin watch that defined a new code of elegance.

This year, to mark the 60th anniversary of the launch of the iconic Altiplano, Piaget combined its expertise in ultra-thin movements and released two variants—a 38mm limited edition model of 460 pieces and a 43mm limited edition of 360 pieces—that are much more in line with contemporary tastes. The historical “Piaget Automatique” inscription which appeared on the very first ultrathin timepiece by the Maison, also seals the deal Case size: 43mm on this new model. Fitted with the 1200P ultraCase material: WHite gold Dial: blue thin mechanical movement, this Piaget Altiplano strap: blue alligator leatHer movement: Piaget manufacture is a watch expressing supreme distinction and 1200P, automatic power reserve: 44 Hours consistently in tune with its times.

mecHanical memory

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Hermès unveiled an updated version of the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel, this time in platinum with a deep blue dial. This new timepiece inherits the sleek, minimalist lines of the maison’s Slim watches and in addition, sports a dark blue dial, giving the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpetual Platine a stylish new visage. Powered by the in-house caliber H1950, it shows the date in the top sub-dial, the month and leap year cycle on the left and the moonphase on the right, with a second time zone hour indicator with day/ night functionality at 6 o’clock. With its new Slim Quantième Case size: 39.5mm Case material: Platinum Perpétuel Platine Dial: blue line, Hermès unites strap: abyss blue alligator movement: H1950, automatic the full spectrum of power reserve: 42 Hours fine watchmaking. water resistanCe: 30m

watCh 101

Dial treatments some basiC types of Dial treatments are:

• super-luminova is

actually a brand name for a glow-in-thedark material mostly applied on watch indexes on a dial. This treatment comes in a wide variety of colors.

• GuilloChe is a

general term for the engraving of a repetitive pattern on a dial. Breguet is one of the foremost authorities on guilloche motifs.

• enamel is a type of

pigment that dries to form a hard, glossy finish. Enamel painting on a watch dial covers quite a large number of different techniques.

• enGravinG refers

to patterns or illustrations that are carved, cut or etched onto the dial surface.

Popular variations include embossing and relief carving.

• Gem settinG covers

various methods of attaching gemstones to a watch’s dial.

Some of the more luxe forms of this include snow-setting and pavé.

2

blue dials

Blue dials are still one of the hottest style trends in the watch world

watCh 101

watCh movement the three types of watCh movements are:

Casually elegant

Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5168G

Paying tribute to the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut launched in 1997, Patek Philippe has released the ref. 5168G. Originally, the Aquanaut was made in stainless steel and comes with a black dial; but this 2017 model features a hefty white gold case and a striking blue dial. The proportions and styling remain intact, with the same lines and the same mix of polishing on the edges and brushing on the top of the bezel.

Powered by the caliber 324 SC, the Patek Philippe ref. 5168G delivers proof of the Case size: 42mm Aquanaut’s legacy by Case material: WHite gold Dial: blue PVd coating crowning 20 years of strap: comPosite material contemporary casual WitH cHeckerboard Pattern chic that has always movement: 324 sc, automatic been the defining style power reserve: 45 Hours water resistanCe: 120m of this collection.

caPTain’S orDerS Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook

Based on a watch of the same name—minus the “Hyperchrome” bit, that is—created by rado back in 1962, the Hyperchrome captain cook bears a faithful resemblance to the sweet little diver. The watch comes with a solid caseback, which is a screw-down type with three seahorses engraved on it and the text “one out of 1962” around the perimeter, referring to the total number of watches made and to the year this series of watches first debuted. Driven by eTa c07.611 movement, the watch features a red numeral date wheel and a quaint “captain Case size: 37mm cook” inscription just like the Case material: grade 5 titanium Dial: blue sunbrusHed dial original. all in all, it’s a muststrap: blue textile have timepiece for men who movement: eta c07.611, automatic want to pull off a hip casual power reserve: 80 Hours look with style and whimsy. water resistanCe: 200m

manual winding is a

movement that is powered by manually winding the crown. The maximum energy stored in a watch from that winding is called the power reserve. This movement is normally used in fine timepieces.

automatiC or self-winding

movements have a rotor at the back, which will swivel—due to the wearer’s hand movements—and store some of the kinetic energy to power the movement of the watch.

This type is most widely used in Swiss watches.

Quartz is a movement that

uses a battery. Technically speaking, the movement has an electronic oscillator regulated by a quartz crystal to keep track of time. Swatch, Seiko and Casio are a few of the big players in this field.

waTCh 101

Chronographs milesTones in The hisTory oF The Chronograph

3

chronograph One Of the mOst usable cOmplicatiOns alsO makes fOr quite an impressive sight

For A Good CAuSe

IWC Da Vinci Chronograph Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation” IWC Schaffhausen has been a Global Partner of Laureus Sport for Good—a charitable organization with the aim of using the power of sport to end violence and discrimination—since 2005. As part of this cooperation, IWC launches a limited special edition watch each year and part of the proceeds from sales helps to finance the Foundation’s projects. For this year, the 11th Laureus special edition has an eye-catching blue dial and the traditional back engraving. The in-house 89361-caliber chronograph movement combined with newly Case size: 42mm Case maTerial: StainleSS Steel designed articulated strap horns Dial: blue and curved lugs ensure that the sTrap: black alligator leather movemenT: 89361, automatic black leather strap from Santoni power reserve: 68 hourS fits comfortably on the wrist. waTer resisTanCe: 30m

1816 – French horologist, sculptor and painter Louis Moinet unveils the very first chronograph, which was designed for working with astronomical equipment.

1913 – Longines introduces the first monopusher chronograph wristwatch powered by the brand’s 13.33Z caliber movement.

1967 – A new version of the Heuer Autavia became the first chronograph wristwatch featuring a rotating tachymeter bezel.

1969 – The first automatic chronograph (a joint venture of Heuer, Breitling, Buren and Dubois-Depraz) was released.

The Fusion of Three

Hublot Classic Fusion Italia Independent

In the world of possibilities, what do you get when you mix the watchmaking expertise of Hublot, the limitless creativity of Italia Independent through its founder Lapo Elkann and the treasures of famous Italian tailor Rubinacci? The answer is none other than the Classic Fusion Italia Independent.

Since 2014, two collections based on the legendary Big Bang Unico model have been born from the partnership. But, this year, the magic of the wildly creative team was unleashed on the Classic Fusion model. Driven by the HUB1143 and combined Case size: 45mm Case maTerial: Satin-finiSh and with a collection of tartans poliShed titanium Dial: authentic fabric from a in the Classic Fusion as a rubinacci “prince of WaleS” Suit chronograph, the dial and sTrap: authentic fabric from also the straps, the Classic a rubinacci “prince of WaleS” Suit With gray Stitching and Fusion Italia Independent blue rubber movemenT: hub1143, automatic truly represents the epitome power reserve: 42 hourS waTer resisTanCe: 50m of elegance.

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THe CHoSen one Tag Heuer Autavia

Autavia, the legendary driver’s chronograph from the 1960s, is making a comeback in 2017. The 2017 Autavia will be presented in a 42mm stainless steel case, which is a little more imposing than the original reference, which measures 39mm. As innovative as the original was, this contemporary model is the result of an interactive campaign called the “Autavia Cup” run in 2016. From a choice of 16 vintage models, more than 50,000 web users voted for a reissue of the Autavia rindt worn by the famous F1 driver Jochen rindt. With the old-school Heuer and Autavia logos at 12 o’clock, and a new Heuer-02 caliber, Case size: 42mm this iconic model Case maTerial: StainleSS Steel Dial: mark three dial in celebrates its 55th reverSe panda anniversary in the sTrap: aged leather Strap movemenT: heuer-02, automatic form of a stunning power reserve: 80 hourS neo-retro successor. waTer resisTanCe: 100m

aesthetically pleasing

This year, with a focus on embracing Minerva’s heritage through its new designs, Montblanc is revamping the TimeWalker collection. As a part of the reimagined collection, Montblanc has released the TimeWalker Chronograph UTC. Powered by the caliber MB 25.03 and with the ability to display three time zones plus two vertically aligned subsidiary dials for the chronograph laid out like an old car dashboard, the watch is completed with a Minerva-inspired arrowhead tip Case size: 43mm Case maTerial: black dlc on the chronograph seconds hand. With coated With ceramic Dial: black functionality and aesthetics like this, surely sTrap: rubber or leather Strap movemenT: mb 25.03, automatic this would be an ideal addition to the power reserve: 46 hourS watch collection of frequent travelers. waTer resisTanCe: 100m

waTCh 101

Chronographs Types meeT The exTenDeD Family oF CompliCaTions

normal The most

common type of chronograph with two buttons: A start/stop button at the top and a second reset button at the bottom.

monopusher The start/stop and reset functions are all mapped to the same button. As such, once stopped, it can only be reset to zero.

FlybaCk When the second button is pushed, the seconds hand will “fly back” to zero and keep on running. This is useful for timing multiple laps.

raTTrapanTe The most complicated type of chronograph with three buttons: Start/stop, reset and a split second button.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph UTC

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ocean antiques

Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC there’s an incredible and long history behind the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms MiL-sPec. one of its most prominent moments of fame was when it introduced the circular water-tightness indicator, which gives the wearer a signal if liquid leaks into the watch case by changing the disk color at 6 o’clock from white to red. it became so popular, in fact, that the Fifty Fathoms became standard-issue for american combat swimmers. the new Blancpain tribute to Fifty Fathoms MiLsPec features a platinum alloy and solid gold winding rotor Case sIze: 40.3mm along with a Blancpain logo Case materIal: stainless that is visible through the clear steel DIal: black and silver sapphire case back. in addition, strap: natO, sailclOth the balance spring is crafted and steel movement: 1151, from silicon, which allows it to autOmatic be much lighter, more shockpower reserve: 96 hOurs water resIstanCe: 300m resistant and impermeable to lImIteD eDItIon: 500 magnetic fields. pieces

Into the Blue DAMAncaliber | 2017

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio – 42mm

One of the things that make Panerai truly distinguishable is its Italian heritage. Even in the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio diver’s watch, you can see from afar that there’s an indescribable Italian aesthetic to it. Launched in two versions, red gold and stainless steel case (pictured), the design follows the classic Panerai Submersible design, with a unidirectional rotating bezel and the lever device protecting the winding crown. But what sets this watch apart from its predecessors is the 42mm case, as opposed to its usual 47mm case. The watch also Case sIze: 42mm Case materIal: stainless sports a clear design with its black steel DIal: black background, while the Panerai blue strap: rubber movement: p.9010, autOmatic color on the seconds hands provides power reserve: 72 hOurs a luxurious touch to the design. water resIstanCe: 300m

watCh 101

CraCkIng Iso 6425 DIve watChes are regulateD By Iso 6425 as follows:

Unidirectional Bezel The bezel is not only rotatable but also marked with a five-minute elapsed time indicator. This is extremely useful to mark dive times.

Water resistance The minimum water resistance required is 100 meters. It is also advised not to pull a watch crown during a dive to prevent water penetrating the watch.

GloW in the dark The watch can be read at a minimum distance of 25cm in total darkness. This is where the Super-LumiNova glow-in-the-dark coating comes in.

case resistance The watchcase has to withstand rust, corrosion and changing temperatures. The watchband can be made of either rubber or stainless steel.

rUnninG time There should be a time indicator that shows the watch still functioning during a dive. That is why most dive watches have a seconds hand.

watCh 101

4

dive watches

DIve watChes DID rolex or omega Create the fIrst DIve watCh? now you know:

ExplorE thE dEEp sEas in EasE and stylE with watchEs ExpErtly dEsignEd to go undEr thE wavEs

tHe ProFessionaL Diver

The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s Grand seiko has undergone drastic changes ever since it separated from seiko. With the Grand seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s, it wonderfully showcases its new identity. For one, the watch boasts a large case at 46.9mm and thickness of 17mm. Grand seiko’s expertise can also be seen through the watch’s 9s hi-beat caliber and dial, which is made purely from iron to protect the movement from magnetic fields. the watch comes in two variations: one with a black dial that will be a permanent part of the Grand seiko collection as well as one with a blue dial that is offered with Case sIze: 46.9mm Case materIal: titanium an extra-strength silicone strap.

DIal: black and blue the latter is part of Grand seiko’s strap: titanium movement: 9s85, autOmatic limited editions, with only 500 power reserve: 55 hOurs units produced. water resIstanCe: 600m

1926 – Rolex launched the

first patented waterproof watch, called the Oyster.

Swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore it when crossing the English Channel.

1932 – Omega released a

rectangular Marine watch— the first dive watch with a removable case. The watch was water-resistant up to 135 meters.

Color Dive

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

Ever since its introduction in 1993, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore series has been very popular among watch enthusiasts for its bold and thick design that screams adventure.

Just last year, Audemars Piguet introduced the Diver Chronograph edition that’s highly noticeable with its vibrant dial and straps.

And this year, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver is reintroduced as a nonchronograph model. Available in colors including dark blue, lime green and bright orange, the new Royal Oak Offshore Diver models are stylishly complemented with dials and rubber straps in matching colors. Naturally, the new model still retains many Case sIze: 42mm elements of its predecessor. This Case materIal: stainless steel DIal: blue includes the eight-screwed steel strap: rubber movement: 3120, autOmatic octagon bezel and the Méga power reserve: 60 hOurs Tapisserie pattern. water resIstanCe: 300m

1933 – Designed at the

request of the Pasha of Marrakech, the Pasha de Cartier was among the first waterproof watches.

1956 – Ocean explorer

Jacques Cousteau wore a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch in the famous silent underwater film “Le Monde du Silence.”

watCH 101

5

HanDs & numerals tHe basiC types of HanDs anD numerals are as follows:

moonphase

The elegance of asTronomical precision aT 6 o’clock

• HanDs Common shapes:

moonlight on platinum Chopard L.U.C Lunar One

squeleTTe

sword

bregueT

dauphine

• numerals Three basic kinds:

1. Arabic 2. Stick/baton 3. Roman 11

12

1 2

10

3

9 8

Since 2015, in the world of Chopard’s Haute Horlogerie collection, the L.U.C Lunar One has over the years become a stellar model. The L.U.C Lunar One flagship model of the L.U.C collection is now available in a new limited edition of 100-pieces with a case entirely made of 950 platinum. Driven with the Caliber 96.13-L, this Chopard’s perpetual calendar model is the manufacture’s vision of extreme horological complexity.

Distinguished by its unique moonphase display—indicating the exact appearance of the current moon—that comes with multiple indications and elaborate Case size: 43mm finishing, the L.U.C Case material: 950 platinUm Dial: galvanic blUe and sUnrayLunar One is an satin finished essential item for strap: hand-sewn matt blUe alligator leather modern gentlemen movement: l.U.c 96.13-l, aUtomatic with a taste for power reserve: 65 hoUrs water resistanCe: 50m exceptional objects.

4 7

6

5

EffortlEssly stylish

1

Drive de Cartier Moon Phase

2 Xi

Xii

i ii

X

iii

iX viii

iv vii

vi

3

v

Created in 2016, the Drive de Cartier collection is designed for the man who flaunts an independent mind and a keen sense for fashion. As the newest face of the collection, the Drive de Cartier Moon Phase is now completed with the new manufacture movement 1904-lU MC. A distinctive moonphase complication—needing to be corrected by one day only every 125 years—displayed at 6 o’clock tracks the cycle of new moons, half-moons and full moons.

With wearability as the main idea, Case size: 40mm Drive de Cartier Moon Phase watch Case material: steel stays true to the signature aesthetic Dial: silver strap: semi-matte black of the Drive de Cartier collection. alligator skin Whether paired with a casual chic movement: 1904-lU mc, aUtomatic outfit or black tie attire, this watch is power reserve: 48 hoUrs a dapper choice for every occasion. water resistanCe: 30m

essentials 360

exclusive Display

33

Rolex Cellini Moonphase

Looking back through history, the last time Rolex produced a watch with a moonphase was in the early 1950s. This year, the complication makes a comeback with the Cellini Moonphase. This new model is driven by a self-winding mechanical movement—caliber 3195—entirely manufactured

by Rolex. With a sweet-looking complication, this patented moonphase Case size: 39mm indicator is astronomically accurate for 122 Case material: 18k everose gold years and then will only need one day’s Dial: white lacqUer with worth of correcting. With a tiny bit of blUe moonphase strap: brown alligator classical styling and contemporary visuals, leather movement: 3195, aUtomatic surely Rolex will be making waves for years power reserve: 48 hoUrs water resistanCe: 50m to come.

CoMPlEtE PACkAgE

As the second A. lange & söhne timepiece endowed with the eponymous calendar function, the 1815 Annual Calendar comes with a calculated moonphase—integrated into the subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock— which will remain accurate for 122.6 years.

Not stopping there, the watch is also fitted with the new manually-wound caliber l051.3 and analogue date, day and month indications as well as the moonphase. the 1815 Annual Calendar presents itself as a classic interpretation of a complication that Case size: 40mm Case material: white and is both attractive and pink gold useful. And finally, it Dial: solid silver argente with moonphase is living proof of the strap: hand-stitched black ambitious standards alligator leather movement: l051.3, aUtomatic of traditional saxon power reserve: 48 hoUrs watchmaking artistry. water resistanCe: 30m

watCH 101

watCHing tHe moon a sHort intro to tHe most romantiC HorologiCal CompliCation

Quick facts • A moonphase complication tracks the phase (new, full, half or quarter ) of the moon.

• The phases of the moon are shown on a rotating disc through a half-circle/

“bosom” aperture or on a radial aperture which uses a conventional hand.

• The exact length of the lunar cycle (29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds) creates a challenge in terms

of accuracy. Common moonphase displays use a 59-tooth driving wheel and needs to be adjusted every 2.5 years; refined ones with a 135-tooth wheel can stay accurate for more than 120 years.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar

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34

MiniMALisTiC ConsTRuCTion

Bell & Ross BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor

The watch is the movement, the movement is the watch. This is Bell & Ross’ mantra for this BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor. Fitted with panoramic sapphire crystals front and back, enhancing their transparency and letting more light into the movement, Bell & Ross is going extreme into the simplification of watchmaking construction. The movement—BR-CAL.380—is not housed in a traditional case, but it’s framed inside a holder, while the frame is cut from a solid plate of stainless steel as thin as the movement itself. All Case size: 42.5mm in all, this bold design Case material: StainleSS Steel Dial: SkeletoniSed and conspicuous strap: Gray alliGator movements are mOvement: Br-Cal.380, automatiC testament to Bell & pOwer reserve: 50 hourS Ross’ identity. water resistanCe: 50m

One of a Kind

Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis

DAMAncaliber | 2017

To provide a maximum of visibility on the tourbillon and its fascinating double rotation. This is the basic idea behind the new MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis from Hublot. Fitted with the caliber HUB9009.H1.RA, it also features a bi-axial tourbillon that undertakes a complete rotation per minute on the first axis and a rotation every 30 seconds on the second. Combining cutting edge technology and complex construction, this watch comes in two distinct versions: in titanium or in King Case size: 49mm Case material: titanium and Gold. By designing a fine watchmaking kinG Gold movement devoted to this objective, Dial: multi-layered BlaCk and red and then creating an original case that strap: BlaCk StruCtureS lined ruBBer highlights the in-house caliber, Hublot mOvement: huB9009.h1.ra, automatiC once again demonstrates its capacity in all pOwer reserve: 120 hourS areas of fine watchmaking. water resistanCe: 30m

watCh 101

a Case Of tOurbillOn a tOurbillOn watCh Can Often fetCh astrOnOmiCal priCes. but what is it aCtually?

Quick facts • The tourbillon was invented by A. L. Breguet (founder of the Breguet brand) in 1795 to counter the effects of gravity. In the past, pocket watches were often kept vertically

in a pocket, causing the escapement to become stuck in a single position.

The tourbillon rotates the escapement so that the effect of gravity’s pull is distributed evenly across all axes.

• Unlike pocket watches of the past, today’s watches no longer suffer from the same gravity-induced inaccuracy issues. A tourbillon has, therefore, become a status symbol rather than a necessity.

6

tourBillon

Timepieces wiTh one of The mosT exciTing horological complicaTions To waTch: The Tourbillon

supeRB CoMBinATion

Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon Grand Feu Historically, the Marine collection pays tribute to marine chronometers that the company’s founder, ulysse nardin, was famous for. This time, the ulysse nardin Marine Tourbillon Grand Feu combines functionality with enduring style. At the heart of this timepiece is a Grand Feu white enamel dial, made in-house by ulysse nardin enamel specialists Donzé Cadrans. Fitted with the new caliber un-128 and a flying tourbillon, the watch shows the brand’s development capability and continued independence in terms of movement manufacture. The roman numerals—that instantly mark the watch as belonging to the Marine Collection—completes Case size: 43mm Case material: StainleSS Steel a Marine Tourbillon whose Dial: Grand feu enamel combination of technical and strap: BlaCk alliGator leather mOvement: un-128, automatiC artistic excellence forms a new pOwer reserve: 60 hourS modern classic. water resistanCe: 100m

watCh 101

COmmOn COmpliCatiOns sOme basiC watCh features Or COmpliCatiOns are:

1

Jumping hour is when

the hour hand jumps from one hour marker to another, instead of sweeping around the dial. Similarly, there are jumping minutes and jumping seconds.

Date complication may take the form of a simple date window, a day-date display or complications such as an annual calendar or even a perpetual calendar.

2

3

chronograph is

essentially a stopwatch on a wristwatch. A flyback chronograph enables a single press to reset and immediately restart a lap. A rattrapante or split-second chronograph can time two different laps at once.

Dual time zone has two different time zones shown on a dial. This is especially useful for those who often travel and need to be aware of local time as well as the time back home.

4

first and foremost

Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time

For the first time in its history, the master watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre have combined a flying tourbillon with universal time, allowing the time in twenty-four cities around the world to be read simultaneously. Featuring the new Calibre 948, the Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time embodies this inventive spirit in a unique and universal way. On the front side, under the dome of its sapphire crystal, the watch presents a 360-degree view of the entire world. Available in a limited series of only 100 pieces, the Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time watch is a tribute to the manufacture's Case size: 43.5mm remarkable Case material: platinum Dial: Convex Shape watchmaking skills strap: Blue alliGator Skin mOvement: 948, automatiC expressed through the pOwer reserve: 48 hourS water resistanCe: 50m watch's ease-of-use.

5

astronomical

6

repeater is a chiming

complications vary from the moon phase, which shows the moon cycle, to an equation of time, which tracks solar time, to a planetarium model, which keeps track of planetary movement. mechanism that audibly tells the time. Take a look at the this issue’s Mechanism column in this issue for more information. tourbillon (see the watch 101 section in the previous page) can now appear in even more complex forms, including double- and triple-axis tourbillons, the flying tourbillon as well as brand-specific innovations.

7

WatCh 101

WatChbaND styliNG eaCh motif or DesiGN fits a speCifiC purpose:

7

Quartz timepieceS This year sees quarTz waTches painTed in a new and more favorable lighT

CroC embossed This is one of the standard patterns for dress watches.

persoNAl touCh

rally With large holes near the lugs, the strap is intended for racers.

Baume & Mercier My Classima

Nowadays, each element of style speaks of the wearer’s character and silently expresses the different facets of one’s personality. And a watch is, of course, no exception. It is in this spirit that Baume & Mercier created My Classima, a new set of watches in the Classima collection. Featuring roman numerals, a date aperture at 3 o’clock and a sophisticated steel case, which is known for being quite comfortable on the wrist, this new watch comes with a closed caseback with space to engrave a message, Case size: 31, 36.5, 40mm date or initials. Its design distills Case material: StainleSS Steel Dial: White and Sun-Satin the reflection of the brand’s finiShed Blue rich heritage, and becomes the strap: StainleSS Steel Bracelet and leather perfect piece to commemorate a movemeNt: eta Quartz moment of a lifetime.

Water resistaNCe: 50m

double ridges A very subtle pair of ridges on the strap adds a sporty nuance to the watch.

Contrast stitChing Bold-colored stitches along the edges of a leather strap add a unique touch.

New Generation Pilot Pilot straps are simple leather straps with a pair of rivets near the lugs to ensure a firm grip. nato Popularized by the Royal Air Force in the 1970s, NATO or G10 refers to the styling of fabric straps with buckles and keepers to ensure a firm grip.

Nylon is often used for NATO straps. Meanwhile, ZULU is actually a brand that sells NATO straps with a thicker band (sometimes leather) and rounded hardware.

Breitling Colt Skyracer

Born for speed and challenges, the Colt Skyracer is named after the MXS-R “Skyracer,” the highperformance plane on the Breitling Racing Team flown by aerobatics rising star Mika Brageot in the Red Bull Air Race World Championship.

Like many other Breitling models from recent years, this new Colt Skyracer sports a military-inspired and all-black “stealth” look. With a thermocompensated SuperQuartzTM movement fitted inside, the watch is ten times more accurate Case size: 45mm than standard Case material: Breitlight quartz models.

Dial: Volcano Black strap: ruBBer Skyracer Completing the movemeNt: Breitling caliBer 74, thermocompenSated looks is a 45mm SuperQuartz Water resistaNCe: 100m case in Breitlight.

essentials 360

MetropolItAN DesIgN

37

Hamilton Broadway Quartz

through eye-catching details and contrasting colors, a new expression of elegance is on the rise. launched last year, Broadway is a new segment in hamilton’s creations that offers a reinterpretation of elegance through small details and sleek designs. For 2017, the Broadway includes a range of attentiongrabbing dials combined with a range of leather or textile straps—from sleek cognac leather to a neat olive herringbone pattern.

Fitted in a 40mm case of stainless steel that comes with an Case size: 40mm anthracite gray inner Case material: StainleSS Steel, anthracite gray inner ring ring, this new Broadway Dial: White, Blue With yelloW suggests a new central line, gray With BroWn central line expression of elegance, strap: gray nuBuck, BroWn one made of sharp patina leather, oliVe herringBone textile style, smart details and movemeNt: eta Quartz a personal touch.

Water resistaNCe: 50m

incredibly accurate Longines Conquest V.H.P.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Known for the elegance of its timepieces, Longines has a long history with quartz that is full of technical innovation and feats. With the Conquest V.H.P. (Very High Precision), Longines is revisiting a success story from the ’80s. As an extension of this historic milestone, the new Conquest V.H.P. is equipped with a movement developed exclusively for Longines by the ETA manufacturing company.

The watch is available in either the 3 hands/calendar or chronograph configurations, and comes with a dial in blue, carbon, silvered Case size: 41, 42, 43, 44mm or black. With its high technicality Case material: StainleSS Steel Dial: Blue, carBon, SilVered and dynamic aesthetics, the Conquest or Black strap: Steel V.H.P has positioned itself as the movemeNt: eta Quartz Water resistaNCe: 50m standard-bearer of extreme precision.

WatCh 101

Case shape 2 these are six out of the maNy WatChCase shapes oN the market:

rouND

square

reCtaNGular

oval

toNNeau

asymmetriCal

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intricate design

Fiona Krüger Petit Skull Celebration Enigma Fiona Krüger started her brand in 2013 with a skull-shaped watch called the Petit skull celebration, which has since become her signature theme. inspired by dia de Los Muertos—a Mexican festival honoring the dead—Krüger instils each of her watches with its own distinct character using the technique of hand-painting with lacquer. as for the latest addition to this lineup, dubbed the enigma, the symbolic outline of the skull is decorated with superLuminova and is punctuated by luminous dots to mark the hours. through Case size: 48 x 34.5mm the eyes, the moving balance Case material: StainleSS Steel 316n wheel and delicate mainspring Dial: braSS of the movement can be seen, strap: leather movement: Skeletonized which, when wound up, bring automatic the watch to life.

Water resistanCe: 30m

viva la vida!

HYT Skull Vida

DAMAncaliber | 2017

As the only hydro-mechanical watchmaker in the world, HYT’s lab of geniuses continues its quest for the absolute hybrid development with the Skull Vida.

Limited to only five unique pieces, the watch’s dial is shaped like a skull and is crafted from the ivory of Siberian mammoth that lived many millennia ago. Each dial is completely unique and offers different textures, variations and designs, as each watch is designed to highlight the Case size: 51mm properties of the mammoth’s ivory Case material: black dlc titanium as much as possible. Combining life Dial: handmade engraved Skull made from mammoth and the unique flow of time with ivory their fluid technology and a dial strap: beige embroidered fabric made from a unique material, this movement: excluSive hyt caliber, manual new watch is proof that HYT is poWer reserve: 65 hourS Water resistanCe: 50m going even further than before.

WatCh 101

WatChCase treatments there are treatments that Can elevate the value of WatChCases:

Plating Gold plating is one of the most common treatments. It renders that gold-looking gleam to any metal, although it easily wears off due to daily use and rubbing.

PVD Physical vapor deposition is applied by spraying in a heated vacuum. Besides being corrosion resistant, it can also imbue golden or dark metal hues.

DlC Diamond-like carbon is a coating applied by blasting carbon on a metal surface. It’s more scratch-resistant and expensive compared to the other options here.

aR Coating Anti-reflective coating is only used for the watch’s sapphire crystal. It reduces glare and reflection, since sapphire crystal is more reflective than glass.

WatCh 101

8

Skull on the dial Forget about smartwatches and say hello to the hottest theme For timepieces oF 2017

the unconventional one

Bomberg Bolt-68 Automatic Skull Rider “Hellgold”

As a truly innovative and unconventional brand, Bomberg has successfully emerged into the watch and jewelry industry thanks to its unique and exciting pieces. For 2017, Bomberg released the Bolt-68 Automatic Skull Rider Hellgold—featuring a combination of soft gold hues combined with dark black—as an interpretation of the devil/angel duality. Equipped with silicon straps and nails, this revolutionary watch makes a bold statement and fits nicely with the brand’s DNA—as well as its dedication to the freedom felt in the “biker world.” This watch stands out not only with its Case size: 47mm Case material: black Pvd design and materials, but also Dial: black with flying tourbillon and retrogade with its futuristic craftsmanship hourS strap: black leather with and surprising suitability for any black Silicone life occasion. movement: eta2671, automatic

FataLLy attractive Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 StingHD

Five years after unveiling the X-treM-1 timepiece, christophe claret joins forces with stingHd to launch a daring mechanical “memento mori.” equipped with a skull on the tourbillon carriage and either stingray leather or a personalized strap, this new X-treM-1 stingHd asserts anticonformism as a deliberate lifestyle choice. technical strength remains a key asset of this watch, which combines an Case size: 40.8 x 56.8mm inclined flying tourbillon Case material: material with a retrograde hours black Pvd-treated grade 5 titanium and minutes display Dial: black with flying system based on magnetic tourbillon and retrogade hourS fields. still, its aesthetics has strap: black Stingray evolved with a sapphire crystal leather movement: fly11, manual that reveals a skull motif when poWer reserve: 50 hourS breathed upon.

Water resistanCe: 30m

Dial Cover there are three basiC Dial Cover types useD for a WristWatCh: • synthetiC sapphire Possessing the same chemical composition as natural sapphire, this is the most expensive and hardest type, and widely used in Swiss watches.

• mineral Mineral crystals are simply made of glass.

Inexpensive but relatively easy to break. This

• plexiglass This is the most affordable kind but not as resistant to scratches.

This material is also known as acrylite, and is technically considered a type of plastic.

two basiC shaPes:

• flat While this shape is the most widely used in the market, flat crystals are susceptible to shattering or cracking. If used underwater, the flat shape might become reflective when seen at certain angles or if no coating is applied on the crystal.

• DomeD A domed shape distributes any force applied to it evenly around the crystal and is therefore more resistant to shattering and cracking. However, the higher the curvature, the higher the risk of damage and abrasion.

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tag heuer

Fit for an Agent

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Live out your own thriLLing adventures with the tag heuer ConneCted ModuLar 45 KingsMan speCiaL edition

sCreen The screen is covered by a 2.5mm scratchresistant sapphire cover glass. Add to that the case made of grade 5 titanium, and you have a watch that will survive just about anything

strap The brown leather strap (as well as the orange velvet alternative) oozes classical elegance that contrasts nicely with the hitech module

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KingsMan Logo The movie’s iconic logo will be displayed on the dial at 10:10, which is also a subtle nod to the traditional way of displaying watches.

ModuLar systeM

speciFicAtions Case MateriaL TiTanium proCessor inTel aTom Processor Z34XX water resistanCe 50 m c Ase

strA p

power reserve

45 MM

leAther or velvet

25 hours

Watches have always been an essential part of any fictional spy’s arsenal of gadgets, and for this year’s “Kingsman: The Golden Circle,” the timepiece of choice— as made by director Matthew Vaughn himself—is the TAG Heuer Connected.

As part of this avantgarde collaboration, the Swiss watch brand has also released a very special timepiece: the TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45 Kingsman Special Edition.

The Kingsman connection is clearly visible. By default, the TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45 Kingsman Special Edition comes with pink gold lugs and

an elegant leather strap featuring the iconic Kingsman print. The latter can be replaced by an orange velvet strap, which is designed after the smoking jacket worn by Taron Egerton’s character, Gary “Eggsy” Unwin.

Further separating the Kingsman Special Edition from the core TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45 collection are the dial functions.

For one, the dial comes in either midnight blue or gray, and bears the Kingsman inscription and logo at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock. When the clock strikes 10:10, the dial will vibrate for 10 seconds and show the movie’s iconic K logo. Finally,

the original Android Wear lighting function has been modified to show the movie’s logo in gold against a white background.

In “Kingsman: The Golden Circle,” the watch proves decisive in the Kingsman agents’ success—in no small part to its hardiness.

This, in turn, is a quality that any modern gent leading an active life will certainly appreciate.

And make no mistake, this is a genuine luxury watch, fully designed and manufactured in Switzerland. In short, this is nothing short of a modern, hi-tech watch made for men who appreciate utility as well as the finer things in life.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

The lugs and strap of the watch can easily be removed for quick replacement with a simple press of a button on the back.

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omega

The Holy Trilogy

DAMAncaliber | 2017

either individually or as a trio, omega’s 1957 trilogy limited edition is a collector’s dream come true

bezel

strap

Like the original Broad Arrow, this Speedmaster features a tachymeter scale on the bezel with a font that was redrawn to match the scale of the original model

Several spare straps are made available for buyers of the limited edition presentation box. These include leather straps as well as NATO ones

Omega 1957 TrilOgy limiTed ediTiOns Without doubt, one of the most delightful surprises from Baselworld 2017 was Omega’s trilogy, which consists of 60th anniversary editions of the Seamaster 300, Railmaster and Speedmaster. All three debuted in 1957, and the 2017 releases were based on cross-sections and exact dimensions

derived from the original models. While the watches have, of course, been brought up to modern standards, they are still true to the spirit of 1957—even the Omega logo on them is taken from the era.

While all three watches are available separately (with each limited to 3,557 pieces worldwide), they are

also available as a set complete with a presentation box inspired by the original packing used back in 1957. Most notably, the box features the 1957 Seahorse on the lid and also contains spare straps. Alas, only 557 of these boxes are made available, so the hunt for this “holy trilogy” will be a fierce one.

speedmasTer 60TH anniversary limiTed ediTiOn specificaTiOns case material dial movement water resistance

StainleSS Steel Black caliBre 1861, manual 60m

ca s e

s Tr a p

pO wer reserve

38.6 mm

sTainless sTeel

48 HOurs

railmasTer 60TH anniversary limiTed ediTiOn masTer cHrOnOmeTer

specificaTiOns case material dial movement water resistance

StainleSS Steel Black caliBre 8806, automatic 60 m

ca s e

s Tr a p

pO wer reserve

38 mm

sTainless sTeel

55 HOurs

index

movement

seamasTer 300 - 60TH anniversary limiTed ediTiOn masTer cHrOnOmeTer

bezel The bi-directional bezel is made using aluminum, which is hardier than acrylic as used on the original Seamaster 300 from 1957

crown

specificaTiOns StainleSS Steel Black caliBre 8806, automatic 55 hourS

c ase

s Tr a p

w a Te r r e s i s T a n c e

39 mm

sTainless sTeel

300 m

Just like the original model from 1957, the new Seamaster 300 features the NaĂŻad sign on the crown.

Back in the day, it was a mark of exceptional water resistance

DAMAncaliber | 2017

The vintage style indexes on this 2017 model have been deepened to allow for a stronger light from the SuperLuminova filling. Perfect for nighttime adventures

Omega’s Calibre 8806 is a Master Chronometercertified movement.

So, it will basically still work perfectly even after going near an operational MRI machine

case material dial movement power reserve

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Longines

his and hers the perfeCt offering from longines for pairs with a penChant for Coordinating their looks

DAMAncaliber | 2017

longines masTer collecTion sunray Blue (men version) The aptly named Master Collection was initially launched by Longines back in 2005.

Since its debut, the collection became the perfect illustration of the brand’s heritage in classical watchmaking, but in a decidedly contemporary manner.

This year, two new editions are introduced to the market: One with a gray dial and another, pictured here, in blue.

Powering this watch is the self-winding Calibre L888.2 mechanical movement, with 64 hours of power reserve. Naturally, the scintillating motion of the caliber can be observed through the transparent caseback.

Finally, the watch is completed with a steel bracelet or a leather strap in either blue or gray to match the dial of your choice.

movement

specificaTions Case material stainless steel movement Calibre l888.2, automatiC water resistanCe 30 m c ase

po w e r r e s e r v e

s Tr a p

42, 40, 38.50mm

64 hours

alligaTor or sTainless sTeel

The transparent caseback affords an impressive view of the Calibre L888.2 movement (Calibre L592.2 for the ladies’ variant) ticking inside the steel case

Case The watch comes in several sizes, namely 42, 40 and 38.5mm—all the better to accommodate different wearers with different wrists and tastes

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STRAP The blue alligator strap that perfectly matches the sunray blue dial can be replaced with a stainless steel bracelet

DIAL

LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION SUNRAY BLUE (LADIES VERSION) During the Baselworld fair held earlier this year, Longines CEO Walter von Känel offered an interesting observation on how people pick watches. “Out of the 12 in this page,” he said while pointing at a list of his company’s

top sellers from 2016, “seven pieces are ladies’ watches.” Then von Känel added: “Because we have a lot of pair watches.”

Unsurprisingly, the newest iteration of Longines’ Master Collection also include options for women.

The ladies variant of this particular watch is slimmer and features a more slender silhouette Aesthetically speaking, however, the watch is similar to the version for men. This makes the duo a perfect choice for couples who enjoy coordinated looks.

DAMANCALIBER | 2017

The blue sunray dial provides the perfect “canvas” for the subtle, rhodium-plated hands, and (in this case) the diamond indexes, which further enhances the watch’s understated feel

SPECIFICATIONS CASE MATERIAL STAINLESS STEEL MOVEMENT CALIBRE L592.2 WATER RESISTANCE 30 M CA S E

P OW ER R ES ERVE

STRAP

29, 25.5 MM

40 HOURS

ALLIGATOR OR STAINLESS STEEL

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rado

46

adventurous aesthetics

crown Interestingly— and perhaps unsurprisingly—the watch’s crown uses the same polished plasma high-tech ceramic material that is used for the case

Known for Its mastErY of cuttIng EdgE matErIaLs, rado Is aLso sEEn boLstErIng Its cLassIc and vIntagEInspIrEd LInEs

strap The light-brown leather strap nicely complements the dial. A black leather strap is used for the blue version of this watch

DAMAncaliber | 2017

sappHIrE crYstaL Besides being scratch resistant, the DiaMaster Grande Seconde’s sapphire crystal also comes with an anti-reflective coating

specifications casE matErIaL dIaL movEmEnt watEr rEsIstancE

Plasma high-tech ceramic gray/Brown or Blue 11 ½ eta 2899, automatic 100m

c ase

s t Ra p

poweR ReseRve

43 MM

leatheR

42 houRs

Rado diaMasteR GRande seconde One of Rado’s most distinctive collections has always been the DiaMaster Grande Seconde family with its alluring asymmetric dial and stacked subdials. The left sub-dial shows the seconds and seems to be placed on top of the right subdial which displays the

hours and minutes. The newest incarnation of the DiaMaster Grande Seconde features roman numerals, a sunray pattern on the dial and a leather strap in a matching hue.

As befitting of a Rado watch, the DiaMaster Grande Seconde is crafted using plasma

high-tech ceramic, which gives it a nice metallic shine—without any actual metal in the case.

Moreover, this material is also completely hypoallergenic, noticeably lighter than steel and also scratchresistant, making it easy on the eye and also easy to wear.

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casE Constructed using hardened grade 5 titanium, the HyperChrome 1616 is extremely strong while still being light

strap

DAMAncaliber | 2017

The thick, textured leather strap adds yet another masculine touch and is also necessary considering the huge case

Rado hypeRchRoMe 1616 While it’s best known for advances in high-tech materials, Rado also has a healthy appreciation for vintage aesthetics. The new Rado HyperChrome 1616 is a perfect example. There’s a distinct ’60s vibe to the watch what with the boxy 46mm case (inspired by the oversized aesthetics

popular during the decade), the vibrant hue of the dial and the thick vintage leather strap. In fact, the HyperChrome 1616 is a reinterpretation of the brand’s Cape Horn collection, which was launched, obviously, in the late ’60s.

Speaking of which, 1616 is actually a reference to the

year Cape Horn was discovered. This spirit of adventure and discovery lives on in the HyperChrome 1616, which boasts exceptionally rugged construction and superb water resistance. All in all, this is the perfect watch for adventurers who want to step off into the great outdoors—and to look good while doing it.

specifications casE matErIaL dIaL movEmEnt LImItEd EdItIon ca s e

46 mm

titanium Blue 11 ½ eta c07.621, automatic 1,616 Pieces

p ow eR R es eRv e

80 hours

w a t eR Resistance

100 M

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corum

A View From the Bridge

DAMAncaliber | 2017

corum comes back with new interpretations of the GolDen briDGe anD the bubble watches

Dial

case

With the exploded iris print as the watch’s centerpiece, the hands are replaced with circles: A large one for the hours and another for the minutes.

The Big Bubble now measures 52mm across. Add to that the convex sapphire crystal on the front, and it becomes clear that this watch is meant for strong wrists.

Big BuBBle AnimA Corum initiated another big push with the relaunched Bubble collection by inviting a number of creative minds to submit their interpretations of the design. The brand also released the Big Bubble, which sports the same case design at 52mm—compared to the original’s 47mm.

The timepiece pictured on this page is the work of Italian DJ and composer Matteo Ceccarini—whose music is often heard on fashion runways. Of this 3D watch, Ceccarini explained: “Anima means ‘soul’ and it is said that the eyes are the mirror of the soul.”

Limited to 88 pieces,

all of the Big Bubble Anima watches come in titanium, except for the last unit numbered 88 that features a titanium case with a gold bezel and crown. Of course, there are plenty of other Bubble creations unveiled this year by Corum; each with its own variation of material, imagery and creativity.

speciFicAtions case material movement water resistance limiteD eDition

TiTanium CO 390, auTOmaTiC 100 m 88 pieCes

cAse

t h ick nes s

power reserV e

52 mm

20.20 mm

65 hours

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Dial The skeletonized dial features two beautiful 18K rose gold structures modeled after the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

strap A sleek brown alligator leather strap matches the 18K rose gold case and buckle, too.

movement

DAMAncaliber | 2017

The in-house movement is uniquely powered by two parallel linear weights.

So, instead of a spinning rotor, the winding process happens due to a weight moving from side to side.

golden Bridge streAm After its first prototype was released back in 1977, the Golden Bridge watch from Corum has finally broken out from its eye-catching tonneau shape in recent years.

At this year’s Baselworld fair, the Swiss brand released a rectangular case design called “Stream.” The tube-like form (although less

convex than it should be) really stands out.

It also brings attention to the structures on the side of the vertical movement. All in all, there’s a stronger masculine feel to the watch compared to the previous tonneau model.

A number of other design elements seem to back this up: As if to highlight the hands

against the 18K rose gold case, the Golden Bridge Stream has the hour and minute batonshaped indicators coated in rhodium. Last but not least, the crown engraved with the key logo is placed at 6 o’clock, a signature of this iconic timepiece. This is definitely, a golden watch that deserves gold for great design.

speciFicAtions case material movement power reserve water resistance

18K rOse gOld CO 313, auTOmaTiC 40 hOurs 30 m

cA s e

s t r Ap

thickness

31 x 52.50 mm

alligaTOr

14.70mm

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hublot

Mad Collab

strap Unlike last year’s offering, this year’s black and King Gold models use Berluti’s signature Scritto leather pattern on the dial to the strap.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

these hublot novelties stand as this year’s finest marriages between two seemingly distant worlds

chronograph When’s the last time you saw a chronograph with a leather dial? Well, this might likely be your first.

ClassiC Fusion Chronograph Berluti After last year’s successful launch of the first ever Berluti leather dial on a watch, Hublot pushed further with two dashing novelties: Berluti leather on chronographs. The timepieces, by the way, feature Berluti’s signature Scritto patterns and engravings of Latin words.

Coming in black and brown, the leather has been wonderfully adjusted to fit into a chronograph dial.

Speaking of which, the dial has been made rather simple with a 30-minute counter at 9 and the chronograph seconds at 3 o’clock.

The 45mm case, meanwhile, feels just

right on the wrist. It’s definitely a suave accessory for the dapper gentlemen.

Also notable is that these limited edition timepieces comes with a Berluti box set complete with additional shoe care products from the 122-year-old Parisian shoemaker. Truly oneof-a-kind collaboration.

speCiFiCations case material movement limited edition power reserve

BlaCk CeraMiC or 18k king gold HUB1143, aUtoMatiC 250 pieCes eaCH 42 HoUrs

Case

d ia l & s t r a p

thiCkness

45 MM

Berluti leather

13.40 MM

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strap The two red pushers on the side are not just for decoration, but can be used to quickly change the straps.

chronograph

The one-button chronograph can be activated using the red long pusher at 3 o’clock. This is a unique invention

by Ferrari.

case This skeletonized titanium construction has been designed following ergonomic principles. Note how the crown has been moved to 4 o’clock.

To celebrate Ferrari’s 70th anniversary, the Italian sports car manufacture took the steering wheel in the creation of a completely new watch line under Hublot. The design is remarkably different from what we saw on the previous collaboration between the two—and also why the Ferrari logo at 9 o’clock appears bigger than the Hublot’s at 5.

Flavio Manzoni, head of design at the Ferrari Design Center, led the

design effort and started from the most basic element: the engine or, in this case, the watch movement. The dial, which is partially skeletonized, showcases a fast rotating tourbillon at 7 o’clock and the chronograph seconds and minute counters at 3 and 11 o’clock, respectively. For the design of the case, Manzoni followed a concept used in actual Ferrari cars: lightest yet strongest. To that end he used titanium and

the unique PEEK carbon (Polyether Ether Ketone) polymer.

As you turn the watch around, there’s a clear inscription on the sapphire case-back that this timepiece was made to honor the Prancing Horse’s 70 years. That case-back, by the way, is equally sumptuous, featuring a baseplate that looks a bit like an hourglass. It’s clear to say, if you do drive a Ferrari, then you simply must have one of these on your wrist.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

teChFraMe Ferrari 70 Years tourBillon Chronograph

speCiFiCations case material thickness movement limited edition

titaniUM, peek CarBon or king gold 14.80 MM HUB6311, ManUal 70 pieCes eaCH

Ca s e

strap

p ower reserve

45 MM

ruBBer

115 hours (5 daYs)

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zenith

Chronicles of the Chrono Master

dial The copper-colored dial is brushed to exude a rugged exterior look.

The chronograph counters feature brown rings, while a date display docks at 6 o’clock.

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Zenith bites back with badasslooking chronographs, including the new el primero

ChronoMaster el PriMero range rover velar Zenith is going for quite a ride this year.

After a reshuffle at the company’s top spot, it has been given a much-needed push

by Jean-Claude Biver, head of watchmaking at LVMH, to present an exciting new offering. This tribute timepiece to British car manufacturer Land Rover is among those interesting novelties.

The two brands, as

it happens, have one thing in common: 1969 was a momentous year for both. That year saw the launch of the iconic Range Rover four-wheeler as well as the awardwinning El Primero. The significance of these two milestones are present in this manlylooking chronograph.

The Chronomaster El Primero Range Rover Velar largely takes

after the car’s design principles, which can be seen in the lightness of the watch (thanks to well-chosen materials for the case), beautiful dial and firm strap. The hour markers, by the way, are plated with rhodium and further coated with SuperLumiNova—they still look sleek under the light. All in all, this chronograph is as solid as a real Range Rover.

strap The spirit of the United Kingdom, where the Range Rover comes from, is replicated in the Union Jack-inspired strap featuring perforated calfskin on rubber.

sPeCifiCations case material movement power reserve water resistance

Aluminum CerAmiC el Primero 400 B, AutomAtiC 50 hours 100 m

Ca s e

s t raP

thiCkness

42mm

rubber with Calfskin

12.75MM

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power reserve The power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock is only for the chronograph.

The watch and the chronograph complication each have individual power reserves.

The chronograph (50) minute counter is at 3 o’clock, while the chronograph (60) seconds counter is at 6 o’clock.

crown 25 turns of the crown is enough to power the chronograph to full capacity. The same crown can be used for winding and time setting, too.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

chronograph

Defy el PriMero 21 sPeCifiCations case material movement power reserve water resistance

titAnium or CerAmiCized Aluminum el Primero 9004, AutomAtiC 50 hours 100 m

C ase

straP

thiCkness

44mm

alligator on rubber

14.50 MM

Zenith has, from the very beginning, been a dedicated movement manufacturer. After making a name for itself through the awardwinning El Primero movement in recent decades, the brand is ready to open up a whole new chapter through yet another innovation. While the chronograph in the regular El Primero is able to record time down to a tenth

of a second, the El Primero 21 easily does hundredths of a second.

In order to do that, the movement was designed to have the chronograph complication function separately from the basic watch movement.

On the skeletonized dial version, you can observe the complicacy of this “engine.”

There’s so much to admire, too: From the constantly pivoting

seconds (the threelegged star) at 9 o’clock to the chronograph mechanism itself.

Now, this kind of movement isn’t actually new. But what does make it special is the simple fact that Zenith has prepared this particular movement for mass production.

It’s pretty feasible that future chronographs will have the same capabilities, all thanks to Zenith.

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Black is Back bell & ross’ new range of novelties create an appealing selection for younger collectors

bracelet

DAMAncaliber | 2017

The new stainless steel bracelet has a satin-polished finish that looks sleek on the wrist.

chronograph The black-andwhite chronograph uses the central long hand for the seconds and the 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock.

BR V2-94 Black Steel SpecificationS case material movement power reserve water resistance

StainleSS Steel BR-Cal.301, automatiC 42 houRS 100 m

c aSe

BRacelet

chRonogRaph

41 mm

StainleSS Steel oR leatheR

30 minuteS

If you think that Bell & Ross is all about square timepieces, think again. The brand’s Vintage collection, for one, has been championing the classic round case from the very beginning. This new reinterpretation of the simple black dial arrives with a

beautiful chronograph complemented by classic-shaped pushers, which can be locked by rotating the rings. The crown is also secured to avoid accidental twisting.

More importantly, this collection represents aviation as part of the brand’s DNA. This year, Bell & Ross has publicly

announced a new campaign titled “Watch Beyond,” portraying heroes wearing helmets, goggles or diving masks. There are now dive and racing timekeeping instruments on top of the pilot-ready timepieces. Land, sea and air; you name it, Bell & Ross has it.

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beZel To mark dive times, you can rotate the anodized aluminum bezel counterclockwise.

Dial Below the 2.85mmthick sapphire crystal is a black dial with hour markers coated with SuperLumiNova. There’s also a date display at 4.30.

Complying with the basic codes of a dive watch, the crown is covered with a rubber insert for a firm grip and is secured with a locking system.

BR 03-92 DiVeR automatic This dive watch is definitively a collector’s item. The hour markers coated with SuperLumiNova on a black/ dark-colored dial certainly makes for an appealing look on the wrist. But, truth be told, a proper Swiss dive watch has to comply with the rules regulated under the ISO 6425 standard. Among those

is a powerful watchcase that can withstand water pressures up to 100 meters below the surface, dial indexes that must be legible from 25cm in complete darkness and so on.

Of course, Bell & Ross has 20 years of experience in crafting dive watches. So, it goes without saying that the BR 03-92

Diver Automatic ticks all the checkboxes on the ISO 6425 form. It is water-resistant up to 300 meters—the caseback alone is 2.80mm thick; the SuperLumiNova coating glows brightly even in pitch dark; and, last but not least, two strap options: a woven rubber one or a Velcro strap to be worn over a diving suit.

SpecificationS case material Dial movement power reserve

StainleSS Steel BlaCk BR-Cal.302, automatiC 38 houRS

ca S e

S t Ra p

wateR ReS iStance

42 mm

RuBBeR oR faBRic

300 m

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TIME on ThE road hublot Big Bang Ferrari in 45mm 18K King gold case and rubber strap Outfit by Lanvin

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Some of the moSt intriguing noveltieS of the year come from the collaboration of Storied watch manufacturerS and top tier automotive brandS

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tag heuer Monaco Calibre 12 in 39mm steel case and leather strap Outfit by Lanvin

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Breitling Bentley Flying B No. 3 in 51.40mm steel case and steel bracelet

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Zenith el Primero range rover in 42mm ceramic case and leather strap Outfit by ermenegildo zegna

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BrM Martini racing in 44mm steel case and leather strap

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Outfit by Burberry

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Chopard Mille Miglia gtS in 43mm steel case and rubber strap Outfit by ermenegildo zegna

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Shelby Cobra in 44mm steel and titanium case with leather strap Outfit by Burberry

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Styling assistant primawan Hakim grooming arimbi Model Sorin/tayu Models

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Cartier Nails It Again

The iconic fashion sTaTemenT from carTier, The JusTe un clou collecTion, makes a sTrong comeback

Here’s the thing about Cartier: With a legacy that stretches back to 1847, Cartier looks beyond the fleeting fashions of the day, forging a style out of its extraordinary history, travels and encounters with exceptional personalities. One such extraordinary bit of history lies in the Juste un Clou collection, with pieces that magnify the precious qualities of everyday objects in a sublime take on the ordinary.

As fans of the brand probably know already, the name of the Juste un Clou collection is French for “just a nail.”

The first nail bracelet was created

by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier New York in the 1970s. His radical approach of reimagining a utilitarian object as jewelry echoed with the anti-conformist state of mind prevalent in the era.

Unsurprisingly, the Juste un Clou became one of the icons of the 1970s.

Fast forward to 2012, as Cartier commemorated its 165th anniversary, the French maison opened an exhibit at the Cartier Maison titled “Cartier & Aldo Cipullo, New York City in the ’70s”.

The main point of the exhibition was

Cipullo’s work, set against a backdrop of the Big Apple in the 1970s. At that time, Cartier also released a collection centered on the Juste un Clou bracelet.

Today, in 2017, Cartier has expanded the collection to include a torque necklace, earrings and cufflinks.

The most recent iterations are available in white gold, rose gold and also the more traditional yellow gold. Some designs are further enhanced with pavé diamonds across the entire piece, as well. In addition to that, the bracelet line has been updated to include thicker designs. Like the original, the new Juste un Clou collection shaped like elegantly bent nails, but completed with a modern twist.

One thing for sure, the beauty of the Juste un Clou ultimately lies in its wearability. You can wear it with almost anything, dressed up or down as you please, and also has that modern timelessness—even compared to other designs from the maison. With this iconic fashion statement, you have a solid accessory to help you stand out no matter what you’re wearing.

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Column 68 Bridging Generations Joezer Mandagi chats with oMega ceo raynald aeschliMann about the attaining new standards and reaching new generations

86 Change is About to Come after the recent acquisition of frederique constant by the citizen group, peter stas reveals how things are now Moving at the swiss watch brand

110 Rifts and Shifts changes at the 2017 baselworld fair hinted at bigger, iMMinent shifts in the years to coMe

122 Days of the Year an in-depth look at the one horological coMplication we use the Most and its extended faMily

assembly of the heuer 02 movement

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Bridging Generations Joezer Mandagi chats with oMega ceo raynald aeschliMann about the attaining new standards and reaching new generations

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DAMAncaliber | 2017

ack in mid-2016, Omega saw a major shift in its top management as Stephen Urquhart stepped down as CEO and president. It goes without saying that he left some very big shoes to fill. But it also goes without saying that Raynald Aeschlimann, the new top guy at Omega, is more than up to the challenge. For one, he seems to embrace Generation Y’s fixation with social media, as seen in the success of the Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday” Limited Edition which was made available exclusively through Instagram.

At the same time, Omega pushes ever forward with the new Master Chronometer standard while still holding firm to its history and lineage. It is, indeed, an exciting time to be an Omega fan.

Raynald Aeschlimann Opposite page The Seamaster Aqua Terra

DA MAN: What are the highlights from Baselworld 2017 which will really represent Omega through the year?

Raynald Aeschlimann: It’s not the first time I’ve been asked this question here, but I always say the same thing. This is one of those years where you show the richness of Omega. It’s like having kids. As the CEO, I have four families and they’re doing very good. So, it’s difficult to talk good about one. But two things are definitely very important, and that goes back to the

DNA of the brand. I start with the trilogy [The 1957 Trilogy Limited Edition]. Everybody talks about the trilogy. You start with three watches and then you do this whole evolution of these three key watches. But more importantly—and I think it’s a highlight for a lot of people—I want to insist on this one: 60 years of Speedmaster. There’s no luxury in today’s world without roots, without tradition, without history. If you have a bad history, and you try to make one, it wouldn’t be credible.

So, I’m very much insisting on the credibility and the history of Speedmaster—a watch that made history on the moon while still featuring the same shape. So, that’s one of the highlights.

The other highlight is obviously the Aqua Terra line, where we’re coming very strongly with the Seamaster.

Talking about this is talking about the technology: the Master Chronometer. That’s also something to celebrate.

So, that’s why it’s difficult to talk about one highlight. But these are my highlights.

DA: Speedmaster seems to be the real “hero” of 2017, so to speak. Especially with the success of, say, Speedy Tuesday...

RA: We reached to this connected community with a Speedmaster. Everybody asked me about connected watches and now I have the answer. I’m going to tell

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them: We have the best answer for the connected people, but not with a connected watch. It’s very nice.

Speedy Tuesday was a big success—even in Indonesia, by the way. I’m not from the young generation, but I’m very much influenced by the new generation. I’m also on Instagram, I also read my news in the morning on my phone, I also get a lot of info from Instagram in the morning about what’s happening in the world. For them—for the #SpeedyTuesday community—we have a watch that was an answer. It respected and celebrated the history of the watch in a retro vintage style. So, the whole concept was right. It celebrates the past but with the means of the future.

DA: Is this an approach that you will employ again in the future?

RA: I think we made history; so, obviously we will talk again to all these consumers through many more projects. But I want to emphasize the fact that it was the perfect project: It was the right product, for the right time, for the right people. I don’t want Speedy Tuesday’s success to suddenly become a platform for only commercial activity. If it’s only commercial, it has no emotion. And Speedy Tuesday was very much an emotional watch.

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“I’m not from the young generation, but I’m very much influenced by the new generation. I’m also on Instagram” DA: There has been a lot of talk about new regulations concerning the “Made in Swiss” label. How will this affect Omega?

RA: I’m very much in favor of this. There are two reasons. First of all, I think it’s one of those things that has so much value. It’s one of those phrases that means a lot to people. I’ve been traveling all around the world and whenever I say “Swiss-made” people say “watches” and their eyes are smiling. So, it’s our duty to continue to do that. Because we’re giving you a watch that is 100-percent made in Switzerland, which continues this legacy of the past. And it makes it even more credible when you then ask for the price of those watches. I think that it’s very good.

DA: A lot of people are also talking about the Master Chronometer watches. Speaking of which, why did Omega set the bar so high for this certification?

RA: Because it’s Omega! [Laughs] But if you talk to our friends and all the people that we have been working with, they’ll say that at Omega, we do 361-degree projects. A circle is perfect, but there’s that one degree more that makes it an emotional thing. We like to do that. So, why so high? Because we believe only in

The Speedmaster Racing Opposite page Various stages of the Master Chronometer tests at the METAS lab

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high targets. We believe in vision. Without such a high target, we would not be what we are today. And I agree: [magnetic resistance up to] 15,000 gauss was a very big project. But, it would have not been an Omega project if this would have been 1,000 gauss.

DA: Is this, in a way, a challenge to the rest of the industry to raise their standards too?

RA: Yes and no. I think this is a challenge to the industry to become better, to get to the next generation.

The challenges we see at Omega—because we have the DNA for it—is always go the next level. People work on the past, we work on the future.

DA: Speaking of an entirely different kind of future, Omega is also working closely with the Good Planet Foundation. Can you tell us more about why this is important to the brand?

RA: Our involvement in some charities goes into clear and great projects. And Good Planet Foundation is one of these projects, because we go and we invest money in a project that is positive. Given the possibility to think

about the future, about a brighter future, I think that’s a good value.

DA: And then there’s also the Time for the Planet program in Indonesia...

RA: We are very much present in many countries of the world. The fact that we have an affiliate in Indonesia and having people working there means that we care about this region. That’s why we sometimes have projects far from here.

DA: Back to the business side of the brand, where does Omega stand today?

RA: In some markets we are number one, and the goal of Omega is to continue to grow. I see a lot of market potential; I see incredible products; I see incredible marketing communications; I see new countries; I see where we can build our relationships to the consumers in a much better way. And for me, the goal is to grow there, which would mean, obviously, to become bigger and bigger than we are today. And that’s the most important thing.

The 1957 Trilogy Limited Edition watches Opposite page Seamaster Planet Ocean Big Blue

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A Man of Taste G Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Opposite page The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph

reat companies often arise from a singular vision. Chopard, extraordinarily, has two. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his younger sister, Caroline, have presided over the family business for several decades now. He himself is the living epitome of elegance—from the manner in which he carries himself to his obsession with fine wines, classic cars and, of course, exquisite timepieces.

More importantly, the Scheufeles really know how to incorporate their wonderful lifestyle into the business: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has taken part in the Mille Miglia race since late 1980s, hence the unique creation of the Mille Miglia collection. He also used to run several wine shops in Switzerland, and that is why every Chopard party is always filled with the most impressive vintages. As the talk moved to watches, Scheufele isn’t shy in professing his affinity for sophisticated antiques and perfection in craftsmanship. Then again, he is the heart and soul of the brand’s L.U.C collections, one of the most elegant watch collections for modern men.

Despite unfavorable conditions for the retail market in recent years, Chopard’s manufacture in Fleurier has been able to produce some of the most enterprising pieces under Scheufele’s direction. The L.U.C Full

Strike watch featuring a minute repeater, released late last year, marked the manufacture’s 20th anniversary.

At Baselworld 2017, Chopard showcased a beautiful exhibition of the L.U.C XP Urushi collection that shines with Japanese lacquer on the dial. Scheufele talks about all that and much more with DAMAN during the festive fair in Switzerland.

DA MAN: This year marks the 90th anniversary of the Mille Miglia’s race. Will Chopard also commemorate this milestone?

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele: The Mille Miglia is already internationally known together with Chopard, so we’ll make some local events around the world for this momentous occasion.

DA: Since last year, the high-end L.U.C collection has incorporated a stainless steel case model. Will this be a permanent fixture?

KFS: We think that the stainless steel case will be a permanent fixture in the collection because we want to have some affordable models in it. Last year’s stainless steel piece was very successful and catering to young clients who were on the lookout for their first serious watch purchase.

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Karl-Friedrich ScheuFele, co-preSident oF chopard, talKS about producing Some oF the world’S moSt elegant timepieceS For men

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“We’re in a unique position of representing a family-owned brand in a world full of conglomerates” DA: Will Chopard add more entry-level pieces considering current market conditions?

KFS: We already have a very nice offering of L.U.C. watches in steel, from the Time Traveler model to the XP to the Perpetual Chrono. For the moment, there’s nothing to add. We’re quite well positioned, not to mention the Mille Miglia and other more affordable ranges we currently have. And what we have experienced so far is that we continue selling the complicated pieces as long as they are rare, exclusive and beautiful. Let’s not forget that Chopard does not produce 200,000 watches a year like some other companies. It’s not right to completely change your philosophy only because of a particular economic trend. We tend to be more consistent, and I believe the offering in stainless steel can already be an answer to the market.

DA: On the other hand, Chopard has pioneered the use of Fairmined gold in watchmaking and jewelry since last year. What’s the big picture?

KFS: Some clients really appreciate it and even ask for it. Other clients don’t buy a L.U.C watch because it uses Fairmined [gold], but because they like the aesthetics.

We’ve been doing it to attract attention to the issue [of fair trade in gold mining] and hope that our suppliers will catch on—and this is actually happening. Right now, organizing the supply for just ourselves is cumbersome and complicated. We have to keep the different types of gold separate, administratively and logistically. But we’ve been doing it because we believe that, in the long run, more clients will ask for it, and the professional suppliers will have to catch on.

DA: What about other brands? Will Chopard try to influence them to use Fairmined gold?

KFS: The only one who can influence the brands is the customers themselves. So, what we do is we try to inform the consumers about the possibility of buying sustainable Fairmined gold instead of other types of gold. I think the more people know about it, the more they will be asking from other brands, too. One of our major suppliers is considering the same service but on a bigger scale. If that happens, we will have completed a big part of our journey to sustainable luxury.

DA: Speaking of luxury, the exhibition of the L.U.C XP Urushi at Baselworld is really beautiful. How important is enameling to the Chopard manufacture?

KFS: Unfortunately, we don’t have an in-house enameling department at the manufacture yet. We are working on that. It really is the only craftsmanship that we don’t have at the moment. Talking about Urushi, it’s important to showcase this craftsmanship properly since we’ve been doing that for a while. Even for myself, when I see the collection, it reminds me of how much hard work poured into the creative production. It’s just amazing craftsmanship.

DA: Will there be a brand ambassador for the L.U.C collection this year?

KFS: We never believe in having permanent ambassadors for the men’s collection. We have some ambassadors for an event or two at Cannes, but it’s not an idea that we entertain all year round. Our men’s products should sell on their own. I don’t think that men

The L.U.C XP Urushi - Year of the Rooster Opposite page Creation and caseback of the limited series watch

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“We’ve been doing Fairmined gold to attract attention to the issue [of fair trade in gold mining]”

DA: How do you expand the brand to reach out to the online generation?

KFS: We have doubled, if not tripled, our efforts [to expand our] social media reach. We have e-commerce initiatives in the U.S. and now in the U.K. I think that it won’t be long before we spread that to Europe. It doesn’t replace a visit to the stores, mind you. In fact, it’s an addition to that because when you buy luxury goods, you want to touch and feel the products. Going to a boutique will continue to represent the main mode of purchase. The clients expect more of an experience.

We have to be more creative. This may involve a manufacture visit, wine tasting—there’s so many things you can think of and each is very much appreciated by the client. There’s not one day in a week that you don’t receive someone from somewhere around the world for a tour around the manufacture in Fleurier.

DA: Is there the slightest possibility of the brand venturing into digital watches?

KFS: I really don’t believe in digital watches. I don’t see their value as luxury goods; it’s simply electronics.

We cannot compare what we do to a smartwatch; it’s a different business altogether.

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are so much drawn to fashion and symbols like the ladies. If I understand the context, the craftsmanship, the background, the quality, how it’s made, I’d buy the product not because somebody else is wearing it.

DA: All in all, where is Chopard in the luxury industry right now?

KFS: We’re in a unique position of representing a family-owned brand in a world full of conglomerates. We also have a strong offering in both watches and jewelry, and I think this is a pretty good position to be in today.

We’re not under pressure to please the shareholders.

We can look after our own quality; we don’t need to double sales, etc. We can simply continue our course and try to stand among the best.

DA: How’s the manufacture going? Any hint of the new movement to be introduced soon aside from what’s shown at Baselworld?

KFS: We are always working on new movements. I can’t tell you what will come in two or three years’ time, because we would like this to remain a surprise. What I can tell you now is that we’re working on a ladies’ automatic movement, which will be introduced next year. It’s not for an L.U.C watch, and it’s going to be a strategic element for us.

Caseback of the Superfast Chrono Porsche Motorsport 919 Black Edition Opposite page The front of the same watch

To All The Corners of The Globe phoToGraphy Denny Tjan STyLING Primawan hakim

Jaeger Lecoultre Geophysic Universal Time in 42mm steel case and leather strap Outfit by Ben Sherman

By Showing what time it iS all aCroSS the worlD, watCheS with the worlD time CompliCation iS a gloBetrotter’S BeSt frienD

Vacheron Constantin overseas III Worldtime in 43mm steel case and bracelet strap Outfit by john Varvatos

omega Seamaster planet ocean Big Blue in 45.5mm ceramic case and rubber strap Outfit by Diesel

Frederique Constant Classic Manufacture Worldtimer in 42mm steel case tand leather strap Outfit by massimo Dutti

IWC pilot Worldtimer in 45mm steel case and leather strap Outfit by Calvin klein

Longines Master Collection Worldtimer in 42mm steel case and leather strap Outfit by massimo Dutti Grooming arimbi Model Leo/no. 1 models

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Change is About to Come DAMAncaliber | 2017

After the recent Acquisition of frederique constAnt by the citizen group, peter stAs reveAls how things Are now moving At the swiss wAtch brAnd

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iven the hiccup in retail in recent years, it’s no big surprise that a few Swiss watch brands finally succumbed to acquisition. Things, however, aren’t that simple for Frederique Constant.

Run by husband-wife duo Peter and Aletta Stas, the 29-year-old Swiss company has been recognized as a strong proponent of affordable luxury. It even offers some of the most affordable timepieces with in-house movements in the market.

That is also the reason why the recent acquisition of the brand by Japanese behemoth Citizen piqued everyone’s interest. The Frederique Constant group alone already comprises three distinct brands, namely Alpina (for Swiss sport watches), Frederique Constant (for affordable luxury timepieces) and Ateliers deMonaco (top-end watchmaker). Combining these forces with the variety of names under the Citizen group, including Arnold & Son and Bulova, appears to be a very impressive strategy to expand their portfolio.

Frederique Constant has, in the last couple of years, beefed up its offering of in-house movements, including this year’s launch of a flyback chronograph following a perpetual calendar the year before. There are also the connected timepieces. Unlike other brands that daringly

put the labels of their Silicon Valley partners, this aggressive Swiss watchmaker features nothing but their own trademark on their timepieces. That and other sharp strategic plays are what made Frederique Constant one of the hottest brands to watch at Baselworld.

DA MAN: Let’s start with the most obvious question. How did the acquisition play out?

Peter Stas: The Citizen group lets myself and the management team carry out our initial plans for five years. Of course, the obvious change is that every month we, the Frederique Constant group, have to report to Citizen. In addition to that, we started working with Citizen North America on the distribution of Frederique Constant watches in the U.S. We used to have a subsidiary with 17 people in the U.S., but they have a distribution and organization infrastructure of more than 500 people. So, you can imagine the power that the two of us have, and that’s the reason why we’re together.

DA: What’s the biggest lesson to learn from the Citizen Group?

PS: For sure, the distribution. For example, we [Frederique Constant] switched to the Citizen group’s organization for Japan and the U.S. starting last summer.

Peter Stas Opposite page Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture FC-760

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“We’re working on a new caliber for next year, and we’ll continue, if possible, to come up with a new mechanical innovation every year or two”

The Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Opposite page clockwise from top Inside the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar; the innovative e-strap; the brand’s mobile app

DA: How’s the market’s response toward all of these changes?

PS: We were quite concerned to see how the market would react. We have, from the beginning, clearly explained why we did it: Our two children, one is in Standford [University] in the U.S. and the other one who wants to go into the medical field, clearly told us they don’t want to go into the watch business. Then, when you’re approached to be acquired—we’re approached by two groups, later even another group also came along— if we say we want to keep it in the family, what’ll happen with the company?

Also, the company has already gone big with Hong Kong, German, Dutch, French subsidiaries and a Swiss company. You can’t simply hand over this company to someone who’s new anymore. It’s too dangerous. So, Citizen came, and they said that we want to have you do what you have done for five years. Other groups wanted

to be hands-on from the start. We felt very comfortable, and then we decided to go with them. Frankly speaking, I’m still very happy with the acquisition.

DA: What about your market shares in Japan?

How does Japan respond to mechanical watches considering Citizen is big on quartz timepieces?

PS: The Japanese also like mechanical watches. We’re selling more mechanical watches than quartz in Japan.

I think at least 70 percent is mechanical. So, for Swiss watches, it’s mainly mechanical; but, of course, for Citizen, it’s quartz watches.

DA: In the long run, will you produce more in-house movements despite the acquisition, considering it has been one of the highlights for Frederique Constant?

PS: No change. Now, we have the flyback chronograph.

We’re working on a new caliber for next year, and we’ll continue, if possible, to come up with a new mechanical innovation every year or two—if it’s not too complicated.

DA: How do you balance the creations of the traditional and the connected timepieces?

PS: Both are products of innovation. So, the in-house perpetual calendar we did last year for under €4,000— it’s never done before. Also, what we do represents a new way in creating new mechanical calibers. We tried to make the components so accurate that, when the watchmaker actually assembles the movement, it works

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Also, in certain technologies like solar energy, especially for the connected watches. Citizen is really good at very thin movements. What they produced last year is quite incredible. Their quartz technology is fantastic. But, on the other hand, we brought to the table a lot of Swiss mechanical know-how. Yes, Citizen already has La JouxPerret for Swiss movements, including for Arnold & Son, and we have already collaborated with them. The important point of this acquisition, however, is that the group has a multi-brand strategy, so every brand has a different price segment.

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“We’re not changing our DNA, to be ‘younger,’ so to speak. We’re Swiss a watchmaker for businessmen and businesswomen” perfectly from the very first time. They don’t need to do any manual adjustments. Then we come with the complication like the flyback chronograph.

Innovation is clearly there with the connected watches, too. We did the first one in 2015, and that was a men’s watch. Now, we’ve introduced the ladies’ watch and the e-strap. So, we have three digital platforms that elevate our offerings.

DA: Does this mean you will be more aggressive in the connected segment?

PS: Yes. It already represents 10 percent of the business turnover after only two years’ time. We used to have 30 percent in quartz, but now it’s only 25 percent in quartz and 10 percent in connected watches. So, it has really eaten up some part of the quartz segment.

DA: How is Ateliers deMonaco doing now?

PS: It’s still very small. They work with very few retailers.

In Singapore, there’s one point of sales. It’s a watch for someone who wants what nobody else has. So, it uses a one-on-one sales strategy for very expensive pieces, up to €200,000. And the brand is growing gradually.

We work with a few retailers, but then it’s typically with these retailers that organize private dinners. It’s more personal. It’s also bespoke, as well. Like very special dials, combination of materials, special diamond colors and so on.

DA: These days, there are more and more brands offering entry-level prices. How does this impact Frederique Constant’s bottom line?

PS: We have seen all these changes from others, with so many adjustments. We have had the strategy of accessible luxury for over 20 years. All that time, we slowly grew. Last year, the growth halted a little, now we’re back on course again. I don’t see that such change affects us; we just continue what we do best.

Everybody knows Frederique Constant is value for money. All the retailers know, and even the clients know about it. Meanwhile, other brands need to explain why last year they’re too expensive.

DA: Last but definitely not least, what is Frederique Constant doing to reach potential buyers from the younger generations? The millennials, if you will?

PS: In the digital space, we do more and more to reach the younger people. We’ve had one million fans on Facebook and we clearly see that we reach mostly 20-somethings versus the older market. Product-wise, we have the entry-level watches and, of course, the connected watches. So, we definitely have products for younger customers. I’m not really so sure that we really have a lot of young customers, though. It’s something we should investigate. But typically, our customers are around 30 years old.

So, we’re not changing our DNA, to be “younger,” so to speak. We’re first and foremost a Swiss watchmaker for businessmen and businesswomen. That’s typically our first market. As a matter of fact, our strongest market shares are in Europe at 38 percent. Asia is about 26 percent. Everybody wants to go to China, but the market changes quite rapidly.

The Flyback Chronograph with rose gold case Opposite page Stainless steel variant with Côtes de Genève decoration

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Patience, Passion, Perfection Laurent DorDet, the new Ceo of La Montre herMès, raps about the present anD the future of the parisian watChMaker

DA MAN: Before we talk about the ins-and-outs of this year, how was 2016?

Laurent Dordet: It’s a challenging year for the watch industry, although it was a good year for Hermès. In terms of sales in retail, we’re flat—which I don’t consider

as a huge success at all. But, at least it showed some resilience because 2016 was a difficult period. The retail business here mainly concerns with the trade at our own stores, all over the globe, which represents around 80 percent of the business. The rest is the trade made through selective networks of independent retailers, department stores in various countries. The latter, I must say, was much more challenging, because of the inventory issues. There was, basically, a discrepancy between offer and demand in most of our partners, but not of our stock, but the stock of big watch brands— we’re still a small player in the watch industry. So our partners had to deal with that.

DA: You’ve been in the watchmaking department a couple of years now. What do you think of it?

LD: Hermès is a maison of know-how; it’s a family passionate about know-how. So, we started with leather in the beginning, and only a hundred years and more later did we foray into silk production. We wanted to become a very legitimate house in silk, and that’s why we employ about 1,000 people in Lyon, France, focusing on textile production. The family is very passionate about watches, too, and from the history of the brand, you can see that we had a lot of partnerships with JaegerLeCoultre, Universal, etc. in the past.

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o one could deny the appeal of Parisian design. Hermès, which fetes its 180th anniversary this year, has been a master in leather saddles, accessories and, of course, silk. It was only in the last quarter of the 20th century that it ventured into the watchmaking business, with very serious ambitions.

Five years ago, the brand pushed forward with distinctive complications and later even went into the field of making movements. While such a move might look impulsive, it’s all part of a master plan, as revealed

by Laurent Dordet, the new CEO for the watchmaking division, during the last Baselworld fair.

He himself has been with the brand for over 20 years. He has also been involved in different métiers, from textile production in Lyon to leather goods in Paris to the watch division in Switzerland. Despite his relatively recent arrival to this part of the company, Dordet has patiently and passionately implemented his business strategies to lead Hermès’ watchmaking ventures.

Laurent Dordet Opposite page The Slim d’Hermès GRRRRR!

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“Hermès is a maison of knowhow; it’s a family passionate about know-how”

decorating the dial of the Slim d’Hermès GRRRRR! Opposite page details of the of the Slim d’Hermès l’Heure impatiente’s movement

So in 1978, [late artistic director] Jean-louis dumas decided to do what they did with silk, which was to venture into the watchmaking business by establishing a manufacture where the know-how is, Switzerland.

And the ambition was very clear from the beginning: We would do simple watches first, meaning quartz movements and stainless steel cases, but of the highest quality. We want the best sapphire crystals, stainless steel and finishing, and we work with the best supplier. then again, the main objective is to bring something new, different from what is there in the industry. So, we brought in a style that’s not typical of a watchmaker’s style, but of Hermès’ style. instead of working together with watch designers, we decided to work with Hermès’ own designers. We came up with very classic but at the same time revolutionary designs, such as the Arceau, Cape Cod and H Hour. the success was great.

What makes us also different is the philosophy of time. For this maison, time has never been a constraint, not something you want to control in a serious manner. time has, instead, always been our first ingredient to manufacture objects, whatever the object is. time is a friendly notion for us, and we always like to play with it. in the creation process, if we don’t play, if we’re not having fun with our objects, we wouldn’t be proud to showcase the products to the customers. We often like to say: We do things seriously in terms of know-how, but certainly we don’t take ourselves too seriously.

now, ten years ago, the company decided to take a step ahead with our know-how by integrating the Vaucher movement manufacturer. the question was then: What complications are we going to develop?

Again, we’re here to twist it up, to offer Hermès’ own complications, such as le temps Suspendu (in the Arceau), l’Heure Masquée (in dressage) and now l’Heure impatiente (in Slim d’Hermès). even through we’re very sure in achieving the know-how in this business, we have the ambition to offer fantasy and playfulness in our watches. da: does hermès apply for or have patents for those “poetic movements”? ld: if somebody wants to copy them, let them be. the same story told by another brand means nothing. da: What about the focus on sports watches? the Clipper collection? ld: Ah, that’s the discussion that we have internally.

Yes, we probably need a sports watch. Keep an eye out on this. da: So, the focus for men’s watches in the coming years is still on the Slim d’hermes? ld: Our major lines for men would be the Slim d’Hermès and the Arceau. We are actually thinking of a new line…

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DA: Since you mentioned about poetic movements, rumor has it that there was a delay with the delivery of the Dressage L’Heure Masquée last year. What happened?

LD: There was a delay in delivery, but I wasn’t in the watchmaking division yet. This is precisely the reason why I postponed the launch of the Slim d’Hermès L’Heure Impatiente that was initially scheduled for last year to Baselworld 2017. The L’Heure Masquee watch was launched too early, although there weren’t any technical problems.

DA: This year’s novelties don’t seem to include many métier d’art pieces, like the Slim d’Hermès Koma Kurabe.

LD: Metiér d’Art is a significant part of our retail sales worldwide. It is well appreciated and at the same time recognizable in terms of know-how. We only work with the best independent craftsmen that still create products for other brands. We’re very open to include other techniques into watchmaking, like from the crystal and porcelain making. Sometimes, we take in designs from other products under the Hermès group, like the new GRRRRR! watch from a men’s scarf. It’s an artistic point of view, reflecting other métiers. This explains why our métier d’art is successful, and why those artists like to work with us.

Close-up of the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Opposite page Caseback of the Slim d’Hermès L’Heure Impatiente

DA: Hermès is also big on making straps for Apple, will you provide straps for other brands?

LD: No, we don’t. Except for a limited number of Parmigiani Fleurier watches. That brand is not our direct partner, but it also owns the Vaucher manufacture.

That’s why we provide straps for them as well.

DA: Looking further ahead, what are the brand’s long term plans for the future?

LD: We finalized the manufacture integration last year. It took us a few years to do it, meaning that we closed one factory and transferred all the staff to another, 20km away. Now, our case and dial manufactures are under the same roof, in a very modern factory. We are also on this fair reiterating who we are once again, a French designer but Swiss manufacturer that brings to the market the fantasy and playfulness of time. Our longterm mission for Hermès is to create very aspirational products for men and women, to be one of the leaders in the women’s watch industry—we’re surrounded by giants! And also to have the ambition in the men’s watches to be a desired newcomer. Five years ago we didn’t have the collection of mechanical watches. Now, we have had awards and certifications. So, it’s time for us to engage with the customers. To earn the same legitimacy in men’s watches as in women’s watches will take time. We’re prepared for it. The good news is that Hermès has time. We will take the time needed to prove every year that our products are more and more legitimate in terms of technique and aesthetics that will be desired by watch lovers.

Now in terms of distribution, we have to fine tune our external distribution, to recruit more selected partners and further develop our e-commerce infrastructure.

E-commerce will be key to develop in certain markets, particularly in Asia and the U.S., although we’re already on e-commerce by now.

DA: Last but not least, you’ve been with the company for over two decades. What made you stay at Hermès for such long time?

LD: I didn’t intend at all to stay for over 20 years.

Frankly speaking, I’ve enjoyed my time joining a group that’s filled with high-quality people. It’s the culture of the company that respects human beings, the knowhow, suppliers and customers. So, the passion and the ambition for the know-how are still there and are still the same for over 20 years.

Secondly, Hermès does have an incredible variety of know-how. I’ve had the chance to join a small group in the beginning and, as the group grew, to take part in silk, leather, exotic leather goods, saddle-making and now watch production. Every four to five years, I have to change my mindset totally from one métier to another. But the common spirit, values, craftsmanship and creativity are always there. It’s a unique experience to see so many different mindsets and know-how but under the same work philosophy throughout one’s career. Basically, I am just lucky. I don’t have the impression of having stayed in the same company for over 20 years. Instead, it’s like living four or five different lives so far.

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NOTHING TO HIDE PHOTOGRAPHY HARUNS MAHARBINA STYLING PRIMAWAN HAKIM

THESE STUNNING TIMEPIECES PROUDLY SHOWCASE THE INTRICATE AND SCINTILLATING MOVEMENTS TICKING WITHIN THROUGH SKELETONIZED DIALS

hautlence Moebius in 52mm sapphire crystal case and leather strap with several unusual features, namely a bi-axial tourbillon and a chain-link time display, hautlence moebius is a part of the Concepts d’Exception collection of complications. Completed with a large retrograde minutes display in the center, the chain-link hours on the left and a bi-axial tourbillon placed at six o’clock, the moebius is surely a watch that is not meant to be hidden

Bell & ross Br-X1 Skeleton Dial in 45mm titanium case and woven rubber strap To create a tribute to the bell X-1, the first american experimental plane with a rocket engine to break the sound barrier in 1947, bell & ross pushed the boundaries of innovation even further by launching its fifth-generation watch. Called the br-X1, this is not just a chronograph; its rare skeleton chronograph movement is an exceptional motor combining strength and extreme lightness

hyt h4 NEo in 51mm titanium case and black reinforced fabric strap Equipped with a light source—with hYT’s exclusive patented micro-fluidic module—the light from this hYT h4 nEO flows into every nook and cranny of the mechanism, literally bringing this skeleton architecture to life and defying the old standards of watchmaking

tag heuer Carrera Calibre heuer 01 in 45mm steel case and rubber strap historically, it was under Jack heuer’s— the great grandson of the founder of TaG heuer—leadership that the Carrera was developed and launched back in 1963. now, this new look TaG heuer Carrera heuer-01 (still featuring a skeleton dial, as the trademark of the heuer-01), features chrono functions in red as a nod to the world of motor racing

panerai Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 tourbillon gMt in 47mm titanium case and leather strap Dedicated to the Tuscan genius Galileo Galilei, who laid the foundations for the development of mechanical timepieces, this watch is fitted with the first Panerai tourbillon caliber in titanium with fine skeletonized bridges and plates. The Lo scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GmT Titanio is limited to only 150 specimens

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Change is Coming

Salon InternatIonal de la Haute HorlogerIe, tHe InduStry’S moSt excluSIve trade SHow, welcomeS new exHIbItorS wHIle makIng a pleaSant SurprISe

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ast January, all eyes were on Geneva, as the 27th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) took place at Palexpo Exhibition Center. As a melting pot of many watch brands, this is where the latest trends in technical and precious watchmaking are revealed, as the exhibitors unveil their finest creations and where the people who are shaping the industry today and tomorrow meet. Professionals, journalists and influencers, experienced and aspiring collectors all converge on this unique and eagerly anticipated event.

RecoRd BReakeR SIHH has always been full of surprises, and this year is no exception. Keeping up with the pace of changes that began last year, this year opened with two major developments.

Firstly, the fair will host two additional watchmaking maisons—the grand return of Girard-Perregaux to the SIHH after a few years at Baselworld, and the addition of first-time exhibitor Ulysse Nardin—along with five artisan-creators and independent workshops—Grönefeld, MCT, Ressence, RJ-Romain Jerome, and Speake-Marin— in the Carré des Horlogers. Secondly, SIHH opened its doors to the public for the first time.

The arrival of new partners brought the total number of exhibitors to 30, which was truly a record since the salon was first launched in 1991. There was more to see both in the main aisles and in the Carré

des Horlogers—a showcase for artisan-creators and independent workshops—resulting in a unique panorama of contemporary fine watchmaking.

While the SIHH remains an industry event, at the final day the salon opened its doors to the public. This allowed a much wider audience to enjoy the fair, as from the time of its inception 27 years ago, SIHH, by definition, sought to remain a closed industry event. Then again, times are changing and new models of distribution have triggered a shift in the approach of the various maisons. Watchmaking brands are now retailers as well as producers, and in direct contact with the end client. They have become conscious of the need to get to know their clientele better in order to hone their offerings accordingly.

All that being said, one question remains: Is it too late for this kind of change? Well, as the saying goes, it’s better late than never. This initiative was successful, as shown by the record number of visitors for the entire week. This year, attendance rose by 10 percent to 16,000 visitors including 1,200 journalists and 2,500 public visitors on the last day of the exhibition.

TangiBle RealiTy Despite a difficult 2016 for the Swiss watch industry, a lot of manufactures were ready to show off their variety of collections. A definite highlight would be the use of cool new materials, as exemplified by the

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A. lange & Söhne’s tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Mérite Opposite page the entrance area of SiHH 2017; the booth of Vacheron Constantin

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“The arrival of new partners brought the total number of exhibitors to 30, which was truly a record since the salon was first launched in 1991” new RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1 from Richard Mille. Produced in collaboration with the McLaren-Honda F1 racing team, the RM 50-03 is the world’s lightest split-seconds tourbillon chronograph. The watch makes use of a nanomaterial called Graph TPT that is further improved by injections of graphene, making it six times lighter than steel and 200 times stronger. The result? Including the strap, RM 50-03 McLaren F1 weighs less than 40 grams.

Next is the black ceramic for Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. A challenging to master but completely scratch-resistant, black ceramic withstands high temperatures and thermal shocks, and is consequently extremely resistant to ageing. Numerous operations demanding extreme patience and skill are required to achieve a uniform, compact and ultra-hard material that can then be machined and hand-finished. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar features day, date, month, astronomical moon and week of the year. The leap year indication— pioneered by Audemars Piguet in 1955—is also featured on the “Grande Tapisserie” decorated dial.

Other maisons, meanwhile, were seen trying to create much more complicated watches. For instance, following up last year’s achievement of the most complicated pocket watch ever created, Vacheron Constantin released their most complicated wristwatch by far. Named the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, this one-of-a-kind watch is one of the world’s most complicated wristwatches with 23 mainly astronomical complications. This impressive feat of miniaturization features a combined display of civil,

solar and sidereal times, each with its own gear train.

Its new fully integrated caliber is a pinnacle of technical sophistication, featuring a total of 514 components in a case that is 8.7mm thick.

Another demonstration of technical complication comes in the form of A. Lange & Söhne’s Tourbograph Perpetual Pour Le Mérite. The fifth masterpiece in A. Lange & Söhne’s “Pour le Mérite” series combines the fuséeand-chain transmission with a tourbillon, a rattrapante chronograph and a perpetual calendar. The combination of these five complications makes the Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”a peerless timepiece.

Furthermore, SIHH 2017 also saw some favorites making their comebacks. Like Panthère de Cartier, one of the most distinctive Cartier designs, which is as much a watch as it is also a beautiful piece of jewelry. Created in the 1980s and more contemporary than ever, it is a true style icon for women who never go unnoticed.

Then there’s the new TimeWalker collection, which recalls the golden era of vintage racing. Minerva, now the Montblanc Manufacture, was one of the select few to set the pace with groundbreaking professional chronographs.

The chronograph, of course, has always been an icon of fair play and sportsmanship, fuelling both rivalry and ambition. Minerva’s inspiring timepieces witnessed some of the greatest moments in motorsport history, embodying the racing spirit in an age when legends were still being made. The TimeWalker continues this legacy.

Last but not least, IWC Schaffhausen revisits its iconic design from the 1980s and presents the 2017 Da Vinci collection, once again with its classic round case. The Da

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Clockwise from top the timewalker collection display at SiHH 2017; an art installation by iWC Schaffhausen; Jaeger-leCoultre’s booth Opposite page the Vacheron Constantin les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600

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Clockwise from top Baume & Mercier’s booth; Montblanc at SiHH 2017; the Swiss Mad Watch by H. Moser & Cie Opposite page the late Walter lange

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Vinci Automatic 36 and the Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 are tailored for women, while the Da Vinci Automatic is a unisex model. Two Da Vinci timepieces feature newly developed IWC-manufactured caliber that innovatively combine and integrate complications.

agRee To disagRee Then, there were bold offerings from the Carré des Horlogers. There’s H. Moser & Cie. with the Swiss Mad Watch that features real Swiss cheese. With this unique watch, H. Moser & Cie. demonstrates the importance and urgency of returning the Swiss Made label to its former heights. The watch, in essence, echoes the absurdity and the ridiculousness of recent regulatory changes.

Requirements for the Swiss Made label in watchmaking was revised on January 1st to require 60 percent of the components in a watch to be of Swiss origin.

H. Moser & Cie. has soundly critiqued the shortcomings of this inadequate regulation and stands up for true independent Swiss watchmakers. Created in Switzerland, by Swiss watchmakers, using 100-percent natural and materials from Switzerland, the Swiss Mad Watch is a symbolic and satirical comment on the issue, tackling Swiss Made debate head on to reveal the truth behind this label.

in MeMoRiaM Despite the fact that SIHH continues to grow and attract leading names in luxury and talented independents, there is also a sad story in the middle of the 2017 event. At the

second day of SIHH 2017, on January 17 to be precise, the world learned of the passing of Walter Lange, the man who re-established his family’s legacy in watchmaking by restoring A. Lange & Söhne back in 1990 after the unification of Germany.

That day, after the press conferences, interviews and meetings were over, large crowds gathered at the A. Lange & Söhne booth to offer their condolences and pay their respects. Surely, the passing of Walter Lange had a profound effect on the fair, as the watch industry lost one of its few genuine icons.

TiMing closuRe In the prevailing climate for watch exports over the past year and a half, the success of SIHH 2017 was by no means a foregone conclusion. As the curtain came down, there is every reason to be optimistic. As seen from the variety of new watches on display, it seemed clear that all the brands reacted to last year’s slump with a two-part approach. First, they’ve given a solid range of interesting novelties, pushing the mechanical and artistic limits of the profession. But, for the second part, while aiming for the future, they were also producing more accessible models and extended their entry-level ranges. These qualities were clearly evident at SIHH 2017 which opened a year that will undoubtedly see fine watchmaking return to a sound footing. That being said, all the exhibiting maisons proved they were able to adapt their products to prevailing economical conditions, suggesting that 2017 will indeed be a year of consolidation.

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“The passing of Walter Lange had a profound effect on the fair, as the watch industry lost one of its few genuine icons”

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Rifts and Shifts

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Changes at the 2017 Baselworld Fair hinted at Bigger, imminent shiFts in the years to Come

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nyone who has frequented the annual Baselworld fair would quickly notice that’s something missing from this year’s event. To be precise, it’s the Baselworld Palace that’s gone absent—a large hut-like setup across the Hyperion Hotel (formerly the Ramada). This is where a number of great independent brands, the likes of Hautlence, HYT, MB&F, Arnold & Son and de Bethune, used to showcase their wares. This time around, some of those names are found on the second floor of Hall 1. It’s still an attractive spot, but not as out in the open as before.

At that time, rumor has it that many brands—including some of the big players with prime spots on the ground floor—had been eyeing the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) fair as a better venue to attract buyers interested in very high-end timepieces. For sure, SIHH’s willingness to embrace more brands, especially with the establishment of the Carré des Horlogers, has motivated many players to test the waters.

All that being said, Baselworld 2017 still reigned supreme as the exhibition to see when it comes to watches.

Star Power and HorSePower

Celebrities at one of Bulgari’s events during Baselworld 2017 Opposite page Patek Philippe’s booth

Those looking for the main spectacles of Baselworld 2017, would find it at the very beginning, right before the entrance to the prestigious Hall 1. Here, the LVMH Group—Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith—played it up with big launches and celebrities.

Italian jeweler Bulgari, who had just carved another world record for the thinnest automatic movement with the Octo Finissimo Automatic, summoned international model Jon Kortajarena and Korean pop star Kris Wu. TAG Heuer, meanwhile, drew in crowds to its booth

with the presence of actor Patrick Dempsey and Jack Heuer—who represents the fourth generation of the brand’s founder—along with the re-launched Autavia range of timepieces. Unsurprisingly, the marketing-savvy brand has already stirred up buzz for the new collection months before through an online poll to decide which 1960s Autavia design is worthy of being resurrected in 2017. On top of all that, Dempsey made his directing debut with the video campaign for the project. “What began as an inkling of an idea unfolded naturally by itself as a message to Jack [Heuer] that couldn’t have been delivered any other way,” he added during the press conference. “I had the privilege to work with the best and we’re all extremely proud of the result.”

Both Zenith and Hublot, meanwhile, tagged a carmaker and a musician to steal the spotlight during the weeklong event. The former collaborated once again with Land Rover and had Swizz Beatz—the American producer who is also singer Alicia Keys’ husband—show up during the launch of the Defy El Primero 21, the movement that succeeded the El Primero chronograph caliber. As the icing on the proverbial cake, the brand once again opened a free barbershop inside its booth.

Hublot, on the other hand, is basking in the glory of being arguably the hippest label in the industry. For one, the brand put up multiple watches in an open-box display that can swivel to display different models with a simple swipe—a bit like how you’d operate a smartphone.

Of course, even more eye-catching was the new Ferrari Aperta car parked on the side of the booth. And on March 19, British EDM legend Depeche Mode stood next to the supercar to raise awareness for the band’s charity

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“With so many brands out there trying to be ‘millennial,’ it’s nice to see how some stick to their DNA” partnership with Hublot. “For many years, I have been an enthusiastic supporter of charity: water,” said Depeche Mode frontman Martin Gore, “and I am delighted that with Hublot, we can continue to support their mission of providing clean and safe drinking water for all.”

Jean-Claude Biver, head of watchmaking at LVMH, appeared in most of these occasions. Unsurprisingly, it’s said that he’s the man behind all of this, especially for Zenith, after having gone missing from the headlines in previous years. It’s certainly impressive to see how the 60-year-old juggled all these brands.

new Game VerSuS old Game If there’s one particular watch that really set the tone for Baselworld 2017, it would perhaps be TAG Heuer’s Connected Modular 45. Not only is it a genuinely Swiss-made connected watch, it also allows for easy and quick personalization—the lugs and strap/bracelet can be plugged in and out like Lego pieces. The connected module can even be exchanged for a high-end mechanical one. There were plenty of brands that pushed toward the same direction, but more often than not, they focused merely providing interchangeable strap options for particular models.

Tudor drew much attention with handsome Heritage Black Bay novelties, especially the S&G (steel and gold) model. It also announced a new campaign and surprising news about its collaboration in manufacture movement with Breitling, which was rumored to be on sale. (The latter was eventually acquired by CVC Capital Partners in late April.) This kind partnership was particularly interesting as in-house movements have been an imperative technical and marketing feature that could elevate a brand’s value.

The major brands from the Swatch Group, meanwhile, seem to capitalize on retro looks and sentimental values.

Omega was feting the Speedmaster’s 60th anniversary and also brought back three historic timepieces in the classy Omega 1957 Trilogy Limited Editions—a package that’s bound to be the talk among avid collectors for years to come. With so many brands out there trying to be “millennial,” it’s nice to see how some of the more established names are sticking to their DNA and making sure that real timepieces garner the honor and appreciation they deserve.

A little bit of surprise, though, came from Rado, which struck out with new designs from some of the most creative heads around the world. Take the True Phospho, done with the Big-Game design studio, and the True Stratum, co-developed with Austrian designer Rainer Mutsch. For the latter, Mutsch shared: “I was trying to re-question, in a subtle way, how time is displayed by introducing an element of three-dimensionality on the dial. The appearance of the dial changes constantly depending on the light, always creating new reflections and gradients.” The dials are thus irreverently fresh, and to have them paired with quality ETA movements seems to be a promising move.

Yet another surprise was how Samsung managed to snag a place on the first floor of Hall 1. Besides exhibiting its extensive Samsung Gear collection, the brand also offered a virtual reality “ride” which came as a welcome break for tired journalists at the busy fair. No less fascinating is how Chanel also had a virtual reality experience on offer. A booth called #LeTempsChanel allowed visitors to immerse themselves in a 3D presentation of the newest in-house movement Caliber 2, which is used in the Première Camellia Skeleton.

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Clockwise Gerry Mcgovern, Jean-ClaudeBiver and Swizz Beatz; live music performance courtesy of Hublot; RainerMutsch, designer of the Rado true Stratum Opposite page tAG Heuer Autavia

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Clockwise Omega’s impressive booth; Bulgari’s corner at the fair; in front of Hublot’s booth Opposite page the H0 from HYt

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trendS to tend Overall, slim watches made one of the strongest showings across Baselworld 2017. It can be argued that it was the global success of Daniel Wellington that kicked off this trend—which isn’t too much of a stretch. And then there’s the popularity of changeable straps too.

Women’s watches took the front seat for the latter.

From Blancpain to Bomberg, brands are helping watch owners change straps like pros. And the strap variants on offer are mesmerizing: Hublot served a bevy of vivid colors; TAG Heuer added a healthy dose of bling; Blancpain five different alligator leather straps for the Villeret Quantième à Phase de Lune.

Still in the realm of straps but looking at the nonchangeable options, one particular novelty worth mentioning would be the Cape Cod Shadow from Hermès with its double-wrap black leather bracelet with red lining Another trend gaining attention is unisex timepieces.

Size is usually the ultimate factor differentiating between men’s and women’s timekeeping instruments, but the lines are blurring with models like, say, the H0 watch from HYT. While it might be inconvenient for most women to wear a watch with a 48.8mm case, the lack of lugs and horns did manage to dampen the rugged and tough look so typical of HYT watches. Perhaps a better argument for unisex watches can be made by Omega’s Speedmaster 38mm. The diamonds on the bezel add a hint of femininity that would still look good on anyone’s wrist.

Even more interesting was the way a number of brands emphasized the value of quartz movements—which was a not-so-subtle sign of big dips in the global economy.

Nevertheless, Breitling made a convincing case with the Colt Skyracer—its most affordable novelty this year. The watch is made of with Breitlight (the brand’s light yet durable proprietary polymer) and uses a SuperQuartz movement for enhanced precision and longevity. Longines, meanwhile, unveiled a less complicated quartz timepiece under the name Conquest V.H.P. The second part of the name stands for “Very High Precision,” and continues a success story from the 1980s of a quartz movement that accurately notes the passing of time better than a mechanical chronometer. The price points of both models certainly appeals to new watch enthusiasts looking to invest in affordable but dependable (and also exquisite) quartz watches.

And what about connected watches? In this category, things looked pretty steady: TAG Heuer, Breitling and Frederique Constant were still expending a lot of effort into this category at Baselworld 2017 and for the remainder of the year. And there are new players as well.

The Movado group, known for creating watches for fashion brands such as Lacoste and Tommy Hilfiger, also jumped on the bandwagon.

Mobile technology, however, also showed up in a less direct way. Bulgari employed a special mobile application, dubbed My Serpenti, to allow potential buyers to quickly and easily customize their order. Options available include just about everything from strap material to the watchcase, dial color and diamonds. And then, it would take only two months for the product to be ready for delivery. If anything, this will most likely be how high-end watch commerce will be run in the future. Only time will tell.

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“Size may be the ultimate difference between men’s and women’s timekeeping instrument, but the line gets blurred with the H0 from HYT”

A Cut Above In the world of hIgh-end watchmakIng, dIamonds can often be a man’s best frIend too

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The 4Cs When talking or reading about diamonds, especially when it comes to the quality rating of a stone, you’ll often encounter terms like “cut,” “carat,” “fire” and so on. Simply put, today, the most commonly accepted ways of measuring a diamond’s quality is the 4Cs as established by the Gemological Institute of America or GIA. The 4Cs are: color, cut, clarity and carat.

Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon Baguette Diamonds Opposite page A diamond-encrusted Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch

Color: The best diamonds are naturally colorless. For this category, GIA has established a rating system using letters from D to Z. Stones rated D to F are considered “colorless,” while G to J are still “nearly colorless” and thus quite valuable. K to M stones have “faint” coloration, while N to R indicate “very light” hues of brown or yellow that’s distinguishable by the naked eye. Finally, S to Z stones have “light” coloration. There are also fancy colored diamonds, but that’s a whole different issue.

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Cut: This term is often mistaken for a diamond’s shape, which includes the traditional round and baguette to heart and marquise variants. Technically speaking, however, a diamond’s cut has more to do with the proportions of its facets and the way it delivers light to the eye of the beholder. The diamond’s cut also influences its “brightness” (the way light reflects of the diamond), “fire” (how it scatters white light into all the colors of the rainbow) and “scintillation” (essentially its sparkle, especially when a diamond is moved under natural light). The rating system for cut goes from Excellent to Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.

Clarity: As a product of a natural process, diamonds often have flaws in the form of inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external).

The clarity rating indicates the number, size, nature and position of these flaws, or “characteristics” as it is known in the

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hen it comes to belle horlogerie—beautiful watchmaking—people often speak in awe of enameled dials, guilloche on parts of the movement or intricate carvings and many other dainty touches that elevate a timepiece into a stunning work of art. Gem setting, especially the addition of diamonds, is often dismissed as gimmicky—as extra sparkle meant solely to increase a watch’s value.

Besides, diamond-encrusted accessories is not exactly something for gentleman, right?

Wrong.

Adding precious stones to a watch is not merely a finishing touch. In fine watches, the way diamonds or other gemstones are incorporated into the design is a coherent part of the overall production of a timepiece. This means that extreme care is afforded in how gems are added to the watch and the wearer of the watch is also carefully considered— whether it’s a gentleman or a lady.

Before we go further into the intricacies of gem-setting in haute horlogerie, perhaps a small discussion on diamonds itself is in order.

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industry. Flawless (FL) diamonds appear free from inclusions or blemishes even under 10x magnification. The rating system then continues with Internally Flawless (IF), Very, Very Slightly Included (encompassing VVS1 and VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2), Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) and Included (I1, I2 and I3).

While it’s not that important to understand the technicalities of the rating, familiarity with the rating systems might give you a better idea of the credibility of a diamond’s (or a diamond encrusted watch’s) value. Which brings us to the final C...

Carat: Put simply, carat indicates a diamond’s weight, with one carat being equal to 200 milligrams. Sometimes, you might also hear a diamond’s weight expressed in points, with a full carat equal to 100 points. So, a 0.25ct stone might be described as a “twenty five pointer” and so on.

Now, unlike with precious metals, the relationship between carat weight and price isn’t as straightforward. First of all, there are the other three Cs to consider. Secondly, there is also weights that are considered “magic sizes.” These are diamonds that weigh in exactly at half, three-quarter and full carats.

The prices for these stones are significantly higher. So, for example, the physical difference between a 0.99ct stone and a once carat diamond is essentially negligible; but the latter will be much, much more expensive.

As a final note on carat weight, the costper-carat for diamonds in watches tend to be much higher than for jewelry. And in the next section, you’ll see why.

sCinTillaTing TimepieCes Diamonds—as well as other precious stones— are considered an integral part of a watch’s design, and will dictate how the watch will eventually take shape. At least that’s how it’s done for a proper fine, diamond-encrusted watch, where the jeweler and stone-setter will work closely with the watch’s designer since the earliest stages.

The first step with respect to diamonds is, of course, selecting the stones. This is no easy task as it’s not simply a matter of picking the best diamonds—the ones with the highest marks for their 4Cs—but the diamonds also need to be perfectly matched in terms of cut, color, clarity and also carat.

“The slighTesT differenCe in hue, a single sTone ouT of a dozen wiTh a noTiCeable impuriTy or perhaps one ThaT doesn’T sCinTillaTe exaCTly like The oTher Ten around iT will be quiTe ConspiCuous”

See, whether it’s a watch with only a dozen or less diamonds for the indexes or one with the entire dial encrusted in diamonds, the simple fact is that all of those glittering stones will be concentrated on a rather small surface. Quite often, they will also be framed by the bezel and case. So, the geometry of the watch—particularly the case—demands exactness in terms of shape, color, clarity and cut. The slightest difference in hue, a single stone out of a dozen with a noticeable impurity or perhaps one that doesn’t scintillate exactly like the other ten around it will be quite conspicuous. And even one flaw like this will quickly undermine the appearance of the watch as a whole.

With the stones in mind, the case, strap and other components of the watch is then designed and crafted and prepared to be set with the diamonds. Basically, this can be done either by drilling holes on the crafted components or by filing away metal. The latter, in particular, is commonly used for pavé settings where an entire surface is covered

The Diamond Outrage Opposite page The making of Chopard’s Happy Diamond watches

Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sapphire Baguettes Opposite page H. Moser & Cie’s Swiss Alp Watch on the Rocks

“unlike wiTh preCious meTals, The relaTionship beTween a diamond’s CaraT weighT and iTs priCe isn’T as sTraighTforward” with diamonds packed closely together.

Naturally, the components in question are then polished to smooth away the marks of drilling or shaving that’s been done.

The actual setting method will vary from design to design, but some of the more common ones include: Prong settings (where metal prongs or “claws” hold individual stones in place), grain or millgrain settings (where small beads formed from small shaving of metal secure the stone), closed (where a circle of metal—quite like a bezel—grips the stone), channel (where stones are lined between metal “rails” and held in a groove) and the invisible setting (which was patented by Cartier and which creates the appearance of multiple stones holding each other in place).

a man’s besT friend?

Obviously, there has never been a shortage of women’s watches with diamonds. A particularly grand example of this would be Audemars Piguet’s Diamond Outrage, which was preceded by the Diamond Fury in 2016 and the Diamond Punk in 2015. These (and others which you can see in the Women’s Watches section of this issue as well as previous editions of DA MAN Caliber) tend to lean more towards haute joallerie rather than belle horlogerie—while they are beautiful watches, they can easily pass for being highend jewelry.

The majority of men’s watches with diamonds, however, tend to be a bit more subtle. Or it used to be. From the same brand that gave us the Diamond Outrage also comes the Royal Oak Chronograph Diamond Pave White Gold Men’s Watch. The case, bezel, dial and even bracelet are paved with diamonds, plus several sapphires for the hour indexes. H. Moser & Cie’s Swiss Alp Watch

on the Rocks is another example of how a watch with an extra helping of diamonds.

For gents with more conservative tastes, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus Ref. 5713 with its diamond-studded bezel could be a great option. Of course, the brand also has many models featuring diamonds in a more subtle configuration, usually on the hour markers.

Cartier, unsurprisingly, has quite a lineup of diamond watches for men. These range from the still rather subtle Ronde Louis Cartier watch, the eye-catching Clé de Cartier 35 mm flying tourbillon watch up to the understated but impactful High Jewelry Watch.

But even sporty watches can come with prestigious bling. Take Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sapphire Baguettes watch, for instance, which pairs diamonds and a sapphire crystal case. TAG Heuer, meanwhile, has the Carrera Heuer-02T Baguette-Cut Diamond. There is even a variant of the Modular 45 connected watch that comes with a diamond-encrusted bezel, and is apparently the timepiece of choice for brand ambassador and “art provocateur” Alec Monopoly.

So, to conclude, if you do have a taste for precious stones, especially diamonds, there is a watch out there for you. And rest assured that the stones added to your timepiece of choice goes much further than just “extra bling.”

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Days of the Year An in-depth look At the one horologicAl complicAtion we use the most And its extended fAmily

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THE BASICS

Patek Philippe ref. 5053, the first annual calendar watch Opposite page Breguet’s Marine Équation Marchante 5887 with equation of time

At the lowest tier of the calendar complication family we have the simple date window. Following this is the day-date indicator with two apertures, one for the name of the day and the date. It should be noted, however, that these basic mechanisms do not take the month into account. In other words, these watches always operate on a 31-day cycle, forcing the owner to manually adjust the dates at the end of every 30-day month as well as at the end of February.

Another step up and we have the complete calendar, sometimes also called the triple calendar simply because it indicates three bits of information: day, date and month. Still, this category of watches still doesn’t take differing month lengths into account, and manual adjustment will be necessary at the end of certain months.

Of course, slight variations of presentation based on these basic concepts also exist. Some watches, for instance, emphasize the date display by using large, double apertures with the left window displaying 0 to 3 and the right 0 to 9.

Others use a small sub-dial to indicate the date of the month or an extra hand that points to dates placed along the outside periphery of the dial. The latter is sometimes known as a “Bankers” date display.

COMPLICATED CALENDARS From here on, things get much more complicated, but also much more fascinating.

So, stepping up from the complete calendar we have the annual calendar. Put simply, an annual calendar “knows” which months end on the 30th and which ones run until the 31st. The problem, however, is February.

You can blame the Ancient Romans for the mess with February, but what this means for us today is that if you have a watch with an annual calendar complication, you still have to manually adjust the date display at the end of every February.

Fortunately, the next tier of calendar complications knows how to deal with the pesky second month. We are, of course, talking about perpetual calendars.

Also known as the quantième complet, the perpetual calendar is actually considered grand complication due to its sheer complexity. As the name implies, a perpetual calendar can track the correct date perpetually. Well, at least until 2100 that is.

Here we come face to face with yet another quirk of the Gregorian calendar— one that is perhaps a bit lesser known. See, we are all familiar with leap years, right?

Every four years, we add an extra day to February. The thing is, not every year divisible by four counts as a leap year: If a year is divisible by 100 but not by 400, then it’s counted as a normal year. So, 2000 was a leap year, but 2100 won’t be. For this added complexity, you can thank Pope Gregory XIII—although he did so in an attempt to fix the mess left by the Romans, so he’s not entirely to blame, we guess.

Back to the perpetual calendar, the basic mechanism of this complication has a “mechanical memory” of 1,461 days, or four years including one February 29th.

Left on its own, a perpetual calendar watch will essentially show the correct date for the foreseeable future. Sure, it will need

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mong the many mechanical complications in a watch, the most common and useful one—and perhaps also the most underappreciated variety—are calendars. In the realm of fine watchmaking, however, calendar complications encompass much, much more than simple day/date displays.

In fact, you’ve likely heard of terms like “perpetual calendar,” “annual calendars” and so on. So, below, we will take you on a brief tour of the complication family bringing the days of the year to your wrist.

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one adjustment come March 1, 2100, but afterwards, it will dependably tell the correct date for another century. There is, however, one caveat: A perpetual calendar watch needs to be constantly kept wound. Once it’s out of sync, a considerable amount of adjustment needs to be done to bring the calendar back on track.

Design-wise, most perpetual calendars feature the same layout of complete watches: the day, date and month are displayed on apertures on the dial. Some models, however, will also have a separate indicator for where the current year stands in the leap year cycle.

Surprisingly, the annual calendar complication is much newer than the perpetual calendar. The oldest known perpetual calendar is a pocket watch made

by English horologist Thomas Mudge in 1762. Then in 1889, Patek Philippe filed a patent for a perpetual calendar mechanism used in pocket watches. The brand was also the first to put a perpetual calendar in a wristwatch back in 1925. (For an in-depth look at Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar watches, flip to the Legacy section.)

So, when do you think did the annual calendar first appear? The answer is 1996.

More than a century after issuing a patent for the first perpetual calendar, Patek

“ALSO kNOwN AS THE quANTIèME COMPLET, THE PERPETuAL CALENDAR IS ACTuALLy CONSIDERED gRAND COMPLICATION DuE TO ITS SHEER COMPLExITy” Philippe was issued one for the first annual calendar watch. The result was the Patek Philippe ref. 5035 and a long line of annual calendar watches that, in the twenty decades following the complication’s debut, has become some of the most coveted models.

For sure, with the aesthetics of the more complicated perpetual calendar watches but at a much reasonable price, the brand’s annual calendars are particularly attractive.

EVEN MORE COMPLICATED While perpetual calendars are already immensely complex, the pinnacle of calendar complications is, without doubt, the equation of time. A watch with this complicated complication shows us the difference between “true” solar time (in other

Panerai’s radiomir 1940 equation of Time 8 days and Luminor 1950 equation of Time 8 days Opposite page audemars Piguet’s royak oak Perpetual Calendar

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“wHILE PERPETuAL CALENDARS ARE ALREADy IMMENSELy COMPLEx, THE PINNACLE Of CALENDAR COMPLICATIONS IS, wITHOuT DOuBT, THE EquATION Of TIME” words, nature’s time) and “mean” solar time (a manmade construct—what we, humans, count as a full day). Please bear with us as we attempt to explain.

See, the Earth’s orbit around the sun is elliptical. Not only that, the axis of the planet’s rotation is slightly tilted from perpendicular to the plane of the equator.

As a result of these two factors, the length of a “true” solar day (which is defined as the

interval between two “true” noons—when the sun is at its highest point in the sky) varies quite a bit throughout the year. In fact, there are only four days in the year that are exactly 24 hours: April 15, June 14, September 1 and December 24. All the other days are either shorter or longer than 24 hours, ranging from minus 16 minutes and 23 seconds (on November 4) to plus 14 minutes and 22 seconds (February 11).

Historically, sundials would show “true” solar time, and some early clocks were equipped with mechanisms that would correct their readings to match sundials.

As mechanical clocks became our standard timekeeping device, “mean” time (which was technically “uncorrected”) became the accepted standard. Equation of time watches (with the word “equation” here is used in the archaic sense of “reconciling a difference”) once again allows us to follow “true” time.

Most equation of time watches show the difference between “true” time and “mean” time on a separate sub-dial (usually an arc)

which graduates from -16 to +14 minutes.

All the wearer has to do is either add or subtract the number on the sub-dial from the time shown on the main dial. More complicated equation of time watches would have a running equation (or équation marchante) featuring two coaxial minute hands, which would allow you to tell true and mean solar time at a glance.

A good example of equation of time watches would be Breguet’s Marine Équation Marchante 5887. The watch, which pays tribute to the brand’s rich heritage in marine chronometry, features a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and an equation of time—in this case, it’s of the running equation variety. So, the new Marine Équation Marchante comes with a second minute hand that directly shows solar time minutes.

For a more subtle option, we have Panerai’s Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days and Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days (both are limited edition releases).

The designs of these watches are quite straightforward and still uniquely Panerai; but this simplicity belies the complexity of the equation of time mechanism hidden within. The only sign that there’s something inherently special is the -15 to +15 equation indicator at 6 o’clock.

Unlike the perpetual calendar, equation of time watches are not exactly useful in today’s world—unless, perhaps, you’re an astronomer. Still, much like, say, the tourbillon, it is the mark of excellence and mastery in watchmaking. Moreover, it tells us a story of how our ancestors from centuries ago devised the intricate workings of our part of the cosmos and developed the craftsmanship to express the movement of the heavens through gears, levers and wheels.

This is a story of human ingenuity and craftsmanship, condensed into a mechanism that fits into a small case that can, in turn, sit comfortably on your wrist. If that’s not a story worth telling and wearing, we don’t know what is.

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MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar Opposite page The globemaster annual Calendar from omega

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The Allure of Timeless elegAnce PhotograPhy robby agus StyliNg Peter Zewet

The disTincTive waTches from carTier has always formed a class of iTs own in hauTe horlogerie. combining Timeless elegance and cuTTing-edge Technology, The maison has produced some of The finesT waTches in The world meanT for Those wiTh exquisiTe TasTe

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Cartier tank anglaise in 47mm x 36.2mm steel case and steel and 18K gold bracelet outfit by Lanvin

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Cartier tank MC Chronograph in 34.3mm steel case and leather strap outfit by sacoor brothers

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drive de Cartier extra-Flat in 39mm 18K pink gold case and leather strap outfit by Prada

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drive de Cartier Moon Phases in 41mm steel case and leather strap outfit by ermenegildo Zegna

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drive de Cartier day/Night indicator in 41mm steel case and leather strap outfit by ermenegildo Zegna

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ClĂŠ de Cartier in 40mm steel case and leather strap outfit by sacoor brothers

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Calibre de Cartier diver Blue in 42mm steel case and rubber strap outfit by Lanvin Styling assistant Primawan Hakim grooming Linda Kusumadewi Model Nic thompson/ Dragonfly agency location Dirty Laundry bar (Fairgrounds sCbD Lot 14 Jl. Jend. sudirman Kav. 52-53 Jakarta selatan +62 21 51402266)

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Tank de CarTier—an exquisiTe ColleCTion ThaT has Come Through The ages wiTh sTyle and eleganCe—CelebraTes iTs firsT CenTury

Tank Louis CarTier In a distinctive design that spans a century since its creation in 1922, the Tank Louis Cartier symbolizes the quintessential Tank

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his year is a monumental year for Cartier, as it marks the 100th anniversary of the Tank de Cartier collection. Historically, the collection was inspired by the treads of the Renault FT-17 light tank, one of the earliest tank models which saw widespread use during WWI. The watches themselves were designed and created by Louis Cartier, grandson of the brand’s founder, back in 1917. As the story goes, Cartier, modeled the design of the Tank watches after the top view of the actual tank. In this case, the brancards—the parallel and vertical bars on the side of the Tank that incorporate the lugs of the strap—evokes the treads, while the case represents the cockpit of the vehicle.

Now 100 years old, the Tank watch has never been so new. The strength of the design lays in its dramatic break with elaborate curves that were so fashionable at the time and the exercise of restraint in its form. For free spirits from every age, it is a universal symbol of style and elegance that has taken an unprecedented path. And this path has now spanned an entire century.

While bridging different eras, the collection has given rise to a resolutely modern way of life centered around three cult models: the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Américaine and the Tank Française. As for the watch centennial this year, Cartier has introduced a new collection based on some of its most iconic models.

de Cartier spirit. Today, the model offers two new faces, both powered by the 8971 MC mechanical movement with manual winding.

The watch itself comes in two size options: small or large model. Tone-wise, there are pink and white gold variants set with diamonds, along with two pink gold models without diamonds. Also noteworthy of the new Tank Louis Cartier is that instead of the sapphire cabochon on the crown, there’s a matching diamond instead.

Tank amériCaine Based on the curved case of the 1921 Tank Cintrée watch, the Tank Américaine was first designed in 1987 and then subsequently launched in 1989. More importantly, the Tank Américaine was also the first Cartier watch to offer a curved water-resistant case.

Coming in three sizes—small, medium and large—the new Tank Américaine

The new Tank Louis Cartier and Tank Américaine Opposite page The Tank Louis Cartier in pink gold

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“For free spirits from every age, the Tank is a universal symbol of style and elegance that has taken an unprecedented path spanning an entire century” embodies the spirit of the original Tank’s contemporary and understated aesthetics.

The small version is powered by a quartz movement, while the medium and large versions of the watch are powered by a mechanical movement with automatic winding. All three feature a silvered dial with a brushed center and elongated Roman numerals that wrap around the edge of the dial. With clean lines and a strong presence on the wrist, the eternally elegant model makes an utterly modern statement. Finally, the watch does an excellent job in presenting stainless steel as a precious material.

Tank Française When it was created in 1996, the Tank Française basically transformed the stylistic features of the Tank line of watches. The case was attached to a metal bracelet and the design of the brancards was reconfigured.

On the dial, the watch features Roman numerals and a “rail-track” minute circle.

These became the perfect background for the sword-shaped hands. Topping it all of is a winding crown adorned with a sapphire cabochon. Now, the new stainless steel version of this model is available in small

and medium sizes and is set with diamonds.

Inside this elaborate case is a high quality quartz movement.

Tank CinTrée skeLeTon Hesitating between a square or a rectangle, Cartier chose the latter for one of its first watches: The Tank Cintrée, whose curved design snugly hugs the wrist. Its powerful shape is delimited by a pair of brancards that adds structure to the watch’s overall look.

For this year’s release, Cartier introduced a new and exciting twist by skeletonizing the dial of the Cintrée. Conceived like a true work of art, this watch juxtaposes the elegance of bold aesthetics with a singular, uncommon caliber. The Cintrée Skeleton comes in platinum and pink gold. Both use the manual winding caliber 9917MC. More importantly, both of these two stunning watches are limited edition models with only 100 pieces being produced. Its transparent design only preserves the bare essentials: the hands, the chemin de fer—the double line on the dial that represents the chapter ring—and the overlapping gears in the background, all contained within the distinctive curve of the Tank Cintrée.

Tank Française and Tank Cintrée Skeleton

CHemin De Fer As an unmistakable Cartier signature, this graphic crops up throughout the dials of Tank watches. Chemin de fer is the term for the double lines on the dial that represents the chapter ring—and also evokes train tracks

BranCarD Brancards are the parallel and vertical bars on the side of the Tank that incorporate the lugs of the strap. The harmonious blending of the case and lugs signals a unique stylistic leap forward in the field

WinDinG CroWn Set with a sapphire cabochon, the winding crown is beaded or faceted.

roman numeraLs Like the majority of Tank watches, the hours are shown in Roman numerals. They lend a heightened graphic impact to the dial when used in combination with the chemin de fer

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Perpetually On Time An introduction to one of the most celebrAted “fAmilies” in horology: PAtek PhiliPPe’s PerPetuAl cAlendArs

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atek Philippe is known for having produced some of the most complicated timepieces the world has ever seen. Among the many intricate horological complications that the Swiss brand offers, perhaps the one most associated with it is the perpetual calendar—which is also one of the most subtle yet immensely useful complications.

Before we continue, perhaps a primer on the perpetual calendar is in order. As the name suggests, this complication keeps track of the day, date, month and sometimes the phases of the moon too in perpetuity. Well, at least, a perpetual calendar watch would not need to be manually adjusted—mainly to take into account leap years which add an extra day to February—within our lifetime. Most perpetual calendars will remain correct until the year 2100 when the leap year is ignored (this is actually a little-known fact about the Gregorian calendar) and some will even remain accurate until the year 2400.

Now, the perpetual calendar is not an invention of Patek Philippe. That honor belongs to English watchmaker Thomas Mudge who created the first perpetual calendar watch—a pocket watch, actually— back in the 18th century. The Swiss brand, however, caught up in 1864 with its own perpetual calendar pocket watch. And in 1925, Patek Philippe became the first to create a perpetual calendar wristwatch.

In the decades to follow, the brand would become closely associated with perpetual calendar watches— especially perpetual calendar chronographs. And for sure, Patek Philippe has produced quite a few such timepieces that have become important milestones in

“A perpetual calendar watch would not need to be manually adjusted within our lifetime”

the history of the brand and watchmaking in general.

Here are some of the most prominent timepieces from this family...

The FirsT As mentioned earlier, the first perpetual calendar wristwatch that came out in 1925 was a Patek Philippe.

Interestingly, the movement used in the watch was actually made in 1898, albeit for a women’s pendant watch. The latter remained unsold for quite a while, so the brand put the movement—which, by the way, was quite compact—in a wristwatch. The resulting watch (No. 97 975, case No. 222 033) was sold in October 1927 to Thomas Emery, an American with an extensive Patek Philippe collection.

The watch is powered by the Caliber 12’’’ movement which is put inside a 34.4mm case in yellow gold—or vieil or, to be exact, which translates to “old gold.” It shows the day, date and month, and—naturally—takes into account leap years.

The FirsT series The first perpetual calendar wristwatch, however, was a one-off specimen. The first series-produced perpetual calendar timepiece from Patek Philippe was launched in 1941. This model, Ref. 1526, became particularly notable for setting the signature dial configurations used by later models, with two apertures showing the day and month in the upper half of the dial. The lower half, meanwhile, is dominated by the moon phase and date indicator on a sub-dial.

Powering the watch is the Caliber 12’’’-120 SC movement, which resides snugly in the 34mm yellow gold case. The minutes and hours hands are similarly in yellow gold, which contrasts nicely with the steel seconds hand and the silver dial.

PerPeTually Powered Fast forward 21 years and Patek Philippe released its first perpetual calendar watch powered by an automatic movement, in this case the Caliber 27-460. The watch, designated Ref. 3448, features not only a larger case at 37.5mm but also a revamped design. The lugs in particular were quite unlike anything seen at the time, what with its angular and sharp geometry.

Opposite page one of Patek Philippe’s newest perpetual calendar watches, the ref. 5320g

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“In the midst of the quartz crisis, Philippe Stern stood by his vision to develop a mechanically complicated watch with an extra-thin movement”

The ConTender Another memorable entry in Patek Philippe’s lineup of perpetual calendar watches is the Ref. 3940 from 1985.

The watch was famously powered by the caliber 240 & PQ self-winding movement, which is also one of the thinnest movements in the world. This was a truly refined timepiece that obviously came from a truly refined brand.

More than that, however, the Ref. 3940 also marked a defining moment for Patek Philippe. The watch was launched in the midst of the quartz crisis, when few—if any—watches with complications were being produced.

Still, Philippe Stern, Father of current CEO Thierry Stern, stood by his vision to develop a complicated mechanical watch with an extra-thin movement. The result of this initiative, the caliber 240, was launched in 1977 for the

Golden Eclipse before it was then adapted to perpetual calendar watches. As the story goes, the Ref. 3940 was Philippe Stern’s watch of choice.

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One final bit of trivia for the 3448: While the majority of specimens come in either yellow or white gold, there are some very rare variants of this timepiece. There is at least one known example of the watch in rose gold along with two known specimens in platinum.

Furthermore, there is also the watch known as the “Unique Patek Philippe 3448,” which was made for Alan Banbery (a notable figure in Patek Philippe’s history) and had the moon phase display replaced by a leap year indicator. Finally, there are a number of 3448 Senza Luna watches which has intrigued horology enthusiasts for decades due to their mysterious origins. But that is a story for another time.

For PerPeTuiTy This year, the lineage comes full circle with the new Ref. 5320G. For one, the watch showcases all the hallmarks of Patek Philippe, with a strong nod to the brand’s aesthetics of the 1940s and 1950s. There are, of course, the day and month apertures on the upper half of the dial. Then there’s the moon phase display and date indicator on the lower half. What might not be immediately apparent is the small day/night indicator located between 7 and 8 o’clock along with a leap year cycle positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock.

The 40mm case comes in white gold, while the dial is brass with a cream-colored lacquer. The latter, in particular, affects a vintage appearance and definitely resonates with longtime fans of the brand. Other notable nods to the past include the three-tiered lugs inspired by the Ref. 2405 which was launched in the 1950s, as well as the baton-like hands that take after the Ref. 1463 chronograph. Beneath this layer of nostalgia, the Ref. 5320G is powered by the latest advances in watchmaking, featuring, for instance, Patek Philippe’s Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring.

All in all, the Ref. 5320G beautifully wraps up an amazing chapter in Patek Philippe’s ongoing history— one of timepieces that will keep the time, perpetually.

day, month, leap year and day/ night disks on a movement Opposite page, clockwise from top left Patek Philippe’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch; ref. 1526, the brand’s first series-produced perpetual calendar; ref. 3940, which was released in the middle of the quartz crisis; ref. 3448, the first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar watch powered by an automatic movement

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Joezer Mandagi visits oMega’s Manufacture at villeret and the faMed Metas testing facility

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he origin and history of storied brands like Omega are always interesting to delve into.

And particularly for Omega, anyone can visit its museum, which is situated just across the brand’s headquarters in Biel/Bienne in Switzerland. There we can see everything from the actual workbench of Louis Brandt, the famous Omega movement that would lend its name to the brand to the watches worn by NASA astronauts.

But as intriguing as the past can be, it is what the brand is working on that keeps enthusiasts constantly excited. Luckily, I had the opportunity to see the past, present and future of Omega.

Up in the MoUntains One sunny Swiss day, I found myself on the road to Villeret, a municipality at the foot of Mount Chasseral and cradle of various brands in the 18th century. I was there to visit Omega’s manufacture where “the life of an Omega watch begins.”

At first, the facility felt very industrial, even cold and unemotional. But it just appears so when compared to the idyllic valley with its picturesque villages and snowcapped mountaintops visible through the windows.

Omega’s manufacture, however, was a cutting edge facility, with clean, brightly-lit hallways and climatecontrolled (plus clinically clean) production lines.

The human touch, however, was still very prevalent in the production process of an Omega watch. It is just that technology is increasingly employed to maximize efficiency. For one, the work desks seen in rows upon

rows in the clean rooms are connected by an automated system that would automatically deliver unfinished movements on special trays to wherever the next step of assembly would occur. The system employs RFID tags (which is also used in, for example, e-passports) to keep track of each movement’s position in the production process and where it will need to go to next.

One particularly interesting station was the one where the mainsprings were put in place. Here, one could clearly see the moment a watch (still just an incomplete movement at this moment) comes to life.

From here on end until the watch is finished, it will not stop ticking. Despite the glare of the overhead lights and the seemingly unemotional routine performed by the men and women in unflattering cleanroom suits, the moment was definitely magical.

Forward to the FUtUre The manufacture at Villeret impressively showcased the extent of Omega’s know-how and production capabilities. It is at the METAS testing facility in Omega’s headquarters in Bienne, however, that the brand demonstrated how it will push boundaries—and how it already has done so.

Some background info before we continue: Several years ago, Omega introduced the world’s first Master Chronometer watch, which involves a stringent set of tests done with the approval and under the watchful eye of METAS. So, while the testing for Master Chronometer certification is carried out by Omega employees, the process is audited by METAS staff.

The Omega manufacture at Villeret Opposite page Water resistance and magnetic testing at the METAS lab

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The first room I saw was where magnetic resistance tests are carried out on new movements. Essentially, a Master Chronometer watch can retain its accuracy after being subjected to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 Gauss—roughly equivalent to an MRI machine.

Naturally, I asked why Omega has set such a mindbogglingly high standard. The answer, unsurprisingly, was a proud “Because we’re Omega!”

After the chuckles died down, our tour guide recounted a story of an Omega customer who complained about his watch regularly losing time.

So, they brought the watch to their service center, demagnetized it (which is part of the SOP), serviced it and returned it. But after a short while the customer came back with the same complaint. After this went on several times, the Omega staff learned that the man would routinely put his watch in his gym bag and then drive to and from the gym in his Tesla, with the bag sitting close to one of the car’s electric motors—which, of course, contained a powerful magnet. Upgrading to a Master Chronometer watch (a Globemaster, if memory serves me right) solved the problem.

The point was: We are now surrounded by increasingly powerful magnets and magnetic fields: Everything from the magnetic clasp of a bag, smartphones, speakers (another story involved a watch owner who regularly rested his Omega on top of his home theater’s uber-powerful speakers), anti-theft detectors at department stores, etc. Suddenly, “magnetic resistance to fields of up to 15,000 gauss” starts sounding reasonable.

As hinted at earlier, this cutting edge testing process was done right across the road from the Omega Museum, which I also had the opportunity to see. So, on one side of the street we have the brand’s meticulously curated and preserved past; on the other, we see how it makes leaps and bounds forward. If anything, this juxtaposition perfectly encapsulated what Omega is all about.

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“On one side of the street we have the brand’s meticulously preserved past; on the other, we see how it leaps forward”

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Time Takes Its Time T

his year, Swiss watch brand Longines celebrates its 185th anniversary. In other words, it has 185 years’ worth of history that has culminates in the brand’s current position as the fourth biggest watch brand in the world that is slowly but surely edging into the number three slot. And all of that history is immaculately preserved, curated and presented in the Longines Museum in Saint-Imier.

What’s in a name?

the livre d’établissage at the longines Museum Opposite page the lindbergh Hour Angle Watch

Now, Saint-Imier is a small town that almost perfectly fits the stereotypical image of a Swiss town set on the slopes of a deep valley. Animal husbandry is still a large part of the local economy, so dairy farms and cows are just about everywhere. And then, in the middle of this quaint picture, you have a modern factory complex (which traces its roots all the way back to 1867). More importantly, this place was once called “long fields,” or, in the local French, “es longines.”

The Longines Museum is part of the complex and, just like in any other respectable museum, is designed to afford visitors an immersive experience with a carefully laid-out route covering the brand’s journey through the ages. I must admit, that the journey to the museum itself was quite the experience, as winding roads through the mountains suddenly gave way to the lush valley and its open (and long) fields.

An even more eye-opening experience was the first room that I was shown to, just past entrance.

It was a small room lined with hundreds of leather-

bound registers. These contain entries for every single watch made by the brand up to 1969, when modern bookkeeping took over. “It’s called, in French, livre d’établissage,” says Walter von Känel, CEO of Longines, in an interview several days after my visit to the museum. “There they wrote the date, the number, the calibre, the reference number, the watchmaker who signed it and the first customer.”

“I was lucky that my predecessor didn’t throw this away,” von Känel added later. “They respected the heritage, and so do we.”

adventure and elegance All in all, the museum was divided into six different sections. The first two, named Agassiz and Francillon, tell the story of the brand’s origin and its two most influential figures: Auguste Agassiz (founder of the brand) and Ernest Francillon (Agassiz’ nephew who established the brand’s factory and therefore its stature as a manufacturing powerhouse). The other four segments are called Tradition Horlogère, Aventure, Sport, Publicité and Élégance.

A particularly intriguing display in the Tradition Horlogère section is an enormous wall-mounted display containing the various calibres produced by Longines until this day. The display features a moveable magnifier that allows visitors to observe the details and minutiae of every single movement.

Moving on, the museum showcased Longines’ role in the age of naval exploration and aviation. The extent of the brand’s expertise in navigation equipment was

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The rich and someTimes whimsical hisTory of longines is well preserved in iTs fascinaTing museum. Joezer mandagi reporTs from sainT-imier, swiTzerland

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“The extent of the brand’s expertise in navigation equipment was displayed in all its glory, including a display dedicated to Charles Lindbergh” displayed in all its glory, from pieces worn by renowned explorers such as Roald Amundsen and Amelia Earhart to a display dedicated to Charles Lindbergh and his famed transatlantic journey with the Spirit of St. Louis.

After adventure on the high seas and the open skies, the theme switched to sports. Since 1878, Longines has produced increasingly accurate equipment that would separate champions and runner-ups. There’s a model of early broken-wire systems (triggered when a runner literally broke a wire placed across the finish line), to the first chronographs used at racecourses in 1881 and photo-finish equipment from the 1950s. It was also interesting to note that Longines’ involvement in the world of sports didn’t end when digital timekeeping became common. In fact, the brand had chalked up quite a bit of experience in F1 racing and remains an official partner in a number of classic competitions.

Nearing the end of my tour of the museum, I came to a small corner lined with various advertisements used by the brand throughout the years. These ranges from illustrated posters to photo campaigns featuring such timeless icons like Audrey Hepburn during her heydays.

A small screen, meanwhile, played video advertisements from the past. The old animated clips were definitely interesting, while the droning black-and-white commercials were full of nostalgia. But none of those could beat the tongue-in-cheek parodies of early James Bond Movies, complete with menacing villains, alluring damsels and a dashing hero.

This nostalgic corner sat side-by-side with a section displaying more modern collections and campaign imagery starring the long list of Longines’ brand ambassadors such as Andre Agassi and Kate Winslet.

The contrast between the old and the new—and the progress that it implies—perfectly encapsulates the brand’s recipe for success.

a PersPective time Personally, however, what really put the whole trip through the Longines Museum in perspective was something that Claude Jaunin, the brand’s now-retired regional sales manager for Asia Pacific. We were standing in the Aventure section, near a huge automated hourglass—a natural resting point as just about every guest to the museum would definitely take the time to see the hourglass strike the hour and flip over.

As we stood there waiting, Mr. Jaunin turned to me and said: “You know, time takes its time.” Perhaps it was an observation of the futility of “wishing” the hourglass to turn sooner; perhaps he was reminiscing of his time with the brand that, at the time, was about to come to its conclusion. Whatever prompted it, his comment that “time takes it time” really struck a chord with me. Innovation and breakthroughs are the things that elevate a brand. But for one to survive for nearly two centuries, taking the time—to do things properly, to preserve ones history—is paramount. And indeed, Longines knows how to take its time.

A corner of the museum dedicated to Charles Lindbergh Opposite page clockwise Various equipment designed

by Longines for time measurement in sports; vintage advertisements and commercials

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Cradle of Great Chronographs DAMAncaliber | 2017

Chris Andre wAlks down memory lAne of where the el Primero movement by Zenith wAs first born

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he history of Zenith’s manufacture is a bit like a fairytale. Comprising 18 blocks in total, the site feels like a big mansion where warmth and smiles are the order of the day rather than cold, hard steel. The fact that Le Locle, where the manufacture resides, is one of the quietest towns in Switzerland also gives the facility that the charming vibes of a small, sleepy town. And it is also funny to notice how many watch brands become neighbors in that stretch of the Jura mountains.

The Zenith manufacture itself has been around for more than a century—it was established back in 1910—and is also certified as a UNESCO heritage site.

As I walk up to the main entrance, the facade of some the buildings bear vivid red bricks forming the initials “G.F.J” and the brand name “Zenith” below the rows of windows. The former stands for “George Favre-Jacot,” the original founder who, although he broke away under his own name in 1865, eventually took on his most successful movement called “Zenith” as his company’s trademark (starting from 1911). In a world where most watch brands derive from a person’s surname, Zenith dared to be different.

That attitude has also kept the company going even after some of the worst crises. The manufacture stores all the proof of how dedicated Zenith is in creating the best movement throughout many past decades. Watch fanatics may already be familiar with the El Primero chronograph movement, but there’s so much more to discover as one delves deeper into the incredible maze of this manufacture.

The hisToric DecaDes It took around four decades for Zenith’s founder, FavreJacot, to assemble all of the 18 blocks. Each serves a different purpose, but all uniformly face the south in order to get the best sunlight during the day—since there was no electricity back then. The launch of the El Primero back in 1959 heralded the golden days of the manufacture as other reputable brands began to employ the movement for their own chronographs. The reason for it is simple: It was the first movement to have an integrated chronograph that ran at a frequency of 36,000 VPH (for a greater precision) and also runs with a column wheel (instead of the more common cam system—again for better precision and functionality).

Such a mechanical innovation in horology, nonetheless, found its biggest threat in the rise of another Swiss creation for modern watches in 1970s: quartz movements. The Japanese, in particular, took the cue and mass-produced it, which revolutionized the global watch industry and shook many Swiss giants, including Zenith.

Zenith Radio Corporation, an American company with a similar trademark, acquired the Le Locle brand in 1971 in order to solely produce quartz movements.

The U.S.-based management went further by asking to destroy all the stamping tools that were vital in the production of mechanical components. Such a decision would have terminated Zenith, the brand that we all know today, if not for Charles Vermot, one of the senior engineers at the manufacturer, who decided to go against the rules. Instead of chucking them out, he hid

The El Primero automatic chronograph Opposite page Old stamping tools

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the stamping tools and the movement sketches in the attic in 1974. Almost half a decade later, the company was given back to Swiss proprietors who managed to settle Zenith back to its mechanical roots.

in The 21sT cenTury

One of Zenith’s workshops Opposite page clockwise the facade of the manufacture and watchmakers tinkering with movements

Zenith’s historical roots are alive and well at the modern-day manufacture. The aforementioned attic has been preserved almost exactly as it was before, stocked with age-old stamping tools and drawings worthy of a major display in any museum of horology.

Unlike those sketches of the past, the production of the brand’s 21st century mechanical timepieces now involve digital rendering and 3D printing for the prototypes. At the Design & Development block, the engineers are busy perfecting little details that will mostly go unseen. One example shown during my visit is the changing numbers on a date display complication.

For even such a simple complication, the brand insists on thorough inspection of how fast it goes and how precise the dates shift, since effects of the smallest disruption would accumulate. While savoring this rare presentation, I noticed how quiet the manufacture is, which allowed the engineers to concentrate deeply as they tinkered with the mechanical conceptions.

The great legacy of Charles Vermot came to light in the next hall: the Mechanical department. To this very day, watch components—like baseplates, bridges and so on—are produced using stamping tools. While many are

done using machines (24-hour CNC machines), some still rely on manual labor. The process is deceivingly simple: Put a brass plate on a stamping panel and then press the head stamp to precisely cut the desired component. Of course, for a proper watch component, the workers need to finely polish the edges and clean it through. A number of the stamping tools are uniquely made for Zenith’s watch components (especially for high-end pieces like the Academy Christophe Colomb watch), which explains why every tool is precious.

One of the last production blocks is the pre-assembly and assembly section. From jewel settings for the movement to the product testing and decoration, every activity demands absolute concentration. The latter, moreover, may consist of creating perlage (a repetitive circular pattern on the surface of a movement) to polishing the components’ edges. While these tasks would require exceptional eyesight, another important task relies on a different set of senses. The fast beat of the El Primero makes a distinctive pulsating sound, and specially trained engineers will actually listen to it to ensure consistency. Aside from the El Primero, they also measure the frequency of the Elite movement.

With over 250 people working at the manufacture, Zenith has now been able to churn out around 50,000 movements per year. That doesn’t yet include the newly introduced El Primero 21 and more innovations to come. And we are, I’m sure, still only scratching at the surface of it all.

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“The Zenith manufacture itself has been around for more than a century and is certified as a UNESCO heritage site”

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Sneakers, shirts, suits, swag—you name it, we’ve got it. A biannual issue dedicated to men’s styling and fashion, DA MAN Style is here to help you look your best this season. From the must-have items to in-depth reportage from the world’s most anticipated runway shows, the exclusive content also includes interviews with leading designers and the hottest models of today. Get your DAMAN Style now!

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Women’s Watches 156 A Girl’s Best Friend DiamonDs anD other precious stones are still the surest way to make a statement timepiece

162 Moonphase as a timekeeping function of rare precision, the beauty of the moonphase lies beyonD the stars

160 Double-wrap Straps there’s something essentially fashionable with Double straps wrapping arounD the wrist

gem-setting at Jaeger-lecoultre’s manufacture

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A Girl’s Best Friend DiamonDs anD other precious stones are still the surest way to make a statement timepiece

RING OF FIRE Cartier Trait d’Eclat

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Cartier’s Trait d’Eclat is undoubtedly a remarkably elegant and beautifully crafted timepiece. With its wave-like slender design and remarkable deep red rubies juxtaposed with diamond baguettes, the Trait d’Eclat is named after the unique gleam of the rubies, which comes out as deep red and orangey-pink. This unique shimmer, which is described to as a flash of fire or “Trait d’Eclat”—hence the name of the piece, is a result of 15 oval Mozambican rubies weighing a total of 24.93 carats. It is purposely curved in a way that combines two beloved Cartier themes: rubies and CAse mAteRiAl: White gold ribbons. Inside the fiery hue of the rubies lies the DiAl: diamond-Paved teardrop shaped watch with a diamond-paved stRAp: White gold and PreCious stones dial. The piece is supported with Cartier’s famed movement: Calibre 101, movement, the manually-wound Caliber 101. manual

All the Rage

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage

The name says it all. The Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage is the third and final design in the trilogy of one-of-a-kind haute joiallerie timepieces—after 2015’s Diamond Punk and 2016’s Diamond Fury. It is made up of 18K white gold pieces and is available in two versions: with diamonds or blue sapphires. Each watch features 48 spikes ranging from 29.3mm to 40mm designed to mimic icicles. In total, the Diamond Outrage Sapphire features 11,043 brilliant-cut sapphires weighing in at 65.47 carats.

The diamond-encrusted version features 9,923 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 50.06 carats, with an additional 354 baguette-cut diamonds weighing CAse size: 34mm CAse mAteRiAl: 18K White gold 15.85 carats. The Diamond entirely set With diamonds DiAl: mirror Polished Outrage features a quartz watch stRAp: 18K White gold entirely set With diamonds between the spikes that is driven by movement: Calibre 2701, Quartz the Caliber 2701 movement. poweR ReseRve: 39h

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FINDING TREASURE Van Cleef & Arpels Heure Marine

the Anatomy of a Flower Chanel Première Camélia Skeleton

Chanel made quite the mark last year by debuting the Monsieur de Chanel, the brand’s first watch developed exclusively for men. It contained the brand’s first in-house movement, the Calibre 1. This year, as Chanel commemorates the 30th anniversary of its première watch series, the brand presented the second in-house caliber in a range of timepieces that’s designed exclusively for women. Named the Calibre 2, the movement is constructed to resemble the shape of the camellia flower, which the watch is named after. The series includes one model boasting 387 baguettecut diamonds and 563 brilliantCAse size: 37 x 28.5 mm CAse mAteRiAl: 18K White cut diamonds that weigh in a total gold With diamonds DiAl: 18K White gold sKelof 22.66 carats. This octagonaleton set With diamonds shaped jewelry watch—which stRAp: 18K White gold braCelet set With diamonds is designed as a reference to the movement: Chanel manufaCture Calibre 2 Camelia Place Vendôme—is limited to sKeleton, manual poweR ReseRve: 48h only 12 pieces.

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Inspired by the beauty of the sea, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Heure Marine “secret” watch is immersed in an extensive range of gems like pear-shaped and baguette-cut diamonds, emeralds, onyx and a bufftopped baguette-cut and cabochon-cut sapphire.

But truly, all eyes will go straight to the two Sri Lankan sugar loaf-cut sapphires at the edge of the piece that weighs in a total of 27.34 carats. These two, in turn, are further embellished with two rows of buff-topped sapphires that flawlessly highlight the delicate shape of the piece. At the top, the bracelet depicts a treasure chest that hugs the curve of the wrist. When opened, the dial CAse mAteRiAl: White gold DiAl: White gold With is revealed in all its glory, from mother-of-Pearl its white gold base inlaid with stRAp: gold and PreCious stones mother-of-pearl and a cabochon movement: manualsapphire at 12 o’clock.

Winding meChaniCal

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the metamorphosis Bulgari The New Serpenti

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One of the most, if not the most, exciting addition to Bulgari’s extensive Serpenti collection this year is the interchangeable straps feature. Dubbed the New Serpenti, the straps are made from Karung leather which feels smooth and soft against the skin. The leather is available in five different colors (black, red, white, green and chestnut brown) and with every purchase you’ll get an additional strap in Karung leather or, if you prefer, calfskin leather. The latter is available in six different colors (sapphire blue, agate white, ruby red, sandy beige, black and emerald green). Both straps have a double wrap-around feature that exquisitely matches the curved case of the watch, which is also available in various options. You can opt CAse size: 27mm for a steel or a pink gold case, CAse mAteRiAl: steel or with or without diamonds. rose gold DiAl: green, red, White, blaCK All in all, it is a truly exciting stRAp: Karung or CalfsKin leather and playful addition to the movement: b033, Quartz wAteR ResistAnCe: 50m Serpenti collection, indeed.

ANYPLACE, ANYTIME, ANYWHERE

Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Star Chronograph White

Highly distinguishable by its metallic pink-gold Monogram flower at 6’oclock, The Tambour Moon Star Chronograph white is the feminine counterpart to Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Moon series. With the launch of the Moon collection, Louis Vuitton also unveiled its interchangeable straps feature. From different colors, patterns to different materials, there are currently no less than thirty strap models for both men and women—and there’s a lot more to come. It is also worth mentioning that the interchangeable straps are compatible with all Tambour models regardless of size. From CAse size: 35mm CAse mAteRiAl: stainless rubber to alligator straps, it’s steel hard to run out of options with DiAl: glossy White stRAp: rubber, leather Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Moon movement: Quartz Interchangeable Straps. wAteR ResistAnCe: 50m

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these timepieces allow you to mix anD match their straps to better fit your style anD personality

THE GLOBAL LEGEND

velvet Dreams

Hublot Big Bang One Click Italia Independent

Combining black ceramic, diamonds and velvet together into a fine elegant timepiece, Hublot’s Big Bang One Click Italia Independent is truly the watch to wear at swanky events and parties. The design of the watch recalls the visual codes of its masculine predecessor: The Big Bang Unico. Talking of which, the Big Bang One Click Italia Independent is the first ladies watch ever for Hublot and Italia Independent since their partnership started in 2014. The “one click” in the name refers to the button on the lugs, which, when pressed, will separate the watch from its strap. The CAse size: 39mm CAse mAteRiAl: Polished watch is available in three colors (dark blue, blaCK CeramiC blue and purple) and comes with a strap in DiAl: blue velvet, darK blue velvet, PurPle velvet matching colors. Every watch is embellished stRAp: rubber and velvet movement: hub1710 Calibre, with 42 diamonds on the bezel and 10 on automatiC poweR ReseRve: 50hr the dial, giving this exquisite timepiece a wAteR ResistAnCe: 100m sparkling shimmer amidst its dark hue. limiteD: 100PCs eaCh

It’s hard not to notice Cartier’s legendary Tank watch. With its geometrical style that seamlessly blends in with the strap, Cartier’s Tank has been constantly reinterpreted ever since its creation in 1916. This year, Cartier unveiled its most colorful twist on the legendary Tank watch by giving it an interchangeable straps feature. Available in a multitude of colors including black, white, gray, navy blue, fuchsia pink, green, orange and many more, this feature is available for the small and large model of the Tank Solo watch as well as the Ronde Solo De Cartier model. Like any classic Tank Solo or Ronde Solo watch, each piece features a stainless steel case, roman numerals on the dial, blued-steel swordCAse size: 31 mm x 24.4 mm, 34.8 mm x 27.4 mm shaped hands and a CAse mAteRiAl: steel beaded crown set with DiAl: silvered light oPaline stRAp: CalfsKin leather a synthetic cabochonmovement: Quartz shaped spinel. wAteR ResistAnCe: 30m

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Cartier Interchangeable Straps

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there’s something essentially fashionable with Double straps wrapping arounD the wrist

FEARLESS FEMALE Baume & Mercier Petite Promesse

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Dedicated to embody the accomplished, ambitious and independent woman, Baume & Mercier’s Petite Promesse comes with a strong stainless steel case and a double wrap-around strap symbolizing success and charisma. This model is actually a modern rendition of Baume & Mercier’s classic wristwatches created during the 1920s. On the more aesthetic side, the watch is embellished with 0.18 carat diamonds on the bezel and two stones set at 6 and 12 o’clock.

CAse size: 22mm The Petite Promesse collection CAse mAteRiAl: steel also includes variants with blue or DiAl: mother-of-Pearl stRAp: steel orange calfskin straps for those movement: Quartz who are ever playful at heart. wAteR ResistAnCe: 50 m

snake Charmer Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas

Whether you want a double, triple or even quintuple wrap-around strap, Bulgari has got you covered with its latest Serpenti Tubogas collection. Unlike the previous Tubogas timepiece, the strap adopts a new finish in steel or gold and steel. For the double-wrap steel and gold version, the watch features an 18K rose gold bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The crown is set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite that gives the piece a dainty sparkle. The dial is silver opaline dial guilloche engraving that is expertly juxtaposed with the rose gold hands and numerals. The timepiece is driven by a quartz movement and has a water resistance rating of 30 CAse size: 35 mm CAse mAteRiAl: steel meters. Altogether, another fine and DiAl: silver oPaline stRAp: rose gold and steel elegant timepiece from Bulgari’s movement: b033, Quartz wAteR ResistAnCe: 30m Serpenti collection.

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simply sleek Hermès Nantucket Acier

CANDY CRUSH

Dior La Mini D De Dior Wraparound If you’re looking for something bold, bright and luscious, then the La Mini D De Dior is a definitely a solid option for your consideration. For its newest appearance in 2017, the timepiece is introduced in a wraparound strap version and is made available in two bright candy colors: fluo pink and orange. The strap is made of a glossy patented calfskin leather that gives it a playful and fun edge. The dainty19mm case, meanwhile, is made of stainless steel and is inlaid with 71 brilliant round diamonds, most on the bezel and a few around the crown, for a total weight of 0.46 carats. The dial, meanwhile, is CAse size: 19mm CAse mAteRiAl: stainless steel infused with the same bright DiAl: fluo PinK or orange color as the strap, which stRAp: Patent CalfsKin leather contrasts nicely with the silver movement: Quartz polished dauphine hands. wAteR ResistAnCe: 30m

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Hermès introduced the world to the Nantucket watch back in 1991. Designed by Henri d’Origny, the timepieces are famed for their elongated case and slender figure with a distinctive “anchor chain” motif. This year, the Nantucket has been scaled down to a size that is a lot more faithful to the original. Named the Nantucket Très Petit Modèle, the case measures 17 x 23mm. It is available in a single-strap and double-wrap around version. For the latter, named the Nantucket Acier, the watch is completed with a calfskin strap in various colors including Natural Barenia, black, Maltese blue, Iris and many more. Every watch comes with an opaline silver-toned dial and Arabic numerals. It also has a steel pin CAse size: 17mm x 23mm CAse mAteRiAl: steel buckle and a clean design, something DiAl: White stRAp: CalfsKin that is very synonymous with the movement: Quartz wAteR ResistAnCe: 30m brand’s DNA.

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Homage to an icon

IWC Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36

DAMAncaliber | 2017

A ladies’ watch with a moon phase display is finally returning to the Da Vinci family, with the IWC Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 launched this year. With a diameter of 36 millimeters, a moon phase complication, a semicircular crown and its elegant materials, the Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 is virtually predestined to appeal to watch devotees with a passion for luxury and technical sophistication. The recessed inner circle, which adds a more pronounced threedimensional structure to the silver plated dial, emphasizes circularity as a design feature of the line.

Driven by the mechanical CAse size: 36mm CAse mAteRiAl: 18K red gold 35800-caliber automatic DiAl: silver Plated dial movement, the watch is stRAp: darK broWn alligator leather by santoni completed with 54 pure movement: Caliber 35800, automatiC white diamonds encircling poweR ReseRve: 42 hours wAteR ResistAnCe: 30m the stainless-steel model.

CHIC MASTERPIECE Baume & Mercier Promesse

For 2017, Baume & Mercier released the latest edition of the Promesse. This collection, by the way, was launched back in 2014.

Inspired by enchanting femininity and astrology, the new Promesse watch gives us a glimpse into the mystery behind the four phases of the moon, as each each chapter of the lunar phase is unveiled in all its glory right on the dial. In an exquisite modern twist, the moonphase drawing perfectly suits the blue lacquered dial. Of course, the aesthetic touches on the watch don’t stop there. Two rows of 15 diamonds are set across each other like two crescent moons to brighten up this starry night and highlight the dainty curves of the oval shaped bezel. This interplay of shapes has been the trademark of Promesse since its creation. With this CAse size: 34.4mm CAse mAteRiAl: diamondnew addition to the line, Baume & Mercier set steel continues to charm with its elegance and DiAl: blue shading laCQueres stRAp: alligator braCelet sophisticated designs that, quite literally, movement: Quartz embraces the heavens. wAteR ResistAnCe: 50m

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as a timekeeping function of rare precision, the beauty of the moonphase lies beyonD the stars

QUEEN OF THE NIGHT In 2017 Jaeger-LeCoultre writes a new chapter in the story of its Rendez-Vous collection of women’s timepieces. For the first time, the iconic moonphase feature adorns the newest models of the RendezVous collection. Named Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vouz Moon, the first appearance of rose gold in this exceptional 36mm timepiece is enhanced with the gem setting.

Its golden dial, burning with the brightness of a thousand fires, is the backdrop for a tender pearl moon and a watch that is feminine in the extreme. On the edge of the dial, the CAse size: 36mm star, one of the everCAse mAteRiAl: 18K PinK gold present signatures DiAl: golden satin-brushed stRAp: alligator leather in of the Rendez-Vous 18K PinK gold collection, offers a movement: JlC Caliber 935, automatiC discreet reminder of a poweR ReseRve: 40 hours future rendezvous. wAteR ResistAnCe: 30m

exquisitely Feminine Zenith Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase

In 2017, the Zenith Elite collection welcomes a new model housed within a case that is smaller than previous iterations: the Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase 33 mm, which beautifully combines technical excellence and timeless distinction. Fitted with the Elite Caliber 692 movement and a fluted crown enabling smooth moonphase adjustments, its exhibition case-back provides a chance to admire the mechanism powered by an oscillating weight adorned with CAse size: 33mm a Côtes de Genève motif. Surrounded CAse mAteRiAl: stainless steel or rose gold (With or Without by a diamond-set or polished bezel, the diamonds) DiAl: silver-toned sunraypure mother-of-pearl dial is graced with Patterned a star-studded deep blue moon disc. This stRAp: shiny broWn alligator leather new slim and feminine ladies’ watch will movement: elite Caliber 692, automatiC surely delight the hearts of women who poweR ReseRve: 50 hours wAteR ResistAnCe: 50m appreciate fine mechanisms.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vouz Moon

360 women's watches

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5

Pink Dials

regarDless of what is going on unDerneath the case, it is the Dial on the face of a watch that gives it its Distinct personality

EXPLOSION OF A STAR

DAMAncaliber | 2017

Bell & Ross Novarosa

Gemsetting Artistry at its Best

Patek Philippe Haute Joaillerie Calatrava Ref. 4899/900

When it comes to gem-setting, the ladies’ Ref. 4899 Haute Joaillerie wristwatch is an impressive manifestation of Patek Philippe’s ability to meld gem-setting and watchmaking artistry. This white-gold case from Patek Philippe sets an ideal stage for the precious stone settings with several staggered rows composed of 149 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds that alternate with 182 brilliant-cut rose sapphires with varying color intensities along the periphery. Needless to say, all the gems are mechanically set by master jewelers as specified by CAse size: 27.5mm the directives of the Patek Philippe CAse mAteRiAl: 18K White gold Seal. This watch combines finesse DiAl: natural mother of Pearl stRAp: alligator leather with the graceful elegance caliber movement: Caliber 240, automatiC 240 movement that celebrates its poweR: reserve 48 hours wAteR ResistAnCe: 30m 40th anniversary this year.

This year, Bell & Ross enriches its family of stellar watches with a new collection for women. Named the BR S Novarosa, this seductive and glamorous collection is inspired by the pink hues of supernova, the stars that explode in the vastness of space. With a quartz movement displaying hours, minutes, seconds and the date, the mechanism is designed to be practical and ensure user comfort. The steel case features a streamlined design inspired by the shape of the BR family and it belongs to the BR S collection, the smallest available and one that’s ideal for feminine wrists.

CAse size: 39mm With the stunning pink tone of the dial CAse mAteRiAl: satin Polished steel evoking supernovae and their striking DiAl: PinK sunray pink halos, this new watch is further stRAp: PinK alligator movement: br-Cal 102, completed with 66 sparkling round Quartz diamonds on the bezel. wAteR ResistAnCe: 100m

165

FIRST IMPRESSION TAG Heuer Link Lady

prestige and elegance Rolex Lady-Datejust 28

Ever since its launch in 1945, Rolex’s classic feminine watch, the Lady-Datejust 28, has become a byword for style and accurate timekeeping. Flaunting a fresh new look with a wide choice of dials and features, this new Lady-Datejust 28 comes equipped with the caliber 2236, a new-generation self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. The Lady Datejust also makes its debut for the first time in stainless steel and will have the same Stainless Steel Jubilee and Oyster bracelet options.

Bringing the heritage of timeless CAse size: 28mm elegance and functionality to life in CAse mAteRiAl: 904l steel a smaller package, this new model DiAl: PinK sunray stRAp: oyster braCelet of the Lady-Datejust 28 comes movement: manufaCture rolex 2236, automatiC with a gentle blushing pink dial that poweR ReseRve: 55 hours wAteR ResistAnCe: 100m adds a touch of femininity.

DAMAncaliber | 2017

At Baselworld 2017, TAG Heuer presented a reworked version of its legendary Link design.

Naturally, the design still revolved around the famous signature bracelet with S-shaped links. The Link actually dates back to 1987 and has long been famous for its immediately-recognizable bracelet as its defining feature. All in all, the Link has always been both an iconic design and also a standard bearer in terms of ergonomics and wearer comfort.

This time around, the dial of the watch is brought to life with either a navy blue sunray finish or mother of pearl delicately coated in a pink lacquer. With a date window at 3 o’clock and polished faceted indices or round-cut diamonds, it’s simply perfect for the lifestyle of the modern, active woman.

CAse size: 32mm CAse mAteRiAl: Polished steel Elegant, refined and instantly in 5n 18K rose gold recognizable, this new Link Lady DiAl pink: mother of Pearl stRAp: s-shaPed steel is, by far, the most feminine movement: Quartz watch from TAG Heuer. wAteR ResistAnCe: 100m

da index 167

BRM Pacific Place, Level GF +62 21 290 35916 Burberry Senayan City, Level GF +62 21 7278 2399/55 Baume & Mercier Available at @Time Plaza Indonesia, Level 2 +62 21 2992 4209 Bell & Ross Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12

Ben Sherman Plaza Indonesia, Level 2 +62 21 2992 4363 C Cartier Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 314 1916 Chopard Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 2992 4352 Calvin Klein Plaza Indonesia, Level 2 +62 21 2992 4091 D Diesel Plaza Indonesia, Level 2 +62 21 2992 4370 E Ermenegildo Zegna Pacific Place, Level GF +62 21 514 02768

F Frederique Constant Available at @Time Plaza Indonesia, Level 2 +62 21 2992 4209 H Hautlence Pacific Place, Level GF +62 21 290 35917 Hublot Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12 HYT Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12

I IWC Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12 J John Varvatos Available at Rococo The Men’s Store Plaza Indonesia, Level 3 +62 21 2992 4277 Jaeger-LeCoultre Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12 L Lanvin Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 2992 3758

Longines Plaza Senayan, Level 1 +62 21 5725214 M Massimo Dutti Plaza Indonesia, Level 2 +62 21 2992 4340 O Omega Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 2992 3732 P Panerai Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12 Prada Pacific Place, Level GF +62 21 5797 3830

S Sacoor Brothers Pacific Place, Level 1 +62 21 514 00499 T TAG Heuer Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 2992 3989 V Vacheron Constantin Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12 Z Zenith Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12

DAMAncaliber | 2017

B Breitling Available at The Time Place Plaza Indonesia, Level 1 +62 21 310 7715/12

da sexy back

DAMAncaliber | 2017

168

A Study in Complexity

Vacheron constantin presents its most complicated wristwatch yet

The Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, unveiled at this year’s SIHH fair, is, hands down, one of the most complicated wristwatches the world has ever seen. This one-of-a-kind watch features 23 different complications crammed into a movement that is just 8.7mm thick.

To properly showcase these 23 complications, the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 utilizes both its front and back. On the mainplate, we can see, among others, a perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator and an extra minute hand that shows the running equation of time.

It can be argued, however, that the back of the watch is even more aesthetically than the front, as it contains a translucent celestial chart of the Northern Hemisphere along with a tourbillon. As poetic as it may sound, it’s simply that easy to imagine yourself spending hours simply looking at this marvelous timepiece.