2012 No. 41 EURO !18.00 Italy only
AUD $28.00 (INC. GST)
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ITALY !18.00
RMB 짜140.00
USA $36.95
PHP $500.00
THB $620
SGD S$30.00
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2012-13 Autumn / Winter
PARIS NEW YORK
HONG KONG www.wfm.hk | !"#$!"#
02
2012 No. 41 EURO !18.00 Italy only
AUD $28.00 (INC. GST)
HK $90.00
ITALY !18.00
RMB 짜140.00
USA $36.95
PHP $500.00
THB $620
SGD S$30.00
WON $22,000
TWD NT$420.00
RP $204,000
2012-13 Autumn / Winter
PARIS NEW YORK
HONG KONG www.wfm.hk | !"#$!"#
02
01 Vuitton Louis
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/LHK 6MĂ„JL Rm., 2806 Paul Y Centre, 51 Hung To Road, Kwun Tong. Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: 852-3171 4799 Fax: 852-2528 3991 Fashion Editor Fiona Kanaley Yukino Yoshimura .YHWOPJ +LZPNULY Jessie Law Jamie 7OV[VNYHWOLY Terence Chan Raymond Chan 79 4HYRL[PUN Valentino Wan
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Christophe Guillarme
CONTENTS !"#$%&'()&*+,*-,.
/01&23#4&'()&*+,*-,.
56
Shiatzy Chen
58
Sonia Rykiel
92
132
Nicole Miller
3.1 Philip Lim
134
Oscar De La Renta
Alexander Wang
136
Peter Som
04
Agnes B
06
AF Vandervorst
60
Stella McCartney
94
08
Alexander McQueen
62
Talbot Runhof
96
Anna Sui
138
Ports1961
10
Atsuro Tayama
64
Tsumori Chisato
98
BCBG
140
Rag & Bone
12
Balenciaga
66
Valentino
100
Betsey Johnson
142
Ralph Lauren
14
Balmain
68
Viktor & Rolf
102
Blanc De Chine
144
Rebecca Taylor
16
Barbara Bui
70
Vivienne Westwood
104
Calvin Klein
146
;VTT` /PSĂ„NLY
18
Chanel
72
Yohji Yamamoto
106
Christian V. Siriano
148
Vera Wang
20
Chloe
74
Yves Saint Laurent
108
Diane Von Furstenberg
150
J Mendel
22
Comme Des Garcons
76
Ann Demeulemeester
110
Derek Lam
151
Rachel Comey
24
Costume National
77
Anthony Vaccarello
112
Diesel
152
Three As Four
26
Dior
78
Bernard Willhelm
114
DKNY
153
Vivienne Tam
30
Dries Van Noten
79
Cacharel
116
Donna Karan
154
Y3
32
Giambattista Valli
80
Christophe Guillarme
118
Douglas Hannant
155
Zang Toi
34
Givenchy
81
Damir Doma
120
Jason Wu
156
International Fashion Designer
36
Hermes
82
Guy Laroche
122
Lacoste
158
Hong Kong Young Knitwear
38
Jean Paul Gaultier
83
Isabel Marant
124
Marc By Marc Jacobs
40
John Galliano
84
Junko Maeda
126
Monique Lhuilier
42
Kenzo
85
Junya Watanabe
128
Nanette Lepore
44
Lanvin
86
Loewe
130
Narciso Rodriguez
46
Leonard
87
Luis Buchinho
48
Louis Vuitton
88
Mugler
50
Miu Miu
89
Rick Owens
52
Nina Ricci
90
Rochas
54
Paul & Joe
91
Rue Du Mail
Competition 2012
WFM Fashion from the Runway A/W 2012-13
Paris A/W 2012-13
Agnes B &RQWLQXLQJ KHU SDVVLRQ IRU IHVWRRQLQJ FORWKHV ZLWK UHDO OLIH LPDJHV $JQHV E WUDQVIRUPHG VNLUWV ZLWK SKRWRJUDSKV RI JUHHQ SODQWV VWUHHWOLJKWV DW QLJKW DQG FRRO JUDVV HGJHG FREEOHVWRQHV 3UHWW\ SULQWV LQ GUDSLQJ GUHVVHV JDYH WKH FROOHFWLRQ D JLUOLVK DOOXUH WKDW ZDV DFFHQWXDWHG E\ VRIW NQLWV LQ SDVWHO SLQN DQG FRUDO %\ FRQWUDVW EODFN OHDWKHU MDFNHWV VSDQJO\ VWDUV DQG VQDNHVNLQ SULQWV ORRNHG VHW IRU D QLJKW RQ WKH WRZQ 阿尼亞斯貝延續了她用現實中存在的形象裝飾服裝的傳統，用綠色植物、夜晚路燈和酷勁十足的草邊卵石照片使 長裙看上去別有風味。長連衣裙上的美觀印花圖案賦予了整個系列少女風韻，淡粉色和珊瑚色的柔軟針織衫增強 了這種風韻。與之形成鮮明對比的是，黑色皮夾克、閃爍的星星和蛇皮印花衫似乎是為夜晚的城市設計的。
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AF Vandevorst )RU WKH FRPLQJ VHDVRQ %HOJLDQ GHVLJQHUV $QQ DQG )LOLS 9DQGHYRUVW FUHDWHG D VPRXOGHULQJ FROOHFWLRQ WKDW HQWLFHG ZLWK VHGXFWLYH DOOXUH )DFHV REVFXUHG E\ WULOE\ KDWV DQG ORRSLQJ VFDUYHV LQMHFWHG D VHQVH RI P\VWHU\ ZKLOH EDUH EDFNV DQG WUDQVOXFHQW QHWWHG WRSV WULJJHUHG D VHQVXDO IHUYRXU 7KH SURYRFDWLRQ FRQWLQXHG ZLWK LQGXVWULDO JORYHV RYHU WKH NQHH ERRWV DQG EHOWHG O D F H E R G \ V X L W V W K D W F R Q M X U H G GRPLQDWUL[ LPDJHV 比利時設計師Ann和Filip Vandevorst在 新一季創造出極具誘人魅力的悶騷??系 列。大氈帽和長圍巾將面容掩蓋，為設 計注入一絲神秘感，而裸露的背部和半 透明網紋上衣又帶出一份性感熱情。工 業手套、過膝靴子以及束帶蕾絲緊身衣 褲營造出“女主”形象，將這份挑逗進 行到底。
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Alexander McQueen Sarah Burton has perfected the art of crafting drama into physical pieces. Opening the show with fitted, rippling dresses in heavy jacquard paired with fur ruffs and black visors gave rise to 18th century visions. To continue the extravaganza, cool, laser-cut, tufted sheaths were followed by silverILS[LK MLH[OLY` JYLH[PVUZ [HZZLSSLK [YHUZWHYLU[ SH`LYZ HUK ZWLJ[HJ\SHY Ă…VYHS NV^UZ JVUZ[Y\J[LK MYVT a heady mix of deep pink, rich carmine and electric crimson. â€ŤŰ‚â€Źŕ˛śâ€ŤŘżâ€Źŕ¸“Í¨ŕą â€ŤŮžâ€ŹÉ ŕœÖźgВནѧޝ࿍á–?ČżŕŠ€áŽťáƒąáŒŞÉƒĎ„Ńźâ€Ť×¨â€ŹŕťŚâ€ŤŘżâ€ŹŇŒá–šeŕł•Ě ŕ¸œŕś€ŕŻżŕ˘„Í?Čżâ€ŤŕąŠŕ ‡Ú´â€ŹŮŚá“ąâ€ŤŘ°â€Ź á‚‡Îšâ€ŤŘżâ€Źá ‡Ó¸Ř?༔ŕŽ&#x;Ď¸ŕťŁŐ—ÍŠá†™áƒ”cϤඣϳŕ ?ຍŕˇ?஥ȿ ˖޾‍ؿ‏џྋeĐ?â€ŤÝŻâ€Źŕ´œá—Ťŕ “ŕŁ&#x;‍Ö?ؿ‏ᙊcΕႡ‍ڰ‏Ɋӡ ‍ؿ‏á‹?ÍŽĘ˜á–žá?Œŕ˝šá ‡Ó¸Ď¸Éžâ€ŤÍ?ŕ˘„Üƒâ€ŹČżáœąĎ„á‚şĎłÍŠŕŠ“dŕ “ŕŁ&#x;á˜˝ŕľŤâ€Ť×¨Řżâ€ŹŕťŚdŕŠ“Ď„â€ŤÝšâ€ŹŕłŠâ€ŤŘżâ€ŹÎ›á„™ŕŽŚâ€Ť×¨×˘â€ŹŕťŚŐ—ŕ´œá—Ťâ€ŤŘżâ€Ź ŮŚËšŕťŁŕŽ€cŕŽ›Ô’ŕťŁŕŽ€Í…ŕŤŻŕĽ‘Ţ´Ďłdá’ â€ŤŢ´Ý—â€ŹĎłŐ—ŕ˝‹Ţ´ĎłŕŤĽŕ¸†Ď¤ÎšcËĽÉ ŕŹĄŮŚá“´ŕś¤dŕ˝źâ€ŤÝŻâ€ŹáœŽË…e 8 8
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AtsuroTayama Manipulating colour and texture, Atsuro Tayama created a stellar collection that brimmed with structure and originality. Fitted, black jackets bore extended collars and were dramatized with cool leather toggles, while striking vermilion coats were lavished with fur trim. In the same spirit, rib-necked dresses were interlaced with ribbons in deep red, while maize and monochrome tracks crisscrossed dramatic capes. ̈́ɬ࣍ ̈́ɬ࣍С͂ϳ॔ଉˮ˨࿚ ʏॖࡈऋϳܱؿӡͶe࠳Ӹؿඣϳ іКઔ͂ٽეஉ߮cฆτࠎ͊ؿێॗ ᖑख़รԮᎻჱʝcϤፚ͌ؿχɣϸɣ൴ ઔ͂͊উཚᖾcڈਫജe̯ടᅚؿ၀ ुcᖓ॔ეடϸၤ૯ϳؿᇄܮޚι መcϤ̽ϝϳ௰ϳૈٽؿΕᎻჱʝׄؿ 1010
٘ɐᐣ͚፟e
11
Balenciaga With ‘Warm in the Winter’ by Glass Candy as the backing track, Balenciaga presented an up-beat, innovative collection for the coming season. High-waisted, metallic jumpsuits, colour-blocked jackets with sculpted shoulders and printed blouson tops took viewers on a retro trip back to the 80s. Meanwhile, unfinished, cropped jackets, lime skirts and cool boots resonated with a hip vibe. Ęąá‰Ë–य़ Ε*ODVV &DQG\â€ŤËŹÂ§Řżâ€ŹĘ¨ŕšƒŕ¸˜Â¨ß‡ŕąĄŕ ‘á…ĽášźÎźÉŽcĘąá‰Ë–ŕĄźâ€ŤÝŻâ€Źŕ¸“ČšŐżŕŠ“ Ôžâ€Ťá™şÝ â€ŹĎ¤ŕ¸“á‹ˇâ€ŤŘżâ€ŹÓĄÍśeŕ§?ຜ‍ٟ‏ᙔŕŽ&#x;ӸϸdËžĎłŕˇ•á’¨á ˆâ€ŤŘżâ€Źŕˇ?Ů˜Ń–ĐšËžĘĽŕŠ“ τͿٌ‍ؿ‏ຍߍÉ?Ď¸ŕŠ“áƒ”áœŽŕŹ ŕľŹÉƒ ιˤ‍ؿ‏ᇲ̀ɞ࣠eá ¤ĎŠÎƒŕŁ‚cÉşŕ łá–ž ‍ؿ‏೛іКdá‚śáŠśĎłâ€ŤŘżâ€ŹŕťŁÉĽËžĘĽĎ„â€ŤŘżŰŽâ€Źŕ˝?ÉĽá›˝ŕŹŠČżáƒšâ€ŤŕŁ&#x;ŕ “Ű„â€Źe
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Balmain Inspired by a Faberge egg once owned by Elizabeth Taylor, Olivier Rousteing’s show dazzled with unabated opulence. Texture was the touchstone of the collection with nostalgic tapestries gracing bodices and square-shouldered jackets being embellished with shiny studs, shimmering pearls and glittering crystals. A tough, resilient look was imbued by lashings of leather and heavy beading that was beautifully countered by trousers in soft, apricot suede and split skirts in lush, velvet imprints. 2OLYLHU 5RXVWHLQJ͠ᗫଡ଼͉g࣮৺౦ኟτ ؿȹؒӴဍ୶Ᏽc̨ȿȹรသ ਫജࣂؿӞeሔΔܰӡͶؿ͏ټcᕤᓿ ಇ˥၇ӸॳϸᛷඏcϤʿ٘іК˞ڋ ཚোdᘚଡނकˋڋౠАݯᒨ၈eɣ൴͊ ࠎࠇڴकཚؿ༜͂Ꮺˮೝ࣍ਠੜؿѼോc ϤܹசҤϳࠍࠎ˞ʥτɣ൴Ϳ٦ؿ ɞ̝ќΔᄈȿܹɾe
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Barbara Bui R e f e re n c i n g t h e 8 0 s g l a m o u r epitomised by Bianca Jagger and Jerry Hall, Barbara Bui set out to recreate the era’s decadent elegance. Minimalist pantsuits lent an androgynous appeal, while metallic fabrics and shimmers of gold reverberated with disco fever. Fusing the West with the East, an Asian undercurrent coursed through the collection with smoking jackets mimicking Chinese quilts, serpents spiralling across tops and tigers poised above thigh-high splits. %DUEDUD %XLËž ÎąË¤ŕş¤Ô°É â€ŤŘ°â€Ź%LDQFD -DJJHUŐ—-HUU\ +DOOĐ?‍ݯ‏਄ϣcŕ ‡ŕ¸“ŕˇ? ŕŽĽČżÔ…ŕ ŻŕŁ‚Ë¤â€ŤŘżâ€Źá?żá„ ᎚ŕś?eรᓯ˚ຎ áŒŕĄ¨ŕťŚá†şŕŽĽËŽÉťÖ˛á‰¤ÉˆcϤ‍ٟ‏ᙔŕ ?ࢿ Ő—á˜šŕŹĄâ€ŤŮźâ€ŹĎłËĽÉ á?˛ŕˇąÔˇßťŕąœŢŤÓ”ᆅe ŕŽ‰ßŽŕ˘‘áŒŞŕŽ‘â€Ť×‏ϚcŕŠ€Ô“â€ŤÝ˜â€ŹĘ?ŕĽ–á˜¤Ń„Î• ໮ӡͶɾɻeÓ˜Î˛â€ŤÚ?â€ŹŕťŚá…ĄÍ?ɝβ๽འႇĐ?cÉ?ϸЗ࿜‍ݓ‏ŕ°ŮŚŕĽ”cϤŕ§?ŕś€Éž ໣ɥÉ?‍ؿ‏Ϣ‍ࣖࣖŕŁ?ŕž‡ŮŻâ€ŹÎŁÍ e 1616
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Chanel Staged at the Grand Palais in Paris, Karl Lagerfeld sent models with jewelencrusted eyebrows into a wintry scene to wander amid stark, towering crystals. Reinterpreting classic styles, Lagerfeld created pantsuits with skirt overlays from shiny tweed and solid bolts of pure black, icy white and granite grey. For outerwear, striking coats were melded into startling mineral shapes, were trimmed with signature braiding or captivated with MLH[OLY` ÅV\YPZOLZ PU LIVU` HUK JVIHS[ blue. ΕʱቭɣࡾޒᐾϷؿೕ̠ผɐc˺ဍg ּࣟഥဍᜑˉޛɐᜱτक""ᗸؿᅡऋࠨ Εˬౡɻdঢ়ᐳؿౠɾං үeݯȿࠇณᘷࠓࣟcּࣟഥဍ ઔ͂ೕؿڋଷ٦ՙक़ඣϳdு͉ϳ ͏ቮϘ̠ࢿஉ߮ȿၤຫฆٽؿጭࡨ eἙϸஉ߮ɐcፚ͌ؿɣϸฆι ˥Ɂ͌बु়ؿᘊ͏Ѽرc͂ᅟႌֲؿ ᐌАݯᖾᇂཚcֶّτඣᏋϳ 1818
༱ᔂϳؿϡˉ٦ཚe
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Chloe For her second season at the helm of Chloe, Clare Waight Keller combined muted colours and palpable texture to create an array of smart casual pieces. Elasticized skirts and baggy pants created relaxed ZPSOV\L[[LZ MVY[PÄLK I` KYVW ^HPZ[ KYLZZLZ [OH[ YHKPH[LK PU ZOPU` Y\MV\Z 4LHU^OPSL TPUPTHSPZ[ V]LYJVH[Z PU soft peach with winged collars, with shimmering quilted panels or layered with fawn lace struck a feminine chord. Ει⭝ݯԗుپɁؿɀտɻcКഠဍgၐऋgௗ৺ੀਊϳၤᘩሔΔcஉ߮ȿȹӡͶ၀ќڏؿeᄦ Ɉ΄ᏌጭɁ˞ͤඃؿѼോcϤڋᇱϳؿГຶடϸɌ൬ȹүᄈੜȿိѼോeࣂcܹ࣠ϳؿᓯ ᐮე̔ࡨτೕؿڋ౽ࣟࢿֶඡᇱϳΛᄙ٦ᖾcۗᚊȿɤֲࣩሔؿ֞e 2020
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Comme Des Garcons Paring everything back to its most basic form, Rei Kawakubo sent models across a plywood runway, unaccompanied by music, to parade minimalist pieces in jolting colours. Fabulous, highly-stylized coats snagged attention with elongated sleeves and exaggerated hips in siren red, hot pink and pretty lilac. Patterns crept in with streaks of paint converging across fatigue and animal prints before giving way to allLUJVTWHZZPUN YPJO ZPSR` ÅVYHSZ ΕؿณӡͶɻcɭɔ˾ށړ ᐥగᓯcᜑȹʘΑᓊਥ̯ؿѼ ྸeΕӀτࠑᅥЂۗؿᇒ Њࢄ̎ɐcᅡऋࠨࢄ͐ȿϳ ౚᙚؿᓯרeঢ়۹ࠓࣟ ʝؿജᗫɐϸઔ͂˱ٽϸ ਜ਼ڋؿϳd᜔॑ ϳॖඏϳᐸஉ ߮cɊʗʵɁ؇͌e় ৽Ϳذ٦ɐؿᔿ ࢿૈ॔ɺ෮Δ࿚ ιȿိိ࣐྇c፭ ܃˳ܰؿфȹ ʘdᒠᝉؿሔ٦ ˹̠ࢿe
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Costume National Taking a walk on the dark side, Ennio Capasa worked with a monochrome palette interspersed with traces of red and beams of bright blue. An abundance of leather and sharp, asymmetrical lines gave rise to a harsh aesthetic that was accentuated by tough, knee-high boots. Meanwhile, gripping tops, sheer fabrics, plunging necklines and long gloves created a dangerous, womanly allure ࡥ̛ෙg˺֔ᔁᚻඣดࠓࣟ͂ ඣ͉ϳሁ൬Ϸஉ߮cɻංޮైʭ ஈϳڋᔂϳАݯᒨ၈eɣ ൴ࠎ͊ؿፚ͌ؿɺྦྷီᇃૈ ଐ́ȿȹိயֲؿcϤೝ ሔঢ়೭ཏᄈੜȿိe ࣂcʵɁ؇͌ؿɐdᑁ̠॓ ࢿd૯ეɟࡨʹٽअμˮȹ ိ፮ɤɁؿ႖ఫe
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Dior To the sound of crashing music, Bill Gaytten paraded gorgeous, danceinspired pieces, alive with grace and femininity. Belted waists and long, whisper-thin skirts were followed by tapered trousers, diaphanous layers and whirling ethereal pleats in cerulean blue, deep carmine and rich aubergine. Fur and black leather endowed a sense of gravitas, while embellished satin and high-heeled pumps underscored the collection’s ballet aspirations. ΕቊኢɁʶؿᅥᐰɻcˈဍgၰᅿࢄ͐ȿ ᜔ᗫؿၦᑰࠓࣟרcึݗടඏܹ ࣩሔeҢຶɐ࠳Ӹٽɾ܃cࢄ͐ȿ ौ຺ጭdעʑϸႦؿޔᑓફѼϛᑗ cеଊˮʨᔂϳd૯ݗϳᒠᝉ ϳؿᘖय़ϳeˉ͊ၤඣࠎɁ˞ᗲ cϤ͂ཚذᒨ၈ؿ၌ᇄঢ়།௰ޯˮ ȿኬӡͶؿ٢ᑂᗗՈe
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Dries Van Noten Staged at the Hotel de Ville in Paris, models at Dries Van Noten paced beneath suspended chandeliers to parade a collection that was rich in texture and colour. Scarf-like patterns edged in azure and cobalt blue converged across adroitlytailored jackets and billows of silk. Elsewhere, striking, panelled coats in shades of olive took on a more rigid appearance, while Asian motifs filtered through with stylized Japanese prints and stunning p h o e n i x i m a g e s w ro u g h t f ro m shimmering gold thread. 'ULHV 9DQ 1RWHQࣂؿӞΕʱቭᄨၐ ဍৈ֙ᐾϷcᅡऋԫΕ΄Ɏࢄ͐ȿ รఒሔϳዉࣂؿӡͶeτᇗ ᔂϳ༱ᔂϳᜱᖾؿɲ࣐྇З၀ ʶᐡႇؿіК˞ʥɣːؿ၌ࠍࢿe ϭכԯˢऋᒨcᜱτᔵϳ̠ૈd˞ ፚ͌ኺᜩ၆ݯϳሁؿɣϸᏪˮҡ˱ ೝ࣍ؿѼോcϤԓ࣐྇ݘޮኬӡ Ͷc˳ܢβͿ٦˞ʥ͂ᘚଡټᇃᓵ ι়ؿɁუ৷࣐྇ 3030
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Giambattista Valli Within the confines of the Couvent des Cordeliers, Giambattista Valli paraded elegant sophistication with punch. Fabulous woven coats were worn over cropped, black trousers, sleek dresses radiated in alizarin crimson and chunky knits counter-balanced skirts spliced with translucent panels. Solid belts drew attention to waists, while funky platform shoes instilled the collection with an uber cool edge. ΕޫᄨСࡥ࠳༞τࠉيؿංʑc ʱෑg̿Сࢄ͐ȿϳᘖय़ؿร ߎඏeജᗫؿᇁᓱɣϸၤಁඣጭ ฆcࣂֆடϸౙೕˮ૯ϳͮؿ ӫcଷৌᓱ߫ၤ˸עᔵϳ̠ૈܙ અϤιٽؿޚऩྴeक़ϳ͊ੀ ᜮଠؿ഼ᇃмʵԷຶcϤ̊ᗘؿᕌ ጄልʀȿኬӡͶȹိรႷࣟؿ ሁe
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fashion from the runway