CANARY WHARF SEPTEMBER 2010 by Runwild Media Group

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AWARD-WINNING FX – THAT’S JUST PART OF THE PICTURE

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FA S H I O N inForming, inFlUencing, insepArAble

TALKING PICTURES

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CLASH OF THE TITANS the 2010 rYder cUp

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contents

interview

free THINKING

feature 12

His product has been around less than a decade and it reaches 300 million people every month. It’s enough to turn even the most seasoned marketing man green with envy. Then again, Jimmy Wales, founder of Wikipedia, doesn’t even do any marketing, as he tells Claire Adler

Free Thinking

hen asked what Wikipedia’s first ever listing was, founder Jimmy Wales can’t remember. But, he says, the first words he put out were: “Hallo world”. How apt. Those who have met and interviewed him know Jimmy Wales is hardly your effusive marketing type. Everything he utters is nothing if not to the point. What began in 2001 as a mission to provide a free encyclopaedia to everyone on the planet, has become a global operation involving thousands of volunteer editors and contributors. Today Wikipedia’s global scope is such that its articles are available in over 250 languages and the The English language content of Wikipedia is just 20 per cent of the total of Wikipedia. “Hallo world”, indeed. “I’m most excited and proud about what’s going on in the developing world,” says Wales, who has declared his ultimate aim is to empower people everywhere to make good decisions. “In some cultures and languages, like Swahili, Wikipedia is the first encyclopaedia that has ever existed. There are currently 18,000 articles on Swahili Wikipedia. Indian Wikipedia is also showing very strong growth and transforming the lives of people there.” Wikipedia – owned by the Wikimedia Foundation, which Wales set up in 2003, and funded by donations – finally turned its first profit in the last quarter of 2009. On one of his regular visits to schools that use Wikipedia round the world, Wales dropped in on a class of children in a slum in the Dominican Republic, sitting in a computer lab in an afterschool session. “Three years ago, this community didn’t even have electricity. Now they have instant access to Google, YouTube, Wikipedia, and they are on IM with their friends,” he says. In the Indian state of Kerala, the government has distributed a CD-Rom of Wikipedia articles to 50,000 teachers in their local language. On a recent trip to an India slum, Wales met a 17-year-old boy who thanked him personally, saying Wikipedia had helped him pass his high school exams. In 1962, Charles van Doren, later a senior editor at Encyclopaedia Britannica, claimed: “The ideal encyclopaedia should be radical. It should stop being safe.” Wales, a man accustomed to risk – he began his career as an options trader betting on interest rates and foreign currency fluctuations – couldn’t help noticing the history of

Talking to Jimmy Wales, the man behind the world’s encyclopaedia, Wikipedia

The Art of Fashion Exploring the inextricably linked worlds of art and fashion

we’ve built a global brand. We don’t do any marketing. Word of mouth is stronger than ever

concierge 38

feature

Britannica was “anything but radical.” He remains driven by his own radical idea – imagining a world in which every single person on the planet is given free access to the sum of all human knowledge. Wales launched Wikia.com in 2004 – where communities of people come together to share information on anything they love – currently 75th on the list of most-visited websites and attracting 30 million unique visitors monthly. This summer, the British Museum hosted the first ever Wikipedian-in-Residence, a project that offered UK fans a Backstage Pass tour and resulted in new Wikipedia content. While Wikipedia has been free since 2001, the British Museum has offered free entry since 1753. In another collaboration, Jimmy Wales currently appears in advertisements for innovative luxury Swiss watchmakers Maurice Lacroix. “I love the Maurice Lacroix watch and I like the company’s authenticity. You can’t get by with just glitz,” he says. By the same token, Maurice Lacroix CEO Martin Bachmann is in awe of Wales’s vision and revolutionary accomplishments. Wales is largely regarded as one of the architects of a new way of working, enabling a world where collaboration and the democratisation of information has empowered people to share knowledge freely. Anyone can re-use Wikipedia content for commercial or non-profit purposes. It is a culture that has led to new ways of doing business. Think of companies who give away free laptops to sell internet subscriptions, free phones to sell talk time, or free online photography-sharing site Flickr, which sells the superior FlickrPro to serious users. Chris Anderson, the author of Free: The Future Of Radical Price, claims people below 30 no longer pay for information, knowing it will be available somewhere for free. Wales believes people are still more likely to pay for specialised information, but that encyclopaedia information is too easily accessible to charge for. Perhaps unsurprisingly, he’s convinced News International’s recent decision to charge readers for online access to The Times will not prompt other papers to follow. “I think News International will give it up,” he says. So what does this say about how consumers will choose what they’re prepared to pay for in the future – from information to luxury watches? “The power now lies with brands to share their compelling stories via the internet and their enthusiast communities,” says Wales. “With Wikipedia’s 300 million users per month, we’ve built a global brand. We don’t do any marketing. Word of mouth is stronger than ever.” n

Fashion Quintessentially British menswear

Design London Looking at The London Design Festival, which takes place this month

weddings 48

The Oldfield Occasion

Mr. Classic

Bruce Oldfield OBE, lets us into a few secrets as a top fashion designer

Red tartan tie, £50, blue tartan shirt, £80, navy blazer, £450, blue jeans, £100, small green and tan briefcase, £490, burgundy spot silk square, £25

Aisle Style

Photographer: Peter Zownir

art & culture concierge

calibre Male Bonding Matthew Carter argues the case for the Abrath’s new 500C Cabrio Left: Outrace in Trafalgar Square by Kram and Weisshaar with Audi for LDF 2010

design

The Racing Ringleader Formula One ringleader Bernie Ecclestone, the shrewdest business man in sport

Right: Once Upon a Dream at Andaz Liverpool Street Hotel Below: Staircase installation at the V&A Museum

his is the eighth year of the Festival that celebrates global creativity across numerous design disciplines by exhibiting exciting, innovative works in a vast range of venues across the capital. One of those venues, the hotel Andaz Liverpool Street, will host a number of installations and events such as the sleeping capsule, Once Upon a Dream, by French designer Mathieu Lehanneur. Located in the hotel’s lounge, the capsule functions as a sleep pod that introduces a new way of helping a hotel’s residents to rest and recuperate from jetlag and to adjust to their new, journey’s-end environment. “A good sleep is a luxury few people can boast of when they are travelling,” comments Arnaud de Saint-Exupéry, general manager of the hotel, “and we feel the pod is reflective of the innovative spirit Andaz is known for.” Commissioned by luxury brand, Veuve Clicquot, the pod’s form is an amalgamation of fairy-tale and futuristic design created by Lehanneur after researching scientific studies carried out by specialists dealing with chronic insomnia. Once Upon a Dream offers a bed in an intimate space that cleverly optimises the sleep process. It achieves this within a 15-minute period by closing a curtain automatically around the bed, gradually increasing the surrounding darkness and reducing the temperature to 19°⁰C – the optimum for sleep. A “white noise” humming sound at a natural frequency is also produced, which isolates the user from unwanted noise and the pod receives a micro-diffusion of sea air at regular intervals that gently rocks the user. The waking process is equally sensitive as, at a pre-determined time, the user is automatically brought out of sleep over a 15-minute period by the gradual rise in the light and the temperature in the pod. As the hotel is expected to become a hub for people visiting the Festival’s other projects in the Liverpool Street area and the East End, the pod looks certain to become a major attraction both in the short and the long term.

LONDON

comment The industrial and economic move of manufacturing to the interior of China

connoisseur 126 The Business of Pleasure The most luxurious and indulgent way to do business in Hong Kong

139 On a High A new Head Chef joins Plateau

Without doubt a feast of design for all tastes, for everyone to enjoy and for London to be proud of The Festival will transform locations such as Clerkenwell, Covent Garden, Fitzrovia Village and South Kensington into temporary Design Districts presenting a selection of unique exhibitions and experiences. South Kensington will also offer Brompton Bicycle Tours as a topical and practical way of visiting all areas of the Festival. Not too far away by bike or by any other mode of transport will be the extraordinary mechanical octopus in Trafalgar Square. Consisting of eight industrial robotic arms from leading car manufacturer, Audi, it is destined to attract a huge audience, especially as visitors seeing it via the internet can participate in its actions.

The world’s most famous design museum, the V&A, adopts a truly 21st century image by playing host to a variety of the Festival’s features that include digital tapestries, a stunning staircase installation and a dramatic garden sculpture! Liberty, famous for decades as the capital’s showcase store for designers from around the globe, will be holding an exhibition by Swedish company, ACNE, of its new range of sleek, sculptural sofas inspired by that country’s late, distinguished furniture designer, Carl Malmsten. Also being launched there will be a range of items by the design group, Roger la Borde, that includes its new collection of distinctive stationery, homewares featuring Victoriana illustrations with a contemporary twist, as well as original artwork and limited edition prints by internationally acclaimed artists such as Nelly Dimitranova, Aya Kakeda and Su Blackwell. Without doubt a feast of design for all tastes, for everyone to enjoy and for London to be proud of. n

When people think of London, they automatically think of it as a centre for art and design, and this month’s London Design Festival is certain to reaffirm that view, assures Carol Cordrey

110 China’s Hinterlands

Lucie Dodds 63

Bridal trends for the autumn/winter season

Fashion Editor:

London Design Festival 18–26 September www.londondesignfestival.com

regulars 10

editor’s letter

102

gadgets

fashion

112

personal finance

health & beauty

125

travel

interiors

137

food & drink

motoring

143

out & about

sport

147

property

David M Robinson Canary Wharf 2:Layout 1 26/05/2010 09:50 Page 1

4 Jubilee Place, Canary Wharf, London E14 5NY Tel: 0207 538 2332 www.davidmrobinson.co.uk

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH www.audemarspiguet.com

contributors...

RUNWILD M

Editor-in-Chief Lesley Ellwood

Editor

Louisa Castle

Editorial Director Kate Harrison

1. Claire Adler is a London-based freelance journalist specialising in jewellery, watches and luxury brands. Her work has appeared in the Financial Times, The Sunday Times, The Guardian and Harrods magazine. 2. Jamie Carter is a freelance journalist specialising in gadgets and technology. Jamie has written for the likes of T3, Home Cinema Choice and The Guardian as well as a number of websites. 3. David Kuo is one of the uK’s leading

commentators on money matters. He is a director at The Motley Fool as well as providing daily insight and financial news for BBC London’s Breakfast Show.

4. Sim Smith is a freelance journalist and

stylist based in London. A frequent contributor to prestigious publications, Sim has worked with ELLE Decoration, The Telegraph and The Financial Times.

5. Matthew Carter is a London-based freelance journalist who’s been writing about cars for most of his working life. A former editor of Autocar magazine, he is a serial car owner. 6. Martin Bamford is one of the youngest and most successful financial planners in the UK. He runs his own firm of financial advisers – Informed Choice – and regularly contributes to various financial publications. 7. Carol Cordrey is an art critic and editor with popular columns in many magazines. Each year she organises sponsored art competitions offering attractive prize money and judged by distiguished artists. 8. Clare Murray is founder and managing partner of specialist law firm, CM Murray LLP. Clare and her colleagues advise a wide range of companies, professional firms and senior individuals on employment, partnership and business immigration law issues.

Deputy Editor Josephine O’Donoghue

Editorial Assistants Oliver Balcazar Penelope M Walsh

Fashion Editor Lucie Dodds

Senior Designer Hiren Chandarana

Design Assistant Kayze De Silva

Production Manager Dan Hyde

Group Publishing Director Eren Ellwood

Project Manager Ella Kilgarriff

PR & Marketing Manager Rebecca Walton

Managing Director Giles Ellwood

16 Heron Quay, Canary Wharf London E14 4JB T: 020 7987 4320 F: 020 7005 0045 www.runwildmedia.com

Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Runwild Media Ltd. take no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.

Art & Fashion See page 14 Runwild Media Group Publishers of: Canary Wharf magazine The City magazine, Vicinitee VENUE – The official magazine of The O2

SuBSCRipTionS: A free subscription service is available to employees at Canary Wharf offices. E-mail subscribe@runwildmedia.com for further details. For other readers, 6 & 12 month subscriptions are available at £15 & £25 respectively, to cover postage and packaging. For details of subscriptions and advertising, please contact us on 020 7987 4320.

September

from the editor...

’m not sure about April being labelled the month of showers as, right now, as we press print on our September issue, the end of August is giving April a really good run for its money. Where’s that Indian summer we were promised by the weatherman? I guess it must be time to reinstate the autumn wardrobe with some inspirational seasonal extras. Take note of our special autumn showers collection of macs (p.22) as I’m predicting we’ll need them more and more. And step back to the time of the English gentleman with our vintage inspired fashion shoot celebrating the launch of the new Hackett store in Canary Wharf (p.38). September is also a time when the winter wedding season really gets into full swing, so we’ve got a whole section for you to pore over (p.47); dresses, designs and an in-depth interview with Bruce Oldfield, wedding dress designer to Sarah Cameron, Princess Diana and more; hints on how to propose and choose ‘the’ ring (useful for the other half or for you to point out, just in case); the season’s ultimate trends and some of the best local venues.

The Ryder Cup is on the horizon, so we’ve sent our roving golfing expert out to Wales (umbrella at the ready) to see what other courses there are on offer (p.99) and we profile the one and only Bernie Ecclestone, one of the shrewdest men in sport and also, possibly the shortest (p.94). Our financial pages (p.107) cover the announcement of cuts and a reorganisation of the Ministry of Defence; a special Reuters report on China’s manufacturing hinterlands; the state of the foreign exchange market; the rise of women investors and the importance of setting goals to get to where you want to be in life and work. Stepping out of the country we visit Hong Kong, one of the most exhilarating cities in the world, filled with a rich sense of culture and a modern metropolitan edge and a truly pleasurable place to do business (p.126). Alternatively, Beverley Byrne dons her sailing gear and floats around the Turkish and Greek islands in a traditional timber yacht all shipshape and Bristol fashion (p.132). Enjoy the read... and don’t forget your umbrella

WISHING YOU A HARRODS CHRISTMAS With over 100 years of heritage and a whole host of cutting-edge and classic gift ideas, Harrods makes light work of your corporate Christmas giving. Not only do we have a luxurious array of gourmet hampers, that suit all budgets, but for Christmas 2010, we also have an range of artisan hampers created exclusively for Harrods by Daylesford Organic and Stichelton Cheesemakers, as well as the quintessentially British treats that will delight clients, employees and friends around the world. Whatever you need this Christmas, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something for everyone at Harrods. For more information, contact Harrods Corporate Service on +44 (0) 207 225 5994 or corporate.service@harrods.com

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27/08/2010 09:40

interview

feature

free THINKING His product has been around less than a decade and it reaches 300 million people every month. It’s enough to turn even the most seasoned marketing man green with envy. Then again, Jimmy Wales, founder of Wikipedia, doesn’t even do any marketing, as he tells Claire Adler

we’ve built a global brand. We don’t do any marketing. Word of mouth is stronger than ever

the

fashion

Delving into the worlds of art and fashion, from the making of the modern age to the current day, Penelope M Walsh explores the extent to which these two modes of expression have informed and influenced each other, arguing that they are ultimately inseparable

Cubart by Lako Bukia

fashion

feature

rt and fashion have evolved interdependently since at least as far back as the Renaissance, when the move towards a more mimetic style of representation in fine art led to a more detailed and involved depiction of garments. This, in turn, lead to sartorial style becoming a legitimate subject matter for fine art, and as important a way of representing the sitter’s character and status as the rest of the composition. Just as fashion was beginning to influence art, so too art began to affect fashions, becoming akin to fashion plates, proliferating trends between courts, just as illustrated fashion journalism spread trends across capitals in the 20th century. with this movement that we have the Many regard fashion to be all famous London fashion store that bears too quotidian to be considered art, his name. Housing oriental objet d’art, but in fact, towards the end of the decorative homewares and fashions, the 19th century there was a significant influence of Liberty’s on Art Nouveau crossover between the art and fashion was so great, that it is known in Italian worlds, with artists and fashion as ‘Stile Liberty’. designers working and socialising As a result of this collaboration in increasingly close proximity, between the arts and artists, fashion and often in collaboration. From began naturally to adopt the style of the Aesthetic movement, which Art Nouveau. The distinctive S-shaped championed art for art’s sake, right silhouette became ubiquitous, through to Art Nouveau, many artists bolstered with bustle-like contraptions began moonlighting in the fashion under the skirt. Skirts became softly world, with fine artists such as James layered, draped and pleated, mirroring Abbott McNeil Whistler and Gustav Art Nouveau’s curvaceous, organic Klimt designing dresses for their lines and reminiscent in shape and sitters; others such as Raoul Dufy form of the floral motifs used in the designing and painting textiles art of the period. Fashion also began and accessories; and artists such to borrow Art Nouveau’s palette of as Paul Iribe and Georges Lepape soft, pale colours, with an emphasis on creating fashion illustrations. greens and reds found in nature. The involvement of artists in Long inspired by, and involved with fashion led to a bleeding of the the art world, Paris’ first star couturier, concerns of contemporary artistic Paul Poiret, engaged artist Raoul Dufy movements into the edges of the to create textile prints for his designs, as fashion world, and couturiers became well as a group of women, who took increasingly thought of as creators, for their education in design only the rather than tradesmen. The effect of trips that Poiret instigated to the this was most pronounced leading up Louvre. As Art Nouveau gave way to and during the Art Nouveau period, to the newer, Poiret, and others when in an unprecedented move like him, moved away from its towards a unity of artistic concerns and palette and began to employ ideas, fine and decorative artists strived bright, vibrant colours such as to create a cohesive and monumental pinks, blues and reds. This art movement that would stretch across shift in shades was equally all forms of art, design, decoration inspired by the activities of and craft, creating a style distinctive the art world, mirroring to the modern age. In England, this the palette used by movement was known as the Arts and Fauvist painters Crafts Movement, and it was through such as Henri Art Nouveau inspired fashion Arthur Lasenby Liberty’s involvement Matisse and André Derain.

feature fashion

Poiret moved away from what he himself considered to be the tyranny of the corset in a bid to give women a freedom of movement, but in doing so moved the fashion silhouette away from the curvaceous S that had marked out Art Nouveau fashion, and towards a more linear silhouette, created with tubular, cylindrical dress shapes. Around this time, Coco Chanel also began creating simple, linear dresses and cloche hats. The clean lines of these fashions changed the silhouette of women’s bodies to a stylistic representation of geometric shapes, reflecting the style of the Cubist movement. Cubism had a significant impact on the fashion of the time and also on Art Deco, which borrowed not only its geometric shapes, but also its use of black and white, a combination that not only influenced Chanel, but ultimately became her trademark. Many of the trends that Chanel has become famous for can be linked to the prevailing taste for Art Deco. For example, Chanel is largely credited with introducing the trend of tanning, which ties in with Jean Cocteau the Art Deco preoccupation with travel and oriental exoticism. Equally, Chanel’s creation of the now infamous ‘little black dress’ and introduction of elements of menswear into women’s fashion can be linked with the later Art Deco concern with speed, movement and streamlining. Streamlining characterised the later stages of Art Deco and became the

Art produces ugly things which frequently become beautiful with time. Fashion, on the other hand, produces beautiful things which always become ugly with time

Christian Louboutin’s Piet Mondrian inspired shoes

buzzword of the 1930s, thanks in part to Futurism, which embraced speed and movement in art. Streamlining quickly entered the vocabulary of women’s fashion, no doubt in part due to the increased emancipation of women. Madeleine Vionnet developed the bias cut dress, which was figurehugging and moved sensuously in tune with the body. Streamlining and the resultant bias cut became so popular and such a key part of 1930s fashion that in 1934, Vogue decreed that the silhouette du jour was “the windswept, fleet lines of a speed boat or airplane”. As the 1930s progressed, two women dominated the world of couture: Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Both socialised with and collaborated artistically with many of the stars of the Surrealist scene, including Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dali. Surrealist motifs began to pervade their fashions, with Schiaparelli creating Surrealist prints and adding Surrealist ‘jokes’ such as pockets in the form of miniature drawers complete with handles, and employing the Surrealist sense of displacement and illusion with the shoe hat from her 1937 Winter collection. Much of the fashion after this period was affected more by political developments than by art, particularly the rationing of cloth and luxury goods during World War II and the subsequent expulsion of full, pleated skirts after Dior’s New Look made a defiant show of hope for the affluence of the future in 1947. It wasn’t until the 1960s that art became a significant influence on fashion again, with Op Art- and Pop Art-inspired prints appearing on clothing throughout the period. Op Art was characterised by black and white, mind-blowing and -bending optical illusions. An example of the way Op Art was appropriated by fashion designers is the black and white striped jacket tinged with elements of optical illusion, worn by David Bowie and recently revisited in Givenchy’s Spring Summer 2010 collection. Givenchy’s looking to the past for inspiration ties neatly into postmodern theories, in light of which it is no surprise that today the influence of art on fashion tends to be a retrospective, cherry picking look at the best of what the past can offer, for example the appropriation of Mondrian’s distinct grids by both Yves

Art Deco inspired fashion

Saint Laurent in the 1960s, and again later by Christian Louboutin in 2010. Designer Lako Bukia’s Autumn Winter collection, Cubart, is a great case in point for this theory, looking back to the same work that originally inspired Poiret and Chanel, taking inspiration from Cubism, particularly the works of Pablo Picasso. Recreating the contrasting tones, textures and clean, graphic lines of Cubist paintings, Bukia’s collection uses unusual pairings of wool, velvet and chiffon to create a multi-dimensional perspective and sense of tonality to startlingly sumptuous and elegant effect. Bukia comments that art often plays a role in inspiring her collections, but that ultimately her inspiration is everything that “surrounds” her. This calls to mind the famous quotation from Coco Chanel: “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening”, illustrating the organic and inevitable way in which art and fashion grow together and towards one another, equally informed by how the world around them develops. To give Bukia the last word, when asked what the relationship between art and fashion are, succinctly, she says it all: “They are one, they can’t be without each other”. n Cubart by Lako Bukia is stocked by Not Just a Label

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current affairs

feature

sugar and spice...

and all things nice?

In a rapidly changing society, it appears that each generation of children is losing a little bit more of their childhood. Josephine O’Donoghue looks at the influence of the media, social networking sites, peer pressure and marketing on the childhood innocence of young girls

ou only have to log on to one of the many existing social networking websites such as Facebook, MySpace or Bebo to see hundreds of provocative and explicit photos of young teenage girls, displayed to the general public without any privacy settings to limit their viewings. Many of these girls, posing in their bikinis or underwear, or flashing their newly developed curves to the camera, are in their early teens – and unfortunately, are not yet mature enough to understand the social, moral or personal ramifications of their actions. Think back to the time when you were 12 or 13 years old, and I bet the picture is rather different from what we see today. Research from Mintel in 2004 showed that most 7–10-year-old girls have started to wear make-up before they even hit their teens – 83 per cent wear nail varnish and 66 per cent use lipstick – and in the six years since then, figures have only increased. Twenty or thirty years ago, it was unheard of that girls wore their first bra until they at least reached

secondary school; today, raunchy underwear and ‘sexy padded’ bikinis are available from 6–7 years. So, are girls as young as 7 years old really aware of the manner in which they dress, or are they simply imitating role models they see within the media? “Girls see celebrities acting and dressing in an overtly sexual way and think that is the best way to get attention”, commented Dr Glenn Wilson (reader in psychology at King’s College London and an expert on exhibitionism) to The Times. Although he believes flirtation and attention seeking to be natural for young girls, he says that: “Wearing items like thongs and revealing clothes sends the message that they are sexually available. It also implies knowledge of sexuality that just isn’t there”. Dr Sharon Lamb, a Professor of Psychology at Vermont University, agrees and thinks that girls are being encouraged by the rise of celebrity culture, badly designed clothing and toymakers. The popular pre-teen craze for Bratz dolls is just one example, popular in both the USA and the UK. These ‘dolls’

are dressed in stilettos or platform shoes, strappy tops, stockings and miniskirts and are painted with lurid ‘make-up’ including plenty of lipstick, eyeliner and huge fake eyelashes. The television adverts show them in scenarios focused on shopping, money, personal appearance and impressing boys. “That’s giving girls the wrong message about what their body means”, says Lamb. Echoing research from Mintel, and from psychological experts, a more recent Girl Guides study in the UK pointed out that premature sexualisation and pressure to grow up too quickly are two of the key influences in anxiety felt by girls. Amongst other things, pressure to wear adult-style clothing and media encouragement to lose weight were marked out as the biggest contributing factors to the early sexualisation of young girls today.

INTERESTING FACT: A study by Dr Barbara Fredrickson at the University of North Carolina reports that girls who view themselves as sexual objects face an increased risk of developing eating disorders, depression and sexual dysfunction.

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feature current affairs

Across the Atlantic, where the influence of celebrity culture, media and the internet is comparable to the UK, similar findings are being recorded. The American Psychological Association (APA) reported that “... girls’ fear of social rejection and unpopularity drive them to choose sexualised clothing; and once they are dressed up like that, they feel the urge to perform as adults”. Dr Andrew McCulloch, chief executive of the Mental Health Foundation, agrees, saying that by forcing girls to grow up at an unnatural pace, “we are creating a generation under stress”. However, perhaps equally as worrying is the shift in attitude that appears to be tied to the change in pre-teen and teenage looks and fashion. A poll by the Lab TV website asked nearly 1,000 girls who they considered a “good role model”. The results showed that infamous glamour models Abi Titmuss and Jordan topped the list, with successful women such as JK Rowling appearing at the bottom of the results. In that same survey, around one quarter said that lap dancing would be a “good profession” and a whopping 63 per cent aspired to be glamour models rather than doctors or teachers. Justine Roberts, founder of popular website Mumsnet.com, recognises the results in the parenting experiences of her website users. “Intelligence, emotional strength and sporting achievement pale into insignificance when compared with sexiness. And we should all – parents, non-parents, men and women – be up in arms about it. This generation is being sexualised before children reach their teens, with disastrous implications for their self-worth.” This change in attitude and loss of independent ambition is an issue that has been picked up on in schools up and down the country. In 2008, Vicky Tuck (principal of Cheltenham Ladies College) said to The Times Education Editor that parents were concerned that their daughters were growing up too quickly, and were worried that they were being exposed to many negative influences. In response, these parents were increasingly turning to private, single-sex education as an antidote to a society dominated by “botox and bingeing”.

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“Worried about a coarsening of society and the toxic cocktail of binge drinking, internet safety and the early sexualisation of girls,” parents were lacking confidence in themselves as parents, said Principal Tuck. “When did we forget the craft of parenting... or that your daughter is not there to be your friend?” Ominously, the long-term effects of the early sexualisation of children are now becoming more apparent as these girls begin to reach adulthood. A report from APA, which looked at research from the past 30 years, concluded that a young girl’s preoccupation with appearance and sexuality can have disturbing consequences for her physical and mental well-being, and unhealthily “a girl’s sense of self-worth hinges on her sexual appeal”. The APA report also featured a 1998 study, in which college-aged girls were asked to try on either a swimsuit or a sweater, assess their appearance, and then perform mathematical tests. The girls asked to wear swimsuits performed significantly worse. “These girls were so hung up on their appearance, they literally didn’t have room in their heads to do maths”, explains Lamb. “They learn that preoccupation from the women they look up to in the media.” Many parents will recognise this problem in their own daughters, and it goes without saying that much of the responsibility lies with the media, the clothing manufacturers and the celebrities that these girls imitate. But essentially, individuals will only really be guided by the additional influences of those at home and at school, as the media will be ever-present in their surroundings. Positive methods of helping girls stay grounded include: presenting a choice of strong, independent and more realistic role models; monitoring internet usage and curbing any inappropriate activities; encouraging hobbies, interests and studies; focusing on the positives of childhood; and discussing peer pressure objectively. “Encourage girls to cast a critical gaze over the media and they will begin to realise that they have a choice about how they are perceived”, says Lamb. n

LET GIRLS BE GIRLS Mumsnet’s Let Girls Be Girls campaign was launched in early 2010, and grew from Mumsnetters’ concern that an increasingly sexualised culture was dripping, toxically, into the lives of children. The campaign aims to curb the premature sexualisation of children by asking retailers to commit not to sell products that play upon, emphasise or exploit their sexuality. The campaign was also backed by Gordon Brown, who was Prime Minister over the launch period. He said, “I’m proud to back Mumsnet’s Let Girls Be Girls campaign, because all of us as parents can recognise there’s something wrong when companies are pushing our kids into acting like little grown-ups when they should be enjoying being children. “Parent power has successfully persuaded retailers to withdraw inappropriate products in the past, and this campaign will send an important message about our determination to set boundaries around childhood.”

INTERESTING FACT After news broke that MySpace barred 29,000 sex offenders from using the site in 2007, Attorney-General of American state North Carolina, Roy Cooper, now wants to enforce a state law that requires parental permission for any child to create a profile and display personal photos on a social networking site.

autumn winter

n o i h s a f

1st, 2nd, 3rd October e c i v d A s w le y o t h S S k L Catwa s t n u o c s i D e r o t S e v i Exclus www.mycanarywharf.com CWAutFS-AD-A4.indd 1

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SHOPPING ICONIC BRITISH STYLE Hackett London opens new store in Canary Wharf

Hackett Mayfair shawl collar cardigan in navy, £160

Quintessential British men’s outfitters Hackett London is due to open a brand new store in Cabot Place at Canary Wharf in September 2010. This store will be relocated from the original Hackett store on Cabot Square and will be Hackett’s first within Canary Wharf’s shopping malls. On entering the store, key pieces from the Hackett Mayfair casual collection, luxury sportswear line and Hackett London’s signature tweeds are displayed within hand-selected antique shop counters and cabinets. To bring the collections to life further a plasma screen plays behind the scenes footage from photo shoots and British sporting and social events sponsored by the brand. Through the panelled Georgian archway is the men’s suiting room showcasing the formal Hackett Mayfair collection alongside Hackett’s personal tailoring services – the suiting room has a totally new concept designed to recreate the atmosphere of an exclusive gentleman’s club. Hackett is renowned for its attention to detail and this is clearly reflected in the new store environment and stunning collections.

Hackett Mayfair canvas/ leather laptop bag, £220

Hackett Mayfair dinner suit in black, £600

For further information please contact; 020 7939 6865

CREATE A STORM Luxury British heritage brand Aquascutum opens their new store at Canary Wharf

Renowned for creating iconic trench coats for everyone from Winston Churchill to Cary Grant, stylish British brand Aquascutum are set to bring their latest collection to Canary Wharf this season with a brand new store opening at Cabot Place. Using luxurious blends of wool, cashmere and silk, beautiful trench coats are paired with soft textured knits to create a collection bursting with future classics. Herringbone and tweed are given a stylish update in simple, unstructured styles that showcase the craftsmanship and elegance the brand is known for . The exquisite pieces are showcased in a campaign inspired by artist Richard Long, whose landscape photography inspires the stormy hues of the colour palette. Aquascutum also offers a personal tailoring service, creating made-tomeasure tailoring in an array of fabrics and styles, modified specifically to the individual requirements creating a truly special suit (prices from ÂŁ750).

Cabot Place 020 3069 8790 www.aquascutum.co.uk

Canteen Canary Wharf, The Park Pavilion, 40 Canada Square, London E14 5FW www.canteen.co.uk 0845 686 1122 Canteen’s first cookbook ‘GREAT BRITISH FOOD’ Available now

SHOPPInG 5

3 2

autumn showers

Make a splash with this season’s classic macs and accessories

1 Twill Mac £265, Karen Millen, Jubilee Place 2 Paper Poplin Trench £79.50, Gap, Canada Place 3 Ruffle Funnel Mac £80, Oasis, Jubilee Place 4 Ellie Belted Mac £175, Whistles, Jubilee Place 5 Black Trench £50 Dorothy Perkins, Canada Place 6 Ruche Mac £169, Hobbs, Canada Place 7 Pleat Mac £65, Next, Canada Place 8 Darla Black £275, LK Bennett, Jubilee Place 9 Flower Umbrella £150 , Aspinal of London, Cabot Place

NEWS New GreeN Gateway for CaNary wharf

Work has recently finished on the redevelopment of Cartier Circle, a spectacular landscaped entrance at the East End of Canary Wharf. “The Cartier Circle design welcomes visitors, heralding their arrival at Canary Wharf,” says Guy Dare, Design Manager at Canary Wharf Group plc. The focal point of the design is 17 sculptured bronze posts up to 13 metres high. “The outsides of the sculptured posts have a reflective quality that catch the daylight and subtly change with the weather. At night the columns are lit, creating a beautiful, jewel-like constellation,” says Dare.

PiNG PoNG fever hitS CaNary wharf

Canary Wharf has recently served up free table tennis to locals, workers and visitors. Former British number one Desmond Douglas was among those encouraging the public to have a free go on the table tennis tables specially placed in Jubilee Place mall as part of the Ping! event. West Ham United players Manuel da Costa and Herita Ilunga also popped down for a hit, along with leading players from Tower Hamlets’ Morpeth School, which has a proud tradition in table tennis, producing several national champions.

reaChiNG for the Sky

Britain’s best up-and-coming athletic talent recently took part in Street Pole Vault, an exhibition competition to promote the Aviva London Grand Prix. The athletes vaulted well over 5m – higher than a London double-decker bus, which was positioned next to the event in Montgomery Square. Crowds from across Canary Wharf and the surrounding community watched Max Eaves, Robert Warensjo, Alasdair Strange, Paul Walker, Andy Marsh and Christian North defy gravity, creating quite a site beneath Britain’s tallest buildings.

Manuel da Costa and herita ilunga from west ham United

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Canary-Wharf&City.indd 1

5/26/2010 2:23:45 PM

events AcousTic AfTer Hours WiTH... Turin Brakes

Often compared to many of the new indie bands from the late 1990s such as Elbow and Starsailor, Turin Brakes have made a major impact on the music scene since their debut album The Optimist was Mercury nominated in 2001. Their singles include Future Boy, Pain Killer and most recently, Sea Change from their acclaimed 2010 LP Outbursts. Turin Brakes will be the first group to kick off the autumn Acoustic After Hours series at Canary Wharf.

Wednesday 29 september 7.45pm (Doors open at 7pm) east Wintergarden, Bank street tickets ÂŁ18 (booking fee applies) Online: www.ticketweb.co.uk tel: 0844 847 2268 For more information visit: www.mycanarywharf.com

Turin Brakes ÂŠ Andy Willsher

tWiliGht DeliGhts

Mica Paris

Summer may be drawing to a close but there is the opportunity for one last fling in the final concert of the series

the blues brothers Jake & Elwood invite you to spend an evening in as they explode on stage with a soul, rhythm and blues musical extravaganza. With the driving backbeat of the fabulous Black Rhino Band, they continue to deliver electrifying, totally live performances to standing ovation audiences globally.

Thursday 2 September 7pm Canada Square Park FREE For details of this and other events visit www.mycanarywharf.com

Canar y Whar reCom f menDs

Canary Wharf Gets in touCh With ruGby

Mica Paris

Mica Paris is undoubtedly the UK’s Soul Queen – talented, beautiful and successful. The range, power and sheer soulfulness of her singing have made a major impact on the music scene. Her many hits include You Are My One Temptation, Where Is The Love, Never Felt Like This Before and I Put A Spell On You. Last year she released her first original studio album in ten years, Born Again to critical acclaim.

Wednesday 20 October 7.45pm (Doors open at 7pm) East Wintergarden, Bank Street Tickets £18 (booking fee applies) Online: www.ticketweb.co.uk Tel: 0844 847 2268 For more information visit: www.mycanarywharf.com

Canary Wharf is getting ready for something completely new on 9 September; a rugby tournament. The RFU has confirmed details of the Touch Rugby Corporate Challenge, taking place in the famous business and shopping district as part of its Play On campaign. The event in Canada Square Park gives anyone in Canary Wharf and the surrounding community the chance to play touch rugby on a grass pitch nestled between Britain’s tallest buildings. The Touch Rugby Corporate Challenge allows anyone to get a four person team together for quick-fire matches lasting five minutes each way. Teams must have at least one female player.

Teams can register via touchinthecity@therfu.com Thursday 9 September From 11am Canada Square Park FREE

sCUlpTUre in The worKplaCe

art window galleries the art, Design & Lightbox Window Galleries are located in the Canada Place retail mall at Canada Place, and are showcases for up-and-coming artists, designers and craftspeople.

suzanne Tang

Until 24 September Tableware made from porcelain paperclay; each delicate piece has evolved from a discarded newspaper and is transformed into an enduring, treasured object.

www.laughingmountain.co.uk portrait of Michael sheen by Cambridge Jones

Kerry John andrews

‘photographer to the stars’ to exhibit in Canary wharf

CoMMUniTY gallerY

Photographic portraits of Sir Anthony Hopkins, Michael Sheen, Stereophonics, Duffy and many others are on display at Canary Wharf from 14 September. The Talking Pictures exhibition is captured by celebrity photographer Cambridge Jones, described as Britain’s answer to Annie Leibovitz. The portraits are accompanied by audio recordings of the eminent performers, designers and writers who were asked to describe who or what inspired them.

Crossrail: steaming ahead

Photographer Cambridge Jones and each of the talking Pictures subjects share a passion for Wales. talking Pictures is produced in association with the Welsh assembly Government and with support from Canary Wharf Group plc. FrEE ENtrY 14 September – 1 October Lobby, One Canada Square

Situated within Jubilee Walk, the link from Canada Place retail mall to the Jubilee line station, the Community Gallery is devoted to exhibiting work by local arts projects.

Until 7 September

View progress on London’s vital Crossrail project. From 2017 Crossrail will increase London’s rail capacity by 10% and bring an additional 1.5 million people within an hour’s commute of London’s key business districts. The display includes new images of the Canary Wharf Crossrail Station and time lapse footage showing the draining of the construction site in North Dock.

isle of dogs Community Foundation 9 September – 27 October

2010 is the Isle of Dogs Community Foundation’s twentieth anniversary and what a couple of decades it has been! This exhibition showcases the strong partnership between local voluntary, business and statutory bodies. Since the charity was established, IDCF has invested more than £16 million in grants to the local community for a mind-boggling array of initiatives.

29 august – 24 September

Kerry has created (heer), a site-specific work of separated image and sound that explores ideas about an extended sense of self in terms of thought, the body and the space we inhabit. The images and sounds come from the immediate environment and take into account its past history.

www.kjandrews.co.uk

Chasing shadows Until 29 October

Chasing Shadows is a collaborative art work, by Eleanor and Peter Pritchard, based around the collection at the Tados Ivanauskas Zoological Museum. The ‘trees’ are created with tracing paper, singe marks and tears, referencing ‘karpinai’, traditional Lithuanian papercuts. Shadows flit and flicker across the forest, suggesting an unseen presence. The work reflects on themes of escape, confinement, belonging and dislocation.

Keeping it real

interview

feature

Carol Cordrey talks politics, photography and leading ladies with Cambridge Jones, portrait photographer who is leading the way in creative negotiation

he name’s Jones. Cambridge Jones. No, he’s not named after his alma mater because that, believe it or not, would have made him Oxford Jones and despite taking on numerous, adventurous commissions around the world, he is unrelated to Indiana Jones. Nonetheless, such a memorable name probably came in handy when, as a Philosophy, Politics and Economics (PPE) graduate, he decided to change tack and make his mark as a professional photographer. Also helpful was the availability of the dark room in his Oxford college where, according to CJ (his preferred sobriquet), he spent most of his time: “I remain fascinated by politics and the political process, but I was always a photographer first and a student second and PPE was my hobby. My tutor will confirm that!” he reflected self-effacingly. David Cameron was a fellow student, which may well account for CJ’s ability to be at ease with the celebrities who have subsequently filled his portfolio: musicians, actors, politicians, famous models, TV personalities and sportspeople who, ironically, have made CJ a celebrity too. He has been compared to the iconic photographer, Annie Leibovitz, though he personally feels influenced by David Bailey, the late Cartier-Bresson and Irving Penn. His portrait photographs are minimalist and either look like spontaneous, flash-of-a-second shots as in the case of Bill Nighy’s portrait, or carefully contrived poses as in the Take That group photograph. Such contrasting results are always distinctive and they depend on what CJ calls “a creative negotiation” between the two people on either side of the lens. “Sometimes what they want to give [me] and what I feel they can give fuses and we fly; sometimes I have to tease it out; sometimes chaos ensues and that can be great too”, he confessed, citing the session with Rhys Ifans as an example of chaos that resulted in a very successful image. The techniques he uses are surprisingly simple, involving chatting to his subjects about everything except their work and photography, “as though we’ve met on a bus”, and unsophisticated lighting involving natural light or no more than three artificial lights. In characteristic modest manner, he considers his style of photography to be quite simple too, “It’s honest. I want the best of people but I want the REAL best, not the fake Hollywood best.” Actually, the sum of his photographic work is far greater than its parts, for his portfolio is packed with unique images which reveal either a new, real facet of each person or emphasise a characteristic already familiar to us. Mostly in monochrome, which eliminates the distraction, even confusion of varied colouring, they focus the viewer’s attention on each subject’s face or body language, aided occasionally by the odd prop. For example, CJ’s new portrait of Damian Lewis in his exhibition at One Canada Square has an hypnotic,

almost sinister, stare that mirrors his pose with a swinging pocket watch. This Talking Pictures exhibition features people with Welsh connections – rather appropriate for a photographer called Jones – so it will also include the musician Duffy, the actor Anthony Hopkins, and Katherine Jenkins who is portrayed anew as a soft, barefoot but most alluring of divas in a gorgeous, notso-little black number. Michael Sheen, who shot to fame playing Tony Blair, will also be there but in the totally different guise of gangster rather than smooth, fakesmiling politician. Even more interestingly, each of the photographs really will talk, as they are accompanied by audio recordings in which the subjects talk about the inspiration for their individual success. The numerous real politicians CJ has worked with have, apparently, proved quite tricky when it comes to creating interesting portraits: “They think they are very good at it, but actually they have a very narrow range of what they will do”, he revealed, “whereas musicians are free, confident and creative and understand that pictures create their image, so they will go the full hog.” This may well present CJ with a few challenges later this year, because he’s been commissioned to create Tony Blair’s Christmas card and an exhibition of David Cameron’s Conservatives. In addition to these high-profile commitments, he will be continuing his work with people at the other end of the social spectrum in his roles as ambassador for The Prince’s Trust and for the Cherie Blair Foundation for Women, which helps women in business, especially in the Middle East. Celebrities of all types lead very busy lives and, clearly, Cambridge Jones is no exception. n Talking Pictures Lobby, One Canada Square Canary Wharf 14 September–1 October www.mycanarywharf.com

Opposite: Damian Lewis Top: Cambridge Jones Left: Katherine Jenkins

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01.07.2010 17:42:46 Uhr

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mr c;lassic season’s trends ................................................................ surrealism

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The Epitome of Cool

Frank Sinatra’s legendary clique defined life in the fast lane throughout the late ‘50s, and next month a lavishly illustrated Rat Pack retrospective will be released

select group of photographers, including Sid Avery and Bob Willoughby, captured the Rat Pack in their heyday. Many of the images they produced have been largely stored away, many even undeveloped. For the first time, access to these shots has been made possible, to produce one deluxe 450-page collector’s edition. The Rat Pack is the definitive book on Frank, Dean, Sammy and co. tearing up Hollywood and Las Vegas, with an extended cast including Marilyn Monroe and JFK. Fifty years on from the year many refer to as the Year of the

Rat Pack, 1960, and their influence endures. Shooting Oceans 11 by day, performing at the Sands by night, and sweating out the sour mash in the sauna in between, this coffee table book includes behind-the-scenes footage at the JFK Presidential inauguration and house parties with Ava Gardner and Marilyn Monroe. This numbered print run of just 2,250 is the first collectable photographic book on the men whose appeal transcends generations, and who remain the epitome of cool. n Available from Reel Art Press www.reelartpress.com

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23/8/10

15:54

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With no formal training, designer Jacob Kimmie has arguably learnt his trade from a keen eye for the world around him, driving him to deliver, in his own words, “an ideal of absolute, perfect and eternal beauty – like an antidote” to the injustice of that world. As such, Jacob Kimmie’s eponymous label delivers a style infused with a bold sense of idiom, ideology and subversion. The Autumn Winter collection, ’Pilgrim‘, is inspired by a modern take on the primitive spirituality of Aztec and Inca temples, creating an alluring and profound sense of the sublime, with this couturelike collection in a cool, clean palette of cream, white and black.

A favourite of such doyennes of distinctive style as dita von Teese, Analeena’s new Autumn Winter collection features the label’s trademark ladylike luxury that is classic and timeless. The collection features exotic skins paired with exquisite detail and includes practical yet stylish pieces, businesslike bags and laptop and blackberry cases, adding an elegant edge to a work wardrobe that means business. www.AnAleenA.com

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Photography: Richard Battye

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CARGO PANTS

Head to the Tier One website for a fantastic and stylish range of men’s and women’s shirts, which will make a great addition to any wardrobe of work wear. The unique Tier One shirts are skilfully cut to flatter and are comfortable, stylish and versatile. The effortlessly professional and well dressed look that these shirts create, make them ideal for making right impression at work.

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To my shock, horror and surprise, it seems the ‘90s are now considered long enough in the past that we are already seeing a revival of their most prolific fashion trends. I, for one, will not be taking posthumous style tips from Kurt Cobain, but you can’t legislate for everyone. And so it is that the cargo pant has seen a triumphant return (and evidently spent some time under the knife), because this season’s revisitation of that old horror, is sleek, skinny and fitted, giving an altogether more chic tone to its utilitarian reputation. All AvAilAble from www.my-wArdrobe.com

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One of the hottest (or rather warmest) trends this season will be the aviator look, with leather- and shearling-lined items in full flight on the catwalk, from jackets and flying caps to even goggles. An aviator-inspired jacket will certainly be one of the must-haves this season, so as the cold winds blow a little closer to our shores, get into winter defence mode and snuggle up in the cosy yet chic, limited edition Toggle Shearling Jacket from Dom and Ruby. AvAilAble from www.domAndruby.co.uk

Red tartan tie, £50, blue tartan shirt, £80, navy blazer, £450, blue jeans, £100, small green and tan briefcase, £490, burgundy spot silk square, £25

Mr. Classic Photographer: Peter Zownir

Fashion Editor:

Lucie Dodds 63

Blue tartan check shirt, £100, red tartan bow-tie, £50, cream trousers, £100, grey tweed waistcoat, £150, small green and tan briefcase, £490, large wheel green and tan suitcase, £750

Grey check shirt, £100, grey rib silk tie, £65 Fair Isle grey jumper, £125, grey/tan tweed jacket, £400, burgundy spot cotton square £25, orange cord trousers, £120

Cream button cardigan, ÂŁ250 and cream/brown herringbone scarf, ÂŁ100

Check shirt, £90, blue/grey knit stripe tie, £45, navy/grey shawl collar cardigan, £160, blue jeans, £100

White collared blue stripe button down shirt, £90, green rib silk tie, £65, grey Fair Isle shawl collar jumper, £170 tan/burgundy check jacket £400, cream trousers, £100

All available from Hackett New Store Opening in September Cabot Place Canary Wharf 020 7939 6865 www.hackett.com Grooming: Yvette Redmond at Tiger Creative using

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The Oldfield

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Celebrating his 60th birthday this July, Bruce Oldfield OBE – the man who designed Samantha Cameron’s wedding dress – talks to Claire Adler about his calming effect on bridezillas, red carpet blunders (not his), and his favourite clients

his year Bruce Oldfield celebrates 35 years as a top fashion designer to the rich and famous, plus many of the crown heads of Europe. His spectacular rise has seen him make his way from a Barnardo’s orphanage to his own Knightsbridge showrooms, conquering cancer – and a couple of recessions – on the way. His all-ages client list spans American country pop singer Taylor Swift, Sienna Miller, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Joan Collins. As Barnardo’s most famous son, today Oldfield is vice-president of the charity. He has also scooped up three honorary doctorates, the most recent awarded in 2009, an OBE for services to fashion and industry, and he is a former trustee of the Royal Academy. Oldfield recently launched his own range of engagement rings and late last year opened his second boutique on Beauchamp Place – a bridal salon where, alongside dreamy, sculpted, sweeping dresses, clients can also choose from small editions of quality silver, china, glass, linen and stationery. The publicist has told me the interview is to be about Bruce’s forthcoming 60th birthday. But as we sit down in the dressing room above the bridal boutique off Knightsbridge, Oldfield, in his dark jeans, crisp white shirt and perfectly tailored navy jacket teamed with bright, fresh red Converse shoes, appears rather reluctant to be entering his seventh decade. He says it sounds so “old”. I suggest “60 is the new 20, or something”. But he needn’t worry. Architect Oscar Niemeyer is still hard at work and he’s in his 90s. In any case, maybe it’s freak lighting, but today this British institution doesn’t look a day older than 45.

Oldfield’s mother was a young married Irish woman who struggled with epilepsy and his father was a Jamaican boxer. Oldfield spent the first six months of his life suffering from gastroenteritis at Great Ormond Street Hospital, was fostered till age 13, and spent the next four years at a Barnardo’s home in Yorkshire. While growing up, his guardian didn’t know how to explain his origins to him. He finally told him that his mother was married when he was born, but not to his father. Oldfield’s childhood records reveal when he was aged eight that his foster mother, a dressmaker, believed Bruce would be a fashion designer. “Expectations for children at Barnardo’s were very low. They thought children would end up either working in a factory, the armed forces or in jail,” says Oldfield, who went on to fail art O Level twice and initially trained to be a teacher. But Oldfield graduated in 1973 from St Martin’s School of Art to critical acclaim, and staged a one-man show for Fifth Avenue boutique Henri Bendel that same year. So, does he think people who have a rough start in life are in a better position to scale the heights of success later? “No,” he says, smiling. “It’s a combination of a tough beginning and the personality. People say I’m driven, I say I’m pushy.” And does he think that combination helped him fight cancer? “I don’t know really,” he says. “I guess you could say at 60, I’ve done quite a bit. I’ve ticked things off the list.” Oldfield’s biological parents have both now passed on and he never met them. But did they know who he was? “My mother died in 1975 aged 51. I had been featured in Vogue by then.

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As Barnardo’s most famous son, today Oldfield is vicepresident of the charity. He has also scooped up three honorary doctorates, the most recent awarded in 2009, and an OBE for services to fashion and industry

Perhaps my mother read Vogue?” he wonders. Today, Oldfield is in touch with his half-brother and niece, Rebecca Oldfield, an actress. Last year, Oldfield was featured in the Daily Mail, lamenting the scarcity of women under 50 who carry themselves with style. “Women over 50 have an upbringing rooted in grooming. Some brides come here wanting to go down the aisle in denim,” he says, citing a recent client who was about to sign on a venue in East London’s fashionable Hoxton – Oldfield initially can’t remember the name of the neighbourhood and mistakenly calls it Hoxstead. “But common sense always prevails in the end. We see some Bridezillas and lots of changing minds and capriciousness. But I’ve been cultivating the avuncular part of my personality. My fitters help to calm everyone and the brides often end up calling me Uncle Bruce.” The almostHoxton bride ultimately opted for the safest venue in London – Claridges.

While Kelly Brook wore a Bruce Oldfield gown at the Oscars last year, Oldfield says that all too often at similar red carpet events, very young girls simply want to wear the most revealing dresses and that, behind the scenes, stylists take bribes. “Sometimes, when looking at Hello! magazine, I have an urge to give some women a makeover,” he says. “Lady Diana Spencer was a kind of awkward little Sloane Ranger – she got gorgeous later on,” he has been quoted as saying of his possibly most high-profile client. Oldfield says his “first posh client” was Lady Annabel Astor, David Cameron’s mother-in-law. His first bridal client was in 1975 – Irene Forte, a descendant of the Forte hotel dynasty, who had her wedding at the Great Room in Park Lane’s Grosvenor House Hotel, with “1,000 of her closest friends,” according to Oldfield. Today, Oldfield’s clients are the big spenders of the day, “the aristocrats of finance, carpet supplies and car dealerships” and he continues to attract a new generation of celebrities, which includes Princess Diana’s niece, Kitty Spencer. Yet Oldfield says women aged between 35 and 45 are his best clients. “There is something about that time. It’s when women are usually at their most confident, their most refined. They listen to my objectivity and they know which parts to leave at home.” n

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weddings

concierge

Aisle Style As stores begin to put out their winter collections, now is a perfect time to start looking for the ultimate wedding dress

V Clockwise above: Jet Set by Ian Stuart, www.ianstuart-bride.com Lizzie by Stephanie Allin, 020 7486 7310, www.stephanieallin.net An American in Paris by Stewart Parvin, 020 7838 9808 www.stewartparvin.com

intage is everywhere right now, on the catwalks and in the home, and bridal wear is no different. For a new take on the ever-popular strapless silhouette, opt for shoulder detailing and asymmetric oneshoulder styles stepping straight off the catwalk. Add a bold pearl bracelet on the opposite wrist to balance. Draped off the shoulder straps adorned with bows or embellishments are sure to make the shoulder the new focal point this season. If this is where you’re thinking of going make sure that you check out Stephanie Allin’s Marylebone store where elegant silhouettes and sophisticated shoulder details abound. Body contour styles are gracing the international runways and this trend influences the latest bridal style, with sleek styles, elegant columns and emphasis on the waist, with many designers featuring corset style tops and bow or brooch detailing. Stewart Parvin’s couture range boasts some fabulous floor skimming gowns in classic shapes not to mention Stewart’s legendary corseted construction for the perfect fit. His American in Paris is a wonderful example of the latest styling with detail at the waist, fitted bodice and full skirt. Another hot bridal trend for this year is the mini-wedding dress, perfect for the City bride or the bride who would like to change into a second wedding dress for the reception. Look out for Ian Stuart’s 1950s glamour mini dress. Bridal dresses are always romantic but this year the texture of draping, ruffles and flower details intensify the theme. Tulle (or netting) is a key fabric in this year’s bridal catwalk collection, alongside transparent layering. Look out for dresses with ruffled tiers from the waist down or the bottom of the gowns (these ruffles add texture and movement to the dresses). Celebrity favourite, Bruce Oldfield’s Morgan dress is a great example.

concierge weddings

As you can see the most dominant colour in bridal dresses remains ivory as it has for the last decade and rather than splash out with bold colours (deep reds can be seen as winter favourites) accessorise with some beautiful handmade feature pieces. In the current climate, small veils, jewelled hair slides, statement had bands and fascinators are favoured over grandiose pomp. In line with the 1950s inspiration traditional Jackie O style pillbox hats and short gloves are all over the catwalks bringing Old Hollywood glamour back to the fore. The final piece of the jigsaw is the flowers; the most popular for the bouquet are ivory and vintage pink roses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a clear winner this year and for the last couple of years. The trend for 2010 is small hand-wired posy with very small, expensive flowers finished with satin ribbon, lace or brooches. The bouquet is now being thought of as an essential accessory. n

Main picture: Morgan by Bruce Oldfield, www.bruceoldfield.com Above: Charlotte hair flower by Chez Bec, 0845 652 0892, www.chezbec.com

14 MOTCOMB STREET LONDON SW1 T. 020 7235 1125 WWW.STEWARTPARVIN.COM

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In fact, Karin is so committed to providing her customers with the best in chic and flattering modern design, that if she can’t find the perfect jacket, top or skirt to add to the collection in the boutique, she will get it designed to her discerning and knowledgeable customers. Hot off the fashion press, this season Belle has commissioned and will be stocking a luxurious, limited edition signature coat created exclusively for the boutique by local designer Ella Sharpe. Woven in charcoal grey, the retro vintage cashmere-mix coat, comes with a detachable collar.

belle

of the ball A chic and independent women’s wear boutique in the heart of Greenwich, Belle has come to be a unique and much loved feature of this cultural and historic area

Housed in a beautiful Georgian building

savvy shop managed Ruth. Both are

on College Approach, the sumptuous

dedicated to making their customers

and welcoming interior of the Belle

look fabulous and act as trusted style

fashion boutique is decorated with

advisors to many of their customers.

antique furniture, chandeliers and

Karin feels it is this close and mutually

full-length mirrors, reminiscent of a

respectful relationship between her

boudoir. Belle sits in the centre of

and her customers that really marks

Greenwich’s most interesting attractions

Belle out, commenting: “We always

and shopping areas, only minutes from

listen. We don’t make assumptions,

the Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich

we get to know our customers.

DLR (and not much further from Canary

Sure, we will encourage a lady to

Wharf), making it a convenient and

be experimental and try something

integral part of a visit to one of London’s

different, you know, encourage her

hottest spots.

individuality – perhaps she doesn’t

This wonderful little gem of a boutique

realise what great arms she has and

is founded and owned by Karin

that she can afford to show them off

Tearle, who makes it her business

or which cut of dress is going to make

to provide customers with a great

her curves ooze with sex appeal”.

selection of fashion from outstanding

This personal and style savvy service

contemporary labels from around the

means that at the start of each season,

world. Karin searches out the best

Karin and Ruth will even call customers

that London, Europe and the US have

to let them know which of their

to offer in casual wear, office wear,

favourite labels have arrived in store,

evening and accessories and the

happily reserving pieces and seeking

result is a boutique filled with carefully

out different sizes where possible. Belle

chosen, very special items, each

gives loyal customers a VIP discount

characterized by wonderful fabrics,

and will open its doors earlier or close

flattering cuts and eye catching detail.

them a little later for those who need to

Karin can be found in the boutique

make an appointment to fit in around

on most days, along with her fashion

their busy schedule.

Amongst the great international labels currently stocked at Belle are Sita Murt, European Culture, Velvet and Paige Jeans, Francoise Pendville, Karen Cole and new label Oscar, with its flattering maxi dresses. Belle 20 College Approach Greenwich SE10 9HY 020 8465 5777 www.bellefashion.co.uk

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Bridal Bliss To preserve your wedding dress and all its precious memories, it’s essential you have it cleaned and stored by specialists to prevent fading and damage Efendi is a specialist dry cleaner based in the heart of Canary Wharf, renowned for cleaning the most delicate and detailed wedding dresses to the highest of standards, so that you can relax in the knowledge that your special gown will be exquisitely cleaned, pressed and packaged using the safest methods possible. This service extends to shoes and veils also. Furthermore, Efendi’s stunning bridal chests use the most advanced acid-free tissue, certified by the Natural History Museum as the best way to protect and preserve delicate garments. Efendi also offers all kinds of alterations and repairs, as well as customising your dress to your request. Ensure your dress receives the finest craftsmanship with Efendi’s dedicated and experienced staff, who’ll always give your dress the special attention it deserves. Don’t trust any dry cleaner with your special gown, trust Efendi to make your dress and memories remain timeless. Efendi Dry Cleaners, Mezzanine Level, Jubilee Place Canary Wharf London E14 5NY www.efendi.co.uk

weddings

concierge

Engaging conversation These days it is a brave man who goes out and chooses his fiancé’s engagement ring for her. Gemmologist Jason-Paul Hirsh of Hirsh London passes on a few hints and tips based on a family history of playing cupid

hoosing an engagement ring is perhaps the second biggest decision that one can make in their life, the first is choosing your partner for life. A great salesperson should be able to help you choose the style of the ring if you can provide even just basic information such as the colour of her hair, eyes and the shape of her hands. If you decide to propose and then go ring shopping just know that you might be leaving your financial comfort zone. You know what you can afford and while we endeavour to try to find the right budget we are unable to stop the reflexes when the heart is involved. ‘Ohhh darling but I like that one’ can easily cost you double your initial budget. When it comes to the 4c’s (colour, cut, clarity and carat weight), most will tell you how important they are when choosing the perfect diamond. What the 4c’s actually represent are different prices to the consumer. The difference between a 1ct DIF Excellent Excellent round brilliant cut and a 0.95 GSi1 Good Good round brilliant cut can be several thousand pounds, that is for two diamonds that look identical to the naked eye. It certainly takes a bit of the romance from choosing the stone, you should be able to see what makes a diamond beautiful, all the light should reflect back to you like the brightest mirror and that is special. In the past few years, we have seen a much higher demand for precious colour stones especially emeralds, sapphires and natural pink and yellow diamonds. Few actually realise that there are more natural colour diamonds than there are colours of the rainbow. Certain stones suit certain people and while there are those that think they should only buy a diamond, sit back and wonder why. Could it all be because of advertising? If Coca Cola made Santa wear red then it’s pretty plausible that women want diamonds because of the many adverts for diamonds in the last few decades. They are a girl’s best friend after all!

Look back in history, however, and you will find that antique engagement rings with sapphires, rubies and emeralds held equal footing with the mighty diamond and that provides quite a wide spectrum of choice for finding your perfect engagement ring. The most important question is how to propose and while great ideas like putting the ring in a champagne glass or getting down on bended knee might seem clichéd, one must understand the nerves and pressure faced with the task of actually asking someone to marry you. I have always kept a list of some great way’s to propose that are a little out of the ordinary but the best was from a customer of mine in Toronto, who asked me what he should do? I told him to take her on a helicopter ride over the nearby Niagara falls, instead he got all his employees together in the park and they all held up a letter spelling “Shernee, will you marry me!” as they hovered in a helicopter above. Certainly better than when I blurted out some Swedish gibberish to my wife (hoping her sister had actually taught me the right phrase), but they both worked and thank fully “Vill du gifta dig med mig” did actually mean will you marry me…and she said yes! n For further information, visit www.hirshlondon.com

Above:

Bellisima Setting Engagement Ring by Hirsh, POA www.hirsh.co.uk

of the best A wedding day demands complete perfection from the outset. From understated elegance to glittering grandeur, make your Big Day even more special with our pick of five beautiful venues to suit your own style HeArt oF tHe City Steeped in unique history, the trafalgar tavern is quite simply a tribute to old London and one of the capital’s most

Wedding

venues

unique wedding venues. the grand space of the Nelson Banqueting rooms overlooks the thames, offering stunning views of the City to complement the plush surroundings. this evocative late regency gem combined with the flexibility of its wedding package makes it an ideal choice. What’s more, the illustrious tavern also has a Civil Wedding Licence for up to 200 people. 020 8305 3091 www.trafalgartavern.co.uk

PerioD PerFeCtioN Situated above the colonnaded entrance to Greenwich Market and built in 1832, Clarence Hall is a former music hall that has been lovingly renovated to provide a glorious venue for a wedding reception. the doubleheight splendour of what was the main auditorium has been accentuated and sprinkled with eye-catching adornments. the main bar’s back-lit panels are complemented by a pair of Anthony Stern hand-blown coloured glass chandeliers, giving this historic venue a fresh and intimate feel. 020 8858 2437 www.clarencehall.uk.com

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RiveRside RevelRy set at the top of an amazing lighthouse-style building designed by the legendary Philippe starck, the Battery Restaurant & Bar combines spectacular panoramic views across the City and docklands, stunning interiors and a fabulous modern european menu. if it’s understated chic you’re looking for, then this beautifully refurbished venue, with its floor to ceiling glass walls on three sides, definitely ticks all the boxes. Completing this truly one-of-a-kind offering is the Canary Wharf Pier immediately outside giving you the option to arrive by river for a special day that’s even more memorable. 020 8305 3089 www.battery.uk.com

ClassiC Cool Tompkins is a stylish new restaurant and bar set within the stunning Pan Peninsula development. divided into four main areas: a bar, restaurant, lounge and mezzanine bar, the interior has been designed to create an intimate, homely feel, with both eclectic and dramatic elements, incorporating an eight metre-long, bronze-fronted bar, bespoke Tom dixon chandeliers and a Foscarini cloud mural. This stunning restaurant and bar is suitable for up to 200 guests and also boasts a spectacular outside terrace, the largest waterside entertaining space in the whole of the area. 020 8305 3080 www.tompkins.uk.com

WinTeR WondeRland The east Wintergarden is a prestigious wedding venue at the heart of Canary Wharf. licensed for civil ceremonies, civil partnerships, parties, receptions, wedding breakfasts and much more, the lavish venue prides itself on catering for all communities, religions and nationalities. Whether you have 40 or 500 guests, The east Wintergarden’s magnificent 27 metre high, glass arched ceiling and the italian marble floor, combine to create a spectacular backdrop for your special day. opposite is Jubilee Park, with its beautiful ornamental water features, providing a matchless environment for photographs. 020 7418 2775 www.eastwintergarden.com

Conditions Treated: • Head Injuries • Spinal Injuries • Stroke • Rehabilitation following Amputation • Rehabilitation following Critical Illness • Functional Restoration Programmes

Neuro Rehabilitation Unit The Wellington Hospital Acute Neurological Rehabilitation Unit is a private facility dedicated to providing the highest standard of care. The Unit comprises of a 46 bedded facility with extensive gym and treatment areas. In 2009 at our sister Hospital The Portland we opened a dedicated Acute Neurological Rehabilitation Unit for Children. Both Units provide individualised rehabilitation programmes, which are Consultant led and delivered by our multidisciplinary team of experts. For further information on both units please contact the Wellington Hospital Rehabilitation Business Office: Tel: Fax:

The Team comprises of the following professions: • Consultants • Dieticians • Discharge Co-ordinator • Language Interpreters • Neurophysiotherapists • Neuropsychologists • Occupational Therapists • Paediatric Intensivists • Paediatric Play Specialists • Rehabilitation Advisors • Rehabilitation Nurses • Residential Medical Officer • Speech and Language Therapists

020 7586 2462 / 020 7483 5349 020 7586 2462

Or visit the websites: www.thewellingtonhospital.com www.theportlandhospital.com Wellington Place, St Johns Wood, London NW8 9LE

5341 WELL Rehab Canary Wharf Ad.indd 1

21/1/10 09:53:59

health & beauty

concierge

muSt have Item: kukuI oIl By ConnoCk london

health & beauty

news Benevolent Beauty

Beauty is about feeling good about yourself, and what better way of doing so than adding a little goodwill into your grooming routine? This month, Tweezerman launches the limited edition Pink Ribbon Slant® tweezer in support of Breast Cancer Campaign. Featuring Tweezerman’s much-celebrated precision plucking technology, and the Pink Ribbon incorporated into a stylish design, £2 from each item will be donated to Breast Cancer Campaign. Macmillan Cancer Support and TONI & GUY have also teamed up to create the new Strength in Style service. Now available in TONI & GUY Canary Wharf, this innovative and altruistic move aims to offer specialist support and advice on hair care for women, men and children affected by cancer.

Connock London’s new launch is based on the ever-fashionable kukui oil. Sourced from Hawaii, the oil has been used there for centuries to keep skin smooth and soft, and has become increasingly sought after for its great skin conditioning properties. The oil can improve skin texture, elasticity and even sooth minor skin irritations. WWW.BeautIque.Com

tonI&Guy Canary Wharf Canada Square, Canary Wharf 020 7987 6222 WWW.tWeezerman.Co.uk

treatment of the month: BRAZILIAN

BLOW DRY

The Brazilian Blow Dry at the Anita Cox Chelsea salon is one of the hottest new treatments around. The intensive treatment softens and straightens hair, leaving you with a long-lasting, silky smooth finish, as if an expert has styled your hair each morning. The treatment works by injecting pure keratin into the hair (found naturally in nails, skin and hair) to restructure and strengthen from within. After the keratin has completely soaked in, special extra hot keratin straighteners are used to lock in the frizz-fighting formula and leave your hair feeling manageable and immaculate, without flattening its natural shape and texture. As the treatment is semi-permanent, lasting up to three months, it will also shave a significant amount of time off your daily grooming routine, making it easy, even effortless to knock your hair into shape each morning. Brazilian Blow Dry Treatment Anita Cox Chelsea, 55 Old Church St, SW3 5BS 020 7751 4527 www.anitacox.co.uk

HOW tO:

Get larGer lookInG eyeS ‘Bigger, Brighter Eyes in an Instant’ Fall 2010 Colour Collection is Clinique’s newest launch, designed to create a wide-eyed and wonderful look, with the help of a few special items that will make a great addition to your new season’s make-up bag. Start by giving your brows a groomed and shapely curve with the Instant Lift for Brows, a clever little tool that will also let you fill in brows and add a sweep of highlighter along the brow bone, to create a lifted, youthful look. The Colour Surge Eye Shadow Duos come in three on-trend tones: Beach Plum, Like Mink and Blackberry Frost, and are great to shade, highlight, line and contour the eye area, providing an infinite number of flattering looks. Finish off with a sweep of the new, limited edition High Impact Mascara, clinically proven to make eyes appear three times brighter, and in a deep black shade to contrast with and brighten the whites of your eyes. WWW.ClInIque.Co.uk

Brought to you in association with The Wellington Hospital, one of the world’s leading private hospitals. www.thewellingtonhospital.com

concierge health & beauty

Scent ON THE

As the summer sun wanes and autumn draws near, we find the perfect perfumes to encapsulate the spirit and tone of this transitional time of year

AFTER DARK This autumn, Estée Lauder launches Sensuous Noir; a new perfume that creates a deliciously dark and intense image of feminine sensuality. Designed to be worn after dark, Sensuous Noir will envelope you with an aura of enticing and inviting mystery with this soft, seductive and unmistakeably luxurious blend. Scent Notes: Exotic Purple Rose, Rose Essence, Spiced Lily, Jasmine, Black Pepper, Vanilla, Amber and Honey

Scent notes: Rose, Jasmine, Vanilla, Patchouli and Amber

www.esteelauder.co.uk

www.dior.com

ENGLISH ROMANCE Inspired by the last great English Romantic poet Keats’ ode ‘To Autumn’, the newest scent from Jo Malone captures that fleeting moment of when the last days of summer are edged with fresh, clear autumnal airs. English Pear & Freesia launches this month.

GOLDEN GIRL Echoing the love of luxury and the careful construction of a Dior Haute Couture gown, Dior’s new fragrance J’adore L’Or takes its essence of being from the most precious of metals: gold. Made with the finest raw materials this exquisite fragrance has exceptional intensity and a burning golden colour thanks to its uniquely rich concentration.

FOR QUEEN AND COUNTRY Quintessentially English perfumers Penhaligon’s originally created Jubilee Bouquet in 1977 to honour the Silver Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth. Now back on their luxurious shelves this enchanting floral chypre is light, fresh, elegant and charming.

Scent Notes: King William Pear, White Freesia and Patchouli

Scent Notes: Bergamot, Chamomile, Clove, Jasmine, Violet, Ylang, Iris, Rose, Sandalwood, Musk, Moss and Amber

www.jomalone.co.uk

www.penhaligons.com

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how to win Please send your name, address and the title of the magazine you would like to subscribe to: subscribe@runwildgroup.co.uk Terms & conditions: Entry is open to residents of the UK except employees (and their families) of Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) and Runwild Media Group, its printers and agents, the suppliers of the prizes and any other companies associated with the competitions. The editors decision is final. By entering this competition you agree to your details being used by Runwild Media Group for marketing purpose. Please see www.runwildmediagroup.com/ subscriptions for full terms and conditions.

Simply by subscribing to this magazine for free Small Luxury Hotels of the World is an unsurpassed collection of over 500 hotels spanning more than 70 countries, which together offer an infinite variety of experiences. Whatever your inclination, Small Luxury Hotels of the World is guaranteed to have that exclusive hotel with its own unique character and charm. For reservations visit www.slh.com

concierge education

EDUCATION,

EDUCATION

We take a closer look at this summer’s exam results

A-LEVEL

GCSE

As predicted, A-level pass rates this summer rose to another record high of 97.6 per cent - and 27 per cent of entries achieved an A, intensifying the competition for university places, both this year and for prospective undergraduates next year. Overall, the A-level pass rate rose for the 28th year running, increasing by 0.1 per cent from 97.5 per cent who passed at grades A to E in 2009. Schools minister Nick Gibb defended students against claims that exams were becoming easier, saying: “There’s no question that whether you take an A-level today, or whether you took it 28 years ago, it all requires a lot of work. Any student you talk to who’s sat their A-levels this summer will tell you that over two years they’ve had to work incredibly hard to achieve the grades that they’ve achieved today. To achieve an A* or a B in the A-level requires a huge amount of hard work.” This year also sees the addition of the A* grade which has been introduced for those attaining the highest marks (+90 per cent in second year exams) – and this summer just over 8 per cent of the entries were awarded the new grade. The A* grade is meant to help the most competitive universities select the best candidates, but leading universities are divided over whether to use this as a reliable indicator. Among the Russell Group, Cambridge has made A*AA its standard offer in most subjects, while Imperial has requested it in seven courses, UCL in four and Warwick in just one. Oxford, has not used the A* in offers due to a concern over the accuracy of teachers’ predictions. Gibb also defended the new grade saying “The A* grade represents genuine top-level attainment. The most competitive universities have long wanted to differentiate between top-performing students. The previous government introduced the A* to help them do this. It is now down to universities to decide how they use it.”

Like A-level results, the overall pass rate for GCSEs rose again this year, for the 23rd year running, to 69.1 per cent. The results showed a rise in the numbers of candidates sitting science subjects, with Biology up 28 per cent, Chemistry up 32 per cent and Physics up 32 per cent from 2009. In the results released last month, overall girls still did better than boys, with a pass rate of 72.6 per cent at A* to C compared with 65.4 per cent for boys. The gap in passes between the sexes is slightly wider this year than last, when girls achieved 70.5 per cent of passes compared with 63.6 per cent for boys. However, this trend of girls outperforming boys, which has lasted for the past two decades, could be reversed as soon as next year, as boys beat girls at GCSE Maths for the second year in a row, following the decision to drop coursework. One of the most notable changes in the GCSE system this year has been the drop in coursework for several subjects. The coursework modules have been replaced with ‘controlled assessments’ which are extended tasks sat under supervision, but with notes permitted for assistance. The decision to remove coursework came after many schools and exam boards showed concerns over plagiarism. From 2011 onwards, 25 per cent of marks in History and Geography will come from controlled assessment, and 60 per cent of marks in Foreign Languages, Music and Art. A spokeswoman for the exam board AQA, considering flexible learning options, said that “Although some research suggests that boys prefer traditional exams and girls prefer coursework, this will not always be the case, so the idea of flexibility is really aimed at tailoring exams to meet the requirements of the curriculum by addressing individual learning needs.” n

declare your

independence

Small independent luxury hotels. Memorable experiences.

Small Luxury Hotels of the Worldâ&#x201E;˘ Book your winter beach escape at www.slh.com/beachescapes

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THE ARTCORPORATE GIVING As Chistmas nears the horizon, we begin to think of gift giving and the merry office party and for those in charge of the corporate giftgiving the imminent stresses of choosing the right gift for the right person. Enter Harrods Corporate Service, your personal helper 1.

Companies that offer corporate gift-giving services abound, but they all seem to have their specialism; hampers, candles, cufflinks... What if there was just one company that you could turn to this year? And have a whole variety of gifts to choose from? Everyone knows of Harrods; world renowned and the largest store in the UK. Everyone also knows the impact that the mossy green and gold bags have on people. So, with over one million square feet of selling space, 330 departments and the luxury Harrods name, it’s a great place to go for your Christmas shopping. And there’s no reason that corporate shopping should be any different – there’s a whole team of people dedicated to the service (which is commission free). Working to all price bands as well as mixed levels of price brands the team takes a bespoke perspective on delivering your company’s perfect gifts. Briefs can be delivered by email, a phone call or a store visit and once received, the team sets to work to create a hand-picked selection of bespoke products for you to choose from. Our favourites and the most popular are the gourmet Harrods food and wine hampers, which are always a great hit. This Christmas, though, there are also offerings from Daylesford Organic, Caffé Florian, Jo Malone and Mungo & Maud, all exclusively with Harrods. Thus, you can get the trusted Harrods service with other luxury brands.

But there’s more than just hampers, there’s five floors to choose from. For the high-flying gentleman there’s fashion and accessories, gadgets and gizmos; from Hermès ties to fine watches, from F1-insired carbon briefcases to stingray skin cigar cases. For businesswomen everywhere there’s classic Tiffany & Co pieces, Christian Louboutin’s latest creations, Crème de la Mer and Montblanc pens. And for those who want the choosing of the gift to be the treat, the Harrods Gift Card can be loaded with a sum of your choice – from £10 to £10,000 which can be spent throughout the store as well as on the lifestyle experiences in the store, from facials to dining. The card is a simple and fuss free way to work without losing any of the impact. (It also makes a great incentive scheme for employees throughout the year.)

Gift giving is an art in itself to get right and corporate gift-giving even harder. That’s why the Harrods Corporate Service Team is on hand to help you to take the hard work out of gift-giving this Christmas. For further information, contact the team on 020 7225 5994 or email corporate.service@harrods.com

1. The Harrods Gift Card (from £10

to £10,000) provide a desirable and fuss-free gift alternative

2. The Chelsea (£65) is a chic but affordable hamper offering a selection of favourite treats for the season including Colombian fine ground coffee, iced Christmas cake and festive bauble

3. The Daylesford Complete Larder

(£275) is everything you could need for Christmas: handmade cakes, chutneys and conserves, cheese, Prosecco and crackers

4. Tumi’s Croc Briefcase (£2,895) is finished in gold-brushed dark leather and incorporates an inner pocket for iPad

5. Jo Malone’s Lime, Basil & Mandarin collection gift set (£259) includes two colognes, body lotion, shower gel, body crème and home candle

6. Flip Mino 2HD Video Camera (£179.99) is the world’s sleekest HD camcorder with 120 minutes of record time and a two-inch antiglare display

R-50-TN-AJ

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Must Visit: 100% Design

interiors

100% Design will celebrate its 16th birthday this year, returning to Earls Court for its annual showcase of world-class interior design. Over 4,000 new products will make up this year’s show, boasting specialist areas dedicated to unknown and sustainable materials (100% Materials), and new and emerging talent from around the globe and the UK (100% Futures) all under one roof. An absolute must on the London Design Festival calendar, be sure not to pass this one by.

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Decorex

Traditionally reserved for the top end of the design trade market, the fair will be open to the public on the afternoon of Tuesday 28 September, allowing you to rub shoulders with some of the most influential designers around and get a sneak peek at the best brands in the business. This year is set to be a particularly spectacular event, influenced by the eccentric tale of Alice in Wonderland. Expect a very fitting, yet wacky, events calendar, including a Mad Hatter’s Tea Party complete with underground warrens and oversized furniture; an optical illusion display by international design duo Herme y Monica in their portrayal of Through The Looking Glass in the VIP area, and a much-publicised Hermès-designed helicopter sited just outside the marquee. With over 240 exhibitors showcasing new products and designs at this year’s show and a jam-packed seminar program, you’d be mad to miss it! 26–29 September 2010, Royal Hospital Chelsea, London SW3 020 7921 8408, www.decorex.com

23–26 September 2010, Earls Court, London 01923 690 640, www.100percentdesign.co.uk

Must buy: Origin:

The London Craft Fair

Scorpion Lamp, £985, Ochre at Decorex

23–29 September 2010 Old Spitalfields Market Brushfield Street London E1 6EW 020 7739 5561, www.originuk.org

Outrace, Trafalgar Square

London Design Festival The most important event in the interior design calendar will take place this September. A major cultural and commercial event, London Design Festival 2010 will set the capital alight with an everexpanding array of activities, events and workshops. With major commissions and exhibitions planned for the festival focal point at the V&A, Trafalgar Square and the Southbank Centre, visitors can look forward to taking in the 200plus partner events and beautiful design districts right here in the centre of London. One event that is sure to get your attention is the Audi commissioned Outrace, a huge mechanical

Stop press! Origin will relocate to the newly refurbished Old Spitalfields Market this year, making an exciting new addition to London Design Festival 2010. Presented by Tent London for the Crafts Council, this annual showcase of original contemporary craft will bring together 220 makers, offering visitors a chance to buy directly from the stands on show. Perfect for those seeking one-off handmade pieces, the fair runs for a whole week, so make sure you pencil the event into your busy diaries.

octopus that will reside in Trafalgar Square over the festival’s duration. Six industrial robotic arms from Audi’s production line and some of nifty custom-made software will make this installation a fully interactive event. The public will be able to text in messages that will be transformed into light traces drawn by these synchronised mechanical tentacles, sending your scriptures to the sky above London’s Trafalgar Square. A great way to get involved in one of the capital’s leading artistic events, I’m sure this will prove a lot of fun too! 18–26 September 2010 020 7734 6444, www.londondesignfestival.com

autumn promotion:

10% off across the collection

Must see:

Tent London If it’s new and it’s hip, then you’ll see it first at Tent London. Set to be the biggest exhibition of lighting, furniture and interior collections yet, newcomers and returning designers will collaborate on some of the most impressive exhibits you’ll see this year. Go on, be the envy of your friends and take something truly special home that you’ll be boasting about for ages... 23–26 September 2010, Truman Brewery Brick Lane, London E1 020 7739 5561, www.tentlondon.co.uk

city 37-39 Commercial Road, London E1. Tel: 020 7426 9670 www.ligne-roset-city.co.uk

the trend Sim Smith uncovers quirky ideas for a Surrealist inspired hallway, perfect for those looking for something that little bit different

60-0004 Cala chair in cream from £1,524, Christopher Guy 020 7348 7366 , www.christopherguy.com

Acrylic glass, coated wood and yarn 365 Knitting Clock by Siren Elise Wilhelmsen, POA +49 177 682 6842, www.sirenelisewilhelmsen.com

Blue Absinthe scented candle, $38, Delirium & Co 00 1 888 656 3903, www.candledelirium.com Bakelight phone lamp in black, from £550 Alex Randall, www.alexrandall.co.uk

Bone and horn tiles in black and white £650 a square metre, De Ferranti 020 7384 4424, www.deferranti.com

interiors

concierge

Skulls wallpaper in black from the Flock Collection by Barbara Hulanicki, £60 per role Graham & Brown, 0800 3288 452 www.grahambrown.com Fine bone china Maurice-Poirot Moustache mug £11.95, Peter Ibruegger 07786 692433, www.peteribruegger.com

Hand woven wool aubusson Moghul rug by Katrin Cargill, £2,860, The Rug Company 020 7229 5148, www.therugcompany.info

Pig table 01483 209 350, www.moooi.com Surrealism, Movements in Modern Art Series by Fiona Bradley, £8.95, Tate Shop, www.tate.org.uk

Plywood and timber Wrong Woods low cabinet £1,980, Established & Sons 020 7608 0990, www.establishedandsons.com

concierge interiors

the address book Sim Smith enjoys a selfish afternoon on Marylebone High Street

Daunt books One of the best bookshops I’ve ever visited, Daunt’s does not disappoint the reader, researcher or interiors enthusiast. Set right in the middle of Marylebone High Street, Daunt’s is somewhat of a landmark here, a shop steeped in tradition and a sanctuary for those wanting to escape the hustle and bustle outside. Famed for its original Edwardian roots, not much has been changed here in terms of its interior composition. Beautiful dark oak shelves line every wall, filled with books spanning everything from history to biography, fiction and, of course, travel for which it has gained a specialist reputation. Its gargantuan proportions and quiet reading corners could mislead you into thinking it was a library. Arranged over three floors, including a beautiful galleried landing, the shop is flooded with natural sunlight and decorated with original brass light fittings hanging from above. Antique tables are dotted all around, from the children’s room on the ground floor to the underbelly of the shop downstairs, displaying favourite reads and must-buys personally recommended by their staff. Comfortable chairs are also provided, enticing you to sit down and leaf through your latest find. My advice would be to sit by the stunning stained glass window to the back of the shop, while away a couple of hours and escape the 21st century for a while. 83/84 Marylebone HigH street, 020 7224 2295, www.Dauntbooks.co.uk

DescaMps I can’t help but pop in when walking past Descamps. Usually lured in by luxurious window displays, I can spend longer than I’d like to admit browsing through shelves packed with fine linen throws and soft silk pillows. What I like about this shop in particular is that it’s light and airy, with architectural materials such as zinc, washed oak and enamelled metal perfectly juxtaposed against the tactile soft furnishings on show. Expertly positioned on a large corner plot, daylight fills the shop even on the gloomiest of days. Inside, installation like lighting hangs in the form of large conch shells set low over long tables, with delicate rays seeping out from backlit ceiling panels. The range of products on show is all-encompassing in colour, style and design. The company produces two annual collections across bed linen, towelling, beach, accessories, and Petit Descamps (the baby range). My coveted buy of the season is one of the beautiful dressing gowns that can be found at the back of the shop, delicately hung on doors of the pale grey wardrobes that seem to house the most gorgeous collections of loungewear. Now, do I want mine to fasten with silk ribbon or edged in linen? Oh yes – I forgot to mention, they offer a bespoke service too, so if you really can’t find anything perfect in store, you can customise your own! 6 Marylebone HigH street, 020 7935 0070, www.DescaMps.co.uk

rococo The small, petrol-blue frontage of the shop frames its intricate little window display perfectly. Fine pink tulle fills the window in large, summery blooms embellished with tiny boxes of chocolates and sweets in Rococo’s signature blue and white packaging. Inside, the shop takes on a slight Alice In Wonderland feel with pretty dressers towering tall, lined with delectable violet wafers and classic marc de champagne truffles, all labelled in the founder’s dainty handwriting. Above hangs a huge glass chandelier, almost like a giant jellyfish hovering over the space in deep tones of amethyst and brilliant coral. Original parquet flooring leads you past delightful hampers sat on garden chairs with cushions printed in Rococo blue and white. Then you hit the chocolate bar, a demi-lune shaped design, showcasing the most beautiful array of handmade chocolates made from the highest quality cocoa beans and natural ingredients sourced from all over the world. Rococo’s trademark is quality ingredients and unusual flavour combinations, fuelled by an uncompromising passion for chocolate. If you share the company’s craze for all things cocoa, why not pop by their flagship store to the Rococo School of Chocolate in Knightsbridge, and sign up for a couple of classes for the ultimate Rococo experience? 45 Marylebone HigH street, 020 7935 7780, www.rocococHocolates.coM

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SEASON’S CHANGE Francesca Avossa, Ligne Roset’s creative consultant, has designed an exciting new layout in the City showroom to welcome the UK arrival of its stunning new collection

Ottoman comprises a two-seater sofa, a three-seater sofa, an armchair and a footstool

Oozing a strong architectural look, the TU table comes in a choice of folded, soldered steel bases finished in satin white, black or red lacquer, and also thick table tops in ebony-stained oak veneer, solid walnut, satin white or black laminate with natural oak edging

Celebrating its 150th anniversary during this year, Ligne Roset continues to be at the forefront of design and style innovation and the new season is no different, with products created by some of France’s most celebrated designers, including Inga Sempé’s upholstery range, Ruché; the Anneau armchair – one of Pierre Paulin’s last creations; the organic lines of the Ottoman quilted seating range by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance, and Philippe Nigro’s adaptable table base of the TU.

Its all-foam construction is sumptuous and sophisticated, with a strong synergy between the two injected foam cores of specific densities used to make the seat and back, and the additional Bultex foam attached around the periphery. These key elements altogether provide both comfort and durability.

Taking centre stage is Ruché by Inga Sempé. Slender and fine in appearance, Ruché combines rigidity and flexibility. Inspired by swing seats, Ruché is made from a solid beech frame finished in natural matt beech or beech-stained anthracite, red or blue with a distinctive quilted pad.

The beauty of Philippe Nigro’s TU table (Table Universelle, or ‘universal table’) lies with its practical and aesthetic qualities, which enable the user to ‘recycle’ any kind of table top already owned, whether the top has been used on a pair of old trestles, or an old door panel that is no longer functional as it is.

Alternately flattened by the stitches and set free, the quilting can ‘curl’ in places, giving rise to both its unique appearance and its name, Ruché (a gathered or pleated fabric which serves as decoration on a piece of clothing). Inspired by Morocco and with an overriding sense of well-being, Ottoman is the latest creation by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance.

The quilted seat is best seen in a plain fabric. Bicolour versions are also available, with the exterior and interior offered in different fabrics of tonal shades or contrasting materials.

Providing the maximum of flexibility with its customisable, sustainable and reversible qualities, TU is a refined and carefully crafted object, which bears all the hallmarks of a future design classic. In comparison to a traditional system of trestles, the stability is remarkable as the top is clamped firmly in place by the feet instead of simply resting on top, maintained by its weight alone. To find out more about the collection, the team at Ligne Roset City looks forward to welcoming you to the new City showroom – the UK’s largest showroom.

Ruché includes a medium and large sofa, one-arm sofa (left or right) and a footstool in a wide choice of fabrics and colours. Furthermore, the one-arm sofa comes with an integral table at the end of its seat, which can be used as a low table for books or drinks

Ligne Roset City 37–39 Commercial Road London, E1 1LF 020 7426 9670 www.ligne-roset-city.co.uk

design LONDON

When people think of London, they automatically think of it as a centre for art and design, and this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s London Design Festival is certain to reaffirm that view, assures Carol Cordrey

art & culture

Left: Outrace in Trafalgar Square by Kram and Weisshaar with Audi for LDF 2010 Right: Once Upon a Dream at Andaz Liverpool Street Hotel Below: Staircase installation at the V&A Museum

concierge

canarywharfmag_aug2010_Layout 1 20/08/2010 10:47 Page 1

Two years’ free servicing with Audi Approved Used Cars*

...at Docklands Audi At the region’s premier Audi Centre, there’s never been a better time to trade-up to an Audi Approved Used Car. As part of the Essex Audi Group, Docklands Audi can oﬀer an unparalleled choice of over 400 superbly presented and fully warranted Audi Approved Used Cars, from as little as £9,995. And if you buy one of our cars through Audi Finance, we can even give you free servicing for 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever comes ﬁrst).

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Docklands Audi

Marsh Wall, South Quay, Docklands E14 9SL Tel: 020 7536 0555

www.Essex-Audi.co.uk * Oﬀer applies on all models except Audi A8 and S8 and is subject to a minimum advance of £7,500 over a 24 month agreement with Audi Finance. Oﬀer ends 31st December 2010.

motoring interview gadgets

Abarth 500c bernie ecclestone ................................. latest & Greatest ..........................................................

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MAXIMUM FUN

B The Mazda MX-5 celebrates a big birthday this year; providing maximum fun for minimum outlay for 20 years

ack in 1989 the original Mazda MX-5 rewrote the rule book on twoseater roadsters, earning a place in the Guinness Book of Records as the all-time top seller in the segment. Now in its third-generation form, the MX-5 remains a clear evolution of the original and a clear hit for any petrol head – most of whom will have energetic tales to tell of their ownership Even Jeremy Clarkson likes it, stating that “... you get almost exactly the same amount of fun you would get from a Ferrari 430 Spider.” Whilst the latest generation came out to huge

trepidation followed by delight, making its UK debut at Goodwood this year was the MX-5 Superlight concept car; a topless, windscreenless, 144kg-less fully driveable concept, powered by a 125bhp, 1.8 litre MZR engine. Overall, it is a fun and extrovert character that distils essential driving pleasure. Whilst it hasn’t been confirmed for production, there’s a contingent looking for a fair-weather toy to add to their collection. n For further information, visit Romford Mazda, call 01708 735 735, or visit www.romfordmazda.co.uk

MALE

bONDiNG Abarth would like women to drive the new 500C Cabrio. Sorry, says Matthew Carter, it might be cute, but this should remain a bloke’s car

f you’re a man, the chances are you’ve taken a look at the Fiat 500 and instantly dismissed it as a ladies’ car. And for that selfsame reason you won’t even have glanced at the Cabrio version; more than 90 per cent of owners are female. Not that Fiat is worried about missing out on the male vote; far from it. In fact, the vast majority of Abarth 500 buyers are blokes. Fiat 500? Abarth 500? One and the same thing, surely? Well, yes and no. The Abarth version is the hot one, re-engineered with more power, bigger brakes, wider wheels and an aggressive body kit. But Fiat insists Abarth is a standalone brand and the Fiat badge appears nowhere on the car. The result is obvious: Fiats are for girls and Abarths are for boys. But that might change with the arrival of the Abarth 500C, a convertible version of the little street fighter. The car (and the company) is named in honour of Carlo Abarth who, in the 1950s and 1960s, took standard Fiat machines and turned them into record breakers and successful racers. And creating the Abarth 500C has been tackled in much the same way as the Austrian-born Abarth would have done it more than 60 years ago: Fiat has taken a standard 500C and replaced virtually everything mechanical. That means it has a punchy, turbocharged 1.4-litre engine developing 140bhp – or 5bhp more than the hardtop Abarth 500, the extra power designed to compensate for the extra weight of the fabric roof conversion. It has deep front spoilers, lower side skirts, an extended roof spoiler to take advantage of the extra power, and it has bigger ventilated disc brakes to slow it down more effectively. The suspension has been stiffened, while inside there are excellent sports seats, a thick-rimmed flat-bottomed steering wheel and a Sport/overboost button, which quickens throttle responses, weights up the electric power steering and sharpens handling. Among the standard gizmos are the Electronic Stability Programme (ESP), which starts braking individual wheels if control is threatened, and Torque Transfer Control (TTC), which acts like a limited slip differential to kill understeer under cornering, and so deliver more fun.

motoring

But there are a couple of girltailored gizmos. The suspension is slightly softer than the closed version and, for the time being at least, you can only get the Abarth 500C with an automated manual transmission – something that’s not even available on the hardtop as yet. Abarth calls it Competizione, which gives a clue as to its sporting pretensions. There’s no central gearshift, but a selector allowing the driver to choose forwards or reverse and manual or automatic modes. You can then either leave the five-speeder to change gear by itself ,or shift manually by flipping the paddles behind the steering wheel. In everyday use, you’ll choose to do the job manually. The paddles might be a touch small, but manual shifts allow you to exploit the rev-happy engine properly: left in ‘auto’, the ‘box’ sometimes changes gear at the most inappropriate moment. Gearbox and barely discernible

power hike aside, the Abarth 500C and 500 are mechanically identical. The big difference comes with the roof. Like the Fiat 500C, the electric fabric soft top is more a giant sunroof than a full convertible hood. To keep the car’s structural rigidity virtually untouched, the complete body sides of the car are left intact, with only the central section of the roof turned from metal to fabric. Yes, there’s the occasional shimmy from the structure over seriously rough going but, by and large, this is a convertible that’s as rigid as the donor hatchback. The roof slides back and forth via two tracks in what’s left of the roof and can be retracted on the move at speeds of up to 37mph. It can be stopped in any position so that the rear window can remain in place, or folded, pram-like, so it sits above the boot lid – where it obscures rearward vision totally. Never mind, that’s

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what the large door mirrors (and the standard rear parking sensors) are for. It’s probably the ideal compromise. You get wind in the motoring at the touch of a button, but without any of the problems of a traditional convertible, where the removal of the roof turns the car into a motorised jelly that wobbles round bends. Handling is nimble and performance peppy enough, given its comparatively modest power output. It also has a full complement of standard features including Xenon headlights, air conditioning, hands-free control of a mobile, plus voice activation for the sound system, which incorporates an auxin slot for an iPod. A neat extra is a fully portable satnav system that incorporates a full telemetry system, allowing keener drivers to download their lap times, gear shifts and so on, so they can analyse where to extract that extra tenth – vital on that rush-hour run between the City and Canary Wharf! Among the other extras, you can specify full leather trim (£800) or, for an extra hundred quid – £900 in all – leather, plus a two-tone paint job. Red brake callipers, meanwhile, are £150 extra. OK, so £17,500 before those extras isn’t cheap, but clearly there are many people prepared to spend that sort of cash on a chic, topless, performance car: just look at sales of the Mini Cooper S Convertible for proof. The Abarth 500C might be a little smaller than the Mini, but it’s arguably even more desirable, and will certainly be far rarer. I just hope it remains a bloke’s car – girls, stick to the Fiat, please. n

IN BRIEF CaR: Abarth 500C PRICE: £17,500 ENgINE: 1368cc turbocharged four-cylinder petrol PowER: 138 hp DRIvE: Front-wheel drive

TICKETS TO CHELSEA AUTO LEGENDS SUNDAY 5 SEPTEMBER The magic of the legendary Le Mans 24-Hours race is coming to London for the very first time to raise funds for the Chelsea Pensioners. This year’s inaugural Chelsea Auto Legends is celebrating the illustrious stars and great cars that have made the celebrated French day-night-day classic the world’s most famous and spectacular showdown for man and machine. For one day only, Sunday 5 September, the glorious grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea will be home to a spectacular collection of the finest Le Mans sports cars, many appearing in the capital for the first and only time. Founded by King Charles II in 1681, Royal Hospital Chelsea has been a retirement and nursing home for British soldiers for more than 300 years. Today, it is home to more than 300 Chelsea Pensioners who will benefit directly from funds raised by Chelsea Auto Legends. Adding to the excitement and drama, the event will celebrate the 40th anniversary of Porsche’s first win in the French race as well as the filming of the epic Le Mans movie, which starred cult hero Steve McQueen. Many of the drivers involved in the making of the movie will be present to share their memories. Those already confirmed include five-time winner Derek Bell MBE, Britain’s most successful Le Mans racer and Richard Attwood the man who actually won the 1970 race (not Steve McQueen as in the film!) to give Porsche its maiden victory. On top of the Le Mans 24-Hours centrepiece, there will also be a huge number of mouth-watering prestige, exotic and supercars from both road and track. Aston Martins, Bentleys, Bugattis, Ferraris, Jaguars, Maseratis, Porsches and many other stunning marques will be out in force adding to the ‘wow’ factor. Indeed, with helicopter and military displays, there will be something for all the family. What’s more owners of classic, performance and supercars can also be part of the show. Adult entrance tickets are priced at just £12 in advance and those aged 16 and under admitted free if accompanied by an adult and are available from www.ChelseaAutoLegends.com

Steve McQueen

THE PRIZE We have four pairs of tickets to give away. To be in with a chance of winning, email your name, address and telephone number to competitions@runwildgroup.co.uk with AUTOLEGENDS in the subject bar. The closing date for entries is Friday 3 September, 2010.

Steve McQueen 917

Terms & conditions: The first four correct entries drawn will win the prizes. The editor’s decision is final and no correspondence can be entered into.

m{zd{ 3 AT ROMFORD M{ZD{.

Proof that fun and ﬁnance can go together.

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The official fuel consumption figures in mpg (l/100km) for the Mazda3 range (excluding Mazda3 MPS): Urban 26.7 (10.6) – 48.7 (5.8), Extra Urban 48.7 (5.8) – 74.3 (3.8), Combined 37.2 (7.6) – 62.8 (4.5). C02 emissions (g/km) 175 – 119. Retail sales only. Subject to availability at participating dealers only on new vehicles registered between 1 July 2010 and 30 September 2010. ^0% finance available on Mazda Conditional Sale on all Mazda3 range models with minimum 50% deposit required. Finance subject to status. Terms and conditions apply. Applicants must be 18 or over. Guarantees/Indemnities may be required. Mazda Financial Services RH1 1SR. Model shown: Mazda3 2.0 5dr Sport. OTR price £15,030. Model shown features optional metallic paint (£410) and accessories available at additional cost. On the road price includes VAT, number plates, delivery, 12 months’ road fund licence, 1st registration fee, 3 year or 60,000 mile warranty and 3 years’ European Roadside Assistance. Details correct at time of going to print. Test drives subject to applicant status and availability.

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27/8/10 12:15:47

fast

Safety

Volvo is trying to replace a ‘safe’ image with new-found dynamism, as displayed in the new S60 saloon. But, asks Matthew Carter, why is Volvo so keen to dump its traditional strengths?

nocking over an innocent pedestrian is harder than it looks. With about 20 mph on the clock, an errant jaywalker suddenly hoves into view slap-bang in front of the car. Normally you or I would brake, sound the horn and expect him or her to jump out of the way. Not this time. My passenger told me not to do a thing and certainly not to touch the brakes. Just drive straight at the ‘target’ and see what happens. I did as I was told. It took all my willpower not to dab the brakes and just before the point of impact, I had to look away to avoid the pleading look of horror and shock on my victim’s face when he realised what was about to happen.

Stupid really. My victim was a static dummy, I was on a test track and the new Volvo S60 I was driving was equipped with Pedestrian Detection and Full Auto Brake. I knew no one was going to get hurt. Sure enough, once the car’s brain finally realised I wasn’t going to do anything about the impending accident, it jammed on the brakes and the car stopped about two inches short of breaking the dummy’s legs. I was, literally, no more than a passenger. The system uses radar and a digital camera mounted high in the windscreen, which determine what the pedestrian is up to. If it’s a moving target, for example, there’s a good chance the system will not operate at all, reckoning that if there’s not going to be an accident because the

pedestrian is jumping out of the way, there’s no point in jamming on the brakes and having the car behind slam into the boot of the Volvo. It’s exceedingly clever and exceedingly Volvo. All of which makes the company’s decision to promote the new S60 as ‘the most dynamic Volvo yet’ something of a puzzle. I mean, looking back at some of the less-thandynamic Volvos of the recent past, some might think that tag is damning the S60 with faint praise. As it turns out, it’s not a bad drive… just don’t go expecting BMW 3-Series levels of involvement. And neither is that damning the Volvo with faint praise. The point about the new S60 is that it’s good to drive without being overtly sporting. And as anyone

motoring

who has suffered a typically Germanic boneshaker ride will know, that’s a genuine blessing. Volvo, now under Chinese ownership, reckons the S60 is a fourdoor coupé, which might be stretching the point a little. The roofline does tumble away at the rear, but there’s still enough headroom in the back for most people: think of it as a saloon with some style, rather than a fauxcoupé, and you’d be nearer the truth. So, rather than calling it the most dynamic Volvo ever, they’d be better off saying it’s the most stylish Volvo ever. Swooping lines, a large grille and plenty of neat design touches give it more character than you might expect from a sensible Swede… though the clean, simple interior is pure Scandinavian. The wafer-thin centre console, for example, is clever and sophisticated at the same time. All in all, it’s a great combination. Volvo is claiming the S60’s dynamic prowess comes from “the sportiest suspension we have ever offered”. Possibly. But the really good news is that the chassis tuning was undertaken in the UK, where we are blessed with some of the worst B-roads in Europe. If the car can cope here, goes the theory, it can cope anywhere. The positive result is a car that handles well enough, but that rides exceptionally well. There’s a choice of two diesels and one turbo petrol just now, with other engines – including a frugal 1.6-litre petrol – due later. The 3.0-litre 304 hp petrol wasn’t available on the launch drive, but the two diesels were. Both are five cylinder units, with the 2.0-litre D3 delivering 163 hp and the 2.4-litre D5 producing 205 hp. While a 40 hp difference sounds a lot, performance-wise in everyday use, there’s precious little between the D3 and D5, though the smaller engine is much more economical. That’s the one I’d go for. I’d also plump for the SE Lux Premium grade, which has full leather, satnav, DAB radio and headlights that bend around corners, in addition to the expected equipment such as air conditioning, Bluetooth, alloys and cruise control. And you do get plenty of safety equipment as standard, including City Safety, which monitors the

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road ahead and if the driver fails to spot an obstacle – a line of stationary traffic for example – it will automatically take over braking duties to lessen the impact, if a collision is unavoidable. Sadly, the Pedestrian Avoidance system is an optional extra, so if you’re a jaywalker, don’t assume you’ll be safe walking out in front of every new S60… n

IN BRIEF CaR: Volvo S60 D3 SE Lux Premium PRICE: £28,345 ENgINE: 1985cc turbocharged fivecylinder petrol PowER: 163 hp DRIvE: Front-wheel drive

sport

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Whole In one

sports

news

rIse to the occasIon Montgomery Square in Canary Wharf doubled for an athletics field on 6 August when some of the most promising pole vaulters in the country put on a breathtaking display to promote Aviva’s London Grand Prix at Crystal Palace. A double-decker bus was parked next to the bar to give Wharfers an idea of the astonishing heights these athletes can vault. Great Britain international Max Eaves said, “We were in Trafalgar Square a couple of years ago jumping between two buses, but this is a much better location because there’s a bigger crowd. We’ve got the London doubledecker here and that’s only 4.60m high. All of us can jump over five metres, so we can smash that height”. The afternoon saw Eaves not only clear the height of the bus, but also set a new personal best of 5.47 metres. WWW.uka.org.uk

saIl aWay City Sailing 2010 by LynxSports will bring the speed and excitement of sail racing into the heart of London at The Royal Victoria Docks throughout September. Sail racing has been shown to be an exhilarating spectacle at events such as the iShares Cup, the BMW City Challenge and the King of the Docklands in Sydney. With the 2012 Olympic Games fast approaching, an entire fleet of Laser SB3 racing yachts will bring sailing back to the city. Be inspired by the commitment and skill of sailors, including British gold medallist Sarah Ayton in their quest for Gold in 2012. WWW.lynxsports.co.uk

Golfers travelling to European Airports are welcoming the arrival of Clubs to Hire, a new company offering the convenience of booking golf clubs online with instant pick-up at your airport of choice. Avoid the hefty carriage costs of lugging clubs on your flight with this quick and easy service available at the arrival hall of leading international airports. WWW.clubstohIre.com

say What?

Hopefully we can show the fans we are a good team. I’m desperate to make them happy in the future. I’m hurting as a player and I’m sure the rest of the lads are as well.

england captaIn, steven gerard on the neW squad’s future

How to:

perfect your golf sWIng 1. Choose the correct golf club Take a four-iron instead of a five-iron or a three-wood instead of a five-wood, and so on. Your shots will feel solid and ultimately yield better results. 2. It’s Not All About Your Arms Try to think of a back swing as turning your back to the target, as if winding up a spring, before releasing the club from behind you. 3. Coil Your Body Resistance is created between the turning of the upper body and shoulders, and decreased turning of the hips and lower body. Practice this movement for a more accurate direction on the golf ball. 4. Don’t be Hasty Any time a swing begins to break down, the first correction is usually to slow down your backswing and take your time. 5. Don’t grip too tight On a scale of one to ten, with ten being as tight as you can hold the club, try a grip pressure of about four.

AND THE WINNER IS…

The Challenger World London Triathlon 2010 took place on 8 August, with this year’s event being the biggest and best yet. We take a look at the winners and results from this great event

Now in its fourteenth year, the London Triathlon raises millions of pounds for charity each year. This year’s event took place under the watchful and excited eyes of a staggering 55,000 spectators, who lined the streets of London to be a part of the world’s most popular triathlon. The event is aimed at all levels of expertise, featuring a race for elite athletes, as well as several great corporate challenges. This year saw record breaking numbers of businesses from both Canary Wharf and the City take part in corporate challenges, with industries such as legal, insurance, finance and media playing a big part in this year’s event. Overall, around 13,000 athletes took part, including celebrity athletes such as Formula One World Champion Jenson Button and TV presenter Vernon Kay. This year was Button’s second successive year at the London Triathlon, finishing with a respectable time of 02:14:15. The elite race saw Australian Courtney Atkinson take the men’s gold with a time of 01:49:03, whilst British Olympian Helen Jenkins took gold for the second consecutive year with an impressive time of 02:01:01.

THE RESULTS: The eliTe Race Male

SWiM

BiKe

RUN

TOTal

Courtney Atkinson (AUS)

00:17:59

00:55:25

00:32:49

01:49:03

Tim Don (GB)

00:17:57

00:55:30

00:32:50

01:49:08

Jarrod Shoemaker (USA)

00:18:03

00:55:15

00:32:53

01:49:15

FeMale

SWiM

BiKe

RUN

TOTal

Helen Jenkins

00:18:52

01:01:05

00:37:03

02:01:01

Jodie Stimpson

00:19:28

0101:23

00:37:50

02:01:47

Liz Blatchford

00:19:05

01:01:40

00:38:39

02:02:39

Settling the old Canary Wharf v The City rivalry Pinsent Masons took the honours for the City in the Sprint Distance, with a time of 01:15:59, and Deloitte also did the City proud, winning the Olympic Distance Team Relay with a time of 02:16:44. We take a look at some of the other corporate race events, seeing how the times fare across different industries such as legal and finance, and speak to some of the members of the winning teams to see how they enjoyed the day.

TEam RELay and CUpS OlyMpic DiSTaNce iNSURaNce

OlyMpic DiSTaNce FiNaNce pOSiTiON

TeaM NaMe

TOTal TiMe

pOSiTiON

TeaM NaMe

TOTal TiMe

DTRB Manchester 2