60 60 YEARS YEARS OFOF ADVENTURE ADVENTURE AND AND DISCOVERY DISCOVERY
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WINTER WINTERSALE SALE
from the editor 124
issue no.
february 2018
m a n a g in g Edi tor Richard Brown
c o n t e n t d i r e ctor dawn alford
a s s is ta n t Edi tors david taylor Melissa emerson
J EWEL L E RY EDITOR “I can’t believe you morons actually buy this s**t.” On 21 February 2007, as Sotheby’s was auctioning his Balloon Girl and Bomb Hugger in London, Banksy updated his website with a painting of an auctioneer presiding over a rapt crowd. The auctioneer was taking bids on a framed canvas printed with the words above. Balloon Girl reached £37,200. Bomb Hugger sold for £31,200. A day earlier, as part of the same auction, Bombing Middle England went for £102,000, becoming the most expensive Banksy ever sold. Banksy is not just the world’s most famous street artist. He is one of the world’s most famous artists, full stop. Today, his politically-charged prints sell for millions. Celebrity acolytes include Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, Keanu Reeves and Christina Aguilera. One family in Bristol, on whose house Banksy had decorated, listed their home for sale as a mural with a building attached. About the satirical stencilist we know legendary little. Around 1993 his blocky spraypainted signature started appearing on trains and walls around Bristol. By 2011, his guerrilla ‘bombings’ had spread across the UK, before being spotted in Vienna, San Francisco, Barcelona and Paris. Pranks started supplementing the spray painting. At an anti-war demonstration in 2003, Banksy distributed signs that read ‘I Don’t Believe In Anything. I’m Just Here for the Violence’. In 2004, he walked into the Louvre and hung a reproduction of the Mona Lisa with a yellow smiley face on a wall. In the same year, a batch of spoof £10 notes were produced, which substituted the Queen’s head with Princess Diana’s, and changed ‘Bank of England’ to ‘Banksy of England.’ A wad was thrown into a crowd at Notting Hill Carnival. There was Banksus Militus Vandalus, a taxidermy rat equipped with a miniature spray can that went unnoticed in the Natural History Museum for three days; another fake prehistoric cave painting in the British Museum; then the inflatable Guantánamo Bay doll that popped up at Disneyland. ‘Banksy is a nancy boy,’ read the artist’s Wikipedia entry for a while. ‘Banksy is a rip-off.’ More recently, Banksy – who’s either the frontman of Massive Attack, a middle-class spectacle-wearing Bristonian, or a collective of seven underground artists, depending on which conspiracy theory you read – has tagged the West Bank barrier; received an Oscar nomination for his street art documentary Exit Through the Gift Shop; and opened a dystopian bemusement park called Dismaland. Whoever he is, in 2003 the artist put on a show in a railway arch on Kingsland Road called Turf War. His first major London show featured live pigs, cows spray-painted with targets, and The Queen depicted as a chimpanzee. In attendance was John Higginson, a young, cash-strapped reporter from a local newspaper. Grabbed by the show’s political message, Higginson wiped out his bank balance by buying 10 original prints at £40 a poke. Little did he know that 15 years later he’d be sitting in a New York auction room waiting for the hammer to fall on lot number one, his original, Banksy-signed Golf Sale. Discover what happened next on page 22. Stay lucky. Enjoy the issue.
MHAIRI GRAHAM
ART E DITOR Laddawan Juhong
Ge n era l M anag e r Fiona Smith
Pro du cti on Hugo Wheatley Alice Ford Jamie Steele
Pro pe rt y Di rector Samantha Ratcliffe
Ex e c u t iv e D i r e ctor Sophie Roberts
M a n a g in g Di r ector Eren Ellwood
Published by
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Cover Image
(p.86): Original colour transparency of Franklin D Roosevelt taken at 1944 Official Campaign Portrait session by Leon A. Perskie, Hyde Park, New York, August 21, 1944. FDR Presidential Library & Museum
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PROPERTY
February 2018
Contributors
contents
124
issue no.
Shabaka Hutchings performs during Nicholas Daley’s AW18 presentation at London Fashion Week Men’s. Photo: Ollie Adegboye
Chris Allsop Chris is a Bath-based freelance journalist and photographer who writes mostly about travel, film and cheese. This month, Chris documents the world’s untamed places, where even Google dares not tread (p.98).
64 on the cover
22 Banking on Banksy How a speculative bid on an unknown street artist paid off. Big Time 26 Cryptomania Capitalising on digital currencies 30 Gilty Pleasures How to gain access to the world’s most sought-after addresses 36 Artists at work Why do companies invest in their own art collections? 52 Fogo: An Atlantic Odyssey The remote island using architecture to put itself on the world map 64 London Fashion Week Men’s What you’ll be wearing this time next year 86 Franklin Delano Roosevelt A new biography shines a light on FDR, the president who humanised America 94 A country of Colour Cambodia’s cultural renaissance
City Edit
18 The House of Vuitton The luxury French brand’s new flagship has opened back where it all began 20 Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona A jewel in the crown of the Passeig de Gràcia
10
city social
32 Monthly digest Merchants Tavern, Portuguese delicacies, and the UK’s biggest beer festival
city Style
Jeremy Taylor Jeremy is a freelance features writer and regular contributor to the Financial Times and Sunday Times Magazine. Turn to page 80 to see that when it comes to the Lamborghini Huracán Spyder, less is more.
45 Jewellery News Give Cupid a little help with some Valentine’s Day bling 48 Where watches are made An insight into the world of mechanical timepieces at Blancpain HQ 68 Haberdasher Street How Drake’s makes its world-beating ties
City Motoring
80 Whirlwind Romance The Lamborghini Huracán Spyder is a lightweight beauty 84 Blast from the Past Is Triumph’s new Bobber a matter of presentation over performance?
City Travel
92 Around the World From Laax to Beverly Hills, these are the latest destinations worth escaping to 98 The Atlas of Untamed Places The destinations even Google hasn’t ventured
Jack Watkins Jack’s writing on history and politics has featured in titles such as The Guardian, The Daily Telegraph and The Independent. On page 86, Jack discusses the legacy of Franklin D. Roosevelt in the light of a new biography.
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28683 Creed Love In White_235x333_Lux Mandarin Mag.indd 1
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Signe d’exception. Available exclusively in fine wine shops and in the best restaurants. champagne-billecart.com
CITY LIFE F e b r u a r y
2 0 1 8
Luxury British brands Jaguar and Private White V.C. have come together to create a limited-edition Harrington jacket. Produced in a run of 200 pieces, each garment will be numbered by hand and feature co-branded copper studs. ÂŁ595, privatewhitevc.com
p. 14
The Edit how the city skyline will look in eight years’ time
p. 22
p. 26
Banking on Banksy how a punt on an unknown s t r e e t a r t i s t pa i d o f f
Cryptomania how to Capitalise on the digital currency craze
the Edit
The commodities and consumables raising our interest rates this month
architecture
no.
01 A Glimpse of the Future The City sykline is set to change – and sooner than you think
The City is about to get a whole lot taller. New CGI imagery of the City’s potential skyline in 2026 shows a significant transformation, within the ‘Eastern Cluster’ in particular. In total, 13 new schemes have been consented, are under construction or due to get underway shortly. In fact, around 60 per cent of the City’s entire growth is situated in this eastern part of the Square Mile. Brexit hasn’t stopped the progress: as of September 2017, there was more than 1.37 million sq m of office space under construction in the City – 150,000 sq m more than in March 2016, before the EU referendum – with the potential to house 85,000 additional workers. Six of the 13 planned constructions will have viewing platforms, accessible and free to the general public, and one – 22 Bishopsgate – has agreed to have all of its deliveries sent to an offsite centre, to reduce traffic during construction. cityoflondon.gov.uk
Images courtesy of GMJ and City of London Corporation
THE car 4.6 seconds
Time it takes to go from 0-62 mph
155 mph
Top speed, (all-electric top speed is 75 mph)
3D Printing
Parts of the car were produced by new printing technology
33 miles
Distance possible with the Roadster producing zero emissions
16 seconds
To retract the roof at speeds of up to 31 mph
the Edit
no.
02
BMW i8 Roadster & Coupé
The future of supercars just had an upgrade
Following the premiere of BMW’s i8 Roadster in December, order books are now open. The release comes alongside an update to the i8 Coupé, and adds to BMW’s collection of loweremission supercars – a collection that the company says can usher in the future of sports cars. The i8 Roadster is certainly impressive. BMW’s eDrive technology has been given a boost, with significantly more
instances of electric-motor-only driving. The i8’s lithium-ion battery has also been updated – the Roadster can now cover up to 33 miles with zero emissions, and the Coupé 34 miles. The Roadster’s soft-top roof opens and closes in 16 seconds at a speed of up to 31 mph. It also folds away perpendicularly, giving
you 100 litres more storage space. The clever touches don’t stop there: opening the roof raises the rear windows by about 30 mm, reducing turbulence. You’ll be grateful for the reduction: the Roadster goes from 0-62 in 4.6 seconds, with a top speed of 155mph. BMW i8 Coupé from £112,730, Roadster from £124,730, bmw.co.uk
THE Art no.
03
The House of Vuitton
the Edit
Louis Vuitton enjoys a glittering homecoming with its newly-designed Paris flagship
Bastion of French style Louis Vuitton’s new flagship store in Paris celebrates its heritage and future, situated on the square where it all began. In 1835, a 13-year-old working-class boy from eastern France, Louis Vuitton, started walking to Paris. He arrived two years later, doing a series of odd jobs along the way. Over the next 20 years, he built a reputation as the finest trunk maker in France, eventually serving both French and international royalty from 1854 in his shop on Place Vendôme. The new flagship is on the same square, and has been designed by American architect Peter Marino to reflect Paris, past and present. The interiors of the Louis Vuitton Maison have a modern, minimalist aesthetic, while the exterior of the store, designed by Versailles architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart, has remained faithful to original plans, save for a dazzling installation across the entire façade by thebrand’s creative director Faye McLeod. The future’s bright for La Maison. louisvuitton.com
Photography: Stéphane Muratet, courtesy of Louis Vuitton
THE Hotel no.
04
Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona
the Edit
A jewel in the crown of the Passeig de Gràcia
Passeig de Gràcia is Barcelona’s most luxury-laden boulevard. Brioni sits near Swarovski; Chanel vies for your attention with next-door Dior; the street, less than a mile long, is bookended by Emporio Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna. It also boasts some of the city’s most architecturally important buildings by, among others, Barcelona’s favourite son, Antoni Gaudí. As one of the most exclusive streets in Barcelona – and Spain in general – it’s no surprise that the Mandarin Oriental sits at its centre. The MO Barcelona faces Casa Batlló, one Gaudí’s most revered buildings, and is itself an architectural beauty. On walking up the expansive, floating ramp to reception, however, the design changes. It becomes a more modern, brighter hotel, with walls reaching up to a glass ceiling seven floors above. You’re provided with a concierge, whose personal mission is to make your stay as comfortable and easy as possible, and is available at any time for any whim. The rooms reflect the contemporary image of the rest of the hotel, with free-standing
baths, monsoon showers, and minimalist, comfortable balconies overlooking a discreet courtyard. The courtyard is actually comprised of the back of a number of buildings, and the calm of a sleepy Barcelona adds a surprising degree of normality and quiet to one of the city’s busiest areas. The roof terrace offers an almost unrivalled view of the Eixample district and beyond, with vantage shots of many major Modernista (Catalan modernist) constructions, including Casa Milà, Casa Amatller, and the aforementioned Casa Batlló. A look to the left shows the Gothic Quarter, and further on to sea, while turning round shows you Sagrada Família. Taking the lift all the way down to the base of the hotel lands you in the spa. As is expected, the complex is a sea of calm, with eight treatment rooms including two couples’ suites, a 12-metre lap pool, oriental steam room and a Pedi:Mani:Cure studio by podiatrist Bastien Gonzalez. Both restaurants in the hotel are headed up by superstar chef Carme Ruscalleda, who comes
with seven Michelin stars to her name. The food on offer at Moments and Blanc reflects Catalonia’s food history, and the staff continue the hotel’s approach of calm and care, with thoughtful suggestions and unobtrusive service. Head to the Banker’s Bar for a good time after dinner, the bar hinting to the building’s former use as a bank. Opt for the Banker’s Martini while looking at the ceiling fashioned from original security boxes for a good end to the night – or, if embracing the Spanish way of life, the start. DT mandarinoriental.com/barcelona
PROPERTY
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Banking on
Banksy From a railway arch on the Kingsland Road to an auction house in New York City – how a punt on an unknown street artist paid off. Big Time Words: John Higginson
I
’m in a packed room on East 64th Street. It’s -20C outside, but in here it’s hot. Fur coats, Canada Goose parkas and expectation. Money generates its own heat. People talk quietly or not at all. There is an electric energy amplifying every sound, heightening senses. Upper East Siders here to exchange old money for new art. But not too new. Something on their wall that will make them look cool and risqué but with ROI and an exit plan at the back of the mind. Behind a wall of screens the online traders make sure they don’t get it too cheap. We’re at London-based Forum Auctions’ ‘Banksy NYC’. Some 40 prints from the world’s most famous street artist worth $1m combined are on sale. My wife and I are sitting at the back of the room. We got here early to soak up the atmosphere. But I’m regretting that decision now. Regretting the whole thing. Flying all the way to New York to see if this little print: 13in x 19in; one of 750; not even signed; not even framed; identical to a hundred thousand fakes sold in markets the world over, will sell for thousands of dollars. What was I thinking? Who would pay that? When the auctioneer in London told me that the reserve would be $5,000 I was laughing. Let’s fly to New York I told my wife. I’ve never been. We’ll leave the kids with their grandparents. Swap our BA air miles for business class flights from City Airport. Stay at The Maritime in Chelsea. Eat porterhouse at Keens and drink cocktails on the roof of The Standard. We flew in last night and we spent like lottery winners. But now it hits me: what a schmuck I’ve been. The day after the night before. Too much US prime rib and Malbec running through the veins. What if it doesn’t hit its reserve? What if we fly back with that old print and an empty bank balance? We spent the winnings before the race had even started. But first let’s go back to the start. How I got this little lottery ticket for £40. It’s 2003 and I’m a news reporter working on a local free newspaper no more than a few miles from where you are reading this: the Kent-based News Shopper. I don’t need to tell you I’m poor – you already knew that when I said I was a local reporter. Anyway I’m living in a boat, or to be more accurate it’s a Thames barge, which is a polite name for a river skip. It’s been converted from its original purpose of carrying rocks and sleepers up and down the Thames and is moored permanently on the south bank of the river just east of Tower Bridge. Look out of your shiny tower towards the Design Museum and you can’t miss it. It’s got the trees and plants growing on top. It was a great location for £40 a week for my cabin. The fact that the floor was at a 30-degree angle at low tide and the local Bermondsey kids threw stones at our boats was compensated by the uninterrupted view of Tower Bridge.
F E AT U R E
What if it doesn’t hit its reserve? We spent the winnings before the race had even started
Queen Victoria, 2003, Banksy
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I went to Banksy’s first major London show, Turf War. There were real pigs painted as police cars, live cows covered in targets, life-size angels flying from the ceilings
F E AT U R E
Golf Sale, 2003, Banksy
John stayed at The Maritime, 363 W 16th St, New York 10011. Rooms start at £183 per night, Themaritimehotel.com He travelled British Airways business class from London City Airport to JFK. For Forum Auctions’ next event, visit forumauctions.co.uk
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Anyway, I had been interested in street art for some time having, as a teenager, hung around with one of London’s best graffiti artists, Known. Banksy’s stencil art had started to appear a few years earlier. At first I didn’t get it. Anyone could just paint in the stencil, so where was the value? But I went along to Banksy’s first major London show Turf War, in a railway arch on the Kingsland Road anyway. There were real pigs painted as police cars, live cows covered in targets, life-size angels flying from the ceilings with acid faces wearing riot gear. An animal rights activist chained herself outside while the Met police tried to shut the thing down. The political content of the message just grabbed me. In Golf Sale it takes the hugely powerful image of a protester standing in front of tanks in Tiananmen Square in 1989 holding a golf marketing sign. Its meaning points to the vacuity of our modern consumerist society: ignore the 10,000 people killed by a totalitarian regime over there – over here you can buy goods cheap. Another, Queen Victoria, made a play on the legend that Queen Victoria did not ban lesbianism because, when told about it, she refused to believe it could exist. So, in Banksy’s piece, she sits stony-faced above the face of a woman. Banksy was taking the grizzly pieces of history and telling us about them with a fresh twist. By taking away the creative flair of the hand and the brush stroke with stencils the art was all about the message. It could be repeated exactly the same, 1,000 times. It was no longer about one original piece. It was about one original thought. Banksy had rewritten the rules: art does not have a message – it is the message. At a time when most people either bought original art or a £5 Athena poster, Banksy was selling limited-edition prints for £40 to £60 each – an extraordinary amount of money for prints at the time. I cleared out my bank account by buying 10 of them. I carried them back on my bike in their big cardboard tubes, riding through Dalston and Shoreditch back to Bermondsey like a Chinese peasant. “No wonder you are poor,” said my aspirational thengirlfriend. I proudly put them on my walls and she later went on to marry an Old Etonian banker. We remain friends. Back in New York the auction is about to start and my print, Golf Sale, is the first lot. “Opening the bidding at $3,000,” says the auctioneer. There is a pause that lasts long enough for the earth to open up beneath me and for me to start falling into the abyss. But eventually a paddle flashes up. “3,200?” says the auctioneer, cautiously. Another pause before a shout from the representatives of the online buyer. “$3,500?” A nod confirms it. “$3,800?” Another online buyer enters the fray. “$4,000?” Someone behind me has got involved. I don’t dare turn around. “$4,200”, “$4,500”, “$4,800”. The numbers start rattling towards the reserve like a train picking up speed. I’m sweating profusely. My wife squeezes my hand hard. I look at her. I can see that she has been as nervous as me. We can’t return to London with our tail between our legs. “$5,000.” The reserve is hit. We’re home free. But then it continues. “$5,500.” Like a pacemaker the first man is out of the running as the increments increase. It is between two faceless online buyers represented by a suited man and cashmere-clad woman, who looks like a Bond girl, bashing the numbers furiously into their computers before shouting out confirmations. “$6,000 confirmed”, “$6,500 confirmed”. The eyes in the room go back and forth like at a tennis match. But then the bidding slows. “$7,000” is hit high into the air, but will it be returned? The bidders look like spent lovers. Their dilated eyes staring only at their green screens. “$7,500?” the auctioneer says, looking only at the man in the suit. He taps a request again into his screen. “Going once, going twice… SOLD for $7,000.” My wife gives me a look that says we are going to be making the most of our maritime-themed hotel room tonight. A total of 35 prints in the auction were sold for $758,500 with just five not hitting their reserve. Forum Auctions will be running a London auction with Banksy prints in June this year. My Queen Victoria is currently in storage to save my blushes when the children ask why the queen is sitting on another lady’s face. But this summer it will be in the lot. I’m already looking forward to the buzz.
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F E AT U R E
CryptoMania Capitalising on digital currencies requires a level head Words: James Helliwell, director & chief investment strategist, Lex van Dam Trading Academy
W
e are currently witnessing the biggest mania of my career. Cryptocurrency fever is everywhere. Postmen and pensioners are buying. Google searches for the term ‘Bitcoin’ exceeded those for ‘Beyoncé’, ‘Taylor Swift’ and ‘Kim Kardashian’ combined as the digital currency broke $10,000 in December 2017 (and then doubled in two weeks!).
This mania isn’t limited to the public. In the land where ‘greed is good’, professional speculators are also jumping on the bandwagon to capitalise on this unrivalled volatility and make some fast money. However, the widely anticipated launch of Bitcoin futures has only seen pithy trading volumes, suggesting that adoption by institutional investors remains tepid.
Regulation
If you look beyond the hype, you begin to see the possible reasons for this. Firstly, the case for Bitcoin as a safe haven is impinged by its sheer volatility (compared with, say, gold, which remains the traditional asset in a flight to safety). Secondly, authorities around the world are taking notice and are introducing punitive tax rules and regulations to curb speculation. Nowhere more so than in China and South Korea, where the majority of cryptocurrency investors live (China has banned Initial Coin Offerings and moved to restrict cryptocurrency mining, while South Korea is considering a trading ban). The impact of this can be seen in the price of Bitcoin, which (at the time of print) has retraced around 30 per cent from a high of $20,000. Investors are beginning to
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F E AT U R E
question whether the rally may be over, including Mike Novogratz, who was an early adopter of Bitcoin and scrapped his plans to launch a new hedge fund focused on it. So despite the bulls claiming decentralisation of such currencies as a strength, governments are still ultimately in control. While I suspect that they support the adoption of digital currency as a solution to tax evasion and their insurmountable budget deficits, I think that governments are more likely to create their own centralised version of Bitcoin.
Altcoins
Which brings me to the other cryptocurrencies, or ‘altcoins’ as they are known. The majority of these share a similar decentralised blockchain to Bitcoin, with Ripple being a notable exception. Ripple differs further to Bitcoin as there is only a fixed supply of tokens (think ‘coins’) in circulation and is emerging as the preferred crypto solution for a number of investment banks and companies, including American Express, for its faster settlement speeds and reduced settlement risk.
And it isn’t just Ripple that has seen tremendous gains. The combined value of all altcoins surged 250-fold in 2017, from $2 billion to $500 billion, as investor optimism reached new records. So with all the hallmarks of a mania, is there any validity whatsoever to cryptocurrencies? At the time of writing, there are 1,408 of them competing on Coinbase, a popular reference site for investors. Many of these have at some stage been seen as the holy grail, before being condemned to the increasingly crowded crypto graveyard (including Auroracoin, which had a $1 billion market cap in 2014 and is now worth just $15 million – a 98.5 per cent drop). But there are still pockets of opportunity for focused investing in 2018.
Ethereum
One of the cryptocurrencies I am watching most closely is Ethereum. Without going into the specifics of this particular coin, from a trading perspective it tends to outperform as money rotates out of Bitcoin. Of course, it can still appreciate when the general crypto complex is rising (Bitcoin included). Until the dramatic overshoot in Ripple, Ethereum was the second largest crypto by market cap. The price is currently consolidating around $1,250, though I am looking for a continuation towards $1,500 with a further leg higher targeting $2,000.
Litecoin
Trading price of altcoin Ethereum over two months to 11 January
However, it’s not all good news for Ripple. Indeed, some cryptocurrency purists despise it as a ‘bankster coin’ going against the core philosophy of decentralisation and individual control. There may be some validity to this resistance, as it recently emerged that Ripple gateways can freeze – and effectively confiscate – a user’s funds at any time. Undeterred, and amid rumours that Ripple was going to be added to Coinbase (the largest crypto wallet in the US with over 15 million client accounts), Ripple went on to rally almost 1,000 per cent in December. In trading there’s a saying that the market doesn’t care about your opinion. And there’s another that reminds you that traders are not in the business of ‘being right’, they are in the business of ‘making money’. I bought Ripple on my personal account at $0.90, selling for $2.30 just nine days later to bank a 150 per cent profit, despite seeing the flaws in the bull case. However, I knew my reasons for getting in and getting out of the trade beforehand, whilst the ‘HODL’ crowd (who buy, and ‘Hold On For Dear Life’) watched it stall around $3 before falling 50 per cent. If this isn’t the purest form of speculation, then I don’t know what is.
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Another is Litecoin. Litecoin had been on my radar for a few months before I went long in late November around $95. It led the charge in alt coins until the addition of Bitcoin Cash to Coinbase took over the headlines before Christmas. I sold my original position around $270 when I rotated into Ripple and haven’t returned to Litecoin since. Going forward I expect the announcement that founder Charlie Lee has sold his entire holding to weigh on Litecoin, despite the otherwise encouraging news flow. It could be the one to surprise most in 2018.
Bitcoin
Finally, my analysis wouldn’t be complete without a look at the chart of Bitcoin. From a technical perspective, I’m looking at 10,000 and 18,000 as key technical levels to confirm a breakout in either direction following the current consolidation. I’m not looking to buy Bitcoin unless it tests 8,000. This is still an important chart to watch for determining the likely rotation between the various altcoins, including my favourite trades in Ethereum and Litecoin. I’ll conclude with a final quote that is another favourite of mine. It says, “there are old traders, and there are bold traders. But there are no old, bold traders.” For now, I am trading the first mania of my career with the foresight to ensure that it won’t be my last. I hope for the sake of the investing public that they realise when to get out, before they get wiped out. The blockchain, not Bitcoin, is where the smart money will be made. lexvandam.com
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Pioneer of the modern kitchen open to life – for 125 years Poggenpohl has 21 points of sale throughout the UK & Ireland ¡ uk@poggenpohl.com For your nearest Poggenpohl Studio please go to www.poggenpohl.com/en/find-a-studio 125years.poggenpohl.com
G i l t y
Pleasures New asset-swapping service The Gilt Club offers members access to the world’s most exclusive off-market properties. Rent free Words: Richard Brown
F E AT U R E
I
f you’ve ever seen the film The Holiday, in which a lovelorn Kate Winslet temporarily exchanges homes with workaholic LA executive Cameron Diaz, you’ll understand the basic concept of The Gilt Club. Yet to describe the St James’s-based asset-swapping service simply as an Airbnb for billionaires would be to sell the members’ club short. For while it was indeed set up to provide access to the world’s most exclusive, off-themarket properties, the club has since expanded to cover all manner of millionaire playthings. “As well as a selection of the finest private homes, the assets within our portfolio now include private jets, planes, superyachts and even private estates,” explains Sebastian Orr, who quit his luxury villa rental agency to found The Gilt Club in 2017. The premise is simple: Gilt Club members offer an asset of their own – whether that’s a Kensington townhouse or Brooklyn brownstones, a Courchevel chalet or Mediterranean-stationed yacht – in return for access to the similar worldly goods of other members. The exchange scheme works on a points-based system, and only if there is a significant discrepancy in the value of assets being traded will money change hands. Says Orr: “While some members do use The Gilt Club as a way of generating additional cash, most of our members see it as a way of sidestepping the hassle and fees of rental agencies and gaining access to amazing properties that would never usually come onto the rental market. When it comes to offering up their own assets, our members are safe in the knowledge that they are swapping with a trusted group of likeminded people, all of whom have been vetted by us.” Rather than charging commission on every swap, The Gilt Club charges an annual membership fee of £5,000. So how to apply? “Potential members need to send in a brief description of their asset, along with some images, and we will then arrange a face-to-face meeting and visit the asset. Collectively, our team has visited thousands of properties over the years and we can tell almost instantly if the asset will be suitable for the club.” Assets do not have to be worth a certain value in order to be accepted, as long as they are completely unique and unattainable elsewhere. Exchanges are completed directly between members, with no third parties involved. “It’s up to the owner member to review the enquiring member’s biography and decide if they want to deal with them. If they are not interested, we will politely decline the request on their behalf.” Assets currently in The Gilt Club portfolio stretch from Europe to the Caribbean, through Africa, Asia and South America. So which are the most sought-after? “We have a private island in the Maldives for 12 people that’s very popular,” says Orr. “There’s also a jaw-dropping penthouse on Leblon Beach in Rio de Janeiro.” Sounds like it’s time to join the club.
The Gilt Club is currently accepting guest members who do not wish to exchange assets. For an annual membership fee of £1,000, guest members can rent owner members’ properties. Guest members need to be proposed by an existing owner member or submit a request to The Gilt Club’s membership committee through thegiltclub.com
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City Social
Keeping the Epicure nourished with the latest launches and culinary crazes
Review Merchants Tavern, EC2
Britain and Europe working in perfect culinary harmony wORDS: David taylor
On top of running Murano, Café Murano and Hartnett Holder & Co., British chef Angela Hartnett operates Merchants Tavern in Shoreditch. Merchants, located in a Victorian warehouse and former apothecary, is run by head chef Neil Borthwick. Borthwick is actually Hartnett’s partner – the couple having met while both working at The Connaught – and has spent time at the three Michelin-star La Maison Pic (opened by Anne-Sophie Pic within Ten Trinity Square last year). There are different dining options at the venue, just off Great Eastern Street, depending on how formal you’d like your evening to be – although all options come with a modicum of cosy comfort. The bar is a raucous affair, with toasted sandwiches, charcuterie and beer on tap. The private Storeroom is perfect for special events, and when booked comes equipped with an analogue stereo system and turntable with a library of classic records. In between the bar and Storeroom is the main dining room, with the further option of the kitchen counter, both serving an accomplished and wholesome
menu of European favourites and British classics. We tried two types of oyster: served fried and in their shells, traditional style. Both were excellent. We’d heard good things about the lemon sole with spinach, capers and parsley, and while the dish was on the small side, the fish was delicately prepared and full of flavour. I chose the Cornish red chicken with creamed potato and a healthy kick of kale, the rich sauce leaving a pleasing afterglow. To round things off, we went for Merchants’ take on the Paris-Brest, created in 1910 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Paris-Brest-Paris bicycle race. This wheel-shaped choux pastry and praline cream dessert may be archetypally French, but Merchants does a fine job at making the dish its own; so too with the bean-to-bar chocolate mousse swimming in pouring cream. You can reserve a table at Merchants Tavern via WhatsApp. Modern booking for modern cooking. Charlotte Road, merchantstavern.co.uk
The bar is a raucous affair, with toasted sandwiches, charcuterie and beer on tap
Merchants Tavern
Dublin charm
Restaurant and Irish bar Nuala promises daily live music, food cooked over a fire pit and plenty of whiskey nualalondon.com
FOOD & DRINK
New & noteworthy Londrino, SE1
On the sleepy street of Snowsfields, Londrino is the latest restaurant to be influenced by the food and drink of Portugal. Chef Leandro Carreira has worked at venues such as Lyle’s and Koya, but his new venture is informed by his childhood in Leiria. There’s an emphasis on seafood, with plates of Bulhão Pato clams and octopus with red pepper miso, and the wine list focuses on small producers from the Iberian peninsula. 36 Snowsfields, londrino.co.uk Credit: Yousef Eldin
Koya City, EC4
Craft Beer Rising, E1
programme, from London and further afield. Highlights include Prairie Fire BBQ, London’s only traditional Kansas City BBQ, Sheffield’s ‘dipped pork BBQ and gravy shack’ Salty Loins, with a good selection of vegan street food and brews. Cheese expert Paxton & Whitfield is also on hand to offer a selection of cheeseboards, catering for the growing culinary trend of pairing beer with cheese. 22-24 February, Brick Lane, craftbeerrising.co.uk
The Bloomberg Arcade just keeps getting better. Another addition to the new food hub is Koya City, the second Koya site after Soho’s original café-style Japanese restaurant. The new 60-seater noodle bar trades in simple, traditional Japanese dishes, such as tonkatsu (breaded aged pork loin) and crispy fried prawn heads. Breakfast is served from 7am on weekdays. Think English breakfast udon with egg, bacon and shiitake mushrooms, or a hearty serving of kippers, poached egg and butter rice. 10-12 Bloomberg Arcade, koya.co.uk
The UK’s biggest craft beer festival returns to Brick Lane and the Old Truman Brewery for its sixth edition. This year, the festival is expanding from 8,000 to 12,000 attendees across the three days, with a wider range of international brews. A staggering 175 of the world’s best breweries are showcasing their wares, alongside a good cider selection, and a new street food
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FOOD & DRINK
The Ritz Club
Join the Club How membership of a concierge company can boost your career Words: Jim Corrie
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oncierge services have evolved. No longer relegated to hotel lobbies or restricted to organising dry-cleaning pick-ups, it is a roving industry that caters to members earning significantly more than the average consumer. These days specialisation is key, with some concierges able to help their members to achieve avenues of social life that corporate warriors are often too timepoor to pursue. They can even give you the leg up you need to impress your employer, colleagues and clients. Here’s how…
Last-Minute Table to Close the Deal
Getting the right reservation can be crucial to impressing a date, and equally helpful in spoiling your colleagues or clients to raise your stock, so to speak. It can also be a big influence in sealing the deal. Tim Badham formerly worked at Merrill Lynch and has run Innerplace concierge company for the past 15 years. He remarks that “there are usually ten or so restaurants that have The Ritz Club
crème-de-la-crème status in London, but they do change over time. These include classics like Le Gavroche, Scott’s and Zuma through to celebrity-friendly hotspots like Chiltern Firehouse and Sexy Fish. However, the table should be matched to your client. If he or she is a follower of modernist gastronomy: The Clove Club or Lyle’s. A fashion-forward jetsetter? Isabel or Spring.” Some of the larger concierge companies offer large restaurant teams. However, with so many members it can be difficult to accommodate them all. Smaller, specialist companies often have better access and the ability to offer more personalised recommendations. Private dining is also a crucial requirement for many corporate clients – only the right room will do.
Tapping the Right People for a Private Club Membership
Navigating the vicissitudes of a membership application at some of the more exclusive private clubs can feel akin to applying for a spot in a top university. But even the most adept applicants are often turned away, not having the proper contacts to get the nod. Concierge companies can often assist in this matter and touch base with top members or club staff to stack the deck in your application’s favour. Some concierge companies even have limited, single booking access to a plethora of private members’ clubs, so that you can try them first to see which you are best suited to.
Securing Impossible Tickets
Strolling up the red carpet to the snap of camera shutters among famous faces is a uniquely satisfying experience. Says
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Badham: “If you want to impress, there’s nothing quite as glamorous as a film premiere, particularly if it’s for a major blockbuster such as James Bond or Star Wars. While it can be great to hire a box at a concert or football match, for personal chats and relationship building an awards ceremony is often one of the best settings.” Some are trickier than others and the most exclusive won’t be found through a simple web search.
Travel and Hotels
If you’re travelling frequently for business or pleasure, a specialist travel concierge service like Knightsbridge Circle can help link you with top hotels at global destinations and make your money go further. In the same vein, if travelling with work, it’s a good way to impress your colleagues by upgrading your hotel from the usual corporate clobber to something more personal, memorable and unique. As an added perquisite, the savings are likely to keep your employer happy.
Meeting the Right People
Some of the best business relationships and opportunities are fostered over the clinking of champagne glasses. If your concierge company throws its own members’ parties, this can be ideal. Some will go one step further to make business introductions once they get to know you better, particularly when there’s a high tier of membership that can mix together. In this way, the best concierges can wrap the roles of agent, recruiter, facilitator and confidant all into one. knightsbridgecircle.co.uk; innerplace.co.uk
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ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS
Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday destinations around the world, ski resorts in the Austrian, French and Swiss Alps, and the world’s greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art paper, measuring 97 x 65 cms.
Priced at £395 each.
Private commissions are also welcome.
Pullman Editions Ltd 94 Pimlico Road Chelsea London SW1W 8PL www.pullmaneditions.com Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 Email: georgina@pullmaneditions.com
Our central London gallery
All images and text copyright © Pullman Editions Ltd. 2018
View and buy online at w w w.pullmaneditions.com
TO READ MORE ARTICLES LIKE THIS VISIT www.luxurylondon.co.uk
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STYLE
Crockett & Jones claims that the new Cranleigh Chelsea boot is the most comfortable it’s ever produced. The low-cut boot has an unlined fore-part and the brand’s super flexible City rubber sole. crockettandjones.com
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the art of watchmaking behind the scenes at blancpain headquarters
p. 52 An Atlantic Odyssey The remote island creating a splash in the art world
p. 64 london fahion week mens the big winners from 2018’s first Fashion outing
Cross my heart
Chaumet has expanded its signature Jeux de Liens collection for Valentine’s Day with a one-off collection of lacquer love knots, inspired by traditional Chinese craftsmanship. Select from brightly coloured bracelets, pendants and single stud earrings, designed to be worn mismatched. From £850, chaumet.com
one direction
jewellery
Cupid’s arrow is refashioned by Chelsea jeweller Robinson Pelham as a single stud earring, encrusted with vibrant gemstones and diamonds. Opt for hot pink and yellow sapphires, or vivid green tsavorite. From £390, robinsonpelham.com
Words: MHAIRI GRAHAM
A cluster of colour The golden key
Give the key to your heart this month with a pendant from Tiffany & Co. Choose from lustrous gold, platinum or diamond-encrusted designs, all twinkling with hope and good fortune. From £190, tiffany.co.uk
The covetable new Harry Winston range restyles the jeweller’s signature Cluster motif with vivid sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Gemstones and diamonds are set at varying angles for a three-dimensional finish, showcasing the brand’s exceptional flair for proportions and craftsmanship. POA, harrywinston.com
Ring true
Jessica McCormack’s creations all make for timeless love tokens, but her new stacking rings have the playful edge. Heart-shaped designs are embellished with diamonds, rubies and sapphires and can be worn individually, stacked up your fingers or strung on a chain as a necklace. Heart rings from £1,900, jessicamccormack.com
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CURIO COLLECTION S T E R L I N G S I LV E R V E R M E I L W I T H S E M I - P R E C I O U S S T O N E S A N D D I A M O N D S
w w w.lola rose.co.u k
Best of British The latest creations from the brace of brands putting Britain back on the mechanical watch map
Bremont Model: 1918 Collection Functions: Chronograph, date, daynight indicator and GMT 12 hours Movement: Calibre BE-16AE, an automatic chronograph movement modified from the Swiss-made Valjoux 7750 Case: 43mm x 17.2mm: stainless steel (275 pieces), white gold (75) or rose gold (75) Water Resistance: 100 metres Power Reserve: 42 hours Strap: Alligator leather with pin buckle to complement case material
The lowdown: The Henley-onThames brand celebrates the centenary of the Royal Air Force with a trilogy of limitededition chronographs, which incorporate parts from three of Britain’s most famous fighter aircraft. What’s so special: As per Bremont’s other historically-inspired limited editions, the 1918 Collection incorporates an element of its subject matter within its construction. In this case, metal from a Bristol Blenheim, a Supermarine Spitfire and a Hawker Hurricane – all aircraft which flew during the Battle of Britain in 1940 – are used in the three propeller blades found in the watch’s rotor.
Price: From £8,495-£16,995
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Christopher Ward Model: C8 Power Reserve Chronometer Functions: Date display, seconds sub dial, power reserve indicator Movement: A hand-wound version of Christopher Ward’s Calibre SH21, with a new bridge and decorated twin barrels Case: 44mm x 11mm; black DLC steel Water Resistance: 50 metres Power Reserve: 120 hours Strap: Tiber leather; available in tan, brown or black
The lowdown: In July 2014, only a decade after launching as ‘the most affordable luxury watches in the world’, Christopher Ward announced that it had engineered its own proprietary calibre in collaboration with Swiss movement specialist Synergies Horlogères. Now, the brand builds a power reserve indicator and seconds subdial into its ‘in-house’ base calibre. What’s so special: The SH21 is the first calibre Christopher Ward has taken from the drawing board to production. The design is based on Baukastensystem principles, a modular approach that takes its name from the German word meaning ‘building blocks’. In the most prosaic terms, the movement’s 164 parts are assembled separately in blocks and then brought together.
Price: From £1,645 47
Blancpain’s manufacture in Le Sentier
where watches are made
What goes into the making of a modern mechanical timepiece and just why are they so expensive? Where better to find out than at Blancpain HQ? The oldest watchmaker of them all Words: Richard Brown
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T
he continued success of the mechanical watch industry owes much to the romantic notion that a collection of cogs, gears and springs can somehow connect our modern, around-the-clock lives to a simpler, less-frantic time. It’s a fancy reinforced by the fact that most traditional watchmakers, save for a splattering of Saxon-stationed brands, hail from Switzerland, which, testament to the marketing strategy of the country’s tourism board, we visualise as a bucolic setting chiming with cow bells and disrupted only by the long, low bellow of alphorns. A place that hasn’t moved on all that much from the pages of Heidi. And, in many ways, life in the Vallée de Joux, the beating heart of Swiss watch land, hasn’t. Water still flows from the River Orbe into Lake Joux. Cows continue to graze the valley’s sides until winter arrives and farmers are forced to make ends meet through other means. From the 16th century, one way of doing so was by handcrafting components for the watch companies that had been established in Geneva by the Huguenots (who’d fled religious persecution in France). The tradition continued into the 18th century, at which point – to sidestep a couple of centuries of horological history – several entrepreneurial individuals started centralising production processes into more verticalised operations. One of the earliest to do so was a school teacher turned watchmaker in the hamlet of Villeret. Jehan-Jacques Blancpain’s workshop was located on the second storey of his farmhouse (the inhabitants of the first floor being cows). While it is almost certainly the case that Jehan-Jacques began watchmaking prior to 1735 – for it was in this year that he recorded his occupation as ‘horologer’ on an official property registry, implying employment in the industry for some time previously – it is 1735 that modern-day Blancpain considers as its founding year. Which makes Blancpain the world’s oldest continuously-active watchmaker. In 1992, having manoeuvred its way out of the Quartz crisis under the joint ownership of Jacques Piguet, head of movement manufacturer Frédéric Piguet, and industry arriviste JeanClaude Biver, Blancpain relocated from Villeret to nearby villages Le Sentier and Le Brassus, establishing a manufacture and an art studio, respectively.
The Making of a Mechanical Timepiece In 2010, Blancpain completed its vertical integration by merging fully with aforementioned calibre specialist Frédéric Piguet, allowing the company to manufacture all of its movements in-house. The watchmaking process – Blancpain currently manufactures around 25,000 timepieces a year – begins at the Le Sentier site, home to approximately 700 employees. Components – plates, levers, bridges, discs, cogs, oscillating weights – are first cut out as rough blanks (mostly in steel and brass) by automatic presses fitted with stamping blocks. Computer numerical control (CNC) machines, accurate to the nearest micron, then mill holes into plates at the points at which other components will be attached. A single plate might have 100 milling steps. Components are then cleaned in up to 20 chemical baths. The process of making one component could take six hours. Calibres, of course, comprise hundreds of parts. Currently, Blancpain manufactures 12 of its own base movements. Whenever a new calibre is invented, the company’s on-site toolmakers may be required to create new stamping blocks to cut out new components. With the most
expensive CNC machines costing up to €20 million, and each new stamping block ranging from €30,000 to €200,000, it’s clear why only the most well-financed watch companies can lay claim to manufacturing movements totally within their own walls.
Artists at Work Built in 1770, the cherry-wood-panelled walls of Blancpain’s farmhouse facility in adjoining Le Brassus accommodate both its complicated watch department (Blancpain is the only watchmaker currently manufacturing carrousels, supercomplex rotating regulation systems similar to tourbillons) and its Métiers d’art studio. It’s here that you’ll find the company’s engravers, enamellers and other specialist artists. One watch stands to demonstrate the aptitude of this division. The one-of-a-kind The Great Wave was launched at Baselworld 2016 and took as its inspiration one of the most iconic images in Japanese art: Katsushika Hokusai’s 1830 woodblock print The Great Wave off Kanagawa. Once Christophe Bernardot, Blancpain’s master engraver, had settled on his subject matter, he was faced with the challenge of capturing the force and dynamism of the wave in just a few millimetres of watch face. How to capture a sense of power and motion in the space of a dial? In pursuit of a powerful depiction, Bernardot crafted a three-dimensional engraving in white gold. For still greater visual depth, he endowed the engraving with a patina using shakudō, an alloy of copper and gold historically used in samurai swords. Bernardot then created shadow and light through delicate polishing. The second part of Bernadot’s quest was finding the right surface material on which to attach the wave. Bernadot wanted to showcase his engraving but not upstage it. Examining a wide range of materials, he settled on a stone never previously used for a watch dial: Mexican obsidian. Its grey, moody colour, infused with subtle, extremely fine bright grains, worked to showcase the wave while capturing the dark atmosphere of a storm. Bernadot then drilled fine holes through the stone to accept the miniscule feet he’d attached on the back of the white-gold wave. All of this while Blancpain’s complicated watch division was working on a new variant of Blancpain’s eight-day 13R0 movement, modified, so as not to interfere with the wave, to display a power reserve indicator on its back. Blancpain distinguishes itself from other brands in its rejection of production line methods, favouring instead hand assembly of watches from beginning to end by a single watchmaker at his own bench, or as the brand terms it, “an individual watchmaker working on a watch from A to Z.” Should you want to customise your timepiece, a number of components – dials, case-backs, oscillating weights – can be decorated and engraved before assembly. We witnessed a range of commissions being worked on, from famous artworks, like The Great Wave, to the skylines of cities being replicated on dials. Judging by the number of carnal carvings on show, it seems Blancpain does a healthy trade in erotic engravings, too. Now that mechanical watches have become superfluous to our everyday lives, we buy into the notion that timepieces powered by a spring represent something magical. Blancpain is certainly doing its bit to legitimise this belief. While the world’s oldest watchmaker might be reliant on computer-aided milling machines for its components, it is watchmakers huddled over wooden benches inside an 18th-century farmhouse that breathe life into these miniaturised pieces of art.
The Great Wave, inspired by Katsushika Hokusai’s 1830 woodblock print The Great Wave off Kanagawa
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FOGO: An
Atlantic odyssey The island community using art and architecture to put itself on the world map Photography: Alexander Beer Stylist: Graham Cruz Model: Jake Davies Words: David Taylor
Off the coast of the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador lies Fogo Island, an outcrop 82 times the size of the City of London, but with only around 2,200 inhabitants. Exposed to the might of the Atlantic Ocean, the residents of Fogo Island have traditionally traded in fish. However, overfishing by large companies looking to take control of a dwindling population has taken this 400-year-old source of livelihood to the brink of disaster, threatening the cultural and economic practicality of most of rural Newfoundland; perhaps most of all on Fogo and the surrounding Change Islands. There is hope on the horizon, however, in the form of local social entrepreneur Zita Cobb.
Fogo Island Arts
The Shorefast Foundation, a charity founded by Cobb, funds multiple independent enterprises across Fogo Island, helping the inhabitants succeed with their own businesses in a sustainable fashion. One such initiative is Fogo Island Arts (FIA), which brings international attention and projects to Fogo and Change Islands. FIA’s 15 annual artist residencies, along with exhibitions and collaborative events in places like Berlin and Toronto, invite artists to combine contemporary art, architecture and social innovation. fogoislandarts.ca; shorefast.org
Oversized brown knitted hat, £150, DSquared2, dsquared2.com; Checked cotton sport shirt, £115, Brooks Brothers, brooksbrothers.com; Red, white and blue silk scarf, £POA, Moncler Gamme Bleu, moncler.com; Black leather and knit gloves, £175, AMI paris, amiparis.com; Patchwork quilt, approx. £1,000, Fogo Island, fogoislandshop.ca
Belted navy polo coat in mohair and wool, £1,390, E. Tautz, etautz.com; Cigar brown patterned cashmere heavy knit sweater, £1,090, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, zegna.com; Tan work trousers, £120, Carrier Company, carriercompany.co.uk; Grey wool walking socks, £17, FALKE, falke.com; ‘Chelsea 5’ boots in roughout suede, £370, Crockett & Jones, crockettandjones.com
After leaving the island for a successful career in technology, Zita Cobb returned to her birthplace in June 2013 to open the Fogo Island Inn. Her intention was to create a social enterprise to support the men and women trying to make a living in the place they call home. Designed by Canadian architect Todd Saunders, the Inn stands in modern contrast with the ancient granite rock under its stilted foundations. It has an almost flawless five-star rating on TripAdvisor, and is seen as a trailblazer in sustainable and community-focussed luxury. Local skills, unchanged for centuries, are now at the forefront of business: handwoven rugs, traditional furniture and crafted quilts are all part of the deal when staying at the Inn, and any surplus profits made by the hotel are channelled directly back into the community.
The Details Fogo Island Inn, suites from ÂŁ1,015, fogoislandinn.ca
No man is an island, entire of itself; every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main MEDITATION XVII Devotions upon Emergent Occasions, John Donne, English poet and cleric
Navy wool military coat, £1,200, and cotton military overhead shirt, £195, Kent & Curwen, kentandcurwen.com; Khaki cashmere long sleeve knit, £730, Berluti, berluti.com; Cream wool trousers, £225, BOSS, hugoboss.com; Cream hiking boots, £855, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, zegna.com
Green wool cable-knit sweater, £2,000, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, ralphlauren.co.uk; Grey ‘Hans’ loose weave shirt, £135, Norse Projects, norseprojects.com; Grey wool pleated front trousers, £POA, Caruso, carusomenswear.com; Cream hiking boots, £855, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, zegna.com
How to get there
Air Canada offers more daily flights from the UK to Canada than any other airline and flies daily from London Heathrow to Gander via St. John’s. Current return fares to Gander start at £657 (Economy) and £2,194 (Business). All fares are inclusive of taxes and are subject to change. Find out more at aircanada.com or call reservations on 0871 220 1111
Navy wool belted coat, £995, Turnbull & Asser, turnbullandasser.co.uk; White silk cashmere turtleneck sweater, £880, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, zegna.com; Fairisle knit jumper, £355, Kent & Curwen, kentandcurwen.com; Checked trousers, £410, Wooyoungmi, farfetch.com; ‘Ickenham’ boots in sand suede, £475, Belstaff, belstaff.co.uk; Large shadow messenger bag in chocolate brown nubuck, £450, Aspinal of London, aspinaloflondon.com
Wool red tartan shirt, £610, Stella McCartney, stellamccartney.com; Green mohair knitted jumper, £425, Valentino, valentino.com; Cotton military pants with waitsband adjusters, £250, Kent & Curwen, kentandcurwen.com; Reversible red leather belt, £125, S.T. Dupont, st-dupont.com; Worn throughout: Red leather wrap bracelet, £80, Miansai, miansai.com; Blue leather bracelet with Anchor closure, £55, Miansai, miansai.com
LFWM London Fashion Week Men’s A slimmed-down schedule meant that smaller-scale designers were the big winners of fashion’s first 2018 outing Words: David Taylor
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here’s a change in the air. An increasing number of heavy-hitting brands are transitioning to a single show, exhibiting men’s and women’s collections side by side at February’s (originally womenswear-only) London Fashion Week. Unfortunately, this means January’s London Fashion Week Men’s is losing out on some of the big-pull names – where JW Anderson, Burberry and Vivienne Westwood took part in previous LFWMs, all have decided to focus efforts on the February show. However, with loss comes opportunity, and the departure of some of the bigger names was a boon for a raft of plucky British designers, whose collective showing was characterised by creativity and ingenuity.
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Nicholas Daley by Ollie Adegboye
Nicholas Daley Yussef Dayes by Ollie Adegboye
If Nicholas Daley’s second NEWGEN presentation is anything to go by, the traditional catwalk show might be seeing a contender. ‘RED CLAY’, inspired by Freddie Hubbard’s 1970 soul-jazz album, focuses on tweed; its traditional beginnings and its assimilation into jazz culture. Daley collaborated with some of the UK’s best contemporary jazz artists – Mansur Brown, Yussef Dayes, Shabaka Hutchings and Alfa Mist – to put on a session, with each musician wearing the AW18 collection. Starting from two images – one of a Shetland farmer wearing a tweed baker boy hat, the other, taken 100 years later, of Miles Davis wearing the same style of headwear – Daley created a collection that is informed by his own Scottish heritage, and worked with Scottish fabric mill Lovat, knitwear company William Lockie, English hatmaker Christys’ and Northampton shoemaker George Cox.
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British designers basked in the creative space left by the big brands
What We Wear AW18 presentation
creative director Delphine Ninous at Belstaff AW18 Presentation
Belstaff
Granted, 94-year-old Belstaff isn’t what you’d call a small British brand. However, 2018 sees the 70th anniversary of the four-pocket Trialmaster jacket, originally designed to protect against the elements at the Scottish Six Day Trial. At LFWM, Belstaff celebrated its most famous design with an exhibition of Trialmasters through the years, leading creative director Delphine Ninous to look into English subcultures for Belstaff ’s AW18 collection. The result was a dual-gender collection, full of influences from mods, rockers, punks and skins, all unique cultures, but all connected by the common thread of customised Belstaff pieces.
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What We Wear
Tinie Tempah’s fledgling brand has gathered a strong group of admirers in the little time it’s been a fixture on the LFWM agenda. This season, Tempah has been inspired by London’s workforce and the uniforms seen across the capital: the DLR operator, the window cleaner and the construction worker. A pared-back collection with an understated colour palette of khaki, grey, navy and black combines with safety neon orange and reflective strips to make the uniform individual. Technical fabrics like cargo, nylon and coated cotton give the collection a utilitarian feel, but others such as soft knits add comfort. What We Wear has also paired with Amsterdambased Filling Pieces to release a collection of footwear along the same aesthetic.
Tinie Tempah
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Daniel W. Fletcher During the show, The City Magazine sat down with young British designer Daniel W. Fletcher, talking Europe, his rapid rise to fashion stardom and mentoring Antonio Banderas clockwise from left: SS18 by Thomas Ramshaw; Daniel W. Fletcher by Josh Fray; AW18 by Nick Thompson
Fletcher graduated in 2015, with his debut collection picked up immediately
STYLE
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couple of years out of design school, and Daniel W. Fletcher is already considered one of the brightest young British designers. After his SS17 campaign ‘STAY’, a commentary on Britain’s EU referendum, Fletcher has become known for his socially and politically charged collections, including shows on the NHS and London’s rent crisis. In between presentations in Paris, he discusses his grandmother’s influence, British style, and the importance of international collaboration to the creative process. How did you get into fashion? I studied menswear design at Central Saint Martins and graduated in 2015, which is when I started my label. I launched it off the back of my graduate collection which was picked up by Opening Ceremony. The whole thing was pretty fast after I finished my degree – having worked for some other brands already I was considering my options, but when the opportunity to have my own collection in a store came up it was impossible to say no. ‘STAY’ was a plea to remain in the EU. How will leaving affect the fashion world? I think one of the saddest things about the UK leaving the EU is the loss of this creative talent pool we currently have access to; I benefitted massively from being able to intern for Lanvin and Louis Vuitton in Paris while I was a student and it is sad to think that this is an opportunity that future generations may now not have. Did you always set out to make collections with a political or social message? It isn’t something I set out to do but the two years that have passed since I started the label have been particularly turbulent politically and it has felt natural for me to want to talk about the issues affecting the world we live in. I think if you have a platform you should use it for something positive. Have time in Paris and your northern upbringing informed your work? Absolutely. I don’t think I am particularly ‘London’ actually. My designs are very British – I look at a lot of British heritage in my research – but I want give these traditional references a contemporary twist. This season I took a classic oxford shirt and gave it a drawstring hem and contrast binding: it’s quite subtle but it still feels new. I think this subtlety is something I picked up in Paris. Who have been your main influences? My grandmother has been an important figure in my creative life. She was an art teacher, and as a child I used to go to her house and she would teach me to paint: my house now is full of her paintings. In fashion I have been fortunate enough to work under some incredible creative directors: JW Anderson, Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton and Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin all made a great impression. You were shortlisted for the 2017 LVMH Prize. How big was this for you, personally and professionally? It was a huge honour for me to be nominated. Having only set up my label the year before, to be considered for such a prestigious award alongside designers whom I looked up to and respected was an honour. Then to be
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clockwise from above: SS18 by Thomas Ramshaw; AW18 by Nick Thompson; SS18 by Thomas Ramshaw
given the chance to present my collection to the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour was pretty surreal. I documented my time there with Polaroids and now whenever I look through them it is like I have been to Madame Tussauds. Where do you see the future of LFWM? There is a really strong sense of community in the London menswear scene – there are fewer egos. I even do my casting with another designer, Edward Crutchley. We are friends and we use the same casting director, so it makes sense for us to combine and it means we actually get to see each other which doesn’t normally happen in the leadup to a fashion week. LFWM has changed a lot in recent seasons, with brands combining men’s and women’s and also mixing up the way they show collections, which I think is a good thing. I like that people are finding their own way of doing things and I am definitely open to other ways of getting my collection out there. Apparently you mentored Antonio Banderas at Central Saint Martins! Was he a good student? I did! He was working on a collaboration and wanted to learn about fashion beforehand, so he came to CSM for six weeks over one summer and they asked me to come back and teach him. They were some of the most fun weeks of my life! He is such a fantastic man and so eager to learn. He was pretty good, too: we made shirts, did life drawing, went to fabric fairs. He has such a positive attitude towards life. We could all do with being more like Antonio. What next for Daniel W. Fletcher? Having just shown my AW18 collection I am now in Paris presenting it to the buyers so will start producing that in the next couple of weeks. Then I have some store projects for SS18 coming up too. I have just done a window installation for Tom Greyhound in Paris and have another for Liberty in London soon, then I am planning to do a couple of collaborations this year which I am looking forward to getting started on.
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H a b e r da sh er Street Having recently celebrated its 40th anniversary, Drake’s reveals the secret to producing the perfect tie Words: David Taylor
STYLE
T
ies are in. At least, it seems that way, judging by the success of Drake’s. Founded four decades ago by Michael Drake, the haberdasher started out making scarves and shawls for boutiques and tailors. It was when Drake decided to widen his remit to ties and pocket squares that the brand really took off. In 2010, after more than a decade working closely with Drake, Michael Hill, designer at Drake’s, and Mark Cho, founder of Hong Kong menswear retailer The Armoury, took over the company, with Hill becoming creative director. Since then, Drake’s has become much more than an accessories producer, with its own seasonal collections and recognisable aesthetic. In April 2013, Drake’s moved its tie factory to No. 3 Haberdasher Street, a road surely impossible to beat in terms of suitability. Before moving there, from previous premises in Garrett Street, the company’s warehouse and offices were in separate buildings to the factory itself. Today, orders come in downstairs and are relayed immediately up the exposed-brick staircase to the factory floor. The design studio opens out onto the rows of expert manufacturers, meaning any last-minute changes are only a shout away. On the left-hand side of the factory is the archive wall; thousands of samples of varying fabrics, in every colour and texture under the sun. Each tie is made by hand. During our visit, there were only two sewing machines in sight. The tiemaking process is the same as it’s always been, some of Drake’s staff having worked there for 30 years. Times change, but attention to detail is something that will stick around at Drake’s for as long as people wear ties.
Orders are relayed immediately to the factory floor
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How to make a Drake’s tie: Manually check each roll of cloth for any inconsistencies. It takes time, but better to iron out flaws now than have to deal with them further down the line. Lay out the cloth for cutting, with the pattern at 45 degrees – known as cutting on the bias. Once cut, join the blade, neck and tail of the tie together and insert the tipping – the fabric covering the exposed back of the tie. Make sure the point is perfect, as it’s liable to open up. Next is the slipping stage, where the fabric is folded around the interlining. Interlining creates and maintains the structural integrity of a tie. Once folded, a single piece of thread is hand-stitched underneath the folds, giving the tie the ability to recover its shape. Steam and press the tip to give it shape, hand-stitch loops and labels, and complete one last quality control check. The whole process takes hours and includes the work of 20 people. Good things come to those who wait.
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Who wants to live
forever
?
Once the realm of science fiction, our future can now be mapped out by geneticists – in the knowledge that being forewarned is forearmed
promotion
A
sk anyone what they would wish for most in the world and in all likelihood, they would say a long and healthy life. A City worker who may work all hours for a big bonus would readily forego the latest Ferrari for 10 more years on the planet, and any parent would say their dream is to live long enough for a cuddle with their great-grandchildren. And yet, until recently, all any of us could do was to try to maintain a healthy lifestyle and simply hope for the best. Now, one London-based medical company is offering its clients the chance to take more control over their future health, thanks to sophisticated DNA decoding. Many of us will have seen adverts for online or shop-bought DNA testing, promising to discover anything from food allergies to which part of the world our ancestors lived in. But for a full and informed picture of your future health, Elite Medicine, based on London’s Harley Street, is leading the way. The team, comprising founders professor Phil Beales, doctor Chiara Bacchelli and professor Nick Lench, boasts some of the world’s leading experts in genetic profiling. “There is a huge difference between what we offer here at Elite Medicine and some of the other postal and online services for DNA testing,” Beales explains. “The most well-known brands only test a tiny fraction – 0.02 per cent to be precise – of the genetic markers we look at. Instead, we study and analyse three billion bases of DNA stretching across all our 22,000 genes. This information can provide valuable insights into how one might respond to hundreds of medicines as well as an individual’s risk of certain diseases. Armed with this information, we work closely with the client to help keep their health in check. “Our service gives the most comprehensive guide to our clients’ health and offers an ongoing health partnership working with health and lifestyle professionals.” But of course with genetic testing comes the risk that the profiling can show up a likelihood of developing illnesses such as heart disease or certain types of cancer. The test can also analyse the genes for breast and ovarian cancer (BRCA1/BRCA2), which Angelina Jolie had and took preventative measures against. Beales adds: “It is vital that any clients deciding to undergo the test are aware and informed. We take the consultations and counselling we offer very seriously – both before the test is done and when the results come back. I need to be sure that clients are aware and prepared to cope with their results. It is very rare that we have had to give clients bad news, but it is possible. “Prior to the test we spend a great deal of time talking and taking detailed medical histories. When we receive the results we discuss them at length and provide a comprehensive report that patients can share with their doctor or healthcare provider,” says Beales. “It’s possible that with earlier intervention, regular medical tests and the knowledge of how patients will
How DN A te s t i ng at E l ite Med ici ne work s DNA contains all the information that makes us unique. From your DNA, Elite Medicine can reveal your risk of developing certain diseases and your response to certain medicines. Following a blood sample or mouth swab, your personal genome report from your DNA will be comprehensively evaluated to compile a one-time catalogue of your genetic blueprint. The report will identify genetic markers linked to lifechanging conditions. Key health indicators will be used to guide the most appropriate health assessment for you, taking into account your medical and family history. Using this genetically enhanced health data, Elite Medicine can recommend any further diagnostic tests that may be required. Based on your health assessment and genome information, Elite Medicine will then tailor a personalised healthcare plan to your needs. Importantly, it will also offer clear evidence-based information in a face-to-face session with a doctor. The report additionally provides a comprehensive guide to an individual’s responses to commonly prescribed drugs, ensuring doctors are aware of what will work best for their patient. The personal report is for life. As part of your Elite membership, the company continues to partner with clients and offers reassessment and refreshment of healthcare plans when needed.
“Some diseases could be averted altogether by simple lifestyle changes”
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promotion
respond to certain medicines, some diseases can be averted altogether. Making certain lifestyle changes is one of the most simple yet empowering routes a client can go down. However, Beales explains that there are some diseases that could be carried by a parent and passed onto children that clients should be aware of, like cystic fibrosis. “At Elite Medicine, we often consult with couples who are looking to start a family and want to know if there are any risks posed by passing on, or combining, their genes. Often they are reassured by the results,” he says. Co-founder Bacchelli is equally optimistic about the benefits of DNA testing. “With the rapid pace of advancement in genetic therapies it is our mission to provide the most accurate and evidence-based information for our clients,” she says. “It truly can make a real difference and it’s a privilege to be able to work with individuals to help them lead longer, healthy lives.”
DNA FACTS Every human being shares 99 per cent of
their DNA or genome with everyone else Genes are the functional unit of DNA and code for all our physical characteristics, growth and development Each human has roughly 22,000 genes in their genome We pass on 50 per cent of our genome to our children If you put all the DNA molecules in the body end to end, the DNA would reach from the earth to the sun and back more than 600 times Human DNA is 98 per cent identical to the DNA of chimpanzees and 50 per cent identical to the DNA of bananas
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The Elite Medicine team. From left: Phil Beales; Nick Lench; Chiara Bacchelli
A new client’s experience by Charles Johnson “I’ll admit I almost cancelled my appointment with Elite Medicine when my results would be revealed. Did I really want to know my medical future? “But 90 minutes later I emerged from its doors onto Harley Street, armed with my personal report and a determination to lead a healthier life. “I’d not received any drastically bad news but there were some elements I should be aware of as I get older and some markers that mean I should continue to have regular health checks. “The whole testing process was remarkably easy – and I found the knowledge I gained both before the test and after it truly fascinating. The doctors take huge care to ensure they have a full picture of your medical history and discuss any elements of your health that you find worrisome. “It is nerve-wracking going to get your results, but in my mind it is always so much better to be forewarned. “Knowledge is, as they say, power.”
Elite Medicine, 9 Harley Street, W1G 9QY 020 3488 0535 info@elitemedicine.co.uk elitemedicine.co.uk
lu x u ry lon don.co.u k
Luv. Nordic elegance. The design of Cecilie Manz‘ bathroom series Luv combines Nordic purism and timeless, emotional elegance. Soft shapes follow a stringent geometry. The result is a new unique design language with precise, clear and ďŹ ne edges. For more information please visit www.duravit.co.uk or contact info@uk.duravit.com
UK CanaryWharf_210x297.indd 1
21.12.17 14:31
book tickets today Saturday 3rd February CANADA SQUARE PARK, CANARY WHARF, E14 5AB
London's first barre class on ice is coming to Canary Wharf
icerinkcanarywharf.co.uk ICERINKCANARYWHARF
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£38pp includes hour-long class and Botanical Brunch at luxury D&D Restaurant Plateau
out of
OFFICE
On the road with Lamborghini’s rear wheel drive-only Huracán LP 580-2 Spyder, p.80.
p. 78
front seat the latest launches from t h e au to m o b i l e wo r l d
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blast from the past the resurrection of triumph’s Bonneville Bobber
Franklin D. Roosevelt The people’s president who humanised america
the latest launches from the automotive world
The Last Defender It was a tragic day when, in 2016, Land Rover ceased production of its most famous model, the Defender, following 67 years of continuous production. Yet all is not lost. Unveiled last month, the limited-edition Land Rover Defender Works V8 roars into life to celebrate 70 years since the Defender’s forebear, the Land Rover Ninety, was first launched. Taking design cues from the original 1979 Series III Stage 1 V8, the new Defender Works V8 is the most powerful and fastest version that the marque has ever, and possibly will ever, produced. “It’s fitting that we’ve been able
to release the full potential of the iconic Defender, whose much-loved shape remains synonymous with Land Rover, 70 years since it was seen in public for the first time,” says Tim Hannig, director of Jaguar Land Rover Classic. “We knew the demand was there for a powerful and fast Defender; the Land Rover authenticity is the ultimate finishing touch for discerning clients purchasing these collector’sedition Defenders.” Both 90 and 110 derivatives will be made in this 150-model run, with prices starting from £150,000. landrover.co.uk
Engine: 5.0 Litre, naturally-aspirated V8 Power: 400bhp
Front Seat
0-60mph: 5.6 seconds
return to Blighty McLaren was the first to introduce carbon fibre to Formula One, back in 1981, and has since been one of the material’s leading exponents. Modern McLaren prides itself on the lightweight, carbon-fibre monocoque chassis of its models. Yet until now, all of these frames have been produced in Austria. Unveiled last month, the new McLaren Composites Technology Centre in Sheffield will be the brand’s first factory outside of Woking, and will see all carbon fibre development and manufacture take place in Britain. At a cost of £50million, the centre is a significant investment from McLaren Automotive, which only launched its first production car eight years ago. The centre, which will be fully functional in 2019, was opened by the brand’s latest offering, the £750,000 McLaren Senna track car (pictured), which christened the factory by performing a series of doughnuts. cars.mclaren.com
The most talked about cars of the detroit motor show 2018
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt
Lexus LF1-Limitless Concept
2019 Mercedes-Benz G-Class
An ode to the original 1968 Ford Mustang driven by Steven McQueen in Bullitt, the all-new Ford Mustang Bullitt limited-edition celebrates 50-years since the iconic film was released. It will also be the most powerful Mustang ever produced, with 475bhp coming from its 5.0-litre V8. As a nod to McQueen himself, the Bullitt will only be available in the original Dark Highland Green or Shadow Black. ford.co.uk
The new luxury crossover SUV from Lexus caused a storm when it was unveiled, with many coining it the future in luxury SUV style and engineering. With a rose gold exterior, and plied with infotainment systems and screens, it verged on garish, yet its design left most critics and attendees wildly impressed.
Launched in 1979, the G-Class was the ultimate high-performing, terrain-dominating SUV. Since then, its iconic style has become a staple on city roads, but for all the wrong reasons. The 2019 edition harks back to the original style while furthering its off-road domination. The first iteration will be the G550, which will feature a mammoth 4.0-litre twin-turbocharged V8, and will hurl out a staggering 416bhp. mercedes-benz.co.uk
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lexus.co.uk
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e c n a m o R d n i w l r i h W
PROPERTY
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Jerem
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Lam borg hini’s sligh ter H urac but s án Spyde he’s g r ot th might b e e per form rear-whe ance e and p l drive on ly erson ality , to ste al yo ur he art lu x u ry lon don.co.u k
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S the vitals Price: From £178,000 Engine: 5.2-litre V10, 580bhp 0-60mph: 3.6 seconds Max speed: 199mph Economy: 23.7mpg (combined)
ometimes less is more. That’s the case with Lamborghini’s latest Spyder. The rear-wheel drive version of the Huracán may lack the remarkable grip of its pricier sibling but ultimately it’s a lot more entertaining beast. The Huracán LP 580-2 Spyder, to use its official name, costs £20,000 less than the all-wheel drive model. It features slightly wider front air intakes and new style brakes – otherwise I doubt even a Lamborghini aficionado would spot the difference. Launch both models down a racetrack, however, and it won’t take long to tell them apart. Admittedly, the RWD model is 30bhp down on the all-wheel drive Spyder but then it’s also lighter – and much more entertaining. If ever a car was built to skid, this is it. The LP 580-2 is a purist’s dream, partly because the weight distribution has been shifted slightly towards the rear. The suspension is more supple and the steering recalibrated. Altogether that equals a lot of fun. No matter which Huracán Spyder you opt for, the crazy, angular styling and roar from that V10 engine make the raging bull a real crowd-puller. Don’t expect to go anywhere without being jeered,
cheered or videoed on a smartphone – this is not a car for shrinking violets. Yes, Lamborghini is part of the Volkswagen Group and yes, the Huracán is very closely related to the Audi R8. But I drove both cars back-to-back and the response couldn’t have been more different. The Huracán is the big, brash brother who gatecrashes every party and steals the leading lady. On a day-to-day basis, you could argue that the Lambo is as practical as any supercar. Usually, that means not very practical at all, but there’s room to squeeze two weekend bags under the bonnet. With the roof down you can still hold a conversation with your excited passenger. That’s partly due to a pair of ‘ears’ on each side of the headrest that keep the wind out of the cabin. The top itself disappears in 17 seconds and you complete the whole operation at speeds of up to 31mph. Inside, the RWD Spyder has the same bonkers dashboard as every other model. A panel of buttons on the centre display is straightforward enough, although like the R8, the Huracán swaps the central infotainment screen for a virtual dashboard. Just starting a Huracán is a performance, thanks to a red, fighter jet-style button cover.
MOTORING
BEST OF THE REST
01 Reverse is a pop-up, bridge lever and there are three driver modes to ponder on the steering wheel. Opt for ‘Strada’ for general everyday use – send the exhaust pipes popping in ‘Sport’. Everything makes perfect sense, apart from the indicator switch and windscreen buttons on the face of the steering wheel. Impossible to find in the daytime, at night scrabbling around for either is downright dangerous. Otherwise the glovebox really was designed for a pair of gloves and not much else. There isn’t a cubbyhole or door bin big enough to take a small bottle of water. In fact, it’s a bit of an issue just trying to find somewhere to put the key. All these design issues pale into insignificance after an hour or two behind the flat-bottomed steering wheel. It’s insanely good fun, especially when compared to a Ferrari 488 GTB. There’s something of the maverick about the Lamborghini. It’s radically different, slightly unpredictable and totally unmistakable for anything else. As guilty driving pleasures go, the Huracán Spyder is just a bit naughtier than most.
Bentley Continental GT Convertible Price: From £154,000 Engine: 4.0-litre V8, 507bhp 0-60mph: 5.0 seconds Max speed: 207mph Economy: 25.9mpg
02 Rolls-Royce Dawn Price: From £273,240 Engine: 6.6-litre V12, 563bhp 0-60mph: 4.9 seconds Max speed: 155mph Economy: 20mpg
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lamborghini.com
Aston Martin Vanquish S Volante Price: From £199,995 Engine: 6.0-litre V12, 595bhp 0-60mph: 3.5 seconds Max speed: 201mph Economy: 21mpg
04 Audi R8 Spyder
Price: From £118,455 Engine: 5.2-litre V10, 540bhp 0-60mph: 3.8 seconds Max speed: 197mph Economy: 24mpg
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The soft-top supercars commanding the attention of smartphone cameras everywhere
Bentley Continental GT Convertible
A very different prospect to the other supercars tested here – not least because the GTC has four seats. The badge appeal of a Bentley almost outweighs the extra bulk of this heavyweight grand tourer, more suited to long-distance travel than the rest. It’s still no slouch – and you can up the power with the incredible W12 model. The luxurious cabin is refined and comfortable, although I found the sat nav system a little sluggish. Supremely elegant from any angle, the Continental is still starting to feel its age.
Rolls-Royce Dawn
For sheer sense of occasion, nothing comes close to the Dawn. Smaller than the Phantom, it’s also aimed at a more youthful audience. From my experience of five days on board, expect plenty of attention. The outrageously glamorous bodywork wraps around a technological masterclass – from the silky-smooth V12 engine, to the gloriously refined cabin. The roof folds away in 22 seconds, although it’s almost as quiet in the cabin top down as up. Rear-hinged doors make access to the back seats easy, while the view down the bonnet is breathtaking.
Aston Martin Vanquish S Volante
The very latest Vanquish Volante looks more powerful and muscular than the model it replaces. Note the carbon fibre styling detail and the quad exhaust system protruding from the rear bumper. Aston’s flagship convertible is just on the road and one of the best improvements I found is a retuned eight-speed gearbox, with faster shifts. It really sharpens up the performance – especially at higher speeds. An improved air intake manifold has helped boost the bhp. Quite possibly the most beautiful convertible on the market – not necessarily the most user-friendly.
Audi R8 Spyder
Audi has just launched a V10 Plus version of the R8 Spyder with 601bhp but most of us will find this ‘standard’ 540bhp model more than adequate. It’s been called the best, everyday supercar on sale – one to rival even the Porsche 911 Cabriolet. What’s certain is the R8 is a pleasure to drive in any circumstance. It’s agile, poised and has one of the best engines on the market. I loved the virtual cockpit, displaying everything on a dash binnacle. It dispenses with the need for an ugly centre screen and is simple to use. Audi owns Lamborghini, but the R8 has a totally different character to the Huracán. It’s also almost £60,000 cheaper – although would you rather pick up the keys to a Lamborghini, or an Audi?
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Blast from the Past Triumph hopes to capitalise on the customisation trend with its latest lifestyle offering. So, is the new Bonneville Bobber a case of presentation over performance? Words: Hugh Francis Anderson
MOTORING
I
n recent years, Triumph has risen from the ashes to become one of the most successful modern motorcycle brands in the world, and one that garners an evergrowing fan base. As the world of custom motorcycles continues to expand, with people searching far and wide for the next machine to modify, it is brands like Triumph that proffer a modern take on vintage classics for the millennial City chap to make bespoke. We’ve had the reborn Triumph Bonneville, the café-racer-inspired Triumph Thruxton, and now we have the Triumph Bobber, a homage to post-war design, but with an altogether modern performance band. When the Bobber arrives, I’m surprised by just how different it is from everything else on the market. The concept of having a wide-panned solo seat, exposed rear mudguard and an upright riding position is certainly unique, and a serious statement by the design team; and it works superbly. It’s a great-looking motorcycle, and one that catches the attention of everyone walking down the road as I haphazardly throw my riding gear on. Depressing the starter button, I immediately feel the pistons of the upgraded 1200cc parallel twin engine ignite, a sublime grumble bellows out of the Vance & Hines exhausts, and the entire machine vibrates, ready to hit the roads of London. As an addition to the ever-expanding list of heritage-inspired models, which includes the new Bonneville T100, T120 and Street Twin, pumped out of the factory in Hinckley, Leicestershire, the Bobber is a pure statement, and one that is sure to become an icon. You see, in an industry dominated by modern classics, Triumph is the first to push the boundaries of its design. Yes, you can pick up other Bobber-esque models, the Harley-Davidson Forty-Eight or the Moto Guzzi V9 Bobber, for example, but they’re still a little tame; you know from the outset that this is the Triumph Bobber, and there’s something charming in that knowledge. What also strikes me is its size; it’s compact. But this is to be expected from a single-seater bike, and as I begin to amble around London, I’m surprised by just how comfortable it is. The riding position is suitably upright, none of that hyper-compressed knee positioning here. You also feel entirely stable, so much so that within minutes I’m accelerating into corners to see how low I can get. I never expected this from a Bobber – they’re stylish, cool, if you will, but notoriously not performance machines. This one works because its proportions are spot on. Running a large 19 inch front wheel with a 16 inch rear, combined with limited ground clearance and a seat height of only 690mm should simply not work, but it does. This is partially thanks to the ever-improving ABS technology – which instantaneously gives you more confidence, alongside greater technical performance – and partially thanks to its small size and light weight; a baby at just over 200kg. What this means is pure joy from the get-go, and perfectly sized for the streets of London. Yet don’t let its size fool you, there’s still plenty of oomph in this bike for the thrill-seeker. The engine delivers a 10 per cent increase in power and torque at 4,500rpm from its donor bike, the Bonneville T120, and has enough gumption in the low end to propel you away from the nonchalant black cabbies who are forever determined to catch you off guard. And when you inevitably head out of London for some serious riding, you’ll not be disappointed either. It has the
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capacity to really throw you about (in a good way), and you’re only limited by your riding style. Naturally, you can’t take corners in the same way that you would on a superbike, but you don’t need to in order to have fun. In fact, with the minimal ground clearance, you’ll often find the foot-pegs scraping the road. This may infuriate some riders, but I found it wholeheartedly fun. For longer motorway rides, it also offers the latest technology, fitted covertly into its slimline body, namely cruise control, which on long journeys is a wrist-saver. It also has Rain and Road modes, so the bike electronically adjusts the throttle and brake reactions to keep you safer when conditions change, and an advanced electronic system that proffers a slip-assist clutch and greater throttle response. As time moves on, we’re beginning to see that the technological capacity of motorcycles is on the rise, with more and more riderassisted gizmos hidden stealthily inside the bike. The sudden injection of fresh motorcyclists has finally given manufacturers the boost they needed to evolve, and it’s surely a good thing. I suppose you could call the Bobber a selfish motorcycle, and that’s not to be taken as a negative. When you buy this bike, you do so in the knowledge that you’re buying a single-seater, capable of only transporting yourself and a few necessities (in optional
pannier bags). For me, this is a wonderful notion. Realistically, few will buy this as their everyday hack. No, this will be bought for fun, for long summer weekend rides, to head off for a few hours of solitude and motorcycling bliss. But for this reason, I wonder if the £10,600 price tag may deter a few customers, and that’s before you start playing around with the list of 150 optional extras Triumph produces to feed its custom-hungry clientele. Having said this, it is a motorcycle that I would buy, should my garage space allow it. I’m doubtful that the Bobber will ever surpass the iconic status of the ‘original’ Bonneville, and I’m not sure that’s what Triumph wants. This is a pure statement piece, a bike thrown into the gauntlet of the ‘modern classic motorcycle scene’ to see how customers and competition will respond. So the Triumph Bobber is here, bringing with it a new age of post-war-inspired motorcycle design to the battleground. I can’t help but wonder where this small but influential scene is going next, but I’m excited to find out. 2017 Bonneville Bobber, Triumph Motorcycles, from £10,600, triumphmotorcycles.co.uk
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FDR The only American president to be elected four times, Franklin D. Roosevelt came from the highest echelons of American society. Yet during the Great Depression the polio-sufferer became the foremost champion of those most in need. During today’s era of division, a new biography by Robert Dallek shines a light on a president who really did make America great again Words: JACK WATKINS
A
s the beleaguered Trump presidency continues on its wildly unpredictable and divisive path, it serves to be reminded of a time when America was led by a man who seemed to represent the soul of his nation, and to stand for the common wellbeing of humanity. Yet when Robert Dallek was writing the final words of his biography of Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Franklin D. Roosevelt: A Political Life, with the result of the 2016 election still unknown, he could hardly have imagined how timely a reminder of the values of decency in political leadership his book would provide. What he did know was that cynicism among Americans about their leaders was already at an all-time high. Let’s be frank, the United States is long overdue someone it can look up to, unreservedly, as President. They’ve had a longish run of mediocrities, including Obama, decent but disappointing, Bushes Snr and Jnr, neither of whom exactly had you bent double beneath the weight of their intellectual pronouncements, and Bill “I feel your pain” Clinton, who faced an impeachment charge. So, in reaching back to Roosevelt, regularly touted as the third greatest of America’s presidents – need you ask, the other two are considered George Washington and Abraham Lincoln – “and surely the most important of the 29 since Lincoln,” he has chosen about as inspirational a past occupant of the White House as you could get. As Dallek writes: “The amazing story of a man so
severely handicapped by polio who overcame his disability to take on the arduous tasks of running for president four times and mobilizing the country to struggle through the Depression and war is a saga that has become the stuff of legend.” And Dallek’s work is timely in another way. For, more than 70 years since his death, Roosevelt is in danger of becoming a remote figure from the past, his name, the facts of his life, and his achievements signifying little to a younger generation. This is not a book for lightweights. At 627 pages, it’s a proper political biography, bringing to full life the stage upon which Roosevelt acted, initially one largely restricted to America but increasingly, as he levered his fellow countrymen out of their default isolationism and into the conflict of the Second World War, a global one. Many would say the world is undergoing its biggest period of uncertainty since Roosevelt’s time, and there are certainly connections that can be made between some of the players. His presidential predecessor Herbert Hoover was the butt of vaudeville jokes for his passive reaction to the Wall Street Crash of 1929, and his inability to take decisive action as the Great Depression swept across America. Dallek’s description of Hoover as a leader “with little play of mind and a rigid temperament” is strangely reminiscent of a certain head of state on this side of the Atlantic. Just as today, there was widespread discontent
F E AT U R E
Original colour transparency of FDR taken at 1944 Official Campaign Portrait session by Leon A. Perskie, Hyde Park, New York, August 21, 1944. FDR Presidential Library & Museum
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in the 1930s over the apparent failure of democratic, centrist governments to provide answers to economic instability. Admiration in some quarters for the way dictatorships in Italy, Germany and Russia seemed better able to address the situation somehow mirrors the admiration of the likes of Trump and Nigel Farage for the ‘strong man’ rule of Vladimir Putin. Armed with the benefit of history, of course, these parallels are a little facile. The reality is that when Roosevelt first began to emerge as a potential Democrat runner for the presidency a lot of people were sceptical about his talents. It was said of his Republican cousin Theodore Roosevelt, himself a two-term president, that he had a first-class temperament, but a secondclass mind. Several observers applied the description to Franklin, one describing him as a “kind of amiable Boy Scout.” The young Roosevelt’s confident air, which some read as arrogance and vanity, was off-putting to many as well. In truth, he came from a patrician background, but he quickly developed a philanthropic interest in championing charities which helped those in greatest need, as well as the natural environment. His sensitivity to the struggles of American citizens less fortunate than he can forever be cited in rejection of the notion that someone from a wealthy background should never be considered suitable for high office because of their inability to empathise and understand what it means to be poor. “People aren’t cattle, you know,” he told one supporter of the Hoover do-nothing approach to rising unemployment. A bigger disqualification in Roosevelt’s case might have been that, aged 39 in 1921, he contracted polio which left him paralysed from the waist down for the rest of his life. “I’m not going to be conquered by this childish disease,” he repeatedly told friends, but he was terrified by the feelings of revulsion he believed people would feel towards someone so disabled. In fact, so successful was the image of strength and capability he presented to the public, only those with access to behind the scenes at the White House would have any idea just how debilitating the effect of the disease was upon him. Observers would then be taken aback by what one described as his “ghastly invalidism”, and the way he had to be scooped up like a child when being moved from one chair to another. Roosevelt began his long-term plan to run for president in 1928 on his election as governor of New York. It was in this period that he launched what would become known as his celebrated ‘Fireside Chats’, the broadcasts which projected his voice into the living rooms of the electorate. Not only was it a shrewd use of the new medium of radio to get his message across, it was a smart way of overcoming his physical limitations and establishing intimacy with voters. With his ability to speak in plain, simple terms, many listeners felt they were having a conversation with him, and over the years he found it a perfect way of conveying his progressive message, bypassing a predominantly conservative press opposed to state action to mitigate the impact of the Depression. The Hoover presidency had maintained that private charity, not government agency, was the way to ease economic distress, but Roosevelt’s success in getting a Temporary Emergency Relief Administration to fund a public works job creation scheme for the unemployed through Congress in 1931 established his national reputation as a humane leader who helped people in hard times. Such a contrast with the seemingly heartless indifference of the free-marketeering Hoover enabled him to coast to victory in the presidential election of 1932. He came into office with a worsening economy. Banks were collapsing, unemployment was at 15 million, or one in every three workers, farmers were suffering from wheat prices at 300year lows, and many families in the West Virginia and Kentucky
Roosevelt’s various measures, including unemployment insurance, the legitimisation of unions, and the support for stricken rural communities, were giant steps in humanising the American system coal-mining belts were suffering from malnutrition. Roosevelt’s New Deal measures were unprecedented in a country geared to independence, self-sufficiency and minimal interventions by central government. As well as creating federal agencies to provide relief funding for the poor, and to work to raise farm prices and income, several others were set up to organise and fund national job creation schemes. Among other programmes, a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) put unemployed men to work building dams, draining marshlands, planting trees and fighting forest fires. In its nine-year history, the CCC found work for three million men who, in a massive contribution to the American environment, planted three billion trees, created 800 state parks and 30,000 wildlife shelters, restored historic battlefields and contained scores of forest fires. Some people, the socialist H.G. Wells among them, said Roosevelt’s New Deal didn’t go far enough, but he retained the support of John Maynard Keynes, prophet of the idea of loanfinanced deficit spending through a recession to aid recovery, rather than raising taxes which sucked money out of the economy. But in 1939, after seven years of the New Deal, unemployment still stood at ten million. As Dallek says, it was the industrial mobilisation required for the Second World War that pulled America out of the Depression. Yet Roosevelt’s various measures, including unemployment insurance, the legitimisation of unions, the centrally financed electrification systems and the support for stricken rural communities, were giant steps in humanising the American system. Without the war, Roosevelt would never have been elected for unprecedented third and fourth terms of office in 1940 and 1944. His internationalism, perhaps aided by his early experiences of Europe which gave him an ease abroad many of his American contemporaries lacked, was of major value in supporting Britain in its hour of greatest need against the Nazis, and eventually in persuading his reluctant country to enter the war. Dallek’s book is no whitewash. Roosevelt was culpable in failing to advance the cause of black civil rights, and his administration’s timid response to Hitler’s persecution of European Jews are firmly in the debit column. But as Roosevelt himself said, “Better the occasional faults of a Government that lives in a spirit of charity than the consistent omissions of a Government frozen in the ice of its own indifference.” Decades on, that still remains a sound marker by which to judge our leaders. Franklin D. Roosevelt: A Political Life, by Robert Dallek, is published by Allen Lane (£30 hardback)
F E AT U R E
clockwise from left The last photograph of Roosevelt, by Nicholas Robbins, taken April 11, 1945, the day before his death; Churchill, Roosevelt, and Stalin at the Yalta Conference, February 1945; Franklin D. Roosevelt: A Political Life, by Robert Dallek; The Roosevelts with George VI and Queen Elizabeth, on the USS Potomac during the first U.S. visit of a reigning British monarch (9 June 1939), photo: Harris & Ewing; Roosevelt in 1900, at the age of 18, U.S. National Archives and Records Administration
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A doorway into one of the many buildings in Angkor Wat, Cambodia’s ‘City of Temples’. At 402 acres, it is the largest religious complex on Earth, p.94.
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around the world from the swiss alps to the beverly hills hotel
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A Country of Colour Cambodia: four decades from the fall of the Khmer Rouge
p. 98 Untamed world earth’s extraordinary final frontiers
escape the rat race with the latest in luxury travel
Around the World
Laax of Luxury
Ski season is still in full swing, and you won’t find many better destinations than Laax, voted best Swiss ski resort five years running (2013-17) and World’s Best Freestyle Resort at the recent World Ski Awards. The Riders Hotel has just reopened following a complete refurbishment and is the perfect base from which to explore 220km of pistes, as well as GALAAXY, a summit station at 2,250m that includes quirks such as a cinema, 360-degree restaurant and an old vending machine used as a toilet door. laax.com
Laax has been voted best Swiss ski resort for five years running
Rü Blanch penthouse
Hotel Ciasa Salares in Italy’s Sella Ronda ski region has expanded its boutique offering. The Rü Blanch penthouse suite has been designed by local Studio Archea to be as sustainable as possible: the interiors, floors and insulating panels are made from locallysourced wood, and lime gravel from nearby Cava Saré quarry was used in the plastering. Named after a river that runs down the nearby Monte Lavarella, Rü Blanch also has a private sauna and open-air Jacuzzi. ciasasalares.it
New & noteworthy Marilyn Monroe at Bungalow 7, 1952
Starr Luxury Cars
Start any trip in style by employing the UK’s leading luxury car hire service to take you to the terminal. Starr Luxury Cars offers the largest fleet of cars in Britain, with motors from Ferrari, Aston Martin, McClaren, Lamborghini, Bugatti and Rolls-Royce – among others. All are available for self-drive hire and chauffeur service, and can be hired across Europe: one CEO recently took friends on a tour through Monaco and St Tropez. starrluxurycars.com
Private flying
Beverly Hills Hotel
The Beverly Hills Hotel bungalows are having a makeover. Built in 1915, they became a celebrity home away from home: Elizabeth Taylor spent six of her eight honeymoons there, and Marilyn Monroe stayed in Bungalow 7 for weeks at a time. The comprehensive restoration includes soft palettes of pinks, golds and greens, and 1940s French and Hollywood Regency furniture, meaning the bungalows are back to their blonde-bombshell best. dorchestercollection.com
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JetSmarter, the app that connects members to spots on private jets over three continents and more than 50 routes, has announced new destinations from London City Airport. JetShuttle allows members to book on scheduled private flights as much as two months in advance, enabling colleagues to fly together in comfort, or even hold meetings at 40,000 feet. New destinations for 2018 include Paris, Geneva, Milan and Nice. It’s certainly a very different version of the mile high club. jetsmarter.com
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a country of colour Cambodia’s vibrant art scene was all but destroyed by the Khmer Rouge – an estimated 90 per cent of the country’s artists and intellectuals were murdered under Pol Pot’s merciless regime. Today, not only are its traditional arts and crafts being revived, but there’s a new wave of artists garnering worldwide attention Words: Sarah Gilbert
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S
ipping a cocktail in the Elephant Bar inside Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, it is hard to believe that just a few hours earlier – inspired by a striking black-and-white print by American photographer John McDermott – I’d been scrambling Indiana Jones-style over the centuriesold ruins of Beng Mealea, enveloped in tangles of roots and jungle greenery. Siem Reap’s grande dame hotel first opened its doors in 1932 to serve a new wave of affluent travellers to Indochina, and it’s preserved its French colonial charm with gently whirring ceiling fans, polished wood floors and handsome furniture, and enhanced it with contemporary comforts. Siem Reap is the jumping off point for exploring the magnificent temples of Angkor Archaeological Park, believed to be the world’s largest complex of
sacred temples. Now saffron-robed monks mingle with camera-toting tourists from around the globe, there to marvel at the dazzling architecture showcasing the Khmer Empire’s wealth and power. Angkor Wat is the jewel in the crown, built in the 12th century, with one kilometre of bas-reliefs telling tales from Hindu mythology; but it’s not the only masterpiece. The immense walled city of Angkor Thom is home to the stunning Bayon, its 54 towers each topped with colossal heads; Ta Prohm with its crumbling temples locked in the ruthless embrace of strangler figs, and the elaborate carvings of the diminutive, pink-hued Banteay Srei are all unmissable. Also unmissable is Cambodia’s Phare Circus. It’s not your average circus; there are no animals, no ringmaster and no clowns. Although the young,
Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s busy capital
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“The country is still in the process of healing. Art can help with that, acting as a bridge between its bitter history and its bright future” red-nose free performers do draw roars of laughter from the sell-out crowds for their energetic, spirited performances, as they execute seemingly impossible somersaults, tightrope walk and juggle fire. The ‘Cambodian Cirque du Soleil’ is just part of the country’s artistic revival, born from an idea in a refugee camp. Khmer culture can be traced back to the 9th century but in the 1970s, the merciless regime of the Khmer Rouge led by dictator Pol Pot not only claimed the lives of more than two million people, but tried to obliterate all traces of the country’s rich heritage. But Cambodia’s not living in the past and, almost 40 years on, the arts are thriving once more, with a new wave of native and expat artists and designers making their mark. Siem Reap is at the heart of the country’s burgeoning design scene, and it’s become as much about shopping as temple-hopping; so I joined local in-the-know Robina Hanley, on a bespoke tour to meet the people behind the contemporary galleries and stores. We stopped at Theam’s House, the home-cum-atelier of Cambodian artist and designer Lim Muy Theam, who fled from Cambodia in 1980, before studying visual art at École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Theam is passionate about finding and preserving traditional artefacts and skills, and his own work involves lacquerwork – including neon-bright Buddhas – painting and sculpture, maintaining Khmer traditions while adding a contemporary twist. I wandered through his purpose-built space with his sister Maddy, who showed me his unique private collection and introduced me to the young artisans that Theam is mentoring in his workshop, helping to breathe new life into age-old Cambodian crafts. Cambodia is also home to some of the world’s most beautiful silk and I met Madagascan-born designer Eric Raisina at his atelier, where his ethereal and colourful creations take the fabric to a new level. Taking inspiration from Asia, Africa and Europe, he’s worked with the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and Lacroix, and describes his work as ‘haute texture’. In the countryside close to Banteay Srei, I visited Golden Silk to discover the fascinating silk-making process on a private visit. Sophea Pheach returned to her Cambodian roots to work with refugees before setting up a unique silk farm specialising in a rare species of silk worm that spins an utlra-fine thread. Taking inspiration from royal fabrics and ancient techniques, every step of the intricate process is
clockwise from top Phare, The Cambodian Circus, Siem Reap; Phnom Penh from above Shanti Hesse / Shutterstock. com; Phare, The Cambodian Circus, Siem Reap; Temples in Ankor
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done by hand, from spinning and weaving to dying with natural pigments, and the results are exquisite pieces of wearable art. Then back to Raffles, where the perfect antidote to a long, hot day was a dip in the vast pool, fringed with sweetscented frangipani trees, then a trip to the spa for a relaxing massage and the traditional Khmer Herbal Wrap, fragrant with local herbs and spices, such as cinnamon, ginger and galangal. All followed by a feast of Royal Khmer cuisine, passed down through the generations at Restaurant Le Grand. I’d begun my journey through Cambodian culture just a short flight away, in the frenetic capital, Phnom Penh. It may be changing at breakneck speed but The Raffles Hotel Le Royal, built in the 1920s, remains a lemongrassscented haven of colonial sophistication, its lush gardens and pool a peaceful oasis from the tumult of tuk-tuks, motorbikes and cars that choke the streets. The Royal Palace, with its ornate, gilded architecture and diamond-encrusted buddha, and the National Museum, with its exquisite art and sculpture from archaeological sites across the country, gave me another taste of the country’s ancient splendour. Since the demise of the Khmer Rouge, Cambodians have strived to reignite traditional Khmer dance and that evening it was as if the apsaras – the heavenly nymphs from the celestial Hindu court of Indra – had stepped off the temple walls, as the classical dancers of Cambodian Living Arts delighted the audience with their graceful gestures and glittering costumes.
To try to grasp the scale of Pol Pot’s genocide, I visited Choeung Ek, one of the notorious ‘Killing Fields’, where a 40-metre-high glass stupa packed with skulls and bones stands in testament to the horror. After a sobering visit to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum – also known as S-21, a former school turned prison and interrogation centre – I meet one of its seven survivors, 76-year-old Bou Meng. Through a translator, he explained that his life was saved by his ability to paint, and he spent his incarceration producing flattering portraits of Pol Pot. Today a host of contemporary galleries are opening around the capital. Sa Sa Bassac is a non-profit, artist-run space that provides a forum for emerging artists to experiment. Founded by an artists’ collective called Stiev Selapak, the Art Rebels, and curator Erin Gleeson, the gallery puts on exhibitions of both new and established Cambodian artists. At the opening of a new exhibition, I met Chov Theanly, a self-taught artist who hails from Battambang. Tucked between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, the city was known for its intellectuals, artists and musicians, and felt the full wrath of the Khmer Rouge. Now it’s blossoming into an arts hub, with small galleries opening up and architecture tours of some of Cambodia’s best-preserved buildings, from Khmer-era timber houses to French colonial villas and striking Modernist structures from the 60s. Theanly is one of the homegrown artists enjoying international success, taking inspiration from the old masters and translating it into a Cambodian context, to confront the country’s painful past. “The country is still in the process of healing,” he told me, “and art can help with that, acting as a bridge between its bitter history and its bright future.” Back at Raffles’ Restaurant Le Royal, I indulged in the menu that Jackie Kennedy enjoyed as a guest at the Royal Palace in 1967 – succulent beef tenderloin, vanilla crème caramel – and raised a Femme Fatale, a mix of champagne, crème de fraise and a dash of Cognac created especially for her, to a new chapter in Cambodia’s history.
Fact box
The Ultimate Travel Company (020 3051 8098, theultimatetravelcompany. co.uk) tailor makes an eight-day trip to Cambodia combining Phnom Penh and Siem Reap from £2,480 per person, including three nights at Raffles Hotel Le Royal and four nights at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor; Thai Airways flights from Heathrow via Bangkok, and private transfers throughout.
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The Untamed World The places where even Google dare not tread
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Shipwreck of the Suiderkus on Namibia’s Skeleton coast
Atlas of Untamed Places is an intrepid journey through nature’s most unusual, wild, feral and extraordinary places. The compendium compiled by author Chris Fitch, senior reporter with the Royal Geographic Society, celebrates 45 wild and fascinating destinations that include remote islands, unclimbed peaks and other untouched lands Words: Chris Allsop
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“N
orth Sentinel Island.” Chris Fitch, author of The Atlas of Untamed Places, is telling me which of the extraordinary stories included in his new book he finds himself telling people most often. “It has to be North Sentinel Island.” You can understand why. North Sentinel Island, a small land mass to the west of the Andaman archipelago, several hundred miles off the coast of Myanmar, remains a remarkable example of a home to an ‘uncontacted’ people. ‘Uncontacted’ because, as soon as anyone tries to land there, they’re met with a barrage of arrows. A National Geographic documentary crew discovered this to their acute consternation – the director was even wounded in the thigh. As Fitch notes in the book: ‘Historically, Andaman Islanders (the Andamanese) have gathered a reputation for aggression towards outsiders […] the people of North Sentinel Island, commonly referred to as the Sentinelese, have maintained their opposition even into the 21st century. It is believed that they have occupied their island for the past 60,000 years’. This book is not a straightforward compilation of impassable jungles, or unconquered peaks; although you’ll find these in there, including Gangkhar Puensum, Bhutan’s highest mountain and
the world’s highest unclimbed peak thanks to an insurmountable one-two of religious sensitivity and bad weather. And neither is it a straightforward atlas in form; instead it’s a blend of text, colour maps and monochrome photography. The aesthetic choices tie the publication to the near past, when the world enjoyed a great deal more mystery than it does in the full colour present day.
Worlds within worlds
But, with tourist-friendly sites such as Yellowstone National Park and Cape Town in the contents, how to judge what is wild or tame? When asked about the criteria applied to destinations, Fitch accepts that the scope is broad, and that even a few muscled their way in on the basis of being simply irresistible. “But,” Fitch explains, “my starting point was always: is the natural world more in control than mankind?” How this thesis manifests itself is varied. Included are places where it’s been mankind’s purposeful withdrawal from a space that has reinstated nature’s control, such as the Demilitarized Zone running between North and South Korea; or the Green Line, the Cypriot buffer zone dividing the Greeks and the Turks, now mostly a wasteland of abandoned buildings overrun by a thriving herd of
mouflon – ‘a breed of tough mountain sheep (…) they were once close to extinction, but between 200 and 300 mouflon have since been counted living among [the ruins], and their total population within the Green Line is estimated at roughly 3,000.’ Those stories fall into the section entitled ‘Human Activity’ – one of six categories that corral the book’s broad scope. Other destinations, such as The Skeleton Coast – the first entry in ‘Extreme Environments’ – take the composite narrative out of the present and into the historical. Fitch records how sailors, finding themselves wrecked on Namibia’s South Atlantic coastline after attempting the treacherous southern tip of Africa ‘would look up and down the coast to find themselves ominously surrounded by some of the hundreds of ships that had suffered the exact same fate. With extreme weather conditions ranging from scorchingly hot during the day and below freezing at night, plus rainfall so desperately low that fresh water is almost impossibly scarce, their chances of survival would be spirit-crushingly slim’. This story acts, like many in the Atlas, as a reminder of the fragility of our modern advances in the face of nature’s relentlessness. But, in turn, nature’s own fragility is another thread woven into the Atlas’s whole.
Opposite: The jungle of Panama, home to the Darién Gap Above and right: The Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone National Park, USA
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It’s the profound draw of virgin wilderness that will bring many to pick up the Atlas, the chance to dream of matching the exploits of the great explorers of old Return to Eden
Fitch is explaining to me his inspiration for the book. “Living in the city made me think about nature,” he describes. “How we engage with it – physically – on a day-to-day basis.” These musings (all part and parcel no doubt of being a senior reporter at Geographical – the Royal Geographical Society’s magazine) moved him to become interested in a number of movements, with rewilding chief among them. For those who have yet to encounter this subject, rewilding is concerned with returning nature to a place where it has been removed – or indeed ‘tamed’ – by human activity such as deforestation. In the UK, rewilding has been active in the reintroduction of beavers, cranes, and pine martens, with some consideration given to reintroducing lynx into Scotland to help rein in the unfettered deer population. With Fitch’s expressed interest, it’s therefore unsurprising to find more than several instances of this phenomenon included (the Green Line in Cyprus being an example of accidental rewilding), adding a conservational twist to Fitch’s starting concept. The story of the successful restoration of Kenya’s Meru National Park is a prime
example. ‘In recent years,’ Fitch writes, ‘a fascinating experiment has been under way in this region of northern Kenya, a revolutionary attempt to restore the natural African environment, in a place that was decimated by punishing conflicts and utter abandonment’. Meru was a hotspot for Kenya’s tourism industry in the 70s and 80s, but, for a variety of reasons, fell into disrepair. ‘Without the protection they desperately needed, the native animal populations of Meru were annihilated, up to 90 per cent of its animal populations disappearing in the 1990s’. Several international agencies intervened, and more than 1,300 species were brought and released into Meru’s 335 square miles. ‘Finally, they stepped back, and simply waited to see what would happen. […] The results were startling.’ In a continent that has seen a dramatic decline in species such as wild lions, Meru is bucking the trend. ‘Meru became evidence of what could happen when nature was simply left alone, and allowed to ‘re-wild’ itself.’
Call of the Wild
But for all the thought-provoking environmental, historical, and social strands, it’s the profound draw of virgin wilderness that will bring many to pick up the Atlas, the chance to dream of matching the exploits of the great explorers of old. Fitch isn’t immune. “I would love to join one of those ‘we’re going to climb a mountain, or find a new continent’ kind of expeditions,” he says, before bringing us all back to earth by adding, “But they really don’t exist anymore.” While technology has made it easier for the average person to visit places that were once out of their reach, the fact is that to visit the unvisitable – as it always has – would require a lot of time, money and expertise. But if you’d still like some inspiration, the book’s ‘Untouched Lands’ section is a good place to begin. Here you’ll find the Darién Gap – the impassable jungle marshland that interrupts the 30,000-mile Pan-American highway – with ‘tropical temperatures over 33°C and humidity regularly approaching 100 per cent, [the Darién Gap] is a wild isthmus of exotic plants, large mammals, and a smorgasbord of deadly creatures’.
clockwise from above: Chris Fitch’s Atlas of Untamed Places, £20, waterstones.com; Grand Tetons National Park, USA; Shipwreck of the Edouard Bohlen, on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast; Yellowstone National Park, USA
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Or there’s the Sudd, another marshy barrier in the much different locale of South Sudan’s Jonglei plains. ‘For millennia, people wishing to travel in either direction up or down the Nile […] have had to contend with the large, swampy, often impenetrable marshlands of the Sudd wetlands, one of the largest in the world’. Also included is the world’s deepest cave system, and Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench – ‘the deepest-known part of our planet’s oceans’. The latter was visited by Hollywood director James Cameron (talk about resources) who piloted only the second manned craft in history to reach the bottom, and described his arrival as ‘like new-fallen snow on an endless parking lot’. But besides oneoff originals such as Cameron, these
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destinations are mostly the preserve of the explorers of the 21st century – the scientists. But in this book, they’re for everyone. Fitch hopes the Atlas will act as a catalyst for “encouraging the imagination, about getting the mind working, to inspire”. In his introduction, he’s placed naturalist John Muir’s assertion that ‘wilderness is a necessity’. In many ways, it is, and no less so in how it defines the borders of civilisation, and, as the Atlas demonstrates, reflects back on us as a society. With scientists arguing that the sixth mass extinction (the widespread extinction of species on Earth) is already underway, this is both an entertaining compilation of stories, and a timely work of environmentalism. Perhaps most extraordinary is just how many places
there are where the natural world does remain in the ascendancy, where the imagination can still run up against mystery and be ignited. Perversely, it’s the tale of the indomitable Sentinelese that has a moment that seems emblematic of our modern relationship with the wild. Fitch writes how the 9.1 magnitude earthquake of 2004 led to the island suffering a “dramatic uplift out of the sea […] a significant geological shift that has generally remained in place to this day. The Indian Air Force sent a helicopter to fly over the island in the wake of the tsunami, to which a single Sentinelese man responded by marching out of the jungle and confidently firing arrows in its direction’.
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@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
Guide price: £795 per week
Cashmere House, Aldgate E1 A stylish two bedroom apartment in the luxury Goodman's Fields development. 2 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception, high specification kitchen, 2 balconies, walk in wardrobe space. 24 hour concierge, leisure facilities, residents' cinema. Available furnished. EPC: B. aldgatelettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3823 9930
City Magazine February 2018
19/01/2018 16:47:28
FOUND. Your perfect tenant. Let with Knight Frank
Our local expertise and global network mean that we can find a reliable tenant for your property; and with an average tenancy of nearly two years, Knight Frank not only helps you find them – but keep them as well. If you are considering letting a property this year, please contact us on 020 8166 5366 or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings All potential tenants should be advised that, as well as rent, an Guide price: £550 per week
Pierhead Wharf, Wapping E1W
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A smart two bedroom apartment across the second floor comprising of a master bedroom and second bedroom, family bathroom with shower, reception room and contemporary open plan kitchen. EPC:C. Approximately 71 sq m (757 sq ft). Available furnished.
administration fee of £288 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property. There will also be a £48 charge to register your deposit with the Tenancy Deposit Scheme if applicable. (All fees shown are inclusive of VAT.) Please ask us for more information about other fees that will apply or visit www.knightfrank.co.uk/tenantfees.
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
wappinglettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 5366
Guide price: £750 per week
Admiralty House, Wapping E1W Set within the prestigious London Dock, this spacious two bedroom apartment benefits from 24 hour concierge, CCTV security system, access to the health and fitness suite, comfort cooling and wooden flooring. EPC: B. Approximately 85 sq m (917 sq ft). wappinglettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 5366
February 2018
22/01/2018 10:06:16
LIMITED COLLECTION OF URBAN HOUSES Winner of the Innovative Living Award, presented by Sunday Times British Home Awards
A limited number of 3 bedroom homes now remain in the Urban Houses collection at Kidbrooke Village. These innovative contemporary homes within Blackheath Quarter feature:
Impressive roof terrace with timber decking and artificial grass, ideal for low maintenance modern living Maximised amount of natural light through cleverly designed features such as lightwells Spacious open plan living, world class design and high quality finishes
Showhome open to view. Call a member of the sales team on 020 3733 7214 to arrange a viewing
Limited availability 3 bedroom homes, priced at £915,000 Estimated completion – February 2018
Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm (Thursdays until 8pm) Wallace Court, 40 Tizzard Grove, London SE3 9FD Photography depicts Showhome at Kidbrooke Village and is indicative only. Prices and information correct at time of sending to press.
www.kidbrookevillage.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
Delivered in proud partnership with:
Mayfair Showroom 66 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 3JL 28 offices in central London and over 60 across the capital
Strand, WC2R ÂŁ2,500,000
A two bedroom, two bathroom apartment on the second floor of a Grade II Listed building. The property has a large kitchen/reception room with vaulted ceiling and exposed beams with double French doors leading to a private terrace, energy rating c. Dexters Covent Garden 020 7067 2424
Rosebery Avenue, EC1R ÂŁ1,100,000
A well-presented one bedroom apartment in a Grade II Listed development, New River Head. The property has a mezzanine study area, eaves storage and original wood flooring throughout. Further benefits include a communal garden, energy rating c. Dexters Clerkenwell 020 7483 6369
dexters.co.uk
Northumberland Avenue, WC2N £1,600 per week
Set on the third floor of a period conversion, this three bedroom apartment has a large reception room with double height ceilings and wood flooring throughout. The property has a modern kitchen, two bathrooms and plenty of storage, energy rating d. Dexters Covent Garden 020 7067 2400
Northchurch Road, N1 £1,150 per week
A stucco fronted Georgian house set over three floors with three double bedrooms. The property has two reception rooms, two bathrooms and a private paved garden. There is a working feature fireplace and original features throughout, energy rating d. Dexters Islington 020 7483 6374 Tenants fees apply: £180 per tenancy towards administration, £60 reference fee per tenant and £144 towards the end of tenancy check out report (all inc VAT).
www.onetouchinvestment.co.uk enquire@onetouchinvestment.co.uk 020 3709 4275
Retirement Home Investment Sector Fundamentals “Historically, care homes were seen as a place of last resort but now they are as much about a lifestyle choice.” Tom Morgan – senior director in healthcare at CBRE
• Number of over 85s is expected to more than double between 2014 - 2039 from 1.5 million to 3.6 million. • Robust investment - Berkley Care Group reports making £30,000 of profit per bed before tax and other expenses.
About Windlestone Hall • Luxury retirement lodging • 10% return over a ten-year commercial lease • Invest from £117,500 • Fully managed, hands off investment • Grade II listed building – 19th Century Country Estate • Buy back options in year 5 at 110% and year 10 at 125% More luxury retirement investments available in numerous locations across the country
10% net income over a ten-year commercial lease
288 Bishopsgate | London | EC2M 4QP London-based property investment company. Call for consultations with our property experts held in our office.
Beckenham 020 8663 4433 Bromley 020 8315 5544
Chislehurst 020 8295 4900 Locksbottom 01689 882 988
Orpington 01689 661 400 West Wickham 020 8432 7373
Beckenham BR3
Keston BR2
Occupying a plot of approximately 0.8 of an acre is this exceptional Arts & Crafts family residence.
A stunning 1,339 sqft, two bedroom first floor apartment benefiting from a south facing balcony.
£3,250,000 F/H
£775,000 L/H
Five bedrooms
Five bathrooms
Two bedrooms
Two bathrooms
Four receptions
EER C
One reception
EER B
Contact Beckenham 020 8663 4433
Contact Locksbottom 01689 882 988
Bromley BR1 A collection of unique one and two bed apartments adjacent to the Grade I listed Sundridge Park Mansion.
Prices from £399,950-£550,000 L/H One & two beds
One bathroom
One reception
EER C
Contact Bromley 020 8315 5544
The Acorn Group, incorporating:
langfordrussell.co.uk
Help to Buy
PHASE TWO NOW RELEASED LUXURIOUS ZONE 3 LIVING WITH JUST A 5% DEPOSIT*
Book to view the show home now: 020 8315 6996 | acornnewhomes.co.uk *Terms and Conditions apply **From Sydenham station, source TFL
Sat Nav Ref: SE26 5QW
Zanara Court is a brand new collection of luxury, one, two and three bedroom apartments. Offering high quality, contemporary design elements combined with generous living spaces and superior specifications. •
One, two and three bedroom apartments
•
Modern open-plan kitchen/living areas
•
Balcony or terraces to selected apartments
•
Communal central courtyard
•
10 year CRL Warranty
•
Disabled units available
•
Just 15 minutes to Canada Water**
Prices from £385,000
19th Floor Skyline Club lounge balcony at The Corniche
19th Floor Skyline Club lounge at The Corniche
Swimming pool at The Corniche
Spa at The Corniche
Live on the finest curve of the river The Corniche is an exclusive riverside address with panoramic views over the River Thames and the City. Highly specified three bedroom apartments, occupying a whole floor, within the exclusive Skyline Collection. Enjoy a lifestyle that is ahead of the curve. Prices from £3.6 million. Move in next year. New Show Apartment launching Saturday 10th February. For more information visit the Marketing Suite at 21 Albert Embankment | Open daily from 10am – 6pm www.cornichelondon.co.uk | 020 3733 3520
www.cornichelondon.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
SELLING FAST – DON’T MISS OUT!
WHY RENT WHEN YOU CAN BUY? LONDON HELP TO BUY IS AVAILABLE ON OUR APARTMENTS & PENTHOUSES PLUS, WITH THE RECENT STAMP DUTY CHANGES, BUYING COULDN’T BE EASIER! * 1, 2 & 3 bedroom apar tments & penthouses
Apartments from £285,000 Penthouses from £355,000
Integrated appliances and flooring included
Minutes from Harold Wood station with Crossrail in 2019†
First completions Summer 2018
LONDON HELP TO BUY* ON A 1 BEDROOM PENTHOUSE! You
5% Deposit
London Help to Buy
40% Government Equity Loan
£142,000
Mortgage Lender
55% Mortgage
£195,250
1 bedroom penthouse 100% Yours
£17,750
£355,000
kings-park.co.uk 01708 348578 VISIT OUR MARKETING SUITE AND SHOW HOME TODAY!
Marketing Suite and Show Apartment open daily 10am-5pm 1a St Clements Avenue, Harold Wood, London RM3 0BE *Stamp Duty changes as of Budget 22.11.17, London Help to Buy on selected plots only and subject to terms and conditions, 40% loan is interest-free for first 5 years, please ask a Sales Consultant for more details. †Source: crossrail.co.uk. Prices and information correct at time of going to print. January 2018.
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LIVE CREATIVELY in N1C
OWN A PIECE of HISTORY Become neighbours with Central Saint Martins, Louis Vuitton, Google, Everyman Cinema and the re-imagined Thomas Heatherwick designed shopping street, Coal Drops Yard. London’s best transport links with zone 1 tube, close proximity to 15 major universities and colleges; rail links across Great Britain plus Eurostar, the UK’s only direct rail connection to Europe. Apartments ready to move into today. Prices from £810,000*
+44 (0)20 7205 4523 | enquiries@livinginkingscross.co.uk | livinginkingscross.co.uk *Price correct at time of print. For a studio in Gasholders London
Changing the game since 1962 For 56 years, A&K has been winning awards by helping discerning travellers discover the world through our tailor-made luxury holidays and unparalleled small-group experiences. We specialise in connecting world wanderers to interesting places, peoples and cultures in real and authentic ways
City by Appointment – we’ll come to you to plan your next holiday
020 3667 7000 | abercrombiekent.co.uk/city Run Wild_FullPage_Final.indd 1
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