Marylebone & Fitzrovia Magazine Oct 2017 by Runwild Media Group

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CONTENTS October 2017 24 60

Regulars 10 Editor’s letter 12 Five minutes with... Local gallery owner Tristan Hoare 14 The agenda A cultural round-up of what to read, see and do this October 60 Back to black Ruffles and tulle bring a touch of femininity to the statement shade

Features 18 24

All the fun of the fairs This month’s alternative art events The bigger picture The new and accessible ways to engage with art

28 Mert & Marcus: the perfect pair The photographic duo are the focus of Taschen’s new book 30 Blast from the past A trio of female artists join forces for an exhibition at Rebecca Hossack Art Gallery 38 Set in stone Harry Winston’s new high jewellery collection pays tribute to its founding father 52 Loving Vincent The world’s first fully painted feature film brings van Gogh to life on the big screen 76 She’s a rainbow Designer Zandra Rhodes talks fine art textiles 90 The jewel in the Adriatic crown How to live the yacht-set lifestyle in Montenegro 100 Beyond the temples Swapping the well- trodden tourist trail for some hidden gems in Cambodia

35 Collection

58 Fashion

80 Health & beauty

88 Travel

48 Art

74 Interiors

84 Food & drink

107 Property

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15.09.17 10:20

MARYLEBONE

& FITZROVIA O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7 s iss u e 0 1 7

Editor Lauren Romano Assistant Editor Melissa Emerson

editor

From the

ART

Loving Vincent

CloCKWise from riGHT: saoirse ronan as marGueriTe GaCHeT; DouGlas BooTH as armanD roulin anD Helen mCCrorY as louise CHeValier; marGueriTe GaCHeT; roBerT GulaCZYK as VinCenT Van GoGH; sCene from Loving vincent inspireD BY THe painTinG café terrace at night

This month, the world’s first fully painted film hits the big screen. Marianne Dick finds out what inspired directors Dorota Kobiela and Hugh Welchman to animate the life of Vincent van Gogh

Contributing Editors Hannah Lemon Camilla Apcar Kari Colmans Collection Editors Mhairi Graham Richard Brown Acting Assistant Editor Marianne Dick Brand Consistency & Senior Designer Laddawan Juhong Production Hugo Wheatley Jamie Steele Alice Ford General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

Proudly published by

incent van Gogh wrote around 800 letters in his short 37 years, however not one of them was an official suicide note. This is curious because one Sunday evening in July 1890, the artist stumbled back to the inn where he was staying in Auverssur-Oise in France, claiming he had deliberately shot himself in the chest. He died two days later. Despite van Gogh’s admission of suicide, there has been much speculation since – the rifle and his art tools were never found, he was often teased by local youths, and the position of the bullet meant he would have pulled the trigger at an awkward angle. Yet, van Gogh had an infamously troubled life: for many, the most common facts relayed about him is that he only ever sold one painting in his lifetime and that he cut off his ear and gifted it to a prostitute. He was committed to a mental asylum after this – however even before that he had struggled to find his calling. He was sacked from his uncle’s art dealing company, he failed his pastor examinations, he was even let go from the

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“I dream of painting and then I paint my dream” Vincent van Gogh It took 125 oil painters from across the globe (and 65,000 paintings) to create Loving Vincent, the world’s first fully-painted feature film. Released this month, the animation tells the story of van Gogh, with some of the artist’s best-known works brought to life as characters, played by a cast that includes Douglas Booth and Helen McCrory. Find out how his artistic legacy endures on page 52. From the silver screen to the computer screen, we also investigate the online platforms making waves in the art world by taking collecting to the next level (p.24). If you’d rather shop for sculptures in real life than from your sofa, however, art fair season is just around the corner. Frieze might traditionally be the leader of the pack, but there is a host of other offerings worth checking out this month, including Sunday at Ambika P3 in Marylebone (p.18). The contemporary fair is dedicated to discovering and showcasing the work of the industry’s rising stars – keep your eyes peeled and, you never know, you might even spot the next van Gogh...

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Lauren Romano Editor Follow us on Twitter @MandFMagazine

On the

cover

Also published by

R u n w i ld M ed i a G r o u p

Richard Brendon, Superstripe collection in Marrs Green (voted the world’s favourite colour), available at richardbrendon.com, photography: Neil Watson. See more on page 75.

luxurylondon.co.uk A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.

Regulars

5 minutes with...

I studied History of Art at university but there was very little contemporary art involved. I then worked at

Rathbone Place, which makes classic jackets and suits.

I’m actively working with eight artists now. When I

Christie’s for a few years in London and Paris, where one week it would be samurai swords, the next, Impressionist paintings, so when I left I wasn’t sure which direction I wanted to go in.

opened the gallery, I decided it needed a focus. My last gallery space was photographer Patrick Lichfield’s old studio, so I started with photography, but recently I’ve developed an interest in ceramics, glass and a whole range of different mediums.

I put together a few exhibitions in my flat, mixing different eras. Although I didn’t know it at

I like art you can live around, which enhances a space and has an interesting story. My own

the time, it was the beginning of the gallery.

home is relatively minimal but I do have works by artists I represent.

tristan hoare Cooling Tower, Power Station, Scheibler Textile Factory, Lodz, 2012; all photography by Yves Marchand and Romain Meffre

Looking for a gallery is like looking for somewhere to live. You need something within budget, but you also want to fall in love with the space. By chance, I was put in touch with the landlords of 6 Fitzroy Square and the moment I walked in, I was blown away by the light, the proportions and the view of the square.

Cooling Tower, Power Station, Monceau-sur-Sambre, Belgium, 2011

The eponymous gallery owner on his latest exhibition and falling in love with Fitzrovia

“I like art you can live around, which enhances a space and has an interesting story”

It’s interesting to visit galleries abroad. Each place has its own unique feel and vibe. Mexico City is one of my favourite destinations, while London’s art scene is up there with the best in the world. I represent ceramicist Taizo Kuroda, so I get to visit Japan for a mixture of work and pleasure.

Since moving into the gallery I have fallen in love with Fitzrovia. It’s quite distinct from

The latest exhibition at the gallery brings together work by Yves Marchand and Romain Meffre, two French

its neighbours. When I can get a table I like to go to Honey & Co. and Charlotte Street has a fantastic choice of restaurants – my favourite being Roka. I also recently discovered P. Johnson on

photographers who met through their mutual interest in ruins. It will showcase an ongoing body of images that document the industrial landscapes of the West (pictured).

Control Room, KelenfÖld Power Station, Budapest, Hungary, 2012

Industry, until 27 October, Tristan Hoare Gallery, 6 Fitzroy Square, W1T, tristanhoaregallery.co.uk 12

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Regulars

The agenda Cultural news and events from in and around London ceramic bowls by jo heckett

POP-UP SHOP

take a bow

After its initial launch online in March, fashion label Kitri has opened a temporary bricks-andmortar store complete with powder pink walls and geometric floors. Customers can shop for in-store exclusives and also vote on samples not yet in production. Until 29 October, 35 Thayer Street, W1U, kitristudio.com

Natalie Dormer of Game of Thrones fame, and David Oakes (from ITV’s Victoria), take to the stage this month in seductive dark comedy Venus in Fur at Theatre Royal Haymarket. 6 October – 9 December, Haymarket, SW1Y, venusonstage.com

WALL COLOUR: ConfettI 274, image ©Little Greene 2017

art attack Design and craft fair Made London comes to Marylebone this month, with makers selling their wares directly to the public, or taking commissions on the day. Exhibitors include jeweller Emily Kidson, textile artist Kate Jenkins and ceramicist Jo Heckett (whose work is pictured, above). 19-22 October, One Marylebone, 1 Marylebone Road, NW1, madelondon-marylebone.co.uk

4 paint the walls pink October marks Breast Cancer Awareness Month and Little Greene has once again declared its support for national charity Breast Cancer Haven, by pledging 15p from every tin of paint and roll of wallpaper sold throughout the month. Its new capsule collection of pink shades is fitting for the occasion. 3 New Cavendish Street, W1G, littlegreene.com

image Courtesy of STX Entertainment

red carpet debut The 61st BFI London Film Festival returns this month, with several European premieres hitting the silver screen, including Breathe, the story of a man who becomes paralysed after contracting polio, starring Andrew Garfield and Claire Foy. 4-15 October, bfi.org.uk

behind the mask

Picasso’s relationship with tribal art, and its themes of death, sexuality and nudity, is one of the artist’s lesser-known sources of inspiration, and something he once denied. This book uses archival documents and photographs to argue otherwise. Through the Eyes of Picasso: Face to Face with African and Oceanic Art by Yves Le Fur, published by Flammarion, £40, waterstones.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

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this page from top: Ai Weiwei, Odyssey, 2016; Susan Hiller, Channels, 2013, Video installation with sound, Dimensions variable, Photo by Oh Dancy, ©Susan Hiller; Allora & Calzadilla, Solar Catastrophe, 2012, Broken Solar Cells on Canvas

Lisson

Gallery

turns 50

isson Gallery, founded by former Slade School of Fine Art student Nicholas Logsdail in 1967, celebrated 50 years in Marylebone this spring. With exhibition spaces on Bell Street and its namesake Lisson Street, and two more in New York’s Chelsea neighbourhood, the gallery has staged more than 500 solo exhibitions and currently represents 53 artists. As part of its anniversary celebrations, the gallery has partnered with The Vinyl Factory – an arts group that collaborates with artists and musicians, encompassing a record label and music magazine – on multimedia exhibition project Everything at Once. In an attempt to try to capture the gallery’s contribution to the art world over the past half a century, works by 24 of its artists will be displayed at The Store Studios, a Brutalist building on the Strand that is the new home of London Fashion Week. The show will include paintings, sculptures and videos, as well as works that have been specially

Regulars

clockwise from top: Ceal Floyer, Things, 2009, CDs, CDplayer, speakers, cables, wood, Dimensions variable, ©Ceal Floyer; Ceal Floyer, Taking a Line for a Walk, 2008, ©Ceal Floyer; Ryan Gander, What a force for good you run (Dramaturgical framework for structure and stability), 2017 all images Courtesy of Lisson Gallery

commissioned for the occasion by The Vinyl Factory. Look out for a trio of Marina Abramović films – Freeing the Memory, Freeing the Body, Freeing the Voice (1975); Dan Graham’s glass-and-steel pavilions, entitled Two Vs Entrance-Way (2016); and Ai Weiwei’s 50-metre long wallpaper installation, Odyssey (2016). A 1,200-page publication titled ARTIST | WORK | LISSON, overseen by Dutch designer Irma Boom, also forms part of the anniversary celebrations. Ordered from A-Z, the hefty tome covers all of the artists who have had a solo show at the gallery and documents the inspiration behind the catalogue of exhibitions held over the years, featuring everything from invitations and postcards to essays and press clippings. According to The Telegraph, the gallery “sold over $100 million of art” last year, and with two more exhibitions running this month (Allora & Calzadilla: Foreign in a Domestic Sense; and Daniel Buren: Pile Up) we don’t expect its success to dwindle any time soon.

The gallery has staged more than 500 solo exhibitions and currently represents 53 artists

5 October – 10 December, 180 The Strand, WC2R, everythingatonce.com; lissongallery.com

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All the fun of

the fairs

Thenjiwe Niki Nkosi, Sighted, 2015, 1000 x 900mm, Oil on canvas

Frieze London might be one of the contemporary art worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s headline events this month, but it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only fair worth visiting W O R D S : m e l i ss a e m e rso n

FEATURE

1:54 Contemporary African Art Fair

The fifth London edition of this international art fair, named after the 54 countries of the African continent, comes to Somerset House this month. It features 42 galleries that specialise in contemporary African art (18 of which are based in Africa) as well as solo exhibitions by eight artists. The fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Moroccan founder Touria El Glaoui was named one of the 100 most powerful women in Africa by Forbes last year. 5-8 October, Somerset House, Strand WC2R, 1-54.com Abe Odedina, Golden Girl, 2017, Acrylic on Plywood, 120 x 120cm, Courtesy of Ed Cross Fine Art

Touria El Glaoui was named one of the 100 most powerful women in Africa

image credit: Victor raison

Pascale Marthine Tayou, Epines colonials, 2017, Wooden trunks, wooden sculptures, site specific dimensions, Courtesy of the artist and GALLERIA CONTINUA

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The Affordable Art Fair

The Affordable Art Fair at Battersea Evolution offers more entry-level pricing for aspiring collectors. Train your eye to spot emerging talent at the curated Recent Graduates’ Exhibition, or take one of the tours on offer. “An editioned work (preferably a low edition) by an established name might be an affordable route into an investment piece for the future,” says fair director Luci Noel. 19-22 October, Battersea Park, SW11, affordableartfair.com

Train your eye to spot emerging talent at the curated Recent Graduates’ Exhibition

clockwise from left: Alison Tyldesley, Cornfields and Mauve Hills, courtesy of the Linda Blackstone gallery; A visitor admiring art at the fair; Rebecca FontaineWolf, VESICA, courtesy of Candida Stevens gallery; Hen Coleman, The Temple, courtesy of Candida Stevens gallery

FEATURE

Cultural Traffic

Cultural Traffic is one of the newer events on this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art calendar, but despite only being founded in 2016, it already hosts events in four international cities including Miami and London. The power of print in enacting social change is a recurrent theme at the fair, and its free-to-visit, one-day event gathers together independent and experimental publishers, artists and dealers of vintage books. Plus, it stages live readings and music-led performances. 8 October, 347 Old Street, EC1V, culturaltraffic.com

4 image courtesy of sunday art fair

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Sunday Art Fair is at the forefront of discovering new talent

Sunday Art Fair

This annual contemporary art fair is a platform for new and emerging galleries, and provides an opportunity for young artists to exhibit their work in both solo projects and curated group presentations. Sunday Art Fair prides itself on being at the forefront of discovering new talent, and 17 galleries will be exhibiting at the fair for the first time this year. Cities represented range from Warsaw and Bucharest to the more established art hubs of London and Paris. 5-8 October, Ambika P3, 35 Marylebone Road, NW1, sundayartfair.com

clockwise from below: image courtesy of Reed Photographic; Carolina Mizrahi, Avatar collection; Steve McPherson, Correlation, 100 x 100cm, Marine Plastic; LA SHUKS, Sunset Rising, 70 X 70cm, Limited edition

The Other Art Fair

Saatchi Artâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biannual fair presents 130 of the best emerging artists chosen by a committee of art industry experts to display and sell their work. Exhibitors include dance photographer Cody Choi; Claire Newman-Williams, who is best-known for her headshots of leading actors; and Alexander Korzer-Robinson, who creates collages using antiquarian books. 5-8 October, Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, E1, theotherartfair.com

130 of the best emerging artists are chosen by a committee of art industry experts

FEATURE

6 clockwise from top left: STUDIO MVW, JinShi Pink Jade Coffee Table, galerie BSL; studio nucleo, obsidian Stone Fossil, 2017, ÂŠStudio Nucleo, Courtesy of ammann//gallery; Christopher Duffy, Abyss coffee table, Wood, Resin, Glass and Acrylic

PAD London

The art and design fair returns to Berkeley Square for the eleventh time this month, when 67 galleries will display artworks and design objects from both contemporary and historical periods, spanning categories from jewellery to furniture. Awards are presented for best contemporary design, best 20th century design and best stand. Take a break at the PAD London Restaurant and Ruinart Champagne Bar while you weigh up your purchases. 2-8 October, Berkeley Square, W1, pad-fairs.com

Take a break at the PAD London Restaurant and Ruinart Champagne Bar

Joseph Walsh, Enignum Shelves, Olive Ash, Dimensions variable, image courtesy of Andrew Bradley

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The

bigger

picture

Hannah Clugston reports on the platforms offering new ways to engage with art – both online and off

T below, from left: Natasha Law, hitch, 2012; Mikéla Henry-Lowe, The darker the berry, 2017, both artfinder.com

he advent of the internet has brought us the ability to buy groceries from beside the empty fridge, communicate with relatives who are halfway across the globe and hear news within moments of it breaking. In the past few years, the art world has also started to catch on. Now, you can confer with an expert adviser on starting an art collection, purchase work directly from international artists or find exhibitions suited specifically to your tastes – all from the comfort of your living room. Traditionally, the art industry has been carefully protected by gallerists and locked behind art fair doors, but it’s becoming much

more accessible. So much so, it is “as easy as buying clothes online”, according to Michal Szczesny, COO of Artfinder. This online platform connects artists directly with the buyer, as he describes: “You love it, you buy it. If you like it, you keep it. If you don’t like it, click, return and get your money back.” Yet an easy transaction does not guarantee an easy decision making process, especially when it comes to the realm of contemporary art, where there are thousands of potential investment opportunities. This is where Artvisor steps in. Founded earlier this year, the service seeks to pair new collectors with advisers that can guide them through the process of purchasing art. After signing up, the customer receives an invitation code to sign in to the platform. They are then asked to define their artistic tastes. Based on this information, an adviser – or ‘artvisor’ – who is both an expert in the preferred artistic field and mother tongue of the

FEATURE

client, will be assigned. They build a picture of what the individual likes, by suggesting 12 works for initial feedback. Artvisor’s co-founder Piero Tomassoni explains: “The adviser will take an interest in you and in what you like, and hopefully this will create an ongoing dialogue through the platform, where there is a messaging service.” An art critic and curator himself, Tomassoni is well placed to offer advice. The original idea behind Artvisor was to enable him to share his expertise more widely, he says. “When you are regarded as an expert in a certain field, especially if it is very trendy, like contemporary art where lots of people want to get into it but don’t know how, people will end up asking you questions and wanting you to recommend work. Through Artvisor, instead of advising 20 clients, an expert can advise 500 clients.” Another benefit of these e-platforms is the fact that customers can immediately access art from all corners of the globe. Artvisor works with international artists like Ana Cardoso, Francesco Jodice and Gal Weinstein, while Artfinder can ship works from 108 different

These e-platforms mean customers can access art from all corners of the globe

clockwise from top: Francesco Jodice, Mont Blanc. Just Things, A-B, #011, 2014; Ana Cardoso, UNTILED (X LINES, ZIGZAG), 2013; Gal Weinstein, Desolate Kitchen (small cabinet), 2016; Giuseppe Stampone, 1492 /2, 2016, all courtesy of artvisor

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countries direct to your front door. There is also a helping hand from algorithms that ensure users see more of what they love and less of what they hate. Artvisor and Artfinder are not alone in this use of online technology. GowithYamo is an app that matches the user’s artistic interests with their location to suggest relevant exhibitions within their vicinity. Similarly, website MutualArt is a “personal art source” where the individual defines their artistic preferences and receives

FEATURE

email alerts about exhibitions, auctions and news connected to those artists. Artvisor also has several partner galleries in London, including 10 Hanover, Cortesi Gallery and Gazelli Art House, creating a connection between local exhibitions and an online buying community. “While you might get enquiries through another platform, it’s only once you get to meet someone that they’ll actually buy,” says Jamie Gourlay, director of 10 Hanover. “They like to feel some kind of reassurance that they trust the person they’re buying from. So it makes sense that online platforms should have more of a personal thread with their users and clients.” There are benefits besides bringing galleries into contact with potential clients they wouldn’t otherwise have reached, Gourlay continues. “Given how expensive art fairs are, if there’s a way of finding clients without having to go through all of that, that presents an amazing opportunity.” There really is nothing quite like seeing art in the flesh, as Elena Sereda, co-founder of ArtCircle, notes. ArtCircle is another innovative art platform to reach the capital, this time in the form of pop-up exhibitions with museum-quality works and expert curators. In May, its inaugural show Focusing Room popped up in Mayfair, championing seven world-renowned artists with works

“We wanted to break away from the typical white walls of an art gallery”

never exhibited in the UK before. Sereda and her team make it their priority to optimise the viewing experience by selecting interesting spaces for exhibitions. “We look for cool locations, as we wanted to do something a bit quirky and new, and break away from the typical white walls of an art gallery,” she says. This human connection with art is the endgame for all these platforms. Artfinder does not just hope you enjoy browsing world-class art online, but that you adorn your walls with beautiful creations, nor does GowithYamo want you to scroll through local exhibitions on your iPhone and never visit them. Szczesny believes that buying art online actually enhances the human connection. As he says of Artfinder: “The artists own the process, so their customers often get surprised with beautiful handwritten notes or stories of how their artwork came about. You don’t just buy an artwork – you buy a story, a dinner conversation or a guaranteed smile every time you wake up.” art-circle.com, artfinder.com, artvisor.com, gowithyamo.com

clockwise from top left: Adolf Luther, Focussierender Raum, 1968; Adolf Luther, Untitled, 1970; Peter Sedgley, Square Dance, 1979; Nanda Vigo, Diraframma, 1968, all courtesy of artcircle

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Mert & Marcus: the perfect pair

Having captured some of the world’s most glamorous stars, photographic duo Mert and Marcus are the focus of Taschen’s latest limited edition tome, writes Kari Colmans

rom a chance meeting over a lighter in 1994 on a pier in Hastings, Turkish-born Mert Alas and Welshman Marcus Piggott soon discovered in each other more than just a mutual love of fashion. While Mert had been working as a stylist, Marcus was an assistant photographer, learning the technicalities while earning some cash taking press photos for bands like Duran Duran and the Brand New Heavies. Creating a buzz on the party circuit, they would often take photos of themselves and their – often well-known – friends, more for fun than to earn a living. Marcus taught Mert everything he knew, and soon through the 1990s London club scene they became known as a twosome. After a couple of joint commissions, they decided to combine forces. Three years later they moved into a derelict loft in East London, converting it

into a studio, and had their first collaborative photographic work published in Dazed & Confused. Mert and Marcus had arrived. After shooting their first campaign for Louis Vuitton in 2003, other fashion houses soon came calling. It wasn’t long before Lancôme, Hugo Boss and Missoni enlisted them for their unique vision, with campaigns for Miu Miu, Armani,

clockwise from above: Suvi Koponen, Vogue Paris, Dungeness, 2012; Frederikke Sofie, Double Magazine, London, 2016; Kate Moss, W Magazine, Ibiza, 2004 all images: ©Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, Courtesy of TASCHEN

FEATURE

Fendi, Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy following soon after. Known for their hyper-saturated, digitally manipulated images, their use of colour augmentation gives subjects an almost fantastical luminosity. They make no secret of their use of Photoshop either. “It’s very fakey, fakey, fakey, but that’s what it’s supposed to be,” Grace Coddington, creative director-at-large of American Vogue, once said of the pair. Publishing house Taschen has released a stunning, weighty limited edition tome on the duo, exploring their unique, collaborative vision, that is “rich with pungent scenarios and the alchemy of photography”, so writes its author Charlotte Cotton. Designed in collaboration with art director Giovanni Bianco, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott showcases around 300 striking shots. “It’s like a painting,” Mert stated about their work to The New Yorker. “You can paint a scene. The next day, you think, I wish I had a dog. So you draw a dog on it. You can achieve what you want eventually, even if you didn’t do it that way. You seem freer than when ‘what you shot is what you got.’” Exploring a wide range of methods and influences, the two are most renowned for their portrayal of strong, confident female subjects. Indeed, everyone, from popstars Lady Gaga, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Björk and Rihanna, to models Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bündchen and Kate Moss, have been subject to the Mert and Marcus treatment. “It represents our way of

seeing fantasy now – or our way of seeing the dark side, our way of seeing glamour, our way of seeing youth,” Mert told CNN Style after shooting Kate Moss for the 60th edition of Playboy magazine. “I don’t know why that should be a fashion picture or an art picture or an exhibition picture. We just do pictures,” Mert continued. “Some like to put it in a magazine, some like to put it on a wall.” Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, words by Charlotte Cotton, £450 for hardcover in clamshell box, taschen.com

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Exh i bi ti on o f th e m o n t h

Blast from the past

ABOVE: I Can’t Take Him Anywhere, I Apologise, 2017, ink, gouache and acrylic on engraved paper, 38 x 48CM; RIGHT: Pigeons Might be Dirtbags, but it’s Nice to See Them Respected in Art, ink, gouache and acrylic on engraved paper, BOTH ©LIZA CAMPBELL

INTERVIEW

As Liza Campbell, Lucy Temple and Sarah Hiscox put the finishing touches to their group exhibition at Rebecca Hossack Art Gallery this month, the trio talks to Lauren Romano about reworking traditional art forms

ome artists take brushes to canvas; others mould clay at a wheel, or chisel stone into sculptures – and then there’s Liza Campbell. She “tinkers”, “intrudes” and “attacks” old silk and paper etchings, reworking them with bold psychedelic shapes, pithy one-liners and anachronistic quips. “A Gemini with instability rising” reads the caption beneath a 19th century engraving of an austere-looking Lord Raglan, Commander in Chief of the British Army in the East; while a parochial scene from the same era is re-titled: “You are not the king of gypsies Clive, you are my accountant”. This month, Campbell’s way with words has provided the name for a group exhibition at Rebecca Hossack Art Gallery. There’s a Party On A Thursday in a Forest Near You, will feature her engravings alongside

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Islamic patterns by Lucy Temple and icon paintings from Sarah Hiscox. Campbell, who was born in the Scottish Highlands and grew up in Cawdor Castle (alluded to in Shakespeare’s Macbeth), learnt about the art of soapstone engraving while living on a remote island off the coast of Kenya. She’s been putting the “rave back into engraving” since her first show in 1997. Today, she doctors old “overwrought Victorian” etchings (“the more ludicrously over the top and biblical the better”) sourced at fairs in Surrey’s Kempton Park, with maverick words and iridescent ink. “I’m constantly writing things down; words always find their way into my art,” she says. “I’m intrigued by

satire and iconoclasm and I just want to laugh; people don’t always laugh a lot when it comes to art. “The more seriously an etching is taking itself, the more I’m drawn to it. Back in my studio I’ve got lists of things I want to use as titles and then I kind of match them up and start giving the works a bit of ‘MDMA’ in the background to cheer things up,” she adds with a wry smile. Other pieces to be shown include a map made up of passive aggressive comments and a tapestry. “I’ve got some inner Victorian in me, I’m a slave to cross-stitch,” Campbell laments. “Sewing is so serious and homely that I wanted to give it a kick in the shins, so the tapestry is mainly a list of complaints.”

INTERVIEW

Although visually very different, all three artists are united in their use of traditional materials and techniques, which they update for the 21st century. Lucy Temple’s brightly coloured Islamic geometry patterns are made the traditional way – with a compass and a ruler. The level of intricate detail is almost dizzying, not least because of the scale of the works, some of which measure a metre and a half in height. Temple gives the ancient and revered art form a modern twist with a Pop Art-inspired colour scheme. But is this “sacred geometry” in danger of dying out? Temple is optimistic. “Now that I’m on Instagram, there’s a whole community of us out there who have found each other,” she says. It was her father, the renowned icon dealer Sir Richard Temple, who persuaded her to do an MA in Islamic Design at the Prince’s School of Traditional Arts. As a lifelong lover of patterns and detail, she relishes the repetitiveness of the process. “I feel calm and relaxed when I paint and then I end up with this beautiful, colourful thing,” she tells me. Lucy’s father also inspired the work of fellow exhibitor Sarah Hiscox. “Icons are really powerful and meditative,” she says. “I always loved going to Lucy’s dad’s gallery and looking at them all.” Hiscox studied with a Russian icon master who taught her all about the revered process and symbolic meaning involved in creating an icon. Her works continue in this tradition, with ink and gold leaf on handmade gesso panels. “For this exhibition I didn’t want to go back to creating saints like I have done before; I wanted to move forward. I love the thought process behind icons, so I decided to use the same technique but depict different subjects from the natural world.” The result is a striking collection of gold leaf panels featuring flora and fauna.

The trio are firm friends (Temple and Hiscox have known each other since they were teenagers, meeting Campbell four years ago at a New Year’s Eve party) and have exhibited together once before. They describe each other’s input as “invaluable”, especially as the life of an artist can be a solitary one and finding shared studio space in West London virtually impossible, despite the booming local art scene. They also provide mutual support to get through the dreaded opening night. “It’s always very nerve-wracking, but what’s nice about doing the show as a trio is that we all get nervous at different times,” Campbell says. “You might have been working on a collection for several years and then most of the selling happens on one night. Sometimes you think ‘is anyone actually going to like my work?’” Take note readers: there’s a party this month at a gallery near you, and Campbell, Temple and Hiscox want to see you there.

“People don’t always laugh a lot when it comes to art”

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: LIZA CAMPBELL, There’s a Party This Friday In a Forest Near You, 2017, ink, gouache and acrylic on engraved paper, 40.3 x 47cm; Lucy Temple, Creole, 2017, watercolour on tea stained paper, 85 x 85cm; SARAH HISCOX, Hydrangea, 2017, ink and gold leaf on gesso, 28 x 33cm

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There’s a Party On A Thursday in a Forest Near You, 11-21 October, Rebecca Hossack Art Gallery, 2a Conway Street, W1T, rebeccahossack.com

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collection

Cross my heart

Chaumetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s updated Liens collection of sentimental love knots features criss-crossing ribbons of diamonds and gold, symbolic of two intertwining hearts. Liens SĂŠduction, POA, chaumet.com

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COLLECTION

For her first foray into jewellery, Gigi Hadid has partnered with Messika on a collection of diamond bracelets, chokers and ear cuffs, reflective of the brand’s rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic. “Gigi is the embodiment of the brand,” says Valérie Messika. “She is spontaneous, sunny and bright.” From £730, messika.com

Glitter like Gigi Golden anniversary This month, Pomellato rings in its 50th anniversary with the Ritratto collection. One-of-akind designs demonstrate the Italian jeweller’s knack for working with unconventional semi-precious stones such as tiger’s eye, red jasper and vibrant verdite. POA, pomellato.com

Snake charmer Chelsea-based Pia Hallstrom is known for her playful 18-carat gold and diamond motifs, fashioned into whimsical lettering and sapphire-studded necklaces that resemble strings of bunting. Our favourite piece this season is the serpent ring, finished with piercing ruby eyes. From £585, piahallstrom.com

Shades of change Usher the new season in with Marco Bicego’s vivid jewels in warm autumnal hues. Exotic gemstones, elegantly strung on an 18-carat gold chain, evoke falling leaves on a crisp October day. Autumn Paradise by Marco Bicego, from £1,850, marcobicego.com

Jewels of Jaipur Deck your ears with Amrapali’s glittering baubles, encrusted with gemstones, diamonds and pearls. Inspired by Jaipur’s exotic flowers, the vibrant new collection beautifully exemplifies the Indian jeweller’s East-meets-West aesthetic. From £3,000, exclusive to net-a-porter.com

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giovanniraspini.com

5, South Molton Street - London LONDON MILAN ROME FLORENCE VENICE MONTE CARLO

This image: A Harry Winston craftsman working on a necklace from the Legacy Collection Opposite page: Legacy Diamond Ring, 12.34 carats, set in platinum

collection

set in stone Harry Winston’s new high jewellery collection pays tribute to its founding father’s legacy as the ‘King of Diamonds’ WORDS: OLIVIA SHARPE

“I

f you would not be forgotten as soon as you are dead, either write something worth writing or do something worth writing,” said Benjamin Franklin. The question of how we will be remembered when we’re gone has preoccupied humans for centuries. Few of us will make it into the history books, but those who do earn their place for having made a significant impact on the world. In jewellery, many have made their mark, but one jeweller’s groundbreaking contributions led to him being dubbed the ‘King of Diamonds’ in the 20th century, a moniker that has stuck with him ever since. This was the legendary American jeweller Harry Winston and in honour of its late founder’s enduring legacy, the jewellery house recently unveiled a new collection of one-of-a-kind jewels. Each of the 22 pieces within the Legacy collection features a D-colour, internally flawless centre diamond – a fitting tribute to a man who spent his lifetime unearthing some of the world’s most remarkable stones. From the 726-carat Jonker (the first rough diamond ever to be cut in America) to the 45.52-carat blue Hope Diamond, it has been estimated that Winston owned more than a third of the world’s most coveted diamonds.

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Born in 1896, Winston’s place in the jewellery business was cemented from an early age, having grown up working in his father’s jewellery shop. As young as 12, he demonstrated his unique talent for sourcing rare gemstones, discovering a two-carat emerald in a pawn shop, which he bought for 25 cents and then sold two days later for $800. From then on, it was onwards and upwards for the ambitious jeweller, who started his business in 1920 and by 1932 had fully established his company with the opening of his first eponymous store in New York. By the late 1930s, Winston’s reputation as a collector of the world’s rarest stones was undeniable and from this moment on he was forbidden from having his photograph taken by his insurers due to having become such a high security risk. Instead, his jewels passed through the hands of some of the most illustrious figures of the 20th century, including Jackie Kennedy Onassis (her engagement ring was Harry Winston) and Elizabeth Taylor, who was famously gifted the 69.42-carat Taylor-Burton diamond by her husband Richard Burton. (It is therefore little wonder that his other well-known moniker is ‘Jeweller to the Stars’.) After Harry Winston’s death in 1978, the company continued to create exceptional pieces of jewellery,

This page: making the Legacy Collection at the Harry Winston workshop on 5th Avenue

but it wasn’t until an auction at Christie’s in 2013 that it made history once again with the acquirement of an exceptional 101.73-carat D colour Flawless, pear-shaped diamond – a stone so rare that it was dubbed the Winston Legacy. Described by Christie’s as “the most perfect diamond ever offered for sale at auction”, the stone reawakened the house’s passion and creativity, underscoring its commitment to perfection and quality at the highest level. “When we acquired the Winston Legacy Diamond in 2013, we instantly knew that we wanted a way to share its beauty with our audiences around the world, and decided that there was no better way than through a collection of jewels that embody its extraordinary traits – pieces with all D-colored internally flawless diamond center stones,” comments Nayla Hayek, Harry Winston’s CEO. “I am incredibly proud of this collection and I think Mr Winston would be as well. When we set off on this journey more than three years ago, we had a vision for the collection; we wanted to create a series of one-of-a-kind jewels that really reflected the heart of the brand and spoke to Mr Winston’s true legacy.” As Harry Winston said himself, “Nature produces so few perfect stones” and to find the quantity and quality of diamonds needed to create the Legacy collection is almost inconceivable. Once sourced, each stone then had to go through a rigorous evaluation process to ensure they all met the house’s exacting standards in terms of colour, clarity and

proportions. In total, the Legacy has taken three years to complete, thus demonstrating an admirable commitment to perfection, quality and tradition in today’s fast-paced luxury goods world. Presented as a number of high jewellery suites, many of the pieces draw reference to signature Harry Winston designs as the designers delved into the house’s historic archives. The famous Harry Winston cluster motif – created by the late Ambaji Shinde (responsible for many of Harry Winston’s iconic designs) in the 1940s, who was inspired by a holly wreath – has cropped up again and again in Harry Winston collections. It is characterised by its clever arrangement of pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds and

collection

Legacy Diamond PearShaped Drop Earrings, 16.96 carats, set in platinum

reappears in Legacy in a pair of exquisite pear-shaped diamond earrings totalling more than six carats. Of course, it is the innate simplicity of each piece that makes it quintessentially Harry Winston. Its late founder strongly believed that the stones should always come first when it came to a jewellery piece’s design, as Hayek explains: “Harry Winston believed that the beauty of a diamond should speak for itself. His signature aesthetic was to place diamonds at the forefront of designs in order to create fluid, more graceful jewels that highlighted the innate brilliance of its

diamond center stones.” This has been captured in the collection’s 11 necklaces, which have been meticulously sculpted in invisible platinum in order to maximise the diamonds’ brilliance. One of the renowned designers responsible for capturing this fluidity in each piece was the late Maurice Galli, who worked with the house for many years up until his death last year. Despite there having been much talk about this collection within the luxury jewellery circuit, Harry Winston has remained fairly discreet about its latest high jewellery collection and even forbade all press photography in the run up to its unveiling. While this may be unheard of in the public world of social media, it seems entirely fitting for a house whose founder allowed his pieces to speak for themselves. The Legacy collection has been designed for a modern woman who truly appreciates quality, craftsmanship and rarity, but who is also not afraid to be noticed. As Harry Winston put it, “People will stare. So make it worth their while.” Legacy collection, POA, 171 New Bond Street, W1S, harrywinston.com

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Made in

England… (sort of)

The British watch brands offering mechanical timepieces at a snip of their Swiss-based counterparts Words: richard brown

Spoiler alert: Your Swiss-made timepiece wasn’t assembled in a snow-strewn tool shed by a whitehaired watchmaker armed with only a loupe and a lathe. As romantic as that notion remains, your wristwatch was assembled by robots on a production line under the all-seeing eye of a closedcircuit computer system. It may have been engraved and polished by hand, but your watch is the work of machines. Machines that cost millions of pounds.

he investment required to launch a new watch movement is estimated to cost a company around £13.5 million. Hence the reason only the largest brands can lay claim to producing calibres ‘in-house’, and only then with varying degrees of credibility. It is far more efficient to outsource movements to third-party suppliers. Swiss watchmakers have been doing so for decades. It’s now a business model that has taken root in Britain. Still reliant on Switzerland, China and Japan for their internal components, a raft of independent watch companies are cutting out the middle man and selling straight to consumers. Without the enormous marketing overheads of Switzerland’s watch giants, these companies are able to offer well-made mechanical timepieces at astonishingly affordable prices. Welcome to the Brit Pack.

Henry London, 2015, London Henry London is the brainchild of two British designers who discovered a vintage wristwatch engraved ‘Henry, August 1965’ in Portobello Market. Following a series of semi-precious stone watches, this autumn will see the launch of the

brand’s first, extraordinarily affordable automatics. Standout timepiece: Automatic 42mm Classic Movement: Automatic Miyota 82S0 (Japanese) Power reserve: 42 hours Price: £210 henry-london.com

COLLECTION

Christopher Ward, 2004, Maidenhead Launched as ‘the most affordable luxury watches in the world’, Christopher Ward was the forerunner in importing Swiss-made movements and housing them behind Britishdesigned dials. Where Christopher Ward led, the rest of the UK mechanical watch industry followed. Standout timepiece: C60 Trident Titanium Pro 600 #2 (43mm) Movement: Automatic

Sellita SW200-1 (Swiss) Power reserve: 38 hours Price: £850 christopherward.co.uk

Schofield, 2011, East Sussex Operating out of a bucolic village in West Sussex, Schofield is the brainchild of dynamic product designer Giles Ellis, whose watches take their name from UK lighthouses. These timepieces are feats of engineering, with every design element meticulously considered before going into production – either in England or Germany.

These pieces are feats of engineering, with every design element meticulously considered

Standout timepiece: The Daymark (44mm) Movement: Automatic ETA 2824 (Swiss)

Power reserve: 38 hours Price: £3,600 schofieldwatchcompany.com

Mr Jones Watches, 2008, London Working with artists, Mr Jones Watches makes timepieces that are both visually arresting and technically playful. The Last Laugh Tattoo watch, for instance, displays time on the teeth of a skull. Standout timepiece: Last Laugh Tattoo (37mm) Movement: Automatic Sea Gull ST1721 (Chinese)

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Price: £195 Power reserve: 42 hours mrjoneswatches.com

Pinion, 2013, Reading Founded by Piers Berry, a designer more used to pixels and coding, Pinion’s automatic watches reference instruments from the Second World War. The company’s debut DLC-coated Axis Black sold out almost immediately. The new entry-level Atom is a solid, stainless steel piece that is available from September. Standout timepiece: Atom (42mm) Movement: Automatic Miyota 9015 (Japanese) Power reserve: 42 hours Price: £790 pinionwatches.com

Elliot Brown, 2013, Poole Ian Elliot co-founded Animal back in 1988, while Alex Brown turned down a job at Cartier to establish Animal’s watch department. The duo lent their names to their own watch brand 25 years later, and are now dedicated to producing robust and affordable dive watches. All Elliot Brown timepieces are water resistant to a minimum of 200 metres. Standout timepiece: Tyneham 305-001-R06 (41mm) Movement: Automatic Miyota 9130 (Japanese) Power reserve: 40 hours Price: £795 elliotbrownwatches.com

Marloe Watch Company, 2017, Oxfordshire

Some British brands are re-popularising the most traditional of timepieces

While an increasing number of Swiss watchmakers are grappling with their answer to the smartwatch question, Marloe Watch Company is focused on re-popularising the most traditional of timepieces – the manually-wound wristwatch. Standout timepiece: Derwent, Nautical (38mm) Movement: Hand-wound Miyota 6T33 (Japanese) Power reserve: 40 hours Price: £329 marloewatchcompany.com

COLLECTION

Bremont, 2007, Henley-on-Thames With a Silverstone-based facility dedicated to the production of calibre components, Bremont, Britain’s most visible watch brand, is the closest to beating Switzerland at its own game by manufacturing its own movement. It’s also the first to establish standalone stores, in Britain, New York and Hong Kong. Standout timepiece: Supermarine S300 (40mm) Movement: Automatic BE-92AE (modified from the ETA 2892 – Swiss) Power reserve: 38 hours Price: £2,995 bremont.com

Bremont, Britain’s most visible watch brand, is the closest to beating Switzerland at its own game

Meridian, 2012, Norwich

The further up the price range you go, the more you’ll find British engineering

In just five years, Meridian has already created five of its own calibres by modifying a base movement from Switzerland. Each Meridian watch is made to order, allowing you to pick from a range of dials, cases, case-backs and straps. Standout timepiece: MP-01 (45mm) Movement: Automatic Meridian Prime – ETA 6497 base (Swiss) Power reserve: 40 hours Price: from £4,600 meridianwatches.com

Farer, 2015, Berkshire Previously a purveyor of battery-powered fashion watches, last year Farer announced its first collection of automatics. This year, the company launched a range of GMT watches, with an additional hand that is independently adjustable to any 24-hour time zone. Standout timepiece: Lander GMT Automatic (39.5mm) Movement: Automatic ETA 2893-2 (Swiss) Power reserve: 42 hours Price: £1,175 farer.com

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COLLECTION

Objects of

Desire B ar war e , b ottl e s an d d e can te r s Fr om ab ou t £ 1 7 8 , j oe c ar i ati . c om and Se l f r i dges f r om O c tob e r

treasure trove

In a limited edition of 999, this porcelain version of Jeff Koons’s original three-ton stainless steel sculpture is a friendly 30cm B a lloon R a bbit ( R e d ) £ 1 0 , 3 5 0 , b e r nar dau d. c om, h ar r ods. c om

L e ath e r e n v e l o p e s £ 3 6 5 , ar m or i a l . f r

L i b e rty e ag l e A m b e r c rys tal , £ 1 , 6 9 0 , l al i qu e . c o m

Operatic encore Last winter Fornasetti staged its own version of Mozart’s Don Giovanni in Milan and Florence, with sets using updated designs from its archives. The tribute continues this autumn with wooden display cases, chairs and screens that sing bel canto. Screen, £12,300 and cabinet, £15,000, harrods.com 46

C uf f l in ks 1 8 - c ar at ye l l ow g o l d w i th or ange e na m e l a n d di am ond c e ntr e , £ 3 , 1 0 5 , de ak i nandfr anci s . co . uk

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Photography by Levon Biss - www.microsculpture.net

Moooi presents a life extraordinary! Moooi New York · 36 East 31st Street · New York, NY 10016 Moooi Amsterdam · Westerstraat 187 · 1015 MA Amsterdam Moooi London · 23 Great Titchfield Street · London, W1W 7PA Moooi Tokyo · Three F 6-11-1 Minami Aoyama · Minato-ku, Tokyo www.moooi.com

ART

Radical strokes In the 1950s, a group of Japanese avant-garde artists went rogue. They ran through paper screens, threw ink-soaked balls and rolled in mud in a rejection of traditionalism. The Gutai movement championed freedom of expression, celebrated in an extended exhibition at The Arts Club until January. We Impose No Rules, 40 Dover Street, W1S, theartsclub.co.uk Shozo Shimamoto, Performance in China 04, 2007

ART

Prize lots Sold £81,250 E sti m at e: £ 3 0 , 0 0 0 – £ 5 0 , 0 0 0

Bushveld Scene with Trees and Anthills, Jacob Hendrik Pierneef, 1956 “This was a highly desirable work that encapsulated all that collectors want in Pierneef. It is his classic view and has a tranquil, lyrical quality. We were delighted it performed so well, but not surprised.” – Giles Peppiatt, director of South African Art at Bonhams

Sold: Jacob Hendrik Pierneef, Bushveld Scene with Trees and Anthills, signed and dated ‘J.H.Pierneef.56.’, oil on canvas, 43cm x 58.5cm, The South African sale, 13 September, Bonhams New Bond Street, bonhams.com, image courtesy of Bonhams

Upcoming Est imate £ 5 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 – £ 7 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 A Case for an Angel I, Antony Gormley, 1989 Created in 1989 from a cast of the artist’s body, this sculpture was a precursor to one of Antony Gormley’s most recognised works, the Angel of the North: a 20 by 54m steel structure that guards the former industrial town of Gateshead in northeast England. A Case for an Angel I, with a wingspan of just 8.5m, stood proudly in the front hall of the British Museum in 2008 during its Statuephilia exhibition. Post-War and Contemporary Art Evening Sale, 7 October, christies.com

Lowest estimatE: Embroidered and Applique Patchwork Coverlet, late 19th century, £50-£80 Highest estimate: Sweet Bowl by Patrick Caulfield, RA,1966, £300,000-£500,000 Image courtesy of Sotheby’s

Antony Gormley, A Case for an Angel I, 1989, plaster, fibreglass, lead, steel and air, 197 x 858 x 46cm, installation view, ACE Contemporary Exhibitions, 1999, image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd 2017

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Howard Hodgkin: Portrait of the Artist While many of us would cherish a piece of art by the late Howard Hodgkin, he rarely kept his own work, in order to make room for other treasures: “I think of collecting as a sort of virus really, and I was infected… It is an addiction.” In October, Sotheby’s will auction 400 items from his personal collection, from ornaments and tiles to textiles and rugs sourced from all corners of the world. Howard Hodgkin: Portrait of the Artist, 24 October, sothebys.com 49

ART

The world as we know it THE DIGITAL AGE that we are living in is to be questioned in an exhibition of 18 artworks at Sophia Contemporary. Eight international artists will take on modern inventions such as the camera obscura and inkjet printer, sometimes challenging them and sometimes using them alongside brush and pigment. The question remains: can technology beat the easel and canvas? Im/material – Painting in the Digital Age, 29 September – 17 November, 11 Grosvenor Street, W1K, sophiacontemporary.com

mayfair by design PAD London returns to Berkeley Square for the 11th year. Highlights include paintings by Lucio Fontana and Josef Albers, a Hervé van der Straeten armoire made from a patchwork of ancient Chinese and Japanese lacquer panels, and a pair of Egyptian bronze eyes and brows from between 1070 and 243 BC. Another edition of the fair will launch in Geneva in January. 2-8 October, Berkeley Square, W1J, pad-fairs.com

seeing is believing

ante

upping the

Visitors to Olivier Malingue will be subject to Laurent Grasso’s penetrating stare in its next exhibition. A collage of eyes painted, printed and sculpted by the French artist will stare out in every which way, alongside works by Max Ernst and René Magritte. Philosopher Michel Foucault would surely revel in this Surrealist display. The Panoptes Project, 4 October – 9 December, 143 New Bond Street, W1S, oliviermalingue.com

After a three-floor expansion that has taken more than a year, Sprüth Magers is reopening with a collection of new work by Gary Hume. From 29 September, 7 Grafton Street, W1S, spruethmagers.com

Blain Southern began representing Jake and Dinos Chapman earlier this year. The Disasters of Everyday Life will be their first exhibition. 4 October – 11 November, 4 Hanover Square, W1S, blainsouthern.com

clockwise from top left: Anna Ostoya, Afternoon Rain, 2017, Courtesy of the artist and Bortolami Gallery, NYC; gavin turk, Ceremonial Biscuit, Large, 2014, courtesy of Louisa Guinness Gallery; Christopher Thompson Royds, Natura Morta Red Clover Silver, Courtesy of Louisa Guinness gallery; Hella Jongerius, Dragonfly Coffee table Green, ©Sylvie Chan-Liat, Courtesy of Galerie kreo; jake and dinos chapman, photography: rachel king; Sprüth Magers, London Photography: Stephen Brayne; laurent grasso, Project for Retroprojection, 2017, Courtesy of the artist and Olivier Malingue Gallery, ©Laurent Grasso ADAGP, Paris, 2017

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Make America Paint Again, 2017

promotion

Professional

provocateur

Rebel, artist and daredevil: explore the controversial work of celebrated American photographer Tyler Shields at Imitate Modern’s new exhibition

hotographer Tyler Shields has been dubbed ‘Hollywood’s favourite provocateur’ for one reason: he isn’t afraid to go the extra mile to shock viewers. In October, Shields will make a long-anticipated return to London in a large-scale photography show with Imitate Modern gallery. Provocateur will feature some of his most famous images, including a series capturing the moments of destruction of various luxury objects (disclaimer: all the Louboutins and Louis Vuitton wallets were

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GLITTER FACE, 2017

actually destroyed in the process), as well as glamorous photoshoots with some of Hollywood’s best-known names. From blowing up a Rolls-Royce to chainsawing a $100,000 Birkin bag, no luxury item is safe from the artist’s vision of a perfect shot. In the new body of work, Shields continues to explore themes of consumerism, violence, and fantasy; his images often reflecting on current affairs with a hyperreal lens. In the past, Shields has worked with a number of celebrities including Lindsay Lohan, Mischa Barton, Emma Roberts, Aaron Paul and Lydia Hearst. Shields’ work was included in Sotheby’s ‘top ten photographs to collect under £10,000’ in 2016. More recent projects include a music video for Marilyn Manson’s song Say10, and the release of a second photography book Provocateur, which dominated the charts on Amazon, standing at number one in photography for months after release. Imitate Modern is hosting an exclusive book signing event in the first week of October, where you will find a new series of photographs by Shields. In partnership with COYA Mayfair the exhibition will extend to its restaurant, members’ club and Pisco bar on Piccadilly where you will you be able to enjoy a drink while admiring the art. The book signing event will be announced on Imitate Modern’s Facebook closer to the date. For more details and to stay up-to-date, follow Imitate Modern: imitatemodern.com, @imitatemodern BLOWN, 2017

ALL IMAGES ©TYLER SHIELDS, COURTESY OF IMITATE MODERN

Loving Vincent This month, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first fully painted film hits the big screen. Marianne Dick finds out what inspired directors Dorota Kobiela and Hugh Welchman to animate the life of Vincent van Gogh

ART

Clockwise from right: saoirse ronan as marguerite gachet; DOUGLAS BOOTH AS Armand ROULIN AND HELEN MCCRORY AS LOUISE CHEVALIER; MARGUERITE GACHET; ROBERT GULACZYK AS VINCENT VAN GOGH; scene from Loving Vincent inspired by the painting Café Terrace at Night

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church where he worked as an evangelical preacher’s assistant because he gave away too many of the church’s – and his own – possessions. Eventually van Gogh’s brother, Theo, with whom he shared a significant bond, persuaded him to focus on painting, and so he did this with tremendous gusto: often working all day and throughout the night, too. Many of Vincent’s letters were written to Theo, and thus we are given an insight into his personality, moods and feelings. It is the mystery surrounding his death that is the focus of a new arthouse film – and the world’s first fully painted film – Loving Vincent, which was written and directed by Dorota Kobiela, who is renowned for her animated shorts (The Flying Machine and Little Postman, both released in 2011). The artist’s prolific letter-writing and the time he spent in Auvers-surOise, where he produced notable works such as Marguerite Gachet at the Piano and Adeline Ravoux – many of which have been brought to life in the film – helped to shape the rest of the story. “I decided I wanted to combine my two passions – painting and film,” says Kobiela. “I was 30 when I came up with the idea to do Loving Vincent, about the same age that Vincent was when he started painting. “I have battled with depression all my life, and I was inspired by how strong Vincent was in picking himself up from similarly terrible life setbacks as a young man in his 20s, and finding, through art, a way to bring beauty to the world. His letters helped me at a low point in my life, and inspired me to make this film.” Kobiela’s story is told from the point of view of Armand Roulin (played by Douglas Booth), the

“His letters helped me at a low point in my life, and inspired me to make this film” clockwise from top left: scene inspired by Thatched Cottages at Cordeville; Eleanor tomlinson as adeline ravoux; Scene inspired by The Night Café; douglas booth as armand roulin and aidan turner as the boatman; Bill Thomas as Dr Mazery; scene inspired by Starry Night over the Rhône all images courtesy of Breakthru Films

ART

son of a postman Joseph Roulin (Chris O’Dowd), who was friends with the artist. Armand is entrusted to hand-deliver a letter to Theo, however he is quickly told that he died shortly after his brother. This leads Armand to trace the painter’s last few days: he visits the village where he stayed and died, and interviews various acquaintances, most of whom van Gogh painted. The film is interspersed with a series of black and white flashbacks from each character, which piece together a portrait of the artist and attempt to solve the mystery of his tragic death. “We thought that it would be too much for audiences to have Vincent’s intensive colour for 90 minutes. Secondly, we didn’t want to make up paintings of his that didn’t exist,” explains Kobiela. The structure of the film is, in many ways, led by the unusual animation technique that Kobiela pioneered. “We didn’t just film the scenes before painting,” explains co-director Hugh Welchman. “We storyboarded them, pre-visualised the whole film in 3D computer graphics programs, and spent six months with 20 painters re-imagining Vincent’s paintings in a way that made them suitable for film. “We created matte paintings, recreating the environments that Vincent lived in after taking repeated trips to Auvers and Arles, and we spent a lot of time in the Van Gogh Museum with our design painters. All that preparation work was necessary before the live action shoot on green screens, and on certain sets that we built. After that we edited the footage, and combined it with

2D or 3D elements, sometimes still animated – whatever provided the best reference material for the painters to get closest to bringing Vincent’s paintings to life.” The frames were painted by a team of 125: photographed in stages while they were painting, until eventually a moving, swirling scene could be recorded (much like stop motion). After six years of creative development, a total of 65,000 paintings were produced, with 12 high-resolution photographs making up each second of the film. In his last letter to his brother Theo, van Gogh wrote: “We cannot speak other than by our paintings.” Yet, so much of van Gogh’s sensitivity, wonder and outlook on the world was illustrated in his letters, which helped to shape an image of him after his death. The film might not ignite a revolution in painted animation with its hypnotic yet sometimes stilted action sequences (although there is talk of a horror inspired by Goya from Kobiela and Welchman), however it is an inspired love letter to van Gogh – an appreciation that he thoroughly deserved, but never received during his life. Loving Vincent is released in cinemas on 13 October

deep waters

Working with giant water tanks and a camera, a thirst to create something meaningful inspires artist Alexander James’s single edition prints. Camilla Apcar meets him at Dellasposa gallery

lexander James is an artist wholly dedicated to his work, in a particularly literal way. All his photographs concern water, often submerging his subjects in huge tanks, capturing the natural world in complex ways and stunning detail. “I’m not really a ‘throw a Tampax at a canvas for some publicity stunt’ kind of guy,” says James. His projects each have intensely personal roots. For example, having tired of hearing people

depicting reactions between water and crude oil, exploring the importance of these liquids to human survival and industrial gain. In London, James spent more than five years breeding bright blue butterflies in his studio for various series including Transparency of a Dream. “It’s a monastically engaging process. I was breeding from one generation to the next, kind of the holy grail of entomology,” he describes. “I just don’t see any purpose in anything I don’t have an emotional connection to. So these are my kids, flying around the studio. It sounds very elegant but when you wake up with enough bug s*** on your pillow you’ll soon change your mind.” Yet it was “troublesome” to begin with. If a butterfly falls from its cocoon, it is likely to be paralysed. “I found this profoundly upsetting so I was up 24 hours a day, with thousands of butterflies darting around the studio,” says James. “I worked on it for eight months and didn’t leave the studio once. This is the most hunted animal on the planet – the Morpho monthonto, a South American species, with a wingspan of ten to 15cm. The Chinese harvest them for the prisms in their wings and scrape them for this lapis lazuli – the most sophisticated form of butchery – to be used in children’s jewellery.” This particular species has a remarkable skill that allowed James to submerge them and take photographs (sometimes with bubbles sent strategically to the surface from beneath, avoiding the creature’s delicate wings) – all without injuring, or killing, them. “They’re not very energetic and need the sun to warm them up, but at night [in South America] it’s

“The surface tension of water is my playground”

speak about Russians “as if they’re all gangsters and prostitutes”, he packed up his entire studio and drove to Siberia to find out for himself. “I was the first British artist in 30 years to do that – it was wonderful but hard, bunkered in an underground studio with no heating, bathroom or running water, sleeping on bales of hay for a year working on a show.” There he made a series

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quite cold. They shut down, with a self-induced coma system. Its only trigger is temperature.” James would drop the room temperature using air conditioning and choose his unconscious specimens to photograph. The butterfly would have no brain function until the temperature rose. “The surface tension of the water is my playground,” the artist describes. The camera is held out of the water, looking directly down into five or six-ton water tanks. To James, the creation inside is the real artwork, and photography merely helps to “solidify” it. Some of the prints were produced years ago, but a series that takes a more political stance, The Death of the Dream of Democracy, was made this year. James spent just four days arranging about 2,000 rose and tulip petals into the Star-Spangled Banner. Some are coated in 24-carat gold leaf, questioning the integrity of the flag and expressing concern for the country’s condition. “I don’t socialise or go to parties, I’m an utter recluse. The work is the sanity. As long as it allows me to continue, I want for nothing else,” says James. “But I’m 32 years in and don’t feel like I work at all. Even though people tell me I’m a workaholic, I really don’t understand why.”

above: Alexander James, The Death of the Dream of Democracy, 2017. below: Transparency of a Dream no. 13, 2014-2017. artwork credits: ©Alexander James/Distil Ennui Studio, London and courtesy of Dellasposa, London; portrait credits: ©2017, Turykina.com

Dellasposa, 15 Stratton Street, W1J, dellasposa.com

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Shine a light

Cerruti 1881â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dramatic A/W17 campaign is inspired by its 50th anniversary runway show, which featured minimal white light rods framing the catwalk. These rods have been made into abstract sculptures, creating a cinematic background for new longline coats, wide-legged suiting and statement leather goods. cerruti.com

FASHION

image credit: Matthew Brookes

FASHION

RaspberrY delight

Lock & Co takes a cue from 1920s starlets this season, with a range of cloche hats and berets in autumnal shades such as berry and camel. If the thought of donning one of these is met with a ‘sacré bleu’ rather than an ‘ooh la la’, then there are plenty of other options: try a trilby or fedora, browse Prudence’s A/W17 creations or check out the new collaboration with Harris Tweed. From £49, 6 St James’s Street, SW1A, lockhatters.co.uk

Bag some art If you thought the trend for fur-lined footwear and shearling shoulder bags was over, think again. From dramatic feathered sandals to hairy moccasins, Prada’s A/W accessories beg to be touched. Our favourite piece is this tromp l’œil-style velvet bag that will make the perfect companion for browsing this month’s art fairs. £1,890, 16-18 Old Bond Street, W1S, prada.com

Buckle up

Perfect pairs A new exhibition celebrating partnerships in fashion has opened at the Fashion Space Gallery. Fashion Together, curated by Lou Stoppard, takes a closer look at exceptional design duos such as Nick Knight and Daphne Guinness, Shaun Leane and Alexander McQueen, and Viktor & Rolf. Until 13 January, fashionspacegallery.com

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Nick Knight and Daphne Guinness, Visions Couture: Junya Watanabe, SHOWstudio 2011, digital film, Courtesy of SHOWstudio

Hunter Originals is expanding its Refined collection, which began in 2015 with its slimmer-fitting boot. Look out for more colours and textures in its footwear line, plus tailored trench coats, down jackets and a rubberised backpack. From £80, 83-85 Regent Street, W1B, hunterboots.com

Back to

BLACK

Our favourite statement colour returns with fierce femininity. Step out in midnight tulle and ebony velvets Photographer Helene Sandberg S t y l i sT A n at D y c h t w a l d

dress, poa, Whole 9 Yards, whole9yards.com; earrings, £395, Dolce & Gabbana, dolcegabbana.com

“Women

who wear black lead colourful

lives” – Neiman Marcus

THIS PAGE Jumpsuit, £1,295, Temperley London, temperleylondon.com; earrings, £85, Kate Spade, katespade.co.uk OPPOSITE PAGE dress, £2,100, VIONNET, vionnet.com; SHOES, £815, christian Louboutin, christianlouboutin.com

THIS PAGE dress, POA, DSQUARED2, dsquared2.com; shoes, £775, christian Louboutin, as before; choker, POA, dior, dior.com OPPOSITE PAGE dress, £1,400, ZimmermanN, zimmermannwear.com

THIS PAGE top AND SKIRT set, £785, DAVId Koma, davidkoma.com OPPOSITE PAGE blouse, £485 AND vest, £270, Monographie, monographieparis.com; trousers, £169, Tiger of Sweden, tigerofsweden.com; brooch, POA, Emanuel Ungaro, ungaro.com; belt, £565, Agnona, agnona.com Hair Alice Oliver Make-Up Afton Radojicic AT stella creative ARTISTs PhotoGRAPHER’S AssistANT Luke Johnson Model IDA AT M&P models

BOOT

CAMP The devil is in the detail this season, with intricately embellished and textural footwear that draws attention towards the ankle WORDS: Camilla Apcar

one are the days when embellished footwear meant a little fringing, a feathery plume at the toe or a vamp in a contrasting fabric. This season, more than any before, designers have embraced finishing touches and textures that transform their shoes into works of art – boots in particular. “We have seen a real return to glamour with a revival of sparkle, sequins and embellishment, creating opulent heel details that feel fresh and luxurious,” says Cassie Smart, buying manager at matchesfashion.com. None more so than Aquazzura. The Italian label’s latest collection is crammed with glittering styles celebrating the silk routes that served the trade of pearls, silk and precious gems between Constantinople and Mongolia. “I travelled to Venice and Istanbul in search of beautiful fabrics, objects and jewels, and reinterpreted what I found in a more graphic and modern way,” says Edgardo Osorio, Aquazzura’s co-founder and creative director. Osorio has borrowed Suzani, Ikat and Ottoman weaves; created knee-highs exploding with pearlescent fireworks; and embedded sparkling stones in intricate silver and metallic embroidery that winds from foot to calf. Some styles can take 60 hours to create. “I love the idea of evening boots,” he says. “There is something so new, decadent and sensual about them. I found an antique velvet opera coat from the 1920s in Istanbul, with this incredible silver embroidery that we reworked for boots. There are also flower jacquard booties inspired by vintage upholstery fabrics I found in the flea markets in Paris. I like to use fabrics traditionally used for décor on shoes.”

FASHION

Strictly at heel 0, ,10 £1 B AB EG LC DO

Sophia Webster is one designer confining embellishment to the heel this season, with a range of sleek black boots, some of which come with a leopard print heel of rose gold gems (£550, pictured middle right). Elsewhere, a trio of styles use clusters of amber, peach, baby blue and crystal (from £495, pictured bottom right) on different heel heights. “Another of my favourites comes in black velvet from Dolce & Gabbana with a beautifully embellished heel (£1,100, pictured top and far right),” says Smart. “It works well with the label’s richly printed pieces, or with a sharp tailored tux.” It is an otherwise plain style – black velvet insole, satin lining – if not for a crested button that sits on the toe plus myriad gold studs and pearly beads on its block heel.

AN A. CO M

£5 50 ,S O PH IA W EB ST ER .C OM £4 95 ,S O PH IA W EB ST ER .C OM

“There is something so decadent and sensual about the idea of evening boots”

£6 35 ,

2/ Textural

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feeling

Cowboy chic no more: Ferragamo has stepped up the idea of fringing with the help of British talent Paul Andrew, its newly-appointed footwear design director. In 21st-century style, an ankle boot comes covered in glittering metallic Lurex yarn (£635, pictured left). Elsewhere at Christian Louboutin, a couture creation uses torn organza to create a matted cobweb effect. The technique, where strips are sewn onto a base of organza and then shredded with scissors, has taken the designer five years to perfect. “I wanted to work the organza in a way where it appeared as if the shredded pieces were sitting on the shoes, nearly about to take off with the wind,” Louboutin explains. “I imagined this in the same way the Thai people apply golden leaves on the Buddha’s statues in the temples. When the leaves move, it appears the Buddha is shivering.”

Eastern shores

oulier

alones £725, m gu 0, ,99 £1

“There is a shift from basic neutrals to colour, embellishment and shine”

ia th

s.com

Aquazzura is not the only brand to have taken inspiration, in part, from the East this season. Christian Louboutin’s May Wong boot (£1,275, pictured top right) pays homage to the first Asian-American leading lady of a US television programme, who also starred in Shanghai Express alongside Marlene Dietrich. The boot’s Mandarin collar is lined in bright pink Orylag rabbit fur, but the real drama comes courtesy of an Asian motif jacquard set against a tissue Obi fabric inspired by Japanese kimonos. “I love Gucci’s take on the embellished ankle boot with the mythological embroidery and Swarovski crystal-encrusted bows,” says Smart. “These are a real statement piece and complement eccentric styling.” Available in black satin at matchesfashion.com or red at Harrods (both £1,990, pictured far right), extra

£725, m com

s. oulier alones

embellishment comes in two dazzling forms: giant bows, which are detachable, and a gold mirrored heel with more crystals lining the bottom. Malone Souliers, meanwhile, uses a lasered and inlaid technique to create the dragon-like design on her new Eleanor boot (£725, pictured left and above left). A pattern is lasered into the bottom layer and then metallic nappa and suede pieces are used to cover the areas of the base leather removed by the beam. “I was primarily inspired by the work of the American artist Pat Steir,” says creative director Mary Alice Malone, “and her interpretation of Chinese landscape paintings.” The designer also spent a summer studying Chinese art and Taoist meditation – elsewhere in the collection are printed silks and lacquered heels. “This year there is a shift from basic neutrals to colour, embellishment and shine,” she says. “Embellished boots are no longer just for formal evening wear occasions. They may be styled with jeans and blazers for a more dressed down daytime look, as well as worn at evening events for full impact.” The Eleanor comes in either bold red, gold and navy, or a more delicate combination of navy, beige and pink.

FASHION

Perennial appeal

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ma ca de la £79 0, p au

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Floral forms, as ever, have their place this season. Aquazzura swathes ankle boots in muted carpet-like fabrics (£530, pictured right); Dolce & Gabbana goes all out with galvanised metal buttons, four different buckles, two contrasting fabrics, a velvet trim and snakeskin heel (POA, pictured above). Paula Cademartori’s latest collection includes the high-heeled calfskin and suede Warrior lace-up (£790, pictured below) and the lower Desert Flower (£875). “The embellishment is inspired by a super feminine and well-groomed aesthetic,” says the designer. “This is expressed through coloured flowers that remind me of a blooming botanical

garden.” Craftsmanship and technology marry in hand-stitched laser-cut motifs. “Obviously being already very rich it would look good with boyfriend-style jeans and a white shirt,” she continues. “I’d finish the look with lots of bracelets and rings.” Such flair is second nature to Cademartori, whose designs have always involved inlays, embroidery and appliqués. “I believe in paying careful attention to finer details,” she says. “I think these components can really make the difference. It’s accessories that reveal who we are or who we want to be.”

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OUTLINES

LIVE TYPE

PERFECTING THE JOURNEY

PERFECTING THE JOURNE 211 REGENT STREET . WESTFIELD SHEPHERDS BUSH . LONDON CITY AIRPORT CASE . HARRODS . SELFRIDGES TUMI.COM

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21/08/2017 13:35

Bloom

FASHION

Fresh from its Rivierainspired summer collaboration with Mayfair socialite Mark Francis Vandelli, Hawes & Curtis presents the first rebranding in its 104-year history. The Jermyn Street shirtmaker has updated its logo with modern typography, while its new collection fuses both age-old styles such as the herringbone coat and the tailored suit (left), with bold pieces like this statement floral shirt (right). From £29, 33-34 Jermyn Street, SW1Y, hawesandcurtis.co.uk

sight for sore eyes You’d be forgiven for initially walking past Jermyn Street’s most recent acquisition: with its curved glass façade, gilded signage and walnut interior, Cubitts the spectacle makers blends seamlessly among the traditional retailers. To celebrate the opening, the brand has launched the 16-piece St James’s collection and the made-to-measure 18-carat rolled gold collection – Algha for Cubitts. From £125, 68 Jermyn Street, SW1Y, cubitts.co.uk

Holding out for a hero Tough as old boots

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pHOTography: SaRAH bRIMLEY

Tim Cooper, cobbler-in-chief at Oliver Sweeney, adds dip-dying to the label’s repertoire this season. This niche technique means boots are dyed after they are constructed, giving them a deep individual hue and a satisfying worn-in look. From £199, 5 Conduit Street, W1S, oliversweeney.com

Roja Dove’s new fougère elixir, Elysium (meaning perfect bliss), is for the most virtuous of men, who Dove believes incite aromas of vetiver, ambergris and leather. Elysium comes in a cologneparfum: it has the lighter structure of the former, yet the longevity of the latter. £225 for 100ml, 51 Burlington Arcade, W1J, rojaparfums.com

INTERIORS Cocktail hour At Sketch, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s difficult to know where to look on a normal day. Now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s even harder with Cocktail Atmospheres, an exhibition of 13 cutting-edge international designers from online design emporium Matter of Stuff. Sip corresponding cocktails while perusing the pieces, including ethereal light mobiles, a sculptural side table, and our favourite: this equestrian-inspired club chair. Until 15 November, 9 Conduit Street, W1S, sketch.london, matterofstuff.com

club chair by Glen Baghurst and Coulee side table by Nina Cho, image credit: Mark Cocksedge

INTERIORS

Alone in

Kyoto

It’s all change at Achille Salvagni again. In the new Kyoto collection, the designer takes leave of his usual grandiose Roman roots for the more serene and minimal scenes of East Asia. Onyx, bronze and gold leaf still take centre stage: our favourite pieces are the Gae chair (pictured left) and the glowing, jewel-like Oyster mirror and sconces. Until 12 January, 12 Grafton Street, W1S, achillesalvagni.com

image credits: Paolo Petrignani

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Cosy couture Being a family unit as well as a design duo, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi have easily reworked their English garden eccentricity for the home. Preen’s romantic range of English garden-inspired eiderdowns and featherfilled silk satin cushions are made from prints from their ready-to-wear fashion collections. Staying in has never looked so stylish. From £120, preenbythorntonbregazzi.com

Skorpio s plate, f ro m £80, Themis Z for dior m AISON, dior.com; themisz.com

image credit: ash reynolds

coupe salad plate, £65, Richard brendon x patternity, richardbrendon.com

Folklore plate, £18, matisse in the studio co llecti on at the Royal academy, r oy.ac/shop

Smeg site Smeg, the Italian brand that makes kitchen appliances chic, has opened an immense new flagship in the regenerated St. James’s market. The building boasts the largest single-pane glass windows in London, which front the three-floor store. Browse for collaborations with the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, try produce from Montecoppe (the family farm over in Emilia-Romagna), marvel at the living wall or watch a live cooking demonstration. 14 Regent Street, St. James’s, SW1Y, smeguk.com

rainbow

she’s a

This month, fashion illustration and textile design specialist Gray M.C.A presents Styled by Design: a niche exhibition that gathers some of the rarest and most valuable fine art textiles of the 20th century. Marianne Dick chats to co-founder of Gray M.C.A, Ashley Gray, and designer Dame Zandra Rhodes, whose Ayers Rock print will play a pivotal role in the show’s line-up

ray M.C.A was founded by husband-and-wife team Ashley and Connie Gray, and is most commonly associated with the annual fashion illustration exhibition Drawing on Style, which is held during London and New York Fashion Weeks. As collectors, curators and dealers they uncover rare fashion illustrations and textiles, celebrating them in international art fairs and standalone exhibitions in London, New York and Palm Beach. Styled by Design, another of their annual exhibitions, will be held this month at Gallery 8 in St James’s, showcasing the lesser known textile designs by post-war and contemporary artists, including Pablo Picasso and Barbara Hepworth. Also among them is designer Dame Zandra Rhodes. Rhodes is instantly recognisable. Like icons such as David Bowie or Prince, she has an intrinsically theatrical, sparkly and rebellious aura that is commonly associated with the revolutionary era of the 1960s and 1970s. Her influence on British fashion and culture is well-known and respected: she has dressed icons from the likes of Donna Summer to Princess Diana, as well as creating sets and costumes for operas. Her roots lie in textile design, ever since her time at the Royal College of Art, and one of her most lauded creations is the Ayers Rock collection of A/W 1974. Rhodes became fascinated by this natural monument when she visited Australia and saw it on numerous postcards. She returned two years later, travelled to the site and spent several days sketching, taking photographs and immersing herself in the surroundings. When she returned home, she made her sketches into screen-printed textiles, which were then transformed into cloaks and dresses. In 2003, Rhodes founded the Fashion and Textile Museum in Bermondsey, where she also has an apartment and a screen printing workshop. The bright orange and pink building, designed by Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta, completely embodies her personality. Her flat, photographed often, is literally painted like a rainbow and is full to the brim of curiosities. I meet Rhodes and Ashley Gray there to talk about the coming exhibition, as well as the past, present and future of

Like icons such as David Bowie, Rhodes has a theatrical, sparkly and rebellious aura

INTERIORS

portraIT OF ZANDRA RHODES BY DAVID DOWNTON

ST Y L E D BY D E S I G N ON S H OW

Pa b l o P i c a s s o , Congres Des Peuples Pour L a Pa i x , 1 9 5 2 , printed cotton

Cressida Bell, Fireworks, 2016, h a n d pa i n t e d silk crepe Georgette

Barbara Hepworth, Landscape Sc u l p t u r e , 1 9 4 7 , silk twill

Alan Reynolds, Weald, 1959, screen printed cotton tweed

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

textile design. On this particular day, Gray brings an original fabric that Rhodes designed for Heal’s in the 1960s – a decade before the Ayers Rock collection – that he has recently acquired. Top Brass is a wonderful, bright arrangement of shapes that resemble medals.

Marianne: How did you come across Top Brass? Ashley: I found it in

clockwise from ABOVE: The Ayers Rock Collection campaign, photo credit: barry lategan; Silk chiffon evening dress from the ayers rock collection, ©Zandra Rhodes 2012; ayers rock drawing by zandra rhodes; sketched designs of the ayers rock collection, ©Zandra Rhodes 2012; Quilted satin tabard from the Ayers rock collection, ©Zandra Rhodes 2012; Ayers rock drawing by zandra rhodes

Manchester at the textile fair not long ago – for me, going there is like going to Hamleys as a child. Every now and then we find something really special, and the timing of this was perfect for our meeting today.

“I think all the arts overlap: I can have a dress that’s influenced by a painting” Zandra: I made it when I was at the Royal College of Art in my last year: about 1963 or 1964. It started off being influenced by Hockney with his medals and generals in a row.

M: Can you tell us more about the Ayers Rock textile that you will be exhibiting? A: When we first met Zandra, Connie was looking at some of her wonderful drawings, but I was in the other room and my eyes fell on this absolutely beautiful, delicate and extraordinary Ayers Rock textile. It was one of those lovely moments that puts the hair up on the back of your neck. It stayed with me for the past two or

three years, which is why I wanted to include it in the exhibition, and then Zandra found the original print in LA. Z: It’s really quite fabulous finding all these different things from the past. A: I love the story Zandra tells in her book, The Art of Zandra Rhodes, about her first visit to Australia and seeing the images of Ayers Rock on postcards. Z: When I saw the postcards I said, “what is it?” and they said, “Ayers Rock, you don’t want to go there though, you want to go to Fiji!”

M: In the book, the way you describe the trip sounds quite spiritual: “The desert was wonderful – the colour incredible – an endless vista of red earth fading into a misty blue horizon, punctuated all the way by these amazing stretches of spinifex grass, sprouting like big pin-cushions.” Would you say that the 1974 Ayers Rock was your definitive collection? Z: Absolutely. There are several museums in Australia that want a record of it.

A: You also describe your Ayers Rock drawings as some of the most laborious. Z: Yes, I stood there in the freezing cold, but they were wonderful to draw: from the rock and the sunrise over the rock, to the spinifex grass. We were covered in red dust because we were in an open four-wheel drive, but it was fabulous fun to do. Then I came back and created the collection of

INTERIORS

ST Y L E D BY D E S I GN ON S H OW

E d u a r d o Pa o l o z z i , Collage Elements, 1952, screen-printed r ay o n

dresses and cloaks, which was my idea of a modern recreation of a toile de Jouy.

M: In your book you explain: “I translated them into fine line drawings on translucent paper and afterwards made several dyeline reproductions. These I cut up, moving the pieces around in different combinations… until I thought it looked authentic and at the same time exciting to my eye.” Z: Yes, and we did it in four screens because it was a deep repeat. Each colour is a screen and we usually only do three.

M: Where else do you find inspiration?

Pat r i c k H e r o n , T a t e G a l l e r y, 1979, silk

Vivienne Westwood, S ta r s , c . 1 9 7 0 s , textile wall hanging

J o h n P i pe r , S t o n e s o f B at h (Green), 1962, screen-printed sanderlin

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Z: I used to go on a two-week holiday somewhere and in that time I would draw things that I saw. I’ve got a funny drawing I did in India when I was in a very dark hotel foyer and they had a stuffed crocodile, instead of something you’d expect, and there was an elephant foot for a table.

M: What’s your secret to being consistently successful and relevant? Z: Part of me would say luck. But I also consider myself as an artist. My sketch books have become a resource to return to and go through and think ‘what can I get from this?’. I have maybe about 50. They’re made of Japanese rice paper. I bought them in Japan in 1971 and that’s what I drew the Ayers Rock sketches on.

curtains but these very textiles are hugely important – both historically and culturally. You only have to look at one and it takes you to a moment in time. These are the new collectibles. Z: I think ‘new collectibles’ is a lovely idea. Realising that people are seeing all these things that I’ve done as collectible is quite wonderful. A: The phrase I use is ‘what’s modern has never been more contemporary’ because you see the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s echoed in design now. This phrase came to me when I walked into the Fashion and Textile Museum for the first time. No one had actually focused on this idea before – it was like coming to a cathedral. It was physically doing what William Morris attempted to do: blurring the line between decorative and fine art. Z: There’s a resurgence of how people look at fashion and textiles, and see them as not just something that’s whooshing by, but as collectible things. They’re going to become more important, too, because they aren’t digital.

M: Would you make the fashion industry less digital if you could? Z: I don’t think it will become less digital

dress that’s influenced by a painting or by things I’ve drawn. With some of the designs I’m in the middle of, I’m working out how to convert them into interiors. But it’s quite wonderful seeing them being treasured, like Ashley treasures them, and realising there’s now a market in the things that I do before I even make the product.

because so many silk screen set-ups have been closed, so it makes my clothes and fabrics more valuable in a way. Everything is done by hand. We can get stuff done digitally from outside, but for us it doesn’t have much charm. It’s funny because when the Fashion and Textile Museum was built, Ricardo Legorreta wanted us to have little windows so people could look through and see the printing – but I said no. A: These textiles also tie into fashion illustration, because they were done for commercial reasons anyway. Who were we to know that as the decades went by, they would actually become so important.

M: How important are textiles in today’s market? A: Connie says that I deal in carpets and

Styled by Design, 3-7 October, Gallery 8, 8 Duke Street, St James’s, SW1Y, 8dukestreet.co.uk

M: In what ways do fashion and interiors overlap each other? Z: I think all the arts overlap. I can have a

disco

diva The Fall Look from YSL has a distinct 1970s vibe, with a touch of sparkle to prep you for the dancefloor. The Couture Hologram Powder in Lazer Violet can be used to highlight cheekbones, eyes, or even lips (brush it over the top of two new pink Rouge Volupté Shine lipsticks). Add to the retro trend with silver and bronze metallic accents courtesy of Couture Eyeliners and La Laque Couture nail polishes. From £19.50, yslbeauty.co.uk

the night shift 001 Skincare’s new lightweight balm melts in while you sleep. The miraculous Squalane solution, derived from olives, hydrates and increases skin’s elasticity, while marine algae give a vitamin A, C and E boost. £78, 001skincare.com

gourmet skincare La Prairie’s latest addition to its Skin Caviar range is the Absolute Filler Caviar Luxe moisturiser. The cream contains high concentrations of the oil and proteins found in caviar, and is designed to reinstate the volume and substance of youthful skin. £410, laprairie.com

he’s worth it

fleeting florals Former creative director of Penhaligon’s, Nathalie Vinciguerra, launches her own label Anima Vinci – and its first five scents – this month. Rose Prana champions the Centifolia rose, which only blooms for three weeks a year. £150 for 100ml, animavinci.com

Balmain has teamed up with L’Oréal Paris on a collection of a dozen new lipsticks. Launched ahead of September’s Paris Fashion Week, the daring shades range from the deep blue Rebellion right through to the blazing orange Fever. £12.99 each, harveynichols.com

health & beauty

SPA R EV I E W

Great

expectations

Kari Colmans doesn’t let a case of baby brain stand in the way of a wonderful pre-natal massage at COMO Metropolitan’s Shambhala spa

Pregnancy support cushions allow me to lie comfortably on my front

t always helps when you’re geared up for a day of relaxation to know where it is you’re meant to be going. With big hopes for a day away from a teething toddler, I am so caught up in the excitement that I head straight for the only COMO hotel that springs to mind, Belgravia’s COMO The Halkin. After a lot of confusion (there is no spa at The Halkin), and some sympathetic smiles for the girl with a serious case of pregnancy baby brain, the lovely doorman sends me on my way to the sister property where I was originally destined – the COMO Metropolitan – as I curse myself for wasting precious ‘me’ time doubling up on taxi rides. But it’s worth the wait. Stepping into the smart, sleek interior of the Shambhala Wellness Spa, I am greeted with apologies when I recount my journey so far (which is nobody’s fault but my husband’s, of course). I’m here for the signature pre-natal treatment, a massage designed to treat women after their first trimester. The experience starts with a warm footbath for sore, less

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delicate than normal feet, followed by a full body and facial massage. It is tailored specifically to my needs and to the areas that require the most attention – feet, calves, neck, back, shoulders… brain – and is conducted using specially designed massage support cushions that allow me to lie comfortably on my front with a hole cut out for my third trimester-sized stomach, which is a welcome change

to lying on my side or sitting upright. I take a look around the compact space – there are six treatment rooms in total (one of which contains a steam room), as well as a gym. It isn’t the kind of sprawling spa you’ll find in some other London hotels, but its focus on wellness sets it apart. Offering shiatsu, acupuncture and yoga on demand, it’s understated but not lacking; small but perfectly formed. Wanting to avoid wasting any more time in taxis, I walk some of the journey home and get caught up in an animal rights demonstration. With nowhere to turn, I have no choice but to ‘march’ with them all the way to my destination. My baby brain may still be intact, but as I wander calmly along, my pregnancy grumbles most certainly are not. Pre-natal massage, 75 minutes, £120 and 90 minutes, £140, Shambhala spa at COMO Metropolitan London, Old Park Lane, W1K, comohotels.com

In practice The arrival of London’s new super spa, the Wellness Clinic at Harrods, has brought some of the world’s most innovative practitioners under one roof W O R D S : A n g e l i n a V i lla - C lar k e

Dr Tapan Patel PHI Clinic Founder and clinical director of Harley Street’s PHI Clinic, Dr Tapan Patel is the go-to guy for the latest in non-surgical procedures. A specialist in the most advanced laser treatments and injectables, his clinic has also become renowned for offering pioneering skin care. “At Harrods, clients can experience our services in a world-class setting,” Patel says. “We’ll be offering both face and body therapies – such as facial rejuvenation and body contouring, all subject to a prior in-depth consultation.”

While the aesthetics industry is one that is constantly innovating, explains Patel, newer doesn’t always mean better. “Botox and softtissue fillers are still the most popular treatments. When it comes to anything new, it’s about considering the long-term results and safety of the treatments.” Patel reveals that it is the non-surgical side of the industry that is growing the fastest. “More and more patients want a treatment that ‘refreshes’ without radically altering their appearance. The ability to deliver procedures that consistently preserve natural expression and allow someone to be the best version of themselves is my driving inspiration.”

HEALTH & BEAUTY

Louise Parker The Louise Parker Method Leading weight-loss expert and best-selling author Louise Parker will be bringing her six-week programme – the Louise Parker Method – to Harrods. Parker’s approach is about offering intelligent weight-loss programmes that help rewire bad habits. “There is no secret to weight loss, but the closest thing I would say is try to aim for consistency. Find a method of eating, moving and living that is attainable for your life. There’s no escaping exercise. But it needn’t be extreme. “It’s actually a lot simpler than we think to reshape your body once you have a clear plan and have someone to motivate you through the trickier days,” she continues. “Before you know it, you have a lifestyle that keeps you lean, and most of all happy and sane.”

Ross J Barr Acupuncturist From making you look ten years younger to helping to heal a broken heart, Ross J Barr is the acupuncturist called on by the insiders when they need a body or soul reboot. Known for his positive results and warm approach, he specialises in Five Element Acupuncture – the ancient Chinese theory that mind, body and spirit are made up of the five elements and that these energies should be in perfect balance to achieve ultimate wellbeing.   “The acupuncture experience I offer is completely tailored and unique to each individual,” explains Barr. “No two patients are the same. To hear that a patient has conceived, when they never thought they would have children, is amazing. Or just to hear people tell you that they feel like the best version of themselves continually inspires me.”

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Mahi Aramideh The Elixir Clinic The Elixir Clinic has become a trusted name with athletes, professionals and celebrities alike, due to its range of intravenous vitamin infusions, known as VitaDrips. Launched in 2013 by cancer research specialist Mahi Aramideh and nurse practitioner Acaena Amoros, the company offers a preventative, inside-out approach to health. “After a full health assessment, we offer a tailored approach based on our range of VitaDrips,” says Aramideh. “They are packed with vitamins, minerals and amino acids and target a range of issues – from anti-ageing to hair growth, jet lag to post-surgery. “Unlike supplements and creams, where the absorption rate is up to 25 per cent, intravenous infusions have an absorption rate of 100 per cent, so results are immediate with skin looking more radiant and clients feeling more relaxed.” The company has launched a Harrods VIP VitaDrip. “Our new launch will be the ultimate elixir – a custom blend of essential vitamins and minerals. It is a kick-start to a new you.”

The Wellness Clinic at Harrods, 020 7225 5678, harrods.com/thewellnessclinic

food

Good as new

The Grafton Arms has re-opened beside Fitzroy Square after a significant renovation. The 19th-century gastropubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu has also been revamped for the occasion, with a new pan-Asian theme. Highlights include duck and watermelon salad, chicken gyoza with black soya vinaigrette and tiger prawn tempura with sriracha mayonnaise, paired with craft ales. Eight boutique bedrooms will also open upstairs in early 2018. 72 Grafton Way, W1T, graftonarms.co.uk

food & drink

Gold-

plated

sushi special Roll up At new restaurant Sushi Atelier, diners can watch chefs slice and shape sushi and sashimi at speed at the long bar, with options ranging from salmon and sea bream to octopus and snow crab. Dessert highlights include a green tea cheesecake and a soy milk panna cotta with black sesame sauce. 114 Great Portland Street, W1W, sushiatelier.co.uk

hakkasan is celebrating Chinese Golden Week with a limited-edition menu. Executive chef Tong Chee Hwee has teamed up with Dabiz Muñoz, executive chef at StreetXO, to bring a Spanish twist to Cantonese classics, with dishes such as tortilla dim sum with truffle and quail eggs. £88pp for two minimum, until 22 October, 8 Hanway Place, W1T, booking via 020 7927 7000

banquet in a box

bone appÉtit Create cobweb cupcakes and pumpkin buns at La Fromagerie’s workshop this Halloween, or let Rococo Chocolates do the work with its ganache-filled pumpkin. 28 October, tickets £20, 2-6 Moxon Street, W1U, lafromagerie.co.uk; Ganache pumpkin, £27.50, 3 Moxon Street, W1U, rococochocolates.com

Taken by surprise

Maison Sarah Lavoine has collaborated with Sushi Shop on a limited-edition 42-piece box, in interior designer Lavoine’s signature blue. Inside, you’ll find three new creations – beef tartare sushi with gherkins and Worcestershire sauce; citrus and basil yellowtail maki; and crusty tuna rolls – which are also sold separately. £39.90, 67-69 Weymouth Street, W1G, mysushishop.co.uk

Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred restaurant Serge et le Phoque has opened at The Mandrake, Fitzrovia’s eclectic new hotel. The menu changes daily, and from table to table, but a teaser dish of scallops with anchovy, fried leek root and matcha tea gives an idea of the complex combinations to come. 20-21 Newman Street, W1T, themandrake.com

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food & drink

R estau r a n t R e vie w

Fancy Crab W O R D S : m e l i ss a e m e rso n

inner at Fancy Crab, a new opening on Marylebone’s Wigmore Street, is not for the faint-hearted. Soon after my guest and I slide into our blue leather booth, a giant live specimen of the restaurant’s speciality, the red king crab, arrives at our table. Its beady eyes are watchful during the anatomy lesson given by our waitress, during which we learn that the species is a relative of the Alaskan king crab, transplanted to the Barents sea in the 1960s by Soviet scientists, where it flourished beyond expectations. We observe a nearby table being served it whole – complete with showy sparklers – but we decide to start smaller and opt for the crispy king crab bites, crunchy crackers topped with tomatoes and crab meat drowned in a mayo-based sauce. Next up is a (pricey) crispy king crab claw served with potato fries and a side of pickles, which provides the perfect sour balance for the succulent, sweet meat. In between courses, I take a closer look at some of the artworks: recognisable classics photobombed by crabs.

Think Grant Wood’s American Gothic, where the pitchfork has become a crab; or Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine, which has been reimagined as: lady with a rather menacing-looking crab. We move onto our mains and, you guessed it, there’s more crab, although a burger and grilled chicken with yoghurt dressing should satisfy those who prefer turf to surf. We try a merus (the larger part of the leg) raw and a whole leg grilled with butter, preferring the latter for taste but the former for its mango, squid ink and chipotle mayo dips. Not able to pass up the signature dish, we also try the Singapore chilli crab with rice. The sauce is a little lacklustre and not as spicy as I’d expected, but brings some much-needed variety to the way the crab is served over the course of the evening. But it doesn’t end there: the crustacean has managed to scuttle its way onto the dessert menu, too, although thankfully only in appearance. Shellfish fans can tuck into a king crab claw-shaped cheesecake with berry compote. Having had enough crab for one day, I politely bypass this for chocolate fondant with house-made salted caramel ice cream, while my defeated guest opts for the salad of desserts – a single scoop of refreshing cucumber sorbet. Purists expecting to don plastic bibs and roll their sleeves up might be disappointed by the lack of tool work involved at Fancy Crab (the clue’s in the name). But those who find the pincers and armour plating intimidating will be in good company. Now, put down your pliers and take a bow to seafood royalty.

The crustacean has managed to scuttle its way onto the dessert menu, too

92 Wigmore Street, W1U, fancycrab.co.uk 86

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Work of art

The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (pictured) opened its doors in Cape Town in September, and luxury guesthouse Cape View Clifton is offering a four-night package to celebrate. Guests will enjoy a half-day art tour and two tickets to the new museum, as well as picture-perfect views of the Clifton beaches and Twelve Apostles mountain range from the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pool deck. Until 30 November, Cape Contemporary Art Package from approx. ÂŁ1,973 for four nights B&B in a junior suite, capeviewclifton.co.za

image credit: Iwan Baan

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en pointe Ballet dancer-turned-hotelier Alexander Kølpin is behind Copenhagen’s sleek new boutique hotel, situated near the Royal Danish Theatre. The accommodation at Sanders ranges from single rooms inspired by vintage train cabins to a luxurious apartment complete with an open fireplace. From approx. £295 a night for a Coupé single room including breakfast and minibar, hotelsanders.com

into the woods Californian coastal resort Ventana Big Sur reopens this autumn after a multimillion-dollar renovation. As well as two new outdoor pools, an art gallery and a restaurant deck, the resort now boasts a glamping site in the surrounding redwood forest, where creature comforts include safari-style canvas tents, and a shared Bath House with heated floors. Hotel rooms from approx. £517 a night; glamping from approx. £249 a night, ventanabigsur.com

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IMAGE CREDIT: LAURIE FLETCHER

home from home The Pilgrm opens in Paddington this month, with 73 rooms that evoke a sense of vintage charm. Late-night snacks are taken care of at The Lounge – try the mushroom and dolcelatte toastie, or warm milk and cookies. From £129 a night, thepilgrm.com

life’s a beach Hotel Esencia on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula has acquired ten additional acres of coastal property on Xpu Ha Beach, giving guests the chance to stay directly on the white sands in six brand new suites. The whitewashed rooms feature local artworks, and have unobstructed ocean vistas – even the bath is positioned so you can enjoy the sea views while soaking in the tub. Five new jungle suites overlooking the gardens are also planned, while chef Dimitris Katrivesis will be fusing Peruvian and Japanese flavours in the new restaurant, housed under a traditional thatched roof. From £470 a night based on two sharing a jungle suite, hotelesencia.com

T he jewel i n t he

All images courtesy of hotel regent porto montenegro

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Adriatic crown Move over, French Riviera: there’s a new – and until now, somewhat secret – Mediterranean destination that’s emerging on the travel map, and its name is Montenegro. Francesca Lee-Rogers discovers where the yacht set are flocking to

t’s like our very own version of The Truman Show as my husband and I arrive at Porto Montenegro, and it’s exactly how you would imagine a model village to be: superyachts gleam and glisten in the 450-berth crystal-clear marina that tennis player Novak Djokovic’s boat calls home; exclusive designers such as resortwear brand Heidi Klein face each other across the tree-lined pavements; and the calm waters of the harbour and the imposing mountains beyond set a James Bond-like scene. This sums up Porto Montenegro, which is home

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to a famous yacht club, a prestigious property development and the Regent Porto Montenegro Hotel. It wasn’t always such a well-known or esteemed destination, however. Part of the Bay of Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage site, Porto Montenegro is located on a winding bay in the Adriatic Sea in the south-western part of the country. Previously an Austro-Hungarian naval base until the break up of the former Yugoslavia in the 1990s, the area was once used to house and repair submarines.

The 64-metre infinity pool will make you want to dive straight in

FROM TOP: IMAGE ©ZORAN RADONJIC, ZORAN PHOTOGRAPHY; OUTDOOR POOL; THE ARSENAL CUP REGATTA

This was until wealthy investors saw an opportunity to rival the likes of Monaco, Cannes and SaintTropez. Now, Porto Montenegro is a place to see and be seen; city workers are aboard their superyachts and ladies who lunch are out in force, complete with tote bags and designer dogs. And with flights from three international airports – Tivat (7km), Dubrovnik (46km) and Podgorica (90km) – as well as the option to land a private jet and take a helicopter transfer, it’s no wonder Porto Montenegro is firmly on many an A-lister’s map. For those who want to explore all that Porto Montenegro offers, the Regent Porto Montenegro Hotel provides a luxurious base. The exclusive hotel in the marina includes 51 rooms and 35 (one-, two- or three-bedroom) suites, as well as opulent penthouses and a residence. As demand is so high, the hotel is expanding to offer rooms in a mixed-use development project, which is set to open in 2018. Envisioned by ReardonSmith Architects and interior designer Tino Zervudachi of Mlinaric, Henry & Zervudachi, Regent Porto Montenegro unites a Venetian palazzo-style traditional exterior with contemporary lines, soft colours, elegant stone and

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CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: THE OUTDOOR LIBRARY BAR; EXTERIOR SHOT OF HOTEL REGENT PORTO MONTENEGRO; THE GOURMET CORNER

hardwood floors. Our home away from home certainly has the ‘wow’ factor and it also offers a distinct nod to its coastal location, with striped blue furnishings, a compassprint coffee table and a lamp base made of rope. Not that we need much reminding of where we are, though, as the expansive balcony looks out onto the marina and its surrounding boutiques, which include Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Tom Ford. Hotel guests can use the super trendy Yacht Club, but be warned: just looking at the 64-metre infinity pool will make you want to dive straight in. It’s not just humans: during our trip, two ducks decide to take a dip, which provides much poolside amusement. Meanwhile, the sumptuous day beds are the ideal place to watch the world – or ducks – go by, cocktail in hand, of course. However, it’s worth mentioning that if, like me, you wish to grab 40 winks, the dance music might make it difficult to do so, but it’s all part of the Club’s atmosphere. Although if this is to your liking, you’ll love the themed evenings, such as Martini Night Fridays and Moët Ice Sundays. A poolside snack or lunch at the Yacht Club’s summer

restaurant will speed up the recovery process the next day – order the sharing platter with seafood and vegetable tempura, mini fish tacos and arancini balls. There’s also a whole host of global-inspired restaurants to try. The hotel’s own dining room offers a formal setting and features Mediterranean, Adriatic and a few carefully chosen Asian specialities on its menu, as well as a selection of excellent seafood. Meanwhile, those with a sweet tooth can sate it at the Gourmet Corner, which transports you straight to a Parisian pâtisserie. For after dinner, the Library Bar, all dark timber with leather touches, harks back to a bygone gentlemen’s-club era and comes with a cigar menu. In Porto Montenegro itself, there’s Italian, Lebanese and Asian cuisine to choose from, to name just a few. It really is a foodie’s paradise and you’ll be spoilt for choice. The culture here is just as important as the food, however. Work off all the decadent dinners with a visit to the Naval Heritage Collection Museum, which features a decommissioned P-821 Hero submarine; take a speedboat trip to the Bay of Kotor; or walk through the old town of Perast and soak up the ambience. Back at basecamp, there’s only so much gazing at the fleet of yachts moored opposite the hotel you can do before you decide it’s time to either charter your own, or make friends with the yacht set. Put the Moët on ice; the rest of the Adriatic coast awaits. From approx. £181 a night, regenthotels.com

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WaNDER MAN Design maverick Marcel Wanders unveils his latest project, Majorca’s Iberostar Grand Hotel Portals Nous, where hypnotic eyeball mirrors and pole dancing apparatus steal the show W O R D S : E l l en M i l l a rd

op tip for those looking to strike up conversation with Marcel Wanders: functionality in design is a topic best avoided. Halfway through my phone conversation with the Dutch designer, I make the small error of referencing a previous interview, in which he declared his dislike of creating something simply for the sake of using it. This, I quickly learn, is the thing that opens a can of worms. “I am a fan of functionality; I think functionality is super important, but there is other stuff that is so much more important. Functionality, to me, is like the foundation of a house. Without it, the house would crumble – you can’t live in it,” he says. “But the reason that you live in that house and why you like it so much is not because there is a foundation. It just isn’t. If somebody sells me a house and says ‘This is your house, it’s got a foundation’, I’m like, ‘B****, of course it’s got a foundation! What are you talking about? Tell me something I really care about’.” He says this jovially, but it’s by no means a joke. Crafting exquisite objects that capture the imagination – and yes, that function too – is Wanders’ USP, whether that be a storage box shaped like a pig, Pinocchio-inspired tableware or the knotted chair for which he is best known. His design ethos takes a no-holds-barred approach, and it is this that has earned him the monikers of the Crown Prince, Elvis Presley and the Lady Gaga of design. Born in the Netherlands, Wanders found a love of creativity in his parents’ shop, where he would spend his time mending objects that had broken, or making new ones from the scraps. After deciding that this was the career for him, he briefly attended the Design Academy Eindhoven, but was soon expelled. It was, he reveals, a conflict of taste.

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ASTIR RESTAURANT

“At that point in time the school was like so many other schools, advocating classic Bauhaus principles,” he explains. “I was absolutely not ready to understand all the theories behind it. I felt that design was something that you should experiment with, and classic Bauhaus principles were never attractive to me.” In 1995, he founded his Amsterdam-based design studio, and one year later unveiled the object that would launch his career: the knotted chair. The twisty chair features reams of rope wrapped around a carbon fibre core, which marries technology and craftsmanship. So innovative was its design that today, versions of it remain part of the permanent collections at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam and London’s very own Victoria and Albert Museum. While product design is still very much a part of Wanders’ world – he regularly works with the likes of Alessi and Baccarat, and oversees his own homeware company, Moooi – he often has multiple interior design projects on WELLNESS CENTRE the go, working for private clients, retailers and hoteliers. It’s the latter that we’re discussing today. Hotels, Wanders says, are “like the Premier League of interior design”, and this year he has put his stamp on two new openings. The Mondrian Doha, a temple of gold and glass, launches this month – but first is the Iberostar Grand Hotel Portals Nous in Majorca, a project that Wanders worked on for the best part of eight years, before it finally opened this summer.

“The location is pretty amazing; if you know Majorca, there’s no hotel that really sits on the beach in such a fantastic way [as this], so the location was a great inspiration,” he says. “With all our projects, we try to make something new, but we also try to make something that feels authentic and that feels like it belongs there. People don’t want to step in and feel as if they’re in Amsterdam or Miami; they want to feel like they’re in Majorca.” There are 66 suites to choose from, the majority of which are decorated in a crisp monochrome colour palette, with bursts of yellow, red and blue picked up from the soft furnishings and bright artwork on the walls. The standout feature is a mirror that is decorated with a cerulean blue eyeball: “It’s a little bit of a wicked idea that there’s a big eye that follows you around,” Wanders jokes. The rest of the suites are themed, and range from the Games Suite – complete with its own pinball machine, table football and putting green – to the Heritage Suite, featuring paintings by local artists, and the Stargazer Suite that sits at the top of the hotel and comes with its own telescope. There’s also a

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Naughty Suite, a Fifty Shades of Grey-style room with mirrors on the ceiling and a pole dancing area. “The Naughty Suite is fun because it speaks of another kind of aspect, about being in a hotel and having your own room with someone – or a few people, in fact,” the designer deadpans. Wanders personally prefers the regular suites, and stayed in one recently while on holiday with his daughter. It was a rare break from being constantly on the go. Next in the pipeline is the redesign of a palace and a six-star hotel, along with the launch of an innovative anti-pollution face mask currently being trialled in Asia. His dream project, he says, would either be New York’s Metropolitan Opera House (“there is all the drama inside that you can wish for as a designer”) or a mosque in the Middle East. “Every design we make has a political meaning, and I think that it would be great to have a contemporary, European designer who is trusted to do such an important building for the Middle East,” he says, “and it would be great if that designer could do an amazing job and do something that shows respect.” Thinking outside the box is what Wanders does best, and is perhaps why he has been compared to Lady Gaga so many times. It’s a comparison that I’m reluctant to bring up, unsure what his reaction will be – but as it transpires, it’s a comparison he holds highly. “I’m not someone who knows too much about Lady Gaga, but just for fun after this comment I Googled her, and if you Google her and really try to understand her videos and the creativity that she brings to the table, you will see that she’s just an amazing creative soul that has never been boring,” he says. “She takes her music further than just the notes and really inspires a lot of people, so it could be worse. I just wait for the day that they call her the Marcel Wanders of music...”

Clockwise from top RIGHT: Marcel Wanders; Games Suite; Heritage Suite, all images courtesy of Iberostar

From approx. £440 a night, iberostar.com

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T H E Y O G A W E L L N E S S C O M PA N Y

Your Journey To Wellness Through Yoga

Upcoming States of Awe Workshops: A three-part series of yoga workshops to re-connect with the world around us and inspire wonder in our daily life.

Time - 8th October 2017 States - 12th November 2017 Space - 3rd December 2017

Luxury Yoga Workshops & Retreats (+44) 203 621 4388

To Book Workshops & Retreats: www.theyogawellnesscompany.com

@yogawellnessco

PROMOTION

Clockwise from left: Sanchi; Khajuraho; Leopard at Pench Tiger Reserve; Gwalior Fort; Bhimbetka; Tiger at Bandhavgarh

novel, The Jungle Book. The character of Mowgli was inspired by Sir William Henry Sleeman’s pamphlet An Account of Wolves Nurturing Children in Their Dens, a true story about a wolf-boy captured in a village called Seoni. Many of The Jungle Book’s locations can still be found in the vicinity. The state boasts three UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the Khajuraho temples – a display of scintillating architectural skill and exquisite sculptural art. The fine sculptures date back 1,000 years and depict meditation, spiritual teachings, kinship, royalty and most significantly, erotic art. Some of India’s oldest Buddhist relics can be found at Sanchi, northeast of the capital city, Bhopal. Most notable is the Great Stupa, built by Emperor Ashoka in 262 BC after he Explore ancient temples and embraced Buddhism. There abundant tiger reserves in the are a number of other stupas, t the heart of India temples and monasteries here, lies the state of historic central Indian state of along with an archeological Madhya Pradesh. It Madhya Pradesh museum. Bhimbetka, is a microcosm of all meanwhile, is known for its that India has to offer: from ancient forests teeming with wildlife, to imposing forts, palaces, caves and rock shelters which are believed to have been temples and stupas, Madhya Pradesh is full of history, heritage, home to one of the earliest human settlements dating back to the Paleolithic Age. religion and natural beauty. Madhya Pradesh has Madhya Pradesh’s biggest attraction is its something to offer every wildlife. Its forests cover about 25 per cent of the traveller. Gwalior will be of land mass here and are home to 25 sanctuaries interest to music buffs (it and nine national parks covering an area of also boasts a magnificent 10,000 sq km. The vast tracts of forested land are fort); Orchha and Mandu home to more than 20 per cent of India’s tiger are a must-visit for those population with six popular tiger reserves interested in exploring the (Bandhavgarh, Kanha, Panna, Satpura, Pench and palaces of ancient India. Sanjay Dubri National Parks). These woodlands Places of natural scenic also provide a refuge for barking beauty (Bhedaghat, Tawa) abound as do sites of deer, leopards, chital, wild boars, religious interest (Ujjain, Amarkantak). Finally, blackbucks, nilgais and crocodiles. special mention needs to given to the state’s varied Barasingha (literally translated to culinary delights, which range from Mughal’one with 12 horns’) is a swamp inspired meat dishes to deer, the state animal of Madhya local street food (bhutte ka Pradesh. The Kanha tiger reserve is kees) and desserts such as the only place in the world where malpua and jalebis. the species exists. The Pench Tiger Reserve and its neigbourhood provided inspiration For further information, please for the setting of Rudyard Kipling’s visit: www.mptourism.com

Madhya Pradesh: the heart of India

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Beyond the temples Cathy Adams ditches the well-trodden tourist trail heading to Angkor Wat and discovers another side to Cambodia

TRAVEL

’m in the back of a tuk-tuk, skimming around the Wat Phnom temple, when I decide that Phnom Penh is the best capital in Asia. It’s a big statement. But, after two sizeable gin and tonics in the woodpanelled Elephant Bar at the colonial Raffles Le Royal hotel, it’s one that’s easy to make. Right now, Cambodia is that destination that everybody describes breathlessly as ‘this year’s newest hotspot’ or ‘the place you need to know about’. And everyone – this writer especially – thinks it deserves to be better known, which is why I’m here to explore. Starting with Phnom Penh. The capital’s brutal history (Cambodia is not even 20 years out of the Khmer Rouge dictatorship) has long drawn visitors to see the nearby Killing Fields and genocide prison S-21. But away from the inevitable sadness, Phnom Penh has a laidback, fizzy feel that’s – yes, I’ll say it – gone a bit flat in other Southeast Asian capitals. (Spend ten minutes wandering around Phnom Penh’s hippest neighbourhood, Bassac Lane, carved out of a series of micro-bars plying craft beers and boutiques selling dangly earrings and floaty beach dresses, and you’ll see why.) The urban zing is in part due to a huge injection of Chinese cash into Phnom Penh, spent mostly on infrastructure. The airport is newly minted (and a distinctly un-frazzling 20-minute drive from the gorgeous Raffles Le Royal in the embassy district), and en route, it’s obvious the city is moving upwards. New skyscrapers, new highways, new everything. Or almost everything. Phnom Penh has left its Khmer architecture untouched, like the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda complex, complete with gold-tipped roofs. Watch out for young monks

Watch out for young monks with a smartphone in one hand and a selfie stick in the other

THIS PAGE: RAFFLES Le ROYAL OPPOSITE PAGE: OVERWATER VILLA AT SONG SAA

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walking through the temples, with a smartphone in one hand and a selfie stick in the other. Or visit the terracotta-red, wingedroof National Museum with its surprisingly interesting Khmer history exhibits and landscaped green courtyard. The French hangover is also obvious in its road signposts: quaint wrought iron swirls under the street names. In a colonial city like Phnom Penh, Raffles Le Royal isn’t just a hotel: it’s a destination in itself. (Although what an exquisite hotel. Pale yellow walls, dark walnut floors, four-poster beds…)

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Non-staying guests come to drink the Femme Fatale cocktail, named and themed after Jackie O, at the in-house Elephant Bar – or choose from its selection of 40 types of gin. This watering hole is Phnom Penh’s chicest bar, with regulars spilling out to the lawns outside. Post-Phnom Penh, the classic Cambodia itinerary would sling you north to Angkor Wat, the impressive 12th century temple complex. I’ve got a different suggestion: south, towards the coast. There’s only one road between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville, southern Cambodia’s port city on the Andaman Sea. It’s a heart-jumping four hours, past suburban city buildings, scrubby grass worn down by buffalo and finally to lush palm trees and a rather scruffy port. But beyond: the blue sea, and some of Asia’s finest tropical islands. They’re newsworthy, too. Nearby Koh Rong is about to welcome two upscale new resorts early next year: Alila Villas Koh Russey and Six Senses Krabey Island. But I’m off to the original and best.

A fast 50-minute boat journey through these gin-clear waters slingshots you to Song Saa – the luxury private island byproduct of a charitable initiative set up by enterprising couple Rory and Mel Hunter. Song Saa was Cambodia’s first luxury resort, and also its most virtuous – the eponymous foundation works with surrounding villages and partners to both improve the lives of locals and preserve the area’s marine and natural wildlife. Not that the strong conservationist ethos detracts from anything. This turbo-luxe resort is absolutely, terrifically, completely gorgeous and every inch the premium private island Southeast Asian resort you expect when you pull up at the private jetty, in the private boat, being waved at enthusiastically by the resort staff. I mean, Song Saa is so upscale it even exists on a different time zone – one hour ahead of mainland Cambodia. Why? To enjoy the sunset for longer, obviously. That sunset is best paired with a glass of chilled prosecco and a leisurely hour-long swing on a daybed at the appropriately named Vista Bar, while the sun drops into the Gulf of Thailand. Views over Koh Rong opposite (an island larger than Singapore) unfold before your eyes, and if you’re lucky so will sightings of the native colourful hornbills.

THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE: SONG SAA

TRAVEL

E at i ng & d r i n k i ng i n P h no m P e n h Raffles’ Restaurant Le Royal is Phnom Penh’s most elegant dining spot, and the only restaurant in the city to serve Royal Khmer cuisine. Come for the weekend brunch, with champagne and oysters – then cool off afterwards in the sparkling outdoor pool. Some of the best upscale Cambodian cuisine in Phnom Penh is to be found at Malis, with outdoor seating amid lush gardens and koi-filled fountains. Try the river fish cooked with coconut milk and the chicken curry wrapped in lotus leaf, a local speciality. (Tip: if you have to wait for a table, head around the corner to Bassac Lane. There are myriad microbars to choose from, but one of the most playful is The Library, with a long table surrounded by stacks of books.) Looking for a bite that gives back, too? Friends Restaurant, handily right by the National Museum, is a local favourite. This cheerful eatery trains formerly homeless Cambodian youngsters to cook. Try the tapas, plus its fresh juices and cocktails. Known for feeding hungry journalists throughout the war, the banana-yellow colonial Foreign Correspondents’ Club now opens its doors to everybody, and is the ideal setting for a sundowner beer overlooking the Tonlé Sap River and the hundreds of motorbikes that whizz alongside it. The menu is mainly bland Western choices, so come for the atmosphere and the happy hour beer.

Song Saa is absolutely tiny, and you can walk around it in about ten minutes flat – yet thanks to its shady canopy of palms and ferns it always feels like there’s no-one else around. There’s even more solitude to be found in the small Ila spa – a veritable sanctuary in the middle of the island – or by snorkelling the vast surrounding marine reserve or kayaking around the island. More peace still comes from chilling in Song Saa’s gorgeous villas. Everything is natural (it took three years to collect the driftwood and timber that’s dotted around Song Saa). You’ll notice it in the wooden sun lounger, made of mismatched twigs, and the teak four-poster bed swathed in muslin – which makes it even harder to get out of. Come the next morning – an hour earlier than usual – I’m blearily watching the orange/pink/purple sunrise that rips through the clouds. For the moment, I feel like the only one that knows about Cambodia: but it won’t stay that way for long.

Need to know Rates at Raffles Le Royal in Phnom Penh start from £163 a night, raffles.com/phnom-penh All-inclusive rates at private island Song Saa start from approx. £1,070 a night, songsaa.com

Speakeasy Bar Sito is a fun after-dinner choice: find playful cocktails (Bloody Sito and Suzie Wong are favourites) hidden behind a door stacked with library books. And if you really must, Pontoon is a naff (but amusing) nightclub that every visitor should try once.

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Welcome to the

CLUB

As the countdown to the opening of Tottenham Hotspur’s formidable stadium begins, interest in On Four – the level that will become home to the venue’s most sought-after experiences – is reaching fever pitch. We get to the heart of what makes The H Club, the jewel in the crown of On Four, the most coveted private membership in sport

PROMOTION

n the early 1970s, Tottenham Hotspur Football Club allowed a writer exclusive behind-thescenes access to a sport that had, until then, been largely shielded from the media. Hunter Davies accompanied the team for an entire season: he interviewed players at their homes, witnessed dressing room discussions and was often mistaken for a substitute player at away games. Despite the huge changes that have taken place in the industry since The Glory Game was first published, a new edition of his account was printed in 2011 – reaffirming society’s constant fascination with what goes into building a successful football club. Nearly 50 years later, Tottenham Hotspur is still the trailblazer of English football. It is due to open a pioneering members’ club, The H Club, at the new stadium in 2018, which looks set to mark the beginning of an entirely original and elite kind of Premier League experience. The majority of the 90 founding member places have already been filled, and the rest are available via application or referral only. The reason for this careful curation is that members will be embraced completely into the club – they will be as close as one can get without being considered for substitution at half-time. The benefits start way before the referee’s first whistle. The kitchen, overseen by Michel Roux Jr. and a host of other renowned London chefs, offers a choice of five dining experiences that you can mix and match throughout the season. On occasion, a three course meal with a sommelier on hand will be in order – and other times, a burger and a beer at the bar. Dinner alongside club legends and ambassadors will not be unusual, and at least once a season there will be a chef’s table experience with the Roux family.

Dinner alongside club legends and ambassadors will not be unusual

When the time comes to soak up the hairraising atmosphere of 61,559 football fans, members of The H Club can easily access their halfway line seats – the best in the house – via this exclusive area overlooking the stadium. Outside the crucial 90 minutes, members will be present at man of the match ceremonies and first team player visits, and have opportunities to visit the club’s state-of-the-art training centre and attend board member events each season. “Why has the book continued to sell so well?” Davies ponders in The Glory Game’s updated introduction, written in 2001. “I suppose the simple reason is that inside a club, inside a dressing room, basic things are much the same, despite the externals having changed so drastically. The fears, the tensions, the dramas… that sort of stuff goes on, and will go on, forever.” Tottenham Hotspur has yet again closed the gap between the players and the spectators, and as other clubs catch up, we have no doubt that Spurs will be working on the next big thing. The key to being a part of the future of football is to get your foot in the door of The H Club sooner rather than later. To apply for one of the remaining memberships in The H Club, please email onfour@tottenhamhotspur.com

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Property Listings See below for estate agents in your area

Aston Chase 69-71 Park Road NW1 6XU 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com

CBRE Henrietta House 8 Henrietta Place W1G 0NB 020 7182 2000 cbre.co.uk

Chestertons 47 South Audley Street W1K 2AQ 020 7629 4513

Kay & Co 20a Paddington Street W1U 5QP 020 7486 6338

Pastor Real Estate 11 Curzon Street W1J 5HJ 020 3879 8989 (sales)

24-25 Albion Street W2 2AX 020 3468 0917 kayandco.com

48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (lettings) pastor-realestate.com

Knight Frank 55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 5-7 Wellington Place NW8 7PB 020 7586 2777 knightfrank.co.uk

40 Connaught Street, W2 2AB 020 7298 5900 chestertons.com

Robert Irving Burns 23-24 Margaret Street W1W 8LK 020 7637 0821 rib.co.uk

Rokstone 5 Dorset Street, W1U 6QJ 020 7486 3320 rokstone.com Marsh & Parsons 94 Baker Street W1U 6FZ 020 7935 1775 marshandparsons.co.uk

Hudsons Property 24 Charlotte Street W1T 2ND 020 7323 2277 hudsonsproperty.com

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Realty 77-79 Ebury Street SW1W 0NZ 020 3714 0749 sothebysrealty.co.uk

HOMES showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Elegant & exclusive The latest prime properties

Image courtesy of Rokstone

Welbeck Street, Marylebone W1 An exceptional five bedroom Grade II listed townhouse Offering approximately 5,950 sq ft over five floors, this house is a rarity in Marylebone. Master bedroom with en suite bathroom, further bedroom, 2 shower rooms, 3 reception rooms (which can be used as bedrooms), living room, dining room, 2 kitchens, study, 2 guest cloakrooms, strong room, balcony, patio and private garden. Planning permission has been granted: 17/00579/FULL & 17/00580/LBC. EPC: D. Approximately 553 sq m (5,950 sq ft). Leasehold: approximately 937 years remaining

Asking price: £9,250,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY160159

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Crawford Street, Marylebone W1 An immaculate two bedroom apartment in a period converted building A well proportioned property which is made of the entirety of the two top floors of a period converted building, with its own private entrance and staircase. Master bedroom with built in storage and en suite shower room, 2nd bedroom and large bathroom. On the top floor is the spacious open plan kitchen/reception room, benefiting from high ceilings, and opening out on to a balcony. EPC: E. Approximately 96.5 sq m (1,039 sq ft). Leasehold: approximately 104 years remaining

Guide price: £1,800,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/POD170440

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06/09/2017 09:54:20

Montagu Mansions, Marylebone W1 A beautifully refurbished three bedroom apartment Situated on the third floor of a red brick mansion block in the heart of Marylebone with porter and lift access. Master bedroom with balcony and en suite shower room, 2 further bedrooms, family bathroom with underfloor heating, reception room and separate kitchen. The apartment benefits from a spacious hallway, high ceilings, large bay window and smoked oak floors. EPC: D. Approximately 99 sq m (1,065 sq ft). Leasehold: Share of freehold

Guide price: £1,875,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY110101

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06/09/2017 09:59:19

property

Property news PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London

New horizons Kay & Co opens an office in King’s Cross

Rokstone rolls out ultra-prime rental offering PCL agency signs up Sotheby’s lettings boss to lead new division five-bedroom house to let in Knightsbridge priced at £12,000 per week

ay & Co is expanding its operation with a new office in King’s Cross, situated on the ground floor of the Google building, opposite Camden Council. Operating across King’s Cross and Bloomsbury, the new office will offer sales and lettings for those looking to purchase, rent or invest. Martin Bikhit, managing director of Kay & Co, commented: “This is an exciting time for Kay & Co. The expansion into King’s Cross and Bloomsbury fits in with our plans to open new offices in areas with excellent growth potential.” The new office will enable Kay & Co to service the pipeline of new homes being developed by The King’s Cross Partnership, and assist Google employees who are looking to rent in the area. Set to open in spring 2018, the King’s Cross office is the third to be operated by the estate agent, which currently has two offices; one in Bayswater and the other in Marylebone. The expansion comes as the family-run business, which prides itself on its local knowledge, celebrates its 35th year. kayandco.com

PrimeQResi

arylebone-based estate agency Rokstone has launched an ultra-prime rental division in a bid to conquer the prime central London market. Becky Fatemi’s six-year-old firm has signed up Olivia McSweeney, previously of Sotheby’s International Realty, to run the new operation, which specialises in long and short lets in the £500-per-weekplus range across Knightsbridge, Mayfair, Belgravia, Fulham, Kensington and Chelsea, Marylebone and Regent’s Park. Following a stint at Hamptons International, where she was the top lettings fee earner for 2013 and 2014, McSweeney spearheaded the launch of

the lettings arm at Sotheby’s International Realty, and has joined Rokstone with a brief to turn it into a major player on the rental scene. “There has consistently been a strong demand for super prime central London rental properties, yet so few agencies specialise in providing exceptional lettings services for high net worth individuals,” says McSweeney. “Rokstone has a wonderful reputation for consistently providing an outstanding customer experience. Now we have the chance to use that reputation, experience and knowledge of prime central London to fill an important gap in the market, and ensure that all our clients benefit from the exceptional customer service that Rokstone consistently offers.” The new team has already tucked away a series of deals (including a house in Notting Hill’s Brunswick Gardens, which went within days of going on the market for £6,500 per week), and compiled a register with a combined annual rental value of £4.2m. The new division is revolutionising the traditional lettings field, by providing tenants with a range of elite additional services, including access to its Lifestyle Consultancy for assistance with neighbourhood orientation, party and event planning, sourcing designer items and booking tables at London’s most exclusive restaurants. Landlords are offered bespoke home dressing, along with the full gamut of traditional agency services. rokstone.com

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JOURNAL OF LUXURY PROPERTY

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www.rib.co.uk www.rib.co.uk www.rib.co.uk www.rib.co.uk

BOLSOVER STREET, W1W We are delighted to STREET, bring to the market this stunning three bedroom, two bathroom lateral apartment located BOLSOVER W1W on the first floor of an exquisite new development in Great Portland Street. The apartment also has the added BOLSOVER STREET, W1W We aret delighted to access, bring toa the three two999 bathroom lateral apartment located benefi of direct lift roofmarket terracethis andstunning is offered withbedroom, a brand new year lease. on the fi rst fl oor of an exquisite new development in Great Portland Street. The apartment has the added BOLSOVER W1W We are delighted to STREET, bring to the market this stunning three bedroom, two bathroom lateralalso apartment located

£2,750,000 £2,750,000 £2,750,000 £2,750,000

PORTLAND PLACE, W1B A superbly presentedPLACE, two bedroomW1B apartment, recently refurbished to a very high standard, situated on the PORTLAND fifth floor (with lift) of this prestigious building on Portland Place in Marylebone. PORTLAND A superbly presentedPLACE, two bedroomW1B apartment, recently refurbished to a very high standard, situated on the fiAfth floor (with lift) ofPLACE, this bedroom prestigious building on Portland Place in Marylebone. PORTLAND W1B superbly presented two apartment, recently refurbished to a very high standard, situated on the

£1,895,000 £1,895,000 £1,895,000 £1,895,000

benefi t of access, a roof terrace and is offin ered with a brandStreet. new 999 year lease. also has the added on rstdirect floor lift of exquisite development Great The apartment Wethe are fidelighted toan bring to thenew market this stunning threePortland bedroom, two bathroom lateral apartment located benefi t of direct lift access, a roof terrace and is off ered with a brand new 999 year lease. also has the added on the first floor of an exquisite new development in Great Portland Street. The apartment benefit of direct lift access, a roof terrace and is offered with a brand new 999 year lease.

fiAfth floor (with lift) of two this bedroom prestigious building on Portland Place in Marylebone. superbly presented apartment, recently refurbished to a very high standard, situated on the fifth floor (with lift) of this prestigious building on Portland Place in Marylebone.

For all enquiries please contact us on 020 7927 0616 or email us at sales@rib.co.uk Margaret London, 8LF us at sales@rib.co.uk For all enquiries please23-24 contact us on Street, 020 7927 0616 W1W or email For all enquiries please23-24 contact us on Street, 020 7927 0616 W1W or email Margaret London, 8LF us at sales@rib.co.uk For all enquiries please23-24 contact us on Street, 020 7927 0616 W1W or email Margaret London, 8LF us at sales@rib.co.uk

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23-24 Margaret Street, London, W1W 8LF

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PATHÉ BUILDING, SOHO W1F

Price: £1,325 P/W*

CARLISLE STREET, SOHO W1D

Price: £2,450 P/W*

020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ enquiries@rokstone.com

property

Property news Clivedale tops out at The Mansion Demand for premium apartments is still strong says Mayfair developer, as buyers snap up two-thirds of the units at its new luxury project in Marylebone

hree years after making a splash in prime central London with four prominent acquisitions, Clivedale London has topped out its debut residential project and reported a strong take-up from top-end buyers. The final joist was hoisted into place at The Mansion on Marylebone Lane yesterday, marking a milestone for both the building and the firm behind it – the UK real estate arm of Indian conglomerate Indiabulls. Due to complete in Q2 2018, the DSDHA-designed seven-storey development is billed as “a contemporary interpretation of a classic London mansion block”, and will sport a terracotta façade as a nod to the traditional red-brick architecture of Marylebone. The 23 apartments include laterals and duplexes, ranging from studios to a pair of marquee penthouses, and cost upwards of £4.7m. All will have access to 6,500 square feet of amenities, including a private residents’ lounge overlooking a sunken garden, a spa and fitness centre with sauna, steam and private treatment room, and Marylebone’s biggest private indoor swimming pool (25m). According to reports, 15 of the 23 units have been sold to date. Clivedale has also partnered with some top heritage brands to set the offering apart from the pack. Residents’ perks will include a chauffeurdriven Bentley house car, Fortnum & Mason grocery deliveries, housekeeping from Maid of London, and dry cleaning services from Jeeves of Belgravia. image courtesy of cliveden london

PrimeQResi

Spotlight on lettings Arya Salari, head of lettings at Knight Frank’s Marylebone office, reports on the latest tenant survey Knight Frank’s UK Tenant Survey for 2017 has been released and some interesting statistics can be drawn from it. The most prevalent type of household in the private rented sector in London is couples without children, followed by those living on their own. Together, these households account for 59 per cent of the demographic. According to the survey results, 37 per cent of renters are in the sector through choice rather than issues around the affordability of owning a home. When asked to choose why they are renting, they identified flexibility of renting, not having the responsibility of owning, or living in an area where they couldn’t otherwise afford to live as the main reasons. Saying this, 30 per cent of those surveyed were saving for a deposit for a house or apartment. In London, 35 per cent of tenants are paying more than half of their net monthly income on rent, with proximity to transport links being their key priority. Of the respondents, 42 per cent say that the London Underground is their main form of transport, with 31 per cent of commuters living within a 30-minute journey from their place of work. The current state of play in the market shows that 41 per cent of renters have lived at their current address for three years or more, with nearly a quarter living there for more than five years. If you would like a copy of this informative market research do not hesitate to contact me via email: arya.salari@knightfrank.com

themansionw1.com

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JOURNAL OF LUXURY PROPERTY

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MOVE TO LONDON’S CULTURAL QUARTER THIS AUTUMN Exceptional, spacious & luxurious 1,976 sq ft Mews Houses. Overlooking serene private gardens. A few minutes’ walk from Waterloo station & the cultural delights of the Cut & the South Bank. Property to sell? Speak to us about Part Exchange*.

Limited availability. Final 2 townhouses from £1.950,000 Apartments & penthouses also available from £599,995 Book your appointment to view now: valentineplacese1@crestnicholson.com 1-19 Valentine Place, London, SE1 8QH

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BUSTLING & VIBRANT. WELCOME TO BOROUGH. Live in London’s hottest postcode SE1. Minutes’ from thriving Borough Market & Bermondsey Street. Situated in Zone 1, opposite Borough underground station. Luxury apartments, penthouses & townhouses with a 24 hour concierge. Limi ted avai l abi l i t y. Pri c es f rom £ 8 9 9 , 9 9 5 Book your personal appointment to visit us: Mon 12 - 7pm | Tues to Fri 11am - 7pm | Sat & Sun 11am - 4pm 180 High Street, SE1 1LH | brandonhouse@crestnicholson.com

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Terms and conditions apply. Please speak to a Sales Advisor for more details on Part Exchange. Street scene, Show Home and local area photography. Pricing correct on 18.09.17.

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The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings

Drawing of St Dunstan-in-the-West by SPAB Scholar Ptolomy Dean

Founded by William Morris, the SPAB protects the historic environment from decay, damage and demolition. It responds to threats to old buildings, trains building professionals, craftspeople, homeowners and volunteers and gives advice about maintenance and repairs. Since 1877 countless buildings have been saved for future generations.

Information about maintaining your home is available through events, courses, lectures, publications and telephone advice. To support our work why not join the SPAB? Members receive a quarterly magazine, our list of historic properties for sale and access to our regional activities.

www.spab.org.uk 020 7377 1644 A charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England & Wales. Company no: 5743962 Charity no: 1113753 37 Spital Square, London E1 6DY

Visualisation of a two bedroom apartment with 4.1m ceiling heights. View shows living joinery detail that can be purchased separately.

L AU N CH I N G OCTO B ER Introducing Luma at Parkside King’s Cross. Situated between Lewis Cubitt Park and Persian inspired Jellicoe Gardens, Luma is a unique collection of contemporary apartments imagined by award-winning architects Squire & Partners, and interior designers, Conran + Partners.

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13/09/2017 18:09

BasPhoto / Shutterstock.com

Movers& shakers Marylebone and Fitzrovia have long been hubs for creativity and innovation. Here, local agents explain why the area offers such an attractive prospect for professionals looking to put down roots in the capital

Knight Frank Ali Mathews, sales negotiator

The postcodes of W1 and NW1 are made up of a colourful tapestry of residents. Marylebone retains its position as one of the most desirable locations for professionals in prime central London. Getting to know a client on a more personal level always helps with a property search; connecting people and property is what we do, after all, so I often ask my clients ‘why Marylebone?’ A common answer is the excellent transport links into the City, Canary

Wharf and beyond, which are hugely enticing. The opening of the Crossrail next year will provide further transport options, which will also benefit residents looking for a stress-free commute. It comes as no surprise that professionals want a slice of central London living, slightly removed from the frenetic pace of the West End. Marylebone in particular offers aspirational living at its best. Residents have an array of boutiques and exceptional drinking and dining options

on their doorstep, from the rustic British gastropub The Grazing Goat on New Quebec Street, to the favourite celebrity haunt Chiltern Firehouse. Aside from the glamour, there is also a strong sense of community in Marylebone, which sets the area apart from many other central London locations, as does its proximity to the vast open spaces of Hyde Park and Regent’s Park. 55 Baker Street, W1U, 020 3641 7938, knightfrank.com

property

Kay & Co

Rokstone

Martin Bikhit, managing director

Becky Fatemi, director

Joining Apple in Battersea Power Station, Google in King’s Cross, Twitter in Soho and Facebook and Instragam in Fitzrovia, is the latest tech giant – Snap, the parent company of Snapchat – which has announced it is moving its international headquarters to Fitzrovia. Now is the time to consider investing in these areas. Fitzrovia, traditionally known for its rag trade, is fast becoming a creative tech hub and, with Facebook moved in, the postcode is attracting a younger crowd. Based on previous data from Cambridge, Reading and Oxford, which were all transformed into tech hubs, and which have all seen a surge in property prices of up to 60 per cent in five years, we predict a similar pattern in Fitzrovia, Soho and King’s Cross, especially if the extra 3 per cent stamp duty levy on buy-to-let is lifted. New schemes are boutique and offer excellent transport links, quality design, high specification homes with porters / concierge and security, which are perfect for investors, wealthy students and

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

professionals. There are several reasons why the tech giants are choosing London. The weaker pound is attracting companies previously put off by high relocation costs; and British universities continue to rank among the best in the world, providing the next generation of young workers. Meanwhile, the government has announced a number of measures to help businesses, including £1.9bn allocated for boosting the UK’s cyber security to make it a safer place to trade and conduct deals, and £1bn investment in super-fast broadband and 5G technology. Properties let in Q2 2017 in Fitzrovia, Bloomsbury and Soho achieved an average of £52.33 per square foot per annum in rent, up from £50.32 in Q2 2016, while average flat prices are now 52 per cent higher than they were five years ago. Properties sold in Q2 2017 achieved an average price of £1,438.000 for flats and £1,954,000 for houses. 20a Paddington Street, W1U, 020 3504 9981, kayandco.com

With their trendy restaurants, fashionable boutiques, outstanding transport links, and proximity to some of London’s best-loved green spaces, Marylebone and Fitzrovia are proving to be enduringly popular prime central London locations for residential buyers. The areas also boast some of the best schools in the country, such as Wetherby and Queen’s College. While both areas were once seen as considerably less popular than their prime central London neighbours such as Mayfair and Knightsbridge, Marylebone and Fitzrovia have recently undergone significant transformations. Now, with revamped streets such as Marylebone High Street, Quebec Street and Chiltern Street, their impressive retail and leisure offering includes central London’s celebrity hotspots The Chiltern Firehouse, BXR Gym and celebrity hair salon Daniel Galvin. Both areas have also witnessed the arrival of luxury new developments such as Galliard Homes’ The Chilterns and The Fitzroy Place development. With Marylebone and Fitzrovia attracting celebrities including Guy Ritchie and creatives such as Lara Bohinc and

Caroline Issa, the neighbourhoods are now home to the cool set. However, Marylebone and Fitzrovia are also very attractive prospects for many commercial industries. While Marylebone has long proved popular with medical and dental companies keen to be close to the ubiquitous Harley Street, the area is now also enticing the creative industries, with a number of PR and marketing firms moving to the area. They are seeking the very same things that are attracting residential buyers – proximity to some of London’s best restaurants, shops, cultural hotspots and excellent transport connectivity, factors that will impress staff and clients alike. Fitzrovia, meanwhile, has seen a number of art galleries migrate to the area, no doubt drawn in by the neighbourhood’s lingering reputation as a bohemian enclave. Fitzrovia also remains a popular location for the fashion industry, with buyers attracted to the area’s revitalised retail and leisure offer, and its proximity to Oxford Street and Bond Street. 5 Dorset Street, W1U, 020 7580 2030, rokstone.com

121

Montagu Square –

MARYLEBONE W1

A Grade II Listed Duplex on Marylebone’s Premier Garden Square £2,500,000 K AY & C O

–

LEASEHOLD

Situated in one of London’s most sought after garden squares on the ground

MARYLEBONE

and lower ground floors of a charming Georgian building, this gracious flat

& FITZROVIA

benefits from three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, a reception room

020 3394 0027

and a dining room – all of which include high ceilings and a wealth of period

K AYA N D C O . C O M

features. This delightful property also includes a courtyard and cellar.

Chiltern Place –

MARYLEBONE W1

Stunning Marylebone Duplex with a 1,000 Sq Ft Garden £4,995,000

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LEASEHOLD

This rare luxury duplex apartment features a spacious living area and large eat-in kitchen, as well as two well proportioned bedroom suites – each with it’s

K AY & C O MARYLEBONE

own bathroom, guest cloakroom and a 1,000 sq. ft. garden. Amenities include

& FITZROVIA

a fitness suite, residents’ club, ‘Hotel style’ concierge services, 24 hour security

020 3394 0027

and valet parking. A secure underground parking space is available separately.

K AYA N D C O . C O M

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