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CONTENTS 14
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A Cut Above
How Does Your Garden Grow?
As the V&A prepares to open its Balenciaga retrospective, Scarlett Russell explores the stylish history of the fashion house
Ellen Millard unearths the green-fingered mavericks who sowed the seeds of the world’s botanical masterpieces
18 Chelsea Flower Show 2017 Sue Bradley rounds up the highlights to look forward to at the world-famous horticultural event this May
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72 Man of the Flower Instagram’s favourite gardener Charlie McCormick tells Lauren Stevens how he’s inspiring a new generation of horticulturalists
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Best of Baselworld
Superstitious Minds
Olivia Sharpe and Richard Brown round up the watch and jewellery highlights from this year’s Baselworld
Lanvin’s former creative director Alber Elbaz and perfumer Frédéric Malle discuss their new fragrance, Superstitious
This magazine is distributed throughout the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, including Chelsea, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Notting Hill and Holland Park, and parts of Belgravia, Fulham and Hyde Park
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On the Cover... On the cover of The Kensington & Chelsea Magazine, Olivia Palermo stars in Piaget’s new campaign, in which she sports the brand’s updated Possession collection. The 25-year-old jewellery line has been redesigned with new colours to reflect the style of today’s women. Discover the range on page 23. On the cover of The Notting Hill & Holland Park Magazine, we embrace spring style with Aquascutum’s S/S17 collection, which features lightweight versions of the label’s signature trench coats. Discover the range and our pick of this season’s collections on page 50. Cover image: Kensington & Chelsea Magazine: Olivia Palermo, Piaget brand ambassador, wears a selection of fine jewellery from the Piaget Possession collection, piaget.com Notting Hill & Holland Park Magazine: Aquascutum S/S17 campaign, photography: Ash Reynolds, aquascutum.com
80 Bobbi Brown
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M AY 2 0 1 7 s i s s u e 0 6 3 Editor Olivia Sharpe Contributing Editor Richard Brown Assistant Editor Ellen Millard Editorial Assistants Lauren Stevens Alicia Osborne-Crone Senior Designer Daniel Poole Brand Consistency Laddawan Juhong Production Hugo Wheatley Alice Ford Jamie Steele Executive Director Sophie Roberts General Manager Fiona Smith Managing Director Eren Ellwood
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From the EDITOR This spring, the Royal Borough plays host to two highly anticipated events. The first needs no introduction: the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, now in its 105th year, is the most famous horticultural event in the world. This year’s show has taken on a distinctly international feel, as Sue Bradley discovers, with gardens transporting visitors to Japan, Mexico, Canada and Bermuda, to name a few. Whether this is due to the EU referendum, as some journalists are suggesting, who’s to say? Brexit or no Brexit, nothing can put a dampener on this beautiful show or our spirits as we welcome it once again to Chelsea. See pages 18 to 20 for the full report. And for our guide to what’s happening on the streets surrounding the event, from the bars serving botanical-inspired cocktails to the shops displaying this season’s floral creations, visit pages 36 to 38. The second is the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion exhibition at the V&A. Marking the fashion house’s 100th anniversary and 80 years since the opening of its famed Paris salon, this display dedicated to its founder Cristóbal Balenciaga has certainly been a long time coming, being the first in the UK. From tunic to baby doll and shift dresses, the Spanish designer quite literally shaped the fashion industry. I therefore have no doubt that this retrospective, like Alexander McQueen’s two years ago, will be a sell-out. Scarlett Russell speaks to the curator, Cassie Davies-Strodder, about what visitors can expect at this year’s major fashion exhibition (p.14). While the fashion world can show due appreciation for its designers, it can also be a cruel-natured beast. This was something Alber Elbaz discovered, who left Lanvin after 14 years at the helm in 2015. Fortunately, he has moved on to greener pastures, having partnered this year with French perfumer Frédéric Malle on a luxury fragrance. I speak to the two men about how a lunch meeting sparked their evocative scent (p.76). Another event worthy of mention is Baselworld, which took place in March. Richard Brown and I bring you the highlights – from the trends to the mechanical masterpieces – of the renowned luxury watch and jewellery fair, which celebrated its centenary this year (p.26). Finally, for more on horticulture, head over to our lifestyle section, where Ellen Millard explores the world’s most exquisite gardens and the green-fingered mavericks behind them (p.66). And with that, we hopefully leave you full of the joys of spring.
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Olivia Sharpe Follow us on Twitter @KandCMagazine or email KCeditor@runwildgroup.co.uk with any comments
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BEST IN SHOW. 23 May - 27 May Try our quartet of floral desserts: Love, Eat, Sleep & Dream Flowers in celebration of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Perfect for sharing.
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Balenciaga’s Legacy This May, a major retrospective at the V&A shows how Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga became fashion’s leading man, writes Scarlett Russell
here are some who would call Cristóbal Balenciaga the most important couture designer of the 20th century. Christian Dior described him as “the master of us all” and Coco Chanel said he was “a couturier in the truest sense of the word… The others are simply fashion designers”. He personally mentored Hubert de Givenchy and Oscar de la Renta. Even today, 80 years after he opened his debut Parisian salon on 10 Avenue George V in Paris, his eponymous fashion house is worn by every style maven, from Kate Moss and Sienna Miller to Nicole Kidman and Lady Gaga. It’s no surprise, therefore, that a retrospective of Balenciaga’s work has been in the works at the V&A – which has previously presented major fashion exhibitions including Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. Thanks to Sir Cecil Beaton’s Fashion: An Anthology exhibition at the museum in 1972, the year Balenciaga died, the V&A houses the largest collection of the designer in the UK and this year marks not only the 80th anniversary of his first Paris store, but it’s also the centenary of the opening of Balenciaga’s first ever fashion house, in San Sebastián, Spain.
“The way he shaped fashion is iconic; it was Balenciaga who shaped the body rather than restricting it and moved away from this hourglass silhouette that was dominant with Dior, into a more avant-garde, modernist look,” explains Cassie Davies-Strodder, the curator of the upcoming retrospective, entitled Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. “We’ve been wanting to do this exhibition for so long,” she continues. “As well as the two anniversaries, the brand really feels like it’s having a moment. The name is back on everyone’s lips so it seems a good time to be looking back at where it all began.” The exhibition will run from 27 May 2017 until February 2018 and will focus on the latter part of Balenciaga’s 50-year career: the 1950s and 1960s. “This was the point where he really departed from other designers and distilled what his ideas were about the body, fashion and design,” says Davies-Strodder. “His early work is also fabulous, but our collection at the museum focused on that period anyway and, when we looked more closely at it, we could see that the kinds of shapes, materials and cutting he was using are what is so strongly seen in his legacy today.”
“It was Balenciaga who shaped the body rather than restricting it”
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Alberta Tiburzi in ‘envelope’ dress by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Harper’s Bazaar, June 1967, photography: ©Hiro 1967
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This page: Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn wearing a coat by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1950, photography: Irving Penn, courtesy of: ©Condé Nast and Irving Penn Foundation; Elise Daniels with street performers, suit by Balenciaga, Le Marais, Paris, 1948; Dovima with Sacha, cloche and suit by Balenciaga, Café des Deux Magots, Paris, 1955, both photography: Richard Avedon, image courtesy of: ©The Richard Avedon Foundation
Just some of the revolutionary shapes pioneered by Balenciaga include the tunic, the sack, the baby doll and the shift dress – all of which are still popular today. It seems fitting, therefore, that the second half of the exhibition features work from more than 30 designers of the past 50 years who either worked closely with and trained under Balenciaga, or cite him as a huge influence today. “Contemporary designers frequently ask to look in our archives for inspiration, and one of the most requested is Balenciaga,” says Davies-Strodder. “Clearly, he is still hugely relevant. I also think he’s a ‘designer’s designer’, like McQueen, who is revered by people in the industry because they see the integrity of his vision and how bold he was.” As such, you can expect to see pieces from André Courrèges, Emanuel Ungaro, J.W. Anderson, Phoebe Philo for Céline, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Erdem and Balenciaga’s own former and current creative directors, Nicolas Ghesquière and Demna Gvasalia, plus many more. “Balenciaga’s work was so true to modernity and femininity, innovative and inviting,” Simone Rocha tells me. “His work is always inspiring.” As well as a room dedicated to Balenciaga’s legacy, there are two main sections of the exhibition: ‘Front of House’ recreates the store, what it would have felt like to be a client and have fittings; meanwhile, ‘Workrooms’ focuses on the different elements of making the garments.
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everywhere,” says Davies-Strodder. “We were really keen to tap collections that hadn’t been seen before.” Several pieces belonging to actress Ava Gardner – who lived around the corner from the V&A in her later life and was a regular visitor of the Balenciaga store in Paris and at the house’s sister label, Eisa, in Spain – are on display. “She bought fairly austere Balenciaga pieces and added a touch of Hollywood glamour. We’ve got a lace coat which she added ostrich feathers to and a cape and
“She would ask for her wardrobe to be opened every morning to ‘let her babies breathe’.” “We’re keen to show the craftsmanship and skill of Balenciaga. One of the reasons he was so revered among his contemporaries is that he was known for being skilled at every stage of the making process. He could cut a pattern, assemble it and finish it,” explains the curator. “The dresses can actually be quite understated so to understand how exceptional they are, you need an explanation of how they’re made,” she continues. “We’ve got a film of a couture fitting where you can see the amount of work that goes into making something for a specific body. There are even X-rays of garments which show intrinsic elements that the naked eye cannot see.” During the 1950s and 1960s Balenciaga dressed the rich, famous and the fashion elite. Greta Garbo, Ava Gardner, Gloria Guinness and Countess von Bismarck (who famously bought 88 Balenciaga outfits in one sitting in 1963) were regular clients, and Davies-Strodder and her team painstakingly researched archives and collections around the world to put the exhibition together. “We sourced pieces from France, Spain, Switzerland,
dress to which she had added a floral trim. She looked at her couture clothes as her ‘babies’ and she would ask for her wardrobe to be opened every morning to ‘let her babies breathe’.” Another spectacular loan originates (of all places) from the Henry Ford Museum of automobiles in Detroit. Ford’s grandson’s mother-in-law was Elizabeth Parke Firestone, who adored haute couture – Dior and Balenciaga, in particular. Many of her clothes are displayed in the museum and seven pieces were lent to this exhibition. “Post-World War II Europe was broke and these American clients who were buying lots of clothes were keeping the couture industry afloat,” explains Davies-Strodder. Dior may have revolutionised the fashion sector, Chanel designed the most famous outfit in the world, and McQueen certainly broke boundaries, but, as this exhibition proves, it was Cristóbal Balenciaga who shaped the future of the industry. Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion is at the V&A from 27 May 2017 – 18 February 2018, vam.ac.uk/balenciaga
Top right: Model wearing Balenciaga orange coat as I. Magnin buyers inspect a dinner outfit in the background, Paris, France, 1954, photography: ©Mark Shaw, courtesy of: mptvimages.com
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Chelsea
FLOWER
SHOW 2017 Sue Bradley rounds up the highlights to look forward to at this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show, which will have an unmistakably international feel
Clockwise from top: The Morgan Stanley Garden, ©Chris Beardshaw; The IBTC Lowestoft, Broadland Boatbuilder’s Garden, ©Gary Breeze; Gosho No Niwa Garden, ©Ishihara Kazuyuki; Royal Bank of Canada Garden, ©Charlotte Harris
round-the-world trip within 11 acres of west London awaits visitors to this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Consciously or not, in the wake of the EU referendum, the grounds of the Royal Hospital will have a distinctly global feel between May 23 and 27, with Japan, Malta, Mexico and Canada among the countries inspiring some of the event’s 28 gardens.
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At the same time there will be plenty of reminders of the UK, with Yorkshire, Norfolk and Covent Garden all represented. And while even the world-famous RHS Chelsea Flower Show hasn’t escaped the financial fallout from Brexit, with just eight main avenue show gardens in 2017 compared with just over double that number last year, its organisers remain upbeat. “Like everyone, we weren’t immune to the impact of uncertain times last year and we think it was this uncertainty that may have impacted on sponsors’ decisions to be involved this year,” explains an RHS spokesman. “As with every RHS Chelsea Flower Show for more than a century, designers, nurserymen and leading lights are pulling out all the stops to make this the best gardening event in the world. At RHS Chelsea it will always be about quality and not quantity.” Malta is the inspiration for James Basson’s garden for M&G, which will be showing how the country has adapted to overcome environmental challenges, such as water limitations and sustainable waste disposal. France-based Basson, who won a gold medal for his Provence-inspired creation for L’Occitane last year, is basing his design on a quarry separated into a series of spaces. His garden will feature Maltese limestone, along with unique plants that he has had special permission to bring to the UK. “I want to capture the principles of ecological sustainability and the urgent need for action to preserve the fragile balance of our planet,” he explains. Meanwhile, Charlotte Harris explored the geographically vast and ecologically vital boreal forests and freshwater lakes of
Canada while preparing her design for the Royal Bank of Canada Garden, in what is the 150th anniversary of the confederation of that country. This will be Harris’ first project as a lead designer for the RHS Chelsea Flower show and she will head up an all-woman design team. “I spent time in northern Ontario exploring on foot and by canoe –navigating the waterways, pine forests, flora and granite of the Boreal,” she says. “This time was a special source of inspiration for the design.” Elsewhere, The Chengdu Silk Road Garden – the fourth collaboration at Chelsea between architect Laurie Chetwood and garden designer Patrick Collins – will highlight ancient trade routes between East and West and showcase plants found in the Sichuan province, one of the most florally rich and diverse regions of the world. Five hundred years of Covent Garden, from its origins as an orchard belonging to Westminster Abbey to its years as the home of the capital’s famous flower sellers, will be marked in a garden designed by Lee Bestall and supported by Capco, the site’s owner and steward, while Tracy Foster will be recreating a ruined abbey, as well as cliffs, a beach and reconstructed sea for Welcome to Yorkshire. Winner of 11 gold medals Chris Beardshaw is hoping to make it a perfect dozen with his design for The Morgan Stanley Garden, which will include a geometric performance pavilion in which members of the National Youth Orchestra will play a unique piece of music – and, unusually, the entire site will be viewable from three sides. The garden is due to be donated to the charity Groundwork to use in community schemes in east London after the show. “Music in essence runs a parallel course to the creation of the garden,” Beardshaw explains. “The plants that we’ve used are akin to the players in an orchestra and it’s about the choreography of those players and the orchestration...” Other show gardens include Breaking Ground, designed by Andrew Wilson and Gavin McWilliam, and sponsored by Darwin Property Investment Management Ltd, which will include a reference to the bleak heath landscape in Berkshire into which Wellington College was established in the 1850s, and The Linklater’s for Maggie’s Garden, designed by Darren Hawkes and inspired by the vision of the late Maggie Keswick Jencks, who understood the importance of cancer patients having spaces in which to relax. Elements of this tranquil garden will be taken to the new Maggie’s centre at St Bartholomew’s Hospital. While the number of show gardens may be down, there will be a record nine entries for the much-loved
“I want to capture the principles of ecological sustainability and the urgent need for action to preserve the fragile balance of our planet”
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From top: 500 Years of Covent Garden supported by Capco, ©Lee Bestall; Inland Homes: Beneath a Mexican Sky, ©Manoj Malde
Things will be heating up in the Fresh section, which aims to redefine the perception of the garden, with Inland Homes Plc’s Beneath a Mexican Sky. Designer Manoj Malde will be using colour-washed walls in clementine, coral and cappuccino, offset by concrete slabs floating across an aquamarine pool, as the backdrop for drought-tolerant plants that merge Mediterranean and country-cottage styles. Elsewhere, 23-year-old Jack Dunckley will be evoking The Bermuda Triangle, with a contemporary representation of an active volcanic landscape interwoven with tropical planting, using LED lights and plastic sheets. Other highlights of this section include Kate Gould’s ‘City Living’ garden, designed for an urban apartment block in which residents have no other access to outdoor spaces. Its message will chime with the innovative ‘Greening Grey Britain’ feature designed for the Royal Horticultural Society by Professor Nigel Dunnett, which will present a vision for the future that demonstrates the role of plants in creating healthier cities, with ideas for balconies, front and backyards. Meanwhile, the BBC Radio 2 Feel Good Gardens category will showcase five spaces designed to show the benefits of having a place to escape and indulge the senses. No visit to the RHS Chelsea Flower Show is complete without a wander around The Great Pavilion, a 12,000m² structure large enough to park at least 500 London buses. Talking points are bound to include a 4.3m high metallic spring, the centrepiece of ‘Hillier’s spring’ from the renowned Hillier’s nursery in Hampshire. If a trip to the grounds of the Royal Hospital isn’t an option this year, it’s still possible to enter into the spirit of the show by taking a tour of the Chelsea Fringe. Now in its sixth year, the alternative flowering festival, taking place between 20 May and 4 June, celebrates the spirit and creativity of the horticultural world with special gardening events, activities, installations and workshops.
need to know The RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2017, 23-27 May, Royal Hospital Chelsea, SW3. For more information visit: rhs.org.uk/Chelsea. Chelsea Fringe, 20 May – 4 June, for more information, visit: chelseafringe.com
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All imagery courtesy of: RHS
Artisan area, a section that often produces Chelsea’s most imaginative and inspiring designs while revitalising traditional crafts and materials. Among the most eagerly awaited gardens is Gosho No Niwa by Ishihara Kazuyuki, who’s Senri-Sentei Garage Garden with its classic Mini car won over crowds in 2016. This year, Kazuyuki is basing his design on the Kyoto residence of Japanese emperors and will be using trees such as acer and pine to evoke the atmosphere of his homeland and moss to represent the passage of time. The Japanese theme will be continued by Shuko Noda, whose Hagakure – Hidden Leaves garden is set to express the five senses and encourage visitors to be thankful for life’s opportunities. David Domoney will be joining in on the celebrations to mark the centenary of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission with a design that incorporates Portland stone steps leading to a raised platform, while the work of Antoni Gaudi and the modern arts movement in Barcelona will be represented in the Viking Cruises Garden of Inspiration from multiple time RHS gold medal winner Sarah Eberle. Gary Breeze will be bringing a replica of an 800-yearold oak boat to Chelsea for Broadland Boatbuilder’s Garden. The plight of abandoned and neglected animals will be highlighted in The World Horse Welfare Garden, with designers Adam Woolcott and Jonathan Smith recreating Clippy the pony’s journey from a dark, derelict stable to sunlit meadow in the west of England. And for the literaryminded, there’s The Poetry Lover’s Garden, designed by Fiona Cadwallader and based on Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s immortal words in This Lime-tree Bower my Prison.
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ASIAN ART
9 MAY 2017 FINE CHINESE CERAMICS AND WORKS OF ART London, King Street
12 MAY 2017 CHINESE CERAMICS, WORKS OF ART AND TEXTILES London, South Kensington
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Lot 290 AN APRICOT-GROUND FORMAL LADY’S COURT ROBE, JIFU mid-19th century Provenance: Property of a lady, acquired in Asia in the 1920s, and then by descent within the family. £10,000–15,000 London, South Kensington, 12 May 2017
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Flying Colours Aware that the 21st-century woman cannot be pinned down to a single definition, Piaget’s design team chose five colours to represent the multi-faceted lives of women today. The result is an updated version of its 25-year-old Possession line, comprising malachite, lapis lazuli, onyx, turquoise and carnelian stones. Piaget called on model and entrepreneur Olivia Palermo to star in the new campaign and film. “I think women in this day and age should be more supportive of each other than ever, and give each other a great platform and stability,” Palermo comments. “Within the film we show the different ways a woman can wear the Possession collection, and you can really see how it gives confidence to the wearer.” From £990 to £11,200, piaget.com
Olivia Palermo, Piaget brand ambassador, wears a selection of fine jewellery from the Piaget Possession collection, piaget.com
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JEWELLERY BY OLIVIA SHARPE
Wisteria necklace. I wanted to replicate how the plant grows and falls. My other favourite flowers are lily of the valley and dahlias. My mother-in-law’s Italian so when we visit Italy, we go and look at open-house gardens together. I think it’s such a lovely thing to see when you travel. I always go when I’m in Hong Kong, and in New York I visit the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. I‘m very influenced by my links to Asia and the Asian reverence towards jewellery. I love how Eastern decorative arts are so ornate, but I also love the Western simplicity towards decoration. I’ve often thought that if I had a garden, it would combine the Asian garden with something very English in terms of the flowers and plants.
with Ming Lampson Notting Hill-based jeweller Ming Lampson discusses her new Oriental Garden collection The nature of my jewellery is trying to create a family treasure. I often think of the Russian nobility and how they incorporated their heritage into their jewellery. I also love how an engagement ring is a symbol of two strangers becoming family.
My favourite piece is always the latest. I love the Wisteria necklace because there’s a lot of technical brilliance behind it in the way that it hangs on the body as if it were floating. I have a passion for lapis lazuli so the Lapis Pool ring is another favourite. It always makes me think of markets and tribal jewellery, but it’s also such an important stone in art.
It was a complicated route I took to falling in love with jewellery. For me, it’s like sculpture or art in miniature. It’s always so much about the person too, which I love. It’s that psychology within art that fascinates me. When you think of someone, you often think of their jewellery because it’s what they’re always wearing. It’s very symbolic.
I used to wear a lot of jewellery. Now I don’t day to day; I take it off because often what you’re wearing informs and influences the client. I want them to look into themselves about what they love; I don’t want them to be swayed by what I’m wearing.
I’m a bit of a frustrated gardener because I don’t have a garden as such, but I often imagine what I would grow if I had one. I used to walk past all the wisteria in Notting Hill on my way to work and that’s how I started Oriental Garden with the
Clockwise from top: Wisteria necklace; Palm Tree necklace; Lapis Pool ring; Flower Drop earrings; Violet ring; Beetle earrings; all POA, Ming Jewellery
Before Paddington I lived in Notting Hill. And before I opened my boutique on Talbot Road, I had a shop on All Saints Road. I always knew I wanted to do bespoke so I have never had a high-street shop. 108 Talbot Road, W11, mingjewellery.com
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Spring to Life The arrival of spring sees a new line of floral jewels unfurl from Van Cleef & Arpels. The jeweller has reworked its classic Frivole collection to include nine additional pieces, introducing new styles and variations of the original design. Stud earrings in yellow or white gold with diamonds make their debut in the collection, as does a chain bracelet adorned with a single floral motif, also available in yellow and white gold. For a full bouquet, there’s the three-dimensional eight-flower ring in yellow gold (evoking the style of the 1950s), featuring white diamonds in the centre of each petal. From £1,400 for the Frivole bracelet to £18,500 for the between-the-finger ring, vancleefarpels.com
Ivy League The true power of nature has been brought to life in Boucheron’s latest high jewellery collection. Lierre de Paris, translated as ‘Paris Ivy’, explores Frédéric Boucheron’s fascination with nature, which began in 1858 when he opened his first jewellery boutique in the arcades of the Palais-Royal, where wild ivy veiled the buildings. This plant motif has since been featured time and time again in Boucheron’s collections and comes to life in seven new creations that make up Lierre de Paris, including the Question Mark necklace with nine ivy leaves in white gold and diamonds, which twines round the neck. It has also been depicted in a double-finger ring. Paris Ivy, POA, boucheron.com
Pig in the Sky
Photography: Karen Collins
Tie the Knot We were taught as children that insolence isn’t tolerated by society, but as adults, French jeweller Chaumet invites us to embrace our mischievous side with its new high and fine jewellery collection. Drawing on the traditional bow jewels loved by Marie Antoinette and the jewelled garlands of the Belle Époque, each piece presents the feminine bow-knot on the verge of being undone: a diamond ribbon loosely intertwined with a delicate rose gold rope, symbolising a romantic union. The hedonistic and contemporary nature of the collection has been captured in the campaign shot by American photographer Karen Collins. POA, chaumet.com
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Even Tessa Packard will admit that she may have been in a slightly odd mood when designing her latest collection. And when one considers that new pieces include ceramic pigs suspended off earrings and swinging bats hand-carved in buffalo bone, you can well believe it. But as is always the case with the British jeweller, there was method in her madness. Packard was inspired by the Victorian curiosity cabinet, taxidermy and the work of artist Joseph Cornell to create her most eclectic range to date. “I really wanted to push the boat out and bring together materials and ideas that I’d collected over the past four years, but that had never quite made it into a collection,” she comments. By allowing her imagination to run wild, Tessa Packard has truly found her feet as a designer. From £325 to £14,000, tessapackard.com
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watch wish list An industry in consolidation mode is good news for punters, as watchmakers focus their attentions on their (slightly) more affordable collections, writes Richard brown
Tudor and Breitling become unlikely bedfellows It costs a watchmaker millions of pounds to launch a new movement. Hence why many of the brands that survived the quartz crisis of the 1970s grew reliant on calibres from third-party suppliers, most notably from Swatch Group-subsidiary ETA. When, in 2002, Swatch chief Nicolas Hayek Jr. announced plans to restrict the flow of movements to watch companies outside his own portfolio, brands
were forced to invest in becoming more self-reliant. Thus the sector’s prevailing obsession with the term ‘in-house’. Industry consensus is that it costs around £13.5 million to procure the industrial machinery needed to mill the requisite parts of a movement. At trade price, a watchmaker will need to shift a lot of units to make that money back. Given that a verticalised watch company will be capable of manufacturing more movements than it can possible use itself, one way of speeding up the ROI is to sell calibres to other brands. Perhaps this explains the initially eyebrow-raising partnership between Tudor and Breitling. Breitling has granted Tudor access to its B01 base calibre, into which Tudor has incorporated its own rotor and regulating system. The resulting movement, the MT5813, allows Tudor to update its Black Bay collection with a COSC-certified chronograph – at a fraction of the price it would have cost the brand to develop a similar watch by itself. Tudor, going the other way, has let Breitling use its three-hand MT5612 movement inside the second-generation Superocean Heritage – essentially an engine upgrade from the previously used ETA 2824. As with the first-edition Superocean Heritage, the second series is available in either 42mm or 46mm, both of which now include a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel. Given that for the past two years the watch industry has been shrinking, expect to see more mutually-beneficial, cost-saving partnerships between brands in the future.
Above: Black Bay Chrono, £3,430, Tudor Left: Superocean Héritage II Chronographe 46, £4,830, Breitling
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Sea-Dweller, £8,350, Rolex Until saturation diving was developed in the 1960s, the maximum depth to which a diver could descend was around 60 metres. Any deeper, and pressurised gas decompressed in the body could cause air bubbles to block blood vessels. Saturation diving mitigates the risk of a sudden build-up of gas within the body through acclimatisation. Divers live for up to 28 days in pressurised chambers, set to the same pressure as the depth to which they will be working, before they are transported underwater in closed ‘bells’ set at the same pressure. In 1966, divers from the Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises (COMEX), the NASA of underwater engineering, reached 160 metres. In 1992, a COMEX diver descended to 701 metres, a record that still stands today. It is considered the maximum depth to which a human body can descend before it implodes. The fact that Rolex’s new Sea-Dweller is waterproof to 1,220 metres, then, is a tad irrelevant. Here’s guessing you’re more likely to pair yours with a business suit than a wetsuit, anyway. To mark the iconic dive watch’s 50th birthday, Rolex has enlarged the Sea-Dweller to 43mm, equipped it with the latest-generation Calibre 3235 – accurate to −2/+2 seconds a day – and, for the very first time, fitted the timepiece with a Cyclops lens at three o’clock. Another design feature likely to excite Rolex devotees is the decision to inscribe the name Sea-Dweller in red, a direct reference to the watch’s 1967 forebear. Red writing on Rolex watches has become extremely valued among collectors. The ‘Double Red’ Sea-Dwellers produced between 1967 and 1977, which have two lines of red text on the dial, typically sell on the pre-owned market for far more than their white-text counterparts.
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Clockwise from top left: Sea-Dweller 904L steel; The Bathyscaphe Trieste, ©Thomas J. Abercrombie/National Geographic; Sea-Dweller 904L steel; James Cameron wearing a Sea-Dweller, ©Mark Thiessen/National Geographic; the original 1967 Sea-Dweller
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Classic Fusion Italia Independent collection, from £12,500, Hublot A tie-in between horologic exhibitionist Hublot, sartorial superpower Rubinacci and design prima donna Lapo Elkann, grandson of Gianni Agnelli, former Fiat chief and style deity of the 21st-century, was always likely yield something rather dapper. The result is six 45mm Classic Fusion chronographs – two in ceramic, two in titanium, two in gold – that feature dials and straps made from a selection of prints: houndstooth, squared weaves and Prince of Wales check. Handpicked from the 60,000 square metres of cloth that makes up Rubinacci’s archive, the selected fabrics date back to the seventies.
Aquanaut 5168G, £27,990, Patek Philippe At Baselworld 1997, Patek Philippe expanded its sports-watch offering by launching the Aquanaut. A commercially savvy way of providing access to Nautilus looks at lower-than-Nautilus prices, the Aquanaut quickly became one of Patek’s bestselling watches. To mark the watch’s 20th anniversary, the brand has launched the Ref. 5168G in 18-carat white gold – the first Aquanaut to be delivered in this precious metal. With a diameter of 42mm, it is the largest model in the Aquanaut family, paying tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size, a timepiece that continues to go by the nickname ‘Jumbo’ among collectors. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 120 metres, while a SuperLumiNova coating ensures that Arabic numerals are visible in the dark. Inside, the self-winding calibre 324 S C, visible through a sapphire-crystal case back, is just 3.3mm in height, making for a timepiece that is only 8.25mm thick.
Calibre 113, £4,780, Oris By the late 1970s, Oris had clocked up 279 in-house calibres and was one of Switzerland’s largest movement manufacturers, producing as many as 1.2 million watches and clocks a year. Following the quartz crisis, Oris became dependent on ebauches from third-party suppliers, until, in 2014, the watchmaker developed its first fully-fledged movement for almost 40 years. To mark the company’s 110th anniversary, the Calibre 110 boasted a then industry-beating 10-day power reserve. Three years later, Oris presents the Calibre 113, updated by way of a calendar that shows the day, date, week and month of the year. Again, the watch will run for 10 days before it requires winding (by hand).
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Vintage Appeal Faced with a turbulent economic climate, watchmakers are revisiting their back catalogues and reissuing rock-steady classics
Old School Chronographs Chronomaster Heritage 146, £5,500, Zenith Arriving just before Baselworld, Zenith’s Chronomaster Heritage 146 acted as a precursor to the raft of retro revivals we’d see at the world’s largest watch show. The big news here is that the modern Heritage 146 chronograph is now equipped with Zenith’s legendary El Primero movement – the world’s first (1969), and still the most accurate, series-produced automatic chronograph calibre.
Autavia, £3,900, TAG Heuer Last year, digitally savvy TAG Heuer devotees voted for their favourite
Retro Dive Watches Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, £10,310, Blancpain Arriving in 1953, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms beat both the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster to become the world’s first bona-fide, series-produced dive watch. In 1957, the Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC 1 incorporated a circular water-tightness indicator at six o’clock that would turn from white to red should water penetrate the case. In 2017, the indicator returns, along with a unidirectional rotating bezel covered in scratch-resistant sapphire.
Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s, €12,000, Grand Seiko While this watch’s hobnail dial, highlylegible contrasting bezel and circular hour marks may hark back to the golden
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Autavia model from 16 first generation pieces from the 1960s. The Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3, or ‘Rindt’, won out and, so, this year makes a comeback to TAG’s collection. Today’s Autavia has been modernised by way of a larger 42mm case (previously 39mm), SuperLumiNova-coated indexes and TAG’s latest self-winding movement.
Speedmaster Limited Edition, £5,360, Omega When the Speedmaster arrived in 1957, it was the first chronograph to feature a tachymeter scale on its bezel rather than printed on its dial. Sixty years later, one of Omega’s most recognisable models is reborn with the brand’s manual-wind 1861 movement, Super-LumiNovacoated indexes and a black ‘tropical’ dial. Only 3,557 pieces will be produced.
era of dive watch design, the Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s is actually the first professional diver’s watch from Grand Seiko. It is equipped with a hi-beat automatic calibre and a valve-free helium resistant system.
HyperChrome Captain Cook, £1,430, Rado Think Rado and most likely something sleek, slime-line and ceramic will pop into your head. Back in 1962, however, the Swiss watchmaker unveiled the Captain Cook, a neat 37mm diver’s watch with oversized indexes and chunky arrow-shaped hands. Playing tribute to that playful forebear, Rado has re-launched the model, choosing to stick with the original size.
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The Grand Phoenix ruby necklace, featuring 24 perfectly matched natural Burmese rubies totalling 59.83 carats, and 100.21 carats of diamonds, POA, Faidee
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olivia sharpe takes a tour of the jewellery stands at Baselworld 2017, discovering new trends and feats of craftsmanship
t is with some trepidation that I sit down to write the Baselworld round-up each year. The reason, quite honestly, is that I never quite know where to begin. Taking place over eight days, it is the longest-running event in the horology calendar and with more than 2,000 stands representing the gamut of luxury watches and jewellery, it all becomes a bit of a blur (not simply because of the copious amounts of champagne). This year marked the 100th anniversary of the fair. However, rather than celebrating in typically ostentatious style, there seemed to be a more subdued note in the air. With last year’s falling sales in the luxury sector and predictions of an economic downturn on the horizon, this had a knock-on effect at Basel, which saw exhibitors’ numbers reportedly drop by 13.3 per cent, from 1,500 to 1,300, according to Forbes. Following this, the organisers at Baselworld announced that it
would be reducing the number of days by two for the 2018 fair. Given such news, it is hard not to feel gloomy, but what was apparent at Basel is that brands are simply having to rethink their marketing strategies. Rather than using the event as the moment to showcase their most price record-breaking pieces, some exhibitors were emphasising affordability and wearability. The buzzword is millenials and by targeting them with attractive, entry-level collections, brands hope to weather the storm. The emphasis was very much on quality, not quantity. Of course, there were still plenty of showstopping pieces on display, including the astronomical $35 million ruby necklace by Faidee. Named The Grand Phoenix (pictured above), it stole the show in one fell swoop. With this and other dazzling pieces uplifting visitors’ spirits, there is no reason not to feel positive. Here’s to the next 100 years.
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Entry Point In a bid to entice millenials, several brands launched entrylevel collections. Case in point is luxury pearl jeweller Yoko London which, along with displaying its lavish one-of-a-kind pearl creations, added new pieces to its Pendulum and Novus collections. These have been designed to meet the needs of modern women, with prices starting from a modest £1,000. Fabergé showcased its accessible gemstone engagement ring collection, which launched at the end of last year. Clients can now enter into the world of this historic and opulent jewellery house for just £5,000. Elsewhere, Lebanese jeweller Yeprem argued that it’s never too early to get them hooked on diamonds with a collection aimed at girls starting at £1,700. Finally, Chopard gave its classic Happy Diamonds collection a fashionable refresh with pieces featuring the more affordable material malachite. yokolondon.com, yepremjewellery.com, faberge.com, chopard.com
Clockwise from left: Happy Diamonds bangle in 18-carat rose gold with malachite, £2,400, Happy Diamonds bangle in 18-carat rose gold with diamonds, £4,390, both Chopard; Novus South Sea pearl ring, £6,000, Yoko London; Ruby rose gold fluted ring, £8,455, Fabergé; Pendulum pearl earrings, £1,500, Yoko London; Gold bracelet with round and marquise-cut diamonds, £4,100, Yeprem
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L-R: Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Ruban, 36mm, £16,250 Dior; Mademoiselle Privé Décor Aubazine in 18-karat white gold with brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds on a black satin strap, POA, limited edition of five pieces, Chanel; Boy. Friend Tweed Beige Gold in 18-karat beige gold with 62 brilliantcut diamonds, POA, Chanel
In tough economic times, a brand will often stress its history and heritage as customers look to these qualities as sure signs of stability. This year, Chanel has commemorated its late founder, Coco Chanel, through its Mademoiselle Privé collection, which draws upon some of her favourite symbols. The Décor Aubazine timepiece is directly inspired by the windows of the orphanage in which she spent her childhood, glamorously depicted in 18-karat white gold and 552 brilliant-cut diamonds. The brand’s classic tweed has also been incorporated for the first time this year on the Boy. Friend watch’s strap, intricately woven from steel threads in either beige gold or black. Celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, Dior similarly pays tribute to its fashion heritage with its new Dior VIII Grand Bal watches. Launched in 2011, the collection honours its founder’s love of couture and lavish feasts, and has been updated this year to include the Grand Bal Plissé Ruban model, featuring a pleated design similar to that of a petticoat, interlaced with a silk ribbon. chanel.com, dior.com
Clockwise from left: 22.70-carat black opal necklace with white South Sea cultured pearls and diamonds, POA, Mikimoto; Serpenti watch with green leather strap, POA, Bulgari; Classic Butterfly emerald pendant, POA, Graff Diamonds; Mystery of Muzo cuffs, POA, Jacob & Co; Butterfly ring, POA, Sutra Jewels; Jade earrings, prices from £2,000, Marco Bicego
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Green Fingers The colour greenery is Pantone’s Colour of the Year and this was very much highlighted at Basel as jewellers gave their own fresh take on the trend. Emeralds were a common sight, but some jewellers chose to experiment with more unconventional green stones. For example, Italian jeweller Marco Bicego presented a pair of jade earrings, part of the Unico Lunaria collection, with visible imperfections and inclusions. Arguably, the most unusual version of the colour was shown at Jacob & Co, which presented an incredibly rare 40-carat Fancy Vivid green diamond ring. The jeweller also grabbed our attention with its Mystery of Muzo pair of cuffs, featuring a pear-cut 74.33-carat and 70.57-carat Colombian Muzo emeralds, both in the same vivid green shade. marcobicego.com, jacobandco.com
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Diamonds in the Rough Messika made quite a statement at this year’s Basel, having upgraded its stand to the central aisle of Hall 1, thereby repositioning itself next to the big players such as Hermès and Graff. In order to attract even more attention, the brand placed a bed of roses outside its booth (resulting in quite the Instagram frenzy) and inside, things looked even rosier. This year marks the 10th anniversary of Messika’s iconic Move collection and along with this, it launched its new high jewellery collection, Paris est une Fête. The collection pays tribute to its founder Valérie’s love of the French capital by looking back at its cultural heyday in the 1920s and the illustrious women of that era. This innovative and one-of-a-kind collection sees the designer play with different diamond cuts. The Swinging necklace includes 127 oval-cut diamonds and 2,407 brilliant-cut diamonds assembled using discreet knife-edge threads full of elasticity so the stones appear to float on the wearer. A central oval diamond rounds off this impressive feat of craftsmanship. Another diamond jeweller worthy of mention is Yeprem. The edgy Lebanese jeweller, loved by the likes of Rihanna and Madonna, made its debut into watches with the high jewellery timepiece collection, Y-Memento. messika.com, yepremjewellery.com
Lydia Courteille The intrepid French jeweller travelled to Tassili n’Ajjer and fell in love with the arid landscape and ancient culture of the Touareg people. Her new collection, Sahara, starring Australian boulder opals, rare haüynites and topazolites, hessonites and yellow sapphires, captures the desert’s vivid shades. POA, lydiacourteille.com
Clockwise from top: Swinging necklace; Swan asymmetric earrings, all POA, Messika; Y-Memento timepiece, POA, Yeprem Jewellery
High Jewellery Watches There was a time when watchmakers at Basel got away with smattering ladies’ watches with diamonds and gemstones, covering up the lack of any proper mechanism within as this would be reserved for the men’s offering. These times are fortunately behind us and brands across the board went for both style and substance when it came to its latest high jewellery timepieces. First up was Chanel, which celebrated the 30th anniversary of its original Première watch with the launch of the Première Camélia Skeleton for ladies. The skeletonised calibre is the brand’s second stab at an in-house moment and masterfully bridges the gap between design and function, as the skeletonised main plate and bridges have been carved into a camellia flower. The manual-winding mechanical movement comprises 107 components, has a power reserve of 48 hours and arrives in three versions. Harry Winston took us down memory lane with its Avenue collection, updating this classic range inspired by the jeweller’s store on New York’s Fifth Avenue. It now arrives in Dual Time: a second time zone function designed for globetrotting women, or with a moon phase complication, which is one of the smallest of its kind on the market. Graff, along with launching its Princess Butterfly Secret watches, also brought out its new Mastergraff Floral Tourbillon for ladies. chanel.com, harrywinston.com, graffdiamonds.com Clockwise from top left: Avenue C™ Mini Moon Phase in 18-karat rose gold with 53 brilliant-cut diamonds on alligator leather strap, POA, Harry Winston; Première Camélia Skeleton in 18-karat white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds on a black satin strap, numbered edition, POA, Chanel; Mastergraff Floral Tourbillon, POA, Graff Diamonds
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Dolce & Gabbana Along with exhibiting its new collection of men’s watches, Alta Orologeria, the fashion house also unveiled the Rose high jewellery watch. Reminiscent of the enchanted flower in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast, the petals are enamel, while the leaves and stem are adorned in emeralds and tsavorite garnets. The dial has been decorated with a pavé of diamonds. POA, dolcegabbana.com
Picchiotti The Italian jeweller celebrated its 50th anniversary by creating a special ring, debuted at Basel. The 8.05-carat ruby piece, named L’Anfiteatro, has been inspired by an amphitheatre and designed by founder, Giuseppe Picchiotti, who commented: “It is the perfect stone... a piece for the true connoisseur, an heirloom worthy of an exceptional collection.” POA, picchiotti.it
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In Focus Adding to its already rich photography collection, the V&A has acquired a vast series of snaps from The Royal Photographic Society. More than 270,000 photographs, 26,000 publications and 6,000 pieces of camera equipment have been transferred to the art and design institute from their former home at the National Science and Media Museum in Bradford, including portraits of Coco Chanel and HRH The Queen, and images by Tim Walker and Sir Cecil Beaton. The museum plans to open a new photography centre in 2018, and create a photography festival to mark the occasion. Watch this space. vam.ac.uk
Photography: Portrait of Gabrielle (‘Coco’) Chanel, 1937, Gelatin silver print, Horst P. Horst, ©The Horst Estate; Victoria and Albert Museum, London
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Illustration: Mai Osawa
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Bunch As London blossoms with the welcome return of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show in May, Alicia Osborne-Crone scouts out the shops, restaurants and bars championing all things floral this May
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Tom’s Kitchen Gracing your plate with beautiful British botanicals, Tom Aikens has designed an innovative range of floral dishes in honour of this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show. A starter of crab with basil mayonnaise, cucumber, nasturtium leaves and flowers begins the meal, with a choice of either cod garnished with apricot, rose and saffron or courgette and pistachio risotto with courgette flower as a main. Fragrantly concluding the meal is an elderflower and lavender panna cotta with poached cherries. 22-28 May, 27 Cale Street, SW3, tomskitchen.co.uk
Photography: David Griffen
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Goat When ordering a pizza, flowers are probably the last thing you’d pick as a topping – but Italian restaurant Goat is looking to break the mould. Its new Flower Power pizza combines goat’s cheese, mozzarella, courgette, rocket and pansies, resulting in a delicious treat for both the eyes and stomach. Wash it down with the vegan Violetta cocktail, a G’Vine gin, jasmine syrup, plum bitter and aquafaba concoction. 23-27 May, 333 Fulham Road, SW10, goatchelsea.com
Bluebird In collaboration with Maître Choux, Bluebird will be hosting a bespoke afternoon tea in its courtyard, which will be decked out with a floral display. Guests will be served a spread of delicious dishes, along with specially created Bluebird éclairs. In partnership with Jo Loves, bartenders will also be creating a bespoke cocktail menu inspired by Jo Malone’s favourite scents, served in a miniature watering can and garnished with edible flowers. 23-28 May, 350 King’s Road, SW3, bluebird-restaurant.co.uk
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Barts In celebration of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, London’s worst-kept secret, Barts, will be creating a deliciously unique cocktail. Befittingly named Not Just a Flower, this is far from your average drink. Comprising gin, rose water, fresh lemon juice, syrup and, unusually, wasabi, it’s not for the faint-hearted. 22-27 May, 87 Sloane Avenue, SW3, barts-london.com
Partridges To mark its 45th anniversary, Partridges is launching its first spirit. The Partridges Chelsea Flower Gin contains 19 botanicals, one of which is rose water – chosen to commemorate the historic association between flower nurseries and the King’s Road, where Partridges’ flagship store is located. Bottoms up! 2-5 The Duke of York Square, King’s Road, SW3, partridges.co.uk
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The Kensington The Kensington will be celebrating RHS’s horticultural show with an exclusive al-fresco Perrier Jouët champagne pop-up, surrounded by a floral installation courtesy of expert florist William Clarke. Hotel guests will be offered the chance to be among the first to sample a glass of the newly launched Blanc de Blancs champagne, which contains aromatic notes of lilac blossom, peach and grapefruit. 15-27 May, £10 per glass, £60 per bottle, 109-113 Queen’s Gate, SW7, doylecollection.com
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Chelsea In Bloom The prestigious floral art show Chelsea In Bloom returns for its 12th year – this time with a Floral Safari theme. Be sure to stop by the Tom Davies boutique, which will be creating a sunset savannah wall to mark the occasion. In keeping with the eyewear brand’s speciality, the display will be made from glasses and jungle flowers, which will be emerging from the inside of the store to frame the entrance with lush flora. 22-27 May, chelseainbloom.co.uk
Chelsea Fringe If your inner horticulturalist is feeling inspired, look to Chelsea Fringe, which celebrates all things green and to do with gardens – whether you are growing plants in allotments, flowers on roundabouts, turning foliage into art or cooking it into a delicious meal, Chelsea Fringe wants to know. Calling all green thumbs and non-gardeners, the festival provides an open opportunity for anyone to create imaginative and engaging outdoor projects. We dig it. 20 May – 4 June, chelseafringe.com
Natoora Fruit and vegetable specialist Natoora will be creating a floral installation reminiscent of English grasslands for Chelsea In Bloom, drawing inspiration from the environment in which asparagus grows. The display will feature asparagus spears, flowering asparagus and edible borage flowers in a climbing display of greenery. Natoora will also be welcoming visitors to test out their own gardening skills, inviting them to plant and take home their own Sicilian datterini tomato seedlings, which will be ready to harvest in the summer. 22-27 May, 245 Pavilion Road, SW1X, natoora.co.uk
W HERE TO SH Cosmetics à la Carte
Celebrating the pleasures of travelling in style, Cosmetics à la Carte will be transforming its bespoke Chelsea boutique into a luxurious safari tent, where creative blogger Alexia Booker will be installing beautiful floral decorations. Visitors will be invited to enjoy the vibrant, floral surroundings and discover a new limited-edition makeup palette containing savannah-inspired shades. Complimentary ‘safari beauty’ touch-ups will also be available on site, accompanied by a cocktail – what’s not to love? 22-27 May, £55 for the palette, 192 Pavilion Road, SW3, cosmeticsalacarte.com
Hugo Boss Alongside an exotic window display for Chelsea In Bloom, Hugo Boss will be presenting safari-inspired pieces from its Pre-Fall 2017 womenswear collection at its Sloane Square store. Bold zebra and leopard prints are to make an appearance, spliced with floral patterns in recognition of the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. With distinctive and contemporary designs, this clothing line ensures a confident, seasonal statement for the wearer. From £75 for the Pre-Fall 2017 collection, available unitl August, 35-38 Sloane Square, SW1W, hugoboss.com
Coast In an exclusive collaboration with the Royal Horticultural Society, Coast has designed a limitededition Flora collection, which celebrates the beauty of flowers. Comprising elegant floor-length gowns and modern co-ord sets with flared trousers and ruffle skirts, the collection features botanical prints from the Royal Horticultural Society, combining hand-painted techniques with photographic prints. From £79, available from May, coast-stores.com
Poetry Poetry’s floral display for Chelsea in Bloom, designed by the talented Rob Van Helden, is set to have a lion as a magnificent centrepiece. Constructed from flowers and printed fabrics, the lion will have a suitably exotic backdrop that incorporates palm and leaf prints taken from Poetry’s new clothing line. The collection is available to buy in-store, with a free scarf up for grabs with every purchase made throughout Chelsea in Bloom. 22-27 May, from £139, 10 Symons Street, SW3, poetryfashion.co.uk
From top: Perrier Jouët pop-up at The Kensington; Jo Loves cocktail at Bluebird; Cosmetics à la Carte, photography: Danny Bird; Flower Power pizza at Goat; Poetry S/S17 campaign
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Buck the Trend
Illustration: Mai Osawa
Jethro Buck specialises in Indian miniature painting, using traditional techniques and hand-ground pigments to explore nature and celebrate life. His artwork conveys a sense of magic; with vibrant golds and subtle glimpses of wildlife. This will be Jethro’s first solo exhibition at the Crane Kalman Gallery this May, where you will also be able to purchase his work. Jethro Buck – Axis Mundi, 2-27 May, Crane Kalman Gallery, 178 Brompton Road, SW3, cranekalman.com
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L-R: The Night Tree, 2016, gold leaf on indigo-dyed linen, 48 x46 inches; They call him the Flower maker, 2017, natural pigment and Sanganer paper, 33 x 18.4cm, Jethro Buck, all images courtesy of: Crane Kalman Gallery
Blooming Lovely
A Bug’s Life Aiming to inspire people with nature’s hard-working grassland creatures, Mission: Invertebrate is set to raise awareness of the role invertebrates play in our everyday lives. In the 5,000 acres of London’s eight Royal Parks, 4,100 species have been recorded so far – ranging from the creepiest of crawlies to colourful butterflies. This year, visitors will have the chance to participate in two citizen science projects: The Spiny Supper Survey, which focuses on the invertebrates that inhabit Regent’s Park and their influence on hedgehog activity, and the Ant-cient Grassland, which studies the ant hills and the yellow meadow ants found in Richmond Park. Find our more at royalparks.org.uk
Above: Fuchsia, Love in the Mist & Melon, May 2016; Below: Pat Albeck; both images courtesy of: Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler
Appropriately timed for this year’s Chelsea Flower Show, the new Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler Pimlico showroom will be hosting the latest exhibition by Pat Albeck, featuring 20 new paper flower collages, all of which focus on the shifting horticultural seasons. Pat, who has always loved and drawn flowers, works from life with a number of different techniques – cut paper being her favourite. The botanical works will be available to purchase during the exhibition. 22-27 May, 89–91 Pimlico Road, SW1, from £500 to £5,000, sibylcolefax.com
Photography: PA
spotlight on the royal borough of Kensington & Chelsea: news, events, reviews & local interest stories
Hit the Roof If an evening of live classical music and delicious food takes your fancy, head over to Kensington Roof Gardens. This year’s Proms on the Roof will feature performances by up-and-coming musicians from the Royal College of Music. The bar will be open all evening, offering a selection of food from freshly prepared risotto and gourmet burgers to fresh strawberries and cream. 31 May, tickets £29.50, Kensington Roof Gardens, virginlimitededition.com
Book WORM Our pick of the best gardening books for green-fingered enthusiasts
Photography: Kensington Roof Gardens
Herbarium Caz Hildebrand A modern reboot of a traditional herb anthology, Herbarium is a stylishly illustrated book of 100 essential herbs. From bergamot to wasabi, explore each herb’s fascinating history, properties and symbolism. £16.95, Thames & Hudson
outside the
b or oug h
Luciano Giubbilei: The Art of Making Gardens Luciano Giubbilei
Bringing it Holme
The Cactus House
A throwback to the days before Benedict Cumberbatch, the infamous Sherlock Jr. is set to be projected onto a big screen at St. John’s Church, Notting Hill. The classic silent-film comedy will be shown as part of a double bill with Laurel and Hardy’s Do Detective’s Think?, and accompanied by spectacular, reverberating music from the church’s newly restored organ. Friday 5 May, 8pm–9.30pm, Tickets £10, St John’s Notting Hill, Lansdowne Crescent, W11
The distinctive way light filters through the flesh of a cactus spiked the curiosity of heritage conserver and sculptor Ben Russell, who has created a quirky display of sculptures based on the desert flower. After Russell recently shifted his style towards contemporary sculpture, The Cactus House will be the first major showcase of his bespoke works. He applies traditional techniques to a range of materials; his main method is a process of sanding and polishing, which guarantees a unique, luminous sheen. 11 May – 7 June, Hignell Gallery, 12-14 Shepherd Street, W1J, hignellgallery.com
Image courtesy of: Tania Dolvers
From top: Sherlock Jr.; Sherlcock Jr. with book, courtesy of: Getty Images
Renowned for his award-winning gardens at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, Luciano Giubbilei is offering an insight into the inspiration and creative process behind his beautiful work. £45, merrellpublishers.com
Botanical Sketchbooks Helen and William Bynum Journey back to a time before extravagant paintings to the quiet and simple beauty of preparatory sketches, thoughts and discoveries. Botanical Sketchbooks brings enchanting personal records to light, with artists ranging from Leonardo Da Vinci to John James. £29.95, Thames & Hudson
covering kensington, chelsea, knightsbridge, holland park & notting hill
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ART ANTIQUES BY rebecca wallersteiner
Heart of Darkness
L-R: Arrangement No.2; Arrangement No.3, Rupert Shrive, images courtesy of: Serena Morton gallery
On 12 May, the Serena Morton gallery will unveil haunting new paintings by Rupert Shrive, inspired by the Polish-British writer Joseph Conrad. The gallery director Serena Morton comments: ”Shrive’s richly coloured still lives resemble Arcimboldo’s heads but are composed of contemporary flotsam – aluminium sheeting, electrical cables, outmoded mobile phones, polythene bags and binder twine, combined with torn fragments of paintings and drawing on paper, of western and African tribal art.” An alumnus of Central Saint Martins, the artist divides his time between the UK, France and Spain. His work is held in many international private collections and this is his fifth solo show with the gallery. 12 May – 23 June, Rupert Shrive: Mysterious Arrangement, 343 Ladbroke Grove, W10, serenamorton.com
California Dreamin’
Treasures of China Following on from Christie’s Asian Art Week in New York, on 12 May, Christie’s South Kensington will be offering treasures from prestigious Chinese collections, including a pair of rare famille-rose porcelain ‘landscape’ seals (pictured). “It’s very unusual to find exquisitely painted porcelain seals in the Republic Period, signed by a master ceramic artist of the day,” explains Kate Hunt, head of sales for Chinese Works of Art at Christie’s South Kensington. “He Xuren, one of the so-called ‘Eight Friends of Zhushan’, was famed for his snowscapes and commissioned by Zhu Peide (1887-1939), a high-ranking general in the Kuomintang army, and bore his personal seal mark.” 12 May, Chinese Ceramics, Works of Art and Textiles Sale, Christie’s South Kensington, christies.com
A pair of very rare Republic Period famille rose porcelain landscape seals signed He Xuren (1882-1940) and dated to the Ding Mao year corresponding to 1927, estimate: £30,000-£50,000; image courtesy of: Christie’s Images Ltd.
From surfers and dreamers to Silicon Valley, California has become the epicentre for selfexpression, revolutionary design and experimentation. A new exhibition at the Design Museum celebrates the independent spirit and creativity of the Golden State, and examines the link between innovative design and free-thinking. The 200 objects on display will include Black Panther posters, an original Apple I computer, artwork for Blade Runner, Waymo’s selfdriving car and LSD blotting paper. Drop in and hang out. 14 May – 15 October, California at the Design Museum, 224-238 Kensington High Street, W8, designmuseum.org Power Up, Corita Kent, image courtesy of: Design Museum, Kensington
Off the Wall
Artist of the
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Carey Mortimer
Inspired by ancient Italian frescoes, Sardiniabased artist Carey Mortimer’s new paintings (ranging in price from £1,000 to £15,000) will be unveiled at the Thackeray Gallery from 9 May. “Using techniques developed by Renaissance masters – egg tempera, fresco, gesso, gold leaf – Mortimer’s work is intrinsically linked to the very materials she works with,” comments Sarah MacDonald-Brown, the gallery’s director. “By finding and reclaiming often rejected everyday objects, such as a crate, a panel from an ancient wooden door, or a piece of cloth, she breathes new life into them.” The results are ethereal, contemporary and elegant works of art that embody a spiritual and timeless quality. Mortimer’s successes include prestigious commissions for English Heritage and the J Sainsbury plc Commission. 9-26 May, Fallen Angels, Empty Thrones, at Thackeray Gallery, 18 Thackeray Street, Kensington Square, W8, 020 7937 5883, thackeraygallery.com
Fallen Angel, Carey Mortimer, image courtesy of: Thackeray Gallery
From top: Hands Over Eyes, ©Pink Floyd Music Ltd., photography: Storm Thorgerson, Aubrey ‘Po’ Powell, 1971, Belsize Park; Light Projector original Rank Aldis Tutor projector, Rupert Truman, ©Pink Floyd Music Ltd; images courtesy of: Victoria and Albert Museum
Following on from the hugely successful David Bowie exhibition, this year sees the V&A pay tribute to legendary rock band Pink Floyd – which celebrates its 50th anniversary on the music scene this year – with a dedicated exhibition. Visitors will enter this immersive and multi-sensory exhibit by climbing through a replica of the battered van used by the band to travel to gigs in the early days. Three hundred pieces of memorabilia on display – highlights of which include a psychedelic light show, guitars, costumes and iconic album covers – tell the story of Pink Floyd’s meteoric career and the band’s groundbreaking use of special effects and sound. One of the most noteworthy artefacts on display is a letter from the helicopter pilot hired to retrieve the giant inflatable pig suspended above Battersea Power Station for the album cover of Animals (1977), after it broke free and floated away across London. Whoever said pigs couldn’t fly? 13 May – 1 October, The Pink Floyd Exhibition: Their Mortal Remains, Victoria and Albert Museum, vam.ac.uk
Ruth Borchard Prize Now in its fourth year, the Ruth Borchard Prize (£10,000) is supported by the familyrun Piano Nobile gallery. “A Jewish émigrée from Germany, Ruth Borchard (19102000) was a passionate patron of the arts and a tenacious collector,” comments the gallery’s director, Matthew Travers. On 17 May, the prize will be awarded to a winner by a prestigious panel of judges, including director of the Wallace Collection Dr Xavier Bray, art critic Charlotte Mullins and broadcaster Alastair Sooke. Artwork from the winners will be exhibited from 17 May at Piano Nobile’s galleries in King’s Cross and Holland Park. Previous winners include Lucian Freud’s muse Celia Paul. Last year’s entries included artwork from students at Holland Park School and Piano Nobile philanthropically acquired 22 pieces for the gallery’s collection. 129 Portland Road, W11, piano-nobile.com
Jiro Osuga, image courtesy of: Piano Nobile
Sweet Bird of Youth Until 20 May, the Michael Hoppen Gallery will show two photographic series by Joseph Szabo and Siân Davey, made nearly 50 years apart, which explore the vulnerability, beauty and ambivalence of adolescence. Szabo, an art teacher, photographed his students in the early 1970s as a way of engaging with them and the results are revealing, tender and raucous. In contrast, Davey’s quieter portraits explore her evolving relationship with her teenage step-daughter, Martha, and her friends in rural Devon. Her pictures have an intimacy and honesty that you rarely find in today’s social media-obsessed world. Until 20 May, Untethered: Joseph Szabo & Sian Davey, Michael Hoppen Gallery, 3 Jubilee Place, SW3, 020 7352 3649, michaelhoppengallery.com
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L-R: Gathered by the River Last Light 7pm, ©Siân Davey; Anthony & Terry, 1977, ©Joseph Szabo; images courtesy of: Michael Hoppen Gallery
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fashion
Feather report Get your dancing shoes on with Sophia Webster’s vibrant S/S17 collection, inspired by 1960s divas Diana Ross and Martha Reeves. Following a birds-of-paradise theme, the colourful range is a tropical mix of textures, hues and styles that include metallic sandals and the designer’s signature butterfly Chiara heels in a rainbow design. Our pick is the new Effie platform, which features a flashy peacock and jungle print in orange, green and purple shades. The Supremes would be proud. From £395, sophiawebster.com
Image courtesy of: Sophia Webster
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Heart
Craft As Mulberry prepares to host a series of pop-up events for London Craft Week, the brand’s creative director, Johnny Coca, tells Ellen Millard about updating a British classic, creating the perfect It bag and swapping architectural sketches for satchels
FASHION
hile Kent has been famously dubbed the Garden of England and Yorkshire revered for being God’s Own Country, it would appear that Somerset has been left by the wayside when it comes to metaphorical monikers. But should one wish to gift the English county with a doting signature, the land of cider, cheddar cheese and handbags would surely be a fitting accolade. It may not have quite the same ring to it as its counterparts, but it does pay tribute to the trio of wares for which Somerset is best known: apples crushed into fruity tipples, hefty wheels of mature cheese and buttery leather handbags that last a lifetime. The latter is the achievement of Roger Saul, founder of British powerhouse Mulberry, which still produces 50 per cent of its leather accessories in its two Shepton Mallet-based factories. Founded in 1971, the label has transcended Saul’s original dream of being a leather belt specialist to become a global fashion institute with an expertise in handbags, seen swinging from the arms of everyone from HRH The Duchess of Cambridge to
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the average commuter on the tube. Its signature logo is synonymous with British heritage and its totes surpass It bag status – the Bayswater, the Alexa and the Daria need no introduction. So it was no doubt with some trepidation that Johnny Coca took up the mantle as Mulberry’s creative director in 2015, charged not just with running the fashion house, but with the difficult task of contemporising a brand famed for its British heritage and time-honoured traditions. Fortunately, Coca is well versed in crafting chic accessories, having cut his fashionable teeth at Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors and Céline, where he was head accessories designer and produced some of the brand’s most recognisable totes and footwear. The Trapeze bag? That was Coca. The Trio clutch and Skate slip-on shoes? Coca, and Coca again. Never one to shy away from a challenge (he got his first job at Louis Vuitton by ringing the CEO), the designer made his first mission at the helm of Mulberry a controversial one: redesigning the much-loved Bayswater. Blink and you’d miss the changes made, but compare the Bayswater 2.0 with its predecessor and you’d notice the subtle differences, from the structured straps to the configuration of the inside pockets. Coca’s self-proclaimed “love of form” is intrinsic to his design modus operandi, and comes from a childhood obsession with structure and shape and a subsequent education in architecture. “I’ve always been interested in construction and design; my dream job when I was younger was to design planes and cars,” he explains. “But I’ve always had a parallel interest in fashion, from reading my mother’s fashion magazines to knitting clothes for my sister’s Barbie dolls when I was young.
This page, clockwise from bottom left: Zipped Bayswater bag in Dune and Oak; Pembroke bag in navy and cream; Selwood bag in silver; Mulberry’s S/S17 show; all images courtesy of: Mulberry Opposite page, clockwise from bottom left: Johnny Coca; Behind the scenes at the Mulberry factory
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with the Cherwell, a vintage lunch box-inspired clutch and the Pembroke, a shoulder bag jazzed up with chains and a chunky lock. While Coca tells me that the team is already well underway with its 2018 collections – and, rather scarily, thinking about Christmas – there is another event that requires his attention at the moment. London Craft Week returns 6-10 May for another week of demonstrations, talks and exhibitions surrounding the world’s most skilled artisans – and, as a sponsor, Mulberry is heavily involved. At the Kensington showroom, Coca will host a one-off breakfast, where he will be introducing guests to the craftsmen behind the two Somerset factories. In Mayfair, the Bond Street store will be hosting a week-long display by a team of artisans, who will be demonstrating how the Bayswater bag is made. For Coca, it is paramount that Mulberry continues to champion British craftsmanship.
“My training as an architect is what gave me a love of form. I like to look not just at how something can be beautiful, but how it works, how its shape affects its balance, its use,” he continues. “For me, the true validity of a product comes from its functionality. Really, both disciplines are about combining function and form, beauty and structure.” I imagine it’s this eye for detail that has made Coca and Mulberry such a good match. The three collections that he’s shown so far for Mulberry at London Fashion Week have been extremely well received, striking the right balance between contemporary design and the label’s heritage. Case in point: the S/S17 collection, for which Coca looked to “traditional British schools and colleges”, creating his take on uniforms “but without uniformity”. The result is pinstriped suits in red and navy shades, oxblood jumpsuits and cream PVC jackets. In the bag department, strong shapes have been softened with playful detailing – for example
Clockwise from top left: Behind the scenes at the Mulberry factory; S/S17 show; Behind the scenes at the Mulberry factory; S/S17 show; Zipped Bayswater bag in oxblood and black; S/S17 show; all images courtesy of: Mulberry
FASHION
Clockwise from left: Pembroke bag in black and white; Cherwell bag in oxblood; Pembroke bag in oxblood; Johnny Coca backstage at Mulberry’s S/S17 show; all images courtesy of: Mulberry
“The support of British manufacturing is key to Mulberry. London Craft Week celebrates homegrown talent and quality, and shows the work brands like Mulberry are doing to build a legacy, train a new generation and invest in the future,” he says. “As a company, we are the largest manufacturer of luxury leather goods in the UK and we have a commitment to support the industry.” Alongside the Mulberry demonstrations, London Craft Week will be hosting events by the likes of Gunnel Sahlin Glassworks at Notting Hill’s Vessel Gallery, Bespoke Walls in Holland Park and exhibitions at the Science Museum and the Design Museum. Coca’s picks take him back to his Spanish roots: “Hotel Café Royal’s pastry chef is hosting a pastry-making class which I would love to go to with my mother and sister; I have many memories of watching my mother cook in our kitchen in Seville – eating together was a huge part of our family life,” he recalls fondly.
“There is a true connection between fashion and art – plus, Grayson Perry is one of my favourite British artists” “Grayson Perry and the head of the London College of Fashion, Professor Frances Corner, discussing workmanship is also something not to be missed,” he continues. “There is a true connection between fashion and art – plus, Grayson Perry is one of my favourite British artists. He always has brilliant insight into modern culture.” This British attitude to design has long been an inspiration for Coca and he cites Dame Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen as his favourite designers. “I found them inspiring from a young age; how they pushed the boundaries of the industry and how fashion was portrayed,” he tells me. “Westwood for her rebellion
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and play on proportions and similarly with McQueen: the pieces are always strong and make a statement." When it comes to the fashion landscape, Coca is optimistic about the changes happening around him, from the 'see now, buy now' trend that's taking hold to the influence of social media. “[The fashion industry] has become more inclusive and democratic, which is only a good thing,” he says, positively. “Now, thanks to social media and online shopping, we can bring fashion closer to those who want to be a part of it – anyone can watch our shows, see products up close, engage with us, and share what they like and what they don't.” His plans for Mulberry are simple: to continue championing British manufacturing and making “products that people fall in love with and want to use every day, but are also fun and unexpected”. He bats off my question about the secret to creating a cult tote, but in doing so unwittingly reveals his methods and the key to his success, too: by simply avoiding making anything ‘cult’ in the first place. “When designing the accessories collection, I don't consider making an It bag. I want to create products that give ‘that feeling’ when you look at it or pick it up – that it's the bag for you,” he says. “As long as it’s your It bag, then that’s all that matters to me.” Mulberry: The Passion of Making runs from 3-7 May, 50 New Bond Street, W1S, londoncraftweek.com
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Photography: Ash Reynolds
Petal Pushers This season, Acquascutum has created the perfect collection to take us from April showers to May flowers. The new range’s floral motifs and birds of paradise prints take their cue from the work of lauded Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki. Feminine and lightweight pieces, including the Reema blouse and Genevieve silk dress – both of which champion the floral trend in a contemporary, monochrome colour palette – are perfect additions to your summer wardrobe, while updated versions of the British brand’s classic showerproof trench coats are just the ticket in tackling our unpredictable weather. From £110, aquascutum.com
Her STYLE BY lauren stevens
Take the Heat Brighten up your summer wardrobe with the vibrant new collection by Bally – one of the most colourful we’ve seen so far for S/S17. It was Cuba and last summer’s Rio Olympics which largely informed creative director Pablo Coppola’s sun-drenched and pastel shades, and burnished metallics. Layer a red mesh top over a leather guayabera-style shirt for a sophisticated tropical twist, or pair a satin blouse with flared trousers if you’re going for a vintage feel. From £395, bally.co.uk
Flower Power To celebrate the recent opening of its Regent Street store, Tory Burch has released an exclusive new bag. The Jacqueline is inspired by the women who were at the centre of New York’s social scene in the 1960s – whom novelist Truman Capote fondly referred to as his “swans” – and is a recreation of the classic purse that was often seen swinging gracefully from their arms. The structured tote is exclusive to the new store and is available in three distinct styles – including a wonderfully floral print perfect for spring. Jacqueline in floral print, £560, 223 Regent Street, W1B, toryburch.co.uk
Bride and Prejudice These shoes were made for walking – down the aisle, that is. Those getting ready to tie the knot should look to Charlotte Olympia for footwear fit for a bride. The designer’s S/S17 bridal collection offers a range of styles from which to choose, including elegant sandals (both heeled and flat) that feature kitsch starfish straps and rainbow tassels – designed to stand out just as much as the dress. For something a little more uderstated, opt for the Wallace (pictured), an ivory satin shoe featuring a simple pleat detail and a heart-shaped platform. Wallace, £640, 114 Draycott Avenue, SW3, uk.charlotteolympia.com
The Perfect Fit
Photography: Billal Taright
This May, new prints and styles will be added to Prada’s Made to Order Décolleté collection, the fashion house’s bespoke service that allows customers to take the design wheel and create their very own pair of shoes. The diverse range includes 18 different styles of pumps and sandals and a choice of eight heel heights. Pumps are available in six shades with a new bejewelled buckle, and arrive in satin, suede, velvet or patent leather, along with more playful floral and lip prints. Finally, customers can choose from three sole colours and add charms, their initials or date of birth. From £510, available at Harrods
A Passage to India Embrace the bohemian trend this season with Needle & Thread’s first Resort collection. Designed in England but handmade in India, the range comprises tops and dresses ideal for balmy summer nights. The label’s signature embroidered detailing is present on peasant tops and pastel-coloured dresses, while an off-the-shoulder broderie anglaise top is crying out for warmer weather. Summer can’t come soon enough. From £70, needleandthread.com
Mother of Pearl A black biker jacket will always be en vogue, but why not go a little off-piste this season and invest in an off-white version of the wardrobe staple, courtesy of Coach and Rodarte? For the brands’ first collaborative collection, Rodarte’s signature floral prints have been reimagined on Coach’s chunky leather bikers, embellished accessories and dresses. Our top pick is the Moto jacket (pictured), which has been decorated with pearls and carefully hand-punched holes to create striking floral motifs. £2,300 for the jacket, uk.coach.com Photography: Ciaran Spencer
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Dress, £1,160, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, available at Harvey Nichols; Harness, £495, Agent Provocateur, 16 Pont Street, SW1X, agentprovocateur.com; Lacy Shoes, £525, Sophia Webster, sophiawebster.com; Ring, £3,650, Stephen Webster, stephenwebster.com
Flower
Rangers “Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.” The sarcastic words of Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada haven’t deterred the fashion pack this season, as flower motifs and ditsy prints are aplenty. Get the look from Dior, Valentino and Roksanda
Photographer: Phillip Waterman
Stylists: Caroline Sciamma & Angela Radcliffe
Above / Dress, £2,900, Dolce & Gabbana, 174 Sloane Street, SW1X, dolcegabbana.com; Heroine Bag, £1,195, Alexander McQueen, available at Harvey Nichols; Ring, £3,650, Stephen Webster, as before Left / Blouse, £195, Donna Ida, donnaida.com; Skirt, £2,435, Valentino, available at Harrods; Belt, from a selection, Miu Miu, 185 Sloane Street, SW1X, miumiu.com; Montana Shoes, £505, Malone Souliers, malonesouliers.com; Ring, £21,000, Necklace, £29,000, both Cartier, 143-144 Sloane Street, SW1X, cartier.co.uk
Above / Dress, £1,595, Roksanda, available at Selfridges; Montana Shoes, £505, Malone Souliers, as before; Ring, £3,450, Earrings, £22,900, both Stephen Webster, as before Right / Top, £4,100, Shorts, £580, Skirt, £8,000, all Dior, dior.com; Shoes, £695, Jimmy Choo, 32 Sloane Street, SW1X, jimmychoo.com; Earrings, £7,300, Ring, £3,650, Bracelet, £6,950, Stephen Webster, as before
Model: Alice Rausch @ Premier Model Management Make-up: Julie Cooper @ Terri Manduca Hair: Simon Maynard @ Terri Manduca PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: Kai Gurung sTYLISTS’ aSSISTANT: Chloe Taltas Shot on location at Studio House, Unit 6B, Stamford Works, 3 Gillett Street, N16
Urban Jurgensen Advert - RWMG 333x235mm.indd 2
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Image courtesy of: Dunhill
Blazers of Glory From horses to headlights – Alfred Dunhill’s decision to transform his family’s harness manufacturing business into a motor accessories brand has certainly proved a good one. Now a fashion house for the discerning gentleman, Dunhill presents a relaxed collection for S/S17. For summer dressing, opt for one of the label’s new blazers, which have been updated for the new season with a less formal silhouette. Our pick is the navy merino wool double-breasted jacket, which is lightweight and crease-resistant. Team with a shirt for the office and a T-shirt when the weekend arrives. £990 for the navy merino wool double-breasted jacket, dunhill.com
Face Time Illustrator John Booth’s surrealist portraits are brought to life this season on leather satchels, backpacks and coin purses in a collaborative project with Fendi. To celebrate the launch of the label’s extended menswear space at Harrods, Booth has decorated a limited-edition line of leather accessories with his signature rainbow faces. A selection of T-shirts is also available, created in the Harrods signature green shade to mark the occasion. From £150, available at Harrods
HIS STYLE By Ellen Millard
Back to the Future No suit is complete without a tie or pocket square from Drakes, which has been accessorising dapper gents for four decades. To mark its milestone anniversary, the brand has created a heritage collection, offering a line of ties, scarves and pocket squares with designs inspired by those found in its archive. And that’s not all: for the first time, Drakes has produced a collection of suits that strike the balance between smart and casual attire. Accessorise with one of the label’s new woollen or silk ties, available in a mix of styles, from block colours to geometric prints. From £60 for a pocket square, drakes.com
Dukes of Hazzard Armed with just £5,000 and a passion for stylish footwear, Archie Hewlett’s business plan was the stuff of Dragons’ Den nightmares. Fortunately, the founder of footwear label Duke & Dexter appealed to an audience that was a little easier to please than the steely Peter Jones et al crowd, instead making strides on the prestigious red carpets of Hollywood, where the likes of Eddie Redmayne OBE and Ryan Reynolds have been spotted sporting his classic loafers. The latest addition to the collection is Stealth Camo (pictured), a classic slip-on updated with a subtle black and grey camouflage print. £185, dukeanddexter.com
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1817-2017. 200 YEARS DURAVIT. RE YOUR FUTUR BATHROOM.
Luv. Nordic elegance. The design of Cecilie Manz‘ bathroom series Luv combines Nordic purism and timeless, emotional elegance. Soft shapes follow a stringent geometry. The result is a new unique design language with precise, clear and ďŹ ne edges. For more information please visit www.duravit.co.uk or contact info@uk.duravit.com
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interiors bright spot There are few things that brighten up a room like a good feature wall, and one of our favourite wallpaper prints this season comes courtesy of lifestyle brand Silken Favours. Its latest design is inspired by the natural world and has been created using traditional pen and ink techniques. The exotic motif is bursting with plants, leopards and snakes, and is available in cream, navy and black. However, if you’re truly looking to capture the ‘jungalow’ trend (a hybrid of jungle and bungalow) the emerald green style (pictured) – exhibited for the first time at this year’s London Design Week at Chelsea Harbour – is the perfect choice. From £125 for 52cm x 51.71cm, silkenfavours.com
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& GARDEN
HOME
BY lauren stevens
Feeling Blue When it comes to S/S17 interior trends, Graham & Green is covering all the bases. The brand’s new range of furniture and home accessories is available in a variety of vibrant shades, while designs are inspired by Art Deco and Scandinavian styles. Thanks to La La Land and Beauty and the Beast, yellow is top of the colour chart this season and Graham & Green therefore has a number of pieces upholstered in zesty lemon, canary or mustard. Alternatively, opt for cooling shades of turquoise blue as presented in the New York Sofas Collection (pictured left) for a minimal and relaxed look. From £685 to £4,150 for the New York Sofas Collection, 4 Elgin Crescent, W11, grahamandgreen.co.uk Caen chair with yellow seat, £275
Time Out Diptyque encourages us to take time out of our busy schedules and relax with the new room diffuser Le Sablier. The inventive hour glass-inspired design is finished with a gold sheath that has been perforated to give a delicate lace effect. The fragrance travels from one glass vessel to the other over the course of an hour, evaporating and filling the air with its aroma. Six scents are available, each one represented by a different colour. Fragrances include Orange Blossom, a subtle floral scent evoking the freshness of the Mediterranean, and spicy Ginger. £120 each, 195 Westbourne Grove, W11, diptyqueparis.com
Clockwise from top left: Book cover; ©Chris Tubbs Photography; ©Jenny Brandt Grönberg. All images courtesy of: ©A Beautiful Mess: Celebrating the New Eclecticism by Claire Bingham, published by teNeues, teneues-books.com
The Great Indoors
Globe Trotter
Image courtesy of: Rockett St George
Photography: Graham Atkins-Hughes
Interiors journalist Claire Bingham has travelled the globe in search of design inspiration and been invited into the homes of some of the world’s most stylish people. Now, she’s sharing her knowledge in new book, A Beautiful Mess:Celebrating the New Eclecticism. Influenced by the creative spaces she has visited, the illustrated tome explains why we should say goodbye to minimalism and hello to eclectic interiors. £29.95, teneues-books.com
For those of you who long for the great outdoors, but suffer from severe hay fever, Rockett St George has an extensive range of faux flowers and plants available. “Adding greenery and plants instantly lifts your interior and adds an important feeling of vitality. Palms are the easiest to look after and make a huge impact on a room,” says Lucy St George, the brand’s co-founder. Bring the outdoors inside with hanging terrariums, peonies and ivy garlands. From a selection, available at Harvey Nichols
Garden Party Oka’s Outdoor 2017 collection is getting us excited about the impending warmer weather. The Pienza range has relaxation in mind, comprising an ottoman, armchair and three-seater sofa. Push together the armchair and ottoman to make a day bed, and style with Oka’s new Chalai cushions for the ultimate in sun-lounger chic. For al fresco dining, look no further than the Orseno set (pictured above), which provides a considerably more comfortable picnic alternative. From £345 for the ottoman, 155-167 Fulham Road, SW3, oka.com
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Evasion duvet cover, from £220
Pillow Talk
As luxury French linen brand Yves Delorme opens its new store on Walton Street, Alice blunt speaks to the maison’s couture designer, Jérôme Delmas, about the brand’s global and timeless appeal First founded in 1845 by Ernestine Fremaux, Yves Delorme is a French brand steeped in history. Like any great maison, its timelessness can be put down to its ethos of creating luxury, high-quality products for its discerning clientele. This is something that Jérôme Delmas – the man behind Yves Delorme’s newest Couture collection, along with his business partner, Isabelle Chazé – understands all too well. For Delmas, there is little difference between a well-dressed person and a well-dressed bed, and when one is discussing couture bed linen, the comparisons are even more pronounced. For, like a custom-made outfit, it
is not about following the latest fashion trend, but about investing in classic pieces that will last a lifetime. Following its success in Harrods, Yves Delorme Couture has now become available in the brand’s second London location on Walton Street, which opened its doors this month and was designed by Delmas, who also designed the Paris and New York boutiques. With all three, it was his mission to capture the world of Yves Delorme, its heritage and its history, as well as be faithful to the cities and buildings in which they’re located. Here, he discusses his passion for combining interior design with fashion and why Yves Delorme is the Chanel of luxury bed linen.
lifestyle
From the beginning, Yves Delorme had a special department for creating special products. However, Isabelle and I wanted to create a new bed linen offer for special, discerning customers. So this is how we came up with Yves Delorme Couture – for people who want couture bed linen which they can personalise. We spoke to our president, Dominique Fremaux, and explained that we wanted to create a story, a history, a savoir-faire if you will. And it was very important for us to get across how Yves Delorme is already a luxury brand, but with Couture it’s high luxury. Yves Delorme is a real maison with real heritage. In many ways, it reminds me of the house of Chanel. We refer to our founder, Ernestine Fremaux, in the same way as people speak about Coco Chanel because like her, she wanted to create a story through her maison. Isabelle and I worked together for seven years before we joined Yves Delorme and together we created Couture within a year. Isabelle is a premier d’atelier or highly qualified embroiderer and is often referred to as ‘The Hand’, while I am called ‘The Eye’ as the designer. For us, it’s very important for our clients to feel as though each of the products we sell is created just for them. This is why the Yves Delorme logo is very discreet on all of our packaging. For Couture, the logo and the brand name are not the most important thing. This is why we work closely with our clients and sometimes it’s a surprise because they come to us asking for unusual colour combinations, but it always turns out really interesting and beautiful. It’s good to have a fresh point of view. As with anything bespoke, there is and always will be demand. In terms of the global market, Couture customers are often international and we have to answer to their needs from across the world and be very careful about quality, service and supply.
Couture collection, price on application
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Alliance duvet cover, from £220
I wanted a collection that was elegant, but well dressed, with many details in terms of patterns, fabrics and finish. It’s like creating a custom-made jacket or bespoke lingerie; it has to be beautifully made and easy to wear. We wanted it to be a well-dressed bed. It’s modern in all of the details and fabrics, but classic in the design. We worked closely with a small team to ensure there’s continuity throughout our stores. The main difference between the stores is that we respect the buildings and the cities in which they’re located. In our New York flagship store, the space is smaller, but it’s truly New York in its modernity. When I came up with our first concept in London in Harrods, I imagined a Rolls-Royce. We have similarly incorporated this British touch in our new Walton Street store. The whole feel is modern, but with a sense of comfort. There’s a wool carpet that was designed exclusively for Yves Delorme. We have two types of wood, contemporary walnut and cherry wood, along with chrome details and an off-white backdrop, overall giving a subtle, modern finish that enables the pieces to stand out. The Walton Street store has three levels and a garden so it’s almost like a house. It’s a very couture setting. Clients need to be able to imagine the products in their own home so the Yves Delorme collection, created by designer Laurence Rouet, and Yves Delorme Couture can be viewed without any packaging on the drapery’s table. There’s also plenty of natural light thanks to the skylight. I prefer working in interior design, but mixing interior design with fashion. Bed linen allows me to combine the two. I’m very interested in the decorative arts and in looking back at the past. Yves Delorme is a French brand, it’s classic, but we always have something to discover, something special and unique. There’s always the details, and they make all the difference. 158 Walton Street, SW3, 020 7589 4033, uk.yvesdelorme.com
Couture collection, price on application
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how does
Garden your
grow?
The cobalt blue walls of Yves Saint Laurent’s Jardin Majorelle are synonymous with Marrakesh and the tulips of Keukenhof with the Netherlands, but who are the gardeners behind them? Ellen Millard discovers the green-fingered mavericks who sowed the seeds of the world’s botanical masterpieces
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Fondly known as the Red City in homage to its terracotta walls, Marrakesh is, in fact, a metropolis of myriad colours, where riads are peppered with mosaic tiles and market stalls piled high with rainbow displays of spices, crockery and lanterns. But the biggest colour wheel of them all lies in the Jardin Majorelle, a garden of hypnotic hues first built in the 1920s by French artist Jacques Majorelle. It took the painter 40 years to perfect his most complex masterpiece; during this time he planted more than 300 species of plants, decorating the space with greenery from five continents and dyeing the walls in mesmerising shades of blue and yellow. It was opened to the public in 1947 and, following Majorelle’s death, was acquired by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, who sought to preserve the artist’s vision. Now, the space is as much associated with the late fashion designer as it is with its original creator, so much so that the urn in which Saint Laurent’s ashes were kept is on display in the garden and the ashes themselves were scattered there. But while Majorelle was the original mastermind behind the botanical beauty and Saint Laurent its saviour, the garden as we know it today was crafted by the nimble green fingers of another creative. In 1998, the fashion designer commissioned Abderrazak Benchaâbane to restore
“It was not a catalogue of plants that the garden needed, but a real restoration” the space to its former glory, providing the Latin names for each of the plants and adding a further 25 species to the mix in a process that took a decade to complete. “I realised that it was not a catalogue of plants that the garden needed, but a real restoration or even a rescue and a resurrection,” Benchaâbane tells me. “At that time, the garden was declining and suffering from a great lack of maintenance and organisation. I obtained carte blanche and the adventure lasted 10 years.” A childhood spent exploring the public gardens of Marrakesh stood Benchaâbane in good stead when he embarked on a career refining the great outdoors. He grew up watching his father working in the fields and his mother cultivating their patio garden, occasionally helping by weeding or picking fruit and vegetables, and when he went to university, he spent his spare time working in the institute’s botanical garden. His time at the Jardin Majorelle led him to develop a career in perfumery, spurred on by Saint Laurent, who commissioned him to create a fragrance for the garden’s gift shop. Naturally, he speaks fondly of the designer. “After the garden was closed to the public, he would
This page and opposite, images courtesy of: Jardin Majorelle
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pass long hours walking and meditating in his garden, listening to the songs of the birds, which returned every night to sleep on the branches of the trees,” the ethnobotanist recalls. “His taste and sense of colour have profoundly marked the aesthetics of the garden, without ever altering the design of its creator, Jacques Majorelle.” It’s no secret that design and botany have long gone hand in hand – one only needs to visit the RHS Chelsea Flower Show to see the world’s finest horticultural artists at work – and nature continues to be an eternal source of inspiration for creatives the world over. In France, half a million people visit the village of Giverny each year to discover the bountiful gardens artist Claude Monet obsessed over and which later came to define his work, while a rose garden in Christian Dior’s home in Granville was a source of much inspiration for the designer. In Mexico, Edward James built Las Pozas as a space to house his surrealist sculptures, an act that led Salvador Dalí to call him “crazier than all the Surrealists together”. In London, Kew Gardens is cemented in history as the home of Britain’s first water lily, which was grown by budding gardener and architect Sir Joseph Paxton and later inspired his design of Hyde Park’s Crystal Palace. In literature, J. M. Barrie’s Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens is inspired by the park from which he lived across, while Regent’s Park often crops up in books by Agatha Christie and Virginia Woolf. The capital’s Royal Parks have become as much a part of the urban landscape as the grandiose architecture that surrounds it, and this summer the Royal Borough will welcome a new green space into the mix: Kensington Palace is due to launch the White Garden, a temporary memorial to mark the 20th anniversary of the death of Diana, Princess of Wales. Further afield in Fitzrovia, London’s first new park for 100 years is to be built at Alfred Place. The significance of the world's urban landscapes nurturing the environment is not lost on Andrew Grant,
Clockwise from bottom left: Claude Monet’s garden in Giverny, photography: ©Foundation Claude Monet; Gardens by the Bay, photography: Daniel Poole; Jardin Majorelle, image courtesy of: Jardin Majorelle
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director and founder of landscape architecture firm Grant Associates, and the mastermind behind Singapore’s striking Gardens by the Bay project. “In the context of climate change, mass urbanisation, biodiversity loss and depletion of resources, including food and water, we see it as our duty and opportunity to promote more landscape-led projects, such as Gardens by the Bay, across the world,” he tells me. Those who haven’t heard of Gardens by the Bay will no doubt recognise it by the lofty Supertrees that tower over the park, the highest sitting tall at 50 metres. These vertical gardens mimic photosynthesis through solar energy and collect rainwater for irrigation, acting as a tool for the rest of the garden. The space is split into three – Bay Central, Bay East and Bay South – and then divided into a children’s garden, a flower dome, a horticultural garden and a cloud forest. “We thoroughly researched the cultural agenda and history of Singapore before coming up with the orchid as the key reference point. It is a cosmopolitan species, but is also the national flower and resonates deeply with Singaporeans,” Grant explains of the inspiration behind the design. As Singapore champions the orchid, other cities from around the world fly the flag for their nation’s favoured bloom, too. The Keukenhof gardens in the Netherlands, for instance, is famed for its annual rainbow display of tulips, first devised by landscape architect Jan David Zocher, who was commissioned by the garden's owners to show off the nation’s extensive collection of flowers. Now, it is famous for the 800 different species of tulips which it grows, and visitors flock to see the colourful
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exhibit each year. Elsewhere, at the Brooklyn Botanical Garden in New York, The Native Flora Garden, which was redesigned in 2013 by landscape architect Darrel Morrison, champions plants and flowers indigenous to the city. For Benchaâbane, orange blossom reigns as the floral champion – unsurprising, given that it lines the gardens and streets of Marrakesh. “There is all the sunshine in the scent of the orange blossom,” he says. “Its nectar has a tonic: soothing, sweet and an intoxicating wake.” No longer working at the Jardin Majorelle, Benchaâbane instead dedicates his time to the Musée de la Palmeraie, home to calligraphy and artwork chosen by the gardener himself and, of course, a collection of themed gardens that house spectacular displays of roses, aquatic plants and cactus. A lifetime under Morocco’s intense sun has clearly served the 58-year-old well and, when he speaks of his craft, it’s clear that retirement won’t be on the cards any time soon. “The botanist is in dialogue with plants and nature,” he says. “Every day he tries to break through the secret life of plants and marvel at nature and creation. The greatest gift that gardens and plants offer is their ability to push us to wonder.”
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lifestyle
Making the Move Whether upsizing or downsizing, or indeed moving a departing President out of the White House, Cadogan Tate is the mover of choice Transferring your life from one home to another is an incredibly stressful ordeal, not least for all the wrapping and unwrapping, the endless cardboard boxes and the heavy lifting. This is why the large majority of us call in a professional moving company. The relatively low cost of a good quality mover is a sensible and worthwhile investment. When it comes to your valued possessions, whether sentimental or delicate collectibles, who can you trust to pack them up and transfer them to a new home, whether from Clapham to Chelsea or halfway across the world? Cadogan Tate is no stranger to the world of highvalue, complex and time-sensitive moves. The company was founded in 1977 with a Luton van, an office in Covent Garden and storage facilities in Southwark. A year later, it was selected by Christie’s to transfer auction lots from its warehouse to its South Kensington sale rooms – now Cadogan Tate works with all the major global auction houses. Through its relentless focus on quality and customer service, Cadogan Tate has built up an incredibly loyal customer base by offering a flexible range of services and geographical locations. The company is based in north and south London, Paris, the Côte d’Azur, New York, Miami and Los Angeles, and has more than half a million square feet of high-security temperaturecontrolled warehousing. As such, Cadogan Tate provides specialised moving, storage, international shipping and insurance services to individuals, families, businesses and governments covering the entire UK, EU and USA, as well as all major worldwide destinations. Cadogan Tate has moved a 1,200-person marketing firm in central London overnight; flown
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Cadogan Tate outside the White House
replacement financial trading servers via private jet to New Jersey in the wake of Hurricane Sandy; transported a personal art collection worth more than $300 million from Geneva to Hampstead; and relocated more than 20,000 items of smoking ephemera from London to a private museum in Turkey. Nevertheless, by far the largest number of assignments the company undertakes each year is the moving and storage of thousands of private homes. One of the more high-profile moves recently completed was for top interior designer Michael S. Smith, who called to book a move in Washington on Inauguration Day. Rescheduling to a quieter time was desirable, but clearly impossible as the client in question was President Barack Obama. The instructions were simple if daunting: the move was to be completed in no more than four hours under the direction of the secret service and White House staff, and the movers were to know nothing about the property until arrival. Cadogan Tate’s moving teams are used to providing immaculate service under complex conditions, so it was no surprise that Michael S. Smith’s beautiful room sets were safely installed in the departing President’s elegant new home. Cadogan House, 239 Acton Lane, NW10, 020 8963 4000, cadogantate.com
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Flower Lauren Stevens gets some tips from Charlie McCormick, whose Instagram account is inspiring a new generation of gardeners Until recently, gardening was a pastime I thought I’d enjoy slightly later in life, too preoccupied with social media to consider developing green fingers any time soon. And yet, this – ironically – was how I first stumbled across Charlie McCormick – a young man who is transforming the traditional image of gardening through Instagram, where he is currently just shy of 40,000 followers. It was McCormick’s grandparents who “planted the seed” (as he aptly puts it) for his interest in horticulture, which began at the tender age of eight when he would enter local shows, creating miniature gardens and flower arrangements in his native New Zealand. The young gardener has since made some giant steps – from moving to the UK to eventually building his own brand. “I think that English gardens are a whole level beyond any other sort of gardens; that’s my personal view, anyway,” he tells me. “England has the perfect climate for loads of different plants.” McCormick resides in Dorset with his husband, interior designer Ben Pentreath, and while Penreath was responsible for decorating the inside of their home, McCormick was in charge of transforming the garden, which was in a tired state before he got his hands on it.
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“My favourite job is our garden at home – that goes without saying. I think your own garden is always the best because you can spend so much time in it, whereas if you create a garden for someone else, it’s amazing but, if they’re not interested, it loses its charm. “My favourite part of my garden is the dahlia border, which isn’t in bloom yet,” he continues. “I imagine I’m going to be seeing a lot of them on Instagram this year.” The popularity of his own Instagram page can perhaps be attributed to his colourful and unique style, which has been recognised worldwide by publications such as The Telegraph and The New York Times. “I’d say my style is a tapestry of colours and textures. It’s quite wild; I don’t mind some weeds growing. I’m a big fan of colour – probably a bit too much colour,” he says with a smile. This is perhaps why he is excited about his predictions for gardening trends this coming year. “I think 1950s- and 1960s-style gardening is making a comeback, which I love,” he comments. “Another trend is rare plants, which I’m growing a lot of, as well as the sort of flowers that haven’t really had a moment in a long time which have been bred to some nice colours – plants like gladioli, begonias and hybrid tea roses in more shocking colours, which I think are quite fun.” Finally, does McCormick have any tips for those looking to redesign their own garden as the long summer afternoons draw closer? “Don’t be afraid of trying things out; I think that’s key,” he advises. “But also, what’s really important is that you get your soil tested, because you can find out exactly what it’s deficient in. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, it will really help you with what you can and can’t grow, plus what you need to add to your soil to get it a lot healthier. Because then, obviously, your plants will be a lot happier.” Find Charlie McCormick on Instagram at @mccormickcharlie, mccormick.london
Charlie’s TOP PICKS Favourite flower: Dahlia Most beautiful garden in the world: Rousham House in Oxfordshire Best botanical-inspired cocktail: I don’t really drink cocktails, but I love a Bloody Mary Ultimate vegetables: Broad beans, courgettes and beetroot Favourite summer pudding: Fresh summer fruits with chocolate tart
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Main image: Charlie McCormick portrait, photography: Ben Pentreath; all other images: Charlie McCormick’s garden in Dorset, photography: Charlie McCormick
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It’s never too late...
LUXURY BODY BUTTER IN WHITE CASHMERE FROM THE BATH & BODY COLLECTION
www.lilouetloic.com
&
HEALTH BEAUTY BY olivia sharpe
Lip Service
Image courtesy of: Dolce & Gabbana
Lips are usually last on the list when it comes to our beauty care regime, but it is just as important to keep them as hydrated, nourished and protected as our skin, particularly during the summer months. The ever-expanding Korean beauty market offers an array of products dedicated to creating the perfect pout, from jelly lip masks to exfoliating scrubs. However, Dolce & Gabbana has the quick-fix answer with its new range of lipsticks, offering both intense colour and care in one application. Each of the 16 shades, ranging from soft nude to sunny coral, contains emollient oils which soften the skin and leave a protective film that doesn’t affect the overall radiant finish. Miss Sicily lipstick, £27 each, available from 1 May, exclusive to Harrods, harrods.com
Image courtesy of: Jo Malone London
Turn a Hair There has been a subtle rise in the number of hair mists (also known as hair perfumes) on the market, with the likes of Dior, Thierry Mugler and Chanel all having created versions using their most popular scents. Next to join the fray is British brand Jo Malone, which debuts its first hair mist this month. With delicate notes of magnolia interspersed with zesty orange flower and lemon, this spring scent is guaranteed to leave your locks smelling as fresh as they did on the first-day wash (even when its the third day). London Star Magnolia Hair Mist, £38 for 50ml, available from 1 May, jomalone.co.uk
Mon Guerlain Spring heralds a burst of new fragrances and one that everyone should introduce to their olfactory wardrobe this season is Mon Guerlain. Angelina Jolie fronts the new perfume’s campaign and while this in itself would be enough of an endorsement, the fragrance house has not allowed style to take over substance. The oriental scent, featuring notes of vanilla, lavender, jasmine and sandalwood, truly embodies “the scent of a woman”. Mon Guerlain, from £45, guerlain.com
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High Brow As we prune our gardens ready for summer, there’s also no better time than to tend to our unruly eyebrows. Suman Jalaf’s (of Suman Brows) reputation has been steadily growing in the UK, having tended to the famous faces of Emilia Fox and Poppy Delevingne. She offers waxing and threading, but will invariably convert her clients to the latter. While more painful, the benefits are indisputable, Tom Ford Brow presenting a cleaner, more Sculptor in taupe, £36, available at natural look. She creates Selfridges bespoke brows and along with tinting, she is an expert in microblading, a technique whereby a tiny handheld blade filled with pigment is used to give a flawless finish. Suman is currently based out of Chelsea’s Clo & Flo, but is on the lookout for her own premises. Bespoke eyebrow shaping from £25, 55 Old Brompton Road, SW7, sumanbrows.com
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Alber Elbaz and Frédéric Malle, all images courtesy of: Brigitte Lacombe
Superstitious
Minds
In an unexpected but exciting collaboration, former Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz and luxury perfumer Frédéric Malle have partnered together to concoct a new fragrance. Olivia Sharpe hears from the two great minds, whose chance meeting over lunch sparked the creation of Superstitious
health&beauty
It has been over a year since Alber Elbaz left Lanvin, the label where he had spent 14 years at the helm. This very public fashion divorce was met with much shock by the industry and Elbaz did nothing to hide his heartbreak, summing up the split in an interview with British Vogue as “my tragedy”. “Since I left Lanvin I have a huge scar… If I ever find an interesting job that will make me want to wake up again, I'll teach every Friday and work one day in a hospital. There's no formula. But I don't want to think about Lanvin.” Fortunately, Elbaz didn’t have to wait long for his creative powers to be reawakened, as soon after he was asked by French perfumer Frédéric Malle to partner with him on an exciting new project: a luxury fragrance. Malle – whose niche fragrance house Éditions de Parfums has been going from strength to strength since launching in 2000 and two years ago was bought by Estée Lauder – had been an admirer of Elbaz’s work for many years. When he eventually invited the designer out for lunch, he found they shared a mutual appreciation for the “irrational” and “instinctual” nature of design. The pair therefore did away with the established and restricted codes of design and let their imaginations run free; the end result is a product of this free-spirited dialogue and the “friendship and love” they developed for each other along the way. Before meeting Elbaz, Malle had already been working on a scent with his long-term perfume partner Dominique Ropion; a “grand aldehyde floral with a classic architecture” as he describes it. After realising the
similarities between the two creatives, Malle approached Elbaz with the idea of adapting the scent and he proceeded to infuse his signature style. Proving that you can take the boy out of fashion, but never fashion out of the boy, Elbaz worked on the fragrance as if it were a couture gown, designing a scent that is on first appearances simple, but has hidden depth and construction within. Named Superstitious, the complex floral perfume is distinctive and sophisticated, like its creators, and is composed of luxurious raw materials, including essence of Turkish rose, Egyptian jasmine, Haitian vetiver and patchouli, to name a few. A true fashion-meets-fragrance collaboration, it is just as Elbaz imagined: “the scent of a dress”.
“Superstitious was not so much about a collaboration as it was a meeting of minds and mutual admiration”
How did the two of you meet? AE: We met through a mutual friend, Elie Top. Actually, Frédéric asked Elie for my number, and then just called and asked me out to lunch. I knew of Frédéric’s gorgeous stores in Paris, and I had also seen his perfumes at Barneys in New York, but I didn’t know him personally at all and I didn’t know if this sort of collaboration would be right for me. So I was hesitant at first. And then I met Frédéric and I really liked him, and during the process of creating the fragrance we became close friends. Now I feel like the perfume is a result of that friendship and love. In the end, we didn’t have to follow anything but our hearts. How did the pair of you combine your creativity and design processes? FM: Superstitious was not so much about a collaboration as it was a meeting of minds and mutual admiration. We truly respected one another’s creative visions. I’ve admired Alber Elbaz for many years, starting in the late ‘90s when Pierre Bergé chose him to take the helm of Yves Saint Laurent. Then when Alber began designing at Lanvin, my wife Marie often wore his dresses. When we first started meeting, I told Alber that I always begin my projects with a concept. Alber immediately knew what that concept would be: he said he wanted the scent of a dress. Why is it called Superstitious? AE: Aside from the fact that Frédéric and I are both very superstitious, the idea for the fragrance is linked to intuition – rather than following the established rules and codes for how to create luxury, we follow our instincts. Or put another way, it’s about leaving knowledge and going back to feelings.
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health&beauty
For what sort of occasion is Superstitious suited? FM: Superstitious is one smell with many facets, and this one scent has been decided by us and locked into a very specific blend, or ‘story’ if you will. Then, like reading a good book, people will smell this perfume and see the images that they want to see. Are there any similarities between creating a perfume and designing a fashion collection? AE: It’s similar in that it’s a process of creation. It starts with a blank page. You don’t have a reference point other than your own ideas because you want to create something new. But the difference here is that I felt that my role was that of a storyteller and then the perfumer translates the story into a perfume. Frédéric gave me the key to this world of perfumes; that was very generous of him. Frédéric, you have a strong ties with the fashion world as the grandson of Serge Heftler Louiche (founder of Parfums Christian Dior) and having previously partnered with Dries Van Noten. In what ways do the worlds of fashion and perfumery go together? FM: I think they’re very complementary. I’ve worked on a lot of perfumes with Dominique Ropion, who is probably the perfumer who works most like an architect. He’s not a stylist. His fragrances are balanced in unexpected ways. It is similar in many ways to how Alber creates dresses that appear as though they’re floating on women, but in fact there is a secret architecture behind them. This is when I realised there were parallels between Dominique and Alber. It was very instinctual for me to suggest introducing Dominique’s fragrance to Alber, because it was the perfect illustration of the way I think of Alber’s work.
Alber, after leaving Lanvin you were quoted in an interview saying that you wanted to create newness in your next project; do you think you have achieved this with your fragrance? AE: It’s a perfume that could be done in Africa, and it could also be done in Paris. And it could be something that was done in the 1930s, and maybe even in 2018. I think that today when everything has to be à la mode, there is something universal and timeless about what we created here, almost like a dream. What do you enjoy about doing collaborations? FM: My love in life is to work with artists, whether they are perfumers, architects, fashion designers. When I work on a product that is made around these other creative minds, we take a leap of faith by working with perfume as a medium, but thinking of it like other art forms. Working with other artists is an enriching experience for me. I always learn from them and they inspire me to push myself further. What type of woman has Superstitious been created for? AE: I always say that when I design, I have in mind the women I love. Superstitious — Alber Elbaz for Frédéric Malle, £158 for 50ml, available at liberty.co.uk
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SWITCH ON
LO NDON’ S FINEST HEA LT H C LUB I S CO MING TO K EN SIN GTON •
P R A M A – Lond on’s first high-tec h fa m ily workout
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05/04/2017 17:15
A Thing of
Beauty
Following her resignation from her eponymous make-up label last year, Bobbi Brown is back to tackle a different side of the beauty industry. She tells Ellen Millard about her new health and wellness book, her fitness regime and her revolt against contouring
ot even a minute has passed since I began my phone conversation with Bobbi Brown, but I already understand why hers is one of the most recognised names in the beauty industry. Aside from the fact that it is plastered across glossy black blusher palettes, eye gels and lipstick capsules that line the shelves of most department stores (and fill the make-up bags of most women), Brown's steely focus, characteristically American ‘can-do’ attitude and nononsense approach are a shoo-in for a business coup. That’s not to mention her knowledge of the beauty world, which she now knows like the back of her hand. First starting out as a budding make-up artist in New York, Brown quickly caught the eye of fashion dignitaries with her preferred natural aesthetic – an antonym to the heavy 1980s look that was circulating at the time. “I always wanted to be prettier,” she says candidly as she explains her first brush with make-up. “I never thought I was, and now when I look back at pictures I was actually really pretty, but I didn’t feel it. I started using make-up as a way to feel prettier, and it worked.” She took this USP and applied it to others, making “people look better” with a more natural approach to make-up. It was this that led her to create her eponymous label in 1991, starting out with a line of 10 lipsticks that came in a variety of natural shades to suit all manner of skin tones. A range of foundation sticks came out the following year, and by 1995 Brown had garnered enough interest to sell her brand to Estée Lauder Companies Inc. She maintained creative control until 2016, when she stepped down from her role as chief creative officer. Now the brand is a household name and, if the stats on Estée Lauder’s website are to be believed, it
health&beauty
employs 5,200 make-up artists worldwide and sells not one but two of its Long-Wear Gel Eyeliners every minute. Brown herself is seen as an authority in the industry and so, having made her fortune teaching women how to enhance their appearance cosmetically, it comes as somewhat of a surprise to learn that her first venture post-Estée Lauder champions the beauty within. A new book, Bobbi Brown’s Beauty from the Inside Out, highlights the roles played by wellness, nutrition and exercise in our appearance, as well as offering beauty tips and advice on achieving the ‘natural’ look. “It has been an evolution of what I have always believed and what I have always practised, which is what you eat and how you take care of yourself affect the way you look,” she tells me. “I’m not an expert, but what I am is really curious and I know the things I’ve done that have made a difference in my life. There are a lot of reputable experts in the book and I talk a lot about what really works for me and what doesn’t.” Juice cleanses and fad diets, she tells me, are the things that don’t work for her; instead, she champions “lifestyle changes”, such as walking more, drinking more water and increasing the amount of vegetables one eats. The book is divided into tips for nutrition, fitness, mental wellness, how to achieve clear skin and, of course, make-up. One section offers recipes for clean eating, while another waxes lyrical on the correlation between low stress and a clear complexion. As someone who has worked flat out for the past quarter of a century but still looks at least a decade younger than her 59 years, what are her secret stress-busters? “First of all, I look really good on vacation,” she laughs. “I am a type-A, very high-functioning person so I am absolutely drinking more water and trying to breathe more, which – believe it or not – helps. “I love funny TV shows and funny movies, and I love a good cocktail. All of those are great stress reducers,” she continues. “Modern Family is just mindless and funny; I feel I know all of the characters. I also watch an enormous amount of news. It seems to calm me down and not stress me out, I don't know why.” Indeed, she is chirpy when I speak with her despite
the snowstorm that has grounded her flight to London and messed up a week’s worth of diary dates – but I imagine that, after 25 years at the helm of one of the world’s biggest beauty brands, it doesn’t take much to phase the make-up mogul. I am poised to get the gossip on her departure, but Brown says simply that it was time to move on; there’s no bad blood between her and her former employer, and she speaks highly of the brand that she’s left behind. “Growing this brand based on confidence, wellness and self-esteem through make-up was so amazing and probably ahead of its time,” she says. “I’m very proud of what the brand is and how it really does help so many women feel good about themselves, but now I’m pretty excited about my new journey.” In an article she penned for lifestyle website Refinery 29 shortly after her resignation was announced, Brown highlighted her concerns over the rising trend for contouring and encouraged people to use make-up as a tool to enhance their appearance, rather than cover it up. “I plan to be a part of this new revolution of beauty again, just as I was nearly 30 years ago,” she wrote at the time. Her book, it seems, is the first stage of Brown’s revolt, encouraging people to think more about what they put into their bodies in order to achieve the best results externally. When she’s not staging a protest or penning a new book, Brown is busy designing the interiors of a 32room hotel due to open this autumn in her hometown in Montclair, New Jersey. Along with this, she’ll be over in the UK in the summer to celebrate the launch of her new book, and will be continuing to develop her range of glasses under her label, Bobbi Brown Eyewear. When I ask her what the future holds, it doesn’t sound like relaxation is high on the agenda, but she assures me that’s just the way she likes it: “As long as I am creating, whether it’s products or content or anything, I'm happy.”
“Growing this brand based on confidence, wellness and self-esteem through makeup was so amazing”
Left: Bobbi Brown, photography: Ben Ritter; All other images courtesy of: Chronicle Books, photography: Ben Ritter, Jon Paterson and Sarah Elliott
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Bobbi Brown's Beauty from the Inside Out by Bobbi Brown and Sara Bliss is available from 18 April, £16.99, published by Chronicle Books, chroniclebooks.com
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Kids KINGDOM BY lauren stevens
Wild Thing It is customary when one enters a maze to get lost amidst the winding hedgerows, but we defy kids to lose themselves or their friends wearing Gucci’s new S/S17 collection. Drawing on its adult range, the brand has created a selection of statement pieces featuring loud animal and floral motifs. Four dresses have been designed exclusively for Harrods, including a summery blue and yellow number, all of which will be available to purchase in the Mini Superbrands department. From £610 to £1,290 for the dresses, exclusive to Harrods
Cry me a River
Little Explorers
The latest range from Mungo & Maud has been designed for dogs with style. The Nile collection is inspired by boat journeys down its namesake river, offering a collar and lead made from crocodile pattern-embossed leather. The two products both arrive in rich colours of gold and blue, designed to match stylish leather luggage and the accessories one might carry while travelling with man’s best friend. From £59.50, mungoandmaud.com
Timeless childrenswear brand Les Petites Abeilles is based on vintage fashion and childhood memories, with smocked products at the core of the brand. Gaining widespread attention after HRH Prince George was spotted wearing the smocked sailboat romper, the label – which was founded by Princess Désirée von Hohenlohe – has just released a summer capsule collection exclusively for Yoox. The sport-inspired line celebrates a number of summer activities, from swimming and sailing to hiking and tennis. From £27, yoox.com
PET’S
CORNER
Green Garden Mini Rodini’s inspiration for S/S17 is Isola Bella, a small island on the Italian lake Lago Maggiore. Created using 99 per cent sustainable materials – including a heavy knit yarn made out of recycled denim – prints are reminiscent of buzzing insects, animal sculptures and blossoming flowers from the island’s botanical garden. Key pieces include a unicorn star woven dress, a beige trench coat (certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard) and a denim hooded parka. From £13, minidrodini.com
Sister Sister Online retailer and women’s readyto-wear brand Muzungu Sisters specialises in providing exclusive and sustainable products, and has previously collaborated with the likes of Missoni and Olympia Le-Tan. Its most recent collaboration is with luxury childrenswear brand La Coqueta, offering a 10-piece capsule range for boys, girls and babies that incorporates signature details from both brands, including fine materials, colourful pom-poms and embroidery. From £45, lacoquetakids.com
Barbie Girl Not only is Barbie every little girl’s best friend, but since her arrival in 1959 she has also become one of the world’s ultimate style icons. A new book, The Art of @Barbie Style, is a visual collection of imagery capturing Barbie and her friends, including snaps from her own Instagram account, @BarbieStyle. “My whole philosophy of Barbie was that a little girl could be anything she wanted to be. Barbie always represented the fact that a woman has choices,” said Ruth Handler, co-founder of toy company Mattel and creator of Barbie. This collector’s edition is sure to strike a nostalgic chord with many and confirm that life is not only plastic, but fantastic. £38, assouline.com
Spring Chick Ethical childrenswear brand Bumble & Ava introduces its first collection for spring 2017. Designed in London, the clothes are manufactured in Kenya in a factory that is part of the World Fair Trade Organization. Informed by her expertise in interior design, Natasha Bumble, whose career began by designing clothes for her daughter Ava, manipulates colours and textiles to create fresh patterns in vibrant fabrics. A signature product is the Ava dress, which arrives in four new floral versions this season. £49, bumbleandava.com
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CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE IN THE HEART OF THE CITY CITY OF LONDON | OPENING JUNE 2017
DISCOVER MORE info.city@dorsetthotels.com dorsetthotels.com/unitedkingdom/london/city
high life
train of thought Belmond’s new Andean Explorer is a major upgrade from one’s daily commute. South America’s first luxury sleeper train allows you to travel through the stunning Peruvian landscape in unrivalled style. Choose from a selection of one- or two-night itineraries, journeying through Cusco, Puno and Arequipa. After a day out discovering the country’s vibrant cities and natural wonders, unwind in your own personal sanctuary, with cabins featuring alpaca wool and handwoven fabrics. Next, head into the dining car for fresh dishes made using locally sourced ingredients, or sit back and enjoy the views with a pisco sour in hand. Launches 1 May, from £348 pp per night, belmond.com
Image courtesy of: Belmond
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Travel
THE WORLD By Alicia Osborne-Crone
Journeying Jerusalem
Image courtesy of: Brown Hotels
Once a privately owned 19th-century villa, the Villa Brown Jerusalem was considered one of the most impressive buildings in the city, and would often play host to events and meetings for the local elite. Now, fully renovated with two extra floors, a rooftop spa and 24 luxurious rooms and suites, the property is ready to fulfil the needs of the modern globetrotter. Located just five minutes away from Jerusalem’s Old City and featuring an underground cave bar that was once the old well, this is the perfect fusion between luxury and history. From $255 per night, brownhotels.com
Closer to Home Images courtesy of: Sugar & Loaf
Sugar & Loaf
Keep it on the Lowell You don’t have to stay in London, which plays host to the Chelsea Flower Show this month, to see beautiful outdoor settings. Paying homage to Jacques Majorelle, the creator of Yves Saint Laurent’s Marrakesh-based garden, The Lowell Hotel in New York has opened the Majorelle restaurant. The establishment has been designed using the garden’s famous blue and yellow colour scheme, while the menu has been created by top chefs. With exotic plants and fountains, The Lowell has created a zone of tranquillity within the bustle of the city. lowellhotel.com
Sugar & Loaf has expanded its boutique cottage collection to the beautiful countryside of Shropshire with Ludlow Barn and Tenbury Cottage. Both self-catered properties have an open-plan layout that is ideal for socialising and can be rented either separately or together for a group of up to 13. If you feel the need to venture out, head into the historic town of Ludlow for a traditional country pub lunch, or explore the acres of private fields featuring local wildlife. Suitable for couples, families and groups, this is a truly chic country retreat – and the dog is welcome to come along, too. From £502 for three nights at Tenbury Cottage, from £968 for three nights at Ludlow Barn, sugarandloaf.com
Home on the Range Surrounded by wild flowers, orchards, vineyards and herb gardens, La Donaira is a hidden gem set within 620 acres of mountainous land. In the midst of it all lies a century-old Andalusian farmhouse, which has been sensitively restored by local craftsmen to create an eco-luxury retreat. Unwind in the newly refurbished spa, which features an 18-metre indoor heated pool overlooking the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. Alternatively, for those who want to brush up on their rodeo skills, horse-riding lessons are available on site. From €250 per night, ladonaira.com
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Koh Samui’s most exclusive and discrete luxury villa estate, Samujana is positioned in the most sought-after location on the island. Offering complete privacy just a few minutes’ drive from Samui International Airport, the estate boasts a hill-top location just a short distance from the stunning beaches of Choeng Mon and popular Chaweng. +66 (0) 77 423 465 RESERVATIONS@SAMUJANA.COM
Pure
Shores
Forget Full Moon parties and beach huts, Koh Samui is now a byword for luxury resorts, sunset cruises and first-class spas. Lauren Romano indulges in the opulent side of island life at Samujana Retreats and Residences
The first thing that hits me when I touch down at Samui International Airport is the heat, which hangs like a heavy blanket over Koh Samui. It’s dusk and the tributary streets stemming from the main highway spring to life after the lethargy of the day. From the backseat of the taxi, I see the local islanders going about their business: weaving between market stalls piled high with plump mangos, papayas and dragon fruit; repairing motorbikes; watching the evening unfold from prime seats outside the string of kerbside canteens. There are no neon-painted ravers to be seen in this unspoilt part of town. The second thing I notice, after I acclimatise to the heat and the hubbub, is the sunset. The horizon is stained
a becoming shade of rose quartz by the time the taxi turns off the road and begins the steady ascent to Samujana, perched on a hill on Koh Samui’s rugged north-east coast, a five-minute drive from the airport. One of the first luxury resorts to be developed on the island, Samujana is a benchmark for understated, barefoot opulence. Its 25 villas range from three to eight bedrooms and come equipped with spectacular infinity pools, Jacuzzis, gyms, cinema rooms, massage suites and private beach access – but it’s the view that steals the show. Architect Gary Fell designed the estate around the vistas, and his tiered modernist structures frame some
travel
call on the Samujana chefs to prepare something special. I take advantage of this service on my first evening, and tuck into an authentic feast of green papaya salad and a rich beef massaman curry, followed by the most addictive mango sticky rice, drizzled with coconut cream.
The sight of coconut palms swaying in the distance has an almost hypnotic effect
impressive scenes. From the terrace at villa six – my home for the next few nights – the sight of coconut palms swaying in the distance has an almost hypnotic effect, while my bedroom has floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides, meaning I have a front-row seat to watch night fall over the coral cove below. Natural obstacles, from towering rock faces to mature trees, have been woven into the fabric of the development rather than bulldozed, and the interior design offers a neutral canvas that showcases the surrounding landscape. Lofty, colonial-style ceilings, white walls and dark teak floors create an airy and calming feel, and additional touches, such as the glorious outdoor shower, increase the at-one-with-nature feel. Samujana prides itself on offering a personalised service for both holidaymakers and owners (a selection of the villas are available for sale and are managed by the estate). My villa hosts Tee and Yam are on hand to cater to my every whim, and chart my movements as I do a daily circuit from the infinity pool, to the sundeck and the shaded outdoor living room, supplying a steady stream of ice-cold beverages and fresh towels without me having to ask. The set-up here is perfect for those who want to fly and flop. I enjoy an invigorating Thai massage in the privacy of my own spa suite, work up a sweat in a Muay Thai boxing session, and take part in a one-on-one cooking class where I learn how to whip up wok-fried clams and pad Thai – all without having to leave the villa. Come mealtimes, you can order ceviche to your sun lounger, raid the well-stocked minibar and wine fridge, or
s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s
While it is undoubtedly tempting to stay put and not leave the sanctuary of your villa, Samujana encourages guests to experience what the island has to offer beyond its gates. If you can tear yourself away from the pool, the team is on hand to curate cultural excursions to temples and rum distilleries, shuttle you to the nearby public beaches – from the family-friendly Choeng Mon to the livelier Chaweng – and advise where to eat at the buzzing Fisherman’s Village food market that takes place every Friday. Of course, the best way to experience island life is to take to the water and charter a yacht, speedboat or catamaran from the resort’s impressive fleet. One afternoon we set sail on the beautiful 13-metre Kindred Spirit and head to Ang Thong Marine Park, a pristine archipelago of islands, to while away the hours swimming, snorkelling and dolphin spotting. On our return to Samujana, the chefs are stoking the coals for a barbecue of tiger prawns with tamarind sauce and red snapper wrapped in banana leaf – as another spectacular sunset plays out in the background. With its pristine beaches, unspoilt landscape and laid-back atmosphere, it’s not hard to see why Koh Samui has captured the imagination of backpackers flocking to the island’s beach huts over the years. Now, it’s the turn of the flashpacker, and those seeking a side order of luxury – and spectacular views – to go alongside the sunshine won’t be disappointed with a stay at Samujana. Villas at Samujana from £800 a night, samujana.com
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Another Day
Sun of
Travellers looking to swan around in the Maldives are increasingly spoilt for choice. CAMILLA APCAR visits two new destinations, and considers just how sustainable tourism is for this equatorial paradise where eco-luxury is king
travel
he allure of the Maldives is obvious. During the day it’s blue as far as the eye can see, and once the sun spectacularly sets, a galactic view twinkles above. More than other international island getaways, it has burgeoned in past few years. Last year especially, a swathe of new developments opened – perhaps against the odds. Developing a resort here in is full of practical limitations, both in construction and by nature’s design. Islands can only be reached in daylight hours by seaplane or not-so-speedy boat. Accommodation must be built either on sand or over the sea. There is little escape from the sun’s glaring rays, nor anywhere to pop to for a brief change of scene. Fine dining, spa experiences and snorkelling to commune with fish are de rigueur: part of the challenge for hoteliers is to keep raising the Maldives’ seemingly limitless luxury. Soneva Jani, which opened in November, has succeeded. Its 24 one- to four-bedroom overwater villas sprawl from north to south within a 5.6km lagoon, 35 minutes north by seaplane from the country’s capital, Malé. The island that the villas jut out from on a wavy jetty is one of five. The others will remain untouched and uninhabited, making it, Soneva claims, the lowest density development in the Maldives. One four-bedroom island property has been built and bought, with more to be added (from $3m). This is a destination for couples or very young families – romantic by degrees, but sleekly stunning in white and a shade of wood that seems to glow when the sun hits it. Simply getting dressed in the morning feels like stepping into a picture perfect fashion shoot: Robinson Crusoe meets arbiters of 21st-century taste. After selling the Six Senses group, which he was also responsible for creating, British-born CEO and chairman Sonu Shivdasani founded Soneva Fushi in 1995 with his wife Eva. His experience shows – Soneva Jani is a masterclass in surrealism. Thirteen of the overwater villas have their own slides straight into the ocean. Retractable roofs open above the beds; sunken seating areas are set over glass portholes in the floor; netted canopies are suspended along the edge of private infinity pools. Finding the ideal spit of land for this seriously stylish playground took some time. “For a year and a half, at least one Sunday morning every month I would look at a map of the Maldives and detailed charts of the atolls within an hour by speedboat from Soneva Fushi,” says Shivdasani.
At Soneva Jani, 13 palatial overwater villas have slides straight into the ocean After visiting many islands, he found the Noonu Atoll lagoon of Medhufaru and the real work began. With a team of architects with whom it has worked for about 15 years, Soneva managed the construction process by hiring local groups. “We have found being the principal contractor the most efficient way of building,” Shivdasani reports. “When we opened Soneva Fushi 22 years ago, during the last two months we had to rely on air freights to secure vital items. Today the Maldives is a different environment. When one runs out of basic items, it is quite easy to find them in Malé.” Many loyal guests who knew Soneva Gili, one of Shivdasani’s former developments in the Maldives, “have described Soneva Jani as ‘Soneva Gili on steroids’”,
From top: Overwater villa slide; Cheese room, photography: Tiubro; One-bedroom overwater villa, photography: Richard Waite. Opposite page: Soneva Jani, photography: Artefficio R
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Clockwise from top: Milaidhoo’s Maldivian restaurant; Overwater villa; Spa
he says. “It is a bit like driving a Bentley that was on sale in 1999, and driving the latest model today. The bones are the same but the car has evolved considerably.” It’s true. The sheer space afforded to guests is a palatial warren – to the point of being absurd, with enough to easily sleep 20, and almost 30 doors in a one-bedroom villa alone. Upstairs, a sheltered sofa could comfortably seat ten; outside, there are two additional sinks, a sunken bathtub and a second shower. Soneva Jani offers the usual gamut of watersports and fish-finding activities, but has created new ways to immerse guests in their surroundings. An overwater cinema at the island’s farthest end; star gazing in its observatory; and paddling out to take in the view from a lone seastranded hammock tick hitherto inconceivable boxes. Food is served in a giant central open-air treehouse. Its three floors hold a juice bar, chocolate and cheese rooms to dip into throughout the day and an open kitchen. Everything is fresh, local as far as possible or even grown on the island itself: from artfully presented ceviche to simple charred baby asparagus with a cucumber noodle salad, fish with a tandoori twist or the most flavoursome mango sorbet imaginable. Taken privately on a deserted beach, even better. There is a heighted sense of environmentalism among developers in these parts. “Sustainability among hoteliers in the Maldives is pretty good when one compares it to development in other tropical regions,” Shivdasani comments. “That said, there’s much more we could all do.” For its part, Soneva Jani grows its own vegetables, produces its own drinking water (a precious commodity in a location with no municipal water supply), and aims to be a zero-waste resort, with materials composted, recycled or used in construction. “About 85 per cent of our waste is now recycled, and we are finding innovative ways to do so,” Shivdasani says. “More and more of our energy is powered by renewable – interestingly, this is cheaper than our diesel energy.” Another resort that opened in November is Milaidhoo, half an hour north of Malé, where sustainability measures are focussed under the sea. Milaidhoo is a drop in the middle of a coral reef within the Baa Atoll UNESCO biosphere reserve. Its drop off is easy to swim out to from the shore, and with two resident marine biologists, there’s little excuse not to go in search of Nemo, Dory and all their aquatic friends that didn’t quite make the films’ final cut.
However, the Maldives experienced extremely high levels of bleaching last summer. Around 60 per cent of the nation’s reefs were affected by high temperatures, which force out the algae living inside coral and turn it white, putting it in mortal danger when heat persists. Fish can help, but Milaidhoo takes its commitment to its surroundings seriously with a planting programme that invites guests to help collect pieces of broken – but not dead – coral to build new populations in a nursery. Milaidhoo also comes from well-established stock – the same hotelier responsible for Baros, the third resort to open in the Maldives, back in 1973. Its younger sister is resolutely Maldivian: the outside walls of beach villas are made of rough limestone and mortar, just how Maldivians used to build, using coral instead of limestone (aptly substituted); thatched roofs from local coconut leaves – a technique used here for centuries; and 66 per cent of employees are Maldivian, including the general manager. Its construction took about 16 months, following many more of research. Milaidhoo was built to cater
TRAVEL
to European travellers seeking an informal, barefoot experience and to spend time outdoors. The notion that the Maldives can become homely to visitors is hard to reconcile, but Milaidhoo succeeds through a combination of authenticity, none-too-serious magenta and turquoise decor, and the island’s manageable – but not claustrophobic – scale. It is small: 300 by 180 metres, with a tropical grove at the centre. Its circumference can be strolled in ten minutes. This also means that slowing down is inevitable, encouraged by a mood dining programme designed to induce a sense of calm, adventure or holiday spirit. On the ‘deep sleep’ menu is a curious passionfruit green tea soup, seafood salad, grilled tuna and a cheese plate – followed
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by a private meditation session, back massage and a bath ceremony (also private, it should perhaps be noted). But everything at Milaidhoo leads back to the sea. Bathtubs command views of the big blue; each villa’s ocean-facing deck has an infinity pool with star lights sparkling in its depths at night; the most impressive of the three restaurants is housed in two dhoni – traditional Maldivian fishing boats – with glass bottom panels running down the middle. The menu is inspired by the archipelago’s former spice route: coconut milk poached fish, yellow fin tuna loin with butternut pumpkin and chilli lime, and screw pine ice cream, nutty yet sweet. While their aims and commitment to sustainability are shared, Soneva Jani and Milaidhoo highlight two different approaches to the future of luxury in the Maldives. Being inventive enough to provide new experiences is at their core. Shivdasani intends to build two more resorts within an hour’s boat ride from either Soneva Fushi or Soneva Jani. “These will be slightly different concepts,” he says, “but new concepts that the Maldives needs.” Nor does it seem demand – never mind the nation’s capacity for tourism – has yet been reached. “We believe that demand for the Maldives will continue to grow,” Shivdasani continues. “We have two billion people living within short haul flying distance. This compares to European and American destinations that have only about 400 million short haul tourists. Eventually, when tourist destinations mature, 70 to 80 per cent of their business is short haul, so our proximity to such a large and growing market will benefit us in the future.” From $1,625, milaidhoo.com; from $1,870, soneva.com
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The loveliness of Lisbon has created a bit of a problem. It’s architecturally beautiful, historically fascinating and easy to get to, all of which has made it a mecca for the long weekend break set. So going against the crowd, I opt for a midweek jaunt to the Iberian Peninsula, keen to find out what is going on for those who want to sidestep the weekend hordes. Lisbon’s history is as convoluted and remarkable as that of any other continental capital. It’s older than both London and Paris, and local settlements can claim lineage further back than Rome. Legend has it that the city itself was founded by the heroic Ulysses on his return from Troy. There’s evidence all around from previous visitors. Steep winding streets lead up to the grand São Jorge Castle, a grand Moorish citadel, while down the slope in the historical Alfama (remember the name…) district, the imposing 12th century Lisbon Cathedral, with its crenellated turrets and gothic tombs, dominates the skyline. Historians will note that travellers out of Lisbon have had a fundamental impact on the modern world. It was from here, for instance, that Vasco da Gama set sail to unearth riches in the New World during the Age of Discovery. So what discoveries could I possibly make on a balmy autumnal Tuesday?
CHECK IN For those who want to feel spoiled, there’s a new spa hotel that demands closer inspection. The wondrous Santiago de Alfama (told you to remember the name…) is the result of a tasteful conversion of the 15th-century Palacio dos Castros. The beautiful vaulted entrance welcomes visitors in from the busy and cobbled Rua de Santiago – the street where Christopher Columbus, no less, got married – and leads into a calming and pleasantly perfumed guest house. Though the building is ancient, the hotel dates back to 2014 and boasts 19 tastefully appointed rooms and suites. I stay (and, incidentally, never wanted to leave) in the sprawling Deluxe Suite, which has access to the former palace courtyard. Some rooms (unfortunately not mine) have views of the mighty Tagus River and the multicoloured houses that stand defiant nearby. After a blissful night’s sleep, I enjoy eggs benedict and multiple lattes (necessary fuel for the sightseeing day ahead) al fresco at the hotel’s Audrey’s Café (one of three in-house restaurants). While busy, the friendly staff still make time to usher me up for some in-house sightseeing before I leave to explore the city. Guests staying here must check out the second-floor skywalk and peer through the reinforced glass down at the 2,000-year-old stone staircase. Rates from €365 for the Deluxe Suite, santiagodealfama.com
Weekend Break In...
Lisbon
David Lewis escapes the weekend hordes and heads to Lisbon midweek to discover the unpretentious charm of this historic city
TRAVEL
DINING OUT Lisbon has long been on the gourmand’s map for seafood and desserts and now a new generation of gastronomes continue to push it up the culinary chart. Chef José Avillez – with his two Michelin stars and handful of upmarket eateries to his name – is the man of the moment. His new-ish Bairro do Avillez restaurant in downtown Chiado – among many trendy fashion boutiques and a stone’s throw from the contemporary art museum – is part café, part gift shop, part light and airy restaurant. It’s a grand space over two stories under a glass ceiling dishing up delights to an international crowd. Fortunately for me, the menus are in English and the impeccable waiting staff are all fluent. Lisboetas like to enjoy a leisurely lunch even midweek and so expect to be there for well over the usual midweek lunch hour. My flawless four-course meal, with local cheeses, a lobster bisque, perfectly bloodied steaks all paired with wines, left me woozy. For something a little less formal, head over to nearby The Decadente. Younger diners in tighter jeans knock back no less tasty fare, albeit in a more hipster setting. Cocktails are tangy and tasty and sipped by glammed-up couples in the restaurant’s courtyard. joseavillez.pt, thedecadente.pt
suitcase ESSENTIALS
Hat, £75, paulsmith.co.uk
Sunglasses, £75, jaeger.co.uk
CULTURAL TOUR A perfect place to get to grips with the city is The Lisboa Story Centre. The innovative museum at the far end of the shop-lined Praça do Comércio tells the long and often melancholy tale of the Portuguese capital from early civilisations to its recent dictatorship and current democracy. It’s a cleverly balanced mishmash of headset commentary, video images and interactive displays. If you’ve got a head for heights then make straight for the Arco da Rua Augusta a few metres away on the square. Take the staircase up the bright white arch towers for an unbroken 360º view of the city and sea. Queues weren’t too long when I visited and it’s worth taking advantage of the lack of short-stay tourists. Next, I’d strongly recommend hopping on a tram to the fascinating Museu de Marinha, down the coast in the Belém neighbourhood. Tacked on to the side of Jerónimos Monastery, the naval museum houses some 17,000 artefacts, models and replicas harking back to the country’s former domination of the oceans during the Age of Discovery. The collection of beautiful maps alone make the trip worth it. End the day with a lovely glass of port and a sweet pastel de nata pastry high up at the breathtaking Santa Luzia lookout point in Alfama. Listen carefully and you might just make out some traditional fado guitar music spilling out of a local café. lisboastorycentre.pt; mosteirojeronimos.pt
Shirt, £80, Club Monaco, mrporter.com
Bag, £475, hackett.com
Trainers, £340, Saint Laurent, harrods.com
Clockwise from top: Church of Santa Engrácia; Audrey’s Café, Santiago de Alfama; Santiago Suite, Santiago de Alfama; Santiago de Alfama exterior; Jerónimos Monastery, Lisbon; A Fábrica de Santiago restaurant, Santiago de Alfama; Lisbon cityscape. Images courtesy of: Santiago de Alfama/Shutterstock
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& DINING
DRINKING
BY ellen millard
review
A New Leaf Sorry, PG Tips – there’s a new brew in town and it’s giving tea time a whole new meaning. From Lotusier comes the world’s first tea humidor, a crafty construction designed to store and preserve teas. Made from the finest materials, the box is available in five styles that adhere to the varying teamaking rituals performed around the globe: Cha Jing (China), Saicho (Japan), Indus (Indian subcontinent), Andalus (Middle East) and Déco (Europe and America). The slick vessel prevents humidity, light, air and odours from damaging the tea leaves, of which six different varieties can be stored. Pop the kettle on. From £7,000, lotusier.com
Enoteca Turi, Belgravia It has been just over a year since Enoteca Turi opened in Belgravia, having relocated from its original home in Putney after 25 years, but it seems like it has been there far longer. Indeed, in this short space of time, the family-run restaurant has already become somewhat of a favourite among locals looking for a sophisticated but welcoming dinner setting. It was founder Giuseppe Turi’s mission when he first opened his restaurant to bring authentic Italian cuisine to London. His vision is being executed today by Naples-born head chef Francesco Sodano, who arrived with the new premises. Dishes on the menu fall under different regions in Italy – Puglia, Sicily and Campania, being just a few – and each one’s simplicity and lack of pretension allows for the high-quality ingredients to shine through. To start, a succulent rabbit dish hailing from Piedmont (famed for its meaty dishes and use of root vegetables) has been delicately paired with lightly smoked English ricotta, red chicory and a smudge of black garlic puree, while seared scallops arrive having barely graced the pan with a lovely golden edge just concealing the perfectly cooked flesh within. The scallops are accompanied with a simple celeriac puree and scamorza (mild Italian cheese made from cow’s or buffalo’s milk).
As one would hope, all of the pasta dishes are excellent, but the cheese and black pepper tortillini with seared cuttlefish is by far the star, which tastes as lovely and well-executed as it looks. Mains range from lighter fish dishes to more heartier affairs. For a nice in-between, the fillet of monkfish is both delicious and warming, served with a flavoursome seafood broth. While Sodano’s signature tiramisu is a safe bet for dessert, I’d personally recommend the selection of Italian farmhouse cheeses served with walnut bread. This came paired with the distinctive Vin Santo sweet wine which, with its notes of dried fruits and nuts, proved the perfect accompaniment. The wine list at Enoteca Turi is exceptional, encompassing a total of 460 bottles, but with so much choice, I’d strongly suggest the wine pairing option with dinner. Inexpensive this is not, but then – when in Italy. By Olivia Sharpe 87 Pimlico Road, SW1W, enotecaturi.com
One in a Hundred If you’re yet to ogle the quirky interiors of The Exhibitionist Hotel, there’s no better excuse to pay a visit than the opening of its new restaurant. From the people behind the convivial One Hundred Hoxton comes One Hundred Kensington, a 30-cover eatery offering an à la carte menu of Asian fusion dishes – think Japanese-style Peking duck and tofu steak frites – and an afternoon tea of duck egg sandwiches and spiced pumpkin scones. 8-10 Queensberry Place, SW7, 100restaurants.co.uk
Full of Beans If you’ve had your fill of saccharine Frappuccinos, look to Earl’s Court’s Over Under Coffee for a simpler way to get your morning caffeine fix. In a bid to channel his homeland’s café culture, Kiwi founder Ed Barry took to the streets of west London to build his own version of the stripped-back eateries making waves down under. The result is a no-fuss café offering simple brews and tasty food, with beans home-roasted at Brixton’s Assembly Coffee. 181A Earl’s Court Road, SW5, overundercoffee.com
Grass Roots Having helped her diabetic father reduce his symptoms with a plant-based diet, cook Bonnie Stowell is serving her foodie facts to the masses with delicious dairy- and wheat-free meals that aim to improve your overall health and beauty. Her delivery service, Spring Green London, offers subscription packages with dishes designed to help the body produce collagen and provide anti-oxidants. Sign up and a tasty box containing the likes of pumpkin pasta, green pea burgers and beetroot fritters will be delivered straight to your door – sure to nip any unhealthy eating in the bud. From £36 per day for 10 weeks, springgreenlondon.com
Gin and Bear It While James Bond demands his martini be shaken – not stirred – we request ours be served on board a vintage locomotive driving through the English countryside. Good news for us, then, as Belmond British Pullman has partnered with Tanqueray No. Ten to create an evening of travel and gin-based mixology. On 11 May, guests will be treated to a seven-course menu, followed by a masterclass in mixing the ultimate martini using fresh fruits, herbs and spices, and a lesson in the botanicals behind Tanqueray’s famed spirit. From £450 per person, 11 May, departs from London Victoria Station, belmond.com
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Ahead of the launch of her new pop-up restaurant Table, Skye Gyngell tells Ellen Millard about tackling Britain’s problem with food waste, championing women in the industry and her 30-year love affair with London
Skye’s the
Limit This page: Skye Gyngell, photography: Carol Sachs; Opposite page: Spring, photography: Amber Rowlands; Fresh beetroot, courtesy of: Fern Verrow
Drinking&Dining
hen it comes to trends, the food industry certainly has its fair share of unconventional crazes. No longer reserved for the fashion pack, fads for foodies range from the sublime to the ridiculous and, in some cases, can linger in the most unlikely of ways. Kale, for instance, was not only the superfood du jour of 2013, but became the unfortunate name of 262 newborns in the US that year. And it doesn’t stop there; in the world of fanatic fodder, it seems that juices will forever be green, crusts eternally stuffed and breakfast never complete without a side of avocado and a Clarendon filter thanks to Instagram. But verdant monikers and hashtags aside, some trends can hold more water than initially predicted, and Skye Gyngell is hoping that the ones she’s championing will go some way to changing the nation’s habits of a lifetime. The Aussie chef – who brought Petersham Nurseries Café its first Michelin star back in 2011 – opened her own restaurant, Spring, in 2013, where she specialises in seasonal produce cooked in the simplest of ways. Shortly after, she launched Scratch, a pre-theatre set menu that allows diners to enjoy her cooking at a lower price point, aided by the fact that the dishes are made entirely from the food left over from her main restaurant. Now, in a bid to highlight the world’s problem with food waste, Gyngell is hosting a four-day pop-up event in conjunction with Photo London. A new community-eating concept, Table, will serve a menu created from excess produce, not just from Spring, but donated by partnering restaurants and farms, too. The aim, she tells me, is to show people how they can reduce the amount of food waste they produce, as well as encouraging them to treat eating as a more social experience, a concept that Gyngell believes has been lost in recent years. Here, the chef discusses the new menu, her favourite cooks and why she thinks the term celebrity is “revolting”.
s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s
I grew up in a macrobiotic family that was very health conscious, so food and nutrition were very important. I always loved helping my mum cook and I always felt comfortable in the kitchen growing up. I got a part-time job washing up in a restaurant kitchen to earn money while I was at university. There was an amazing woman who was the head chef and she would teach me to make mayonnaise or fish stock. I couldn’t get enough of it. I left university early and went to Paris to train as a chef. Petersham Nurseries Cafê was an accidental restaurant. I went with pots and pans to cook for a summer in a garden shed that wasn’t in the A-Z, and I stayed for nine years. It built up very slowly and organically. We used to feed 12 people with a pot of stew and when it ran out, it ran out; slowly, it changed into a restaurant. When Spring opened, the critics were in for the first lunch, so it was like hitting the ground running. We make everything here, the breads and the yoghurts and all of the things that we couldn’t do at Petersham, so I was really stepping up a few gears. But I’m used to it now. I’m very happy here; I love Spring and everyone who works here. Table is an idea that I’ve had for a really long time. It is about feeding people nutritious and delicious food at a much lower price point. For me, personally, what’s really important is to highlight the importance of community. With Table, everybody arrives and leaves at the same time, and all of the contributors and farmers come to eat here, too. It’s about getting people together. One way that we can feed people nutritious and delicious food at a good price point is by looking at things that are often discarded. A lot of people in the industry have been very aware [of the problem with food waste] for a long time and, statistically, one-third of all food that’s grown in the world will never be eaten. It will find a
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bin before it ever finds a shop shelf. It ravages the land; we can’t put the pressure on our soil to grow the amount of food that we’re growing and to raise the amount of cattle that we’re raising. It’s literally devastating the planet. Table is much more about how we can make use of not just crazy, wacky ingredients but bits of the ingredient that we might not use. For example, we’ve made a beautiful pickle out of the tops of beetroot leaves, so it’s about using the whole vegetable and some of the things that we’d often discard. It’s not so much cooking with waste as it is cooking with economy.
Above: The Salon at Spring; photography: Amber Rowlands; Left: Fresh pasta, courtesy of: Spring
I definitely don’t think I have a signature dish; I couldn’t even pull one out of my head. I have a style of cooking that is produce-driven and very simple. You can recognise my dishes because it’s about what’s in season and that’s put on the plate in the simplest way possible, and this carries through every single day of the year. To be honest with you, I need nothing in my kitchen [at home] because the least amount of cooking goes on in there. I love cooking but when you go home after 12 hours in a kitchen, you eat really simply. I often have boiled eggs on toast. On Sundays I make a big vat of vegetable soup and that runs us through the week. I can – hand on my heart – say that I never eat fast food; I like food that’s really delicious and simple. I don’t eat out that much. The one question people always ask me is, ‘How do you cook restaurant-standard food at home?’ And my answer is always the same: ‘Why would you want to?’ There’s something so lovely about eating at home. My favourite thing is to have Sunday lunch with a friend and to cook together. I don’t necessarily want to be in a restaurant when I’m already in one 80 per cent of the time. I don’t find it hard working in the industry as a woman but I think when I was younger I probably did. I’ve had an amazing life working with food and in kitchens and actually most women love restaurant work, but it’s just so hard to do it when you have children. I wanted to make a place where women could work and we have been quite successful; we have 22 chefs at Spring and 15 are women. When I first worked at a restaurant in Paris, there were 30 men in the kitchen and me, and I remember being really intimidated by that as a 19-year-old. But now, because I’m so good at asking for what I want, I don’t take any prisoners. There are millions of chefs that I like. Alice Waters from Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, has been incredibly
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important and has spoken on a lot of important food issues in terms of being organic, locally sourced, and sustainable, and I love what Dan Barber’s doing at Blue Hill Farm and the book he wrote, The Third Plate. I suppose the chefs I admire the most also address issues in the food industry. It’s the biggest business in the world and I’m the most inspired by those who care about the land and whose aim it is to feed people well. I think the term ‘celebrity anything’ is revolting. I don’t like the word and I don’t know what it means to be a celebrity chef. I’m not sure how many people would actually identify with that. Of course, there are people such as Jamie or Nigella who are huge, but I really don’t like that whole culture of celebrity. I wish we could be celebrated for what we do rather than who knows you. I love everything about London. I’ve lived here for 30 years and I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. I love this time of year; it’s the most beautiful city in the whole world, with all the magnolias, blossoms and daffodils. I love all the culture here, I love the buildings – I don't even mind the weather. Table is open 17-21 May, £20 for three courses, Somerset House, Lancaster Place, WC2R springrestaurant.co.uk
s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s
THE TERRACE IS BACK IN BELGRAVIA
Re-discover Belgravia’s favourite al fresco social hub situated just off Motcomb Street. Try our brand new food menu or enjoy a dash of ‘gin-spiration’ with a refreshing cocktail from Bombay Sapphire. Open daily from midday. To reserve your table, call 020 7858 7223 or visit lowndesdining.co.uk
Photography: Zak Hussein
Time for T
Roxie Nafousi, Sophie Bartelski Mitchell, Marissa Montgomery, Sophia Khaddam & Rosie Fortescue
What: Tod’s x The Kensington & Chelsea Magazine in-store event When: 23 March Where: Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, W1S Who: Jordan Lassman, Holly Houghton, Elizabeth Attew, Chanda Pandya, Emma Shaw and Julia Shapchanskaya Why: To celebrate the Tod’s tattoo limited-edition Double T Bags, British tattoo artist Saira Hunjan was on hand to demonstrate her work with her needles and ink at an instore event organised in partnership with The Kensington & Chelsea Magazine. Guests perused the collection of illustrated Messenger bags, leather slip-ons and the brand’s signature Gommino shoes. Gluten-free treats were handed out, including Greek yoghurt, almond pancakes, and salmon and crème fraîche, which were washed down with a green smoothie or a delicious fruit juice.
Beach Babes
Roxie Nafousi & Sophie Bartelski
Laura Wills & Stephanie Peers
Francesca Newman-Young, Lady Kitty Spencer & Rosie Fortescue
Rosie Fortescue, Lady Kitty Spencer & Sophia Khaddam
Roxie Nafousi & Kavita Cola
Photography: Bibi Basch
Olivier Lordonnois & Jo Vickers
Christiane Amanpour CBE, Clarissa & Robert Nadler
Ladislas & Sybille Safyurtlu
What: Neve & Noor Collection Launch When: 22 March Where: The Ivy Chelsea Garden, SW3 Who: Rosie Fortescue, Lady Kitty Spencer, Roxie Nafousi and Francesca Newman-Young Why: Lady Kitty Spencer and Made in Chelsea’s Rosie Fortescue were among the guests invited to preview the summer collection launch by luxury fashion label Neve & Noor. Held in the private dining room of the restaurant, the ladies enjoyed a glass of rosé wine while getting some holiday wardrobe inspiration from the new beachwear collection designed by creative director Sophie Mitchell. Guests supped on a three-course meal, which included buffalo mozzarella with roasted pine nuts, and dark chocolate mousse. Thank goodness bikini season is still a couple of months away.
Picture Perfect What: The Portrait Gala 2017 When: 28 March Where: The National Portrait Gallery, WC2H Who: HRH The Duchess of Cambridge, Rosamund Pike, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Samantha Cameron and Alexa Chung Why: A star-studded group came together at the National Portrait Gallery for its fundraising event, The Portrait Gala 2017. HRH The Duchess of Cambridge, who has been the patron of the gallery since 2012, was in high spirits as she wandered around the gallery’s new exhibitions, joined by guests including Portrait Gala committee chairwoman Alexa Chung and British milliner Philip Treacy OBE. Entertainment came in the form of a performance by Laura Mvula as well as a pop-up photography studio with Johnnie Shand Kydd.
Spring Style
Tom Walker, Kimberly Hammerstroem & Lord Edward Spencer-Churchill
Prince Kyril of Bulgaria & Sydney Finch
Kim Hersov & Tamara Ralph
What: The Mark in the Park dinner When: 20 March Where: Serpentine Sackler Gallery, W2 Who: Lord Edward Spencer-Churchill, Caroline Issa, Emilia Wickstead and Christiane Amanpour CBE Why: Elizabeth Saltzman and Jo Vickers hosted a dinner at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery’s The Magazine Restaurant in honour of New York’s The Mark Hotel. The duo were joined by Olivier Lordonnois, the hotel’s general manager, who brought a taste of the Big Apple to Kensington Gardens, where guests Emilia Wickstead and Tania Fares indulged in grilled goat’s cheese and steak, washed down with martinis.
LONDON LIVING Photography: Nick Harvey
Julia Shapchanskaya & Andy Marris
Nadja Solovieva & Emily Evans
Elaine Sullivan & Dee Stirling
Saira Hunjan
Photography: Noah Goodrich & Dave Benett Rosamund Pike
HRH The Duchess of Cambridge
Samantha Cameron, Sophie Ellis-Bextor & Alexa Chung Laura Bailey
Erdem Moralıoğlu & Dr Nicholas Cullinan
Donna Air
Philip Treacy OBE
William Asprey & Lucy Asprey
Caroline Issa
Sadie Coles & Juergen Teller
Sai Bennett
Sophie Siegle & Jamie Theakston
s l u x u ry london . c o. u k s
Erdem Moralıoğlu & Alexa Chung
Arizona Muse
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The Concierge What is it you require, sir? How may I help, madam? The Concierge is here to help with every need, whim or wish, however great or small Apparel
For the Home
Repairs & Cleaning
FurniturE, SOFT furnishings APPLICANCES & design
The Chelsea Day Spa
April Russell Design
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Jeeves of Belgravia 123 Fulham Road, SW3 6RT 020 7589 9229 jeevesofbelgravia.co.uk
89 Larkhall Rise, SW4 6HR 020 7720 0046 aprilrussell.com
Sloane Tailors & Dry Cleaners 69-71 Lower Sloane Street SW1W 8DA 020 7824 8644
Katharine Pooley 160 Walton Street, SW3 2JL 020 7584 3223 katharinepooley.co.uk
Precious Pieces
Ligne Roset
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Hawkes and Son 50-52 Walton Street, SW3 1RB 020 7589 2523 hawkesandson.com Watch Repair
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Haute Cuisine
Urban Retreat at Harrods
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Dining
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Bibendum 81 Fulham Road, SW3 6RD 020 7581 5817 bibendum.co.uk
Cartier
Sub-Zero & Wolf
Cadogan Street Dental Office
251 Brompton Road, SW3 2EP 0845 250 0010 subzero-wolf.co.uk
47 Cadogan Street, SW3 2QJ 020 7581 0811
The Watch Gallery
Pampering & Wellbeing
Vintage Watch Sellers
42 Pembridge Road W11 3HN 020 7229 5542 42thedentalpractice.com
The Portobello Clinic Hydrohealing Spa
143-144 Sloane Street SW1X 9BL 020 7312 6930 cartier.co.uk
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42 The Dental Practice
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Hairdressers
Hari’s 305 Brompton Road, SW3 2DY 020 7581 5211 harissalon.com
Medicare Français
Electric House
198/200 Earl’s Court Road, SW5 9QF 020 7370 4999 info@medicarefrancais.com medicarefrancais.com
191 Portobello Road W11 2ED 020 7908 9696 electrichouse.com
Watches of Knightsbridge 64 Knightsbridge SW1X 7JF 020 7590 3034 watchesofknightsbridge.com
Richard Ward
Smile Style Dental Care
Gaucho
82 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LY 020 7730 1222 richardward.com
146 Holland Park Avenue, W11 4UE 020 7727 5810 smilestyledental.co.uk
89 Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DX 020 7584 9901 gauchorestaurants.co.uk
WANT TO SEE YOUR BUSINESS LISTED HERE? If you are interested in promoting a service on these useful pages, please contact Sophie Roberts for more information s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk 020 7987 4320
CONCIERGE
The Ledbury Restaurant 127 Ledbury Road, W11 2AQ 020 7792 9090 theledbury.com
The Mitre 40 Holland Park Avenue, W11 3QY 020 7727 6332 themitrew11.co.uk
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay 68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 4HP 020 7352 4441 gordonramsay.com
Drinking
Childcare
The Botanist
Kensington Nannies
Abels Moving Services
7 Sloane Square, SW1W 8EE 020 7730 0077 thebotanistlondon.com
3 Hornton Place Kensington High Street W8 4LZ 020 7937 2333 kensington-nannies.co.uk
UK Residential, European and International Removals & Storage 01842 816600 info@abels.co.uk, abels.co.uk
Boujis 43 Thurloe Street SW7 2LQ 020 7584 2000 boujis.com Members’ Clubs
Scalini
Chelsea Arts Club
1-3 Walton Street, SW3 2JD 020 7225 2301 scalinilondon.co.uk
143 Old Church Street SW3 6EB 020 7376 3311 chelseaartsclub.com
Umami 100 Cromwell Road SW7 4ER 020 7341 2320 umamilondon.co.uk
The Sloane Club
PICTURE FRAMER cleaners
Frame Set & Match Hillside Clothes Care 118 Kensington Park Road W11 2PW 020 7243 6900 hillsidedryclean.co.uk
Infusion Haberdashery and Dry Cleaners 3 Chepstow Road, W2 5BL 020 7243 8735 infusion-haberdashery.co.uk
Lower Sloane Street SW1W 8BS 020 7730 9131 sloaneclub.co.uk
Purple Bone
La Bottega
Business Affairs
95 Notting Hill Gate, W11 3JZ 020 7985 0903 purplebone.com
65 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8DH 020 7730 8844 labottega.co.uk
computer & technology help
Delicatessens
Ottolenghi Delicatessen 63 Ledbury Road, W11 2AD 020 7727 1121 ottolenghi.co.uk
59 Ledbury Road, W11 2AA 020 7727 5030 meltchocolates.com
William Curley 198 Ebury Street, SW1W 8UN 020 7730 5522 williamcurley.co.uk
s l u x u ry l ondon . co. u k s
London Land Management 1 Montpelier Street, SW7 1EX 020 7591 0288 londonland.co.uk psychotherapist
Pets
Suzanne Thomas 07770 378791 suzannethomas@suzannethomas.co.uk suzannethomas.co.uk security services
Little Luxuries
Westminster Security Ltd
Flowers
34 Buckingham Palace Road SW1W 0RH 020 7123 4544 / 0755 4000 300 westminstersecurity.co.uk
Roses Only P13-14 New Covent Garden Flower Market, SW8 5NA 020 7622 1622 rosesonly.co.uk
SHORT-LET RENTAL MANAGEMENT
Selena Courier Service
Easy Rental Services
Suite 86, 235 Earls Court Road SW5 9FE 020 3643 5410 selenacourier.co.uk
aurelie@easy-rental-services.com 020 3567 0604 easy-rental-services.com
specialist services BUILDERS AND DECORATORS
Lethbridge London Ltd Melt Chocolates
pRIVATE HOME SERVICES
Richard Darsa
Couriers
Chocolatiers
111 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3LE 020 7589 7635 framesetandmatch.com
78 Cadogan Place SW1X 9RP 07768 200 551 richard@darsa.net
Partridges 2-5 Duke of York Square, SW3 4LY 020 7730 7102 partridges.co.uk
moving services
london lifestyle service
Building & Decorating Specialist 020 3609 1918 lethbridgelondon.co.uk
White Circle Collection
William Gaze Ltd
71 Walton Street SW3 2HT 020 7989 9890 whitecirclecollection.com
Basement, Loft & Extension Specialist 020 7078 8874 williamgazeltd.com
lifestyle services
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Ease your emotional baggage through writing. Sit with a writer and, using a specially developed format, write out your traumatic event or problem to release it. To book 60 or 90 minute appointments email info@lilybass.com or call 07733 112333, lilybass.com
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Raising the Bar The luxury rental apartments in prime central London
Image courtesy of
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1stasset.co.uk CHELSEA 7–9 Tryon Street SW3 3LG 020 7014 3800
HOLLAND PARK & NOTTING HILL 8 Addison Avenue W11 4QR 020 7371 1111
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harrodsestates.com
KENSINGTON 299 Westbourne Grove W11 2QA 020 7727 7777
CHELSEA 58 Fulham Road SW3 6HH 020 7225 6700
SOUTH KENSINGTON 25-27 Harrington Road SW7 3EU 020 7581 8888
KNIGHTSBRIDGE 82 Brompton Road SW3 1ER 020 7225 6506
MAYFAIR 48 Berkeley Square W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888
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hamptons.co.uk
henryandjames.co.uk
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HAMPTONS COUNTRY HOUSE
chestertons.com CHELSEA 60 Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DD 020 7594 4740 beauchamp.com KENSINGTON 116 Kensington High Street W8 7RW 020 7937 7244 NOTTING HILL 30 Ledbury Road, W11 2AB 020 3040 8585 bodensresidential.com CHELSEA 102 Draycott Avenue SW3 3AD 020 7589 2000
8 Chertsey Street Surrey, GU1 4HD 01483 339740 hlrlets.com KENSINGTON 8 Hornton Street, W8 4NW 020 7937 9371 KNIGHTSBRIDGE 168 Brompton Road SW3 1HW 020 7584 2044
CHELSEA 117 Sydney Street SW3 6NR 020 7351 7822
CHELSEA 2 Cale Street SW3 3QU 020 7399 5010 KENSINGTON 375 Kensington High Street W14 8QH 020 7087 5696 KNIGHTSBRIDGE 174 Brompton Road SW3 1HP 020 7306 1610
kfh.co.uk NOTTING HILL 301 Westbourne Grove W11 2QA 020 7717 5311 PADDINGTON 4c Praed Street, W2 1JX 020 7717 5313
hutchison-whampoa.com CHELSEA 5 Hester Road SW11 4AN 020 7350 5640
EARLS COURT 243 Old Brompton Road SW5 9HP 020 7740 2020 FULHAM 825-827 Fulham Road SW6 5HG
douglasandgordon.com CHELSEA 45 Sloane Avenue SW3 3DH 020 7225 1225
HOLLAND PARK 13 Addison Avenue W11 4QS 020 7602 2352
jll.co.uk
century21uk.com
MAYFAIR 24 Curzon Street W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722
MAYFAIR 29 Curzon Street W1J 7TL 020 7408 0007
SLOANE SQUARE 7 Lower Sloane Street SW1W 8AH 020 7717 5317
johnwilcox.co.uk KNIGHTSBRIDGE & CHELSEA 47 Beauchamp Place SW3 1NX 020 7584 7020
aylesford.com CHELSEA 440 King’s Road SW10 0LH 020 7351 2383
KENSINGTON 172 Kensington Church Street W8 4BN 020 7792 1881
020 3486 2280
PIMLICO & WESTMINSTER 50 Belgrave Road SW1V 1RQ 020 7717 5315
FULHAM AND CHELSEA 29 Effie Road
john-taylor.com
SW6 1EN 020 7731 0051
South Kensington 29 Harrington Road SW7 3HD 020 7590 0800
HOLLAND PARK 128 Holland Park Avenue W11 4UE 020 3542 2111 SOUTH KENSINGTON 29 Harrington Road
londonland.co.uk
SW7 3HD 020 3040 6370
KNIGHTSBRIDGE 1 Montpelier Street SW7 1EX 020 7591 0288 miltonstone.com
knightfrank.co.uk BELGRAVIA 82-83 Chester Square SW1W 9JH 020 7881 7722 CHELSEA 352a King’s Road SW3 5UU 020 7349 4300
malverns.co.uk KENSINGTON Malvern Court Onslow Square SW7 3HU 020 7589 8122
marshandparsons.co.uk
Hyde Park 1 Craven Terrace W2 3QD 020 7871 5060
Chelsea Rawlings House 2a Milner Street, SW3 2PU 020 7591 5570
KENSINGTON 54-56 Kensington Church Street W8 4DB 020 7938 4311 KNIGHTSBRIDGE 60 Sloane Avenue SW3 3DD 020 7591 8600
Earls Court 246 Old Brompton Road SW5 ODE 020 7835 0620
SOUTH KENSINGTON 157 Gloucester Road SW7 4TH 020 7871 4111
Holland Park 57 Norland Square W11 4QJ 020 7605 6890 Kensington 9 Kensington Church Street W8 4LF 020 7368 4450
KNIGHTSBRIDGE 66 Sloane Street SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959
KENSINGTON 145 Kensington Church Street W8 7LP 020 7535 3300
NOTTING HILL 303 Westbourne Grove W11 2QA 020 7221 1111
KNIGHTSBRIDGE 188 Brompton Road SW3 1HQ 020 7581 5234 Notting Hill 168 Westbourne Grove W11 2RW 020 7727 5750 SLOANE STREET 139 Sloane Street SW1X 9AY 020 7730 0822
sothebysrealty.co.uk pegasi.co.uk KNIGHTSBRIDGE 207 Sloane Street SW1X 9QX 020 7245 4500
BELGRAVIA 77-79 Ebury Street SW1W 0NZ 020 3714 0749
SOUTH KENSINGTON 90 Old Brompton Road SW7 3LQ 020 7581 7000
winkworth.co.uk Kensington 118 Kensington Church Street W8 4BH 020 7727 1500 Knightsbridge & Chelsea 289 Brompton Road SW3 2DY 020 7589 6616 Notting Hill 178 Westbourne Grove W11 2RH 020 7727 3227 South Kensington 123a Gloucester Road SW7 4TE 020 7373 5052
struttandparker.com russellsimpson.co.uk Chelsea 5 Anderson Street SW3 3LU 020 7225 0277
CHELSEA 43 Cadogan Street SW3 2PR 020 7225 3866 WEST CHELSEA 140 Fulham Road SW10 9PY 020 7373 1010
North Kensington 136 Lancaster Road W11 1QU 020 7313 8350 Notting Hill 2-6 Kensington Park Road W11 3BU 020 7313 2890
s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s
nicolasvanpatrick.com KNIGHTSBRIDGE 20 Montpelier Mews SW7 1HD 020 3770 3474
FULHAM 203 New King’s Road SW6 4SR 020 7751 2400
NOTTING HILL 298 Westbourne Grove W11 2PS 020 7229 0229
KENSINGTON 18 Astwood Mews SW7 4DE 020 7835 2888
CHELSEA 196-200 Fulham Road SW10 9PN 020 7578 9000
savills.co.uk
KENSINGTON 103 Kensington Church Street W8 7LN 020 7938 3666
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MOVE. Faster. Sell with Knight Frank. Our understanding of the everchanging market enables us to price your property accurately, so you can rely on Knight Frank to get you moving. Call us today for a free market appraisal of your property.
Guide Price: £1,425,000
Ashburnham Mansions, Chelsea SW10 A well-presented split-level flat in Ashburnham Mansions. The property benefits from a caretaker, parking on a first come basis to the rear and also qualifies for a residents parking permit. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen/reception room. EPC: E. Approximately 127.74 sq m (1,375 sq ft). chelsea@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3641 5903
Knightfrank.co.uk/chelsea chelsea@knightfrank.com 020 3641 5903
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
Guide price: £8,500,000
The Boltons, Chelsea SW10 This is a highly unusual house with off street parking situated on Chelsea's finest address. 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 3 reception rooms, open plan kitchen/family room, drawing room, cloakroom, utility room, wine cellar, terrace, patio. EPC: D. Approximately 310 sq m (3,341 sq ft). chelsea@knightfrank.com Office: 020 3641 5903
Ken & Chel - May 2017
30/03/2017 10:20:46
Upper Phillimore Gardens, Kensington W8 A rare opportunity to acquire a magnificent house Upper Phillimore Gardens is located in the heart of the Phillimore Estate. Arranged over five floors the house has an extensive living and entertaining space and benefits form excellent width and ceiling height with an abundance of natural light. 6 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms, 2 reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast room, dining room, family room, lower ground floor kitchen, 2 studies, dressing room, 2 guest cloakrooms, service kitchen, utility room, terrace, garden. EPC: F. Approximately 574 sq m (6,180 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £17,500,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/kensington kens@knightfrank.com 020 7938 4311
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/KEN130089
Ken & Chel Mag - Upper Phillimore Grd 20
30/03/2017 10:04:27
K
7
Kingston House South, Knightsbridge SW7 A beautifully interior designed Knightsbridge apartment Located in one of the most prestigious parts of Knightsbridge, the property has been refurbished to the highest standards and features a large south facing double reception room. Master bedroom suite, 3 further bedrooms (1 en suite), family bathroom, reception/dining room, media room, kitchen/breakfast room, utility room, basement storage cage, lift, porter, communal gardens. EPC: C. Approximately 209 sq m (2,253 sq ft). Share of freehold
Guide price: £6,950,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/knightsbridge knightsbridge@knightfrank.com 020 3641 5913
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/SLA170042
Kensington and Chelsea May Kingston House South 5
04/04/2017 10:44:32
Ladbroke Square, Notting Hill W11 Wonderful five bedroom family home An exceptional and well presented stylish family house set in an idyllic environment. Master bedroom with dressing room and en suite bathroom, 4 further bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, double reception room, kitchen/dining room, family room, study, gym, garden, balcony, roof terrace, right to apply for access to Ladbroke Square Garden. EPC: E. Approximately 358 sq m (3,856 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £9,950,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/nottinghill nottinghill@knightfrank.com 020 8166 5449
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/HPE160019
28 Ladbroke Square K&C April 2017
30/03/2017 10:51:06
K
6
Queen's Gate, South Kensington SW7 Three bedroom maisonette with outside space in prime South Kensington. A fantastic three bedroom duplex located on the top two floors of a white stucco fronted building close to the amenities of both South Kensington, Gloucester Road and Knightsbridge. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room, kitchen, roof terrace. EPC:C. Approximately 152.4 sq m (1,640 sq ft). Share of freehold
Guide price: £2,950,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/southkensington southkensington@knightfrank.com 020 3641 6122
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/STK110108
K&C April 2017
07/04/2017 09:22:35
THE WATER GARDENS
L ONDON SW10
2 to 5 bedroom apartments
FROM
£1.4M
VISIT THE SPECTACULAR NEW SHOW APARTMENT OVERLOOKING THE RIVER
Chelsea’s most prestigious riverside address 600 metres of waterfront 5 star 24hr concierge service State-of-the-art residents’ health club Signature riverside restaurant and café Marketing Suite – 90 Lots Road, London SW10 0QD
Call now for more information
+44 (0)20 7352 8852 Email sales@chelseawaterfront.com JOINT SELLING AGENTS
Computer generated images. Price correct at time of going to press.
A DEVELOPMENT BY
www.chelseawaterfront.com
WILTON MEWS BELGRAVIA SW1 A STUNNING FAMILY RESIDENCE LOCATED IN THE HEART OF BELGRAVIA Wilton Mews is a luxury new build house which has been interior designed to an exacting standard. The property has large reception rooms ideal for entertaining, spacious bedroom accommodation and ensuite facilities. This unique home also has an indoor swimming pool, gymnasium, passenger lift and garage. Accommodation: Entrance hall, dining room, kitchen, 2 large drawing rooms, master bedroom with ensuite bathroom & dressing room, 4 further bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, study, cinema room, staff bedroom with ensuite shower room. Amenities: Lift, roof terrace, swimming pool, gym, wine cellar, plant room, garage, parking.
£30,000,000
Gary Hersham
Freehold
gary@beauchamp.com
Joint Sole Agents
+44 (0) 20 7499 7722
www.beauchamp.com
·
24 Curzon Street, London W1J 7TF
·
+44 (0)20 7499 7722
CHELSEA BRIDGE WHARF CHELSEA SW8 A STYLISH AND CONTEMPORARY 2 BEDROOM APARTMENT This bright and spacious 2 bedroom apartment has been stylishly designed and benefits from open plan living. Chelsea Bridge Wharf is a popular riverside development offering a concierge service and is located moments from Battersea Park and the River Thames. The amenities of Sloane Square and Chelsea are also close by to the North. Accommodation: 2 Bedrooms, bathroom, reception room, dining area, kitchen. Amenities: Balcony, secure underground parking. Avalible furnished and accessorised.
£800 / Week
Karolina@beauchamp.com
No tenant fees
+44 (0)20 7499 7722
www.beauchamp.com
·
24 Curzon Street, London W1J 7TF
·
+44 (0)20 7499 7722
Haven is a Place on Earth Beauchamp Estates founder Gary Hersham talks camilla apcar through Brexit, the prime central market and the three topics you should never bring up at a dinner party Photography: Sarel Jansen at Academy Gardens, beauchamp.com
property
almost forty years in the property business, Gary Hersham founded boutique luxury agency Beauchamp Estates in 1979. His biggest sale to date was for £198.5m in 1987 – “probably a £600m deal today,” he says – and retirement is quite out of the question at present. He might have a large English stamp collection of blocks of four with traffic lights from 1953 onwards that he started when he was nine years old, but he works Sundays – and whatever the headlines say about today’s property market, his own mobile phone is almost constantly ringing. Hersham freely admits that the number of sales has dropped off over the past 12 months. After the Brexit vote, Beauchamp was involved in just three transactions over £40m last year: £42.5, £45 and £48m. “But that’s quite a lot less than we normally do,” he says. “We did one transaction in Mayfair pre-Brexit for £86m, and we did one transaction outside the UK for a UK client at over £100m.” Yet the Beauchamp Estates founder believes Brexit will be very positive for the UK. “There has been a period of unknown, but clarity is always a very good thing.” He highlights four significant factors for the property market, that are even more important than the banks and their lending. Envelope dwelling tax, inheritance tax, capital gains tax, and stamp duty land tax. “You’ll see a swing to purchasers of enveloped dwellings, because people save their stamp duty. Whereas you might think the very rich don’t care about an extra 15 per cent on a £50m purchase, you’re wrong. They do not like the idea of having to pay it.” With the fluctuation of the pound, Hersham says he is receiving calls from international clients asking if they should buy now. It seems there’s no time like the present. “I don’t believe there has ever been a time in the prime central London property market since Brexit that prices have really dropped,” he says. “There have been of course cases where sales in perception terms have sold at ten, 15 or 30 per cent below asking price. But when you look in greater detail, you realise that the asking price was never realistic.” Hersham suggests comparing why the market might have stagnated in relation to the Lehman crash. “I think buyers have realised that it was a misconceived
idea – you can’t get 30 per cent discounts off asking prices, and most sellers are not distressed.” If buyers do not achieve a high price, they will instead either rent the property, decide not to sell or simply keep it vacant. The other realisation for buyers, he believes, is that currency is the main gain. “All of a sudden, a buyer can be 20 per cent richer per pound he buys. A discount can be between five and seven per cent depending on the property, plus the currency gain on top... overall it could be a 25 or even 30 per cent gain.” In this climate of realism and real values, Hersham believes the market is going to improve. Beauchamp Estates has a partnership with Leslie J. Garfield in New York (with the eventual aim of having a formal shareholding in each other’s business), as well as offices in Cannes, Mykonos, Florence and Israel. These markets share a similar political climate, he says. “France has its own, although you might find that Le Pen becomes the new president; Mykonos is almost the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands, and somewhat isolated.” As for the United States, he believes Donald Trump “is a very good thing for America and the UK”. Two of the topics to avoid at a dinner party have already been covered: money and politics. But what of the third – does religion play a part in buying a property, and where people choose to do so? “You have to bear in mind that England – and therefore London – is considered the safest haven in the world. It means ‘safe haven’ not in terms of tax structures or anything other than your own personal safety, and your assets’ safety. “You don’t have any example of the government saying ‘your money, house or office building is mine’, which you do in many other places. People understand that and come here for that reason, and they are accepted as foreigners here. Whether it’s the worst or best tax haven now is almost irrelevant.” Yet above all else – London’s cultural standing will make it an enduringly desirable place to live. “Please tell me where can you get that and all the other ingredients for a good life,” poses Hersham. If you can reach him for an invitation, invite him to your next dinner party – the conversation won’t disappoint. 24 Curzon Street, W1J, 020 7499 7722, beauchamp.com
“I don’t believe there has ever been a time in the prime central London property market since Brexit that housing prices have really dropped”
s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s
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A stylishly presented mews house with a beautiful private garden.
Matching people and property in London for over 160 years.
www.marshandparsons.co.uk
Chester Row, SW1W £4,999,000 A four-bedroom period townhouse, set over 2,100 sqft with a private south-east facing garden, ideally located for the excellent amenities of Sloane Square. Freehold. EPC=D
• Approx. 2,100 sqft • Private garden • Period property • Prime location Chelsea sales : 020 8033 9045 sales.chs@marshandparsons.co.uk
St Quintin Avenue, W10 £2,600,000 A stunning three-bedroom apartment with a south-west facing balcony and garden, situated within a beautiful period conversion. Share of Freehold. EPC=E
• Approx. 2,000 sqft • Exceptional entertaining space • Immaculate condition • Private south-west facing garden North Kensington sales : 020 8033 9028 sales.nkn@marshandparsons.co.uk
Title sponsors of
Falkland House
ÂŁ1,950,000
Kensington W8
freehold
A newly renovated 3 bedroom apartment located on the 6th floor (with lift) of this portered mansion block in the heart of Kensington. Comprising a bright double aspect reception/dining room, a modern fully-fitted kitchen, an en-suite bathroom & a shower room. Falkland House is located on Marloes Road which is within close proximity to the extensive shopping facilities of Kensington High Street. EPC rating E
Kensington
020 7937 7244
sales.kensington@chestertons.com
chestertons.com
Hornton Street
Kensington W8
A 4 bedroom upper maisonette set within this beautiful period building on a popular street in the heart of Kensington. This well-proportioned family sized home benefits from a fabulous open plan reception/dining room, a modern fully-fitted kitchen, a study area, 2 bathrooms, a shower room & access to the communal gardens. Hornton Street is centrally located for all the amenities both Kensington High Street & Kensington Church Street have to offer. EPC rating D
Kensington
020 7937 7244
sales.kensington@chestertons.com
ÂŁ3,150,000 freehold
Title sponsors of
Cadogan Gardens
ÂŁ3,250,000
Chelsea SW3
leasehold
A beautifully presented 4 bedroom apartment set within this attractive period red brick building & benefitting from access to the wonderful communal gardens of Cadogan Square (with tennis court) by separate arrangement. Cadogan Gardens is a desirable address within close proximity to Sloane Street, Sloane Square & the King’s Road. EPC rating D
Chelsea
020 7594 4740
sales.chelsea@chestertons.com
chestertons.com
ENNISMORE MEWS, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW7 A unique four storey house located in this peaceful and highly sought after Knightsbridge mews. Redeveloped and architecturally designed to a high standard the house features three double bedrooms and measures approximately 2,127 sq/ft. Reception room. Spacious kitchen / dining room. Master bedroom with en-suite bath/shower room. Two further double bedrooms. Shower room. Cloakroom. Garage. Balcony.
PRICE: ÂŁ3,975,000 - Freehold
020 7591 0288 | info@londonland.co.uk | www.londonland.co.uk
property
Raising the Bar For 30 years, Pegasi has supplied discerning renters with luxury apartments in prime central London. Olivia Sharpe speaks to its new property director, Jo Upton, about the capital’s thriving rental market Photography: Sarel Jansen
Those of you knowledgeable about Greek mythology will know that Pegasus was the mythical winged horse that enabled Bellerophon to achieve many great things as his rider. A fitting choice of name, then, for Pegasi – which, since its inception 30 years ago, has raised the bar for luxury rental property in prime central London. Its portfolio includes six high-end developments, ranging from one- to five-bedroom apartments available for lease, spread across Kensington, Belgravia, Knightsbridge and Mayfair. I am currently sitting in one of the apartments in Pegasi’s St George’s Court development with Jo Upton, who was appointed the company’s new property director towards the end of last year. The spacious three-bedroom flat is both elegant and contemporary, with wooden floors, marble fixtures and original period features. “It’s understated English elegance,” explains Upton. “The buildings are established, they’re in amazing locations, but they’re not super modern. So we have styled them in keeping with how they were originally built, in the main, from the 1930s, and for the kind of stylish, understated living people want today.” For modern renters in London, location is paramount. Situated in the heart of the desirable Royal Borough, St George’s Court not only benefits from having the best amenities on its doorstep, from shops and restaurants to cultural attractions, but also enviable transport links, being in walking distance from the Gloucester Road, South Kensington and High Street Kensington tube stations. “You cannot deny it’s an utterly beautiful place to live,” says Upton. “Wonderful shopping, superb restaurants; the transport links are excellent; you’ve got the museums, schools and colleges. It’s a really lovely vibe out there.”
As well as luxury interiors and unrivalled locations, what sets Pegasi’s properties apart is the concierge service Furthermore, residents at St George’s Court have access to the property’s communal gardens which, given that outdoor space comes at a premium in the capital, makes it highly sought after. As well as luxury interiors and unrivalled locations, what sets Pegasi’s properties apart is the concierge service. Unlike some large rental properties which are owned by multiple and often faceless landlords, Pegasi has full control of its developments, as they are fully owned and let by the company. The on-site staff is on hand 24/7 to cater to residents – the majority of whom have been with Pegasi for 10 years or more – and their needs, from collecting rubbish and changing light bulbs to arranging restaurant reservations. This personal element gives residents “a feeling of reassurance and security” which, as Upton notes, is crucial for those who are frequent travellers. From students and families to international clients and UK nationals, Pegasi has a diverse clientele. As such, the property director argues that the dramatic change in London’s demographic in the past 10 years has meant that the team can no longer generalise by saying, “We are only letting to one ‘type of renter’.” Pegasi therefore prides itself on being very flexible in terms of what it can offer and as well as providing leases of up to three years for longer-term clients, it
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recently introduced shorter-term lets of just three months. With the UK’s buying sector having stalled last year due to changes in stamp duty, the uncertainty postEU referendum, and currency fluctuations, the rental market is managing to buck the trend, with 80,000 units reportedly in the pipeline for build-to-rent. All good news, then, for Pegasi, which could not have chosen a better time to rebrand and reposition itself in the changing market. While Upton is keeping a tight lid on what the team has got planned, she does hint that Pegasi hopes to take advantage of the growing rental sector, which is a “really positive thing for the UK housing crisis”. “Currently, 40% of residents come to us direct, which is great, but we would like this number to grow in the next few years and our 24/7 capability to meet, greet and listen to our residents ensures we can offer a uniquely attentive service.” St George’s Court Apartments, one-bed from £700 p/w, three-bed from £1,500 p/w, four-bed from £2,000 p/w, 42-47 Gloucester Road, SW7 4QZ. For enquiries, please contact Pegasi on 020 7245 4500 or email enquiries@pegasi.co.uk
s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s
St George’s Court, South Kensington Situated in the residential area of stylish South Kensington, St George’s Court is ideally located for Kensington High Street and boasts its own private garden for exclusive use by residents. In addition, the Royal Albert Hall and the museums of South Kensington are nearby.
Pegasi Managment Company Limited 207 Sloane Street London SW1X 9QX E: enquiries@pegasi.co.uk | T: +44 (0)207 245 4500 pegasi.co.uk
.
www.century21uk.com/nottinghill
nottinghill@century21uk.com
QUEEN’S GATE GARDENS SOUTH KENSINGTON SW7
£6,750,000 share of freehold
4 bedrooms | 3 receptions | 3 bathrooms | first floor | high ceilings | balcony | communal gardens | lift | caretaker A magnificent first floor, three reception, four bedroom, three bathroom flat, spanning some 2,815 sq ft, with impressive high ceilings, balcony, excellent storage, lift, caretaker and access to communal gardens, by application, in an imposing Grade II listed Victorian building on Queen’s Gate Gardens, one of the most prestigious garden squares in London. It is close to Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, Gloucester Road, South Kensington and Knightsbridge.
10 Clarendon Road London W11 3AA
020 7229 1414
LD
SO
Queens Gate, Kensington SW7
ÂŁ2,950,000
A stunning duplex penthouse apartment presented in immaculate order, located on a tree-lined road in Kensington opposite the Natural History Museum’s gardens. The property benefits from thoughtfully designed, contemporary interiors, which perfectly enhance the grand proportions of this classical building. EPC rating D. Approximately 1,821 sq ft (169 sq m). Master bedroom with en suite bathroom | Three further bedrooms | Two shower rooms (en suite) | Reception room | Kitchen | Terrace
Share of Freehold
77-79 Ebury Street, London SW1W 0NZ sothebysrealty.co.uk +44 20 7495 9580 | london@sothebysrealty.co.uk
sothebysrealty.co.uk
Cornwall Gardens, Kensington SW7
£2,000 per week
A stunning two bedroom, two bathroom penthouse apartment, fully refurbished to a very high specification boasting top of the range appliances and Apple AirPlay, and trench heating throughout. Additional to the internal space is an amazing private roof terrace with views over Cornwall Gardens. EPC rating D. Approximately 980 sq ft (91 sq m). Master bedroom with en suite shower room | Further bedroom | Further bathroom | Reception room | Kitchen | Roof terrace
Available furnished for a long let*
*fees may apply
© 2016 UK Sotheby’s International Realty. All rights reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty is a registered trademark licensed to UK Sotheby’s International Realty in the UK. Each offïce is independently owned and operated. All information non - contractual, approximate and subject to error, change and withdrawal without notice. Rent excludes administration fees. Please contact our offïces who can provide this information.
EMBANKMENT GARDENS, CHELSEA SW3 ● ● ● ●
3 Bedrooms 3 Bathrooms 4 Reception rooms Dressing room
● ● ● ●
Study Garden Approx. 2,866 sq ft (266.25 sq m) EPC: D
Guide price £4,250,000 Leasehold with approx. 119 years remaining For more information, call Tim des Forges 020 7399 5010 or email tim.desforges@eu.jll.com
2 Cale Street Chelsea London SW3 3QU
jll.co.uk/residential
KING'S ROAD, CHELSEA SW3 ● ● ● ●
2 Double bedrooms 1 Bathroom (en suite) 1 Shower room (en suite) 2 Guest cloakrooms
● ● ● ●
Reception room Fully fitted kitchen Roof terrace EPC: current (C) potential (C)
£1,495 per week Unfurnished For more information, call David Mills 020 7399 5010 or email david.mills@eu.jll.com
Potential tenants are advised that administration fees may be payable when renting a property. Please ask for details of our charges.
2 Cale Street Chelsea London SW3 3QU
jll.co.uk/residential
A two-bedroom penthouse in a landmark development in Kensington Bridgeman House, Kensington W14 • Master suite with dressing room • Large roof terrace • Gym, spa and pool Guide price £3,250,000
• 24-hour concierge • EPC rating C • 1,016sq ft / 94.4sq m
KENSINGTON OFFICE: T: 020 3650 4600
nicholas.shaw@harrodsestates.com
Leasehold: 992 years remaining
HARRODSESTATES.COM
A well-appointed four double bedroom terraced house Clareville Street, Chelsea SW7 • Lateral living over five floors • Over 3641sq ft • Integrated garage Guide price £5,750,000
• Staff accommodation • Two terraces • EPC rating D
CHELSEA OFFICE: T: 020 7225 6700
mark.greenway@harrodsestates.com
HARRODSESTATES.COM
Freehold
Elvaston Place, South Kensington, SW7 1,965 SQ.FT/182 SQ.M
A substantial, contemporary apartment with impressive entertaining space. Occupying the raised ground and lower ground floors of a beautifully maintained period building. 40ft Double Reception Room : 27 Ft Kitchen/Breakfast Room : Guest W.C : Utility Room : 2-3 Bedrooms with En-Suite Bathrooms : Media Room : Patio & Terrace.
Price £3,395,000
L/H + SHARE OF FREEHOLD
020 7590 9339
Rutland Gardens, Knightsbridge, SW7 5,080 SQ.FT/472 SQ.M
An exceptional, interior designed house with six bedrooms, each bedroom has an en-suite bathroom/shower room. Superbly located opposite Hyde Park in a private gated road with 24 hour security. Accommodation:
Onslow Gardens, South Kensington, SW7
Reception Room : Dining Room : Kitchen/Breakfast Room : Study : Media Room : Cloakroom/W.C : Laundry Room : Master Bedroom with En-Suite 738 SQ.FT/68.6 SQ.M Bathroom, Dressing Room & Private Roof Terrace : Five Further Bedrooms with En-Suite Facility : Roof Terrace : Passenger lift: Parking For Two Cars. A wonderfully light and spacious two bedroom flat, situated on the fourth floor of a beautifully maintained period conversion. The reception room and kitchen have views over the communal gardens and the private roof terrace has an impressive view of London’s skyline and landmark structures.
Price: £13,800,000
FREEHOLD
Entrance Hall : Reception Room : Kitchen : Two Bedrooms : Bathroom : Private Roof Terrace: Communal Gardens. 020 7590 9339 Price £1,275,000 L/H + SHARE OF FREEHOLD 38 GLOucESTER ROaD, Sw7 38 Gloucester Road, SW7
www.DOMinicLOnDOn.cOM www.dominiclondon.com
SaLES@DOMinicLOnDOn.cOM sales@dominiclondon.com
THE ART OF MOVING UK RESIDENTIAL, EUROPEAN & INTERNATIONAL REMOVALS
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Memb No: A001
Abels Rocking Horse ad 297x210mm.indd 1
FS 23942
198656
30/03/2017 17:53
LEW1118 MAL K&C MAY17_OL.indd 1
29/03/2017 13:31
=AG GINNY TIARKS HICKS SOPHIE
SYDNEY STREET,LONDON, LONDON SW3 020 7351 7822 FAX:M: 020 7351 2274 117117 SYDNEY STREET, SW3 6NR 6NR TEL: TEL: 020 7351 7822 07530 689536 e-mail: ginny@hlrlets.com website: e-mail: sophie@hlrlets.com website:www.hlrlets.com www.hlrlets.com
Wetherby Gardens, SW5
Albert Court, SW7
A bright and spacious lateral two bedroom apartment with access to the communal gardens. The property comprises two double bedrooms with built in storage, two bathrooms (one ensuite), large reception room, separate dining area and a fully fitted kitchen. The property further benefits from a private balcony, high ceilings and access to the communal gardens. Located walking distance from Gloucester Road and South Kensington underground stations.
This elegant first floor apartment features two exceptional intercommunicating reception rooms with french windows leading onto a south facing balcony. The flat has been refurbished to an extremely high standard with three high quality bathrooms and a fully fitted kitchen. Albert Court is a well-run portered building close to the Albert Hall with a high level of security. Highly recommended.
- TWO BEDROOMS - TWO BATHROOMS - LIVING ROOM - DINING AREA - FULLY FITTED KITCHEN - BALCONY - ACCESS TO COMMUNAL GARDENS - UNFURNISHED
- THREE DOUBLE BEDROOMS - THREE BATHROOMS - TWO INTERCOMMUNICATING - RECEPTION ROOMS - FULLY FITTED KITCHEN - PRIVATE BALCONY - 24 HOUR PORTERAGE - UNFURNISHED
£1,295 per week
Unfurnished
£2,750 per week
UNFURNISHED
Gr aham Terr ace, SW1W
Holland Park, W11
Architecturally designed contemporary house with wood and limestone floors throughout, oozing masses of light via french windows and skylights. This unusual and beautifully designed house has been finished to the highest of standards with state of the art technology and great attention to detail.
A beautiful bright and spacious two bedroom, lateral, apartment in a stunning double fronted Victorian Villa. The property comprises two large double bedrooms, both with ensuites, and single bedroom or study, reception room, separate dining room and fully fitted kitchen. It has a private terrace, guest WC and benefits from wooden floors throughout. Located within walking distance to Holland Park and Notting Hill.
- THREE DOUBLE BEDROOMS - THREE EN-SUITE BATHROOMS - ENTRANCE HALL - DOUBLE RECEPTION - KITCHEN WHICH OPENS ONTO FAMILY ROOM/DINING ROOM - GUEST CLOAKROOM - PAVED GARDEN - EPC RATING C
- TWO BEDROOMS - ENSUITE BATHRROM - ENSUITE SHOWER ROOM - DRESSING ROOM - LIVING ROOM - DINING ROOM - STUDY - GUEST WC - PRIVATE TERRACE
£3,250 per week
Unfurnished
117 Sydney Street London SW3 6NR Lettings: 0207 351 7822 or info@hlrlets.com
£1,875 per week
Unfurnished
A MODERN INTERPRETATION OF A Kensington
C lassic
LAUNCHING SATURDAY 29TH APRIL The Cityhouse Collection is an exciting new approach to city living, available exclusively at Kensington Row. • Two-storey homes with private sunken gardens • Private front doors to landscaped courtyard and linear parks
• 24 hour Harrods concierge, luxury spa, cinema, swimming pool & gym • Car parking available*
• Beautifully specified and substantial open plan interiors
1, 2 & 3 bedroom Cityhouses available from £1,575,000 Call 020 3797 2729 for your private appointment Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm (Thursdays until 8pm). Computer generated images are indicative only. Prices correct at time of print. *via separate negotiation.
www.kensingtonrow.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
20 Montpelier Street Knightsbridge London SW7 1HD
VICTORIA ROAD, W8 SW7 CRANLEY GARDENS, LYALL MEWS, SW1X 6 Bedrooms Entrance Hall 2Bathrooms Bedrooms |2 | 4 Bedrooms ||4|5En Suite Bathrooms 2 WCsCloakroom | 4|Reception Rooms Rooms| Bathrooms Kitchen/Reception Guest | 2 Reception 3 Kitchens | sq Dining Room | 3ERoom Stores| Room | 718 ft | Lift | EPC Kitchen/Dining Room | Laundry 4,404 sqftft | Integral Loft | Front Patio 2,418 sq Garage | Off-Street EPC F | Access to Additional Parking off-street |Parking Belgrave Square Gardens | EPC C
An excellently proportioned and bright two Probate Sale by order of the executors, this double bedroomfreehold apartment, the An end-of-terrace mewswithin house wider than average freehold Victorian house heart of South Kensington. Positioned on situated in arguably oneKensington’s of Belgravia’smost most is located in one of sought the second floor (with lift) of this attractive desirable locations. This low built after streets. The property hashouse been in the period building, the flat benefits from was disassembled; comprehensively rebuilt same ownership for 65 years and now wooden floors in this stunning from semithe open and fully modernised benefitting requires complete modernisation. The house plan technology living room with fully-fitted kitchen. latest air- listed has the added advances benefit ofincluding not being The apartment further comprises a master conditioning, Lutron lighting, motorised blinds, thus allowing an incoming purchaser to bedroom with modern en suite bathroom, a built in entertainment system, underfloor create a wonderful family home to their own secondand bedroom and additional heating a fully fitted kitchen withshower Miele exact requirements. This property currently room. The property is flooded with natural and Gaggenau appliances. The property provides 4,404 square foot of gross also internal light, offering an of east-west exposure and enjoys private integral garage area as welluse as ananadditional 593 as square dualasviews over Evelyn Gardens well inalongside theconvert, mews foot of additional loft spaceoff-street whichparking one could Chelsea’s roof tops. and access to the prestigious Belgrave Square subject to the usual planning consents. gardens, subject to separate negotiations.
£8,500,000 £1,550,000,STC STC £6,750,000
Freehold Leasehold (121 years remaining)
LINCOLN HOUSE, SW3 CLAREVILLE GROVE EATON PLACE, SW1X MEWS, 2 Bedrooms Bathrooms Entrance HallSW7 || 22Bedrooms | 2(1 En Suite) Entrance Hall Kitchen Bathrooms (1 en||Suite) | Kitchen/Dining/ Two Bedrooms En Suite Bathroom | Dining/Reception Room sqft Reception Room||Guest 855 sq ft||953 Basement Shower Room Cloakroom | Lift | Resident | Terrace EPC C| Access Storage Room |Porter Shared Reception/Dining Room | Kitchen | to Belgrave Utility RoomSquare | 915Gardens sq ft | EPC E
This beautifully presented apartment is idyllically positioned on with the ground of occupying this popular An elegant flat plentiful floor charm, A charmingpurpose mews house idyllically Edwardian built block. The approximately 855 sq ft of lateral spaceproperty on the positioned in large this quiet cul-de-sac, benefits sashcobbled windows withperiod third floorfrom of this well-located handsome within the heart of South Kensington. secondary glazing, a wealth of storage building. Arranged over the full width of the options The timber property is presented in as immaculate and floors throughout well a video building, the principal reception room isas flooded conditionphone, and has been carefully designed entrance communal heating and with natural light from its south-facing aspects hot throughout outstanding with Italian solid wood floorsThe flat water, porters. over theplus street. In additionresident to the expansive and contemporary furnishings. This attractive comprises a generously proportioned sitting area, the room boasts a bespoke bedroom house additionally benefits from south with ample fitted and wardrobe space; coupled integrated kitchen space for dining; perfect with westerly aspectsbedroom and plentiful natural light. afor further double and en suite open-plan entertaining. The apartment shower Clareville Grove Mews isbe a secure gatedas a room, could configured awardswhich admission toeasily a superb shared terrace, lane, or located at the The northproperty end of Clareville study guest suite. is serviced positioned to the peaceful rear of the first floor, by Street, moments bathroom, from the bountiful aoverlooking contemporary modernamenities kitchen Belgrave Mews. Occupiers’ can with and restaurants, the inarea is famous for. stylish breakfast bar the hall and a capacious also enjoy exclusive access to Belgrave Square reception room with aspects. gardens, subject to thesouth-facing usual consents.
£1,100 £1,250 Per PerWeek Week £1,900,000 STC STC
Furnished Furnished (174 years remaining) Leasehold
T: +44 +44 (0)20 (0)20 3770 3770 3474 3474 T:
info@nicolasvanpatrick.com info@nicolasvanpatrick.com
For you, the family (and the extensive film collection). A collection of beautifully finished 4 and 5 bedroom family homes with an additional mews studio space (to create the perfect home cinema room). Prices from £2,150,000
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Property News PRIME RESI provides us with a comprehensive monthly round-up of key news about the local luxury property market
Leigh Court, image courtesy of: Knight Frank
New Heights First-floor flats in Victorian buildings are gold dust so it’s worth snapping them up before they disappear, argues Elena Dimova, managing director of CENTURY 21 Sophia Elena
First-floor flats in Victorian buildings with impressive high ceilings, floor-to-ceiling French windows, ornate cornicing and balconies on garden squares are the most desirable jewels in any property portfolio. They showcase period grandeur and timeless elegance. Ceiling heights in excess of four metres and superb room proportions – in combination with character – appeal to those who like to entertain in style. First-floor apartments attract artists and collectors who look for ceiling height and wall space to hang works of art. Many overseas buyers and investors from Europe, the Middle East and Asia want opulent English architecture when purchasing a London home. They desire a truly authentic and uniquely British home, different to a property they may already own in another part of the world. Add to that a communal garden, a lift and a porter, and a property such as this becomes a truly sought-after prize.
Super-prime properties such as first floor flats in period buildings in prime central London locations perform the best through any market conditions Buyers purchase homes of the highest calibre in the best locations to preserve and grow their wealth. They perceive London as a safe haven for their capital, compared to other countries where they may face more risk. Super-prime properties such as first-floor flats in period buildings in prime central London locations perform the best through any market conditions. They have an enduring appeal, as they reflect the historical and cultural beauty of London, which is world-renowned for its schools, universities and museums, and unrivalled parks and green spaces, such as Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. First-floor flats in period buildings on garden squares rarely come to market. So when they do, it pays to act quickly. CENTURY 21 Sophia Elena, 10 Clarendon Road, W11 3AA, 020 7229 1414, century21uk.com
Kensington development opportunity bought for £18.75m A significant residential development opportunity just off High Street Kensington has been snapped up for £18.75m. Luxury travel group The Leading Hotels of the World (LHW) sold Leigh Court on Avonmore Road to a European development and investment fund. Currently housing a mix of 23 residential units, two cottages, office space, storage and parking, the 0.28-acre freehold site has obtained planning permission for a new scheme to deliver 15 private apartments and five new townhouses across a combined 26,800 sq ft (an S73 application has also been put in to boost that to more than 28,000 sq ft). The main red-brick building has already been stripped out and undergone some light demolition work. Knight Frank and Jeremy Alexander & Company acted for LHW.
London’s biggest crane gets to work in Earl’s Court The largest crane in London has been assembled in Earl’s Court to do some heavy lifting on Capco’s mega-scheme. At more than twice the height of Nelson’s Column, the 120-metre machine is easily the tallest of its kind in the capital and was designed and built by specialist engineering firm ALE. AL.SK190, as it’s affectionately known, will be extracting 61 portal beams out from over the London Underground lines that lie beneath the former exhibition centres. These beams used to support the weight of the massive venues, and weigh up to 1,500 tonnes each (almost the equivalent of 118 double-decker buses). It’s the largest-capacity lifting crane ever to be used in London, and the idea is to minimise the impact on local residents, help reduce the carbon footprint of the project, and generally speed Earl’s Court crane, image courtesy of: Capco things up. The first lifts are happening imminently and will take place after the last District Line train has passed underneath the beams at night. The Earl’s Court Masterplan is set to create 8,000 homes, a new high street and a five-acre park.
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Planners approve £26m Chelsea scheme
Old Church Street, image courtesy of: Martin’s Properties
Chelsea-based property firm Martin’s Properties has been given the go-ahead to develop a scheme on Old Church Street. It was announced last year that the firm would be working closely with luxury developer BlackOnyx on a £100m joint venture to build out “complex sites with scale and potential to create added value”, commented David Ardley, the managing director of BlackOnyx. This £26m project, in the middle of an historic conservation area between the King’s Road and Chelsea Embankment, certainly fits that bill; the plans – drawn up by architecture practice Scott Brownrigg – are due to deliver four two-bed apartments and a retail shop behind a traditional 19thcentury terrace, along with a pair of contemporary four-bed townhouses. The designs promise “exceptional natural light in a private cobblestone courtyard”, with off-street parking for four cars. “We have taken great care to produce a design that reflects the special character of the area,” commented Tom Martin, managing director of Martin’s Properties. “It fits perfectly with our strategy to acquire complex sites with potential to create added value.” Construction is due to start in July, with completion set for 2019.
Lowndes Square mega-lateral asks £29.5m A mega-lateral apartment spanning three buildings on Belgravia’s Lowndes Square has been listed in one of the biggest open-market instructions of the year so far. Priced at £29.5m, the penthouse at No.23 sprawls across 6,215 sq ft and encompasses an entrance hall, double-aspect drawing room, two receptions, six bedrooms and two roof terraces with views across London. It also comes with two garages and three storage rooms. Rory Penn, managing director of joint selling agents VanHan, told us: “We are delighted to be representing the sellers of 23 Lowndes Square in conjunction with Savills. It is a truly sensational apartment in prime Knightsbridge with wonderful lateral space and views. Rare for the area, it is 16 windows wide, all of which front the square itself. The flexible layout of this one-of-a-kind property makes it perfect both for families wanting to live together, and those looking for more separate accommodation.” Lowndes Square, image courtesy of: VanHan
s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s
The Long Game Alice Umfreville, head of lettings at Strutt & Parker’s Chelsea office, considers the shifting trends in buy-to-let
2017 started with an incredibly busy January and has continued to get busier. As opposed to the first few months when the supply dramatically outweighed the demand, we are now seeing that gap close. The majority of clients were proactive and took advice from their agents, making sensible price adjustments which encouraged tenants to snap up lettings properties. However, I predict this short-lived tenant-led bubble is about to burst. Since these price adjustments, so much property has been let that there is now a growing stock shortage across rent levels. Landlords should now continue at sensible prices to ensure that the stock builds at a similar rate to the demand. It would benefit all parties to remain sensible on pricing as the best long-term strategy to avoid empty properties. Having said that, the upper end of the market continues to see considerable movement from circa £5,000pw upward and there have been more high-net-worth prospective tenants looking than we have seen in quite some time. Due to the increase in relocation agent enquiries with corporate tenants, we have had to open a new corporate services department. Prospective tenants at these higher levels are looking for home gyms, cinemas and staff accommodation. Many also prefer large private homes with real character, rather than high-spec developments. These developments appear to be falling out of favour mainly because the expectations of tenants are elevated and when they see the smart address and beautifully kept communal facilities, they are then disappointed by the often outdated properties within. I also suspect that as we witness the completion of the new ‘super’ developments in prime central London, they will have enormous appeal to high-net-worth individuals. While we have seen a substantial rise in so-called ‘accidental’ landlords, we are also seeing an increase in buy-to-let landlords following the initial dip that occurred after the changes in stamp duty. Although the yields being achieved are not particularly high, they are allowing rented properties to cover their costs, and therefore PCL buy-to-let property is still a worthwhile investment for anybody thinking long term. Tenants are seemingly more flexible now with where they will consider renting within PCL. In my opinion, this shift correlates with the increasing trend for longer tenancies, which we are seeing both in initial term length and in the average number of renewals on let properties. A tenant who five years ago may have only considered SW3, may now be happy to look in SW10 or W8, for example. Strutt & Parker, 43 Cadogan Street, SW3 2PR, struttandparker.com
149
Flood Street, Chelsea SW3
£920 per week* Unfurnished
A fantastically well-proportioned three bedroom house with a f lexible layout. The house is in good condition and bright throughout with a very useable sized roof terrace. Reception room | Three bedrooms | 2 Bathrooms | Roof terrace EPC rating E 1,445 sq ft (134 sq m)
Chelsea 020 3813 9547 chelsea@struttandparker.com * The following Tenant charges may apply prior to tenancy commencement: Tenancy Agreement £222 (inv VAT) Credit Reference per application £54 (inc VAT). All advertised prices are excluded and other associated services.
60 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
Airlie Gardens, Kensington, W8
£7,500 per week* Part Furnished
Quietly situated on this enclave in Kensington, this stunning house has been beautifully designed to create extensive entertaining space with the added benefit of a lift, pool and direct access to communal gardens. Drawing room | Sitting room | Dining room | Kitchen Master Bedroom with en suite bathroom and dressing room | Four further bedrooms Four further bathrooms | Swimming pool | Sauna | Steam room | Lift | Terrace |Communal gardens EPC Rating C 6,611 sq ft (614 sq m) Kensington 020 3813 9411 kensington.lettings@struttandparker.com * The following Tenant charges may apply prior to tenancy commencement: Tenancy Agreement £222 (inv VAT) Credit Reference per application £54 (inc VAT). All advertised prices are excluded and other associated services.
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Warwick Gardens, Notting Hill W14
ÂŁ1,800,000, Leasehold
A charming three bedroom maisonette with a beautiful garden.
Drawing room | Dining room | Kitchen | Master bedroom with en suite bathroom | Two further bedrooms Further bathroom | Garden EPC Rating D 1,336 sq ft (124 sq m)
Kensington 020 3813 9477 kensington@struttandparker.com
60 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
Billing Place, Chelsea SW10
ÂŁ1,950,000 Freehold
A beautifully designed two bedroom house in this private and sought after address in Chelsea with a pretty south facing garden. Kitchen/reception room | Dinning area | Entrance hall/study | Master bedroom with en suite bathroom | Second bedroom with en suite shower room | Utility room | Cloakroom | Garden EPC rating C 1163 sq ft (108.0 sq m)
Chelsea SW10 020 3813 9587 Chelseasw10@struttandparker.com
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Bury Walk, Chelsea SW3
ÂŁ2,750,000 Freehold
Bury Walk is a quiet street located between Cale Street and the Fulham Road, within walking distance of the gardens of St Luke’s church. Reception room | Kitchen | Master bedroom with en suite | Mezzanine dressing room | Second bedroom with en suite shower room | Guest shower room | Study | Patio EPC Rating D 1,348 Sq Ft (125 sq m) Chelsea 020 3813 9448 Chelsea@struttandparker.com
60 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
Hugo House, Knightsbridge SW1
ÂŁ6,150,000 Leasehold
A stunning newly refurbished three bedroom lateral apartment in the heart of Knightsbridge. Entrance Hall | Double Reception Room | Kitchen | Master Bedroom Suite | Two further double bedroom suites | Cloakroom | Lift | Porter EPC rating D 1,744 sq ft (162 sq m) Knightsbridge 020 3813 9270 knightsbridge@struttandparker.com
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