WFM+MEN N14 SS2013

2012 No. 13 EURO €18.00 Italy only

2013

Spring / Summer Milan / Paris London / Florence Stefano Ricci | www.wfm.hk

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Stefano Ricci

Stefano Ricci Spring / Summer 2013

40th Anniversary

Dsquared2 Stefano Ricci

+ MEN

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Diesel Black Gold

CONTENTS Florence / London S/S 2013

Milano Moda Uomo S/S 2013

Mode a Paris S/S 2013

04

Bottega Veneta

92

AgnesB

146

Alexis Mabille

08

Burberry Prorsum

94

Comme des Garcons

148

Carven

12

Canali

96

Dior Homme

150

Stefano Ricci

16

Carlo Pignatelli

98

Dries Van Noten

152

Valentino

20

Corneliani

100

Givenchy

154

Margaret Howell

22

Costume National Homme

102

Hermes

156

Nicole Farhi

24

Calvin Klein

104

Issey Miyake

158

Pringle of Scotland

27

Daks

106

John Galliano

30

Diesel Black Gold

108

Junya Watanabe

34

Dolce & Gabbana

110

Kenzo

36

DSquared2

112

Kolor

38

Emporio Armani

114

Kris Van Assche

40

Enrico Coveri

116

Lanvin

42

Ermanno Scervino

118

Louis Vuitton

44

Ermenegildo Zegna

122

Mihara Yasuhiro

47

Etro

124

Paul Smith

50

Gucci

128

Qasimi Homme

53

Fendi

130

Raf Simons

54

Frankie Morello

132

Rick Owens

56

Giorgio Armani

134

Viktor & Rolf

58

Iceberg

136

Yohji Yamamoto

60

Jil Sander

138

3.1 philipLim

62

John Richmond

139

Acne

64

John Varvatos

140

Ann Demeulemeester

66

Les Hommes

141

Bernhard Willhelm

68

Missoni

142

Damir Doma

69

Moncler Gamme Bleu

143

Pierre Cardin

70

Moschino

144

Thierry Mugler

71

Neil Barrett

145

Wooyougmi

72

Ports1961

74

Prada

76

Roberto Cavalli

78

Roccobaroocco

79

philipplein

80

Salvatore Ferragamo

82

Siviglia

83

umitbenan

84

Trussardi

86

Versace

88

Vivienne Westwood

90

Z Zegna

WFM+MEN fashion from the Runway S/S 2013

Bottega Veneta A nonchalant aura prevailed at Bottega Veneta as Tomas Maier paraded layered pieces in rich, rustic hues. Drawstring s crumpled jackets enhanced the relaxed feel of the show.

Meanwhile, traces of spring budded amid the autumnal shades with leaf motifs spanning suits, cream, buttoned cardigans paired with pleated pants and funky ensembles bedecked with

Tomas Maier

Milan moda uomo 2013

4 161

139 5

6 161

139 7

Burberry Prorsum Christopher Bailey presented a fabulous collection of dizzying contrasts. Shirts, trenches and trousers snapped and crackled in vibrant shots of bold, tinselly colours.

Meanwhile, simmering beneath the glamour and glitz, dapper models paraded svelte suits, narrow ties and a profusion of pretty geometric prints in amber, cerise and celestial blue.

Christopher Bailey

8 161

139 9

10161

139 11

Canali

For the coming season, Canali of fun. Models sauntered down a suits paired with ribboned fedoras pretty, linen pinstripes and bright

presented traditional elegance, infused with a sense wide-striped runway to parade shimmering, tailored and stylish scarves. More casual attire included out against black trousers in bright, glimmering,

palm tree motifs.

Canali

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139 13

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139 15

Carlo Pignatelli Taking inspiration from both Charles Dickens’ 19th century England and Indian culture, Carlo Pignatelli created a show that was rich in sartorial elegance. Against a luxurious backdrop, replete with chandeliers, models with gold-dusted brows and glittering jewels paraded slick suits worn with open-toed sandals. Majestic jackets took the limelight in burnished brocades, embroidered, white silk and feathery fringes.

Carlo Pignatelli

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139 17

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19 139

Corneliani As a reaction to modern, casual attire, Corneliani set out to reclaim something of the lost elegance and style of yesteryear. Taking an historical approach, school boy images took to the runway in cool, zippered jackets, suits in a myriad of grey shades.

Tailored lines that held fast to tradition were tempered by draping fabrics and long scarves to create a smart casual allure.

20161

139 21

Costume National Homme Always on the frontier of fashion, for the coming season, Ennio Capasa took inspiration from David Bowie’s recording about a trip from London to Mombasa. Cool, edgy looks were created by intermeshing Capasa’s trademark linear cuts and layered pieces with belted safari jackets and knotted scarves. Meanwhile, the underlying rock element was referenced by colourful tattoos, laser-cut tops and hole-punched belts.

22161

139 23

Calvin Klein

The show at Calvin Klein opened with strong silhouettes as Italo Zucchelli sent out retro, top-stitched bombers, collared shirts and straight-legged jeans in tough denim. The hard lines continued with zippered jackets and fitted suits in jet black and shades of neutral. Elsewhere, Zucchelli created feminine nuances by instilling the collection with blouson tops Calvin Klein Italo Zucchelli

24161

139 25

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Daks Delving into Dak’s archives, designer Filippo Scuffi made classic checks the touchstone of this season’s show. Checks were cut into cool, slate-grey suits, smart shirts and funky sweaters.

Continuing the sense of nostalgia, top hats and bow ties anchored the collection in the past, while and vivid shots of burnt orange pulsated with a modern edge.

Daks

139 27

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139 29

Diesel Black Glod Opening with a live pianist accompanied by a thrumming backbeat, Renzo Rosso paraded rock and roll images, doused with glamour a n d r e t r o a p p e a l . To u g h visions of faded jeans, ‘Blame Me’ motifs and tattooed skin were intermingled with soft, shimmering fabrics, pretty eyelet shirts and lasercut jackets. By contrast, classic pinstripes and the ubiquitous pork pie hats underpinned the collection’s vintage allure.

161

Renzo Rosso

“Blame Me

139 31

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139 33

Dolce & Gabbana Banishing the dark palette and heavy brocades of last season, Dolce and Gabbana returned to their Sicilian roots to present a collection that brimmed with small village authenticity. With folk music playing in the background, men and boys of all ages took to the runway in belted shorts and t ro u s e r s p a i re d w i t h fabulous, nostalgic images. Vibrant geometrics added to the festive feel, while striped tanks and leather satchels fortified the show’s provincial appeal.

34161

139 35

Dsquared2 For their latest outing, Dean and Dan Caten paraded cool, nightclub shirts festooned with denim applique, decorative medals and striking skull motifs. Soft layering infused fluidity, while snatches of animal print and the ubiquitous, heavy, black chains reinforced the hardened clubbing aesthetic.

Dean

36161

Dan Caten

139 37