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CONTENTS September 2017 Regulars 10 Editor’s letter 12 Five minutes with... Savile Row shoe guru Tony Gaziano 14 Couture culture The worlds of fashion, film and art collide 56 Savoir faire The only way to take to Paris is in haute couture 99 Remembering Mayfair Bespoke is best at Denman & Goddard

20 38

30 38 46 52 66 74 90

74 Features 16 20 26 30

The Mayfair Awards 2017 We reveal this year’s judging panel, shortlist and how to vote From catwalk to cover Three celebratory books that chart the evolution of fashion design How to spend a million Camilla Apcar looks forward to Christie’s Audrey Hepburn auction Suited for service Kingsman star Taron Egerton talks to Frank Grice about finding fame

Saturday night fever Mhairi Graham discovers the jewels bringing the 1970s up to date Movers and shakers Mario Testino’s personal art collection goes on view Alice’s wonderland Ellen Millard steps into Alice Temperley’s world Sewing new seeds Author James Sherwood contemplates the future of Savile Row Meet the maker Design disrupter John Makepeace reflects on his legacy Welcome home Hannah Lemon finds a new level of relaxation on Jamaica’s north coast

35 Collection

49 Fashion

80 Health & beauty

86 Travel

42 Art

71 Interiors

84 Food & drink

100 Property

editor

From the S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 7 s iss u e 0 7 2

Editor Hannah Lemon

FASHION

Sewing new SeedS

Deputy Editor Camilla Apcar

What lies in the future of Mayfair’s most sartorial street? Author James Sherwood reflects on Savile Row’s inimitable combination of style and substance

Contributing Editor Lauren Romano

Savile Row’s historic tailoring firms must adapt or die, and take the long view

Jewellery Editor Mhairi Graham

fRoM top: houSe check clock, iMAge couRteSy of huntSMAn; dege & SkinneR bentley cAR coAt

Watch Editor Richard Brown Acting Assistant Editor Marianne Dick Editorial Intern Tori Berkowitz Senior Designer & Brand Consistency Laddawan Juhong Production Alice Ford Jamie Steele Hugo Wheatley General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood

Proudly published by

n the seven years since Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke was first published, the traditional bastions of formal dress have come under unprecedented attack. Hedge fund alphas abandoned the tie long before the House of Commons did in June this year. Britain’s young male royals have taken a far more self-consciously casual approach to public office. In the new world order, the billionaire masters of the universe who were once Savile Row stalwarts are now tech gurus such as Mark Zuckerberg, wearing grey T-shirts rather than chalk stripe suits. Savile Row’s historic tailoring firms have survived world wars, recessions and revolutions – both industrial and technological. They negotiated the 1960s Youthquake, Giorgio Armani’s 1980s soft tailoring and the dress down movement of the 1990s. But what, one wonders, will Henry Poole & Co, Gieves & Hawkes or Anderson & Sheppard make of the gender neutral lobby, mankles, top knots and tattoos that the Victorians would have paid a shilling to see at the circus? The answer is to adapt or die and, of course, take the long view that only companies that were trading during the Napoleonic Wars have the privilege of doing. In the same month that Henry Poole & Co – established in 1806 – celebrated chairman Angus Cundey’s 80th birthday, it produced two limited edition NMD trainers in

oppoSite: tiMothy eveReSt dinneR Suit, iMAge couRteSy of MunSteR/the Rake, 2009

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

“One [has] to sense the trend of history and precede it” Elsa Schiaparelli As London Fashion Week returns this month, it provides food for thought on how our fashion forebears have moulded our tastes. The legacies left by Elsa Schiaparelli, Ralph Lauren and Pierre Cardin continue to inspire (p.20) as does that of style icon Audrey Hepburn – her influential wardrobe is up for auction at Christie’s (p.26). Elsewhere Alice Temperley reflects on her career so far (p.52), Mario Testino rifles through his art archive (p.46) and actor Taron Egerton keeps the traditions of Mayfair tailors alive with his new film Kingsman: The Golden Circle (p.30). It has made us here at The Mayfair Magazine appreciate how local luxury businesses continue to balance heritage with progress. And there’s no better way to highlight these achievements than through the sixth instalment of The Mayfair Awards. Turn to page 16 to see this year’s list of nominees and how to vote for your favourites.

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Hannah Lemon Editor Follow us on Twitter @MayfairMagazine and Instagram @themayfairmagazine

On the

cover

Also published by

R u n w i l d M e d i a G ro u p

PHOTOGRAPHEr: Gilles-Marie Zimmermann at Angela de Bona; stylist: Mike Adler at Angela de Bona; MODEL Catrinel Marlon (wearing dior) at Next Model Management. turn to page 56 for the full story

luxurylondon.co.uk A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.

Regulars

5 minutes with...

The best suits in London are formal ones from Chittleborough & Morgan on Savile Row. They have a unique style, very cut in at the waist, with hard shoulders. My favourite shoes are a pair of our loafers. These shoes fit perfectly with the hem of a trouser. I always strive for a balance

We’re making a pair from

of not too much and not too little, both in design and life in general.

alligator skin wiped with 22ct liquid gold between the scales. It was a challenge to get it to a point where it doesn’t look overly vulgar.

I’m very into mindfulness, the concentration of not being too much in your head, not living in the past or the future. I box, play table tennis and go fishing locally around where I live in Northampton. I love going with my daughter.

tony gaziano

Ten years ago, I was working from a shed in the back garden, where I used to make half the shoes and send them on to Kettering for the other half to be made. Now we have a 8,000sq ft factory with 30 people. It’s been an incredible journey.

Creative director of Gaziano & Girling, the bespoke and made-to-order shoemaker on Savile Row

I like eating out at Sartoria at the moment, because it’s on the end of Savile Row. The aubergine parmigiana is delicious.

I’ve worked in and out of Mayfair for about 20 years. I like

I love Asian food and have been to

wandering around Bond Street and the arcades. They are like curiosity shops, especially the watch shops.

China Tang in The Dorchester a few times. It’s a beautiful hotel and I love to have a reason to visit.

I’m a sucker for watches, especially vintage ones. I have a Jaeger-LeCoultre and Garrard, but my favourite is a 1940s Omega that has a very Art Deco look. I love IWC, but what I would love next is an A. Lange & Söhne.

“I’m a sucker for watches, especially vintage ones”

My favourite place for a drink is the bar at Claridge’s, which has a really nice relaxed feel.

clockwise from top left: santa monica beach, image credit: shutterstock.com; tony gaziano; china tang at the dorchester; sartoria; gaziano & girling made-to-order monaco loafers; claridge’s bar; iwc Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘sharks’ watch

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Regulars from left: The Geological Society at Burlington House; burlington house entrance

Look into London

An Unexpected Friendship Judi Dench takes on the all-important role of Queen Victoria in Victoria and Abdul. The film follows her heart-warming friendship with Indian clerk Abdul Karim (‘the Munshi’), played by Ali Fazal. Based on a true story, director Stephen Frears captures the royal family’s controversy and issues of prejudice.

COUTURE CULTURE

In cinemas 15 September, victoriaandabdul.co.uk

make like matilda – and put your nose in a book. in celebration of roald dahl day, bookshop Peter Harrington will display its most valuable works, from a first-edition Charlie and the Chocolate Factory to a signed copy of James and the Giant Peach. 13 September, 43 Dover Street, W1S, peterharrington.co.uk

buy Design Kick back and relax with The New Craftsmen at the Common Parts Canteen for London Design Festival. As part of a collaboration with Sue Skeen to launch a new line of furniture of the same name, all week long you are invited to take a seat – and a refreshment – to exchange ideas or have a chat.

This month, Open House London celebrates 25 years of promoting the city’s architecture with entry to places that usually remain off-limits to the public. Visit The Beaumont hotel for a gander at Antony Gormley’s striking suite, followed by a tour of Burlington House, home to five Mayfair societies. Free, 16-17 September, various locations, openhouselondon.org.uk

it’s time to appreciate what London does best: rain. british jewellery brand boodles has reinvented its signature Raindance collection with a line of watches in 18-carat white and rose gold with Mother of Pearl dials and diamonds. from £22,500, 178 New Bond Street, W1S, boodles.com

Touch of Teal One glittery gala is on a mission to save more than 5,000 women a year. The Touch of Teal charity event is fundraising for five different beneficiaries that contribute to raising awareness and educating women about ovarian cancer. Enjoy champagne, extravagant prizes at auction and – the highlight of the evening – a fashion show modelled by ovarian cancer survivors or fighters, aged from 28 to 81.

From £143, 9 September, The May Fair Hotel, Stratton Street, W1J, eventbrite.co.uk

Free, 16-23 September, 34 North Row, W1K, thenewcraftsmen.com

photography by: imogen Lucas

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

the panel breakfast at the beaumont, thebeaumont.com all photography: sarel jansen

THE

MAYFAIR

promotion

Where do you order the best cocktail? Who do you trust to tailor your bespoke suit? The Mayfair Awards is back and it’s time to vote for the individuals and businesses that you think define Mayfair and St James’s. Choose the winners from the shortlist of nominees handpicked by our expert panel of judges

AWARDS 2017 s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

The judging panel

W Camilla apcar

Maya Binkin

Deputy editor, The Mayfair Magazine

on behalf of Charles Saumarez Smith CBE, chief executive of the Royal Academy of Arts

Bruce Dundas

Sarah FabergÉ

Chairman of The Bond Street Association and managing director of Buccellati

Director of special projects, Fabergé

elcome back to The Mayfair Awards. It’s hard to believe that this is the sixth year we have been celebrating the businesses – both large and small – in London’s most prestigious postcode. Since the last awards took place in October, our city has seen a wave of economic and political change. Some have been bashed by the current, but as former Mayfair resident Harry Gordon Selfridge once said: “The are no hard times for good ideas.” And so it seems this way for Mayfair. Restaurateurs have expanded their portfolios so locals can enjoy everything from Korean dishes to contemporary Nordic cuisine. Fashion empires as well as designers have taken to the parade of shops to launch new collections, designs and boutiques. While fresh modern voices abound, we cannot forget the hum of tradition that has always been present in Mayfair. Everything from tailoring, cobbling and winemaking to painting – there’s no doubt that culture and craftsmanship reign supreme. This year, with thanks to our headline sponsor Pastor Real Estate, we are hosting the awards at the Royal Academy of Arts. The famous institute has been at the heart of Mayfair and St James’s since it moved to Burlington House in 1867, seeing the likes of Sir Antony Gormley, Tracey Emin and David Hockney pass through its doors. Now it’s just down to you to cast your vote. Our expert panel spent the morning at The Beaumont hotel narrowing down nominees for 14 of the categories, with suggestions for Best Sustainability Initiative, the Local Hero Award and the Outstanding Contribution to Mayfair Award left open to you. We look forward to announcing the winners in November – make your vote count!

“There are no hard times for good ideas” - Harry Gordon Selfridge, former Mayfair resident Patrick Grant

David Lee

Creative director, Norton & Sons and E.Tautz

Head of sales, Pastor Real Estate

Hannah Lemon

Andrew Love

Editor, The Mayfair Magazine

Chairman of The Ritz Club and deputy chairman of The Ritz London

– Hannah Lemon, editor, The Mayfair Magazine themayfairawards.co.uk K athry n Sargent

K atie Thomas

Owner and founder of Kathryn Sargent

Director of communications for the Bond Street Association and Jermyn Street Association

promotion

vote

The 17 categories

for

Best exhibition at an art gallery ●Claude & François-Xavier Lalanne at Ben Brown Fine Arts ●Ed Ruscha: Extremes and In-betweens at Gagosian ●Eden/Simafra at Maddox Gallery ●Mat Collishaw: The Centrifugal Soul at Blain Southern ●Mike Kelley: Framed and Frame at Hauser & Wirth ●teamLab: Transcending Boundaries at Pace Best new retailer Berry Bros. & Rudd Chloé Connolly England Kat Florence Luisa Spagnoli Varana Best SPECIALIST BOUTIQUE E.B. Meyrowitz Floris London Holland & Holland Paxton & Whitfield Thomas Goode

Best Tailor ●Anderson & Sheppard ●Gieves & Hawkes Henry Poole & Co Kathryn Sargent Norton & Sons Richard Anderson Best Fashion Boutique Amanda Wakeley Chalayan Charlotte Olympia Christopher Kane Gucci Roksanda Best Hotel The Beaumont Brown’s Hotel The Connaught Claridge’s The Ritz London The Stafford London Best New Restaurant Aquavit London Ferdi Ginza Onodera Jamavar Jinjuu ●StreetXO

Turnbull & Asser Best HOMEWARE Asprey Carpenters Workshop Gallery Christian Liaigre Francis Sultana Linley The New Craftsmen Best WINDOW DISPLAY Fenwick Fortnum & Mason Hedonism Wines Louis Vuitton Mount Street Printers Mulberry

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Best Bar 45 Jermyn St. Cecconi’s Mayfair Dukes Bar Mr Fogg’s Residence Sartoria Sketch

Best Jeweller Annoushka

2017

Fabergé Jessica McCormack Richard Ogden Van Cleef & Arpels

online now

William & Son

themayfairawards.co.uk

Best Local Event

Voting closes on 29 September

E.Tautz 150th Anniversary Charity Exhibition● ●London Collections: Men, St James’s Show ●London Craft Week ●Mayfair Art Weekend The Mayfair Collective: The Women’s Space ●The Residents’ Society of

HEADLINE SPONSOR

Mayfair & St James’s Summer Garden Party Promoting Craftsmanship Award ●Bentley & Skinner

ASSOCIATE SPONSOR

Foster & Son James Purdey & Sons Ronald Phillips Royal Academy Schools Savile Row Bespoke Association PARTNERS Also vote online for: Best Sustainability Initiative

Best Private Members’ Club 5 Hertford Street 67 Pall Mall The Academicians’ Room at The Royal Academy of Arts The Arts Club Chess Club Harry’s Bar

Local Hero Award

Outstanding Contribution to Mayfair Award

FEATURE

From

catwalk to

cover

As international fashion houses celebrate landmark anniversaries with glossy new tomes, we pick out our favourite pages marking the evolution of design

WORDS : H a n n a h L e m o n

Opposite page: Silk jacquard dress with pleated flounces and satin belt, 1991 ©Laziz Hamani; Above: Models wearing sunglasses and vinyl necklaces from the Fall 1970 collection ©Archives Pierre Cardin

years of Pierre Cardin

The futurist of fashion, French visionary Pierre Cardin inspired a new silhouette for the female figure. Synonymous with the 1950s and 1960s retro look of those decades, Cardin played with form to create unusual geometric shapes: cocktail dresses with conical breasts and ‘bubbled’ hems. This guide to Cardin’s entire oeuvre goes to show that his quest for new creative expression is far from over.

pierre cardin w r i t t e n b y J e a n - Pa s c a l Hesse, foreword by Marisa Berenson. £130, published 1 september by assouline, assouline.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

years of Ralph Lauren

“Ralph conjures up all the things I most care about: the country, misty mornings, summer afternoons, great open spaces, cornfields, vegetable gardens, fireplaces, and Jack Russell terriers.” Audrey Hepburn opens this landmark tome with a complimentary foreword celebrating the life and work of the American clothing magnate. Lauren himself goes on to candidly commentate on how a childhood in the Bronx led to a fashion label that has lasted half a century.

Ralph Lauren: R e v i s e d a n d E x pa n d e d Anniversary Edition Written by Ralph Lauren, Foreword by Audrey Hepburn. £35, published 5 september by rizzoli, rizzoliusa.com

FEATURE

models: Valentina Zelyaeva, Andreea Diaconu, Anna Selezneva. photography: Carter Berg, 2013, Paris

“Personal style is about having a sense of yourself and of what you believe in, which is basically

self-confidence” – Ralph Lauren

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

FEATURE

years of Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli’s rebellious ideas for haute couture were born during the hard inter-war years, taking form from the avant-garde Surrealist scene. Conspiring with artisans, painters, sculptors and writers, the demure Italian figure worked with the likes of illustrator Marcel Vertès and flamboyant painters René Magritte and Salvador Dalí. Together, as Elsa decreed, they made fashion sense “the trend of history and precede it”. clockwise from above: model dressed in Schiaparelli in front of the Schiaparelli boutique, 1954; Illustration for the fragrance ‘Shocking’ by Marcel Vertès; Illustration for the fragrance ‘Sleeping’ by Marcel Vertès

S c h i a pa r e l l i a n d the Artists Written by Andre L e o n Tall e y, Suzy Menkes and Christian L ac r o i x . Published 3 Oc t o b e r b y rizzoli, £65, rizzoliusa.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

ADV SANTI&SANTI - PHOTO P.BRAMATI

PLACE VENDOME COLLECTION 2017 – DESIGN: VANILLE, HANDKNOTTED IN WOOL AND SILK RELIEF - 400X400 CM

LU XU R Y CU S T O M M A D E R U G S D ES IG NED IN IT A L Y LONDON • 62-64 BROOK STREET, MAYFAIR • +44 (0) 20 3887 4589

MILANO • VIA A. MANZONI, 45 • +39 02 8690570

How to

spend

a million

FEATURE

Twenty-four years after her death, Audrey Hepburn’s enduring appeal is set to be proven once more in an auction of her personal archive. Camilla Apcar speaks to the director of private collections at Christie’s about the late actress’s legacy

udrey Kathleen Hepburn, born in 1929 in Belgium, left Europe at the age of 22 to star in the Broadway adaption of Gigi. It all escalated from there. She took to Hollywood for Roman Holiday in 1953, and became the first actress to win an Academy Award, a BAFTA, a Tony Award and a Golden Globe in the same year. With wide eyes and sweeping brunette hair, she soon became a paragon of all that is chic. In September Christie’s will auction a collection of personal items that Hepburn had when she died in 1993, aged 63, from abdominal cancer at her home in Switzerland. Items from her wardrobe and professional photography and film archive will all go under the hammer. Estimates range from £100 to £80,000. The collection has stayed with her family for the past 24 years: some were exhibited, but most items remained in storage. “Often with memorabilia on the secondary market the proof of the value is always in proving the provenance,” says Adrian Hume-Sayer, director of private collections at Christie’s. “Obviously all these items have the most impeccable origin, and proving it is simple because it’s come directly from her family.” The actress’s two sons, Sean Hepburn (from her first marriage to American actor Mel Ferrer), and Luca Dotti (from her second to Italian psychiatrist Andrea Dotti), are joint owners of the collection. “They’ve already made their selection of what they would like to keep,” says Hume-Sayer. “It was a process they went through with the whole family, thinking about what they would like to pass on to future generations.” The lots are wide-ranging – sometimes seemingly random – but all reveal something about the personal life of one of the

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

from top: Burberry trench coat from hepburn’s personal collection, 1980s, estimate £6,000-£8,000; GIVENCHY COCKTAIL GOWN from hepburn’s personal collection, 1966/1967, Estimate £10,000-£15,000 opposite page: STEVEN MEISEL, Audrey Hepburn, Vanity Fair, 1991, Estimate £2,000-£3,000

20th century’s most beloved stars. There will be a pair of cream dial telephones from that same home in Switzerland (estimate £800-£1,200); a film camera Hepburn used for making her own films (estimate £2,000-£3,000); portraits by Cecil Beaton (estimates POA); and an Italian gold powder compact with the initials AHF enamelled on top, from her first marriage (estimate £2,000-£3,000). As far as Hepburn’s time on screen is concerned, “she doesn’t seem to have been hugely sentimental”, according to Hume-Sayer. “Certainly not on the scale of Elizabeth Taylor for example, who kept a massive amount of film props and things to do with her career. The things that Hepburn did keep were obviously really special to her.” Among them is a gold lighter given to her by Gene Allen, the art director of My Fair Lady, who won an Oscar

With wide eyes and sweeping brunette hair, Hepburn soon became a paragon of all that is chic for the film’s production and design (estimate £3,000-£5,000) – and a few particularly noteworthy sheets of paper. A letter from Truman Capote relays his feelings about Hepburn being chosen to play his leading lady Holly Golightly (estimate £4,000-£6,000). “I believe it was widely reported that he was not very happy she had been selected, because really he wanted Marilyn [Monroe],” says Hume-Sayer. “So it’s quite interesting that there’s this letter sort of enthusing about her selection.” With an estimate of £60,000 to £80,000, the headline lot is Hepburn’s script for Breakfast at

“Hepburn’s

look is as fresh now

as it ever was”

FEATURE

Tiffany’s, marked with turquoise ink – her favourite. “You can see where she’d enunciate certain words and where the emphasis in the sentence was going to land,” says Hume-Sayer. “Having read a page of it, when you watch the film it suddenly all makes sense. Like the scene where she’s calling the cat a slob. She really emphasises the words ‘cat’ and ‘slob’, and underlined them completely in turquoise.” Hepburn’s enduring appeal is, in part, due to her innate sense of style. “Her look is almost as fresh now as it ever was,” says Hume-Sayer. “I’ve noticed that people look at the clothes in the warehouse and say, ‘Oh I would wear that now.’” The actress once described her obsession with clothes as bordering on a vice, and her elegant silhouette was developed in large part by Hubert de Givenchy. Their close relationship began after he was hired – at Hepburn’s suggestion – to design her wardrobe for Sabrina. It was Hepburn’s second Hollywood job, the success of which made her the highest-paid actress in the world, when she was offered $350,000 for her next role. Givenchy went on to design many other costumes, including for Funny Face and Breakfast at Tiffany’s, but the pair’s friendship went well beyond the realms of fashion. When she was not well enough to travel by commercial plane in her final days, Givenchy arranged for a private jet, full of flowers, to take Hepburn home for the last time to Switzerland. A number of pieces by Givenchy, including a blue satin fringed cocktail dress used to promote the 1967 film Two for the Road, will be in the sale (estimate £10,000-£15,000). Missing, however, is the simple black Breakfast at Tiffany’s dress. Christie’s auctioned it in 2006 for £456,200, surpassing its high estimate of £70,000 and setting a new world record for a lot associated with the actress. Other lots, like a selection of ballet pumps (from £1,500), are from her day-to-day wardrobe. “Even though most are not great ball gowns,

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

from top: TWO CREAM CLASSIC DIAL TELEPHONES FROM HEPBURN’S SWISS HOME, 1960s, Estimate £800-£1,200; BUD FRAKER, Audrey Hepburn, 1956, Estimate £500-£800; Hepburn’s working script for Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961, Estimate £60,000-£80,000; CIGARETTE LIGHTER from gene allen, 1963, Estimate £3,000-£5,000 opposite page: BUD FRAKER, Audrey Hepburn, 1956, Estimate £1,000-£2,000 all ©Christie’s Images Limited 2017

when you go along the rails of clothes, you can almost take anything off and it’s somehow chic,” says Hume-Sayer. Unsurprisingly, interest in the sale is high. Before the catalogue was printed, more than 500 copies were already sold, which, he continues, “is pretty unheard of. These are numbers that we just don’t see.” Even today, Audrey is set to make more waves. On view 23-26 September, and for sale 27 September, 8 King Street, SW1Y; online bidding from 19 September, christies.com

Suited for

service As he gears up to appear in the next instalment of the spy franchise, Kingsman: The Golden Circle, Taron Egerton is fully aware of the fleeting impact a star can have in Hollywood – and is determined to keep a level head. Frank Grice reports

aron Egerton has found fame in a remarkably short time. Four years ago, he was an aspiring actor hoping to land any role he could. Little did he know that he would be plucked out of obscurity to co-star in Kingsman: The Secret Service, a big budget British spy parody directed by Matthew Vaughn. Suddenly, the baby-faced Welshman not only found himself on a film set for the first time in his life, but was also rubbing shoulders with Colin Firth, Michael Caine and Samuel L. Jackson. “Colin took me under his wing from the beginning and made me feel much more relaxed and less intimidated,” Egerton recalls. It was the kind of instant breakthrough that few actors ever experience, and came with the added bonus of becoming a key member of a new film franchise. This month, Egerton returns to the role of Gary ‘Eggsy’ Unwin in Kingsman: The Golden Circle, the highly anticipated sequel that promises more over-the-top action sequences and comic mayhem. As the working-class schoolboy who joins the ranks of gentlemen secret agents, Eggsy’s journey mimics that of Egerton himself. Born in Birkenhead to Liverpudlian parents, Egerton was only two when his parents divorced and he moved to Wales with his mother. He would spend his formative years in the Anglesey village of Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrob-

wllllantysiliogogogoch, LlanfairPG for short, a name that has baffled numerous talk show hosts. Egerton first fell in love with films as a young boy who harboured “a ridiculous dream” to work as an animator: “I’ve always loved film, and it started with Pixar movies. I used to sculpt a bit as a kid. There’s something about creating those characters that morphed into acting when I was about 15.” This was when he joined a local theatre company in Aberystwyth and made his stage debut as Flute in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, a role that called for him to dress as a woman. “I was given this part, and the teenage angst in me manifested as anger, fear and real frustration about doing it. And then I did it. I got into that fruity little cocktail dress and I just remember the audience laughing their heads off. I remember thinking: ‘This is what I’m doing for the rest of my life. This is it.’” His talent was such that he earned a place at the prestigious Royal Academy of Dramatic Art, which led to several noteworthy stage roles. It set the ball rolling for numerous auditions, one of which was for Kingsman. “I can’t believe I had to wait as long as I did,” Egerton laughs. “I remember my first conversations with Matthew when he offered me the part and one thing he said really stood out to me: ‘I’m going to own you for six years.’ Really? Really? He was onto something. And I’m positively giddy that he owns me. I am happily his property.”

Little did Egerton know that he would be plucked out of obscurity to star in a big budget British franchise

INTERVIEW

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

egerton as eggsy in the first instalment of kingsman

The 27-year-old actor adds: “Matthew was supportive of me from the beginning. He told me: ‘I picked you because I know you can do this. My arse is on the line too, I wouldn’t have risked this if I felt you couldn’t handle it.’ That helped a lot. I had to keep reminding myself to enjoy it. It’s full on, it’s frightening and overwhelming and then you think, ‘C’mon, get it together, this is winning the lottery, enjoy it.’” Egerton has been on a lucky streak ever since. Roles in Legend, the Kray brothers biopic starring Tom Hardy; and Eddie the Eagle, the story of England’s beloved Olympic underdog ski jumper, followed in quick succession. Next year, Egerton dons the green tights of yet another legendary Englishman – Robin Hood – in the latest screen adaptation of the classic medieval tale that co-stars Jamie Dornan and Jamie Foxx. While sudden success on this scale often distorts the reality field of even the most levelheaded young actors, Egerton remains as stubbornly naïve as he is humble. “I still feel like an imposter. I still feel like someone’s going to tap me on the shoulder and say, ‘We actually wanted Jack O’Connell [who also auditioned for the part of Eggsy] for this role. There’s been some sort of mistake! But I’m very grateful. [Kingsman] has put me on the map – or so I’m told...” In the sequel, Eggsy, Merlin (Mark Strong) and Roxy (Sophie Cookson) find themselves in a battle for survival after their London Kingsman headquarters is blown up by a nefarious criminal mastermind (Julianne Moore). In addition to Moore, other new cast members include Channing Tatum, Halle Berry and Elton John, while Colin Firth may well return to action despite his character

Harry Hart being shot dead in the previous film. For his part, Egerton was thrilled to back. “It’s been like coming home, it was all the same crew. Like being back with the same family. The big difference this time around was the egerton in kingsman: the golden circle pressure. Because the first film did so well, expectations are much higher.” Apart from securing his future as an actor, Kingsman has had the added benefit of turning Egerton into a bona fide clothes horse. Not only did Eggsy have to undergo rigorous

The Huntsman shop is the source of director

egerton with colin firth in the first instalment of kingsman

INTERVIEW

training in weaponry and espionage, he also had to develop an appreciation for bespoke suits – the modern man’s armour. After all, the Kingsman Secret Service Headquarters are hidden behind the storefront of London’s venerable Huntsman tailoring shop on Savile Row, which has long provided sartorial services to British aristocrats and other affluent customers with a taste for the finer things in life. The Huntsman shop is also the source of much of Vaughn’s inspiration for Kingsman, having first visited the shop when he turned 18, when his mother gave him his first tailor-made suit. While Eggsy’s Pygmalion-like transformation saw him adopt the look of a sharply dressed spy, Egerton’s personal style remains laidback. “I still have one Kingsman suit that I wore to the film’s premiere, but my own personal style is a little less polished. I certainly feel more confident in

egerton with colin firth in the first instalment of kingsman

Matthew Vaughn’s inspiration for Kingsman

channing tatum and halle berry in kingsman: the golden circle

a suit – it makes you feel more protected and capable – but it’s not much good for relaxing in front of the television.” Not that Egerton has had much time to laze about at home these days. “My life has changed massively,” he admits. “I’m living in hotels and I’m never in one place very long. It’s great. I meet an enormous number of incredible people all the time, people I find very inspiring, and I’m very busy.” Thanks to Savile Row tailoring he will never be short of admirers. “Bizarrely, the only time I’m recognised is when I’m in a suit.” Kingsman: The Golden Circle is released in cinemas on 20 September

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collection

Like a moth to a flame

We’re all aflutter for Astley Clarke’s new Phototaxis collection by creative director Dominic Jones. Fronted by Georgia May Jagger, the pieces reimagine British moths as covetable fine jewellery. From £325, astleyclarke.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Crimson Speckled Moth Drop Earrings, £1,600; Speckled Magpie Moth Pendant, £2,700

COLLECTION

For its latest campaign, Middle Eastern fine jeweller W. Salamoon & Sons has enlisted the help of Natacha Tannous, the former executive director of Goldman Sachs. Tannous showcases the brand’s new collection of glittering floral pieces, handcrafted in rose gold. POA, wsalamoon.com

Ethical emeralds

Floral

fancies

William & Son has collaborated with Gemfields on MYA, its first haute joaillerie collection. Short for ‘Million Years Ago’, it honours the age and rarity of certain gemstones, and was created with responsibly sourced, vivid Zambian emeralds for a head-turning finish. POA, williamandson.com

At one with nature Botanical-inspired shapes are cast in polished gold for Shaun Leane’s Entwined Petal collection of unconventional bridal jewellery. Sculptural weddings bands are complemented by ear cuffs, stacking bangles and cocktail rings with avant-garde appeal. From £900, shaunleane.com

Dior’s New Diamonds

Touch wood for luck Annoushka Ducas’ new collection is inspired by the centuries-old tradition of knocking on wood for luck. Wooden church spires, recalled from her childhood in Moscow, are reimagined as lucky charms in ebony and 18-carat gold. Each talismanic treasure twinkles with good fortune. From £595, annoushka.com

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This month, wander down the garden path with Dior, whose new high jewellery collection takes its cue from the Palace of Versailles’s ornamental gardens. Encrusted with multi-coloured stones and sprinkled with diamonds, the pieces call to mind lush flower beds. POA, dior.com

Chaumet Est Une FĂŞte high jewellery collection, POA, chaumet.com

Saturday

Night Fever Embrace the high glamour and carefree elegance of the Studio 54 era words: Mhairi Graham

COLLECTION

his season, fashion designers continue to mine the 1970s for inspiration – looking to the hedonistic, hazy time of disco, in all its glitzy exuberance and bohemian splendour. High glamour prevails, as sequins, silver frills and dramatic flared silhouettes populate A/W17 collections from the likes of Saint Laurent, Balmain and Dolce & Gabbana. A piece of statement jewellery is a versatile, modern way to effortlessly embrace the decadence of disco this season, be it by slipping on a swishing set of chandelier earrings, or updating eveningwear with a swinging pendant necklace or showpiece cuff. These sparkling power pieces create instant allure, whether paired with cashmere or a cocktail dress. Step forward Jessica McCormack’s new collection, which takes its cue from the fabled glamour of the Studio 54 era. Coined Trip the Light Fantastic, wing-shaped ear climbers and lustrous fringes evoke a 1970s aesthetic – all crafted in polished yellow gold with glittering white diamonds. “I wanted the collection to be high-glamour but with a subtle sensibility,” says McCormack. “Pieces that could easily work with your everyday wardrobe and which moved in harmony with the body, like they are dancing.” Make like Elizabeth Taylor and decorate your décolletage with weighty sautoirs and neckclinching chokers, with options ranging from Chaumet’s dramatic new high jewellery collection to Messika’s multi-fringed showstopper, which offers all the sparkle of a disco ball. Pippa Small’s Turquoise Mountain diffusion line glimmers with oversized gold cuffs, tasselled necklaces and cascading earrings that would be right at home on the dancefloor at Studio 54. “I grew up during that era and remember the glamour surrounding the fashions of the time,” says Small. “People like Paloma Picasso and Lauren Hutton, who were so timeless in their style. I love the bold statement that this sort of jewellery creates.” Earrings are big this season, figuratively and literally, dropping and dangling from every nook and crook. Amrapali offers seductive, 1970s-inspired swirls while diamonds go disco at Diane Kordas, dotted on hoops and geometric

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

designs. Continue the ear trend with Suzanne Kalan’s elegant drop designs, strung with shimmering chains. Seventies stalwarts like Bulgari continue to hold court, sparking Saturday night fever with spectacular new Serpenti Seduttori jewels, set with vibrant pink tourmalines. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra collection, a hallmark of the 1970s, remains hugely popular and is available in a spectrum of shimmering hues. Embrace bangles in abundance, stacked up the arm, or add punch with a single statement cuff. And what would a reference to the 1970s be without highlighting the era’s greatest enduring jewellery icon – the seminal Cartier Love Bracelet, created by designer and Studio 54 regular Aldo Cipullo in 1969? Nearly 50 years on, it remains a gleaming symbol of romance and timeless style. See you on the dancefloor.

clockwise from top left: Earrings, Suzanne Kalan, £13,160, suzannekalan.com; Magic Alhambra EARRINGS, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, £5,950, vancleefarpels.com; Serpenti Seduttori necklace, Bulgari, £89,000, bulgari.com; Amulette de Cartier earrings, £7,750, cartier.co.uk; Trip the Light Fantastic earrings, Jessica McCormack, POA, jessicamccormack.com; Daria necklace and Thea bracelet, Messika, POA, messika.com; Trip the Light Fantastic ring, Jessica McCormack, POA, as before

ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS

Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday destinations around the world, ski resorts in the Austrian, French and Swiss Alps, and the world’s greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art paper, measuring 97 x 65 cms.

Priced at £395 each.

Private commissions are also welcome.

Pullman Editions Ltd 94 Pimlico Road Chelsea London SW1W 8PL www.pullmaneditions.com Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 Email: georgina@pullmaneditions.com

Our central London gallery

View and buy online at w w w.pullmaneditions.com

Collection

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Only Watch, Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet’s Only Watch 2017 entrant is the brand’s first black ceramic perpetual calendar to feature a ceramic caseback, as well as a black oscillating weight visible through a sapphire display. A striking ‘skylight’ blue dial contrasts with an attention-grabbing orange-tinted moon. Estimate: £65,000-£98,000

Only Watch

2017

Reference 5208T-010, Patek Philippe Launched in 2011, Patek Philippe’s Reference 5208 combines three of the most intricate complications in watchmaking: a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar and a monopusher chronograph. The 5208T-010, created especially for the auction, is the first titanium version. Estimate: £735,000-£890,000

BR-X1 R.S.17, Bell & Ross Bell & Ross and Renault Sport Formula One present the BR-X1 R.S.17, a skeletonised chronograph with ceramic pushers. The winning bidder will be invited to the final Formula One race in Abu Dhabi, where they will meet the Renault drivers and take home the racing gloves worn by team driver Nico Hülkenberg. Estimate: £18,000-£25,000 s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

The biggest names in watchmaking unite to raise millions for muscular dystrophy words: Richard Brown

very two years a collection of leading watch marques create one-off timepieces destined for Only Watch, a charitable initiative supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco to raise money for research into muscular dystrophy. Since its first edition in 2005, the auction has raised more than £23 million, thanks, in no small part, to Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5016, which became the (then) most expensive wristwatch ever sold when it achieved £5.7 million at Only Watch 2015. After an around-the-world tour, the 49 one-off models will be auctioned at Christie’s, Geneva, on 11 November. Expect the following lots to whip the gathered horophiles into a frenzy. onlywatch.com

Laureato 2017 Special Edition, Girard-Perregaux Launched in the 1970s, cult sports watch Laureato was revived in 2016 in a limited run before becoming a permanent collection in 2017. For Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux has issued a bronze-cased version. Estimate: £12,000-£15,000

Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt, Hublot Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt is a transparent timepiece created with sapphire, one of the most difficult materials to machine. A counter at 9 o’clock bears the silhouette of Bolt performing his trademark victory sign. The 45mm piece will be auctioned alongside a second yellow-gold strap, as well as the chance to meet the fastest man on Earth. Estimate: £40,000-£65,000 41

ART

Worlds collide The Queen in an Adidas hoodie emblazoned with the Union Jack; Snow White listening to music on an Apple device. All that Central St Martins graduate Day-z needs is a pencil to set her imagination free. Imitate Modern, which moved to Shepherd Market earlier this year, will be showing her drawings as part of a bold contemporary group exhibition. Re:Creations, 1 September â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 8 October, 19 Shepherd Market, W1J, imitatemodern.com

Day-z , Charlie Bottle, 2013

Prize lots

Sold £2,288,750 E sti m ate : £ 2 5 0 , 0 0 0 – £ 3 5 0 , 0 0 0

A German parcel-gilt silver drinking cup in the form of the 66-point stag, circa 1696 “The outstanding quality and rarity of the cup, combined with its provenance as one of the five lots offered from the property of the Prince of Prussia, clearly made it very desirable to collectors and we were absolutely delighted to be able to bring such a remarkable object to the market.” – Henry House, head of Furniture and Decorative Arts at Sotheby’s

Upc

in om

E sti m at e £20, 000 – £30, 000

Sold £605,000 Estimate: £200,000 – £300,000

Freischwimmer #84, Wolfgang Tillmans, 2004 “This work set a new world record of £605,000 for the artist in our June sale. Freischwimmer #84 belongs to an iconic and captivating series epitomising the 2000 Turner Prize winner’s pioneering and innovative style.” – Dina Amin, European head of 20th Century and Contemporary Art at Phillips

A gold, boulder opal and diamond pendant necklace by Andrew Grima, 1972 Andrew Grima not only revolutionised the fine jewellery industry when he opened his 1966 Jermyn Street boutique, but he transformed the Mayfair shopping landscape too, with his avant-garde façade and cutting-edge interior design. Often referred to as the doyen of 20th-century British jewellery design, his fans included Barbara Hepworth and Jackie Kennedy Onassis. The sale of the largest private collection of his pieces will undoubtedly attract worldwide attention at Bonhams this month. Fine Jewellery, 20 September, bonhams.com

sold, from Top: A German parcel-gilt silver drinking cup in the form of the 66 point stag, attributed to a model by Andreas Schlüter, Daniel Männlich, Berlin, circa 1696, 29 cm, 3577 grams, treasures sale, 5 July, sothebys.com, image courtesy of Sotheby’s; Freischwimmer #84, Wolfgang Tillmans, signed ‘Wolfgang Tillmans’ on a gallery label affixed to the reverse, c-print, in artist’s frame, 238.8 cm x 181 cm, executed in 2004, this work is number 1 from an edition of 1 plus 1 artist’s proof, 20th Century & Contemporary Art evening sale, 29 June, phillips.com, image courtesy of Phillips upcoming: A gold, boulder opal and diamond pendant necklace by Andrew Grima, 1972. Set with a large, irregular piece of boulder opal realised as mountainous landscape with textured gold ridges and scatterings of brilliant-cut diamond snow, suspended from a textured torque, bonhams.com, image courtesy of Bonhams

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holding

t h e d r aw i n g board

court

Gilbert & George: The General Jungle or Carrying on Sculpting, 13 September – 18 November, Lévy Gorvy, 22 Old Bond Street, W1S, levygorvy.com

William Turnbull: New Worlds, Words, Signs, Offer Waterman, 29 September – 3 November, 17 St George Street, W1S, waterman.co.uk

A committee of 70 specialists have vetted the art and antiques that will land in the heart of Mayfair for the latest LAPADA fair – from steals for £500, to a George I giltwood secretaire cabinet attributed to a royal cabinetmaker and made for export to the Portuguese court (on show at Mackinnon Fine Furniture for more than £500,000). Around 100 exhibitors will be present and a series of talks will span the history of jewellery, ‘undressing antiques’ and world religion. 15-20 September, Berkeley Square, lapadalondon.com

Above: Maria Torroba, Golden Mary, 2017, courtesy of rebecca hossack gallery right, from top: gilbert & george, IS NOT ART THE ONLY HOPE FOR THE MAKING WAY FOR THE MODERN WORLD TO ENJOY THE SOPHISTICATION OF DECADENT LIVING EXPRESSION, 1971, image credit: Stephen White, ©2017 Gilbert & George; William Turnbull, Walking Figures, 1953; alfred kubin, Der Magier (The Magician), 1900 LEFt: Photo by Simon Bevan of Self-Portrait by Sir Oswald Birley, oil on canvas

Alfred Kubin, 1900-1906: The Quickening and the Dead, 29 September – 3 November, Richard Nagy, 22 Old Bond Street, W1S, richardnagy.com

a few familiar faces Sir Oswald Birley was commissioned by royals, aristocrats and politicians alike in the early 1900s. Several portraits hang in his grandson Robin’s 5 Hertford Street club, but this exhibition of 50, including Winston Churchill and Stanley Baldwin, also offers a glimpse into the interwar years. Birley: Power and Beauty, 26 September – 10 October, Philip Mould,18-19 Pall Mall, SW1Y, philipmould.com

Photography by Levon Biss - www.microsculpture.net

Moooi presents a life extraordinary! Moooi New York · 36 East 31st Street · New York, NY 10016 Moooi Amsterdam · Westerstraat 187 · 1015 MA Amsterdam Moooi London · 23 Great Titchfield Street · London, W1W 7PA Moooi Tokyo · Three F 6-11-1 Minami Aoyama · Minato-ku, Tokyo www.moooi.com

Movers& shakers Mario Testino OBE may be renowned for his fashion photography, but he has also spent a lifetime collecting and championing the work of new artists. This month a unique exhibition and auction at Sotheby’s showcases these pieces together for the first time, writes Kari Colmans

this page, clockwise from above: Richard Prince, Untitled (Girlfriend), 1993; Ugo Rondinone, No. 211 DREIZEHNTERSEPTEMBERZWEITAUSENDUNDNULL, 2000; Wolfgang Tillmans, Eclipse 2-3, 1998 oppostite page, clockwise from top left: Elizabeth Peyton, Pink (Spencer) (Three), 2002; Adriana Varej+úo, Blue Sauna, 2003; Georg Baselitz, Der Absprung (Remix), 2007

“J

ust as photography is a vehicle for me to live a new moment, to go to a new place, meet a new person and so on, art is a process of encounter and discovery,” says Mario Testino. “Art is never static.” As one of the industry’s most celebrated photographers, Testino’s name has become synonymous with today’s most influential stars thanks to his signature blend of portraiture and groundbreaking fashion tableaus. But his judicious eye has naturally led him to look beyond the lens to the world of contemporary art around him. From arriving in the Big Smoke as an unknown 22-year old, to travelling the world as the most sought-after photographer of his generation, Testino has always immersed himself in local art scenes, engaging with galleries and artists, and acquiring their work. Starting with photography – his first aquisition was a portrait of Vivien Leigh by the Surrealist photographer Angus McBean – he at first concentrated on early and mid-20th-century photography before moving on to more contemporary artists. “It was a great learning curve for me,” Testino says, “exploring how photography can be used in so many different ways.” This month, Sotheby’s is collaborating with the photographer and philanthropist to present a unique exhibition and auction series of his collected works entitled Shake It Up, with proceeds going towards the not-for-profit Museo MATE (pronounced mah-teh) in Lima. The centre was established by Testino in 2012 to promote and support Peruvian culture, as well as bring the country’s greatest talents to international attention. “I have an amazing opportunity to help my country,” says Testino, about the auction. “I’ve been very successful in my work, thanks to my origin. My roots have been very key to who I have become.” The curated group of paintings, photographs, works on paper and sculpture

ART

hail from some of the most important artists of the past two decades, as well as others still under the radar. With more than 400 works on sale from 45 countries, the display, which will be accompanied by talks from friends and collaborators, isn’t just an auction for Testino. “My buying was associated with making young artists stay alive almost,” he says, “because I was buying them quite early on and betting on people who had no proof. My money was going into things that could make it or couldn’t make it. But I was excited by the process, participating with the artists’ careers and development and growth. They also all surprised me with what they did.” Unsurprisingly, portraiture is a recurring theme that runs throughout Testino’s Shake It Up collection. Highlights include work by the controvesrial German artist Georg Baselitz; American painter Elizabeth Peyton, who is known for her highly stylised portraits of close friends and family; and fellow photographer Richard Prince, whose Untitled (Girlfriend) (opposite page) is estimated to fetch between £250,000 and £350,000. Indeed, the discovery of Prince and his development of ‘rephotography’ as a new art form marked a key early moment in Testino’s passion for collecting art. “The first piece of his that I bought was the biker girlfriend,” says Testino. “The idea of appropriation for me was a very new thing, because I’ve always been quite respectful about other people’s property. But what I’ve realised is that he made us look at things that we weren’t looking at properly

and challenged us to look at things differently.” For Testino, the dialogue with fellow artists has often extended to working relationships. Cecily Brown, Paul McCarthy, Urs Fischer, Vik Muniz and Albert Oehlen are all artists with whom he has collaborated and whose work features in the sale. As well as raising money for MATE, and the chance to buy into the extensive collection, the display offers a glimpse into the creative mind and voracious eye of one of the industry’s greatest iconoclasts. “Life is all about energy, letting the energy flow. In a way I’m shaking it up to give to others and to let this work also be appreciated by other people.” With some of his most treasured personal pieces up for auction, Testino is only too happy to pass on his greatest finds. “I feel I have consumed them and I don’t want to hold onto things just because of their value or their historical value,” he says. “When you close a door, another door opens. I think it’s important to let go, to allow new things to come in.”

“Art is a process of encounter and discovery”

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Shake It Up: Works from the Mario Testino Collection exhibition, 8-13 September; followed by two auctions on 13 and 14 September, 34-35 New Bond Street, W1A, sothebys.com

e v e n ts

por t r ai t s

jo h n @joh n n a s s a ri .c o . uk

w eddi ngs

w w w. j ohnnas s ar i .co.uk

Venus in furs

Florentine designer Ermanno Scervinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moody new campaign starring Italian supermodel Mariacarla Boscono was shot by none other than the cinematic photographer Peter Lindbergh. Scervino chose the banks of the river Seine as the setting: a fitting frame for delicate lace, frills and furs styled with Parisian nonchalance alongside masculine brogues, double breasted suits and oversized coats. 198-199 Sloane Street, SW1X, ermannoscervino.it and at Harrods

FASHION

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TO READ MORE ARTICLES LIKE THIS VISIT www.luxurylondon.co.uk

@luxurylondonofficial 

@theofficialll

FASHION

DOuble Denim Max Mara’s global fashion director Laura Lusuardi talks textiles What inspired your collaboration with The Woolmark Company collection? Women these days like a relaxed, practical look, and denim has always provided a solution to this need. Denim, however, still remains too casual for Max Mara, so we needed to find a fabric that was easy to wear yet sophisticated at the same time. The Wool Denim line – 100 per cent Merino wool – combines these two characteristics perfectly. Who best represents Max Mara? A personal favourite is Nicole Kidman. She’s very versatile – she’s not only a great actress but also a family figure, taking care of her children. From £305, maxmara.com

butterfly knot Bottega Veneta’s iconic yet understated knot clasp never gets old, which is why for A/W17 Tomas Maier has added a line of City Knot bags to the 50th anniversary collection (it now comes in an eye-catching ochre), and updated the minimal Olimpia style to feature the distinctive fastening. City Knot bag, £15,715; Olimpia knot bag, £3,060, 14 Old Bond Street, W1S, bottegaveneta.com

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Carnival fever Just when we thought September couldn’t get any more abundant with activity in the city, Regent Street will once again host its own month-long fashion and design festival. There will be free talks by the likes of Bella Freud and photographer David Montgomery, and fashion illustrators will roam flagship stores such as Aquascutum sketching the West End’s best dressed. 1-30 September, regentstreetonline.com

new neighbours Those suffering from end of summer blues should be prescribed a trip to Zimmermann, Bruton Street’s most recent arrival. The Aussie brand’s first European outpost stocks its renowned ultra-flattering swimwear and delicate prints, as well as an eyewear collaboration with Cutler and Gross. 23a Bruton Street, W1J, zimmermannwear.com 51

FASHION

Ahead of the launch of her new book, English Myths and Legends, Alice Temperley MBE talks style icons, her love of Somerset and the changing face of the fashion industry

Alice’s Wonderland

words: Ellen Millard

opposite page, image credit: greg williams

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

hen Alice Temperley recalls her childhood, spent growing up on a cider farm in Somerset, sequin embellishment is not what springs to mind. Muddy wellington boots, tractors, rolling hills in verdant hues and rows of trees laden with juicy apples, certainly – but not the evening gowns, often heavy with embroidery and floral motifs, for which the designer is known. And yet, it’s to her home county that Temperley returns time and time again when creating a new collection, calling on the carefree spirit of the countryside for inspiration. The photo shoot for her A/W17 campaign even took place among the orchards of the cider farm itself. “Growing up in the countryside has given me a sense of freedom and this is visible in my work,” the designer tells me. “I want things to be real, fanciful and romantic, but wearable, no matter how decadent the design is.” For the uninitiated, Temperley is the fashion designer recognised for bringing 1970s bohemia into the 21st century, combining dainty floral prints and peasant blouse cuts with lace, ruffles and embellishment and, in doing so, creating a uniform that looks just as much at home at Glastonbury as it does on the red carpet. Her fashion label, Temperley London, was founded in 2000, just a year after she graduated from the Royal College of Art and, in the 17 years since, the brand’s upward trajectory has been rapid. In 2002, Temperley Bridal was launched, and a year later the designer’s first fashion show was held in Notting Hill. She was awarded an MBE in 2011 – “it was a real honour” – and in 2012 her high-street collaboration with John Lewis became the fastest selling range in the department store’s history. The brand now boasts five standalone stores (Notting Hill, Mayfair, Bicester, Dubai and Doha), and a fan base that includes the likes of HRH The Duchess of Cambridge, Penélope Cruz and Thandie Newton. She

left and below, image credit: matilda temperley right, image credit: amelia allen

describes her customers as “independent, free-spirited, confident and feminine”. As a student, the designer expected to “end up in interiors or photography”, but, when she regales me with the stories of her childhood, it would seem that fashion has always been her calling. “I used to try on all my mother’s clothes and cut up her fabrics and shawls to make other things – it didn’t go down very well!” she jokes. “I was always breaking her sewing machine and it was often hidden from me. My father wanted me to be a scientist, so I started by doing textiles and playing around with chemicals in the dye labs. I made clothes to fund my course and somehow ended up in fashion.” The brand’s evolution is outlined in a new book, English Myths and Legends, which is a compilation of the inspirations and successes of the designer and her brand. She tells me that it

“I made clothes to fund my course and somehow ended up in fashion”

FASHION

have changed the way brands communicate with their customers, and the way customers interact with brands. It keeps moving faster, and it is imperative to focus and be consistent.” Indeed, Temperley admits she was intrigued by the recent ‘see now, buy now’ trend – but, she explains, her work transcends fast fashion. “It’s difficult for me to think about my collection as a product instantly available to buy, as a lot of work and craftsmanship goes into each piece,” she says. “I experimented with ‘see now, buy now’ for my S/S17 show, allowing our customers to buy three looks directly from the runway. It was a success – however the detailing and artistry that go into each Temperley London piece makes it unique and timeless, something our customers think is worth waiting for.”

This immersive tome provides a window into Temperley’s world and inspirations

“illustrates what we stand for as Temperley London today, as an independently owned brand”, adding that it summarises all that her and the team have created over the past 16 years. Spread across five chapters, the immersive tome also offers an insight into the highly skilled craftsmanship that is at the core of each collection, illustrated by editorial shoots and the label’s own campaign images. It’s a striking visual compendium of Temperley’s work, providing a window into her world and inspirations, which are drawn from “friends, music, films, markets and the countries I visit”. For her A/W17 collection, Temperley looked at “the archetypal English woodland and the creatures that live within it”, focusing heavily, as always, on floral motifs, but also fruit and chickens inspired by Russian artist Andrey Remnev’s medieval paintings. But for Temperley, the A/W17 collection is now old news; S/S18 will be unveiled at London Fashion Week in September. It has been nearly 15 years since she held her first show, debuting at a time when the British fashion scene was sparsely populated. Now, homegrown talent is swelling, with more Brits cropping up than you can keep count of. Seventeen years after she joined the fashion world, Temperley agrees that it has changed dramatically. “It is even more fast paced and continually evolving. Technology now plays a big role in fashion,” she says. “E-commerce and social media

English Myths and Legends by Alice Temperley is out 5 September, £45, published by Rizzoli, rizzoliusa.com

All images courtesy of English Myths and Legends by Alice Temperley

Strike a pose in the homeland of haute couture with Parisian gowns straight from the catwalk Photographer G i l l e s - M a r i e Z i mm e r m a n n S t y l i sT m i k e a d l e r

Sa vo ir

r i fa e

Zuhair Murad, poa, zuhairmurad.com

THIS PAGE Jean Paul Gaultier, POA, JeanPaulGaultier.com OPPOSITE PAGE Stephane rolland, POA, stephanerolland.com

Every woman is a

princess

- christian dior

christian dior, POA, dior.com

THIS PAGE Alexandre Vauthier, POA, Alexandrevauthier.com OPPOSITE PAGE Zuhair Murad, POA, as before PHOTOGRAPHEr Gilles-Marie Zimmermann at Angela de Bona stylist Mike Adler at Angela de Bona MODEL Catrinel Marlon at Next Model Management Photography ASSISTANT Sophie Lemedioni stylist Assistant Sara Mtimet HAIR Tie Toyama at Calliste agency Paris MAKE-UP Natsuki Oneyama Post Production Nadia Selander location Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris

FASHION

Dressed to

Kill

Mr Blair Getz Mezibov for MRPORTER.COM

on the run

B e l staf f x S OP H N ET, £ 2 2 5 , b e l s ta ff. c o. u k

Ad id as or igi n al s x H e n ry Poo l e , £ 1 5 0 , s i ze . c o . u k

iN Celebration of the muchanticipated film, Kingsman: The Golden Circle, released in September, Mr Porter has once again teamed up with director Matthew Vaughn and costume designer Arianne Phillips to create a second Costume to Collection line. In the sequel, the secret service team that operates out of a tailor’s shop on Savile Row forms a U.S. alliance: cue Americana-inspired pieces such as western jackets and Stetson hats, alongside collaborations with familiar Mayfair-based brands like Turnbull & Asser and Swaine Adeney Brigg. From £50, mrporter.com

J .M . W e st on , £ 4 3 0 , j mw e s ton. f r

All bases covered international man of missoni Missoni has unveiled its first fragrance for men in two decades – and it is worth the wait. The definitive scent, simply called Missoni Parfum Pour Homme, exudes green lemon and ginger notes, with a sensuous woody drydown of oakwood, birch and musk, arousing an image of an enticing and creative Missoni man who is as stylish as the weighty, petrol-hued glass bottle itself. £62 for 100ml, available at Harrods and missoni.com s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Trunk Clothiers founder Mats Klingberg has already done the hard work for us by gathering the finest pieces by the coolest menswear labels in his Marylebone shops. Now he has launched Trunk’s first own brand: a range of staple garms that will become the bones of your wardrobe, all year round. From £95, 8 Chiltern Street, W1U, trunkclothiers.com 65

FASHION

Sewing new seeds

What lies in the future of Mayfair’s most sartorial street? Author James Sherwood reflects on Savile Row’s inimitable combination of style and substance

Savile Row’s historic tailoring firms must adapt or die, and take the long view

from top: house check clock, image courtesy of huntsman; dege & skinner bentley car coat opposite: timothy everest dinner suit, image courtesy of Munster/The Rake, 2009

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

collaboration with Adidas Originals. One was in the company’s Churchill chalk stripe; the other in midnight blue barathea, echoing the first dinner jacket cut in 1865 for the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII). The first release of the trainers sold out within a week – making Henry Poole something of a daddy cool. The Row is an attractive proposition for cool brands precisely because the craft of hand measuring, cutting, fitting and finishing combines integrity, history and the ultimate luxury. There is also the fact that the quality of tailoring on Savile Row has never been better. In the early 1900s, Poole had the capacity to produce 600 garments a week. Today, the houses average just over 1,000 bespoke suits per year, passing through seven pairs of skilled hands over a ten-week period. The apprenticeship scheme put in place by the Savile Row Bespoke Association has trained more than 200 pairs of hands, of which 60 cutters and tailors are now employed. This earns respect from the millennial generation. This injection of young blood in the workshops and showrooms on the Row has been the single biggest change since Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke was published. Huntsman and Anderson & Sheppard in particular have trained a generation of hipsters who are arguably their own best advertisements. The hipster movement has had a profound and lasting influence on menswear that plays entirely to Savile Row’s strengths. The skinny jean and tailored jacket are the closest the fashionable male has since come to

clockwise from left: hawkes & co. on savile row in the 1940s, image courtesy of Gieves & Hawkes archive; queen’s royal lancers mess dress tunic, dege & Skinner, image courtesy of Guy Hills, 2010; Anderson & Sheppard check jacket; adidas x henry poole; bespoke suit, image courtesy of Henry Poole & Co archive

The houses average just over 1,000 bespoke suits a year

the silhouette dictated by George ‘Beau’ Brummell at the turn of the 19th century. Breeches-tight trousers flatter a gym-toned body just as they did the equestrian figure during the Regency era. Hipsters have also been responsible for the great tweed revival in urban fashion, led in some respects by Dashing Tweeds, the Tweed Run and The Chap – but actually owned by Savile Row, whose estate checks were woven for the grouse moors, woodlands and deer parks of their aristocratic customers. In this respect the bespoke

FASHION

tailors were the founders of sportswear: riding, shooting, winter sports and motoring. This is the reason that companies such as Bentley, Converse, Adidas, Rolex and Barbour have chosen to collaborate on limited editions with tailors including Dege & Skinner and Norton & Sons. Although the historic houses may not agree, Savile Row tailoring is kept relevant by the firework bespoke tailors. These independent new names above shop doors speak to a new generation. Tommy Nutter led the Peacock Revolution in the 1970s, while Timothy Everest, Richard James and Ozwald Boateng – the Cool Britannia New Establishment tailors – put bespoke on the catwalks in the 1990s. Since 2010, independents operating off-Row have made the trade a city-wide concern again: names such as Kathryn Sargent, Thom Sweeney, Steven Hitchcock, Byrne & Burge, Henry Herbert and Connock & Lockie. A new generation having faith in an ancient trade is the highest compliment. Ironically, as dress codes break down and seemingly anything goes, the style of Savile Row will become increasingly trusted as a place of greater authenticity. But what will secure its future is the fact that handmade clothing executed to the precise requirements of the customer is the epitome of male elegance. The balance of orders may change from predominantly city suits to separates, cocktail dress and weekend tailoring, but men with style and substance will inevitably find their way to Savile Row’s bespoke tailors for the London Cut.

The Row is kept relevant by firework bespoke tailors

James Sherwood is the author of Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke. The second edition is available now, £29.95, thameshudson.co.uk

clockwise from top: henry poole & Co’s head of tailoring, working on a full state footman’s coat, image courtesy of Henry Poole & Co archive; hunting pinks, image courtesy of Huntsman archive; savile row, image courtesy of Guy Hills/ Huntsman, 2008; bespoke suit, image courtesy of Guy Hills/Hunstman, 2009; timothy everest bespoke black tie, image courtesy of Munster/The Rake, 2009; tailors at henry Poole & co’s livery department, image courtesy of Henry Poole & Co archive

City Magazine_Demetra.indd 1

26/04/17 11:48

INTERIORS

Light as a feather

Moooi is set to transform its London showroom into an immersive and wondrous paradise during London Design Festival (16-24 September). A sparkling installation of Arihiro Miyake’s Coppélia lights will welcome visitors upon arrival. Inside, they will be invited to take a magnified photograph of their iris, taking cue from Marcel Wanders’ opticalinspired rug that will be on display. Meanwhile, Umut Yamac’s spellbinding Perch collection will illuminate the space: a flock of sculptural paper and brass light fittings that resemble birds, which gently sway when blown or tapped. 23 Great Titchfield Street, W1W, moooi.com

Image courtesy of Moooi

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

L O N D O N 2 0 G R A F T O N S T R E E T U K . H O L LY H U N T. C O M

DESIGN BY TRISTAN AUER, MAISON&OBJET DESIGNER OF THE YEAR

INTERIORS

eclectic feel You may recognise the name of this new online curiosity shop from its recent pop-up launch at Maison Assouline on Piccadilly. Founders of Artemest, Ippolita Rostagno and Marco Credendino, curate the best of Italian craftsmanship, making it (almost too) easy for us to collect – and in many cases customise – extraordinary artisanal furniture, gifts and treasures for the home. artemest.com

PAPER TRAIL For its debut wall covering collection launching at Decorex this month, the Paint & Paper Library chose modern mural artist Hugo Dalton to design eight prints. The collaboration – inspired by Dalton’s trip to Tresco island in Cornwall – came about because he already used the company’s paint to create his minimal wall paintings. Available from October, from £90, paintandpaperlibrary.com

A touch of Glass

IN excess

Moser takes us on a journey through its archives in its 160th anniversary collection. The glasswork is inspired by design processes that have been handed down from generation to generation, with each piece representing a technique that was once used at a certain time by Moser’s preceding designers. From £150, Thomas Goode, 19 South Audley Street, W1K, thomasgoode.com

Gucci Décor, Alessandro Michele’s new line of interior accessories, is as fabulously over-the-top as you would expect. Clash loud silk wallpaper with velvet tasselled cushions and screens adorned with blooming geometric garden prints to capture the creative director’s coveted whimsical look. From £150, 34 Old Bond Street, W1S, gucci.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Meet the

maker John Makepeace: Officer of the British Empire, professor, nurturer of new talent, master of design and disrupter of the status quo. Hannah Lemon explores the inspirational furniture maker’s legacy 40 years on

andering around the Design Museum, you begin to get an idea of the revolutionary way designers shape the way we live. How the dining table was transformed into a curved piece of plywood, or how the humble wooden rocking chair ended up as a cantilevered piece of plastic. Much of this is due to John Makepeace OBE. The unnassuming 78-year-old furniture maker greets me in a quiet room on the second floor with a cheery smile and light handshake, a vibrant magenta shirt the only hint to the rather unorthodox approach he has to life in general. Born in Solihull in 1939, Makepeace’s fascination with carpentry began at an early age, much to the surprise of his family. “I found that because I was the youngest – the last of five children – I was quite solitary. I amused myself with all sorts of woodworking, misusing the tools that were there. Eventually I was given a chisel and it progressed from there.” Makepeace enrolled in an apprenticeship with Dorset-based furniture designer Keith Cooper, earning 15p an hour, alongside studying a distance learning programme in teaching that introduced him to the philosophy and theory behind design. “It was a really vital moment. I was obviously keen and worked quite hard in the daytime,” he recalls, “and then in the evenings and weekends I studied this course and learnt the curriculum.” Trips abroad to Nigeria, Morroco and Scandinavia provided further education to help focus his eye on form. “I would say what changed things more than any other visit was going to Denmark as a teenager,” says Makepeace, “and actually realising that what they were making at that time was the best. I saw individually made items for the first time in my life. They understood the body, and their shapes were responsive to that.” Makepeace’s first port of call when starting out on his own was to head for retailers. He arranged a meeting with a furniture buyer at Heal’s, but instead of showing a portfolio of his work, Makepeace brought in a table he had made. While he waited for his appointment, customers in the store began to marvel at the simple design – eight pieces of wood screwed together with a glass top that could be dissembled for ease of transportation. Heal’s ordered six immediately.

INTERIORS

“A fortnight later they ordered another six,” marvels Makepeace. “The numbers went up and up, and eventually the volume was greater than we could cope with, and we started manufacturing them in what was then Yugoslavia.” Other retailers followed suit, such as Habitat and Liberty, but department stores weren’t the end game. Makepeace won contracts for universities, offices and eventually individuals who wanted to order one-of-a-kind pieces. This success led him to be the only furniture maker commissioned by the Carpenters’ Company guild, for which he crafted a threelegged chair. “The back leg gives you lumbar support, which is so crucial and so often missing,” he explains. “The construction is quite sophisticated: the arms have multiple layers that bend and twist and become part of the back.” Makepeace was awarded an OBE by Her Majesty the Queen in 1988 in recognition for his work at Parnham College in Dorset (and later Hooke Park campus), which he founded 40 years ago to provide integrated courses in design and management for aspiring furniture makers (alumni include the likes of David Linley). “It’s quite an interesting situation: having a concept, realising it, and then 40 years later people saying how it has affected their lives,” he says. The college once received the Duke of Edinburgh for an offical visit and Makepeace recalls a dinner with His Royal Highness the Prince, dropping into conversation how much he would love to design something for Buckingham Palace. Philip suggested he copy one of the original tables in the household, but Makepeace

declined, saying he could only do a contemporary work. “One has to have principles,” smiles Makepeace on turning down royalty. “Life is too short.” Design for Makepeace is a “human language”, guiding the way people react to one another. He experiments with this in the 18th-century home he shares with his wife Jennie in Dorset. “When we sit people down for dinner, we have 12 different chairs around the table so people have already made some sort of selection about which chair they want to sit in.” His home is also an opportunity for him to continue supporting a new generation of designers through commissions – young silversmiths, goldsmiths and blacksmiths have

Clockwise from top left: the master carpenter’s chair made for the carpenters’ company; Forum Table and Chairs for the Directors of Boots plc; Millennium Chair, Celebrating the 20th century; parnham college; mulberry table

“One has to have principles. Life is too short”

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

created everything from the gates of his home to a vase for his table. It is so impactful that the house and garden have been made open to the public. And if a student were to leave his college with only one lesson learnt, what would that to be? “Do simple things well. It’s a good idea to start with doing very basic things perfectly, because that becomes a platform for constant grace.” To find out more about the Parnham College design legacy, purchase the limited-edition book Beyond Parnham out this month, £35, beyondparnham.com

Weaving

a mark Rug specialist Sahrai opened its doors on Brook Street this year, ready to bring artistic inspiration to Mayfair’s interiors. Lily Devan delves into the company’s centuries-old heritage

alking into Sahrai’s showroom, where Brook Street meets Davies Street, is like entering an art gallery: rugs are hung from the walls and displayed in the windows like paintings. Naturally, they are also on the floor, although instinct is to hop around the edge rather than tread over the middle (unavoidable, as it turns out). Sahrai is a centuries-old, family-run carpet company, directed by siblings Rana and Ramine Sahrai. Its headquarters are in Milan, but “over the past decades, we’ve been building relationships with some of the most prestigious interior designers in London”, says Ramine. And so, earlier this year, doors were opened in Mayfair, inviting the area’s international clientele to discover the firm’s collections (from Taj Mahal to Place Vendôme, see overleaf). Each rug is created in Sahrai’s private ateliers by craftsmen who go through more than 100 steps: from material and colour selection, spinning wool to working

“We have combined our expertise in oriental carpet weaving with Western interiors”

from top: Gianfranco Ferrè Collection, Obsidian, £22,500; rana and ramine sahrai opposite: Gianfranco Ferrè Collection, Kharma, £22,500

INTERIORS

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

carpe t, l e f t o ak, £ 1 4 , 5 8 0 carpe t, top le opard, £ 1 2 , 0 0 0

car p e t, l e f t a r a d, £ 7 5 , 6 0 0 car p e t, t o p s h a h la , £ 5 5 , 0 0 0

the Noor collection

the parsa collection

These contemporary handmade rugs are designed in Italy. This chic collection runs the gamut of patterns: from wildlife (a pair of yellow panther’s eyes emerging from a black background; zebras; owls) to the geometric (stars, stripes) and faded damask. From £9,000

As Sahrai describes, hand-knotted Parsa rugs bring Persian tradition into the modern age, celebrating the company’s roots and the beauty of antiquity. Sahrai’s design studio has revisited classic Persian patterns: delicate motifs in mottled pastel colours. From £17,000

carpet, l e f t vani lle , £ 3 0 , 0 0 0 carpet, top marie ant oinette, £27,000

car p e t, l e f t an d t o p ga r gy t ur q uo ise , £19,200

the place vendÔme collection

the taj mahal collection

There are plenty of cream and gold – practically gilded – designs in this haute couture French selection, inspired by Aubusson and Savonnerie designs. Sometimes Art Noveau, sometimes Baroque, this collection sits well in both modern and traditionalist interiors. From £11,250

Indian glamour comes in the form of large rectangular designs and often bold colours. This collection takes its cues from the maharajas’ ancient palaces. Each piece is created following traditional methods, knotted by hand in high quality wool and silk combinations. From £15,000

INTERIORS

clockwise from left: parsa collection, yass, £145,000; sparkles collection, raining lights, £28,500; the brook street showroom

on the warp and the weft. Hand-knotting a rug can take from four to more than 36 months, depending on its size and the density of the knots. “That’s why they are considered real works of art,” say Ramine and Rana. The atelier uses a variety of Italian silks, velvets, cottons, linens and jacquard patterns. Sahrai’s expertise dates back to 1830 in Tehran, when the family’s forebears searched Persia and the Caucasus for carpets to sell at the old bazaars. Nearly two centuries later, the company offers contemporary collections that are designed in Italy, and custom-made rugs to suit each client’s desired shape, dimension, texture and colour scheme. The process might begin with a visit to the Mayfair showroom to discuss a project, and take inspiration from the many rolls of carpet hidden just out of view. “Our aim is to interpret the client’s request into the rugs of their dreams, often going beyond expectation,” says Ramine. “Over the past two decades we have combined our expertise in oriental carpet weaving with the sophisticated design and originality of Western interiors, pushing the boundaries between classical and contemporary.” One of the company’s most novel achievements is Sparkles, a collection created with Swarovski crystals embedded into the top layer of its rugs. The stones create starry skies on dark or dusky backgrounds, or when set in lines, almost resemble a twinkling cityscape at night.

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Elsewhere, this year’s collections include a series of rugs with animal prints and exotic leaves from tropical rainforests. “Lately our attention has been directed towards nature and the wonders of the natural world,” says Rana. “Our 2017 collections relate to the way surfaces react to the passage of time,” she continues, referring to a texture that mimics the effect of oxidation. On 19 September, in time for London Design Festival, Sahrai will unveil Cave, a collection by Italian designer Marco Piva. Cave will draw on marble: its grain and colour, translated into woven form. Sahrai’s creations can be found in private homes the world over, as well as a number of prestigious locales: the royal box at the Scala Opera House, the Ritz Paris, Palazzo Fendi, Japan’s Imperial Palace and the Royal Palace of Kuwait among them. Head to Brook Street, and follow the lead of emirs and emperors.

“Our aim is to interpret the client’s request into the rug of their dreams, beyond expectation”

62-64 Brook Street, W1K, sahrai.com

In with the

new

Sensuel, £550 for 80ml, lalique, Harrods.com

white amber, from £320 for 75ml, creed, creedfragrances.co.uk

September fashion weeks might be upon us, but we’re busy updating our fragrance wardrobe first, with autumnal notes of wild fig, sandalwood and blackcurrant

goldea the roman night, £81 for 75ml, Bulgari, selfridges.com

basilico & Fellini, £155 for 100ml, vilhelm parfumerie, libertylondon.com

credit xxxxxx xxxX XXXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXX

twilly d’Hermès, from £47 for 30ml, Hermès, hermes.com English Oak & redcurrant, from £44 for 30ml, jo malone london, jomalone.co.uk

“A woman’s

perfume tells more about her than her

velvet haze, £142 for 100ml, byredo, libertylondon.com

handwriting” – Christian Dior the bewitching yasmine, £178 for 75ml, penhaligon’s, penhaligons.com

health & beauty

SPA R EV I E W

Stop the clock Hannah Lemon checks in to The Beaumont hotel’s serene spa to switch off for the afternoon with an epic hammam, massage and Pai facial

nce a zealous critic of mobile phones and the people who addictively use them, I have since become permanently attached to mine. It is my alarm, my newspaper, my calendar, my email inbox; and it’s rare to find my ear, hand or eye not permanently attached to the device. So on arrival at The Beaumont hotel’s spa, I feel like a limpet pulled from its rock. I’ve booked in for the Total Relaxation package that takes two hours and 45 minutes to complete – and my phone will be off for the duration. Who knows how the telecoms and web realm might cope without me? Eli, my delightfully cheery and discreet therapist for the afternoon guides me to the changing room, where a locker neatly contains all the necessities I need for the afternoon (toothbrush, paper pants and bra, cotton buds). I swap my office outfit for a white towel robe and slippers, and lock up my phone with one final sigh.

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

The noise of my alarm and the ping of emails is replaced with the soothing trickle of water. My first half an hour is spent being scrubbed hammam-style, with black soap and a body buffer. It’s almost as if I can see the city toxins draining down the sink. Once the cathartic process of being washed like a small child is over, I am left lathered in clay and wrapped in towels so any lost minerals can soak back into the skin. Ten minutes later as Eli returns, I seem to have nodded off – it turns out I’m rather good at this relaxing malarkey and my buffered, oily limbs are in sure agreement. Up next is an hour-long full body massage with oils, which slowly and

seductively loosen the tension in my shoulders, legs and lower back. As I sink further and further into the bed, I realise how much I’m enjoying this digital detox. The final part to this epic treatment journey is the Pai facial, from a brand that tailors its products to sensitive and unpredictable skin. Plant-derived cleansers, oils, eye creams and moisturisers are applied to help plump up my skin. While my now lolling head is soothed by the soft caresses of fingertips, I can smell the gentle scent of camomile and rosehip, as well as the comforting warmth of dates wafting under my nose. As the treatment ends, and Eli gives my scalp one last invigorating rub, I realise the true meaning of ‘switching off’ – it’s the switching back on I’ll now have trouble with. Total Relaxation, £240, The Beaumont Spa, Brown Hart Gardens, W1K, thebeaumont.com

Laura Burdese

A new

scentsation As luxury lifestyle and fragrance house Acqua di Parma launches its latest cologne, CEO Laura Burdese talks about bottling Italian scents words: Charlotte Phillips

he words Acqua di Parma are synonymous with la dolce vita, bringing to mind lazy, hedonistic days spent sipping Aperol spritz on the Amalfi coast or shopping in Portofino. The house has been bottling quintessential Italian fragrances since 1916. Scents evoke memories and moods – and Acqua di Parma has hit some enduring notes over the course of the past century – from the inaugural light and fresh Colonia collection, to the more recent Blu Mediterraneo range, which calls to mind a Vilebrequin-clad, European Adonis on a Vespa. Much of Acqua di Parma’s current success is down to the formidable business savvy of Laura Burdese, the brand’s CEO. A native Italian, Burdese worked at L’Oréal and Calvin Klein Watches & Jewelry before joining Acqua di Parma back in October of last year. “There have been dramatic changes in luxury fragrance,” Burdese says, “these include digital, e-commerce and distribution developments, but the most important shift is customer behaviour. It’s positive for us because it’s the niche brands that are booming, not the mass market – the brands with a story to tell.” Fittingly, for the first time, the new Acqua di Parma campaign depicts a real family, starring British model Will Chalker. It uses “emotional storytelling”, says Burdese, as “that’s what the brand was missing”. The campaign launches the latest men’s fragrance, Colonia Pura, which is full of mineral notes, presented in a minimalist bottle. It stays true to the brand’s origins – it smells of citrus and summer – but is more youthful than some of its other fragrances. The brand’s core demographic is summed up with a nifty acronym: “HENRY: high-earning, not rich yet,” Burdese says – a term also used to refer to Obama voters during his first presidential campaign.

The Blu Mediterraneo range calls to mind a Vilebrequin-clad Adonis on a Vespa

HEALTH & BEAUTY

“Acqua di Parma is exclusive. We don’t follow trends: we are refined and understated, and the people who buy us have a cultured understanding of fragrance.” Mr Acqua di Parma (60 per cent of the brand’s customers are male), sounds like quite the catch: between 35 to 45 years old, with a penchant for “beautiful things”. He “doesn’t buy brands”, but “meaningful items that resonate,” she says. “Acqua di Parma has always had this sense of being unmarketed – people have to hear about it by word of mouth.” Burdese continues: “Scent expresses your personality and unlocks a window into a favourite time or memory. It’s the final touch to your outfit – it makes you feel complete and lets your essence shine through.” Her fragrance of choice depends on the season, but in the summer she gravitates towards the more masculine Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi. All Acqua di Parma products are handmade in Italy, something that Burdese is particularly proud of. Each fragrance takes around two years to perfect, and everything down to the trademark bright yellow packaging – “the colour of sunshine” – is carefully crafted. The logos on each bottle are slightly different; each is made by hand, so the

All images courtesy of: Acqua di Parma

spacing is not as perfect as it would be if they were churned out by a machine. All of these touches are evidently resonating in the UK, which is Acqua di Parma’s second biggest market after Italy. Next, the brand will spread its scent to China, and hopes to double turnover by 2020 in the process. It’s a lofty aim – but as Burdese says it in her charming Italian accent, it feels entirely possible. And as I ponder this, in grey and dreary London, there’s only one thing for it – a spritz of Colonia Pura, to transport me straight to the Italian Riviera. Colonia Pura Eau de Cologne, £66 for 50ml, acquadiparma.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

le tour de

c o c k ta i l

france

hour

no, we’re not talking about the famous cycling race, we’re talking about Avenue’s five-course tasting menu of the same name. For one night only, journey through Gascony or Bordeaux as head sommelier Agustin Trapero pairs the Americaninspired restaurant’s dishes with France’s finest vintages. 13 September, 7pm, £75, 7-9 St James’s Street, SW1A, avenue-restaurant.co.uk

makes scents Sip, don’t spritz Creed’s latest fragrance at 34 Mayfair, with the Virgin Island Paradise cocktail. £14, until 10 September, 34 Grosvenor Square, W1K, 34-restaurant.co.uk

go ape Save the gorilla one drink at a time with the Mnky Hse Gorilla Love cocktail; £1 of each purchase goes to animal charity The Aspinall Foundation. £14, 10 Dover Street, W1S, mnky-hse.com

HOT STUFF Nobody does a curry better than Mayfair’s staple Indian restaurant Chutney Mary. Specialising in street food, the chefs are trained in the region of their Indian birthplace to produce authentic native dishes. Golden fried Bay of Bengal prawns and Goa crab cakes, followed by butter chicken methi masala and Bijapur lamb curry make for the perfect business lunch. Set lunch, £28 for two courses or £32 for three, 73 St James’s Street, SW1A, chutneymary.com

In the grip of the grape Fine wine and good company always result in an evening well spent, so grab five of your friends and head on down to Ormer at Flemings Mayfair. The restaurant, masterminded by the Michelin-starred chef Shaun Rankin, reveals its refurbished cellar this

month, The Barrel Room, which has been stocking bottles since 1851. Choose from four group packages to celebrate either English, Spanish, Italian or world-famous collections. From £450, 7-12 Half Moon Street, W1J, flemings-mayfair.co.uk

food & drink

R estau r a n t R e vie w

Ginza Onodera WORDS: Marianne Dick

n November 2016, Matsuri on Bruton Street – a popular local specialising in Japanese teppanyaki cuisine – closed its doors after 23 years of business and started a sixmonth refurbishment. In March, owner Hiroshi Onodera opened his seventh Ginza Onodera restaurant in its place, which promised to offer a more stylish yet still quintessentially Japanese dining experience. Aesthetically, the space has been opened up to cater for more types of diners. While Matsuri was renowned for its theatrical teppanyaki stations, Ginza Onodera also has dusky booths perfect for couples, fresh sushi and sashimi bars and a private conference room. The restaurant will even organise karaoke if you wish, manager Shunpei Yamaguchi tells me. The décor is sleek, shiny and monochrome, and the atmosphere is swanky: the basement setting and dim lighting has a rabbit hole effect where time is no longer measurable. Our first course consists of two signature sashimi dishes. The turbot kobujime usuzukuri looks very pretty: the thinly

sliced – nearly translucent – cactusfed turbot shimmers beneath a garnish of tiny cerise flower buds. It is served with dried seaweed, however the fish already has a subtle meaty saltiness courtesy of a kelp marinade. The black kanpachi carpaccio comes lounging in a truffle and citrus sauce and is decorated with pomegranate seeds and sliced fresh truffle. This combination results in a bright burst of freshness, followed by a refined rich flavour. My guest ponders whether it would be uncouth to sip the surplus sauce, before our waitress announces her surprise that we didn’t request a spoon (apparently many others have). Next we are served dobin mushi: a moreish seafood broth served in a teapot, which, when drained, leaves juicy prawns and mushrooms – and us wanting a refill. The sushi selection of eight seasonal fish is presented like a plate of precious oceanic trinkets; they are garnished with vibrant flowers, gem-like salmon roe and gold leaf. The main course – a chunk of glistening Canadian black cod cooked in white miso – is the pinnacle of this umamiabundant meal. The dizzyingly rich, fatty flakes melt on the tongue like butter and the skin is satisfyingly charred, adding a slight earthiness. My only qualm with Ginza Onodera is how quiet the restaurant was on a Thursday evening. If it continues to impress with its bold yet classic menu, though, it won’t be long before Hiroshi Onodera has Mayfair hooked again.

“The sushi selection is presented like a plate of precious oceanic trinkets”

15 Bury Street, SW1Y, onodera-group.com

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Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris, imageⒸ©Emmanuel Giraud

Parisian panache

A stay at Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris is all elegance and glamour. Inside, its largest suites have private hammams and home cinemas, while outdoors the hotel has hoisted a hanging garden over its outdoor terrace pool this summer. Here guests can enjoy a trio of treats: Belvedere Vodka cocktails, Pierre Hermé desserts and dishes by Nobu Matsuhisa. Delightful. From €850, raffles.com

TRAVEL

cutting a figure

STEP OUT on Park Lane in style with the help of Kathryn Sargent, the first female master tailor on Savile Row (and one of our panel of judges for this year’s Mayfair Awards). Sargent has partnered with the InterContinental on an hour-long consultation service for guests of its four signature suites: the London duplex apartment; the 112sqm Presidential Suite; the Royal Suite that nods to Her Majesty; or the Wellington Suite, which boasts views of Apsley House. In the comfort of your room, the tailor will share her sartorial expertise and ensure you are dressed to impress for every event this season – with a little personal flair, of course. From £5,000, intercontinental.com

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n e w ya c h t s from hotels

Dhahab – along the Musandam coast Starting out from Six Senses Zighy Bay in Oman, explore the rugged Musandam coast at ten knots in a beautifully restored golden dhow boat with three cabins. £17,270 for three days and two nights, sixsenses.com

gem of a night Where else would you go for gemstones but Geneva? A House of Gübelin expert will teach guests at Le Richemond the basics before a special diamond cocktail nightcap: champagne with a sparkler resting at the bottom. But sip carefully – will yours be a real diamond or a fake? Geneva Gem package, £470, dorchestercollection.com

Satori – italian med and south of france Up to ten can set sail on this 1920s-style schooner. It has been launched by Borgo Santo Pietro, a boutique Tuscan hotel, with chefs on board from its Michelin-starred restaurants. Around £75,000 per week, satoriyacht.com

WELLNESS

as an Art

Oasis gives you a moment to stop and take a breath. Feel the freedom and relaxation in your body and mind. Let your senses be inspired in a private paradise. It is all waiting for you. The art of wellbeing.

The Oasis by Don Carlos Resort · Boutique Hotel Experience · Marbella T (+34) 933 271 455 · dcreservas@expogrupo.com · www.doncarlosresort.expohotels.com/en/the-oasis · www.expohotels.com

promotion

Private sky Start your journey the right way with Heathrow VIP, a world-class VIP experience complete with private lounges, fine dining and a host of other services to make every experience memorable

n July, more than 7.5 million passengers travelled through Heathrow airport. On average 243,000 passengers passed through the airport every day, equivalent to the population of Plymouth. Heathrow may help millions on their way each month, but it also has a specialised team dedicated to making air travel a memorable and luxurious experience for a very special few. Heathrow VIP begins its bespoke service for business and first class passengers even before a chauffeur-driven BMW 7 series arrives outside their house to pick them up. One of the unique services is the team that is on hand to source any last minute requests or gifts for the journey ahead. “A dedicated member of the team will discuss in advance the customer’s needs and prepare their private lounge in advance, so any products are ready for them before they arrive,” says head of Heathrow VIP Priya Malhotra.

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“Our team of personal shoppers can accompany the customer to the terminal if they wish to discover the latest collections and exclusive ranges from their favourite brands. Our team of 24 personal shoppers are available at any time and speak a wide range of languages.” However, guests can also choose to have a completely private airport experience with Heathrow VIP, never setting foot in the main terminal. Their car will drop them off at the VIP private entrance, where they’ll be escorted by a Heathrow VIP butler to their own sumptuous private lounge. While check-in and luggage is taken care of (up to ten items of hand luggage are allowed per person), VIP customers can enjoy a range of dining choices in the lounge, with a monthly seasonal menu devised by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton. Another benefit of the lounge experience is that VIPs are allowed two guests to join them. “This autumn, we will also have a number of complimentary wellness products within the lounge, exclusively available to our customers, including remedies and little touches to ensure they eat and live well during their journey with us,” adds Malhotra. When it comes to take off, VIPs can choose whether to board the plane first or last after their private security check – we imagine it’ll usually be the latter once their meal has been enjoyed and the sofas sunk into. A car will be on hand to escort guests to the stairs of the aircraft, before the rest of their adventure begins. Heathrow VIP has transformed air travel into a relaxing and discreet experience for the select few who are looking for an extra touch of privacy and luxury, and the team hopes to welcome you soon to enjoy this memorable experience.

“Passengers will be picked up outside their house by a chauffeur-driven BMW 7 series”

heathrowvip.com

Welcome home It may be more than 4,600 miles away from London, but Hannah Lemon decides that relocating to Jamaica â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with every creature comfort and a new family to boot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; might not be so bad

TRAVEL

clockwise from left: cottage 6; the infinity pool in cottage 3; jamaica inn beach; cottage 4

t’s not every day that your hotel room turns out to be a house. As I open the door to my two-floor villa at the Jamaica Inn, I can’t help giggling with childlike glee, sprinting barefoot upstairs to my four-poster bed, the white cotton canopy billowing in the sea breeze like sails, to perform a running jump onto the fluffy pillows. I spend the next half an hour wandering around the rooms. Downstairs: an open kitchenette-sitting room, terrace with plunge pool, and private outdoor staircase to the ocean. Upstairs: a vast bedroom, balcony with outdoor shower, bathroom with indoor shower and bath, and a walk-in dressing room.

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My villa sits serenely at one end of the Jamaica Inn grounds on the famous Caribbean isle, surrounded by a smattering of other cottages, each with panoramic views of the azure sea. The rest of the 52 suites are attached to the main building of the hotel and come with their own startling panorama of the ocean. Interaction with the lush surrounds is actively encouraged here, as people enjoy breakfast on their balcony above the beach or fling the windows wide on their private terrace. The legendary Jamaica Inn was once the go-to destination for the glitterati and literati. Marilyn Monroe and her husband Arthur Miller honeymooned here, while Noël Coward, T.S. Eliot, Errol Flynn and Sir Winston Churchill also soaked up the sun on private sojourns. The old-school glamour and colonial history of the island still hang in the air, even if the clientele has changed (Lily Allen and Sir Richard Branson are among recent visitors). Faded sepia pictures of Hollywood’s famous faces enjoying dinner line the walls of the main building’s musky study, while owners Eric and Peter Morrow maintain the family feel of the place. Their father, Charlie, set up

I spend my days relaxing in a hammock with one of Teddy’s (strong) rum punches and playing croquet in the sun the hotel with his friend Matthew Archibald in 1958. Many of the staff members are ‘lifers’ too. Among them is Teddy, who has worked at the hotel for 58 years and had his beach bar christened ‘Teddy’s Bar’ to mark the occasion. His stooping figure and wiry limbs make me wonder how he’s still going, but put on some music and you’ll find him dancing along the beach, serving drinks like he’s 20 again. It makes me consider that the international reputation of the island’s reported crime culture does serious disservice to the friendly people serving the tourism trade. Ocho Rios, where the hotel is located, was once a fishing port and now acts as the coastline for several four- and five-star hotels. Life is slow-paced and a walk around town highlights the chilled-out nature of locals, with whom the hotel encourages guests to strike up a rapport. I am taken to the food market to check out local ingredients: from cassava, ackee and breadfruit to the more recognisable sugar cane sticks, plantain and coconuts. When we get back to the hotel, chef Maurice demonstrates how to serve it up in traditional Caribbean style and is thrilled when my fellow guests and I smack our lips together in delight.

TRAVEL

A ten-minute boat trip to Dunn’s River Falls and Park is a worthwhile jaunt to see Jamaica at its best. It is one of only a few waterfalls in the world that empties directly into the sea. The current has created natural steps out of the rock to the top of the hill, which tourists can walk up with the help of a guide. The foliage is home to a number of insects, and at one point I flinch when I see a giant spider and its nest of black eggs. For a more genteel approach to nature, turtle watching in Oracabessa Bay is another option (about 20 minutes by car). Mel Tennant (aka The Turtle Man) works with a number of luxury hotels to provide a narrative of the reproduction, survival and conservation of these placid creatures. Donations help to keep his business alive, as well as to educate locals on the importance of local marine wildlife. Not only does his knowledge of turtles inspire, Tennant’s anecdotes of flirtations with famous rockers are equally entertaining and I begin to wonder if there is an A-lister he hasn’t met. Back at the ranch, it’s a quiet loll from villa to beach to restaurant. When I return, staff greet me with a “welcome home” – and it starts to feel

clockwise from TOP left: jamaica inn beach; cottage 5; cottage 3; ocean spa moonlight massage; cottage 6

that way. R&R is the key objective here and it proves to be the perfect setting for a romantic retreat, with the hotel often used as a venue for weddings. I spend my days relaxing in a hammock with one of Teddy’s (strong) rum punches, playing croquet in the sun and visiting the treehouse-style spa to enjoy a full body massage to the sound of waves lapping the shore. Each morning, I am woken cheerily by the bright blue views and make the most of the experience before the rest of the guests wake up for breakfast. A few steps down the private staircase on the bluff outside my villa and I’m in the water swimming from my cove to the main beach. I pull a kayak into the sea (water activities, which also include paddle boarding and sailing, are complimentary), and paddle around the private bay watching the waves ripple further out to sea. Breakfast can be taken in your room (I dine al fresco on my balcony one morning – one of the better ways to enjoy a full English), or in the restaurant. Open to the elements, nothing starts the day off better than a fruit juice and a pile of pancakes on the open veranda. Lunch is a relaxed affair on the beach, while guests are encouraged to dress up for dinner in the hotel to match the colonial vibe – linen slacks for men and cocktail dresses for women. Caribbean seafood dishes are served alongside more traditional European plates of duck breast or steak. I feel like I’ve settled in with a new family at Jamaica Inn – Maurice, Teddy, Mel and the whole gang add a unique charm to the place. They say home is where the heart is, and a little piece of mine will always be here. From $329 (approx. £270), jamaicainn.com

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R S u i t e d rea m s

Fawsley Hall Hotel & Spa Words: Hannah Lemon

ichard, Richard, Richard, Edmund, Valentine, Richard, Valentine – it’s hard work keeping up with the generations of Knightleys, largely due to the fact that they kept naming their sons after themselves. The family arrived in England with William the Conquerer in the 1400s and set up home in Fawsley Hall, a royal manor that had been built in the seventh century. With new inhabitants came new renovations – including the south wing, where Queen Elizabeth I was received in 1575 while her palaces were being cleaned, and the Georgian wing in the early 18th century. Sadly the line of Knightleys came to an end at the beginning of the 20th century with the death of Rainald Knightley and his wife Louisa, and the contents of the estate were auctioned off a year later. Surrounded by abundant Northamptonshire countryside in the small hamlet of Fawsley, the medieval building now sits in the Hand Picked Hotels collection of 20 boutique historic country houses, owned by financier Guy Hands and his wife Julia. There are only a handful of things to see in the surrounding area (notably, Blenheim Palace, Bicester Village and Warwick Castle, just under an hour away), so this retreat is more about indulging in a little ‘me’ time and revisiting your history of art degree. The architecture at Fawsley Hall is a fascinating mismatch of styles from past centuries thanks to the Knightleys (yes, probably the Richards). Not only is there the Georgian wing with Gothic influences and the Elizabethan hall, created for Elizabeth I’s arrival; but the grounds are a valuable example of the work of 18th-century landscape architect Capability Brown and the north wing the work of 19th-century architect Anthony Salvin.

TRAVEL

And we haven’t even got to the bedrooms yet. Each suite is named after nobles and aristocrats linked to the building. The crème de la crème is the Queen Elizabeth master suite, fit for royalty with a fourposter bed and ornate bath tub. However, it is the Louisa Mary Bowater that I will be staying in, named after the last Lady Knightley of the house. It’s an impressive space with chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and plush velvet curtains. The room looks down over the box garden below and has a panorama across the surrounding farmland, where you can see speckles of sheep and hear their distant bleats. Before check-in, my guest and I head to the spa, where we spend the next five hours being pampered. We opt for a 55-minute body scrub (there are special rates for spa packages should this be your idea, too), followed by a a back, neck and shoulder massage. Afterwards, we lounge outside in the remaining rays of the summer sun and plop in and out of the heated outdoor jacuzzi. There is also a sauna and steam room to relax in, although the latter is somewhat disappointing with only a light splutter of steam and a slightly stale smell of damp. This doesn’t stop us from indulging in the facilities, though, and we buy two mugs of ginger tea and sip them on a sun lounger. Buffed and moisturised from head to toe, we get ready for dinner and head down to the Cedar Restaurant. It feels like we’ve journeyed back to Tudor times, surrounded by grey flagstone floors and branches of wax candles hovering around the room. The menu, however, is far more modern. My guest opts for the generously sized fishcake starter, while I spoon up a decadently creamy goat’s cheese panna cotta. This is followed by sea bream with crab and dill fishcakes and a rump of steak. Both are comfortingly filling and the fresh, seasonal flavours seem in perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape.

The architecture at Fawsley Hall is a fascinating mismatch of styles

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We have a little space for dessert and order two crème brûlées, which are daintily decorated with summer fruits. Finally, we adjourn to the Tudor Bar for a nightcap and I feel my waistband straining under the pressure, much how I envisage Henry VIII’s would be at this point. As I take the first sip of my sweet whisky sour, I toast the Richards, Edmunds and Valentines and the lovely legacy they have left behind. Louisa Mary Bowater suite, from £374, Fawsley, Daventry, Northamptonshire, NN11, handpickedhotels.co.uk CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE CEDAR RESTAURANT; THE LOUISE MARY BOWATER SUITE; HOT TUB AT THE FAWSLEY HALL SPA; THE TUDOR BAR; EXTERIOR SHOTS OF THE GROUNDS DESIGNED BY CAPABILITY BROWN

ome towns have perfected their specialities so well that it is a wonder, upon visiting for the first time, how you have not done so before. In the small spa town of Baden-Baden, these are its public baths (the 4,000 sq m Caracalla, or nudist at Friedrichsbad), an assortment of luxury boutiques, and scenic walks that end in a generous slice of the region’s eponymous Black Forest gâteau (Schwarzwälder kirschtorte). Baden-Baden sits at the north-western edge of the forest, which extends for another three hours’ drive southwards. It is the sophisticated sister to the chocolate box, cuckoo clock and watchmaking destinations below it – nonetheless rewarding to explore by car. Other cultural sites are few (the Fabergé and Frieder Burdaamong museums among them), but natural sights certainly are not. The Merkur funicular and Mercury watchtower at its summit affords the best panorama of both the town and the sprawling forest in every direction. An accidental turn might take you downhill on foot; a treasurable amble in itself, and far preferable to the particularly steep uphill climb. The prettiest walk, however, is down Lichtentaler Allee. Dahlia, rose and botanical gardens are dotted along a river, with overgrown bridges and houses along the way. Like these fantasy-land gardens, the town is meticulously well kept. At night, cultural and outdoor concerts are held year-round, and the town’s casino comes alive. It may not be as grand as its Monégasque counterpart, but is much more welcoming for amateurs (smart casual attire is advisable). As to the question of Schwarzwälder kirschtorte, it should be settled that the best is sliced at Café Konig, in the middle of Baden-Baden. In fact, its entire selection of cakes is to be reckoned with. Returning to its pink and white canopied seating is inevitable.

brenners parkhotel restaurant

gre at e s ca p e

Baden-Baden In the picturesque Black Forest, this well-kept spa town, where portions are generous, makes an impression on Camilla Apcar hotel belle epoque

Lichtentaler Allee

cafe konig’s black forest cake

caracalla spa

travel

Where to stay In a villa built in 1874, Hotel Belle Epoque’s 20 individually decorated rooms bring more than a touch of French grandeur across the border. The attention to detail is impressive, attractive and not at all oppressive (Louis XVI chandeliers, huge bathtubs concealed by a mere curtain and gilded antiques trump homogenous contemporary design). Although the hotel does not have its own restaurant, breakfast is served overlooking the trickling fountain in its secluded courtyard and dinner can be booked at its sister establishment, Der Kleine Prinz, just around the corner. From €250, slh.com

brenners park-hotel’s 1967 vw beetle

Where to eat

the baden-baden casino

Fine dining in the Black Forest is a Michelin-starred affair. Some of these delights are a while away, but Brenners-Park Hotel & Spa holds two stars all to itself. There are sevencourse menus, but ordering à la carte is just as satisfying – and hard to go wrong (pigeon, crab, curd cheese soufflé). Chef Paul Stradner’s Austrian salmon recipe is available to download online, but good luck making flavoursome seaweed jelly cubes and perfect dollops of miso and Mizkan cream back at home. brenners.com

Mayfair recommends A VW Samba minibus, a 1967 convertible Beetle or a Porsche 928: your choice of wheels says a lot at Brenners, which offers these three vintage models for a spin. The forest’s main touring roads are well surfaced and mercifully wide: there are no endless switchbacks or treacherous pass roads. Although this may disappoint some enthusiasts, it makes going full throttle all the more tempting. From €180, brenners.com

SUITCASE E S S E N T I A L S

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09/08/2017 21:54

Regulars

R e m e m b e r i ng M AYFA I R

Denman & Goddard W o r d s : T OR I B E R K O W I t Z

ounded in Eton in 1853 by Edward Denman and Henry Goddard, the Denman & Goddard tailoring house became known for its fine handmade bespoke suits, both for the school’s uniforms and for its own clients. In the mid 1980s, Hicks & Sons, a tailor established in 1797 and trading mainly in the ‘New World’, was incorporated into the company and helped further establish the reputation of the business. The firm held Royal Warrants for King George V and King George VI to provide livery to servants in the Royal household, and was called upon to supply and maintain the uniforms worn by the ceremonial gatekeepers of the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot racecourse. This rich history is well documented. The Victoria and Albert Museum’s Archive of Art and Design includes some of the firm’s original garments and working papers that date back to the early 20th century. The documents detail design patterns for menswear of that era such as suits, trousers and military apparel. There are even instructions outlining how to create each piece, including appropriate variations for all shapes and sizes.

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Remarkably, the tailors still use the same techniques, which have been passed down from master to apprentice

Remarkably, the tailors at Denman & Goddard still use these same techniques, which have been passed from master to apprentice, as has been the way for centuries. The current chairman of Denman & Goddard, Peter Day, joined the company’s board in 1992, after more than 25 years’ experience as a master tailor in Savile Row, and CEO David Cook – who has had an equally distinguished career – joined him a few years later. Considering themselves custodians of the business, they ensure that emphasis is placed on Denman & Goddard’s traditional bespoke service. The firm still values apprenticeships, too. Joe Holsgrove is one trainee who has spent five years learning his craft as a coatmaker using goose (non-steam) irons and a treadle sewing machine. Despite the antiquated apparatus and systems, there is no request that cannot be completed. Whether it’s a travel suit to match the upholstery in a client’s private jet or a farmer’s jacket made with wool from his own flock of sheep, you name it, these tailors can make it. And all by hand. 11 St George Street, W1S, denmangoddard.co.uk

From top: CEO David Cook, Associate Director Joe Holsgrove and Chairman Peter Day; the workshop in 1905 with tailors using the dry irons; a denman & goddard tailor using the same style of dry iron today

Mayfair estate agents Beauchamp Estates 24 Curzon Street, W1J 7TF 020 7499 7722

Crayson 10 Lambton Place W11 2SH 020 7221 1117 crayson.com

London, Mayfair and St James’s 127 Mount Street, W1K 3NT 020 7493 0676

Mayfair

Savills

120a Mount Street W1K 3NN 020 7499 1012 (sales and lettings)

Mayfair and St James’s 36 North Audley Street W1K 6ZJ 020 7578 5100 (sales and lettings)

Hyde Park

Beauchamp Estates Private Office 29 Curzon Street, W1J 7TL 020 7408 0007 beauchamp.com

carter jonas

Knight Frank

Dexters 66 Grosvenor Street W1K 3JL 020 7590 9590 (sales) 020 7590 9595 (lettings) dexters.co.uk

1 Craven Terrace W2 3QD 020 7871 5060 (sales) 020 7871 5070 (lettings)

Marylebone and Fitzrovia

Marylebone

Sloane Street

55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 (sales) knightfrank.co.uk

139 Sloane Street SW1X 9AY 020 7730 0822 savills.co.uk

22 Devonshire Street W1G 6PF 020 3527 0400

London, Hyde Park and Bayswater 44 Connaught Street, W2 2AA 020 7402 1552 (sales) 020 7371 3377 (lettings)

Harrods Estates

London, Marylebone and Regent’s Park

82 Brompton Road SW3 1ER 020 7225 6506

37 New Cavendish Street W1G 9TL 020 7486 8866 carterjonas.co.uk

Knightsbridge

Mayfair 61 Park Lane W1K 1QF 020 7409 9001 harrodsestates.com

Strutt & Parker Pastor Real Estate Ltd 11 Curzon Street W1J 5HJ 020 3879 8989 (sales)

London Head Office 13 Hill Street, W1J 5LQ 020 7629 7282

Knightsbridge 48 Curzon Street W1J 7UL 020 3195 9595 (lettings) pastor-realestate.com

66 Sloane Street, SW1X 9SH 020 7235 9959 struttandparker.com

Rokstone 5 Dorset Street W1U 6QJ 020 7580 2030 rokstone.com

Wetherell 102 Mount Street W1K 2TH 020 7493 6935 wetherell.co.uk

ChestertonS

Mayfair

47 South Audley Street W1K 2QA 020 7629 4513 (sales) 020 7288 8301 (lettings)

Westminster and Pimlico 10 Gillingham Street, SW1V 1HJ 020 3411 8386 (sales) chestertons.com

HUMBERTS 48 Berkeley Square W1J 5AX 020 3284 1888 humberts.com

For estate agent listings please contact Sophie Roberts at s.roberts@runwildgroup.co.uk

showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Forward

THINKING Experts reveal their research and predictions for the months ahead

image courtesy of pastor real estate

OVERLOOKING THE MOUNT STREET GARDENS, SOUTH STREET MAYFAIR W1K

AN EXQUISITELY REFURBISHED SECOND FLOOR APARTMENT WITH BALCONY

349925 Savills-MayfairMag_Sept17.indd 1

Mayfair

020 7499 1012 KnightFrank.co.uk

03/08/2017 11:22

Sussex Square, Hyde Park W2 Wonderful six bedroom family house with lift access and private roof terrace Arranged over five floors, this generously proportioned freehold home is ideally situated within the prestigious Hyde Park Estate and is perfect for entertaining and family living. The property provides lift access to the upper floors and features a large private roof terrace. 6 bedrooms (all en suite), separate dressing room, reception room, dining room, kitchen, utility room, guest cloakroom, storage vaults, roof terrace, lift access. EPC: E. Approximately 513 sq m (5,520 sq ft).

KnightFrank.co.uk/hydepark hydepark@knightfrank.com 020 3544 6140

Freehold

Guide price: £8,500,000

@CentralLondonKF KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/HPE170086

11:22

Mayfair Mag September 2017 - 80 Sussex Square

11/08/2017 10:26:46

FOUND. Your perfect tenant. Let with Knight Frank Our local expertise and global network mean that we can find a reliable tenant for your property; and with an average tenancy of nearly two years, Knight Frank not only helps you find them – but keep them as well. Call us today on 020 8166 7799 to arrange your free market valuation. Guide price: £2,295 per week

Jermyn Street, St James's SW1Y

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A superb penthouse apartment situated in St James's. Spread across two floors, the property is immaculately presented and is finished to a high standard with modern furnishings. 3 bedrooms,3 bathrooms, reception room, dining room, kitchen, guest cloakroom, lift and 3 balconies. Available furnished. EPC: C. Approximately 174 sq m (1,837 sq ft). mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7799

All potential tenants should be advised that as well as rent, an administration fee of £276 and referencing fees of £48 per person will apply when renting a property. Please ask us for more information about other fees that may apply or visit KnightFrank.co.uk/tenantcharges

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

Guide price: £3,000 per week

North Row, Mayfair W1K Making perfect use of light and space, this property is sitauted in the highly sought after Park House Apartments. 2 bedrooms (both en suite), reception room with open plan kitchen, 24 hour concierge, allocated parking. Available furnished. EPC: D. Approximately 178 sq m (1,919 sq ft). mayfairlettings@knightfrank.com Office: 020 8166 7799

Mayfair Mag September

11/08/2017 15:33:25

property

market

insight A done deal Partner and head of Knight Frank Mayfair, Harvey Cyzer, reports on the highs and lows of the global property market

cross the prime markets, there is evidence that demand is picking up. The number of exchanges in prime central London recorded between January and May was 14.2 per cent and 8.7 per cent higher respectively than the same period in 2016 and 2015. While there was an element of hesitation ahead of the general election vote in June, anecdotal evidence suggests activity has been relatively healthy in the following period, in particular as a greater degree of flexibility emerges in relation to asking prices. Furthermore, leading indicators of demand suggest the number of transactions will continue to strengthen in the second half of this year. The number of new prospective buyers registering with Knight Frank was 15 per cent higher in the first five months of the year compared to 2016, and the figure was six per cent up on 2015. Meanwhile, viewing levels were up by a fifth compared to last year and the amount of stock under offer was up by 36 per cent, suggesting the future flow of exchanges will remain strong. Across the rest of England, activity also rose in the prime market, with sales volumes rising by more than a half between April and May

compared to the same period in 2016, and by 29 per cent compared to 2015. The housing market is characterised by constrained activity at present, as uncertainty over the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economic path and the increased burden of property taxes in some parts weigh on transactions. However, low mortgage rates and a lack of homes coming onto the market for sale are acting as firm anchors for pricing. Prices were flat in prime central London for the second consecutive month in June, a trend that provides further evidence that the price falls seen in 2016 are unlikely to be repeated this year. Despite flat pricing in the past two months, on an annual basis prices fell 6.3 per cent in the 12 months to the end of June. Meanwhile, the quarterly figure of -0.3 per cent was the lowest quarterly fall recorded since early 2016. Knight Frank data confirms an improvement in market activity compared to last year, aided by the pricing adjustment that has taken place over the past two and a half years as buyers and sellers adapt to higher rates of stamp duty.

The price falls seen in 2016 are unlikely to be repeated, despite flat pricing in the past two monhts

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Knight Frank Mayfair, 120a Mount Street, W1K, 020 8166 7484, knightfrank.co.uk

105

Ready for action Jonathan Fieldman, Knight Frank’s Mayfair sales associate, reveals the inner workings of its core market to Camilla Apcar

n July, Knight Frank’s Mayfair office conducted a record number of viewings across the company’s central London offices. “I think I lost a stone that month,” jokes Jonathan Fieldman, the office’s associate. This may not have been in the job description when he joined Knight Frank five months ago, having spent the previous five years in the London sales market. Fieldman focuses on properties up to £4.5m across Mayfair, St James’s, Covent Garden and Soho. Properties below £3m are the main sellers within this bracket (the team agreed on five one-bedroom apartments in July). Those between £3m and £4m are “more challenging”, says Fieldman. “Once you get to that level, decision making becomes more problematic due to aspects such as stamp duty. But it’s like anything: if the pricing is correct, it will sell in a reasonable timeframe.” One reason is that vendors in the area are very discretionary sellers, can be in less of a rush and are more concerned with getting the right price. “We are here to give advice,” says Fieldman. “If it is the incorrect price, we’ll advise them.” It might be that a property could stay on the market for a year or more. Or, as in a prime residential case a few weeks ago, a property in the region of £15m sold for its asking price a year later. Much can depend on who happens to be in the area when a property launches. “Nationalities of buyers are interesting and varied. We’ve had quite a number of buyers from Turkey recently, as well as investors or end users from China and Hong Kong,” says

property

Fieldman. “European buyers are rarer.” Certain blocks continue to attract any number of purchasers, he continues, such as in the Albany. Its residents include actors, authors and barristers, and those hoping to move in must first be approved by every other owner. “In the current market, in some cases we’re achieving prices that were seen in 2014,” says Fieldman. “If buyers are going to own a flat for ten to 15 years, then such issues are less of a concern.” The matter of Brexit, he continues, does not really enter the equation.

than asking price, the argument is that if the owner were more motivated to sell, it would be formally advertised. “We currently have about 50 per cent of sub-£4.5m market stock that’s on in Mayfair and St James’s,” says Fieldman. “According to LonRes data, 75 per cent of flat sales in St James’s this year have taken place through us.” Knight Frank has about 55 properties on the market at moment in this price bracket; 35 in Mayfair. “We are seeing inflated numbers of instructions recently,” he continues. With the ammunition of record prices and pitch packs full of statistics backing up the agent’s reputation, “you are rather more like an adviser than an estate agent”. June and July were busy months, as Fieldman has noted. “Our sales team were in the office until eight o’clock every evening, and working Saturdays.” Even in quieter periods, Knight Frank updates its clients with reports on a property’s performance. Yet Fieldman predicts a very busy end to the year. “Over the past three years, there was one issue after the other – stamp duty, Brexit, the general election... Prices have adjusted now and buyers are back out. I think it’s got to the breaking point where people want to take action. “I think it’s a great time to buy at the moment, and if you’ve got a property in a brilliant location you will still get record prices. People will wait.”

“Buyers are back out. It’s got to the breaking point where people want to take action” With an adjustment in prices across the board, some buyers registering in Mayfair are altering their search towards Covent Garden or Soho. “They are able to find a property perhaps a third bigger, but only a 15-minute walk away. Parents like it because there’s a huge amount going on and it’s close to some of the universities.” Some may put properties in their children’s names. There are currently fewer ‘off market’ properties in the sub-£4.5m range, “however, if you are looking to achieve the highest price for your property, we advise implementing a full marketing strategy”, says Fieldman. “This will only aid the property’s exposure and open it up to a potentially wider audience.” However, off-market transactions can equate to paying more, not getting a discount. If a buyer comes with a lower

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

Knight Frank Mayfair, 120a Mount Street, W1K, 020 8166 7484, knightfrank.co.uk

Hot properties

134 Latymer House, £4.25m Stunning views across Green Park and the London skyline from a sixth-floor two-bedroom apartment

73 St James’s, £2.65m Situated within one of the area’s most prestigious period blocks, with St James’s Park, Mayfair and Piccadilly on the doorstep

33 Berkeley House, £1.375m A one-bedroom apartment with original features, moments from Berkeley Square, with a porter and concierge service

107

THE LANCASTERS HYDE PARK W2 A BEAUTIFUL 3 BEDROOM DUPLEX APARTMENT WITH VIEWS OVER HYDE PARK This 4th and 5th floor duplex apartment, in a sought-after building, is luxuriously finished and offers magnificent views over Hyde Park. As well as a contemporary dining/kitchen featuring integrated Miele appliances, there is Crestron lighting and a comfort cooling system. The bathrooms have chromium brassware by Fantini, with beautiful Spanish and Italian marble tiling to walls and floors. Accommodation: Entrance hall, reception/dining room, kitchen/dining room, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms. Amenities: Lift access, 24-hour concierge, valet parking, secure underground parking, gym, swimming pool, steam room.

£4,999,950 Leasehold Joint sole agents

Paul Finch paul@beauchamp.com +44 (0) 20 7158 0915

www.beauchamp.com www.beauchamp.com · · 2424Curzon CurzonStreet, Street,London LondonW1J W1J7TF 7TF · · +44 +44(0)20 (0)207158 71580915 0915

AVENFIELD HOUSE MAYFAIR SW1 A SPECTACULAR THREE BEDROOM LATERAL APARTMENT OVERLOOKING HYDE PARK Finished to an exceptionally high standard and located in one of Mayfairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest residences, Avenfield House offers grand lateral space and breathtaking views of Hyde Park. Recently refurbished, this stunning penthouse is perfect for entertaining. Accommodation: Entrance hall, double reception room, kitchen, dining room, 2 bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, bedroom 3 with ensuite shower room, guest cloakroom, study. Amenities: Utility room, 24-hour concierge, underground parking.

£6,500 / Week

Karolina@beauchamp.com

No tenant fees

+44 (0)20 7205 2481

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www.pastor-realestate.com

TO LET: CURZON STREET, MAYFAIR W1

£995 p/w - Furnished

2 Double Bedrooms I Reception Room I Open Plan Kitchen I Roof Terrace I 2 Bathrooms I Quiet Location Contemporary penthouse duplex with roof terrace set within a secluded Mayfair block, with lift and concierge close to Berkeley Square. High specification with solid wood flooring, dual aspect living area, en-suite master bed with feature bath and balcony.

TO LET: GLOUCESTER SQUARE, HYDE PARK W2

£2250 p/w - Furnished

3 Double Bedrooms I Magnificent Double Reception Room I Eat-in Kitchen I Period Building I Interior Designed Striking three bedroom apartment with access to private garden square close to Connaught Village and Hyde Park. Ideal for entertaining, with high ceilings and period features, the property is finished to an exceptional standard of décor and interior design.

FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL LETTINGS CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3195 9595 lettings@pastor-realestate.com 48 Curzon Street, London, W1J 7UL

FOR SALE: BEAUCHAMP MANSIONS, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW3

Â£2,500,000

2/3 Bedroom | Newly Refurbished | Lift | Knightsbridge A brand new 2/3 bedroom apartment due for completion in November 2017. Spanning 87 sq m (936 sq ft), the apartment is currently undergoing a full refurbishment programme to exacting standards. Leasehold 126 years.

FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL SALES CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3879 8989 sales@pastor-realestate.com 11 Curzon Street, London, W1J 5HJ

Mayfair Showroom 66 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 3JL 28 offices in Central London and over 60 across London

Green Street, W1K £7,250,000

A six bedroom penthouse apartment located within this attractive period house with south facing views over the private gardens of Green Street. With direct lift access, there is a spacious reception room with separate kitchen and dining room, four bathrooms and a roof terrace, energy rating c. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590

Bourdon Street, W1K £3,995,000

Located in the heart of Mayfair, a newly refurbished two double bedroom apartment. The property is ideal for entertaining with a large reception room, modern open plan kitchen and two large west facing windows. There are two bathrooms, a lift and access to a roof garden, energy rating d. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590

dexters.co.uk

Brook Street, W1K £7,995 per week

This attractive seven bedroom family house is arranged over six floors providing spacious and flexible accommodation. There are four reception rooms, seven bathrooms, a lift and the property benefits from one of the largest private gardens in Mayfair, energy rating d. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9595

St. Anselms Place, W1K £3,500 per week

A conveniently positioned low built five bedroom family house in the heart of Mayfair. The property has a large reception room, separate kitchen/dining room and five bathrooms. Further benefits include a large patio garden and two garages, energy rating f. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9595

dexters.co.uk

Tenants fees apply: £180 per tenancy towards administration, £60 reference fee per tenant and £144 towards the end of tenancy check out report (all inc VAT).

TO THE BOOKS Local agents offer their research on the year so far, and forecast the months to come

WHEN TO buy and SELL IN MAYFAIR The percentage of sales by price band per quarter, according to Wetherell Wetherellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s research compiled by Dataloft/LonRes shows that statistically the period from September until the end of the year is usually the busiest time for the Mayfair market. Also, historically the market refreshes after the summer holiday lull, so if you are thinking about buying you will have the best selection of new properties to choose from. wetherell.co.uk

Source: Wetherell Research / Dataloft / LonRes, May 2017

Opportunity knocks David Lee, head of sales at Pastor Real Estate, offers his opinion on the latest trends emerging from the prime central London sales market

espite a whirlwind of change, the Mayfair market has remained particularly active in recent months. This trend is echoed by the latest data, which reveals that transaction levels in Mayfair are around 25 per cent higher this quarter than the same period last year.

Overall, prime central London volumes are more than 50 per cent higher. This increase is due in part to the price correction that has occurred, as illustrated by the decrease in pound per sq ft values across the market. Properties priced appropriately continue to generate significant interest from an international

audience, who still see Mayfair as a relative safe haven. Accounting for 94 per cent of all transactions during the past six months, apartments make up most of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sales. Mayfair will continue to remain price sensitive for the remainder of this year, but few vendors are forced sellers, due to relatively affordable

PROPERTY

average sold price and sales volumes by neighbourhood

lettings forecast Jo Upton, property director at Pegasi

total transactions

average sale price

maximum sale price

source: knight frank research/lonres

The lack in volume of transactions seen in quarter two last year reflects the general election and Brexit – a time of uncertainty for all that caused purchasers to adopt a ‘wait and see policy’. In contrast, quarter four showed a marked rise. Purchasers decided that waiting was no longer an option, adopting a buying mentality. knightfrank.co.uk

holding costs and mortgage rates at unprecedented levels. It seems that rather than waiting any longer, well advised Middle Eastern and Chinese buyers – as well as those purchasing in dollars – are taking full advantage of lower pricing, reduced competition and exchange rates. These purchasers realise that future political decisions and economic forces will influence the market. However, they are also aware that such opportunities do not come along very often. pastor-realestate.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

£2,109,710 average sales price of an

apartment

50.2%

higher than 2016 (Q2 2017 vs Q2 2016)

£4,978,228 Average sales of a house NB small sample 70 sales

While there have been large tax increases for the sales market, bringing further products onto the market for lettings, our properties have not taken any longer to rent this year in comparison to the same period in 2016. For this year’s last quarter, we believe rents will remain largely stable. However, throughout 2017 our rent levels on a rate per night basis have increased, perhaps reflective of our investment in apartments as the prime central London market is widely reported as falling. The market shall experience low activity levels as is usual for this time of year. At the moment, a large percentage of tenants are choosing to stay put and renew their tenancies rather than move, awaiting a clearer position on the economy and potentially their employer’s Brexit plans. The change in mortgage tax relief position, as well as the banning of tenant fees, means private investors will face higher costs in running their portfolios (which could result in limiting the number of properties being purchased as buy-to-let investments). Alternatively, they will not be refurbished to such high standards. The current oversupply of best quality rental stock in prime central London is not expected to last. Indeed, we find that our Grosvenor Square apartments are sometimes let before we can bring them to the market. pegasi.co.uk

117

St James’s Chambers, Ryder Street

London SW1Y

leasehold

A spacious apartment (1720 sq.ft) on the 2nd floor of an impressive period building in St James’s. Comprising hallway, reception room, kitchen/breakfast room, 2 bedrooms, 2 en suites & cloakroom with lift & caretaker. Ryder Street is within close proximity to Jermyn Street that is synonymous for high end clothing boutiques. EPC rating D

chestertons.com

£2,950,000

Mayfair

020 7629 4513

sales.mayfair@chestertons.com

A world famous view only a few will call home Discover London’s new riverfront address The Dumont is the centre-piece of Albert Embankment Plaza, London’s most prestigious new riverfront quarter. Soaring 30 storeys it affords unparalleled views over the most famous stretch of the River Thames and a lifestyle without equal. Facilities include ten-pin bowling, games room, cinema, 12th floor lounge, dining room and roof gardens. Along with a state-of-the-art gym, infinity pool, spa and 24-hour concierge service. A collection of suites, 1, 2 and 3 bedroom apartments with a selection of elegant interiors are available.

Prices from £655,000 Show Apartment now launched – to register your interest please call +44 (0)20 3740 2695 or email dumont.london@stjames.co.uk To discover more visit www.thedumont.co.uk or the Marketing Suite at 21 Albert Embankment. Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm. Prices and details correct at time of going to press. Computer generated image is indicative only.

www.thedumont.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies

020 3284 1888 mayfair@humberts.com

Welbeck Street Marylebone W1G Asking Price: ÂŁ5,600,000 leasehold

48 Berkeley Square, Mayfair London W1J 5AX

A large 4 bedroom lateral apartment of approx. 3,143 sqft, in a prestigious building in prime Marylebone. Boasting numerous period features, high ceilings, lift access, 24 hour porter and a long lease. The property would also benefit from some refurbishment. Close to Selfridges and Mayfair. EPC: D.

David Adams Director 48 Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 5AX T: 020 3284 1888 E: david.adams@humberts.com

HU0202 Mayfair Mag 297x210 SP v3.indd 1

12/08/2017 14:32

ENNISMORE MEWS, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW7 A stunning four bedroom house in the beautiful cobbled Ennismore Mews, situated in the heart of Knightsbridge, one of London’s most desirable locations. This spacious mews house is arranged over four floors and comprises two large reception rooms, a kitchen/dining room, four double bedrooms and five bathrooms. Ennismore Mews is a prime Knightsbridge address close to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. The property offers immediate access to the local shops, bars and restaurants of Knightsbridge, South Kensington and Chelsea.

020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ enquiries@rokstone.com

Price: £6,500,000 »»Freehold Mews House »»Four Double Bedrooms »»Five Bathrooms »»Fully Refurbished »»Approximately 2,927 Sq. Ft. (271.9 Sq. M.)

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To view the newly released suites, 1, 2 & 3 bedroom apartments, contact our sales team on 020 3944 0754 Prices start from ÂŁ750,000 embassygardens.com

PRICES CURRENT AS OF DATE OF PRINT.

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Claimer: These are real residents, who really do live in Embassy Gardens! Images from Instagram @embassygardens #embassygardens

EG_MAYFAIR_MAG_FP_081817.indd 1

18/08/2017 15:30

Grosvenor Square, Mayfair The Grosvenor Square Apartments are located in desirable Mayfair, between the wonderful, green, open spaces of Hyde Park and the vibrant, cosmopolitan bustle of the West End. Luxury retailers are a five minute walk away as are many of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest dining experiences.

Pegasi Management Company Limited 207 Sloane Street London SW1X 9QX E: enquiries@pegasi.co.uk | T: +44 (0)207 245 4500 pegasi.co.uk

A LB E RT E M B A N K M E N T

Enjoy a lifestyle thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ahead of the curve The Corniche, is an exclusive riverside address with panoramic views over the most iconic stretch of the River Thames. With a 19th floor Skyline Club lounge and terrace above a beautifully landscaped piazza, The Corniche, with completions from Winter 2017, features a wealth of luxury amenities including an infinity pool, spa, cinema, gym and a 24-hour concierge. Luxurious three bedroom apartments and penthouses, within the exclusive Skyline Collection, are now available on the 16th floor and above.

Prices from ÂŁ3,600,000 To register your interest please call +44 (0) 20 3733 3520 or email corniche.london@stjames.co.uk To discover more visit www.cornichelondon.co.uk or visit the Marketing Suite on Albert Embankment Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm. Prices and details correct at time of going to press. Computer generated image is indicative only.

www.cornichelondon.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies

Property news PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London

magnificent seven Residential development 77 Mayfair sells out

images courtesy of wetherell

To the polls Londoners asked how to make Grosvenor Square great again

rosvenor is going to the general public for ideas on how best to turn Grosvenor Square into “London’s leading public space for the 21st century”. The landowner is in the process of taking back management of the capital’s second largest square – Lincoln’s Inn Fields is the largest, then Grosvenor, then Trafalgar – from The Royal Parks of London. It is 280 years since it was first developed, and a number of major new schemes are taking shape around it – including highly-

anticipated super-prime plays from Finchatton and Lodha, and Qatari Diar’s forthcoming transformation of the US Embassy building into a five-star hotel and luxury shops. The Shaping the Square campaign will poll 1,000 Londoners, interview local residents and ask visitors about how they’d like to see the space used in the future. Responses will be fed into a professional panel of top names in culture, architecture, horticulture and landscape design, who will oversee an international competition next year.

PrimeQResi JOURNAL OF LUXURY PROPERTY

This will involve a call for proposals to “reclaim Grosvenor Square’s position as one of the capital’s most celebrated public spaces”. The campaign is all part of Grosvenor’s recently published 20-year vision for Mayfair and Belgravia, which aims to futureproof its London estate with “better streets, greener spaces and more enterprising places that appeal to all”. Grosvenor will be investing in the square alongside neighbouring businesses, and promises to keep access free for all, forever.

The seven lateral apartments that make up the new Luxlo 77 Mayfair development have all sold, only one month after the scheme’s completion. On the corner of South Audley and Deanery Streets, the project’s value was more than £130m. It was jointly sold by Knight Frank and Wetherell. Designed by Squire and Partners, the apartments average at 4,000sq ft, and the new building blends with the incorporated original Portland stone façade. Residents will enjoy a private spa and swimming pool complex, treatment rooms, gymnasium dedicated underground parking and a hair salon, all managed by Harrods’ 24-hour concierge service. 77mayfair.com, luxlo.co.uk

images courtesy of wetherell

property

Subterranean security Buying agency secures Park Lane base for ‘London’s most prestigious vault’ In a departure from high-end house and apartment sourcing, Mayfair buying agency Black Brick has secured an off-market bank vault on Park Lane, next to The Dorchester. The acquisition was for the South African owner of IBV International Vaults, Ashok Sewnarain, who has plans for a super-luxe storage concept. The 2,077sq ft subterranean space, formerly leased to Barclays Bank, has been secured on a long lease of 19 years at a passing rent of £172,500 per annum, with a rent-free period to allow for its refurbishment. IBV will be launching the offering in November as “London’s most prestigious vault”, aimed at high-net-worth individuals looking to store their jewels, gold and priceless belongings. Clients will be collected in a chauffeur driven car and driven to the high security premises, where they will enter an opulent entrance, complete with a 24-carat gold flecked pavement, and meet one of the firm’s representatives. More than 3,000 safety boxes will be available in total, and the company also plans to sell gold bars and precious metals from the site. Barclays sold another of its vaults off in 2016 to Chinese Bank ICBC who needed somewhere to store £57bn of gold bullion. The location remains a secret.

the Safety deposit boxes that will be transformed by IBV international Vaults

Chesterfield House in 1760, published in Walford edward’s Old and New London (1878)

On the railings

Chesterfield House railings

Bid to keep important Chesterfield House ironwork in the UK

here’s hope that an important set of 18th-century railings from a Mayfair mansion will stay in the UK, now that a serious buyer has come forward. The historic remnant from Chesterfield House remains one of the most highly decorated examples of ironwork in the country and shows how the craft was used to show social status. Dripping with gilt iron and bronze embellishments, the railings were originally intended to impress guests and be viewed from the ground floor reception rooms of the 4th Earl of Chesterfield’s superlative Mayfair residence. The Earl’s home was built in the 1740s but demolished in 1937 (this directly led to the foundation of The Georgian Group). Culture minister Matt Hancock placed a temporary bar on their export a few months ago after it emerged that they could be headed overseas unless a buyer could match the asking price of £305,000. He said: “More than 80 years after Chesterfield House was sadly torn down, these lavishly decorated railings are a reminder of the opulence of the 18th-century London elite and the wonderful craftsmanship of the time. I hope that a buyer comes forward to help keep them in the UK so that we may enjoy their beauty and learn more about the fascinating ironwork techniques used at the time.” It is thought they were originally supplied by Jean Montigny, a French Catholic immigrant who specialised in wrought iron, for the 1st Duke of Chandos’ pile, Cannons, in Edgware, in the 1720s, before being acquired and modified for Chesterfield House a few years later.

primeresi.com

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

127

Fo rS al e

GREEN STREET £2,500,000 Fo rS al e

SOUTH AUDLEY STREET £3,050,000 Fo rS al e

Fo rS al e

MOUNT STREET £4,000,000

Fo rS al e

MOUNT STREET £6,750,000

GROSVENOR SQUARE £3,750,000

HILL STREET £5,250,000

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Weth

MAYFAIRâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST VISIBLE SPECIALIST WHETHER YOU VISIT OUR CORNER OFFICE, OUR NEW WEBSITE OR FOLLOW OUR SOCIAL MEDIA, WETHERELL IS THE MOST VISIBLE SPECIALIST AGENT FOR MAYFAIR

Sales

Rentals

wetherell.co.uk

11:39

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PROPERTY

Hidden in the market Wetherell introduces an architecturally and aesthetically striking property to the rental market

n-keeping with Shepherd Market’s charmingly unconventional nature, a highly unusual property is now available to let in Mayfair Row – a new gated development tucked away on a cobbled mews. It is also, conveniently, mere steps from the market’s best restaurants, boutiques and galleries. The townhouse has been likened to the shell of a nautilus: a marine mollusc that boasts a logarithmic spiral, coined the spira mirabilis (marvellous spiral) by the 17thcentury mathematician Jacob Bernoulli. This wonder of nature has a sequence of chambers that allow the animal to propel itself forward through the ocean. Akin to these chambers, the floors of this three-storey property get smaller as they descend into the

130

basement (not to worry though, as they still make up a total area of 3,310sq ft). This ‘upside down’ subterranean layout doesn’t detract from the amount of sun the space receives, however. An atrium pierces the centre of the property and allows natural light to flow generously through the house. This central section is also accessible via the lower basement floor, providing a secluded, courtyard space ideal for entertaining guests. The master bedroom suite encompasses the entirety of this lower basement level, including an extravagant walk-in wardrobe and ‘his and hers’ bathrooms, both finished in indulgent white marble. There is also a lightwell-cum-terrace, which can be accessed through the bedroom. Up the curved staircase that winds around the exterior wall on the middle floor, there are two further en-suite bedrooms. The ground floor comprises an open-plan kitchen and dining area, which seats eight. The bold black kitchen was imported from the contemporary TM Italia, and includes a breakfast bar. The rest of the décor is modern yet homely, with a pearlescent palette – corresponding to the nautilus’ iridescent interior, which is often polished and used to make trinkets, jewellery and osmeña pearls. Just like this beguiling sea creature, the most spectacular aspect of this private, cosy and plush property is what can be found inside. 4 Mayfair Row, Shepherd Street, W1J is available to let for £4,250 per week, Wetherell, 020 7529 5566, wetherell.co.uk

s l u x u ry l o n d o n . c o. u k s

HAYS MEWS Seven Storey Townhouse with Private Roof Terrace, Lift to all Floors and Garaging. ÂŁ7,350,000 Freehold

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7529 5566 E: sales@wetherell.co.uk

JSA: Knight Frank

wetherell.co.uk

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell

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16/08/2017 10:46

available from 15th of september

28143 Creed Viking_300x232_Mayfair Times Ad.indd 1

16/08/2017 17:01