WFM 37 Paris/New York Fall2011

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Chanel

CONTENTS MODE À PARIS 04

agnès b.

06

Alexander McQueen

08

Balenciaga

10

Celine

12

Chanel

14

Chloé

16

Christophe Guillarme

18

Comme des Garçons

20

Costume National

22

Dior

24

Dries Van Noten

26

Emanuel Ungaro

28

Guy Laroche

30

Jean Paul Gaultier

32

John Galliano

34

Kenzo

36

Lanvin

38

Loewe

40

Louis Vuitton

42

Miu Miu

44

Nina Ricci

46

Paul & Joe

48

Rick Owens

50

Shiatzy Chen

52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 69 70

Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Talbot Runhof Valentino Viktor and Rolf Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent AF Vandervorst Andrea Crews Ann Demeulemeester

71

Barbara Bui

72

Cacharel

73

Damir Doma

74 75 76 77 78 79

Gaspard Yurkievich Givenchy Hermes Isabel Marant Issey Miyake Junya Watanabe

80

Rochas

81

Tsumori Chisato

82

Undercover

83

Zac Posen

NEW YORK 84

Alexander Wang

86

Anna Sui

88

BCBG

90

Betsey Johnson

92

Calvin Klein

94

Carlos Miele

96

Carolina Herrera

98

Cynthia Rowley

100

Derek Lam

102

Diesel

104

DKNY

106

Donna Karan

108

Diane von Furstenberg

110

Jason Wu

112

Jenny Packham

114

Marc by Marc Jacobs

116

Marc Jacobs

118

Ralph Lauren

120

Oscar De La Renta

122

Peter Som

124

Philip Lim

126

Ports1961

128

Tommy Hilfiger

130

Vera Wang

132

Vivienne Tam

134

Y3

136

Alexandre Herchcovitch

137

Jeremy Scott

138

Karen Walker

139

Michael Kors

140

Nanette Lepore

141

ThreeASFOUR

142

Victoria Beckham

143

Zang Toi

HONG KONG 144

Mademoiselle

146

Ika Butoni

148

Guts Dynamite Cabarets

149

Lucy Shih

150

Qinyi

151

SOUCH

152

International Fashion Designer

156

HKFDA – Parada Show Fall 2011

Fashion from the runway

Fall 2011-12


FA L L

Paris 2011

agnès b. For the coming season, agnès b went on a nostalgic trip, creating an easy-to-wear collection punctuated by Revolutionary references. Ruffled bodices were paired with long skirts and laced boots. Muffs accompanied velvet jackets. French ribbons fluttered from bonnets and tricorne hats, and medals adorned vests and denim jackets. Beyond the Revolution, tops and short, split skirts simmered in deep turquoise and cerise pink. agnès b. Agnès b在新一季展開懷舊之旅,創造出一個以革命元素為特點、易於穿著的系列。褶邊緊身衣與長裙及花 邊靴子搭配起來。手籠則與天鵝絨外套相襯。無邊帽及三角帽上飄舞著法國彩帶,而背心及牛仔布夾克則 以勳章加以裝飾。除了革命元素外,深綠色及櫻桃紅色的上衣、短褲及開叉裙亦非常吸引。

4


5


Alexander McQueen With visions of an ice queen, Sarah Burton created a collection of beautifully-sculpted pieces brought to the brink of fantasia. Fitted, zippered dresses were edged with lavish wraps of fur. Restrained images were wrought by solid chokers, belted bodices and dramatic, armour-inspired fabrics. Rippling, white coats were winched-in with corset belts and fabulous, mosaic, strapless gowns fell into trains of feathery ruffles. Alexander McQueen Sarah Burton 從冰雪女王的視覺出發,創造出造型精美、近乎幻想的系列。貼身的拉鍊連衣裙邊緣包著華 麗毛皮。硬身寬領呔、扣帶緊身衣以及富有戲劇性的仿盔甲面料都營造出克制的感覺。飄逸的白色外套受 到束腹帶的限制,而精彩的馬賽克式露肩禮服則以羽狀皺褶裝點。

6


7


Balenciaga Nicolas Ghesquiere deftly balanced creativity with versatility to create a brilliantly-inspired, accessible collection. The weight of sublime, leather-knit jackets was juxtaposed with softly-draping florals. Strip-panelled shirts and netted tunics gave heavy pieces a sense of lightness and minimalist coats played down leatherbanded pants, while fluid, black skirts were anchored with heavy, leather trim and paired with cool, knitted clutches. 巴黎世家 Nicolas Ghesquiere在創意與多元化之間取 得巧妙平衡,創造出意念非凡的親民系列。 美妙絕倫的皮革針織夾克極具影響力,與柔 和修長的花卉圖案相得益彰。嵌以布條的襯 衫以及網狀長罩衫為厚重的服裝帶來一絲輕 盈感,簡約的大衣淡化了皮革鑲邊褲子的形 象,而流暢的黑色裙子以厚重的皮革飾邊裝 點,與型格的針織無帶皮包搭配起來。

8


9


Celine Inspired by the interiors of vintage cars, this season Phoebe Philo presented an altogether moremasculine aesthetic. Trousers sported wide stripes, minimalist tops and split skirts were cut from wood-panel graphics and cool jackets were crafted from rounded strips to create an upholstered look. Meanwhile, traces of femininity coursed through the collection with glimpses of tea rose, sheer fabrics and flashes of fur. Celine Phoebe Philo從老爺車的內部得到啓發,在本季推出更具陽剛美感的服裝。寬條紋長褲、簡約上衣以及開 叉裙上印有木板圖案,而型格夾克則以圓形條紋,帶出裝潢的感覺。同時,少量的茶玫瑰色透明面料以及 顯眼的皮毛則為該系列增添幾分嫵媚。

10


11


Chanel In the midst of an apocalyptic forest, models at Chanel trod the boards between smouldering rocks to the evocative beat of ‘A Forest’ by The Cure. This setting lent the collection a grungy vibe, echoed on the runway by tight, black pants, tough boots, baggy trousers and cropped jackets. More-feminine pieces retained a gritty edge, with trailing knitted gowns, fingerless gloves and heavily-embellished shoulders on sheer, black gowns. 香奈兒 在末日森林的背景下,香奈兒的模特兒踏著冒煙岩石之間的木板,隨著The Cure令人回味的「A Forest」 音樂節奏出場。這一舞台為該系列注入頹廢元素,伸展台上的黑色緊身褲、硬身靴子、寬鬆長褲以及短夾 克更加強化了這一形象。修長的針織禮服、無指手套,以及肩部使用大量裝飾的透明黑色禮服更具女性魅 力,但仍保留了一絲粗獷感。 12


13


Chloé The 70s was the dominant chord that underpinned many aspects of Chloé’s latest collection, as Hannah MacGibbon intermingled heavily-structured pieces with ultra-feminine looks. Masculine, widecut pants, stiff, leather overcoats and colour-blocked ponchos appeared amidst see-through, rufflenecked shirts and striking, snakeskin pieces that ranged from patchwork tops and silky, kelly green skirts to whirling, diaphanous dresses. Chloé Chloé的最新系列在許多方面都以70年代為主調,Hannah MacGibbon將結構感極強的服裝與非常女性化的 外觀混合起來。陽剛的寬褲、硬身皮大衣及以色塊點綴的披風搭配皺褶領透視襯衫以及各種令人驚訝的蛇 皮革服裝,包括雜色上衣、鮮黃綠色絲質裙子以及飄逸的精緻連衣裙。 14


15


Christophe Guillarme Continuing his passion for shimmering, night-time glamour, Christophe Guillarme paraded another line-up of dazzling eveningwear. Skin-tight pants in glossy black and glittering gold were paired with slashed, patterned tops. Meanwhile, short dresses stood out in silky hot pink and monochrome prints, and floor-length gowns captivated in beaded vermilion and ruched silver, split to the thigh. Christophe Guillarme Christophe Guillarme推出另一個耀眼晚裝系列,繼續抒發其對於繽紛夜魅力的熱愛。亮黑色及亮金色的緊 身褲與印有圖案的開叉上衣搭配起來。另外,帶有黑白印花的熾熱粉紅色絲質短裙非常搶眼,而高開叉的 拖地禮服以繡珠深紅面料及褶飾銀色面料製成,極具魅力。

16


17


fashion from the runway

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