RTW special supplement
ready to wear fashion trends and forecasts
LEATHER FORECASTS A/W 2012-13
MEN’S ACCESSORIES S/S 2012
WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES F/W 2011-12
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Editor’s Letter
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Shoe retail in India is in the process of taking a giant leap as the industry is getting more organized with a large number of players coming into its fold. Eyeing the sizeable mall hopping consumers, India’s footwear manufacturers are now looking at retailing within India, either going ahead on their own or forging alliances with international partners.
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In today’s times, having the world’s largest footwear trade show such as ExpoRivaSchuh, Italy come to India and hold it’s first Indian Edition is really a turning point for our leather and footwear industry. This exciting market sign indicates that organized retailing is having a major impact on Indian producers as foreign investors explore their potential in the Indian footwear sector. With an aim to be a part of promoting this exciting industry, RTW’s Special Edition on Expo Riva Schuh India projects the very latest developments and trend information that will help your business effectively. I take this opportunity to thank Riva Del Garda Congressi, Italian Expositions Pvt Ltd, CLE as well as ITPO for extending their support towards RTW and allowing us to be a part of such a fantastic trade event. Please feel free to make comments and suggestions or to submit ideas you think RTW should pursue.
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CONTENTS EDITOR’S LETTER
04
EXPO RIVA SCHUH INDIA 2011 Interview | Roberto Pellegrini Interview | Giovanni Laezza Interview | M. Rafeeque Ahmed International Trade in Leather Sector Interview | Roney Simon Vision for Footwear Sector
08 10 11 12 14 15 16
MEN’S WEAR Accessories S/S 2012 Shoes Bags
17 18 22
WOMEN’S WEAR Accessories F/W 2011-12 Shoes Bags
25 26 30
LEATHER FORECASTs A/W 2012-13 Clariant Le Cuir a Paris
35 36 40
FASHION CALENDAR
44 Cover Credit Gucci F/W 2011-12
Jointly organized by
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1st edition
exporivaschuhindia
International shoes & leather accessories event More than just a fair. The opportunity to grow in a growing market.
28 | 29 | 30 | JULY | 2011 NEW DELHI, India | Pragati Maidan, Hall 14 - Gate 7 Information: Tel. +39 0464 570224 Fax +39 0464 570140 www.exporivaschuhindia.it • info@exporivaschuhindia.it In collaboration with ITPO
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ExpoRivaSchuhIndia NEW DELHI, INDIA Brought to India by Italian Exposition Pvt Ltd., Expo Riva Schuh India is an event that is here to provide an important opportunity to forge connections between supply and demand sources in the global market. With footwear and leather accessories showcased from round the world, Expo Riva Schuh India brings nearly 200 exhibitors on display. The participating countries are Italy, France, Spain, Austria and U.K alongside products from emerging Asian nations including Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Thailand, India and China. Some of the participating brands from Italy include labels such as Fabi, Fratesi, Giovanni Fabiani, Loriblu, Manas, Gruppo IMAC and De Fonseca. As per the Riva del Garda Fierecongressi President, Roberto Pellegrini, they have designed a format that ensures that they debut on the Indian market with a comprehensive offering ready to meet the needs of a very complex and constantly evolving situation. With approximately 40 million people with a medium-high income and almost 200 million belonging to the middle class, India has a vast consumer audience which is continually looking for high quality shoes that are comfortable, durable, and fashionable. For its debut edition, Expo Riva Schuh India has co-operated with the Indian Council for Leather Export (CLE), a non-profit agency which carries out international promotion and development work for the Indian leather industry under the auspices of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry. The agreement between the CLE and Expo Riva Schuh is particularly important because it ratifies a lasting co-operation on several fronts which goes beyond the individual fair. The CLE has set up an entire exhibition area at Expo Riva Schuh India, completely given to local Indian production. About 100 Indian exhibitors from all the leading production centres of the country are hosted in this area. The Thai Footwear Industry Association is also represented by a significant number of exhibitors from Thailand.
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Various Chinese organisations are also representing the country that is now confirmed as the leading production and export centre for footwear worldwide. In addition to the attendance of international organisms, the principal European production centres are represented by important delegations, particularly from Spain and Italy. These two countries are the leading producers of footwear in Europe. Italian production is around 225 million pairs, placing the country at eighth place in the world classification in terms of volume, while Spanish production is around 107 million pairs. Together, they account for 69% of
western European production. In addition to the strictly quantitative values, there is an interesting mix of volume production and that with a higher fashion content. The first edition of Expo Riva Schuh India therefore offers excellent business opportunities to international players who want to enter the Indian market, but also to Indian companies to meet partners to set up manufacturing and distribution cooperation with. A true business platform through which business and partnership agreements can be developed on the basis of the experience of the Italian fair at Riva del Garda.
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“Expo Riva Schuh India will be the first exhibition of the only finished product in this country� An interview with Roberto Pellegrini, President of Riva del Garda Fierecongressi - by Annou Iyer Why have you decided to organize a shoe and accessories fair in India? First of all, we decided to organize a shoe and accessories fair in India because it is one of the most important producing and consuming countries of leather shoes and accessories in the world. Moreover Expo Riva Schuh India will be the first exhibition of the only finished product in this country. We could not loose the opportunity to be the first to organize such a significant event among the international footwear industry. We also have a very long tradition and experience, more than 35 years, on international footwear exhibition thanks to the fair we have in Italy, Expo Riva Schuh, whose brand we also want to enforce in foreign countries. What about the partners with whom Expo Riva Schuh India was born? In order to realize a new exhibition in a foreign country we needed the big support and experience about Indian fair sector and footwear market: so we have cooperated with Council for Leather Exports to promote the fair among Indian footwear companies and with ITPO, that has given us also a very important support to the organization of the fair in the exhibition centre of Pragati Maidan. On the other part I must underline the very important role of the Italian side: first of all the Italian Government through the Ministry of Economic Development and the Italian Trade Commission, the Italian Chambers of Commerce (Unioncamere) and least but not last our local provincial Government (Provincia Autonoma di Trento). Is this shoe and accessories fair the first example of co-operation with the Indian market? This event is not the first time that we have co-operated with the Indian economic world, because in our fair Expo Riva Schuh, which takes place in Riva del Garda/ Italy two times a year (on January and on June), there are 130 Indian footwear companies attending every edition and they are coordinated by the Council for
Leather Exports. This has been the first step to realize the exhibition in India, so the support of CLE has been very important. The western economic system shows a big grew of exhibition in emergent countries. Why? The growing economies of the emergent countries also need to realize business meetings between the companies. Europe, that has got a very advanced know how in organizing fairs, most of all in Germany and in Italy, will have the big opportunity to export new exhibition projects in countries, where the knowledge among fairs are less developed.
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“Expo Riva Schuh India aspires to be a leader in the Indian footwear fair sector” An interview with Giovanni Laezza, General Director, Riva del Garda Fierecongressi - by Annou Iyer This international shoe and accessories fair has got a new concept. Can you describe it? Expo Riva Schuh India is a translation of our brand Expo Riva Schuh, to whom we have added for the first time the leather accessories sector (hand bags, gloves, belts, luggage, leather garments and accessories). For this first edition of the fair we have realized a business platform, so this exhibition can be considered not only a traditional fair, but it has been realized as a result of several services for the exhibitors and for the visitors. Can you explain the business platform? The event Expo Riva Schuh India is structured on several levels: in addition to the exhibition areas, the organization has arranged for a series of spaces and facilities for services dedicated to companies. Dealers will be able to go to a special information counter where trained staff will provide information and advice about specific topics, getting also the possibility to visit Indian manufacturers. The fair will be also an opportunity for business development and education, in attending meetings with industry professionals, numerous seminars, discussions, and workshops dedicated to fashion industry news, new distribution structures and important features of the Indian market. Moreover we have realized a complete package to attend the fair, including not only the exhibition area, but also the hotel accommodation, transfer and other important logistic services. The exhibition will feature a dedicated top fashion area. Can you explain this project? The Top Fashion Area, a designated space dedicated to all those companies presenting innovative and fashionable products, among shoes and leather accessories, is an important showcase for all major fashion brands that will have the opportunity to reach out to a wide audience of local and international
buyers with trendy and innovative products able to meet the requirements of India’s fast-growing market. India’s economic data show a significant increase in the population belonging to the middle class, enjoying a stronger purchasing power and being more and more careful to the trendy and fashionable aspect in products. Alongside the variety of reasonably priced quality products, Expo Riva Schuh India will also feature and promote a wide range of innovations and new trends coming from the big world of shoes and leather accessories. During the Expo Riva Schuh India, there will be also IILF (India International Leather fair). What do you think about this presence? I am very happy about the synergy
that has been created with ITPO and I hope to realize in the future other new co-operations with this Indian exhibition company, that has got an important experience in the fair Indian market. At the same time I wish also to continue the collaboration with Council for Leather Exports, with whom we have important agreements also in our Italian fair in Italy. Which is the prospective for the future of Expo Riva Schuh India? Our fair aspires to leader role in the Indian footwear fair sector. In the next future we aim to double the number of the exhibitors: we can affirm it referring to the current waiting list, result of the big interest that this event has created. Every choice will be done accordingly to the Indian partners, with whom we have already begin to discuss about the future editions of the fair.
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“India an attractive destination not only for sourcing but also for selling leather products and footwear” An interview with Mr M. Rafeeque Ahmed, Chairman, Council for Leather Exports - by Annou Iyer With Expo Riva Schuh, Italy entering India, how do you think this impact our Indian leather industry? The tremendous growth potential of Indian leather Industry coupled with the increasing domestic market for value added leather products and footwear, have made India an attractive destination not only for sourcing but also for selling leather products and footwear. As a result, we are witnessing a surge in marketing activities in recent years, including the emergence of new leather sector specific trade fairs in the country. Though many such leather sector specific fairs are held in India, there is no fair dedicated entirely to value added high quality leather products and footwear. The Expo Riva Schuh India Fair, a joint effort of Riva Del Garda Fierecongressi and Council for Leather Exports, will definitely fill this void by displaying the entire range of footwear and leather accessories. Our current export trends, with Italy and how can we improve the graph India’s export of leather and leather products to Italy have shown mixed trends. While the exports from India to Italy has increased from USD 317.04 million in 2005 to USD 490.76 million in 2007, it declined to USD 461.56 million in 2008 and to USD 398.58 million in 2009 due to the adverse impact of the global financial crisis. However, the exports to Italy have pickedup this year and the figures during April 2010 – February 2011 have reached USD 402.25 million showing a healthy growth of 10.56% over the same period last year which is a good sign. As the annual import of leather and leather products of Italy is USD 7710 million per annum, there is immense scope for further enhance our share in the Italian market, which is currently about 5.17%. The leather sectors in Italy and India have a long history of bilateral cooperation and this can only increase further in the coming years. On one hand, the increasing domestic market in India for leather products and footwear
production in China many companies are now shifting their production bases. We have to make use of this opportunity to attract the shift of production from China. The domestic market in India for leather products and footwear is also expected to double in the next 5 years from the present value of USD 3500 million and the Indian leather industry has set itself an export target of USD 8500 million to be achieved by 2016-17, which provide a world of opportunity for us to significantly enhance our manufacturing base.
provide greater opportunities for the Italian manufacturers and entrepreneurs for joint ventures, technical collaborations and also establishment of production centres in India while on the other hand, there is immense scope for the capacity modernization of Indian leather sector by making use of the Italian leather sector’s technical knowhow and design innovations. Thus, today the leather sectors of Italy and India are in a win-win situation and we have to fully make use of the tremendous potential available. Your views on India as a manufacturing hub? The manufacturing sector in India makes a significant contribution to the country’s economy. Though the share of the manufacturing sector in the country’s GDP has remained more or less stagnant at 16%, the vision of the Government is to enhance this to 25% by 2025. To achieve this objective, the Government has proposed creation of a number of National Manufacturing & Investment Zones (NMIZ) which will provide the required infrastructure platform for new manufacturing hubs. As far as the leather sector is concerned, due to the increasing cost of
With Italian leather brands looking at entering India in a big way, do you think this impacts our own budding brands ? With the boom in domestic market, it is quite natural that large number of brands are looking for India as a potential market. The entry of more overseas brands including Italian brands will definitely create competition for the Indian brands, but since the market is huge, there is space for everyone. With right marketing strategy and targeting the right market segment, Indian brands can make headway in Indian market. With the Indian leather industry largely being unorganized, the steps that our government can take to organize the Leather and Footwear Sector ? It is true that the leather industry is predominantly located in the Micro, Small and Medium segment. However, one has to appreciate the fact that on account of being concentrated in the clusters and in rural areas, the industry has been able to provide large scale employment to economically weaker sections of the society. The future growth of the industry too depends on creation of organized production centres where there is availability of raw materials, labour and good connectivity to port/airport. As far as existing production centres are concerned, the Government of India is already implementing the Indian Leather Development Programme (ILDP) wherein financial assistance is provided
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for core areas like capacity modernization and technological upgradation, environment protection, human resources development etc. Further, the dereservation of the industry has paved way for rapid expansion of the industry and setting-up of organized production centres across the country.
to be a comprehensive policy document to facilitate growth of the manufacturing sector in the country. I am sure that the immense growth potential for the leather industry in India and the proactive measures of the Government will help in attracting more overseas investments in to the leather sector in the coming years.
How can we enhance the international investments into the sector ? In order to achieve the export target of USD 8500 million by 2016-17, we have to substantially enhance our production capacities. Investment is one of the key factors which will determine the growth of the leather industry in the country. The Government of India is implementing an industry friendly Foreign Direct Investment Policy for the leather sector wherein 100% FDI is permitted under automatic route. Though FDIs are coming in to the leather sector, it is not on a larger scale. The Government of India will shortly be notifying a major scheme for capacity enhancement in leather sector. This scheme, called the Mega Leather Clusters Scheme, will be implemented to create large scale new production clusters in seven states in the country. Such clusters will have comprehensive and world class infrastructure and production facilities, support systems like Customs, Common Facility Centre, Resource and Development Centre etc. Besides, the Government of India is considering notification of the National Manufacturing Policy, which is expected
CLE’s role in the betterment of the industry The Council for Leather Exports (CLE) was established by the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India in 1984 as a prime export promotion organization for the leather sector. The late 1980s was the time when the leather industry was transforming itself from a supplier of raw materials to a manufacturer and exporter of value added leather products and footwear. Thus, new production units were comingup at that time in the major leather clusters of Delhi, Kanpur, Kolkata, Mumbai, Ambur, Chennai, Ranipet etc., and the challenge before the Council was in enhancing the export. In order to achieve this, aggressive marketing efforts were initiated which paid rich dividends in consolidating and expanding our market share in the traditional markets of Europe and USA. The 1990s saw the period of liberalisation of the Indian economy which opened-up new vistas for the Indian leather industry. Then, we witnessed the de-reservation of the industry, which paved way for expansion of the industry. All through these years, the Council for Leather Exports played an active role in helping the Government
to formulate suitable policies and procedures for the overall growth and development of the Indian leather sector. As a result of the pro-active role of the Government, CLE and the industry, we have seen the increase in export of leather and leather products from USD 493 million in 1984-85 to a projected USD 3840 million in 2010-11. In the recent years, besides undertaking its regular activities on fronts like marketing, statistical analysis, suggestions on policies and procedures etc., the Council has forayed into new areas like infrastructure development, human resources development and environment protection as well. The current infrastructure projects handled by the Council include creation of additional facilities at the Ambur Trade Centre, establishment of a testing laboratory in Ranipet, upgradation of Design Studio in Kolkata and establishment of multi-skill development centre & training centre in Kanpur. The objective of the Council is to play an increasing role in creating the necessary infrastructure framework for the industry and the ambitious projects proposed in future include creation of Common Facility Centres (CFCs), Design Studios, Testing Centres and Raw Material Banks across the major leather production centres in the country. One of the main problems faced by the industry now is the scarcity of the workforce for undertaking shop floor level operations, which constitute 80% of the current workforce. In order to solve this problem, the Council will shortly be submitting a detailed proposal to the National Skill Development Corporation (NSDC) for setting-up of a Sector Skill Council for the Leather Sector. On the environment protection front, the objective of the industry is to ensure Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) from the tanneries by implementing the ZLD system. CLE will pursue with the Government for announcement of a suitable package for implementing the ZLD systems in the CETPs . On the whole, CLE will continue to play a vital role in achieving the envisaged export target of USD 8500 million by 201617 and also in reaching more milestones in the core areas of production & infrastructure growth, training and environment management.
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International Trade in Leather Sector The Indian Leather Sector – Initiatives of the Government and the industry Keeping “Innovation” as the key for development, the Indian Leather Sector too has undergone rapid changes and development in the last two decades, with both the Government and the industry playing a pro-active role. “Leather Sector” was recognized as a “Focus Sector” in the Foreign Trade Policy (FTP) 2004 – 09 and also in FTP 2009-14 and several special focus initiatives are being implemented for the sector. We have also seen the implementation of Indian Leather Development Programme (ILDP) in the X and XI plan periods. On the industry’s side, we have seen several initiatives which have transformed into large scale projects with the support of the Government. For the tanning sector, we have seen creation of exclusive tanning complexes including the Leather Complex in Kolkata and the Jalandhar Leather Complex. Besides, the tanning industry in the country is implementing several measures like upgradation of CETPs, implementing “Secure Landfill Systems” etc., so as to adhere to environmental norms and the objective of the sector is to go in for “Zero Liquid Discharge” wherein not even a drop of tannery waste water will be discharged into environment. For the Leather Goods Sector, we have seen creation of a “Leather Goods Park” in Kolkata while for the Footwear & Components segments, the projects implemented include creation of a Footwear Components Park and a Footwear SEZ at Irungattukottai near Chennai. Besides, we have seen Design Studios being established in Kolkata and Chennai under the ILDP. The Council for Leather Exports (CLE) has played an active role in providing the necessary inputs and suggestions to the Government of India in implementing the various policy measures and also projects. The CLE will continue to play an active role in various developmental projects related to leather industry on various fronts like
marketing, infrastructure, environment protection and training. Indian Leather Sector – Growth Story Though the exports from Indian Leather Sector are projected to reach a value of USD 3840 million in 2010-11, India is currently in 10th position in the global leather trade occupying a share close to 3%, whereas China & Hong Kong taken together have a massive share of more than 35% in global imports. The Indian Leather Industry definitely has the potential to be in 3rd or 4th place due to decreasing production base in Europe and increasing cost of production in China. The Global imports in leather sector have decreased to USD 115 Billion in 2009 from USD 137 Billion in 2008 due to global crisis. But the imports are expected to reach USD 245 billion by 2020, growing @ 6% per annum. Here lies our opportunity to capture the expected increase in market value. Though European Union and USA together account for 75% of exports from Indian Leather Sector, India’s share in the import markets of EU and USA is only about 4.43% and 1.34% respectively. Further, the Indian Leather Sector’s share in other potential markets like Japan, Russia, Canada, Australia and UAE are also quite low and hence there is tremendous potential to atleast double this share in the next 4-5 years. Need for innovations – Product and Market Diversification Since footwear is a major item of export from India having a share of about 42%, the major scope for product diversification is provided by this segment. The general
perception is that India is strong in Gent’s Footwear while the Ladies and Children footwear segment do not have a major presence. However, the statistics show that the Ladies and Children footwear have witnessed significant growth in the recent years. With the ladies footwear segment having a major share of 70% in the global market and, there are tremendous prospects for further enhancing our share in this segment. Conclusion The Council will have a major role to play in the implementation of the upcoming Mega Leather Clusters project which will be coming-up in seven states. Besides, we are looking forward to announcement of major measures for the leather industry in the XII Five Year Plan. We are also looking to explore the benefits of various schemes implemented by the MSME Ministry. There is a saying To open a shop is easy, to keep it open is an art. In line with this saying, the industry stalwarts, members of the Council and the Government have together helped the Council to carry on its multifarious activities in these 25 years with flying colours. The multifarious role of the Council for the overall development of the Indian Leather Industry will continue with more intensity in the coming years.
By Mr Ali Ahmed Khan, Executive Director, CLE
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“We want Expo Riva Schuh India to become a reference point for the whole of Asia...” An interview with Mr. Roney Simon, Managing Director, Expo Riva Schuh India, Italian Expositions Pvt Ltd - by Annou Iyer Tell us about the ethos behind the conceptualisation of Expo Riva Schuh India We need to put on record that there is no international fair of this standing as Expo Riva Schuh which has been able to take courage to come to India. There is a deep need to put things into perspective. In the geo-political test of economies, new areas are going to be on trade. After a long journey of three years of studying the market, and talking to the market leaders, the governments, associations and Council of Leather Exports our landing has really been possible because of the great collaborations between all including CLE and ITPO. What drove you to convince Expo Riva Schuh to come to India? In my 25 years of experience as advisor to government bodies and design institutes, I have learned that India can be a world class producer especially in the area of leather products. Expo Riva Schuh India gives an opportunity of transformation to bring a sense of quality which is has been associated with the Italians. And bringing an Italian touch is what will help transform and also set a benchmark for India. How challenging was it for Expo Riva Schuh? First and foremost, convincing the Indian leaders both governments and private industry to look at this opportunity was the most important and most difficult aspect Expo Riva Schuh, Italy has had a long standing traditional relationship with CLE. And their decision to invest in India is very strong and I truly appreciate this effort. How do you see Indian footwear retail industry growing? I truly believe that Expo Riva Schuh’s first edition in India is a water shed moment, as a major turning point in the Indian footwear and leather industry both
Extreme left: Mr. Roney Simon
in terms of shoes, bags, accessories and garments, particularly because the Indian retail market is beginning to come alive and come of age. Your views on current market dynamics with regards to government support. I would like to specially mention our Minister of Commerce, industry and textiles, Mr. Anand Sharma who is one of the main initiators, supporters and a visionary who had envisaged such an important fair coming to India which creates an opportunity for Indian companies to get new design, new manufacturing technologies and techniques, open the Indian market and allow the Indian consumer get better products available within. Do you plan to expand your presence in other South East Asian countries? We want to concentrate of Expo Riva Schuh India make it one of the largest fairs in the Asian market. We can convert this into an Indian edition that can become a destination for all the neighbouring countries. We also would like to see the Indian industry emerge and grow in terms of raw materials as well as finished goods.
Your future expectations on collaborations with CLE and ITPO We strongly believe in our collaborations with CLE and our partnership with ITPO will only grow further and both organizations seriously into creating a very strong association and we are moving into a very positive direction with our associations. What is your marketing strategy for India? Expo Riva Schuh India delivers good value for those who participate. It has been a serious answer to buyers and manufacturers for over 66 editions and this tradition automatically gets transcended to the Indian edition. Your future plans for Italian Expositions Pvt Ltd In our definite step towards partnership with the Indian leather industry, we want Expo Riva Schuh India to become a reference point and so we are organizing many meeting points, seminars and conferences for transfer of technology, joint venture opportunities and everything necessary that would take Indian leather market to a great new height.
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Vision for the Footwear Sector India’s footwear sector the engine of growth for the entire Indian leather industry. As the second largest global producer of footwear after China, India accounts for 13% of global footwear production of 16 billion pairs. India produces 2065 million pairs of different categories of footwear (leather footwear - 909 million pairs, leather shoe uppers - 100 million pairs and non-leather footwear - 1056 million pairs). India exports about 115 million pairs. Thus, nearly 95% of its production goes to meet its own domestic demand. The major production centers of footwear in India are Chennai, Ranipet, Ambur in Tamil Nadu, Mumbai in Maharashtra, Kanpur and Agra in U.P., Jalandhar in Punjab and Delhi. Production units of footwear are also located at Karnal, Ludhiana, Sonepat, Faridabad, Pune, Kolkata, Calicut and Ernakulam. About 1.10 million workforce are engaged in the footwear manufacturing industry. Export Performance The footwear sector has performed really well in the last 5 years, with the exports of footwear (leather & nonleather) and footwear components increasing from USD 1045.24 million in 2005-06 to USD 1507.51 million in 200910. The footwear sector exports has grown by more than 44% in the last five year period which is a good sign. The reduction in exports during 2009-10 is due to the adverse impact of the global financial crisis. Product Diversification India is strong in production of men’s footwear. Nevertheless, statistics show that the Ladies and Children footwear have witnessed significant growth in the recent years. Need to enhance share in global market European Union (EU27) is the largest importer of footwear in the world, with imports worth US$ 24.5 billion in 2008, constituting around 48% of the world imports. US is the second largest market with imports worth US$ 11.9 billion (2008),
accounting for 24% of the world imports. Other major import markets include Russian Federation, Japan and Canada. We need to look at enhancing our market share in our traditional markets, EU and US and also look towards penetrating new markets like Russia, Japan, Canada, Australia, New Zealand etc. The implementation of the Comprehensive Economic Progressive Agreement (CEPA) with Japan will help in enhancing our footwear exports to Japan, as this agreement will facilitate removal of the quota system in Japan and reduction of import duties for footwear. Marketing Initiatives The Council for Leather Exports has been playing a vital role in promoting the interests of the Indian footwear sector. The Council has been organizing several marketing initiatives for the footwear sector which include organizing large scale India Pavilions in major footwear fairs including the Expo Riva Schuh Fair in Garda, Italy. Brand Promotion Though Indian exporters have been supplying to major brands overseas, there are very few Indian brands in the market. With increasing attention on India in the
global market, we see lot of potential for developing and promoting the Indian Brands. Of course, this involves lot of investment and the Government has to support us in this effort. The request of the industry is that the Government may consider formulating a specific package for providing assistance in the form of grant for brand promotion in leather sector for an initial period till the brand is established. I am sure that implementation of this specific package will be extremely beneficial to the leather industry. Steps towards Growth a) enhancing productivity b) product diversification c) market diversification d) retaining the current workforce by enhancing their skills and also provide training to potential workforce e) creating and promoting “Indian Brands” so as to get higher returns.
By P.R. Aqeel Ahmed Regional Chairman (SR), CLE
Men’s Bags F/W 2011-12|Accessori|RTW 17
RTW S/S 2012
men’s Accessories Prada S/S 2012
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Bottega Veneta
Burberry Prorsum
Burberry Prorsum
Burberry Prorsum
Canali
Shoes Shoes for S/S 2012 carry a balance between luxury and comfort for men. Flamboyant designs make their way into the mix, however with an emphasis on vintage and retro pop-cultural tropes. There is a casual comfort with eye catching touches inspired by the world of a wanderer. Very much in vogue is the Exotic leather using sophisticated processing and tanning techniques. Embossed leather panels are incorporated in footwear that has a natural pattern of python or crocodile.
Boss Green
Dior
Jean Paul Gaultier
Dior
Dior
Jean Paul Gaultier
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Costume National
Dsquared2
Dsquared2
Dolce & Gabbana
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RTW|Men’s Shoes S/S 2012
Salvatore Ferragamo
Etro
Vivienne Westwood
Zzegna
Jil Sander
Shoes For S/S 2012, Men’s shoes are seen in classic solid colours such as apricot, turquoise, fuchsia, aubergine, ivory and beige. Soft and delicate colours but with such personality are realized in the matt version to enhance the velvety effect of leather. Designers work with reflective, washed out, faded, tie & dye effect. There is also the glossy, wet, lacquered finishes and camouflage decoration with traces, imprints, markings and engravings inspired by nature.
Kris Van Assche
Kenzo
Kris Van Assche
Kenzo
Kris Van Assche
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Salvatore Ferragamo
Vivienne Westwood
Kenzo
Kenzo
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RTW|Men’s Bags S/S 2012
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta
Burberry Prorsum
Burberry Prorsum
Dirk Bikkembergs
Bags Bags for S/S 2012 are highly oversized with a variety of weekend bags and masculine appearing leather trunks. The collections explore creativity with modern and futuristic blends. From charming prints to contemporary vision, the bags have a forward thinker’s positive effect with influences taken from simple motifs, minimal, sporty and architectural shapes.
Dior
Kenzo
Dior
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Ermenegildo Zegna
Etro
Gucci
Jil Sander
Dolce & Gabbana
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RTW|Men’s Bags S/S 2012
Bottega Veneta
Louis Vuitton
Prada
Trussardi
Zzegna
Bags The Men’s purses now popularly known as Murses or men’s clutches demonstrate the designer’s approach to a progressive vision. The sharp and modern shapes with a strong base in design still stick to its traditional application for men’s luxury market. Grommeted clutches to safari clutches, the brands twist the rules and make it sophisticated for men to carry these leather exclusives.
Dior Kenzo
Dior
Kenzo
Men’s Bags F/W 2011-12|Accessori|RTW 25
RTW F/W 2011-12
women’s Accessories Salvatore Ferragamo F/W 2011-12
26
RTW|Women’s Shoes F/W 2011-12
Alexander McQueen
Dolce & Gabbana
Alberta Ferrati
Antinio Berardi
Blumarine
Shoes The shoes for F/W 2011-12 come in materials such as leather, patent, reptile skins, suede and sating with a lot of lace and occasional fur. There is a great usage of buckles and metal fasteners. Amongst shapes, we see round toes and pike toes getting popular. Platforms and wedges come in classic and elegant designs. While chunky heals and clogs offer a perfect example for an edgie style.
Dior
Dior Dior Dior
Dior
Dior
Dior
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Etro
Blumarine
Guess
Hermes
Blumarine
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RTW|Women’s Shoes F/W 2011-12
Roberto Cavalli
Bottega Veneta
Hermes
Manish Arora
Dior
Shoes The shapes are largely lady-like with heels decorated with thin ankle straps and lacing. There are also fur embellished classic pointy toe pumps. Shoes in nude tones are played with nude tone crystals while metallic touches add an extra shine. Suede under-soles on heels are indulgent. Other colours such as browns, blacks, greys, reds, purples and greens are aesthetically evocative and come in both western and eastern influences.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Prada
Jil Sander
Kenzo
Jean Paul Gaultier
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Prada
Prada
Dior
Oscar de la Renta
Prada
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RTW|Women’s Bags F/W 2011-12
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta
Aigner
Burberry
Brioni
Bags For F/W 2011-12, we see bags being carried in an aesthetic perfection with the couture clothes. The dimensions vary from micro clutches to foldable variants. With interesting blend of opulence blended with functionality, the designers keep the bags boxy and structured. Materials such as printed fabrics, glossy coloured patent leather and fur insertions keep the winter spirit alive.
Jil Sander
Dior
Dior
Jil Sander
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Chloe
Costume National
David Tomaszewksi
Dsquared2
D&G
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RTW|Women’s Bags F/W 2011-12
Louis Vuitton
Jil Sander
Mulberry
Paul Smith
Sass & Bide
Bags Envelope bags offer a modern urban touch and combine a variety of textures as well as fabrics. The cuts are defined while the metal buckles keep the fashion quotient alive. The minimalistic designs attract attention without being overpowering. The oversized versions are in simpler formats. With a great palette of choices, the bags for F/W 2011-12 make a fantastic fashion statement.
Prada
Prada
Kenzo
Kenzo
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Dsquared2
Emporio Armani
Fendi
Kenzo
Gucci
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RTW|Women’s Shoes F/W 2011-12
Versace
Louis Vuitton
Paul Smith
Mulberry
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Bags Prada
Dior
Prada
Jil Sander
Kenzo
Autumn/Winter 2012-13
leather Forecasts Celia Czerlinski
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RTW|Leather Fashion A/W 2012-13
a fashion outlook of contrasts Autumn/Winter 2012-13
The fashion focus for Autumn/Winter 2012-13 is on clear-cut contrasts and greater extremes. And it is the sheer depth of contrasts – warm or cold, light or dark, black or white, romantic or grunge – that has provided the impetus and inspiration behind the new colour and trend forecast for the footwear and leather sectors. Compromise is no longer chic whereas the sensitivity for the timeless and sustainable has increased.Supporting its customers in generating their own collections, Clariant launches its new Global Color Card – developed in close cooperation with ModEurop, the Fashion Pool at DSI (Das Schuhinstitut GmbH) – as well as its leather trend booklet ‘Fashion Up!’, in preparation for Autumn/Winter 2012-13.
THE FOUR TREND THEMES IN LEATHER Grunge, Romantic, Classic and Galaxy are the new mix of the season. Ranging from aggressive high-heels and pure classic lines to opulent antiqued leather articles all the way up to galactic styles with reflective and futuristic metallics. No compromises – clear fashion statements bringing this powerful season to new heights. Decorative finishes include vintage styles or the high gloss of soft patents.
LEATHER COLOURS After the severe turbulence of recent times we are now looking for new orientation. We are seeing things from a new angle and are no longer willing to compromise. This attitude is reflected in the new Autumn/Winter 2012-13 leather colours, which were selected by ModEurop at its recent Colour Event, hosted by Clariant in Leinfelden/Germany; they range from an optimistic and timeless palette of warm reds over neutral winter shades to cool and icy polar tones.
NEO GRUNGE Grunge is back. Fashion is once more playing to the beat of the nineties alternative rock scene. Attitude is required to wear lumberjack shirts, parkas, floral slip dresses and torn jeans layered up with beanie hats, arm warmers and laddered hosiery. Tough buckled strap boots and aggressive high heels are the footnotes. Battered and distressed finishes and new high gloss leathers such as corrected grains or soft patent interpret this mood. This rebellious youth-led look spans all levels of the market from inexpensive thrift shop finds to luxury designer grunge.
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STORYBOOK The romantic fiction of Victorian novelists is the starting point for this mood. Passionate heroes and captivating heroines come to life and inspire apparel touched with gothic nostalgia. Soft flowing lines and fullskirted silhouettes come in the new belowthe-knee lengths. Elegant heels and granny boots are embellished with lace, gemstones and pearls. This opulent story with antiqued leathers and decorative textures offers a total contrast to the minimalist trend, and marks the return of trims and detail following a period of low key fashion.
BASE A colour collection of the essentials – neutral shades that form the focus for autumn-winter collections. Back to our foundations with timeless and everlasting values reflected in grey-tinted naturals and browns as well as winter whites, camel and natural blacks.
EBONY
TOBACCO
CIGAR
CINNAMON
MELANGE
LAUREL
SAGE
IvORY
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RTW|Leather Fashion A/W 2012-13
ULTRA CLASSIC Classics get a new minimalist twist with pure lines and pared away details that stand the test of time. It is back-to-basics dressing, but with a luxurious makeover. Colour-blocks and panelling slice up garments into bold Mondrian-inspired shapes. Proportions are altered: hemlines hover around the knee and footwear favours the new mid-height heel. Care must be taken to ensure that these simple shapes are never too plain and therefore boring, which is where texture comes in. Quality grains, traditional embosses and classic reptile elevates the simple into something special.
WARMTH Reflected by the power of the sun and the flickering of flames with nearly every nuance of yellow, orange and red. Feelings of human warmth, home and love of tradition – a theme full of emotion and passion.
GOLD
FOx
SADDLE
AMBER
BLOOD
HEATHER
WINE
FIR TREE
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GALACTIC There is no need to wait for Richard Branson’s first commercial spacecraft to be launched – galactic styles have lift off already. Technical innovation and clean lines are harnessed together in this space-aged look. Body-aware contours and padded shapes with volume create impact. Accessories including padded moon boots, high-heeled platforms and fantasy clutch bags are no less dramatic.
COLDNESS As the antithesis of “Warmth”, this group is inspired by distance, future and technology. A sophisticated mix of high-tech and the inexhaustible strength of nature translated into futuristic and mysterious colors like cool blues, greys, greens and darks.
stone
TITAN
COSMOS
DEEp SEA
INK
CASSIS
BLACK FOREST
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RTW|Leather Fashion A/W 2012-13
footloosE anD fancY frEE WINTER 2012-2013 Rely on instinct rather than analysis and reasoning. Accept strong emotions and go weak in the knees. Play on overexcitement and hyper concentration. Do everything at top speed or very slowly. Eat everything raw or slow-roast your joint of meat for five hours. Cultivate the neighbour’s cabbage and drink Peruvian herbal tea. Go to church every day and make love day and night. Play at being a girl play at being a boy. Mix up and mix together the being and the material. Become mineral or animal, artist, artisan, poet or plumber. Create subtle aromas with the fragrance of raw materials. Make jeans and accessories with breathtaking embroidery. And evening dresses from scraps of parka. Follow the theme to the letter: sketch comic book engraving. Still life augmented reality fractal light 3d.
GET CARRIED AWAY SHOW OFF Tarts, Courtesans, Duchesses and Princesses, Incroyables et Merveilleuses, haunt the arcades of the Palais Royal and stroll in the gardens of the ChampsElysées. The desire to please, to seduce and to provoke becomes a game of fashion, a theatrical role play where burlesque fun and ambiguous femininity invoke a procession of fictional heroines. Contemporary clones of Thaïs, Aspasie, Liane de Pougy, Madame de Pompadour and Kiki de Montparnasse adopt an eroticprovocative style. Heady elixirs, voluptuous caresses, innocent perversion, subtle deliquescence evoke a somewhat faded flashiness: shabby pastels, shimmering iridescents, pale golds, delicate champagne, luscious and regressive pinks, sombre, luxurious and opulent reds, tragic black, fatal black.
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BEWITCHING MUTATE
Humans, flora and fauna inhabit a strange nature. Ugly and gentle monsters people an enchanted world. Nick Cave is dressed as a bundle of wood, or a bird of paradise, Charlie Le Mindu transforms the heads of pretty girls into the heads of wolves, or into unlikely Horse Guards. Lanky boy models with their narrow hips and long ebony hair reveal a budding chest. Man-woman, catfish, treehedgehog, duck-dog, stone-tree, activate the mechanics of wonder. Colours make the most of it to giggle and oppose an array of joyful primaries against bloody reds, prickly nearly-blacks and wild and dangerous browns – Fare away from fashion, season and context.
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RTW|Leather Fashion A/W 2012-13
BEDAZZLEMENT BLINDED BY THE LIGHT
“Il y a des moments où la lumière pense” “There are moments where light thinks” Gilles Deleuze A pop apocalypse of lights and images guides us towards a world in perpetual motion. The desire for possession is cancelled out by the need to exceed one’s limits and by technological prowess. High-Tech becomes sensitive and fun. Images emit continuous and discontinuous vibrations. Digital wizardry strengthens the concept of immateriality and augmented reality. Changing lustres - Dazzling colours seem impossible to capture. Ultraviolet, scarab shell, filtered fractal blue, metals in fusion, fire red, black light.
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REvERSAL HEAD OVER HEELS
Let off steam, invert the codes, refuse consumption to encourage invention, contestation. Mutual support and resourcefulness change the stakes. Do everything with nothing, a motto that would have pleased Tintin. Instead of standardised marketing, we invent local marketing. We eat cows raised by our neighbours, and we don’t even need to cook them... “Do-it-Yourself”: we grow lettuce on our balcony, knit an over-size sweater, in a very wild hunting and gathering spirit. Daily life is unusual and the unusual is part of daily life. Unplugged, neo-folk colours concoct a reassuring soup with the help of forgotten varieties of vegetable: earthy potato, swede, mustard seeds, kohlrabi, artichoke flowers.
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RTW|Fashion Calendar
FOOTWEAR TRADE SHOW CALENDAR 2011-2012 Trade Shows
Dates 2011-2012
Web URL
Ffany Collections
Aug 02-03, 2011
www.ffany.org
Pure London
Aug 07-09, 2011
www.purelondon.com
Nordic Shoe & Bag Fair
Aug 11013, 2011
www.nordensskoochvaskmassa.se
Moda Footwear
Aug 14-16, 2011
www.moda-uk.co.uk
China Leather Shoe Material
Aug 26-28, 2011
www.donnor.com/shoetech/
Australian Shoe Fair
Aug 28-30, 2011
www.australianshoefair.com
SAPICA
Aug 31-3 Sept, 2011
www.sapica.com
Pret A Porter
Sept 03-06, 2011
www.pretparis.com
China Int. Footwear Fair
Sept 06-08, 2011
www.ciffchina.com
GDS Shoe Fair
Sept 07-09, 2011
www.gds-online.com
Modacalzado
Sept 11-13, 2011
www.ifema.es
& Shoe Machinery Fair
Photo: Jil Sander S/S 2012
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FOOTWEAR TRADE SHOW CALENDAR 2011-2012 Trade Shows
Dates 2011-2012
Web URL
Anteprima Colours & Trends
Sept 13-14, 2011
www.anteprima.com
Mipel
Sept 18-21, 2011
www.mipel.it
Micam
Sept 18-21,2011
www.micamonline.com
Le Cuir A Paris
Sept 20-22, 2011
www.lecuiraparis.com
Lineapelle
Oct 18-20, 2011
www.lineapelle-fair.it
Southwest Shoe Expo
Oct 27-30, 2011
www.dallasmarketcenter.com
Dongguan China Shoetec
Oct 31-02 Nov, 2011
www.chinashoesexpo.com
World Footwear Congress
Nov 07-08, 2011
www.worldfootwearcongress.com
Couromoda
Jan 16-19, 2012
www.couromoda.com
Magic
Feb 13-16, 2012
www.magiconline.com
APLF
March 28-30, 2012
www.aplf.com
Photo: C’N’C Costume National F/W 2011-12
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Design: PealiDezine, pealiduttagupta@pealidezine.com
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