The Mayfair Magazine March 2017 by Runwild Media Group

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CONTENTS March 2017 Regulars 10 Editor’s letter 12 Five minutes with... Fashion designer Philipp Plein 14 Couture culture The worlds of fashion, film and art collide in March’s cultural round-up 64 United tastes Try this season’s latest trends for size 106 Remembering Mayfair The daringly deceptive history of S.J. Phillips

Features 18

The estate of fashion Lady Burlington speaks to Camilla Apcar about a new exhibition at Chatsworth House

30 22 26

30 Green is the new black A new sustainable age in fashion has dawned, says Marianne Dick 50 Facing forwards The unusual and fresh allure of portraiture 60 Grand bazaar Elisa Anniss discovers the Turkish talents making waves in the UK 80 At first blush How to welcome catwalk cool into your home 93 Eastern promise Visit the Oriental Club for authentic Asian fare, says Nick Hammond 102 Castles on the continent Which will come out on top in a battle of chateau versus schloss? 104 Sounds and sweet airs Nick Smith waxes lyrical on a classic island getaway to Bermuda

A stitch in time Kari Colmans looks to the future of the House of Schiaparelli In fine feather Hannah Lemon talks couture with designer Nicholas Oakwell

35 Collection

55 Fashion

84 Health & beauty

97 Travel

47 Art

78 Interiors

90 Food & drink

107 Property

editor’s letter

editor

From the MARCH 2017 s issue 066

Editor Hannah Lemon Deputy Editor Camilla Apcar Contributing Editor Lauren Romano Jewellery Editor Olivia Sharpe Watch Editor Richard Brown Acting Assistant Editor Marianne Dick Editorial Intern James Coney Senior Designer Daniel Poole

“Luxury and sustainability are two sides of the same coin”

Junior Designer Paris Fielder

Diana Verde Nieto

Production Alice Ford Jamie Steele Hugo Wheatley

Rifling through family hand-me-downs of corduroy flares or outdated floral shirts can be an entertaining exercise, but Lady Laura Burlington has gone one step further. She has opened up the wardrobes belonging to her in-laws – who happen to be the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. The result? An extensive exhibition at Chatsworth House covering everything from Dior gowns to Savile Row tailoring (p.18). While we look back at bygone eras (Ron Falloon’s 1960s photos on p.47 and 90 years of Schiaparelli on p.22), we must also think seriously about the future. Sustainability is high on the sartorial agenda at Selfridges with its Material World display that aims to save the globe one thread and fibre at a time (p.30). Innovative technologies may help eradicate fast fashion, but there’s surely something to be learned from the Devonshires’ ‘make do and mend’ attitude.

General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

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Ron Falloon, Jean Shrimpton wearing a Susan Small gown, London, 1962, from the exhibition the art of speed, 20-25 March, 54 Shepherd Market, W1J, zebraonegallery.com (see p.47)

luxurylondon.co.uk A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.

Celebrating 100 years of

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Regulars

5 minutes with...

I studied law – although, I abandoned the idea of becoming a lawyer and pursued a career in design instead. In the beginning, I made luxury beds for dogs.

My first ‘home’ collection launched in 1998. With some savings and a little help from my father, I created a few interiors and outdoor pieces. London. But I think Mayfair is the essence of the city: glamorous and cosmopolitan. It perfectly represents the mood of my collections.

I am very focused. I know exactly what I want and where I want to arrive. I never stop until I get there.

The exact moment I decided to start designing was when I created a parka with a Swarovski skull to help sell a closet. I received more requests for the parka than for the closet.

The Philipp Plein brand is in-your-face luxury: strong and unapologetic. It’s a style for self-confident people who have a rock’n’roll spirit.

Street style inspires me. The cool kids on the streets are the ones who wear the fashion of tomorrow.

Philipp Plein The extrovert German fashion designer reveals why he chose to launch his 107th store at 98 New Bond Street

I’m a real workaholic. I work everywhere: at my Lugano headquarters, in my brand new Milan showroom and in my holiday homes in Cannes and New York.

More is definitely more. My latest collection transforms jeans and tracksuits into superluxe pieces with crocodile prints, intricate embellishment and layers of heavy gold jewellery. Baseball caps, high-tops and bomber jackets are elevated into street-style couture.

I’m also the creative director for Billionaire Couture. It aims to be the most exclusive men’s brand in the world. Inspired by playboys and fortune-makers, it presents an extravagant and rich wardrobe.

The Bulgari in Knightsbridge is my hotel of choice when I’m in

I like to feel comfortable,

“Philipp Plein is in-yourface luxury: strong and unapologetic”

especially at work and when I’m travelling. Joggers, T-shirts, leather jackets and trainers are my everyday uniform.

If my house was on fire I would save my iPhone and my Rolls-Royce.

Fergie and Paris Hilton were at the S/S17 show. They are fun, clockwise from From top: phillip plein by steven klein; the bulgari hotel london by massimo listri; jackets and bag from women's s/s17 collection; s/s17 campaign; rolls-royce, shutterstock.com

uninhibited, have a great fashion sense, and match perfectly with the soul of my brand. s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

GIVE THE GIFT OF LUXURY FOR MOTHER’S DAY For the woman who has always been there for you, this Mother’s Day, treat her to a hand-picked gift from the ELEMIS range at The House of ELEMIS, Mayfair

Speak to an ELEMIS therapist about our Gift Vouchers. The House of ELEMIS 2 Lancashire Court, Mayfair, London, W1S 1EX, UK T: +44 (0)20 7499 4995

Gift Cards available online ELEMIS.COM/houseofelemis timetospa.co.uk

image credit: liz mills

literary itinerary

agenda “It’s truly humbling that people still enjoy these songs from so many years ago, reliving the emotions of that time.” As Dame Vera Lynn turns 100 on 20 March, her words couldn’t ring truer. Three days before she celebrates her birthday, the Forces’ sweetheart will release her album Vera Lynn 100 through Decca Records, the same label she recorded with at 22. A day later there will be a variety concert, raising money for The Dame Vera Lynn Children’s Charity. Performances will include the Royal Air Force Dance Orchestra – The Squadronaires – of which Lynn’s late husband, Harry Lewis, was a founding member. 17 March, release of Vera Lynn 100; 18 March, 7.30pm, 100: A Tribute to Dame Vera Lynn, London Palladium, rutlive.co.uk

Couture culture theatre

An American in Paris

After glowing reviews in both New York and Paris, the hit musical An American in Paris comes to the Dominion Theatre, bringing with it a Tony award-winning cast. In the aftermath of World War II, American Veteran Jerry Mulligan (Robert Fairchild) tries to make it as a painter in the French capital where he meets Lise (Leanne Cope), a young dancer. Caught in a love triangle between Jerry and his friend Henri, Lise has to decide whether to follow her head or her heart. Get ready to relive the soundtrack of original songs such as ’S Wonderful and jazz tune I Got Rhythm. From 4 March, Dominion Theatre, W1T, anamericaninparisthemusical.co.uk

Fashion historian Olivier Saillard is celebrating Dior’s 70th anniversary with a series of books on the designers who worked at the famous house. First up is Dior by Christian Dior, which looks back at one of the most famous collections in fashion history: the 1947 New Look, as well as the elegant Fuseau line presented for A/W 1957. Photos from Laziz Hamani document the period of change over which Christian Dior reigned, alongside images from carefully preserved exhibits in museums and institutions around the world. Dior by Christian Dior by Olivier Saillard, photography by Laziz Hamani, £150, Assouline, assouline.com

Première Soirée ballgown in white acetate satin, worn by Geneviève page ©Laziz Hamani

Regulars

top picks Front row ready Prepare to be papped in this glam get-up

#1 Sunglasses, £75, karenmillen.com

FILM

Viceroy’s House

ownton Abbey star Hugh Bonneville features alongside fellow British favourites Gillian Anderson and Michael Gambon in the historical drama Viceroy’s House. The film depicts the final days of the British Raj and the decision to partition India by religion. The story focuses on the Delhi residence of the

final Viceroy of India, Lord Louis Mountbatten, who, while coordinating the handover of power from the Empire to the people, resides above 500 servants from a diverse range of faiths. It’s another fresh cultural perspective from Bend It Like Beckham director Gurinder Chadha. In cinemas from 3 March poa, Available in store from March, 4 Davies Street, Mayfair, W1K, turnbullandasser.co.uk

#2 Scarf, £695, temperleylondon.com

#3 Bag, £835, brownsfashion.com

#4 Earrings, £3,250, mayfairjewellers.com

Release your inner 1970s boy racer with Turnbull & Asser’s Monaco Grand Prix-inspired shirts

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#5 Hat, £495, joseph-fashion.com

Local news A call for a cure

SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP With the US influencing headlines around the world on a daily basis, now is a good time to reflect on the country’s influence on Mayfair. The Americans in Mayfair walk will take you on a 90-minute tour of the area, providing insight into the special relationship between London’s classiest district and the US. Learn about actors, musicians and politicians, from Franklin D. Roosevelt to Dwight Eisenhower, who moved here from across the pond. From £9, 11 March, 11am, footprintsoflondon.co.uk

Home sweet home A place of comfort, memories and emotion, a home is unique to everyone. In a new exhibition entitled House Work, Victoria Miro Mayfair has drawn together paintings that explore the concept of a house as more than just a physical form. Work from artists such as David Harrison, Cy Twombly and Marc Chagall shows their creative interpretations, from dark and atmospheric street scenes to vibrant Los Angeles pool parties. Until 18 March, 14 St George Street, W1S, victoria-miro.com

A Statue of Franklin D. Roosevelt in Grosvenor Square, ©Eugene Regis/Shutterstock

In Association with The Residents’ Society of Mayfair & St James’s Committee Members

Chair

Secretary

(Policy & Traffic)

(Crossrail & Finance)

Lois Peltz

Richard Cutt

CALL FOR A CURE images, from left: Jonathon Yeo, Mr, 2016, Perspex cube, oil, Gold, Acrylic paint, 20 x 20 x 20cm; Rob and Nick Carter, Returning, 2016, Perspex Cube, ipad and plexiglass, 20 x 20 x 20cm; Conrad Shawcross, Untitled, 2016, Perspex, aluminium, nylon and paper, 20 x 20 x 20cm, close up

Hernan Bas, Preferring the out to the indoor night, 2010, acrylic, airbrush, household, gloss and block print on linen, 152.4 x 182.9 x 5.1cm, ©Hernan Bas, photographer: Nicola Kuperus, Courtesy the Artist and Victoria Miro, London

Artwise, Bonhams and the David Ross foundation are teaming up this month to raise awareness and cash for The Cure Parkinson’s Trust. More than 50 artists have been invited to create a work of art within a 20cm3 box inspired by the words ‘slow, stop and reverse’. Pieces ranging from £1,000 to more than £10,000 will be sold across a two-day exhibition called Cube3. Expect to see the likes of Grayson Perry, Damien Hirst, Alison Jackson, Jonathan Yeo, Polly Morgan and many more. 13-15 March, Bonhams, 101 New Bond Street, W1S, cureparkinsons.org.uk

Regulars

Goodbye bridezilla

Suzannah Obsession dress in watermelon

Planning a wedding can be a stressful affair. One thing you don’t need to worry about is finding a dress, thanks to Jenny Packham and the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park. With an exclusive catwalk show, champagne and afternoon tea, finding the perfect frock couldn’t be more relaxing. Brides will have the chance to view the complete Jenny Packham 2017 collection, as well as enjoy bridal makeovers from Bobbi Brown and massages from Jo Malone London. 1 April, 3-5.30 pm, Mandarin Oriental, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X, jennypackham.com

Modelling for Mencap In aid of Mencap, the UK’s largest learning disability charity, designer Suzannah Crabb will be showcasing her latest S/S17 collection at the Sheraton Grand Park Lane in its beautifully restored Art Deco ballroom. Drinks and canapés will be served on arrival and guests will get the chance to browse a selection of stalls selling jewellery, clothing and gifts, as well as work by milliners Rachel Trevor-Morgan, Edwina Ibbotson, Juliette Botterill, and Jane Taylor. £110, 27 March, Sheraton Grand Park Lane, W1J, mencap.org.uk

Planning Applications Ronald Cottee (Planning)

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Chef Tong Chee Hwee from HKK

Who’s cooking dinner? For one night only the Four Seasons Park Lane is to host the 18th annual Who’s Cooking Dinner? fundraiser at which 20 of Britain’s most celebrated chefs cook for 200 lucky patrons in aid of leukaemia research. Guests are assigned a table at random to be served by a talented roster that includes the Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze, Tom Kerridge and Ruth Rogers. At the end of the meal guests can then bid for the chefs to cook for them in their own home. £7,000 for a table of ten, 6 March, Four Seasons Park Lane, Hamilton Place, W1J, whoscookingdinner.com

Membership

Howard Evans

(Events & Membership)

Police

Marie-Louise Burrows

Licensing

Derek Stratton

As Chatsworth House prepares to open House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion, Camilla Apcar speaks to Lady Laura Burlington about the exhibitionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cast of characters

Deborah Devonshire and Stella Tennant, Chatsworth, 2006 ÂŠMario Testino

feature from left: Mistress of the Robes Coronation Gown, worn by Duchess Evelyn at 1937 coronation and Duchess Mary at 1953 coronation, Painted Hall, Chatsworth, 2016, photography: Thomas Loof, ©Chatsworth; Lord Charles Cavendish and Adele Astaire on their wedding day, 1932, ©Devonshire Collection, Chatsworth

f the walls of Chatsworth House could tell stories, then the clothes of those who have resided there for more than four centuries would certainly have some good tales. House Style: Five Centuries of Fashion at Chatsworth will be the largest exhibition ever held at the Peak District manor. Opening on 25 March, historical and contemporary clothes will go on show in a survey of the life and times of the aristocratic Devonshire family. It has taken just over six years to put together, curated by Vogue’s international editor-at-large, Hamish Bowles. One of the driving forces behind the project is Lady Laura Burlington, who is married to William Burlington, the son of the current Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. A former contributing editor for Harper’s Bazaar, fashion is in her veins. She also sits on the New Generation board of the British Fashion Council. “I had a very small seed of an idea to invite Hamish to come and look at the collection, quietly in the hope that he might feel there would be an exhibition there,” says Burlington. But she credits the final product to her parents-in-law, Bowles and creative designer Patrick Kinmonth, who was responsible for Vogue 100: A Century of Style at the National Portrait Gallery last year. House Style is not about fashionable fads, but “a way of life”. “It was really difficult to come up with a name,” says Burlington. “For a long time it was Dressing the Devonshires – but then we thought maybe no one would know who the Devonshires were. House Style is more than just dresses.

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“Whenever Hamish finds a dress, he starts looking for a picture of the person who has worn it. That’s very important in this show: it’s a way of telling stories about the family and making people feel closer to the actual characters.” Indeed, some of its cast will be more familiar than others. The exhibition stretches back to the 16th century and the formidable Bess of Hardwick, who persuaded her husband Sir William Cavendish to sell his lands and move to her home county, where they built the first house at Chatsworth. The estate has been home to the Cavendish family and the hereditary dukes ever since. Bess of Hardwick’s Elizabeth I badge – monogrammed ‘E S’ for Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury – will be on display, alongside an account book handwritten by her and her secretary. House Style will then wend its way through the ages – displayed in Chatsworth’s grandest rooms, such as the Painted Hall – right up until the present day. Items belonging to the current Duke and Duchess of Devonshire will include a Givenchy bolero worn by the Duchess on their wedding day.

clockwise from left: Assorted shirts, all Turnbull & Asser, owned by Deborah Devonshire; painted hall; Wool jumpers made by Lords, commissioned by the 11th Duke of Devonshire

“When I first asked [my parents-in-law] to open their wardrobes, there was a sort of deep inhalation of breath,” Burlington describes. “They said ‘oh, we don’t have anything you’d be interested in’… but then it all came out. I hope they’ll be happy with the final result.” Adele Astaire, Fred’s sister and dance partner, married Lord Charles Cavendish in 1932. As Duchess Mary recalled of the family’s first meeting with her son’s fiancé: “All gathered, like stone pillars, in the library… the heavy doors opened and there stood this tiny girl, beautifully dressed. We waited for her to approach us, but instead of walking she suddenly began turning cartwheels. Everyone loved it.” “Their marriage represented a great merging of British aristocracy and Hollywood royalty,” says Pierre Lagrange, chairman of Huntsman. The Savile Row tailor has recreated a pair of riding breeches originally made for the inimitably fashionable Adele, especially for the exhibition. The order was found in the shop’s archives – the dukes were frequent customers – and refashioned using the original model. “Huntsman is known for its menswear, but a lot of elegant women have worn our pieces,” says Lagrange.

feature

“There’s a humorous thread that runs throughout the exhibition, with rubber chicken handbags and the 11th Duke’s slogan jumpers” There will of course be ballgowns, including an example designed by the House of Worth, but House Style will also include a lot of men’s clothes: livery, uniforms, garter robes and boots. Some pieces have been borrowed from museums, but much will be from the Devonshire Collection (pieces belonging to the family, looked after by the House Trust). The Devonshires’ textile store was opened wide, as well as dressingup cupboards and the family’s wardrobes. “There have been some really exciting discoveries – perhaps quite small to other people, but quite significant to us,” says Burlington. “Hamish found a 1953 Dior gown sort of hanging on the back of a door, with the label missing, which none of us had given a second thought.” Other finds have been more emotional. “Stella Tennant had lost her wedding dress, an incredible Helmut Lang, and I don’t think he made too many. It was extraordinary and very conceptual.

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

We were borrowing her mother’s dress – the current Duke’s sister – and tried it on a mannequin. As we were packing it away, at the bottom of that box, we found Stella’s packed in tissue. So there it was, 18 years after she last saw it.” Tennant, the fashion model who was once the face of Chanel with the shortest of black haircuts, is among the exhibition’s most contemporary stars. She is the granddaughter of the 11th Duke and Deborah Mitford – one of the notorious six sisters, who are honoured in their own right. “There’s definitely a humorous thread that runs throughout House Style,” explains Burlington, “with rubber chicken handbags and the 11th Duke’s slogan jumpers. He came up with in-joke designs like ‘Never Marry A Mitford’ or ‘Never Trust A Cadogan’.” Twenty-two will be on display. Burlington’s other favourites include the current Duke’s Mr Fish and Blades suits. “They’re really avant-garde. He must have been very brave and forward-thinking in those days, as he is now, to dress in those clothes.” As with any study of costume, much can be gleaned about life during different eras. “After the war, one of the Duke’s smoking jackets was repaired and repaired. There’s layers upon layers of tweed,” says Burlington. “It was a time when people were much more careful [with their clothes]. It was more ‘make do and mend’.” Surveys of aristocratic fashion, couture and noble living have been undertaken many times before, but this exhibition – set in one of England’s grandest and most treasured houses – will be styled with a thoroughly personal touch. £21.90, entry to exhibition included in Chatsworth House ticket, 25 March – 22 October, chatsworth.org

A stitch in

time As the newly reborn House of Schiaparelli regains its official haute couture status, Kari Colmans explores its 90-year history and looks ahead to a new reign under Bertrand Guyon

“F

ashion is born by small facts, trends, or even politics, never by trying to make little pleats and furbelows, by trinkets, by clothes easy to copy, or by the shortening or lengthening of a skirt.” As an icon celebrated for her wit and sass as much as her dresses, Rome-born fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli’s influence is hard to hyberbolise. The daughter of an aristocrat and a scholar, herself a poet, rebel and adventurist, Schiaparelli established more than just a fashion house. At the height of her career between the two World Wars, she was pioneering the use of new fabrics and silhouettes and inventing colours, contouring and illusions that had never been seen before. Indeed, in 1934, TIME magazine wrote: “Madder and more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word ‘genius’ is applied most often.” Influenced by the French couturier Paul Poiret, who pioneered a freer form in women’s clothing, as well as other pivotal names on the art scene such as her friend and short-lived colleague Man Ray, it was in Paris in 1927 that Schiaparelli created her first hand-knit pullover. With its surrealist trompe-l’œil motif

of a scarf draped around the neckline, Vogue declared it an immediate success, and it was adopted by the celebrities of the day. These iconic and instantly recognisable knitwear collections were soon complemented by beach pyjamas, swimsuits, tweed sportswear ensembles, ski suits and evening dresses, as well as a fragrance named ‘S’, a letter that prefixed the name of every scent to follow. Schiaparelli was a smart, plucky businesswoman as well as an artistic visionary, and two years on from her debut sweater, she anticipated the concept of fashion licences and was granted one in the United States for printing clothing. From the use of visible zips to strongshouldered coats and suits, she had the foresight to file an early patent for a onepiece swimsuit with an integrated bra. The invention of integrated brassieres – called ‘falsies’ – was later extended to evening gowns and day dresses. In 1930, she introduced the first wrap dress in haute couture as well as the first evening jacket – a white number wrapped around the waist of a long black dress that hailed a new trend. Schiaparelli was an early feminist and strived to make everyday clothes more practical for women. “In difficult times, fashion

By 1953 as many as 18 million items bearing the Schiaparelli name were sold

Elsa Schiaparelli, 1 January 1937 ©Time & Life Pictures by Getty Images

FEATURE

THIS PAGE AND NEXT: SCHIAPARELLI S/S17 CATWALK

is always outrageous,” she once said and certainly her ‘divided skirts’ (an early version of culottes) caused a scandal in England when they were first released. Her notoriety clocked up column inches and in 1934 she was the first female fashion designer to land the cover of TIME magazine in which the corresponding article presented her as “one of the arbiters of ultramodern haute couture”. While inventing new fabrics all the time, from crushed rayon crepe to rhodophane, a material as transparent and fragile as glass, perfumes and accessories continued to drive sales. In 1935, the House moved to Hôtel de Fontpertuis, 21 Place Vendôme, where it is still based today. Collaborations with her friend and fellow surrealist Salvador Dalí followed the move, the most memorable of which included a powder compact in the shape of a phone dial and coats and suits with bureau-drawer pockets. In 1937, Dalí painted the Lobster Dress, a white silk evening gown adorned with a large crustacean. The garment was immortalised by Wallis Simpson, who caused a stir when a series of photographs shot by Cecil Beaton appeared to show the lobster crawling between her thighs. Undeterred, Schiaparelli continued to push the new social boundaries by sending short evening dresses down the catwalk for the first time.

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

The real test will be to make the name Schiaparelli

An artist as much as a designer, she had a penchant for themed collections, with names such as Le Cirque, Music and Cash and Carry – the latter of which comprised jumpsuits adorned with large zips and maxi pockets roomy enough to hold the contents of a handbag, as well as stylish yet practical Siren Suits that could be thrown on during air raids. These androgynous all-in-one designs went on to influence her signature, military-inspired jackets.

“In difficult times, fashion is always outrageous” Following a five-year hiatus during World War II, Schiaparelli returned to the drawing board in 1945, releasing a lightweight travel wardrobe that anticipated the emancipation of women and an increased freedom of movement. Further experimental designs continued to play to the new social paradigms brought about by war. The creation of the Forbidden Fruit evening dress for example, flirted with controversy as lingerie appeared to peep out from the asymmetrical strapless silhouette. After earning a ready-to-wear licence in the United States in 1950, Schiaparelli expanded into lingerie and sunglasses, and by 1953 as many as 18 million items bearing the Schiaparelli name were sold. Although looking back it would seem the house closed at the height of its success, in reality it struggled with the austerity of harder times, finally coming to an end in 1954, the same year that the designer’s great adversary Coco Chanel returned.

Elsa Schiaparelli, February 1951 ©Time & Life Pictures by Getty Images

FEATURE

resonate today as it did nearly a century ago

Looking ahead In 2012, six years after being acquired by Italian tycoon Diego Della Valle, the couture house reopened where Schiaparelli had left it. With an ambassador in model and muse Farida Khelfa, the return of the brand made waves throughout the fashion world. That summer the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York opened its Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations exhibition and a unique haute couture collection designed by Christian Lacroix the following year also paid tribute to Elsa.

Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador DalÍ, 1949 ©Archives Snark

Creative director Marco Zanini took the reins for a brief spell (it was said he spent too much time looking backwards and not enough on the future) to work on the first haute couture runway show since 1954 in 2014. Design director Bertrand Guyon, whose CV includes working closely with Hubert de Givenchy, Alexander McQueen and Valentino, is now running the show and last month, the house finally reclaimed its official haute couture status. “Elsa Schiaparelli is an enchanting couture house,” he says. “I have always been fascinated by its exceptional legacy, its luminous and intimate story, its quirky and poetic world, its ultimate chic and its endless creativity. I feel honoured to be part of Schiaparelli today and developing it further, respecting its heritage and tradition while adding a contemporary and modern take, something Elsa Schiaparelli has always demonstrated.” Accordingly the S/S17 haute couture show sought to fuse the past with the present, nodding to the iconic style of the House of Schiaparelli while continuing to pioneer the new. Beautiful designs included appliquéd stars, flowers and disembodied hands as well as a hint of signature shocking pink and the famous lobster motif; a subtle, droll nod to the late, great designer. With all eyes looking closely to every iconic reference, Guyon’s challenge will be the same as for any established fashion house with a heritage as rich and celebrated as Maison Schiaparelli. Indeed, the real test will be to make the name resonate today as it did nearly a century ago. In Schiaparelli’s own words: “One has to sense the trend of history and precede it.” schiaparelli.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

From Harvey Nichols buying his entire first collection to setting up an haute couture label to rival the Parisians, Nicholas Oakwell is one of high fashion’s most exciting entrepreneurs. Hannah Lemon reports

woman walks towards you dressed in flickers of blood red. She’s startlingly beautiful, decorated in embroidered flowers, light organza and plumes of feathers. But there’s an air of the unexpected. Her manner, the glint in her eye, the way the fabric of her dress moves – she’s dangerous. As she steps closer you realise that the flowers aren’t flowers at all. And the material isn’t soft silk. Suddenly the scene is darker, scary, evil. This woman could kill. Welcome to the front row of Nicholas Oakwell Couture S/S17. The designer himself is midway through explaining the collection to me. “How can I describe it?” he pauses, concluding with: “Hitchcock. There we go.” Oakwell’s muses for each collection, he explains, are all in his head – and this one’s a psycho. “She’s going to be quite dangerous, quite a fearful character. She looks beautiful but like she’s going to kill you.” Previously, he’s created Sylvia (high-waisted leather skirts and demure chiffon gowns), Grima (1960s collars and beaded knee-length dresses), and Zulu (graphic raffia capes and crystal chokers on a runway shared with fake elephants). The common theme between them all is Oakwell’s playful embellishment. Feathers, fringes, beads, sequins, pockets, weaves, rouleau… the list goes on. This experimentation with fabric, he says, can be traced back to his childhood. “My mother was a model, so I was surrounded by clothes all the time,” says Oakwell. “She, my grandmother and my great grandmother were always making clothes for me, so I was used to it.” There was no sudden epiphany to become a designer for Oakwell, but simply a natural

“My mother was a model, so I was surrounded by clothes all the time”

INTERVIEW

“We follow haute couture disciplines as much as we possibly can”

progression. As a child he created outfits for his mother, one of the first being a cream silk blouse with a big pussy bow. “That sort of Dynasty era time,” laughs Oakwell. Born in Famagusta, now a deserted ghost town in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, four-year-old Oakwell and his mother moved to Scotland in 1973, one year before the war broke out. As Greek Cypriots, his entire family was displaced after they left. “My whole family had to move out of their homes,” he explains. “They lost everything. People were just in their pyjamas when they got evacuated thinking they would be back in a couple of hours, and they never returned.” Some have since crossed the border only to find a new generation who have been living in their home for the past 40 years. “It’s a mess,” the designer sighs. But Oakwell was one of the lucky ones. After living in Edinburgh for six years, he moved to Surrey, where he later joined Epsom School of Art and Design. While at fashion college, Oakwell specialised in millinery and by the time he graduated, Harvey Nichols had bought his entire collection. “It is a very romantic story but at the time it was a bit ‘Ahhhh!’,” he laughs. “The reality of running a business and delivering to deadlines is a whole different thing.” At the age of 24, Oakwell left the department store to pursue his love for haute couture, which he learned under the Danish-born designer Isabell Kristensen. Under her guidance he mastered the Parisian craft, working with drapers, beaders and skilled workers. Six years later he was back working with Harvey Nichols, but it wasn’t long before his entrepreneurial side kicked in. Oakwell launched

LEFT: NICHOLAS OAKWELL; all other images: NICHOLAS OAKWELL A/W16

No Uniform, a premium uniform design business. Now 16 years on, the company has kitted out staff at Claridge’s, The Connaught, The London Edition Hotel, and most recently the Four Seasons at Ten Trinity Square. As if all this wasn’t enough, back in 2011 he simultaneously set up his eponymous couture brand. “It was just after I got married at 41 years old,” he says. “At that time, I felt ready.” There is considerable snobbery in the fashion industry when it comes to the term ‘haute couture’. To officially bandy it about, a business must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris, which is regulated by the French Ministry of Industry. Is it everyone’s aim to be part of this exclusive club? “We try to follow the disciplines as much as we possibly can,” replies Oakwell. “Yes, we need to look at the traditions and standards, but at the same time we need to be modern, otherwise you become a totally irrelevant business. There’s an argument that you shouldn’t use laser cutting in couture. Of course you should!” Nicholas Oakwell Couture sells itself as a ‘Made in Britain’ brand. The beading, dying, printing and weaving is all done on these shores – a rare fact for many labels nowadays, but something that bigger companies are trying to latch on to. “We have a weaver in Dalston,” says Oakwell. “She does lots of hand weaving. Her fabrics are incredible. I hear that Chanel is hanging around her and I’m like: ‘Go away! Get off Karl! She’s mine! I found her first!’” On the day of a fashion show Oakwell is eerily calm, but he puts it down to the fact his whole team take control: models, hair and makeup, sound, lighting, his stylist Damian Foxe, casting

“I hear that Chanel is hanging around my weaver. Get off Karl!”

INTERVIEW

agents. “Everyone is there doing their jobs. I could tweak a bow or do the hair but it’s all been done. There’s nothing I can do unless I go a bit crazy and start chopping dresses up. Psycho! It could be the next collection.” Even the scent is thought about – each collection has its own personalised perfume. If you miss a show, there is always the boutique next to Claridge’s; a quiet, classy haven of window shopping off the touristy beaten track. “It’s not just a window onto the street – it’s a window into the world,” says Oakwell. “It has brought in so many opportunities through clients walking in and not knowing us. The girls from Vogue have driven passed in a taxi and stopped to take the dress out the window for a shoot, things like that.” When he’s not at his flat in Moorgate, Oakwell heads to his country retreat in Oxfordshire, which he used to share with his husband. But after ten years together, they’ve decided to go their separate ways. “I’m up there every weekend which I love. Friday afternoon – in the car – M40 – gone. The village only has 65 people in it, so it’s tiny. I have a garden surrounded by a stone wall, a meadow and a forest behind it. I do a lot of gardening, digging, planting vegetables – it’s very therapeutic.” As provincial as this life may seem, Oakwell’s passion and drive will never keep him from London and his collections of glamorous gowns. “Follow my dream – that was the main lesson from my mum. What’s the worst that can happen? You fall over? Then you stand up, brush your knees down and off you go again.”

“Follow my dream – that was the main lesson from my mum”

41-59 Brook Street, W1K, nicholasoakwellcouture.com

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Pantone has announced Greenery as the colour of the year and Selfridges is exploring the global impact of clothes. Marianne Dick looks at the brands championing a new era of fashion

he world is going green in 2017, literally. Global authority on colour Pantone announced in December that Greenery – a ‘tangy yellowgreen’ – would be the colour of the coming year. According to Pantone this verdant choice will encourage us to “take a deep breath, oxygenate and reinvigorate”. Pantone’s prediction came at around the same time as Planet Earth II was dominating our screens; the Danish lifestyle concept ‘hygge’ was the word on everyone’s lips and practising ‘wellness’ and ‘mindfulness’ was encouraged as part of one’s daily routine. It was a reaction to a chaotic, tech-obsessed world. Greenery, as a simple shade, has already been noticed more on the catwalks – from Balmain to Boss – but now it’s connotations appear to be influencing the fashion industry’s moral approach too.

Positive Luxury “I think the challenge is to marry long-term thinking with this very fast moving environment,” says Diana Verde Nieto, co-founder and CEO of Positive Luxury. The company (“Fairtrade for luxury but totally interactive,” according to Verde Nieto) aims to inspire people to ‘buy better’ and INSET from top: all clothing Community Clothing by Patrick Grant, from £4.95 to £129; Vyayama Kalablak collection, leggings, £130, vest, £105; Tengri, double-sided knitted tie, £90; Community Clothing by Patrick Grant, as before MAIN IMAGE: Vyayama Kalablak collection, leggings, as before, cropped top, £85, all available at Selfridges, selfridges.com

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measures businesses on their ethical practices: if a brand meets 80 per cent of the criteria it is awarded a Butterfly Mark, which demonstrates transparency to consumers. In turn, Positive Luxury can capture and relay consumers’ concerns to brands. It has a council that reviews and updates the assessment process, and publishes intelligence reports twice a year. The most recent of these shows that, in an uncertain world, brands must be seen as having a stable and positive impact. Positive Luxury is serious about sustainability, Verde Nieto however, has a slight issue with the term. “Sustainability is not a sexy word.” She affirms, “It’s so loaded with this idea of climate change and incomprehensible stuff.

“People want better quality; they want to slow things down. They care about all the little bits that make up what sustainability is” “Fast fashion is absolutely massive – whether it’s luxury or high street – but people want better quality; they want to slow things down. They care about all the little bits that make up what sustainability is.” Retailers appear to be switching on to changes in buying habits, so much so that Verde Nieto aims to expand to the United States and Asia in the next three years. While sustainability may not necessarily be ‘sexy’, it’s certainly becoming more prominent and with the support of Selfridges: fashion forward.

Selfridges: Material World The department store has kicked off the year with a UK-wide campaign called Material World, which celebrates sustainable living through brand launches, pop-ups and events. Eight Selfridges Bright ambassadors (Bright New Things is a platform that focuses on new creative talent) have taken over the window displays of the London store to showcase their innovative use of textiles. Established names are also involved in the celebrations, from author of the bestselling book The Shepherd’s Life, James Rebanks, to The Great British Sewing Bee judge, Patrick Grant.

Community Clothing “Ethical business needs long-term relationships, trust and understanding, and amid the frenzy that is fast fashion that’s never going to happen,” says founder and creative director of Community Clothing, Patrick Grant. These kinds of relationships form the basis of Grant’s Community Clothing enterprise, which is travelling around UK-wide Selfridges stores in a series of two-week pop-ups. As the owner of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons and creative director of E. Tautz, Grant noticed gaps in the production schedules of many British factories as well as a lack of affordable British-made clothes. He seized the opportunity to create a widely beneficial solution to these two problems, by linking them together. “[At E.Tautz and Norton & Sons] we have always been completely transparent about our approach to a product and its manufacturing,” says Grant. “We’ve always been about product that’s made well, in the best UK factories, from the best materials. So much so that we bought one of our key suppliers in Blackburn to keep them in business.” Community Clothing brings Grant’s Savile Row quality and reputation to a mass audience by cutting out the middle man and creating seasonless design classics, from perfect white T-shirts to made-to-last grey jumpers. Three quarters of Community Clothing’s profits are also pledged back into re-skilling projects in the community.

Tengri While Grant is taking care of things at home, Selfridges Bright ambassador Nancy Johnston’s concerns lie further afield. The CEO and founder of ‘yakshmere’ brand, Tengri, was inspired to set up her business during her time spent living with a yak herder family in Mongolia. “Nomadic herder families in Mongolia supply the world’s top fashion brands with luxury fibres, contributing to the €9 billion global cashmere market,” says Johnston. “But many nomadic herder families live on subsistence wages of around £1 per day.” Tengri works directly with cooperatives that represent 4,500 nomadic herder families, ensuring they receive a fair income while establishing herders’ land rights. The benefits of this type of farming don’t stop there.

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Vyayama

mAIN IMAGE: Haze-print vest top, £120, Vyayama INSET FROM BOTTOM: Tengri x Harry Stedman, ‘The Mariner’ quarter-zip sweater, £750; Community Clothing by Patrick Grant, as before; Tengri, Insignia coat, £1,150; Community Clothing by Patrick Grant, as before, all available from Selfridges, selfridges.com

“Tengri specialises in ‘noble yarns’, so named for their superior quality and performance,” says Johnston. “In Mongolia I discovered the amazing properties of yak fibre: it’s as soft as cashmere, warmer than merino wool, hypoallergenic, resistant to water and odours, and is also more resistant to pilling than other luxury fibres.” Compared to non-indigenous cashmere goats that rip out grassroots when they eat (contributing to widespread environmental damage), yaks consume only the top of the grass when they graze, promoting biodiversity. Fibres are then spun in a family-owned mill in Yorkshire. The entirely transparent supply chain produces delicate, undyed sweaters, coats and accessories, and works in collaboration with brands, such as Savoir Beds and Nile & York.

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While yak wool has been at our disposal for centuries, boutique yoga clothing brand and Selfridges Bright member Vyayama has brought an entirely new fabric to the table. “We don’t believe being mindful has to be separate from enjoying fashion. The desire was to design clothing in line with our yogi values that could also become an integral part of our fashion wardrobe,” says design director Anette Cantagallo. “We set out to make natural-based fabrics the norm rather than the alternative and to integrate sustainability into all our business practices. After a lot of research Tencel was our answer.” Tencel is a new type of viscose made from Lyocell fibres that are produced via a closed-loop process (meaning that almost all solvents from the process are recycled) by Austrian company Lenzing. It’s made from wood sourced from sustainably harvested forests that are certified by the Forest Stewardship Council. Tencel doesn’t need the added chemicals synthetic fabrics do to transport moisture from your skin or to stop bacteria growth on garments. The fabric used for the range of black staples for the Vyayama collection is a blend of Tencel and Italian elastane, which Cantagallo describes as “soft and smooth, yet sculpting and supportive”. It is biodegradable, non-toxic, skin PH neutral, naturally breathable and hypoallergenic. “Verbiage and scientific references show the weightiness of the subject, but how do we make responsible fashion sound sexy, fun and appealing?” asks Cantagallo. “It has to be the big brands, with a platform in fashion and a large audience, who lead and take a stand first to help inform people.” Diana Verde Nieto echoes this opinion: “Luxury and sustainability are two sides of the same coin, there is an inherent investment into luxury meaning that you’re never going to throw away a Louis Vuitton bag, and if you do, tell me where!” With Diana Verde Nieto, Patrick Grant and Selfridges on board, perhaps sustainability’s sexy rebranding isn’t as far off as some might think.

“We set out to make naturalbased fabrics the norm rather than the alternative”

selfridges.com

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he term ‘diva’ carries negative connotations, typically applied to women with a heightened sense of importance and capricious nature. However, through its Diva collection, Bulgari sought to redefine this meaning, with a fine jewellery range inspired by women who sported the brand in the 1950s and 1960s, including Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner and Sophia Loren. Evoking these powerful female figures, the jewels exude glamour, sophistication and charisma. The collection has been updated every year since its launch in 2013, but the original design remains. Its Art Deco fan-shaped motif, as pictured in these earrings, was inspired by Taylor’s dramatic make-up in Cleopatra. Diva earrings in white gold and diamonds, POA, bulgari.com

Photography: Turi Løvik Kirknes; Stylist: Gemma Jones; Model: Sheena Liam; Make-up: Katharina Brennan; Hair: Adam Garland Post-production: Alina Kovban

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Fan club 35

What can January’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, one of the watch world’s two major trade shows, tell us about the changing landscape of luxury? W o r d s : R I C H A RD B RO W N

Grande Sonnerie, £1.1m, Greubel Forsey

atch land is in a state of flux. After many of the industry’s power players derided the smartwatch, TAG Heuer has announced that it sold 50,000 of its Connected watches last year, helping increase revenue by ten per cent. Elsewhere, Audemars Piguet announced turnover of almost £720 million in 2016; while Richard Mille has just unveiled another watch that reaches the million-pound mark. And yet, overall, for the past 18 months Swiss watch exports have been in steady decline, with brands forced to buy back £1 billion of unsold stock in the first ten months of last year. So, what can we glean from the wares of the 30 brands that exhibited at the first major watch show of 2017? For some, it was all about consolidation, for others, it was a case of: “Crisis? What crisis?”

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A return to reality Laureato 42mm, £7,400, Girard-Perregaux

In 2015, Switzerland unpegged its currency from a fixed exchange rate with the euro. The Swiss franc soared. Coupled with a downturn in China, as well as across much of Europe (the UK excluded), it meant that annual exports were down 9.9 per cent in 2016. The decline is greater still in the fine watch sector, where timepieces have an export price of CHF6,000 (£4,800) or above. Faced with slumping sales and inventory-heavy markets, manufacturers are sticking to the tried and tested; playing it safe and making more of what they know they can sell. This means line extensions of entry-level pieces and lots and lots of (cheaper) steel.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has announced its new most accessible model

Master Control Date, £4,800, Jaeger-LeCoultre

Tonda 1950, £7,950, Parmigiani Fleurier

Last year, to celebrate its 225th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux reintroduced the Laureato in a limited-edition run. Debuting in 1975, the original Laureato arrived in the decade of the steel sports watch, landing three years after Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and one year before Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. This year, the Laureato becomes a permanent collection, delivered in four sizes: 34mm, 38mm, 42mm and 45mm. In the flesh, the blue-dial versions are most beguiling. Jaeger-LeCoultre has announced its new most accessible model: the Master Control Date features an in-house automatic movement, a date display and a solid gold winding rotor visible through a sapphire crystal case back. High spec for a watch that costs £4,800. Parmigiani Fleurier also lowered its entry-level price point, by presenting the first steel version of the ultra-thin Tonda 1950. It’s now possible to become a Parmigiani punter for £7,950. Elsewhere, Montblanc’s TimeWalker Date Automatic includes a unidirectional black ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal and a smart and sporty perforated black rubber strap. The watch is water resistant to 100m, is subjected to 500 hours of tests during production and beats with an in-house movement. It punches above its weight at £2,565. girard-perregaux.com, jaeger-lecoultre.com, parmigiani.com, montblanc.com

Panerai’s carbon potential Today, horological innovation is as much about materials as it is movements. In the battle to improve the resilience and accuracy of their timepieces, brands have moved away from traditional watchmaking materials – gold, silver and various non-precious metals – and are inventing space-age composites of carbon, ceramic and silicon. Cartier, Ulysse Nardin, Jaeger LeCoultre, and even that paragon of traditionalism, Patek Philippe, have all embraced the anti-magnetic qualities of silicon. No watchmaker, though, has harnessed the potential of carbon like Panerai. Stealing the spotlight at this year’s show, the brand announced that it has created a calibre comprised of “low-maintenance self-lubricating and dry-lubricating materials”. Both the silicon escapement and two mainspring barrels of the Calibre P.3001/C have been finished with a layer of diamond-like carbon, while its bridges and plates are made from a low-friction tantalum-based ceramic. As a result, the movement requires only four jewels, or bearings – alleviating the need for oils and overcoming one the greatest hurdles of accurate timekeeping. Panerai has housed the movement in the brand new LAB-ID, a watch the brand is offering with a previously unheard of 50-year guarantee. On the exterior, the carbon treatment continues. The LAB-ID features a case milled from ‘Carbotech’, a carbon-fibre weave conceived by Panerai in 2015, and a dial consisting of carbon nanotubes, which, by reflecting almost no light, makes for a face that’s impossibly black. Fifty pieces will be produced, each priced at €50,000 (approx. £42,500). panerai.com

LAB-ID, approx. £42,500, Panerai

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Bronze age

1858 Automatic, £2,900, Montblanc

The 47mm PAM 671 features luminous hour markers and a stately blue dial that looks razor-sharp against its bronze case

Thanks to the launch of Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay Bronze, Oris’s Limited Edition Carl Brashear and U-Boat’s Chimera Net, bronze emerged as a bona fide watch trend last year. The theme continued at SIHH. ‘Paneristi’ will reference the green-dialled PAM 382 of 2011 as the precursor to the modern ‘bronze age’. In 2016, the brand follows up with the Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo, or PAM 671 (£11,600). The 47mm timepiece features luminous hour markers and a stately blue dial that looks razor-sharp against its bronze case. In 1998, Montblanc owner Richemont acquired Minerva, a movement maker with a storied past in precision instruments. Minerva now operates as part of Montblanc, a partnership celebrated in the 1858 collection. Named after the year in which Minerva was founded, the range comprises three new bronze timepieces, each a reinterpretation of a 1930s Minerva chronograph. Of the three, the entry-level, time-only 1858 Automatic (£2,900) is the most attractive on the wrist. Its clean, black face is complemented by beige hands and Arabic numerals, identical to the original models. Bronze is used on the bezel and crown. A cognac-colour aged calf-leather strap, and a case engraved with the Minerva manufacture add to the historic aesthetic. panerai.com, montblanc.com

PAM 671, £11,600, Panerai

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Da Vinci Automatic, £31,500, IWC

Women’s watches Looking back on 18 months of slumping sales and forward towards a luxury landscape that appears about as smooth as the Swiss Alps, watch industry execs have been brainstorming ways of creating new revenue streams. The buzzword on their whiteboards ringed with the largest circle and followed by the most exclamation marks is ‘women’. Ladies’ watches got a lot of airtime at SIHH 2017, with presentations by some of the biggest brands anchored around their new – or updated – women’s collections. IWC announced the return of its Da Vinci line, presenting five new models, two of which are specifically for women. Restored with round, rather than barrel-shaped, cases (the Da Vinci range has always been one of IWC’s more

Elsewhere at SIHH…

Panthère collection, from £3,200, Cartier

Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat, from £6,300, Cartier

Drive ‘Extra-Flat’, from £6,300, Cartier Building on the hugely successful launch of the Drive last year, Cartier has borrowed a base-calibre from Piaget to deliver a slimmed-down version of the handsome dress watch. One of the few criticisms that could be levelled at the original timepiece was that it felt a little cumbersome under a shirt sleeve – an issue that’s resolved in the 6.6mm-deep Drive de Cartier ‘Extra-Flat’. cartier.co.uk

Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, POA, Vacheron Constantin Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, POA, Vacheron Constantin

Roger Dubuis X Pirelli Roger Dubuis has partnered with Pirelli to produce two limited editions, each featuring rubber inlays from winning Pirelli tyres. The 88-piece Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton (£61,500) comes with an invitation to a range of local Pirelli events, whereas owners of the eightpiece Excalibur Spider Pirelli

Double Flying Tourbillon (£278,000) get access to a two-day VIP motorsport programme organised by the tyre manufacturer. rogerdubuis.com

Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton, £61,500, Roger Dubuis

In 2015, Vacheron Constantin presented the most complex watch ever created. The Reference 57260 boasted 57 complications. It was also 131.7mm high and 50.55mm thick, meaning that for most, it hardly constituted a piece of wearable tech. Far more practical is the one-of-a-kind Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. It clocks up 23 – mainly astronomical – complications thanks to a calibre containing 514 components and six spring barrels. Remarkably, all this is packaged within a wrist-friendly 45mm case. vacheron-constantin.com

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Royal Oak Frosted White Gold 37mm, from a selection, Audemars Piguet

under-loved lines, and round watches are far easier to sell), the Da Vinci Automatic 36 is offered in four variations, while the Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 comes in three. There was also a pared-back Automatic, which, at 40mm, can be classed as unisex. Cartier, the biggest brand at SIHH by revenue, reintroduced the Panthère, a decadent, squarefaced family from the 1980s. Marketed as a piece of ‘jewellery first, timepiece second’, the extensive quartz range arrives in two sizes, 22mm or 27mm, and a total of 17 styles. Choose between white, yellow or pink gold, as well as steel and a steel-gold hybrid, with or without diamonds. The Panthère de Cartier collection will be available from June. Within Piaget’s new Altiplano collection is the elegant 34mm 60th Anniversary model. It is only

RM 50-03 McLaren F1, £996,500, Richard Mille Weighing less than 40 grams, strap included, Richard Mille’s RM 50-03 is the lightest mechanical chronograph ever created, thanks to a new material that earned its creator the Nobel Prize in physics. Richard Mille took graphene, a substance first isolated in 2004 at the University of Manchester, and introduced a carbon composite to create Graph TPT, a material six times lighter than steel, and 200 times as strong. Each of the 75 pieces produced will come with a 1:5 scale model of the McLaren-Honda Formula 1 car. richardmille.com

available with a pink dial and strap, and houses a manually-wound movement that’s just 2.1mm thick. There’s also the Altiplano 34mm, which is delivered with two dial options: turquoise or opal. The former features an 18-karat white gold case; the opal alternative sits within a pink gold case. Both are set with 72 brilliant-cut diamonds. Audemars Piguet is another manufacture taking women’s watches seriously. Its Royal Oak ladies’ line celebrates its 40th anniversary this year and has been updated with the use of frosted gold, where the precious metal is hammered by a diamond-tipped tool to create tiny indentations that Altiplano 34mm, sparkle. These dazzling, diamond£44,600, Piaget free timepieces come in either 18-karat pink gold or 18-karat white gold, in either 37mm or 33mm cases. audemarspiguet.com, cartier.co.uk, iwc.com, piaget.com

RM 50-03 McLaren F1, £996,500, Richard Mille

Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’, approx. £410,000, A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’, £410,000, A. Lange & Söhne

Grande Sonnerie, £1.1m, Greubel Forsey Even by Greubel Forsey’s own barsetting standards, the Grande Sonnerie it launched this year represents a new level of watchmaking. As both a grande sonnerie and a minute repeater, the watch will chime the hours, quarterhours and minutes of the day, a

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technical feat that only a handful of industry heavyweights can achieve. What makes it even more spectacular is the inclusion of a tourbillon in a case just 16.13mm in height. greubelforsey.com

Grande Sonnerie, £1.1m, Greubel Forsey

Walter Lange resurrected his family’s business after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Sadly, the father of modern-day A. Lange & Söhne passed away aged 92 during this year’s show. Fittingly, for a man of such ambition, his passing coincided with the launch of the Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’, a watch that unites five grand complications within a platinum case: a fusée-and-chain regulating transmission, perpetual calendar, chronograph, split seconds function and tourbillon. Fifty will be produced. alange-soehne.com

About time

Lady Gaga almost stole the show at this year’s Super Bowl – not simply for her live performance at half-time, but for her appearance in Tiffany & Co.’s latest ad campaign, which aired during the game. Although the American jewellery brand has crafted the Vince Lombardi Trophy for the winners since 1967, it had never screened an advert during the National Football League championship before. The campaign appears ahead of the much-anticipated release of the new jewellery collection, Tiffany City HardWear, which will be available from late April. Watch this space. Tiffany & Co., 25 Old Bond Street, W1S, tiffany.co.uk

Jewellery

news

WORDS: OLIVIA SHARPE

Lustrous beauty Mariam and Dania Sawedeg, the founders of jewellery brand Kamushki, recognise the importance of reinvention to stay relevant. Taking the late music icon Prince as inspiration, the pair have reinterpreted their signature fish motif in a collection of diamond and pearl pieces, modelled by DJ and presenter Zara Martin. This edgy range is the first time they have used Japanese freshwater pearls, which are cast in chokers, rings and earrings set in 18-karat gold. Diamonds and Pearls S/S17 collection, from £360, available at Browns, 47 Maddox Street, W1S, brownsfashion.com 42

Coco avant Chanel It’s hard to believe there was life in fashion before Chanel. The legendary French brand’s latest high jewellery collection, unveiled at Paris Couture Week, pays tribute to its founder, Gabrielle Coco Chanel, and the women who inspired and supported her before her fashion house achieved worldwide fame. Its 11 suites feature lace and ribbon patterns – two guiding elements of Coco Chanel’s style – and signature motifs of the house, including camellias and birds. Morganite, pearls, moonstones and Padparadscha sapphires, blended with diamonds, all make an appearance. The Jeanne brooch (pictured) is beautifully set with pink sapphires, grey spinels and white diamonds. Coco Avant Chanel collection, from £1,825, chanel.com

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ROCK STAR: Tiffany & Co. Legendary Style campaign, photography: Hanna Besirevic, images courtesy of: Tiffany & Co. DIAMONDS AND PEARLS: Photography: Andrew Hobbs

Rock star

This year marks Pierre Hardy’s 15th anniversary as creative director of the Hermès fine jewellery division. Fittingly, the concept of time – and space – was his main preoccupation for the brand’s latest collection, HB-IV Continuum. It is the brand’s fourth haute bijouterie collection, comprising three sets with strong, graphic lines, an abundance of colour, gold, diamonds and pearls. Two years in the making, it was well worth the wait. POA, hermes.com

March 23 – 30, 2017 Basel – switzerland

Witness the

DAWN OF TreNDs Baselworld is the single-most important trendsetting

market and witness the start of a new trendsetting cycle

show for the world’s watch and jewellery industry.

for the year.

What makes it unmissable is the fact that only here will you find all the key players representing every sector

Seize the unique opportunity to experience the interplay

of the industry together under one roof. Baselworld is

of passion and precision to create perfection. We

where the most prestigious international brands

invite you to join us at Baselworld, where you will be

unveil their innovations, creations and new collections

awe-struck by the spectacular pavilions, amazed at the

in the presence of world-class buyers and the global

new collections, and be amongst those who are a part of

press, all of whom unite here to take the pulse of the

history in the making!

See you at Baselworld 2017

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With a new collection, a store opening in Hong Kong and online expansions all taking place this year, Annoushka Ducas MBE is still very much ahead of the fine jewellery game, writes Olivia Sharpe

ccording to the Economist Intelligence Unit, the luxury goods market in Asia, particularly China, is set to grow significantly, accounting for 50 to 60 per cent of luxury revenue within the next few years. This stems from the ongoing rise of the global middle classes – increasing to 3.2 billion by 2020, according to Mario Pezzini, the director of the OECD Development Centre (leading experts in analysis of global economic and social development policies) – and the fact that the bulk of this growth is predicted to come from Asia (again, largely China). Good news, then, for the likes of Annoushka Ducas MBE, who has just opened her first store in Asia for her eponymous luxury jewellery label, located in the five-star Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong. “We see a huge amount of Asian clients coming through our various concessions in London, whether it’s Harrods, Harvey Nichols or our own standalone stores,” she comments. The Hong Kong store, which opened at the end of January, is modelled after

the existing two boutiques in London (the studio boutique is situated in Chelsea’s Cadogan Gardens, while the flagship is on Mayfair’s South Molton Street). The Art Deco-inspired design features fluted gold ceilings, brasstrimmed mirrors and a glittering crystal chandelier as the centrepiece. While she believes there is little difference in her Eastern and Western clients in terms of tastes, Ducas stresses the difference in sizing as Asian women tend to have smaller hands. With her first jewellery company, Links of London (which she sold in

COLLECTION

Annoushka Ducas MBE

2006 for roughly £50m), and her second Annoushka, founded in 2009, Ducas has been a pioneer in the fine jewellery industry, offering wearable and affordable luxury. However, the jeweller’s reasons for launching a store in Asia aren’t purely commercial; Ducas lived there for three years and it was where she first realised her passion for jewellery design. Her mother had been running a successful fish company and one day rang up her daughter to ask what she could gift her chefs. It was then that Ducas, who at the time was working for an estate agent, commissioned a local silversmith to make cufflinks shaped as fish. Ducas approached Harvey Nichols with the idea of creating a line and the store was immediately hooked, buying the collection under the condition that Ducas would design additional pieces, to which she agreed. However, her mother’s sudden death in 1989 left Ducas juggling businesses, and her then boyfriend (now husband), John Ayton, encouraged her to get a loan from the bank in order to set up her own jewellery company. Links of London launched in 1990 and the rest, as they say, is history. Like Links, Annoushka has been extremely successful, with two stores, 11 concessions and a reported annual turnover of £10 million. Does Ducas see more stores on the horizon? “No, I don’t think so,” she answers. “It’s nice to have a stronghold in Asia, but living now in a world of digital it’s no longer necessary to have stores across the globe.” The global jewellery market is capitalising on the benefits of reaching a larger audience through e-commerce. A report by McKinsey & Co. predicts that the luxury jewellery market’s online sales will double from six to 12 per cent by 2020 and that 18 per cent of luxury sales will be made online by 2025. Annoushka appears to have made the transition seamlessly, with digital and online sales growing 50 per cent last year and projected to hit £1million in the next year. Ducas has always had her fingers firmly on the fashion pulse when it comes to her contemporary jewellery pieces. “I’ve always thought it strange when designers treat jewellery differently to clothes,” she says. “Clothes can go with anything; you can wear colours with other colours. There are no strict rules in fashion, and I think jewellery

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“It’s more about an attitude, a way we approach our lives, rather than a trend” is becoming like that.” Ducas mixes metals and creates pieces to be worn in unconventional ways. This forward-thinking approach can be seen in her latest collection of rings, Crown. The jeweller has evolved the stacking ring trend, creating five new designs inspired by the shape of a crown. They come in five different variations – ranging from white gold with white diamonds to rose gold with brown diamonds, and yellow gold with white diamonds – which can can be arranged in whatever way the wearer sees fit. “I’m interested in the attitude of people and how they wear things,” she comments. “Things have become more casual, whether it’s because we bang off a quick email or a quick text, as opposed to writing a letter or picking up a phone. Our lives have changed, and so has the way we behave, and that has filtered down to fashion and jewellery. It’s more about an attitude, a way we approach our lives, rather than a trend.” Crown collection, from £2,500, Annoushka Studio Boutique, 1 South Molton Street, W1K, annoushka.com

Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exclusive jet-set lifestyle event

11TH - 13TH MAY 2017 LONDON BIGGIN HILL AIRPORT

Tickets are limited. Book your place at www.theelitelondon.com

Ron Falloon, valentino coat, MID-1960S

art

he name of the late Ron Falloon, who passed away in January, might not be a household one, yet his photography is instantly recognisable â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and on view at Shepherd Market in March, as well as on our cover this month. A young Falloon was offered a job as an assistant to David Bailey and Terence Donovan, but just as the sixties began to swing, he opened his own studio on Drury Lane. He worked on assignments for Biba, Dior and Mary Quant, and shot Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Cilla Black and The Monkees. Falloon is survived by his partner Colin Corbett and their three cats. 20-25 March, 54 Shepherd Market, W1, and on view at zebraonegallery.com

A luminary lens s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Forgione Director of The British Antique Dealers’ Association How will BADA 2017 compare to the fair in previous years? To celebrate our 25th anniversary we’ve taken a fresh approach. There will be a Quintessentially concierge service throughout the fair, and an event for interior designers and design industry experts in partnership with the British Institute of Interior Design.

Art news words: camilla apcar

A close knit relationship Fashion exhibitions have been some of the most popular in the past decade: the Victoria and Albert Museum has led the way with The Golden Age of Couture; The Glamour of Italian Fashion; and stylish pepperings in blockbusters such as David Bowie is. Heading north to The Hepworth Wakefield, March will see a new collaboration with Jonathan Anderson: an exhibition of the British designer’s responses to the museum’s own modern British art collection. Disobedient Bodies: J.W.Anderson at The Hepworth Wakefield will start on a high with Henry Moore’s Reclining Figure set in front of a series of black and white photographs of models encased in knitwear – turning the live human form into something strangely sculptural. Elsewhere, Louise Bourgeois, Alberto Giacometti and Constantin Brancusi’s work will collide with pieces by Issey Miyake, Yves Saint Laurent and Jean Paul Gaultier. Avant-garde? Undoubtedly. 18 March – 18 June, hepworthwakefield.org

What can visitors expect to discover at the fair? It will bring together contemporary and modern objects with the antique, and visitors will find a mix of styles and periods in carefully considered presentations from over 100 of UK’s leading experts in fine art, design and antiques, individually selected for their expertise, integrity and exceptional stock. Have you seen a shift in collectors’ interests in the past few years? Seventeenth-century European furniture is very much in vogue, due to the popularity of the BBC’s historical drama Versailles, in much the same way that Downton Abbey triggered demand for Edwardian pieces.

Figures and forms Borrowing from Pre-Raphaelites as much as the pre-war School of Paris, there’s more than meets the eye at Chinese painter Wen Wu’s exhibition of ‘literary’ paintings at Riflemaker. Each human figure is in the shape of a Chinese syllable, imbued with a hazy mysticism that makes her work challenging on more levels than one. 6 March – 7 April, riflemaker.org

15-21 March, badafair.com

clockwise from top: The Thinleys, 2015 ©Jamie Hawkesworth; Isaac Nickals, George II japanned quarter-striking moonphase longcase clock, England, C.1735, 113 cm, Courtesy Howard Walwyn Limited; Bronze of Fujiwara no Yasumasa the famous musician playing the flute, Japan Meiji Era (1868-1912), bronze, 16x30x12cm, Courtesy BADA 2017 ©Laura Bordignon; Wen Wu, Rapunzel, 2016, oil on canvas, 25 x 35cm

Marco

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Prize lots SOLD: £353,000 e s t im a t e : £ 1 5 0 , 0 0 0 - £ 2 0 0 , 0 0 0

Anyanwu, Benedict Chukwukadibia Enwonwu MBE, 1956 SOLD: £5,500 E s t im a t e : £ 7 5 0 - £ 9 5 0

Panthère de Cartier bracelet, Cartier “This was a wonderful lot, entered to the sale with an attractive price. We see consistently good results for designer pieces across our three monthly jewellery auctions. This is due in large part to brand recognition and the sheer quality of workmanship that goes into producing the pieces. Designers such as Cartier are renowned globally as being exceptional jewellers, and that is no different in the secondary market.” – Stephen Whittaker, managing director at Fellows

UPCOMING

Bauerngarten (Blumengarten), Gustav Klimt, 1907 A garden near Litzlberg on the shore of Lake Attersee – where Gustav Klimt would retreat most summers with his friends, family and lifelong companion Emilie Flöge – served as the inspiration for this vibrant canvas. He painted its wild blooms during his golden period in 1907: the same year as his shimmering portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer. Bauerngarten was displayed the following year at the seminal Kunstschau in Vienna, an art show organised by Klimt and his artist associates that coincided with the diamond anniversary of Emperor Francis Joseph I’s reign. Two years later the piece was snapped up by the National Gallery in Prague, where it remained until 1968. It was the central work in Painting the Royal Garden at the Royal Academy of Arts last year, and this sale will be its first in more than two decades. Estimate in excess of £35,000,000, Impressionist & Modern Art Evening Sale, 1 March, sothebys.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

“Ben Enwonwu was the first important Nigerian artist to reflect the sculptural traditions of his people in his work, as is clearly and spectacularly evident in Anyanwu. For the artist, the statue was a visual manifestation of the new Nigeria, culturally confident and proud of its heritage. I’m not surprised that it has commanded such a high price at auction.” – Giles Peppiatt, director of African Art at Bonhams

UPCOMING

sold, from left: Cartier, Panthère de Cartier bracelet, the seated panther with black enamel spots, tsavorite garnet eye and brilliant-cut diamond collar, gripping the brilliant-cut diamond hoop and line terminal polished link bracelet, signed and numbered Cartier, 60231C, estimated total diamond weight 0.25ct, length 16cm, weight 20.6gm. Antique & Modern Jewellery, 9 February 2017, Augusta House, fellows.co.uk, image courtesy of Fellows Benedict Chukwukadibia Enwonwu MBE, Anyanwu, 1956, 236 x 71 x 45cm. Africa Now at Bonhams New Bond Street, 15 February 2017, bonhams.com, image courtesy of Bonhams

upcoming, from left: Gustav Klimt, Bauerngarten (Blumengarten), 1907, signed Gustav Klimt (lower right), oil on canvas, 110 x 110cm, image courtesy of Sotheby’s Michelangelo Pistoletto, Particolare della deposizione, 1974, silkscreen on polished stainless steel, 125.3 x 125.3cm, image courtesy of Phillips

Particolare della deposizione, Michelangelo Pistoletto, 1974 Pistoletto was a leading artist of the Italian Arte Povera movement in the 1960s and 1970s. Despite translating as ‘poor art’, it actually experimented with materials beyond the norm of traditional practices, for example using soil, biro pens and twigs (rather than relating to any lack of financial funds). Pistoletto used stainless steel to create a series by printing photographs onto mirrored surfaces, placing the viewer and their own surroundings within the compositions. This modern biblical recreation – showing Christ’s descent from the cross following the crucifixion – is widely regarded as having been created at the peak of Pistoletto’s mirror series. Estimate £500,000-£700,000, 20th Century & Contemporary Art Evening Sale, 8 March, phillips.com 49

Facing forward Contemporary portrait artists are capturing the human face on canvas in increasingly unusual ways – making a commission all the more daring. Camilla Apcar reports

n many a mind’s eye, portraiture is about a stiff, posed figure gazing out into the middle distance. Elevated during the 17th and 18th centuries by noble court painters like Anthony van Dyck, portraiture was later considered a tradesman’s occupation, commissioned by courtiers and businessmen as a status symbol. Yet it was not until the 19th century that more experimental attitudes truly found their way onto the canvas. Reaching the work of contemporary portrait artists requires fast-forwarding past Joshua Reynolds, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Vincent van Gogh, John Singer Sargent, Gustav Klimt and Pablo Picasso. Some of these celebrated painters inspire today’s talents – whose increasingly

unusual methods are calling for assumptions about portraiture to be reconsidered. “As a medium, portraiture is much more respected now than it has been since the time of Charles II or van Dyck,” says Ralph Taylor, Bonhams’ director of post-war and contemporary art. Not all artists work to commission, and with varying degrees of involvement from the sitter. “Something that’s interesting is the intent with which a portrait is painted,” says Taylor. “It might be a loving rendition as part of a commission, a deferential painting of someone famous, or a slightly provocative and mischievous examination of someone’s personality.” Falling under the first category, British artist Kelvin Okafor’s photorealistic pencil drawings are astonishingly true to life (pictured above). Since the age of eight “what interested me was how in one single shade of lead, I was able to create texture and the illusion of colour,” he says. “I’ve always been fascinated with the human mind and with people’s stories.” Okafor’s hyper-real

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portraits take about 120 hours each, so he works mostly from photographs. “If I put pencil to paper, it’s important for me to get to know the person… it’s not just making a replica of a photograph or the person sitting in front of me,” says the artist, who is represented by Albemarle Gallery. “Because I work on a very detailed level, I look at the flaring of the nostrils or the slight glimmer across the mouth – all those little things tell a deeper story about that person.” Accurate in its own way, Graham Fink’s methods are entirely 21st-century. Two years ago, the chief creative officer of Ogilvy & Mather China co-designed a piece of software that allows him to draw in a continuous line using just his eyes. A pair of infra-red lights reflect in Fink’s retina, track the movement and convert it into lines of varying thickness. He tends to use black, grey or dark blue. “Over the years that I’ve painted, drawn and photographed [the human face], the one thing that always bothered me was that my arm and

clockwise from top left: Kelvin Okafor, Nawell’s Interlude II, 2016, graphite, charcoal and black coloured pencil on archival paper, 76 x 57cm; seung-hwan oh, Impermanence_ Untitled_DavidHyun, 2013, Pigment print, 150 x 150cm; Seung-Hwan Oh, Impermanence_ Untitled_Kyu, 2014, Pigment print on photographic paper, 150 x 150cm, courtesy of Gallery Elena Shchukina and the artist; mike dargas, ride the lightning, 2016, oil on canvas, 180 x 130cm

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hand seemed to get in the way of capturing what I was seeing,” he describes. An exhibition of his work is on view until 2 March at Riflemaker. Just as Leonardo da Vinci once sketched the human body, Korean artist Seung-Hwan Oh’s technique is inspired by the scientific. He wanted to realise entropy theory – the second law of thermodynamics – as a photographic concept (pictured above). Later, he says, “what became more important was to evoke an existential pathos in the viewer”. Using colour reversal film, he distorts images by putting homegrown bacteria on the emulsion side

from left: paul wright, The dealer, 2014, oil on canvas, 120cm x 100cm; nick gentry, autumn, 2015, Film negatives, microfilm, acrylic paint and plywood in LED lightbox, 150cm x 150cm; david kim whittaker, Self portrait Four, Jewel Box (The Broads, Thundery Showers, A young Girl in Reflection...), 2011, oil and acrylic on canvas, 160 x 160cm; Federico URIBE, Listener, Mixed media with colour pencils and felt tip pens, 183 x 122cm

of the developed film. “It involves some experimentation in controlling the humidity and temperature to increase the chances of producing the desired effect,” he explains. “Once the film is put in the incubator with microbes, it is out of my control.” Seung-Hwan Oh waits patiently, checking on the photographs every fortnight: “the most difficult and frustrating part is that the possibility of a satisfactory image is 0.2 per cent.” The process can take six months – or even years. For this reason he does not work to commission, but would like to “of course, if it’s interesting and something I can do with reasonable condition”. Commissioning one’s own portrait involves placing trust – and power – in the artist’s interpretation. Paul Wright’s daring and explosive canvases are less about faithful accuracy than a sense of drama (pictured below). “Part of it is being brave enough to allow an artist to take your face and interpret what they see,” he says. The British painter also works mostly from photographs. “I think there used to be a tradition of the portrait painter drawing out the essence of the personality. I actually don’t believe that’s

possible,” he says. This detatched approach permits him to “make them slightly more obscure and unusual”. Both Wright and Seung-Hwan Oh are represented by Gallery Elena Shchukina. The intensely personal nature of portraiture renders it something of an anomaly at auction, however. “You’ve always got this strange glass ceiling on the potential value of portraits,” says Taylor. Case in point is Andy Warhol: “his self-portraits, and the ones of Dolly Parton or even Barbie are worth huge amounts. But those of his unknown patrons are worth a fraction”. “If you’re commissioning a portrait, the audience is very subjective – it’s probably just you. The value is built on a collaboration between the

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sitter and the artist,” says Taylor. Yet it is a different story when it comes to anonymous figures, he continues. “The human body and face are the most universal of all subjects, relevant across all linguistic and cultural boundaries.” Indeed, Cornish talent David Kim Whittaker takes oil to canvas to create beautiful and intense cutaways of the human mind, blurring utopia and dystopia in a psychological haze (pictured below). His portraits are at Opera Gallery, alongside photorealistic painter Mike Dargas, who also uses oils to blend empirical truth and the avant-garde. “I hope my art builds a bridge between traditional

“The human body and face are the most universal of all subjects, relevant across all linguistic and cultural boundaries” and recent portrait painting,” he says. “I have always been inspired by the Old Masters. The perfection of Dalí’s Surrealism and Caravaggio’s Realism have fascinated me since childhood.” Each of Dargas’ series reflects his own state of mind – from his dark early paintings to a honey series that focussed on femininity, beauty and

fragility (pictured previous page). “The [honey] imitates the various masks we use in our everyday life to hide and protect ourselves.” His current series, Transformation, questions humanity’s search for identity. “It explores the process of change – a fundamental and inevitable circumstance of life,” he describes. Opera Gallery represents two other artists whose portraits focus on medium rather than subject matter. Colombian-born mixed media artist Federico Uribe creates faces from everyday objects, and those made from electric cables are particularly striking. From a distance they appear woven, but up close they resemble something like three-dimensional Pointillism. Meanwhile, London artist Nick Gentry uses recycled objects and ‘retro’ technology such as 35mm film negatives, VHS cassettes and floppy discs to form skilfully layered shapes (pictured top left). An exhibition of paintings by Spanish painter Secundino Hernández will be held at Victoria Miro from 1 April to 6 May. His work is at times abstract or linear; elsewhere featuring overlaid shapes in wild colourful forms. The exhibition will include a number of ‘invented portraits’ that combine various techniques – from washing to chiaroscuro. Sometimes, one must look to the past to look to the future. albemarlegallery.com, galleryelenashchukina.com, operagallery.com, riflemaker.org, victoria-miro.com

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fashion

Single-breasted checked suit, £745, Polo shirt with contrasting collar, £195, Paul Smith S/S17 collection

ow that winter is almost behind us, it’s time to start planning summer escapades – and we can’t think of anyone better to kit us out for adventure than Paul Smith. For his S/S17 collection, Smith reflects on the sunny days of his youth when he used to travel to London from his home town of Nottingham. “It was an amazingly energetic time to be in West London – there was bright colour everywhere you looked and all these influences from all over the world,” he says. Signature stripes have been updated in Caribbean-inspired colour combinations, a tropical tartan has been introduced and the brand’s characteristic 1960s tailoring given a new lease of life with an exuberant citrus palette. Let the good times rock and roll. 9 Albemarle Street, W1S, paulsmith.co.uk

Festival

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Milano: Galleria V. Emanuele

ITALIAN TRAVEL BAGS SINCE 1952

Available at Harrods, Selfridges, John Lewis and caseluggage.com

fashion

Style

Alithia

Spuri-Zampetti

update

WORDS: Marianne Dick

Paule Ka’s creative director moved to the fashion house from Lanvin in 2015. For S/S17, Alithia Spuri-Zampetti has collaborated with Miles Aldridge – recognised for his saturated film noir-inspired photography – to create a technicolour wonderland.

Colour clash It’s a match made in creative heaven: Paula Cademartori’s expressive patterns and patchwork prints meet the signature plastic of Italian design company Kartell in a truly one-off range of fantastical bags and sliders. Cademartori, who is of Italian-Brazilian origin, looked to the tropical flora and fauna of Rio de Janeiro’s Botanical Garden for ideas – the results of which are certain to firmly shake off any lingering winter blues. From £183, kartell.com

What was the inspiration behind your latest collection? In the 1980s, Serge Cajfinger – the founder of the house – was going to Japan regularly and doing shows in gardens. This was my starting point for the collection. My first visit to Japan was in Tokyo: it’s massive and built-up and you get a bit lost in the culture, but everything is amazingly pure and clean. Afterwards I went to Kyoto and some islands, and that’s where I found a part of Japan that was a lot softer and emotional. I relived my journey through structured minimalism and wrapping, then I slowly worked on Kimono-inspired pieces.

The joys of spring To celebrate the recent opening of Red Valentino’s boutique in Hong Kong, the fashion house has enlisted the Swedish-born, London-based artist and illustrator Monika Forsberg to design works of art for a capsule collection of dresses, T-shirts and knitwear. Forsberg’s heart-shaped motifs are embellished with cheerful depictions of birds and flowers – just what we need to ease us into our spring wardrobe. From £260, redvalentino.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

How would you describe the Paule Ka customer? Evolving. There are a lot of lawyers. They want to look good but not boring, but they can’t go into the office with pink frou-frou everywhere. Not many houses make good, feminine clothes for the daytime – but Paule Ka is really strong at that. 19 Mount Street, W1K, pauleka.com

The art of craft Tod’s has celebrated expert craftsmanship since it was founded – and its limited edition collaboration with London’s most sought-after tattoo artist is no exception

raftsmanship and heritage are bywords of 21st-century luxury, and to be Made in Italy has cemented confidence in quality for decades. In the Venn diagram of leather goods makers, Tod’s sits right at the centre. Tod’s is perhaps best known by a mere glance of the sole for its leather-lined driving shoe with 133 rubber pebbles underfoot. Diego Della Valle, the brand’s owner and CEO, came up with the Gommino concept in the late 1970s, inspired by his travels to the United States. The entirely handmade production process uses 180 steps and 35 pieces of leather. The epitome of smart-casual style, Tod’s popularity has given rise to versions in all manner of leathers and finishes; the women’s style is just as sought-after as the original men’s. In this year’s spring/summer collection, the patent Double T Gommino serves a classic with a twist; a bronze version offers ultra-modern luxe; and in signature vacchetta, is all elegant simplicity. As the grandson of a cobbler who began a shoemaking business almost a century ago – whose workbench and tools are still displayed at

the entrance to the Tod’s factory in Italy – Della Valle has shoes and leatherwork in his genes. Growing up, his father would take him on business trips to New York (where he supplied Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue), and in 1975 Della Valle took matters into his own hands by launching the understated luxury brand as it is known today. It is based in Le Marche, an Italian region rich in shoemaking expertise and more than 600 leather factories. Tod’s now produces full collections for both men and women – bags, shoes, small leather goods and ready-to-wear – and is still owned by the family that founded it.

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clockwise from left: Diego Della Valle at Tod’s factory; the making of the Gommino; the iconic Gommino; Hunjan holding one of the six unique Double T messenger bags; the double t gommino; the hand-tattooed Double T messenger bag

This family affair has allowed decades of tradition and expert craftsmanship to continually marry with innovation. Despite its 16,000sq m factory having become the largest production centre for luxury footwear in Italy, all work is completed by hand or by hand-operated machines. Tod’s five UK boutiques include spaces within Harrods and Selfridges. Last year the brand doubled the size of its London flagship on Old Bond Street, upping the ante to 6,000sq ft over three floors – complete with a vachetta leatherwrapped steel atrium. The expansion has been celebrated with a collaboration between the brand and London-born tattoo artist Saira Hunjan, in the form of six unique

hand-tattooed Double T messenger bags (with Tod’s hallmark Double T logo of two interlocking metal T shapes as the clasp). Hunjan has a waiting list of about two years for a traditional skin-and-ink tattoo. Fortunately, an expanded special limited edition collection of tattoo-inspired Double T messenger bags in white, pale grey and vachetta; matching Gommini; and a leather jacket with Hunjan’s intricate designs are now available in select flagship boutiques across the globe. As ever, the values Tod’s places in art, creativity and craftsmanship shine through. 2-5 Old Bond Street, W1, tods.com

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Young Turkish fashion talents are finding fresh appetite for their craftsmanship and designs in London. Elisa Anniss seeks a taste of the east in the west

new generation of Turkish designers and labels are starting to make waves, the like of which hasn’t been seen since Rifat Ozbek was named British designer of the year back in the 1980s. In February, Dilara Findikoglu, a Turkishborn Central Saint Martins graduate hosted a catwalk show in London. Dora Teymur, who attended Cordwainers, made his debut at London Fashion Week. What’s more, Turkish fashion designers based in Istanbul – whose highly distinctive, luxurious bags, dresses and shoes are now available in London – are just as sought-after as any gem uncovered in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. No wonder then that Turkey’s rich heritage of elaborate embroidery techniques, skilled craftspeople, tailoring expertise and role as a producer of fabrics is now being discussed beyond the confines of the fashion business. An unassuming building on Brook Street might seem like an unlikely place to uncover Turkey’s sartorial credentials, but it’s quite the opposite. Since last March, the Claridge’s-owned building at

clOCkwise from left: safiyaa dress, £1,695; safiyaa bolero, jumpsuit and belt, from £595 each; Manu Atelier Mini Pristine Shoulder Bag, £330; manu atelier standard pristine tote, £455; manu atelier micro pristine tote, £285; sanayi 313 slippers, £855; sanayi 313 slippers, £936; bora aksu dress, £2,800; bora aksu shirt, £390, and skirt, £955

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number 43, which also houses private banks and art galleries, has been home to the showroom of womenswear label Safiyaa, the brainchild of German-born Daniela Karnuts. “I’m very open and tell people all the time that our garments are made in Istanbul, although I do think my set-up is very unusual in Turkey,” she says. Karnuts is referring to her Istanbul-based atelier located in the Levent district of the city where she employs 25 “amazing craftspeople”, including patternmakers, embroiderers, cutters and tailors aged from 45 to 80 years old. Aside from her designs, which include evening dresses that have frequently graced the red carpet on A-listers including Gwyneth Paltrow and Padma Lakshmi, it is her atelier that has helped make her “demi-couture” business so unique. Here in Brook Street, the room is lined with a series of floor-sweeping gowns, many with embellished shoulders and décolletage. Since opening as appointmentonly (Safiyaa also sells off-the-peg in Harvey Nichols), word has spread through personal recommendation. The ability to

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personalise fit and colour, with the promise they will be delivered swiftly within two weeks, is all achievable thanks to the Istanbul atelier. Bora Aksu moved to London more than 20 years ago to study at Central Saint Martins. Although a fixture on the London Fashion Week calendar since 2003, he typically heads to Turkey to source and manufacture traditional handcrafted laces, needlework and crochets. “In Turkey, every household will have someone with amazing handcraft skills,” the designer says. “It could be crochet, needlework, knitting or

“Turkey has always been an inspirational source for creative people” weaving, but these skills never disappoint. I always take these craft elements and turn them into something different.” He continues. “Turkey has the most amazing layers of different cultural and historical backgrounds. It’s always been an inspirational source for creative people. In recent years, the fashion scene has grown vastly; there is a growing number of fashion designers, and Istanbul Fashion Week is finally finding its balance.” Dorateymur and Manu Atelier are both emerging fashion labels available at Browns. Dora Teymur grew up between Istanbul and Gaziantep in south east Turkey. His collection launched in 2012, when he was studying at the London College of Fashion. Browns was his first stockist.

Turkey’s rich heritage of embroidery, craftsmanship and tailoring

His shoes are easily identifiable thanks to the patent uppers and shiny metal hardware on the loafers and mules. “It’s so rare these days to come across a collection that has a unique point of view, while maintaining both an excellent price point and a high quality,” says Ida Petersson, accessories buying manager for womenswear at Browns. “Dora Teymur succeeded on all three counts. Our customers can’t seem to get enough of his loafers or his Sybil Leek ankle boots.” “Manu Atelier is another stand-out brand,” she continues. “Although it has a contemporary price point, it falls under this new category of bags that aren’t defined as designer or contemporary. I’m obsessed with their suede hobo backpack hybrid.” With a studio located on Istanbul’s Istiklal Avenue, Manu Atelier was founded by sisters Beste and Merve Manastir. Although neither studied design, the pair credit their father, a leather craftsman, as their teacher. “There has always been something about the smell of leather that has captivated us,” say the sisters. The Pristine was their first signature bag, using one of their father’s designs as its blueprint, in much the same way as they’ve turned the mini backpacks and waist bags they were given as children into modern, miniature handbags. Over the last couple of seasons, Sanayi 313, which specialises in mules and other shoe silhouettes with a rich Byzantine aesthetic, has become the shoe brand to covet. “We loved the artisanal feel of the collection, executed in a very luxurious way,” explains Cassie Smart, footwear and bags buying manager at Matchesfashion.com, the first international retailer to buy Sanayi 313. “We felt it was a time when customers were really engaging with unusual pieces and understanding the provenance of more artisanal techniques. We work very closely with the brand on special exclusive styles, as the collection itself is vast.”

Sanayi 313 is a spin-off of the Istanbul multidiscipline lifestyle store launched in 2015 by brothers Amir and Enis Karavil. They turned to long-time friend Serena Uziyel, a Parsons School of Design graduate who honed her shoemaking talent in Florence and Milan, to create this shoe and bag collection. Uziyel says she begins experimenting with materials and techniques more than with drawings. The result is a highly desirable collection of mostly handcrafted mules, festooned in tassels or with eye-catching embroidery and tasteful, crafty embellishment. “You can see lots of delicate metallic weaving and textures on the kaftans of the Ottoman Empire. We gave this traditional craftsmanship a modern twist,” explains Uziyel, whose

THIS PAGE, clockwise from left: bora aksu dresses, £2,057 and £1,862; gul hurgel jumpsuit and dress, both £643 from matchesfashion. com; Dorateymur Dorateymur Harput Loafers, £375 opposite, from top: saafiya cape and jumpsuit, both £895; cape, bustier and trousers, from £450 each

fashion

is being

discussed beyond the fashion business

experience includes working with Devi Kroell and on projects for Judith Leiber and Escada. “In Turkey, this tradition of weaving is starting to disappear,” she says. Sanayi 313 revives elements of these traditional techniques in its artisanal workshops. Matchesfashion.com was also quick to snap up demure dress label Gül Hürgel. “Her ruffle, off-the-shoulder floral

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

embroidered dress really tapped into the trend of last summer in a feminine way,” notes buying director Natalie Kingham. Whether it’s for flounce cuffs or her off-theshoulder Blue Belle, dresses typically use up to five metres of fabric. Most have nipped in waists, wide skirts and a nostalgic air that the designer says channels “Lee Radziwill with her sister Jackie Kennedy in Capri”. Indeed, there’s always a maverick in every fashion movement. From celebrating heroic women to splicing vintage heavy metal T-shirts together and re-working them, Dilara Findikoglu is finding fame for her beautifully-executed but somewhat rebellious pieces. “Dilara is one of the new designers I’m most excited about,” says Selfridges’ buyer Ruth Hickman. “More than a designer, she’s an artist, able to bring together the unexpected and the commercial. I would describe her technical approach as demi-couture, but she teams this level of craftsmanship with a savvy understanding of the current market.” In the weeks leading up to Findikoglu’s second London Fashion Week show, this designer – who is championed by Lady Gaga – was busy with her team working on beautiful corsets, dresses and carefully tailored embellished suits in her Islington studio. The answer to why Turkish designers are enjoying their day in the sun is, to Findikoglu, patently obvious. “When minimalism was the trend, no designers came out of Turkey, because the aesthetic isn’t a Turkish one,” the creative says. Indeed, as fashion tastes have evolved (now shifting towards embellishment and detailed creations), so elaborate artisanal mules, summery linen dresses or rock star-worthy pieces are antidotes to fashion’s extravagant, more individualistic aesthetic. boraaksu.com, dorateymur.com, gulhurgel.com, manuatelier.com, safiyaa.com, sanayi313.com

FROM LEFT: Nell: Jacket, £840, Trousers, £580, Paul Smith, paulsmith.co.uk; bodysuit with collar, £270, Body Editions, bodyeditions.com; boots, £399, JF London, jflondon.net; Remy: THREE-piece Suit, POa, Dsquared2, dsquared2.com; Shirt, £620, Berluti, berluti.com; shoes, £945, Christian Louboutin, christianlouboutin.com; Coco: Blazer, £675, trousers, £395, DAKS, daks.com; blouse, £685, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, preenbythorntonbregazzi.com; Heels, £660, Salvatore Ferragamo, ferragamo.com; Farhiya: jacket, £1,165, trousers, £560, Vionnet, vionnet.com; shirt, £845, Valentino, valentino.com; mules, £565, Giuseppe Zanotti, giuseppezanottidesign.com; James: jacket, £1,495, trousers, £395, Gieves & Hawkes, gievesandhawkes.com; waistcoat, POa, Caruso, mrporter.com; rollneck, £159, DAKS, as before; shoes, £625, Bally, bally.co.uk; Paul: jacket, £2,500, Trousers, £1,100, Billionaire, harrods.com; jumper, £190, John Varvatos, johnvarvatos.com; Scarf, £385, Drake’s, drakes.com; loafers, £805, Giuseppe Zanotti, as before

fashion

United tastes Sharp tailoring, safari-inspired silhouettes, romantic florals, bold prints and statement evening wear. Try the latest trends out for size P h o t o g r a p h y: A l e x a n d e r B e e r Styling: Graham Cruz

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

FROM LEFT: Nell: top, £380, Marni, marni.com; trousers, £360, Emporio Armani, armani.com; shoes, £995, Charlotte Olympia, charlotteolympia.com; James: jacket, £2,275, Loewe, loewe.com; Shirt, £175, Sunspel, sunspel.com; trousers, £170, A.P.C., apc.fr; boots, £475, Crockett & Jones, crockettandjones.com; belt, £140, Emporio Armani, as before; Coco: top, £259, DAKS, as before; trousers, £545, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, as before; sandals, £480, Aquazzura, aquazzura.com; Farhiya: dress, £860, A.P.C, as before; boots, £1,350, Giuseppe Zanotti, as before; Paul: Jacket, £750, Qasimi, harveynichols.com; shirt, £250, Canali, canali.com; trousers, POa, Loewe, as before; Sandals, £340, Emporio Armani, as before; Remy: jacket, £512, Tonsure, tonsure.eu; Shirt, £445, Trousers, £225, Pringle of Scotland, PringleScotland.com; shoes, £410, Crockett & Jones, as before

fashion

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

from left: Farhiya: dress, £930, Red Valentino, redvalentino.com; heels, £560, Andrew GN, matchesfashion.com; Remy: jacket, £1,495, trousers, £495, shirt, £125, Gieves & Hawkes, as before; Pocket Square, £70, Drake’s, as before; sandals, £630, Giuseppe Zanotti, as before; Nell: shirt, £540, Emporio Armani, as before; bra, poa, Max Mara, maxmara.com; skirt, £550, KALITA, matchesfashion.com; sandals, £715, Valentino, as before; James: Crewneck, £240, Emporio Armani, as before; shirt, £129, trousers, £199, BOSS, hugoboss.com; loafers, £256, Just Cavalli, justcavalli.com; suitcase, £615, Steamline Luggage, steamlineluggage.com; Coco: dress, POa, Luisa Beccaria, luisabeccaria.it; Bag, £6,200, Ethan K, ethan-k.com; Paul: shirt, £135, Hackett, hackett.com; trousers, £300, Emporio Armani, as before; sandals, £395, Bally, as before

fashion

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from left: James: jacket, POa, trousers, POa, Dsquared2, as before; shirt, £195, John Varvatos, AS BEFORE; shoes, £189, BOSS, as before; Nell: dress, POa, Dsquared2, as before; shoes, £445, Christian Louboutin, AS BEFORE; Coco: top, £1,030, Sportmax, sportmax.com; dress, £1,145, Red Valentino, as before; shoes, £565, Charlotte Olympia, as before; Remy: two-piece suit, £530, BOSS, as before; shirt, £300, Pal Zileri, palzileri.com; shoes, £410, Crockett & Jones, as before; Farhiya: jumpsuit, £1,795, Temperley london, temperleylondon.com; boots, £820, Andrew GN, as before; Paul: Blazer, £1,890, Dunhill, dunhill.com; rollneck, £398, Billionaire, as before; trousers, POa, Gucci (vintage), 1stdibs.com; Trainers, £220, BOSS, as before; suitcase, £385, Steamline Luggage, as before

fashion

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FROM LEFT: Paul: blazer, £1,380, trousers, £460, Pal Zileri, as before; shirt, £165, Chucs, chucs.com; shoes, £565, Christian Louboutin, as before; Nell: Dress, POa, Alexandra Long, alexandralong.com; shoes, £875, Christian Louboutin, as before; Farhiya: dress, £690, Alexandra Long, as before; harness, POa, Antonio Berardi, antonioberardi.com; sandals, £750, Sergio Rossi, sergiorossi.com; James: Double-Breasted Suit, £815, Pocket Square, £55, Richard James, richardjames.co.uk; t-shirt, £125, Gieves & Hawkes, as before; Shoes, £795, Christian Louboutin, as before; Carry-on suitcase, £875, Stowaway suitcase, £970, Steamline Luggage, as before; Remy: Jacket, £1,095, Bally, as before; trousers, £110, Brooks Brothers, brooksbrothers.com; shirt, £105, BOSS, as before; shoes, £400, Crockett & Jones, as before; Coco: Dress, £1,295, Peter Pilotto, harrods.com; Jacket, POa, Dsquared2, as before; platforms, £565, Giuseppe Zanotti, as before

fashion

credits models: Remy Clerima, Coco Knight, Nell, James Rousseau, Paul Sculfor, Farhiya Shire, all at Select Model Management hair: Brady Lea at Stella Creative Artists using ColorProof make-up: Jonas Oliver using MAC pro photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistants: Radi Konstantinov and Bradley Polkinghorne stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assistants: Carmen Hudges and sophie Whitmore set design: Dom Chinea

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Anya Hindmarch S/S17

Fashion’s

FINEST The best bits of S/S17, from theatre-worthy sets to small-scale nail art masterpieces

Ready, set, go Viewers took a vintage road trip with Coach as models circled classic cars that looked like they’d been hauled out of the junkyard, while Anya Hindmarch and Marc Jacobs went futuristic with a white-washed arena and ethereal, low-hanging bulbs.

W o r d s : M e l i ss a Em e r s o n

Rodarte S/S17

Coach S/S17

Marc Jacobs S/S17

Candy crush

NOVIS S/S17

Sam McKnight’s bejewelled hair stole the show at Fendi.

The beauty investment

Work of art

As seen at David Koma and Rodarte, this oil-free cream formula concealer from NARS was a hit in all 16 shades. Soft Matte Complete Concealer, £23, NARS, narscosmetics.co.uk

Nails were tiny canvases at Novis, with minimalist, Cubist-inspired blocks of colour in Christian Louboutin’s Ni Toi Ni Moi and Wherever shades. £38 each, eu.christianlouboutin.com

FENDI S/S17

fashion

Anya Hindmarch S/S17

valentino s/s17

Shrink me

Fendi S/S17

Good things came in small packages this season. Hermès models wore tiny receptacles as necklaces, pom poms nearly outsized the bags at Fendi and you’d be lucky to get a lipstick in Valentino’s matchbox-sized offering.

Anya Hindmarch S/S17

DKNY S/S17

Jonathan SimkHai S/S17 Versace s/s17 Courrèges S/S17

Pyjama party

Ports 1961 S/S17

Last season’s bedroom slip trend might have been a bit more glamorous, but prepare to get extra comfortable this summer with dressing gown draping and silk pyjama suits. Port 1961 will take you from day to night in a blue and white striped number.

Hit the track The athleisure effect is still palpable on the catwalk – models at 3.1 Philip Lim looked track-ready in shorts and bomber jackets, while surfer-chic neoprene stole the show at Courrèges.

martine jarlgaard london S/S17

Tech talk Martine Jarlgaard London debuted at London Fashion Week with a mixed reality fashion show, where holograms of the collection were superimposed onto the presentation space and viewed through a headset. Meanwhile, Hussein Chalayan collaborated with Intel on glasses that capture biometric data such as heart rate and brainwaves, and belts with a built-in projector that display visual representations of the data onto a wall to indicate the stress levels of the wearer.

hussein chalayan S/S17

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fashion FASHION

Clean cut Boasting a style that is strikingly simple as well as meticulously manufactured, Corneliani marches to the beat of its own drum. The brand continues to fuse superb Italian craftsmanship with leading design and technology in its latest collection. Gentlemen can choose from three themes: Sartoria’s focus on handcrafted details such as canvassing and armhole construction; Savor’s smart and casual pieces made in a pure 140 wool thread; or Light Living’s update to the 2005 identity jacket, which includes a removable inner chest piece. This is the sportswear meets tailoring hybrid we’ve been waiting for. 131-132 New Bond Street, W1S, corneliani.com

Style spy

W O R D S : m a ri a n n e di c k

Heading outdoors Tricker’s of the trade Tricker’s, souter of choice for farmers and landed gentry since the 1800s, has modified its sturdy waterproof Malton boot to suit the modern adventurer. The staple seven-eyelet Derby has been adapted for motorcyclists in collaboration with specialist biker outlet Motolegends. Its trademark wide fit – originally designed so farmers could wear thick socks – has been streamlined, and a brogued gear pad change on the toe replaces the usual wingtip. Stomping around in a pair of these will confer some serious street cred. £390, motolegends.com

Grenfell outerwear has long been favoured by exceptional men, Sir David Attenborough among them. Many pieces are still crafted from the Grenfell cloth that was developed in the early 1920s (and named after missionary Sir Wilfred Grenfell), including the Walker jacket (pictured) that has been re-introduced this season. Alongside the Golfer and Shooter jackets, it completes the traditional Grenfell Trinity. £595, available at Cordings, 19 Piccadilly, W1J, cordings.co.uk; grenfell.com

Sunday driver Morgan Motor Company’s classic British sports cars take driving back to its glamorous and exhilarating roots, which is why it often inspires unique sartorial collaborations. The latest is a collection of sunglasses by young eyewear brand Taylor Morris. Their shape is based on 1930s driving goggles, while the design is evocative of the original Morgan 3 Wheeler: the stippled metal on the arms represents the machine’s perforated tailpipe heat guard, and the leather brow bar is a reference to its distinctive interiors. £240, taylor-morris.com 77

Hall

couture

Photo credit: ©Morgane Le Gall

Jean Paul Gaultier perfume advert – usually starring toned Breton-striped sailors and corset-clad models – is as instantly recognisable as the designer’s seminal torso-shaped bottles. His discernible aesthetic has been reimagined for the home in a new wallpaper collaboration with Lelievre, a Parisian company he values for its couture levels of craftsmanship. The prints range from the Japanese tattoo-inspired Horimono and Irésumi, to the more provincial Enlacés and Récréation rolls that are reminiscent of the 18th-century decorative motif, toiles de jouy. Gaultier has updated the prints with his own characteristically playful twists: a closer inspection reveals that the central female figure and some of her cherubs are wearing his trademark marinière stripes. Horimono wallpaper, £110 per 10m roll, Jean Paul Gaultier for Lelievre, lelievre.com

interiors

Future fabrics

photography: Piero Gemelli

Opposites attract in Rubelli’s new Venezia collection. Using modern technology, prints and fabrics, the brand’s archive is reimagined for the 21st century. The art of 3D printing is used to reproduce contemporary embroidery, while digital prints are transformed into trompe l’oeil fabrics, and the Cordoba line fuses contrasting patterns to create a striking patchy and worn effect. In the new campaign (pictured left), a Robin Day easy chair is covered in the Mercurio fabric: a heavy, tactile material in a spectrum of iridescent metallics. Wallcoverings from £96.50 per roll, fabric from £109 per metre, rubelli.com

Interiors news

The lifestyle aquatic Aerin Lauder, granddaughter of Estée, takes inspiration from all things aquatic in her latest accessories and candle collection, Island Retreat. Coastal flora and fauna transform everyday items into chic objets d’art from golden coral-shaped bottle stops to candles that look like sea urchins. We especially love the pebbly shagreen leather range in a faded lagoon shade: the epitome of breezy Hamptons-inspired elegance (pictured above and below). From £78, aerin.com

WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

New Pompeii Another stunning installation will be revealed at Achille Salvagni’s atelier on Grafton Street in March, reinterpreting tragic treasures from Pompeii as symbols of a new beginning. A curvaceous gold-plated bronze console table topped with rosso levanto marble – the collection’s centrepiece – is an homage to a neoclassical painting of the ancient monument of Villa Diomede. €52,000 + VAT, Pompeii, 10 March – 5 July, 12 Grafton Street, W1S, achillesalvagni.com

A new leaf Floris has closed its doors for refurbishment for the first time in more than a century to retain and protect its signature façade and Spanish mahogany cabinets. Not to worry, though, all the exquisite perfumes are available at a pop-up shop down the road, including the new Rose and Peony home fragrance and candle. This feminine scent – with notes of iris and musk as well as spicy cinnamon and clove – launches in time for Mother’s Day. From £25, Floris, available at 68 Jermyn Street, SW1Y, until 89 Jermyn Street re-opens, florislondon.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

As we take a sartorial step forward into S/S17, Kari Colmans notes the catwalk’s biggest trends and shows how they can work in your home, too

Milk bottle, £125, Samantha Sweet, libertylondon.com Tea light holder, £40, Tom Dixon, selfridges.com Cushion cover, £80, CSAO, conranshop.co.uk

Lampshade, £44, Broste Copenhagen, loandbeholdstore.com Diffusing sphere, £355, Fornasetti, matchesfashion.com Candle, £140, Fornasetti, matchesfashion.com

interiors

Pendant lamp, £415, Arturo Alvarez, conranshop.co.uk

Wall light, £140, Old School Electric, oldschoolelectric.com

Bed, £4,095, thesofaandchair.co.uk

Bowl, £89, Jerpoint Glass, libertylondon.com

W Candle, £91, Aqua di Parma, selfridges.com

Candle, £225, L’Object, conranshop.co.uk

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

ith so much time spent poring over our wardrobes and an ongoing facination with next season’s looks, it’s no surprise that the cream of the catwalk crop is filtering into our homes, too. Ruffles and layers made waves from London to New York in the S/S17 ready-to-wear shows: Chloé, Loewe, Erdem, Alexander McQueen and Rodarte presented frills of all colours and textures, with many favouring elegant layers in lightweight, ethereal fabrics. A trans-seasonal staple for a number of years on the trot, we still haven’t fallen out of love with the colour pink: Bottega Veneta, Hermès, Valentino and Balenciaga dared to shock with fuchsia, while Givenchy and Chanel went for softer, candyfloss hues. And of course, florals aren’t going anywhere either: Coach, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and Marques’ Almeida have adapted the versatile print for both punky and pretty looks.

interiors

Teapot, £444, Villari, amara.com

Pouf, £339.90, normann-copenhagen.com

Wallpaper, £76 a roll, cole-and-son.com

Illuminated bedside table, £549, Ibride, madeindesign.co.uk

Sofa, from £4,999, & Tradition, houseology.com

Table lamp, £696, heathfield.co.uk

Cushion, £228, Missoni Home, amara.com

But when it comes to our home, it’s a lot harder to just pick up a look and try it on for size, only to discard it once the season is over. Indeed, we are in it for the long haul, so it’s important to balance boldness with longevity, while still making a sartorial statement. From & Tradition’s sofa in the perfect blush and Fornasetti’s funky floral candles to Arturo Alvarez’s tulle-like ruffle pendant light (all pictured), there are a handful of pieces to bring your home up to speed this season. As the celebrated interior designer Bunny Williams once said: “If you love something, it will work. That’s the only real rule.”

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

london

20 GRAFTON STREET UK.HOLLYHUNT.COM

health & beauty

A spring bouquet

Liquid luxury

Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria collection has been an ode to horticultural beauty since its launch in 1999. Like flowers that fade, new scents come and go each spring, with just four now in the permanent collection. This year’s addition – in the collection’s signature honeycomb “bee bottle” – is Bergamote Calabria, a light green scent with zingy ginger and pink peppercorn notes. £48.50, house of fraser.co.uk

Beauty news W O R D S : mel i ssa emerso n

Taste of the tropics The new Tropical Spring collection from Dolce & Gabbana is inspired – as has become so perenially typical of the brand – by Sicily, and this time it focuses on the region’s most exotic scenery. Imitate the bloom of hibiscus with vibrant coral lips and complement it with a sun-kissed glow from the new Tropical Pink and Tropical Coral compacts. Finish the look by adorning nails in sparkling gold Beach Sand polish, or for more of a contrast in the evening, opt for the deep Amethyst. From £21, harrods.com

Henry Jacques is a ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ perfume house, but intentionally so. Focusing on exclusivity and bespoke scent requests, it was founded almost half a century ago by Henry Cremona. However, the brand recently launched its first permanent collection – Les Classiques de HJ. The entire set of 50 fragrances are now available at its exclusive Harrods boutique. Among the scents is Osara, a fruity blend of mandarin and mirabelle plum. Those with a sweet tooth, meanwhile, might find themselves drawn to the violet, raspberry and vanillascented Kavianca; and the more piquant Jeannice has notes of pepper, cedar and sandalwood. In a nod to tradition, each perfume is designed to be applied directly to the skin. The purity of the liquids, which come in 15 and 30ml sizes, means only a few tiny drops are required. From £410, harrods.com, parfums-henry-jacques.com

Shower in scent L’Artisan Parfumeur has transformed five of its most recognisable scents into paraben and silcone-free perfumed shower gels and body lotions, including the blackcurrant-heavy Mûre et Musc Extrême and fig-scented Premier Figuier. The 300ml bottles in monochrome will give a hotel suite makeover to any bathroom. Spray with the matching fragrance afterwards for longer-lasting intensity. Shower gel, £26; body lotion, £30, artisanparfumeur.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

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health & beauty

SALON REVIEW

A blank canvas Nail art has swept the United States with force. Camilla Apcar visits one of Mayfair’s own fledgling answers to the trend

thoroughly enjoy painting my own nails. Yet when it comes to anything beyond a single block colour, I falter. Not that I haven’t attempted all manner of nail art: transfers, pens, beads, tape. It just never turns out even remotely the way I want it to. Nail art has been around for thousands of years. In ancient cultures it was used as a status symbol. The Qing dynasty, particularly the famed Empress Dowager Cixi, grew talons so long that they needed their own decorative cases for protection. In recent years, the idea has accelerated far beyond French manicures, but unfortunately London is lagging behind our less reserved counterparts in New York, Los Angeles and Chicago. There, salons and stylists are creating elaborate designs involving sequins, 3D adornments and playful motifs in miniature. This might sound like a teenage girl’s fantasy – but there is a way to look fashionable without appearing utterly juvenile, and with relatively short nails. For those pressed for time or who loathe the idea of acrylics, at the end of last year Hiro Miyoshi Hair and Beauty on Curzon Street welcomed Natalia to its team – a manicurist who has eight years experience, as well as a good dose of artistic flair. After a quick file, tidy-up and shape, Natalia’s canvas is ready. Her palette includes most Shellac colours in the spectrum, in as workplace-appropriate or daring combinations as you like. Not to mention pearlescent or glittery. Natalia is extremely patient while I seesaw between all the imaginable

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

In ancient cultures, nail art was used as a status symbol

options: delicate, intricate floral designs that are almost painterly; polka dots or other minuscule shapes in different colours and outlines; a harlequin motif that would be just the ticket if I were golfing at the weekend (slim chance). Eventually I settle on something fun that won’t raise too many eyebrows at work for the next fortnight. Natalia sets to work, unphased by working on a cushion on her lap rather than seated at a nail station. Within 45 minutes I’m out the door again. Using powder and stencils, Natalia can also create embossed swirls, avant-garde geometric webs or stripes; or when a fancy dress code calls, whimsical cartoon faces and gemstoneencrusted patterns. These all take a little longer – a small price to pay, really, for a manicure masterpiece. From £45, 63 Curzon Street, W1J, hiromiyoshi.com

A perfect fit The Bodydoctor’s training has transformed Sophie Dahl, Lily Allen and some of the UK’s best football players. With the launch of a series of new programmes, Kate Harrison finds out how anyone can benefit from his fitness regimes

“G

et fit, lose fat, call the Doc. If you do that, I will change your life forever,” says personal trainer David Marshall. Having seen the results first-hand, I know he’s right. Think of pretty much any newsworthy body overhaul from the past two decades and you will find this man behind it, holding kettlebells. Marshall is the trainer responsible for taking Sophie Dahl from a point-proving size 18 model to a beautifully svelte – and healthy – size eight; he sent Lily Allen away three dress sizes smaller in just six weeks; and turned Rachel Weisz into a lean Russian sniper for her role in Enemy at the Gates. Better known as the Bodydoctor, Marshall has been transforming bodies for more than 20 years. With a book of high-profile clients passing through his studio, Marshall has complete faith in his abilities to make people fit and enjoy the process.

“You only look good when you feel good, and you only feel good when you’re healthy. That only happens when you restore your body to optimum health and put your body back into balance. The aesthetic is a by-product,” Marshall says with conviction. “You need to have fun doing it or you look for excuses to quit.” I personally completed Marshall’s six-week training programme and emerged a stone lighter and two dress sizes smaller (while still enjoying the odd glass of wine). With an abundance of energy I never thought humanly possible for a mother of three children under five, I can vouch for the prolonged success of his training techniques. Marshall is an intriguing character with a larger-than-life personality. “Bless you my child for you have thinned” is a phrase that can be heard as you finish your final reps. Marshall takes the drudgery out of exercise with humour and has

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“You create lean muscle, you raise your metabolism, you burn fat and lose weight – simple” surrounded himself with the very best to ensure optimum results. Marshall’s A-team works in unison to ensure a holistic approach to his fitness regime, which explains his ability to achieve maximum results in minimum time. The trainers are fantastic – each having signed up to the Bodydoctor cult themselves. They make sure you don’t slack off even for a single rep; an hour spent at the gym is exactly an hour of working out. Marshall has even put together a handy eBook so you can keep up the programme while on the go. Nutritionist Amanda Moore completes the magic circle, with a personalised guide to ensure you get the most out of your training sessions. She collaborates with local restaurants and has devised a healthy eating menu, which can even be delivered to your door (the bento boxes from Chisou are a personal favourite). The studios are predictably kitted out with every fitness machine you could possibly imagine – and a fair few you couldn’t. Based on resistance training

over a full range of movement (a bit like yoga or pilates with weights), a combination of exercises are designed to fatigue each muscle group in turn. The philosophy is rather clean cut; train to a level where the body accepts exercise. Ultimately, practising each exercise with correct posture and core awareness gears your body towards maximising your energy expenditure in minimal time. Once learned, the exercises are hard to forget. Marshall’s favourite, the GTS (gravity training system), is a machine that uses a glideboard to replicate every kind of lunge and resistance exercise conceivable. Every exercise works from the tummy out. “You create lean muscle, you raise your metabolism, you burn fat and lose weight – simple,” he chants happily. So popular is the equipment that Marshall has launched a series of small group training sessions with a maximum of six participants per class. Marshall is keen to assure that this programme is about getting people healthy, not weight loss. If you need to lose weight you will; similarly if you need to put it on, then you will. In the days of a looming national health crisis, his attitude is something we should all pay attention to. In fact, Marshall has devised the Bodydoctor junior fitness programme to help combat the growing issue of childhood obesity and provide a positive outlet for pre-teens and teenagers at the constant mercy of technology and social media. “You only have a happy kid if you have an active kid,” he points out. He hopes to implement a fitness regime into schools nationwide to provide the right education for children from an early age that will see them through life. The Bodydoctor doesn’t stop there. With bespoke training in mind for everyone, Marshall is launching couples training Fit for Love, based on his belief that “a couple that sweat together, stay together”. Training in pairs is perfect for those preparing for a wedding or a parent looking to spend some quality time with their child. Simply put, subscribe to the Bodydoctor fitness regime in whatever capacity, do the sessions and enjoy the results. David Marshall at Bodydoctor Health & Fitness, 36 South Audley Street, W1K, 020 7499 9990, or 119 Eaton Square, SW1W, 020 7235 2211, bodydoctor.com

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Rice to the occasion Sake is one of those love/hate drinks, and more often than not, it falls into the latter category. But hold off judgment until you try one of Roka Mayfair’s premium sake pairing dinners. With the help of experts in Japanese rice wine, you’ll be able to discover tropical notes of pineapple, lychee and melon. Learn about the craft, from the rice-polishing process to the use of koji mould, while you sample same of Roka’s finest and most generous sharing platters: soft wagyu beef nigiri, tart yellowtail tartare, sweet scallop skewers and meaty grilled lobster. But save space for the impressive dessert platter of sorbets and traditional sweet treats, accompanied by a drop of Japanese plum wine. £90, 6 April, 4 September, 9 October, 6.30pm, to book contact: sammie@rokarestaurant.com

Food & drink news WORDS: HANNAH LEMON

Be good to yourself

A refined taste

Gone are the days of lettuce leaf starvation and cold-pressed juices, as the Wellington Lounge at the InterContinental London Park Lane serves up all manner of healthy indulgences for Guiltless Tea. Gobble down devilishly decadent wholewheat and buttermilk scones, and flourless chocolate and peppermint cakes without a second thought, while sipping on cane rum, fennel and lime juice cocktails. The menus are free of refined sugar and can be tailored to any diet. £42, until end of May, One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J, wellington-lounge.co.uk

Berry fine wine Local wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd has released a new bottle in its popular Good Ordinary Claret collection. While exceptionally affordable, there are only 4,000 bottles of the new Bacchus-inspired design drawn by London-based designer Luke Edward Hall, who replaces Paul Smith as the chosen illustrator. The Merlot-dominated classic red Bordeaux blend is highly drinkable with hints of black cherry, bramble fruit and wood smoke, equally at home with a weekday supper or a grand Sunday roast. £9.75, 3 St James’s Street, SW1A, bbr.com

Calling all fashionistas: put down your handbags and take off your heels. The Polo Bar at The Westbury, layered with Swarovski crystals and Fendi detailing, is an ideal setting for a bit of R&R. Indulge in the new menu of slow-cooked Gloucester porchetta or artichoke and spinach ravioli. Forget about fitting into your new LBD, as the highlight for dessert is banoffee: a sort of deconstructed pie with caramelised banana, dulce de leche and dark chocolate ganache. 37 Conduit Street, W1S, westburymayfair.com

food & drink

r e s ta u r a n t r e v i e w

Jamavar’s new jewel An Indian street food stalwart with all its smoky spices has settled on Mount Street. Marianne Dick eagerly welcomes it into the fold

onday evenings on Mount Street make for a serene stroll, but despite the quiet crowds, tables at the new fine dining Indian restaurant Jamavar London are quickly filling up. This is reassuring considering the recent history of this particular address. The highly anticipated Le Chabanais and the trendy European late-night bar and brasserie, 8 Mount Street, closed their doors after mere months. Jamavar, however, feels far from a hasty replacement. It is the sixth restaurant of its kind to be opened by the family-run Leela group and the first outside of India. The regal setting of the Leela Palace in Bangalore (where the Lobster idli sambhar first Jamavar opened in 2001) has been reworked by Fabled Studio to suit the savvy city diner. An opulent two-floor space boasts leather banquettes, dark wood panelling and details inspired by the 16th-century Kashmiri shawls that the restaurant takes its name from. It’s lavish and comfortable with a smoking lounge sumptuousness not dissimilar to nearby Gymkhana. The parallels don’t stop there. Rohit Ghai (former head chef of the JKS restaurant group that includes Trishna, Gymkhana and Hoppers) has been recruited as executive chef. If you’re going to bring fine Indian dining to London, you might as well do it right. My guest and I opt for the non-vegetarian small plates, which are inspired by Indian street food markets. To nudge our tastebuds into action we are presented with a mouth-tingling Tellicherry pepper and garlic soft shell crab served with damson chutney and garlic chips. Then comes the intriguing lobster idli sambhar. Pillowy rice pancakes are de-skewered by our waiter atop meaty morsels of lobster and a punchy aubergine stew; a jug of which is left for us to top up as we wish.

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The next dish – the malai stone bass tikka – is a dense, buttery chunk of fish charcoal grilled on the tandoor, which gives it an incredible smoky richness. Alongside it sits a scoop of fresh avocado, coriander and mint chutney: a cool and well-suited companion. For those craving a little familiarity, the Delhi butter chicken (a Jamavar signature) is the answer. Complex and indulgent, it is served with all the desirable trimmings including dhungar dal and palak paneer. While the thought of dessert might seem ludicrous after all the above (and much more) the chilli chikki lava chocolate fondant provides the right amount of sweetness to round off the meal. The Leela Group’s Hindi motto ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ means ‘Guest is God’. All things considered – from the ambience and the staff to the masterful cuisine – Jamavar has lived up to its legacy. The non-vegetarian tasting menu is £60 for seven courses or £110 with accompanying wine flight, 8 Mount Street, W1K, jamavarrestaurants.com

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food & drink

Nick Hammond drops by the kitchen of the historic Oriental Club to find authentic Eastern cooking of the highest order

he kitchen is surprisingly small. Every work surface, plate, bowl, utensil and carefully calibrated digital dial is gleaming and in its rightful place. Ready for action. Then comes a frisson of electricity, a gentle hum of anticipation; we are moments away from another lunchtime service at the Oriental Club. Pots begin bubbling and orders are called out to various sections working in harmony. An exhilarating and heady mix of spice fills the air. How many thousands of dishes have been rustled up by chefs in pristine whites and whisked away by elegant serving staff over the years? The history of the Oriental Club, originally founded by the Duke of Wellington nearly 200 years ago, is never far away. Now a place for men

and women to enjoy exclusive facilities (40 club suites, an open-air terrace, meeting rooms, an IT suite, drawing rooms and a members’ bar), it was once a retreat for officers and officials who, on returning from India and the East, wanted to continue indulging in the exotic and wondrous sights they’d grown accustomed to. These Eastern flavours are still found in every subtle recipe. While you’ll find club favourites aplenty on the Oriental menu – steak and kidney pudding or sole meunière – this is also the place to sample authentic Eastern cooking of the highest order. Executive chef Wesley Smalley has no less than three full-time curry chefs working for him, as well as kitchen staff serving a vast range of Western dishes morning, noon and night.

this page: all images ©Paul Winch-Furness

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head curry chef Dinesh Sharma

“When I arrived at the Oriental Club four years ago, I saw an opportunity to re-introduce its heritage of Indian cuisine,” Smalley explains at the end of service, when whites are no longer pristine and the air rings with clunking pans and the thunder of glass washers. “I began looking for experienced curry chefs who could deliver first-class Eastern cookery. I was convinced that they could pass on their knowledge of spice, and we could use it in every other world cuisine, too. “There were deep discussions with our head curry chef, Dinesh Sharma, and sous chef Chintamani Mamgaim, on how they felt the final dishes should taste. Dinesh felt strongly about serving a real home-cooked style of Indian cuisine,

like he used to get as a child. This has worked perfectly in a private members’ club setting. Many of our members are ex-patriots of the East or often travel to Asia, so they are well versed in what authentic cuisine should taste like.” The very best cuisine of course, depends on the seasons; and Eastern cooking is no different. “[There is] game in the autumn and winter, asparagus, morels and wild garlic in the spring or lobster in the summer – and we try to reflect them and do them justice,” says Smalley. “Once the concept of the dish is together, we then experiment with the marinade process and levels of spice and chilli before cooking and tasting.” This fastidious devotion to flavour has borne fruit. Private dining, banquets and tutored

food & drink

THE ORIENTAL CLUB

Executive chef Wesley Smalley

tastings are packed with enthusiastic participants. Pork cheek vindaloo with white vinegar and chillies; tandoori Cornish gurnard with yellow mustard yoghurt and curry leaves; fish amritsari. These morsels reflect both the past and the innovative present of this famous venue. “On one hand, it’s a challenge to have a kitchen preparing and cooking two cuisines,” says Smalley. “The prep times and finishing of dishes are different. But it’s forced me to design the menu so that they merge, and it has created an integral sense of teamwork from both sides of the kitchen.” The kitchen at the Oriental Club uses several core ingredients, such as tarka (a mix of ginger, garlic, cumin and chilli flakes) that goes into the dal, a staple served with every Indian meal.

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There are two tandoor ovens, where naan and paratha (traditional flatbread) are cooked, as well as gloriously colourful dishes, such as basil and mango salmon or the deeply-flavoured venison marinated in black sesame and yoghurt. The rich scents of jasmine, cumin and cardamom abound. East meets west across this kitchen. It’s hard to imagine a more intriguing blend of flavours and dishes that retain tradition, yet capture a certain forward-thinking flair. And after dinner, when the linen is stripped from the tables and the glassware is carefully polished, there’s always the library for those who want to brush up on a little Club history. Oriental Club, Stratford House, 11 Stratford Place, W1C, orientalclub.org.uk

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Season’s greetings The Mandarin Oriental New York boasts modern design, stunning city views and now a collection of exclusive fashion sketches by Rodarte founder Kate Mulleavy. The first of the four seasonal artworks was revealed in November – a chic black off-the-shoulder number – and in March comes the unveiling of spring. From around £560, mandarinoriental.com

slip and stride

Travel news W O R D S : j ames c one y

Whatever the weather More than five months’ work has gone into the multi-million pound renovation of Dukes London – including a new design partnership with Liberty. But one thing Dukes cannot improve is the weather in St James’s... or can it? Opening in April on Palm Jumeirah, Dukes Dubai will give guests the opportunity to experience the best of British in a warmer climate. Find cheese from Paxton and Whitfield, candles from Floris London and, of course, a selection of richly coloured Liberty fabric finishes. From £212, dukesdubai.com; from £311, dukeshotel.com

After working for the likes of Dior, Alexander McQueen and Lacoste, Norwegian designer Astrid Andreassen took a leap to launch her eponymous footwear brand in 2011, specialising in Scandinavian slippers. With a simple, elegant design, these pieces by no means sacrifice style for comfort – not to mention they are made entirely from ethically sourced materials and manufactured by family-run firms within the European Union. The latest collection is inspired by traditional Scandi woven paper ornaments. From £50, aandreassen.com

Get on the grid When the 2017 Formula One season kicks off, just 20 drivers will take to the track. But in celebration of one of the most hair-raising and anticipated Grand Prix – Monaco – Exclusive GP is offering 25 supercar enthusiasts the get in on the action. An eight-day drive from Mayfair to Monte Carlo will pass through the Champagne wine region, the Furka Pass, St Moritz and Lake Como, ending in the French Riviera. Expect Michelin-starred dining, yacht parties and a Veuve Clicquot champagne tour. Start your engines. exclusivegp.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Suite dreams The Mandeville Hotel Words: Hannah Lemon

hristian Lacroix celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. It’s not been an easy three decades. The brand, famed for haute couture designs and prêt-á-porter fashion fell into administration in 2009, culling a workforce of 124 to just 12. Forced to limit its production line to accessories and perfumes, the brand has since sought better times in interiors.

The exuberant home collections have been snapped up by a variety of hotels in Paris: the Hotel du Petit Moulin, Le Bellechasse SaintGermain, and the Hotel Notre Dame Saint Michel. Fresh to this line up is four-star The Mandeville Hotel in Marylebone. The grand white stucco entrance to the residence is in the heart of central London. Flanked by gleaming pillars, the façade

Palm trees and bright handcrafted fabrics are accompanied by flashy accents Under creative director Sacha Walckhoff, Maison Christian Lacroix has forged an exclusive partnership with Designers Guild since 2011. Signature flamboyant patterns have been transferred onto wallpapers and fabrics – floral harlequin shapes, multi-coloured foliage, hot pink leopard print, crushed velvet, and exotic panoramas of palm trees. The designs may be an acquired taste, but they’re certainly popular.

is an impressive introduction to a rather unassuming reception waiting inside. As with most places in London, space is at a premium and The Mandeville is no exception (a ‘Tiny Single Room’ is included on the suite list). The new selection of Deluxe Riviera Rooms on the fifth floor, however, are a little more roomy, and this is where Christian Lacroix has worked its ostentatious magic.

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Using the Belles Rives fabrics collection, Christian Lacroix revisits scenes of the French Riviera. The chaotic Santo Sospir villa that belonged to French socialite Francine Weisweiller is reflected on the eclectic walls, as are elements of the classic film To Catch a Thief starring Grace Kelly and Cary Grant, through pick’n’mix jewellery patterns. As soon as the lift opens, I am bombarded with candy-stripe corridors and rainbow-coloured cushions. I have four suites to choose from in the collection: Midnight Blue (sultry navy surfaces and shiny bed linen), Jewel Box (a blue and white kaleidoscopic take on classic Lacroix designs), Classic Lacroix (a simple, romantic black and white affair), and the Jardin Exotique (a fresh and jungly take on Monaco’s botanical gardens). I opt for the latter. Palm trees and bright handcrafted fabrics that line the walls and frame the windows are accompanied by flashy accents –from Julian Chichester pineapple lamps to leopard skin-cut velvet. There is even a nod to Breton stripe shirts with a signature wall of black and white lines. While the design may be extravagant, the facilities are pared back. A small bath and shower are in the underfloor-heated bathroom next door, while the mini bar, Nespresso machine and desk tick all the necessary boxes. Outside the view is somewhat less chic. Expecting a romantic Mary Poppins-esque panorama of London’s rooftops, I am faced with a far less exciting reality: a rather unattractive sight of air conditioning vents, fire escapes and drain pipes. But I’m not here to stare at back buildings – this is the perfect time to shop. A stone’s throw from Oxford Street and a short walk to Bond

like Julian Chichester pineapple lamps Street or Soho, I’m soon busy filling up shopping bags. Once they’re bursting at the seams, I make a pit-stop at the Reform Social & Grill, the hotel’s restaurant and bar. While the cocktails are sublime and the bar is buzzing in the early hours of the evening, dinner is somewhat lacklustre, and my companion and I end up being the only customers sat at a table. This doesn’t detract from the food however: a reasonably priced, gastro-

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pub-type menu of fish and chips, perfectly cooked lamb, meaty burgers and Shepherd’s pie. Wined, dined and ready to retreat to my tropical suite, I think that Lacroix would be proud to learn that, 30 years from starting out, he still manages to entertain with his imaginative and most impressive creations. Mandeville Place, Marylebone, W1U, mandeville.co.uk

ne of the world’s most luxurious destinations, Dubai has become the holiday hotspot of the United Arab Emirates. Modern skyscrapers impose over the entire city, perfectly balanced by palm trees at every turn. Qantas A380 flies twice daily from London Heathrow (from £318), and one feels like having landed not just in another country, but in some futuristic wonder-realm. The 2717-foot Burj Khalifa is perhaps the finest example of Dubai’s lavishness. Standing at the heart of the city, it is the tallest building in the world – and the extravagance does not end there, for at the foot of this impressive structure lies The Dubai Mall (again, the world’s largest). In addition to a string of designer boutiques, there is an aquarium where you can watch sharks swim, an ice rink and even a dancing waterfall – complete with a light show set to operatic music. As Dubai continues to place itself at the forefront of technology, many more buildings are in construction ahead of the six-month World Expo that will be held here in 2020. A mammoth 25 million visitors are expected to visit its 438-hectare site, which will be connected to three international airports and its own transport network. Meanwhile, the business bay area is emerging as a city within the city, materialising the grand vision of Sheikh Mohammed, who has been the UAE’s vice-president and prime minister since 2006. Man-made canals and ever-changing landscaped gardens provide a sense of calm amid the high-rises; luxury hotels are aplenty and many boast the ostentatious glitz and glamour one would come to expect from the region. Beyond the buildings lie miles of desert calling for adventure. You can continue to marvel at the cityscape from the beach or head to the marina to enjoy its attractions and some spectacular sunsets. Excess is the way of life here, and this modern metropolis is only just getting started.

[city break ]

Dubai

A destination where glamour is part of everyday life, Natalie Read finds an oasis in the desert

top and bottom right: dubai city scape, photography: shutterstock. all other images courtesy of The oberoi, dubai

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Where to stay With a string of awards to its name, The Oberoi, Dubai, is a peaceful haven of luxury away from the bustle of city life. Guests can enjoy an entire floor dedicated to health and wellness, while spacious suites have floor-to-ceiling windows from which to admire the stunning views. This place of serenity focuses on minimalism and subtle decadence. The scent of jasmine fills every floor; outdoors, trees attract white-eared bulbul birds. You could easily forget you are in a city at all. From about £142, oberoihotels.com

SUITCASE E S S E N T I A L S

#1 Blazer, £360, Barena, mrporter.com

Where to eat Ananta is the signature Indian restaurant at The Oberoi, capturing the country’s rich culinary heritage through a variety of authentic cuisine. Delicacies encompass both traditional and contemporary Indian cooking, and pay tribute to the royal courts of Hyderabad, Lucknow and Rajasthan. Kashmiri lamb rogan josh is countered by plum curry and truffle paneer bhurjee; and for dessert, plum fondue or Kashmiri apple pie with blackberry caviar. Admire the chefs’ showmanship through the glass-fronted kitchen while experiencing exceptional service and attention to fine detail.

#2 Pocket square, £55, drakes.com

#3 Beach towel, £98, uk.jonathanadler.com

#4 Fragrance, £54 for 50ml, gucci.com

Mayfair recommends This year, BBC Proms will travel to the Middle East for the first time to hold six concerts and a four-day programme rich with classical, British and new music (recorded for broadcast on BBC Radio 3). There will also be workshops, masterclasses and open rehearsals that will provide budding musicians and singers the opportunity to develop their skills and engage with the performers. Activities include a series of workshops for local choirs and a masterclass for chamber musicians at the Centre for Musical Arts in Dubai. 21-24 March, dubaiopera.com

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#5 Bag, £775, troubadourgoods.com

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Castles on the continent Marianne Dick and Francesca Lee-Rogers pitch chateau against schloss in a quest to find the ultimate European fortress of luxury

this page: schloss elmau; opposite: Château d’Estoublon

Schloss Elmau W o r d s : F r a n c e s c a L ee - R o g e r s

Where: Deep within the Bavarian Alps at the foot of

WHY SCHLOSS?

a nature reserve, among high mountain peaks and dense forests – but a 90-minute drive from the region’s capital Munich.

The sun is shining, the sky is a clear shade of blue and there’s a fresh chill in the air. Snow sits atop majestic mountains that frame the pictureperfect skyline, while lush and verdant forests add colour to the landscape. Rushing streams fill the vast lakes, and the air is so clean that it’s no surprise some of the world’s leading spa, health and wellbeing retreats call it home. Welcome to Bavaria. Schloss Elmau – two hotels in one resort – is imposing on arrival: the original early 20th-century schloss is über grand, yet blends with the all-suite retreat added in 2015. The interior is impressive, spacious and, more importantly, comfortable, with natural materials combined with subtle Asian influences. My suite has a huge balcony that looks out to the mountains – the perfect spot to just sit and be still for a while. The majority of my time is spent in the largest hammam

History: The castle was built between 1914 and 1916 by Dr Johannes Peter Müller, a theologian and philosopher, as a hub for a new artistic and intellectual community. After being severely damaged by fire, its owner Dietmar Müller-Elmau transformed the retreat in 2007. Before that, it served as a US Army field hospital, and was the venue of the G7 Summit in 2015.

Visit for: spa and sports. For the culturallyinclined, Schloss Elmau boasts a world-class concert hall, bookshop, four libraries plus an itinerary of music, literature and debating events throughout the year. Yet the possibilities for skiing, snowboarding, hiking, canoeing, horse-riding and paragliding – to name but a few activities – are pretty much year-round.

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west of Istanbul and the retreat’s multiple infinity pools – nothing can quite beat swimming al fresco under the stars in a heated pool – as well as in the many restaurants here. From a gourmet tasting menu at Schloss Elmau’s Michelin-starred restaurant to fondue feasts, there’s an eatery for every occasion. For those looking to ‘get away from it all’, this is the place, even if it’s just for a few days. From £410 per night half-board, schloss-elmau.de

Visit for: culinary culture. Château d’Estoublon produces five different types of oil, as well as its own blend. Valérie insists on handselecting the olives, while the flacons she has designed may remind you of your favourite fragrances: she describes the aromatic selection as “perfume for the table”. In a similar vein, Rémy’s 47 acres of vines yield a range of organic wines. Tour the farmland, factories and wine cellars, or sample their delights with a meal by the private chef.

WHY CHATEAU?

Château d’Estoublon Words: Marianne Dick

Where: Nestled between Arles and Avignon in idyllic Provence, around an hour’s drive from Marseille airport.

History: Built in the 18th century, the chateau underwent a major restoration in 2014 to welcome guests for overnight stays and special events. Its 494-acre estate is managed by husband and wife team Rémy and Valérie Reboul, whose family background lies in Swiss watchmaking (they acquired Estoublon in 1999).

Whizzing past the uniform cypress trees that line the grand driveway of the Estoublon estate is an apt introduction to this impressive chateau. Inside, the lounge is so cosy that Valérie and Rémy often work from here. There are immaculately arranged heirlooms dotted all around – including Valérie’s father’s hunting trophies. But the chateau’s pièce de résistance is its location. Tackle the neighbouring Chaîne des Alpilles – known locally as ‘the little Alps’ – or soak up the scenery by the pool. For rainy days, there’s a cinema and spa. My suite is at the front of the castle, adjoined to a plush living area that leads out to its own terrace and twin staircases. I can stretch across the bed without reaching either edge. This particular suite also has a theatrical red lounge with another private terrace, a bar full of whiskies and a taxidermy bear guards my door. I feel like royalty. Château d’Estoublon is an inimitable product of experience and enthusiasm, held to impeccable standards. Yet, somehow, it feels like you’ve just arrived at your own holiday home. From £13,600 per night, estoublon.com

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103

I Sounds and

sweet airs Tucked away in the tropical western Atlantic, Bermuda is a classic desert island getaway – and the ultimate in sun-soaked, palm-fringed relaxation. But when the America’s Cup gets underway, it will become one of the world’s hottest luxury boltholes. Nick Smith reports

ts name alone conjures images of piracy, golden doubloons, rum and the Spanish Main. But as Bermuda prepares to host the world’s greatest sailing event – the 35th America’s Cup – all eyes will be on a 21stcentury Great Age of Sail, where Captain Jack Sparrow makes way for the likes of modern yachting legend and Team UK’s skipper Sir Ben Ainslie, and the romance of silver and spices of yore is replaced by luxury branding from the competition’s sponsor, Louis Vuitton. While the great and the good will flock to these Atlantic isles for a slice of the action, there’s much more to Bermuda than the battle for the ‘Auld Mug’, as the cup is affectionately called (and which Britain has never won). Sailing is, of course the number one pastime here, and to take a spin around the Great Sound at the ‘horse-shoe’ end of the archipelago is to see some of the world’s finest beach real estate competing for palm-fringed sea-views, and where the mega-wealthy get away from the pressures of modern life on private islands. From the vantage point of Gibbs Hill Lighthouse in Warwick Parish, you can gaze down over a flotilla of tiny islands, where even the most

clockwise from left: harbour-front houses at Flatt’s Inlet; volcanic rock formations at Warwick Long Bay; waterfront mansions; Gibbs Hill Lighthouse; coastal villas at Somerset Village. photography: nick smith

travel

Every local bar has its own version of the island’s signature drink and you won’t be able to avoid it becoming part of your daily diet – so best not to try. The eponymous mid-17th century Swizzle Inn, is where aficionados of the tipple gather, but for the best sandwich you need to head to Woody’s in Somerset Village, where the dish is delivered wrapped in plain paper through a hatch. The queues are long, but this Bermudian staple is good, and it’s properly consumed as a takeaway with hot sauce on board a yacht sailing around the bay. It’s tempting to think that the America’s Cup put this remote British outpost on the map, but it’s worth remembering that 400 years ago Shakespeare wrote Bermuda into his last great play, The Tempest. The Bard based his tropical tale of shipwrecked magic on the 1609 sinking of the Sea Venture off Bermuda that made headlines all over Jacobean London. Of course, Sir Ben and his crew will be hoping for a rather different outcome in May.

modest of green, orange or pale blue pastel, white-roofed mansions is going to cost you north of ten million dollars. To the east of the Sound, in the picturesque town of Hamilton, is Bermuda’s finest hotel, the Hamilton Princess. Its distinctive pink neocolonial architecture faces west into the sunset, looking over its own private harbour. Its lobby houses one of the most stellar private collections of modern art outside New York or London. It’s easy to wander off to take in Andy Warhol’s screen prints of Queen Elizabeth II, Banksy’s Girl with Balloon, Jeff Koons’ Monkey or one of David Hockney’s swimming pool lithographs. For all its streamlined white-yacht luxury, Bermuda is also about eating and drinking, and the style here is ‘nothing fancy’. Although you can find fine dining in superb beach restaurants such as the organic Village Pantry, the real delicacy is a good old fried fish sandwich washed down with a ‘swizzle’ (the local version of rum punch).

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

NEED TO KNOW Bermuda Tourism Authority, gotobermuda.co.uk The Hamilton Princess Hotel is the official hotel for the America’s Cup, from $499, fairmont.com British Airways offers direct flights to Bermuda from Gatwick from £700 return, britishairways.com

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REGULARS

Remembering

S.J. Phillips WORDS: Hannah Lemon

right, sparkling diamond earrings hang in glass cases with handwritten descriptions. Rows upon rows of vintage brooches, studs, chokers, pendants and rings lie on rich green velvet upholstery. Skilled assistants stand to attention, ready to show customers fine jewellery or exquisite silverware displayed in the dark wood cabinets. S.J. Phillips is a setting rarer than most – there are no modern plinths or price tags scattered boastfully around. The reason being, perhaps, is that the antique dealer has only moved address once in the past 140 years. Solomon Joel Phillips originally opened the shop in 1869 on Regent Street, moving to 113 Bond Street four years later, then to number 139 in 1966. The company has remained in the family and is now managed by his great-grandsons, Nicolas and Jonathan Norton, together with their cousin Francis. The previous generation of siblings, Martin and Richard Norton, took over the business in the aftermath of the Wall Street Crash. But as World War II broke out, selling vintage items was put on the back burner. Or so people thought. S.J. Phillips was in fact part of the top secret Operation

106

Mincemeat, a successful deception plan against the Nazis. In 1943, Captain Ewen Montagu, a naval officer who oversaw the running of double agents, came up with the idea of having a dead British soldier wash ashore off the coast of southern Spain as a decoy. The body held false information on plans for the invasion of Sardinia, as opposed to Sicily, where the real event would occur. Montagu manufactured an entire life history for the mythical serviceman, including a living fiancée. As part of the ploy, S.J. Phillips created an invoice for a diamond engagement ring, which was placed on the corpse alongside military papers and ‘plans’ for warfare. The war eventually ended and although the brothers didn’t return completely unscathed (Martin was invalided from the Royal Artillery and torpedoed in the midAtlantic), they were fortunate to survive and used peacetime as an opportunity to turn S.J. Phillips around. They succeeded. Over the past few decades, the company has acquired items for the British Museum, the Royal Family, as well as nearly the entire Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection for the Victoria and Albert Museum. But as is with most businesses, success involves change. The company is moving to a more discreet location on the second floor of 26 Bruton Street. Once a Mayfair resident, always a Mayfair resident. 26 Bruton Street, W1, sjphillips.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

from top: The interior of the original S.J. Phillips shop at 139 New Bond Street, Credit: Karen Bengall at AC Cooper; An 18th-century chrysolite floral spray brooch, Portuguese, c.1760

MAYFAIR

Mayfair estate agents Beauchamp Estates 24 Curzon Street, W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722 beauchamp.com

carter jonas

Dexters 66 Grosvenor Street W1K 3JL 020 7590 9590 (sales) 020 7590 9595 (lettings) dexters.co.uk

London, Mayfair and St James’s 127 Mount Street W1K 3NT 020 7493 0676

London, Hyde Park and Bayswater 44 Connaught Street W2 2AA 020 7402 1552 (sales) 020 7371 3377 (lettings)

London, Marylebone and Regent’s Park 37 New Cavendish Street W1G 9TL 020 7486 8866 carterjonas.co.uk

Hyde Park

Marylebone and Fitzrovia

1 Craven Terrace W2 3QD 020 7871 5060 (sales) 020 7871 5070 (lettings)

22 Devonshire Street W1G 6PF 020 3527 0400

Sloane Street Marylebone 55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 (sales) knightfrank.co.uk

139 Sloane Street SW1X 9AY 020 7730 0822 savills.co.uk

Harrods Estates

Knightsbridge 82 Brompton Road SW3 1ER 020 7225 6506

Mayfair 61 Park Lane W1K 1QF 020 7409 9001 harrodsestates.com

Pastor Real Estate Ltd 11 Curzon Street W1J 5HJ 020 3879 8989 (sales)

Sotheby’s international realty 77-79 Ebury Street SW1W 0NZ 020 7495 9580 sothebysrealty.co.uk

48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (lettings) pastor-realestate.com

Strutt & Parker ChestertonS

Mayfair

47 South Audley Street W1K 2QA 020 7629 4513 (sales) 020 7288 8301 (lettings)

London Head Office John taylor 48 Berkeley Square W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888 john-taylor.com

Rokstone 5 Dorset Street W1U 6QJ 020 7580 2030 rokstone.com

13 Hill Street W1J 5LQ 020 7629 7282

Knightsbridge 66 Sloane Street SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 struttandparker.com

Westminster and Pimlico 10 Gillingham Street SW1V 1HJ 020 3411 8386 (sales) chestertons.com Knight Frank

Crayson 10 Lambton Place W11 2SH 020 7221 1117 crayson.com

Mayfair

Savills

120a Mount Street W1K 3NN 020 7499 1012 (sales and lettings)

Mayfair and St James’s 36 North Audley Street W1K 6ZJ 020 7578 5100 (sales and lettings)

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

Wetherell 102 Mount Street W1K 2TH 020 7493 6935 wetherell.co.uk

MAYFAIR £3750 per ft² MAYFAIRTATE £3750£1 perper ft² ft² CADOGAN CADOGAN TATE £1 per ft²

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showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Coast

to coast

Finding the perfect home, from Mayfair to Manhattan

image courtesy of leslie j. garfield

CONNECTED In the current climate, there has never been a more important time to have an agent with a global database of buyers. With our network of offices across London, the UK and further afield, we are well placed to find you the perfect purchaser.

SOLD South Audley Street, Mayfair Guide price: £10,750,000 Sold to a buyer registered with the Kensington office for a record price

UNDER OFFER Carlyle Square, Chelsea Guide price: £17,350,000

SOLD

Onslow Gardens, South Kensington Guide price: £3,250,000 Sold to a buyer registered with the Chelsea office on the first viewing

SOLD

Cadogan Lane, Knightsbridge Guide price: £3,950,000 Sold to a buyer registered with the Belgravia office

UNDER OFFER

Ebury Square, Belgravia Guide price: £3,950,000

Buckingham Palace Road, Victoria Guide price: £2,350,000

Under offer with a buyer registered with the Knightsbridge office

Sold to a buyer registered with the Knightsbridge office

Under offer with a buyer registered with the Dubai office

mayfair@knightfrank.com +44 (0) 20 3641 6231

southkensington@knightfrank.com +44 (0) 20 3544 0620

knightsbridge@knightfrank.com +44 (0) 20 3463 0355

chelsea@knightfrank.com +44 (0) 20 3463 2651

belgravia@knightfrank.com +44 (0) 20 3544 0132

victoriasales@knightfrank.com +44 (0) 20 3544 0622

@KnightFrank

344969_MayfairTimes_KF_March17.indd 1

KnightFrank.co.uk

09/02/2017 10:31

Savoy Court, Covent Garden WC2 Two bedroom apartment within a secure, private block A sleek two bedroom apartment located within the prestigious Savoy Apartments, benefiting from acess to the Savoy Hotel and the opportunity to use its 5* facilities including fitness centre, concierge and housekeeping services. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, reception room, kitchen, laundry room, lift. EPC: C. Approximately 109 sq m (1,169 sq ft). Leasehold

Guide price: £2,380,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/WER170012

10:31

MM March - Savoy

09/02/2017 09:40:25

Beau House, 102 Jermyn Street, St James's SW1 A boutique development in the heart of London's luxury quarter Dukelease presents a rare opportunity to live on this historic London street. Introducing Beau House, a boutique development of seven elegant apartments and a bespoke penthouse designed in collaboration with Oliver Burns. Apartments from approximately 61 sq m (657 sq ft) - 268 sq m (2,885 sq ft). Leasehold approximately 999 years remaining

Prices from £1,900,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/mayfair mayfair@knightfrank.com 020 8166 7484

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/WER160199

MM March - Beau House

09/02/2017 12:52:10

Lancaster Mews, Hyde Park W2 Stylish four bedroom mews house with garage and private courtyard An elegant, newly refurbished freehold home, finished in a contemporary style and to a high specification. Arranged across four storeys, the property offers a wealth of light and spacious accommodation and is located within a pretty cobbled mews moments from Hyde Park. 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 2 reception rooms, dining room, kitchen, utility, 2 guest cloakrooms, courtyard, garage. EPC: E. Approximately 269 sq m (2,892 sq ft).

KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140

Freehold

Guide price: £3,850,000

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/HPE160043

Mayfair Mag March 2017 - Lancaster Mews

09/02/2017 10:35:52

FOUND. Your perfect tenant. Let with Knight Frank. Call us today to arrange your free market appraisal: KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings hydeparklettings@knightfrank.com 020 3641 1708 KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings marylebonelettings@knightfrank.com 020 3641 5853

Guide price: £1,450 per week

Connaught Street, Hyde Park W2

-->

A refurbished 4 double bedroom upper maisonette with wood flooring, high ceilings and balcony located in the heart of Connaught Village. 4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, reception room and separate kitchen. EPC:D. Approximately 136 sq m (1,465 sq ft). hydeparklettings@knightfrank.com Office: 0 2 0 3 6 4 1 1 7 0 8

All potential tenants should be advised that as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

Guide price: £1,250 per week

Upper Wimpole Street, Marylebone W1 A beautifully designed one bedroom apartment located on the ground floor of a Georgian town house and interior designed throughout. Bedroom, bathroom, reception room, dining room and kitchen. EPC: E. Approximately 84 sq m (904 sq ft). marylebonelettings@knightfrank.com Office: 0 2 0 3 6 4 1 5 8 5 3

Mayfair Mag 08.02

09/02/2017 11:07:23

property

market

insight Key influencers Partner and head of Knight Frank Mayfair, Harvey Cyzer, reports on the highs and lows of the global property market

t seems like an appropriate moment to examine how close the links are between house prices, the United Kingdom’s decision to leave the European Union and the new US President. Knight Frank’s prime central London index recorded a 6.3 per cent decline in 2016. Two hikes in stamp duty since December 2014 have slowed transaction levels, which have started to stabilise as vendors reduce asking prices. Knight Frank transactions in the last quarter of 2016 were higher than the same period in 2015 and 2014. However, there are other factors behind this slowdown. First, the market has paused for breath following an exceptional period of growth between 2009 and 2012. Second, ultra-low interest rates mean more homeowners are able to sit tight, reducing turnover of properties. Some buyers and sellers will hold off for the triggering of Article 50; however for every person waiting, there will be somebody impatient to move. Similarly, while transaction volumes were relatively weak last summer, the referendum was only part of the story. The lull followed one of the biggest spikes on record in March 2016, ahead of a stamp duty hike in April. The influence of Brexit cannot be discounted, but its impact is dwarfed by other factors. However, it has had an effect in other ways. Sterling has weakened since the referendum,

strengthening the buying power of those based overseas. A US buyer moving to London would benefit from an effective discount of 22 per cent in the year to December 2016 given currency and house price movements. Despite this statistic, a section of buyers are waiting for the exchange rate to ‘bottom out’, and this is where Donald Trump comes in. His ideological support for Brexit will inevitably have some bearing on the wider process, but a more direct effect on prime central London would be if the dollar weakened as part of any drive to stimulate US trade. It could reverse any currency discount and underlines how the waiting game is a high-risk strategy given the volatile political backdrop. Two other points are worth bearing in mind. First, any future trade deals may strengthen demand from other countries. Second, London’s appeal as a safe-haven market could rise if global geopolitical uncertainty persists. To date, the impact of Brexit – and Trump – has been even smaller in the rest of the UK, where a multi-speed recovery is underway. Urban markets in particular have fared better, depending on their local economy.

Some buyers and sellers will hold off for Article 50. But for every person waiting, there will be somebody impatient to move

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Knight Frank Mayfair, 120a Mount Street, W1K, 020 7499 1012, knightfrank.co.uk

115

property

Property news PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London

This image and below: Photography: Dirk Lindner, courtesy of Eric Parry Architects

Going modular

An architectural address Lutyens mansion sold in St James’s Square

rare slice of super-prime residential on St James’s Square has been snapped up by a Hong Kong investor as part of a £246 m mega-deal with the office building next door. The 30,000 sq ft mansion at No.7, designed in 1910/11 by the great Sir Edwin Lutyens, has reportedly been sold off alongside the high-earning block at No.8. Irish development and investment firm Green Property confirmed the sale of the assets – the prestigious offices have fetched some of the highest rents in the area and house tenants including French bank Société Générale and art dealer Helly Nahmad Gallery – adding that the sale “highlights the resilience of very prime London properties in a post-referendum environment”. Most of the talk has surrounded the office element, but the Grade II-listed mansion is perhaps the most interesting aspect.

PrimeQResi

Back in 2011, when plans first surfaced for No.7’s return to a single residence, Bloomberg put the potential end value in the £50m region, following a £14m redevelopment spend. Formation Architects worked with Martin Kemp Design on the ambitious designs, which have incorporated ultra-grand reception rooms, nine bedrooms, a garden, swimming pool, spa and parking, and there’s plenty of history, too – a memorial epigraph to Lutyens confirms this as the place where the designs for New Delhi were drawn up.

Native Land leads the way at Burlington Gate As the government announces plans to promote “modular” construction methods – where sections of new buildings are built off-site – property developer Native Land has flagged that it used just such elements at its super-prime project in Mayfair. Burlington Gate, designed by architects Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, replaces a 83,000 sq ft commercial building with 42 new apartments alongside gallery space. It’s centred around the first new arcade in Mayfair since 1930, connecting Old Burlington Street with Cork Street. All Burlington Gate’s new residences are powered by an “intelligent” system to run heating, ventilation, cooling and lighting. Long-term benefits include better environmental performance and ease of maintenance.

Burlington Gate construction, courtesy of Native Land

primeresi.com

Journal of Luxury Property

116

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Introducing One Seymour Street, a spectacular collection of new 1, 2 and 3 bed apartments in Marylebone

COMPLETION Q2 2018 REG I S T ER YO U R IN T ERE S T ONE SE YMOURS TREE T@KNIG HTFR ANK .COM 020 7971 7635 O N E S E Y M O U R S T R E E T. C O M

www.pastor-realestate.com

FOR SALE PROPERTIES CHESTERFIELD HOUSE, MAYFAIR, W1J

£1,695,000

Brand newly refurbished 1 bedroom 1st floor apartment set within a purpose built block with lift and 24 hour porter. Features include: original fireplace with elegant parquet flooring, 1940’s antique crystal chandelier and a bespoke kitchen with integrated Siemens appliances. The double bedroom boasts ample storage space with oak wardrobes and LED lighting. Leasehold plus Share of Freehold.

Simon Green E sales@pastor-realestate.com T +44 (0)20 3879 8989

FOR SALE PROPERTIES CURZON STREET, MAYFAIR, W1J

£1,375,000

This 2 bedroom 4th floor apartment with lift is ideally positioned to benefit from all that Mayfair has to offer. Extending to 739 sq ft (69 sq m) the accommodation comprises: entrance hall, reception room with dining area, master bedroom with en-suite bathroom, second bedroom, shower room and separate fully fitted kitchen. Leasehold.

FURTHER DETAILS :

Simon Green E sales@pastor-realestate.com T +44 (0)20 3879 8989

PASTOR REAL REAL ESTATE ESTATE11 11CURZON CURZONSTREET, STREET,LONDON, LONDON,W1J W1J5HJ 5HJ •• TT+44 +44(0)20 (0)203879 38798989 8989 FF+44 +44(0)20 (0)203195 31959596 9596 PASTOR MAYFAIR MAG_FEV17.indd 2

10/02/2017 17:28

MAY

TO LET ONE KENSINGTON GARDENS W8 Outstanding two bedroom duplex apartment set within the landmark One Kensington Gardens development, where residents enjoy a 24-hour dedicated concierge, valet parking, health spa including; 25m indoor pool and private health/fitness centre. This meticulously designed property with high ceilings throughout, boasts magnificent marble tiled bathrooms, hi tech fitted kitchen, mood lighting, comfort cooling & underfloor heating. 2 Double Bedrooms | 2 Bathrooms | Reception Room | Kitchen/Dining | Private Patio Guest Cloakroom | Utility Room

£2,200 per week - Furnished FURTHER DETAILS :

Spencer Taffurelli E lettings@pastor-realestate.com T +44 (0)20 3195 9595

PASTORREAL REALESTATE ESTATE4848CURZON CURZONSTREET, STREET,LONDON, LONDON,W1J W1J7UL 7UL • • T T+44 +44(0)20 (0)203195 31959595 9595 F F+44 +44(0)20 (0)203195 31959596 9596 PASTOR 17:28

MAYFAIR MAG_FEV17.indd 3

10/02/2017 17:28

Pastor Real Estate 48 Curzon Street MAYFAIR W1J 7UL London

Pastor Real Estate 11 Curzon Street MAYFAIR W1J 5HJ London

T: +44 (0) 20 3195 9595 F: +44 (0) 20 3195 9596 E: contact@pastor-realestate.com

T: +44 (0) 20 3879 8989 F: +44 (0) 20 3195 9596 E: sales@pastor-realestate.com

Lettings Investment Architecture Consultancy Commercial Project Management Property Management

Sales

CMJ

www.pastor-realestate.com

Price: £2,975,000

Egerton Gardens, Knightsbridge SW3 A beautiful two bedroom flat situated on the second floor of a charming red brick terraced building in Egerton Gardens in the heart of Knightsbridge. This refurbished flat measures 1062 sqft (98.66 sqm) has a Share of Freehold and benefits from an abundance of natural light throughout and direct views over the Brompton Oratory. Of particular interest is the large reception room with high ceilings, a feature marble fireplace and an open plan Smallbone devizes kitchen complete with Miele appliances opening into the reception room, ideal for entertaining and modern day living. There are two well proportioned bedrooms at the rear of the property overlooking Egerton Gardens, a family bathroom and an en-suite bathroom to the master bedroom.

020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ enquiries@rokstone.com

»» »» »» »» »»

Share of Freehold 2 bedrooms 2 bathrooms Heart of Knightsbridge 1062 sqf (98.66 sqm)

Transatlantic teamwork Richard Pretsfelder and Matthew Lesser from Leslie J. Garfield, and Paul Finch from Beauchamp Estates muse on the New York and London markets, and talk to Camilla Apcar about their international affiliation

ew York City, it transpires, is not so unlike Mayfair – when it comes to the property market, at least. Leslie J. Garfield and London’s Beauchamp Estates are two agents with a transatlantic affiliation whose work on their home patches are not so different. “Last year in New York, the overall numbers were up [across the property market],” says Leslie J. Garfield partner Richard Pretsfelder. “A lot of that was driven by the very high-end condo sales.” It was a slightly different story for ultra-prime properties: “a slower year on average, with a lot of inventory and uncertainties surrounding the election… But since then – and I think it would have gone this way no matter who won, as there would have been some certainty – enquiries, offers and closings are picking up. “If we get all the tax cuts on income and capital gains for real estate developers that are being talked about… it’ll be a healthier year for the real estate market in New York.” Coming up to the election “there was a lot of inertia,” says Pretsfelder. “There were a lot of people looking and being very methodical, with extended decision-making and negotiations. People just didn’t know how things would play out.” It’s too early to tell the impact of Trump’s presidency, says Matthew Lesser, another Leslie J. Garfield partner, “but lower capital gains and income tax will clearly benefit our clientele, which will ultimately lead to more spending.” Leslie J. Garfield was founded in 1972. Its portfolio includes ambassadorial mansions, penthouses, family homes and condominiums, brownstone townhouses, with a particular specialism in the latter. “In the past three years, the Downtown market has been the more attractive neighbourhood,”

244 East 48th Street Rear Exterior

says Lesser. The price per square foot is higher than anywhere in New York City. Yet prices will continue to rise around Fifth and Madison, Central Park West and Columbus, towards the High Line and Gramercy Park, says Lesser. In Greenwich Village, average sales prices rose 29 per cent over the past year. “We have a pretty finite product.” There are no more real townhouses being built in New York City, and under 2,000 single-family homes.

property

We asked:

“In your area, which issues are most likely to dampen demand for ultra-prime properties?” NEW YORK Manhattan

london

Significant impact

No impact

The global economy the eu economy the uk economy the us economy uk vote to leave the eu/ brexit negotiations election of donald trump as us president exchange r ates high supply second-hand properties high supply new build properties cost of purchasing government policy taxes on wealthy individuals/property buyers think prices will decline FROM THE LATEST ULTRA PRIME BAROMETER REPORT

Most townhouses started as single-family homes, and through the Great Depression many were converted into multi-family homes. The trend is now largely reversing. Leslie J. Garfield also specialises in selling multiple dwellings to those looking to convert the space back into a singlefamily home – an increasingly popular proposition. A new subway line could well speed up a renewed interest in Uptown. There are three new stations between the 96th and the 63rd Street lines,

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

and it will eventually connect to the Broadway line and the rest of the New York subway system. This state of affairs sounds all too familiar. “I’m basically Rick [Richard Pretsfelder] with a different accent,” says Beauchamp sales manager Paul Finch. “There isn’t much difference between London and New York in that we have the same mix of townhouses and gentrification. The only thing is that here we’ve been hit a bit harder in taxation, and had uncertainty for a lot longer. But in the same way things started moving again in November. London is still a safe and desirable place to live.” There are about 40,000 units in planning or construction across prime central London, Finch calculates. There has also been a 90 per cent surge in property prices along the Jubilee line extension and Crossrail line, the report notes. As noted in this year’s Ultra Prime Barometer Report by authors including Beauchamp Estate and Leslie J. Garfield, due to the strength of the dollar against the pound, over the past year “London real estate became very attractive to dollar-based investors”. Over the past six months, enquiries from American buyers have risen ten per cent, and sales by three percent. A US dollar buyer purchasing a typical 3,900sq ft ultra-prime apartment in Mayfair now pays $18.5m, compared to $20.7m in 2015, it continues. The average price of an ultra-prime home in Manhattan is £21.5m, compared with £18.4m in Mayfair. The affiliation between Beauchamp and Leslie J. Garfield began in 2015. “What makes it go well is the effort we put into it,” says Pretsfelder. “We’ve been very focused on having an integrated partnership.” The two agents have transactions that they are working on together; but as boutique agencies, referrals take place on a personal level. While Leslie J. Garfield, who founded the company as a broker, amassed his property portfolio, he also brought together an enviable art collection. He will be donating a painting of the United States flag by Jasper Johns to the British Museum in March – another testament to the strength of alliances from across the pond. lesliegarfield.com, beauchamp.com

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A COLLECTION OF 7 APARTMENTS LOCATED IN ST JAMESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Oceanic House presents the rare opportunity to purchase a unique apartment at the heart of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West End, in an exclusive new development steeped in history. The imposing former White Star Line headquarters - the booking office of the glamorous Titanic ocean liner - has been sensitively redeveloped to provide six apartments and one two-storey penthouse for private sale.

Leasehold

Prices starting

Approx. 125 years

from

remaining

ÂŁ4,750,000

paul@beauchamp.com +44 (0)20 7499 7722

GROSVENOR CRESCENT BELGRAVIA SW1 AN ELEGANT 3 BEDROOM APARTMENT IN THE HEART OF BELGRAVIA Set within one of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prestigious locations this three bedroom apartment offers ample luxury living space finished to a high specification. The apartment benefits from direct lift access, 2 secure underground parking spaces and access to Belgrave Square Gardens. Accommodation: Entrance hall, drawing room, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, study/bar, guest cloakroom. Amenities: Lift, underground parking, 24-hour concierge.

£9,950 / week

No tenant fees

karolina@beauchamp.com +44 (0)20 7499 7722

www.beauchamp.com

24 Curzon Street, London W1J 7TF

+44 (0)20 7722 9793

Mayfair Showroom 66 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 3JL 28 offices in Central London and over 60 across London

Queen Anne’s Gate, SW1H £21,000,000

A magnificent five bedroom historic Queen Anne townhouse overlooking St James’s Park. Sumptuously refurbished with meticulous craftsmanship throughout, there are grand entertaining rooms, a spectacular master bedroom suite, spacious family living areas and a large private patio garden. Dexters Westminster 020 7590 9578

Bourdon Street, W1K £3,995,000

Located in the heart of Mayfair, a newly refurbished two double bedroom apartment. The property is Ideal for entertaining and has a large reception room with a modern open plan kitchen and two large west facing windows. There are two bathrooms, a lift and access to a roof garden, energy rating d. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590

dexters.co.uk

Harley Place, W1G £1,845 per week

A newly refurbished three bedroom mews house in the heart of Marylebone. The property has a large reception room and a separate kitchen/dining room, three bathrooms, a small terrace and a private garage. Further benefits include underfloor heating, a utility room and guest cloakroom, energy rating c. Dexters Marylebone 020 7224 5545

Draycott Place, SW3 £1,700 per week

A fantastic split level flat on the first and second floors of this beautiful red brick building. On the first floor is a large reception room and a separate eat in kitchen, on the second floor you will find three bedrooms and three bathrooms. The property also has direct lift access, energy rating d. Dexters Chelsea 020 7590 9500

dexters.co.uk

Tenants fees apply: £180 per tenancy towards administration, £60 reference fee per tenant and £144 towards the end of tenancy check out report (all inc VAT).

property

Property news PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London

Cooking up a storm Langan’s Maddox Street penthouse comes to the market

images courtesy of lawrie cornish

mazon Property and McLaren Construction Group have lifted the lid on their transformation of the former offices and studio of legendary restaurateur Peter Langan in Mayfair. One of the biggest names on the London restaurant scene in the 1970s and 1980s, Langan began his catering career at Odins restaurant on Devonshire Street in Marylebone, and went on to take the reins in 1973. Three years later, he launched Langan’s Brasserie on Stratton Street with business partner and movie legend Michael Caine. An instant success, it become a top celeb haunt, attracting the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Margaret, Marlon Brando, Mick Jagger and Jack Nicholson. By the mid-1980s the restaurant group was catering for 700 diners a day and Langan was involved in launching an outlet in Los Angeles.

His base throughout this time – the top floors of an Edwardian neo-Baroque building at 6-8 Maddox Street – has now been turned into 2,142 sq ft four-bed penthouse with two roof terraces and views towards Liberty. Inside, there will be Calacatta Michelangelo marble, Zodiaq stone and solid oak floors, full height custom-made doors, bespoke joinery, comfort cooling and underfloor heating. CBRE and Knight Frank are handling the sale, asking £5.25m.

Tailor made

PrimeQResi

beau house penthouse by oliver burns

Three-storey penthouse launches on Jermyn Street Dukelease has launched a series of apartments crowned by a three-storey penthouse designed by architectural interiors specialist Oliver Burns. Beau House, at 102 Jermyn Street (above men’s shirt-maker Charles Tyrwhitt), delivers eight apartments inspired by Regency trendsetter Beau Brummell. ‘The Brummell’ penthouse spans 4,000 sq ft in the upper echelons of St James’s. There are terraces with panoramic views across prime central London, including over the Sir Christopher Wren-designed church next door. Oliver Burns has taken Jermyn Street’s tailoring heritage as inspiration for the interiors, creating classically elegant grand spaces with details such as pinstriped walls and herringbone-patterned floors.

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Eaton Mews North, Belgravia, SW1X A light and spacious newly refurbished property with a glass atrium providing lots of natural light throughout the building. The property has an atrium to the lower ground floor and internal glass walls to each level. On the 1st floor there is the master bedroom suite with a large bathroom and a separate walk in wardrobe. Two further en suite bedrooms are on the top floor. The living and entertaining areas are open plan on the first and lower ground floors. A fabulous eat-in kitchen with Gaggenau appliances has a large central island with a marble top. What is surprising is that all floors have higher ceilings than would normally be expected in a Mews house. The property is fully air conditioned, and an iPad controlled lights and music throughout. The property has a good sized garage with internal access. EPC Rating C.

Guide Price: £6,950,000 fREehold

John Taylor UK 48 Berkeley Square, London W1J 5AX Tel: 020 3284 1888 Email: london@john-taylor.com

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www.john-taylor.com

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EXCLUSIVE LUXURY MAYFAIR APARTMENTS TO RENT

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A SELECTION OF ONE, TWO & THREE BEDS PRICES FROM £1,600 PER WEEK

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59-60 Grosvenor Street, Mayfair, W1K 3HZ 020 7408 5155 enquiries@residentialland.com

www.residentialland.com

PRIME CENTRAL LONDON’S LARGEST PRIVATE LANDLORD

A world famous view only a few will call home Discover London’s new riverfront address The Dumont is the centre-piece of Albert Embankment Plaza, London’s most prestigious new riverfront residents quarter. Soaring 30 storeys it affords unparalleled views over the most famous stretch of the River Thames and a lifestyle without equal. Facilities include ten-pin bowling, games room, cinema, 12th floor lounge, dining room and roof gardens. Along with a state-of-the-art gym, infinity pool, spa and 24-hour concierge service. A collection of suites, 1, 2 and 3 bedroom apartments with elegant interiors are available.

Prices from £595,000 Coming soon – to register your interest please call 020 3740 2695 or email dumont.london@stjames.co.uk To discover more visit www.thedumont.co.uk or the Marketing Suite at 21 Albert Embankment. Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm. Prices and details correct at time of going to press. Computer generated image is indicative only.

www.thedumont.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies

MAYFAIR’S FINEST

charles Street - £5,500,000

south audley Street - £5,000,000

south audley Street - £3,200,000

mount row - £3,250,000

Upper Grosvenor Street - £975,000

Queen Street - £5,200,000

bringing residential life back to mayfair

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Wet

NEW PROPERTIES

park Lane - £7,500 PW

Duke Street - £2,800 PW

Duke Street - £2,600 PW

park Lane - £2,200 PW

Wetherell have the finest selection of Mayfair properties for a fresh start to 2017

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7493 6935 E: mail@wetherell.co.uk

Charles Street - £900 PW

wetherell.co.uk

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell

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PROPERTY

Best foot forward Wetherell’s latest research sheds light on the habits of London’s wealthiest commuters – and how they are keeping in step

ayfair’s local residents are now outspending tourists, according to research conducted for Wetherell’s Mayfair’s Golden Decade report. But a staggering 65 per cent of London’s wealthiest office executives are also embracing a walk-to-work lifestyle by both living and working in the area, and 35 per cent can be at their desks by strolling less than 1.5 miles. Chief executive Peter Wetherell says: “Our research shows that for the economic health of Mayfair and the wider West End to be maintained into the future, it is extremely important that the area continues to have a balance of residential, commercial and retail development. “Between 1945 and 2000, Mayfair suffered from too much commercial provision and the residential market suffered as a result. In the last decade it has flourished.” This prospering commercial market can be attributed to the number of VIP offices in and around Curzon Street, Berkeley Square and Grosvenor Street in comparison to

30 Berkeley Square

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other central London areas. Mayfair has the largest number of hedge fund and wealth management premises in the capital: 16 in total, which is more than Marylebone, Knightsbridge and Covent Garden combined. The majority of these super-rich Westenders own a pied-à-terre, while the rest rent long-term. Forty-three per cent of Mayfair’s privately owned or rented households consist of young affluent singles or couples in their twenties or thirties, often working in the wealth management sector. “There are 160 new apartments currently under construction and another 410 residential units in the pipeline,” says Wetherell. “We welcome this development, but believe very strongly that it must be complemented by new office, retail and public realm provisions to maintain a delicate balance for Mayfair as the go-to district for not only living, but working and leisure as well – all within walking distance.”

Berkeley Square house

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For a copy of the Mayfair’s Golden Decade Report or for further information contact Wetherell, 102 Mount Street, W1K, 020 7529 5566, wetherell.co.uk

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

CHARLES STREET MAYFAIR W1 The Ultimate Mayfair Lateral Apartment. Three Bedrooms, Three Bathrooms and Grand Reception across 3,555 Sq Ft. Includes Garage & Staff Studio. Â£15,950,000 Share of Freehold

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7529 5566 E: sales@wetherell.co.uk

JSA: Knight Frank

wetherell.co.uk

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell

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