The Mayfair Magazine April 2017 by Runwild Media Group

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Please savour responsibly

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Rossana Rossana Flagship Flagship Store Store www.rossana.uk.com www.rossana.uk.com 17 Duke 17 Duke Street, Street, Mayfair Mayfair London London W1U W1U 1DL1DL Tel +44(0)207 Tel +44(0)207 167167 4717 4717

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CONTENTS April 2017 88

Regulars 10 Editor’s letter 12 Five minutes with... Fortnum & Mason’s CEO Ewan Venters 14 Couture culture The worlds of fashion, film and art collide in April’s cultural round-up 56 Shades of change Stay sharp and smart this spring with light layers 106 Remembering Mayfair The ever-equestrian Running Horse pub

102 47

Features 18

Fix up, look sharp Bill Nighy speaks to Hannah Lemon about his new film and on-set wardrobes

48 Silver screen Discover Italian Pop art at Partners & Mucciaccia 66 Charlotte’s web Fashion is always fun at Charlotte Olympia, as Katy Parker learns 76 Lines of beauty Marianne Dick pays a visit to Christian Liaigre on Conduit Street 88 Mix and match Find your new favourite tipple at a bar just around the corner 92 Serving up success Meet Shepherd Market’s top Turkish restaurateur, Hüseyin Özer 100 Epicurean escapes Take to the kitchen, the Great British way 102 The floating palace Kate Harrison admires Aman’s Venetian outpost

23 29

Good enough to eat Melissa Emerson reports on photography lovers dishing up works of fantastical food art Behind closed doors Nick Savage catches up with six top maître d’s

34 Collection

50 Fashion

84 Health & beauty

95 Travel

45 Art

73 Interiors

86 Food & drink

107 Property

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08/03/17 12:10

editor’s letter

editor

From the APRIL 2017 s issue 067

Editor Hannah Lemon Deputy Editor Camilla Apcar Contributing Editor Lauren Romano Jewellery Editor Olivia Sharpe Watch Editor Richard Brown Acting Assistant Editor Marianne Dick Senior Designer Daniel Poole Junior Designer Paris Fielder Production Alice Ford Jamie Steele Hugo Wheatley General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

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“Arranging for a thousand people to laugh at the same time becomes endlessly fascinating” Bill Nighy There’s nothing better than spending a couple of hours watching a good British drama. Even more so when it stars the charmingly witty Bill Nighy. After bagging sterling roles on stage and screen, from wealthy restaurateur in David Hare’s Skylight to retired rocker in Nick Curtis’ Love Actually, he holds a place in our hearts as a national treasure. Nighy tells us about the highs and lows of acting as well as his latest flick, Their Finest, in which he appears alongside Sam Claflin and Gemma Arterton. Elsewhere this month, we look to the kitchen. We meet the maître d’s ready to spill their secrets about the diners of Mayfair, uncover three great gastronomic escapes in the English countryside, and scout out the area’s eight best cocktails. It’s been a hard month.

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Hannah Lemon Editor Follow us on Twitter @MayfairMagazine and Instagram @themayfairmagazine

On the

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bill nighy, photography: Harry Borden/Contour by Getty Images

luxurylondon.co.uk A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.

Regulars

5 minutes with...

I started my first job age 11. I set up my own business selling bread rolls in my neighbourhood.

I was born in Dunfermline in Fife, Scotland, but was brought up on the East Neuk around the Pittenweem and Largo area.

“I truly believe it’s the magic of people that makes Fortnum’s an extra special place”

Working with the then deputy chairman of Sainsbury’s, Tom Vyner, and the chairman, Lord Sainsbury, shaped my future retail career. They were both important role models.

Making marmalade with my grandmother is one of my favourite childhood memories.

When I was five or six, my parents started a family tradition of taking me to Fortnum’s for a slice of Welsh rarebit before heading to the theatre. On my first day at Fortnum & Mason I felt immensely proud. It’s a great honour to have the responsibility of stewardship within a 310-year history.

The best piece of advice I have received: never assume.

Ewan Venters From bacon sarnies to meeting Her Majesty The Queen, the vices and victories of Fortnum & Mason’s CEO

The best piece of advice for my children: be kind. Angela Hartnett’s risotto is my favourite dish to cook. Saffron, asparagus or white truffle depending on the season.

I adore a piece of Glenarm beef, from the Glenarm Estate in

The most important thing as CEO is hiring, developing and

Northern Ireland, cooked medium rare. And my favourite drink has to be a white burgundy. On the other hand, I’m not so keen on offal.

retaining great people. While technology is an important enabler, I truly believe it’s the magic of people that makes Fortnum & Mason an extra special place. clockwise from top: ewan venters; fortnum & mason exterior; pittenweem in fife; a coffee barista; 45 jermyn st., image courtesy of james mcdonald; fortnum & mason interior

HP brown sauce on a bacon sandwich is my guilty pleasure. My career plan B was to become a barista. I think it’s a great, sociable job. Imagine making so many people happy with great coffee.

I love eating out at 45 Jermyn St., Café Murano and Le Caprice.

I’ve met The Queen. But I can’t tell you what she said to me or I’ll be sent to the tower. 12

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literary itinerary

agenda Four years since the launch of The Elite London, the UK’s most exclusive jet-set lifestyle show, organisers AvBuyer Events and Exclusively Events have announced the date of the next event. Taking place, once again, at London Biggin Hill Airport the display is made up of four shows accessible by both road and air: Jet-Set Lifestyle, the Marine Showcase, the Exclusively Luxury Brand Show and the Exclusively Supercar Showcase. Expect once-in-alifetime experiences, such as supercar test drives, beauty treatments and a two-seater Spitfire ride. And if you enjoy this, sign up to the launch of The Elite London’s sister event, The Elite New York, taking place at Essex County Airport, New Jersey on 8-9 September. The Elite London, 11-13 May, theeliteevents.com

Daniel Radcliffe (Rosencrantz) and Joshua McGuire (Guildenstern) Photography: Manuel Harlan

Couture culture

theatre

Rosencrantz & Guildenstern are Dead

Tom Stoppard’s Rosencrantz & Guildenstern are Dead returns to The Old Vic for a 50th anniversary celebratory production. Set against the backdrop of Shakespeare’s Hamlet, this existential situation comedy sees two hapless minor characters from the original play – Rosencrantz (Daniel Radcliffe) and Guildenstern (Joshua McGuire) – take centre stage. In between recitals of Shakepeare’s script, the childhood friends of prince Hamlet stumble through the action to hilarious results. Do not miss this star-studded performance of the Absurdist play that launched Stoppard’s theatrical career. From £12, until 29 April, The Old Vic, oldvictheatre.com

“If you are a disciple of one of those caloriecounters who turn the joys of eating into a form of punishment, close this book at once; it is too lively, too aggressive, and far too impertinent for you.” Salvador Dalí’s words set the scene for a decadent affair of food and Surrealism in the tasteful reprint of Les Dîners de Gala. The Spanish artist was also renowned for hosting flamboyant dinner parties and here he reveals some of the sensual, imaginative and exotic elements that made up his notorious gatherings. Recipes are accompanied by illustrations as well as extravagant musings on subjects such as dinner conversation. A night in for dinner won’t ever be the same again. Les Dîners de Gala by Salvador Dalí, £44.99, taschen.com

image ©Salvador Dalí. Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres, 2016

Regulars

top picks Quirky kitchens

images courtesy of gsp studios

Must-haves for a budding cuisinier

#1 Chopping board, £70, tomdixon.net

FILM

Mad to be Normal

ad To Be Normal reveals the true story of the pioneering Scottish psychiatrist R.D. Laing (David Tennant) and his attempt to change perceptions of mental health. Working out of Kingsley Hall in East London throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Laing performed various daring experiments on people who were

diagnosed as mentally disturbed. His unorthodox methods involved experimenting with LSD on his patients and practising forms of self-healing, causing outrage and controversy within the medical community. A fascinating insight into therapy methods that have shaped the systems we live with today. In cinemas from 6 April

#2 Michel and André Bras cheese knife, £89, forge-de-laguiole.com

#3 Peugeot pepper mill, £155, conranshop.co.uk

Whether you’re a fan of an English Earl Grey or a Chinese oolong, take care of your tea in this Lotusier humidor #4 Saucepan, £135, mackenzie-childs.com

#5 Tray, £975, l-objet.com

From £7,000, available from Thomas Goode, 19 South Audley Street, W1K, lotusier.com

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Local news A butterfly ball

The annual Caudwell Children Butterfly Ball attracts some of the biggest musical names in the world, including Elton John, Rod Stewart, Lionel Richie and Kylie Minogue. World-class entertainment accompanies fine dining and a charity auction with sought-after prizes. Since its launch ten years ago, the charity has provided £37 million worth of services to more than 20,000 disabled children and their families, such as mobility equipment, therapies and treatments, as well as special trips to Disney World, Florida, through Destination Dreams. Book tickets to this year’s event at The Grosvenor House Hotel on Park Lane to be part of the action. 25 May, events@caudwellchildren.com, caudwellchildren.com/butterfly-ball

Keeping house Nothing beats dining al fresco, but when you are caught in between meetings, there’s never enough time. The IN OUT Food Court has solved all our problems. It is situated in the gated area outside Cambridge House, the Grade I-listed building formerly used by The Naval and Military Club (known as The In & Out), and provides a delightful selection of midday snacks. Choose from a waffle stall, a drinks van, hog roast or fish and chips. Open Tues-Thurs (10am-5pm), and Fri- Sat (10am-6pm), The IN OUT Food Court, Cambridge House, 94 Piccadilly, W1J

In Association with The Residents’ Society of Mayfair & St James’s Committee Members

Chair

Secretary

(Policy & Traffic)

(Crossrail & Finance)

Lois Peltz

Richard Cutt

Planning Applications Ronald Cottee (Planning)

Regulars

Xavier Rousset Owner of Café & Wine Comptoir that opens on 21 April

N. Peal’s new home There isn’t a well-dressed lord or lady who doesn’t have a cashmere cardy, jumper or scarf as a wardrobe staple – and most probably it comes from cashmere king N. Peal. The company has opened its fifth store on 23 Brook Street and is already showcasing its Spring/ Summer 2017 collection of muted colours, alongside its other shop in Burlington Arcade. If it was good enough for Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant, it’s good enough for us. N. Peal, 23 Brook Street, W1K, npeal.com

What’s the concept? Breakfast in the morning with artisan coffee and a wine bar in the evening. Very much an all-day place for local workers and residents. Can you tell us about your experience in the wine industry? I’ve been doing this for over 20 years now, from chief sommelier at Hotel du Vin to head sommelier at the Michelin-starred Belmont Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. Which wines are on offer? We have around 80 wines and champagnes. There’s a great selection of burgundy, which I think could be a firm Mayfair favourite. Who should we get to know on your team? Sabrina, the manager, who used to manage 28º–50º for me and also Social Wine & Tapas not far from us on St Christopher’s Place. 21-22 Weighhouse Street, W1K, comptoir-cafe-and-wine.co.uk

Membership

Howard Evans

(Events & Membership)

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Summer soirée Forget April showers: start planning your summer social calendar. The Residents’ Society of Mayfair & St James’s Summer Garden Party is set to be at the top of the list with an array of stalls, magicians, selfie mirrors, and a few knick-knacks for the fashion conscious. The ticketed event is open to residents, those who work in the area and their friends. Book now to enjoy an evening of drinks, canapés, a barbecue, live music, a casino and a fun raffle. 14 June, 6pm-9pm, Mount Street Gardens. Tickets are £30 for RSMSJ members and £35 for non-members, inclusive of all food and drink. events@rsmsj.com, rsmsj.com

Police

Marie-Louise Burrows

Licensing

Derek Stratton

FIX UP,

LOOK SHARP No one can model vintage slacks as well as the unwittingly dapper Bill Nighy. Hannah Lemon talks to the actor about the 1940s wardrobe for his new film Their Finest and where to buy the best undershorts

“T

hey were looking for someone to play a chronically selfabsorbed, pompous actor in his declining years, and they thought of me.” It’s a line Bill Nighy has been delivering with aplomb on the press circuit for Their Finest over the last few months, and I ruin the punch line by saying half the joke. But Nighy doesn’t seem to mind as he chatters about his latest flick. Their Finest is a period drama following Catrin Cole (Gemma Arterton), a mild Welsh woman making it as a career girl during the Second World War. As a budding scriptwriter, she is employed to make a piece of positive propaganda during The Blitz about the miracle of Dunkirk. The film showcases the best of British: Sam Claflin plays the love interest, while Jeremy Irons, Richard E. Grant, Henry Goodman and Helen McCrory all make brief appearances. Yet, it is Nighy’s Ambrose Hilliard – a haughty veteran actor enlisted to play drunk Uncle Frank

in the short film – who steals the show. His commanding attitude, twinkling eye and endearing self-importance bring the script to life. Plus, Nighy looks glamorously at home in an array of 1940s finely tailored suits. “That’s when trousers were trousers,” he jokes. “I sort of think that everything has been downhill since then.” Pocket squares, three-piece suits, classic striped shirts, and silks scarves – the character’s vintage accessories seem to be something Nighy wouldn’t mind donning off set. Filmed in East London, the scenes provide a brief snapshot of life in a war-torn capital, and the few houses and streets that survived the bombing were used for filming. It heightens the nostalgia for the period – a time that brought a new wave of feminism and an intense sense of unity for those left at home. “People think of it as quite a sexy time,” remarks Nighy in his familiar droll tone. “Because nobody knew who was going to be alive. I think people made the most of that.”

INTERVIEW

“Especially Ambrose Hilliard,” I chuckle, thinking of the character’s soft spot for the ladies. “Well, Ambrose did his best,” agrees Nighy. The 67 year old is famed for his comic timing, whether it’s for the old rocker Billy Mack in Love Actually, the time-travelling dad in About Time, or a tentacled sea captain in the second instalment of Pirates of the Caribbean. When I ask if this quickwitted, dry delivery has always come so naturally to him, he reminds me that he didn’t get offered these roles until quite late in his career. After a stint at Guildford School of Acting, he started in theatre, performing plays at Liverpool’s Everyman and the National Theatre. “I’ve worked with some of the best joke writers in the world,” he says, “including David Hare, Tom Stoppard and Harold Pinter. The phenomenon of being able to stand on stage and just play with time a little bit, and arrange for a thousand people to laugh at the same time becomes endlessly fascinating. It gets to be addictive.”

Looking back, Nighy says there was a moment when he would have jacked his career in to buy a VW van

image © Featureflash Photo Agency / shutterstock, inc.

However, the difficult and lengthy process to ‘making it’ took its toll on Nighy and it lead to what he has previously dubbed an “unhealthy relationship” with alcohol. Sobriety found him around 25 years ago and he has stayed that way ever since. Then in 2003, at the age of 53, he became an almost overnight star when he won two Baftas: one for a newspaper editor in the TV drama State of Play, and the other for his part in Love Actually. Looking back, Nighy says there was a moment when he would have jacked it all in to buy a VW camper van, paint it funny colours and drive to Nepal. Because that’s what people did then, Nighy explains, when you ran out of ideas – “and I ran out of ideas quite regularly”. Fortunately, his father stepped in and persuaded him to continue. Nighy recalls a wonderful story when he was interviewed by David Frost on a show that he and his father used to watch together before he passed

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away when Nighy was 26. “At the end of the interview, [Frost] said, ‘I understand we have someone to thank for you continuing to be an actor.’ I didn’t quite know what he meant. And he said, ‘Didn’t your father...?’ And I said, ‘Oh, yes.’ And he said: ‘What was your father’s name?’ And I said, ‘Alfred.’ Then he looked down the barrel of the camera and said, ‘Alfred Nighy, thank you.’” Previous articles have painted Nighy as a bit of a loner, spending any free time strolling around London on his own, often through Mayfair. After separating from Diana Quick (with whom he has a daughter, Mary Nighy, also an actor) back in 2008 after 27 years together, his home must be a quiet one. But when he is averaging four or five films a year, plus voiceovers and theatre performances on top of that, it’s not surprising one would seek solace from the chaos of it all. When I speak to him these preconceptions seem irreverent. Charming and polite, he effuses elements of the characters he plays. It may just be for my benefit, but I enjoy it nonetheless. I tell him that I went to see his West End performance of Skylight, which later transferred to Broadway and in which he starred alongside Carey Mulligan. I ask if, after all this time (he apparently used to suffer from terrible stage fright), he still gets nervous before a show? “Man, oh man, oh man. Yeah. Opening a play, when all the critics write your report in the national newspapers the next day – or these days on social media or whatever it might be – it’s as nerve racking as anything that ever happens to me. Any actor will tell you it doesn’t get any better.”

Does he still read reviews? “No. Never. You read reviews when you are young because you crave praise so badly and then you get burned. Then, if you’ve got sense, you never read a review again. They’re of no use to me. They’re not going to instruct me or anything. They’re either going to damage me, or if they tell me I’m particularly remarkable at that bit in the second act, it means that every time I get to that bit in the second act I’m supposed to be remarkable. I don’t want to isolate moments.” Recent photos and footage online show that a ten-minute short film of Love Actually is underway for Comic Relief, masterminded by Nick Curtis. “I think everyone’s done their bit now,” Nighy tells me. “It was very nice to see everybody. We had a reunion dinner where everybody came – except people who physically couldn’t be there.” I take the latter comment to refer to the sad departure of the late Alan Rickman.

clockwise from right: bill nighy on set for their finest; with Gemma Arterton; with helen mcCrory; as uncle frank with sam claflin and gemma arterton; all images courtesy of lionsgate

INTERVIEW

What was it like reprising the role of Billy Mack? “It was a bit daunting at first, because I had to get into those trousers,” he jokes. “I had to put a few chains on, silk scarves, a bit of leather and all that sort of malarkey. I haven’t done that for a while. And you think – I must be too old for this now – but it was fun. It was nice and we had a few laughs.” He begins to tell me about the extraordinary pair of shoes he wears in the film that will be put up for auction in aid of the charity. “I don’t know whether I’m even supposed to tell you that,” he adds. “They’re deeply, what you’d call, ‘rock’ and they’re electric coloured. And they’re huge.” Aside from late-life-crisis footwear, Nighy’s actual wardrobe is more sartorially aligned. He names Martin Nicholls at Alfred Dunhill for tailored suits as well as Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row: “I’m partial to their house style”; while he never wears anything but Margaret Howell shirts: “I love the fact that they’re classically English. They’re soft and relaxed”; and he heads to Church’s on the corner of Conduit Street for shoes. “And this is a scoop,” Nighy pauses for dramatic effect, “I get my undershorts from J. Crew.” I laugh. “You are the only person who knows that Hannah.” Sorry, Bill. The cat’s out of the bag. Their Finest is in cinemas from 21 April

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COURVOISIER.COM

Exceptional presentation is no longer the reserve of the Michelin star chef. Melissa Emerson explores the new wave of food and photography lovers dishing up works of art

top right: Photography by Matteo Stucchi, from Visual Feast, ©Gestalten 2017; right and overleaf: dishes photographed by Ann Charlott Ommedal, courtesy of bomPas & PARR

he appetite for capturing what’s on our plates is as insatiable as ever. Cast an eye around your average trattoria or brasserie and you’ll see someone deliberating over what filter to give their amuse-bouche. Food styling used to be reserved for chefs, but with the rise of social media sites, it has become a hobby for the masses. An artfully photographed cookbook is now just as likely to be found on the coffee table than in the kitchen, and even the humblest of food stuffs have been given the Instagram treatment. Food stylist and photographer Adeline Waugh’s snaps of mermaid and unicorn toast topped with coloured cream cheeses and sprinkles have earned her thousands of likes on social media (@vibrantandpure), while online platforms, such as The Art of Plating, which is “devoted to the exhibition of gastronomy as a form of high art” continue to thrive. In celebration of food styling and its evolution, publisher Gestalten has released Visual Feast: Contemporary Food Staging and Photography. Images in the glossy compendium range from pared-back close-ups of a single ingredient to dramatic

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prop-strewn tableaus. The book acknowledges the role social media has played in boosting the popularity of food imagery, suggesting that the often short-lived crazes it generates give stylists and photographers never-ending sources of inspiration. Fashion and film are key themes throughout the book. Artist Yeonju Sung deconstructs food into strands that she reassembles to take on the form of clothing, while photographer Heami Lee recreates food moments from iconic films including Groundhog Day and Beetlejuice in photographic series Scenes. Goldsmith Kia Utzon-Frank even uses a specialist marzipan printer to transform her cakes into marble sculptures. From the bookshelf to the newsstand, contributors to specialist food and culture magazine The Gourmand hail from the design and fashion realms, too. This, the editors claim, brings a fresh perspective to the culinary narrative, taking it beyond the predictable formula of interviews, reviews and recipes into social commentary

“Researchers have demonstrated how changes to the visual appearance of a dish can shape people’s expectations”

territory. Excess, overconsumption and its consequences were at the centre of a recent Disaster Tables shoot (pictured above), which depicts scenes including a tsunami-like wave of caviar and a meringue-topped dessert, cracking as if pulled apart by an earthquake. Environmental considerations and politics are on the menu at this year’s Pink Lady® Food Photographer of the Year competition. The Politics of Food category, for example, looks to the wider context of food in society, from harvesting it to

Above: photography by Aaron Tilley; Far right: Photography by Sam Hofman; both from Visual Feast, ©Gestalten 2017; right: dishes (as before)

celebrating with it. More than 7,000 images were entered in 2016 and this year’s competition has been similarly inundated with entries, with the winners set to be announced on 25 April. Professionals aside, classes aimed at the aspiring food stylist are also on the rise. Marylebone’s organic farm shop and café Daylesford runs a Food Styling Class at its Gloucestershire cookery school. Geared towards teaching participants how to use imagery to promote their blog or social media channel, it covers lessons in lighting,

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fitting that professional photographers such as Catherine Frawley and Emily Quinton have taken their food photography and styling course digital, teaching students via a series of online videos and written lessons from their Makelight site. The course combines both photography and styling skills and highlights the increasing number of food stylists acting as their own photographers. The rise of bloggers is ultimately influencing the way chefs think in the kitchen. Software engineer and food blogging enthusiast Adam Goldberg attributes this change in chefs’ attitudes to their awareness of how their dishes are increasingly being picked apart, reimagined and shared online. “They’re starting to consider how a dish will look when it gets out on Instagram or other social sites,” he said, speaking to Wired. Others such as Sam Bompas and Harry Parr of Bompas & Parr make their own rules. What began as a jelly-making business has grown into an entire creative studio that crafts some of the most theatrical food experiences in the world, from the interactive Dinner at the Twits (a banquet marking Roald Dahl’s 100th birthday), to a Valentine’s Day anatomical whisky tasting, where different blends were licked and sipped directly from the contours of bodies the same

camera angles and props, as well as focusing on styling with real rather than artificial or inedible ingredients – something that was not always possible in the past. The tricks of the trade used to include glazing meat with motor oil and substituting mashed potato for ice cream and PVA glue for milk, examples which are all captured in set designer and creative director Sandy Suffield’s Faking It series. With online platforms such as Instagram key to the sharing of styled food images, it seems only

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age as the spirits (performance art at its bravest and most bizarre). They have cooked with lightening, plasma and lava, made glow-inthe-dark ice cream and crafted a 200-course tasting dinner, served over 24 hours (pictured right). “Jamming with other professionals and seeing what they can bring to food is always a pleasure. In the past we’ve worked with perfumers, pyrotechnicians, molecular biologists, magicians and animal handlers,” says Bompas, of their interdisciplinary approach. The duo’s inspiration comes from the most unlikely sources. “Bella Hadid came to me in a dream and said: ‘You need to make a cocktail bar

clockwise from bottom far left: photography by Michael Crichton and Leigh Macmillan; photography by Metz+Racine; photography by Luke Kirwan; painting by Eric Wert; all from Visual Feast, ©Gestalten 2017; dishes (as before)

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where all the drinks are made by mermen’. The result was Beyond the Waterfall at Westfield London, which featured a boat-up bar, live jellyfish and a host of swarthy mermen mixologists. Dreams are a legitimate source of creativity,” he adds. A journal article contributed to by the University of Oxford’s Department of Experimental Psychology suggests science is the next way in which boundaries in food styling will be pushed. “Researchers have demonstrated how changes to the visual appearance of a dish can shape people’s expectations, resulting in changes in consumption behaviour and enjoyment of the food, and even influence our brains’ response to a given taste. It is our contention that what has up until now primarily been an ‘art’ (of plating) could easily be turned into a science,” the report reads. Whether this is pursued or not, food is one of the few true necessities that we all share, and as it happens to be a photogenic one at that, it is inevitably a major source of storytelling. With social media sites now allowing people to share ideas, as well as images easily, it is little wonder that food styling has reached new heights and amassed many devoted followers. Excuse me while I get back to Instagramming my lunch. Visual Feast: Contemporary Food Staging and Photography, £40, gestalten.com; bompasandparr.com

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“Mayfair’s best kept secret”

info@hush.co.uk Telephone: 020 7659 1500 Fax: 020 7659 1501 No.8 Lancashire Court, Brook Street, London, W1S 1EY

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Innerplace’s Nick Savage catches up with six of Mayfair’s top maître d’s to get a feel for what goes on when diners aren’t looking

R from left: Rakesh Nambiar, general manager at Gymkhana; Emmanuel Landré general manager at Le Gavroche; Agnieszka Josko, restaurant manager at ormer; Gordana Sherriff, maître d’ at Scott’s; Gina Glennon, maître d’ at 34 Mayfair; Jesus Adorno, director of Le Caprice

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estaurants in Mayfair aren’t quite like other restaurants. Many of them are serious affairs, laden with history and freighted with power; the perfect settings for public spectacle and, every so often, scandal. Dining in a Mayfair institution can offer front row seats from which to watch greater mortals unwind, but admission is often subject to the caprice of the maître d’. As friends they make great allies, but if you’ve arrived half cut without a reservation they will be polite yet resolute adversaries. With their impeccable manners and adroit charm, it can be easy to forget that behind the social graces is a hardworking human being.

Like most jobs in London, working as front of house can be highly stressful with challenging hours that usually go on longer than expected. At Gymkhana, general manager Rakesh Nambiar notes that “a normal week is 48-55 hours; it all depends on what the business demands”. However, it’s often not the hours that are as taxing so much as being overbooked or fielding outlandish requests. Nambiar, for example, was once asked to prepare Gymkhana’s signature seven-course tasting menu with the omission of all spices, as the diner claimed to be intolerant of Indian seasoning. Emmanuel Landré of Le Gavroche formerly worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant in the French countryside owned by Georges Blanc. Upon arriving in Mayfair, he was struck by its vibrancy, extolling its “enormous variety in cuisine and bustling streets”. He, too, has had his fair share of tricky customers.

“I love the fast pace in Mayfair. There’s nowhere quite like it” He tells a charming story about two men who once came to Le Gavroche for a 14-hour lunch. “They came in at 11am for a tour of the restaurant and the kitchen, they sat down for lunch at 12pm sharp. By 5pm they were upstairs at the bar for coffee and brandies. At 7pm one of them turned to me and said, ‘Emmanuel! Do you have any space for us to have a light supper?’ I sat them down for dinner and at 10pm one of them asked me what time it was. When I said 10pm, he turned ash white. ‘I must call my wife! She’s been waiting for me since 6pm!’” To try to calm the situation, Michel Roux Jr called the man’s wife personally and explained that her husband would be with her as soon as possible. “They were still with us for a few more hours. I must tell you that those two men brought their wives back a few times in the years that followed and we always sat them at the same table. I do believe one of them is divorced now...” Agnieszka Josko moved over with Shaun Rankin from the original Ormer on the Channel Islands to the new outpost in Mayfair, explaining that “it’s just not comparable to Mayfair, more

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: GYMKHANA, IMAGE BY NIALL CLUTTON; ORMER; LE GAVROCHE

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relaxed. But I love the fast pace here. There’s nowhere quite like it.” Josko, also wading in on the topic of extreme requests, says she was asked to order a particular vegetarian dish for a guest’s girlfriend from a different restaurant, which she duly refused. Meanwhile, Gordana Sherriff, maître d’ at Scott’s, recounts one such demand: “A lady wanted to play the Happy Birthday song to her niece with her bagpipes while doing a march around the restaurant.” As a maître d’, the name of the game apparently is abstaining from dropping names, however many of the most trying situations involve dealing with the rich and famous. Gina Glennon of 34 Mayfair recounts “a major international singer asked us to clear the restaurant of guests during service – some people were right in the middle of their meals. This particular gentleman assumed that we would grant his wish. We didn’t. We politely asked him to leave, having relieved him of the menu he was

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CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: 34 MAYFAIR; SCOTT’S IMAGE BY PAUL WINCH-FURNESS; LE CAPRICE

holding. It was one of those moments when the spotlight was definitely on me. All my colleagues seemed to have melted into the background to let me take centre stage.” Similarly, Josko explains that “at Ormer Mayfair we recently had an A-list celebrity visit with several demands and quite a large entourage, they all had a wonderful time. But that is the norm in the industry, you can’t get stressed out easily and must do what you can to accommodate.”

“A major international singer asked us to clear the restaurant in the middle of service” Sometimes it doesn’t matter if they’re from Hollywood or the capital’s finest banks; a handful of wealthy diners feel a sense of entitlement nonetheless. Jesus Adorno, the director of Le Caprice, remembers when “a very tall and strong middle aged banker threatened to beat me up in the middle of the restaurant. I somehow managed to calm him down… thank the Lord!” Sherriff’s nightmare scenario at Scott’s is an overbooked night, and the most demanding evening of Landré’s career was having 115 people show up when a party of 95 was booked. He reminisces that “it was incredibly stressful and we had to set up tables at the bar upstairs and try to find enough seats to sit everybody.” During a busy lunch service at Gymkhana, the

restaurant once lost all of its gas and power supply. Luckily Nambiar had the presence of mind to direct most people to their sister restaurant, Trishna. And, of course, they all have their special prescriptions for blowing off steam. Glennon prefers a breath of fresh air and a blast of Girls Aloud, while Sherriff opts for “a glass of SaintVéran at the end of the day, unless it is Lent of course”. Landré retains his sanity with regular trips to the gym. For Adorno: “a little tour round St James’s Park always does the trick. There are excellent people-watching opportunities, but if I’m not in the mood for that, I zone into the nature.” Regardless of what it is, having a method to deal with the madness is indispensable when working as front-of-house in one of Mayfair’s most illustrious restaurants. Innerplace is London’s personal lifestyle concierge. Membership provides complimentary access to the finest nightclubs, the best restaurants and top private members’ clubs. Innerplace also offers priority bookings, VIP invitations and updates on the latest openings. Membership from £50 a month. innerplace.co.uk

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udging by International Women’s Day, women the world over seem united in a common cause. This is a similar message being spread by Pomellato in its new advertising campaign to celebrate its 50th anniversary. The fine jewellery brand called on six independent female figures in a bid to pay tribute to diversity and authenticity. They include nutritionist Rosemary Ferguson, artist Anh Duong, brand adviser Helen Nonini, art curator Caroline Corbetta, writer Pihla Hintikka and model Larissa Hofmann (pictured wearing the M’ama non m’ama range). Pomellato has also released a new collection, Ritratto (Italian for ‘portrait’), which incorporates the antique portrait cut used in Indian jewellery to cover miniature paintings. Ritratto, from £2,180-£8,100, pomellato.com

Women of the

Larissa Hofmann, Pomellato Global Advertising Campaign, photography: Peter Lindbergh

world

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Zero hour

Diamonds in the ruff As part of William & Son’s patronage of the National Portrait Gallery and lead sponsorship of the Portrait Gala (a special annual event that sees funds raised to support the gallery’s work and research, which is taking place on 28 March), the gold and silversmith has designed a jewellery collection to mark the occasion. Drawing on one of the gallery’s most famous paintings, the instantly recognisable Ditchley portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, the necklace and earring set features ethically-sourced aquamarine stones surrounded by 11.83-carats of baguette-cut diamonds – inspired by the traditional Elizabethan ruff that the monarch wears in the painting. POA, available from spring, 34-36 Bruton Street, W1J, williamandson.com

Jewellery

In one of her last projects before her death, architect Zaha Hadid reinterpreted Bulgari’s most iconic ring: the B.zero1. The piece, which was originally inspired by the Roman Colosseum, has been through countless redesigns since its creation in 1999, yet this is perhaps the most dramatic to date. Its trademark motifs – the tubogas, a flexible band of sleek contours produced without soldering, and the Bulgari double logo – still feature, but Hadid daringly deconstructed the central looping band to incorporate her free-flowing, dynamic aesthetic. The ring is available in four versions: a four-band in pink gold, a three-band in white or pink gold and a pendant in pink gold. From £1,580, 168 New Bond Street, W1S, bulgari.com

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WORDS: OLIVIA SHARPE

Still waters In these politically turbulent times, at the A/W17 New York Fashion Week shows, the industry drew comment. Political statements shouted out from T-shirts bearing slogans such as ‘I am an Immigrant’ and ‘We are all Human Beings’ (Prabal Gurung and Creatures of Comfort, respectively). Elsewhere, however, some brands have chosen to inject a note of calm in such chaos – cue De Beers. The brand has added three new pendants to its Enchanted Lotus collection, capturing the serenity and beauty of this ancient flower. Carnelian, lapis lazuli and jade have been embedded within micro-pavé lotus motifs. The chains can also be worn in reverse, revealing a delicate single round brilliant diamond. Carnelian and lapiz lazuli pendants, £2,425 each; Jade pendant, £3,250, available from 1 May, debeers.co.uk

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Drama queen Many jewels shone at Paris Couture Week in March, but those that arguably sparkled brightest were those in Chopard’s Garden of Kalahari collection. The jewellery has been created from the exceptional 342-carat rough diamond of flawless colour sourced in Botswana’s Karowe mine a year ago. Craftsmen were given the arduous task of cutting the stone into 23 diamonds: five weigh more than five carats and are all D-colour and flawless. These were then set into six pieces – two rings, a necklace, bracelet, pair of earrings and a secret watch – each representing a different flower. POA, Chopard, chopard.com

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Born to be

wilde The face of Mappin & Webb and one of the stars of BBC hit period drama Poldark, British actress Gabriella Wilde talks jewellery, life in the country and working with Aidan Turner

espite first impressions, Gabriella Wilde is no shrinking violet. Granted, with her angelic features and softly spoken voice, it would be an easy assumption to make. However, having pursued two of the most competitive industries, modelling and acting, she is by no means timid, and for those of you who watched the second series of the BBC’s hit period drama Poldark, in which she plays the feisty Caroline Penvenen, you perhaps wouldn’t be surprised. Speaking to 27-year-old Wilde, her slightly reserved nature undoubtedly makes her come across as more reticent than some of her acting peers and she admits that she has never been one “to shout the loudest in the room”. And yet, this suggests that she is far more selfassured than many others in an industry that seems to be riddled with self-doubt and low self-esteem. Her most recent role as the brand ambassador of Mappin & Webb is more in line with Wilde’s work to date, having worked as a model before becoming an actress. With her natural elegance and poise – no doubt born from her English aristocratic heritage – Wilde was the ideal choice for the jeweller, which has more

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Opposite page: Mappin & Webb 2017 campaign starring Gabriella Wilde, photography: Matthew Shave This page, from top: Floresco white gold Bombe ring, £7,000; Carrington blue topaz and diamond ring, £2,750; Carrington cushion-cut blue topaz drop earrings, £2,750; Floresco diamond & sapphire cuff, £40,000

than 241 years of history and a Royal Warrant that was first granted by Queen Victoria in 1897. And the actress needed no introduction. “I practically grew up with Mappin & Webb,” she comments. “My mum knows the brand for its jewellery and my dad for its silver. It is one of those brands that I feel has such a long-standing history.” Wilde’s roots are similarly tied to English tradition and her family lineage can be traced back to Charles II. She is the daughter of businessman John AnstrutherGough-Calthorpe, former chairman of the Watermark Group and grandson of Sir Fitzroy Anstruther-Gough-Calthorpe, 1st Baronet. Her mother, Vanessa Hubbard, was also a model when she was younger and sat for David Bailey CBE. Wilde changed her moniker when she became an actress (her agent suggested it after coming across Oscar Wilde’s name on her bookshelf), but otherwise remains very close to her family. With both parents having children from previous marriages, the actress is blessed with many siblings: “I have hundreds of brothers and sisters, so my fondest memories are of growing up and playing with them in the country,” she says, smiling. Her sister Isabella and ‘unofficial’ stepsister Cressida Bonas – while no

blood relation, Bonas’ mother was once married to Wilde’s father – have similarly pursued acting careers. Describing herself as “incredibly shy” when she was younger, Wilde never considered acting, but at 14 was talent-spotted by Naomi Campbell. She joined Campbell’s agency, Premier Model Management, and the teenager soon found herself swept up in the frenzy of the fashion world, fronting campaigns for Burberry, Topshop and Abercrombie & Fitch. “It was such a mad way to start within that industry,” she recalls. “I did a few shoots with Isabella Blow, which was amazing, then I met Naomi and she took me to her agency. I think I just got swept up in the ride of it all.” Wilde also caught the attention of the press, which attempted to brand her as an ‘It’ girl and named her the second most eligible girl in Britain. However, she rejected these labels and by 18, had decided to walk away from modelling. “I stopped because it didn’t make me happy and I didn’t feel comfortable doing it,” she says. “I think you need to have a very strong personality to exist in that world and I wasn’t prepared for it.” Her next step was to enrol in a fine art course at City & Guilds of London Art School, but she wasn’t there long before realising she wanted to act. Having never even appeared in so much as a school play, this decision came as a surprise to her family and friends. “I still have friends who can’t understand how I could be an actress because normally I’m quite introverted,” she says. “It was never a route I had expected to go down, but was something I found I was interested in.” In 2009, aged 20, Wilde made her acting debut in the film St Trinian’s 2: The Legend of Fritton’s Gold, appearing alongside Rupert Everett, Colin Firth and Talulah Riley. Shortly after this, the actress appeared in an episode of Doctor Who, a role which saw her reunite with her St Trinian’s co-star David Tennant, and then The Three Musketeers alongside Matthew Macfadyen and Orlando Bloom. Her next big film – an adaptation of Stephen King’s supernatural horror novel, Carrie – was a box office success. Her latest role in Poldark, which has won over millions of fans since it premiered in 2015, is possibly her most diverse to date. She plays the

manipulative niece of wealthy landowner Ray Penvenan (John Nettles) – a far cry from one of the posh totties in St Trinian’s or the simpering girl next door in romantic film Endless Love (in which she starred alongside Alex Pettyfer in 2014). “[My character] is really fun,” says Wilde. “She’s not what she seems and is very naughty and quick-witted. She’s a bit of a feminist in her own way for that time and while she’s restricted as an heiress, she’s still feisty.” For Wilde, acting is far more rewarding and “creatively fulfilling” than modelling, as it challenges her to explore a different side to herself. “It’s an incredibly exciting thing to do. Every job is different and the things you learn and discover when creating a person are endless. I’m not a very outgoing person, but I think there’s a difference in being myself and playing someone else. I really separate the two.” The actress finds this process very liberating, and explains how she always has to identify with her character before committing to the role: “Sometimes I read a role and just don’t relate to it on any level and so it’s not something I want to do. It has to come from somewhere truthful.” It has been confirmed that Wilde will reprise the role of Caroline in the third series of Poldark, which is due to air later this year. Aside from evolving her character and starring alongside Aidan Turner (who she describes as “a really lovely guy”), the other aspect of Poldark that Wilde loves is filming in Devon. Having grown up in Hampshire, the actress’ heart lies in the country, which is why after four years of living in Notting Hill she decided to uproot to Somerset, where she now lives with her husband, Alan Pownall (lead singer of electronic band Pale), and her two sons: Sasha Blue and Shiloh Silva. She may look the epitome of a girl’s girl, but again, Wilde is full of surprises, describing herself as a “real tomboy” and often finds herself wearing pieces from her husband’s wardrobe which, with two small boys under the age of five, is no doubt very sensible. “Don’t get me wrong, I love clothes,” she says. “My favourite brands are probably Céline, The Row and Chloé. But day-to-day I dress quite practically. I live in black jeans, and I like wearing T-shirts and jumpers.” The red carpet is the time when she feels she can dress up and show her feminine side, but

“I have friends who can’t understand how I could be an actress because I’m quite introverted”

COLLECTION ALL IMAGES: Mappin & Webb 2017 campaign starring Gabriella Wilde, photography: Matthew Shave

even then, she stands firmly by the principle of “dressing comfortably and being yourself” as “there’s nothing worse than being in an environment and feeling unsure of what you’re wearing.” By keeping her work and private life separate and having learnt from a young age to ignore any diatribe the press might print, Wilde finds it easier balancing her career with motherhood, although admits it is sometimes a struggle.

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“It’s important to me to spend as much time with my children as possible, but it’s also important for me to work. It’s hard, but fortunately I’m very lucky to have a very supportive husband and family, and a job that allows me to bring them with me a lot. That’s a luxury a lot of mothers don’t have, so I’m very grateful.” mappinandwebb.com

Return of the

minute repeater As time has moved from our wrists to the smartphones in our pockets, mechanical watches have survived by appealing to our romantic side. So it’s fitting that one of the world’s most romantic watchmakers should revive the most romantic complication of them all, writes Richard Brown

atches are to timekeeping what floppy disks are to storing data. Like DVDs and Microsoft Internet Explorer, mechanical timepieces should be consigned to memory. Things made of cogs, gears and wheels belong in museums. Weird, then, that between 2000 and 2015, the mechanical component of Switzerland’s watch industry more than trebled in size. Despite two years of contraction, last year the country still exported £11.8 billion’s worth of wristwear powered by a spring. Devices, that is, that serve their primary purpose less ably than the digital clock on your microwave oven. One way of explaining the paradox is by considering the story of the minute repeater. As chiming watches conceived in the 17th century as a way of telling the time in the dark, today repeaters serve the same function as the Corinthian columns on the façade of St. Peter’s Basilica; just as those decorative pillars serve to represent the ideals of one type of art form, minute repeaters embody the zenith of another.

What is a minute repeater? A repeating watch is one that chimes the time on demand, rather than a sonnerie, which chimes the time in passing, much like a mantel clock. Typically, minute repeaters are activated by pushing a sliding lever, usually located at ten o’clock. Repeater watches sound the time to varying degrees of precision: a quarter-repeater will strike the number of hours followed by the number of quarter-hours; a minute-repeater will chime hours followed by quarter-hours followed by minutes.

How does a minute repeater work? Once the slide lever is pushed, mechanical ‘feelers’ read the time from the position of gears. Two hardened-steel hammers then strike the time on two differently-tuned gongs. Minute repeaters chime three different sounds – the hours are typically signalled by a low tone, the quarter-hours by a sequence of two tones and the minutes by a high tone. If the time is 02:49, for example, the minute repeater will sound two low tones, representing two hours, three sequence tones, representing 45 minutes, and four high tones, representing four minutes.

A dying art form The first patent filed for an on-demand striker, or ‘repeater’, was granted to Englishman Daniel Quare in 1687. The first minute repeater – Quare’s sounded only hours and quarter-hours – is credited to his compatriot, Thomas Mudge, around 1720. The complication evolved under Abraham-Louis Breguet, who, in 1783, created the first striking repeater to be operated by a gong-spring rather than a bell. In 1899, Audemars Piguet became the first watchmaker to make a minute repeater small enough to be worn on the wrist. In the next century, the minute repeater became the magnum opus in every watchmaker’s arsenal. But two World Wars and the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s hardly created the perfect market conditions for the most expensive and timeconsuming watch in which to thrive. By the 1980s, the minute repeater was all but horological history. Enter Patek Philippe. Determined to bring the art of the repeater back to life, the watchmaker spent the best part of a decade dismantling antiques for clues as to how

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5539G–001

5213G–010

to achieve the perfect chime. Patek Philippe’s first modern repeater was revealed in 1989. Issued to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary, the Calibre 89 incorporated 33 complications, making it the most complicated watch ever made. It was bested by Vacheron Constantin’s Reference 57260 only in 2015, which has 57 complications.

Patek perfection

Calibre 89

Grandmaster Chime

Patek currently offers a dozen non–limited minute repeaters within its family of watches. Manufacturing more than any other the company, the brand has assumed leadership of the most exclusive club in watchmaking. Patek Philippe minute repeaters, says the brand, have to be audibly distinguishable as Patek Philippe minute repeaters. That comes from the top down. Every single piece goes to company president, Thierry Stern, for approval. Whereas a tourbillon might consist of between 60 and 70 components, a minute repeater movement will comprise more like 100. Each one takes between two and three years to make, with one watchmaker working on a timepiece from beginning to end. A good number will be rejected by Stern. These will then have to be taken apart, fine tuned and reassembled by hand.

In the flesh Calibre 89

5208P–001

5216P–001

It’s rare to hear a minute repeater in action. Only around three examples pass through Patek Philippe’s Bond Street boutique each year, during which time the brand might make 20 pieces in total. Once the gongs are set, a watch is sent to a vacuum chamber where microphones analyse chimes. A computer will know which parameters the tone of certain calibres and case materials should fall within. If a watch isn’t perfect, a watchmaker must take it apart, file down the gongs, reassemble and retest the piece until it is. On accepting responsibility for the completion of St. Peter’s Basilica, Michelangelo wrote: “I undertake this only for the love of God.” Listening to the enchanting tones of a minute repeater in the flesh, you can see how a watchmaker might approach the manufacturing of one with similar trepidation. patek.com

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collection

Watch news WORDS: RICHARD BROWN

IN BRIEF Bremont to expand Henley-on-Thames HQ Following the launch of its brand new 40mm Airco pilot’s collection, Bremont has announced planning approval for a huge new Henley facility. The 1,800 sq m space will take the brand one step closer to its dream of manufacturing its own movement.

Roger Dubuis opens Harrods flagship Roger Dubuis’ first London store landed in Harrods in March. Two unique timepieces are available exclusively in the boutique: the mesmerising Excalibur Knights of the Round Table, and the brand’s pocket watch – the Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument.

Breitling and Swatch Group increase prices in the uk Nine months after Brexit, a range of Swatch brands, including Omega, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton and Certina, increased their prices by around five per cent in March. Breitling increased its UK prices by six per cent.

UK becomes Europe’s largest importer of Swiss watches Between January 2016 and January 2017, Swiss watch exports to the UK rose by 0.9 per cent, confirming Britain’s position as the largest export market in Europe. During the 12-month period, Britain imported watches worth CHF 1.21 billion, almost equal to Japan (CHF 1.26 billion) and China (CHF 1.29 billion).

Richard Mille’s material world Motorsport fanatic and one-man marketing machine Richard Mille introduces a new material to watchmaking, with help from McLaren

ou don’t see many Richard Mille watches. Outside of industry events, I have only ever seen one. It belonged to a Swiss chap employed in crisis management. We were both guests in Verbier’s most exclusive ski chalet – me on a pinchyourself press blag, him on account of being close friends with the chalet’s owner. He had arrived in a Bentley and couldn’t ski. He was here for the party. At dinner, I asked in which type of crisis management he dealt. “The Sepp Blatter and Russian Olympic Committee sort,” he said. An average day for him, he continued, might include flying to Abu Dhabi for an hour-long meeting with a prince

embroiled in torture accusations. Who runs this world? People who own Richard Mille watches. Other clients include Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen. There’s also celebrity venture capitalist Tom Perkins, Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault and Juan Carlos I – the former King of Spain. In 2001, Richard Mille invented a completely new genre of timepiece and he’s spent the preceding years creating the ultimate status signifiers. His latest handiwork is the RM 50-03 McLaren F1. Weighing less than 40 g, it is the lightest mechanical chronograph ever created. The watch incorporates graphene, a material six times lighter than steel, and 200 times as strong. It is the first time graphene, which McLaren is trying to integrate into its F1 cars, has been used in watchmaking – firstly, in the RM 50-03’s case; secondly, within its rubber strap, into which the material has been injected to add toughness. The brand has now unveiled what the production RM 50-03 will look like, updating the model with an orange strap, crown rubber and rehaut (the ring that sits between a watch’s dial and bezel). Production will be limited to 75 pieces. Don’t expect the price to put off the planet’s puppetmasters. RM 50-03 McLaren F1, £996,500, richardmille.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

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art

Liberté, modernité W

Jean Lurçat ceramics, image courtesy of Whitford Fine Art

hile both worked during the first half of the 20th century, Jean Lurçat and Georges Bernède led two very different artistic careers. Lurçat, a popular painter from the School of Paris, focused on tapestries in the 1930s before moving onto ceramics in the 1950s. Bernède, meanwhile, quietly struggled in a conservative bastide near Bordeaux, where his ambition was mocked and his Lyrical Abstraction went long unappreciated. Yet their freedom of expression was equally unhindered, as the latest exhibition at Whitford Fine Art explores: bold abstract ceramics and dramatic gestural paintings sit side by side, including an oval plate by Lurçat that measures a mammoth 32 by 48 cm. French art at its finest. Until 7 April, 6 Duke’s Street, SW1Y, whitfordfineart.com

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Langlands & Bell

Art news words: camilla apcar

Contrary contemporaries Yayoi Kusama and the late Louise Bourgeois were longtime peers, and have been placed in tandem once again by Sotheby’s contemporary art gallery S|2. Bourgeois’ giant, dark sculptures and Kusama’s lively, eclectic installations and drawings make for a striking visual contrast, but their oeuvres are not so dissimilar: the exhibition takes on deep psychological traumas and explores motherhood, sexuality, memory, war and exile. Traumata: Bourgeois/Kusama, until 13 April, 31 St George Street, W1S, sothebys.com

Retrospective views Experimentation was central to Lucio Fontana’s work. Although he is best known for his paintings, a select 15 sculptures and ceramics have been curated to take viewers through the celebrated career of the post-war Italian artist at M&L Fine Art. Featuring both figurative ceramics and his early abstract punctured pieces, the show is both a solid introduction to Fontana and to the era that is continuing to soar at auction. Lucio Fontana: Sculptor – From the Earth to the Cosmos, until 23 May, 15 Old Bond Street, W1, mlfineart.com

What was the inspiration behind Infinite Loop? A whole new generation of architecture that is being built as we speak. The show takes its name from the Apple headquarters in California. What do you hope it will inspire? Wonder and curiosity. We are at a pivotal moment in history. It’s the dawn of the information age and this new reality is being expressed architecturally, artistically and digitally all around us. How do you feel about companies such as Apple? They’re giants who are becoming more powerful by the day. Although their technology is very exciting and enabling, it is also controlling because we have to follow their rules and do things the way they want us to. How do you create the models? We research the building plans and then construct the models by hand from card, wood and paint, before photographing them and drawing into the photos digitally. Why is the new Campus 2 your favourite of these buildings? Its futuristic design fits with Apple’s technological design-led approach. Employees call it the Spaceship. Langlands & Bell: Infinite Loop, 27 April – 3 June, 43 Pall Mall, SW1Y, alancristea.com

clockwise from top: langlands & BEll, Gates Foundation (Seattle) from Infinite Loop, 2016, Archival inkjet in four colour variants (mauve/olive green/pink/rust), Paper and image, 75 x 75cm each, Each colour variant in an edition of ten; langlands & BEll, Apple (Oblique) from Infinite Loop, 2016, Archival inkjet in four colour variants (grey/orange/green/blue), Paper and image, 87 x 74cm each, Each colour variant in an edition of ten; langlands & bell, Nvidia (Santa Clara) from Infinite Loop, 2016, Archival inkjet in four colour variants (blue/orange/purple/yellow), Paper and image 75 x 75cm each, Each colour variant in an edition of ten; Lucio Fontana, Conzetto spaziale, 1960-65, Cuts and graffiti on black clay, 21 x 45 x 21cm, courtesy of M&L Fine Art

The British duo’s next exhibition recreates the futuristic architecture of 21st-century tech giants

art

Prize lots SOLD: £1,805,000 e s t im a t e : £ 8 0 0 , 0 0 0 - £ 1 , 2 0 0 , 0 0 0

Figura de perfil (La Hermana Ana María), Salvador Dalí “The success of this lot was down to a combination of its rarity (only a handful of works from the mid-1920s have come to the market), the significance of the subject (Dalí’s sister was his first muse), and the fact that the world knew it existed only from a black and white image from the 1920s. Dalí is also one of the great cultural figures of the 20th century, so one cannot underestimate his appeal.” – India Phillips, head of Modern and Impressionist art at Bonhams

UPCOMING

Cité armchair from Jean Prouvé’s private collection, Jean Prouvé The Modern Masters sale returns to Phillips in April, offering feats of design by names such as Armand-Albert Rateau and Alberto Giacometti, whose work will be the subject of an exhibition at the Tate Modern in May. Also represented is Jean Prouvé: the French designer invented the Cité armchair towards the beginning of his career, in 1930. It was initially designed for a competition to furnish the halls of residence at the university in the French city of Nancy, but its fluid ergonomic shape proved so popular that it is still manufactured today. Prouvé also used the armchair in his own home, and this particular piece is from his private collection. Estimate £180,000-£280,000, Modern Masters, 26 April, phillips.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

sold, from left: Salvador Dalí, Figura de perfil (La Hermana Ana María), 1925, oil on board, 74.2 x 50cm. Impressionist and Modern Art at Bonhams New Bond Street, 2 March, bonhams.com, image courtesy of Bonhams Chinese porcelain wucai fish vase, 39cm diameter x 36cm high. Antiques, Silver and Collectables at Fellows, Augusta House, 27 February, fellows.co.uk, image courtesy of Fellows upcoming, from left: Jean Prouvé, ‘Cité’ armchair from Jean Prouvé’s private collection, c.1940, image courtesy of Phillips Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes, La Tauromaquia, 1816, the complete set of 33 etchings, sheets: approx. 31.4 x 44.5cm, album overall: 53.5 x 35.5 x 5cm, images courtesy of Sotheby’s

SOLD: £810,000 e s t im a t e : £ 1 , 2 0 0 - £ 1 , 8 0 0

Chinese porcelain wucai fish vase “We are delighted with the house record sale of this Chinese wucai vase. It was consigned via a Chinese client. Initial research when cataloguing had pointed to a number of historic precedents sold in the tens and hundreds of thousands. We examined the decoration to the collar and felt that it lacked the sophistication of these early pieces. While we dealt with a number of condition enquiries before the sale, little could have prepared us for the result.” – Mark Huddleston, senior specialist at Fellows

UPCOMING

La Tauromaquia, Francisco de Goya Sotheby’s is set to stage one of the most exciting auctions of the year, following the discovery of a rare set of 33 Goya etchings at the château de Montigny in the north of Burgundy. The intricate monochrome prints, on textured handmade paper, depict bullfights using dark umber ink. The collection is exceptionally valuable as it is practically flawless – thought to have been undisturbed for around 150 years – and is the first and only contemporary edition printed for Goya. Estimate £300,000-£500,000, Prints and Multiples, 4 April, sothebys.com

exhibition focus

Silver screen Camilla Apcar discovers Giosetta Fioroni, the heroine of Italian Pop art at Partners & Mucciaccia on Dover Street

art

hile the names of Lucio Fontana, Alberto Burri, Alighiero Boetti and Michelangelo Pistoletto have shot into the spotlight over the past few years, Giosetta Fioroni is perhaps less familiar. Fioroni was the only female member of the Scuola di Piazza del Popolo, a group of artists that emerged during the 1960s, and developed Italian Pop art as we have come to know it. Her graphic work draws on mass media as much as her family background: she was born in in 1932, her father a sculptor and mother a painter and puppeteer. Post-war Italian art continues to pour into the market, largely due to the expiration of Italian legislation that requires an export licence for any work more than 50 years old. Indeed, at Sotheby’s Milan, Fioroni’s Bambino sold for €52,500, more than €30,000 over its high estimate in 2015; La modella inglese sold for £56,250 in last year’s Italian sale at Christie’s; and in October Gli Occhiali (The Glasses) reached £62,500 at Phillips. An exhibition at Partners & Mucciaccia this month hones in on Fioroni’s earlier work. “Although they were created in the 1960s, her pictures are still very contemporary and translate very well, 60 years later,” says the gallery’s founder and director Massimiliano Mucciaccia. The works on display are typical of those from the artist’s time living between Rome and Paris from 1959 to 1963, when la dolce vita crossed paths with post-war Neorealism. Fioroni introduced rounded edges to her paintings (like a television or film screen), which were often of female faces that she referred to as ‘ideograms’ – images taken from press cuttings, projected onto the canvas and often painted in a ghostly silver (another reference both to the silver screen and the first photographs taken by William Henry Fox Talbot, who used paper coated in silver iodide). Although comparisons can be drawn, European Pop artists rejected the mechanical screenprinting techniques used by their American counterparts like Andy Warhol. Fioroni’s compositions tap into the same use of cultural icons, but by reinterpreting the faces by hand in enamel, aluminium and oil paint, they are far less emotionally detached. For the Italian Pop artists, the emphasis remained on the act of creating. Partners & Mucciaccia launched in 2006 in Rome, followed by spaces in the Dolomites and

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Clockwise from top left: Faccia Pubblicità (Advertising Face), 1968, enamel on canvas, 118 x 81cm, photograph by Giuseppe Schiavinotto, courtesy of Partners & Mucciaccia; Notturno con fanciulla (Night with Girl), 1967, enamel on canvas, 100 x 85cm, photograph by Giuseppe Schiavinotto, courtesy of Goffredo Parise, Giosetta Fioroni Archive; Liberty con paesaggio (Liberty with Landscape),1969, pencil and enamel aluminum on canvas, 100 x 100cm, photograph by Giuseppe Schiavinotto, courtesy of Goffredo Parise, Giosetta Fioroni Archive; installation view of Giosetta Fioroni|Silver Years; giosetta fioroni, courtesy of Goffredo Parise and Giosetta Fioroni Archive; La Modella Inglese (The English Model), 1969, enamel on canvas, 180.5 x 140.7cm, photograph by Giuseppe Schiavinotto, courtesy of Partners & Mucciaccia

Singapore. “After a few years operating on an international level, the next step of course was London, as it’s one of the most important platforms for both the contemporary and modern art market – and Mayfair is the centre of all that,” says Mucciaccia, who now lives in the area and flies back to Rome for weekends. The gallery opened on Dover Street last June, focusing on paintings through artists from Giorgio de Chirico to Enrico Castellani. Its roster “is a question of taste and sensitivity towards the artists”, Mucciaccia describes. “The gallery does follow the market, but only up until a certain point.” Fioroni’s recent work is completely different – dresses sculpted in ceramic, linear ink sketches – and she is still producing art in Rome. Yet nothing says bravissimo quite like the gallery’s tribute to one of the last living Italian Pop artists. Giosetta Fioroni|Silver Years, until 20 April, 45 Dover Street, W1S, partnersandmucciaccia.net

he cape was a popular style of overcoat in Britain towards the end of the 19th century. It was also around this time, in 1891, that Burberry – initially a manufacturer of just outerwear – moved into its first London store at 20 Haymarket. Fast forward to London Fashion Week in 2017 and Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey has referenced this original symbol of protection by draping 78 couture capes onto the models’ shoulders for the finale. Constructed from materials including shells, velvet and a reworked chandelier, the made-to-order pieces (as well as the entire campaign) are inspired by the work of sculptor Henry Moore. POA, atelier@burberry.com burberry.com

The caped

crusade

fashion

Future talent Up-and-coming designer Sadie Clayton’s iridescent embroidered jackets and sculpted headpieces wouldn’t look out of place in a museum or art gallery. Aptly, her S/S17 collection was presented with the help of holograms at the Royal Academy of Arts’ Keeper’s House. We love her twist on the classic white shirt, which features a tie at the waist, as well as the embroidered bomber that has been updated for summer in shades of white, blue and her signature molten copper. From £115, sadieclayton.co.uk

Style

update WORDS: Marianne Dick

Out of this world Since NASA’s discovery of seven new planets where life could exist, even the catwalks have been preoccupied with all things intergalactic. In his A/W17 show at London Fashion Week, Christopher Kane launched his first ever ready-to-wear collection. The range, Space, stars the Devine bag and some minimal high-tops that fasten using a safety buckle. To celebrate the futuristic new designs, the brand sent a bag and a trainer into space – 38km above the earth’s atmosphere. Devine bag, £795, and safety buckle trainers, £345, 6 Mount Street, W1K, christopherkane.com

Cocobots Karl Lagerfeld’s S/S17 ready-to-wear campaign, starring model Arizona Muse, marks the return of the ‘CocoBots’ who opened the data centre-themed show in October. The collection is a story of contrasts: classic tweed jackets that resemble electronic circuit boards and ’80s and ’90s styles with futuristic twists. This season we also meet the new Gabrielle bag, which Lagerfeld conceived after studying the shape of virtual reality goggles – the first major model since Boy in 2011. Gabrielle bag, from £2,440, 159 New Bond Street, W1S, chanel.com

Getting it right Our go-to brand for exceptional staples, Jaeger has just introduced a range of sunglasses in four different designs to suit your every mood. There’s a pair of enduringly cool light gold aviators with smoky brown lenses and some androgynous tortoiseshells (pictured left). We’ll take one of each please. £65, 12 Marylebone High Street, W1U, jaeger.co.uk s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Milano: Galleria V. Emanuele

ITALIAN TRAVEL BAGS SINCE 1952

Available at Harrods, Selfridges, John Lewis and caseluggage.com

FASHION

Getting the

hang of it

clockwise from top left: Salvatore Ferragamo, POA; Alaïa laser cut bag, £1,790; Chaîne by Lanvin, £1,260; Issey Miyake Nougat block black bag, £360; Narciso Rodriguez runway look; Chloé Nile bag, £1,195

Designers are enjoying a spring fling with wristlet and single strap handbags in every size, shape and colour imaginable. Camilla Apcar reports on where to find the prime movers

hen it comes to handbags, each season the conversation returns to size, structure and shape. This spring is no exception: there are miniscule box bags and minaudières galore, sack bags that practically dwarf the torso and all manner of far from utilitarian shapes. But straps are also sharing the limelight. Wristlets or designs with a single strap attached at one central point were shown on the catwalks by many fashion houses for the first time. “Wrist and strap bags are emerging as serious contenders for the number one evening bag spot,” says Ida Petersson, Browns’ accessories buying manager for womenswear. “I always favour a wrist bag as it allows me to have both my hands free, and I am less likely to accidentally leave my clutch behind. Our customers are going crazy

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over Alaïa’s version, in particular the perforated leather in white.” Wristlets have become a staple of Alaïa’s accessories collections. Its three Palmelato calfskin designs this season are especially striking, and ideal for daytime, too: in black, studded with the grommet eyelets that Azzedine Alaïa used in his first collections from the 1980s (£1,530); the white laser-cut style so popular at Browns (pictured previous page, top centre, £1,790); and a new nude appliqué silhouette that has around 80 floral studs mounted by hand like a neat miniature flowerbed (£1,400).

“Wrist and strap bags are emerging as serious contenders for the number one evening bag spot” At 82 years old, Giorgio Armani still has plenty of invention to offer – including a new wristlet in the metallic and soft Impressionist prints that ran throughout his latest collection, nicknamed Charmani. In calfskin or snakeskin with twist turn closures, it is a classic take on the wristlet, compact and boxy (opposite page, bottom, from £990). Lanvin’s new creative director Bouchra Jarrar – who stopped designing under her own name to take up the post last year – delivered her first show in September. It was full of the sharp tailoring for which she is known, and the draping that Alber Elbaz developed before her accession. Among this spring’s accessories is the fringed

FASHION

Chaîne by Lanvin mini drawstring bag, created by hand in an atelier near Florence. “It has been designed to be worn like a jewellery piece on the wrist while remaining functional and powerful,” says Lanvin’s studio. “From casual handbag to evening, this shape is very feminine and delicate. It will bring the final touch to a modern and edgy silhouette.” The Chaîne channels 1970s style with ivory snakeskin and black velvet calfskin (first page, top right, £1,260), in shades of black with a giant gemstone-encrusted flower (£925) or elongated to a rectangle in black with electric blue side panels (£885). Some interpretations on the wristlet are much bolder: Salvatore Ferragamo’s crocodile creation comes in a brave canary shade (top right, POA), while Japanese designer Issey Miyake has taken his Pleats Please line in a kaleidoscopic direction with geometric and block colour pieces, sparingly punctuated by black and white. Many of his bags are attached onto unusual shapes by long wristlet cords: crinkled PVC buckets (first page, centre, £360), an oddly twisted and pleated number that resembles bright white coral (£275) and sporty, androgynous structural pouches (opposite, top right, £315). Mulberry’s creative director Johnny Coca lays often contrasting ideas of Britishness onto his designs this season, including sacks and satchels that juxtapose punk and countrified glamour in navy, oxblood and racing green. “It’s about how we can use tradition, to make it feel modern,” he says.

opposite page, clockwise from top left: both Chloé Nile bag, £1,195; Issey Miyake Carapace black bag, £315; Mulberry white Tyndale small classic grain bag, £995 this page, from top: Salvatore Ferragamo, POA; Giorgio Armani wristlet bag in calfskin, £990; Giorgio Armani wristlet bag in laminate snakeskin, £1,350

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His new Tyndale, while sporting a longer strap, was styled as an oversize wristlet-cum-bucket bag on the runway – folded in on itself at the sides, and scrunched at the top (opposite page, bottom, £995). Elsewhere, Diane von Furstenberg’s geometric wristlet uses soft nappa leather in an origami-inspired style (£308). Narciso Rodriguez – the New York designer that Michelle Obama wore at the former President’s first and last State of the Union addresses – brought an open-top bucket wristlet to the catwalk back in September (first page, bottom right). Although not destined to be produced, like the Tyndale, it showed the versatility of large wristlets. Gone are the days of the ‘It bag’, but an unusual strap by Chloé – a large hoop bolted atop a small calf leather horseshoe – is turning heads (opposite page, top left and centre, £1,195). “The most wanted bag of the season is the Chloé Nile bag,” says Selfridges’ accessories buying manager, Josie Gardner. “The brass gold handle encapsulates the label’s sophistication and easy-going attitude.” Its saddle shape and suede marquetry are ready to lend an equestrian edge to a chic city look. “What I love about the Nile is that it has a dual purpose,” says Clare Waight Keller, Chloé’s creative director, who will step down at the end of March. “You can wear it cross-body, it’s got a bracelet, you can hold it in your hand.” Although the cross-body strap can be attached at whim, Chloé recognises all too well that there is a more interesting way to hang a handbag this season – dangerously dangling.

Shades of

CHANGE Stay smart this spring and prepare for the unpredictable weather with nifty layering. Match sharp shirts, soft jerseys and sleeveless vests, and roll up your socks under fancy footwear P h o t o g r a p h y: A l e x a n d e r B e e r Styling: Graham Cruz

Split sleeve top, £435, Osman, matchesfashion.com; blouse, £300, Vince, matchesfashion.com; skirt, £495, Alexandra Long, alexandralong.com; shoes, £450, Giuseppe Zanotti Design, giuseppezanottidesign.com

fashion

ABOVE Necklace, £287.50, Miansai, miansai.com; top, £235, Theory, theory.com; shirt, £975, Bally, bally.co.uk

RIGHT Jumper, £625, Theory, as before; shirt, £165, Nanushka, nanushka.hu; skirt, £1,010, Paule Ka, pauleka.com; shoes, £450, Merah Vodianova, merahvodianova.com; socks, £10, Falke, falke.com

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fashion

ABOVE Top, £800, Andrew GN, matchesfashion.com; shirt, £190, By Malene Birger, bymalenebirger.com; skirt, £1,250, Neil Barrett, neilbarrett.com; shoes, £645, Christian Louboutin, christianlouboutin.com

left Dress, £418, Diane von Furstenberg, matchesfashion.com; top, £35, COS, cosstores.com; trousers, £1,295, Bally, as before; shoes, £475, Sergio Rossi, sergiorossi.com

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Shirt, £350, Osman, as before; skirt, £275, Red Valentino, redvalentino.com; shoes, £420, JF London, jflondon.net

fashion

ABOVE Top, £205, Tara Jarmon, tarajarmon.com; shirt, £495, Monographie, available at Harrods, harrods.com; trousers, £285, Daks, daks.com; shoes, £595, Christian Louboutin, as before; socks, £9, Falke, as before

RIGHT Shirt, £105, Filippa K, filippa-k.com; trousers, £265, Karl Lagerfeld, karl.com; shoes, £640, Marni, marni.com

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CREDITS Model: Clarice Vitkauskas at Next Models Hair and make-up: Jonas Oliver using MAC Pro Set designer: Dom Chinea

Charlotte’s

web

She’s the accessories designer with a penchant for nostalgia, but that doesn’t mean Charlotte Olympia Dellal has her head stuck in the past. Katy Parker speaks to the woman making fashion fun

fashion

hoemaker. Mother of three. Film noir devotee. Charlotte Olympia Dellal is a wearer of many hats – a description that seems fitting for a woman who has made her name as one of the fashion world’s most creative and exciting accessories designers. The daughter of Brazilian model Andréa de Magalhães Vieira, Dellal was exposed to fashion from an early age, frequently accompanying her mother to shows in the ’70s and ’80s. Being backstage on those occasions, she recalls how she was enraptured by “the buzz, the energy, the idea of creating something and then it unfolding in front of you – it really resonated with me.” Dellal studied at London College of Fashion and afterwards applied for a course at Cordwainers when a tutor pointed out that she was focusing an undue amount of attention on the creation of hats, shoes and bags to match her designs – “I guess she thought my focus was on accessories, to me I was just designing a complete look.” But a seed was clearly planted; at Cordwainers Dellal made her

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first shoe “and fell in love with it”, sparking a passion and the beginning of a global brand. “It was an enthralment with glamour that got me into fashion,” the designer tells me. “I love old Hollywood movies – I used to watch them with my mum growing up. I was captivated by these beautiful women on screen, and how they accessorised from head to toe. That’s what initially got me hooked: it was the art of dressing up.” Charlotte Olympia the brand launched in 2008, and quickly established a playful, quirky aesthetic that tapped into the 21st-century woman’s increasing desire to have fun with their clothes – and in particular, their accessories. “You can afford to be that bit more playful with them,” Dellal says of the style that pervades her collections. “I’m always looking to emulate that old Hollywood look – from the ’40s and ’50s – when people had a different attitude to dressing. They would never shy away from a flamboyant hat or bold footwear. Accessories say a lot about a person: give ten different women the same accessory and they’ll all wear it in a different way.” This mix of nostalgia and whimsy has won Dellal legions of fans across the globe, with everyone from Alexa Chung to Beyoncé coveting her designs. She also has ten standalone stores, including outposts in Beverly Hills, Bangkok, Dubai and Moscow. The brand owes much of its success to Dellal’s Kitty slippers, which were created as part of her 2010 To Die For collection and were, she tells me, inspired by an Agatha Christie novel – “I’m a huge Agatha Christie fan.” The cat motif soon became Dellal’s signature, appearing on a range of products from hats and tote bags to phone cases. “It was never intended to be what it became, it was popular and so I kept bringing it back,” she affirms. The designer is one of fashion’s boundarypushing figures, as displayed through a series of collaborations and headline-generating Fashion Week presentations. Her list of past collaborators

“Accessories say a lot about a person: give ten different women

is a mixed bag, ranging from lingerie label Agent Provocateur to toymaker Mattel’s Barbie – a project Dellal describes as “a childhood dream come true”. Now, she is on the cusp of unveiling a range of luggage in collaboration with Globe-Trotter, the Mayfair-based experts in luxury travel and leather goods. “I’m a big fan of the brand,” Dellal says of Globe-Trotter. “It taps into my love of a bygone era and the beautiful luggage people used when they travelled, back in a time when travel was an adventure and there was an art form to it.” Dellal took three existing models – including the brand’s trademark suitcase in two sizes, and a vanity case – and put the Charlotte Olympia stamp on them, adorning the pieces with a soft cream leopard print and adding a silk spiderwebpatterned lining to the inside. In addition to this, and perhaps not surprisingly, the designer has added a shoe case, which again builds on an

original Globe-Trotter aesthetic. “I went through their archives and found a piece I could base my design on, and adapted it for a modern customer. Heels are higher now and flatforms are bigger; also, I wanted to accommodate more shoes,” she admits. To coincide with the launch, Dellal has designed a capsule collection of embroidered slippers, inspired by travel. Designed to fit into her Globe-Trotter shoe case, each one bears a motif corresponding to a different destination, ranging from the uniquely distinctive Statue of Liberty for New York to Copacabana prints for Brazil and the more general oceanic shell pattern reflecting Dellal’s love of the seaside. Dellal’s passion for travel – the possible outcome of a peripatetic upbringing spent between Rio de Janeiro, Paris and London – is evident. She describes Rio as her “home away from home, I always celebrate it in my

fashion

the same accessory and they’ll all wear it in a different way”

collections – and I love Japan.” She always travels with a hat – “whatever the season” – and won’t leave home without her sketch book, and a red lipstick (“it makes me feel like myself”). At February’s London Fashion Week, Dellal chose to present her A/W17 collection in cinematic style, inviting fashion’s finest to a screening of An Accessory to Murder at Curzon Mayfair Cinema. This thrilling film noir, directed by Dellal herself, was shot in black and white, using ’40s lights and a ’40s lens. For Dellal, authenticity was key: “these movies are my constant underlying inspiration, and if we were going to do this, I was sure we were going to do it properly.” For her S/S17 collection, inspired by Miss Chiquita Banana, Dellal presented a runway spectacular featuring technicolour chorus girls and models dressed as fruit. With this in mind, I wonder if she feels an increasing pressure to constantly come up with groundbreaking concepts

in order to remain current. She believes there is an element of this but views it as a positive. “I enjoy the challenge every collection brings. With accessories, you can be more creative as we’re not expected to do a runway show; although, increasingly I’m seeing designers breaking the mould with their ready-to-wear collections. It’s great; creativity drives creativity.” Within the industry, she is inspired by Miuccia Prada – “she’s built a fantastic brand” – and Giambattista Valli, the only person she worked for before venturing out on her own. “He taught me to never let your standards down.” When I ask Dellal ‘what’s next?’, she is suddenly coy. If one thing’s for sure, when it comes to Charlotte Olympia, we should expect the unexpected. Charlotte Olympia x Globe-Trotter, from £984, exclusively at Harrods, harrods.com

all catwalk imagery charlotte olympia s/s17

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fashion

Modern dandy Jermyn Street outfitters since 1922, New & Lingwood boasts distinguished fans including Hugh Laurie and Sir Ian McKellen, who have donned their sumptuous, brightly patterned dressing gowns on the small screen. Its new collection shows no signs of dulling down either; the statement citrus and turquoise shades have us dreaming of sunnier climes and the smart trainer that made a successful debut last season (now a staple for the modern gent’s wardrobe) is reimagined in crisp white, tan and cherry red. From £95, 53 Jermyn Street, SW1Y, newandlingwood.com

Style spy W O R D S : m arianne di c k

April showers

Beyond measure

When purchasing a suit, a man needs all the trimmings; and in this tumultuous British climate, an overcoat is essential for spring. Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson has introduced its first ready-to-wear raincoat, which has been expertly designed with high armholes and a slim waist to fit sleekly over a suit. The 1930s fly front style comes in navy and antique bronze and is crafted using Ventile fabric, renowned for making RAF and Nato flight suits. £975, Sherborne House, 13 Savile Row, W1S, richardandersonltd.com

In addition to the revamped men’s collections and the S.U.N (socks, underwear, nightwear) departments that opened earlier this year, Harrods has introduced a made-to-measure space that offers bespoke shirt fitting from the likes of Eton and Turnbull & Asser. Head to the lower ground floor to find everything you need to look polished and put together. Eton made-to-measure shirting, £199, Turnbull & Asser made-tomeasure shirting, from £325, harrods.com

Close shave Thomas Clipper is taking the ritual of shaving back to its red-blooded roots with its new Neolithic collection. Made from 5000-year-old semi-fossilised British oak, the set includes a lathering bowl filled with all-natural juniperinfused soap and a silky soft brush with a dark wood handle. Who says you need a beard to feel as rugged as a caveman? £199, available at Fortnum & Mason, fortnumandmason.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Elliott Erwitt, 2015

Michele De Lucchi - Giancarlo Fassina: Tolomeo

INTERIORS

ou may not recognise Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance’s name, but you will know his work. He was the artistic director of Sketch on Conduit Street in 2002 and the man behind Montblanc’s immersive retail concept last year. Now he has turned his hand to the difficult medium of crystal with a collection for Saint-Louis. The brand, which has been under the Hermès umbrella since 1995, received the royal seal of approval in 1767 by Louis XV. To this day the crystal is still mouth-blown and handmade using 24-carat gold or platinum. Duchaufour-Lawrance has taken inspiration from the dense forest around France’s regional park Northern Vosges for the Folia collection, which features crystal lights engraved with a leaf-shaped silhouette pattern and arranged on ash wood furniture. Lamps, from £1,490, saint-louis.com

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Crystal clear

Playing solitaire Bulthaup kitchens are not only aesthetically stunning – the bright white b1 units are a minimalist’s dream – but they allow you to completely customise your arrangement, which makes sense considering the time we spend in our living spaces. The German brand has introduced a new design to its portfolio, Solitaire (pictured left), which is completely adjustable according to your desired function. Its base is a delicate frame with a black aluminium platform, and from there it can be made into a glass display cabinet, a butcher’s block or a cooking island. POA, 37 Wigmore Street, W1U, bulthaup.com

Interiors news WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

Check it out

Colour me beautiful

It’s no secret that interiors brands look to the catwalks for inspiration, and for his second Habitat collection, Henry Holland has recreated his Eastern Bloc-inspired S/S17 collection, Free to Roam. Highlights include the vivid lime hand-knitted net throw, the flower embroidered cushions and the hand-carved folklore rug in clashing gingham and florals. Cushions, £45, House of Holland at Habitat, 196-199 Tottenham Court Road, W1T, habitat.co.uk

A change of season often means we want a change of surroundings, even if just a lick of paint. Little Greene in Marylebone has launched a colour consultancy service that helps customers choose a new colour scheme for their home. Simply bring photographs, swatches and measurements into the store, or even better, arrange an expert to visit your home for a more detailed evaluation. 3 New Cavendish Street, W1G, littlegreene.com

Egg and spoon Since many of us will be entertaining this Easter weekend, we are bound to come across a number of egg-themed centrepieces. The prize has to go to French silver specialist Christofle for its imaginative use of this festive shape to house a set of cutlery. Place the silver-plated, stainless steel objet d’art (lined in a rich walnut wood), in the centre of your dining table and see how long it takes your guests to work out what treasures are hidden inside. £850, Christofle, available at luxdeco.com

promotion

Cadogan Tate outside the white house

Making the move

Whether upsizing or downsizing, or indeed moving a departing President out of the White House, Cadogan Tate is the mover of choice

ransferring your life from one home to another is an incredibly stressful ordeal, not least for all the wrapping and unwrapping, the endless cardboard boxes and the heavy lifting. This is why the large majority of us call in a professional moving company. The relatively low cost of a good quality mover is a sensible and worthwhile investment. When it comes to your valued possessions, whether sentimental or delicate collectibles, who can you trust to pack them up and transfer them to a new home, whether from Clapham to Chelsea or halfway across the world? Cadogan Tate is no stranger to the world of high-value, complex and time-sensitive moves. The company was founded in 1977 with a Luton van, an office in Covent Garden and storage facilities in Southwark. A year later, it was selected by Christie’s to transfer auction lots from its warehouse to its South Kensington sale rooms – now Cadogan Tate works with all the major global auction houses. Through its relentless focus on quality and customer service, Cadogan Tate has built up an incredibly loyal customer base by offering a flexible range of services and geographical locations. The company is based in north and south London, Paris, the Côte d’Azur, New York, Miami and Los Angeles, and has more than half a

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One of the more high-profile moves was for President Barack Obama million square feet of high-security temperature-controlled warehousing. As such, Cadogan Tate provides specialised moving, storage, international shipping and insurance services to individuals, families, businesses and governments covering the entire UK, EU and USA, as well as all major worldwide destinations. Cadogan Tate has moved a 1,200-person marketing firm in central London overnight; flown replacement financial trading servers via private jet to New Jersey in the wake of Hurricane Sandy; transported a personal art collection worth more than $300 million from Geneva to Hampstead;

and relocated more than 20,000 items of smoking ephemera from London to a private museum in Turkey. Nevertheless, by far the largest number of assignments the company undertakes each year is the moving and storage of thousands of private homes. One of the more high-profile moves recently completed was for top interior designer Michael S. Smith, who called to book a move in Washington on Inauguration Day. Rescheduling to a quieter time was desirable, but clearly impossible as the client in question was President Barack Obama. The instructions were simple if daunting: the move was to be completed in no more than four hours under the direction of the secret service and White House staff, and the movers were to know nothing about the property until arrival. Cadogan Tate’s moving teams are used to providing immaculate service under complex conditions, so it was no surprise that Michael S. Smith’s beautiful room sets were safely installed in the departing President’s elegant new home. Cadogan House, 239 Acton Lane, NW10, cadogantate.com, +44 208 963 4000

Two years ago, Christian Liaigre embarked on an experimental venture and opened a second London showroom on Mayfairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Conduit Street. Marianne Dick talks to UK managing director Asli Bohane about how the store has shaped the future of the brand

INTERIORS

his month marks two years since the second London-based Christian Liaigre showroom opened on the majestic corner where Conduit Street and Savile Row meet. “The brand had grown a lot in the previous ten to 15 years, so the Mayfair store was a good addition to the first London shop in Fulham, which opened around 13 years ago,” says UK managing director Asli Bohane.

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The design house was originally focused on large, commissioned projects when its founder Christian Liaigre launched the studio in 1985, closely followed by the opening of the first showroom in Paris in 1987. From then it grew relatively organically, according to Bohane, and Liaigre opened showrooms “wherever he thought would be nice”. Controversially, the 2015 Mayfair opening trialled a new retail driven direction for the brand.

“Having two locations creates two different atmospheres: because of the shape of the Mayfair showroom and the big windows, we can display our furniture on a larger scale as well as artwork and big accessories,” explains Bohane. Indeed, the Conduit Street showroom is a glorious, sunny space, and it looks as immaculate now as when it first opened. Bohane describes the Fulham branch as “more like a little home”, yet the Mayfair store evokes a similar cosiness, just on a larger scale. This ambience can be attributed to Christian Liaigre’s unconventional creative approach. Rather than releasing collections according to the regimented fashion seasons, the brand tends to develop new pieces from private projects and commissions. Bohane leads me to the curved Safran sofa that was originally made for a yacht. The arc was included so that the chair would align neatly with the contours of the boat, however designers

INTERIORS

previous spread, from left: Images 1-2, Fulham Showroom, photographer Nicolas Heron; images 3-5, Paris showroom, Philippe Garcia this spread, from left: Athens property; St Moritz Property, both from Liaigre: Twelve Projects (Flammarion, 2015), photographer Mark Seelen; the Fulham showroom; room in François Nars’ Bora Bora property; as before, both by Jean Philippe Piter

introduce some curves to the scheme. One of the major considerations when creating pieces for boats is the weight, so to make it lighter the designer hollowed out the base, resulting in a simple yet striking shape. “It works beautifully,” says Bohane. “The amazing thing about our products is that they seem so simple, even if you don’t necessarily know the details and the reason why a certain shape is there.” In addition to functionality, sustainability is a significant characteristic of the Christian Liaigre house. The founder grew up in the countryside, which inspired him to work with earthy materials such as wood and bronze: “It is, in a way, sustainable by nature – we design pieces to last forever,” says Bohane. The brand’s quality craftsmanship and careful design process mean that very little is removed from the collection: it keeps growing and expanding, much like a home. While the larger Mayfair space can show off big pieces and arrangements, smaller objects are now filling the shelves too, in order to cater for the new breed of customer that this location attracts. These are clients that, according to Bohane, “often want to take something with them”. In fact, the Conduit Street showroom has prompted the development

The brand’s quality craftsmanship and careful design process mean that very little is removed from the collection: it keeps growing and expanding, much like a home realised afterwards that this feature actually allows people to talk and engage more comfortably than the typical straight shape. “I’d say the brand aesthetic is refined, simple, contemporary and classic. We always try to keep the lines very pure, it’s not about adding details just for the sake of adding them; functionality is very important,” says Bohane. “Every bit of furniture is designed for a particular project so it’s very important for us to think about the way of life of our clients. The location is very much a part of the aesthetic.” Bohane points out the Citron table lamp, another mainline piece that was initially designed for a yacht. Everything on the yacht was very square and boxy so the designer decided to

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of a new accessories line that will be revealed sporadically throughout the year, launching with the Hugo lacquer trays which have been designed to fit snugly on the arm of a sofa. “London is the international place, so it appeals to all of our international clients. They might also go to Paris and New York, but if they come to London they will come to Mayfair, not Fulham,” says Bohane. “London was the first city where we tried the second showroom as a real strategy to see how it would work, and it’s been a great idea,” says Bohane. The Mayfair experiment has certainly paid off. Now all eyes are on Paris and New York. 52 Conduit Street, W1S, christian-liaigre.fr/en

First place As leading interior architect Tara Bernerd launches Place, a new book with Rizzoli, the designer tells Ellen Millard about her inspirations, the secret to a good hotel and celebrating 15 years in business

gatha Christie famously required a bathtub and a bag of apples to pen her whodunits; Mark Twain favoured a remote cabin in California; and Jack Kerouac, Thomas Wolfe and Dylan Thomas would hole up in New York’s now closed Hotel Chelsea. The writing caverns of the world’s best wordsmiths are particular at best, but none hold a candle to the 15,000 sq ft island retreat that interior architect Tara Bernerd fashioned for one of her author clients recently.

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Located in Mallorca, the sandstone build boasts unrivalled views over the bay of Palma, best seen through a floor-to-ceiling window that stretches the length of the client’s study, in front of which the author has studiously placed his writing desk. The villa is one of many featured in the designer’s new book, Tara Bernerd: Place, a retrospective and nostalgic look at some of her and her team’s best work over the past 15 years, ranging from a penthouse in Westminster and a yacht in Istanbul, to a collection of lodges and tree houses for Center Parcs. For Bernerd and

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from top: Thompson Chicago, photography: Philip Vile; Tara Bernerd, photography: Jason Alden; both ©Tara Bernerd, from Place by Tara Bernerd, Rizzoli New York, 2017

her team, it was a chance to pause and reflect on what they have achieved. “It was so interesting to look back at the past 15 years; it was a great reminder of the body of work that we have done,” she tells me. “Through imagery and personal instinct we took a selection from each part of our journey, and had to be a bit ruthless about some of the others.” A protégé of Philippe Starck – with whom she worked at the YOO Studio during the ’90s – the designer established her own company, Tara Bernerd & Partners, in 2002, and quickly gained a

reputation for her sleek eye for interior architecture, which has transformed lofty towers and cavernous penthouses into slick spaces for private clients, hoteliers and developers. Her USP is ‘a home from home’, crafting hotels and yachts into comfortable spaces to retire to. “Hotels are very much our main focus, but we feel very attuned to that marriage of the residential feel within a building that so many people enjoy,” Bernerd explains. “In a sense, hotels are the lifestyle homes of today. We understand the philosophy of what might be a beautiful bedroom in someone’s house, but instead there are 200 of them – and what might be a marvellous study may become a lounge or bar in a hotel.” The name of her new book, Place, stems from her desire to produce contemporary projects without infringing on the local area. For instance, the Mallorca-based villa comprises materials used on the island, while a chalet in Gstaad features grey quartzite extracted from a nearby quarry. “When we’re in a place, our aim is to be very indigenous and to bring out what the area demands, what the local neighbourhood might want from it and what the client is looking for,” Bernerd says. “Each project has its own life and its own DNA.”

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Travel and hospitality design has been an interest of Bernerd’s ever since she was a child. As the daughter of property developer Elliott Bernerd, a passion for high-quality service was instilled in her from a young age and she recognised early on in her career that the design of a building is just the beginning of a hotel’s road to success. “I was very fortunate to be able to travel a lot as a girl. I was always so interested in the hotels and these different worlds that we went into,” she tells me. “When we are designing, I think what inspires me is that you’re creating an atmosphere. It’s not just about wall finishes and different trends, it’s about layer upon layer of decisions and how, after each one is applied, you are creating an atmosphere that will make people want to return. That’s something that still intrigues me today.”

“What inspires me is that you are making an atmosphere – it’s not just about wall finishes” Although she admits that she’s “not great with favourites”, she praises the Belmond group for having “some of the most beautiful hotels” and staff members who “are such characters”. Her stand-out hotspots include the Belmond Hotel Caruso in Italy’s Ravello (“it’s so beautiful and so tasteful”), and The Mercer in New York (“I can still walk in and think ‘wow’. When André Balazs first did that hotel with Christian Liaigre it was so cool... and it still is”). She also has a soft spot for Claridge’s, where she likes to meet her mother for lunch. Of her own projects, the ones that she recalls most fondly are Sixty Soho in New York and Thompson Chicago, although she struggles when it comes to her out and out favourites. “Each project has evoked so much and there have been so many incredible people involved that every one is a family member in itself,” she explains. “There are projects that I’m very close to just because of the people involved. Each one is an experience.” As the company celebrates its 15th anniversary this year – which Bernerd hopes to mark with a party at The Hari hotel in Belgravia – the team is working hard on projects in the USA (a New York office is opening imminently), and looking forward to the future, in which the designer plans

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from top left: Westminster Terrace Penthouse with artwork by Jim Lee and Guido Mocafico, photography: Philip Vile; Tara Bernerd’s home in Battersea, PhotographY: Philip Vile; all ©Tara Bernerd, from Place by Tara Bernerd, Rizzoli New York, 2017

to expand the brand and continue to work on projects around the world. Reflecting on the past 15 years, Bernerd comments on how much the industry has evolved since she started. “It has changed in two ways: one is how we constantly try to understand people’s preferences, whether it be a living space and how people might want to use that,” she explains. “What might have once been a traditional layout for a living room may not suit how people live today. “The second fold is how we work in our studios,” she continues. “It’s very hard to go to a presentation without computer-generated images, so our design process is far more technical.” When it comes to her own home, Bernerd favours mid-century furniture, but cites The Conran Shop as her go-to for ceramics and glassware. Her own apartment in Battersea is the first featured in her new book. The space is the ultimate representation of Bernerd’s design style, but it was actually the location that drew her to the building in the first place. “I run every morning in Battersea Park and I love my view of the river. I think Albert Bridge is one of the most beautiful in the world,” she enthuses. “I like the energy that London has and I think that it’s one of the most creative hubs globally. The amount of talent that comes out of here, we’re just spoilt by restaurants and chefs, museums and art galleries.” But with projects based all over the world, it sounds as though Bernerd gets to spend less time in the capital than she would like, and when I ask her about her plans for the future, she laughs at the prospect of looking further than the next few weeks, which are set to be hectic to say the least. “Right now, I feel that if I can make it to the airport tomorrow and get to Hong Kong in one piece, then come back to London and go to Paris, Munich and then Mexico, we’ll be on the right track.” Passports at the ready... Tara Bernerd: Place, £42.50, rizzoliusa.com

Spritz of

spring From the blue skies and sparkling oceans at Hermès to Lalique’s rose and freesia bouquet, spring clean your scent collection with these refreshing new fragrances

Glow getter With new additions to Chanel’s Les Beiges collection, you need not wait for summer to achieve natural radiance. The aqua-gel format of the new Healthy Glow Gel Touch Foundation is 56 per cent water and contains a unique formula to help skin reflect light. Layer with new pink and coral shades of blush, or soften eyes with pearly beige and satin pink eyeshadows. From £34, chanel.com

Fleur Musc, from £40 for 30ml, Narciso Rodriguez, selfridges.com

Beauty news W O R D S : m e l i ss a e m e rso n

Eau des Merveilles Bleue, £72 for 50ml, Hermès, uk.hermes.com

All eyes on Louboutin Hot on the heels of its nail polishes, lip colours and fragrances, there’s no stopping Christian Louboutin as it launches its latest category this month: eyes. The Art-Decoinspired mascara has vertical and horizontal bristles to lend volume to lashes, while even Cleopatra couldn’t fail to be impressed by the plum, peacock and chartreuse velvet eye definer pencils. From £33, eu.christianlouboutin.com

Wildly Attractive, £135 for 50ml, Diana Vreeland, selfridges.com

Rêve d’Infini, from £72 for 50ml, Lalique, lalique.com

the shiseido filter The Smart Filtering Smoother is the latest addition to Shiseido’s Ibuki range – aimed at solving the skincare concerns of busy millennials – designed to give skin a smooth look in one quick fix. Marjoram extract hydrates to give a rosy glow, while the serum-powder combination covers uneven contours and limits shine. £20, houseoffraser.co.uk

Dandelion Fig, from £30 for 30ml, Shay & Blue, shayandblue.com

health & beauty

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Facing the elements The Fire & Ice facial from iS Clinical is the red carpet beauty secret that Hollywood stars swear by. Marianne Dick braves the elements at The Bulgari Hotel London

he prospect of a facial called Fire & Ice sounds rather dramatic and not altogether relaxing, however considering it is one of the most renowned beauty therapies among A-listers (Halle Berry and Gwyneth Paltrow are apparently both fans), I have to see what all the fuss is about. Developed by iS Clinical and pioneered in Beverly Hills (this might explain the Hollywood fanbase), the two-step mild peel treatment promises to resurface the epidermis, reduce the appearance of lines and blemishes and leave me looking radiant – all in 30 minutes. It sounds too good to be true, and as I make my way to the Bulgari Hotel spa – one of the few London-based wellness centres where it is available – I feel apprehensive that I’m going to be left red-faced. When I arrive, such feelings soon dissipate: the atmosphere is just as blissfully calm as it would be for a standard treatment.

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My therapist Nicole begins by cleansing my face to remove make-up and then swiftly applies the Intensive Resurfacing Masque – the ‘fire’. As the thick product is painted on, I am told that it might tingle and potentially sting in problematic areas. It makes my skin feel tight and smells sweetly of cinnamon; and the warm sensation is not at all uncomfortable but feels rather satisfying. The blend of sugar cane extract (a natural source of glycolic acid), retinol (vitamin A) and niacinamide (vitamin B3), encourages cellular renewal; to put it simply, it eats any bacteria and undesirables that may be hitching a ride on your skin. The product is removed after five minutes and the Rejuvenating Masque is applied (coined ‘ice’ because of its cooling, gel-like consistency). This hydrating formula contains hyaluronic acid, aloe vera and extracts of green tea, grape seed and rosemary. With the masque still on, Nicole massages my face with actual ice for a further five minutes, before cleansing the skin again. Half an hour later to the minute, the treatment is complete. I am handed a mirror to inspect the results and am pleasantly surprised to see my skin glowing and only a little flushed. The Fire & Ice facial is brisk and accessible, even for my sensitive skin, and while the actual process is nowhere near as dramatic as the name suggests, the results are undoubtedly more conspicuous than any other facial treatment I’ve experienced before. I’m ready for my close-up now. iS Clinical Fire & Ice facial, £250, The Bulgari Hotel London Spa, 171 Knightsbridge, SW7, bulgarihotels.com

Seoul-ful recipes At the end of last year, chef Judy Joo opened her second Korean restaurant in London, Jinjuu Mayfair, to critical acclaim. Expect more modern Asian flavours with its new set lunch menu. Our favourite has to be the bibimbap, a traditional stone bowl filled with rice, chicken, seasonal vegetables and topped with a fried egg. For a healthy kick, swill it down with a pink grapefruit and coconut pressed juice. From £17.50 for two courses, 39 Albemarle Street, W1S, jinjuu.com

Food & drink news WORDS: HANNAH LEMON

An egg-ceptional

EASTER Our selection of the most decadent chocolates

13kg egg with white chocolate butterflies, £1,000, godiva.com

Harrods x Camille Walala egg, £350, harrods.com

Testing the water There’s fresh water, and then there’s Svalbarði. Wall Street businessman Jamal Qureshi came up with the concept to collect 15 tonnes of the North Pole’s purest ice and melt and bottle it by hand without the use of chemical filters. Each biannual expedition by the carbon neutral-certified Svalbarði yields only 13,000 bottles (now available at Harrods), and aims to raise awareness of sustainability through its Arctic outpost in Longyearbyen, Norway – an important centre for global warming research. £80, available at Harrods and svalbardi.com

Lucio Fontana egg with bonbons, £136, pierreherme.com

Multi-flavoured Colossal egg, £90, fortnumandmason.com

Sharing is caring Berkeley Square is filled with the flavours of Northern India this month as the Michelin-starred Benares prepares an Easter feasting dish: a lamb raan with black lentil dal makhni and naan bread. The meal is designed to be shared between up to three people for half a leg of lamb (£60) or up to six for a whole leg (£120). For a festive touch, enjoy it with homemade chocolate syrup. 10-17 April, 12a Berkeley Square, W1J, benaresrestaurant.com

Chocolate egg with marzipan chick, £40, rococochocolates.com

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Naturally Nordic Drawing on the abundant nature of Sweden, Norway and Denmark, Aquavit serves up seafood, berries and wild game with fun flare, says Hannah Lemon

ack in December, we took a look at the new St James’s Market, a hub of retail and dining destinations. Now that the dust has settled on The Crown Estate’s development, I sweep in to experience Aquavit’s Nordic cuisine. Aquavit’s reputation – garnered from its outposts in New York and Japan – has already attracted the right crowd. Women in sleek backless dresses and suited men can be seen sipping cocktails from the central bar or sampling the smörgåsbord in the restaurant. Martin Brudnizki’s interior is all clean lines, polished wood and clever lighting. Splashes of bright blue come from the Swedish Svenskt Tenn’s upholstered chairs and wall-mounted rugs by Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson (one of which took 3,000 hours to craft). My dining companion and I join the crowd, welcomed by a bubbly Swedish waitress called Elin, who explains the menu. One option is to try the smörgåsbord, which can be shared like tapas between a table, washed down with selected aquavits (a spirit flavoured with herbs and spices). Alternatively – and this is the option we choose – you can sample a few dishes from the smörgåsbord, as well as a starter and a main. We start with herrings garnished in mustard, curry and pickles. The succulent meaty fish comes in three small jars and with a tiny pot of warm new potatoes. This is followed by the sweet flavour of the blood pudding, a dish I would normally avoid, but is enchantingly mellow. Starters arrive with a sommelier to match wines with our courses. She chooses Roberto Sarotto’s

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white Gavi di Gavi for the salty crab on brioche and a full-bodied white L’Oustalet for the soft venison tartare garnished with tart berries. The Swedish meatballs, with the world’s creamiest mashed potato, and best-selling duck are accompanied by French and Italian reds. With satisfied bellies we almost skip dessert, but thankfully Elin has the good sense to suggest we share Michelin-starred pastry chef Emma Bengtsson’s Arctic Bird’s Nest (pictured bottom right). A pile of twigs is formed from nutty tuille ribbons surrounded by edible leaves and flowers, with an ‘egg’ sat on top. Cracking the white chocolate shell open, we sample the surprisingly appetising goats cheese parfait ‘egg white’ and soft sea buckthorn ‘yolk’. A truly innovative interpretation of the delights of Nordic nature. St James’s Market, 1 Carlton Street, SW1Y, aquavitrestaurants.com

Discover a new favourite tipple with a twist or an utterly unusual libation, courtesy of eight local bartenders whose creations are taking cocktail hour to greater heights

Where: 45 Jermyn Street Cocktail: No.13 Float Ingredients: • • • • • •

Soda, 125ml Pineapple syrup/honey, 50ml Botanist gin, 35ml Maraschino, 5ml Strawberry ice cream, two scoops Black olive powder or black olive

Word from the wise: Patrick Coyle, head mixologist “Our ice cream floats are inspired by the ‘soda jerks’ of 1930s and 1940s America – the drugstore assistants who made the first ice cream floats. Our restaurant is the site of the UK’s first soda fountain (The Fountain restaurant that previously occupied the site). You cannot go wrong pairing ice cream and booze, it’s true decadence.” £12.50, 45 Jermyn Street, SW1Y, 45jermynst.com

Where: Mr Fogg’s Residence Cocktail: The Pronounced Vowel Ingredients: • • • • • • • •

Dictador 12-year old rum, 150ml Cointreau Noir, 50ml Fresh lime juice, 50ml Pineapple juice, 60ml Passion fruit juice, 90ml Orgeat syrup, 30ml Mint leaves, ten Caster sugar, three spoons

Word from the wise: Marco Ercolano, general manager “This sharing cocktail for four is inspired by Mr Fogg’s memorable train journey from Mongolia to Siberia in the film Around the World in Eighty Days. We imagined him at his favourite bar sharing his adventures.” £60, 15 Bruton Lane, W1J, mr-foggs.com

food & drink

Where: The Arts Club Cocktail: The Arthur Lewis Ingredients: • Rémy Martin cognac, 50ml • Pedro Ximénez sherry, 15ml • Black pepper bitters, 5ml

Word from the wise: Raffaele Marino, executive mixologist “Due to the simplicity of its structure and great long-lasting flavours, this is one of my favourite cocktails (although bartenders are like parents – they love all of their children). It is named after a founder of The Arts Club, as I came up with the recipe to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the club and its heritage, using ingredients that were popular back in those days. It has a peppery twist, and peppercorn studs on the orange peel.” £16, 40 Dover Street, W1S, theartsclub.co.uk

Where: Sexy Fish Cocktail: F’row Ingredients: • Grey Goose vodka or Star of Bombay gin, 40ml • Calvados, 20ml • Crème de pêche, 20ml • Lemon juice, 10ml • Peychauds bitters, two dashes • Rosemary bitters, two dashes • Sassy Rosé cider, to top • Apple blossom, to garnish

Word from the wise: Jérôme Allaguillemette, assistant bar manager “This drink is inspired by the glamour of a fashion show. It is sharp, elegant, and fragrant, plus served on its very own catwalk that has been designed so the lights turn on when the drink is placed on top, illuminating it from beneath. The dry apple notes of the calvados are balanced by the fruity and summery flavour of the peach, and enhanced by the rosemary bitters. The cider gives a lively fizz with more apple notes on the dry side.” £17, Berkeley Square, W1J, sexyfish.com

Where: Cartizze Bar Cocktail: Smoking Geisha Ingredients: • • • • • •

Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve, 40ml Cocchi Rosa, 20ml Kumquat, half Mint leaves, six Soda water, a splash Kumquat and apple blossom to garnish

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Word from the wise: Erik Giarratana, bar manager and Eddie Savrin, senior bartender “This cocktail was born from the idea of bringing a relatively classic concept to the modern age with an ‘east meets west’ twist: Italian and Japanese ingredients. It is balanced and served in a fine-cut rocks glass under a peat smoked cloche, so the senses are wholly stimulated.” £13, 4 Lancashire Court, W1S, cartizzebar.com

food & drink

Where: Sartoria Cocktail: Savile Row Martini Ingredients:

Word from the wise: Simone Caporale, resident mixologist “This intriguing and elegant

• • • • •

drink has been on the menu at our Libare Bar since last autumn. Inspired by the rich history of Savile Row and its strong tradition for the tailor-made experience, I wanted to reinvent the classic dry martini. It has botanical notes, designed to reflect the bespoke fabrics seen in Savile Row’s tailors, and a smooth texture to mirror the experience of a tailored suit on the body.” £11, 20 Savile Row, W1S, sartoria-restaurant.co.uk

Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, 50ml Tio Pepe sherry, 40ml Luxardo Bitter Bianco, 5ml Orange bitters, three dashes Pickled radish, one

Where: Ralph’s Bar Cocktail: Smoking Jacket Ingredients: • • • • • •

Fords gin, 40ml Cointreau, 20ml Pomegranate, 15ml Lemon, 25ml Egg white, 10ml Lemon zest to garnish

RALPH LAUREN’S cosy, intimate bar Where: Sketch Cocktail: Carried Away Ingredients: • • • •

Linie aquavit, 45ml Lime juice, 20ml Sugar syrup, 20ml Red pepper, four slices, and one whole to serve • Basil leaves, three, and to garnish

opened back in January. Its interior nods to the founder’s love for all things equestrian, as does the miniature wooden polo served with this cocktail, set alongside a lovely heavy glass. A particularly dapper classic. £14, 173 Regent Street, W1B, ralphlauren.co.uk

Word from the wise: Pepijn Vanden Abeele, bar manager “I saw a drink made by an old colleague that used red pepper, and was inspired to play on the idea. I went for Aquavit instead of gin, as caraway seed is an interesting and underappreciated flavour (the cocktail’s name itself is a play on words). I then chose to do something completely different and serve it in a red bell pepper. The presentation and the recipe’s simplicity and use of an everyday vegetable make this drink a timeless indulgence. Good flavour and great aesthetic will never go out of fashion.” £15.50, 9 Conduit Street, W1S, sketch.london

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Hüseyin Özer, PHOTOGRAPHY: Barıs Acarlı

Serving up

success From goat herder to restaurant mogul, Hüseyin Özer has people flocking to his fine Turkish establishment. Russell Higham reports

estaurateur Hüseyin Özer’s life in Mayfair couldn’t be more different from his humble beginnings. As founder of the Sofra chain of restaurants, with branches in Shepherd Market and Marylebone, he counts top politicians and celebrities among his regular customers. He has amassed a tidy fortune with a penthouse apartment in Curzon Street and a vintage Ferrari parked in the garage below. He started life, however, as an illiterate and penniless goat herder from a remote village deep in the Turkish countryside. This rags-toriches tale begins in 1949 when Özer was born to parents who abandoned him. Raised by a grandfather who could not afford to school him, the small boy taught himself to write by scribbling with pieces of charcoal from the caves he slept in while looking after the animals. Wanting to better himself, he ran away to the capital, Ankara, where, unable to afford proper lodging, he slept in coal bunkers and even a public toilet. In his 20s, he borrowed the fare to London and enrolled as a kitchen porter in a Mayfair restaurant. Toiling day and night, he worked his way up to head chef and eventually saved enough money to buy the place cheaply when recession forced his employer into bankruptcy. It turned into Sofra (meaning ‘dinner table’) and has, together with its sister restaurant near Oxford Street, been serving healthy, reasonably priced Turkish cuisine to a steady stream of appreciative Londoners for more than 30 years. Özer initially came to the UK purely because he felt it offered the best opportunities for him at the time. Now he’s a self-confessed Anglophile. “When I came to Mayfair, I immediately fell in love with it. It was the London I’d dreamed of. There’s

food & drink

even something about the pavements here – they seem regal!” The neighbourhood of Shepherd Market wasn’t always so salubrious. Özer takes credit for helping rid it of the prostitution that blighted the area and kept property prices depressed. “The girls used to stand outside my restaurant and wait for customers to stop in their cars on the street corner. I needed to find a way of moving them, so I came up with an idea: I hung lots of flower baskets outside and kept them constantly watered. The water drenched the pavements and gutters so the girls got splashed every time a car pulled up. They smashed up the baskets at first, but I persevered and won. At one point, though, I was spending nearly ten per cent of my turnover at the florist!” Özer was determined to attract the right kind of customer and had his eye on the patronage of the Turkish ambassador to Britain. “He needed somewhere he could regularly come to eat the kind of homemade food he loved, but he could only find Greek places and that was a problem, diplomatically. I wanted his business but security was an issue in those days, so I spoke with MI5 and the

“At Sofra, I want more people to discover just how healthy and delicious Turkish food can be”

Turkish embassy who told me to have bulletproof windows installed, which I did. He ate here for years. Thankfully, we never had an attempt on his life”. Özer can often be seen strolling around his adopted home. “It’s like a village – a very upmarket one! Places like The Pharmacy [an old fashioned apothecary] give it that feel. And I know many of my neighbours who live or run businesses around here, like Robin Birley [son of nightclub doyen Mark Birley and Lady Annabel Goldsmith] across the road.” He has himself become one of the district’s personalities, instantly recognisable with his trademark shock of wild hair, which he has cut at Geo. F. Trumper, handily located right next to his home. And is always clad head to toe in Issey Miyake. While Özer lists Scott’s, The Wolseley and Fortnum & Mason as local foodie favourites, he is on a mission to change the public’s opinion that Turkish food is all kebabs and fast food. The restaurant ran a campaign earlier this year offering a free three-course dinner to anybody who had booked a holiday to Turkey. “My country has suffered recently. Tourism is badly down, and I wanted to do something to help it. I want more people to discover just how healthy and delicious Turkish food can be. Hopefully it will encourage them to visit Turkey.” For now, he is actively seeking a location for his third restaurant. Eager estate agents take note, however, there is one proviso: “It must be within 20 minutes’ walk of my home. I go everywhere on foot as much as possible in Mayfair. I remember every day how I started off and I know I’m very lucky to live here. So I want to take my time and enjoy it all.” Sofra, 18 Shepherd Street, W1J and 1 St Christopher’s Place, W1U, sofra.co.uk

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In plain view

photography: Adrian Dirand

King Lewanika Lodge will open in western Zambia’s Liuwa Valley in April, to become the only permanent camp in more than 3,000 sq km surrounding it. The second largest wildebeest migration in Africa crosses these vast plains, which are flooded each season, bringing its wooded islands to life. The six tented villas will have sunken terraces and bedrooms that open onto the grasslands. A thriving lion population, cheetah, rare antelope and more than 300 bird species are just waiting to be spotted. From £850, timbuktutravel.com

coastal ties

Travel news W O R D S : C amilla A pcar

The best of the Amalfi Coast has been transported straight to Florida with the opening of the Le Sirenuse restaurant and champagne bar at The Surf Club on Miami Beach – the Italian hotel’s first international outpost. With handmade Venetian glasses, a Mediterranean menu and Positano pot plants, Four Seasons meets boutique hospitality. fourseasons.com

Zen en Provence Tailor-made travel specialist Red Savannah is launching a retreat set in 20 hectares of Luberon countryside. Guests staying at La Colline Fleurie’s farmhouses will meet a medical herbalist and an ethno-botanist for sessions on gut health and foraging, plus take pilates classes, learn a gazpacho recipe to “send a cold packing” and complete mindfulness practices using plants. 8-13 May and 16-22 September, £2,680 for a five-night retreat, redsavannah.com

Rest your head Even seasoned jetsetters are prone to stress the evening before flight – but The Connaught offers sweet relief. Travellers can be collected by a chauffeur armed with a checklist (passport, iron off), then taken to the hotel where clothes will be pressed and packed as they enjoy a massage at the Aman spa. Rise to a takeaway breakfast before the driver bids bon voyage, and breathe easy. The Night Before package, until May, from £1,060, must be booked two days in advance, reservations@the-connaught.co.uk

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Suite dreams bailiffscourt hotel & SPA, sussex Words: nikki mohan

t had been a wintry drive from London: brown fields, bare trees, high, muddy hedgerows. But when we turned into the drive of the hotel in West Sussex, our spirits rose. There were swathes of green grass on either side, a pond, masses of snowdrops and here and there daffodils were beginning to peep through. In front of us lay a complex of medieval buildings and cottages, some

Situated in a quiet part of Sussex and close to the beach for sailing, Bailiffscourt became the perfect country retreat for the Moyne family. The buildings are a glorious mixture of ancient brick and salvaged doors, and in the case of its lovely Gate House, the whole building was moved to its current site from the nearby village of Loxwood. The place was converted into a hotel after the war.

The hotel looks like a medieval manor house, with a glorious mixture in warm golden stone, others in mellow, beamed red brick. To the left a large, airy barn-like structure housed an ultra-modern spa and pool. Bailiffscourt Hotel, with its walled garden, chapel and surrounding cottages resembles a medieval manor house, but was in fact the brainchild of Lord and Lady Moyne of the Guinness brewing family and was only completed in the early 1930s.

Main House, the heart of the hotel, is a warren of passages and staircases off which sprout both cosy and large rooms that house a reception, lounges, dining rooms, a card room and a music room large enough for small weddings or intimate concerts. Upstairs are several suites, each with its own unique charm. Scattered among the cottages are many other comfortable suites, each furnished to suit the

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size and shape of the rooms in contemporary, classic or medieval style. We were delighted with ours, Baylies, which is the epitome of quirky luxury. Dominated by an inviting four-poster bed, the room is furnished with deep sofas in front of a wood-burning stove and, in the enormous bathroom, as well as an equally enormous shower and twin basins, there are twin baths, perfect for relaxing in with glasses of champagne. There are also plentiful treats and fluffy dog towels, which went down well with our young collie Gem, who was made to feel most welcome by the hotel. Only the resident peacock was less keen on making friends than she was – the bird was forced into flight for the first time in several years. The grounds are extensive, with pleasant level walks for gentle strolls through the woods, or you can take the five-minute path to Climping beach for a long, bracing tramp along the shingle. Like the hotel, the beach is dog-friendly all year round, which proves a great attraction for those who hate to leave their pets at home. The spa at Bailiffscourt is splendid, with treatment rooms for all kinds of therapies. Clients come for yoga classes and to use the gym and tennis courts as well as the beautiful indoor and outdoor pools. I had the excellent ‘Mediterranean Marinade’ facial, which was so relaxing that I had to be prised off the bed and out into the spring sunshine for another walk. If you are staying at the hotel, it’s a good idea to book your preferred treatment in advance, as the spa is very popular. Bailiffscourt is a great place for a peaceful break. Friendly and helpful staff do everything to make you feel at home. My only quibble is that the food isn’t quite up to the standard of the

of ancient brick and salvaged doors surroundings, but my husband didn’t complain when he chose the quail starter at dinner, which was to die for, and the perfectly cooked lamb. Plus, I very much enjoyed being offered a whisky to go with my breakfast porridge – a fine way to start any day in the British countryside. From £555, Climping Street, Climping, West Sussex, BN17 5RW, hshotels.co.uk

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Gran Meliá Palacio de los Duques

ike the best of Europe’s capital cities, Madrid is a contradiction of old and new, championing architecture, art and design from a number of eras, while still very much having its finger on the contemporary pulse. A perfect example of this display of creativity is, somewhat bizarrely, its international airport. The largest in Spain and the sixth largest in Europe, Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas was originally built in 1928, but its Terminal 4, constructed in 2008, seems almost otherworldly with its yellow support beams and undulating wooden roof. In the city centre, architectural feats come thick and fast and a stroll down Gran Vía – Madrid’s answer to Oxford Street – is a lesson in design. Start with the Art Deco Carrión Building and end with the Renaissance-inspired Edificio Grassy. Make the walk through the Old City to find the Royal Palace of Madrid, the official home of King Felipe VI, which offers a fascinating look into the life of the Spanish royal family, as well as a peak at some of the country’s most important frescoes and artworks by the likes of Francisco de Goya and Diego Velázquez. More Old Masters can be spotted in the city’s trio of art museums (set in an area known as the Golden Triangle of Art), and imitations of works by Velázquez found in the Gran Meliá Palacio de los Duques hotel, where the interiors are themed around the famous Spanish painter. When the temperature peaks, the Real Jardín Botánico de Madrid provides a welcome retreat from the bustling city. After exploring its eight hectare garden, where around 90,000 plants and flowers are grown, shelter from the sun in the Mercado San Miguel. This thriving indoor food market houses Madrid’s biggest triumph of all – delicious local food and an animated atmosphere.

Gran Meliá Palacio de los Duques

[city break ]

Madrid

The Spanish capital offers an informative lesson in art and design, as Ellen Millard discovers on a cultural tour of the city

Gran Vía

Royal Palace and sculptures of old Visigoth kings on Plaza de Oriente ©Andrii Zhezhera/shutterstock

GÁytan Restaurant

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Where to stay

Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas airport ©Alexandre Rotenberg/ shutterstock

Those looking to fill their cultural boots should start with the Gran Meliá Palacio de los Duques in Madrid’s Old City. Located in a former 19th-century palace, the interior is peppered with subtle design references to Velázquez – even the impressive display of bottles in the hotel’s wine bar, Montmartre, is themed around the artist’s favoured colour scheme. A different kind of palette is catered to in the attached former convent, which houses the Michelinstarred Torres brothers’ Dos Cielos Madrid restaurant. Dine on traditional Spanish cuisine before heading up to the rooftop pool, where an unrivalled view is sure to inspire even the most cynical of art critics. From £251 per night, melia.com

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Where to eat

Royal Palace

Towering martini glasses filled with frothy homemade mead, spongy brioche stuffed with lamb tongue and bite-size salsa and parmesan cheese burgers are what you can expect at Javier Aranda’s Gáytan Restaurant. The chef serves an impressive 12-dish tasting menu that blurs the line between food and theatre. Elsewhere, the Michelin-starred Punto MX offers a fuss-free tapas-style take on Mexican food. Try the guacamole and 90-day dry aged beef tacos, and a fiery Mezcal chaser. chefjavieraranda.com; puntomx.es

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Mayfair recommends

Real Jardín Botánico de Madrid

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Art aficionado or not, opt for a guided tour at Museo del Prado, during which you will see the best and most prominent artworks from the 12th to the early 20th century under the museum’s roof. The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum is another not to be missed. It houses a wealth of Old Masters, but it’s the Impressionists, Expressionists and Surrealists that truly stand out – look out for Picasso, Monet, Matisse and Van Gogh. museodelprado.es; museothyssen.org

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Epicurean

Escapes Is taking to the kitchen the activity of choice for a grand retreat? Camilla Apcar, Hannah Lemon and Lauren Romano visit three British boltholes where specialist cookery courses top the agenda

Pizza Perfect Lime Wood, New Forest Words: lauren romano

I manage to last a full 20 minutes before I let slip that my family is from Naples, the spiritual home of pizza. “The stuff is in your blood!” chef Iain Longhorn teases. Tossing dough and wielding a pizza shovel should be second nature, he adds, as we gather around the front bench for a demonstration on rolling our bases. Fortunately, there’s no throwing on the agenda today. The bite-sized cookery courses here – smoking hot salmon or sausage session anyone? – aren’t geared towards the show-off breed of budding chef. Designed to give a taster of what goes on behind the scenes at the hotel’s restaurant, where Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder man the stove, the hour-long classes are about home cooking, simple ingredients and fun – and end with a tasting session (and a beer), around the communal table.

Classes are hands-on and small (there are just five of us when I visit), with Iain encouraging us to get stuck in straight away after an introduction on the dough and pizzaiola sauce making procedures. He dishes out pearls of wisdom – “always buy Italian tinned tomatoes” – as he does the rounds, and there’s plenty of time to ask questions. We reconvene to talk toppings. There’s an oozing slab of taleggio, wilted spinach with garlic and roasted peppers submerged in extra virgin olive oil. “More is more,” Iain shouts as I add an extra hunk of ’nduja sausage for good measure. Nonna would be proud. From £65, limewoodhotel.co.uk

TRAVEL

clockwise from left: lucknam park; lucknam’s cookery school; thyme; Lime Wood’s HH&Co Backstage cookery school

In the summer, the course might start with a trip to pick herbs, tomatoes and root vegetables, but what dish your harvest ends up in will depend on Daryll and Marjorie’s whim (in my case, beetroot and ricotta gnocchi, followed by cherry tart). The full-day class certainly begs for an overnight stay... not that an excuse is really needed for the most stylish bedrooms and cottages to be found on Cotswolds’ rolling eastern edge. From £75, thyme.co.uk

Spanish Style Cuisine Lucknam Park, Cotswolds Words: hannah lemon

The Instinctive Cook Thyme, Cotswolds Words: camilla apcar

With its own sprawling kitchen garden, seasonal menus take on fresh and literal meaning at Thyme. This class focuses on ingredients rather than recipes – and teachers Marjorie Lang (a former Masterchef winner), and Daryll Taylor are patient and knowledgeable in equal measure. Since I’m the type more likely to successfully slice a finger than a vegetable, this The Good Life focus is fine with me. Just call me Barbara.

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Chef Ben Taylor’s method of running a kitchen suits me down to the ground. Each pristine work station is prepared Blue Peter style with cling-filmed bowls of ingredients laid out for our small group of four. As a relatively inexperienced cook (I only recently made my first lasagne), I start the all-day tapas course a little hesitantly. But the charming Taylor, who originally joined Lucknam Park as sous chef in its Michelin-starred The Park restaurant, immediately makes me feel at ease. He demonstrates each of the five dishes beforehand, whether it’s decadently cheesy Iberico ham croquettas or the Spanish staple of patatas bravas, and ensures that no one feels like they’re asking stupid questions. “How do you cut an onion?” is one of mine, but Taylor shows me how to professionally dice one in a split second. After gutting and stuffing squid with chorizo and piping puffy churros (surprisingly easy), we sit down to enjoy our hard work with a glass of wine. Whether you choose to bake bread, decorate Easter eggs or serve up Michelin-starred meals, Taylor’s cookery school guarantees you’ll be throwing the best dinner parties in town. From £175, lucknampark.co.uk

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The floating palace It provided the setting for one of the world’s most anticipated weddings, yet much of its charm lies hidden beneath the surface. Kate Harrison unmasks the Aman in Venice

enice is the epitome of romance – and the Aman hotel, which overlooks the Grand Canal, is a property that fits this sentiment perfectly. Perhaps now best known for hosting the nuptials of George and Amal Clooney, it sets a high expectation: one that it not only meets, but exceeds from arrival. The trip starts in the most relaxing way. We arrive at the hotel’s private jetty in a 1930s Art Deco speedboat, a treat that makes the hourlong journey from the airport an absolute pleasure. The chequered marble flooring and original frescos usher you into the lobby where you can expect a classic Aman welcome (a swift check-in by highly polished staff). The palazzo that the hotel is housed in was built in the 16th century, and after significant investment, has been brought back to its former glory, complete with Neo-Renaissance décor and original frescoes by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, the

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18th-century Old Master. Contemporary furnishings mix with traditional chandeliers and antique mirrors: Aman has truly given this property an air of serenity and stamped it with their signature elegance. Yet even surrounded by such grandeur, at its core it feels very much like a home, with winding corridors, a library and numerous lounges to retire to. This intimate boutique atmosphere is affirmed by its capacity – the hotel has 24 rooms, including five suites, so guests are unlikely to cross paths unless intended. The rooms are beautifully appointed with all the mod cons you would expect – and perhaps a few you wouldn’t. A Bang & Olufsen flat-screen television and a pre-loaded iPod and dock sit amongst chinoiserie paintings and more frescoes. Tall windows that overlook the Grand Canal offer a real life Canaletto vista. The bed is enormous, and the changing area large enough to unpack for a number of months. This is luxury on an altogether regal level.

Tall windows that overlook the Grand Canal offer a real life Canaletto painting A grand staircase leads up to the piano nobile and ballroom, which also has a view of the waterway. This leads onto the Blue Bar as well as glamorous Yellow and Red dining rooms where elegant Italian and Mediterranean dishes – paired with wines from the 500-strong cellar – are served by a kitchen team that is mentored by Davide Oldani, the Michelin-starred chef. The Yellow dining room enjoys canal views and an elaborate ceiling by 19th-century artist Cesare Rotta; the Red has garden views, Philippe Starck furnishings and a chandelier made with glass from Murano. Both are glamorous and offer the perfect setting for an intimate dinner of locally sourced cuisine. It seems impossible that a property so grand and opulent can also be so secluded with its hidden jetty entrance and private garden, yet over the summer months, breakfast or dinner can be whiled away in the manicured gardens overlooking the waterways. There is also a quiet terrace that offers the ideal spot for an aperitif

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while drinking in Venice’s terracotta rooftops as the sun goes down. The spa is an intimate affair: modern with Asian wood accents, tucked away on the third level of the garden building. I recommend the signature foot treatment with Himalayan salt exfoliation, which is followed by a peppermint and arnica foot massage and hot compress. It is a soothing treatment for tired feet that have been exploring. Staff, as you might expect, are attentive and regard no detail too small if it enhances comfort. Be sure to request a tour of the Palazzo (the first building in Venice to have electric lights and an

electric lift), where you can uncover its hidden gems and learn about its fascinating history. The hotel is located in the San Polo district, within a short walk of the Rialto Bridge and close to the Traghetto San Toma for convenient access to St Mark’s Square. Wander through the charming Dorsoduro neighbourhood, with its wonderful shops selling that famed Murano glass and carnival masks and, of course, indulge with prosecco and gelato pit-stops along the way. Even on a repeat visit, Venice appears more spectacular than memory serves. I somehow think the Aman – a beautiful base from which to explore all the city’s charms – might have something to do with it. Rooms start from €950, excluding taxes and fees, including breakfast and minibar, amanvenice.com

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Remembering

MAYFAIR The Running Horse WORDS: Hannah Lemon

nknown to some, we have the Italians to thank for the Great British pubs that this nation so highly esteem. Back in 43AD when the Romans brought with them straight roads and decent plumbing, they also built tabernae. This humble beginning of a tavern, which served only wine, was soon transformed into an alehouse thanks to the local demand for a cheaper beverage. Thus the public house was born, a term coined in the 18th century, the same time, coincidently, that The Running Horse, Mayfairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest pub, was opened. Centuries may have passed since the original publican first poured a pint there, but locals still thirst for their favourite tipple in the wooden-panelled and atmospherically lit pub. The Running Horse remains an essential watering hole for businessmen at the end of a long day, or for friends catching up over a bottle of its finest plonk. When the pub was opened in 1738, it was originally called The Galloping Horses of Hanover. Pubs would often use aristocratic names as this gave them a certain level of protection from the royal families who granted their licenses at the time. Landlords assumed that the king, queen or duke would be less likely to close a pub with their name on it.

Around the 1800s, however, a neighbouring pub changed its name from The Running Horse to The Only Running Footman (now The Footman), and so the title was passed on. Originally, The Running Horse was a saloon style bar where gentry would drink on one side and the more common folk the other. Now of course, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no such divide, but James Chase of Chase Distillery and Dominic Jacobs, ex-bar director of Sketch, who took over the establishment in 2013, have maintained many of the original features. Although the building has been rebuilt since its infancy, the cellars survive, and the first floor, which was a large dining room (something quite advanced for its day), is being renovated into a restaurant offering food from independent producers. The green tiles that surrounded the fireplace have now been used to form the back bar on the ground floor. The tiles would have been leftover slates from nearby tube stations, and the owners traced the same supplier that still makes them today. The equestrian theme, as can be judged by its name, allows for illustrations and photos of horses to decorate the bar and, in order to cater for the modern drinker, a cocktail bar upstairs has been dubbed The Whip. We wonder what the Romans would have thought of an espresso martini...

To cater for the modern drinker, a cocktail bar upstairs has been dubbed The Whip

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50 Davies Street, W1K, therunninghorsemayfair.co.uk

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Mayfair estate agents Beauchamp Estates 24 Curzon Street, W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722

Beauchamp Estates Private Office 29 Curzon Street, W1J 7TL 020 7408 0007 beauchamp.com

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John taylor 48 Berkeley Square W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888 john-taylor.com

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Rokstone 5 Dorset Street W1U 6QJ 020 7580 2030 rokstone.com

10 Gillingham Street SW1V 1HJ 020 3411 8386 (sales) chestertons.com

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

London Head Office 13 Hill Street W1J 5LQ 020 7629 7282

Knightsbridge 66 Sloane Street SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 struttandparker.com

Wetherell 102 Mount Street W1K 2TH 020 7493 6935 wetherell.co.uk

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Fine living

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Oceanic House, SW1, image courtesy of beauchamp estates

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Faster. Sell with Knight Frank. Our understanding of the everchanging market enables us to price your property accurately, so you can rely on Knight Frank to get you moving. Call us today to arrange your free market appraisal. KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484 Guide price: £999,995

Gilbert Street, Mayfair W1K

A two bedroom lateral apartment located within an attractive red brick building just south of Oxford Street. Situated on the fourth floor, this apartment would make a great rental investment or Mayfair pied-à-terre. 2 bedrooms, bathroom, reception room, kitchen. EPC: F. Approximately 53 sq m (568 sq ft). mayfair@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7484

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Guide price: £2,300,000

The Strand, Covent Garden WC2R A beautifully appointed one bedroom apartment located within a stunning new development, offering a 999 year lease, 24 hour concierge, parking and access to leisure facilities. Bedroom, bathroom, open plan reception/kitchen/dining room, hallway. Approximately 86 sq m (926 sq ft). mayfair@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7484

Mayfair Mag April

08/03/2017 15:27:27

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Brooks Mews, Mayfair W1K

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A beautifully refurbished apartment in the heart of Mayfair. Master bedroom with en suite bathroom, bright and spacious reception room, separate kitchen, guest WC and lift. Available furnished. EPC: C. Approximately 62 sq m (667 sq ft). mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7799

All potential tenants should be advised that as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

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Guide price: £3,750 per week

North Audley Street, Mayfair W1K A beautiful fourth floor apartment featuring private liftaccess, stunning period features and high ceilings. Master bedroom with en suite bathroom, 2 further bedrooms. 2 further bathrooms, reception/dining room and kitchen. Available furnished. EPC: C. Approx 214 sq m (2,306 sq ft). mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7799

Mafair Mag Lettings April S

20/03/2017 18:38:00

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COMPLE TION Q2 2018

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insight Astronomical assets Partner and head of Knight Frank Mayfair, Harvey Cyzer, reports on the highs and lows of the global property market

nvestment grade wine finally knocked classic cars off the top spot in the 2016 Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index (KFLII). The Knight Frank Fine Wine Icons Index recorded blistering growth of 24 per cent in 2016, compared with a relatively lacklustre nine per cent increase in the value of the HAGI Top Index, which tracks the performance of the world’s most desirable classic cars. The stellar performance of wine was driven by exceptionally strong growth in key areas across the world – particularly the resurgence of the top Bordeaux chateaux, which form the backbone of most investment cellars. In 2015 we saw growth of around eight per cent for the whole of the Bordeaux region, but last year was completely different. The top Bordeaux blue chips drove the market, growing nine per cent to the end of June. Brexit turbo-charged the market due to the devaluation of sterling, feeding more positive sentiment into a market that had already been gathering significant momentum. We believe Bordeaux will continue its trajectory, although gains could be less broad as the focus turns to value. For classic cars, 2016 was a year of slowdown. For anybody not familiar with the market, this looks like a slightly downbeat claim as annual growth was still a very respectable nine per cent.

Set against total growth of 151 per cent over the past five years, it is clear that the market has dropped down a few gears. The market is now in the hands of collectors and specialists, which I think is good news for the real enthusiast. Of the cars put up for sale at the top international auctions during 2016, 78 per cent sold by number, while the proportion of cars selling for below low estimates rose by 20 per cent. Several other asset classes produced some record breakers last year, even though their overall performance was relatively muted. The sparkliest was the Oppenheimer Blue, a vivid blue 14.62-carat diamond sold by Christie’s for almost $51m, making it the most expensive jewel ever sold at auction. The biggest contributor to last year’s slide was art, which dropped by 14 per cent according to auction data analysed for The Wealth Report. However, auction results are only part of the story. They only represent 45 per cent of the market, and this year there has been reluctance among vendors – perhaps concerned by Brexit and other economic worries – to consign their best works unless they really had to sell. Since the global financial crisis, people have been much more wary of overpaying for things.

Last year top Bordeaux blue chips drove the market, which was turbo-charged by Brexit, growing nine per cent to the end of June

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Knight Frank Mayfair, 120a Mount Street, W1K, 020 7499 1012, knightfrank.co.uk

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Computer generated image is indicative only.

One Park Drive overlooking South Dock, Canary Wharf

Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first residential tower by Herzog & de Meuron Launching Spring 2017

One Park Drive 483 apartments located across 58 storeys on the private Canary Wharf Estate

Sales Enquiries +44 (0)20 7001 3800 canarywharf.com/residential residential.sales@canarywharf.com

[ hot property]

Great Marlborough Street, W1

duplex penthouse has become available on Great Marlborough Street in Soho, walking distance from Marylebone, Mayfair and Fitzrovia. The property was cited as one of the top ten boutique schemes under construction in CBREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hot 100 report of the London residential market in 2015. The four-bedroom apartment spans 2,307sq ft, has two private outdoor spaces and is accessed via a private lift.

The vast open-plan kitchen, living room and dining area has light timber flooring and high ceilings, looking out onto bustling Soho from large sash windows. Light fills the space from a secluded terrace at the rear that leads out from the streamlined Leicht kitchen: the perfect setting for al fresco summer dinner parties. The kitchen itself is kitted out with Gaggenau appliances and stone worktops, and features a floating island with bar stools for laid-back drinking and dining.

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There are four bedrooms upstairs. The master bedroom looks out onto Great Marlborough Street. Its en-suite bathroom, along with three others, is equipped with underfloor heating and modern designer fittings. Bowers & Wilkins ceiling-mounted speakers are fixed in almost every room and there are wall-mounted iPads to control lighting. Ascend the stairs again and you will reach the expansive 576sq ft roof terrace, which offers spectacular views across

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central London and is the ideal spot for get-togethers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or simply sunbathing in peace. Considering its prime location, this apartment offers unrivalled space both inside and out, a secluded sanctuary in the heart of the city. ÂŁ5,295,000. For more information, contact Beauchamp Estates, 24 Curzon Street, W1J, 020 7499 7722, beauchamp.com

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A COLLECTION OF 7 APARTMENTS LOCATED IN ST JAMESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Oceanic House presents the rare opportunity to purchase a unique apartment at the heart of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West End, in an exclusive new development steeped in history. The imposing former White Star Line headquarters - the booking office of the glamorous Titanic ocean liner - has been sensitively redeveloped to provide six apartments and one two-storey penthouse for private sale.

Leasehold

Prices starting

Approx. 125 years

from

remaining

ÂŁ4,750,000

paul@beauchamp.com +44 (0)20 7499 7722

CADOGAN GARDENS CHELSEA SW3 A BRIGHT, MODERN RECENTLY REFURBISHED THREE BEDROOM APARTMENT Fully furnished to the highest standard with quality fixtures and fittings throughout. This unique apartment comprises of three bedrooms one of which is ensuite, with their own private balconies. Surrounded by leafy parks and located just two minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; walk from Sloane Square underground and all of the local amenities. Accommodation: Entrance hall, reception room, kitchen, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms. Amenities: 3 balconies, communal garden, 1,854 sqft.

£3,500 / Week

Karolina@beauchamp.com

No tenant fees

+44 (0)20 7499 7722

www.beauchamp.com

24 Curzon Street, London W1J 7TF

+44 (0)20 7722 9793

Twice the advice Pastor Real Estate’s second office opened in December on Curzon Street, and is dedicated to sales. Camilla Apcar speaks to David Lee about the company’s expansion

aking a stroll down Curzon Street might result in a double take as you approach the Queen Street zebra crossing. Fear not, you are not seeing estate agent double – in December Pastor Real Estate opened a second office at number 11, directly opposite its head office at number 48. “It has been an exciting start to 2017,” says head of sales David Lee. “With the continued expansion of the company, our plan is to further cement ourselves in the heart of Mayfair. This a great opportunity to grow our business and showcase our services to the local area and beyond.” The new office is dedicated to sales, and will work closely alongside the lettings, architectural service and property management teams, which continue to be run from number 48. “Having two offices opposite one another holds an intrinsic value that other agencies do not have in Mayfair,” says Lee. “We feel this is an excellent location to operate our core sales and lettings businesses from, and are very much looking forward to continued success with our second office.” As might be imagined, Lee is pleased that Pastor Real Estate’s new office is positioned just a few steps away from other independent establishments: the gentlemen’s barber and perfumer, Geo. F. Trumper, and the bookshop Heywood Hill. Little House, part of the Soho House group, is also next door. “The design of the new office was intended to be modern, warm and welcoming. Immediately when people walk past, they feel that they can come in, sit down and discuss their requirements over a cup of coffee.” Having two offices has kept the team busy. As Lee explains: “The footfall is quite staggering. We’ve more than doubled the number of applicant registrations in the first three months

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from left: sales negotiator Simon Green, office administrator Sofie Kofod and David Lee in front of the new office; 11 curzon street; the eaton gate townhouse

“The design of the new office was intended to be modern, warm and immediately welcoming” of the year in comparison to last year. Our second office has certainly played a part in attracting new customers.” In some ways, the southern end of Mayfair has offered purchasers more value for money, says Lee. “However, with the various new developments under construction in the immediate area, pricing here has hit record levels, in excess of £4,000 per sq ft for some of the brand new apartments,” he reports. “Despite the somewhat uncertain economic situation we find ourselves in at the moment, demand for both residential and commercial property in Mayfair is very stable. This highly contested pocket of prime central London will no doubt remain a popular destination for the foreseeable future.” The charm and character of Shepherd Market also remains a large pull. “With its village-like atmosphere, it remains very popular, particularly for those seeking art galleries and fine dining,” describes Lee.

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While Mayfair has historically seen fewer transactions in comparison to other central London areas, Lee says this year is off to a strong start. “I think many would-be purchasers have been watching the market for quite some time and feel they have waited long enough. Now that spring has arrived, buying activity has started to increase and sales are being agreed,” says Lee. Pastor has just completed the sale of an unmodernised 6,225 sq ft Grade II-listed townhouse in Belgravia, built in 1905. It was one within a terrace of five on Eaton Gate – and came with full planning permission, Portland stone cladding from the basement level to the second floor, nine bedrooms and a library. What sets Pastor Real Estate apart is its ability to see projects through from start to finish: to source a property; obtain planning permission with the company’s architectural team; project manage; refurbish; then source a tenant or purchaser depending upon the clients’ individual requirements. “We do everything in-house,” says Lee, “with a dedicated property manager in Mayfair.” It hardly gets more local than that. 11 Curzon Street, W1, pastor-realestate.com

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www.pastor-realestate.com

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Â£4,500,000 FREEHOLD

A rare new build development opportunity with the benefit of full planning permission to create a contemporary five storey freehold house, including the addition of a new basement and roof extension. The property is currently stripped out and ready to be developed. The proposed gross internal area of 2,449 sq ft (228 sq m) will include the following accommodation: Large Kitchen / Dining Room | First Floor Reception Room with South Facing Terrace | Master Suite with En-Suite Bathroom & Dressing Area | 2 Further Double Bedrooms with En-Suite Bathrooms | Media Room | Patio | Lift

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DEVELOPMENT OPPORTUNITY FOR SALE: MARKET MEWS, MAYFAIR, W1J

FURTHER FURTHERDETAILS DETAILSFOR FORALL ALL SALES SALES CONTACT: CONTACT: +44 +44 (0)20 (0)20 3879 3879 8989 8989 sales@pastor-realestate.com sales@pastor-realestate.com 11 11Curzon CurzonStreet, Street,London, London,W1J W1J5HJ 5HJ

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MIXED-USE INVESTMENT FOR SALE: SHEPHERD MARKET, MAYFAIR, W1J

£6,500,000 VIRTUAL FREEHOLD

A newly developed mixed-use building, conveniently located in Shepherd Market. The ground and basement floors contain a retail unit (A1) with three beautiful interior designed one bedroom apartments on the upper floors, developed to a very high specification throughout to include bespoke kitchens with Miele appliances, corian & marble shower rooms, air conditioning and solid wood flooring with under floor heating. Mixed-Use | Retail Unit & 3 Newly Developed Apartments | Virtual Freehold

MIXED-USE INVESTMENT FOR SALE: SHEPHERD MARKET, MAYFAIR, W1J

£2,150,000 VIRTUAL FREEHOLD

A rare opportunity to acquire a fully-let, mixed-use investment property in the heart of Shepherd Market. The retail unit is spread over ground and basement with a stunning one bedroom duplex apartment benefiting from its own entrance on the upper floors. The apartment has been refurbished to a very high specification by the current owner and includes a custom designed Italian kitchen with granite counter. Mixed-Use | Retail Unit & 1 Newly Refurbished Apartment | Virtual Freehold

www.pastor-realestate.com

FOR SALE CHESTERFIELD HOUSE, MAYFAIR, W1J

£1,695,000

Brand newly refurbished 1 bedroom 1st floor apartment set within a purpose built block with lift and 24 hour porter. Features include: original fireplace with elegant parquet flooring, 1940’s antique crystal chandelier and a bespoke kitchen with integrated Siemens appliances. The double bedroom boasts ample storage space with oak wardrobes and LED lighting. Leasehold plus Share of Freehold. 1 bedroom | 1 bathroom | Newly Renovated | Lift | 24 hour Porter | Share of Freehold

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FOR SALE CHELSEA MANOR STREET, CHELSEA, SW3

£899,950

A beautifully refurbished and well-proportioned one bedroom flat, situated on the ground floor of a highly regarded mansion block near Kings Road. Benefitting from 24 hour porterage, the bright apartment consists of a reception room, fully equipped separate kitchen, bathroom and large bedroom with fitted storage. The property will make an ideal home, pied-à-terre or rental investment. Leasehold 116 years. 1 bedroom | 1 bathroom | Newly Renovated | 24 hour Porter | Long Lease

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TO LET SACKVILLE STREET, MAYFAIR, W1

£810 per week - Furnished

Well presented interior designed 7th floor apartment in a modern development close to Old Bond Street finished to a high specification to include hardwood flooring to entrance hall and reception room, air conditioning, extensive range of fitted wardrobes to bedrooms and an additional basement storage room. 2 Double Bedrooms I Reception Room I Fully Fitted Kitchen I Luxury Bathroom I Utility Cupboard

TO LET SHEPHERD STREET, MAYFAIR, W1

£4,000 per week - Furnished

Superb modern house located on a quiet residential Mayfair street moments from shops restaurants and Green Park with double length integral garage and three wonderful private terrace/patio areas. Other features include Lutron lighting, Crestron media system, central vacuuming, air conditioning and a wine room. 3 Double Bedrooms I 3 Bathrooms I Cinema Room I Kitchen/Dining Room I Reception Room I Double Garage

FURTHER FURTHERDETAILS DETAILSFOR FORALL ALLLETTINGS LETTINGS CONTACT: CONTACT: +44 +44 (0)20 (0)20 3195 3195 9595 9595 lettings@pastor-realestate.com lettings@pastor-realestate.com 48 48Curzon CurzonStreet, Street,London, London,W1J W1J7UL 7UL

Pastor Real Estate 48 Curzon Street MAYFAIR W1J 7UL London

Pastor Real Estate 11 Curzon Street MAYFAIR W1J 5HJ London

T: +44 (0) 20 3195 9595 F: +44 (0) 20 3195 9596 E: contact@pastor-realestate.com

T: +44 (0) 20 3879 8989 F: +44 (0) 20 3195 9596 E: sales@pastor-realestate.com

Lettings Investment Architecture Consultancy Commercial Project Management Property Management

Sales

www.pastor-realestate.com

Mayfair Showroom 66 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 3JL 28 offices in Central London and over 60 across London

St James’s Place, SW1A £6,100,000

An elegant Grade II Listed freehold townhouse which is presented in excellent condition throughout. This house has many period features with the original panelling, sash windows and shutters having been recently refurbished. There are three reception rooms, five bedrooms, five bathrooms and a patio terrace. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590

Upper Brook Street, W1K £3,650,000

A newly refurbished two bedroom apartment on the fifth floor of this period block with lift and porter. There is a large south facing drawing room offering impressive living space, a separate kitchen off the hallway and two double bedrooms both with en suite shower rooms, energy rating c. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590

dexters.co.uk

Grosvenor Hill, W1K £2,900 per week

A magnificent split level two bedroom apartment, individually designed to the highest specification. The property has two interconnecting reception rooms, a stunning eat-in kitchen and two double bedrooms with en suite marble bathrooms. The apartment also benefits from a spectacular private decked roof terrace to the rear of the property, energy rating e. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9595 Tenants fees apply: £180 per tenancy towards administration, £60 reference fee per tenant and £144 towards the end of tenancy check out report (all inc VAT).

Montagu Mews West, W1H £2,300 per week

A four bedroom mews house at the end of a cobbled cul de sac in Marylebone. Arranged over two floors, this house has a double reception room with wooden flooring and french doors opening onto a private patio. There is a separate kitchen, a study, three bathrooms and a small balcony off of the master bedroom suite, energy rating d. Dexters Marylebone 020 7224 5545

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In the thick of it Residential Land’s two latest Mayfair buildings are ready to let on Green Street and Duke Street – boasting bespoke kitchens and roof terraces between them

esidential Land, founded by property expert and benefactor Bruce Ritchie, has a quarter of a century of central London market experience behind it. The company is the largest private landlord in prime central London, with more than 1,200 properties located within the capital’s golden postcodes. Each rented property includes in-house services such as 24/7 maintenance, surveyors and letting agents and a dedicated company representative. Residential Land’s 100-strong team is based on Grosvenor Street, just around the corner from two of its newest sets of apartments. “We are delighted to add these two buildings to our rental portfolio,” says Stuart Birke, head of lettings. “Mayfair is an internationally-recognised destination with so much to offer its residents, from Michelin-starred restaurants to five-star shopping facilities, locals can benefit from an array of different services.” The first is the Grade II-listed 65 Duke Street. A relatively quiet spot considering its proximity to Oxford 65 Duke Street

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62 Green Street

Street, the entrance is flanked by familiar Mayfair stores such as The Shop at Bluebird and E. Tautz. Behind the six storey, red-bricked façade lies 16 refurbished apartments that are decked out in a spectrum of classic and contemporary styles. Each one-, two- or three-bedroom property is kitted out to the highest specifications: bespoke Bulthaup kitchens with Gaggenau appliances and an on-site concierge who monitors the building-wide CCTV system are just two of the benefits of renting here. Just a short walk down Oxford Street or a stroll through Mayfair will lead you to Residential Land’s luxe apartments at 62 Green Street – boasting all the spoils of Duke Street, and more. The 1890s building has been transformed into nine apartments over four floors. The three top-floor rentals are triplex properties that include private roof terraces and have been designed by the superb Helen Green Design, whose portfolio includes The Berkeley hotel. 59 -60 Grosvenor Street, W1K, 020 7408 5155, residentialland.com

65 Duke Street

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EXCLUSIVE LUXURY MAYFAIR APARTMENTS TO RENT

DUKE STREET

A SELECTION OF ONE, TWO & THREE BEDS PRICES FROM £1,600 PER WEEK

GREEN STREET

A SELECTION OF ONE, TWO & THREE BEDS PRICES FROM £1,400 PER WEEK

GROSVENOR STREET

A SELECTION OF ONE & TWO BEDS PRICES FROM £920 PER WEEK

YOUR MAYFAIR LANDLORD Residential Land have over 1000 properties to rent in the best postcodes across the capital.

HILL STREET A SELECTION OF STUDIOS, ONE, TWO & THREE BEDS PRICES FROM £420 PER WEEK

59-60 Grosvenor Street, Mayfair, W1K 3HZ 020 7408 5155 enquiries@residentialland.com

www.residentialland.com

PRIME CENTRAL LONDON’S LARGEST PRIVATE LANDLORD

Transforming Mayfair Grosvenor’s grand plans for Prime Central London

rosvenor Britain & Ireland has published a 20-year vision to “transform its London estate and tackle the pressures facing the capital”, starting by significantly amping up digital connectivity in Mayfair and Belgravia and taking back the management of Grosvenor Square from the Royal Parks. It aims to create a more inclusive enclave in prime central London “with better streets, greener spaces and more

PrimeQResi Journal of Luxury Property

active and enterprising places that appeal to the many, not just to the few”. In keeping with such ideals, the firm wants more stakeholders to get involved: it’s calling for new partnerships between public and private sectors, and with those who live and work on the estate, to bring about change. Grosvenor’s kicking off the vision right away with two projects. The first is about swiftly shifting its core area from being in the worst five per cent of the country for digital connections, into the top five per cent. Grosvenor has committed to introducing new superfast and ultrafast broadband connections across almost 75 per cent of the estate, in one of the London’s largest ‘single estate’ broadband upgrades, and piloting a free public WiFi service – which could cover half a square mile in the next three years. New 4G mobile connections will also be brought in “to deliver a step change improvement in coverage”. Openreach, Ventura Next, WiFi SPARK and the planning authorities are all involved in this project alongside Grosvenor. The second project is all about taking back control of Grosvenor Square. Grosvenor will be given back responsibility for managing Grosvenor Square from Royal Parks, in partnership with the Department for Culture, Media and Sport. It has pledged to “invest in the square alongside surrounding businesses”, and, later this year, will open a public call for ideas to make this green space – larger than Trafalgar Square – “a great garden square for Londoners” fit for the 21st century.

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Bringing down the house

image courtesy of clivedale

Lodha deconstructs complex façade at No.1 Grosvenor Square Lodha UK is making some impressive progress with its redevelopment of the former Canadian High Commission on Grosvenor Square. The UK arm of India’s largest real estate developer bought the striking neo-Georgian building for £306m in 2014 and is in the process of transforming it into a 200,000sq ft luxury scheme to a design by Eric Parry. Contractors McGee and PAYE have now completed the deconstruction of the vast façades, a job that involved numbering, dismantling and packaging the original bricks and stone masonry, and transporting the whole lot – 2,000 pallets worth – to a secure off-site location for storage ahead of the planned reconstruction. As painstaking as that may all sound, it will allow the scheme to hit ceiling heights of between 3.1 and 4.2m, says the firm, which will be “among the highest of any new residential development in London”. Lodha’s other big play in London – Lincoln Square – is delivering a 200-unit scheme right next to the Royal Courts of Justice in Holborn. Marketing began in earnest last year and we hear phase one sales have just hit the threequarter mark.

Up, up and away Clivedale praised for new Hanover Square designs

livedale’s Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners-designed scheme for 22 Hanover Square – Mayfair’s oldest square – has been given the green light (subject to a £9.5m affordable housing/ local improvement contribution) after a glowing reception from Westminster’s planning team. The corner site will be rebranded Hanover Bond. There was already planning in place for a nine-storey hotel and 41 residential apartments, but the developer wants to create something in two blocks of up to 11 storeys, delivering a 50-room boutique hotel – with roof terrace bar – and up to 81 serviced apartments. Ahead of a formal decision, Westminster City Council planning officers advised the authority’s planning committee that Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners’s new designs mark a “substantial improvement” on the existing “monolithic” 1920s building, said officers, arguing that: “The key benefits offered by the building in townscape terms are derived from its reduced bulk and mass next to the Grade II-listed No. 24 and the neighbouring unlisted buildings in Brook Street. The careful balancing of horizontal and vertical lines on the new façades recalls the historic architecture of the square. “The detailed design and palette of materials creates façades of appropriate scale and detail, with the set-back upper floors of the main block further reducing the apparent size of the building when compared to the existing monolithic structure.”

primeresi.com

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Woods Mews - £11,000,000

Hays Mews - £7,350,000

SH O RT

MAYFAIR’S FINEST H

South Street - £5,000 per week

Hays Mews - £1,200 per week

Tenant Fees Apply - £240.00 inclusive of VAT is payable by the Tenant for Wetherell conducting tenant checks, credit checks and drawing up a tenancy agreement. Cost is payable per unit dwelling.

bringing residential life back to mayfair

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Mount Row - £3,250,000

Upper Brook Street - £6,000 per week

T HOUSES Whether Mansion or Mews there is nothing quite like coming home to your own front door. Wetherell have the finest selection of houses for sale or rental in Mayfair.

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7493 6935 E: mail@wetherell.co.uk Adams Row - £4,250,000

wetherell.co.uk

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell

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O NEW U R T EP N ORT O W WETHERELL’S NEW MARKET REPORT

Sophistication BY Peter Wetherell

Founder and Chief Executive of Wetherell

THE TERM SOPHISTICATION WAS POPULARISED BY MAYFAIR RESIDENT BEAU BRUMMELL (1778– 1840) AN OLD ETONIAN AND ORIEL COLLEGE, OXFORD GRADUATE WHO LIVED IN CHESTERFIELD STREET AND WAS ARGUABLY THE ORIGINATOR OF THE SUIT AND TIE. As the original ‘Dandy’ he was asked how much it would cost to keep a single man in clothes to which he replied “Why, with a tolerable economy, I think it might be done with £800”. When you consider that at the time the average wage of a craftsman was £52 per annum then this would amount to well over half a million pounds in today’s value. Today the word ‘sophistication’ can also represent something that has developed a high degree of complexity and yet is seamless and enjoyable to use – as in ‘a sophisticated restaurant’ or ‘a sophisticated computer system’ or app that captures the imagination of the user and is as such – a joy to use.

highlights include • SOPHISTIC ATION IN MAYFAIR • CELEBRATIONS • MARKET ANALYSIS FOR 2016 • NEW DEVELOPMENT MARKET • PREDICTIONS FOR 2017 • MAYFAIR GURU RECOMMENDS • SECRETS REVEALED – PERSONAL TRAINER • ATED RE-VALUATIONS FOR 2017 • ANNOUNCEMENT

For your copy visit our ofﬁce at 102 Mount Street, Mayfair W1, email us at mail@wetherell.co.uk or call 020 7493 6935 and we will forward a complimentary copy to you.

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7493 6935 E: mail@wetherell.co.uk

wetherell.co.uk

bringing residential life back to mayfair

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THE APARTMENTS 5 QUEEN STREET MAYFAIR W1

A Boutique Development of 6 Luxury Apartments in the heart of Mayfair with a Porter and Share of Freehold. Price £5,200,000 - £8,500,000

JSA: Knight Frank

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7529 5566 E: sales@wetherell.co.uk

wetherell.co.uk

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell

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