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02.04

CoNteNtS

Emilio Pucci, Milan Fashion Week A/W 14-15

MASt heAD

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BrAND NeWS

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BUSSINeSS oF FAShIoN

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FAShIoN ShoWS & trADe FAIrS Ambiente Maison&Objet Milano Unica Salone del Mobile Milano Pitti Immagine-Uomo

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FAShIoN WeeKS A/W 2014-15 WIFW New Delhi LFW Mumbai New York London Milan Paris

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Cover Photo: Roberto Cavalli, Milan Fashion Week A/W 14-15

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Luxury Footwear Brand English luxury footwear brand, John Lobb to enter Indian market John Lobb, a premier English handmade-tomeasure shoe-maker since 1866, has recently tied up with Mumbai-based Regalia Luxury for distribution and retail of its men shoes in India.

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he brand’s commercial director for Europe, Middle East and India, Thomas Collette, stated that India is still to be considered as a relatively young market but definitely not as an emerging market like the others. This is why the brand aims to target the Indian clients with a dedicated strategy through the brand’s ‘by request’ offer.

The company feels that there is a visible gap for a specialised provider of hand crafted fine leather shoes and accessories. Owned by French luxury house, Hermes, the company feels it is the right time to expand. Regalia Luxury eventually plans to open exclusive stores to sell the brand’s handmade-to-measure shoes. Priced between Rs 45,000 and Rs. 6 lakh a pair, John Lobb has a common history with India, dating back to the early 1900s when members of Indian royal families were its clients.

It’s ‘by request’ service allows customers to place a special order on shoes that reflect their style and precisely match their personal expectations after choosing from over 150 available models from the past and current John Lobb collections.

Regalia Luxury will be the exclusive partner for the distribution in the Indian market and will work together to constantly build and promote the brand in the territory.

Headed by Pratik Dalmia, Regalia Luxury also sells the high-end Italian menswear brand, Kiton in India.

Last year, John Lobb had partnered with the Taj Group to launch its shoe-care service in Mumbai. The same service is being launched in Delhi in June 2014.

Mast Head RTW Volume Two, Number four, 02.04 ISSN Number 2229-6530

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RTW|Brand News Arrow New York Arrow New York, the formal wear line from Arrow New York has launched its S/S 14 collection with Prints. This exclusive fashionable work wear features print patterns such as the birdie print, the bubble wrap, leaf print, quote marks, byte patterns amongst others. From classy grey to sunny yellow, this print collection allows breaking out of the wardrobe rut with pretty print patterns. The urban cityscape and NY Graphic Tees are perfect for a hip youthful look while the Bubble Wrap Print comes in a sophisticated blue and can be paired with a trouser in a darker shade. There’s also blue featured in a twist with a subtle Printed Slim Fit Shirt. The shades of berry dominate neat Geometric Print Tees and crested Shirts, that are teamed with a printed Tie. Born in 1851, Arrow is a blue blooded American brand and has been known for its expertise in dressing gentlemen. The brand has innovated every important style: introduced the detachable collar, launched the adjustable waist bands in trousers and has brought the wrinkle-free, stain-free concepts to clothing. Today, this exceptional brand has a range that suits the corporate corner office decisionmaker as well as it does the young professional who, someday, seeks to get there.

Arrow is available in all the major cities and towns across India and is managed by Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd.

Brand News|RTW BAtA INDIA Bata, India’s leading footwear retailer and manufacturer opened its First Global Concept Store in India at the DLF Place, Saket. As part of its new campaign the brand is offering an amalgamation of different colours, materials and styles in its Spring 2014 catalogue. The store has been completely revamped and re-done to suit the needs of its customers.

The new Bata store is made as per the brands global store format, designed by experienced designers and architects, using the latest retail techniques and the best quality of furniture to enhance the store’s layout and provide an attractive product display. The store creates an aesthetically designed ambience with an attention to detail on the ceiling, façade, flooring and multimedia features. The new format also makes the store more inviting and inspiring with the exciting new fashion displays.

Continuing its tradition of innovation, the brand continues to offer new shoe materials, new technologies and a collection that matches comfort with style. The key areas of change within the store are its unique branding, inordinate visual

merchandising and interesting back-drops.

The S/S 2014 collection highlights the trends like cut-work detailing, bling, bolder prints and textures, innovative designs, metallic trims and special collections like Driver’s and Semi Ankle shoe styles with colourful lining. An inspirational collection was also launched at the event called the Bata walks Green. It is a label given to the products dedicated to dear Mother Nature. This project also highlights the common strength which is social and environmental conservation. Hence the collection empowers the impact of green initiative in the most subtle & elegant way. The shoes & accessories design are very innovative & original. The materials used are all recyclable and natural.

Bata has been holding a unique place in the hearts of Indians for more than 80 years. As India’s largest footwear retailer, Bata enjoys a large market share in the organized sector. It retails through over 1,500 Bata Shoe Stores located in over 500 cities across India.

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RTW|Brand News

BeING HumAN CLotHING Being Human Clothing has strengthened its foothold in Gujarat, opening its 3rd store in the state in Vadodara. The fast fashion brand’s fast expansion plans are moving well in form. The new outlet at Inorbit Mall propagates the brand philosophy with an entire range of fashion wear for men and women on display, in sync with international trends. A percentage of the profit goes to the Being Human Foundation.

Talking about the launch Mr. Manish Mandhana, Managing Director, Mandhana Industries said, “Vadodara has great potential and is picking up as a retail destination of most domestic and international brands. We hope Being Human Clothing can help make some difference towards the underprivileged in Vadodara.”

In a unique licensing arrangement with Being Human - The Salman Khan Foundation, Mandhana Industries has brought out a clothing line with a heart where royalties from the clothing line support education and healthcare initiatives of the Foundation.

With an exclusive global license to design, manufacture, retail and distribute Being Human Clothing, Mandhana Industries Ltd launched the brand in 2012 in Europe, followed by Middle East and India. As of 2014, Being Human Clothing is available in more than 14 countries worldwide: Bahrain, Belgium, Dammam, Doha, France, India, Jeddah, Jordan, Kuwait, Oman, Pakistan, Riyadh, Spain and UAE. The brand has over 300 retail and 7 online selling points worldwide including 120 retail and 4 online selling points in India.

Brand News|RTW BurBerrY ProrSum For Burberry Prorsum menswear A/W 2014, Christopher Bailey juxtaposes the brand’s British tailoring heritage with bold geometric prints and modern exploded plaids. Using timehonoured construction like U.K. tie looms and jacquard patterns woven in Scotland, silk scarves and mesh shirts gives the otherwise outerwear-heavy collection a decidedly airy feel.

The brand’s masculine mainstays (militaristic outerwear and the signature trench coat) get a feminine touch with artfully draped hand-painted silk scarves and blousy floral button-downs in a nod to the artists that inspired this “Painterly Journey” collection.

Finding new ways to indulge the Britishness, Christopher uses the map print scarves in a google map world, city landmarks on knits and bags that are inspired by tourist shops following the sophisticated Burberry style. For accessories, the brand introducing the St Ives bag in hand-painted leather, suede and British-woven blankets, authentic rugs, hand-painted printed silk squares, equestrian blanket scarves, rubber-soled burnished leather brogues and Welsh-knitted Fair Isle socks.

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RTW|Brand News

CANALI A/w 2014 Canali, specialist in tailor-made luxury, has been a paradigm of Italian masculine elegance for 80 years. Since 1934, it has been promoting the value of artisan know-how, as embodied by the “Made in Italy � approach in its true sense. Mingling culture and history with style and taste Canali creates every time a masterpiece, a harmony of details in perfect balance, expertly hand-crafted, manifested in perfect wearability, extraordinary comfort combined with sophisticated elements.

The A/W 2014 collection of the brand reflects these modern aesthetics, with attention to details, bright colours, slim silhouettes, masterful tailoring and top notch fabrics. Dressed with soft sentiments, the men of Canali walk in brushed wool, velvet and fur. Cut loose and casual like a house coat, oversize coats are worn over luxe knitwear, sharp shirting and smart scarves. Adorning suits and outerwear, ornate prints create a soft stir in subdued hues. Complete with fine quilted coats and refined velvet separates, the collection easily makes an elegant impact. Precise but evanescent nuances draw on an exceptionally rich Italian tradition and mingle with the fabulous oriental echoes.

In its third generation, Canali today constitutes a design and manufacturing group, with its own production centres located in Italy, 1600 employees, 236 boutiques in the world, 1000 retail store in more than 100 countries.

Brand News|RTW CArAtLANe.Com Caratlane.com is India’s one of the largest online diamond and diamond jewellery portal and offers a wide range of solitaire diamonds, solitaire based jewellery, readymade diamond jewellery, gold and engraved jewellery. The website has tied-up with more than 4000 vendors worldwide to offer a wide choice of solitaire diamonds. The site carries solitaire diamonds of all shapes, colour, cut and clarity grades which start from 30 cents going all the way up to 10+ carats.

Its latest Drops collection is delicately crafted and stylized with slim and fat drop colour stones like amethyst, citrine, blue topaz, green amethyst, smoky quartz and lemon quartz. Green amethyst, citrine and blue topaz are available in checker facets whereas amethyst, lemon quartz and smoky quartz are available in transparent tones. The drop stone being the main focus, the collection is made in 18kt yellow and white gold and starts from Rs. 19,500 up to Rs. 90,251.

GroHe The Good Design Award is bestowed to excellent products whose synergy of form and function is considered exemplary for the design industry. 2013 once again saw GROHE among the winners. Five of the company’s products have each garnered one of the coveted awards given out by the Chicago Athenaeum: Museum of Architecture and Design in cooperation with the European Centre for Architecture Art Design and Urban Studies.

The award-winning line-up includes the Grohe Spa F-digital Deluxe shower experience modules, which features minimalist design, flexible installation options and good functionality. High-end modules are available to fill the shower cabin with pleasantly coloured light, cleansing steam and music. It’s collection of bathroom faucets and fittings combines flowing feminine forms with clearly defined masculine edges. The entire line shares a unique geometric feature in the “Squircle”, a fusion of the square and the circle. Grohe also has two winner products in the kitchen that include a professional spray on a spring spout, a single-lever mixer with hand spray or separate side spray as well as two-hole designs where the spout is detached from the lever. The second winner is a hybrid faucet which gives users a choice between manual and sensor operation.

Winning a Good Design Award has been considered an important accolade by manufacturers ever since the inception of this award programme back in 1950. Today it is ranked as one of the world’s most prestigious and oldest design competitions. Recent years have seen GROHE win a total of 15 of these world-renowned awards.

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RTW|Brand News CeLIo Celio, the premium French menswear fashion brand, designed in Paris, launched its first ever concept store in Promenade Mall, New Delhi. Following the success of both - the stand alone stores and shop in shops stationed at multibrand retail chains, the new store is intended to replicate the contemporary design known as the “Rome Champs-Elysees concept”. The refurbishing is to provide one experience for all the Celio stores across the globe. The brand present across 1000 stores in 70 countries carries international range of smart casual wear, formalwear and accessories. Spread over 1000 sq. ft, the new Celio store is more spacious and offers some of the most fashionable merchandise for men. The concept store integrates technology and contemporary chic fixtures. The open and flexible layout and subtle colour scheme exude a premium feel, truly living to its French lineage.

Celio’s S/S 2014 collection is marked by strong directions in terms of colour and product. An ode to travel, the collection showcases the brand’s colour expertise, prints and dip dye effects. The wardrobe takes a fresh approach, reinterpreting the essentials for men in lively colour tones. Blue is expressed in every hue, while indigo remains the shade of the season.

Deep, intense, washed or more classic, it is worn on its own or mixed with coloured stripes. For the Club section, the colour explosion highlights an urban wardrobe with a smart casual contemporary vibe. Giving its classics a twist, Celio’s coloured trousers come in myriad variations, and are worn with trainers or derbies without socks. Jackets and suits are available in different summer fabrics in which linen opts for a washed marl finish. A weekend bag and rucksacks complete the looks with an added dash of soul and style.

Brand News|RTW JACk & JoNeS The Jack & Jones S/S 2014 collection provides sophisticated fashion-forward looks with quality fabrics, unique detailing and signature design twists. The menswear collection has 4 diverse collections – Originals, Core, Premium and Vintage. The Core collection has a strong graphical concept, innovative details, contemporary fabrics and utility trim and focuses on denim and sports materials combined with lightweight cottons and polyesters. The originals showcases important trends of the season by mixing the surf/skater look with a mash-up of sports and 90s-inspired characteristics. While, the Vintage collection revives authentic vintage items and reproduce washes, trims and fabrics with reference to specific periods in time. The Premium collection provides a complementing combination of iconic and contemporary styles such as chambray shirts, chino shorts and tees and on the other hand trend blazers, sharp dress shirts and artistic graphic t-shirts. Characterized by comfortable, useable and practical styles, the Summer Collection of 2014 is a fusion of streetwear and sportswear. Marketed by Bestseller India, Jack & Jones currently has 45 stores and 66 shopin-shops spread across the country. Bestseller India currently has 56 stores and is present in over 115 shop-in-shops in external multi-brand stores throughout India.

kAmA JeweLLerY The e-commerce arm of Kama Schachter, one of Asia’s leading manufacturers and exporters of diamond jewellery launches two new collections, that features fascinating range of pendants and earrings bejewelled with brilliant cut diamonds and a center diamond that is skilfully suspended from two ends. This unique setting allows the diamond to move it playfully without restraint to create captivating illusion of a “Dancing Diamond”. The center diamonds in each jewellery piece come to life on the slightest touch or movement.

Within a year of its presence, the brand has managed to offer a good diamond jewellery shopping experience on its e-commerce portal www.kamajewellry.com. The webstore offers more than 1000 designs of exquisite diamond jewellery in gold and platinum at the most competitive prices. Established in 1996, Kama Schachter headquartered in Mumbai is one of Asia’s leading manufacturers, exporters and retailers of diamond jewelry in Asia. With offices in India, USA, Germany, Japan, China and Hong Kong, Kama Schachter has a workforce of 1200 employees. The company has a wide global distribution network in India, USA, Europe, Russia, Japan, Middle East and Australia. The manufacturing infrastructure of the company includes 4 state-of-the-art factories in India and Hong Kong, equipped with the latest technology and a production capacity of 100,000 pieces of diamond jewellery per month. Kama’s model-making bases in Hong Kong and India have a capacity of creating 500 models per month.

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RTW|Brand News Lee PrINt JeANS Lee, one of the world’s most popular denim label, has introduced Print Jeans with D.F.X Special effects. From dark coloured printed skinnies to bright patterned floral bottoms, Lee rounds up a denim style for everyone. The collection assures of great quality, fabric and finish innovation comprising of jacquard, laser print and graphic prints. The Laser print features a pixilated floral design for a feminine yet contemporary edge; while the stretch ensures a great fit. The Graphic prints offer bold patterns and prints that range from pensive to ultra angular.

Lee, has pioneered more apparel innovations than any other brand, with the ubiquitous zip-fly being the most striking of them all; in addition to other legendary outfits such as Union-all, Pressed denim, Loco Jacket, 11.05 oz. Jelt denim etc. The brand has been fashioning bold couture statements for over a century, from jeans, shirts, jackets to t-shirts, polo’s, tunics and everything in between; in various fits, collars, necklines, designs, hues and sleeve types.

SCABAL Spring/Summer 2014 sees Scabal offering a huge selection of highquality cloths, many of them new qualities developed in its own mill in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England. Alongside its perennial and proven favourites, Scabal has updated and recoloured patterns to suit its contemporary customers across the world. As always, technical innovations are included in the latest bunches. Continuing the popular and successful trends of recent season, the emphasis for new suitings is on more discreet and elegant designs.

Self stripes, shadow stripes and semiplains remain very important. The Jackets come in 100% qualities or in clever and innovative blends, cool merino wool is combined with linen, silk and cotton to create fashionable casual cloths. The trousers offer a vast colour selection while for leather accessories there is an extensive range of luxurious collection that includes shoes, luggage, bags and belts.

Brand News|RTW

mANGo tree Thailand based Mango Tree group is a dynamic, innovative and fast-growing company that has a vision to bring authentic Thai cuisine with a creative twist to the world, and to plant a Mango Tree in every major world city. At the vanguard of the global Thai food explosion, the Mango Tree group comprises the Mango Tree, Mango Tree Bistro and Mango Tree Cafe brands, as well as Coca, the contemporary steamboat suki concept.

The latest, Mango Tree Bistrobar Bangalore is the company’s first foray into India and features an industrial chic interior design concept with exposed brick walls, graffiti and ceiling menus, contrasted with edgy and sophisticated furniture - plus a focus on alfresco dining, cocktails created by world class bartenders, DJs spinning chilled tunes, occasional live performances, and of course Mango Tree’s authentic yet innovative Thai food. Mango Tree has signed up further outlets in India in a rollout strategy that will see the flagship fine dining brand, Mango Tree Mumbai, open later in 2014. The development of the Bistrobar brand compliments the high-end Mango Tree restaurants located in many of the world’s major capital cities including London, Tokyo, Dubai and Hong Kong, as well as the smaller Mango Tree Café concept that is smaller and found in malls.

Last month Mango Tree Worldwide unveiled

an ambitious expansion programme that will increase its restaurants and cafes to 100 outlets by 2015, with plans to double its annual turnover to US$100 million within two years. A Mango Tree is slated to open in Washington this September, while the company is also eyeing locations in China.

Mango Tree managing director Trevor MacKenzie said the expansion would cement the company’s position as the world’s leading Thai restaurant operator. “We aim to plant a Mango Tree in every major international city in the world and thereby spread the magic that is Thai cuisine,” he said. The group’s heritage dates back to 1957, when Khun Srichai Phanphensophon

opened the first Coca restaurant in Surawong, launching the suki trend in Thailand. The pioneering spirit continued when the group’s CEO and celebrity chef Pitaya Phanphensophon, Srichai’s son, opened the first Mango Tree restaurant in the heart of Silom in 1994.

Today, the group operates more than 70 restaurants and cafes in 15 countries in Asia, the Middle East, and the USA. Part cultural ambassador and part culinary innovator, Mango Tree has charted a course to become the premier global Thai cuisine brand, delivering quality Thai cuisine, stylish design, and intuitive service that always exceeds diners’ expectations.

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RTW|Brand News mICHAeL korS American label Michael Kors is catering to affluent Indian consumers by opening its first store in the country that is fully equipped with the brand’s signature items. The store is located at New Delhi’s DLF Emporio Mall. The 1,500-square-foot store will carry Michael Kors Collection ready-to-wear and handbags, as well as accessories, footwear, watches, eyewear and ready-to-wear from the MICHAEL Michael Kors line. Featuring multiple price points will likely increase the buzz generated by the store’s opening. Leather furniture, metal fixtures and mirrored surfaces have been incorporated into the store to reflect the label’s aesthetics. The brand plans to expand its presence in India.

Brand News|RTW mICHAeL korS ACCeSSorIeS S/S 2014 Michael Kors’ Spring / Summer 2014 accessories collection mainly features accessories complimenting the brand’s ‘Blue Crush’ line.

The collection is heavily focused on golds and neutrals. From calfskin leather bags to tie & dye canvas bags, there is a huge variety to choose from. Besides Kors’ beautiful colour palette (ranging from shades of greens and blues to beige and tans) the collection also offers different textures.

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RTW|Brand News moNtBLANC Montblanc unveils the unique range of sophisticated and classic cufflinks for men this season. Created specifically with simple and meticulous craftsmanship, the Montblanc League Collection cufflinks are in stainless steel with red goldcoloured PVD finish, titanium and diamonds. This Montblanc Men’s Fine Jewellery Collection talks to the 21st century man who is indulging himself with a different style of jewellery.

It brings sleek contemporary shapes and colours to those who do not fear exploring a universe of surprising materials.

Dominated by a contemporary twist, this Collection is centered of the novel use of distinctly masculine materials which are often associated with advanced technology and high performance. Two pairs of cufflinks in an elongated bar shape alternate a red-gold coloured PVD finish, with either stainless steel or titanium for a more industrial appearance, both feature a brilliant diamond set within a Montblancemblem.

CANALI Canali has chosen Kolkata for its seventh boutique opening in India. Situated on the ground floor of the Quest Mall, one of India’s largest shopping centers, the new point of sale features the brand’s new architectural design concept inspired by the rationalist architecture of the 1930s and constructivist art. The space’s elegant, sophisticated style is expressed by precise linear shapes, warm materials and a fine eye for detail which further enhances the discreet luxury that permeates the setting. The new concept, launched this year, divides the boutique into themed spaces which are skillfully blended here with Indian culture to respect the traditions

of the host country. Just inside the boutique entrance is the gallery area, defined by impressive free-standing crystal glass showcases, fine marble cladding and dark-coloured ceilings imprinted with the Canali brand pattern. This is joined by a more intimate room with a wooden ceiling and big, librarystyle, fabric and backlit glass decorative units. The back of the shop contains the cash desk, hidden behind a smoked glass partition, and the fitting rooms, which have a big video screen behind them on which images of the latest collections are projected. Canali confirms its commitment in India and strengthens the retail network.

Brand News|RTW PorSCHe DeSIGN The Porsche Design Spring/Summer 2014 Collection – titled New Digital Ambiguity – is inspired by the impact of digital culture on design. Therefore, the luxury brand reinvented fashion classics with a modern peachiness. The new fashion collection for men and women is available in the worldwide Porsche Design stores.

Structured yet relaxed, constructed and undone, the brand has applied the most cutting edge techniques in garment construction to familiar yet forward looking shapes. The womenswear collection is a modern and pure revival, establishing technical fabrics as high end material. The Porsche Design Spring/ Summer 2014 Menswear Collection is following the same principles by using even more straightforward shapes. It avoids the unnecessary and accentuates the functional elements of modern design and apparel. Every design component has a dedicated purpose. This is to be seen in the collection’s Car Coat, where the rubber band can be used to adjust to different physical shapes. A modern peachiness is created by the use of technical inspired details such as magnetic locks instead of classical buttons or sealed seams instead of conventional stitching.

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RTW|Brand News Parv The store PARV, situated in Bangalore’s cosmopolitan Whitefield area attempts to bring meaning to various festivities and celebrations for its multi-ethnic, multi-cultural audience. Two professionals with a combined work experience of over 40 years put together ventured to test the concept. Manish Saksena, a Lifestyle and Fashion expert and Sanjay Agarwal, a Retail Architect by profession decided to pool their distinct skills and a common passion to give form to this entity PARV. PARV is a small boutique format store consciously designed to exude homely warmth and a very endearing feel that is anything but transactional. The materials used are indigenous and the usage is minimal. The effect thus is calming and not over powering. The products support the retail concept with a range of authentic crafts from all over India to original art by upcoming artistes who deserve a wider platform beyond the confines of galleries and art world. This is then complemented with lifestyle categories of apparel, jewellery and sarees. A common thread is in authenticity and sincerity of the products, all sourced directly from the craftsmen, weavers, painters and then retailed at the most affordable prices. Welcoming the artisans and providing them a conducive, celebratory environment to sell, is also what PARV endeavours to achieve.

NIveDItA SABoo Nivedita’s collections are a magnificent amalgamation of meticulously designed collections in custom fits, rich leather accessories, expertly handcrafted shoes, and classy formals.

Being in the industry for over a decade, Nivedita Saboo’s love for fashion and styling was incepted and valued at NIFT Delhi. She went on to garner further expertise as the Head of Design at Arvind Brands. Drawing inspiration from her experience, Nivedita conceptualized ‘Nivedita Saboo Couture’ in 2002. Her international presence connects global patrons to the Indian enthused quality textiles and detailed surface ornamentation techniques, which are rich in its ethnic charm.

The designer’s latest collection is a handcrafted line of shoes and accessories for both men and women. The collection is available at the designer’s Couture House that offers a bespoke couture experience.

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RTW|Brand News PumA For this season’s S/S 2014 collection, PUMA looks back to its sport heritage.

Connecting the dots from past to present, classic silhouettes are revived into fresh, new styles for today’s generation. Inspired by the product, athletes and football moments, which brought the Brand international acclaim, Spring-Summer 2014 unifies the PUMA icons of the past with the cultural aspects of Brazil.

Reinvigorating PUMA’s heritage, this collection takes a memorable journey to the streets of Brazil and fuses comic illustrations with elaborate tiling, travels to the depths of the Brazilian rainforest to pull out tropical prints and patterns, and offers respect to the national game of football.

PrADA CANDY FLorALe Prada’s latest fragrance, Candy Florale is evolved from the concept of an imaginary flower created especially for Candy. Blended by perfumer Daniela Andrier under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada, Candy Florale’s packaging design is fresh and feminine, with a vibrant pink and white palette. The bottle beams with pink floral tones, its lacquered curved bottom highlighting the light rosy liquid of the fragrance. The presentation box is also in distinctive pink and features an iconic Prada flower. Once opened, the box reveals a geometric pattern featuring Candy flowers.

Brand News|RTW

rAvISSANt Ravissant unveils its Prêt collection with contemporary designs and colourful prints, accentuated with exquisite patterns and designs. This collection includes tunics, skirts and bottoms and favours a montage of gara embroideries on silk, appliqué embroidery on satin fabric, mushroo fabric with ikatt and floral designed cotton. The collection features contemporary and Indian designs with flowing silhouettes and an explosion of colours.

wILLIAm PeNN William Penn is the one of the biggest multi-brand retail chains for premium and luxury fine writing instruments. The chain features over 20 well-known international brands such as Sheaffer, Caran d’Ache, Lamy, Lapis Bard, Sailor and several others. William Penn also retails top quality men’s accessories from international brands like Dalvey, Lapis Bard and Sheaffer. The brand currently has 25 outlets spread across Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Chennai, Kochi, Kolkata and an online store that provides an extensive range of products coupled with a unique customer experience.

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Fashion: Key Events

Gucci presents ‘Forever Now’ exhibition in Sao Paulo Gucci announced the debut of the House’s first temporary museum in São Paulo’s JK Iguatemi mall. The three-week Gucci Museo “Forever Now” exhibit opened on May 29th and replicated the House’s Florentine museum, a living space encapsulating its “Forever Now” philosophy that pays tribute to Gucci’s heritage while looking to the future.

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gift shop complemented the exhibition spaces to create a destination location for visitors. The exhibition narrates Gucci icons such as Bamboo, Flora, Made to Measure, Horsebit, Première, Travel. To commemorate the occasion, Creative Director Frida Giannini and President and CEO, Patrizio di Marco will host a private event the evening prior to the opening.

Gucci, a pioneer of the luxury online experience since 2002, has also announced the opening of its new website, guccimuseo.com, dedicated to bringing the experience of visiting the Gucci Museo in Florence to a global online audience. The site, which has been created to be fully responsive so as to provide an optimal viewing experience across all types of devices such as desktop, tablet and smart phone, is translated into eight languages (as is gucci.com). It is divided into three sections: The Archive, Gucci and the Arts, and The Museo; social networks are integrated to facilitate sharing (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube and Pinterest).

The bricks-and-mortar museum was opened in 2011 as the culmination of events to celebrate Gucci’s 90th anniversary. Gucci Museo is situated in Florence’s Piazza Signoria, inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia, which dates back to 1337 and stands today as a symbol of Florentine arts and craftsmanship.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion: Key Events

Harrods, the world’s famous department store presents ‘Pradasphere’ In a merger of two icons, Harrods, the world’s most famous department store, presented Pradasphere, an exuberant, monthlong exhibition that traces the diverse obsessions of Miuccia Prada from fashion and accessories to art, architecture, cinema, sports and beyond. Pradasphere was on display from 2nd to 31st May 2014 at Harrods Knightsbridge...

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ocated on the Fourth Floor of Harrods, the Pradasphere exhibition followed the ever-widening ambitions of one of Italy’s most influential fashion houses, presenting a broad spectrum of historic collections, special projects, collaborations and experiments. The exhibition included exquisite heritage items from the Prada archives; fabulous shoes and bags from the past collections; a Prada history wall that linked the brand’s extracurricular projects.

Pradasphere comprised of showcases dedicated to the central themes that distinguished the work of Miuccia Prada, highlighting her often groundbreaking approach to fashion and the profound effect she has had on design and the definition of beauty over the course of her storied career. The showcases combined work from many collections, genres and media to illustrate the methods Prada has employed in the building of her remarkable oeuvre. In addition to the Pradasphere exhibit, more than 40 of Harrods’ world-famous windows were dedicated to playful installations featuring the iconic elements of the Prada brand, innovative materials, architectural elements, video installations and highlights from a capsule collection designed exclusively for Harrods. That collection will be available in a special pop-up store located on the Ground Floor. Visitors also had the opportunity to order specially reissued ready-to-wear and accessories from Prada’s historic collections.

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Fashion Collaborations

Henry Holland enters India with ‘Koovs.com’ British fashion brand Henry Holland unveils its capsule collection this month inspired by vibrant colours and prints of India, on e-commerce platform Koovs.com

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est known as the creative talent behind the House of Holland label, Henry Holland has created a youthful, fun and irreverent aesthetic that epitomizes London style. Mixing bold colour, pattern and a dash of rebelliousness, his collections exude an arresting playfulness. For the Koovs line, the inspiration is about the Henry Holland ethos and the House of Holland ethos as well.

Creating some really strong, bold print stories and interpreting them into the right fabrications and silhouettes and fabric based on the Indian market is a key factor. The line-up has must-have pieces inspired by his signature style. The collection is called Henry Holland for Koovs and will be sold exclusively on Koovs.com starting the 15th May 2014. Firmly established in the international fashion scene, House of Holland now boasts an impressive roster of international premium stockists including Browns Focus, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Colette, Opening Ceremony and Barneys. Henry’s designs are worn by a bevy of global IT girls including Katy Perry, M.I.A, Cara Delavigne, Peaches Geldof, Alexa Chung and many more.

Koovs, the Indian fashion website has been set up by Lord Alli, the former Chairman of Asos, who recently roped in Roy Naismith, a former French Connection Executive and the Deputy Editor of British Vogue. Naismith, who left his role as Finance Director after twelve years, is now the Chief Financial Officer at Koovs. About 35% of Koovs will be floated soon. Lord Alli controls about 10% of the group, while just under half is held by the Nahata family, which also owns Indian telecoms group HFCL.

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Fashion E-Commerce

Kitsch launches online avatar ‘Rocknshop.com’ After moving out of Delhi’s DLF Emporio mall and into a standalone space in Defence Colony, multi-designer store Kitsch has entered its next leg of expansion...

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he sister duo, Charu and Priya Sachdev have launched the boutique’s online extension, called Rocknshop.com, a two-fold venture where the retail section is complemented with an online magazine. From casual-chic to red carpet, the website offers customers much of the same luxury selection as is available in stores: Marchesa, Halston Heritage, Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen and more, with the newly revamped and rebranded Saint Laurent (under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane) making its debut this month. The key feature of the website includes delivery within 24 hours and all the prices on the website being inclusive of taxes.

Textile Innovations

Invista brings consumer education drive ‘Lycra Fest’

Lycra brand fibre, an integral element in many of the world’s leading apparel brands is reaching out to consumers to provide them an opportunity to touch and feel garments with stretch at major malls and market places in India....

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his consumer education drive Called LYCRA Fest is making its presence felt in leading malls and popular market places of Delhi and Bangalore. The activity in Delhi started on 10th March and met with tremendous success in five major malls across Delhi. The Bangalore activity started on 18th March 2013 and continued till 24th March in major malls. These activities also helped the consumers to experience the garments (from leading brands) infused with LYCRA brand fiber. Avinash Chandra, Marketing Head - South Asia, INVISTA, said “Youngsters today are multi-tasking and want to showcase the world who they are and what they do. They like to own things which allow them to be themselves and enable them to achieve their stretched goals. The remarkable properties of LYCRA brand fiber enhance all fabric and garments in which it is used, adding easy comfort and freedom of movement, and improving fit, shape retention, drape and crease recovery.” LYCRA brand fiber is an essential ingredient in fashion today, driving innovation and working with designers and brands to produce stylish, beautiful clothes.

LYCRA branded fibers are found in all types of garments from underwear and swimwear, jeans and tailored suits to sportswear, hosiery and sweaters. The brands participating in the LYCRA Fest are Lee, Wrangler, LP Jeans, Numero Uno, Triumph, Wrangler, Body Care, Miss-T, Goverson’s Paris Beauty and Winta. Several other international and Indian brands use LYCRA fiber extensively.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Acclaim

Rahul Mishra wins 2013/14 International Woolmark Prize Rahul Mishra was recently announced as the winner of the 2013/2014 International Woolmark Prize (IWP), during the final awards event held at the Triennale Museum, Milan...

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ahul Mishra who is known for his contribution to Indian handlooms, has been continuously working on empowering and employing the Indian Craft Community through his sustainable design interventions. The brand’s philosophy revolves around integrating the rich heritage of Indian craft with the constantly varying pulse of global fashion. Rahul Mishra became the first non-European designer to win the prestigious scholarship at the Istituto Marangoni, Milan, and in 2009 he featured in the list of the top 20 young Indians who would shape India’s future for VISION-INDIA 2020. More recently, Mishra featured in ‘the Power List of 25 most influencing Indians’ by ELLE magazine.

An esteemed judging panel including Frida Giannini, Franca Sozzani, Tim Blanks, Colette Garnsey, Angelica Cheung, Alexa Chung and representatives from the global IWP retail partners, selected Rahul Mishra – representing India and the Middle East – as the winner.

“For me, Rahul has won because of his ability to apply his knowledge of embroideries through wool, one of the most versatile fibres with originality in an unexpected way,” explained Frida Giannini, Gucci’s Creative Director soon after the announcement.

After a global search, reaching across 20 countries and involving over 48 designers, five talents reached the final round: ffiXXed, for Asia; Christopher Esber, representing Australia; Sibling, for Europe, Rahul Mishra, India and Middle East; and Altuzarra, for the USA. Alongside prestigious recognition, Rahul receives a financial contribution of AU$100,000 and the opportunity to be stocked in the most important retailers around the globe including Harvey Nichols, Saks Fifth Avenue, 10 Corso Como, Joyce, David Jones, Colette and mytheresa.com.

“His interpretation was so delicate and beautiful,” said Alexa Chung. “I was really moved by Rahul’s story. I believe he is well deserving of this award.”

Rahul Mishra’s Merino wool collection, that won the prestigious award, was based on craftsmanship and his incredible knowledge of techniques and embroidery. The designer declared: “I feel like this is a dream and this is giving me new hopes for my future career. This award will change the perception of global fashion in regards to Indian fashion and this is all because of wool – an amazing fibre, the fibre of possibilities.”

The collection will be available in partner retailers globally from August 2014. The nominees for the 2014/15 IWP regional competition will be announced in April 2014.

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New Horizons

H&M to open its doors in India this year Clothing retailer H&M have announced further global expansion plans, with news that they are to open their first shop in India in 2014, after having received the government approval to invest in the country in December last year...

“We are very excited to open our first store in India. It is one of the most exciting countries in the world right now, with so much potential,” H&M’s CEO Karl-Johan Persson said. The global brand plans to spend an estimated US$130 million in bringing fast fashion to 50 stores across India. It has been given permission to invest about US$115 million. H&M has almost tripled store numbers over the past decade to over 3,100 outlets in 53 countries, but still makes most of its sales in Europe (80%) rather than Asia (6%). The new stores in India are part of a plan to open 375 new stores worldwide in 2014, including in China, Australia and the Philippines, the company said.

New Entry

Bangalore software firm forays into luxury brand retailing Bangalore-based software company, Unilog Content Solutions has made its foray into luxury retail through Fervour – a high street store which has licensed several luxury and fashion brands like DSquared2, Nina Ricci, Iceberg, Christian Lacroix and Frankie Morello...

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atsal Poddar, the co-founder at Unilog Content Solutions and also a fifth-generation serial entrepreneur, his first foray in to luxury retailing began with setting up - CRISP, a concept store in a high-end shopping district of Bangalore, which sells around 30 luxury and fashion brands. Success of this store led to the latest initiative – Fervour. In Fervour, he bagged exclusive licensing rights to five major Milan and Paris based very high-end luxury brands - DSquared2, Nina Ricci, Iceberg, Christian Lacroix and Frankie Morello. The company also plans to introduce the fall/winter collection of Paul & Joe and Marc Jacobs sometime in August 2014. Revealing the company’s future plans, Vatsal Poddar has said that the company plans to expand to Hyderabad and Chennai in the first phase as these markets with a large number of high net worth individuals still have an unmet demand for these products. Later, the company plans to go pan India with Mumbai, New Delhi and Kolkata. The present Fervour store size is around 2000 sq feet and those which are going to be set up in the future will also range between 2000-3000 sq feet.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Acclaim

Wendell Rodricks honoured with Padma Shri award Wendell Rodricks, the Goa-based ace designer who has been named for the Padma Shri in the category of Art (fashion designing), was felicitated in March 2014 to celebrate this great honour that has been bestowed upon him...

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e is one of the names in the fashion industry to have revolutionized the Indian ramp scene and also promoted it globally.

Wendell has a unique signature style of blending ancient Indian geometry with Goa’s relaxed style. He is one of the founders of Lakme Fashion Week and is the most popular GenNext mentor who discovered designers like Rahul Mishra, Swapnil Shinde and Masaba Gupta.

New Openings

Ritu Kumar opens first flagship store in Dubai Ritu Kumar ventures onto international shores with its first flagship store launch in Dubai. India’s leading fashion icon and Padma Shri awardee, Ritu Kumar recently announced the opening of the new store located at the bustling BurJuman Mall, a premium destination for finest luxury brands in Dubai...

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ith this new store, the Ritu Kumar brand has increased its presence to over 35 stores globally and is now working on massive expansion plans to increase its footprint within India. The store has been designed keeping in view the new contemporary look and feel of the brand and

the layout reflects an innovative approach to interior design that puts Ritu Kumar’s collections at centre-stage. Spread over 1900 sq ft, the store seeks to offer the discerning Dubai populace a wide variety and range that has universal appeal.

The store will stock the latest Spring Summer’14 collections from all three sub-brands; Label – Western prêt apparel, Ritu Kumar - Ready to wear Indian ethnic apparel and Ri – Festive and occasion-wear. Ritu Kumar is one of India’s foremost designers.

She has developed a unique style of her own, reflecting the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary vocabulary. While Ritu Kumar’s forte lies in traditional Indian clothes that draw heavily on the textile and embroidery heritage of India, she has also evolved another style for the young buyer, a collection that in her words has “redefined traditional handwriting to meet the changing needs of the new generation”.

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Fashion Shows

Designers present avant-garde collections at MBFW Tokyo The first two days of the ongoing Mercedes Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) Tokyo showcased avant-garde Autumn/Winter 2014-2015 collections from both local and international fashion designers...

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hai womenswear label Sretsis, which spells backwards as sisters, opened the Japanese sartorial event with its playful clothing range. Designed by the brand’s main stylist Pim Sukhahuta, the line featured flower decorated off-shouldered voluminous dresses, cropped jackets and frothy belted frocks. Japanese brand Dressedundressed, owned by designer duo Emiko Sato and Takeshi Kitazawa, drew inspiration from the Japanese gardens for its new catwalk presentation staged on the second day of the soiree. Based on Japanese minimalism, the line included kimono style outfits and fluid coats in vibrant hues. Fashion label Somarta, owned by designer Tamae Hirokawa, combined art and fashion into its white crystal encrusted knitted collection which included fur lined capes and sweater dresses.

Legendary British brand Beatles’ famous roof top concert in the year 1969 played as inspiration behind Beautiful People’s Across the Universe range which showcased several plaid and houndstooth jackets and shirts.

Fashion Acclaim

ISKO presents Denim Marketing Awards in support of ‘I-Skool’ Rome’s La Sapienza University played host to ISKO and Archroma, the fabric colouring specialists and the benchmark for the entire sector, together with Creative Room and Menabò, for the official launch of the award scheme...

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his competition is one of the supporting activities for ISKO I-SKOOL, the education and training project for young design students, organised by ISKO and Creative Room with partners Advanced Denim by Première Vision, Lenzing,

MOLESKINE and Swarovski. The project centres around the exclusive capsule collection created by ISKO and Archroma using the innovative Advanced Denim technology, owned by the former Clariant brand, that is at the cutting edge of sustainability. The students are asked to develop a complete marketing platform for this collection, including graphic design for product identity, all-round communications strategy together with possible promotional events. The communications and marketing agency Menabò Group, with wide-ranging experience in the fashion industry (among others) and which partners ISKO and Archroma in their corporate activities, will act as special tutor for the project, making their decades of experience in communications and the development of marketing strategies available to the students and offering them support in developing their ideas. Prize-winners will be offered study grants and the opportunity for internships at the companies involved in the awards. After the presentation, ISKO, Archroma and Menabò chaired a seminar, part of the cycle entitled “I professionisti della moda”, (The Fashion Professionals), coordinated by Fabiana Giacomotti, head of the Fashion and Costume Studies course at La Sapienza University, involving a round table addressing the themes of creativity, innovation and marketing in the fashion sector. Marco Lucietti (ISKO), Albert Llort (Archroma), Andrea Masotti (Menabò) and Umberto Brocchetto (ISKO Creative Room) provided a detailed explanation of how to build a supply chain marked by value and excellence and capable of communicating the plus points of the ingredient to the end-consumer.

Fashion Shows

Young & known talents show at Melbourne Fashion Festival A heady concoction of seasoned as well as up-coming Aussie design talents showcased their avant-garde lines of eclectic clothing on the second day of the ongoing Melbourne Fashion Festival (MFF)...

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uxurious everydaywear fashion brand Bassike, owned and operated by designer friends Deborah Sams and Mary Lou Ryan, featured a very chic meets edgy collection. The sleek yet bold line displayed black and white checkerboard dresses, stretchy leather trousers, panelled skirts, printed jumpsuits and shimmering bright red loose-fitting tops. Famous Australian eveningwear design label Rachel Gilbert once again wove magic with its floor sweeping gowns and cute cocktail dresses. Embellished with hand beading, monochrome prints and glittering specks of metallics, the range featured miniskirts, military-inspired coats, nipped at waist flared numbers and lace-detailed figure hugging pieces. Other than the glitzy runway presentations from Australian labels, the second day of Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival also honoured the Paris-based brand Strateas. Carlucci, headed by the Aussie designer duo Peter Strateas and Mario-Luca Carlucci, with the highly coveted Tiffany & Co. National Designer Award. The Parisian label showcased its men’s and women’s collection Pyrite on the same day of the event. Based on sombre shades of black, white and grey, the architectural-cum-sculptural range included tailored pants, jackets, cropped jackets and luxurious overcoats.

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Corporate Initiatives

Woolmark & Raymond partner to launch Cool Wool in India In a continuous effort to promote wool as a trans-seasonal fibre in India, The Woolmark Company and Raymond have entered into a partnership to launch a complete new Cool Wool collection for Indian customers...

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ool Wool was introduced into the Indian market in March 2013 at Mumbai’s India Fashion Forum, targeting the trade industry. Now, the consumer campaign - which is part of a global campaign - is reaching out to a new generation of consumers, with the global authority on wool teaming up with India’s leading menswear brand and the leading manufacturer, marketer and retailer of worsted suiting fabrics over the past eight decades: Raymond. Through this partnership, The Woolmark Company aims to change current misconceptions that wool is only suitable for cold climates.

The idea is to educate the Indian customers, on the true potential, versatility, and the benefits of using wool in summer and Raymond’s Cool Wool menswear collection exemplifies the infinite possibilities of using wool. Indian designer, Gaurav Jai Gupta also presented a Cool Wool collection for Raymond, that features contemporary styling, finesse, and subtle designs. The collection will be introduced in the market from April 2014 at Raymond stores and leading multi-branded outlets in the country.

It includes 100 per cent wool fabric as well as blends with natural fibres including silk, cotton and linen.

Business of Fashion|RTW New Openings

Sisley’s Rich & Raw concept store in Berlin Sisley debuted its new concept store in Berlin, the first of its kind worldwide.

The shop, at 12 Neue Schönauser Strasse, is in a highly prestigious location among some of the most exciting retailers in the city’s Mitte neighbourhood: 14 oz and The Kooples...

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he new Sisley concept store Rich&Raw encapsulates the brand’s fashion and, at the same time, its contemporary and cosmopolitan identity transforms shopping into a sensorial experience and the brand into a form of performance art. In this new store, Sisley finds itself alongside some of the German capital’s coolest shops, including Mitte 14oz and The Kooples. The brand offers an experience of future cohabitation with cultural and historical signals from the past.

In order to enhance the impact of the Sisley brand, each new shop will have its own distinctive nature and unique features.

The concept for the new Berlin store is inspired by Bernardo Bertolucci’s masterpiece, The Dreamers: the atmosphere is of a period Paris apartment, originally luxurious, with a sense of freedom, style and seduction. The vitality of Sisley is expressed in sophisticated interiors. In tune with this romantically decadent atmosphere, the walls are characterized by peeling paint; a preference is given to oval shapes, present in the mirrors, tables

and other items of furniture. The floors are in a black and white chequer pattern, made of salvaged wood. The ceiling, with a shiny lake green lacquer finish, reflects the warm and suffused glow emanating from the cognac-coloured chandeliers.

Together with the natural light, and filtered by black grilles, the overall effect is that of a sensual dusk. The changing rooms, closed off by fabric panels reminiscent of old white sheets covering furniture in empty houses, have unfinished walls revealing the brickwork. An ideal setting for the presentation of Sisley S/S 14, which proposes dynamic, contemporary cuts for womenswear in keeping with the spirit of Berlin. Clothes and accessories are displayed naturally on freestanding rails, easy to move, so that the layout can be rearranged effortlessly, according to the demands of the collections, without impacting the store’s atmosphere. This flexible solution, which preserves the location’s ambience, also renders the store the ideal location for hosting events.

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Fashion Collaborations

British label Dorothy Perkins debuts exclusively on ‘Jabong.com’ Jabong.com the popular Indian multi brand e-store with over thousand trendy international High Street brands; launched the “must have” women’s wear British brand, Dorothy Perkins with a stylish show at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014...

DOROTHY PERKINS

NOw in INDIA LAUNCHED EXCLUSIVELY ON SHOP BRAND

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he Dorothy Perkins debut in India with Jabong.com caters to women from sizes 6-22 with its collection, which is ideal for the 9 to 5 dresser as well as after 8 glamour. Stylish clutches and cross body bags in a variety of colours and designs complete the look of the collection. Talking about the collaboration, Arun Chandra Mohan, Founder and CEO of Jabong.com stated that as a part of Jabong.com’s strategy, the portal will continue to offer global fashion to the Indian consumer by giving them access to trendy international high-street brands such as Dorothy Perkins. Mr. Malcolm Storey, Managing Director, Dorothy Perkins stated that through Jabong.com, Dorothy Perkins is looking forward to create a strong fashion offering for the Indian market.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Collaborations

India Circus first Indian label to tie-up with ‘Nordstorm’ India Circus by Krsna Mehta, the label for all things contemporary, affordable, Indo-centric, and sophisticated ties up with US based retail giant Nordstrom, being the only Indian Label to partner with them...

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ordstorm is famously known in USA to offer the customer the best possible service, selection, quality and value. With over 261 stores located in 35 states, with 117 full-line stores, 141 Nordstrom Racks, two Jeffrey boutiques and one clearance store, Nordstorm is a one stop solution for everything Unique. India Circus products will be available on Hautelook , the online marketplace by Nordstorm, a place with thousands of the top fashion and lifestyle brands at amazing savings. India Circus will showcase beautiful antiquities and eclectic bazaar finds at Nordstorm. Replete with the Bohemian Colour fantasy range of painted porcelain dishes, coloured candle votives, Ikat table runners and vibrant throw pillows, this gift boutique encompasses treasures inspired from destinations around the globe. Each far-off home fashion here adds worldly style and spirit. “India Circus is a design house which believes in attention to detail and so does Nordstorm. We are so excited about the tie up! Each thing that we design has to be something unique and precious. The Bohemian Color Fantasy range at Nordstorm will bring new life to humble abodes across the globe” states Krsna Mehta.

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Fashion Acquisitions

Premiere Vision acquires Cuir à Paris show from SIC Première Vision S.A., worldwide leader in fashion industry trade shows, acquires, through its subsidiary Modamont SAS, the Cuir à Paris show from current owners SIC S.A., which is a division of the professional organisation of the French leather industry...

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he operation has been effective from March 2014, and allows Première Vision to become the organiser of the Cuir à Paris show as of the edition held from 16-18 September 2014. Cuir à Paris, a show specialised in leather and fur for international fashion and design industry professionals, is approximately 15 years old. In 2005, it joined the Première Vision Pluriel show ensemble, held in February and September at the Parc d’Expositions de Paris Nord-Villepinte. It has an annual turnover of approximately 6 million euros.

Market Focus: Europe

Premium Exhibitions & Munich Fabric Start join forces For the coming season, the two owner-operated trade show companies, Premium Exhibitions II GmbH and Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH will be joining forces for a new cooperative endeavour in the city of Munich...

In taking this step, two well-established events will be coming together to combine their experience in successful trade show management, leading to a synergistic, optimal utilization of resources and potential. With this association, the two partners will be creating in Premium Order Munich a trade show format that will focus in the interests of the textile and clothing industries. This cooperation means that Premium Order Munich will be relocating to MOC beginning from the upcoming summer season. As a result, Premium Order Munich will be able to fulfill the high demand for exhibition space

in Munich and also be able to respond flexibly to the needs of the fashion branch in the future. The MOC space is part of the Messe München GmbH exhibition company and has long been host to Munich Fabric Start, the international fabric trade show which is held on the premises twice annually.

With 40,000-square-meter space provides exhibition space on multiple floors, creating the ideal conditions for Premium Order Munich, which in this summer will be making use of a projected three halls. Effective immediately, Premium will conclude its activities in Dusseldorf and focus on the cities of Berlin and Munich: Berlin as a leading international trade show and kickoff to the season, and Munich as a wrap-up to the ordering season with bridge to Austria and Switzerland.

Business of Fashion|RTW Market Focus: Europe

Mipap attended by 3,757 profiled buyers MIPAP, the international women’s ready-towear event, organised by Fiera Milano...

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n its three exhibition days, MIPAP introduced the newest ideas in 150 brands for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2014-2015 season, and was popular with both Italian and international professionals who appreciated not only the variety and quality of the collections but also the bright, open and welcoming exhibition installation.The 3,757 profiled buyers visited the event, reporting an increase of 18% over the February 2013 edition. The result confirms the true spirit of the event, designed and constructed for a well-defined target of buyers and complementary to the other trade fair engagements across the region. This exhibition project has rewarded the companies that brought products featuring a essential Italian flair that can combine quality and design at the right price. MIPAP was also a prime opportunity to share the captivating new ideas and inspirations on recent trends. Furthermore, MIPAP worked in conjunction with NIBI, an institution of international business, to set up two training engagements that described business opportunities that the Emirates, Qatar, China and Hong Kong can offer. Also at MIPAP, the theme of eco-sustainability was approached with products and processes introduced by architect Isabella Goldmann. MIPAP’s next edition will take place from 20 to 22 September 2014 for the presentation of the Spring/Summer 2015 collections.

Market Focus: Europe

Momad Metropolis The second staging of Momad Metropolis, the International Fashion Trade Show, an event organised by IFEMA, closed its doors with highly favourable results with a total of 21,112 buyers attending the show, a 21% increase compared to last September’s event, which took place at Feria de Madrid...

This highly favourable figure confirms the strong backing that the clothing and footwear industry provides for this event and strengthens MOMAD’s role as the grand multi-sector fashion trade show on the Iberian Peninsula.

MOMAD also coincided with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, which staged its 59th event on the same dates at Feria de Madrid. The next edition will be held from 12th to 14th September 2014, and will coincide with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid and Giftrends, International Gift, Jewellery and Fashion Jewellery Week, thus making up one of the largest showcases for fashion and new trends in Europe.

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Fashion Initiatives

Charles James: ‘Beyond Fashion’ The Costume Institute’s new Anna Wintour Costume Center opened on May 8, 2014 with the inaugural exhibition Charles James: Beyond Fashion, on view till August 10, 2014, which examines the career of legendary 20th century Anglo-American couturier Charles James (1906–1978)...

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he exhibition is presented in two locations–the new Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery in the Anna Wintour Costume Center as well as special exhibition galleries on the Museum’s first floor. The exhibition explores James’s design process and his use of sculptural, scientific, and mathematical approaches to construct revolutionary ball gowns and innovative tailoring that continue to influence designers today.

The Museum’s Costume Institute Benefit took place on Monday, May 5, 2014, in celebration of the opening of the exhibition and the new Anna Wintour Costume Center.

The evening’s Chair was Aerin Lauder. Co-Chairs were Bradley Cooper, Oscar de la Renta, Sarah Jessica Parker, Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch, and Anna Wintour. This event is The Costume Institute’s main source of annual funding for exhibitions, acquisitions, and capital improvements.

Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Shows

34th Portugal Fashion The 34th Portugal Fashion took place recently in Lisbon and in Porto and proposed signature fashion, commercial lines and young designers in an event with international visibility.

Portuguese fashion for Autumn/ Winter 2014-15 was presented under the theme, “Organic”, celebrating fashion as a living, pulsating and an unrepeatable organism...

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fter 4 fashion shows in Lisbon in March, this 34th edition put together, at the “Alfándega de Oporto”, from the 27th until the 29th of March, 22 fashion designers and 17 commercial labels, distributed in 28 fashion shows, showing the most relevant faces of portuguese fashion. Besides the famous designer collections such as Alves/Gonçalves, TM, Anabela Baldaque, Diogo Miranda, Fátima Lopes, Júlio Torcato, Luís Buchinho, Carlos Gil, Luís Onofre, Miguel Vieira, Katty Xiomara (among others) the talent of young designers was confirmed, such as Daniela Barros, Estelita Mendonça and Hugo Costa y Susana Bettencourt.

The platform for young designers,“BLOOM” offered more than 10 new creators, becoming Pedro Neto the winner of this new contest edition. Approximately 100 international guests attended to this event, mostly journalists and commercial agents. Portugal Fashion is a project of the responsibility of ANJE - National Association of Young Entrepreneurs in partnership with the ATP - Textile and Apparel Association of Portugal, currently being funded under the NSRF Compete Program Competitiveness Factors Operational Program.

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Denim: Product Innovations

VICUNHA Trendspotting: The Re-invention of Jeans As a key trend of the S/S 2015 collections, denim is surprising with new interpretations and finishings from casual to chic. Contemporary and urban or classic and timeless: for decades jeans are a constant in fashion productions...

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ICUNHA fabrics are playing a main role at the catwalks and are seen in very different styles. Vicunha’s latest new product line, Athletic Denim is an extraordinary denim textile with an elastic stretch content of 76% for maximum comfort, elasticity and fit. Due to the high elasticity, this line is perfect for styles with a body-hugging shape without losing the element of comfort. The indigos with innovative appeal from the product line also were a highlight within the collections of other brands: urban denim look on the outside and workout outfit feeling on the inside. This season, the blue fabric appears in different looks, ranging from those sporty and casual to the more elegant and with a touch of tailoring. The jeans resurfaces reinvented, and gains new interpretations with a mix of different textures and fabrics, bleach and stone washed, with lashings, cut-offs and patches. An item essential for those looking for style and comfort, denim returns to the spotlights in recent weeks’ national fashion shows seen at Brazilian and International brands such as tng, Amapô, Espace Fashion & Herchcovitch.

Business of Fashion|RTW New Horizons

Gucci expands its presence in India with a new store in Kolkata Gucci opened its sixth store in India recently. Located at the recently opened Quest Mall, the House’s new shopping destination spans 2350 square feet – making it the largest luxury boutique in the Mall – and boasts a design concept by Creative Director Frida Giannini...

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atrizio di Marco, Gucci President and CEO, said: “Gucci has been directly operated in India since 2009. The brand has established a strong recognition in the country and among Indian customers living in the most important luxury destinations around the world. The decision to open a new store in Kolkata, which will be the third metropolitan city in India where Gucci is present, is wholly consistent with our overall retail strategy, which seeks to continuously increase the direct control of the brand so as to further enhance the consistency of the consumer’s experience.” Di Marco continued: “Gucci is the perfect luxury brand for this market, because of its strong brand heritage stemming from decades of tradition and innovation”. At the Gucci Kolkata store, clients will receive a comprehensive range of Gucci products including handbags, shoes, luggage, small leather goods, silks, watches, jewelry, fragrances, sunglasses, the children’s collection, and gift items. The store’s new and innovative design concept boasts of open space, warm luxurious materials and natural light to spectacular effect, which is a departure from traditional codified fashion retail spaces, and paves the way for Gucci’s 21st century contemporary look.

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Fashion Forecasts

Milano Unica showcases Trend Directions for F/W 2015-16 Milano Unica, the Italian Textiles Trade Show is an authority on the best of Italian fabrics & textiles offerings and it recently presented its F/W 2015-16 Directions characterized by boldness and experimentation...

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he presentation was held in the presence of exhibitors, specialized press, designers and product experts from the foremost fashion houses and style studios on both the domestic and international level. “This type of synergy is fundamental for the success of textile-accessory production” proclaims Antonella Martinetto, President of Moda In, “because it increases dialog between the two main Fashion players, producers of top-end materials and the vast, varied world of designers. Above all, because it offers the opportunity to create a common vision and feeling between two industries that represent the strong point of our country. The presentation of the Directions is an essential instrument in guiding professionals on their visit to the Trend Area of the Fair, making them more aware.”

The Trend Area is an added plus to our Fair, explains the General Manager of Milano Unica, Massimo Mosiello, “that we have also brought to Milano Unica China, where it was enormously successful. For the latest edition in March, we also brought the Directions, with a special presentation that was of great interest to Far Eastern clientele. Being trendy is a must for an important market in continuous evolution.”

In addition to recognized international qualities, Italians have often been accused of individualism: even under this profile, we will be trendy for Fall/ Winter 2015-16. It will be a season marked by healthy individualism, with a strong sense of personal, where the spirit of each individual will be able to thrive using experimentation and daring.

As per Angelo Uslenghi, Milano Unica’s trend expert, the theme for the season focuses on boldness and experimentation, that the Italian and European textile-accessories industry can provide as instruments to dare with color and brightness, portraying one’s personality in a cosmic utopia, without indulging in superfluous or excessive details”.

There are two guidelines: on one hand, an atmosphere of force and sobriety typical of the masculine side of one’ personality, on the other hand, an impulse to “think grand”, touching a spectacular nature. The value shared by both the Directions will be: self-expression….”because I am worth it”.

The next edition of Milano Unica is scheduled for September 9-11, 2014 at the Portello in Fieramilano.

FASHION Shows & Trade Fairs S/S 2015

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Frankfurt, Germany

Ambiente As in the past, this year’s Ambiente was an inspiring design platform for the whole sector.

Showcasing trends for the table, kitchen and household, around 4,700 exhibitors presented products for the table, kitchen, household, gifts and decorations, as well as interior concepts and furnishing accessories‌

An ideal venue for efficient sourcing Held in February 2014, altogether, 144,000 buyers from 161 countries attended the world’s leading trade fair for the consumer-goods sector.

Moreover, this leading international trade fair for the consumer-goods sector is the most important platform for the high-volume business outside China.

Suppliers from China, India, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Thailand and many other countries present a wide range of products ranging from

industrially-made goods to handcrafted articles in large quantities, and solutions in the customising field.

Numerous special presentations, trend tours and awards ceremonies took Show. One of the main highlights was the trend show by trend bureau bora.herke.palmisano, which presented the four main trends expected to dominate the product assortments of the retail trade during the coming season.

Great interest was also shown in the special Design Plus Award exhibition. This year, 30 products were honoured for their special design qualities. As in previous years, another magnet for visitors was the ‘Solutions’ special show – curated and organised by Londonbased product designer Sebastian Bergne. To be seen were 23 new products from the tableware, kitchen and housewares segments, distinguished by functional innovations and outstanding creative solutions. With the ‘Next’ promotional programme, Ambiente 2014 also provided a platform for young, creative companies. The programme is aimed at start-ups, which have already gathered initial business experience and now want to take their first steps towards the international market in Frankfurt.

This year, 32 young manufacturers and design studios presented their new collections in the Next areas at the Young & Trendy, Carat and Loft sections.

Partner Country Japan: the Land of the Rising Sun at Ambiente 2014 Innovative design, clear lines and traditional handicrafts skills blended with a big and colourful pinch of joie de vivre – a combination that makes Japanese products unrivalled throughout the world. This was to be seen vividly at the ‘Super Ennichi’ special show created by Japanese designer Yukio Hashimoto as part of the Partner Country programme of Ambiente 2014. The highlight of the programme was Japan Day on the Monday of the fair when all eyes were on the Land of the Rising Sun at a variety of events including a business panel on gaining a foothold in the Japanese market and a tour of the fair with actress and super model, Rila Fukushima.

At Ambiente 2015, the USA will present its world of consumer goods within the framework of an extensive programme of events.

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Giving trends: clever out of doors and relaxed at home Ambiente in Frankfurt signals the start of the new season for all segments gathered around the gifts industry. Whether amusing, creative or innovative, whether for at home or out of doors, for decoration, enjoyment or relaxation, for a whole five days the exhibitors in the Giving segment presented the latest trends and gift ideas.

Watches – carved out of genuine wood With watches, the Vintage and Used look are still very much a theme, with very light skin-flattering wood irresistibly asserting itself as a material. The large chronometers are oriented towards the fashion in pink gold, taupe, nude and pastel shades. Other models set cheeky accents with the dots and stripes of the fifties. In the medium term, watches, especially ladies’ watches, will once again become somewhat smaller and more elegant.

Growing green Be it young or old, town or country dweller, ‘green fingers’ are completely in line with the trend, with well-known brands offering exciting sets of planters made of textile, Tyvek and stone in natural colours and fashionable green.

Harmony in copper, natural and white Combining wood and/or silver with white provides a feeling of dignity and freshness. Outside, rustfinished wrought-iron work with the enchanted look of the romantic age decorates flower pots and beds.

What is generally noticeable is the careful workmanship that has gone into the materials.

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Designed to be used The days are finally over when useful everyday articles were eschewed by designers. Now, we find fire extinguishers, for example, making their appearance in a surprising design or hiding behind an attractive camouflage. On the ceiling are lifesaving smoke detectors, sitting there bold as brass, like flies or blotches of paint. And for those ‘charged’ especially with maintaining order there are cans, boxes or chests of drawers that look like old batteries.

The design of music Trendy headphones, mobile Bluetooth boxes and smart music systems have become such a firm feature of the world of gifts that we can no longer imagine what it was like without them.

The last word in this respect is a ghettoblaster made of cardboard for an iPhone connection. Now the digital gadgets are being joined by numerous ‘analogue’ home accessories and kitchen gadgets.

Beauty & Wellness: fruity fragrances dominate A pleasant fragrance is wellness for the soul. In spring, candles with floral notes such as hibiscus enliven those spirits that are tired of winter, to be followed by a great deal of citrus freshness in summer. Exclusive oriental brands, familiar perhaps to frequent travellers from design hotels, are now being sold in European stores.

Excellent craftsmanship The convincing element in the case of genuine jewellery is the artistic work, set apart by the creative mixes of materials and the excellence of craftsmanship. Frequently, porcelain can be seen here, placing individual accents, partly of selected retro motifs, partly as almost architectural works. Then there are the jewellery artists, who incorporate fashionable colours and design using elaborate processes to create individual pieces.

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Paris, France

Maison&Objet More than five hundred new exhibitors participated in the recent session of MAISON&OBJET PARIS. The January 2014 edition of Maison&Objet Paris closed its doors having shown promising signs of renewed vigour and expansion...

This significant increase illustrates the event’s undeniable appeal. This is particularly true for international exhibitors, who see Maison&Objet as the most effective platform for expanding their business. Maison&Objet Paris has become the European show at which the greatest number of Japanese decor and design firms choose to exhibit.

The session marked increase in international visitors with the return of European visitors, but also a significant increase in overseas-export visitors.

Maison&Objet Asia Maison&Objet Asia closed its first edition after four days of successfully bringing together all home lifestyle components, gathering together players in the sector, revealing talents, stimulating the market and promoting creativity at the Marina Bay Sands Convention Centre in Singapore from 10 to 13 March 2014. The event was a major event of the Singapore Design Week. The inaugural edition saw a total of 13,709 visitors while the International visitors to the show made up 51 percent of total visitorship. In addition to Singapore, the top countries from which visitors hailed included Indonesia, Japan, the Philippines, Australia, Thailand, Malaysia, China, Hong Kong and Republic of Korea. Maison&Objet Asia also welcomed over 300

international journalists over the four days.

The Interior Design & Lifestyle Summit, which featured some 20 conferences, covering five different themes, was also well received with a total attendance of 3,500 people. The show will return to Singapore from 10 to 13 March 2015, expanding its presence over two floors of the Marina Bay Sands Convention Centre.

Maison&Objet Americas Maison&Objet has announce another milestone: the new Maison&Objet Americas show, to be launched in Miami Beach on May 12-15, 2015. This brand-new event is designed to provide the sector’s players with a new way of doing business and boosting their profile, as well as bringing together, for the very first time, design and interior professionals from North and Latin America.

As is done at Maison&Objet events in Paris, Maison&Objet Americas will be presenting a Designer of the Year award in Miami Beach. The Maison&Objet Americas 2015 Designer of the Year will be selected from among top American designers who have distinguished themselves in their design fields. The winner will be invited to design a dimension of the Miami Beach show and serve as an ambassador for Maison&Objet Americas.

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Milan, Italy

Milano Unica The Textile Innovations seen at Milano Unica’s Milan and Shanghai edition, confirm it’s Made in Italy leadership. The Far Eastern market too becoming more attentive to western luxury fashion, demonstrated by purchases of finished Italian products…

The 18th edition of Milano Unica, the Italian Textiles Trade Show, at Fieramilanocity, showcased S/S 2015 textile collections with the participation of 398 exhibitors, of which 72 from other European countries...

The Inauguration The traditional inauguration ceremony was attended by institutional authorities and representatives, journalists and numerous exhibitors along with Milano Unica Committee members. The inauguration ceremony of the 18th edition was attended by Silvio Albini, President of Milano Unica, Diana Bracco, Cavaliere del Lavoro, President of Expo 2015 SpA and General Commissioner for the Italian Pavilion

Section, Claudio Marenzi, President of Sistema Moda Italia, Cristina Tajani, Councillor for Work Policies, Research, University, Fashion and Design, Milan City Council, Carlo Calenda, Deputy Minister, Italian Ministry of Economic Development, who, while examining the issues and the opportunities of the market, also underscored the contribution that Italian fabrics may give to the success of Expo 2015.

Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW Milano Unica, Shanghai The trade show dedicated to Italian high end textiles and accessories successfully ended its flagship event for entire Chinese high end apparel industry. Held in Shanghai, in March 2014, the trade show showcased the S/S 2015 collections of the Italian textile supply chain, The 124 exhibitors from all of the Italian textile districts brought the excellence of the Made in Italy products to China with an increasing number of textile manufacturers specifically dedicated to womenswear.

Far Eastern market, which is becoming more attentive to western luxury Fashion, demonstrated by purchases of finished Italian products and top end semi-finished articles, necessary for the development of Chinese fashion, which has grown in quality and volume over the last few years. The positivity confirms the trend of the Chinese market. In fact, it reflects the increased quality of Chinese apparel production, increasingly oriented towards higher standards in terms of quality, innovation and service. Therefore, the answer to the needs of the luxury end consumers of the world’s soon to be largest economy, who have become very sophisticated and demanding in terms of product traceability, seems definitely to be Italy. The show also registered an increasing interest in womenswear. Milano Unica China started as an event mainly dedicated to menswear, but now womenswear too is registering a change reflected in the Chinese market, with a significant growth and increase in its market share. The next appointment in China is scheduled for 20-23 October 2014 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.

19th Edition of Milano Unica, September 2014 The 19th Edition of Milano Unica will see Japan presenting “Japan Observatory” in a special area within the exhibition ground where exhibitors, representing the country’s manufacturing excellence, will have a chance to expand their high end offering through the presentation of complimentary fabrics, rich in innovation and mainly dedicated to sportswear technology. “Japan Observatory” is organized by the Fashion Week Organization, the Japanese association grouping all operators of the textiles and apparel sectors, fashion designers and distributors. The Milan appointment is scheduled for 9 - 11 October 2014 at Fieramilanocity, Milan.

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Milano Unica S/S 2015 Trends The Italian and European culture, with its long history, has strongly influenced textile tradition. Textiles, art, craftsmanship, expertise; knowledge, experience and know-how are the intrinsic values stamped in the collective conscience of people.

The S/S 2015 trends suggested by Milano Unica re-propose the value of basics that can be capitalized by innovation.

The Directions focus on two themes: Smart Basic and Haute Craft. However, an intelligent basic is more difficult to create than a haute craft product, although the latter has to depend on competence and expertise.

Milano Unica S/S 2015 Fabrics: • • • • •

Vegetal freshness with linen, cotton, bamboo, nettle Veiling, transparencies, mesh, extreme lightness Minimal-chic with organic spirit and linear design Braiding, inlay, incrustations to create uniqueness Multidimensional decorations to place like “living pictures” • Accessories: handicrafts and tradition updated with nanotechnology

Milano Unica S/S 2015 Colours: • Focus on Chromatic Eclecticism, subdivided into 26 nuances in 4 ranges: • Serenity: sophisticated sobriety • Sparkling: lively harmony • Sense: eccentric exoticism • Sharp: urban modernity

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Milan, Italy

Salone del Mobile Milano Being the most important in its sector in terms of creativity and innovation, Salone Del Mobile once again establishes itself with the greatest international showcase for furniture and design.

Mr. Saverio Lombardi Vallauri

The 53rd edition of the Salone del Mobile opened its doors at the Rho Milan Fairgrounds from 8th to 13th April, along with the International Furnishing Accessories Exhibition, SaloneSatellite and the biennial EuroCucina / International Kitchen Furniture Exhibition – with its collateral event, FTK (Technology for the Kitchen) – and the International Bathroom Exhibition.

The value of the work presented at the Salone del Mobile was appreciated by visitors from more than 160 countries; the numbers of this year ’s successful edition were above expectations: +10% of total visitors and +13% of design and furniture professionals for a total of 357,212 visitors, 311,781 of whom operators.

Prime Minister Matteo Renzi also visited the fair on 11 April, expressing gratitude for the know-how on display and affirming that this sector is an extraordinary example of a dynamic Italy, capable of overcoming difficulties and re-launching its business culture.

The 1,400 exhibitors ranged over 152,300 square metres and were split into three different style categories – Classic, Modern and Design – to provide a functional, logical and 360° visitor path through the world of furniture and furnishing accessories. Salone is today a global platform for all the latest in home furnishing for its innovation and internationality.

Welcome Project 2014 Bolstering this international role, the Salone del Mobile 2014 launched its Welcome Project, organised in collaboration with the Municipality of Milan and the city’s Department of Fashion and Design, with input from the Milan schools: Domus Academy, the Istituto Europeo di Design (IED), the NABA, Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti Milano and the Milan Polytechnic University/Design School.

In partnership with the Milan Fairgrounds, SEA and ATM, posts were set up at focal points throughout the city, where 100 students were deployed with Samsung tablets uploaded with the Salone del Mobile. Milano 2014 App and a link to the ATM (Milan’s Transport Agency) site, in order to provide visitors with useful information on accessing the Fairgrounds, moving about the city, and the trade fair itself.

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EuroCucina 2014 & FTK (Technology for the Kitchen) From classic kitchens to designer kitchens, brick, wood and laminated plastic kitchens, EuroCucina catered for every style and taste with 128 exhibitors ranging on 24.800 square metres. FTK (Technology For the Kitchen) is not just an opportunity to observe innovative built-in technological products; it is also a window on the future, presenting prototypes and concepts of things to come in the field of domestic appliances. Both FTK (Technology For the Kitchen) – commanding 9,800 square metres inside two of EuroCucina’s four pavilions and SaloneSatellite have been geared to innovation. Conceived as a platform for fostering contact between the under-35s and companies exhibiting at the Salone del Mobile, the exhibition is devoted to young designers.

International Bathroom Exhibition The International Bathroom Exhibition is a growing and dynamic event, reflecting the transformation that bathrooms have undergone over the last few years.

Traditionally strictly functional spaces, bathrooms have now become mini spas for bodycare and wellness. The exhibition had 174 exhibitors ranging on 17.900 square metres.

SaloneSatellite: design, innovation + craftsmanship As an incubator of design talent, the SaloneSatellite, returned as the reference point for young people wishing to enter the world of design. “design, innovation + craftsmanship”: the theme responded to the growing need felt by young designers for an integration of artisanal tradition with the new possibilities offered by modern industrial design and production. The exhibition was enlivened by 650 participants, 16 international design schools and 4 artisanal workshops where 4 skilled professionals from the Textile, Ceramics, Leather and Digital worlds demonstrated how products are conceived, progress and evolve before coming into our homes. The Design Talks, four conversations moderated by journalist and writer Cristina Gabetti, dedicated to the theme “Talents meet Talents,” explored the way in which artisans work and provide an opportunity to dialogue with them. Lastly, the SaloneSatellite Award, open to the under35s, now into its 5th edition, rewarded the 3 best prototypes dovetailing with the product categories showcasing at the trade fair.

Where Architects Live “Where Architects Live” was an exhibition that tells the story of the homes and private spaces of eight of the world’s foremost architects in the form of a great 1,600 m2 multimedia installation. Spaces that could be strolled through, like a great promenade architecturale, in the contemporary domestic landscape. Eight world-famous architects opened the doors of their “private dwellings”.

Conceived and curated by Francesca Molteni and Davide Pizzigoni, “Where Architects Live” chronicled an exploration/incursion into the homes of Shigeru Ban, who has just won the 2014 Pritzker Prize, Mario Bellini, David Chipperfield, Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas, Zaha Hadid, Marcio Kogan, Daniel Libeskind and Studio Mumbai/Bijoy Jain. Eight signed interiors dialogue amongst themselves and with the cities, international metropolises undergoing radical metamorphosis: Tokyo, Milan, Berlin, Paris, London, Sao Paolo, New York and Mumbai.

Salone Exhibition

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Florence, Italy

Pitti Immagine–Uomo Pitti Uomo interprets contemporary menswear and with each edition it redraws the map of the fair, focusing on the products and looks that are leading today’s markets. From the excellence of Made in Italy to the edgiest fashion research, from special projects produced by the world’s leading designers to previews of women’s collection, to support for young talents: Pitti Uomo is the most complete, innovative and market-oriented Menswear showcase in Florence...

Pitti Uomo 85 and Pitti W 13 closed on a very positive note with a reassuring increase with respect to last January’s attendance figures. There were over 1100 brands at Pitti Uomo, plus the 73 women’s collections at Pitti W. With a determined focus on internationality – confirmed by foreign participation – almost 40% of the exhibitors at this edition came from over 30 countries – and nearly 21000 buyers who make up the Pitti Uomo community – over 30,000 visitors represented the world’s major large and small retailers.

The 2014/15 fall-winter collections at the Fortezza da Basso proved that they are oriented towards research and innovation. The styling and manufacturing quality of the finest Italian and international labels was flanked by varied and contemporary looks presented by new names and young designers carefully selected by the Pitti scouts. The foreign attendance was steady with buyers from the finest international concept boutiques, department and concept stores. The number of buyers from the USA – as the global benchmark - rose by 10%. There were also retailers from South Korea, Sweden, Holland, Eastern European markets, Canada, Australia and the Arab Emirates.

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DIESEL BLACK GOLD, Guest Designer Pitti Uomo 85 The Special Guest at Pitti Uomo 85 was DIESEL BLACK GOLD designed by Andreas Melbostad. The Norwegian-born Melbostad has recently attracted the attention of the international fashion community with his impeccable urban style and rock-chic soul interpretation of the brand’s DNA. Andreas presented a world premiere of his men’s collection with a runway show.

London, Sao Paolo, New York and Mumbai.

STELLA JEAN, Guest Designer Pitti Italics The Italian-Haitian designer, Stella Jean, as one of the Pitti Italics, presented her new men’s collection. Stella Jean Homme, that made its debut at Pitti Uomo in June 2013, came in the wake of the “Wax & Stripes Philosophy” – a strong cultural syncretism between the distant peoples and western traditions – was featured in a fashion show-event at the Dogana of Via Valfonda.

Pitti Italics, is the Pitti Immagine program that promotes and supports the new generations of fashion designers who design and manufacture in Italy and also have great international appeal.

Stella Jean’s collections have evolved in a continuously changing melting pot of craft skill and cosmopolitanism and how they vehicle an aesthetic and social concept, with great interest. They spring from a heterogeneous mixture – like the tailored Italian striped shirt and African tribal prints – an expression of the multiculturalism we feel so strongly today.

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Trends at Pitti Uomo CLASSICO 50 Shades of Tailoring A return to more structured tailoring and a full awareness of how to combine classic looks with nonconformist hints. A wardrobe with its roots in the British matrix, infinite textures, patterns and details, and then reinterprets it by starting from research on materials and treatments to present it all in a soft version.

The accent is on tartans, checks, Prince of Wales and madras patterns; false solids; bouclés and knops created 3D effects on coats and jackets.

Fine gauge Shetland wools, flannels to caress and important carded fabrics, plus exclusive, luxurious materials such as pure, piece-overdyed cashmere. There are fabrics for super-warm coats and yet, they are so light that they can be used for jackets – and even double-face versions.

Technical materials like scuba or neoprene are coming forward with a contemporary touch.

The focus is on...

• The micro-jacquard patterned Shetland wool jacket • The Black Watch jacket in washed wool and nylon with a special 3D effect • The wool jersey jacket with a necktie print lining, and the soft jacket that almost seems like a sweater.

• The blazer coat, duffle coat and car coat in woven cashmere or tweed wool in basic shapes embellished with fur collars and trim, or completely unlined and reversible.

• For leisure wear it’s the tech down jacket with cashmere jersey lining, or prints with a warm, woolly look.

Knitwear, The Land of Innovation The season’s iconic knit is made by mixing different stitches and yarns in a harmonious play of contrasts.

They only look heavy: the feel is impalpable. Micropattern cashmere and extra-fine merinos wool neckwear. Revisited houndstooth, and Prince of Wales effects are obtained un unusual blends of fine yarns.

Barely-there jacquard patterns on alpaca and elastic knit jackets. Textures and novelty stitches create raised effects on knitwear: from little sweaters to vests, from cardigans to coats. Sweaters resemble short jackets, with stitches and textures blending together on technical materials for total comfort, or on printed, deconstructed knit jackets.

English Brogues for the Businessman walking around the city A return to a classic punctuated by metropolitan accent, and the English Brogue is updated. A blend of elegance and comfort, a bulwark of style that never overlooks function: these are shoes designed for today’s businessman who walks around the city.

The formal allure of Anglo origins joins hands with twenty-first century sensitivity: hand-finished lace-ups in exclusive hides discover new shapes and combine them with rubber bottom stocks and soles that are treated to make them softer and more supple than ever. Total craftsmanship is the distinguishing feature; thick, but super-lightweight Goodyear construction soles. High quality materials – from naturally tanned vacchetta to soft calfskin to suede – are sometimes hand tinted with a technique that gives a vintage patina – and all in warm tones like burnt brown and amaranth.

The focus is on …

Edgy colour combinations and two-colour and dualmaterial effects – suede and abraded, airbrushed and abraded calfskin, as well as calfskin and tweed – in the new cobalt blue and lead gray derby with a subtle touch of glamour.

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INfOrmALE Sections: I Play, Urban Panorama, My Factory

No Ordinary Traveler The anatomy of an eclectic: he is attracted by distant places and cultures, he loves to feel at home anywhere in the world, but he moves in perfect time with the rhythms of the city. His wardrobe is a mixed of items inspired by motorcycling, workwear, technical mountaineering clothes and menswear classics – and all made for multi-tasking. Natural fibers – cottons and wools with a robust look – join hands with highperformance materials, in a surprising harmony of aesthetics and function. It’s a meeting of different worlds, where individual pieces are put together in outfits that are never clichés. Lightweight – and often fold-up – field jackets for travel packing take up a minimum amount of space and offer maximum comfort. Parkas and coats that are waterproof and can breathe, with wind stopper or water repellent features become even more versatile: they can be reversible or totally composite with removable linings, down padding and vests, and detachable furtrimmed hoods. Wools, flannels, jerseys and leathers are treated with innovative finishes and enhanced with techno details that give them a totally new look.

The focus is on …

The pure wool knitted car coat is treated with a special water-repellent finish; the parka is shorter than ever and combines woollen elements with the insulation guaranteed by goose down and Thermore components. Multi-pocket trousers are made of water-repellent, wrinkle-proof, easy-iron stretch techno-wool that also breathes. And there are waterproof shoes, hats and accessories to wear with it all.

The New Bags: Icons of Urban mobility On the arm, bags with minimalist lines and an environmentally responsible spirit, are ultrasturdy and 100% waterproof thanks to special coatings and tech-materials; they have multiple pockets and die cast zippers. They are perfect for new bikers who just can’t – or won’t – leave their computers at home, they are lightweight and have the right space for each device. These bags are destined to become icons of urban mobility: designed to protect their contents, even on the road, and in bad weather, in a variety of shapes for all occasions, from the contemporary rucksack to the briefcase, from the messenger bag to the tote.

The Anarchic Spirit of the New Underground Style The city’s subcultures are bringing waves of aesthetic contrasts: the spirit of the new underground style’s manifesto is iconoclastic and anarchic. Youthful irreverence is the guiding theme for collections by labels with a tough, street matrix that proudly say that they are “Fearless, Independent and Original”. Individuality is the key; a philosophy of cut & paste and pick & mix drives the juxtaposition of different influences: from military to streetwear with a British or U.S. matrix, from rock’n’roll all the way to work wear and preppy.

The focus is on …

Unusual references and unlikely combinations in outfits that mix oversize tees with bright lettering and graphics with sleeveless field jackets and skinny or cigarette pants, flip-flops and helmets. And there is more, alongside of sneakers that combine modern art and graffiti writing, the creepers, the iconic shoes from the 1950s worn by London’s Teddy Boys, are back! Shoes with character, thick soles and a rambling accumulation of dandy influence and an inclination towards punk.

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RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs

AvANT-GArDE Sections: Futuro Maschile, Touch!, L’Altro Uomo, New Beat(s)

The rainman has class Galore Clean lines, unusual materials and new finishes join up with sartorial attention to detail in impeccably cut coats – truly unique items that will definitely be part of the avant-garde man’s wardrobe for next winter. Being prepared for weather is a matter of style: the new generation rain coats and trench coats have a masculine look that combines quality, sophistication and an urban flair. These are the fundamental features that make it possible to be elegant even in the worst weather. Here are garments with a timeless appear inspired by the ongoing dialogue between shape and texture. Eclectic in composition and architecturally structured items mix knit and tech materials, with workwear notes and impeccably tailored lines, making them perfect for travel, seasonless and even suitable for unisex wear. Biker jackets, bombers, pea coats and parkas are designed for fit in natural materials like wool and cotton combined with tech fibers to create 3D effects or are treated for water repellence and performance. Here is an elegance made of sartorial items that have really lived, of decommissioned military clothes worn in civilian life and industrial coats from a time when mass-produced items were made with skill and care.

The focus is on …

Rainwear has never been so sophisticated. From the duffle coat to the raincoat, from trench coats to reversible overcoats, everything is carefully designed for fit, and made in a way that brings heritage values into industrial manufacturing. The must-haves meet their impeccable matches in the new “wear everywhere” items like the quilted techno-wool biker jacket and the ultra-light down padded knits.

Contrasting Details, marks of Style The Next Generation man considers ready-towear and accessories as one and the same thing.

Contrasting details – in colours and materials – are a constant theme and sign of total sophistication on coats, cardigans, hats and scarves, but also on rucksacks, pochette and footwear. Sailor, biker, bomber jackets and parkas offer an updated take on menswear classics, with different colour combinations and new shapes.

Experiments on knitwear extend to new associations: knit + nylon, knit + leather or knit + down, and juxtaposed patterns: placed stripes, contrasting sleeves in maxi-houndstooth and maxi-Prince of Wales checks. Sneakers and caps dress up in refined geometric motifs created with the latest printing technologies.

The focus is on..

Roomy, natural leather totes have vulcanized rubber bottoms – attractive and functional at the same time, and the rucksack embraces a love for multiple materials in mosaics of leather, cotton canvas and metal fittings. Colorful seams and different nuances on trims and laces of the new dandy’s lace-up shoes, where the hands of skilled craftsmen create chiaroscuro and shinymatte effects.

CALL FOR APPLICATIONS

RTW Magazine presents…

Fashion & Design Residency in Italy Duration: 1 month RTW Foundation is preparing itself for its first Fashion & Design Residency Program. This 1st annual Residency program will take place in Italy in the beginning of June 2015.

The upcoming Residency Program 2015 has been developed around an intensive time spent within the fashion districts of Italy and will culminate with visiting some of the top Italian brands & design houses as well as interactions with various Italian fashion houses and fashion/design institutions.

The residency program will be rewarded to 1 emerging talent from India, adjudged and selected on the basis of an evaluation by selected Jury members.

Visit the rtwmag.com / Residency page to have access to more information.

Procedure to Apply Using our Trends featured in RTW’s current magazine, the students will send in: 3 Concept notes + Mood Board of their proposed collection for Fashion / Design residency program, along with a Cover letter & Curriculum Vitae. Samples of previous works.

RTW will cover the cost of travel and will be able to provide a suitable accommodation. The residency is scheduled to last four weeks through the beginning of 2014.

Chosen applicants will undergo an intense schedule interacting with fashion industry in Italy. The deadline to receive all applications is October 15, 2014. Chosen candidates will be informed by January 15, 2015.

RTW Fashion Incubator is a not-for-profit organization & the RTW Resident Program is RTW’s premier membership program. *Residency based on compliance as per the Government Permissions & Visa Authorities.

For more information, please visit www.rtwmag.com

Show Report

Rina Dhaka

BEST OF

RTW WILLS INDIA FASHION WEEK A/W 2014-15

Pankaj & Nidhi

Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week is a five day event marked by the display of exquisite talent of 119 designers, a mix of established and upcoming designers from all over the country. Creating strong waves of innovation and style the show takes the Indian fashion to a larger global market and audience.

Featuring the mesmerizing collections of established designers such as Abraham & Thakore, Tarun Tahiliani, Anita Dongre, Ashima & Leena, Rahul Mishra, Sahil Kochchar and many others, the show was a great success. Will Lifestyle India Fashion week brought together buyers, designers - both debutant and established names in the industry, at a single platform that has been a success coming into its 24th edition.

Led by the extravagance of Indian fashion presentations, the showcased collections featured a true synthesis of modernity overlaying tradition.

FUTURE DATES: A/W 2014-15 Edition October 8-12, 2014

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AbrAhAm & ThAkore • Highlighting ‘Uniform dressing for the city’, the collection consists of a palette based on the golden hues of wild silk, evoking many shades of khaki with its references to safari, uniforms and combat.

• Along with the classic fabrics and textures of tussar, muga and eri silk, tussar and other wild silk yarns to weavers all over India, the collection explores different techniques from different regions.

• Silhouettes are mostly Indian and military inspired.

wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

AniTA Dongre • Resonating Gypsy charm & combining the contemporary boho luxe sensibilities, Anita Dongre’s Urban Folk Tale collection celebrates modern woman with relaxed and easy silhouettes, an infusion of prints, dash of folk and highlighted with the timelessness of the Indian weaves.

• The rich prints in the collection is splashed in warm hues of indigo, olive, plum, and chocolate.

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AnupAmA DAyAl • The collection titled “Kama” is inspired by Vatsayana’s Kamasutra and Mira Nair’s film by the same name.

• Celebrating pleasures of life & erotism, the collection highlights Indian easthetics with traditional textiles, embellishments & Indian body forms in brilliant shades of yellow, green, tangerine & red.

• The fabric brocades, Tangail, Chanderi, Zardozi, gottapatti, pearl embroidery & hand prints sensuously wrap the collection with appeal.

wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

AshimA leenA • This collection is a melange of aesthetics with enchanting Oriental influences, Central Asian Arabesque inspirations of the haute tribal, to extravagant Indian.

• The jewelleries are juxtaposed with prints echoing the rich brocade textiles of the regions.

• Silhouettes highlight the rendering of Persian garden, carpet prints and Taj motifs, all reinventing old patterns of magnificience with glamorous accents bringing a new spin on tradition.

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pAnkAj & niDhi • Titled “House of Cards”, the collection is inspired by the colourful evolution of playing cards.

• Inspired by Imperial China, Spain & Portugal, silhouettes & embroideries bring out the flamboyance of matador costumes with Spanish boleros, cascading capes, brass buttoned high waist pants, skirts & turn-back jackets. Colours manifest with patterns, crafted through dexterous embroideries & graphic prints.

wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

jenjum gADi • “Turkish Delights” is inspired by the designer’s travels through Turkey & in particular, by the local Turkish ‘Iznik art’.

• The art form is combined with Arabesque patterns with Chinese elements in colours of cobalt blue & turquoise.

• Jenjum recreates the motif using fine beads & ribbons on a palette of bold colours giving the Iznik aesthetic, a gentle North Indian tug.

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nikAshA • The collection reflects an era of luxury, of boudoir & ultimate romanticism • Leisurely silhouettes like slip blouses, sheer ruched tunics, muslin & chanderi saris andtranslucent kaftans are embellished with precious hand embroideries like thread French knots, diamante and pearl encrusted floral and vine motifs.

• Subtle shades in peaches, coral red, pinks & wine compliment the recreated archived Chintz print.

wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

pAyAl prATAp • The collection “Winter Blossom” is inspired from the Japanese kimono.

• Organic prints, environment based embroideries with Japanese motifs & the symbolic cherry blossom is reproduced in a coral print with geometric graphic detail.

• The colours range from black and white, to a tint of jewel tone hues, petrol, plum & gold on a rich array of fabrics comprising satin, silks, velvets. The shapes are multilayered and inspired by Samurai hakama.

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piA pAuro • Inspired from Scottish glam rock with a hint of Tudor, the embroideries & prints are aesthetically drawn from Tudor roses, traditionally used on stain glass windows in medieval churches. The embroideries are also inspired

by William Morris-an important artist of the medieval age. • The flamboyant costumes and visual style of the performers heavily influence the collection & are incorporated with detail to the garments.

wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

rAhul mishrA • “The Lotus Effect” is inspired by the belief that, according to Lord Buddha the eight petal white lotus is found in the Garbadhatu Mandal (womb) of the world.

• An outcome of engineered progressive graphics emerging out of the Eight Petal Lotus, the hand embroideries in pure merino wool yarn create an ultra soft feel.

• The Tie-dye & permanent Bandhini on merino wool jersey is a result of scientific innovation.

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wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

Sahil Kochhar • “Phuler Tora” meaning bouquet of flowers in Bengali celebrates the craftsmanship of ‘Shola Pith makers’ based on a strong tradition of fabric, aesthetic & artistry.

• The shola pith is crafted beautifully, in versions of ivory and gold 3d hand cut embroideries.

• The silhouettes are architectural and highlighted with corrugated silk floss satin stitch embroidery, playing peek-a-boo with contemporary floral motifs revealing flashes of skin.

• The colour palette ranges from pristine ivory to blues, teamed with red, bordeaux and slate grey melting into jet black.

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wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

Tarun Tahiliani • Blurring the lines between adorning and dressing, the collection is inspired by ornaments found all over the world.

• Details of gold finery deck the collars and cuffs giving the illusion of layers of golden thread. The collection reaches a closure with Mughal influenced – the signature stone-work, miniature paintings & mango shaped motifs which are treated with Swarovski Elements to represent a delicate glamour.

• Colour palette ranges from neutral ebony, ivory to vivid scarlet, indigo, purple and gold. Flowing skirts, pleated swing tops, dhoti pants and draped saris are in abundance.

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wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

TanVi KEDia • The collection “The Vintage Gypsy” is about a traveler’s cultural catharsis and her adventures through Pakistan, Afghanistan and India.

• The look is hippie-deluxe, where everything flows in breezy gypsy fashion but in luxurious richness.

Sandwiched stripes, colorful patterns and hazy informal geometrics add to the global mélange.

• The line consists of dresses, jackets, tunics, skirts and palazzos.

• The colour palate varies from toffee brown, emerald, deep turquoise, navy, pale gray, purple and black with bright pop coloured accents.

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VaiShali ShaDanGulE • “Bhinna Shadja” is inspired from the Raag Bhinna Shadja of Hindustani classical music.

• Shades of ivory, white, gray, black, off-white, gold, cream and eggshell are seen on contemporary silhouettes rooted in Indian tradition.

• The silhouettes are a mixture of construction & drapes combined with soft drapes & delicate pleating. Also there are woven motifs of wool, textured embroidery of cord & evenly tied beads in the clothes.

Weaves used in the collection vary from woven silk to khadi.

wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

ShruTi SanchETi • The collection is heavily inspired by the unique lifestyle of the British women of the ‘Raj’ who came along with the East India Company.

• The colour palate is in accordance with the imperial preferences like oxblood, navy blue, deep purple, crimson, burgundy, and teal, burnt orange. The base fabric is pure woven silk, along with velvet, raw silk & lace.

• Silhouettes are heavily inspired by the convoluted & flamboyance of that period but with a contemporary twist.

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wills india Fashion week A/w 2014-2015|RTW

VinEET Bahl • “Utsav” is about celebration and enjoying everything life offers.

• Beautifully embroidered outfits in a colour palette ranging from soft cream and eggshell to red, gold and orange, with the closing outfits in Prussian blue, mehendi green and French plum are a celebration on the ramp.

• Tussar georgettes and Banarasi handloom are used throughout the collection, also brocade and mal-mal with varying patterns of hand block prints of chevrons and polka dots are put to use.

• Embroideries are treated to create textures like sheets of checkered patterns of hand sewn sequins and beads.

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aShiSh, Viral & ViKranT • `La Dolce Vita’ is characterized by extreme simplicity, flawless lines, immaculate cuts & perfect finishes.

• The dresses, an absolute red carpet fit are enough to make heads turn.

• Jackets with ‘in cut’ seams moulded around the body, crisp white shirts, swirling circle skirts highlight the fit & flare flavoured silhouette. The smoking tuxedo suit line adds just the right mix of laid-back elegance and modern decadence.

• These masterpieces feature fitted cuts and a variety of chic lapels in fabrics such as mohair wool blends to provide luminescence.

• Dominating colours in the line are white and different hues of blue.

Show Report

Mawi & Gaurav Gupta

BEST OF

RTW LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK S/S 2014-15

Purvi Doshi

Lakmé Fashion Week- Summer-Resort, one of the premier shows of India came forward as a scintillating event of vibrant colours, patterns and innovations in the Fashion world. The beautiful colour palettes, the summer theme and silhouettes all featured the show’s essence in excellence. The show comes together to celebrate the talents of some of the finest established and upcoming designers in the country.

In its 15th year, the show witnessed a line-up of 98 famous designers from 16 cities including debutant, international accessory designer Mawi Keivom. Popular designers - Shyamal & Bhumika, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Anita Dongre, Anju Modi, Tarun Tahiliani, Krishna Mehta, Neeta Lulla and Gaurav Gupta were amongst others who presented their lines at the show.

Twenty three next gen designers marked their debut at the event, including names like such as Mandira Bedi, Karan Berry and Leon Vaz, Monica Shah and Karishma Swali, Urvashi Joneja, Veda Raheja, Amy Grewal and others.

FUTURE DATES: A/W 2014-15 Edition August, 2014 (Dates to be announced)

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Lakmè Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

GauranG SHaH • The ‘Chandbali’ collection brings out a line of majestic ethnic wear highlighting affluence, beauty & touches of nuptial brilliance.

• The collection in rainbow colours signify royalty and grandeur. Dedicated to the modern brides, the garments are like a renaissance of traditional Indian textiles.

• The collection boasts of hand-woven Banarasi sarees, dresses, lehenga, & floor length kalidaar in shades of red, pink, yellow, orange and green.

• The couture line is worked with Indian motifs. Beside ‘Chandbali’ embroidery, the designer chooses khadi, organza & brocade as fabrics & revives the ancient ‘Jamdani’ weaving style.

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Purvi DOSHi • The “Renaissance” collection is created from the modest basic pure cotton fabric.

• The cultures and styles of Europe & Gujarat from 1400-1600 centuries inspire the garments.

• Featuring floor length gowns, flared minis, long sleeved collared kurtas, printed palazzos, waisted black dress with embellishment & tops, the colours are in red, grey, deep green, and indigo.

• The show closes with multiple colour blocked diaphanous gowns that are lush in style & design.

Lakmè Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

KriSHna MeHta • The uniquely woven fabrics are an ideal base of the collection called “Magic Woven in Maheshwar”.

• Fluid pants, flared skirts, cool blouses, comfy tunics and swirling scarves pay tribute to the traditional weaves for summer wear. The colours start with basic black, white, grey, red and moves to orange, fuchsia, aqua, indigo, purple and variations of the same hues.

• Layering, prints & weaves, appliqués, along with shibori make the collection implausible.

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SHruti SancHeti • Titled “Le Pondi”, the collection is inspired by the beauty of Pondicherry & its tranquil influences.

• A mix of intricately woven Temple weaves with trendy pastel colour borders accentuate the collection.

Expertly woven with a 150 thread count, the base fabric is teamed with silk, natural calico cotton, lace and cotton silk.

• Silhouettes are marked French influences while the colours createa riot of hues.

Lakmè Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

KariSHMa SHaHani KHan • The collection called “Kaam Kaaj” pays homage to traditions & focuses on the craft of Ajrakh, block printing & natural dyeing from Gujarat.

• Inspired by the garb of local vendors, workers and tailors; the collection has touches of gamchas, shirts, lehengas with utility pockets for inners and outers. Hints of embroidery appear on various garments & give the collection a classy appeal along with the generous simplicity.

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Lakmè Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

SHantanu & niKHil • The collection is inspired from the designers’ mythical, mystical, muse called Vanessa.

• Gowns with impressive flat collars, gathered peplums, edged longsleeved jackets, cape blouses, metres of organza swished over petticoats and embroidered bodices rule the ramp. Long kurtas float down the ramp, while sari gowns prestitched to perfection are teamed with ornate corsets.

• Light sheer fabrics like organza & raw silk are perfectly balanced with rayon blends & poly jerseys in the collection. Feminine delicate laces are highlighted with embroidery.

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JaDe • The collection fuses elements from the carefree vibe of the 1960s blended with the glamour of the roaring 20s.

• Figure–flattering gowns, elegant saris, stunning anarkalis & bespoke lehengas define the collection.

• Soft pastel colours artistically display through voluminous silhouettes. The ensembles are fashioned from fluid fabrics, lending an air of mystical elegance. The collection attempts at representing bohemian in a new avatar.

Lakmè Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Payal Khandwala • The collection called “A Perfect Fit” draws inspiration from men’s wear, maintaing the feminine elements but keeping them in the neutral category. Silhouettes are soft & fluid emphasized with perfect proportions • Geometric draping & pleating is used on natural fabrics such as cotton and silks. Colour white dominates the collections while other shades like deep blue, turquoise, magenta, orange, sun yellow, red and maroon add to the colourful assortment.

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Lakmè Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Mawi & Gaurav GuPta • The collection called “Aliens of Egypt” is a mix of archival pieces and new designs.

• The decadent designs are distinguished by their unabashed use of acid colours, glitter and the Mawi spike.

• This strong visual vocabulary inspires the designer to create this collection by juxtaposing the boldness and realism of Egypt.

• The starting point is Mawi’s jewellery, with ‘futuristic meets costume’ being the central theme for the show, which also epitomizes the style. The designers are also heavily influenced

by Egypt: the pyramids and pharaohs.

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Lakmè Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

tarun tahiliani • Tahiliani introduces ‘Le Kurta Nouveau’ with an attached dupatta for a chic transformation. The collection in summer cottons, chiffons, sheers & voiles feature bidri and jamazaar work, abstract art & chikankari. Asymmetry, layers & drapes add drama to the feminine ensembles.

• Gowns are followed by bolero with embroidered draped dhoti pants, black & white kurtas, saris with knitted lace gilets, drawstring kaftan, dhoti sari, lehenga cholis with net dupattas and kalidaar embellished kurtas. Indigo, mustard, fuchsia turn into sunset hues while the somber black, white, ivory & beige keep the tones under control.

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anita donGre • The collection is a tribute to the traditional Indian fabrics & is inspired by the handwoven cottons of Varanasi.

Prét separates with hints of couture touches offer a boho luxe look. The weaves are perfectly highlighted in pencil skirts, stately column gowns & cropped tops. Colours are dreamy as old rose, powder blue, buttercup yellow are teamed with nude, dull gold & pure white. Embroidery with beadwork & gentle shimmer highlight the show.

Show Report

Donna Karan

BEST OF

RTW NEW YORK FASHION WEEK A/W 2014-15

Donna Karan

Featuring a parade of the most exquisite designs by the top most designers in the industry the Autumn/Winter New York Fashion Week turned out to be a much popular event with returning and upcoming designers making it to the runway.

With clean lines, cocoon silhouettes and androgynous looks in fur, capes, feathers and shearling, this season’s collections was all about wrapping up against the cold. The collections were featured in pretty palettes, sixties prints and flashes of shining gold. From Karl Lagerfeld, to Valentino, and Jean-Baptiste Mondino with Saskia de Brauw the runway was covered with the collections of all the big names in the industry.

FUTURE DATES: A/W 2013-14 Edition 4 -11 September, 2014

With almost 100 designers at the runway the show was a extravagant array of colours, patterns, silhouettes, designs created by designers welcomed from across the world. The eight days of exclusive presentations and runway shows the collections were filled with layered fabrics, poetic designs on one hand and strong & edgy cuts & lines and soft & romantic lines on the other hand.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

AnnA Sui • The collection is inspired by serge Luten’s photographs for shiseido, fashion illustrations from la gazette du bon ton, biba, art deco jewelry, the interiors of rose cummings, and chinoiserie rooms and pavilions from European palaces and features the colours jade, Cinnebar and kingfisher blue.

• The overwhelming kaleidoscope on the ramp is a colour story of red which slowly shifts to greens, blues and purples. Garren New York hairstyle and Pat McGrath’s red lips complete the looks of the models on the ramp.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

BiBhu MohApAtrA • The collection follows the footsteps of Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass and is ladylike with the design sensibility • The focus on the collection is on color and movement. Sleeveless, micropleated, pink and floral silk twill shirt dress. Black ponte trousers with inverted pink side pleats, worn with a sleeveless pink floral blouse. Pretty version of the sleeveless peplum blouse in pleated white cotton poplin, worn with a black embroidered pencil skirt. Fuchsia, oneshoulder, embroidered stretch faille cocktail dress with draped skirt. Blackand-white “fracture jacquard” gown roll down the ramp.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

BoSS WoMen • The collection by designer by Jason Wu is inspired by the German brand’s modernist headquarters, which are apparently surrounded by lush gardens.

Softness and femininity highlighted the collection.

• Razor sharp layered dresses with a modern edge are the primary focus of the show. Leather and tartan sculpted shift dress. Fluid crepe dresses with Bauhaus-inspired embroidery. Little black dress with rippling chiffon panels down the front are the other attractions.

• Daywear in the variety of techniques and patterns bring out the modern effect.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

cuSto BArcelonA • The collection is a potpourri in terms of colour, fabric, textures and prints.

• The show starts off very cleverly with all-black looks that feature slight hues of pink. The show progresses through a series of unusual prints and patterns beyond the typical animal prints and sequins.

• Wearable is the middle name for this brand’s collection and they are famous for their effort and usage of every type of fabric such as fur, knit, leather, plaid, sequins in one collection. The textured garments are boldly crafted using sensible leather trimmings and the look is completed using designer aviators.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

clover cAnyon • Hallucinating patterns are the central theme for the collection.

• Irish icons like Oscar Wilde, stained-glass windows, tartans, and the Book of Kells all get equal weightage within the collection and is treated with a designer twist.

• Hysteric identities like lime green meadows, unicorns and fairies, and even Nichols’ great-grandmother finds place within the collection.

• Each piece tells a story and reveals a kaleidoscope of patterns like a black overcoat with a flocked, distressed royal blue tartan print.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

creAtureS of the WinD • Freaky yet easy in a more grown up way is the theme of the collection.

• Monastic fantastic. That is the look the collection played with using excitingly interesting fabrics and a 70s palette.

• A grounded practical look is brought out using black and white zebrastriped jackets in mink and mohair is worn with pants and a minimalist pair of flats.

• Two sweeping wool coats—one a deep emerald, the other dusty pink—that had big lapels and narrow shoulders are the star garments of the evening.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

dennis basso • A striking lineup influenced by great contemporary American artists launchs a stylized collection on the ramp. Hand painted satin, metallic tweeds, sequins & chiffon provides the backdrop for the furs. The majestic black-and-metallic brushstrokes rule the garments.

• From a classic strapless ball gown in royal blue to a pair of narrow burgundy pants, everything about the collection spells modern.

• Sable, chinchilla, broadtail and fox are often dyed in vivid colours to match extensively-embroidered gowns. A Bordeaux tulle gown with a goldbeaded bodice is a standout.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

diane von Furstenberg • The collection ‘Bohemian ‘Wrapsody ’ plays around the pun and brings out the signature dresses of the designer.

• Love knots, rosebuds, stars, moons, and clouds—in bold mix-andmatch combinations adorn the collection.

• The collection is a retrospective of sorts of the frock and patterns distinctly rule the looks.

• The central look in the show is a sweater-dress in an abstract cloud motif worn with a flared skirt, over the top of which a printed cocoon coat is worn by the model.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

donna karan • 30th anniversary of the designer label is the key to the collection this year.

The designer pays tribute to the city that inspires her & her collection.

• The chiffon, silk or wool fabric choices for the collection is glamorous & the intelligent usages of garments are really interesting. The cuffs in a jagged gold evoke thoughts of the New York skyline.

• Great jackets, over skirts in jersey or panels of silk chiffon, and a pair of great mid-calf dresses in charcoal jersey with sleeves or cut-out slices of illusion tulle complete the collection.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

desigual • The collection titled ‘For Everybody Sex, Fun & Love’ by the company’s M.D, Manel Jadraque is divided into three themes; fun, love and sex.

• ‘Fun’ presents a flirty Mediterranean inspired collection filled with colourful prints, polka dots, stripes and weightless fabrics. Eye-catching animal prints, bold symbols and sixties references burst onto the scene and get the party started in the ‘love’ section.

• The ‘Sex’ section presents sexy beautiful black sheer dresses with sequins & beading. Transparency & flimsiness is the key feature of the collection.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Jenny Packham • Duchess of Cambridge’s favourite designer works with her inspiration ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’ for her collection.

• The collection keeps modern with her use of colour and fabric with lots of current combinations like maroon and hot pink as well as lots of sparkles. Marabou feather trim is used liberally on cocktail dress hems.

• The collection is complimented by accessories like crystal chokers about the width of a medium bangle. Apart from that several vintage looking jewelry accentuate the collection.

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New York Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

ralPh lauren • A new Polo collection for women is introduced on the ramp.

• There are serape blanket coats and distressed leather bombers, a pinstripe suit, athletic outerwear in acid hues, and tweedy tailoring mixed with floral silk dresses and plaid scarves.

• The designer opts for a soothing monochrome palette of pastels and grays and justified rich materials like cashmere, brushed suede, satin pongee, and Mongolian lamb.

• From day to evening, as the collection unfolds, a collection of jersey, Silk jersey also finds its way onto gowns.

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tommy hilFiger • Seeking inspiration from ski-wear the collection and the backdrop breaths the ski-lodge in actuality.

• Cozy beanies, fleece-lined and fur-trimmed outerwear, patchwork tartan skirts, blanket dresses, shirt dresses, slouchy boyfriend denim, leather paneled coats, oversized knit sweaters and ponchos and tufted vets rule the ramp.

• Flat form slip-ons, lace-up boots, wedge hiking boots, cowboy boots, plaid totes and satchels are the add on for the collection. Clean face, makeup and naturally styled hair add the glitz to the collection

Show Report

Topshop Unique

BEST OF

RTW LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2014-15

Paul Smith

A scintillating collection of aura and definition the London Fashion week, 2014 shone in the spotlight of ultimate fashion display by a group of innovative designers from around the country. A package of big names in the fashion industry the show was a great success with trends forecasted for the coming months.

Featuring five days of edgy creativity and English quirkiness London Fashion Week is an image of the continued efforts to support new and emerging talent. The next gen designers featured at this edition included 1205, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Lucas Nascimento, Marques’ Almeida, Ryan Lo and Simone Rocha. Visitors from over 50 countries flocked the show and added to the popularity and value of the exhibition. Packed with a schedule of shows, presentations, installations, showrooms, events and parties from the best and brightest names in the industry the show was a great succes.

FUTURE DATES: A/W 2014-15 Edition 12 - 16 September 2014

With a host of shows lining the ramp, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Christopher Kane, Issa, Burberry and Prorsum were the much coveted ones. Others that outlaid an exquisite line of collections included House of Holland, Mulberry, Temperley London, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Erdem, Peter Pilotto and Tom Ford.

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London Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

BurBerry Prorsum • Christopher Bailey’s ‘The Bloomsbury Girls’ collection takes off from a light airy tone towards the darker tone and is artistically inclined.

• Some of the pieces offer a summery feel completed with white handpainted boots and dresses. Scarves with over-printed icons, painted flowerand-leaf prints are also brought out.

• Relaxed trench coats, trench coat ponchos, blanket ponchos, and equestrian topcoats in shades of larch yellow or bright olive.

• Handbags are also the highlight as, every piece of garment is complimented with a handbag.

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London Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Peter Pilotto • The collection is full of all the vivid colours, detailed prints and futuristic yet simple shapes.

• The collection is as colourful and vibrant as ever, with printed designs and embroidered origami folds.

• The silhouettes are futuristic and edgy complete with geometric patterns and vibrant colours.

• Coloured fur has been a major trend at London Fashion Week, with a hint of modernity sequins and appliqués.

• Fur is utilized quite sensibly in the collection.

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London Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Paul smith • This collection successfully brings out the subtle, sexy, masculine clothes for girls. Colours are rich and suitably autumnal.

• Mustard, burgundy, forest green - and a few combinations of sorts make the collection more colourful.

• Tailored suits, mannish coats, slim trousers, slim-fit sweaters, are all styled in a cooler-than-cool way. A printed silk coat and trousers resemble a man’s dressing gown and pyjamas.

• The models’ hair tied in bardot-esque ponytails at the nape of the neck, looks naturally chic, while some models flaunt nerdy oversized spectacles.

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toPshoP unique • The collection is centered on the disheveled girl. The one who has run away in bulky leather clothes and all her clothes seem to be falling off.

• Dusky gray suede knee-high boots are walked alongside a sophisticated selection of wool, silk and velvet skirts in mustard, steel and chocolates tones.

• Wide leather belts draw in the waistlines of oversized coats, while bulky leather shoulder bags complete the look.

• The rebellious look is carried forward using flowing hair, disheveled makeup & long pulled lines of kohl.

Show Report

Stella Jean

BEST OF

RTW MILAN FASHION WEEK A/W 2014-15

Emilio Pucci

Blown out silhouettes, knock out accessories, chivalry and romance, fairy tales and magical lands for some, this edition of Milan Fashion Week oozed inspiration and creativity. A perfect balance between designer’s paradise to a shopper’s dream display, it was days filled with glamour and fashion.

Hosting an array of popular and emerging designers it displayed assorted inspirations from minimalist moods to glittering embellishments and was a kaleidoscope of colours and designs. The Fashion Hub hosted numerous brands that supported Milano Moda Donna, each offering customized proposals. Another important event that marked the show was the “passion, creation, obsession’ a tribute to the emerging talents of the Istituto Marangoni with its very own space for display.

FUTURE DATES: A/W 2014-15 Edition 17 – 23 September, 2014

It was an iconic show for Milan with 64 fashion shows, 74 presentations for 73 brands, 8 presentations by appointment for 3 brands, for a total of 145 collections. With days of runway shows and presentations numerous famous names and an extended list of visitors participated through the events organized during the show. Milano Moda Donna showcases the work of hundreds of artisans and professionals giving them an opportunity to expand globally.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Dolce & Gabbana • The inspiration for the collection is a fairy tale theme and the collection revolves around motifs inspired from the famous Frances Hodgson Burnett novel, The Secret Garden.

• Jeweled flowers scramble up through the collection and keys become a chiffon print on fluttery high-waisted chiffon dresses.

• Set against a dreamy forest backdrop, an enchanting mix of medieval hoods, daytime dresses, floral embellishments & light and airy gowns are brought out alongside Woodland creatures such as owls, squirrels and foxes on swing coats.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

DSquareD2 • The mod 1960s silhouette which is uniquely sleek and fitted to the body with short hemlines hitting above the thigh dominate the collection.

Models are escorted by nurses in white capes and matching helmet hats.

• The other 60s styles including but not limited to swing coats, colourful trenches, shift dresses and colourblocking elements are brought out with the collection.

• Accessories also play up the collection’s theme, with bejeweled ankle, wrist cuffs and neck chokers to play with the hospital chic.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

emilio Pucci

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

emilio Pucci • Based on the concept ‘Call of the Wild’ the show is a double treat. While on the one hand, the best of the classic signature wear of Emilio Pucci is brought out with innovations in full splendour, on the other hand designer Paul Dundas marksthe show with style with his native sensibilities. The signature line brings out the immortal patterns and prints of the signature brand.

• Inspired from Paul’s native country Norway, the other segment of the show is utilised to showcase beautifully cut velvet trouser suits in wine red or bottle green colours. The Norwegian knitting sensibilities are used quite tastefully too.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Ermano ScErvino • Seeking inspiration from the nautical symbols and theme, the collection is well crafted.

• Sophisticated designs with functional purposes are laid out with a rather dark tone.

• Checks kick off the outing with a play on realistic extent yielding short pea coats and relaxed double-breasted coats. Moving on, parkas in hues of blue are visually cool and refined for a semi-trim fit.

• Male knitwear is contrasted against old fashioned houndstooth tailoring while clean crisp nautical stripes move on into characteristic pinstripes.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Etro • The collection flows in with a bright, colourful and paisley-heavy hue.

• Taking a traditional focus on tailoring to new heights, the collection celebrates by sending the tailors on the ramp alongside the models.

• There are a few colour blocked solids, check, floral prints and knits to balance out the swirling paisley offerings, most of which come in loose bohemian silhouettes • A sartorial wardrobe for the man of any age come in skinny-cut trousers, waistcoats, shawl blazers and other suiting essentials contributed to their effort.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

GiorGio armani • The inspiration of this collection is fade to gray; the collection is done in a mix of gray & black with pops of lime green.

• It is a classic Armani lineup filled with column dresses, slightly slouchy, above-the-ankle wide trousers, classic suits, silk jumpsuits and collarless coats. Structured top handle doctor bags, rectangular clutches in black, lime green or with a variety of surface embellishments are the highlights of the collection.

• Slouchy hobos in a variety of fabrics and textures, lace-up booties, two-toned sandals and pointed flats accessorize the show.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

JuSt cavalli • The inspiration is a modern take on Florentine Old Master paintings and architecture.

• Inspiration comes through factually via separates fashioned out of prints depicting the facade of the Santa Maria Novella church; others have the head of Michelangelo’s Aurora.

• Toned down clashing prints, less layering and silhouettes that aren’t unbearably tight make the garments very wearable this season.

• For accessories, there are strappy sandals, fringe suede booties and thigh-high boots while bags are finished with fringe and gold rivets.

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

robErto cavalli

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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

robErto cavalli • An eye to detail, the show and the collections bring out a rebellious flare. The show rolls out through a fusion of water and a circle of fire.

• The real fire makes way to the models, who stride out in silky black crystal-laden gowns with hemlines printed in flames.

• The other half of the show brings out garments with an abstract flavour, morphing into a red and orange tie-dye intarsia on black fuzzy mohair sweaters. A pair of salt ‘n pepper tweedy tailored trousers and a black, grey and ivory blanket shawl are the highlight of the collection.

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StElla JEan • A fusion of cultures and a hybrid of ‘geisha and mannish attitude’ is the primary influence of the collection.

• Bursting busy prints tossed with complicated shapes are highlights • The timeless appeal of the brand is maintained thoroughly along the full length of the collection by using huge, full length cardigans featuring peacocks or fish on the back, fabulous checked mohair coats, fine striped knits featuring cockerels.

• Lampshade-shaped skirts swinging in bold prints and belted under shapely sculpted jackets of contrasting prints above them complete the collection.

Show Report

Nina Ricci

BEST OF

RTW PARIS FASHION WEEK A/W 2014-15

FUTURE DATES: A/W 2013-14 Edition 23 September – 1 October 2014

Hermès

A refreshing collection of new and vivid silhouettes and patterns this edition of Paris Fashion week carried innovation and conceptualization with it.

The dresses, coats, fabrics and bags presented by some of the designers were very thoughtful and cohesive adding light to the runway. The stunning collections by designers with their fluid and divine designs were the highlights of the season. On the other hand others were inspired by the dark romance, black magic, haunting ground and the mysterious midnight giving diversity to the collections presented. An exaggeration of Parisian style, the whimsical and the avant-garde collections presented by Givenchy, Gareth Pugh, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Kenzo and many other established and upcoming names. Presenting a collection of the finest ready to wear the show attracted hundreds of visitors, buyers, designers and others from around the world.

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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

BALMAIN • The collection revolves around the colours black and white.

• The strong, warrior woman vibe is the focus this season. Curve-hugging silhouettes are paired with oversized army jackets that almost look like men’s sizes belted for emphasis on the waist.

• Some more streamlined looks like pleated leather-trimmed skirts with sheared fur tops stand out from the military look.

• Gold and black or orange leather cuffs and chokers, golden brocade stiletto booties, lots of gilt and gold cause riot on the ramp.

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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

DRIES VAN NOTEN • Influence of the 40s is spelt out in the collection that is majorly influenced by the woman.

• The ladylike silhouette of Autumn features a slightly roomy fit with belowthe-knee skirts flared at the bottom, as well as feminine blouses with sleeves that cut off at the elbows.

• Retro sunglasses, T-strap heels, leather gloves, booties and graphic fold-over envelope clutches are made use of to compliment the clothes. The models’ hair and makeup is retro instinctive with sideswept & wavy bobs along with a no make up look.

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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

ELIE SAAB • This collection has red carpet ready looks while the theme is ‘Dark Opulence’.

• The Saab woman dazzles not only with her sequin adorned evening wear, but also with her accessories.

Fine jewelry pieces featuring precious gems and handbags in rich jewel tones add a glamorous touch.

• Ballooning, loose, free-flowing silhouettes, cinched at the waist pieces, short and fitted dresses, long and slinky ones, embroidered, draped or lingerie-inspired - His lineup ranges the colour gamut to include black, white, red, rose and teal.

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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

Hermès • The collection is influenced from safari featured rainforest floral and leaf prints, long and lean belted silhouettes and roomy draping.

• Luxury takes on sportswear has been a trend that has traveled from New York to Paris and Hermes executes the same with this collection.

• The materials and craftsmanship at the house’s disposal make even croc skirts look supple, effortless and completely wearable.

• Other standouts included midi and high-waisted skirts with light pleating, silk print tops & the bags, which include small crossbody styles.

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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

KeNZO • The collection is quite remarkably based on the fish, adorned on many pieces—embroidered on jackets and dresses, patched together and tessellating on blouses.

• The creature’s look is totally retro but considering it in cool pastels, it transplants onto inventive silhouettes.

• Striping, driving-rain-inspired marks in black or other colours are also showcased. The brand’s nowubiquitous cheetah print is also present, but remains with a lighter pencil-like touch and in different colours, which make them almost abstract.

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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2014-15|RTW

LOUIs VUITTON • The bare bones décor maintain the minilaism of the collection.

• A-line dresses and coats, skirts with oversized prominently featured pockets and plenty of suede and leather. Also in the mix are croc skin zipped jackets, high-waist and very high-shine trousers and dresses that are mixed tweed and leather.

• Short boots with belted detailing and classic Louis Vuitton handbag silhouettes with new patterns and materials, a miniature version of an old-fashioned suitcase are welcomed on the ramp.

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NINA rICCI • The daywear range brings out knit turtleneck sweaters with fur jackets and above-the-knee skirts. Floral prints in the mix as well–pastel blooms adorn silk dresses, separates are significantly seen.

• The floral, garden like theme continues onto to the evening wear section where lace and tulip embellished gowns in asymmetrical hemlines bring a romantic touch. Tunics are shown with embellished skirts alongside outerwear & lingerie is referenced throughout. Duchesse satin, chiffon & diaphanous lace greatly enhance the simple, feminine collection.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

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Heimtextil Trends The 2014/15 trends are structured into two major categories - “Progress!” and “Revive!”. Each of which is subdivided into two themes: “Generate Collision!” and “Engineer Nature!”, and “Exalt Purity!” and “Rejuvenate Craft!”, respectively - dealing in detail with the exploration of progress and renewal of textiles in interior design. “PROGRESS!/REVIVE!“ - overview of the four new themes…

Progress!

Look forward | A brave new world in which science and technology are the driving forces behind innovation across the design industry.

Generate Collision!

Harness technology to generate uniqueness

Esbat Stitches No. 8 by Vaka Valo • Computer algorithms and similar technologies facilitate the mass production of customised items because, for example, panels of fabric can be printed digitally without the design having to be repeated.

Year of the glitch by Phillip Stearns • Similarly, playful printing and marking techniques KL30 by Yago Hortal enable uncontrolled artistic expression. Colours are swiped over or drawn, dabbed or splattered • Emerging materials and technologies allow replicable unique and on surfaces. Designers experiment with ways to personalised results. allow production processes to determine the • To accommodate the demand for unique, individualised products, look and texture of the final product. designers increasingly experiment with novel materials and technologies.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Engineer Nature!

Synthesise the natural world for a sustainable future

Nurture Studies by Diana Scherer • This innovative approximation of biology to materiality goes hand in hand with new responsibilities; designers also are beginning to rethink the consequences of modifying their former lifestyles.

Botanical Layers by SNDCT and Masha Reva • Where the design sector turns biology into a new medium for creativity, scientists leverage the complexity of living systems using technical processes.

Black Strawberry Lace by Carole Collet • The convergence of science and the natural world uncovers progressive synthetic solutions for a more sustainable future.

• New textile techniques intertwine living systems with and biological and texture technologies copied from nature to form novel fabrics. Designers technicise nature by growing their own materials and copying nature’s processes.

Paradies by Stills & Strokes in collaboration with Cosima Walther • We are experiencing a design trend that explores the concept of creating natural works using artificial means and which allows itself to be inspired by the interaction of science and design.

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Revive!

Look back | In the pursuit of more meaningful and authentic experiences we appreciate the importance of learning from the past, rediscovering and reviving the value in tradition.

Exalt Purity!

Strip back to reveal purity and integrity

Disquiet Luxurians by Emilie F. Grenier • The results are primitive yet modern aesthetics. Wild and coarse nature with its unadulterated colours, textures and shapes acts as the generator of ideas. In this way, designers focus on the humble, the pure, the unadorned.

Atlas by Amba Molly Craftica by Formafantasma for Fendi • Pristine, untreated materials are used, and resource-saving production processes and the longevity of products define the main • In search of a sense of spirituality natural materials are celebrated in their purist form. criteria.

As a response to mass production, the interest in objects that have personalities and • Animism, essentialism, minimalism and are accompanied by stories is increasing. reductionism prove to be the decisive • In the quest for meaning, this movement honours natural materials by embracing trends. their imperfections and highlighting their origins deliberately.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Rejuvenate Craft Revisit tradition to enhance authenticity

The Dhurrie Chair by Pål Rodenius • Uniformity is replaced by the collage look to stage the unexpected and evoke alluring visual tension.

Three Thonets by Soojin Kang Collection by Stephanie Wong, photography by Sean Michael • Using the language of traditional craft techniques such as embroidery, weaving or • Reviving and renewing traditional craft techniques to enhance narrative and knitting, designers tell stories about their lives. meaning to objects.

The revival of craftsmanship gives rise to a • Designers work with recycled materials, conjuring up the concept of an wealth of textures. improvised lifestyle as a counterpoint to our technology-dominated society.

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Maison&Objet An invitation to distant inner journeys. A desire to get away and a wish for openness to the world are animating design and the art of living. Travelling coolness is looking for new lands, unseen vistas, far-off spots where adventure and wonder are at hand.

Globetrotters and nomads, amblers and bushwhackers are heading out to discover the Other and sketching the shifting cartography of a mobile, fluid, cosmopolitan and more human world. Guaranteed disorientation.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Landscape, Elizabeth Leriche Elsewhere in Nature The soothing contemplation of landscapes feeds our gaze and our mind. A quest for getaways, for higher ground is opening the doors of creativity. We are transcribing the reverie of a poetic, sensitive nature. Between the force of material things and evanescent lightness, between immenseness and microcosms, a physical and spiritual escape is teleporting our imaginations toward new horizons. Travel logs in lands of feeling.

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Heliotropic, Franรงois Bernard Elsewhere under the Sun A solar art of living is wandering through enclaves that are festive or quiet, transgressive or meditative, in an often somber time. Hotly blazing suns are like the metal of a blade taken from the embers.

Midnight suns, white nights, cold suns gleaming like mercury. The heavenly body that is the sun is irradiating creation. It is divine, artsy, sexy, sometimes kitschy and eccentric, luxurious and joyful.

Irresistibly hot.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Beyond, Vincent GrĂŠgoire pour Nelly rodi Elsewhere in abysses and space Immediate boarding for the most final distant lands. At the edges of space or in oceanic depths, we are diving into the unknown. A contemporary cabinet of curiosities is bringing together sea-punks and mermaids in mid- water, robots and astronauts searching for new frontiers. The infinitely far is opening up new vistas for creation. A bizarre beauty, strange and mysterious, stellar and astonishing.

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Munich Fabric Start A CAVORTING FREE HEDONISM IS GLIDING ATHLETICALLY ELEGANT OVER THE TREND THEMES WITH A LOT OF TRANSPARENCE AND CLARITY...

Our season`s title HAUTE SPORTURE links perfection with high-end materials, technical qualities with clear cuts, high tailoring skills with sport, naturalness in it’s purest kind and the creative search for new forms and proportions - always with a hint of nonchalance.

Without disclaiming the still rich and fantasy filled textile abundance, the joy of mixing is reduced for the first time. Five themes map the trend scenario “HAUTE SPORTURE” - for women’s and men’s wear and one for jeanswear. Detailed information including visuals and trend colours plus relevant Pantone numbers.

With HAUTE SPORTURE“ the new season is manifesting in an impressive mix of elegance and nonchalance. High-tech textiles meet clear styles; the high art of couture meets sporty influences. The creative search for new silhouettes and proportions shows up repeatedly, always with touch of casualness. And a sort of harmless hedonism accompanies all trends, implemented with a sporty elegance - transparent and clear.

Next to selected contrast colours, the colour palette features undercover highlights, from pale pastels, soft beiges and shades of white to true transparents. The combination of reflective to matt and super-soft to grainy is particularly effective combined with this uncoloured tranquillity. Earthy basics shine with a modern brilliance.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

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Techno Poetry Cool, elegant and sporty, internally loaded with strong energy, TECHNO POETRY takes the stage in the form of unimposing romantic and restrained technical fashions. With uni-looks in new wide forms and different layers, tranparency plays – in textile and style – the key role. Cuts are extremely simple yet rich via the use of playful materials or their tonal mixes. Slim, minimalist 90’s chic pairs with comfort and the oversize volumes of the 80’s.

Relaxed Temptation Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Mood/Look/Lifestyle In ENERGETIC SILENCE, the auras of modern gurus Ă la Chade-Meng Tan or Steve Jobs waft their positive sprits into these robes. The simplicity and ease of the theme brings something a little religious. Respect towards oneself, to keep spirit, body and soul in balance - this is at the centre of global thinking for fairness and ecological products.

Energetic Silence

Material, surface & form direction

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Techno Poetry Colours + Fabrics Neon white, ecru and mother of pearl radiate a meditative calm. Like clear, fresh morning light, delicate, heavenly cool pastels appear in powdery make-up, pink and carnation tones. Like flashes of inspiration, summery steel nuances like copper and silver reflect out of the colour chart as they shimmer in chrome finishes or fine lame yarns. Light bamboo tones in green and beige, whether natural matte or in specifically glazed low-tech gloss, warm up the cool colour mood. In little doses, black brings depth and contrast and makes statements via clear graphics. Singular black and white looks take away the ensemble’s softness. The very understated RELAXED TEMPTATION seduces with the help of small patterns,

Relaxed Temptation Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

light degradés, simple mélange unis and soft 3-D nets. Hybrids are interesting with a natural appearance and high-tech stability. Irregular yarns get mixed with very fine synthetic yarns resulting in a natural appearance with technological grip. Iridescent hologram yarns sparkle out of uni-coloured Chanel fabrics and elegant shell glosses give small floral patterns a special finish. Tonal 3-D jacquards, waffle piqués and three-dimensional fabrics are the constructive masterpieces of the season.

Static fabrics contrast with floating materials. Textures are airy and simply constructed. The technical sparkle of lurex threads and fine, natural gloss contrast with grainy, matte nets, piqués and jerseys.

Energetic Silence

Material, surface & form direction

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Sun Loaded SUN LOADED mirrors the heat, fun in the city and at the beach, and the acute joie de vivre in the here and now. Art, ocean and city merge into a perfect summer mix. California, with Los Angeles and San Francisco, or Australia, with Melbourne and the Gold Coast, send their greetings.

Loaded with lots of sun, sometimes too much, the hot rays beam down unbelievably positive energy.

Pacific Spring Break Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Mood/Look/Lifestyle This power unloads in a big lively art space, Art Basel Miami Beach-style. Urban sportswear with floral material design combinations, t-shirts with art poster-style graphics, large-scale prints with big brush motives and creatively mixed espadrille sneakers add to the program.

Pop Art Store

Material, surface & form direction

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Sun Loaded Colours + Fabrics Artificial chemical colours of all sorts impress with their clarity. Tonal, summery suits in clean, bright tonic tones, whether with bermuda or high-cuffed pants, are still the non plus ultra for the guys.

Neoprenes, polyester-nets, technical jerseys, and swimsuit fabrics are used for all sorts of highly feminine clothes. Plastic fascinates for accessories. Coloured, transparent rubber foils - such as transparent air mattresses, rubber-like surfaces, and a lot of poly materials - give the right look.

Pacific Spring Break Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Material collages à la Robert Rauschenberg are combined with (sur)realistic prints in crude tones -in 3-D or blurry. Hawaii shirts in Honolulu print delirium or abstracted palm tree motives are mixed with gaudy small patterns, fringes and colour-blockings. Technical fabrics reach from transparent, rubber-like surfaces to swimsuit and plastic looks. Patterns - whether in large-scale Pop Art style, small and gaudy or progressive Hawaii and palm tree looks - shouldn’t be missed.

Pop Art Store

Material, surface & form direction

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Exotic Matters It’s the singular influences from the faraway tropics that define for EXOTIC MATTERS the luxuriousness of unknown places and their nevertheless familiar motives. We follow the traces from Osaka to Delhi, via Istanbul and Marrakesh, all the way into the depths of the jungle.

Tropical Shadow Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Mood/Look/Lifestyle A Southeastern climate spreads out in SPLENDID HEAT with deeply symbolic purple, red and blue.

Coated in the feeling of this warmth, elements like kimono cuts, jodhpur pants and sari clothes are naturally brought into the collections. The right doses of these patterns, cuts and decorations give this theme just the right Western touch.

Splendid Heat

Material, surface & form direction

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Exotic Matters Colours + Fabrics Glossy black, matte gold and sparkling copper radiate a classy karma and calmness. A connection to Nature is revealed by tee and khaki tones. An exotic, natural colour resplendence glows in mango, dragon fruit, cinnamon, and indigo colours. A European elegance results when super chic, classy fabrics meet with the original garments of India, Japan and Morocco to become looks with sporty cuts. A dose of opulence is assured by monochrome patterned brocade. As contrast, we are seduced by floating transparent material in silk, rayon, acetate and cupro. Darker, less intense flower and plant prints play in TROPICAL SHADOW with overlaying, double motives and macro-effect. Anacondas, boas, caimans, tigers

Tropical Shadow Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

and leopards continue to inspire textile diversity to be invented anew, abstracted and built into graphic motives. Monkeys have the potential to become the alpha-animals of prints. Through overdyeing or tonal, dark woven fabrics fashionable men get a taste for large-scale patterns. Small motives in jacquards or prints inspire the market for lightweight shirts, blazers and summer pants. Japanese comics, modern mandalas, old travel postcards and landscape gradations form the visual climax of exotic motives.

Unicoloured degradĂŠ jacuards and tonal printed linen offer perfect patterns that enrich this theme in a restrained, fashion-forward way. Floral prints in layer-mixes look exotic and summery. Transparence and lace emphasize the sensual.

Splendid Heat

Material, surface & form direction

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Fluxional FLUXIONAL – Flowing, everything on the move. A theme based on water and its potential: floating, cool, lively. The sea holds unbelievable possibilities for progress and solutions for the future. High-tech and ecology have here a natural, obvious unity. Research on oceanic current energy offers new approaches, like botanical food and fibre production. In biomimetic systems, for example, the physical composition of fish scales or selfcleaning water plants is imitated. This aquatic abundance can be found in applications with

Aqantis

Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Mood/Look/Lifestyle algae and plankton essences in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Applications for textile production are Speedo´s Fastskin® or the antibacterial film of Sharklet Safetouch™, both inspired by sharkskin. Sporty, active, elegant and chic are the fashionable attributes of these silhouettes. Fresh looks with wide shoulders, oversize-forms, sporty capes, recall stingray cuts. Outfits are cut and styled with exactness through floating lines.

Waterize

Material, surface & form direction

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Fluxional Colours + Fabrics Aquatic tones from light to intensive to deep blue. Cool greens, deep sea teal and purple as well as radiant, jellyfish white let us dive into a breath-taking underwater world. Modern, technical surfaces are the crucial feature of WATERIZE’s materials. Whether plant-like feel with water repellent lotus-effect, leather finish in matte, shimmering sharkskin or fish-look in reflecting changeant. A special role is played by diving materials: watercolour-like printed nets, double-face neoprenes, all-over perforation and upholstery fabrics. Flowing fabrics are combined with technical and shimmering fabrics, transparency with foil and wet looks. Dice and

Aqantis

Young & print Direction

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

grid pattern embossing on leather or polyester produces 3-D reliefs. An abundance of camouflage prints derived from fish, anenomies and coral is mixed into the AQUANTIS wave motive. Diving equipment serves as inspiration for ingredients made of mossy synthetic materials and neoprenes. Like the water’s surface, shiny materials, bi-coloured distance nets, transparent nylons and shimmering, floating tulle encase with an elegant sportiness. Double dyes and panamas are fresh, masculine textures. Prints blend, watercolour style.

Waterize

Material, surface & form direction

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Homies & Nerds HOMIES & NERDS – Two types with different philosophies of life meet and mingle. A play of contrasts forms a fashionable and trendy interplay for denims and flats. Originating with the as always extremely important tight jeans, dissimilar looks evolve more and more all the way to „pleated jeans“. A wide, trashy, baggy denim look contrasts with the accurate slim look. Repaired patch, bleaching, coded statements, laser motives, chic biker styles and lots of stretch all belong to the wide-ranging repertoire. Light to dark blue tones, neutral steel colours, reflective metallic tones and soft nudes give Homies and Nerds a final touch.

Blue Zone

Spring Sumer 2015

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Mood/Look/Lifestyle The Nerds – Ex-outsiders and loners, once unattractive and booed – now stands for personality, character and attention to detail. Everything a modern jeans needs. The DENIM NERD and his look are finicky, correct and accurate. Distinguished by a modern style, chic and elegance are combined with a simple rawness. His dress is defined by a clear appearance, which finds expression in the use of soft colours, very faded fabrics and raw denim. The look is reinforced by tight, slim cuts and clean biker styles.

Blue Zone

Spring Sumer 2015

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Homies & Nerds Colours + Fabrics The Homies – Ex-outsiders, once ignored and labelled as criminals – now symbolize effortlessness, coolness and statement. Everything that represents a cool jeans. Both the Indigo Homies and their styles are comfortable, provocative and constant. One of these un-rebellious gangs consists of INDIGO HOMIES who share a fondness for indigo jeans and make it the key symbol of their group. Combined with a hip hopinspired style with its large, comfortable shapes, you get the ultimate look that defines an INDIGO HOMIE.

Blue Zone

Spring Sumer 2015

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

There’s no halfway: Either you`re in(digo) or you`re out. We bring the two “new hipsters“ - the NERDS + HOMIES – together. They like each other, so they mix styles and attitudes. But they also love their own look! Like the water’s surface, shiny materials, bi-coloured distance nets, transparent nylons and shimmering, floating tulle encase with an elegant sportiness. Double dyes and panamas are fresh, masculine textures. Prints blend, watercolour style.

Blue Zone

Spring Sumer 2015

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Illusion A false material or moral appearance that, by making us see things differently to how they are, seems to play with our senses.

The season plays with mise en abyme and lines up a succession of “This is not...!”

Trompe l’oeil and collective hallucinations make our heads spin. Creation takes inspiration from the unreal and the strange, but disguises it with normality to better mislead the universe and allow the unexpected to surge forth. We try to escape from a world of sterile automatisms, in search of strangeness. From the smooth surfaces and silhouettes showcased by the design and fashion of the moment will emerge intriguing anomalies, imperceptible at first glance.

Colours

Summer 15 sees colours become calmer, mellow and more sophisticated. A white haze softens pastels, which take on an ethereal air, sky-blue and green become celadon, violet is greyer and yellow is tender.

Beige and sandy colours are elegant whilst white is pearlised and lightens pale grey. The neutrals, Kraft and taupe, are given a rough ride by blotting paper pink and bamboo green. Summer darks are lightened by floral purples and ochre yellow, whilst greens are deep and changing. Aqua blues, from ink to zephyr, are indispensable.

The Essentials

Yellows, from chick to sunflower Blues, from bleached sky to the abyss Purples, from grey violet to cardinal And lastly White and off-white, to be used without moderation.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Sentimentalist Illusion Facetious gnomes cast a spell on innocent and sweet lovers.

Evanescent silhouettes become literally ghostlike. Characters go by pairs, hand-in-hand. Is this to get through the looking-glass quicker?

Prettily elegant. Colours are acidic; bleached mandarin, ruffled chick, celadon blue, mint green - but a greymauve upsets the balance.

Colour Palette Lezard D’eau - 557 C - 15-6120 Tpx

Campanule - 5215 C - 16-1707 Tpx

Poussin - 113 C - 12-0738 Tpx

Libellule - 630 C - 14-4814 Tpx

Kumquat - 1375 C - 14-1050 Tpx

Idealistic Illusion The marketing of new minimalism oversells rigour. Under pressure and looking for balance, we feed on neoclassical references. But the uncluttered and the quest for the Golden Section are undermined by an irrepressible urge for imperfection, a leaning towards the distortion of lines and volumes. Perspectives are skewed and games with mirrors increase the impression of unreality.

Decoloration. Colours are modified by the air and the reflections of the sky and water. Ethereal colours of clouds and shores bleached by the dawn light.

Colour Palette Albinos - 7528 C - 13-0403 Tpx

Opaline - 537 C - 14-4110 Tpx

Marbre - 422 C - 15-4306 Tpx Rose Des Sables - 4685 C - 14-1113 Tpx Pierre De Lune - Cool Gray 1 C - 12-4302 Tpx

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Technical Illusion We have fun with technology, a pretext for derision. Machines pile up and become wallpaper stuck on the walls of houses. Our life is a «Work in Progress», a major installation that is never completed.

Colours are mechanical and limited; iron grey, scraped rust, Bakelite yellow, burgundy Formica.

Colour Palette Bakelite- 728 C - 15-1231 Tpx

Limaille - 446 C - 18-0503 Tpx

Formica - 5195 C - 18-1411 Tpx

Libellule - 630 C - 14-4814 Tpx

Classeur - Black 7 C - 19-0000 Tpx

Craft and Green Illusion Nature and waste as the pivots of contemporary art. Between futurism and nostalgia, artists seem to want to bind together the past and the present. They create giant, organic sculptures with the tree as their symbol.

The palette is almost colour-free. The obvious neutrals are softened by a blotting-paper pink, enlivened by an intellectual green.

Colour Palette Lezard D’eau - 557 C - 15-6120 Tpx

Campanule - 5215 C - 16-1707 Tpx Poussin - 113 C - 12-0738 Tpx

Libellule - 630 C - 14-4814 Tpx

Kumquat - 1375 C - 14-1050 Tpx

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Psychedelic Illusion Meditation goes further east and tends towards well-being. An hypnotic and dreamlike ritual is imposed whilst awaiting the revelation. Exuberant flowers create a bad spirit, are prey to hallucinations; they tend to be venimous even deadly.

Saturation. The ultra-pigmentary palette is a jumble, dull and worrying. Dark purples rub shoulders with burnt red and fiery orange.

Colour Palette Rafflesia - 504 C - 19-1522 Tpx

Passiflore - 2587 C - 18-3633 Tpx Oseau Du Paradis - 7414 C 16-1443 Tpx Baobab - 426 C - 19-4203 Tpx

Bat Orchid - 669 C - 19-3720 Tpx Cameleon - Black 6 C/5467 C 19-4305 Tpx/19-5406 Tpx

Aquatic Illusion Underwater, a mysterious world is in motion. Mythical creatures, submerged islands, underwater cities, seaweed and hair tangled with endangered coral. Fossilised treasure, forgotten by wreckers.

Sediments of civilisations; a quixotic and worrying universe.

Shades. Abyssal blue becomes watery to the extent of transparency.

Turquoise is covered with white. Yellow oxidises and takes on an acid green hue.

Colour Palette Esturgeon - 623 C - 14-5706 Tpx Exocet- 10282 C - 16-4725 Tpx/12-5508 Tpx Abysses - 533 C - 19-3925 Tpx Pomacanthus - 7476 C 18-4522 Tpx Parambassis - Transparent Centropyge - 585 C - 13-0632 Tpx

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Mash up With the feeling that the next step would be decisive, we returned to our origins, dissected our past, mixed our cultures, questioned what is innate and analyzed what is acquired, we let the body express itself, restrained passions and channeled thoughts. At the end of this search, the elementary particles dance before our eyes. The origin, prior to the first assimilation, before the trace of existence. The first clay of humanity. The foundations, healthy and neutral, of our future.

The general question has found an infinitisimal answer.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

The future is positioned in the cohabitation of the basic elements, for fear of reentering the hazardous cycle of the amalgams. Fusion and confusion. Miscibility is no longer a utopian idea, but a risk. An inescapable, but postponed risk. The present demands time to observe. With the parts of the future before our eyes, we are still determining their intention. Beauty is lodged in this original aggregate. We are one second away from the new expansion.

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Ordinary Creature

The shift occurred imperceptibly. The values changed sex, preferring the female nourishing force to the phallic destructive power. The roles were blurred. For as long as an androgynous respiration. A border of the kinds gone fuzzy before reaffirming itself all the better. The attributes redistribute themselves, tuned to nature. Bestial pilosity is affirmed on the faces. Silky undulations, echoing the infinite female curves. Primal fleece of a virility returned to its roots.

The newly defined roles leave the bodies at rest with a paradisiacal expression. The simplicity of the characters gives way to the richness of the story.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

14-4206 TCX

19-4535 TCX

19-1338 TCX

Elements & Atmosphere Intimate Advance Abandoning Identity Introspective Labyrinth Natural Genesis

Animal Personality Gregarious Assertion Iconic Repositioning Indolent Nature

Vanishing Materiality Assumed Species

18-1434 TCX

12-1206 TCX

14-0627 TCX

Materials Aspects Brutal origin - Mixing opposite - Subtle imitation - From Nature - Imperceptible down - Thick fleece - BeautĂŠ spot - Vital scar - Intense weaving - Smooth surfaces - Slight undulations - Lacquered - Hairy, bearded - Epidermal - Childish innocence - Gender neutrality - Veil blurred - Alabaster skin - Armor spirit - Quilted - Fibers long & soft - Raw and exalted - Affirmed purity - Animal origin - Hair imitation - Traditional know-how - Ancestral technology - Natural imperfections - Dyed in the mass

12-0105 TCX

19-3803 TCX

19-4005 TCX

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Inexpressible Border

Less synthetic, more authentic. Imitating nature was not enough. The thirst for the origins is not quenched.

Understand and dissect, still and always. All the way to the frame of the elements. A fission of the material to weave the invisible, essence of what is concrete. Like a divine inspiration giving life to complexity, matter is born from original vital energy. The ancestral, discrete and essential vibration becomes the architecture of our future. The borders of the invisible are drawn up and the universes are born. The universal identity of our mutual particles becomes the thread of our creations to be followed.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

11-0103 TCX

15-1905 TCX

Elements & Atmosphere Structural Impression Confused Assembly Imperceptible Alloy Inexpressible Frame

Infinitesimal Limit Stellar Vacuum Luminous Fusion Sparkling Radiation

Delicate Prospect Minimalist Hyper Simplification

Materials Aspects Perceptible veil - Precise lines - Confused surface - Colorful geometry - Cottony reflections - Inverted images - Translucent tone - Precise cutouts - The empty and the full - Natural trompe l’oeil - Minimal surrealism - Kaleidoscope - Air mesh - Iridescent - Printed transparency - Knitting lids - Frothy flocking - Light emanation - Irregular expansion Fibers Affirmed technology - Fine and imperceptible - Intelligent design - Bright - Ultra resistant - Conductive - Sensitive and nervous - Tubular nesting - Overlay Winding cast

19-1102 TCX

17-4432 TCX

14-0846 TCX

15-4707 TCX

17-1635 TCX

14-1508 TCX

17-2127 TCX

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Aseptic Flowering

Our time lacked a future, we plunged into our roots. First, carriers of our fears and our desires, we embraced the creative myths. Then, coldly, we reached the absolute zero of physics. A pragmatic search, leaving imagination and desires in silence. A horizon of events beyond which the race becomes impossible and marking our new departure.

With this human virginity, the temporal cycle starts up again and existence ceases its completed introspection in order to turn itself towards a new purified growth. The human being is more than its mere components, but this plus point has become too threatening. The selfish Eros and utopian Agape followed one another, failed and henceforth leave room to analytical Philia.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

12-0311 TCX

18-0121 TCX

Elements & Atmosphere Structural Impression Confused Assembly Imperceptible Alloy Inexpressible Frame

Infinitesimal Limit Stellar Vacuum Luminous Fusion Sparkling Radiation

Delicate Prospect Minimalist Hyper Simplification

Materials Aspects Frozen organic - Natural forms - Colorful effusion - Alive trompe l’oeil - Scale games - Printed enamel - Cell weaving - Carboned - Scientific experimentation - Sharp sweetness - Macroscopic - Pigmented amalgams - Inclusions - Vegetal membrane - Mastered composition - Growth support - Still life - Bristly - Fibers Enhanced natural - Experimental synthetic - Technologic fluorescence - Benevolent associations - Agglomerated - Surrounded by membrane - Assumed complexity - Plant spontaneity Animal Shell - Futurist keratin

14-0232 TCX

13- 0550 TCX

14-0156 TCX

17-1462 TCX

18-1634 TCX

19-2520 TCX

19-3903 TCX

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Singular Ubiquity

Globalization is a fact. Interconnected and interdependent, our consciences have been internationalized. Considered a solution for a long time, globalization slips from its Utopia to join an indestructible reality. The scales are reduced and proximity shouts its desire for a future. The dream of a fusion of humanity dies. From its ashes arises the coexistence born from the intelligence of a joint future. The elementary particles of humanity, simultaneously interchangeable and unique, are rendering themselves autonomous. A separation of the beings, without borders. An acceptance, without rejection nor integration. The full awareness of planetary cohabitation has just begun.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

17-1663 TCX

19-1663 TCX

Elements & Atmosphere New Appropriation Cultural Revalorization Total Relocalization Sustainable

Knowledge Knotty Interdependence Coded Integration

Motionless Migration Embracing Stories Fantasized Diversity Digital Civilization

Materials Aspects Cultural Patchwork - Dissonant assembly - Hazardous meeting - Urban ethnicity - Recycling - Spherical cohesion - Mixed filaments - Fringed designs Knotting oversized - Artistic braiding - Shades - Materialized solidarity - Simplified icons - Diverted codes - Accurate ribs - Organic disturbances - Popular stories - Controlled geolocation - Distinct origins - Identity symbols - Ethnic mix Fibers Recycled - Amalgamated - On separate origins - Raw and craft - Multicultural colors - History - Natural purpose - Precious and protective - Instinctive arrangements - Sheathed - Ultra resistant

19-1762 TCX

13-1404 TCX

16-0000 TCX

12-0806 TCX

12-0752 TCX

13-0907 TCX

19-3803 TCX

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Denim Linear Symbiosis

Purple Experimentation –26–

Colored Intersections Knitting Inclusions Eroded Overlays Agglomerated Fringes Imperfect Lines Marked Creases Precise Cutouts Apparent Structure Geometric Architecture Limestone Whitening Contrast Touch Mineral Softness

Olympian Shore –15–

Deep Essence –02–

Carnal Case –17–

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Accessories Spherical Stacking

Blown Lightweight Crystalline Transparency Multi Faceted Primary Assembly Precious Minerality Delicate Stone Smoked Transparency Liquefied Shine Careful Accumulation Contrasting Colors Games Of Light Unlikely Position Nested Elements Precise Edges

Collective Energy –34–

Malted Dawn –06–

Intangible Aurora –11–

Diaphanous Stare –01–

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Day for Night Through the use of a filter, the Day for Night makes it possible to create an artificial night in daytime. Filtered transparencies and graphic double exposures, decors and true-false materials, overexposure and Instagram filters, backlighting and the fading-out of colours materialise and dematerialise textures. The scenario of the Spring Summer 15 season displays our desire for trimmings against a blank canvas.

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

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Day for Night The transparency of appearances Experiment with light Colour filters Double Exposure Superposing Tonal images Reflectiveness

Polarisations Diffractions Visual effects Cinematic Immateriality

Chromatic travelling Double exposure and transparency of colours, the gradual transition from one colour to another, polarisations, interferential sublimations and the softness of filtered shades materialise and dematerialise a palette bathed in light.

Backlighting Transparencies and double exposure Two-tone sublimation Tonal shading Chromatic interactions Graphic interferences Digital luminosity

The argentics Metallic effects and reflections Kinetic pleats Reflective white gold Dichroic filters Interferential colours Lenticular impressions

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Special effects Cinematic and digital polychromy Polarised diffractions Effects of perspective Chromatic blurring Pixellated shading Technical honeycomb

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Delirio paradise Tropical exuberance Mambo fantasia Dreamlike jungle Hypnotic exoticism Reptilian facsimile Hybrid fl owers Artifi cial nature

Surreal flocking Enchanting fractals Digital mimetisms Tribal luxuriance Arty hyper-realism

Technicolor motion Hyperpigmented colours, Technicolor artifi ciality, saturated, intoxicating tones and iridescent moirages combine in a fl amboyant and exuberant polychromy.

Fashion collages Hypnotic and tribal Pearly sublimations Anodized chain mail Oversize crystals Ethnic weaving Intoxicating golds

Crazy fauna Mimetism and polychromy Silky iridescence Reptilian scales Richly-coloured feathers Chameleon colours Summer furs

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Jungle fever Luxuriance and arborescence Stylised palm trees Saturated colours Hybrid flowers Tropical fractals Hypnotic pleats

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Plein soleil Regard sur le style bleu Riviera/A look at the Blue Riviera style Nouvelle vague Sun-drenched lightness Filtered dusk Vintage design Whitewash Local crafts

Natural materials Beautiful gesture Simple shapes Subtle shading Ethereal transparencies

Overexposed pastels Insolated, ultramatt brights, intense tropical shades and overexposed pastels are an invitation to gentle indolence.

Light is fi ltered, shadows are coloured. Textures are white-washed, enamelled or waxed.

Manufactura Irregularities and finesse Marl summer tweed Towelling Softened stones Braided rags Watercoloured stripes

Vintage geometry Graphic effects and micro patterns.

Lamellated wood Vintage mosaics Printed enamels Micro guipure Tonal patterns

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

Filtered transparencies Wash drawings and colour halos Vaporised colours Monochrome shading Graphic filigrees Diluted tie-dye Ethereal nets

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Bag & Shoe Printemps - ÉtÊ 2015 / Spring - Summer 2015 Immediate departure The art of travel City guides and virtual travel agencies, world design and lifestyles from all horizons lead us to discover new worlds.

Shoes, bags, luggage, belts and small leathergoods adopt a high-tech e-traveller style and Trans-African tribal nomadic elegance. Between practicality and it-fashion, from ultra-light to ethnic sophistication, the ready-to-wear trimmings collections display an art of travel between ubiquity and time stood still..

Whitewash

Faded blue

Sandy beige

Trimmings Insolated yellow

Argentic grey

Paradise blue

Shockproof polycarbonates Ultra-light hybrid canvas High-tech buckles Removable shoulder straps Reinforced epaulettes Anodised aluminium Double knit zips Waterproof tarpaulin

Printed micro-jacquards Pasted tweed grosgrain Monogrammed lining Patent leather trim Rubbery coatings Micro-perforations Multipocket fasteners

Fashion Trends & Forecasts | S/S 2015|RTW

E-traveller First class premium Airline Fashion Inspirations From the glamour of the air hostesses’ uniform to the tailored elegance of stewards, fashion and design invite themselves into first class.

Fantasia brown

Flamboyant fawn

Quarry tile red

Gradient orange

Instagram sepia

Celluloid green

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September September9.10.11, 9.10.11,2014 2014 portello portello fieramilanocity fieramilanocity

FALL/FAWLLIN/TE WRINTER 201520 -1615-16

FALL/FAWLLIN/TE WRINTER 201520 -1615-16

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