Marylebone & Fitzrovia Magazine Sept 2017

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THE

FASHION A celebration of style

issue

from the catwalk and beyond

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: DIOR turns 70 s mario testino’s art collection s ALICE TEMPERLEY ON CRAFTSMANSHIP

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© 2016 TUMI, INC. © 2016 TUMI, INC.

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CONTENTS September 2017 28 14

Regulars 08 Editor’s letter 10 Five minutes with...

Erlend Norby, the

founder of tailoring

house Taliare 12 The agenda

A cultural round-up

of what to read, see

and do this September 56 Savoir faire

Parisian gowns

straight from the

catwalk steal the show

in this month’s haute

couture fashion shoot

Features 14

From catwalk to cover Celebrated fashion houses release glossy style bibles

37

20

32

66

20 Basic instincts

Fashion brand TOAST

champions simplicity

and cultural engagement

with its A/W17 collection 24 How to spend a million

Fashion and film

memorabilia from

Audrey Hepburn’s

private collection go

under the hammer 28 More than a woman

Fashion photographer

Lucia Giacani joins the

LUMAS gallery portfolio 32 Test of time

William Vintage

collaborates with

Farfetch on a retro

Versace collection 66 Sewing new seeds

The future of Savile Row

through the eyes of

author James Sherwood 98 The road to the end of

the world

Exploring glacial rivers

and evergreen forests

in the wilds of Patagonia 102 Welcome home

Kicking back in the

Caribbean at the

unspoilt Jamaica Inn

35 Collection

49 Fashion

80 Health & beauty

94 Travel

42 Art

71 Interiors

88 Food & drink

107 Property

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MARYLEBONE

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Editor Lauren Romano

editor

From the

KILLING TIME III, IMAGE CREDIT: LUCIA GIACANI, CoURTESy of TRUNk ARChIvE AND LUMAS.Co.Uk

INTERVIEW

than a More

Assistant Editor Melissa Emerson

woman

Contributing Editors Hannah Lemon Camilla Apcar Kari Colmans

New to the LUMAS Gallery portfolio, fashion photographer Lucia Giacani’s Killing Time series plays with female stereotypes, creating edgy and playful tableaus. She tells Kari Colmans how she set out to capture the modern woman

W

orking from her studio in Milan, fashion photographer Lucia Giacani has shot campaigns for the likes of Valentino and Furla. Her surrealist compositions, which have graced the pages of Vogue and Vanity Fair, set the scene for a range of strong female characters. Collectively, these brightly coloured snaps seek to portray the modern woman in all her different guises. Here, Giacani shares the thought process behind some of her most powerful images...

Collection Editors Mhairi Graham Richard Brown Acting Assistant Editor Marianne Dick Brand Consistency & Senior Designer Laddawan Juhong Production Hugo Wheatley Jamie Steele Alice Ford General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

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RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP

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DISTRIBUTION: The Marylebone & Fitzrovia Magazine is distributed in Marylebone, Fitzrovia and the surrounding areas

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8

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

29

“Don’t buy much, but make sure that what you buy is good” Christian Dior From haute couture to the high street, we dedicate this, our style issue, to fashion in all its forms. As moguls, models and the media run the gamut of London Fashion Week this month, we look to the old-timers who have shaped our wardrobes: Maison Schiaparelli, Ralph Lauren and Pierre Cardin are releasing glossy style bibles to mark landmark anniversaries (p.14), while Dior celebrates 70 years in business with an exhibition of striking archive finds in Paris (p.94).

Elsewhere, fashion and fantasy collide as Alice Temperley reflects on her career so far (p.52), Mario Testino unveils his extensive art collection (p.46), and Toast launches a book club to coincide with its A/W17 collection (p.20). The catalogue for the hotly-anticipated Audrey Hepburn auction at Christie’s also makes for interesting reading. We preview the prize lots going under the hammer, including the style icon’s Burberry trench coat and her script for Breakfast at Tiffany’s (p.24). Let the bidding war commence...

Lauren Romano

Editor Follow us on Twitter @MandFMagazine

On the

cover

Also published by

R u n w i ld M ed i a G r o u p

from christian dior: designer of dreams, image credit: emma summerton. read more on page 94.

luxurylondon.co.uk A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.

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Regulars

5 minutes with...

“I would like to dress Roger Federer. He carries himself with grace and style” I was born in Norway and moved to Britain in 1996 to study fashion design. Previously I studied cutting and pattern making at a French school in Oslo. I was creative director and cutter at 40 Savile Row for six years, after which I became the general manager for Stephan Shirts where I pioneered my made-tomeasure suit service.

I founded Taliare in 2014. I wanted to create a contemporary tailoring house that offers a personal service and excellence in design, fabric and cut; a place where you can have everything made, from casualwear to formalwear.

erlend norby The founder of tailoring house Taliare on crafting the finest clothes and missing the Norwegian fjords I often miss Norway, especially

The made-to-measure suit is our most popular service. British men in general are more traditional and less likely to experiment. They rely on a long tradition of tailoring, which has been tried and tested over time.

One of my favourite commissions was a bottle green smoking jacket with a satin collar and green frogging.

It was a surprise present commissioned by parents for their young student son.

I would like to dress Roger Federer.

His tennis career has been spectacular and he is a great ambassador for the sport. I think he always carries himself with grace and style.

The most precious item in my wardrobe is my vintage morning coat. It has a silk trim and was made by Savile Row tailors Welsh & Jefferies in 1949 for an army officer. My silk top hat, made in Oslo at the turn of the 19th century when the city was called Christiana, is also special. I wear them with pride to Ascot every year.

the wildlife and the mountains and fjords. When I’m in the UK though, I enjoy my walk to and from work through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park.

The parks look wonderful all year round and provide a sanctuary from busy London life.

I love the sense of community in Marylebone. I’m spoilt for choice for shops and restaurants. The Basque food at Donostia and Lurra is superb and you can’t beat Sandy’s for pizza. I like visiting Thompson’s Galleries for contemporary British art.

Collecting art is my guilty pleasure. I have been lucky enough to dress some great artists, including Hugo Wilson, who has also become a friend.

Taliare, 5A Seymour Place, W1H, taliare.com 10

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Alexi Kaye Campbell’s acclaimed play Apologia has arrived at Trafalgar Studios. Directed by Jamie Lloyd, the drama, which is as prickly as it is funny, is centred on an explosive family reunion for the birthday of matriarch Kristin, played

by Tony and Emmy award-winning Stockard Channing. A large wooden frame surrounds the entire stage and sets the scene for the stellar five-strong cast, which also includes Laura Carmichael of Downton Abbey fame and former Doctor Who star Freema Agyeman.

From £35, until 18 November, atgtickets.com/shows

5

image credit: stephen sprake

curtain call

1 2

Cultural news and events from in and around London

3

For its second installment, Crossroads art fair is taking over the basement of a Grade II-listed Neoclassical building on Bloomsbury Square. Here, newly appointed director Liv Vaisberg (pictured) will be staging a huge exhibition of works from the 35 galleries taking part.

30 September – 4 October, Victoria House Basement, WC1, crossroadsart.net

TREASURE TROVE Antiques Anonymous, the first annual flea market to be held by a collective of dealers in vintage clothing, antiques, art and design, including Alfies Antique Market, takes place this month. The event coincides with the final day of the London Design Festival and will include street food stalls, exhibitions and live music.

24 September, 11am – 5pm, Church Street, NW8, antiquesanonymous.london

4 t h i s gold en t ome gives a gli m pse int o the wo rld and wo rk o f former vogue ph ot ographer robert doisneau in p ost- wOR LD WA R II france . scenes from everyday life sit al o ngside sh ots of picass o and brigitte bard ot. out 7 se pte mbe r , £45, wat e r stones.com

flying high Holly Zandbergen was shortlisted for the New Zealand Art Show Emerging Artist award in 2013, and her work continues to garner interest across the globe. Her latest exhibition, I Sit in the Blue of the Hills, opens at Rebecca Hossack Gallery this month. Ten major works, inspired by the Southern Alps of her native New Zealand and the photography of environmentalist Craig Potton, demonstrate her use of the impasto technique, where layers of paint are gradually built up to create a 3D effect.

6-30 September, 28 Charlotte Street, W1T, rebeccahossack.com Mt Taranaki in Winter, 2017, Holly Zandbergen, oil on canvas, 80 x 100cm

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off the wall

left: Self Titled adaptation of the Vase of Flowers on a Garden Ledge (ca 1730), 2017, Right: Self Titled adaptation of The Weeping Woman, 2015; both Niko Luoma, Courtesy of the artist and Atlas Gallery

image CREDIT: SIMON TURTLE

The agenda

image CREDIT: Pablo Cepeda

Regulars

6 composition and colour Finnish artist Niko Luoma explores a different side to photography in his second exhibition at Atlas Gallery. By repeatedly exposing negatives to light, he creates his own abstract interpretations of famous works of art by the likes of Van Gogh and Picasso.

15 September – 13 November, 49 Dorset Street, W1U, atlasgallery.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

HIDE AND REVEAL

+MODO We don’t just look at kitchens, we live and feel them. The kitchen is now a platform for a journey of constant creation and discovery.

Poggenpohl has 21 points of sale throughout the UK & Ireland For your nearest Poggenpohl Studio please go to www.poggenpohl.com/en/find-a-studio info@uk.poggenpohl.com www.poggenpohl.com

FEATURE

From

catwalk to

cover

As international fashion houses celebrate landmark anniversaries with glossy new tomes, we pick out our favourite pages marking the evolution of design

70

WORDS : H a n n a h L e m o n

Opposite page: Silk jacquard dress with pleated flounces and satin belt, 1991 ©Laziz Hamani; Above: Models wearing sunglasses and vinyl necklaces from the Fall 1970 collection ©Archives Pierre Cardin

years of Pierre Cardin

The futurist of fashion, French visionary Pierre Cardin inspired a new silhouette for the female figure.

Synonymous with the 1950s and 1960s retro look of those decades, Cardin played with form to create unusual geometric shapes: cocktail dresses with conical breasts and ‘bubbled’ hems.

This guide to Cardin’s entire oeuvre goes to show that his quest for new creative expression is far from over.

pierre cardin w r i t t e n b y J e a n - Pa s c a l Hesse, foreword by Marisa Berenson. £130, published 1 september by assouline, assouline.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

15

50

years of Ralph Lauren

“Ralph conjures up all the things I most care about: the country, misty mornings, summer afternoons, great open spaces, cornfields, vegetable gardens, fireplaces, and Jack Russell terriers.” Audrey Hepburn opens this landmark tome with a complimentary foreword celebrating the life and work of the American clothing magnate. Lauren himself goes on to candidly commentate on how a childhood in the Bronx led to a fashion label that has lasted half a century.

Ralph Lauren: R e v i s e d a n d E x pa n d e d Anniversary Edition Written by Ralph Lauren, Foreword by Audrey Hepburn. £35, published 5 september by rizzoli, rizzoliusa.com

FEATURE

models: Valentina Zelyaeva, Andreea Diaconu, Anna Selezneva. photography: Carter Berg, 2013, Paris

“Personal style is about having a sense of yourself and of what you believe in, which is basically

self-confidence” – Ralph Lauren

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

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FEATURE

90

years of Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli’s rebellious ideas for haute couture were born during the hard inter-war years, taking form from the avant-garde Surrealist scene.

Conspiring with artisans, painters, sculptors and writers, the demure Italian figure worked with the likes of illustrator Marcel Vertès and flamboyant painters René Magritte and Salvador Dalí. Together, as Elsa decreed, they made fashion sense “the trend of history and precede it”. clockwise from above: model dressed in Schiaparelli in front of the Schiaparelli boutique, 1954; Illustration for the fragrance ‘Shocking’ by Marcel Vertès; Illustration for the fragrance ‘Sleeping’ by Marcel Vertès

S c h i a pa r e l l i a n d the Artists Written by Andre L e o n Tall e y, Suzy Menkes and Christian L ac r o i x .

Published 3 Oc t o b e r b y rizzoli, £65, rizzoliusa.com

18

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

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INTERVIEW

Basic

instincts In a time when fast fashion followers sprint after the latest trends, Toast wants to slow down the high-street shopping tempo. The brand’s head of design Laura Shippey talks to Lauren Romano about taking the time to appreciate craftsmanship and creativity

LAURA SHIPPEY

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

S

implicity, ease, functionality: these words are Toast’s bread and butter. What began in West Wales in 1997 as a loungewear label has grown into a lifestyle brand with thoughtfulness at its core.

Thoughtfulness might not be the first adjective that springs to mind when referring to a company with 12 high-street shops and aspirations to infiltrate the global fashion arena. But CEO Suzie de Rohan Willner, who was appointed in 2015 to work with founders Jessica and Jamie Seaton, is championing cultural engagement on the shop floor and beyond.

As part of its S/S17 The Works of Heart campaign, for example, Toast invited artists to enter their creations into a competition – with each of the winning entries displayed in one of the brand’s stores. Additionally, this season, a book sharing initiative has been launched to coincide with the A/W17 range (more on that later).

In the studio, head of design Laura Shippey creates clothes that allow the wearer to do the talking and not the other way around.

“That old adage ‘dress to impress’, or even express, is not the Toast game,” she tells me. “I’m interested in designing clothes that are understated, functional

21

and comfortable; clothes that are fit for purpose – that fit both your body and your mood. I want to leave the people who wear them free to say whatever they want.”

The Toast design philosophy, one that also “celebrates the beauty and value of craft, creativity and functionality”, is encapsulated in a series of hero pieces, from workwear dresses to tailored trousers and jackets, alongside soft knitwear and oversized shirts. These are made from materials “that nod to the past or different cultures”, such as Italian wool and Peruvian alpaca.

There’s an Ordinary Attire Studio range, too – an edit of perennially popular everyday staples that look both current and timeless; no easy feat in today’s trend-led fashion landscape. Shippey is a believer in trusting her instincts: “Ultimately you have to balance the question: ‘is this exciting?’ with ‘will I love it for a long time?’” she says.

Toast’s A/W17 campaign, The Enrichment of Others, celebrates the “meeting of artistic minds through creativity” and runs alongside an overarching campaign both in-store and online.

“It was inspired by the Black Mountain College, a liberal arts college in North Carolina that ran from 1933 to 1957 and laid the foundations for the American avant garde,” Shippey explains. “We wanted to reflect the intermingling of ideas and cultures that took place there in the collection.”

Cue the book sharing campaign. Amid the rails of gathered shirting, balloon-sleeve sweaters and cropped trousers in navy, biscuit and teal, in each of the brand’s stores customers will be invited to leave a book, with a handwritten note inside explaining how it has enriched them, before taking one in return.

“Our customer base is full of creative women who are passionate

“Slowing down and taking in the moment feels as relevant now as ever”

about the arts, culturally aware and who thrive on connecting with like-minded souls,” explains CEO de Rohan Willner, who recommends A Little Life by Hanya Yanagihara: “it’s the most beautifully written love story. I was completely lost in the narrative and found myself re-reading paragraphs for sheer pleasure,” she says. “It matters that our stores are more than simply productfocused; instead we hope to create places of calm and connection that provide meaningful experiences and foster thoughtfulness.”

“Slowing down and taking in the moment feels as relevant now as ever,” adds Shippey. And there is plenty to appreciate in the tactile A/W17 collection, including her favourite ensemble, a cotton/linen pleat front trouser paired with a herringbone khadi tie-neck blouse. “It encapsulates that textural feeling we strive for: a rumpled, slightly masculine trouser paired with the soft sensuality of hand-spun cotton khadi in a feminine shape.”

Other highlights include a seamless Fair Isle jumper, made in Scotland, which demonstrates “an interplay of traditional craft and modernity”. It might not be as eye-catching as a Saint Laurent chain mail dress, or millennial pink everything, but if Shippey’s design track record is anything to go by, you’ll be digging it out of your wardrobe for many seasons to come.

44 Marylebone High Street, W1U, join the Toast book club at: toa.st/uk/enrichmentofothers

INTERVIEW

ALL IMAGES: A/W17 COLLECTION, COURTESY OF TOAST

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

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How to

spend

a million

FEATURE

Twenty-four years after her death, Audrey Hepburn’s enduring appeal is set to be proven once more in an auction of her personal archive. Camilla Apcar speaks to the director of private collections at Christie’s about the late actress’s legacy

A

udrey Kathleen Hepburn, born in 1929 in Belgium, left Europe at the age of 22 to star in the Broadway adaption of Gigi. It all escalated from there. She took to Hollywood for Roman Holiday in 1953, and became the first actress to win an Academy Award, a BAFTA, a Tony Award and a Golden Globe in the same year. With wide eyes and sweeping brunette hair, she soon became a paragon of all that is chic.

In September Christie’s will auction a collection of personal items that Hepburn had when she died in 1993, aged 63, from abdominal cancer at her home in Switzerland.

Items from her wardrobe and professional photography and film archive will all go under the hammer. Estimates range from £100 to £80,000. The collection has stayed with her family for the past 24 years: some were exhibited, but most items remained in storage.

“Often with memorabilia on the secondary market the proof of the value is always in proving the provenance,” says Adrian Hume-Sayer, director of private collections at Christie’s. “Obviously all these items have the most impeccable origin, and proving it is simple because it’s come directly from her family.”

The actress’s two sons, Sean Hepburn (from her first marriage to American actor Mel Ferrer), and Luca Dotti (from her second to Italian psychiatrist Andrea Dotti), are joint owners of the collection.

“They’ve already made their selection of what they would like to keep,” says Hume-Sayer. “It was a process they went through with the whole family, thinking about what they would like to pass on to future generations.”

The lots are wide-ranging – sometimes seemingly random – but all reveal something about the personal life of one of the

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

from top: Burberry trench coat from hepburn’s personal collection, 1980s, estimate £6,000-£8,000; GIVENCHY COCKTAIL GOWN from hepburn’s personal collection, 1966/1967, Estimate £10,000-£15,000 opposite page: STEVEN MEISEL, Audrey Hepburn, Vanity Fair, 1991, Estimate £2,000-£3,000

20th century’s most beloved stars. There will be a pair of cream dial telephones from that same home in Switzerland (estimate £800-£1,200); a film camera Hepburn used for making her own films (estimate £2,000-£3,000); portraits by Cecil Beaton (estimates POA); and an Italian gold powder compact with the initials AHF enamelled on top, from her first marriage (estimate £2,000-£3,000).

As far as Hepburn’s time on screen is concerned, “she doesn’t seem to have been hugely sentimental”, according to Hume-Sayer. “Certainly not on the scale of Elizabeth Taylor for example, who kept a massive amount of film props and things to do with her career.

The things that Hepburn did keep were obviously really special to her.”

Among them is a gold lighter given to her by Gene Allen, the art director of My Fair Lady, who won an Oscar

With wide eyes and sweeping brunette hair, Hepburn soon became a paragon of all that is chic for the film’s production and design (estimate £3,000-£5,000) – and a few particularly noteworthy sheets of paper.

A letter from Truman Capote relays his feelings about Hepburn being chosen to play his leading lady Holly Golightly (estimate £4,000-£6,000). “I believe it was widely reported that he was not very happy she had been selected, because really he wanted Marilyn [Monroe],” says Hume-Sayer. “So it’s quite interesting that there’s this letter sort of enthusing about her selection.”

With an estimate of £60,000 to £80,000, the headline lot is Hepburn’s script for Breakfast at

25

“Hepburn’s

look is as fresh now

as it ever was”

FEATURE

Tiffany’s, marked with turquoise ink – her favourite. “You can see where she’d enunciate certain words and where the emphasis in the sentence was going to land,” says Hume-Sayer.

“Having read a page of it, when you watch the film it suddenly all makes sense. Like the scene where she’s calling the cat a slob. She really emphasises the words ‘cat’ and ‘slob’, and underlined them completely in turquoise.”

Hepburn’s enduring appeal is, in part, due to her innate sense of style. “Her look is almost as fresh now as it ever was,” says Hume-Sayer. “I’ve noticed that people look at the clothes in the warehouse and say, ‘Oh I would wear that now.’”

The actress once described her obsession with clothes as bordering on a vice, and her elegant silhouette was developed in large part by Hubert de Givenchy. Their close relationship began after he was hired – at Hepburn’s suggestion – to design her wardrobe for Sabrina. It was Hepburn’s second Hollywood job, the success of which made her the highest-paid actress in the world, when she was offered $350,000 for her next role.

Givenchy went on to design many other costumes, including for Funny Face and Breakfast at Tiffany’s, but the pair’s friendship went well beyond the realms of fashion. When she was not well enough to travel by commercial plane in her final days, Givenchy arranged for a private jet, full of flowers, to take Hepburn home for the last time to Switzerland.

A number of pieces by Givenchy, including a blue satin fringed cocktail dress used to promote the 1967 film Two for the Road, will be in the sale (estimate £10,000-£15,000). Missing, however, is the simple black Breakfast at Tiffany’s dress. Christie’s auctioned it in 2006 for £456,200, surpassing its high estimate of £70,000 and setting a new world record for a lot associated with the actress.

Other lots, like a selection of ballet pumps (from £1,500), are from her day-to-day wardrobe.

“Even though most are not great ball gowns,

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

from top: TWO CREAM CLASSIC DIAL TELEPHONES FROM HEPBURN’S SWISS HOME, 1960s, Estimate £800-£1,200; BUD FRAKER, Audrey Hepburn, 1956, Estimate £500-£800; Hepburn’s working script for Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961, Estimate £60,000-£80,000; CIGARETTE LIGHTER from gene allen, 1963, Estimate £3,000-£5,000 opposite page: BUD FRAKER, Audrey Hepburn, 1956, Estimate £1,000-£2,000 all ©Christie’s Images Limited 2017

when you go along the rails of clothes, you can almost take anything off and it’s somehow chic,” says Hume-Sayer.

Unsurprisingly, interest in the sale is high.

Before the catalogue was printed, more than 500 copies were already sold, which, he continues, “is pretty unheard of. These are numbers that we just don’t see.” Even today, Audrey is set to make more waves.

On view 23-26 September, and for sale 27 September, 8 King Street, SW1Y; online bidding from 19 September, christies.com

27

KILLING TIME iii, IMAGE CREDIT: Lucia giacani, courtesy of trunk archive and lumas.co.uk

INTERVIEW

than a More

woman

New to the LUMAS Gallery portfolio, fashion photographer Lucia Giacani’s Killing Time series plays with female stereotypes, creating edgy and playful tableaus. She tells Kari Colmans how she set out to capture the modern woman

W

orking from her studio in Milan, fashion photographer Lucia Giacani has shot campaigns for the likes of Valentino and Furla. Her surrealist compositions, which have graced the pages of Vogue and Vanity Fair, set the scene for a range of strong female characters. Collectively, these brightly coloured snaps seek to portray the modern woman in all her different guises. Here, Giacani shares the thought process behind some of her most powerful images...

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

29

almost exclusively feature women in my work, the reasons for which are varied.

Being a female photographer, I find it more natural to relate to feminine subjects.

From the choice of model, her pose, hair and make-up to the surrounding scenery and her interaction with it, everything is meticulously planned in advance. Some shoots take months to incubate before springing to life. I often sketch my ideas, too – sometimes these come to me in my dreams.

My work progresses sequentially, almost like a theatre production; and on this stage I place strong female characters. By strong I don’t mean aggressive or muscular: they are often reflective, somehow deep in thought, which doesn’t mean that they are cut off from the world. Most of my models don’t smile too much, but hopefully there is also an irony and playfulness shown to the viewer.

I also love the artist Edvard Munch. Growing up, I remember giving an impromptu tour of one of his exhibitions. I started talking about the pictures to my family, and I was so enthused to see them that other people started to congregate and follow us around the gallery. It was quite strange. I was only 17 at the time.

Madonna was an idol of mine. When shooting I put on a playlist of various disco and pop musicians in a genre that I define as ‘trash’. It’s not very cool, but I love bad music.

I have no interest in shooting sexualised images or rehearsed poses. I like to capture images that I

When it comes to social media and photography, I think it’s great that everyone has a high-resolution camera in their pocket.

find interesting and beautiful. Most of my work has abstract or surreal elements that reveal more about myself, and about other women, than the subversion of any stereotypes.

Millions of people are enjoying the medium and getting creative around the world. However, a lot of stuff on Instagram now is people taking shots of their bodies, when before it was a bit artier.

I hope that we have reached a tipping point in the representation of women. Half of the world is

In some cases, selfies can be a cry for help, or at least point to some sort of fixation. I think that

female, so it is only natural that a balance is found.

I don’t think that we need punky rock females jumping around, but it would be nice to have more poetry in commercial imagery, to represent a thought or a point of view – or a way of being. With more women being educated at university and more working in lucrative and highly important jobs, there is a need for a new way of representing the modern woman.

the adoration of the ego and the search for fame or recognition is ultimately damaging for our society.

But just because they use the same tool as me, doesn’t mean that I can judge them.

The American photographer Francesca Woodman always inspired me when I was younger. I also really liked a shoot by Tim Walker that appeared in Love magazine last year that was inspired by Hieronymus Bosch. It was a bit darker than his normal stuff.

Lucia Giacani’s work is available to view and buy now from LUMAS London, 57 South Molton Street, W1K, lumas.co.uk

INTERVIEW KILLING TIME i, IMAGE CREDIT: Lucia giacani, courtesy of trunk archive and lumas.co.uk

The adoration

of the ego and the search for fame is ultimately damaging for our

society

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

31

Test of time William Banks-Blaney, founder of William Vintage, on his Marylebone treasure trove, memorable discoveries and collaborating with Farfetch

INTERVIEW

Jacket printed with polychrome Warhol imagery, versace S/S 1991

When did your interest in vintage begin?

In a former life I was an interior designer. I would always find something wonderful during buying trips that I would gift to a client or friend. It was the inception of William Vintage. Now we hunt down vintage fashion from around the world, from holiday dresses at £200 to haute couture gowns at £20,000.

What do you categorise as ‘vintage’?

The word ‘vintage’ is used and abused and is also hugely subjective. At William Vintage, we stock discoveries from the early 20th century to the early 21st century, ranging from Poiret and Dior to Givenchy and Tom Ford. For me, it’s about the relevance of the clothing and the importance of the designer in their time.

Amal Clooney in 1981 Saint Laurent for the 2016 Berlin Film Festival, Gillian Anderson in 1956 Sybil Connolly for the 2012 Baftas, and Emma Thompson in 1970s Lanvin for the Golden Globes in 2014.

Do you often find things in unexpected places?

Which designers do you most admire?

I love that our discoveries are made anywhere from Paris to Palm Beach, and all end up being available for sale in our Marylebone store.

Perhaps my most memorable discovery was a long-lost Balmain ballgown, which we unearthed, safely boxed and forgotten about, in an 18th century cellar in Paris. You never know when you will find something truly special.

Gianni Versace – he always made luxurious, joyous clothing without pomposity, and lived life to the full. I think that has never been more relevant than today. We wanted to celebrate his life and designs, so we spent a long time hunting down the best examples for a collection in collaboration with Farfetch that will launch next month. It features pieces from the 1970s to the 1990s, including the Warhol and Punk collections.

What was the idea behind the shop?

The store is a place to see our discoveries first hand. Alongside our wonderful vintage clothing, there is always a drinks trolley groaning with sweeties and your tipple of choice.

What are your favourite Marylebone haunts?

I love Jikoni on Blandford Street for lunch or dinner; Pierre Marcolini for when the team needs a treat; Matches for its menswear; and The Conran Shop for anything for the home.

Where does contemporary clothing come in?

William Vintage is very much about mixing the contemporary with the modern as we don’t do ‘dress up’ vintage. I’m a fellow of the London College of Fashion, so I get to work with the next generation of designers.

Is vintage making a comeback on the red carpet?

Vintage fashion has already had many memorable red carpet moments. We dressed

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Which labels will be sought after in the future?

Multi-coloured Baroque printed cocktail dress, versace S/S 1991

Silk moire embellished zip-front jacket, versace S/S 1992

We always advise people to follow their hearts when buying a piece of clothing, irrespective of when it was made or by whom, but I’d say Bora Aksu, Simone Rocha and Mary Katrantzou will all become highly collectable.

What are your top tips for new vintage enthusiasts?

Always focus on condition. Never buy a piece of vintage that requires a new wardrobe or a new life, and lastly, start with something you know how to make work, for example the perfect LBD or weekend coat.

The William Vintage Gianni Versace Archive Collection will be available from 10 October, 2 Marylebone Street, W1G, williamvintage.com; farfetch.com

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ADV SANTI&SANTI - PHOTO P.BRAMATI

PLACE VENDOME COLLECTION 2017 – DESIGN: VANILLE, HANDKNOTTED IN WOOL AND SILK RELIEF - 400X400 CM

LU XU R Y CU S T O M M A D E R U G S D ES IG NED IN IT A L Y LONDON • 62-64 BROOK STREET, MAYFAIR • +44 (0) 20 3887 4589

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MILANO • VIA A. MANZONI, 45 • +39 02 8690570

MOSCOW | SHANGHAI | JEDDAH | RIYADH | LOS ANGELES | BAKU | TEHRAN | TOKYO | OSAKA

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COLLECTION

For its latest campaign, Middle Eastern fine jeweller W. Salamoon & Sons has enlisted the help of Natacha Tannous, the former executive director of Goldman Sachs.

Tannous showcases the brand’s new collection of glittering floral pieces, handcrafted in rose gold.

POA, wsalamoon.com

Ethical emeralds

Floral

fancies

William & Son has collaborated with Gemfields on MYA, its first haute joaillerie collection. Short for ‘Million Years Ago’, it honours the age and rarity of certain gemstones, and was created with responsibly sourced, vivid Zambian emeralds for a head-turning finish.

POA, williamandson.com

At one with nature Botanical-inspired shapes are cast in polished gold for Shaun Leane’s Entwined Petal collection of unconventional bridal jewellery.

Sculptural weddings bands are complemented by ear cuffs, stacking bangles and cocktail rings with avant-garde appeal.

From £900, shaunleane.com

Dior’s New Diamonds

Touch wood for luck Annoushka Ducas’ new collection is inspired by the centuries-old tradition of knocking on wood for luck. Wooden church spires, recalled from her childhood in Moscow, are reimagined as lucky charms in ebony and 18-carat gold. Each talismanic treasure twinkles with good fortune.

From £595, annoushka.com

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This month, wander down the garden path with Dior, whose new high jewellery collection takes its cue from the Palace of Versailles’s ornamental gardens. Encrusted with multi-coloured stones and sprinkled with diamonds, the pieces call to mind lush flower beds.

POA, dior.com

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Chaumet Est Une FĂŞte high jewellery collection, POA, chaumet.com

Saturday

Night Fever Embrace the high glamour and carefree elegance of the Studio 54 era words: Mhairi Graham

COLLECTION

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his season, fashion designers continue to mine the 1970s for inspiration – looking to the hedonistic, hazy time of disco, in all its glitzy exuberance and bohemian splendour.

High glamour prevails, as sequins, silver frills and dramatic flared silhouettes populate A/W17 collections from the likes of Saint Laurent, Balmain and Dolce & Gabbana.

A piece of statement jewellery is a versatile, modern way to effortlessly embrace the decadence of disco this season, be it by slipping on a swishing set of chandelier earrings, or updating eveningwear with a swinging pendant necklace or showpiece cuff. These sparkling power pieces create instant allure, whether paired with cashmere or a cocktail dress.

Step forward Jessica McCormack’s new collection, which takes its cue from the fabled glamour of the Studio 54 era. Coined Trip the Light Fantastic, wing-shaped ear climbers and lustrous fringes evoke a 1970s aesthetic – all crafted in polished yellow gold with glittering white diamonds.

“I wanted the collection to be high-glamour but with a subtle sensibility,” says McCormack. “Pieces that could easily work with your everyday wardrobe and which moved in harmony with the body, like they are dancing.”

Make like Elizabeth Taylor and decorate your décolletage with weighty sautoirs and neckclinching chokers, with options ranging from Chaumet’s dramatic new high jewellery collection to Messika’s multi-fringed showstopper, which offers all the sparkle of a disco ball.

Pippa Small’s Turquoise Mountain diffusion line glimmers with oversized gold cuffs, tasselled necklaces and cascading earrings that would be right at home on the dancefloor at Studio 54. “I grew up during that era and remember the glamour surrounding the fashions of the time,” says Small. “People like Paloma Picasso and Lauren Hutton, who were so timeless in their style. I love the bold statement that this sort of jewellery creates.”

Earrings are big this season, figuratively and literally, dropping and dangling from every nook and crook. Amrapali offers seductive, 1970s-inspired swirls while diamonds go disco at Diane Kordas, dotted on hoops and geometric

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designs. Continue the ear trend with Suzanne Kalan’s elegant drop designs, strung with shimmering chains.

Seventies stalwarts like Bulgari continue to hold court, sparking Saturday night fever with spectacular new Serpenti Seduttori jewels, set with vibrant pink tourmalines. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra collection, a hallmark of the 1970s, remains hugely popular and is available in a spectrum of shimmering hues.

Embrace bangles in abundance, stacked up the arm, or add punch with a single statement cuff. And what would a reference to the 1970s be without highlighting the era’s greatest enduring jewellery icon – the seminal Cartier Love Bracelet, created by designer and Studio 54 regular Aldo Cipullo in 1969? Nearly 50 years on, it remains a gleaming symbol of romance and timeless style.

See you on the dancefloor.

clockwise from top left: Earrings, Suzanne Kalan, £13,160, suzannekalan.com; Magic Alhambra EARRINGS, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, £5,950, vancleefarpels.com; Serpenti Seduttori necklace, Bulgari, £89,000, bulgari.com; Amulette de Cartier earrings, £7,750, cartier.co.uk; Trip the Light Fantastic earrings, Jessica McCormack, POA, jessicamccormack.com; Daria necklace and Thea bracelet, Messika, POA, messika.com; Trip the Light Fantastic ring, Jessica McCormack, POA, as before

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ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS

Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday destinations around the world, ski resorts in the Austrian, French and Swiss Alps, and the world’s greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art paper, measuring 97 x 65 cms.

Priced at £395 each.

Private commissions are also welcome.

Pullman Editions Ltd 94 Pimlico Road Chelsea London SW1W 8PL www.pullmaneditions.com Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 Email: georgina@pullmaneditions.com

Our central London gallery

All images and text copyright © Pullman Editions Ltd. 2017

View and buy online at w w w.pullmaneditions.com

Collection

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Only Watch, Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet’s Only Watch 2017 entrant is the brand’s first black ceramic perpetual calendar to feature a ceramic caseback, as well as a black oscillating weight visible through a sapphire display.

A striking ‘skylight’ blue dial contrasts with an attention-grabbing orange-tinted moon.

Estimate: £65,000-£98,000

Only Watch

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Reference 5208T-010, Patek Philippe Launched in 2011, Patek Philippe’s Reference 5208 combines three of the most intricate complications in watchmaking: a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a monopusher chronograph. The 5208T-010, created especially for the auction, is the first titanium version.

Estimate: £735,000-£890,000

BR-X1 R.S.17, Bell & Ross Bell & Ross and Renault Sport Formula One present the BR-X1 R.S.17, a skeletonised chronograph with ceramic pushers.

The winning bidder will be invited to the final Formula One race in Abu Dhabi, where they will meet the Renault drivers and take home the racing gloves worn by team driver Nico Hülkenberg.

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The biggest names in watchmaking unite to raise millions for muscular dystrophy words: Richard Brown

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very two years a collection of leading watch marques create one-off timepieces destined for Only Watch, a charitable initiative supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco to raise money for research into muscular dystrophy.

Since its first edition in 2005, the auction has raised more than £23 million, thanks, in no small part, to Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5016, which became the (then) most expensive wristwatch ever sold when it achieved £5.7 million at Only Watch 2015.

After an around-the-world tour, the 49 one-off models will be auctioned at Christie’s, Geneva, on 11 November. Expect the following lots to whip the gathered horophiles into a frenzy. onlywatch.com

Laureato 2017 Special Edition, Girard-Perregaux Launched in the 1970s, cult sports watch Laureato was revived in 2016 in a limited run before becoming a permanent collection in 2017. For Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux has issued a bronze-cased version.

Estimate: £12,000-£15,000

Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt, Hublot Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt is a transparent timepiece created with sapphire, one of the most difficult materials to machine. A counter at 9 o’clock bears the silhouette of Bolt performing his trademark victory sign. The 45mm piece will be auctioned alongside a second yellow-gold strap, as well as the chance to meet the fastest man on Earth.

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Worlds collide The Queen in an Adidas hoodie emblazoned with the Union Jack; Snow White listening to music on an Apple device. All that Central St Martins graduate Day-z needs is a pencil to set her imagination free. Imitate Modern, which moved to Shepherd Market earlier this year, will be showing her drawings as part of a bold contemporary group exhibition.

Re:Creations, 1 September – 8 October, 19 Shepherd Market, W1J, imitatemodern.com

Day-z , Charlie Bottle, 2013

Prize lots

Sold £2,288,750 E sti m at e : £ 2 5 0 , 0 0 0 – £ 3 5 0 , 0 0 0

A German parcel-gilt silver drinking cup in the form of the 66-point stag, circa 1696 “The outstanding quality and rarity of the cup, combined with its provenance as one of the five lots offered from the property of the Prince of Prussia, clearly made it very desirable to collectors and we were absolutely delighted to be able to bring such a remarkable object to the market.”

– Henry House, head of Furniture and Decorative Arts at Sotheby’s

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Sold £605,000 Estimate: £200,000 – £300,000

Freischwimmer #84, Wolfgang Tillmans, 2004 “This work set a new world record of £605,000 for the artist in our June sale.

Freischwimmer #84 belongs to an iconic and captivating series epitomising the 2000 Turner Prize winner’s pioneering and innovative style.”

– Dina Amin, European head of 20th Century and Contemporary Art at Phillips

A gold, boulder opal and diamond pendant necklace by Andrew Grima, 1972 Andrew Grima not only revolutionised the fine jewellery industry when he opened his 1966 Jermyn Street boutique, but he transformed the Mayfair shopping landscape too, with his avant-garde façade and cutting-edge interior design. Often referred to as the doyen of 20th-century British jewellery design, his fans included Barbara Hepworth and Jackie Kennedy Onassis. The sale of the largest private collection of his pieces will undoubtedly attract worldwide attention at Bonhams this month.

Fine Jewellery, 20 September, bonhams.com

sold, from Top: A German parcel-gilt silver drinking cup in the form of the 66 point stag, attributed to a model by Andreas Schlüter, Daniel Männlich, Berlin, circa 1696, 29 cm, 3577 grams, treasures sale, 5 July, sothebys.com, image courtesy of Sotheby’s; Freischwimmer #84, Wolfgang Tillmans, signed ‘Wolfgang Tillmans’ on a gallery label affixed to the reverse, c-print, in artist’s frame, 238.8 cm x 181 cm, executed in 2004, this work is number 1 from an edition of 1 plus 1 artist’s proof, 20th Century & Contemporary Art evening sale, 29 June, phillips.com, image courtesy of Phillips upcoming: A gold, boulder opal and diamond pendant necklace by Andrew Grima, 1972. Set with a large, irregular piece of boulder opal realised as mountainous landscape with textured gold ridges and scatterings of brilliant-cut diamond snow, suspended from a textured torque, bonhams.com, image courtesy of Bonhams

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Gilbert & George: The General Jungle or Carrying on Sculpting, 13 September – 18 November, Lévy Gorvy, 22 Old Bond Street, W1S, levygorvy.com

William Turnbull: New Worlds, Words, Signs, Offer Waterman, 29 September – 3 November, 17 St George Street, W1S, waterman.co.uk

A committee of 70 specialists have vetted the art and antiques that will land in the heart of Mayfair for the latest LAPADA fair – from steals for £500, to a George I giltwood secretaire cabinet attributed to a royal cabinetmaker and made for export to the Portuguese court (on show at Mackinnon Fine Furniture for more than £500,000). Around 100 exhibitors will be present and a series of talks will span the history of jewellery, ‘undressing antiques’ and world religion.

15-20 September, Berkeley Square, lapadalondon.com

Above: Maria Torroba, Golden Mary, 2017, courtesy of rebecca hossack gallery right, from top: gilbert & george, IS NOT ART THE ONLY HOPE FOR THE MAKING WAY FOR THE MODERN WORLD TO ENJOY THE SOPHISTICATION OF DECADENT LIVING EXPRESSION, 1971, image credit: Stephen White, ©2017 Gilbert & George; William Turnbull, Walking Figures, 1953; alfred kubin, Der Magier (The Magician), 1900 LEFt: Photo by Simon Bevan of Self-Portrait

by Sir Oswald Birley, oil on canvas

Alfred Kubin, 1900-1906: The Quickening and the Dead, 29 September – 3 November, Richard Nagy, 22 Old Bond Street, W1S, richardnagy.com

a few familiar faces Sir Oswald Birley was commissioned by royals, aristocrats and politicians alike in the early 1900s.

Several portraits hang in his grandson Robin’s 5 Hertford Street club, but this exhibition of 50, including Winston Churchill and Stanley Baldwin, also offers a glimpse into the interwar years.

Birley: Power and Beauty, 26 September – 10 October, Philip Mould,18-19 Pall Mall, SW1Y, philipmould.com

Photography by Levon Biss - www.microsculpture.net

Moooi presents a life extraordinary!

Moooi New York · 36 East 31st Street · New York, NY 10016 Moooi Amsterdam · Westerstraat 187 · 1015 MA Amsterdam Moooi London · 23 Great Titchfield Street · London, W1W 7PA Moooi Tokyo · Three F 6-11-1 Minami Aoyama · Minato-ku, Tokyo www.moooi.com

Movers& shakers Mario Testino OBE may be renowned for his fashion photography, but he has also spent a lifetime collecting and championing the work of new artists. This month a unique exhibition and auction at Sotheby’s showcases these pieces together for the first time, writes Kari Colmans

this page, clockwise from above: Richard Prince, Untitled (Girlfriend), 1993; Ugo Rondinone, No. 211 DREIZEHNTERSEPTEMBERZWEITAUSENDUNDNULL, 2000; Wolfgang Tillmans, Eclipse 2-3, 1998 oppostite page, clockwise from top left: Elizabeth Peyton, Pink (Spencer) (Three), 2002; Adriana Varej+úo, Blue Sauna, 2003; Georg Baselitz, Der Absprung (Remix), 2007

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ust as photography is a vehicle for me to live a new moment, to go to a new place, meet a new person and so on, art is a process of encounter and discovery,” says Mario Testino. “Art is never static.” As one of the industry’s most celebrated photographers, Testino’s name has become synonymous with today’s most influential stars thanks to his signature blend of portraiture and groundbreaking fashion tableaus.

But his judicious eye has naturally led him to look beyond the lens to the world of contemporary art around him.

From arriving in the Big Smoke as an unknown 22-year old, to travelling the world as the most sought-after photographer of his generation, Testino has always immersed himself in local art scenes, engaging with galleries and artists, and acquiring their work. Starting with photography – his first aquisition was a portrait of Vivien Leigh by the Surrealist photographer Angus McBean – he at first concentrated on early and mid-20th-century photography before moving on to more contemporary artists. “It was a great learning curve for me,” Testino says, “exploring how photography can be used in so many different ways.”

This month, Sotheby’s is collaborating with the photographer and philanthropist to present a unique exhibition and auction series of his collected works entitled Shake It Up, with proceeds going towards the not-for-profit Museo MATE (pronounced mah-teh) in Lima.

The centre was established by Testino in 2012 to promote and support Peruvian culture, as well as bring the country’s greatest talents to international attention.

“I have an amazing opportunity to help my country,” says Testino, about the auction. “I’ve been very successful in my work, thanks to my origin. My roots have been very key to who I have become.”

The curated group of paintings, photographs, works on paper and sculpture

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hail from some of the most important artists of the past two decades, as well as others still under the radar.

With more than 400 works on sale from 45 countries, the display, which will be accompanied by talks from friends and collaborators, isn’t just an auction for Testino.

“My buying was associated with making young artists stay alive almost,” he says, “because I was buying them quite early on and betting on people who had no proof. My money was going into things that could make it or couldn’t make it. But I was excited by the process, participating with the artists’ careers and development and growth. They also all surprised me with what they did.”

Unsurprisingly, portraiture is a recurring theme that runs throughout Testino’s Shake It Up collection. Highlights include work by the controvesrial German artist Georg Baselitz; American painter Elizabeth Peyton, who is known for her highly stylised portraits of close friends and family; and fellow photographer Richard Prince, whose Untitled (Girlfriend) (opposite page) is estimated to fetch between £250,000 and £350,000.

Indeed, the discovery of Prince and his development of ‘rephotography’ as a new art form marked a key early moment in Testino’s passion for collecting art. “The first piece of his that I bought was the biker girlfriend,” says Testino. “The idea of appropriation for me was a very new thing, because I’ve always been quite respectful about other people’s property. But what I’ve realised is that he made us look at things that we weren’t looking at properly

and challenged us to look at things differently.”

For Testino, the dialogue with fellow artists has often extended to working relationships.

Cecily Brown, Paul McCarthy, Urs Fischer, Vik Muniz and Albert Oehlen are all artists with whom he has collaborated and whose work features in the sale.

As well as raising money for MATE, and the chance to buy into the extensive collection, the display offers a glimpse into the creative mind and voracious eye of one of the industry’s greatest iconoclasts.

“Life is all about energy, letting the energy flow. In a way I’m shaking it up to give to others and to let this work also be appreciated by other people.”

With some of his most treasured personal pieces up for auction, Testino is only too happy to pass on his greatest finds. “I feel I have consumed them and I don’t want to hold onto things just because of their value or their historical value,” he says. “When you close a door, another door opens. I think it’s important to let go, to allow new things to come in.”

“Art is a process of encounter and discovery”

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Shake It Up: Works from the Mario Testino Collection exhibition, 8-13 September; followed by two auctions on 13 and 14 September, 34-35 New Bond Street, W1A, sothebys.com

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Venus in furs

Florentine designer Ermanno Scervino’s moody new campaign starring Italian supermodel Mariacarla Boscono was shot by none other than the cinematic photographer Peter Lindbergh. Scervino chose the banks of the river Seine as the setting: a fitting frame for delicate lace, frills and furs styled with Parisian nonchalance alongside masculine brogues, double breasted suits and oversized coats.

198-199 Sloane Street, SW1X, ermannoscervino.it and at Harrods

FASHION

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TO READ MORE ARTICLES LIKE THIS VISIT www.luxurylondon.co.uk

@luxurylondonofficial 

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FASHION

DOuble Denim Max Mara’s global fashion director Laura Lusuardi talks textiles What inspired your collaboration with The Woolmark Company collection?

Women these days like a relaxed, practical look, and denim has always provided a solution to this need. Denim, however, still remains too casual for Max Mara, so we needed to find a fabric that was easy to wear yet sophisticated at the same time. The Wool Denim line – 100 per cent Merino wool – combines these two characteristics perfectly.

Who best represents Max Mara?

A personal favourite is Nicole Kidman. She’s very versatile – she’s not only a great actress but also a family figure, taking care of her children.

From £305, maxmara.com

butterfly knot Bottega Veneta’s iconic yet understated knot clasp never gets old, which is why for A/W17 Tomas Maier has added a line of City Knot bags to the 50th anniversary collection (it now comes in an eye-catching ochre), and updated the minimal Olimpia style to feature the distinctive fastening.

City Knot bag, £15,715; Olimpia knot bag, £3,060, 14 Old Bond Street, W1S, bottegaveneta.com

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Carnival fever Just when we thought September couldn’t get any more abundant with activity in the city, Regent Street will once again host its own month-long fashion and design festival. There will be free talks by the likes of Bella Freud and photographer David Montgomery, and fashion illustrators will roam flagship stores such as Aquascutum sketching the West End’s best dressed.

1-30 September, regentstreetonline.com

new neighbours Those suffering from end of summer blues should be prescribed a trip to Zimmermann, Bruton Street’s most recent arrival. The Aussie brand’s first European outpost stocks its renowned ultra-flattering swimwear and delicate prints, as well as an eyewear collaboration with Cutler and Gross.

23a Bruton Street, W1J, zimmermannwear.com 51

FASHION

Ahead of the launch of her new book, English Myths and Legends, Alice Temperley MBE talks style icons, her love of Somerset and the changing face of the fashion industry

Alice’s Wonderland

words: Ellen Millard

opposite page, image credit: greg williams

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hen Alice Temperley recalls her childhood, spent growing up on a cider farm in Somerset, sequin embellishment is not what springs to mind. Muddy wellington boots, tractors, rolling hills in verdant hues and rows of trees laden with juicy apples, certainly – but not the evening gowns, often heavy with embroidery and floral motifs, for which the designer is known.

And yet, it’s to her home county that Temperley returns time and time again when creating a new collection, calling on the carefree spirit of the countryside for inspiration. The photo shoot for her A/W17 campaign even took place among the orchards of the cider farm itself.

“Growing up in the countryside has given me a sense of freedom and this is visible in my work,” the designer tells me. “I want things to be real, fanciful and romantic, but wearable, no matter how decadent the design is.”

For the uninitiated, Temperley is the fashion designer recognised for bringing 1970s bohemia into the 21st century, combining dainty floral prints and peasant blouse cuts with lace, ruffles and embellishment and, in doing so, creating a uniform that looks just as much at home at Glastonbury as it does on the red carpet. Her fashion label, Temperley London, was founded in 2000, just a year after she graduated from the Royal College of Art and, in the 17 years since, the brand’s upward trajectory has been rapid.

In 2002, Temperley Bridal was launched, and a year later the designer’s first fashion show was held in Notting Hill.

She was awarded an MBE in 2011 – “it was a real honour” – and in 2012 her high-street collaboration with John Lewis became the fastest selling range in the department store’s history. The brand now boasts five standalone stores (Notting Hill, Mayfair, Bicester, Dubai and Doha), and a fan base that includes the likes of HRH The Duchess of Cambridge, Penélope Cruz and Thandie Newton. She

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left and below, image credit: matilda temperley right, image credit: amelia allen

describes her customers as “independent, free-spirited, confident and feminine”.

As a student, the designer expected to “end up in interiors or photography”, but, when she regales me with the stories of her childhood, it would seem that fashion has always been her calling.

“I used to try on all my mother’s clothes and cut up her fabrics and shawls to make other things – it didn’t go down very well!” she jokes.

“I was always breaking her sewing machine and it was often hidden from me. My father wanted me to be a scientist, so I started by doing textiles and playing around with chemicals in the dye labs. I made clothes to fund my course and somehow ended up in fashion.”

The brand’s evolution is outlined in a new book, English Myths and Legends, which is a compilation of the inspirations and successes of the designer and her brand. She tells me that it

“I made clothes to fund my course and somehow ended up in fashion”

FASHION

have changed the way brands communicate with their customers, and the way customers interact with brands. It keeps moving faster, and it is imperative to focus and be consistent.”

Indeed, Temperley admits she was intrigued by the recent ‘see now, buy now’ trend – but, she explains, her work transcends fast fashion.

“It’s difficult for me to think about my collection as a product instantly available to buy, as a lot of work and craftsmanship goes into each piece,” she says.

“I experimented with ‘see now, buy now’ for my S/S17 show, allowing our customers to buy three looks directly from the runway. It was a success – however the detailing and artistry that go into each Temperley London piece makes it unique and timeless, something our customers think is worth waiting for.”

This immersive tome provides a window into Temperley’s world and inspirations

“illustrates what we stand for as Temperley London today, as an independently owned brand”, adding that it summarises all that her and the team have created over the past 16 years.

Spread across five chapters, the immersive tome also offers an insight into the highly skilled craftsmanship that is at the core of each collection, illustrated by editorial shoots and the label’s own campaign images. It’s a striking visual compendium of Temperley’s work, providing a window into her world and inspirations, which are drawn from “friends, music, films, markets and the countries I visit”.

For her A/W17 collection, Temperley looked at “the archetypal English woodland and the creatures that live within it”, focusing heavily, as always, on floral motifs, but also fruit and chickens inspired by Russian artist Andrey Remnev’s medieval paintings.

But for Temperley, the A/W17 collection is now old news; S/S18 will be unveiled at London Fashion Week in September. It has been nearly 15 years since she held her first show, debuting at a time when the British fashion scene was sparsely populated. Now, homegrown talent is swelling, with more Brits cropping up than you can keep count of. Seventeen years after she joined the fashion world, Temperley agrees that it has changed dramatically.

“It is even more fast paced and continually evolving. Technology now plays a big role in fashion,” she says. “E-commerce and social media

English Myths and Legends by Alice Temperley is out 5 September, £45, published by Rizzoli, rizzoliusa.com

All images courtesy of English Myths and Legends

by Alice Temperley

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Strike a pose in the homeland of haute couture with Parisian gowns straight from the catwalk Photographer G i l l e s - M a r i e Z i mm e r m a n n S t y l i sT m i k e a d l e r

Sa vo ir

r i fa e

Zuhair Murad, poa, zuhairmurad.com

THIS PAGE Jean Paul Gaultier, POA, JeanPaulGaultier.com OPPOSITE PAGE Stephane rolland, POA, stephanerolland.com

Every woman is a

princess

- christian dior

christian dior, POA, dior.com

THIS PAGE Alexandre Vauthier, POA, Alexandrevauthier.com OPPOSITE PAGE Zuhair Murad, POA, as before PHOTOGRAPHEr Gilles-Marie Zimmermann at Angela de Bona stylist Mike Adler at Angela de Bona MODEL Catrinel Marlon at Next Model Management Photography ASSISTANT Sophie Lemedioni stylist Assistant Sara Mtimet HAIR Tie Toyama at Calliste agency Paris MAKE-UP Natsuki Oneyama Post Production Nadia Selander location Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris

FASHION

Dressed to

Kill

Mr Blair Getz Mezibov for MRPORTER.COM

on the run

B e l staf f x S OP H N ET, £ 2 2 5 , b e l s taff. co.uk

Ad id as or igi n al s x H e n ry Pool e , £ 1 5 0 , s i ze .c o . u k

iN Celebration of the muchanticipated film, Kingsman: The Golden Circle, released in September, Mr Porter has once again teamed up with director Matthew Vaughn and costume designer Arianne Phillips to create a second Costume to Collection line. In the sequel, the secret service team that operates out of a tailor’s shop on Savile Row forms a U.S. alliance: cue Americana-inspired pieces such as western jackets and Stetson hats, alongside collaborations with familiar Mayfair-based brands like Turnbull & Asser and Swaine Adeney Brigg.

From £50, mrporter.com

J .M . W e st on , £ 4 3 0 , j mw e s ton. f r

All bases covered international man of missoni Missoni has unveiled its first fragrance for men in two decades – and it is worth the wait. The definitive scent, simply called Missoni Parfum Pour Homme, exudes green lemon and ginger notes, with a sensuous woody drydown of oakwood, birch and musk, arousing an image of an enticing and creative Missoni man who is as stylish as the weighty, petrol-hued glass bottle itself. £62 for 100ml, available at Harrods and missoni.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Trunk Clothiers founder Mats Klingberg has already done the hard work for us by gathering the finest pieces by the coolest menswear labels in his Marylebone shops. Now he has launched Trunk’s first own brand: a range of staple garms that will become the bones of your wardrobe, all year round.

From £95, 8 Chiltern Street, W1U, trunkclothiers.com 65

FASHION

Sewing new seeds

What lies in the future of Mayfair’s most sartorial street?

Author James Sherwood reflects on Savile Row’s inimitable combination of style and substance

I

n the seven years since Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke was first published, the traditional bastions of formal dress have come under unprecedented attack. Hedge fund alphas abandoned the tie long before the House of Commons did in June this year. Britain’s young male royals have taken a far more self-consciously casual approach to public office. In the new world order, the billionaire masters of the universe who were once Savile Row stalwarts are now tech gurus such as Mark Zuckerberg, wearing grey T-shirts rather than chalk stripe suits.

Savile Row’s historic tailoring firms have survived world wars, recessions and revolutions – both industrial and technological.

They negotiated the 1960s Youthquake, Giorgio Armani’s 1980s soft tailoring and the dress down movement of the 1990s. But what, one wonders, will Henry Poole & Co, Gieves & Hawkes or Anderson & Sheppard make of the gender neutral lobby, mankles, top knots and tattoos that the Victorians would have paid a shilling to see at the circus?

The answer is to adapt or die and, of course, take the long view that only companies that were trading during the Napoleonic Wars have the privilege of doing. In the same month that Henry Poole & Co – established in 1806 – celebrated chairman Angus Cundey’s 80th birthday, it produced two limited edition NMD trainers in

Savile Row’s historic tailoring firms must adapt or die, and take the long view

from top: house check clock, image courtesy of huntsman; dege & skinner bentley car coat opposite: timothy everest dinner suit, image courtesy of Munster/The Rake, 2009

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collaboration with Adidas Originals. One was in the company’s Churchill chalk stripe; the other in midnight blue barathea, echoing the first dinner jacket cut in 1865 for the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII). The first release of the trainers sold out within a week – making Henry Poole something of a daddy cool.

The Row is an attractive proposition for cool brands precisely because the craft of hand measuring, cutting, fitting and finishing combines integrity, history and the ultimate luxury. There is also the fact that the quality of tailoring on Savile Row has never been better. In the early 1900s, Poole had the capacity to produce 600 garments a week. Today, the houses average just over 1,000 bespoke suits per year, passing through seven pairs of skilled hands over a ten-week period. The apprenticeship scheme put in place by the Savile Row Bespoke Association has trained more than 200 pairs of hands, of which 60 cutters and tailors are now employed. This earns respect from the millennial generation.

This injection of young blood in the workshops and showrooms on the Row has been the single biggest change since Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke was published.

Huntsman and Anderson & Sheppard in particular have trained a generation of hipsters who are arguably their own best advertisements. The hipster movement has had a profound and lasting influence on menswear that plays entirely to Savile Row’s strengths. The skinny jean and tailored jacket are the closest the fashionable male has since come to

clockwise from left: hawkes & co. on savile row in the 1940s, image courtesy of Gieves & Hawkes archive; queen’s royal lancers mess dress tunic, dege & Skinner, image courtesy of Guy Hills, 2010; Anderson & Sheppard check jacket; adidas x henry poole; bespoke suit, image courtesy of Henry Poole & Co archive

The houses average just over 1,000 bespoke suits a year

the silhouette dictated by George ‘Beau’ Brummell at the turn of the 19th century.

Breeches-tight trousers flatter a gym-toned body just as they did the equestrian figure during the Regency era.

Hipsters have also been responsible for the great tweed revival in urban fashion, led in some respects by Dashing Tweeds, the Tweed Run and The Chap – but actually owned by Savile Row, whose estate checks were woven for the grouse moors, woodlands and deer parks of their aristocratic customers. In this respect the bespoke

FASHION

tailors were the founders of sportswear: riding, shooting, winter sports and motoring.

This is the reason that companies such as Bentley, Converse, Adidas, Rolex and Barbour have chosen to collaborate on limited editions with tailors including Dege & Skinner and Norton & Sons.

Although the historic houses may not agree, Savile Row tailoring is kept relevant by the firework bespoke tailors. These independent new names above shop doors speak to a new generation. Tommy Nutter led the Peacock Revolution in the 1970s, while Timothy Everest, Richard James and Ozwald Boateng – the Cool Britannia New Establishment tailors – put bespoke on the catwalks in the 1990s.

Since 2010, independents operating off-Row have made the trade a city-wide concern again: names such as Kathryn Sargent, Thom Sweeney, Steven Hitchcock, Byrne & Burge, Henry Herbert and Connock & Lockie. A new generation having faith in an ancient trade is the highest compliment.

Ironically, as dress codes break down and seemingly anything goes, the style of Savile Row will become increasingly trusted as a place of greater authenticity. But what will secure its future is the fact that handmade clothing executed to the precise requirements of the customer is the epitome of male elegance.

The balance of orders may change from predominantly city suits to separates, cocktail dress and weekend tailoring, but men with style and substance will inevitably find their way to Savile Row’s bespoke tailors for the London Cut.

The Row is kept relevant by firework bespoke tailors

James Sherwood is the author of Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke. The second edition is available now, £29.95, thameshudson.co.uk

clockwise from top: henry poole & Co’s head of tailoring, working on a full state footman’s coat, image courtesy of Henry Poole & Co archive; hunting pinks, image courtesy of Huntsman archive; savile row, image courtesy of Guy Hills/ Huntsman, 2008; bespoke suit, image courtesy of Guy Hills/Hunstman, 2009; timothy everest bespoke black tie, image courtesy of Munster/The Rake, 2009; tailors at henry Poole & co’s livery department, image courtesy of Henry Poole & Co archive

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City Magazine_Demetra.indd 1

26/04/17 11:48

INTERIORS

Light as a feather

Moooi is set to transform its London showroom into an immersive and wondrous paradise during London Design Festival (16-24 September). A sparkling installation of Arihiro Miyake’s Coppélia lights will welcome visitors upon arrival. Inside, they will be invited to take a magnified photograph of their iris, taking cue from Marcel Wanders’ opticalinspired rug that will be on display.

Meanwhile, Umut Yamac’s spellbinding Perch collection will illuminate the space: a flock of sculptural paper and brass light fittings that resemble birds, which gently sway when blown or tapped.

23 Great Titchfield Street, W1W, moooi.com

Image courtesy of Moooi

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L O N D O N 2 0 G R A F T O N S T R E E T U K . H O L LY H U N T. C O M

DESIGN BY TRISTAN AUER, MAISON&OBJET DESIGNER OF THE YEAR

INTERIORS

eclectic feel You may recognise the name of this new online curiosity shop from its recent pop-up launch at Maison Assouline on Piccadilly. Founders of Artemest, Ippolita Rostagno and Marco Credendino, curate the best of Italian craftsmanship, making it (almost too) easy for us to collect – and in many cases customise – extraordinary artisanal furniture, gifts and treasures for the home. artemest.com

PAPER TRAIL For its debut wall covering collection launching at Decorex this month, the Paint & Paper Library chose modern mural artist Hugo Dalton to design eight prints. The collaboration – inspired by Dalton’s trip to Tresco island in Cornwall – came about because he already used the company’s paint to create his minimal wall paintings.

Available from October, from £90, paintandpaperlibrary.com

A touch of Glass

IN excess

Moser takes us on a journey through its archives in its 160th anniversary collection.

The glasswork is inspired by design processes that have been handed down from generation to generation, with each piece representing a technique that was once used at a certain time by Moser’s preceding designers.

From £150, Thomas Goode, 19 South Audley Street, W1K, thomasgoode.com

Gucci Décor, Alessandro Michele’s new line of interior accessories, is as fabulously over-the-top as you would expect. Clash loud silk wallpaper with velvet tasselled cushions and screens adorned with blooming geometric garden prints to capture the creative director’s coveted whimsical look.

From £150, 34 Old Bond Street, W1S, gucci.com

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W

Meet the

maker John Makepeace: Officer of the British Empire, professor, nurturer of new talent, master of design and disrupter of the status quo.

Hannah Lemon explores the inspirational furniture maker’s legacy 40 years on

andering around the Design Museum, you begin to get an idea of the revolutionary way designers shape the way we live. How the dining table was transformed into a curved piece of plywood, or how the humble wooden rocking chair ended up as a cantilevered piece of plastic.

Much of this is due to John Makepeace OBE. The unnassuming 78-year-old furniture maker greets me in a quiet room on the second floor with a cheery smile and light handshake, a vibrant magenta shirt the only hint to the rather unorthodox approach he has to life in general.

Born in Solihull in 1939, Makepeace’s fascination with carpentry began at an early age, much to the surprise of his family. “I found that because I was the youngest – the last of five children – I was quite solitary. I amused myself with all sorts of woodworking, misusing the tools that were there. Eventually I was given a chisel and it progressed from there.”

Makepeace enrolled in an apprenticeship with Dorset-based furniture designer Keith Cooper, earning 15p an hour, alongside studying a distance learning programme in teaching that introduced him to the philosophy and theory behind design.

“It was a really vital moment. I was obviously keen and worked quite hard in the daytime,” he recalls, “and then in the evenings and weekends I studied this course and learnt the curriculum.”

Trips abroad to Nigeria, Morroco and Scandinavia provided further education to help focus his eye on form. “I would say what changed things more than any other visit was going to Denmark as a teenager,” says Makepeace, “and actually realising that what they were making at that time was the best. I saw individually made items for the first time in my life. They understood the body, and their shapes were responsive to that.”

Makepeace’s first port of call when starting out on his own was to head for retailers. He arranged a meeting with a furniture buyer at Heal’s, but instead of showing a portfolio of his work, Makepeace brought in a table he had made.

While he waited for his appointment, customers in the store began to marvel at the simple design – eight pieces of wood screwed together with a glass top that could be dissembled for ease of transportation. Heal’s ordered six immediately.

INTERIORS

“A fortnight later they ordered another six,” marvels Makepeace.

“The numbers went up and up, and eventually the volume was greater than we could cope with, and we started manufacturing them in what was then Yugoslavia.”

Other retailers followed suit, such as Habitat and Liberty, but department stores weren’t the end game. Makepeace won contracts for universities, offices and eventually individuals who wanted to order one-of-a-kind pieces.

This success led him to be the only furniture maker commissioned by the Carpenters’ Company guild, for which he crafted a threelegged chair. “The back leg gives you lumbar support, which is so crucial and so often missing,” he explains. “The construction is quite sophisticated: the arms have multiple layers that bend and twist and become part of the back.”

Makepeace was awarded an OBE by Her Majesty the Queen in 1988 in recognition for his work at Parnham College in Dorset (and later Hooke Park campus), which he founded 40 years ago to provide integrated courses in design and management for aspiring furniture makers (alumni include the likes of David Linley). “It’s quite an interesting situation: having a concept, realising it, and then 40 years later people saying how it has affected their lives,” he says.

The college once received the Duke of Edinburgh for an offical visit and Makepeace recalls a dinner with His Royal Highness the Prince, dropping into conversation how much he would love to design something for Buckingham Palace. Philip suggested he copy one of the original tables in the household, but Makepeace

declined, saying he could only do a contemporary work. “One has to have principles,” smiles Makepeace on turning down royalty. “Life is too short.”

Design for Makepeace is a “human language”, guiding the way people react to one another. He experiments with this in the 18th-century home he shares with his wife Jennie in Dorset. “When we sit people down for dinner, we have 12 different chairs around the table so people have already made some sort of selection about which chair they want to sit in.”

His home is also an opportunity for him to continue supporting a new generation of designers through commissions – young silversmiths, goldsmiths and blacksmiths have

Clockwise from top left: the master carpenter’s chair made for the carpenters’ company; Forum Table and Chairs for the Directors of Boots plc; Millennium Chair, Celebrating the 20th century; parnham college; mulberry table

“One has to have principles. Life is too short”

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

created everything from the gates of his home to a vase for his table. It is so impactful that the house and garden have been made open to the public.

And if a student were to leave his college with only one lesson learnt, what would that to be? “Do simple things well. It’s a good idea to start with doing very basic things perfectly, because that becomes a platform for constant grace.”

To find out more about the Parnham College design legacy, purchase the limited-edition book Beyond Parnham out this month, £35, beyondparnham.com

75

Weaving

a mark Rug specialist Sahrai opened its doors on Brook Street this year, ready to bring artistic inspiration to Mayfair’s interiors. Lily Devan delves into the company’s centuries-old heritage

W

alking into Sahrai’s showroom, where Brook Street meets Davies Street, is like entering an art gallery: rugs are hung from the walls and displayed in the windows like paintings. Naturally, they are also on the floor, although instinct is to hop around the edge rather than tread over the middle (unavoidable, as it turns out).

Sahrai is a centuries-old, family-run carpet company, directed by siblings Rana and Ramine Sahrai. Its headquarters are in Milan, but “over the past decades, we’ve been building relationships with some of the most prestigious interior designers in London”, says Ramine. And so, earlier this year, doors were opened in Mayfair, inviting the area’s international clientele to discover the firm’s collections (from Taj Mahal to Place Vendôme, see overleaf).

Each rug is created in Sahrai’s private ateliers by craftsmen who go through more than 100 steps: from material and colour selection, spinning wool to working

“We have combined our expertise in oriental carpet weaving with Western interiors”

from top: Gianfranco Ferrè Collection, Obsidian, £22,500; rana and ramine sahrai opposite: Gianfranco Ferrè Collection, Kharma, £22,500

INTERIORS

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carpe t, l e f t oak, £1 4 , 5 8 0 c arpe t, top leo par d, £ 1 2 , 0 0 0

car p e t, l e f t a r a d, £ 7 5 , 6 0 0 car p e t, t o p s ha h l a , £ 5 5 , 0 0 0

the Noor collection

the parsa collection

These contemporary handmade rugs are designed in Italy.

This chic collection runs the gamut of patterns: from wildlife (a pair of yellow panther’s eyes emerging from a black background; zebras; owls) to the geometric (stars, stripes) and faded damask.

From £9,000

As Sahrai describes, hand-knotted Parsa rugs bring Persian tradition into the modern age, celebrating the company’s roots and the beauty of antiquity. Sahrai’s design studio has revisited classic Persian patterns: delicate motifs in mottled pastel colours.

From £17,000

carpet, l e f t vani lle , £ 3 0 , 0 0 0 carpet, top mar ie ant oinette , £27,000

car p e t, l e f t an d t o p ga r gy t ur q uo ise , £19,200

the place vendÔme collection

the taj mahal collection

There are plenty of cream and gold – practically gilded – designs in this haute couture French selection, inspired by Aubusson and Savonnerie designs. Sometimes Art Noveau, sometimes Baroque, this collection sits well in both modern and traditionalist interiors.

From £11,250

Indian glamour comes in the form of large rectangular designs and often bold colours. This collection takes its cues from the maharajas’ ancient palaces. Each piece is created following traditional methods, knotted by hand in high quality wool and silk combinations.

From £15,000

INTERIORS

clockwise from left: parsa collection, yass, £145,000; sparkles collection, raining lights, £28,500; the brook street showroom

on the warp and the weft. Hand-knotting a rug can take from four to more than 36 months, depending on its size and the density of the knots. “That’s why they are considered real works of art,” say Ramine and Rana. The atelier uses a variety of Italian silks, velvets, cottons, linens and jacquard patterns.

Sahrai’s expertise dates back to 1830 in Tehran, when the family’s forebears searched Persia and the Caucasus for carpets to sell at the old bazaars.

Nearly two centuries later, the company offers contemporary collections that are designed in Italy, and custom-made rugs to suit each client’s desired shape, dimension, texture and colour scheme. The process might begin with a visit to the Mayfair showroom to discuss a project, and take inspiration from the many rolls of carpet hidden just out of view.

“Our aim is to interpret the client’s request into the rugs of their dreams, often going beyond expectation,” says Ramine.

“Over the past two decades we have combined our expertise in oriental carpet weaving with the sophisticated design and originality of Western interiors, pushing the boundaries between classical and contemporary.”

One of the company’s most novel achievements is Sparkles, a collection created with Swarovski crystals embedded into the top layer of its rugs. The stones create starry skies on dark or dusky backgrounds, or when set in lines, almost resemble a twinkling cityscape at night.

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Elsewhere, this year’s collections include a series of rugs with animal prints and exotic leaves from tropical rainforests. “Lately our attention has been directed towards nature and the wonders of the natural world,” says Rana. “Our 2017 collections relate to the way surfaces react to the passage of time,” she continues, referring to a texture that mimics the effect of oxidation.

On 19 September, in time for London Design Festival, Sahrai will unveil Cave, a collection by Italian designer Marco Piva.

Cave will draw on marble: its grain and colour, translated into woven form.

Sahrai’s creations can be found in private homes the world over, as well as a number of prestigious locales: the royal box at the Scala Opera House, the Ritz Paris, Palazzo Fendi, Japan’s Imperial Palace and the Royal Palace of Kuwait among them. Head to Brook Street, and follow the lead of emirs and emperors.

“Our aim is to interpret the client’s request into the rug of their dreams, beyond expectation”

62-64 Brook Street, W1K, sahrai.com

79

In with the

new

Sensuel, £550 for 80ml, lalique, Harrods.com

white amber, from £320 for 75ml, creed, creedfragrances.co.uk

September fashion weeks might be upon us, but we’re busy updating our fragrance wardrobe first, with autumnal notes of wild fig, sandalwood and blackcurrant

goldea the roman night, £81 for 75ml, Bulgari, selfridges.com

basilico & Fellini, £155 for 100ml, vilhelm parfumerie, libertylondon.com

credit xxxxxx xxxX XXXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXX

twilly d’Hermès, from £47 for 30ml, Hermès, hermes.com English Oak & redcurrant, from £44 for 30ml, jo malone london, jomalone.co.uk

“A woman’s

perfume tells more about her than her

velvet haze, £142 for 100ml, byredo, libertylondon.com

handwriting” – Christian Dior the bewitching yasmine, £178 for 75ml, penhaligon’s, penhaligons.com

health & beauty

SPA R EV I E W

Stop the clock Hannah Lemon checks in to The Beaumont hotel’s serene spa to switch off for the afternoon with an epic hammam, massage and Pai facial

O

nce a zealous critic of mobile phones and the people who addictively use them, I have since become permanently attached to mine. It is my alarm, my newspaper, my calendar, my email inbox; and it’s rare to find my ear, hand or eye not permanently attached to the device.

So on arrival at The Beaumont hotel’s spa, I feel like a limpet pulled from its rock. I’ve booked in for the Total Relaxation package that takes two hours and 45 minutes to complete – and my phone will be off for the duration. Who knows how the telecoms and web realm might cope without me?

Eli, my delightfully cheery and discreet therapist for the afternoon guides me to the changing room, where a locker neatly contains all the necessities I need for the afternoon (toothbrush, paper pants and bra, cotton buds). I swap my office outfit for a white towel robe and slippers, and lock up my phone with one final sigh.

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The noise of my alarm and the ping of emails is replaced with the soothing trickle of water. My first half an hour is spent being scrubbed hammam-style, with black soap and a body buffer. It’s almost as if I can see the city toxins draining down the sink. Once the cathartic process of being washed like a small child is over, I am left lathered in clay and wrapped in towels so any lost minerals can soak back into the skin.

Ten minutes later as Eli returns, I seem to have nodded off – it turns out I’m rather good at this relaxing malarkey and my buffered, oily limbs are in sure agreement.

Up next is an hour-long full body massage with oils, which slowly and

seductively loosen the tension in my shoulders, legs and lower back. As I sink further and further into the bed, I realise how much I’m enjoying this digital detox.

The final part to this epic treatment journey is the Pai facial, from a brand that tailors its products to sensitive and unpredictable skin. Plant-derived cleansers, oils, eye creams and moisturisers are applied to help plump up my skin.

While my now lolling head is soothed by the soft caresses of fingertips, I can smell the gentle scent of camomile and rosehip, as well as the comforting warmth of dates wafting under my nose.

As the treatment ends, and Eli gives my scalp one last invigorating rub, I realise the true meaning of ‘switching off’ – it’s the switching back on I’ll now have trouble with.

Total Relaxation, £240, The Beaumont Spa, Brown Hart Gardens, W1K, thebeaumont.com

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Laura Burdese

A new

scentsation As luxury lifestyle and fragrance house Acqua di Parma launches its latest cologne, CEO Laura Burdese talks about bottling Italian scents words: Charlotte Phillips

T

he words Acqua di Parma are synonymous with la dolce vita, bringing to mind lazy, hedonistic days spent sipping Aperol spritz on the Amalfi coast or shopping in Portofino.

The house has been bottling quintessential Italian fragrances since 1916. Scents evoke memories and moods – and Acqua di Parma has hit some enduring notes over the course of the past century – from the inaugural light and fresh Colonia collection, to the more recent Blu Mediterraneo range, which calls to mind a Vilebrequin-clad, European Adonis on a Vespa.

Much of Acqua di Parma’s current success is down to the formidable business savvy of Laura Burdese, the brand’s CEO. A native Italian, Burdese worked at L’Oréal and Calvin Klein Watches & Jewelry before joining Acqua di Parma back in October of last year.

“There have been dramatic changes in luxury fragrance,” Burdese says, “these include digital, e-commerce and distribution developments, but the most important shift is customer behaviour. It’s positive for us because it’s the niche brands that are booming, not the mass market – the brands with a story to tell.”

Fittingly, for the first time, the new Acqua di Parma campaign depicts a real family, starring British model Will Chalker. It uses “emotional storytelling”, says Burdese, as “that’s what the brand was missing”.

The campaign launches the latest men’s fragrance, Colonia Pura, which is full of mineral notes, presented in a minimalist bottle. It stays true to the brand’s origins – it smells of citrus and summer – but is more youthful than some of its other fragrances.

The brand’s core demographic is summed up with a nifty acronym: “HENRY: high-earning, not rich yet,” Burdese says – a term also used to refer to Obama voters during his first presidential campaign.

The Blu Mediterraneo range calls to mind a Vilebrequin-clad Adonis on a Vespa

HEALTH & BEAUTY

“Acqua di Parma is exclusive. We don’t follow trends: we are refined and understated, and the people who buy us have a cultured understanding of fragrance.” Mr Acqua di Parma (60 per cent of the brand’s customers are male), sounds like quite the catch: between 35 to 45 years old, with a penchant for “beautiful things”. He “doesn’t buy brands”, but “meaningful items that resonate,” she says. “Acqua di Parma has always had this sense of being unmarketed – people have to hear about it by word of mouth.”

Burdese continues: “Scent expresses your personality and unlocks a window into a favourite time or memory.

It’s the final touch to your outfit – it makes you feel complete and lets your essence shine through.” Her fragrance of choice depends on the season, but in the summer she gravitates towards the more masculine Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi.

All Acqua di Parma products are handmade in Italy, something that Burdese is particularly proud of. Each fragrance takes around two years to perfect, and everything down to the trademark bright yellow packaging – “the colour of sunshine” – is carefully crafted. The logos on each bottle are slightly different; each is made by hand, so the

All images courtesy of: Acqua di Parma

spacing is not as perfect as it would be if they were churned out by a machine.

All of these touches are evidently resonating in the UK, which is Acqua di Parma’s second biggest market after Italy. Next, the brand will spread its scent to China, and hopes to double turnover by 2020 in the process.

It’s a lofty aim – but as Burdese says it in her charming Italian accent, it feels entirely possible. And as I ponder this, in grey and dreary London, there’s only one thing for it – a spritz of Colonia Pura, to transport me straight to the Italian Riviera.

Colonia Pura Eau de Cologne, £66 for 50ml, acquadiparma.com

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le tour de

c o c k ta i l

france

hour

no, we’re not talking about the famous cycling race, we’re talking about Avenue’s five-course tasting menu of the same name. For one night only, journey through Gascony or Bordeaux as head sommelier Agustin Trapero pairs the Americaninspired restaurant’s dishes with France’s finest vintages.

13 September, 7pm, £75, 7-9 St James’s Street, SW1A, avenue-restaurant.co.uk

makes scents Sip, don’t spritz Creed’s latest fragrance at 34 Mayfair, with the Virgin Island Paradise cocktail. £14, until 10 September, 34 Grosvenor Square, W1K, 34-restaurant.co.uk

go ape Save the gorilla one drink at a time with the Mnky Hse Gorilla Love cocktail; £1 of each purchase goes to animal charity The Aspinall Foundation. £14, 10 Dover Street, W1S, mnky-hse.com

HOT STUFF Nobody does a curry better than Mayfair’s staple Indian restaurant Chutney Mary.

Specialising in street food, the chefs are trained in the region of their Indian birthplace to produce authentic native dishes. Golden fried Bay of Bengal prawns and Goa crab cakes, followed by butter chicken methi masala and Bijapur lamb curry make for the perfect business lunch.

Set lunch, £28 for two courses or £32 for three, 73 St James’s Street, SW1A, chutneymary.com

In the grip of the grape Fine wine and good company always result in an evening well spent, so grab five of your friends and head on down to Ormer at Flemings Mayfair.

The restaurant, masterminded by the Michelin-starred chef Shaun Rankin, reveals its refurbished cellar this

month, The Barrel Room, which has been stocking bottles since 1851.

Choose from four group packages to celebrate either English, Spanish, Italian or world-famous collections.

From £450, 7-12 Half Moon Street, W1J, flemings-mayfair.co.uk

HEALTH & BEAUTY

“Acqua di Parma is exclusive. We don’t follow trends: we are refined and understated, and the people who buy us have a cultured understanding of fragrance.” Mr Acqua di Parma (60 per cent of the brand’s customers are male), sounds like quite the catch: between 35 to 45 years old, with a penchant for “beautiful things”. He “doesn’t buy brands”, but “meaningful items that resonate,” she says. “Acqua di Parma has always had this sense of being unmarketed – people have to hear about it by word of mouth.”

Burdese continues: “Scent expresses your personality and unlocks a window into a favourite time or memory.

It’s the final touch to your outfit – it makes you feel complete and lets your essence shine through.” Her fragrance of choice depends on the season, but in the summer she gravitates towards the more masculine Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi.

All Acqua di Parma products are handmade in Italy, something that Burdese is particularly proud of. Each fragrance takes around two years to perfect, and everything down to the trademark bright yellow packaging – “the colour of sunshine” – is carefully crafted. The logos on each bottle are slightly different; each is made by hand, so the

All images courtesy of: Acqua di Parma

spacing is not as perfect as it would be if they were churned out by a machine.

All of these touches are evidently resonating in the UK, which is Acqua di Parma’s second biggest market after Italy. Next, the brand will spread its scent to China, and hopes to double turnover by 2020 in the process.

It’s a lofty aim – but as Burdese says it in her charming Italian accent, it feels entirely possible. And as I ponder this, in grey and dreary London, there’s only one thing for it – a spritz of Colonia Pura, to transport me straight to the Italian Riviera.

Colonia Pura Eau de Cologne, £66 for 50ml, acquadiparma.com

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Beauty confidential

NO.6 MORTIMER

From make-up apps to pop-up beauty services, EstÊe Lauder Companies’ Jo Dancey talks to Lauren Romano about the changing face of the beauty industry and feeling at home in Fitzrovia

HEALTH & BEAUTY

L

ast February, Estée Lauder Companies moved into its new Fitzrovia headquarters, One Fitzroy. The palatial 144,000 square foot office, which houses 500 staff from five different former locations over its eight floors, comes complete with an in-house blow-dry bar, nail salon, yoga and Pilates studio and an impressive roof terrace, where the workforce – 90 per cent of whom are women – have brainstorming sessions over flat whites.

As offices go, it’s certainly an Jo Dancey enviable place to work, but One Fitzroy is far from a vanity project. Every corner of the building has been carefully designed to respond to the changing way the company’s workforce actually use the space, the thinking being that a more flexible working environment will increase productivity, creativity and communication. Large, open-plan workspaces where employees can hot-desk to their heart’s content enable cross-pollination and collaboration between the 25 different brands that fall under the Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) umbrella, from Smashbox and Bobbi Brown to Jo Malone and Clinique.

There’s a state-of-the-art training suite where the retail staff (all 8,500 of them) can learn the ropes and get to grips with new products, as well as zones dedicated to each brand. Below the office, on street level, the Smashbox concept store (the first of its kind) has a studio area for shoots and demonstrations. It sits next door to a dedicated pop-up retail space, No.6 Mortimer – more on that later.

Back inside, up on the design floor sits Jo Dancey, vice president for retail for the UK and Ireland, who was instrumental in ELC’s relocation to Fitzrovia. “One of the things that appealed to us when we chose this location was the amazing vibe. I don’t think there’s an international cuisine that you can’t find in

Fitzrovia,” she says as we survey the street scene – a mixture of residential flats and office blocks – from her corner office window.

Dancey has been with ELC for 18 years, and works with its diverse portfolio to deliver location specific retail concepts on a brand by brand basis. “I’m responsible for all the retail technology that we have in our spaces, but also retail innovation,” she elaborates. “The ‘clicks’ world is growing. It’s a significant part of any business now, but I don’t think it’s right to lose sight of the fact that in the UK, the majority of transactions are still done in a bricks and mortar store, it’s just a matter of looking at the relevant format to have in that particular space for that brand.”

This is where pop-ups come in. The temporary locations, which are often timed to coincide with holidays and festivals, enable brands to target specific consumers in specific locations, in a reinvention of the traditional retail space.

“Approximately 60 per cent of British adults now like a brand to tell its story visually, and we have 32 platforms across our portfolio that speak to that. The consumer is looking for a deeper authenticity than they have ever had before – they want to be part of the conversation.”

They are also looking for convenience, something Dancey brands “the new luxury”.

“In the UK, the majority of transactions are still done in a bricks and mortar store”

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HEALTH & BEAUTY

Convenience isn’t just a question of online shopping, she insists, it’s about the overall in-store experience. With this in mind, the majority of Estée Lauder brands now offer appointment booking for anything from facials to make-up tutorials. “It’s about producing that convenience but wrapping it in an experience.”

And one of the most important testing grounds to trial ELC’s experience-driven concepts is found downstairs at No.6 Mortimer. The pop-up retail space, which opened last year as a live lab offering a different retail experience, has been designed to resemble a living room rather than your typical shop floor. It provided the backdrop for a festive gifting pop-up last year, which included screenprinting sessions, floristry demonstrations, wreath-making workshops and calligraphy classes.

“The whole idea was about stepping into the world of slow shopping because Christmas can be frantic and this offered an alternative space in which to do that,” Dancey says.

For its latest instalment, No.6 Mortimer has taken the ‘convenience is the new luxury’ idea further by teaming up with digital beauty concierge Ruuby to offer a range of express treatments.

“The Ruuby concept is about bringing beauty to your home – or the home concept that we’ve created here,” Dancey says. Until 31 October, shoppers can book express manicures and pedicures, brow tints by Bobbi Brown, MAC eyelash extensions, Darphin facials and Bumble and Bumble blow drys and braids online or via the Ruuby app.

But what does the future of retail hold outside of the pop-up realm? Dancey believes that the trend for personalisation will deepen and go beyond basic monogramming to co-creating beauty products with consumers (although if you

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are looking to have your initials inscribed on your purchases, at the Jo Malone Artisan Studio on Regent Street, craftsmen can emboss or engrave perfume bottles, boxes or candles).

Technology can enhance the shopping experience too, and Dancey and the team are investing in relevant high-tech formulas, from virtual make-up application programmes (such as Estée Lauder’s YouCam, which allows shoppers to virtually try on its latest lipstick collections), to having live Instagram feeds displayed in-store in response to today’s “selfie-ready” culture.

“It’s about leaving with more than just a product,” Dancey concludes. “The past couple of years have seen some of the biggest changes within the retail landscape and for the first time in a long time, those changes have been driven by the consumer.”

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, or so they say, but the future of today’s beauty industry it seems is well and truly in our (express-manicured)hands.

6 Mortimer Street, W1T, elcompanies.com

ABOVE: JO MALONE LONDON; RIGHT: SMASHBOX UK, all images courtesy of Estée Lauder UK

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T H E Y O G A W E L L N E S S C O M PA N Y

Your Journey To Wellness Through Yoga

Upcoming States of Awe Workshops: A three-part series of yoga workshops to re-connect with the world around us and inspire wonder in our daily life.

Time - 8th October 2017 States - 12th November 2017 Space - 3rd December 2017

Luxury Yoga Workshops & Retreats (+44) 203 621 4388

To Book Workshops & Retreats: www.theyogawellnesscompany.com

@yogawellnessco

food

Haute cuisine

Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris was a favourite haunt of the late Christian Dior, whose flagship store was located just across the street. The couturier showcased several of his collections at the hotel and dined there regularly, and to celebrate his legacy (and Paris Fashion Week), guests can now tuck into a three-course menu of dishes inspired by the designer’s own recipes.

From 26 September – 3 October, dorchestercollection.com

Image credit: Pierre Monetta

Italy & back TWICE OVER

Two course set lunch ÂŁ19

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Cocktails 62 Seymour Street Marylebone W1H 5BN 020 3826 7940 reception@bernardis.co.uk

@Bernardislondon

All at sea Marylebone’s new all-day restaurant Fancy Crab has one hero ingredient: red king crab. The wild crab from the Barents Sea in the Arctic Ocean can be enjoyed in various ways: on the grill with butter, thyme and hollandaise sauce; in a burger; or on ice with dipping sauces and pickle. Landlubbers need not steer clear, thanks to concessions including chicken from the charcoal oven with yoghurt dressing and rib eye steaks.

92 Wigmore Street, W1U, fancycrab.co.uk

Spice of life The queue has barely subsided since Hoppers opened in Soho in 2015.

Now, the popular restaurant is opening a branch in Marylebone.

The menu, inspired by the cuisine of both the Southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka, will be similar to the Soho site, but with some additional specials for the opening, including kalupol black pork ribs with fennel and turmeric sambol, and claypot baby chicken kukul maas curry. And the best news? You can book.

77 Wigmore Street, W1U, hopperslondon.com

Swap shop Yard Sale Pizza fans can try its classic Holy Pepperoni pizza in burger form this month, complete with the signature cooked tomato base sauce and ‘Nduja sausage, thanks to a recipe swap with Patty & Bun. Until 19 September, 54 James Street, W1U; 55 Goodge Street, W1T, pattyandbun.co.uk

Let me entertain you If cooking for a dinner party sounds like your worst nightmare, Berners Tavern at The London Edition has launched a new feast menu designed to cater for groups of ten to 14 guests. Take a seat in either the main restaurant or private dining room, and tuck into one of head chef Phil Carmichael’s two menus for the occasion, featuring Buccleuch Estates beef Wellington with black truffle mashed potato and Madeira sauce, followed by champagnepoached peach and strawberry trifle.

From £85 per person for a minimum of ten guests, 10 Berners Street, W1T, bernerstavern.com

image credit: paul judd

food & drink

R estau r a n t R e vie w

The Wigmore W O R D S : L a u r e n ro m a n o

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ichelin-starred restaurants masquerading as pubs, and boozers with bistro-style menus: gastropubs come in myriad guises. Rather than be pigeonholed by the tricky portmanteau, The Wigmore, which opened on the corner of Regent Street last month, is being billed as a modern British ‘tavern’.

It all sounds faintly Dickensian, although the bar staff are unlikely to burst into rousing choruses of Oom-PahPah. What was once a bank, and more recently the Chuan Spa of The Langham Hotel just next door, has been transformed by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio into a veritable temple to the colour green. Every surface, from the impressive vaulted ceiling to the extravagant bar, has been coated in varying verdant hues. The place exudes a feeling of lived-in grandeur, complete with mohair velvet and silk cushioned banquettes, Art Deco style chandeliers and brass table lamps.

This sense of finesse continues in the kitchen, where Michel Roux Jr (who oversees Roux at The Landau, also next door) is in charge of the elevated pub grub.

Meanwhile, the team behind the hotel’s award-winning Artesian bar has devised the drinks list, which dips into the history books. There are hoptails (think potent pilsner shandies laced with peach wine and fresh fruit), cups of punch and gin tônica’s served in bulbous glasses – try the refreshing Rives Special gin with rosemary, apple, anise and blackberry.

Craft beers and cask ales sit alongside the house brewed Saison, and a menu of fancy bar snacks. There aren’t any

packets of salted peanuts, but there are stovetop cheese toasties served under cast iron presses to keep the cheese molten and bubbling; moreish buttered crumpets piled with steamed, lightly dressed cock crab; and – my favourite – masala-spiced scotch eggs. These resemble porcupines thanks to a covering of vermicelli pasta prickles, and sit in a puddle of fragrantlyspiced, utterly delicious dahl relish.

As for the mains, cheeseburgers are pimped with grilled ox-tongue and crispy shallots and the gammon and egg arrives with the traditional accompaniment of chips substituted for a huge pile of shoestring shavings, or ‘crisps’, Roux Jr-style. If it’s the real deal you’re after, though, order a side of the fluffy, fat chips with Bloody Mary salt (I end up stealing some from my friend’s plate as she struggles to finish her generously sized Hereford beef rump with peppercorn sauce).

The portion sizes are thankfully scaled down for dessert: a dainty dish of raspberry trifle and an indulgent dark chocolate and orange mousse topped with chocolate shards.

Gastropub, tavern, whatever you want to call it: I wish The Wigmore was my local.

“The Wigmore exudes a feeling of lived-in grandeur”

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15 Langham Place, Regent Street, W1B, the-wigmore.co.uk

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and prawns, but my first food memory is boiled haddock with crushed potatoes and butter – it’s a traditional Icelandic dish that’s hard to beat.

When I first started out I never predicted today’s obsession with all things Scandinavian. That type of cooking was in my blood and was so natural to me that I never saw it as a trend per se. That said, trends are integral to food; we had the Spanish trend, the Asian trend, and now it’s time for the Scandi one.

I earned my stripes in some of London’s best restaurants, before becoming head chef at Raymond Blanc’s

Turning

ten B

lack lava salt and Skyr yoghurt are just two of the more unusual ingredients Icelandic chef Aggi Sverrisson has introduced diners to at his Michelinstarred restaurant and champagne bar Texture – not to mention more than 140 varieties of fizz. As the restaurant turns ten this month, the chef-patron reflects on his proudest moments so far, jumping on the Scandinavian culinary bandwagon and learning lessons from his former mentor Raymond Blanc.

Food was an integral part of my childhood, so I had always been interested in cooking to some degree. Starting in kitchens as a teenager made me realise that I wanted my hobby to become my career.

In Iceland, we really celebrate fish and seafood cooked simply. I grew up eating the freshest cod, crab, langoustines

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. It doesn’t matter how good a restaurant is or how meticulously you prepare, things will still go wrong – this has been the case in every kitchen I have worked in. Mistakes are best learnt from and then forgotten.

Texture turns ten this month. This is a huge landmark for us, and as such we have planned a series of collaborative dinners with some of the best names in food: Raymond Blanc will be cooking on 5 September, followed by the amazing Vivek Singh of Cinnamon Club on 7 September, and finally Arnaud Bignon of The Greenhouse on 19 September with my very good friend Ollie Dabbous.

The menus at each dinner will celebrate our different cooking styles.

Many of my proudest moments over the past decade involve the incredible people that have worked in the kitchen here over the years. And, of course, seeing the restaurant full of customers enjoying our food is another highlight. As for my proudest dishes, that’s a harder question, but I would have to say the lightly salted Icelandic cod or our Anjou pigeon.

I admire my former mentor Raymond Blanc. I learnt so much working in his kitchen and continue to look to him as a role model. Over the years I have cooked for all kinds of people, but I think I was most nervous about cooking for the lead singer of Muse [Matt Bellamy], as I’m a huge fan of his band.

Marylebone is such a great neighbourhood with plenty of great places to shop or go for a drink or a bite to eat.

Having been based here for ten years, we’ve grown strong ties with other local businesses and I feel proud to be part of the community.

34 Portman Street, W1H, texture-restaurant.co.uk

food & drink

“I was most nervous about cooking for the lead singer of Muse, as I’m a huge fan of his band”

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF: TEXTURE RESTAURANT

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TRAVEL Flights of fancy

Delve into the world of Dior as the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris marks the brand’s 70th anniversary with an exhibition of more than 300 haute couture gowns designed from 1947 to the present day.

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, until 7 January 2018, tickets from £10, lesartsdecoratifs.fr

Baiser rouge dress, S/S17 Haute Couture collection, model: Ruth Bell, IMAGE CREDIT: Michal Pudelka

TRAVEL

a renaissance It’s taken four years, but the 18th century Hôtel de Crillon’s makeover is finally complete. Traces of the building’s history remain in the amethyst chandeliers and crystal Baccarat decanters, while designer Karl Lagerfeld was tasked with bringing the décor of two of the hotel’s suites up to date. Book now for restaurant L’Ecrin, which seats just 22 guests.

From approx. £983 a night, rosewoodhotels.com

pa m p e r t i m e

hidden gem Tucked away in the foothills of Ronda in southern Spain, country retreat La Donaira has opened its new spa this summer.

A natural swimming pool fed by a mountain spring is joined by an indoor heated pool, Turkish bath and sauna – with floor-to-ceiling windows to maximise on its countryside views.

Yurts will also open in the grounds this year, joining the existing farmhouse suites.

From approx. £213 a night on a full-board basis, ladonaira.com

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monkey business s ta r o f t h e s pa s Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo has opened its new spa in partnership with Givenchy. Two exclusive treatments, using its anti-ageing Le Soin Noir product range, are on offer. metropole.com

African specialist Wilderness Safaris has opened a new luxury camp adjacent to Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park.

Bisate Lodge has six spherical thatched-roof villas, all complete with a bedroom, reception area, bathroom and private deck with Mount Bisoke views.

The site is just a short drive from the park’s headquarters, so guests can head out for a day’s trekking in search of endangered mountain gorillas or golden monkeys, while also enjoying the privacy and biodiversity of the eroded volcanic cone where the lodge is situated. Guests are also encouraged to help plant trees to support the indigenous reforestation effort.

From approx. £832 a night, excluding golden monkey and gorilla permits, wilderness-safaris.com

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WELLNESS

as an Art

Oasis gives you a moment to stop and take a breath.

Feel the freedom and relaxation in your body and mind.

Let your senses be inspired in a private paradise.

It is all waiting for you. The art of wellbeing.

The Oasis by Don Carlos Resort · Boutique Hotel Experience · Marbella T (+34) 933 271 455 · dcreservas@expogrupo.com · www.doncarlosresort.expohotels.com/en/the-oasis · www.expohotels.com

promotion

Private sky Start your journey the right way with Heathrow VIP, a world-class VIP experience complete with private lounges, fine dining and a host of other services to make every experience memorable

I

n July, more than 7.5 million passengers travelled through Heathrow airport. On average 243,000 passengers passed through the airport every day, equivalent to the population of Plymouth. Heathrow may help millions on their way each month, but it also has a specialised team dedicated to making air travel a memorable and luxurious experience for a very special few.

Heathrow VIP begins its bespoke service for business and first class passengers even before a chauffeur-driven BMW 7 series arrives outside their house to pick them up. One of the unique services is the team that is on hand to source any last minute requests or gifts for the journey ahead.

“A dedicated member of the team will discuss in advance the customer’s needs and prepare their private lounge in advance, so any products are ready for them before they arrive,” says head of Heathrow VIP Priya Malhotra.

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“Our team of personal shoppers can accompany the customer to the terminal if they wish to discover the latest collections and exclusive ranges from their favourite brands. Our team of 24 personal shoppers are available at any time and speak a wide range of languages.”

However, guests can also choose to have a completely private airport experience with Heathrow VIP, never setting foot in the main terminal. Their car will drop them off at the VIP private entrance, where they’ll be escorted by a Heathrow VIP butler to their own sumptuous private lounge.

While check-in and luggage is taken care of (up to ten items of hand luggage are allowed per person), VIP customers can enjoy a range of dining choices in the lounge, with a monthly seasonal menu devised

by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton. Another benefit of the lounge experience is that VIPs are allowed two guests to join them.

“This autumn, we will also have a number of complimentary wellness products within the lounge, exclusively available to our customers, including remedies and little touches to ensure they eat and live well during their journey with us,” adds Malhotra.

When it comes to take off, VIPs can choose whether to board the plane first or last after their private security check – we imagine it’ll usually be the latter once their meal has been enjoyed and the sofas sunk into. A car will be on hand to escort guests to the stairs of the aircraft, before the rest of their adventure begins.

Heathrow VIP has transformed air travel into a relaxing and discreet experience for the select few who are looking for an extra touch of privacy and luxury, and the team hopes to welcome you soon to enjoy this memorable experience.

“Passengers will be picked up outside their house by a chauffeur-driven BMW 7 series”

heathrowvip.com

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The

patagonia, image CREDIT: oli anderson

road

to

the

TRAVEL

end of the world Annie Biziou journeys across glacial rivers and evergreen forests in Patagonia

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eaning out of the truck window, I track the three-metre wingspan of an Andean condor as it soars over hills flush with grass, a vast undulating stretch of crumpled velvet. Three gauchos coax their horses in figures of eight around a herd of cattle on the pampas, backed with layers of snow-dusted mountains. We’ve been pushing along Chilean Patagonia’s Ruta del Fin del Mundo – “the road to the end of the world” – for some time, but here it fades from tarmac to dust, dissolving at

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the edge of a glacial stream. We’ve come to the end of the road, at the bottom of the world; a faraway land steeped in an irresistible concoction of myth and natural beauty.

“I want to show you my Patagonia,” says my guide Juana, a free-spirited Spaniard with a penchant for the Chilean wilderness. “It’s what I like to call the real Patagonia.” I emerge into temperatures barely above freezing, an icy wind swelling from wide skies where sunshine curdles with cloud. Here in Sierra Baguales, I’ve stepped

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away from the well-trodden, but still exquisite, hiking trails of the UNESCO World Heritage Torres del Paine National Park. In Baguales, the only footprints are those of skittish guanacos, native woolly llama relatives, regarding us curiously from above. This part of Chilean Patagonia feels lost, wild, and meditative all at once; what’s more, it’s a private reserve only accessible to geologists with permits and guests of Awasi Patagonia, which happens to be my luxurious base for the weekend.

Just as Sierra Baguales is no run-of-the-mill excursion, Awasi Patagonia is no ordinary hotel.

Comprising 14 individual timberand-glass villas on a sloping hillside bordered with trees tinted red by the onset of autumn, this lavish hideaway sits just a few miles from the entrance to Torres del Paine.

Each suite radiates wilderness chic, with raw lenga wood panelling, log burners and an alfresco wood-fired hot tub overlooking the famous granite towers. If opulent accommodation is the entrée and private excursions the main fare, then food is surely the crowning glory. Awasi Patagonia’s chef is fluent in haute cuisine, adding an experimental twist to his locally inspired dishes using produce sourced from nearby estancias

This part of Chilean Patagonia feels lost, wild and meditative

FROM TOP: THE VOLCANO IN PUCÓN; WILDLIFE IN PATAGONIA; WATERFALLS IN PATAGONIA AND PUCÓN, IMAGE CREDIT: OLI ANDERSON

(estates). The enormously knowledgeable sommelier charms me into tasting Chilean wines with every meal in the main lodge.

The Ruta del Fin del Mundo might sound far-flung, but LATAM Airlines’ recently launched flight from Santiago to Puerto Natales cuts the drive from the closest airport to Awasi Patagonia from around four hours to less than two.

Coupled with new direct British Airways flights from London to Santiago, the end of the world is suddenly markedly closer to home.

Still, to pair Patagonia with pretty much any other Chilean destination, you’ll typically fly back through the capital city. I take the chance to catch a night in Santiago’s latest bolthole, Hotel Magnolia; a lovingly restored 1920s mansion positioned in the trendy and historic Bellavista district. A blend of chequered floors, suspended metal staircases and

TRAVEL

mid-century modern furniture has me swooning all the way to my emperor-sized bed. It’s the perfect city stop off before I set off for Pucón.

Found on the northernmost border of Patagonia and linked by a sling of flora and fauna native to the Magellan peninsula, Pucón is nevertheless wildly different from its southerly neighbour. Pockmarked with volcanoes, sliced with glacial rivers and cloaked in temperate evergreen forest, Pucón is an adventure-lovers dream. Indeed, this fertile, fairytale landscape stole the hearts of Michael and Claudia Paravicini when they left Switzerland to pursue a hospitality venture in Chile. The initial plan was a simple bed and breakfast centred on a cheese factory, which eventually evolved into Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira, an intimate property that shares a lust for adventurous escapades and a Relais & Chateaux stamp with Awasi. The result is a low-key, high-style retreat with 21 rooms, including a slew of private villas dotted along the Liucura River, decorated with Claudia’s abstract paintings.

Given that Vira Vira has its very own farm – featuring postcard-worthy wildflower paddocks where cows graze in the shadow of Villarrica volcano, a Swiss dairy and extensive vegetable gardens – the food here is, unsurprisingly, as spectacular as the setting. Dinner spans four courses of seasonal sustenance, but while the food alone is enough to justify the distance from home, it’s the sheer variety of environments here that I’m most taken with. In three days, I travel up Villarrica’s snowy slopes where layers of flashABOVE: HOTEL MAGNOLIA SANTIAGO; BELOW: HACIENDA hotel VIRA VIRA

frozen lava give the ground a strange hollow consistency; I raft down crystalline rivers through towering rainforest on the hunt for kingfishers, salmon and brown trout; and wander among bands of huge, ancient monkey puzzle trees.

My guide Patricio spends his spare time scouting secret spots for photography, so I know I’m in for a treat on my final day in Pucón. We skip past the sunlit gate to Huerquehue National Park in favour of a dark, leafy path, where coihue trees trailing thick vines crowd around mossy boulders left in the wake of a melting glacier years ago. A hurried white river courses off the edge of a granite table and uphill, the mouth of a waterfall conceals a colossal cave. We dash through icy spray and veils of lichen and settle for a picnic in the open fields beside a stream with views of the distance Lanín volcano. “There’s evidence that Lanín is coming back to life,” Patricio tells me. “If she erupts, I don’t think there’ll be much left of us.” Looking up at the snowy cone engulfed with a gentle bowler hat of cloud, and back to the trickling stream at our feet, it’s easy to see why Pucón’s residents would take their chances. If Chile has taught me anything, it’s that local food, good company and nature’s endless surprises provide a foolproof route to happiness.

Rooms at Awasi Patagonia from approx. £2,750 per person for a three-night allinclusive stay based on double occupancy, awasipatagonia.com. Rooms at Hotel Hacienda Vira Vira from approx. £1,485 per person for a three-night all-inclusive stay based on double occupancy, hotelviravira.com. Rooms at Hotel Magnolia Santiago from approx. £170 per room per night, hotelmagnolia.cl. British Airways flies direct from London to Santiago, with connecting internal flights with LATAM between Santiago and Puerto Natales (for Patagonia), and Temuco (for Pucón).

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Welcome home It may be more than 4,600 miles away from London, but Hannah Lemon decides that relocating to Jamaica – with every creature comfort and a new family to boot – might not be so bad

TRAVEL

clockwise from left: cottage 6; the infinity pool in cottage 3; jamaica inn beach; cottage 4

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t’s not every day that your hotel room turns out to be a house. As I open the door to my two-floor villa at the Jamaica Inn, I can’t help giggling with childlike glee, sprinting barefoot upstairs to my four-poster bed, the white cotton canopy billowing in the sea breeze like sails, to perform a running jump onto the fluffy pillows.

I spend the next half an hour wandering around the rooms. Downstairs: an open kitchenette-sitting room, terrace with plunge pool, and private outdoor staircase to the ocean.

Upstairs: a vast bedroom, balcony with outdoor shower, bathroom with indoor shower and bath, and a walk-in dressing room.

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My villa sits serenely at one end of the Jamaica Inn grounds on the famous Caribbean isle, surrounded by a smattering of other cottages, each with panoramic views of the azure sea. The rest of the 52 suites are attached to the main building of the hotel and come with their own startling panorama of the ocean.

Interaction with the lush surrounds is actively encouraged here, as people enjoy breakfast on their balcony above the beach or fling the windows wide on their private terrace.

The legendary Jamaica Inn was once the go-to destination for the glitterati and literati. Marilyn Monroe and her husband Arthur Miller honeymooned here, while Noël Coward, T.S. Eliot, Errol Flynn and Sir Winston Churchill also soaked up the sun on private sojourns. The old-school glamour and colonial history of the island still hang in the air, even if the clientele has changed (Lily Allen and Sir Richard Branson are among recent visitors).

Faded sepia pictures of Hollywood’s famous faces enjoying dinner line the walls of the main building’s musky study, while owners Eric and Peter Morrow maintain the family feel of the place. Their father, Charlie, set up

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I spend my days relaxing in a hammock with one of Teddy’s (strong) rum punches and playing croquet in the sun the hotel with his friend Matthew Archibald in 1958. Many of the staff members are ‘lifers’ too.

Among them is Teddy, who has worked at the hotel for 58 years and had his beach bar christened ‘Teddy’s Bar’ to mark the occasion.

His stooping figure and wiry limbs make me wonder how he’s still going, but put on some music and you’ll find him dancing along the beach, serving drinks like he’s 20 again.

It makes me consider that the international reputation of the island’s reported crime culture does serious disservice to the friendly people serving the tourism trade. Ocho Rios, where the hotel is located, was once a fishing port and now acts as the coastline for several four- and five-star hotels. Life is slow-paced and a walk around town highlights the chilled-out nature of locals, with whom the hotel encourages guests to strike up a rapport. I am taken to the food market to check out local ingredients: from cassava, ackee and breadfruit to the more recognisable sugar cane sticks, plantain and coconuts. When we get back to the hotel, chef Maurice demonstrates how to serve it up in traditional Caribbean style and is thrilled when my fellow guests and I smack our lips together in delight.

TRAVEL

A ten-minute boat trip to Dunn’s River Falls and Park is a worthwhile jaunt to see Jamaica at its best. It is one of only a few waterfalls in the world that empties directly into the sea. The current has created natural steps out of the rock to the top of the hill, which tourists can walk up with the help of a guide. The foliage is home to a number of insects, and at one point I flinch when I see a giant spider and its nest of black eggs.

For a more genteel approach to nature, turtle watching in Oracabessa Bay is another option (about 20 minutes by car). Mel Tennant (aka The Turtle Man) works with a number of luxury hotels to provide a narrative of the reproduction, survival and conservation of these placid creatures. Donations help to keep his business alive, as well as to educate locals on the importance of local marine wildlife. Not only does his knowledge of turtles inspire, Tennant’s anecdotes of flirtations with famous rockers are equally entertaining and I begin to wonder if there is an A-lister he hasn’t met.

Back at the ranch, it’s a quiet loll from villa to beach to restaurant. When I return, staff greet me with a “welcome home” – and it starts to feel

clockwise from TOP left: jamaica inn beach; cottage 5; cottage 3; ocean spa moonlight massage; cottage 6

that way. R&R is the key objective here and it proves to be the perfect setting for a romantic retreat, with the hotel often used as a venue for weddings. I spend my days relaxing in a hammock with one of Teddy’s (strong) rum punches, playing croquet in the sun and visiting the treehouse-style spa to enjoy a full body massage to the sound of waves lapping the shore.

Each morning, I am woken cheerily by the bright blue views and make the most of the experience before the rest of the guests wake up for breakfast. A few steps down the private staircase on the bluff outside my villa and I’m in the water swimming from my cove to the main beach. I pull a kayak into the sea (water activities, which also include paddle boarding and sailing, are complimentary), and paddle around the private bay watching the waves ripple further out to sea.

Breakfast can be taken in your room (I dine al fresco on my balcony one morning – one of the better ways to enjoy a full English), or in the restaurant. Open to the elements, nothing starts the day off better than a fruit juice and a pile of pancakes on the open veranda.

Lunch is a relaxed affair on the beach, while guests are encouraged to dress up for dinner in the hotel to match the colonial vibe – linen slacks for men and cocktail dresses for women.

Caribbean seafood dishes are served alongside more traditional European plates of duck breast or steak.

I feel like I’ve settled in with a new family at Jamaica Inn – Maurice, Teddy, Mel and the whole gang add a unique charm to the place.

They say home is where the heart is, and a little piece of mine will always be here.

From $329 (approx. £270), jamaicainn.com

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Property Listings See below for estate agents in your area

Aston Chase 69-71 Park Road NW1 6XU 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com

CBRE Henrietta House 8 Henrietta Place W1G 0NB 020 7182 2000 cbre.co.uk

Chestertons 47 South Audley Street W1K 2AQ 020 7629 4513

Kay & Co 20a Paddington Street W1U 5QP 020 7486 6338

Pastor Real Estate 11 Curzon Street W1J 5HJ 020 3879 8989 (sales)

24-25 Albion Street W2 2AX 020 3468 0917 kayandco.com

48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (lettings) pastor-realestate.com

Knight Frank 55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 5-7 Wellington Place NW8 7PB 020 7586 2777 knightfrank.co.uk

40 Connaught Street, W2 2AB 020 7298 5900 chestertons.com

Robert Irving Burns 23-24 Margaret Street W1W 8LK 020 7637 0821 rib.co.uk

Rokstone 5 Dorset Street, W1U 6QJ 020 7486 3320 rokstone.com Marsh & Parsons 94 Baker Street W1U 6FZ 020 7935 1775 marshandparsons.co.uk

Hudsons Property 24 Charlotte Street W1T 2ND 020 7323 2277 hudsonsproperty.com

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

Sotheby’s Realty 77-79 Ebury Street SW1W 0NZ 020 3714 0749 sothebysrealty.co.uk

HOMES showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Elegant & exclusive The latest prime properties

Image courtesy of Kay & Co

Queen Anne Street, Marylebone W1 A three bedroom apartment finished to an exceptional standard throughout A bright and recently refurbished duplex apartment. Master bedroom with storage and en suite bathroom, 2 further bedrooms and shower room, spacious open plan reception/dining room, separate kitchen and separate WC. Further benefits include lift access, porter, communal garden and residents parking (private parking is available via separate negotiation). EPC: C. Approximately 158.2 sq m (1,703 sq ft).

Leasehold: Approximately 87 years remaining

Guide price: £3,250,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY170053

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Mansfield Street, Marylebone W1 A magnificent three bedroom apartment in a desirable mansion block Located on the second floor this property comprises master bedroom with en suite shower room, 2 further bedrooms, bathroom, spacious reception room, separate kitchen and impressive entrance hall. The apartment benefits from large windows allowing for an abundance of natural light, high ceilings and a wealth of period features throughout. EPC: D. Approximately 144.3 sq m (1,553 sq ft).

Leasehold: approximately 42 years remaining

Guide price: £3,000,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY120014

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Weymouth Street, Marylebone W1 An immaculate two bedroom apartment in a highly sought after mansion block A well proportioned apartment comprising master bedroom with en suite bathroom, 2nd bedroom with built in storage, family bathroom, large reception room with dining area and separate fully fitted kitchen. Further benefits include large windows allowing for an abundance of natural light, lift access and porter.

EPC: C. Approximately 110.3 sq m (1,187 sq ft).

Leasehold: Approximately 95 years remaining

Guide price: £2,500,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone marylebone@knightfrank.com 020 3641 7938

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/MRY170078

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property

Property news PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London

Super-prime revival Another significant sale goes through on Portland Place, as developers and high-net-worth buyers rediscover this prestigious address

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aid out by Robert and James Adam for the Duke of Portland in the late 18th century, Portland Place originally ran north from the gardens of a glorious mansion called Foley House.

At an exceptional 125 feet wide, Portland Place was envisaged as one of the widest streets in London (Lord Foley refused to have his views to the park interfered with), and later became incorporated into the royal route from Carlton House to Regent’s Park via Langham Place as part of John Nash’s masterplan for the Prince Regent.

Originally designed as sophisticated homes for noble folk, the handsome but expensive-to-run townhouses fell out of favour in the early 1900s and some were replaced with apartment blocks or sub-divided, while others were taken over by embassies and institutions. But despite a winning

PrimeQResi

Fitzrovia’s ‘Skinny House’ gets the go-ahead IMAGES COURTESY OF AMAZON PROPERTY

combination of vast proportions and prestigious neighbours, including The Langham Hotel, the BBC and RIBA, the address has remained strangely overlooked by developers and highnet-worth buyers until recently.

The last five years have seen something of a shift, however, with several notable deals in super-prime territory and handsome Adam mansions and Beaux-Arts blocks transformed into luxury homes for the 21st century. Notable recent sales have included: The (in)famous, Grade II* listed No. 33 Portland Place – used as a key location in The King’s Speech, which went for £25m in 2015; and No.44 Portland Place – a 10,000 sq ft property with permission for a single dwelling conversion, which was also snapped up in 2015 after hitting the market at £14m.

The latest deal to catch our eye has just gone through at No.5, the striking former UK Fashion and Textile Association HQ that Amazon Property transformed into seven luxury laterals a few years ago.

The £9.65m penthouse takes up the entire sixth and seventh floors and has direct lift access, four bedroom suites, an open-plan reception space with retractable skylight and a terrace.

HOK Architects gets approval to build a family home in an alleyway off Great Portland Street

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estminster planners have approved an unusual proposal to build a four-storey slim-fit family home in an alleyway off Great Portland Street.

The property, dubbed ‘Skinny House’ by its designers HOK Architects, fits in an incredibly tight spot – just 3.1 metres wide – on a major road junction near Regent’s Park. Yet it will still deliver a three-bedroom 142 sq m home, plus a terrace and courtyard garden.

The alleyway, which runs between 379 and 383 Euston Road, used to provide a pedestrian link from the main road to the Royal National Orthopaedic Hospital, but it has been closed off at both ends for some time, ever since the old hospital site was developed into the Fitzrovia Apartments.

Skinny House is being developed

by Bolsover Street Ltd, which lists Manhattan Loft Corporation as its contact address and Harry Handelsman as a director.

primeresi.com

JOURNAL OF LUXURY PROPERTY

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www.pastor-realestate.com

TO LET: PALGRAVE GARDENS, MARYLEBONE NW1

£750 per week - Furnished

2 Double Bedrooms I Reception Room I Balconies I Leisure Facilities I 24 Hour Concierge I Gated Development Smart newly decorated two bedroom apartment benefitting from access to a balcony from all main rooms overlooking the communal gardens of this gated block with 24 hr concierge, pool, gym & spa facilities. Wood flooring, fully fitted kitchen, 2 bathrooms and exceptional storage.

TO LET: MARYLEBONE LANE, MARYLEBONE W1

£1,350 per week - Furnished

3 Double Bedrooms I 2 Large Roof Terraces I Newly Furnished I Modern Development I Comfort Cooling Contemporary three double bedroom duplex apartment with private terraces on the 5th & 6th floors of this modern development moments from Bond Street tube and a short stroll to Marylebone Village. Large bright airy rooms, fully fitted kitchen, 2 bathrooms and excellent storage throughout .

FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL LETTINGS CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3195 9595 lettings@pastor-realestate.com 48 Curzon Street, London, W1J 7UL

TO LET: BRYANSTON SQUARE, MARYLEBONE W1 £1700 p/w TO LET: GOODGE STREET, FITZROVIA W1

£825 p/w

3 Double Bedrooms I 3 Bathrooms I Access To Garden Square

2 Bedrooms I Fully Furnished I 2 Bathrooms I Close to Tube

Unfurnished townhouse with period features ideal for entertaining with access to a private garden square and close to amenities.

Modern refurbished two bedroom flat in the heart of Fitzrovia with high specification, wood floors, two baths, open-plan kitchen/reception.

TO LET: BIRD STREET, MARYLEBONE W1U

TO LET: MARYLEBONE LANE, MARYLEBONE

£923 p/w

£475 p/w

2 Double Bedrooms I High Specification I Fully Furnished

Superb Studio I Separate Kitchen I Roof Terrace I Near Tube

Excellent well presented two bedroom apartment quietly located in a popular block with porter moments from Selfridges and Bond Street.

Rarely available, large studio apartment with roof terrace, separate kitchen, wood floors, good storage, smart modern décor & furniture.

FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL LETTINGS CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3195 9595 lettings@pastor-realestate.com 48 Curzon Street, London, W1J 7UL

property

Property news Literary connections T . S. Eliot’s London home comes onto the market

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rawford Mansions, located just off Old Marylebone Road has a poetic past. The five-storey house was the former home of the British poet and essayist T. S. Eliot from 1916 to 1918 and a green plaque from the City of Westminster commemorates his residence.

He moved in with his wife Vivienne Haigh-Wood shortly after writing The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock and several works, including his pamphlet Prufrock and Other Observations, were published during his time here.

A two-bedroom apartment situated in the block at Crawford Mansions is now on the market. Martin Bikhit, managing director of Kay & Co, comments:

The five-storey house was the former home of the British poet and essayist “Historical buildings are desirable as people love the fact that their home has a fascinating past and famous notable residents”.

The accommodation is spread across 714 sq ft, including a balcony, and has been finished to a modern standard. It is on the market for £995,000 with Kay & Co. kayandco.com

PrimeQResi

Spotlight on lettings Arya Salari, head of lettings at Knight Frank’s Marylebone office shares his top tips for tenants “Over the past few weeks, multiple offers on the same property are becoming more commonplace.

We are now operating at the busiest time of year, when the whole cross-section of the market place, from students to families, are all out looking to rent. With increased demand, there is also increased competition between applicants and it is important for them to know that they are not the only ones viewing a particular property.

My advice would be that if a property ticks three out of your five boxes, put in an offer and have a second or third option in case you lose out on your first choice.

Each offer is an equation for a client, with the move in date and length of tenancy being as relevant as the price per week. It is important to have everything in order so that you can act quickly once an offer has been agreed. This would include the moving in monies, references and relevant identification documents.

The majority of properties available to rent in September are already on the market, so if an applicant is looking to move, I would strongly encourage them to start viewing now to avoid too much of a compromise.”

If you are looking to rent, please do give us a call with your search requirements and we will be happy to help you find your new home: 0203 435 6460; arya.salari@knightfrank.com

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Price: £1,975,000

PORTMAN MANSIONS, MARYLEBONE W1 This rarely available, bright, spacious and very well-proportioned two bedroom flat is situated on the fourth floor (with a lift) of this popular mansion block in the heart of Marylebone. The flat comprises a large double aspect reception/dining room, two generous double bedrooms, two bathrooms (one en-suite), a modern separate kitchen and plenty of storage throughout. Portman mansions is a very well-maintained prime Marylebone period building benefiting from a full-time porter, private gym and sauna.

Ideally located moments from the boutique shops of Marylebone High Street, Chiltern Street has become one of London’s trendiest streets with its village ambiance and the ever-popular Chiltern Firehouse Hotel located on the same street. The nearest tube station is Baker Street which is also just moments away from the property.

020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ enquiries@rokstone.com

» » » » » » »

Two Bedrooms Two Bathrooms Lift Full Time Porter Private Gym and Sauna Share of Freehold Approximately 1220 Sq.Ft. (113.34 Sq. M.)

The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings

Drawing of St Dunstan-in-the-West by SPAB Scholar Ptolomy Dean

Founded by William Morris, the SPAB protects the historic environment from decay, damage and demolition. It responds to threats to old buildings, trains building professionals, craftspeople, homeowners and volunteers and gives advice about maintenance and repairs. Since 1877 countless buildings have been saved for future generations.

Information about maintaining your home is available through events, courses, lectures, publications and telephone advice.

To support our work why not join the SPAB? Members receive a quarterly magazine, our list of historic properties for sale and access to our regional activities.

www.spab.org.uk 020 7377 1644 A charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England & Wales. Company no: 5743962 Charity no: 1113753 37 Spital Square, London E1 6DY

NEW HOMES NEW HOMES NEW HOMES FITZROY PLACE W1T FITZROY PLACE W1T FITZROY PLACE W1T

£1,650,000 £1,650,000 We are delighted to offer this spectacular brand new one bedroom apartment. This flat £1,650,000 We areviews delighted offerChapel this spectacular offers of thetolisted and Gardens.

020 7927 0616 newhomes@rib.co.uk 23-24 Margaret London, W1W 8LF 020 7927 0616Street, newhomes@rib.co.uk 23-24 Margaret London, W1W 8LF 020 7927 0616Street, newhomes@rib.co.uk

6931 - RIB - Marylebone & Fitzrovia Magazine (Sept Issue).indd 1

23-24 Margaret Street, London, W1W 8LF

6931 - RIB - Marylebone & Fitzrovia Magazine (Sept Issue).indd 1

6931 - RIB - Marylebone & Fitzrovia Magazine (Sept Issue).indd 1

brand new one bedroom apartment. This flat We areviews delighted offerChapel this local spectacular Drawing inspiration from the offers of thetolisted and Gardens. brand new one bedroom This architecture, Fitzroy Placeapartment. is very much in flat Drawing inspiration from the local offers views of the listed Chapel and Gardens. keeping with this stylish central London architecture, Fitzroy Place is very muchthe in district and will sit handsomely within Drawing inspiration from the local keeping with this stylish central London area’s famous street scape. architecture, Fitzroy Place is very muchthe in district and will sit handsomely within keeping with this stylish central London area’s famous street scape. district and will sit handsomely within the area’s famous street scape.

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THIS IMAGE AND BELOW LEFT: DORSET SQUARE; BELOW RIGHT: MONTAGU SQUARE. IMAGE CREDIT: sarah jackson and colin wing, courtesy of open garden squares weekend

Green appeal Both Marylebone and Fitzrovia boast some of the capital’s most prestigious garden squares. Here, three local agents share their insights into these desirable addresses

Kay & Co Martin Bikhit, managing director Garden Squares were originally created as residential addresses for the elite, and although some have been converted into commercial use, the most expensive and exclusive squares in prime central London remain a top choice for wealthy individuals from across the globe.

The first garden square, Southampton Square (now Bloomsbury Square), was built in the mid-17th century by the

then 4th Earl of Southampton and in the following decades the palatial residences that encircled the square became havens for aristocracy, successful traders and professionals.

The gardens in most London garden squares have been for the benefit of and maintained by the residents since their inception, with evidence dating from the late-17th century of a levy afforded upon residents for the upkeep of “rayles, payles, fountain and garden”.

Montagu Square in Marylebone, one of the finest and most expensive

squares, is the only remaining square in Westminster which is wholly residential and has proven highly popular with US buyers who love the quintessential British architecture, garden views and close proximity to trendy Marylebone High Street. We currently have a duplex apartment for sale on the square for £2.5 million, which is set within a Grade II-listed Georgian building.

20a Paddington Street, W1U, 020 3504 9981, kayandco.com

PROPERTY

Knight Frank

Rokstone

Ali Mathews, sales negotiator

Olivia McSweeney, head of lettings

We are lucky to have some of the most beautiful public parks in the country. Private garden space in central London is a rarity, so living on or near a garden square is hugely desirable. Having access to a beautiful manicured private garden, without the hassle of its upkeep, is certainly a draw to a potential buyer, as is the impressive Georgian architecture that predominantly surrounds these squares, which often exude a sense of timeless grandeur. However, the increasingly evident draw of living on a central London garden square is the sense of community that comes with it: be it a summer garden party, play or a festive carol concert at Christmas.

It has been said in the past that London can be a lonely place to live, where one does not know their neighbours. I imagine these people have never lived on a garden square.

Knight Frank’s Marylebone office has exchanged on two properties in the last month on Montagu Square, an elegant Georgian garden square. We have many similar properties available across Marylebone, Fitzrovia and Bloomsbury, so please do not hesitate to contact me.

55 Baker Street, W1U, 020 3641 7938, knightfrank.com

You could be forgiven for thinking that London is merely a concrete jungle. Indeed, with impressive towers springing up across the capital’s skyline, it’s easy to forget that amid the abundance of glass and concrete, London is home to some truly remarkable green spaces. A report commissioned by the City of London Corporation in 2013 highlighted that London is the greenest major city in Europe, and the third leafiest city of its size in the world.

In fact, it’s estimated that approximately 40 per cent of the city is reserved for publicly accessible green spaces.

Of these green spaces, Montagu, Bryanston and Portman squares are some of the capital’s most enchanting. So it comes as no surprise that these addresses attract visitors, tenants and prospective residents from far and wide.

These leafy sanctuaries are the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of modern life. A well-maintained tree-lined space is not only picturesque, but also provides an ideal setting for us all to enjoy whatever the season.

These garden squares foster a sense of community, providing a hub for neighbours to convene, seasonal events to be held, and a space for children to play.

And, although the privilege of an address on one of these Georgian squares does come at a premium, with tenants prepared to pay up to 10 per cent more for access to outside space, with no garden maintenance to worry about, that premium is justified.

5 Dorset Street, W1U, 020 7580 2030, rokstone.com

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A Luxuriously Redeveloped Family Townhouse Clarendon Place, Hyde Park, W2 • Three/Four Bedroom Suites • Roof Terrace with Hyde Park Views • Formal Drawing and Dining Rooms • Bespoke Cococucine Kitchen with Siemens Appliances • Private Parking for up to Four Cars to The Rear of The Property • Air Conditioning and Underfloor Heating Throughout • Grade 3 Security System • Planning Consent in Place for a Basement Cinema, Gym & Spa • Energy Rating: C £6,950,000 – Freehold Kay & Co Marylebone & Fitzrovia Sales 020 3394 0027 marylebone@kayandco.com kayandco.com

One of the Finest Penthouses in Fitzrovia Bolsover street, Fitzrovia, London, W1W • Three Bedrooms • Three Bathrooms • Open Plan Kitchen • Dining Room • Reception Room • Guest Cloakroom • Utility Room • Two Roof Terraces • Underground Parking • Approximately 2,475 Sq Ft • Energy Rating: B £6,995,000 – Leasehold

Kay & Co Marylebone & Fitzrovia Sales 020 3394 0027 marylebone@kayandco.com kayandco.com

Spacious and Contemporary Two Bedroom Flat Queen Anne Street, Marylebone, W1G • Two Bedrooms • Reception Room • Kitchen • Two Bathrooms • Direct lift access • Wood flooring • Approximately 968 Sq. Ft • Energy Rating: C £945 Per Week – Part Furnished / Furnished by Separate Negotiation

Kay & Co Marylebone & Fitzrovia Lettings 020 3394 0027 marylebone@kayandco.com kayandco.com Admin Fee : £150 +VAT Tenancy Agreement Fee : £100 + VAT Referencing Fee : £50 P/P Incl VAT

Beautifully Refurbished Two Bedroom Apartment Wimpole Street, Marylebone, W1G • Two Bedrooms • Two Bathrooms • Guest WC • Kitchen • Reception room • Terrace • Reception Room • Approximately 1,496 Sq. Ft • Energy Rating: E £945 Per Week – Part Furnished / Furnished by Separate Negotiation Kay & Co Marylebone & Fitzrovia Lettings 020 3394 0027 marylebone@kayandco.com kayandco.com Admin Fee : £150 +VAT Tenancy Agreement Fee : £100 + VAT Referencing Fee : £50 P/P Incl VAT

available from 15th of september

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