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The Grand Canyon The great American landscape

Antonio Mellino

The interview

Muscat Magic

Giraffe Manor

A jewel in the crown

Safari so good!

John Burton-Race

Rome’s Top Ten cafés

Globe-trotting chef

MOUTH-WATERING RECIPES TO TEMPT EVERY PALATE

VEGETARIAN MASTERCLASS Ireland

Juan Pablo Rey Nores

The Seychelles

Aroma therapy in the eternal city

Tofu

VOL 4 ISS 11

Cyprus

Why make coffee when you can

The new Nespresso Creatista lets you enjoy café-style quality coffee.

With a fully-automatic steam wand, you can now create perfectly textured milk set to your preferred temperature, at home.

Made by

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Editor Charlie Thompson Associate Editor Ali Ahmed Art Director Rebecca Teece Paye Art Editor Maggie Bonner Review Editor Mona Mohammed Online Editor Husain Khaled Social Media Editor Mary Ann Parungao Features Editor Nick Baines Consulting Editor Sarah Price Contributing Editor Adrian Back Contributing Editor Anthea Rowan Editor-at-Large Marie Barbieri Editor-at-Large Kevin Pilley Feature Correspondent Louise Quick Feature Correspondent Jesper Jensen Feature Correspondent Joe Worthington Director of Publishing Francesca Jackson Executive Director Salah Alhaiki Account Director Oliver Davies Editorial Enquiries editor@foodandtravelarabia.com Sales & Advertising sales@foodandtravelarabia.com General Enquiries info@foodandtravelarabia.com Food and Travel, UK Mark Sansom, editor mark.sansom@foodandtravel.com Food and Travel, Germany Stefanie Will, editor stefanie.will@foodandtravel.com Food and Travel, Mexico Cecilia Núñez, editor cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx Food and Travel, Turkey Mehmet Tel, editor mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr Food and Travel, Italy Marco Sutter, publisher publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com Food and Travel, Portugal Jose Fragoso, publisher jose.fragoso@foodandtravel.com.pt

WINNER PPA Independent Publishing Company of the Year

WINNER PPA Publisher of the Year Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green Pea Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. Food and Travel & Food and Travel Arabia are published under license from Turnstart Limited, a UK company. Gulf Publishing Ltd, a UK company and Gulf Digital WLL are the exclusive licensed agents for Food & Travel Arabia in the GCC under copyright of Green Pea Publishing. All rights of the licensed material belong to Turnstart Limited and may not be reproduced whether in whole or in part without its prior written consent.

The name “Food and Travel” is the property of Turnstart Limited. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the Publisher. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are not accepted and will not be returned

Taste the experience

Experience the taste

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n the Middle East, we are now amongst the world’s most adventurous travellers and gastronomers. Horizons are broad, tastes eclectic.

Every month, Food and Travel Arabia brings these two naturally complimentary interests together in a single magazine. Food and Travel Arabia is about adventure, the quest for new foods and new flavours, and the discovery of new places and new friends.

Our best travel and food writers have been briefed to search the world for exciting destinations, the latest restaurants and the finest cooking. The result is award winning editorial covering the world’s favourite pastimes food, drink and travel. Every month we get up close and personal with some of the region’s kitchen favourites to talk seasonal produce and personal culinary development, inspiration and of course key interviews. Our expert team seeks out gastronomic gems in some of the world’s most exciting destinations marrying food and travel in beautifully photographed features to whet your appetite. Get the low down on the latest in haute cuisine with expert opinion and insights from some of the world’s most talented award winning and Michelin Starred chefs. Read honest and independent hotel and restaurant reviews from around the region and around the world; Recreate the chefs’ favourite dishes at home from our detailed recipe section and follow the progress of your favourite restaurant, hotel or destination throughout the year in the Food and Travel GCC Awards.

Bon Appétit

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November 2017 ARRIVALS 8

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News This month we visit the region’s latest places to stay and eat The Food and Travel Awards It’s that time – discover who has made the final expert judging round of the 2018 Awards

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The interview Antonio Mellino, with more than 40 years’ experience and two Michelin stars, he had earned a reputation as one of the finest exponents of Italian food Chef talk Juan Pablo Rey Nores, Head Chef Gaucho Dubai tells us how he made the move from front of house to the kitchen The last word John BurtonRace, the globetrotting chef found home in Devon, by way Asia, France and the Middle East

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Aroma therapy in the eternal city Rome is full of amazing art and architecture... and great coffee shops. Food and Travel has found ten top spots to get your perfect caffeine fix

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Muscat magic A visit to one of jewels of Oman; The Chedi

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Mountain high Luxury on the peaks - Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort

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Your own little piece of Paradise The Seychelles; white powdery sand, balmy waters, verdant green mangroves and the warm embrace of a golden sun!

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Nicosia Cyprus Discover a city steeped in history, rich in culture and with a passion for food

Hershey railway A tour of Cuba’s only electric railroad

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Gaucho Dubai Fine dining Argentinian style

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Places to eat Celebrate Thai style, enjoy Cuban fusion in Bahrain, savour seafood in Bali and visit a clandestine Kensington classic

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Places to stay Maldivian luxury, creative cool in Miami, London chic, live like a Sultan in Dubai, and pamper yourself in Cambodia

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Sláinte! Anthea Rowan take us on culinary journey to visit a few of the Emerald Isle’s latest Michelin-starred eateries and more

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River Deep, Canyon High Between Arizona and Nevada, the grand American landscape showcases carving canyons, picturesque lakes and imposing dams

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DESTINATIONS Safari, so good Giraffe Manor sounds like something out of a fairy tale: magical, enchanting and just past the realms of possibility. And yet it’s very real indeed

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The pantry We discover tasty recipes for tofu and the delights of the sweet potato

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Vegetarian masterclass Celebrate World Vegetarian Day with mouth-watering recipes to tempt every palate

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Recipes This month’s collection of mouth-watering recipes for you to try at home

TRIED & TASTED

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he world-renowned Monte Carlo Jazz Festival is now in its 12th year and is a celebration of both up and coming talents and the biggest names in jazz; hosting the greatest musicians of the current era, the most celebrated contemporary jazz voices and the all-time greatest soloists for the opening night, the Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival 2017 has chosen musical legend Marcus Miller, who will present extracts from his brand-new album; sharing the bill with Cory Henry & The Funk Apostles. From Tuesday to Saturday, the greatest jazz artists of our time will take to the stage to entertain and inspire, with talents including Stacey Kent, Dhafer Youssef, Chick Corea and Steve Gadd with their project The Corea / Gadd Band. As always, the Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival also offers the opportunity to discover the jazz stars of tomorrow’s, such as the fabulously feminine trio Sirius Plan, James Carter’s Elektrik Outlet and thrilling new faces including Laurent Coulondre. The festival will close with Scott Bradlee’s Postmodern Jukebox, and The Puppini Sisters, considered the best close harmony group in the world. To discover more about packages and special offers visit: www. montecarlosbm.com/luxurytrip-monaco/luxur y-hotelpackages

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Monte Carlo Jazz festival Monaco 8

FOOD & TRAVEL

Arrivals NEWS Q’S BAR DUBAI

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE LOUNGE Dubai If you are a lover of afternoon tea then prepare yourself for a rare treat at the Address Boulevard, where you will be greeted by welcome drinks and delicious mini fruit tarts which are just a precursor for what is to come. Set in the luxurious surroundings of The Lounge afternoon tea is served the Address Boulevard’s own inimitable way; a beautifully crafted mini-chest of drawers filled with four layers of decadent delights. The first layer offers sinful pleasures of sweets and chocolate caviar. The second layer offers exciting sandwiches such as salmon or Bresaola, and for Burrata lovers, mini versions set to tempt any palate. Of course, no traditional afternoon tea would be complete without freshly baked scones and lashings of cream and succulent jams. Choose from a selection of teas and coffees to accompany your perfect afternoon.

Afternoon Tea is served from 2:30pm to 6pm, daily. Priced at $39pp, for reservations or more information contact +971 4 888 3444 or email dine@ emaar.com

With a stellar career spanning six decades, music legend Quincy Jones has worked with some of world’s greatest artistes, including Frank Sinatra, Amy Winehouse, Ray Charles, Whitney Houston, Chaka Khan and of course, Michael Jackson. His haul of awards is unparalleled with twenty-seven Grammys, seven Academy Award nominations, an Emmy, a Tony, and induction into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame; and now you can share his legacy in the intimate setting of Q’s Bar and Lounge at Palazzo Versace Dubai. Starting October 31 through January 6 2018, Q’s welcomes Eli Teplin, a classically trained musician, songwriter, who began performing in Nashville and then Los Angeles after being discovered and signed by Quincy Jones; the next musical resident at Q’s. The talented 25-year-old singer-songwriter draws inspiration from the likes of John Mayer, Brian Wilson, Bruce Hornsby and Billy Joel, whilst following his own style of music. Visit the intimate living-room space at Q’s; deep plush furniture and dark mahogany tables surround the small stage.

Savour some of Dubai’s best comfort food inspired by the culinary heritage of New York and New Orleans, along with an extensive selection of rare beverages as you kick-back and enjoy the many talents of some of the world’s most gifted musicians.

Q’s is open Tuesday to Saturday from 7pm until 2am.

For more information call +971 4 556 8865 or visit palazzoversacedubai.com

YSL & Royal Mansour Marrakech A museum devoted to the work of the legendary fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent recently opened its doors to the public in Marrakech. To celebrate, Royal Mansour is offering a special YSL Museum Package, which includes a two night stay in a Superior Riad, a fine-dining experience at La Grande Table Marocaine and complimentary access to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Berber Museum and famous Jardin Majorelle. Situated on Rue Yves Saint Laurent, beside the renowned Jardin Majorelle, the new YSL Museum houses an important selection from the Fondation Pierre Berg – Yves Saint Laurent’s impressive collection, which comprises 5,000 items of clothing, 15,000 haute couture accessories as well as tens of thousands of sketches and assorted objects. If you would like to extend the experience and discover more about the legendary designer, Royal Mansour can arrange a private guided tour of the beautiful Villa Oasis, shared by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berg, for a donation of $2,550 to the Yves Saint Laurent Foundation. The Royal Mansour YSL package starts from $2,760 per stay, including two nights in a Superior One-Bedroom Riad (1,500sqft) for two people, daily breakfast served at La Table or in your room. The offer also includes free access to YSL Museum, Berber Museum and Majorelle Gardens, a dinner at La Grande Table Marocaine, fast track service upon arrival and departure at Marrakech Airport, and private transfers from and to Marrakech Airport. The offer is valid until 27th December 2017. For more information visit www.royalmansour. com or call +212 529 80 80 80

CAVALLI CLUB DUBAI Cavalli Club has launched a new menu created by talented Italian chef Francesco Pescatore, which is set to elevate the dining experience at Cavalli to a new level. The new menu includes dishes such as octopus, pumpkin and pecorino sauce, crab ravioli, peas and cherry tomato, black truffle risotto, slow cooked lamb saddle, polenta and sautéed baby vegetables, black cod, smoked celeriac pure and extra virgin olive oil foam, sous-vide duck breast, beetroot mash and girolle mushrooms, Tomahawk of Wagyu beef, and simple classics such as whole lobster served plain grilled or perhaps with a salad or risotto; and of course a delightful choice of your favourite Italian desserts. The club will also play host to some of the best entertainment in the region. The Midnight Brunch Dinner show on Sundays and Wednesday’s Midnight Brunch Rosay Edition will include live entertainment whilst you enjoy a delightful meal. dubai.cavalliclub.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Arrivals NEWS

Great British Street Party Dubai DUKES Dubai is set to bring the traditional Great British Street Party to Palm Jumeirah on November 18. Union Jack flags will be flying throughout the resort and two giant tables, measuring 1,000ft in total, will stretch from one end to the other. Tuck into your favourite British culinary delights; ‘bottomless’ picnic baskets will be filled to the brim with sausage rolls, quiche, sliced roast beef, Scotch Eggs and pickles to name but a few choices. While those with a sweet tooth can enjoy traditional sherry trifle or delve right in and make your own Eton Mess. In addition to the unlimited supply of food and drink what street party would be complete with music; a live DJ will fill the air with great British classics from the likes of The Beatles and Rolling Stones, to Oasis, Pulp, Blur, Adele and Ed Sheeran. The Great British Street Party is on Saturday November 18th at DUKES Dubai on Palm Jumeirah from 1pm to 5pm. Priced at $125pp, for more information call +971 4 455 1111 or streetparty@ dukeshotel.com

ULTIMATE LUXURY TRAVEL NetJets, the world’s largest private aviation company has joined forces with leading hotelier Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts to offer the ultimate luxury travel experience. This innovative new initiative aims to set new standards for service by introducing exclusive travel opportunities to both NetJet owners and Four Seasons guests alike. There are three uniquely designed itineraries –entirely customisable to suit traveller preferences you will be transported via a NetJets private jet to Four Seasons destinations, where you be able to enjoy a series of exclusive experiences. Choose from a winter mountain adventure on the soaring slopes of Jackson Hole and Vail, a tropical escape to the unspoiled Hawaiian island of Lanai, or a cultural immersion in France and Italy. Throughout you journey, air transportation will be arranged by NetJets, while Four Seasons will provide all accommodations and a dedicated concierge to customise your local itinerary. Timing is flexible, and available for parties of up to 14 people – ideal for families, couples seeking a romantic getaway, or friends travelling together. For that ultimate experience travel with true peace of mind, and never having to worry NetJets and Four Seasons offer the last word in luxury travel. For more information visit www.netjets.com or www. fourseasons.com

KONA GRILL DUBAI Direct from Scottsdale, Arizona, Kona Grill brings its signature blend of fresh flavours and global favourites to the heart of Dubai. Offering a variety of modern delicacies prepared in its madefromscratch kitchen, Kona Grill is renowned for its award-winning sushi, varied American menu options, and specialty drinks to mark every occasion. America’s fastest growing restaurant brand is set to make its mark as the city’s new ‘place to be’ with its chic casual setting; perfect for a business lunch, intimate dinner or celebration. Classy, comfortable, quaint and clamorous, Kona offers the ideal family spot or night out in town with friends. Located at the newly developed bustling waterfront at Marsa Al Seef, Kona Grill serves refined contemporary dishes that build exceptional experiences and great foodie memories.Kona is open Sunday thru Saturday from 11am to midnight; for more information reservations@konagrill.ae or visit konagrill.ae

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EMIRATES PALACE ABU DHABI Emirates Palace has taken the sting out of extending your stay; but with their new Stay Longer package you can enjoy great rates and bigger savings the longer you stay. If you stay three to six nights you will enjoy 20% off the flexible rate. Extend your stay to seven nights or more and enjoy 25% off the flexible rate, inclusive of buffet breakfast for two. Upon booking one of our suites, you will also receive complimentary Palace Lounge access and airport transfers from and to Abu Dhabi International Airport. The offer is available until November 30, 2017. To find out more about reservation and terms and conditions call +971 2 690 8888 or visit www.emiratespalace.ae

TRUFFLE IN PARADISE UAE The World Alba White Truffle Auction will be hosted in the GCC for the first time in its 18-year history this November. The charity auction will be held at Le Meridien Dubai Hotel and Conference Centre on November 12, which will be held concurrently with the Grinzane Castle in Alba, Italy (the historical location of the auction) and Hong Kong, linked by satellite and broadcast worldwide. Last year the auction, which linked Philadelphia and Hong Kong with Alba, sold a twin truffle weighing 1.17kg to Chinese chef, Zhenxiang Dong for $118,000; a big slice of the $530,000 raised on the night.

Attracting connoisseurs from across the globe, this year’s auction is expected to raise over $600,000, the proceeds going to the Al Jalila Foundation - a not-for-profit organization established by HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum. Five truffles will be sold with a final, signature truffle being sold by Alba to worldwide bidders, which is expected to break the record as the most expensive truffle ever sold. Each of the five truffles on auction are linked to a local Dubai restaurant, who will offer the winning bidders an exclusive dining experience for eight people as part of their purchase; as well as having their purchase prepared and served by a renowned chef such as Gary Rhodes or Reif Othman. The auction will be held in The Great Ballroom on Sunday November 12 at 4pm.

Arrivals NEWS THE ART OF COCOONING PARIS To help you face winter with great serenity, Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris and its Spa My Blend by Clarins are offering their new My Royal Cocooning package, entirely devoted to your comfort and wellbeing. The My Royal Cocooning package includes: a 1hour yoga class, a massage, a onehour Clarins body treatment or a 30minute Clarins face treatment, Spa access (which includes use of the swimming pool, sauna, hammam, fitness centre), a beauty case with 3 travelsize Clarins or My Blend products, and a tasty treat at the hotel’s Bar Long – one hot beverage and one Pierre Hermé pastry.

The ‘My Royal Cocooning package’ is exclusively available at the Spa My Blend by Clarins from December 1, 2017 to March 31 2018, priced at $395pp. For more information visit www.leroyalmonceau.com e-mail bookus. paris@raffles.com or call +33 1 42 99 98 81

AL FRESCO SEASON ABU DHABI Now that the hot weather has abated, and outdoor season has arrived Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island is celebrating Al fresco Season with a selection of culinary journeys from fine dining and brunches to casual fare and cocktails on the terrace. 1920’s Chicago steakhouse Butcher & Still is offering its new lunch menu, with favourites such as the Double Double Cheeseburger, Prime Rib Dip, and the Crab Cake BLT. Weekend brunches are back at Cafe Milano available from 12pm to 4pm on Fridays and Saturdays; prices start at $63pp incl. soft drinks. Visit the Eclipse Terrace Lounge and enjoy innovative cocktails, fresh perspectives on ocean-inspired cuisine, and a laidback atmosphere. As the warm glow of the sun begins to fade into the Arabian Gulf, relax with friends and family; from 5pm to 9pm daily, draught hops starting from $8 and a selection of cocktails and grapes from $10. As the evening unfolds world-class DJ Renee Jones will set the tone for late-nights spent enjoying the city lights. www.fourseasons.com/abudhabi

BUSINESS LUNCH UAE If you are looking for a quick, delicious and affordable business lunch then look no further than 7Elephants Dubai, newly reopened in DIFC. The new business lunch menu offers a taste of the world, filled with favourites from their 7 international cuisines selection. There is something for everyone. From fresh prawns sautéed in white grape with a spicy garlic kick to create Spain’s famous Gambas Al Ajillo, to the art of making the juiciest Angus Burger made with a 170g of Black Angus Beef Patty. Each ingredient is handpicked to create a delicious meal, topped off with a light fruit platter dessert. Whether you’re a mogul planning for a business lunch meeting, someone looking fpr quick escape from the office chaos, or a certified foodie who simply appreciates an authentically delicious meal, 7Elephants Dubai’s upgraded Business Lunch will sate the most discerning of appetites. The business lunch is available between 12 noon and 4pm daily. Main courses start at $14. For more information call +971 4 354 4354 or e-mail Reservations@7elephantsdubai.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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This spread: Chef Antonio Mellino in the kitchen at Quatro Passi

Antonio .

Mellino

Having spent more than 40 years working in the restaurant business, achieved two Michelin stars, and earned a reputation as one of the finest exponents of Italian food, acclaimed chef Antonio Mellino could be forgiven for seeking an extremely well-earned break from the culinary arts

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THE INTERVIEW

ANTONIO MELLINO

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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THE INTERVIEW ANTONIO MELLINO

This page: A selection of dishes from Quattro Passi.

Opposite page: Close-up of a seafood dish

et after spending a few hours in the company of the Italian chef it is clear that his passion for food is boundless.

Mellino is hugely engaging and boasts an infectious smile as he reminisces on an extraordinary career that has seen him go from working on cruise ships to owning renowned restaurants in Nerano, London and Dubai.

Known for his meticulous attention to detail and creating dishes of rare beauty and vibrancy, Mellino has taken Italian fine dining to new heights. Yet his philosophy is a simple one as he states that “ingredients must speak for themselves”.

Mellino strongly believes that it is the ingredients that hold the key to achieving delectable dishes. In his mind food needs to be prepared simply and skilfully. This belief can be traced back to his childhood when the Mellino family would gather around the table and enjoy fresh fish caught by Antonio’s father, Raffaele, and prepared by his mother, Flora.

“Cooking is definitely a family passion and I first got to know the role of the kitchen by watching my mum prepare big family meals,” says Mellino. “We were a big family and on Sunday everyone would come home and my mum cooked for everybody. It was very simply food, so normally pasta with ragù.

“But we also ate lots of fish as my father was a fisherman. In fact, all the family worked in the fishing industry so we would sell some of it, but always keep some back that we could eat ourselves. We would have the most amazing fish at least fives days a week and we also had our own vegetables that I still use to this day in my restaurant. I was very lucky that Nerano was so famous for having lots of fresh ingredients.”

Developing a love of food from his family, Mellino would hone his skills in Naples after enrolling in culinary school. Following his

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graduation in 1974 he chose a rather unlikely next step, working on huge cruise liners touring the Caribbean.

It may seem a strange place to cut your culinary teeth, but Mellino insists that the years he spent on the ships helped him improve his skills inside the kitchen and learn valuable lessons in regards to running a successful business.

“The ship was a very good school for me because there were a lot of different cuisines,” remembers Mellino. “It was a very important first step as it made me ready to open my own business. Over there it was a like a city on the sea so you had so many ingredients to work with. I grew up on those ships and it was a real eye opener.

“I saw how the big machine works as we were feeding huge amounts of people every day.

So it was a real learning curve and it definitely taught me lots of lessons for when I opened my first small restaurant. But it also taught me that even on a large scale the best idea was to keep things simple and not over complicated.”

Armed with new knowledge and confident he could run his own restaurant, Mellino returned to his home town of Nerano and in 1983 was able to open Quattro Passi. Located on the stunning Amalfi Coast, he chose to use the local ingredients that he knew so well and designed a menu full of traditional dishes.

Staying true to his philosophy the focus was on simplicity.

Therefore, products from his own garden would be used as would seafood caught by the local fisherman. But what would quickly stand out to all those dining in the restaurant was Mellino’s ability to create visually stimulating dishes that simultaneously delivered with intense flavours.

“First you see the food so you need to see good things,” he explains. “I hate seeing a big mess on the plate so you have to

“Known for his meticulous attention to detail and creating dishes of rare beauty, Mellino has taken Italian ÄUL KPUPUN [V UL^ OLPNO[Z¹

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think about the presentation and of course the taste. These two have to go together. So when I organise a dish I think about the various elements and not only how the will taste together, but how they will appear on the plate.

“I also prefer to only have two or three things maximum. And that is because if I am cooking fish then I want to taste the fish. I don’t need 20 different creams, no, not at all. If you buy the best fish there is no sense to touch it to much, the simpler it is, the more you will taste and enjoy it.”

Not only did customers rave about the food on offer at Quattro Passi but critics were similarly enthralled. The restaurant still holds two Michelin stars, though Mellino places more emphasis on the opinions of his customers than he does those judging the awards.

“In my opinion you do this work because you love it,” states Mellino. “It’s not about the awards and the business side, I cook because I love to cook. The world is so small now thanks to the internet and social media so you cannot worry too much about what people write.

“For me, the best thing I can see is a clean plate. That tells me

everything I need to know about my food. If a guest leaves food on the plate you worry that they didn’t like it rather than them just being full. But ultimately everything I do is with a lot of heart and passion, and I think people understand that.

“I do not cook for money; it is purely because I love it. So in my opinion you have to enjoy what you do and not worry so much about how others view your food.”

It is clear that Mellino’s love for food has not waned in the slightest in the last four decades. Just three years ago he launched Quattro Passi London in Mayfair, and recently has been in the United Arab Emirates where a third chain of the restaurant has opened at the FIVE Palm Jumeirah, Dubai.

As with the launch in London, the veteran chef was hands on when it came to making sure every single detail lived up to his exacting standards in Dubai. Mellino designed the kitchen, helped to train the staff and of course perfect the menu.

And though he will not be spending all of his time in Dubai, he is making himself readily available to help with every aspect of the restaurant. “I was here in the beginning to organise the kitchen, FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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THE INTERVIEW ANTONIO MELLINO

This page, left to right: Chef Antonio Mellino at Quattro Passi; The Pass in Kitchen at Quattro Passi

design it and train the staff. And I just seem to keep coming back despite talking to the guys who work for me every single night.

“They send me reports and we talk on the phone every couple of days. But I still enjoy coming to the restaurant and being hands on. Every opportunity to come to Dubai I take it as I like to change the menu slightly with the seasons. Luckily you can find almost anything in Dubai now so we are working with great produce.

“There are also a lot of Italian suppliers here and I also have a friend in Portugal who is sending me all the best produce. So every chance I have to come here I take as I love tasting new items and making changes to the menu. And now if for some reason I can’t come, one of my sons can come instead.”

Like their father, both Raffaele and Fabrizio have fallen in love with food. Both trained as chefs and embraced the family business.

And if there is one thing that rivals Antonio’s passion for food, it is his excitement at being able to work alongside his sons.

“Raffaele is in Miami and Fabrizio is back in Italy,” Mellino says with a glint in his eye. “It is a privilege that my sons do the same work as me and I am very proud of both of them. The younger Fabrizio trained in Lyon in France and has worked with a lot of big chefs. But we can’t be together all the time as we argue to much.

With a huge smile, Mellino adds: “We fight all the time but it is good. It happens in every family and he wants to do his own things. Plus he is too much French because he trained there. He is working 20 hours because that is the French mentality, it is very strict and straight. In Italy we are more relaxed and we like to take a coffee break and then lunch, these can last three hours. But I am truly very happy and proud of both of my sons.”

Yet despite having two talented sons, a trio of successful restaurants and fast approaching 50 years of culinary experience, Mellino has no intention of slowing down or becoming less hands 16

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on. He readily admits that food is always on his mind and he cannot help but conjure up new dishes.

Even during his trip to Dubai there has been no time for relaxing, instead he has been working tirelessly with his team as he makes sure every dish meets his exacting standards.

“I have only been here two or three days and I am already thinking of changes to the menu,” admits Mellino. “I am always thinking about food and I love still being involved in every aspect of the machine because who knows for how many more years I can do this.

“But I have spent all my life in the kitchen so at my age we have to start giving someone else a chance. You have to have trust in people and it is time for a new generation. Luckily I have trust in my sons and the people I work with. I can explain things to them that I want and I like giving them the chance to grow.”

But for now both Raffaele and Fabrizio know that their hard working father is still the top chef in the family. And despite some heated discussions around the family table back in Italy, it is Antonio who still knows best.

“When we are all home and all three of us are cooking, we talk about everything from the food to the restaurants to the whole business,” says Mellino. “We talk, we fight, but ultimately I am very proud as they are both very smart and intelligent guys.

“I have passed down all my experience to them and it is gold, the same as putting money in the bank. This way I know that my story will continue and it will stay in the family.” And with one final smile he adds: “I think I was very smart to create this team.”

It certainly seems the legacy of Quattro Passi is in safe hands and the family’s passion for ‘simple’ cooking will never diminish.

And that can only be good news for all those fortunate enough to taste Mellino’s food whether in Nerano, London or Dubai.

Words: Adrian Back

“When I organise a dish I think about the various elements and not only how the will taste together, but how they will appear on the plate”

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FOOD & TRAVEL AWARDS 2018

You have truly made your voice heard this year with almost two million votes cast across the Gulf for this year’s GCC Food and Travel Awards - now discover who has made the finals!

ater this month we announce the finalists for 2018 GCC Food & Travel Awards Over the last few months almost two million of you have inundated us with votes for your favourite hotels, restaurants, chefs, and airlines in the GCC Food and Travel Awards and you have truly made you voices heard So see if your favourite hotel or restaurant has made the finals to be judged by the expert panel.

The winners will announced at the Awards Gala Ceremony in March 2018.

A big thanks to you all for your votes and valuable feedback

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VISIT www.foodandtravel.me www.gcctourismawards.com

to discover who has made the finals in each category

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Pantry THE

PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: SUKAINA RAJABALI WORDS, RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SARAH PRICE

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KEY IN GR EDI EN T:

Tofu CRISPY 5 SPICE TOFU RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

e’re making a statement, putting the idea out there and calling an end to tofu being pushed to the side-lines. The much-maligned ingredient is all too often dismissed as being sad, soggy and downright bland. And yet treated the right way, it’s a perfect pillowy-white vehicle for flavour, with a pleasing texture to boot.

So listen up: now really is the time for bean curd to shine and to help it on its way, consider this an ode (with a couple of supporting recipes) to healthy, budgetfriendly, wonderfully versatile, ultimately forgiving tofu.

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First produced in China over 2000 years ago, tofu found its way to Korea and Japan in the eighth century AD. Although stories vary as to how it was first made, the method for doing so is simple: fresh soy milk is boiled with a coagulant such as salt or acid which causes the milk proteins to curdle and bind together. These curds are then pressed to remove the excess liquid (whey) and consequently form a soft yet cohesive solid. Tofu remains a staple in Asian cooking today and is a popular meat or fish replacement for those following a vegetarian or vegan diet, yet there’s no

reason why it shouldn’t be embraced by all.

When it comes to doing so, the health credentials of this ingredient are worth noting. It provides iron and calcium, as well as a host of other minerals and micronutrients, is a good source of protein and contains all eight essential amino acid.

What’s not to like?

For those who have previously been put off by the texture of tofu, the key to enjoyment lies not only in the type of bean curd you choose, but in the way you prepare it. Silken tofu is, as the name suggests, softer and smoother than firm FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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TOFU DIP WITH ROASTED VEG tofu and tends to be made from pure unpressed curds. It has a smooth, delicate, almost velvety texture, which some people find troublesome when eaten as is. Blend to a puree though and it takes on a thick creaminess that’s ideal for using to make smoothies, dressings and sauces as well as fillings for puddings and pies.

Bouncy pressed tofu or firm tofu tends to be sold in blocks and is far more robust due to a greater amount of excess water being removed. Even then it’s well worth pressing again at home as the recipe below suggest; this helps the tofu to maintain its shape, gives it a pleasingly chewy texture and, perhaps most importantly of all, allows the 22

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bean curd to act like sponge, drinking up and absorbing every bit of flavour that’s sent its way.

Once pressed and marinated, the fun begins. Firm tofu can be seared in a griddle pan or on a barbecue grill, baked in the oven, used to add a protein element to curries, sauces and stews or tossed in cornflour and fried over a high heat until a gorgeous crisp exterior shell develops (see recipe below). ub with olive oil and roast them whole, whip with honey, mash until light and airy, cut into wedges, hack into chunks, slice into wispy, paper thin

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chips or blend to make silky smooth soup: there’s certainly no shortage of delicious options when it comes to cooking with sweet potatoes. What’s more, the root vegetable really seems to suit the cooler but by no means cold - weather in the region at this time of year, lending an effortlessly autumnal nod to all manner of dishes without ever feeling too heavy or hearty.

Despite their name, these tubers aren’t botanically related to regular potatoes and are actually part of the morning glory family.

They come in myriad colours, ranging from yellow to creamy white and purple, as well as the vibrant copper-skinned variety that

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KEY IN GREDI EN T:

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SWEET POTATO, DARK CHOCOLATE AND CINNAMON COOKIES RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

we’re all probably most familiar with.

As well as being energy-rich and an excellent source of beta-carotene (which is converted into vitamin A and essential for good skin and eye health), sweet potatoes are full of antioxidants and have a low glycemic index, meaning they release energy slowly over a sustained period of time, thus preventing peaks in blood sugar levels and the dreaded sugar rush and subsequent slump.

When you’re selecting sweet potatoes opt for medium-sized tubers over excessively large ones and choose those that feel heavy for their size. Keep a keen eye out for unblemished skin and avoid any with bruises, soft spots or that are starting 24

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to sprout. Handle them gently as despite their robust appearance they damage easily and store as you would regular potatoes, in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight.

It’s hard to resist the lure of a piping hot baked sweet potato with crunchy saltspeckled skin that releases a hiss of steam when sliced into and reveals soft, fluffy flesh within. Not only are they delicious just like that (with a generous slick of butter, of course), this cooking method lends itself well to myriad dishes – both sweet and savoury – as the recipes that follow show.

There’s a science behind baking them slowly in the oven too: heat causes an enzyme present in sweet potatoes to break the starch down into maltose (or malt

sugar). The longer you cook the potato for the more time the enzyme has to act on the starch and the sweeter the end result.

Mashed sweet potatoes topped with a quivering blanket of marshmallows grilled until singed a gorgeous nut-brown is a classic Thanksgiving dish that will happily sit alongside the roast turkey, cranberry sauce, stuffing, Brussels sprouts, green beans and gravy on the 23rd November. Even if you’re still not quite convinced, it’s well worth putting your preconceptions aside and trying this recipe out. The cookies meanwhile require no real preamble or hard sell: they’re crisp and chewy in all the right places and boast little nuggets of dark chocolate and nuts hidden within.

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THERAPY IN THE ETERNAL CITY Rome is full of amazing art and architecture ... and great coffee shops. Food and Travel has found ten top spots to get your perfect caffeine fix. he bags are packed and everything is ready for your trip to Rome. The Eternal City’s numerous historical sites and thousands of cosy restaurants, pizzerias, trattorias and wine bars are waiting to embrace you. But where do you actually go, if you want to taste the famous Italian coffee, which - quite understandable - is the main reason why so many Italian suffer

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from “coffee withdrawals” when away from home.

The choice is not easy in a city that has allegedly something like 6,000 coffee spots. So Food and Travel has tried ten must-visit cafés where, a part from the good coffee, you’ll be able to find the local inhabitants, coffee cups full of history and quality, birds’ singing, hats and much more.

GOURMET TRAVELLER This spread, clockwise: Bar San Calisto sign; Gatsby Cafe interior; Barista at Gatsby Cafe; Tazza D’oro coffee on sale; Chalkboard sign at Gatsby Cafe

GATSBY CAFÈ Coffee and hats Rome’s Esquilino neighborhood is also known as “Rome’s China Town”. Actually, in some parts of the quarter you’ll meet shops where the prices in the windows are exposed in Chinese Yuan. Perhaps that’s why you can sometimes see the neighborhood’s name re-baptized to the humoristic Es-qui-lin. The quarter’s main square, Piazza Vittorio, was constructed in the end of the 19. Century, during the Italian kingdom. This explains why it - with its many porticos - has something of Torino’s elegance. Right here, on the piazza, you’ll meet one of Rome’s most interesting new cafes, born in November 2016, Gatsby Cafè. “Right here there used to be a hat shop, run by the Venturini family. It opened in 1880 and closed last year. We were lucky, because the family liked our project quite a lot so we had the permission to open the cafè, and as you can see there is quite a clear reference to this shop’s first life”, Mauro Patatini, one of the owners, tells me and indicates some of the hats that are exposed on the first and second floor. The hat – today a reminder of a distant elegance – can also be found in the café’s logo. The café’s name is a reference to both the famous novel by Francis Scott Fitzgeral, the Great Gatsby, but also the equally famous Gatsby hat that you can actually still buy in the café. Inside the café there is a cozy reading and chatting room where you can enjoy your coffee or cappuccino and cornetto in a space with a strong blue color. When you’re done, take a look at the other side of the street inside the park of Piazza Vittorio. If you lucky, here – especially in the morning - you’ll be able to see members of the Chinese community practicing the famous Tai Chi Chuan gymnastics.

Gatsby Cafè, Piazza Vittorio 106, Esquilino FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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LA CASINA DEL LAGO Coffee and birds’ singing

Ahhh, Villa Borghese … what a pleasure! Walking lazily through the Roman’s favourite garden is a cheer joy. 80 acres of green idyll - which many Roman’s have almost perceived like a second living room since 1903 - is situated in the centre of the city and just waiting to open its green arms to receive you. You can enjoy the nature, visit a museum or even invite your chosen one to a romantic rowing intermezzo on the garden’s small artificial lake. Or you can contemplate Rome with a bird’s eye view from the Pincio panoramic view point. In between you’ll need a place to sit down for a cup of coffee. No problem, just go to the Casina del Lago, close to the artificial lake, where you can sit down and enjoy the birds’ singing and the fact that the city’s sounds will arrive to you in a muffled way. The neo-classical building, that hosts the café and somehow resembles a mountain cottage, was built in 1920. Today the place is a very popular pit stop to both tourists and Romans where you can also enjoy a light lunch – sandwiches and panini – accompanied by green colours and the feeling of having come to a truly relaxing place.

La Casina del Lago, Via dell’Aranciera 2, Villa Borghese www.caffeparana.it/eng/villa-borghese.htm

BAR MARANI

Like one big family They are having a really swell time right there under what is perhaps the Roman café people’s most beloved pergola.

The more than hundred year old Bar Marani is situated in Rome’s university neighbourhood, San Lorenzo. The relationship between San Lorenzo and Marani is actually a sort of a ying-yang-situation: you can definitely find a good part of San Lorenzo’s freaked out soul around the tables at Bar Marani. The bar, on the other hand, would definitely not be the same place without San Lorenzo around it. This is the neighbourhoods most popular café and one of my personal favorite places. When I have the possibility I like to make a stop-over at Marani to get the classical glass of espresso, just to make sure that nothing has changed here in the past 20 years I’ve been living in Rome. Marani is still a “home” to university students, local bohemians, heavily smoking housewives, intellectual wanna-bees, silent readers with thick glasses and all in all an impressive gallery of strange and more or less freaked out characters, of which a good part could easily have stepped out of a Fellini-movie. Susanna Marani, third generation of the Marani family recounts: “Here, we are a bit like one big family. If someone has forgotten his money at home, then he just pops by next day to pay. Some 28

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time ago all our chairs and tables here under the pergola were stolen. When people from the neighbourhood heard about it, they started to show up with chairs and tables from their homes, which we then used for about a week. As I said: one big family!”. Marani seems to be completely faithful to their own philosophy about not following fashion trends.

For that reason, Marani has never given in to the temptation of becoming a part of the lively San Lorenzo night life. So, shortly before 10 pm you’ll hear the ringing of a “closing bell”.

People empty their glasses, the book marks are put into all kinds of different stories and you’ll hear several “buona notte”, while people go back towards home or in the direction of nightly adventures.

Bar Marani, Via dei Volsci 57, San Lorenzo

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BAR SAN CALISTO

This spread, clockwise: Casina Del Lago; Bar Del Fico interior; Bar Del Fico sign; Bar San Calisto coffee; Espresso at Bar Marani; Outside area of Bar Marani.

The soul of Trastevere

There is no need to beat around the bush when it comes to Bar San Calisto. This is one of Rome’s most authentic café temples and the quintessence of the most intimate part of the Trastevere neighbourhood. The Italian term “verace” explains all that is real, authentic and without make-up, and this is exactly how San Calisto is. Every day – since the middle of the 1960’ies you have been able to meet an impressive gallery of strange existences and more or less curious individuals – local matrons, foreign students with iPads, intellectual outcasts, half-trashed artistic types, long bearded homeless, heavily smoking newspaper readers and … ordinary people. About half of the youngsters that attend the bar call the owner, Marcello Forti, by name and being the owner of this historic place he has almost earned himself cult status. In the evening the café is almost completely taken over by the student generation and party animals on their way to an evening event. San Calisto has slowly become en modern classic, an absolute must while in Trastevere and especially a social-anthropological experience that you should definitely have on your Rome bucket list.

Bar San Calisto, Piazza San Calisto 3-5, Trastevere

BAR DEL FICO

Mingling with the chic crowds Shock waves shook a good deal of the Roman café people in 2004, when Bar del Fico closed. The bar, that once was a diary and that in 1928 was transformed into a café, had been a true Rome institution for many years.

The Bar del Fico-abstinences were to last for a whole six years until 2010, when the café finally reopened. Bar del Fico – “fico” in Italian meaning fig like the old more than hundred years old fig tree situated in front of the café – has been restored in a intriguing shabby chicstyle. Today it appears to be a welcoming mix of Italian vintage and a certain amount of French bistort elements.

The Italian word play between “fico” (fig) and “figo” (chic or smart) is almost obvious, because this is the place where a great deal of the chic Romans likes to be seen and hang out. Here you can start off with cappuccino and cornetto, go on to a light lunch, take your time for a couple of aperitifs and, in the evening, go to the café restaurant, that carries the same name. And you’ll also have the opportunity to show your chess skills – if you are in that mood – with your memorized King’s Gambit in front of one of the concentrated chess players that can always be found on the piazza in front of the café.

Bar del Fico, Piazza del Fico 26-28 www.bardelfico.com

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This spread, clockwise: Antico Caffe Greco sign; Exterior view of Sant’Eustacchio; Sant’Eustacchio espresso; Sciascia coffee machines; Tazza D’oro barista; Antico Caffe Greco.

ANTICO CAFFÈ GRECO Rome’s most famous café

I can’t exactly say that I have worn out my shoes at Caffè Greco during the 20 years I’ve been living in Rome. The times I’ve visited the old café can probably be counted on a couple of hands. Despite that, I have to admit – when I once in a while go there – that its atmosphere is really something quite special.

Well, I guess it’s quite natural since we are speaking about the café that opened back in 1760! To find something similar you’ll probably have to visit Caffè Florian in Venice. Here, at Caffè Greco, the air is thick of history and of stories. The echo of past famous frequentations – Wagner, Liszt, Keats, Byron, H.C. Andersen, Goethe, Schopenhauer and many others – seems to reverberate like distance voices. The atmosphere is also full of awe, at least if you observe some of the tourists that with a clearly respectful attitude walk around in the café while contemplating antique paintings, old newspaper articles that have been framed and drawn sketches of past famous guests. Caffè Greco’s director, signor Fabio, tells me to follow him and shows me a beautiful antique sofa upholstered with a yellow velour: “This sofa used to be in the apartment above us where the Danish poet H.C. Andersen used to live for at period. He has probably been sitting here for quite a number of times”. Well, actually Greco seems to be a sort of a modern fairytale, because when you sit at the old café with a cup of espresso you almost automatically ask yourself how it has been possible to preserve such a place for more than 250 years?! The clientele of today is a mixture of Romans with reading glasses - who apparently try their best to uphold the café’s literary tradition - and tourists from all over the world.

The café is expensive (seven euro for a cup of espresso), which is comprehensible, considering its history and posh atmosphere.

Antico Caffè Greco, Via dei Condotti 86 www.anticocaffegreco.eu

TAZZA D’ORO

Going for the authentic taste experience You’ll probably have that special feeling right after you have stepped into Tazzo d’Oro, close to Pantheon: right here it’s all about coffee. The often considerable queue in front of the cash register to pay before consumption, the long zinc bar dish where the coffee cups are constantly being lined up, the many regulars who in quite a laid back way are leaning towards the bar counter to get that day’s first caffeine boost. All this translate into one single thing: you have come to a coffee Mecca, a temple, a wonderland for all lovers of the hot black drink. And this is really a Mecca of coffee, because ever since it’s opening in 1946, the Tazza d’Ora, The Golden Cup, has generally been regarded as one of the capital’s most authentic quality places for those of you looking for a 30

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high-level coffee experience that offers something extra. The café’s interior style is highly intriguing since it resembles a sort of English colonial style, with many bamboo elements.

The café roasts all its 100% Arabica (highest quality) beans and on the impressively long coffee card you’ll find coffee types like the rare Maragogype and La Regina dei Caffè Blue Mountain. The café’s trademark, which can be found on the café’s packings, is a dark-skinned Latin-American woman, who throws coffee seeds in a field. Without doubt Tazza d’Oro is a must to all coffee lovers. If you’re not in town, but you’re dying to have a taste, you actually have the possibility of ordering through the café’s home site.

Tazza d’Oro, Via degli Orfani 84-86 www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com

SANT’EUSTACCHIO

Be sure to come back to Rome “Follow me out here in the back, I want to show you something. The sacks you see here are from Brazil, but we also have suppliers from the Dominican Republic, Colombia and Guatemala. My brother Raimondo finds them during his trips to South-America. They are all producers that make a product of a very high quality”, Roberto Ricci tells me. For quite a number of years Roberto and Raimondo have run what many Romans consider to be the city’s coffee temple numero uno. A true institution of quality that opened in 1938 and which, according to Roberto, operates according to one and only keyword: quality. “We ourselves do the roasting of the beans a couple of times a week on this old roaster”, he tells me. “Then the coffee has to rest for a couple of days before it is ready for consumption. Remember: good things take time. Just as when you speak about wine or cheese”, he tells me. Here at Eustacchio, not far from the Pantheon, you’ll find tourists from all over the world, and many of them are provided with a guide that says that Eustacchio is the place, if you want to taste the famous Italian coffee in Rome. Quite a number of VIPs have ordered a cup of coffee here – no one mentioned, on one forgotten. Well, actually two persons have to be mentioned. “Mr. Schultz has been spotted here twice”, says Roberto laughing. “Who is Mr. Schultz”, I ask him.

“Mr. Schultz … the inventor of Starbucks. He did not present himself, but we discovered him”, says Roberto, laughing once again. But also the Swiss inventor Eric Favre cannot be ignored. In the middle of the 1970’ies his Italian wife took him to Rome where he, after an excellent cup of coffee at Eustacchio, asked the barista how he had made such a good cup of coffee. The barista then looked at him and said: “I just pressed a button”. That’s supposedly how Favre had his idea to what has today become a millionaire business: Nespresso.

You can visit Eustacchio in the morning, at midday or in the evening. But remember to ask for the specialty Gran Caffé. At that point you don’t have to throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain to be sure to come back to Rome.

Sant’Eustacchio, Piazza Sant’Eustacchio 82 www.santeustachioilcaffe.com

SCIASCIA CAFFÈ

Where quality never goes out of fashion If you interrogate Roman coffee aficionados many of them will stubbornly claim that the best coffee in Rome is made right here, at Sciascia, in Rome’s Prati Neighbourhood, not so far from the Vatican. And they might very well be right. Actually, the Gambero Rosso café guide continues, year after year, to give Sciascia a maximum three coffee beans-vote as a sign of the highest quality.

“Our coffee beans, that we choose very carefully, come from countries like Brazil, some middle-American and African countries”, says Adolfo Sciascia who runs the café together with his sister. The Sciascia-family is from Sicily and their activities as coffee roasters can be dated back to 1919. Stepping into Sciascia is a bit like going on a voyage back in time. In the small shop-café you find

an assortment that almost seems incidental: old-fashioned colored sweets, the classic Amarelli liquorices, small bags with freshly roasted coffee and a small framed text saying that Sciascia’s coffee is “coffee for the soul”. The part of the shop where you’ll find the café is characterized by a somewhat dark ambience and three lower hanging green lamps that for years have been fighting against the dark.

Well, darkness or no darkness. The fact is the Rome’s coffee aficionados keep coming back to taste Sciascia’s specialty, coffee with chocolate. Sciascia is like an oldfashioned romance combined with quality that goes on and on.

Sciascia Caffè, Via Fabio Massimo 80/A sciasciacaffe1919.it FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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This page: Madeleine patisserie selection; Madeleine interior; Street view of Madeleine; Outside dining at Madeleine.

MADELEINE Rome’s Prati neighbourhood, in the Northern part of the city, is a quarter which is full of cafés, many of which have a certain age. There is, however, also exceptions like the fairly new Madeleine, which opened its doors in the second half of 2015. This is actually a Salon de Gastronomie. This means, speaking about interior decoration, that we are in or around Paris. Madeleine opens at 8 in the morning and stays open until 2 in the night, so you could actually stay her all day long. And that would probably not be a problem, if you consider the style and elegance of this new bistro, one of the most elegant in Rome right now.

The owner Giancarlo Battafarano surely has a sixth sense of taking over abandoned restaurants and turning them into chic meeting points. Well, Madeleine is actually so chic and has such a style that sometimes it suddenly appears in your living room ... when you experience that several TV-commercials have been shot here. In a small part of the café you’ll find a so-called tavolo sociale, a social table, the perfect dinner place for a small group of 10-12 friends, what will probably have the feeling that they are sitting in a private living room. In the bottom of the café, beautifully lid with dozens of small lamps, you’ll find the Boudoir bar, where you can get long drinks or high class whiskey. Madeleine is definitely the place where Rome meets Paris and ... they fall hopelessly in love!

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Words: Jesper Storgaard Jensen Photos: Jesper Storgaard Jensen, Madeleine

Where Rome flirts with Paris

Safari so good Giraffe Manor sounds like something out of a fairy tale: magical, enchanting and just past the realms of possibility.

And yet as you can see, its very real indeed.

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GOURMET TRAVELLER This spread, clockwise: Giraffe Manor at meal time; A giraffe showing up for afternoon tea; The drawing room; Breakfast for two.

his unique hotel, which is part of the exclusive The Safari Collection, sits unobtrusively on private land in the middle of a forest in the Langata suburb of Nairobi. It’s just 45 minutes’ drive from the airport yet on arrival here you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to another era - or even another land.

Inside the magnificent vine-covered building the look and feel is that of an opulent 1930’s colonial manor thanks to the original fireplaces, heavy print wallpaper, gleaming polished wooden floors and sumptuously upholstered furniture, all interspersed with Africaninfluenced statement pieces.

The ambience – helped along by the endlessly helpful and wellinformed staff – is altogether luxurious, yet warm and welcoming too. Each of the 12 characterful bedrooms is individually decorated and boasts its own signature touches: think exposed beams, high ceilings, comfy sofas, private balconies and whimsical four-poster beds draped in gauzy curtains. In the main building, there’s a library room for quiet relaxation, a gorgeous light-filled conservatory where you can opt to eat dinner, plenty of window seats with stunning views and snug armchairs perfect for curling up in. Venture outside to the sun-drenched courtyard and it’s all too easy to imagine yourself as a lord or lady of the manor who spends their days ambling around the leafy grounds.

While this is all rather wonderful, the really extraordinary thing about this destination is the very special permanent residents. A majestic herd of Rothschild giraffes roam freely about the forest grounds and pay daily visits to the manor. Depending on the bedroom that you stay in, staff will leave food out on the window sills at night, meaning that the next morning your alarm clock could well be in giraffe form.

At breakfast time expect to look up from your coffee and into the inquisitive, long-lashed eyes of a giraffe or two as they poke their

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This spread, clockwise: Feeding the giraffes; Ready for breakfast; Afternoon tea; A friendly hotel guest; The dining room; Scones 36

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Words: Sarah Price Photos: Sukaina Rajabali

graceful necks through one of the large windows and attempt to nibble on a piece of toast or just give you a quick nuzzle. Later on in the day, as you settle yourself out on the terrace and tuck into a decadent afternoon tea complete with beautifully light and crumbly homemade scones, jam and plenty of cream, it’s likely that yet more giraffes will wander by. Toss a pellet of food their way and they’ll demonstrate an impressive level of dexterity by seamlessly catching it in their mouths and the more adventurous can even attempt the giraffe kiss: hold a pellet between your lips and the giraffes will utilise their notoriously long tongues and take it from you.

Spending a couple of relaxing wonder-filled days at Giraffe Manor provides a complete escape from the reality of everyday life.

Whatever your age or reason for holidaying – honeymoon, family trip, high-octane adventure – this is an experience that can only be described as utterly entrancing and entirely memorable.

Travel information Giraffe Manor, Langata, Nairobi, Kenya www.thesafaricollection.com/properties/giraffe-manor +254 725 675 830 +254 731 914 732 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Sláinte!

Food and Travel’s Anthea Rowan take us on culinary journey to visit a few of the Emerald Isle’s latest Michelin-starred eateries and more unburn is just about the last thing you expect in Ireland.

Guinness – yes. Black pudding – sure. A battle to understand what people are saying – probably. And you know for certain that you will get rain, But sunburn? No way. Yet that’s exactly what we got. For the whole week in midSeptember that we spent on the Emerald Isle, the skies were mostly a clear cerulean blue and the temperatures surprisingly high. No “soft Irish days”, then, the typically cheerful Irish view of what amount to plain old wet days, just blazing nearMediterranean climes. When we got home, I showed a friend a photograph. “Guess where?” I asked. “Mauritius,” he offered. “Nope.”

“France?” “Wrong again.” “OK. Italy then?” “Noooo.” “Oh, alright then, I give up.”

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We arrived in Shannon in County Clare on the west coast of Ireland one blazing Friday afternoon and collected our hire car. For me to drive. Because my husband had forgotten his driver’s licence. How convenient, I glowered. He thought he was very clever; he thought he was the first man in the world to pull this trick – no licence and he couldn’t drive. No driving meant he could enjoy a few pints. The man at the car rental company, when I proffered my driver’s licence and assured him that yes, I would indeed be the only one driving, smiled knowingly. We hadn’t been on the road to Galway for more than 30 minutes when my husband decided it was time to stop at a pub. “It’s somewhere for us to meet up with your brother,” he offered, when he noticed that I was taking a rather dim view of his plans. The pub

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IRELAND

This spread, clockwise: Adara Manor aerial view; Enjoying the Summer in Galway; Morans on the Weir, Clarinbridge Oyster Fest; The Kings’s Head; Old Town streets in Galway;The Emerlad Isle’s stunning scenery.

It sits on a bay that concertinas the coast so that we found ourselves facing back towards County Clare, which we’d thought we’d left miles behind us.

Known as the City of the Tribes, Galway is one of the fastestgrowing and trendiest cities in Europe, offering excellent shopping and a university that is held in high regard. It has a young, buzzing character, and at the same time feels sedate and authentically historic. It’s the birthplace of the iconic Irish Claddagh ring (two hands holding a heart, signifying love and friendship) and is sliced through by the mighty Corrib River, on its way to the sea. We admired the river from one of the city’s bridges. The colour of tea, the water foamed and gurgled and boiled as it raced on its way.

“That’s a lot of water,” exclaimed my husband (recently arrived from drought stricken Africa). “What do you expect?” asked my brother, “It’s done nothing but rain for two months.” (Soft Irish Days not so soft after all?) But not now. Now the sun sizzled down on us and the Irish were out in force on the beaches, armed with buckets and spades, but not with enough sunscreen it would seem, judging by the pale skin being fried like bacon rashers.

Blue and white skies and seas, a beach the colour of butterscotch and bright pink skin. Where was the green, I wondered? Where were Ireland’s ubiquitous forty shades of green? My great-uncle Eddie, a Catholic priest (every family worth their Celtic salt has at least one!), talked about the “forty shades” incessantly. I was astonished he chose, on the square in the small town of Gort, was raucous with postmarket hilarity. We stepped in to be met with much warmth and laughter... and many questions.

The guide books will tell you that the Irish are friendly. The Irish will tell you that the Irish are nosy. Husband drank his pint of black and I primly sipped my tea. We were both relieved to see my brother, who has lived in Ireland for almost 30 years, step across the threshold to act as our interpreter. Thick Irish brogues can be difficult to understand, particularly when they’ve been thickened by an afternoon’s worth of Guinness. By which time my husband had erroneously swapped me for an ancient Land Rover with an old boy called Mick who lived in County Clare. Or perhaps not erroneously at all? Mick’s wife looked resigned to her fate. She must have witnessed many similar transactions over many other pints. And so to Galway. With me at the rental car’s wheel and my husband chortling to himself in the passenger seat. Galway is a beautiful city on the west coast of Ireland.

“Known as the City of the Tribes, Galway is one of the fastest growing and trendiest cities in Europe” to discover, given that I had not taken him to be much of a music fan, that the phrase was coined by the singer Johnny Cash. He’d visited Ireland in the early 60s and subsequently devoted a whole album to this country, including a rather sentimental track called Forty Shades of Green.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Moran’s on the Weir near Clarinbridge, where we ate oysters because we had conveniently timed our visit to coincide with the town’s annual Oyster Festival.

The thatched cottage on the banks of the Dunkellin that is globally renowned Moran’s was once a bar it opened in the 1700s that slaked the thirst of farmers who came to gather peat and seaweed Situated close to Galway’s native oyster beds, the pub didn’t begin its now famous trade in seafood until the 1960s – ten years after the Galway oyster festival had been founded. Many people have waxed lyrical on Moran’s today’s it’s the social media crew, but once it was poets: Seamus Heaney described “laying down a perfect memory” in the “cool of thatch and crockery” in his poem, Oysters. There were no greens to be seen in the bay that Indian summer afternoon: only hotwhite and smoked blue. But they were in abundance as we – sorry, I – drove east from the coast all the way across to Dublin and down towards Wexford. There was the green, I thought: bright green, dark green, light green, olive green, bottle green, lime green, sage green, jade green and yes, inevitably, emerald green. All of it rendered all the more vivid by the continuing sunshine.

From Wexford we travelled to County Waterford – famous for its FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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GOURMET TRAVELLER IRELAND

“The Cliff House Hotel is located in Ardmore, a delightful seaside village and a very cool place to stay.” wonderful crystal – where we took a sleepy detour down The Hook and over the ferry at Passage East to Arthurstown. We drove along the cliffs and watched the sea crash onto the rocks far beneath us.

The water was steely grey, the sky less blue; fat clouds scudded along quickly, herded by a nippy, impatient wind. But the greens were just as green. Greener even. Inland we could see the spread of the Comeragh and Knockmealdon Mountains, their flanks draped in a shawl of forest green. At Dungarven we stopped for tea. (Tea for two. Not a pint for one, note). We watched, shivering, as a crowd of teenagers clowned around in the water with kayaks, one of them wearing the Irish colours. Orange, white and – predictably – green.

Our destination for the night is one of Ireland’s hippest hotels. The Cliff House Hotel is located in Ardmore, a delightful seaside village and a very cool place to stay. It has been left unspoiled by the Celtic Tiger that raced through Ireland during the country’s economic boom, often with insufficient regard for good architectural taste. Remodelled to the tune of over €20million, The Cliff House straddles a cliff, as the name suggests, and boasts unbelievable sea views: not for nothing was it named as one of the 10 Most Beautiful Clifftop Hotels in the World, second only to Monastero Santa Rosa on the Amalfi Coast in Italy. Our balcony offered a vertiginous perspective of the churning water below.

And the bathroom was quite the best I’ve ever had the pleasure to bathe in. The bath was big enough to do lengths in, the glass shower presented not just the opportunity to shower à deux, but also to gawp at the vista of beach and cliff, sea and sky that sprawled beneath us.

The complimentary toiletry products came in jumbo size and funky colours (acid orange, bright purple and – naturally – bright lime green).

The hotel’s restaurant, House, has (October 2017) again retained its Michelin star.

The beauty of a Michelin star, says the Cliff’s GM, Adrian Bartels, is that it puts you on the map, but the real challenge is that you can’t buy it – you have to earn it. And then and this is the really hard part retain it: a star can rather coldly, be taken away so there’s no resting on your laurels once you’ve got one. The Cliff’s ‘House’ Restaurant was first awarded a star in 2010, two years after it opened its doors.

The Cliff’s Head Chef, Martijn Kajuiter, once Head Chef in Restaurant De Kas in Amsterdam having worked in London for culinary luminaries such as Marco Pierre White and Pierre Koffman, agrees that “Having a Michelin Star means that we are doing something right and that the work we put in as a team gives the result we are associated with the crème de la crème of restaurants worldwide, something to be very proud of.”

The Cliff is part of a trio of hotels that showcase the best of Ireland: sea, city, country. Dublin’s Cliff Town House, with its edgy Urchin bar, enjoys everything the capital has to offer whilst The Cliff at Lyons in Kildare the latest addition to the Cliff’s stables, acquired in 2016, is a 40

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gorgeous collection of historic creeperclad buildings including a mill and a dovecote in beautiful grounds. We leave the Cliff reluctantly and head northwest towards the pretty little town of Adare, home to the ruins of Adare Castle, once some of the most impressive in Ireland. Building began as far back as the 12th century. This AngloNorman fortress was the seat of various aristocratic Irish families, mostly the Earls of Kildare, until it fell to English troops in 1578 after an 11day siege. But the grandeur of Adare doesn’t lie in a pile of aged stones. In November the beautiful neo Gothic Adare Manor, set within almost 850 acres of stunning grounds and once home to the Earl of Dunraven, will reopen its doors after an 18 month hiatus and reported $120 million refit. The hotel stands tall, composed and graceful near the castle on the River Maigue, amidst spilling acreages of green and aside a world class golf course recently completely redesigned by world-renowned golf course architect, Tom Fazio.

The last leg of our journey took us back to where we’d started, Co Clare home to Ireland’s latest Michelin starred restaurant. The first Irish pub to be awarded the accolade the Wild Honey Inn in Lisdoonvarna is run by chef Aidan McGrath who once worked with the Cliff’s Adriaan Bartels as Head Chef at Sheen Falls Hotel in Kenmare. His star brings to 13 the total number of Michelin Stars in Ireland; lucky for some then. By the time we handed over the keys at the car rental company, we’d driven the breadth of Ireland. Twice. It’s a little place, so it’s easily done... especially if you have a partner who remembers their driver’s licence.

We were too broke to be seduced by duty-free prices into buying Real Irish Lace or Real Irish Leprechauns (how can a leprechaun possibly be real?), and our children were spared I LOVE IRELAND key rings, even if I do. Instead, we bought a couple of Cokes and a copy of the Irish Times and whilst husband flicked through the sports section in a bid to try to understand the complexities of hurling and Gaelic football, I watched an American lady powder her nose, admire her reflection and tip the ridiculous hat she was wearing at a jaunty angle, it sported the Irish colours: orange, white and green … Obviously.

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Words by Anthea Rowan

This spread, clockwise: Cliff House Hotel dining area; Halibut & ratatouile; Cliff House Hotel from the beach below; The Cliff Townhouse Dublin dining area; Food at Cliff Townhouse

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This spread: The Chedi’s beautiful water gardens; Lebnah marinated lamb chop served at The Beach Restaurant; Chedi Club Suite bedroom.

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GOURMET TRAVELLER THE CHEDI

magic

The Chedi the Jewel in the crown Oman has one of the Middle East’s most dynamic and forward-thinking, yet traditional capitals. Francesca Jackson finds it ripe for culinary, cultural and multi-sensory exploration uscat is one of the most beautiful cities in the Middle East – almost 900 years old with none of the towering chrome edifices you might have come to expect from similar regional capitals. Take time to visit some of the local heritage sites, such as: the Mirani and Jalali Forts, both built in the 16th century by the Portuguese and then captured by the Ottomans some 20 years later. Now they sit proudly above the marina, towering down as a reminder of the city’s multicultural history. A visit to the Muttrah Souq is a must: labyrinthine streets with overpowering heat, aromas and a kaleidoscope of colours that sum up the city perfectly. Buy a souvenir or two, perhaps some

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authentic frankincense in time for Christmas, or silver charm bands for a loved one. As you’d expect, haggling is par for the course. In our experience, kicking the negotiation off with a joke and a smile rather than playing hardball will keep them on side. The Sultan’s Al Alam Palace isn’t to be missed; over 200 years old, built by a direct grandfather of the current Sultan. Even though you’re not allowed in – it’s worth strolling by for the gilded photograph opportunities.

Like the rest of the Middle East, Muscat has myriad five-star hotels of equal quality. The Chedi is a favourite, with genuine idiosyncratic quality (so often lost among chain five stars).

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GOURMET TRAVELLER THE CHEDI

THE CHEDI The picturesque Chedi Resort in Muscat is located amongst the lush manicured splendour of its own 21 acres of gardens, pools and private golden beaches lapped by the balmy waters of the Arabian Sea, set against the backdrop of the Hajar mountains. The plush décor based upon a palette of natural colours and artisandesigns reminds you that the Chedi is a truly indulgent destination that reflects the heritage of Oman’s souks and gentle pace.

The three pools – the pinnacle of which is the 103m aptly named Long Pool, overlooking the azure waters of the Arabian Sea (also brilliant for swimming, by the way) – are enough to make you want to spend a week coddled within the resort walls, splayed under the cloak of a golden sun. But the prospect of an indulgent dip is not the only thing that’s trumps at the plush Chedi. The rooms do a very good job of making you want to stay put: mostly dark woods and crisp white linens, some are flourished with deft Omani touches like burnished metalwork. Cool, quiet retreats from the relentless Muscat heat, they boast complimentary minibars (in the club suites this equals carafes of grape and spirits), because the Chedi really isn’t a ‘done-by-halves’ kind of place.

The hotel has six restaurants and two lounges offering cuisines and grape from across the world, from the Mediterranean and the Middle East to Southeast Asia and India. You will be spoilt for choice with venues by the pool, beach or gardens, according to the season or weather, and for that special fine dining experience

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This spread, clockwise: Classic malaysian creamy Laksa soup served at The Restaurant; The Spa relaxation lounge; The Restaurant’s main dining area; The Beach Restaurant on the seafront, at sunset; Nasi Goreng; The Long Pool; The Chedi Club Suite’s terrace overlooking the ocean; The Serai Pool cabana’s for private dining.

“Four open kitchens spill enticing aromas as some of Muscat’s finest culinary talents prepare a selection of international cuisine” visit ‘The Restaurant’ which blends clean Asian décor with traditional Omani flourishes; and don’t let the simple functionality of its name fool you. ‘The Restaurant’ offers a delightful intricacy of cuisine.

The graceful curves of Omani arches, crystal chandeliers, vaulted ceilings, contemporary dark grey terrazzo floors and bay windows set the mood of the chic dining room. Four open kitchens spill enticing aromas as some of Muscat’s finest culinary talents prepare a selection of international cuisine, complemented with a sip from the Chedi’s award-winning selection of grape. In addition to the elegant dining room, you can dine alfresco on the patio or in one of the eight private dining rooms and lounge areas.

Dinner at ‘The Restaurant’ was a delight. To start I had Beetroot Salad - beetroot prepared three ways - pickled, salt-baked and raw, served with a creamy goat’s cheese, walnuts and thin slices of sweet orange segment, balanced by a peppery rocket garnish; a light and beautifully-balanced dish that would serve as the perfect overture to any meal. For the main event, I opted for the Omani Mixed Grill; a perfectly cooked combination of sweet Omani lobster tail, plump giant prawns, delicate moist hammour and succulent king fish, accompanied by fluffy saffron rice and a home-made chermoula dressing that added a refreshing zing, providing a pleasing medley of flavours and textures on my tongue; a veritable kiss from Neptune. As if I had not eaten enough I still managed to find room for dessert; a mille-feuille vanilla slice, filled with a delicious velvety crème pâtissière accompanied with homemade vanilla ice-cream; a truly heavenly dish that transported me back to my favourite Parisian patisserie on the banks of the Seine.

A delightful meal, attentive service, in the perfect setting; enjoyed to the lyrical strains of the talented pianist. www.ghmhotels.com/en/muscat FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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This spread: Aerial view of the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort overlooking Omen’s Hajar mountains.

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GOURMET TRAVELLER

MOUNTAIN HIGH Anantara al Jabal al Akhdar Resort Oman

Perched on a jagged peak amidst the spectacular beauty of Jabal Akhdar in the Al Hajar Mountains

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ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

he Anantara al Jabal al Akhdar Resort sits on the edge of a sheer cliff amidst the spectacular rugged scenery of the Al Hajar mountains; the hotel has stylish rooms and villas and offers an extensive choice of activities from hiking and abseiling to swimming and training in the well-equipped gym, for the more adventurous to cooking and first class dining to photography and spa treatments for the more laid-back amongst us.

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LOCATION Accessible only by 4x4, the two-hour journey from Muscat is an intrinsic part of the visit, as you slowly make the 2,000 metre climb into the Hajar Mountains; the rustic scenery peppered with goats and farms, historic abandoned villages and date palms. The hotel sits in the heart of an area renowned for its damask roses, on the Saiq Plateau just a short ride from the historic town of Nizwa

ESSENCE The contemporary architecture reflects its Omani heritage, with touches of inspiration drawn from ancient forts and Oman’s innate artistic heritage, centred around a cluster of low-rise buildings connected by a network of narrow waterways inspired by traditional ancient irrigation channels and a myriad of stone paths. Whether you choose to stay in a suite or one of the luxurious private villas, you will note the attention to detail in the décor; earthy hues, ornate wooden doors and elegant archways set the tone. One of the centre pieces is the viewing platform named after the late Diana, Princess of Wales, who visited the spot in 1986.

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This spread, clockwise: Cliff Pool Villa room details; The resort entrance; Pool at the women’s spa; Spectacular views during moutain yoga; Royal Mountain Villa interior; Rose water distellery; The view from the Cliff Pool villas; The library

SERVICES & FACILITIES The hotel staff are professional, courteous and friendly, and the local guides knowledgeable and helpful. There is something for everyone, let one of the expert chefs teach you to cook Arabic specialities, take a trip on the local culture trail and visit the Nizwa souk or the ancient fort, or see Damask roses in full bloom and meet the families who make rose water in time-honoured fashion.

Other activities include outdoor favourites from hiking and mountain biking to abseiling and archery, and for those of you of a gentler demeanour, a choice of sunrise yoga and landscape painting to relaxing spa treatments and lazy days by the pool.

STAY The resort boasts 115 spacious rooms and 1,2 & 3 bedroom villas; the 82 rooms all have balconies with inspiring canyon views, and every villa has a Majlis-style living area and its own private pool and dedicated host. The accommodations are decorated in a palette of warm earthy hues, natural wood oors, decorative features, and have walk-in closets, rain showers, deep tubs and luxuriant furnishings

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ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

“One of the centre pieces is the viewing platform named after the late Diana, Princess of Wales, who visited the spot in 1986.”

This page, top-to-bottom: Dining

by Design with spectacular view’s of Jebel Akhdar; Al Maisan restaurant; Diana’s Point.

Al Maisan is the resort’s all-day dining restaurant located above the central courtyard; eat in the dining room or alfresco on the terrace.

Start your day with the breakfast buffet with all your favourite dishes and selection of home-baked breads and pastries. Lunch and dinner is à la carte, with culinary treats from the four corners of the globe, including dishes from South East Asia, India, and Europe.

Signature restaurant, Al Qaala, situated in the heart of the complex reflects the iconic architecture of the Musandam Tower; Omani fine dining at its best, offering classic regional dishes and Arabic specialities using the freshest of produce.

Bella Vista is an inspiring dining spot, nestled beside the infinity pool where water meets sky, to provide stunning vistas. Casual by day and sophisticated elegance by night, the Roman kitchen produces authentic contemporary Italian cuisine.

Al Baha’s central location provides is the perfect place to relax.

Try fresh morning coffee, served by a barista or freshly squeezed juices and mocktails. Enjoy the all-day international menu of snacks and light meals, or take afternoon tea, freshly baked pastries or relax around courtyard’s open fireplace each evening and take in the stars.

Taking its inspiration from Oman’s traditional forts, the Al Burj lounge is a Moroccan lounge. Choose from a range of specialty coffees and teas, juices and cocktails, as well as a selection of fine grape and bubbly; perfectly complemented by a tapas-influenced lite-bite menu.

Perched above the courtyard, is the Al Shourfa shisha lounge, a great place to relax and savour one of Arabia’s most famous traditions. Originating in Persia and India in the late 16th century, the hookah has long been popular in the Arab world; choose from apple, peach, apricot, pomegranate, mango and melon flavoured tobaccos, as well as a VIP range for shisha connoisseurs.

Dining by design offers the ultimate in bespoke private dining.

Select your favourite meal from a collection of connoisseur menus 50

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to be prepared by your personal chef. Dine when and where you wish, selecting from a range of settings such as the star-gazing platform at Diana’s Point.

Thanks to its location and striking setting, excellent amenities, stylish set up, service and décor the Anantara al Jabal al Akhdar Resort really does deliver on its promises and is something of a destination spot in itself. Combine that with its position at the heart of some of the most stunning scenery in Oman this is a must-visit hotel. jabal-akhdar.anantara.com

Words by Francesca Jackson.

EAT & DRINK

of ABU DHABI THE CAPITAL’S FAVOURITE FOOD, DRINK AND MUSIC FESTIVAL RETURNS TO DU ARENA, YAS ISLAND 9 - 11 NOVEMBER 2017

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Sample over 75 dishes from 18 of the city’s hottest restaurants!

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GOURMET TRAVELLER SEYCHELLES

A LITTLE PIECE OF

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This spread: A private spot of beach at Lemuria

The Seychelles; white powdery sand, balmy waters, verdant green mangroves and the warm embrace of a golden sun!

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CONSTANCE EPHELIA ne of the largest resorts in the Indian Ocean, the Constance Ephelia proudly states that it offers the rarest of commodities in a hotel: space. Set in a natural park on the striking west coast of MahĂŠ, the main island in the Seychelles, it certainly delivers on that front, for as soon as I enter the lobby I am informed that the resort stretches out across 296-acres. A daunting space for those without a natural sense of direction, I am thankful when a map is immediately placed in my hands and I am given a full run down of what is on offer in this huge complex.

This is not a short conversation as great effort has been put into making Ephelia appeal to a huge cross section of potential patrons. For couples seeking a relaxed getaway there is the largest spa in the Indian Ocean, several secluded beaches and ďŹ ve bars to choose from. Yet there is also plenty to appeal to families as there are four tennis courts, a climbing wall, a daunting zip-line that runs through the forest and no end of activities based on the water.

Bicycles are also on offer and prove to be a hugely popular way for families to navigate the spacious resort.

The makeup of the 313 rooms and villas has also been designed with differing customers in mind. All are spacious and range from garden view single rooms to villas that can sleep up to seven people.

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GOURMET TRAVELLER

SEYCHELLES

This spread, clockwise: Ephelia Seychelles Beach Villa; Dinner at Ephelia; North beach; The main building at night looking out over the pool; Hillside villa; The pool at Ephelia; Dining at Seselwa.

“The hillside villas offer something unique thanks to a breath-taking view of the forest and the crashing waves far below.”

I was staying in a senior suite which was twice the size of an average hotel room and also boasted a sizeable balcony. Inside the décor is simple with wooden ornaments and wicker wall panels. Plenty of light was also able to get in thanks to the massive floor to ceiling sliding doors. There was also air conditioning and an overhead fan, while the complimentary mineral water – bottled on site - was refilled daily and came in glass bottles to minimise plastic waste. The only negative was the complimentary chocolates in the room were covered in tiny ants that had worked their way through the plastic, but the staff were quick to apologise and take them away.

While the majority of the rooms have a similar feel, the eight hillside villas offer something unique thanks to a breath-taking view of the forest and the crashing waves far below. Even if you do not stay in these villas it is worth walking or cycling to them just to take in the stunning views. I was also informed that I could access a beach below by taking a path through the forest and it is definitely worth a visit if you are feeling adventurous. It may be a small stretch of sand but the water is clear and it is extremely peaceful.

There are in fact two small beaches that can only be accessed by foot and require some effort, but for those seeking a more relaxing day in the sun, there are two main beaches. The north side of the resort is perhaps more beautiful thanks to the pale green waters that are contrasted by white sand and black volcanic rock.

But the south beach, Lans Ilet, also proves popular as the sea is calm and the shallow waters allow you to walk all the way to a tiny neighbouring island with its own secluded beaches.

At both beaches you will find the usual range of water-sports, including windsurfing, pedal boats and diving. But Ephelia also offers a more unique activity as when the tide is out you are able to go on a kayaking tour of the mangroves that sit in the middle of the resort. The hotel has made plenty of effort to protect this mass of mangrove forests and it is a great way to see the natural vegetation and wildlife.

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GOURMET TRAVELLER SEYCHELLES

Kayaking is also a far more interesting way to explore the resort than just simply sitting on one of the many golf carts that ferry people to and fro throughout the day. Though this mode of transport is preferable late at night when it can be difficult to navigate, even with maps placed throughout the grounds of the hotel.

For those who prefer to relax during a stay then there is the impressive U Spa, which has 18 treatment rooms, a Jacuzzi, reflective pool and a yoga pavilion. Despite the number of guests taking advantage of the service, I rarely saw another sole and was able to make use of the spa’s facilities long after my massage had ended.

The same cannot be said of the restaurants as with the sheer volume of guests, each of the five restaurants proves to be hugely popular and a reservation in advance is definitely recommended.

The main buffet restaurant Corossol is the most spacious and is exceptionally popular for breakfast and dinner. It also has the most varied cuisine with everything from tandoori to pizzas on the menu. For fine dining and French cuisine, Cyann is a must, but it was Adam and Eve that truly stood out. The main focus is on South East Asia and there is a definite emphasis on Malay and Indonesian cuisine. The food is exceptional and the service is fast considering there are just two chefs preparing all items on the menu.

Of course if you feel you have overindulged there is a sizeable gym packed with an array of machines and free weights, while throughout the resort there is a host of free standing equipment that is great for a full body workout.

So whether you are looking for an action-packed adventure with the family, or you simply want to relax on the beaches and enjoy decadent food, Ephelia has struck the perfect balance. And despite the stunning surroundings of Mahé, you will find yourself not even wanting to leave the sprawling grounds of the resort.

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This spread, clockwise: Lemuria Presidential villas; Lemuria Seychelles aerial view; Lounge area of the presidential suite; Dinner by the rocks; Ephelia Spa villa; Breakfast at Corossol.

“Accommodation is rarely more than 20 metres from the white sand” CONSTANCE LÉMURIA Stretching across the north-western side of Praslin Island, just a 15-minute flight from the mainland, Mahé, Lémuria is a sprawling 101-hectare resort that nestles amidst the natural beauty of the Seychelles. The hotel and its grounds are built into the island’s luscious green hillside, while the three beaches of soft white sand have been largely untouched, with only one boasting the usual abundance of loungers and sun shades.

Just a five-minute drive from the airport, the hotel feels secluded and makes full use of its natural surroundings. Even the short buggy ride I take from reception to the lobby sees me wind my way through rich flora, whilst also introducing me to the island’s wildlife in the form of three very large tortoises.

Once inside the lobby I’m immediately greeted by the centrepiece of the hotel - a three-tier swimming pool that cascades down to sea-level. All three levels offer views to the turquoise ocean, with the upper level also boasting a swim up bar where you can order

a wide selection of grape, spirits and cocktails. It is here that you will also find an outdoor dining area that offers a small yet eclectic menu of dishes.

A short walk from the lowest level there is the first of the 105 suites and villas that make up the hotel. All of the rooms are spacious, with the even the smallest measuring a sizeable 52 sq. metres, and are finished in a cool colonial style. The mixture of wooden furniture and blinds is contrasted by the marble and granite counters and bathroom. Accommodation is rarely more than 20 metres from the white sand, with tidy gardens, an outdoor shower and a hammock the only things standing between my ground floor apartment and the picturesque Grande Anse Kerlan. However, I am unable to swim from this beach as the strong winds and currents make it unsafe.

Fortunately, I had been warned by the staff about this fact and I was also informed that the beach is actually a nesting ground for turtles.

Those visiting between November and February may be fortunate enough to see the hatchlings and the hotel even employs a Turtle FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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This spread, clockwise: Sea turtle on the beach; The Senior Suite at Lemuria; Aerial view over the golfcourse at Lumeria; The crystal blue waters of the Seychelles; The dining area in the senior suite; Panoramic view of the Lemuria’s stunning beaches.

Manager – a rather unique position – to make sure they have the best chance of survival.

For those seeking a relaxing swim in the clear ocean, Petite Anse Kerlan offers a stretch of beach lined with loungers and includes an area from which you can hire snorkelling gear. Here I was able to laze away an afternoon and see all manner of sea life, but the beach did become quite crowded. To get away from the crowds I would recommend taking the short journey to Anse Georgette. This stunning beach can be found via a 15-miunte stroll through the golf course. Though if you struggle with hills then I would recommend asking the staff to help as they regularly run a van to the location.

The beach itself is how nature intended, with a sublime stretch of pale sand contrasted by the dense forest behind and the clear sea in front. Be warned though, there is no lifeguard, toilets or even loungers here so make sure to bring your own towel and plenty of drinking water.

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“There is plenty to keep you entertained; water sports, a PADI dive centre, two tennis courts and the only 18-hole golf course” keep you entertained throughout the hotel. There are water sports facilities, a PADI dive centre, two tennis courts and the only 18-hole golf course As you would expect with a hotel set over such a large space there is also plenty to choose from when it comes to dining.

Takamaka is a relaxed restaurant on Petite Anse Kerlan which serves a range of light meals and has extremely fresh seafood in the form of smoked marlin and sashimi. Further down the beach is The Nest which offers sensational views thanks to its location on the top of a natural rock formation. This has a larger and more varied menu and is an excellent spot for couples looking for a romantic meal with a view. Legend also boasts an impressive vista as it sits above the third tier of the swimming pool, and it is here that you can sample a wide variety of cuisines thanks to each evening buffet offering a different theme. But the most popular restaurant is the newly renovated Diva, which sits beside the golf course. Most people dress up for the occasion as it has the most refined menu and a large selection of grape. But the first thing you will notice is the décor with its undersea feel, thanks to lights and chairs that look like sea urchins. Having had a recent makeover and with outstanding food, this was my favourite destination for dinner.

Ultimately, although there is plenty on offer for families in Lémuria, the resort was full of couples during my stay. And it was easy to see why the hotel is in demand for honeymooners. The breath-taking views, secluded beaches and an array of dining options make it the perfect relaxing retreat. www.constancehotels.com FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Juan Pablo Rey Nores Head Chef Gaucho Dubai

After receiving a culinary education from his idol, Nores made the decision to explore his love for cooking and became enamoured with street food 60

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Opposite page: Chef Juan Pablo Rey Nores. This page: Chef Juan Pablo Rey Nores with a selection of dishes; Gaucho’s dining area; Gaucho sign.

ad it not been for the intervention of one man then Juan Pablo Rey Nores’ career may have gone in a very different direction. Now the head chef of Gaucho Dubai, it was only at the suggestion of famed Argentinean chef Francis Mallmann that he decided to make the move from the dining room into the kitchen.

Despite always having a passion for gastronomy, Nores spent close to a decade working in a variety of positions in the front of house. Then at the age of 26 he was convinced by Mallmann to finally take his first tentative steps inside the kitchen.

“I started working when I was 16 and I was in all the positions inside

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THE INTERVIEW

grandmother’s ability to create hugely flavourful dishes with simple ingredients, he became enamoured with street food as travelled to the likes of Brazil, Uruguay and Thailand.

Discovering new techniques and tasting varying local ingredients, Nores returned with his knowledge enhanced and was able to open his first restaurant back home in Argentina. Yet within two years he was persuaded to once again leave the kitchen and this time work as general manager of a hugely popular restaurant in the city of Santa Domingo in the Dominican Republic.

“It was a great opportunity and fortunately I was able to have input

“When someone like Francis tells you this, then it is an opportunity you can’t say no to. So I started to cook with him and develop my skills.” the restaurant,” recounts Nores. “I was a food runner, a waiter, a bartender, a barista and then eventually I became a sommelier. But it was when working as head waiter in Francis Mallmann’s restaurant in Buenos Aires that he told me I should cook.

“When someone like Francis tells you this, then it is an opportunity you can’t say no to. So I started to cook with him and develop my skills. He is an icon in Argentina, a true culinary legend and his renowned ‘burnt’ food is to die for. So it was a tremendous honour to work for him and I will never forget what I learned.”

After receiving a culinary education from his idol, Nores then made the decision to further explore his love for cooking. Inspired by his

in the menu as the head chef was the nephew of the owner and needed some guidance. He was still very young and the menu was huge with more than 90 items, and there were all sorts of influences from Peru, Brazil, Mexico. We even had sushi,” explains Nores.

“But then I had the chance to come to Dubai as my wife got a job with Emirates and my very first interview was with Gaucho. I didn’t speak any English at all and they couldn’t understand why I wanted to work in the kitchen having seen that I had lots of management experience. But I explained that I wanted to work on the line and learn as much as possible.”

For two years Nores was part of the team that helped establish the FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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JUAN PABLO REY NORES This page, left to right: Seared scallops; Tira de Ancho

reputation of Gaucho in Dubai. As his skills in the kitchen improved, so did his English. Inevitably that led to offers and a stint at the Conrad Hotel as a sous chef. But soon he returned to Gaucho and this time it was as head chef.

“When I interviewed to return to Gaucho as head chef I was actually feeling a little drained as I had been working 13-14 hour days, with no weekends off. Then I saw that the menu had just been copied and pasted from the UK and I just told them that I wanted to create my own dishes,” says Nores.

“Luckily they agreed and I started the process. First I did the bar menu and now we only have one or two dishes remaining from the UK. Gaucho have shown great confidence in me and now I feel as though I can create Latin American dishes or take influences from other countries, and it will be fine.”

At Gaucho Nores has been able to express himself and is constantly working to improve the menu. Yet with the Argentine at the helm, you should not expect to see molecular gastronomy. There is no deconstructing of ingredients or immersion blending for fancy foams, instead the focus is on top class ingredients that have been expertly seasoned.

As Nores explains: “In fine dining you find lots of techniques and methods to do textures, but in terms of seasoning it comes from the heart. That you cannot teach in a culinary school. That is why my grandmother is such an inspiration from me. For her, the kitchen was always about keeping it simple.”

Nores has the same philosophy and is determined to keep things simple at Gaucho. At the same time though he is also trying to forge an identity for the Dubai branch of the restaurant. He wants to separate the chain from the outlets in the United Kingdom and Hong Kong and is aware the menu must reflect the tastes of those in the Middle East.

Having arrived in Dubai six years ago he now has expert knowledge on local vendors and is working more and more with fresh seafood.

“I love cooking with seafood and creating ceviche’s and main courses,” adds Nores. “We now have three different types of fish in the main courses and an amazing king crab salad. It comes from 62

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Russia and you barely have to do anything with it, just some olive oil and it is amazing.

“In Dubai we get to play around with different types of food and presentation has become very important. People here are more visual so our dishes are different to the UK, they are a little more complex.

That has helped us find our soul and now we are continuing to make small transformations for the market.”

Of course when it comes to Gaucho the vast majority of patrons will choose a steak for the main. The restaurant has become renowned for using the very best beef from Argentina and diners will receive an education from the waiting staff on the different cuts and even how the animals were raised.

It is something Nores takes great pride in, and his dedication to learning the art of cooking the perfect steak has seen him recently heading to London in order to work on one of the busiest grills in the capital.

“I was more of a chef than a griller so I went to London in February in order to do some training and really feel the pain,” says a clearly passionate Nores. “In all the other aspects I know what I am doing and even though I know how to grill, there is nothing quite like going to Piccadilly where you have 1,500 guests and you are grilling all the time. I was intense and super good at the same time.

“I wanted to improve on the grill and I certainly suffered for that. But it was only right as I was always told in Argentina that the best meat was exported. And when I arrived in Dubai I knew it was true as I had never tasted a steak quite like it.”

With Nores leading the success of Gaucho in Dubai, there are also plans for the company to expand their presence in the Middle East.

And despite being sworn to secrecy, he couldn’t help but provide a small insight into what to expect.

“Sadly I can’t say too much but we will be opening another Gaucho in the Middle East very soon,” confides Nores. “We are also brining our sister restaurant CAU to Dubai very soon. It is a beautiful concept which is more fresh and familiar. That will happen very soon and I can’t wait to continue my journey with Gaucho as it feels like my home.” www.gauchorestaurants.com/restaurants/dubai

Words: Adrian Back

“There is no deconstructing of ingredients or fancy foams, instead the focus is on top class ingredients that have been expertly seasoned.”

WORLD TRAVELLER

railway

HERSHEY Kevin Pilley takes us on a tour of Cuba’s only electric railroad

mbargoes are imposed and lifted. Revolutions come and go. But the landmarks and sights of Cuba remain the same.

Viejo Havana, the classic sedans, the human-powered bikitaxis, the Che Guevara Mausoleum in Santa Clara, the 1930 Hotel Nacional at Malecon, the 1929 El Capitolio, Hemingway’s Finca Vigia house, the Isle of Youth prison, Fidel Castro’s Finca Biran birthplace in eastern Oriente, and his final resting place, the Santa Ifigenia cemetery. And, of course, Hershey.

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And its centenary train ride which takes you back in time to when the largest island in the Caribbean boasted the best sugar in the world, supplying Coca-Cola. The beet fields had been destroyed in the First World War and the price of sugar doubled in two months in what was called “The Dance of Millions”. Milton S. Hershey became a very rich man and Cuba became inextricably linked with something as iconic as a classic finned Buick. The Hershey Chocolate Bar. Born in Dutch Mennonite Pennsylvania, confectioner and philanthropist Milton Snavely Hershey first worked as a printer but was sacked when he dropped his cap into the press. Training to make candy, he moved to Philadelphia and then worked for “Huyler’s” in New York. Specializing in caramel, he founded the “Lancaster Caramel Co”, selling it for $1m. With the proceeds, he started Hershey.

Cuba and the rest of the world would have never known if his wife hadn’t been taken ill and had cancelled their cabin on the “Titanic” in 1912.

“Cuba became inextricably linked with something as iconic as a classic Buick. The Hershey Chocolate Bar.” 64

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This spread, clockwise: The Cuban landscape; Old railway station, Cardenas; Cuban street musician; A beautiful view of Trinidad de Cuba; Architecture in Havana Central district; Interior of a1950’s classic American car; Hersey Train Carriage Interior

Designed not to melt in the tropical heat, Hershey Chocolates supplied the U.S. armed forces with “Ration D” bar during World War 11. Over three billion were distributed to servicemen. By the end of the war the Hershey plant in the dairy farmlands of Pennsylvania was making 24 million a week. Hershey died in 1945, aged 88. His birthday, September 13th, is International Chocolate Day. Cuba was one of his earliest ventures. In 1917, having bought sugar mills and established the model town of 180 homes 40 miles east of Havana, he opened a huge sugar refinery (central azucarero), suppling sugar to make his chocolate. He built a railway to shuttle perishable cane and his staff. Operations closed in 1946. The last sugar mill closed in 2002.

Cuba was once the world’s largest sugar exporter. Spaniards introduced it in 1512. Valle de los Ingenios, (Valley of the Sugar Mills ) outside Trinidad was centre of sugar production from the late 18th century until the late 19th century. Three valleys contained fifty sugar cane mills with 30,000 slaves. To prevent the sugar from spoiling, rapid transport was necessary, and a special railway line was laid to the port of Casilda. Sugar brought railways.

The UNESCO World Heritage site, the valley boasts the Manaca Iznaga plantation, owner’s house, “barracones” (slave quarters) and the 1816, 45m “Iznaga Tower”. Its bell announced the beginning and the end of the working day. It was also an alarm for slave escape.

After the collapse of the Russian “trade arrangement”, coinciding with a collapse in sugar prices, two thirds of sugar mills in Cuba closed. 100,000 workers lost their jobs. The Hershey train vividly tells that story as well as that of the revolution.

Three times a day, if the drivers feel like it, the train leaves from the blue station of Casablanca, a suburb of Havana across the

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This spread, clockwise: Hershey train station; Amazing view of Holguing province’s tropical beaches; Busy street of Old Havana; Callejon de Hamel in Havana; Centre of La Havana; Walking on the old railway line.

“The only electric train in Cuba, runs 52 miles for four hours to Matanzas passing through forty tiny stations”

harbour from the capital’s Old Town. The only electric train in Cuba, with a driver´s cabin at each end, it runs 52 miles for four hours to Matanzas passing through forty tiny stations. It costs ten pence.

Hershey is the midpoint.

You pass fields with goats and Brahman cows, guarded by egrets, putter through mango and banana groves, stopping at bus stop size stations. Passengers jump on and off. Tomatoes are passed through windows. The journey is through Cuban history.

Castro commanded his troops from the office of a sugar factory in the village of Australia during 1961 Bay of Pigs.

It takes you past Guanabo beach, Jibacoa (its “Super Club Breezes” all-inclusive resort was one of the first openings of the Cuban economy to foreign investment) and Canasi on the Via Blanca Highway.

Post-revolution, Hershey was renamed Camilo Cienfuegos.

Along with the Castros, Che and Juan Almeida Bosque, Cienfuegos (one hundred fires) was a member of the 1956 “Granma” expedition which launched insurgency against the dictator, Fulgencia Batista.

Camilo became a top guerrilla Comandate. He was known as the “Hero of Yaguajay” after a key battle. He also commanded a column capturing Santa Clara. He lived in New York and wrote for La Voz de Cuba (“The Voice of Cuba”). He played for Castro’s baseball team, “Barbudos” (The Bearded Ones) At a rally in 1959, Castro interrupted a speech to ask “¿Voy bien, Camilo?” (“Am I doing all right, Camilo?”) His response “Vas bien, Fidel” (“You’re doing fine, Fidel”) which became a slogan of the revolution. Camilo died in a plane crash.

You see the town’s name and the old Hershey sugar mill chimney.

You stand in Cuba , pre and post revolution.

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Words by Francesca Jackson. Photos by: Romeo Balancourt; Henry Hargreaves

molasses). People offer you split coconuts. Pelicans dive into the sea. The track winds around the coast to minimize gradients. Old ladies sun themselves on porches. Girls pose for photos for their fifteenth birthday (quinceanera”) on the famous train.

Single gauge, it’s the only surviving electric line in the country.

The original bone cars came from the JG Brill Company. These were replaced by cars from the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunja in the 1990s. There are four branches from the main line in current use, running to Playas del Este, Jaruco and Bainoa.

The line used to serve the Havana Club dark rum factory in Santa Cruz del Norte.

The maintenance facility is still in old Hershey, where reportedly somewhere is an original Brill car along with a GE steeple cab locomotive and a tower car to maintain the overhead catenary lines.

Line voltage is 1200 volts DC. Ties are concrete, rails are jointed (not continuous/welded) and power poles wooden, usually on the south side. There is usually a train buff somewhere on board.

When the Hershey line was constructed, the railway operator in Havana province, United Railways, refused to allow the Hershey train access to its tracks so a new terminus at Casablanca was built.

Journey’s end is Matanzas, the city of bridges ad Athens of Cuba, famous for its poets and rumba dancing. It means massacre after Spanish soldiers were killed by local fishermen. The final stop is the station in the barrio (district) of Versailles. In town, you can see the 1882 pharmaceutical museum, the 1863 Sauto Theatre and the Catedral San Carlos.

Not many single track trains start in the US and end up in a massacre, in Athens and Versailles.

But that’s Cuba.

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Why go?

Divided in half since 1974, Cyprus’s capital is a fascinating and enticing city that bears witness to its many invasions and occupations – Crusader, Venetian, Ottoman, British. Enjoy fine museums, gilded churches and sophisticated dining. November, with the weather still balmy and the mass hordes departed the island, is the perfect time to wander and ponder this complex yet captivating metropolis.

NICOSIA CYPRUS Discover a city steeped in history, rich in culture and with a passion for food

What to do The preserved Old City, built by Venetian conquerors in the 16th century, is the main draw. Start the morning with a strong Greek coffee and spend some time exploring the citadel walls, the outline of which is Nicosia’s distinctive logo. The Old City itself is a network of alleys that lead you past crumbling colonial houses and jewel-like Orthodox churches.

Stroll the route of the ‘Green Line’ to immerse yourself in the oldest and prettiest neighbourhoods or join a regular free walking tour. The sandstone Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Mansion (+357 22 305316) is a perfectly restored merchant’s house with a tranquil courtyard. Don’t miss the Cyprus Museum (+357 22 865854) which houses a fabulous collection of archaeological finds.

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CITY BREAKS This spread, clockwise: Greek churches; Greek eating; Nicosia City streets; The Architecture of Cyprus; Greek coffee; Kakopetria.

Where to stay The Hilton Cyprus hilton.com, Nicosia’s flagship hotel, has long been a meeting place for the great and the not always so good, and has the luxurious rooms, pools and fine dining you’d expect. The Classic Hotel classic.com.cy a chic mid- century-style block within the Old City walls, has fresh, modern rooms and marble bathrooms. For something more traditional, the Sandstone www.sandstonecyprus.com offers tastefully furnished rooms in an Old City house, with picturesque balconies, green shutters and pretty tiling.

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CITY BREAKS This page, clockwise: Dried fruits; Olives; Kleftiko slow-cooked lamb; Kakopetria; Nicosia City; Bread oven.

Where to eat Cypriots are passionate about food and it’s not hard to see why. The cuisine is not simply a melғ ange of Greek and Turkish, but has Middle Eastern influences too in its sumptuous stews, stuffed vegetables, cracked grains and pulses. Meze is the name of the game, so head to Zanettos Taverna www.zanettos.com a locals’ favourite, to savour plates of the best in town: specialities include smoked Cyprus sausage, meat marinated in grape and coriander, snails and grilled halloumi in pita. Afterwards enjoy fragrant Lebanese mahalepi washed down with Commandaria, Cyprus’s ancient dessert wine. For a taste of the Med inland, Pyxida pyxidafishtavern.com is a fabulous fish restaurant, offering fresh catch in a chic, modern setting – try the

tuna carpaccio, seabass or grilled octopus. No Reservations noreservationsrestaurant.com has had rave reviews for its innovative take on local ingredients – sample dishes are stuffed zucchini flowers with bagna cauda or rack of lamb with garlic sour cream. You’ll surely want to sample some street food too: Sham Food (+ 357 22 333381) does lip-smacking shawarma.

TIME RUNNING OUT Cafeғ culture is central to Nicosia life, so head to Ledras and Onasagorou street or Makarios Avenue late afternoon for frappeғs and people-watching.

Travel information Currency is the euro. Time is two hours ahead of GMT. Flight time from Dubai is around 4.25 hours.

GETTING THERE Emirates has direct daily flights from Dubai to Larnaca Airport, which is 40 kilometres from Nicosia. emirates.com RESOURCES Visit Cyprus website is the official Cyprus Tourism Organisation guide and, full of things to do in Nicosia and further afield on the island. visitcyprus.com TRIP TIP The Handicrafts Centre (+357 22 305024) is brimming with traditional lace, embroidery, ceramics and pottery and aims at preserving these ancient crafts through its in-house artisans.

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WORLD TRAVELLER

GRAND CANYON

RIVER DEEP, CANYON HIGH Between Arizona and Nevada, the grand American landscape showcases carving canyons, picturesque lakes and imposing dams

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t’s one of the most magnificent natural wonders of the world. Postcards and brochures only touch upon the sheer scale of the Grand Canyon. Its tortuous topography and ever-changing colours drop the jaw of every first-time visitor.

As I stand on its South Rim, I too am entranced. Squirrels bound silently between rocky ledges. All I hear is the

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whir of cicadas and the flitting swifts and wrens that fly between the ponderosas and pinyon pines. I feel refreshingly humbled by my insignificance.

Looking across to North Rim from Mather Point and Yavapai Point (16km away as the eagle flies) is a spectacular geological gallery sculpted and painted over millennia. It’s a swirling canvas of Kaibab limestone, Coconino sandstone, hermit shale, and Vishnu schist basement rock, itself 1.7 billion years old. And below me on the canyon floor is the 2,250km-long Colorado River, which arrives from the Rocky Mountains. It weaves through 445km of the Grand Canyon, into Lake Mead, and onto the Californian Gulf.

This spread: View over the Grand Canyon at sunset

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WORLD TRAVELLER GRAND CANYON

“Mesmerising canyon views twist and contort in all shades of ochre-red, purple and plum.”

VILLAGE PEOPLE The Grand Canyon National Park was designated as such in 1919. And in 1979, it became a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Here at Grand Canyon Village, President Roosevelt implemented a Civilian Conservation Corps camp during the 1930s economic depression. Over a decade, around 40,000 young men contributed to conservation work, learning skills such as masonry, carpentry and bookkeeping along the way.

One prominent local from the time was Mary Colter. Walking along the rim, I reach the Lookout Studio, designed by the master architect herself. Colter constructed the building in rustic Kaibab limestone, offering staggering views over the canyon. Nearby is the five-storey, Kolb Studio, dressed in attractive logs. Clasping dramatically onto the canyon walls, this was the early 20th-century home and photography studio of the Kolb Brothers. They shot images of tourists heading down the canyon on sturdy-footed mule trains. Inside are historic photographs, a vintage film projector, and the canvas boat in which the brothers explored the Colorado River.

The young members of the Civilian Conservation Corps built the staircase behind the studio. They also constructed and maintained thousands of kilometres of national park trails across the USA. Mesmerising canyon views twist and contort in all shades of ochre-red, purple and plum. Reaching the trailhead for Bright Angel Trail, I follow a section of its 13km descent, passing through a scenic tunnel and a wall featuring Native American petroglyphs. A series of rubbly switchbacks hug redwall limestone walls on this trail originally used by the Havasupai people who farmed at Indian Gardens below.

Hardy hikers puff passed me, having climbed up from Phantom Ranch (a stone lodge at the canyon’s base, also designed by Mary Colter). They’re coated in sweat and dust, and in smiles of 74

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achievement. One excited couple talks of spotting an elk in a cave.

The trail is still serviced by mules that carry less energetic visitors.

NATIVE AMERICAN RESERVES It’s a new dawn, and today I travel to Hualapai Reservation at Grand Canyon West. On ancestral lands around 250km west of Grand Canyon Village, the Native American community reside just outside the national park.

At Hualapai Ranch, the old Wild West is re-enacted for tourists with lasso throwing and wagon rides. Wrangler-led horse-riding is on offer in the arena or along the rim. I head to the Native American cultural village at Eagle Point to see examples of traditional dwellings of various tribes, including that of the Hopi and Havasupai people.

I find buffalo hide-lined tipis, and mud and wood-constructed hogan huts. Traditional performances take place in the open-air amphitheatre, and stallholders offer Native American jewellery, arts and crafts.

Eagle Point is also home to the recently opened Sa’Nya-Wa Restaurant, offering traditional Hualapai dishes fusing Southwest and Asian flavours. And beneath it is the famous Skywalk, where the vertigo-free step out onto a horseshoe-shaped glass bridge suspended 4,000ft above the canyon floor. I’m most taken with the narrow escarpment beyond, resembling a giant bald eagle with outstretched wings. The Hualapai people believe it’s a protective spirit looking over them.

Reaching Guano Point is a breath-stealing moment. Its short but spectacular Highpoint Hike tracks a narrow promontory. The terrain is rough and rubbly, and without safety rails, but when taking in the 360o views of its steep ramparts plummeting down to the Colorado River, the sense of remoteness is arresting.

This spread, clockwise: Grand Canyon sunset view; A mud and wood hogan hut; The breathtaking views towards North Rim; The Grand Canyon’s walking trails; Descending the canyon; The colours of the Grand Canyon

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“Postcards only touch upon the sheer scale of the Grand Canyon; it drops the jaw of every first-time visitor.”

The afternoon sun blends the canyon’s palette of colours to an incandescent orange. Meaty black ravens perform aerobatic swoops and loops off the precipitous ridge, cutting the silence with their glottal call. Devoid of wind, or even a breeze, I watch others bask in the timeless beauty of this ancient land, as heat bakes the afternoon to a standstill.

LAKES, GORGES AND DAMS On my last day exploring America’s sensory southwest, I head just west of Grand Canyon West. Hemenway Harbour is where the Colorado River pauses. At Lake Mead, I board the Desert Princess, a Mississippi-style paddle-wheeler. The lake is 177km long (when filled) and boasts 885km of shoreline.

Cruising along, we view close up the cliffs of Hemenway Wall, mottled with schist rock and striated gneiss rock. We pass Boulder Island and Sentinel Island, but it’s the extinct volcano of Fortification Hill that’s most attractive, with its raspberry ripple-like slopes.

Lake Mead is home to rainbow trout and catfish, and in the canyons around it, mule deer, coyotes, bobcats, bighorn sheep, and desert tortoises reside. Our skipper has us keep an eye open for the endangered peregrine falcon.

Various States draw much of their drinking water from Lake Mead.

It irrigates fruit, vegetable, hay and cotton farms in South Nevada, South California and Mexico. And it is America’s largest man-made reservoir—all thanks to Hoover Dam. After repeated floods in the early 1900s, the Colorado River burst its banks causing major damage to riverside farms. Being too wild a torrent in spring, and just a trickle in winter, farmers called for a dam to control water flow and distribution. Black Canyon was selected as the best spot.

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In 1929, engineer, philanthropist and President, Herbert Hoover negotiated an agreement between the seven states that shared water rights: Nevada, Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, California, Wyoming and Colorado. Construction for Boulder Dam began in 1931, with Boulder City constructed for the workers. With the dam completed in September 1935, Roosevelt named Boulder Dam (renamed in 1947 to Hoover Dam).

As our boat navigates Black Canyon, it’s thrilling to think we are floating near the top of Hoover Dam, on the other side of which is a 220-metre drop. With that ominous thought in mind, I book myself onto a group tour of this National Historic Landmark.

Arriving at the mighty structure, we descend 64 metres into the belly of Hoover Dam to see first-hand how this feat of engineering works. Exposed volcanic conglomerate rock appears cold and wet.

We view the pipes that transfer 96,000 gallons of water per second to the power plant’s generator turbines, which supply power for 1.3 million people in various states. You don’t need to be an engineer

WORLD TRAVELLER GRAND CANYON

This spread, left to right: Hoover dam; Grand Canyon; A black raven soars above Guano Point ; The Mike O’Callaghan-Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge as seen from Hoover Dam; A traditional tipi at Grand Canyon West

Travel Information

Words & Images: Marie Barbieri

Getting there Emirates flies daily between Dubai and Las Vegas (via Seattle or San Francisco). www.emirates.com

to be impressed by that. A circular black and white floor pattern underfoot represents the Native American symbol for water and power.

Heading back up, I walk across Hoover Dam’s 379-metre crest.

With Lake Mead to my left, and the Colorado River slithering hundreds of metres below to my right, I’m again humbled with an appreciation for what humans can achieve.

Midway, I cross the state border of Nevada and Arizona. It’s a great vantage point from which to view the enormous intake towers.

A moment for reflection comes at the memorial dedicated to 96 souls that lost their lives constructing the dam. It reads: They died to make the desert bloom.

From canyon to dam, I leave the USA feeling utterly enthralled by its indigenous heritage, its magnificent natural landscapes and its ingenious manmade structures.

Touring Grand Canyon Tour & Travel offer a variety of Grand Canyon, Lake Mead and Hoover Dam itineraries. Once at the canyon, free shuttles operate on a loop. Travel from Las Vegas (with courtesy hotel pick-up and drop-off) by deluxe coach or bespoke Mercedes Benz Sprinter. For a variety of itineraries and packages, visit: www.grandcanyontourandtravel.com Visas Travellers to the USA require a visa (except citizens of a country on the visa waiver program). For further information, visit: www.travel.state.gov Resources www.nps.gov/grca FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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masterclass

V E G E TA R I A N We celebrate World Vegetarian Day with mouth-watering recipes to tempt every palate

FRUITY COUSCOUS WITH ALMOND MILK PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: MARGARET STEPIEN RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: WASSIM KARAM

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RATATOUILLE WITH POACHED EGG RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

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ASPARAGUS, BUFFALO MOZZARELLA AND FETA QUICHE RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

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FOOD FOCUS

LENTIL, MUSHROOM AND CASHEW BURGERS

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FOOD FOCUS BULGER WHEAT, TOMATO, FETA AND POMEGRANATE SALAD RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

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CARDAMOM OATMEAL WITH FRESH POMEGRANATES, RASPBERRIES AND RAISINS

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AVOCADO AND PEA DIP RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

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SWEET POTATO, CHICKPEA AND DRIED FRUIT FALAFEL

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GAUCHO DUBAI ocated in the heart of the DIFC, Gaucho Dubai offers you the opportunity to dine in luxurious style, surrounded by contemporary glamour and chic décor. Whether you choose to dine al fresco or simply to meet with friends for a cocktail in the lounge, Gaucho provides the perfect place to enjoy fine Argentine food and grape; with its famed Argentine beef, succulent signature steaks, sizzling seafood and tasty vegetarian dishes. We visited Gaucho on a Friday; the weekend brunch - roast dinner and à la carte menus are all available and equally inviting. Our first impressions were mixed, the service was certainly warm and friendly but a little inconsistent. The food however lived up to our expectations. We were literally spoiled for choice between the brunch, roast and main menu. After much consideration, we decided to try the selection of steak, ‘When in Rome and all that …!” The platter included; Rib eye, Sirloin and Fillet; the meat was tender and succulent, and the perfect shade of pink and ruby in the middle – just the way a medium-rare steak should be. The steaks were accompanied by a selection of sauces from mushroom, peppercorn, garlic, and our personal favourite the signature ‘Gaucho Sauce’ that was smooth and full of flavour. The rib-eye had been prepared with a

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sprinkling of salt, and was cooked to perfection, the meat had been well rested, and cut easily; the fillet steak was also delectable; but the sirloin was a tad fatty and perhaps a little on chewy side. The Roast Dinner looked appetising and again the meat was cooked well; the only slight reticence we had over the meal was the quality and taste of the vegetables and side dishes that didn’t live up to the stars on the plate - the roast potatoes looked inviting but were hard in the middle and soft to the touch, the vegetables were overcooked and covered in oil, and the Yorkshire pudding was wanting. There is an excellent selection of grape to choose from, for those looking for a fine accompaniment to their meal; and the grape recommendation from our well informed and knowledgeable server was spot on - ideally complementing our meal.

Although there were a couple of small issues, they certainly didn’t diminish what was otherwise an enjoyable meal – If you are looking for a chic steakhouse that serves premium cuts of the finest Argentinian beef, a broad selection of grape, in a memorable atmosphere, then you should certainly pay a visit to Gaucho Dubai. www.gauchorestaurants.com

COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS APPS HOTELS FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

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Where to

Tried&Tasted EAT

With autumn upon us, we celebrate Thai style, enjoy Cuban fusion in Bahrain, savour seafood in Bali and visit a clandestine Kensington classic serving stupendous roasts

Pai Thai Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai ocated on the serene waterways that meander gently around Dubai’s Madinat Jumeirah, Pai Thai restaurant offers a culinary journey through Thailand’s exquisite cuisine; flavour-packed dishes and breathtakingly romantic surroundings make any meal at Pai Thai a special occasion. As the Thai celebration of Loy Krathong approaches, Pai Thai has curated a special three-course sharing menu that includes unlimited starters, mains and desserts ordered on rotation and perfect for sharing. Savour old favourites and new dishes created exclusively for the occasion by chef Chef Aphichat Amatmontri, the Loy Krathong menu features starters such as Som Tam Je, a green papaya salad, tomato, apple, cashew nuts with tamarind dressing; Gai Hor Bai Toey, crispy marinated chicken wrapped in pandan leaf, and a new appetiser; Sa Khu Na Goong, crispy prawns, with garlic, coriander, and breadcrumbs.

Mains include Gaeng Panang Gai, chicken red curry; Phad Phed Nuea, wok fried beef red curry, long beans, Thai eggplant, and new addition, Pla Yang Sa Moon Pai, grilled seabass fish fillet; aromatic and vibrant dishes burst with the flavours of Thailand. And as part of the celebration you will be entertained by Pai Thai’s resident dancer who will perform on a floating abra on the Madinat Jumeirah waterways.

The Loy Krathong 2017 menu is available for dinner between November 1 to 14. To discover more call +971 4 432 3232 or visit Jumeirah.com

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CHINO LATINO BRUNCH Located at Gallery 21 in Bahrain’s famous Block 338, Asia de Cuba has been making waves ever since it opened earlier this year. The internationally renowned Chino-Latino restaurant, lounge brings its own unique culinary twist; the innovative menu, created by Cuban-born Executive Chef Luis Pous, brings that perfect marriage of Asian and Latin flavours and techniques. The Asia de Cuba Chino Latino Friday Brunch offers live stations, a sharing feast bursting with signature dishes, as well as a live DJ and to ensure there is something for the whole family a dedicated playroom for the kids. Indulge yourself in the four-course menu, which begins with a selection of small plates, such as pastelitos, chicken chicharrones, shrimp churros and black bean hummus, followed by a Caja China with Pescado a la Parrilla, Lambchon and Cuban Marinated beef Chuck Roll. Visit the ceviche and carving stations, as well as a mouth-watering selection of dessert including, Dulce de Leche fountain, home-made Mexican Doughnuts and Arroz con Leche. And if that is not enough the fun continues after brunch with the Why Not Stay After Party in the Cigar Lounge and Rooftop Bar. The Chino Latino Brunch is served on Fridays from 1pm till 4pm, prices start at $80pp. For more information call +973 17711600 or email reservationsbh@asiadecuba.com

Words by Stephanie Dobrijevic; Blossom Green; Imogen Lepere Photos by TTim Martin; Bailey Cooper; Irezz Pratama

Asia de Cuba Bahrain

Eat

Tried & Tasted Opposite page, clockwise: Pai Thai; a selection of dishes at Asia De Cuba; Asia De Cuba terrace; Pai Thai's sticky rice and mango; Pla Yang Sa Moon Pai. This page, clockwise: Japanese-leaning cuisine at Seasalt; art on a plate in Seminyak; grouse is a speciality; a taste of the country inside Maggie Jones

Global Gourmet Seasalt Seminyak, BALI

Where better to feast on the freshest seafood than on the balmy banks of the Bali Sea? While it’s part of the chic Alila hotel, modern restaurant Seasalt stands on merit as a dining destination in its own right. Light, Japanese- leaning plates are the order of the day and tickling white sand in the middle of a tropical paradise, it seems appropriate. While the vibe is easy – think a stylish blue-hued seaside residence and linen-clad diners – the food is both creative and refined.

Vibrant vegetarian dishes such as avocado-laced Kyoto

hummus with raw broccoli and edamame truly sing, as do roasted beets with slivers of sweet potato on a bed of carrot and red miso purée. Bonito, from sea-to-table, packs a punch with dashi mayo and wasabi, while local baramundi with ginger is a thing of beauty. Salt-baked snapper (below) is a good sharing dish to ensure there’s room for dessert. Simply named, ‘Citrus’ is our pick, featuring Bali lime sabayon, orange gel and lemon milk sorbet. For a touch of coastal cool and clean eating, this gem is as good as it gets. BG. +62 361 3021 889, seasaltseminyak.com

TIMELESS CLASSIC

Maggie Jones Kensington This former haunt of Princess Margaret remains true to its perfect formula of comfort food and cosiness From Trump to technology, we seem to be living in a time of flux, so it’s comforting to know that some things are a constant. Maggie Jones has sat in the heart of Kensington since 1964; a bastion of British eccentricity among the swell of expensive clothes shops and over-branded cafés that drift through this area like flotsam.

When it first opened, as Nan’s Kitchen, it quickly became a favourite with Princess Margaret and Lord Snowdon for its excellent service and discreet location in an unassuming alley off Kensington Church Street. The pair used to book under the alias Maggie Jones, slip into an intimate wooden booth and order chicken pie. Eventually the restaurant changed its name to honour the royal connection.

The pock-marked front door leads straight into the 1970s. Creaky wooden floorboards and scrubbed pine tables are reminiscent of an Alpine ski chalet, while the walls and ceiling are adorned with what looks like the contents of every curio shop on Portobello Road.

An abominably large Welsh dresser strains under the weight of mismatched willow pattern plates and old kitchen utensils, while everything from cartwheels to baskets of lavender dangle above. The top floor, with its sloping eaves, is the perfect place to while away a November afternoon. However, you’ll need to book early to wrestle a table away from the army of regulars who now consider a roast at Maggie’s an essential element of their Sunday ritual. It’s fair to say that Martin Anteria Silva – who has been executive chef for more than 30 years – has very little interest in trends. His menu is made up of beautifully cooked nursery favourites such as liver and bacon, given a smart edge for the sophisticated London clientele. Rich onion soup with glistening pools of butter on top transports us to rustic country kitchens, while a huge portion of smoky fish pie with a crown of neatly piped mash is as comforting as a hot bath on a chilly evening.

Fluffy bread and butter pudding with intensely spiced raisins and custard is living proof of the maxim that practice makes perfect.The rates are reasonable for London, but the place would still be packed if they weren’t. The truth is that Maggie Jones has something you can’t put a price on; the ingredient which we all crave now more than ever – authenticity. IL. +44 20 7937 6462, maggie-jones.co.uk

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Places to

Stay

This month, we enjoy all out Maldivian luxury, channel creative cool in Miami, rub shoulders with the ‘it’ crowd at London’s launch of the year, live like a Sultan in Dubai, and cosset ourselves in Cambodian luxury

Following extensive renovations Anantara Angkor Resort is an allsuite retreat, has unveiled two luxurious presidential suites: the Henri Mouhot and Anantara Explorer Suites. The two-bedroom, 235m2 Henri Mouhot Suite pays tribute to the French naturalist and explorer, and first westerner, to set eyes on the ruins of Angkor, capital of Cambodia’s ancient Khmer civilisation; and the 178m2 one-bedroom Anantara Explorer Suite which is inspired by another intrepid explorer, Jim Thompson, and founder of the world renowned Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company.

Meticulously designed to accommodate the requirements of the most discerning clientele, the two suites are reminiscent of a Khmer summer home and are the epitome of old world sophistication, with imported Thai silk and fabrics overflowing throughout, draping the furniture in bold colours. With ample indoor and outdoor living spaces to comfortably accommodate families or small groups, both suites feature a lounge and bar area complete with a grape humidor; two dining areas; marble bathrooms, bathtub and oversized rain shower; dressing room; a private spa room with a Jacuzzi bath tub, deep plunge and massage area; and a plunge pool in an enclosed private garden.

In the Henri Mouhot Suite, a beautiful sandstone relief pay homage to the nearby ruins of Angkor amidst a colonial backdrop of tongue and groove ceilings, whilst a decorative wall panelling separates the master bedroom and lounge in the Anantara Explorer Suite. Each suite offers a luxurious welcome respite after an adventurous day of exploring one of the most important archaeological sites in Southeast Asia, whether savouring a decadent bubbly high tea or al fresco dining on progressive Khmer cuisine under the stars. The Anantara Angkor Resort offers all its guests complimentary chauffeured roundtrip airport transfers; butler service to create bucket list adventures; unlimited private tuk tuk transfers to and from city centre; personal mobile phone; complimentary insuite bar; bottled water; daily fresh fruit, savouries and sweets; and complimentary drinks during the daily Lounge Hour in the resort’s traditional courtyard that evokes Angkor’s monumental heritage. And if you are residing in either the Henri Mouhot or Anantara Explorer Suite, you will also enjoy complimentary laundry service; insuite spa treatments; and a daily hour long treatment at Anantara Spa. To discover more or to make a reservation contact +855 63 966 788 or angkor@ anantara.com

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QASR AL SULTAN DUBAI Qasr Al Sultan is a new lifestyle boutique hotel situated in the Dubai desert, not far from Dubai Parks and Resorts.

The décor is inspired by Sultan’s of days gone by, with features drawn from nature and the Dubai landscape to deliver a natural relaxing atmosphere. Privacy is paramount at the hotel and each of the twelve suites have their own private entrance, secluded parking, Jacuzzi, and private gardens; with a personal butler, available to cater for your every need. Other facilities in each suite include a plush majlis seating area, and a study complete with writing desk. Qasr Al Sultan is a short walk from the bakhoorscented majlis, traditional souk, food bazaar, library, playground and the historical Dukan Zaman exhibition.

For more information visit www.qasralsultan.ae or email reservations@qasralsultan.ae

Words by Rosemary Barron; Stephanie Dobrijevic; Lizzie Frainier; Blossom Green; Mark Sansom Photos by Todd Eberle; Felix Hug; Nik Koenig; Simon Brown; Alex Abril

Anantara Angkor Resort CAMBODIA

Sleep

Tried & Tasted

MILAIDHOO MALDIVES Get ready to swoon over every inch of design on Milaidhoo Island. Opened at the end of 2016, this Maldives resort has tip-top interiors and exteriors to match the standout natural beauty of the island. All of the thatched-roof villas (beachside or overwater) come with freshwater infinity pools, hanging swing chairs, oversized daybeds and 180-degree views of the Indian Ocean and its infinite shades of sparkling blue.

Inside, you’ll find bright pops of hot pink and marine blue in the soft furnishings, set off by sleek white walls. Look out for fun details like the clock that resembles a seaplane, a TV hidden behind framed art and fresh tropical fruit is delivered daily under a glass dome. The huge bathrooms are a highlight, decked out with honeycomb tiles, full-size Acqua di Parma

toiletries and custom-made baths for two. The whole space is made for combining indoor and outdoor living, with sliding glass doors that can be completely pulled back. If you do leave your villa (trust us, it’s hard), there’s a whole underwater world to be explored in the Unesco-protected Baa Atoll that’s quite literally on your doorstep. Let the current take you round as you linger a while to watch fish darting in and out of sea anemone. For a particularly special experience, be sure to book a lunch on the nearby sandbank where you’ll spend your day picnicking on fresh sushi and champagne in the middle of the ocean. Swim, relax, eat, repeat. Round off your day with dinner under the sails at Ba’theli – three traditional fishing boats in the water serving fabulous local dishes such as Maldivian lobster curry and pandan-wrapped yellowfin tuna. LF. Half board from $1.055. milaidhoo.com

FAENA HOTEL MIAMI BEACH

THE NED LONDON

This hotel may only be two years old, but its five bars, three restaurants and elegant poolside have already established it as one of the best in the city. In its former incarnation, this beguiling Art Deco hotel around ten minutes north of South Beach was a hangout for Frank Sinatra and his Hollywood chums. Today, it’s at the heart of the Faena District, where the arrival of a dynamic arts centre has transformed the neighbourhood.

The cool crowd channel their inner Tennessee Williams while downing cocktails at the Living Room bar amid a riot of red velvet, gold palm trees and tiger print. Meanwhile in Los Fuegos restaurant, Argentine chef Francis Mallmann invokes gaucho-cooking in its purest form, with just fire, grill and meat. You’ll also find local grouper or wild king prawn, wood- oven empanadas, dulce de leche pancakes and a good grape list.

Retire to rooms splashed with rich red and turquoise and oceanfront balconies that blend the style of their deco past with modern comfort. Breakfast on blueberry beignets or a South Beach scramble of avocado, local crab and fresh fruit before the nearby pool and swathe of sandy beach entice you on a stroll past palm trees and Damien Hirst’s gilded woolly mammoth skeleton sculpture. RB. Doubles from $415. faena.com

It’s simply impossible not to be impressed by the endless style revealed at every turnat The Ned. It was the most hotly anticipated hotel launch in the UK this year and lives up to billing. The scale is huge, which is a fine excuse to revisit, if you ask us. Columns of green verdite marble frame the lobby – home to seven restaurants and bars – where up to 1,000 people can be found milling through at any one time. It’s got all the hustle of New York’s Grand Central station, without any of the stress. Live jazz and French classics drift from the Nickel Bar, providing an easy backdrop to a peoplewatching afternoon where you’ll likely spot a famous face or two. Soho House and the Sydell Group have done a fine job converting the Grade-I Midland Bank HQ, which was designed by the eponymous Ned Lutyens in 1924. Attention to detail is outstanding: think Twenties deco- glam meets modern luxe with a number of Lutyen’s hallmark features. Grand bedrooms (252 in total) reveal plush velvet, a rich colour palette, vintage pieces, ornate textiles and palm-leaf chandeliers, as well as the biggest baths you’ll ever slump in. Elsewhere, don’t miss The Vault, a cool bar housed in the old safe deposit; the rootop pool area for its chilled vibe and cityscapes; and Cowshed spa with its dusky-pink hammam. A bone fide staycation and our new favourite crashpad – The Ned, we salute you. BG. Doubles from $275. thened.com

NOVEMBER For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.

1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml

THE PANTRY PAGES 20-24

Spiced sweet potato casserole with marshmallows SERVES 4

Creamy tofu dip with honey and cumin roasted vegetables SERVES 4

200g silken tofu, drained Zest of ½ lemon and 2 tbsp. juice 1 tsp onion powder 1 ½ tbsp. Japanese rice vinegar ½ garlic clove, crushed 2 tsp Dijon mustard 1 bunch dill, fronds picked and chopped 350g baby carrots, scrubbed 2 tbsp. olive oil 2 tbsp. runny honey 1 tbsp. cumin seeds Handful chopped parsley

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Put the tofu, lemon zest and juice, onion powder, vinegar, garlic and mustard in a blender and blitz until smooth, adding a splash of water to loosen if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and season generously.

Chill in the fridge until needed.

Preheat the oven to 200C, gas mark 6. Tip the baby carrots onto a large baking tray lined with baking paper. Drizzle with the olive oil, honey and cumin seeds and mix well. Roast in the oven for 25 minutes.

Fold the chopped dill into the dip. Arrange the carrots on a large serving plate, scatter over the parsley and serve with the dip.

2 large sweet potatoes, scrubbed 1 tbsp. olive oil 60g light brown sugar 55g butter, melted, plus extra for greasing 4 sprigs thyme, leaves picked 1 tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra for dusting ½ tsp finely grated nutmeg 25g walnuts, toasted and chopped Zest of half an orange 100g mini marshmallows

Preheat the oven to 200C, gas mark 6. Grease an ovenproof baking dish. Prick the potatoes several times with a fork. Rub all over with the oil, season

generously and cook for 45 minutes - 1 hour until very tender.

Once cool enough to handle, cut the potato in half lengthways and scoop the flesh into a bowl.

Discard the skin. Add the brown sugar, melted butter, thyme leaves, cinnamon, nutmeg, walnuts and orange zest. Season and mix well.

Transfer to the greased baking dish, spread out in an even layer and smooth the surface with the back of a spoon.

Arrange the marshmallows on top and cook for 12-15 minutes until the marshmallows are starting to turn golden brown. Dust lightly with cinnamon just before serving.

Crispy five-spice tofu with soy, sesame and ginger dipping sauce SERVES 4

600g firm tofu, drained 2 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tbsp. sesame oil 2cm piece ginger, finely sliced into matchsticks 2 red chillies, roughly chopped 3 tbsp. white sesame seeds 2 tbsp. mustard seeds 70g panko breadcrumbs 1 tsp Chinese five-spice 2 egg whites Vegetable oil, for frying Salad leaves, to serve Lime wedges, to serve

Arrange the tofu on a plate lined with kitchen paper and cover with more paper towels. Put a large plate on top, add a frying pan or chopping board, then weigh down with heavy cans or jars. Leave for at least 30 minutes. Make the dipping sauce by stirring together the soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger

and chilli. Add 1 tbsp. white sesame seeds and set aside.

Mix the mustard seeds, remaining sesame seeds, panko breadcrumbs and five-spice together, season generously and tip onto a plate. Whisk the egg whites together in a shallow dish until fluffy. Slice the tofu into rectangles approximately 5cm by 3cm.

Dip the tofu slices in the egg white, covering completely, then press into the sesame seed mix, turning to coat all over. Set a large non-stick frying pan with 2 tbsp. vegetable oil over a medium-high heat. Cook the tofu in batches for 1-2 minutes on each side until golden and crisp, adding more oil when necessary. Drain on kitchen paper and season with salt.

Arrange the salad leaves on a platter or board and add the tofu, lime wedges and dipping sauce.

Serve immediately.

Sweet potato, dark chocolate and cinnamon cookies MAKES 12-15

1 large sweet potato 1 tsp ground cinnamon 180g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 200g soft light brown sugar 1 egg 150g dark chocolate, chopped 80g pecans, toasted and chopped 280g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp sea salt flakes

Preheat the oven to 200C, gas mark 46. Grease and line 2 large baking trays with baking paper.

Prick the sweet potato several

times with a fork. Cook in the oven for 45 minutes -1 hour until very tender. Once cool enough to handle, cut the potato in half lengthways and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Discard the skin.

Add the cinnamon and mash until smooth.

Whisk the butter and sugar together in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg, then stir in the mashed sweet potato, dark chocolate and pecans. Sift over the flour, baking powder and salt and gently fold in. Drop heaped spoonfuls of the mixture onto the prepared trays and press lightly to flatten. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until golden.

Transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely.

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RECIPES

VEGETARIAN MASTERCLASS PAGES 78-85

Asparagus, buffalo mozzarella and feta quiche SERVES 6-8

Pastry dough: 300g flour 150g butter, cubed, plus 1 tbsp. for greasing

Cardamom oatmeal with fresh pomegranates, raspberries and raisins SERVES 2

100g rolled jumbo oats 4 crushed cardamom pods 250 ml oat milk 3 tbsp. pomegranates seeds 2 tbsp. raisins 6 raspberries Agave syrup to drizzle

Put the oats into a saucepan and add the crushed cardamom pods. Pour in the oat milk.

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Simmer for 10 min until the oats are cooked, stirring continuously.

Ladle into bowls and serve with pomegranates seeds, raisins and raspberries and a drizzle of agave syrup.

Filling: 130g asparagus tips 1 tsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 100g feta cheese, crumbled 125g buffalo mozzarella, cut in slices 3 organic eggs 300 ml crème fraiche 2 tbsp. fresh mint, finely chopped salt/pepper

To make the pastry dough, put the flour and butter into a large bowl and rub them together with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Add 4 tablespoons of chilled water and use a blunt kitchen knife to bring the dough together, then use your hands to shape it into a smooth ball. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead gently and briefly. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 min.

Preheat oven to 180 degrees and grease a 25cm fluted tart pan with a removable base.

Roll the chilled dough out on a lightly floured surface, then carefully transfer to the prepared pan, pressing it into the sides and trimming and discarding the edges.

Prick the dough with a fork and line with parchment paper and pie weights (baking beans). Sit the pan on a baking sheet and bake blind for 10 min. Remove the paper and beans and bake for another 10 mins, until lightly golden.

To make the filling, blanche the asparagus tips briefly in boiling water. Drain and rinse under cold water, then pat dry and set aside. Heat the oil in a skillet and sauté the onion until soft but not browned. Sauté the garlic and fry for 1 min. Spread the onions and garlic over the pastry, then add the asparagus tips, buffalo mozzarella and feta cheese.

Whisk the eggs with the crème fraiche, add mint, and season with salt and pepper. Pour into the pastry shell, then return to the oven and bake for 30 min, or till the filling is golden and just set.

Remove from the oven and let set, then slice and serve while still hot.

Ratatouille with poached egg SERVES 2

Avocado and peas dip SERVES 4

2 ripe avocados 100g fresh or frozen peas 3 tbsp. tahini Juice of 1 lemon 1 garlic clove ½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted Salt and pepper 1 small brunch mint, plus extra to garnish Handful pine nuts, toasted Lebanese bread, toasted to serve

Cook the peas in a boiling water for 3 min (less if fresh) and refresh immediately in cold water to retain colour. Combine all the ingredients,

except the pine nuts, in blender and until smooth. Garnish with the pine nuts and garnish with a sprig of mint and drizzle with olive oil Serve with Lebanese bread.

1 large onion, chopped 1 red pepper, deseeded and thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tbsp. chopped rosemary 1 aubergine - diced 2 courgettes diced 400g chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar 4 organic eggs Handful basil leaves Chopped chives 1 tablespoon olive oil

mins more. Add the tomatoes, then fill the can with water, swirl it around and tip into the pan, and bring to the boil. Then cover, and simmer for 40 min, uncovering after 20 min, until reduced and pulpy.

Stir the vinegar into the ratatouille, then make 4 spaces for the eggs.

Crack an egg into each space and season with black pepper. Cover, then cook for 25 min until soft or to taste.

Garnish with basil, chopped chives and serve with some crusty bread to mop up the juice.

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add onion, pepper, garlic and rosemary, then cook for 5 to 8 min, stirring frequently, until the onion has softened. Add the aubergine and courgettes, then cook for 3

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RECIPES

Lentil, mushroom, and cashew burgers SERVES 6

150g dried green lentils, rinsed 5 garlic cloves, 1 whole and 4 crushed 2 tbsp. olive oil 2 red onions, finely chopped 1 tsp Lebanese 7 spice seasoning ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon za’atar 250g chopped mushrooms 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 110g cashew nuts finely chopped 4 tbsp. bread crumbs 10 dried apricots or dry figs Sunflower oil for frying Salt, pepper Buns Lettuce, tomatoes, diced cucumber and sprouts Labneh to serve (optional)

Put the lentils into a saucepan with the whole garlic clove and cover with a boiling water. Cook over simmering heat for 35 min, or until 96

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the lentils are soft. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan and sauté the onions until they are soft and slightly coloured. Add the crushed garlic and spices and cook for 5 mins, until the onions begin to brown slightly, add the mushrooms to the bowl and mix together with a spoon. Set aside.

Drain the lentils before transferring them into a large bowl.

Mash with a fork until smooth, then add them to the mushroom mixture along with the chopped apricots or figs and season with salt and pepper. Mould the mixture into 6 patties with wet hands. if it is crumbly, put in the fridge for 30 min, until firm.

Heat a few tablespoons of sunflower oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add 2 patties and cook for 3 or 4 min. Turn carefully and cook the other side.

Repeat with the remaining patties.

Once cooked drain briefly on paper towels; then carefully transfer onto a plate and serve with the buns, lettuce , sliced tomatoes and finally add labneh, diced cucumbers and sprouts .

Bulgur wheat, tomato, feta and pomegranate salad SERVES 4-6

250g wheat, rinsed 2 tomatoes ½ cucumber 4 tbsp. olive oil 2 tbsp. pomegranate molasses Pinch of salt 1 small brunch mint leaves coarsely chopped 1 small brunch parsley leaves coarsely chopped 150g chopped walnuts 200g feta cheese crumbled Seeds of 1 pomegranate

Put the wheat in a saucepan with 500 ml water, salt and a tablespoon of olive oil. cover with

a lid and bring to boil over medium heat. Turn the heat down to a simmer and cook until the grains become tender, adding more water if necessary. it will take about 50 min. When cooked, drain off any excess water and let the wheat cool.

For the dressing, combine 3 tablespoons of olive oil, the pomegranate molasses, half of the chopped mint and parsley, salt and mix well. in another bowl, combine the wheat with the rest of chopped herbs, tomatoes, and cucumber, feta, and pomegranate seeds and mix well. Pour over the dressing and toss together.

Sweet potato, chickpea and dried fruit falafel SERVES 8

200g sweet potato ½ onion 1 garlic clove 1 tbsp. olive oil 240g chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 orange 10g raisins or cranberries 20g dates 50g chickpea flour 1 punch of salt 3 tbsp. chopped mint 3 tbsp. chopped parsley 25g almonds 25g hazelnuts To serve: 1 lettuce 1 tbsp. tahini 2 tbsp. pomegranate molasses or fresh orange juice 1 soy yogurt pot or milk yogurt Pinch of cumin 1 pomegranate

Peel the potato and cut it into pieces, cook in small amount of water for about 20 min till tender.

Heat olive oil in a sauce pan and sautĂŠ the onion and garlic until soft but not brown. Combine sweet potato, onion, garlic and chickpeas and mix well. The mixture should be smooth but retain some texture.

Addthe orange zest, raisins, and chopped dates, flour, herbs and pinch of salt. Put in the fridge for about 30 min. In a blender mix the almonds and hazelnuts till they become a powder.

Heat oven to 180 degrees, make some nice rounded falafel patties and roll into the almond, hazelnut crumbs. cook for about 30 min.Rinse the salad leaves and dry them . Mix tahini and pomegranate molasses (or orange juice), yogurt and cumin. Place 2 falafel patties on a salad leave, add yogurt and pomegranate seeds and serve.

Fruity couscous with almond milk SERVES 4

200 ml almond milk Pinch of cinnamon, ginger, vanilla, cardamom 3 tbsp. coco sugar 120g fine semolina 30g butter 5 figs 8 grapes halved 6 raspberries 5 almonds chopped 5 pistachios chopped 2 tablespoons cranberries Zest of one lemon Honey to drizzle

Remove from heat and pour the semolina in all at once, mix well, cover and let rise 5 min. Add 30g of butter and fluff with a fork. Halve the figs, grapes and raspberries and gently fold with zest of lemon, chopped almonds, pistachios and cranberries. Let cool and put it in the fridge.

When serving drizzle honey over the top.

Heat almond milk in a saucepan over medium heat with spices and coconut sugar .

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Clockwise from top: Chef John Burton-Race; Grosvenor Hotel, Torquay; Lynmouth harbour, North Devon; Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche; Singapore street food; dessert at Lympstone Manor; wine in Provence

LAST WORD WITH

John Burton-Race

The globetrotting chef learnt his trade in South East Asia and has found home in Devon, by way France and the Middle East.

Where did you last go on holiday? Every September I go to Crillon le Brave in Provence. The food at both of its restaurants is amazing and at Bistrot 40K all the ingredients are sourced within 40km of the hotel. I believe good food is 50 per cent excellent ingredients and the rest is down to the chef. The food in Provence is my favourite in France. They have red mullet and sea bass from the Mediterranean, powerful cheeses and a sweet wine called Pipi d’Ange, which is delicious and top value.

What are your earliest food memories? My father worked for the United Nations and I lived in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore, and went to school in Thailand. We always had local cooks and I remember sneaking into the kitchen and learning Asian techniques, such as tenderising chicken by marinating it in papaya, lime and chilli overnight. My grandma was an old-fashioned cook who used to serve very traditional English desserts like tipsy pudding. It’s a cross between Christmas and sticky toffee puddings, served with whisky caramel.

its own microclimate. It’s so warm that farmers can rear beautiful, tender lamb all year round. The shellfish is amazing: scallops from Babbacombe, crabs from Dartmouth and oysters from Bigbury. The cheese is fantastic, too.

Which restaurants do you like in the South West? I love casual places that champion regional food at a fair price point. The Maltsters

Arms at Tuckenhay does great seafood, but the best fish and chips is at Torcross Boathouse. My favourite pub is Tower Inn at Slapton, where Dominique Prandi cooks great value French cuisine. The newly opened Lympstone Manor, headed by Michael Caines isn’t cheap, but does excellent food.

What elevates a dish from good to great? There are loads of cooks out there who are very good technically and produce a

consistently high standard, and these tend to be your one-star Michelin level. I held two stars across three restaurants for 17 years, and in order to achieve two stars you have to go beyond technique. My style is constantly evolving. Traditional French is where my heart is and I rate Michel Roux Jr and Le Gavroche.

Where do you get your inspiration for a new dish? Eating out in France influences me more than anything. I

love their approach to food, the way every region has its own speciality and food is a way of life. Outside Paris you still get the two-hour lunch followed by an afternoon nap and you’ll see children of all ages in restaurants. I keep a young brigade who can feed off my knowledge and are eager to make their own mark, but the most important thing is enthusiasm, which keeps me experimenting.

To try John’s food, book a table at John Burton-Race at The Grosvenor in Torquay. grosvenorhoteltorquay.co.uk

Photos by Carl Pendle; Mark Parren Taylor; Issy Croker; Stefano Scata

What makes Devon’s natural larder so special? I’ll never move away from Devon. It’s one of the most beautiful places in the UK and has

Exuding European grandeur and urban glamour, discover a space that mirrors your sense of style. Visit Dubai this year and live the iconic Versace lifestyle in a cosmopolitan city that echoes the charms of tradition.

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