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CONTENTS January 2017 Regulars
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10 Editor’s letter 12 Five minutes with... Councillor Steve Summers, The Lord Mayor of Westminster 14 The agenda A cultural round-up of what to read, see and do this January 60 Sun worship Bohemian dresses and vibrant silk scarves inspired by the dusky landscape of Morocco
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A matter of size Monumental sculptures gain momentum with artists and gallerists 56 One in Emilia Designer Emilia Wickstead on motherhood, travel and wardobe detoxing 94 Jump for Java Explore coral kingdoms and jungle temples in Indonesia 98 Living the high life Ski or snowboard in style at this Courchevel gem
Features 18 All aboard A new photographic compendium tells the history of the Orient Express 22 Weisz woman The Oscar-winning actress Rachel Weisz talks ageism in Hollywood
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22 77 © DENIS MAKARENKO
26 The unusual suspects Extraordinary travel experiences to add to your bucket list 32 The billionaire business The secret of the Rigby family’s business success
35 Collection
53 Fashion
80 Health & beauty
92 Travel
45 Art & antiques
73 Interiors
87 Food & drink
103 Property
EDITOR’S LETTER
editor
From the JANUARY 2017 s ISSUE 008
Acting Editor Lauren Romano Assistant Editor Melissa Emerson Contributing Editors Hannah Lemon Camilla Apcar Kari Colmans Collection Editors Olivia Sharpe Richard Brown Editorial Assistant Marianne Dick Editorial Intern James Coney Brand Consistency Laddawan Juhong Senior Designer Daniel Poole Design Intern Paris Fielder Production Hugo Wheatley Jamie Steele Danny Lesar Alice Ford General Manager Fiona Fenwick Executive Director Sophie Roberts Managing Director Eren Ellwood
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“The world is a book, and those who do not travel only read one page” St Augustine New Year’s resolutions rarely last, which is why we’ve decided to ditch the calorie counting and clock up air miles instead, taking a little inspiration from this month’s travel issue. On a mission to tick off more unusual holiday destinations from our bucket list, we uncover everything from adrenalin-fuelled espionage adventures to shipwreck dives in French Polynesia (p.26), and reflect on the golden age of travel (p.18). In its heyday few modes of transport could surpass the decadence and thrill of the Orient Express, as a new book published by Assouline reveals. From spies to love trysts, find out why the legend lives on. For those of us not heading off to sunnier climes, Rachel Weisz hits cinema screens this month playing acclaimed historian Deborah E. Lipstadt in Denial. The north-west London-born star talks ageism in Hollywood, missing life in Regent’s Park and why there’s no chance she’ll be the first female Bond. Grab a green juice and turn to page 22 to read more.
Lauren Romano Acting Editor
On the
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IMAGE CREDIT: MAX MARA S/S17 COLLECTION. READ MORE ON PAGE 55.
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REGULARS
5 MINUTES WITH...
I have the best job in the world. As Lord Mayor of Westminster, I am the ‘first citizen’ of the district. I still have to pinch myself when I hear that.
I meet and thank people who do amazing things for the local community. There are too many people from all walks of life who don’t get thanked enough. me and said: “So you are in his patch.” It was wonderful to hear.
There’s a flat for me in City Hall. Although I don’t use it.
I’ve done some unusual things for the job. I did a shift with
I live in Vincent Square, the ward I represent.
street sweepers on my hands and knees scraping chewing gum off pavements in Covent Garden. And I’ve been to Norway to cut the Christmas tree down for Trafalgar Square.
The parlour in my office has the best views. I can see St Paul’s Cathedral, the Shard and Changing the Guard outside Buckingham Palace.
To become Lord Mayor, you have to spend ten years as a city councillor. After I was elected last May, I left the council meeting in the designated Rolls-Royce.
I love wearing the robe and chain. They’re amazing
I love sport. I was lucky to run
THE LORD MAYOR OF
WESTMINSTER Councillor Steve Summers reveals the perks of wearing centuries-old robes
icebreakers. People will always come up to talk to me when I have them on.
I grew up in Newcastle. I came to London when I was 18 as an undergraduate at UCL. I was adamant not to stay in London – I’ve been here ever since.
I have three mace bearers and chauffeurs and four people in administration. I am indebted to the team around me.
Mayfair is one of my favourite parts of London.
I was recently in the receiving line for a visiting head of state with top military personnel, the Prime Minister and the Foreign Secretary. When the Queen got to me, she said to the President of Columbia, “This is my Lord Mayor of Westminster”. She beamed at 12
Westminster’s sport and leisure department for five years and was responsible for preparations for the 2012 Olympics. I am a member of Surrey Cricket Club and a Newcastle football fan, which is really stressful because we always seem to be losing.
You are in the heart of the capital. Everything sparkles there.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: THE LORD MAYOR OF WESTMNSTER STEVE SUMMERS; NEWCASTLE UNITED FC CREST ©CHRIS DORNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK; OLYMPIC RINGS ©JULIUS KIELAITIS/SHUTTERSTOCK; HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II ©SHAUN JEFFERS/SHUTTERSTOCK; NEWCASTLE ©CEDRIC WEBER/SHUTTERSTOCK
“I love wearing the robe and chain, They are amazing icebreakers”
I’ll always be remembered for being a young Lord Mayor. It’s great – I want to inspire young people to think that they can do it too.
My parents taught me to be proud of where I’m from and who I am, to strive for my dreams and never let anyone tell me I can’t do something. s L U X U RY L O N D O N . C O. U K s
UNMISSABLE SALE 1 ST – 29 TH JANUARY
Ligne Roset Westend 23/25 Mortimer Street 020 7323 1248 www.ligne-roset-westend.co.uk
New season of sport
The agenda Local news and events from in and around the area WORDS:MELISSA EMERSON IMAGE COURTESY OF STUART MANLEY
In your corner Chiltern Street is now home to BXR, a new 12,000 sq ft membersonly boxing gym backed by IBF heavyweight champion Anthony Joshua. Featuring a full-size boxing ring and a team of ex-champion boxers, top sports therapists and osteopaths, members can expect to be treated in the same way as the professionals. Founding annual memberships from £1,500, bxrlondon.com
OUT & ABOUT
Slow shopping Beauty pop-up store No.6 Mortimer is designed for those who like to shop in the slow lane. Stocked with cult brands from Origins and Bumble and Bumble to LAB Series and Clinique, the concept shop is centred around a large communal table. As well as providing a handy space for its interactive workshops, the seating area gives shoppers the chance to pull up a chair while deciding whether or not they really need another Bobbi Brown lipstick. 6 Mortimer Street, W1T
LITERARY ITINERARY
I SPY The latest coffee table book from TeNeues pays homage to aerial photography – with a difference. All the images were captured by drones. Thanks to their mobility, they can capture remote regions in a new light, resulting in never-beforephotographed views. Operated by professionals and non-professionals alike, the book’s subjects range from the Metéora rock towers of Thessaly, Greece and Iceland’s Langisjór Lake to sunbathers on a beach on the Curonian Spit in Lithuania and a snaking coastal road in County Mayo, Ireland. Above the World – Earth Through a Drone’s Eye, published by teNeues, £50, teneues.com
COVER IMAGE: PHOTO © BARRY BLANCHARD, LOCATION: PANTHER BEACH, SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES, CAPTURED ON: DJI INSPIRE 1 PRO BELOW IMAGE: PHOTO © WANG HAN BING, LOCATION: YU LI COUNTY, XINJIANG, CHINA, CAPTURED ON: DJI INSPIRE 1 PRO BOTH © ABOVE THE WORLD - EARTH THROUGH A DRONE’S EYE, PUBLISHED BY TENEUES, TENEUES.COM; © 2016 DJI. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DJI.COM
Lord’s is getting ready for its 2017 season, when England will play Ireland, South Africa and the West Indies. Hospitality packages are available for these headline fixtures and include access to the best seats in the house, fine dining, a complimentary bar and the chance to be bowled over by former international cricketers who will be playing host. From £329 +VAT, lords.org
REGULARS
FROM L-R: REPETITIONS, 1934 BY CÉSAR DOMELA-NIEWENHUIS © 2014 CÉSAR DOMELA/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK/ADAGP, PARIS; RENE MAGRITTE AT MOMA, NEW YORK, 1965 © STEVE SCHAPIRO
EXHIBITIONS
The weird and the wonderful
SEBASTIAN GORDIN, INVENTORY, 2015, WOOD, GLASS, BRASS, PAPER, 38 X 66 X 55CM
Atlas Gallery’s latest exhibition, The Psychic Lens: Surrealism and the Camera, tells the story of Surrealism through photography. The 50 works on display explore the ways in which different photographers, in particular Man Ray, responded to the movement over a 50 year period. A selection of his photograms – images created by exposing photosensitive paper to light rather than using a camera – are on display alongside collages by Japanese artist Toshiko Okanoue, fashion photographs by Horst P. Horst and portraits of those associated with the Surrealism movement such as René Magritte (far right). Until 28 January, 49 Dorset Street, W1U, atlasgallery.com
BOTH IMAGES: HARMONIC DISTORTION, 2016, NERO MARQUINA AND THASSOS MARBLE. 100 × 62 × 47 CM (ALT VIEW) © OF THE ARTIST, COURTESY OF PMAM
SMALL WONDERS Argentinian artist Sebastián Gordín is a stickler for the tiniest of details. Best-known for his minature model installations, the artist is opening his first solo exhibition If animals didn’t exist.., at Rosenfeld Porcini gallery this month. Drop by to marvel at playful scenes such as Inventory (pictured below). Until 9 February, 37 Rathbone Street, W1T, rosenfeldporcini.com
Data technology meets art Harmonic Distortions,, a solo exhibition of the work of British artist Mat Chivers, is currently on display at PM/AM. The artist uses different mediums to explore the connections between environmental phenomena and the technology used to interpret these. The wall-based works on show are each named after threatened ecosystems – such as the Galápagos Islands – and incorporate metereological data. Robotic milling technology was used to cut patterns representing data for wave and cloud formations to form the accompanying series of striking black and white marble sculptures. Until 28 February, 259-269 Old Marylebone Road, NW1, pmam.org
Spotlight on Russia Not-for-profit organisation GRAD aims to shine a light on the social and cultural history of Russia and Eastern Europe through exhibitions, lectures and screenings. Moscow-based artist Irina Korina is the latest to benefit, with her first London solo show Destined to be Happy taking up residence in its gallery space. Trained as a set designer, Korina sculpts large-scale installations and imaginative characters, using inexpensive materials including plastic and plasticine to contrast décor and decay. Until 28 February, 3-4A Little Portland Street, W1W, grad-london.com ARMED WITH A DREAM, AT THE MANEGE EXHIBITION SPACE, MOSCOW, 2013 © YURI PALMIN
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REGULARS
SPOTLIGHT Printmakers of the future
FITZROVIA’S CURWEN GALLERY has continued to associate itself with the art of printmaking, ever since Curwen Press opened a gallery in the 1950s to sell its lithographic prints. Prints produced at the gallery by the likes of Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth and Julian Trevelyan have helped cement its excellent reputation for the artistic medium. Today, the tradition continues and the gallery is supporting the next generation of printmakers with its annual Hot Off The Press exhibition. Launched in 2000, it’s an important event in the gallery’s calendar and aims to give recent Masters graduates in printmaking from top London schools including the Royal College of Art a
chance to exhibit their work, which ranges from etchings to digital prints. One of those taking part is Minami Wrigley, a graduate of Camberwell College of Arts. Wrigley refers to the “nature of leaving unexpected marks, working with mistakes and each image coming out slightly different to the previous when printed”. Despite modern advances in print technology, traditional methods remain popular precisely because of these irregularities and resulting unique character. The exhibition aims to reflect the diversity of techniques both new and old. Another participant, Mollie Tearne, a Royal College of Art graduate, describes her work as representing the “migration of people and objects” and her collage-like technique as a way to “both unpick and rebuild the world”. With refugees and migration frequently in the headlines, her recent creations exploring the aesthetics of displaced people and the hybrid that is created when families are uprooted and land on foreign soil, seem particularly poignant. 11-28 January, 34 Windmill Street, W1T, curwengallery.co.uk FROM TOP: GIANLUCA CRACA, MORPHEME 8; MOLLIE TEARNE, CINNAMON GARDENS 1, MIXED MEDIA WITH SCREENPRINT; SINEID CODD, GOLDSCAPE 3, ARCHIVAL DIGITAL PRINT, ED. OF 10, 102 X 152CM; ROBERT MARNEY, ORGANIC ENGINES (SYSTEMS OF CONTROL 5), DIGITAL PRINT; GEORGIA KITTY HARRIS, I AM PHIBIAN, ETCHING; ALL FROM HOT OFF THE PRESS 2017
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ABOARD With the release of glossy, photographic compendium Orient Express: The Legend of Travel this month, Kari Colmans gets the inside track on everything from the décor to the debauchery
T
hese days, with planes running like buses and traffic jams around every corner, it’s hard to imagine a golden age of travel when the journey was as exciting, if not more so, than the destination. But in an era defined by its trains, planes and automobiles, and the titillation of liberation and luxury, the illustrious Orient Express, known as the king of trains and the train of kings, set the stage for as many fantasies as it did real-life escapades of the rich, glamorous and notorious. Brainchild of Belgian engineer and businessman Georges Nagelmackers, the first Orient Express ran from Paris to Constantinople (modern day Istanbul) in October 1883, passing through ten countries in just 76 hours. The first luxury sleeper and restaurant train that linked East and West, it carried the day’s glitterati through the great
European capitals of Vienna, Venice, Milan and Budapest, fuelling a brash, carefree, and utterly new ‘what happens on the Orient Express, stays on the Orient Express’ attitude. In celebration of the unique design, engineering innovation and celebrity the Orient Express came to personify, Assouline has released a new book this month titled Orient Express: The Legend of Travel, which documents all that went on once the carriage doors closed. Nagelmackers was one of the first of his generation to place much importance on the integration of design and engineering, making ‘travel an experience and speed a challenge’, The Legend of Travel’s author Sixtine Dubly writes.
FEATURE
He had been meticulous with the design: Art Deco in style, it was decked out with theatrical Napoleon III–inspired furniture and English club armchairs, and decorated with floral accents, plant motifs and glass bell lamps. Carriages were made of teak (although this was changed to metal after WW1) and decorated with crystal. Attention to detail was paramount; tables in the dining carts were set as if in the finest of restaurants. At the time, its interior was compared to a luxurious Paris apartment. Tolstoy, Grace Kelly, Ernest Hemingway, Coco Chanel and Agatha Christie were just a few of its guests, while the royalty of the day – Leopold II of
Belgium, Carol II of Romania, Tsar Nicholas II of Russia and Ferdinand I of Bulgaria – also found the time to jump on. His Majesty King Ferdinand particularly loved to make the train whistle, and would board wearing a white suit, taking control of the locomotive and racing around corners at full speed. However, His Majesty ended up upsetting the travellers, and Nagelmackers was forced to step in (to make amends, the King decorated him). One night in 1920, a man in his pyjamas staggered up to a signal box proclaiming himself to be French president Paul Deschanel. “And I’m Napoleon Bonaparte,” responded the signalman, to the Frenchman who, it turns out, was in fact the president after all. Having taken more than 60 trips, English novelist Agatha Christie (author of the famous Murder on the Orient Express and Death on the Nile) was (obviously) a diehard fan: “The Orient Express is undoubtedly my favourite train,” she said at the time. “I like its tempo, which begins with an allegro con furore – the train shakes, crackles and launches in every direction in its mad hurry to leave Calais and the West – and gradually becomes rallentando while continuing
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: RESTAURANT CAR NO. 2979, BUILT IN 1925; DECORATIVE PANEL FIGURINES AND GRAPES FROM CAR NO. 4159, MADE IN 1928 BY RENÉ LALIQUE, WHITE PRESS MOLDED GLASS ON A SILVER LEAF BACKGROUND; INTERIOR OF CAR NO. 4160 WITH DECORATIVE PANELS SMALL BOUQUET OF FLOWERS, MADE IN 1928 BY RENÉ LALIQUE. ALL IMAGES © LOLA HAKIMIAN
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on its route to the Orient before indisputably opting for legato.” The famous Murder on the Orient Express was in fact inspired by a true story: in 1929 the train got stuck in the snow 80km from Istanbul. Unprepared, the passengers on board swapped their jewellery for eggs and ended up hunting wolves. Nicknamed the Spies’ Express, the train was popular with secret agents, real as well as fictional. The infamous Dutch exotic dancer and courtesan Mata Hari used the Orient Express as her headquarters during WW1 before she was convicted of espionage for Germany, and then arrested and executed by firing squad in Paris in 1917. Robert Baden-Powell played the part of a lepidopterist and drew butterflies in the dining car to disguise his covert sketches of Dalmatian coastal fortifications, while in 1950, the body of Captain Karp, an American diplomat, was found dumped on the tracks near Salzburg following a long spying mission. One particular coach became notorious as the setting in which Germany was forced to sign the Armistice with the Allies in November 1918, but in a bitter twist of fate, Hitler forced the French to sign their own surrender in the same coach in the summer of 1940. But the train set the stage for as many amorous encounters as it did diplomatic. “Women in the hallways seemed more beautiful, men more daring,” Dubly writes, quoting French author, journalist, and frequent traveller Joseph Kessel. Predictably, the hotel on wheels, ‘the train without borders’, provided the perfect escape for clandestine lovers where time seemed to stand still. Sultan Abdul Hamid II moved in with his wives and transformed several compartments into a rolling harem. Belgian King Leopold II also fitted out his private quarters to meet with the beautiful dancer Cléo de Mérode, while actress of the day Marlene Dietrich chose the sumptuous surroundings for her secret meetings with film director Josef von Sternberg and later the French actor and heart-throb Jean Gabin.
Described as a link between the ‘geopolitical and the diplomatic’, the route was altered during WW1 to avoid Germany, but it wasn’t until 1930 that it ventured to ‘the Orient’ on the remains of the then Baghdad Railway. Its route included Aleppo, Beirut, Jerusalem, Cairo, Baghdad and Tehran. By the golden age of the 1930s, there were several Orient Express trains. Although the original Orient Express last served in Istanbul in 1977, it operated until 2009 (albeit using modern rolling stock and only between Strasbourg and Vienna). The Venice Simplon Orient Express was launched in 1982, complete with expertly restored period coaches and is now famous in its own right. While the wheels were still in motion, the pull of the Orient Express lost its allure after WWII, leading Nagelmackers to expand into American-style luxury hotels designed to receive ‘the high society that, in the late 19th century, was abandoning country life and castles to travel the world’. Later down the line, sleeping cars were sold off and transformed into gazebos, racing pigeon transporters and even a Limoges brothel. For better or worse, literature and cinema have taken over the legend of the Orient Express. But even though its wheels have ceased turning, its history still fuels intrigue and fancy.
One particular coach became notorious as the setting in which Germany was forced to sign the Armistice in November 1918
Orient Express: The Legend of Travel, by Sixtine Dubly, £55, published by Assouline, 196A Piccadilly, W1J, assouline.com
FEATURE
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: RENÉ PROU WINGBACK CHAIR AT THE CAR RESTORATION WORKSHOP IN CLERMONT-FERRAND, 2016; LUGGAGE TAGS; INTERIOR OF RESTAURANT CAR NO. 2979, DETAIL; INTERIOR OF CAR NO. 4160, DETAIL. ALL IMAGES © LOLA HAKIMIAN
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Oscar-winning actress Rachel Weisz talks ageism, sexism and her love of complicated women with Scarlett Russell
R
achel Weisz isn’t like other actresses. Despite being one of the most bankable stars in Hollywood, throughout her 20-year career she’s never succumbed to playing the secondary sidekick or ditzy love interest. She has an Oscar, Olivier Award and an action franchise under her belt but has stayed, largely, well away from rom-coms. At a time when the industry is tarnished with sexism, at the age of 46 her career is the busiest it’s ever been. Oh, and she’s married to the former James Bond. Born in 1970 to Jewish parents – Hungarian George and Austrian Edith – Weisz grew up in Hampstead Garden Suburb. She studied at Cambridge University along with Sacha Baron Cohen, Alexander Armstrong, Ben Miller, Sue Perkins and Mel Giedroyc (leaving with a 2:1 in English). It was here she fell in love with acting and formed a theatre group that performed at Edinburgh Festival Fringe. Her career began in 1992 but broke through in 1996 with a major role in thriller Chain Reaction alongside Keanu Reeves. Two decades, 43 films
and various stints on Broadway later, Weisz is talking to me from Manhattan, where she lives with husband Daniel Craig. The two are US citizens, but Weisz isn’t ruling out a return to the UK. “I spend half my time in north London anyway,” she says. “My favourite place ever is Regent’s Park. And now, with everything that’s happening, I definitely think I’d consider moving back to the UK.” By ‘everything that’s happening,’ she – of course – means, ‘Donald Trump becoming the imminent leader of the free world.’ And, like a true north London liberal, Weisz is uncomfortable with the idea. “I didn’t think either Brexit or Trump were possible,” she says. “I was in London the day the [Brexit] vote was counted and I couldn’t believe it, but in London we were inside our own little bubble, not really hearing the stories from people who we didn’t agree with, and that’s the same in America. People that lived outside of the East Coast and West Coast weren’t being heard. There’s a lot of anger.” To many, like Weisz, a Trump victory seemed implausible, which gives extra potency to her latest film, Denial, based on the
“My favourite place ever is Regent’s Park. And now, with everything that’s happening, I definitely think I’d consider moving back to the UK”
IMAGE CREDIT: MAARTEN DE BOER/ CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES
INTERVIEW
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RACHEL WEISZ ATTENDING THE YOUTH PREMIERE DURING THE 68TH ANNUAL CANNES FILM FESTIVAL, 2015 © DENIS MAKARENKO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
THIS IMAGE AND BELOW: RACHEL WEISZ AS DEBORAH LIPSTADT IN DENIAL
WEISZ IN THE MUMMY, 1999, IMAGE CREDIT: THE MOVIESTORE COLLECTION
STARRING ALONGSIDE RALPH FIENNES IN THE CONSTANT GARDENER, 2005, IMAGE CREDIT: THE MOVIESTORE COLLECTION
INTERVIEW
landmark court case in 1996 between Jewish scholar Deborah Lipstadt and notorious Holocaust denier David Irving. Irving, a British author and self-proclaimed historian, sued Lipstadt and her publisher, Penguin Books, asserting that Lipstadt had libelled him in her book, Denying the Holocaust. “I thought it was such a bizarre thing that this trial even occurred,” says Weisz. “It was such a strange pocket of history, but very relevant, more and more, to the world that we find ourselves living in. He sued her for saying he was an anti-Semite, which he clearly was. I thought it was something that not a lot of people knew about. I knew almost nothing about it, but was really fascinated in what the underlying theme of the film was: that not all opinions are equal and some things are simply fact.” In doing her research for the role, as well as perfecting Lipstadt’s Queens accent (“I’d recite a few random sentences out loud to myself before coming on set, just to get into character”), Weisz discovered that Holocaust deniers are still active. “If you go online now, particularly in America, there are huge communities of people who think it’s a hoax. Of course it is terrifying but, as the election in America has shown, there are a lot of people who don’t think like us.” Weisz gained worldwide acclaim as English Egyptologist Evelyn Carnahan in monster hits The Mummy (1999) and The Mummy Returns (2001), though her career has been built on political thrillers, intense dramas and quirky indies. In 2006 she won the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress for political thriller The Constant Gardener. Her role straight after Denial is in drama Disobedience based on Naomi Alderman’s novel.
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Weisz plays a woman who returns to her Orthodox Jewish family after the death of her rabbi father. Filming is currently underway in Hendon and, having secured the rights herself three years ago, Weisz is a producer on the film, which co-stars Rachel McAdams. The fact that Weisz’s next two roles centre firmly on Jewish women is coincidence rather than any sort of nod to her own roots, which she describes as, “culturally Jewish but not religiously”. Also this year, she’ll star in drama The Mercy about yachtsman Donald Crowhurst and an adaptation of Daphne du Maurier’s novel, My Cousin Rachel. What attracts her to a role? “Something that will surprise me. I go in with a completely open mind, but I want to be seduced by a story. I want to play women who have appetites, who have contradictions, who are textured, layered and multi-dimensional. I love complicated women.” Clearly, Weisz is a woman who knows her mind. She is intelligent and engaging, considering her response to our questions for a few moments before answering – and often reflecting the question back (“Wait, so where did you grow up?” “What did you think of the film?”). In fact, the only time she seems to tense up is when I bring up that oh-so-famous husband of hers. Note: If you’ve ever wondered if there could be a female Bond and, if so, whether Weisz would be up for playing it, the answer is a flat “no” and you’ll be signalled to move the conversation on immediately. Venturing onto the subject of ageism in Hollywood, Weisz speaks with passion again. Film may be one of the most ageist and pressured industries for women, but the actress insists that she’s embracing this time in her life. “The Betty Davis/Barbara Stanwyck era was when there were really powerful and complicated roles for women, then everything went tits up. But I think that’s changing again and there are better roles out there. Twenty years ago, I was just a girl and there were certain parts being offered to me. I am a woman now and those roles are therefore more complex. I’m enjoying them a lot and this time in my career, for sure.” With seven major movies in the pipeline, we can’t argue with her. Denial is released on 27 January
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WRITTEN IN THE STARS The night skies in French Polynesia are particularly clear, thanks to a lack of ambient light and pollution. A local guide can come aboard for an evening of astronomic observation with dinner on deck under the stars
THE
UNUSUAL
FEATURE
SUSPECTS In an age of ever-extraordinary travel experiences, Camilla Apcar finds six exceptional trips to get excited about in 2017
Y.CO’S TROPICAL ARCHIPELAGO ESCAPE
French Polynesia
The sky – or indeed the sea – is the limit with any Y.Co superyachting itinerary, and chief of all might just be a trip from Tahiti to Fakarava on board Big Fish: a 45-metre, five-cabin motor with a 22-foot video wall. Spend ten days island hopping the world’s largest coral atoll chain, taking underwater expeditions to shipwrecks, visiting pearl farms and enjoying the onboard chef’s barbecues on private islands with Tahitian dancers. And that’s just for starters. From $245,000 per week, y.co
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FUN AND PHILANTHROPIC
IGO ADVENTURES
A percentage of IGO’s profits are donated to charity. Many competitors choose to fundraise, while friends and family supporters are invited to cheer them over the finish line
Norway, Montana and Morocco The most intrepid travellers will delight in IGO’s quadrathlons. Teams are put to the test in four marathon-length stages over four days, within the depths of the world’s wildernesses: be it Moroccan desert and mountain biking, kayaking and canyon running; or snow running, fat biking, cross-country and downhill skiing through Norwegian mountains. Extreme it may sound, but entrants undergo intense bespoke training in the ultimate preparation programme. From £3,495, igoadventures.com
IMAGES COURTESY OF IGO ADVENTURES
FEATURE
SPECIAL OPS AGENCY
Worldwide
If the closest you’ve come to being 007 is buying an Aston, it’s time to take your wildest dreams to the next level. A team of ex-SAS and Secret Service operatives can set up a secret mission that might include abseiling out of a helicopter, hostage rescue, evasive driving or capturing and relaying sensitive intelligence. One-to-one training ensures safety is paramount, including handling weapons while explosives detonate in every which direction. Expect a dose of Bond-worthy glamour, too. From £2,850, specialopsagency.com
A MASTERCLASS IN CHESS AT EZZAHRA
Marrakech, Morocco
How better to while a weekend away than a spot of chess? Try a programme of lectures from five-time World Champion Vishy Anand and 2008 British Champion Stuart Conquest, plus their commentary on your own matches, all in the surrounds of a beautiful riad-inspired villa. At Ezzahra there’s tuition for beginners; amateurs can talk tactics with the pros; and for noncompetitive partners, inclusive spa treatments. £2,400, 4-8 May, ezzahra-morocco.com
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FINN LOUGH BUBBLE DOMES
Enniskillen, Northern Ireland
Rising with the dawn takes new meaning when there are no curtains to shield you from it, and such is the wonderful novelty of sleeping in a bubble dome hidden in a picture-perfect forest. Supremely well-insulated from the winds – and Irish rain – on Lough Erne’s shore, these inflatable suites with just a radio for company are pared back yet utterly modern. An adjoining bathroom is concealed from view, but in a double bubble, a tub puts guests truly at one with nature. From £195, finnlough.com
FEATURE
TATEV MONASTERY
THE CAUCASIAN SILK ROUTE WITH STEPPES
Armenia and Georgia
Starting in Armenia’s capital, Yerevan, and working its way across the border to Tbilisi, this group tour is led by historian and University of Cambridge researcher Ian Colvin – whose expertise means the only place to get lost is in the richness of this often overlooked region’s history, architecture and landscapes. Explore ancient monasteries, World Heritage Sites and natural wonders on a road less travelled. From £1,695, 4-16 May, steppestravel.co.uk
THE ANNALS OF TIME The snow-covered peak of Mount Ararat (pictured below), a dormant volcano in Turkey that commands views more than 650km away in Yerevan, is said to be the resting place of Noah’s Ark
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The
billionaire business Inside a six-storey building on Brook Street sits Sir Peter Rigby and his £1.8 billion company. The secret of success? Keeping it in the family. Hannah Lemon meets his son Steve to discuss the future of their fortune
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here is the adage that the first generation makes it, the second generation grows it and the third generation breaks it.” Steve Rigby is discussing the future of his family empire over a cup of coffee. And while I have only just met the man, his sharp suit, steady eye contact, affable smile and firm handshake are all pointers that he would never allow his children to let a multi-million pound company go to the dogs. The Rigby Group PLC was originally set up in 1975 as a computer consultancy business by Steve’s father, Sir Peter Rigby, who was equipped with just £2,000 and the worry of a young family and a mortgage. It is now a £1.8 billion success story with more than 7,500 employees, and has since diversified to include airports, hotels, real estate, aviation and financial services. With his father at the helm as chairman and CEO, Steve takes the role of COO and his brother James, chief executive. It’s an even distribution of responsibilities now, but there must have been a number of arguments starting out. “There were plenty of those,” Steve smiles knowingly. “But we are differently skilled people. I am mathematical in my approach, strategic; my father is sales-orientated and good at statesman-type activity; and my brother is very operational. We manage to co-exist, but there are some very fraught moments!” While Steve didn’t necessarily yearn to work for the company from a young age, after education there weren’t many other options on the table. “Reality dawns when you’re leaving school. I wasn’t
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: STEVE RIGBY; PLANES FROM ONE OF THE REGIONAL AND CITY AIRPORTS; THE CATHEDRAL ROOM AT BOVEY CASTLE; BOVEY CASTLE
particularly academic and was desperate to start work. I went into the family business when I was about 19. We started a retail company in the UK, which we latterly sold to PC World – that was my first serious adventure.” Now he oversees the real estate and financial services, and sits on the board of the technology and airport divisions. It’s easy to tell that this man has his head in the game, be it learned or in his DNA. Questions are answered pleasantly, if not vaguely; secrecy and privacy seem particularly important to him. (Are there any famous people you have worked with? Yes. Any you would care to mention? No.) The noticeable lack of a tie and his laid-back
INTERVIEW
“My father taught me that hard work is the predication of any success in life. He taught me never to be afraid”
attitude (no PR flapping about), suggest he would be a genuinely pleasant boss. Talking of Rigby & Rigby, a super prime property developer set up in 2006 that sits in the real estate portfolio, he says: “I can still go onto a building site and I know the labourers’ and carpenters’ names. Not just their names but their wives’ names and how many children they have. If you can remember those things, which is a hard thing to do, it means a lot to people.” Steve has three children aged from nine to 17 with his wife, from whom he has recently separated. Will the kids be picked for the Rigby line-up? “It’s too early to tell. My eldest son is very maths-orientated and he’s going to read economics, so I am sure he will find his way into the business.” He insists there isn’t a requirement for them to join up, but also wants to instil a strong work ethic. “We try not to overindulge them. I certainly don’t want them to be trustafarians.” Certainly, Steve’s competitive nature – he races cars and plays polo – seems to have filtered down the family tree; his eldest has played polo for England. “My son and I used to
play a lot of table tennis together,” Steve says, “and when he started beating me it almost got to the point of taking lessons again.” A quick Google and there is hardly a whisper about the family – they’re certainly no flashy Branson equivalent. Even holidays seem to be a low-key event: Steve takes his family to Bovey Castle, a 300-acre retreat in Devon that is part of the Rigby Eden Hotel Collection. “It’s a really magical place. I go there two or three times a year. It’s a proper children’s holiday, playing in the woods and streams. As it should be.” Besides this, he takes to the seas around Europe or the Caribbean. Is it all hands on deck? “It’s more sailing with a drink in your hand,” he laughs. When he’s back on home soil, he splits his time between a country retreat in the Midlands and a townhouse on Dover Street. “Mayfair, compared with other parts of London, is unique. I love the restaurants, bars, private members’ clubs and architecture. I never fail to walk around and see things that amaze me.” It’s a pretty handy commute to his new office at 80 Brook Street, which has been decked out by Rigby & Rigby, with a few personal touches from Steve himself. Less like an office and more like a show home, the building, which belonged to a law firm for 65 years, is decked out with comfy sofas, accent colour cushions, dark wood shelves, perfume diffusers and glossy tomes. The drinks trolley next to the table looks particularly inviting. Steve shares a floor with his father and I ask what valuable lessons Peter has divulged. “He has taught me that hard work is the predication of any success in life. He taught me never to be afraid, never to be put off by the size of a challenge, and to have the confidence to knock on a door and ask for someone’s business.” He pauses and adds with a smile: “My father also tries to teach me patience, but I’m not so good at that one.” If that’s his only failing, I’m pretty sure the next generation is in good stead. rigbygroupplc.com
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creedfragrances.co.uk
27053 Creed Aventus Xmas Ad_Runwild_210x297.indd 1
17/11/2016 11:15
COLLECTION
Heart’s
DESIRE
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raff Diamonds made history last month when it unveiled the largest D Flawless heart-shaped diamond in the world. Weighing in at 118.78 carats, the Graff Venus – as it has been dubbed – was cut from a 357-carat rough diamond discovered in 2015 at the Letšeng mine in Lesotho. Diamond cutting on this scale had never been attempted before and the process required the world’s most skilled and experienced craftsmen; it took 18 months to develop the perfect heart shape. Responsible for cutting and polishing more than half of the world’s 20 largest diamonds of the past century, the British jewellery house was well-placed to take on the challenge. graffdiamonds.com
IMAGE COURTESY OF GRAFF DIAMONDS
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BASELWORLD.COM
The one unmissable trendsetting show for the entire watch and jewellery industry, where all key players unite to unveil their latest creations and innovations. Be a part of this premier event and experience passion, precision and perfection in action.
MARCH 23 – 30, 2017
COLLECTION
Below the surface We love it when two great luxury brands join forces, as more often than not, this creative fusion results in particularly innovative new products. Case in point: Georg Jensen and Gemfields’ latest collaboration. Gemfields – one of the world’s leading gemstone suppliers – sourced rubies from its mine in Mozambique for a new five-piece contemporary collection created by Jensen. The minimalist, concave silver designs are based on the jeweller’s iconic Mobiüs shape from the 1960s. Twenty per cent of profits will go towards the Niassa Carnivore project, an organisation that works to conserve lions and other large wildlife in Mozambique. From £350, exclusive to amazon.co.uk/georgjensen
Jewellery news
WORDS:OLIVIA SHARPE
M’ama Mia Partake in a grown-up game of ‘he loves me, he loves me not’ with Pomellato’s M’ama non m’ama 2017 collection. Launched in 2009 with nine rings in nine colours (their cabochon stones representing different emotions), each piece was designed to be stacked in whatever arrangement the wearer saw fit. A new range sees five gemstones added to rings, earrings and pendants, including amethyst, peridot, London blue topaz, moonstone and garnet. And for the first time, bangles have been introduced. From £1,120, pomellato.com s L U X U RY L O N D O N . C O. U K s
TRUE COLOURS Jewellery designer Ece Sirin explores the science behind colour in the latest collection of talismanic pieces for her brand Bee Goddess. A kaleidoscopic range of drop earrings, necklaces and stacking rings sees striking graphic shapes in a pavé setting with rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds. In many ancient cultures, each colour was believed to have a different energy and healing power that affects our bodies, from red – power, passion and prosperity – to blue – eternity, truth and spirituality. Soul Colours collection, from £375, available at Harrods, harrods.com
FARES GAME It’s fair to say that Noor Fares has had luck on her side. Before reaching the age of 30, the Lebanese-born designer has already carved a reputation as one of the most influential jewellers of her generation. Spiritual motifs, mathematics and the cosmos play a significant role in her collections, as demonstrated in her latest, Navratna (meaning nine gems). For the final instalment in the new collection, Akasha (meaning space), Fares has reinterpreted this ancient Indian talisman into a contemporary range of pieces that have been beautifully handcrafted in 18-karat yellow gold with a myriad of precious gemstones. From £310, coming soon to net-a-porter.com
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dancing with To illustrate its passion for diving and underwater preservation, from 2008 to 2020, Blancpain is producing 12 Edition Fifty Fathoms, an annual limited-edition publication showcasing images by four different underwater photographers. On the launch of the brand’s latest charity-driven timepiece, Richard Brown speaks to vice president Alain Delamuraz, and presents some of the most striking shots captured so far
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hen does a watch become an icon? After shifting a particular number of units? Once it has celebrated a certain birthday? Perhaps as it begins to achieve six-figure sums at auction? Whichever way you cut it, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has acquired legendary status. The watch may not be what the Royal Oak is to Audemars Piguet, or what the Nautilus is to Patek Philippe – indeed, the Fifty Fathoms still gets outsold by dressier sister collection, the Villeret – but the divers’ watch has, almost by proxy, become Blancpain’s most emblematic timepiece. Commissioned by the French Navy in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms beat both the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster to become the world’s first bona fide, modern-day dive watch. More than six decades later, the timepiece continues to set the tone for almost all underwater tool watches. In 2014, following years of ocean conservation commitments, Blancpain reorganised its underwater initiatives in the Blancpain Ocean Commitment. Since then, the brand has cofinanced ten major scientific expeditions, helping to add three million sq km to the total area of marine habitats protected across the world. Last October, Blancpain unveiled the Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II at the Royal Institute of Great Britain. It is the second line of limited edition timepieces created as part of Blancpain’s Commitment. Funds from the first watch were awarded to the Gombessa Project, a new study documenting the pack-hunting behaviour of grey reef sharks along the Fakarava atoll in French Polynesia. Post-press conference, I had the pleasure of speaking to Blancpain vice president, Alain Delamuraz, a man who has served the brand since 2001...
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Five or six years ago, during Baselworld, the CEO of Tissot came to me and said, “I’ve just met a guy who you need to meet”. I said, “no I can’t, I’m too busy”. He said, “no, trust me, you must meet this guy, the world of diving is the domain of Blancpain.” The guy’s name was Laurent Ballesta. He showed me two pictures and immediately I knew I was in trouble: they were beyond beautiful. I knew then I had to talk to Marc Hayek [president and CEO of Blancpain, Breguet and Jaquet Droz], and it became my moral mission to show him these two images. When I did, he decided to meet Laurent immediately. They spent hours together looking at hundreds of his photographs. He knew straight away that we must work together. Laurent was honoured to become a Friend of the Brand. Marc Hayek is an experienced diver and very passionate about what he does, so this was a natural fit for them. Laurent’s work was published in Edition Fifty Fathoms that year [2012].
We are a real manufacturer. We never buy movements from other watch companies. We sell half our products to other brands when we exchange movements. The raw material arrives and then we produce the tools that we need to make the pieces. From A-Z, we do everything in-house.
We invented the first divers watch in 1953, so we wanted to make an impact in that field. We wanted to help fund expeditions that would leave the oceans of our world in a better condition for our children. We trust in institutions such as National Geographic to choose how to use our money to achieve concrete results. We have doubled the size of the oceans being protected.
Electronic products live and die. You can’t use the first televisions or the first quartz watches anymore, but the art of watchmaking will never die PREVIOUS PAGE: LARGER THAN LIFE, WILLIAM WINRAM, EDITION FIFTY FATHOMS (EFF) 2011 THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: OPEN MOUTH, REINHARD DIRSCHERL, EFF 2010; DANCE OF LIFE, IMRAN AHMAD, EFF 2012; PYSCHEDELIC, IMRAN AHMAD, EFF 2012; SIR PEPEFISH, IMRAN AHMAD, EFF 2012; LAST VIEW OF DAYLIGHT, AMOS NACHOUM, EFF 2009; BLUE MONSTER, KERI WILK, EFF 2012; ORANGE BALLOON, CHRIS NEWBERT, EFF 2010
The Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II is the first time a watch case has been made in blue ceramic. We’re not talking about covering the ceramic with a blue finish – we actually added blue pigment into the ceramic to cause a chemical reaction. The collection is limited to 250 pieces. For each one sold, €1,000 will be donated to scientific expeditions.
The first months of 2015 were quite strong. After that, demand flattened a bit. The second half was not good, as it was affected by the [terrorist] attacks of 13 November. Comparatively, 2016 was the opposite: the beginning of the year was not very strong due to the effect of the
COLLECTION
attacks. However, the end of the year saw growth. That compensated for the disappointing start of the year, but not entirely. At the end of 2016, we will be below 2015, but overall we’ll still be eight times above 2001. Consequently, we can’t complain about the situation.
Our growth is strong in China. By double digits. Hong Kong is likewise recovering. Thanks to China and Hong Kong, the second half of 2016 will show recovery measured against the first part.
Blancpain entered the Chinese market early. Too early, as we were among the first to establish ourselves there. That beginning is bearing fruit today because Chinese buyers respect that. We have begun with the same type of trajectory in India. For the moment we are taking a risk as the market is struggling to take off.
In gastronomy, you have the traditional style of cooking and you have the molecular approach, where you destroy and reconstruct.
Blancpain Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronograph Limited Edition II Diameter 43.6mm Case All-blue ceramic movement Blancpain Calibre F385 Production run 250 pieces Price £14,000 (€1,000 of which will go to supporting the Blancpain Ocean Commitment)
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Some traditional chefs say “this is a catastrophe, we must react”. I say that you should study what the new chefs are doing – don’t do the same, but watch the way they are cooking the egg. It’s the same with the connected watch or Apple Watch. It’s great, it’s new. It means that watches are moving forward.
Electronic products live and die. You can’t use the first televisions or the first quartz watches anymore, but the art of watchmaking will never die. As long as you have a brain and two hands and a heart you will be able to repair and redo a mechanical watch. Our product is a type of art – more expensive [than other watches], less accurate, but it will always remain an art form.
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Zenith reinvents a showstopper Like so many of last year’s best-looking timepieces, Zenith’s super handsome Heritage Cronometro TIPO CP-2 is the reinvention of a historic forebear. The original was a classic 1960s design, supplied for the Italian armed forces in only 2,500 units through Rome-based distributor A. Cairelli. Today, the ‘Cairelli’ watches have crossed into iconic status territory, achieving suitably lofty prices at auction. Journalists were given a glimpse of the modern TIPO CP-2 at Baselworld 2016, but it’s only now that the watch is finally available in the UK. More than just a pretty face, the TIPO CP-2 is powered by Zenith’s legendary El Primero movement. The 43mm timepiece comes with a stainless-steel caseback – something that’s sure to please purists but likely to irk anyone hoping to view the beating heart inside. £6,200, zenith-watches.com
Watch
news
PURDEY PARTNERS WITH PANERAI Gun and rifle maker James Purdey & Sons has partnered with Officine Panerai to produce a limited-edition series of safarithemed wristwatches. The collection comprises 80 numbered Luminor 1950 Sealand timepieces, with casebacks engraved with the Big Five game animals. The watches contain Panerai’s calibre P.9000, an automatic in-house movement that provides a three-day power reserve. The outer edges of each case feature gold inlay and a pattern inspired by African art; tan calf leather straps complete the bushman look. The collection is for sale online and in Purdey’s Mayfair boutique. Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio, £20,500, purdey.com
WORDS:RICHARD BROWN
Making a distinguished return Following a nine-month renovation, the doors to Harry Winston’s New Bond Street showroom have finally reopened. The salon’s façade has been restored in accordance with the guidelines for historical buildings, featuring Portland Stone – a hallmark of Mayfair’s Georgian buildings – while replicating the archway of the brand’s boutique on Fifth Avenue. Inside, the ground floor is dedicated to Harry Winston’s sparkling bridal and fine jewellery collections; the second floor stocks a growing collection of timepieces, the supremely elegant Midnight Date Moon Phase included (pictured, £21,600). 171 New Bond Street, W1S, harrywinston.com
BRITISH WATCH INDUSTRY PROVIDES SWITZERLAND A BEACON OF LIGHT Although 2016 may have been something of an annus horribilis for the Swiss watch industry at large (exports were down 11 per cent in the first ten months, with some companies down by more than 20 per cent), the year saw Britain’s luxury watch sector soar. The latest data from retail analysts GfK has highlighted a strong end to the year, with premium watch sales in October up by 53.5 per cent, compared with October 2015. Despite Rolex, LVMH and Richemont Group having decided to hike their prices – a response to the falling pound – sales of watches worth more than £1,000 increased by 25.1 per cent in the 12 months to October 2016. gfk.com
COLLECTION
“Watchmaking has always been a maledominated world and this collaboration has been a revelation”
A new dawn WORDS:OLIVIA SHARPE
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hen one considers the founding fathers of watchmaking, not to mention the male masters who monopolise the world of horology today, it is little wonder the watch industry is seen as a masculine preserve. However, that isn’t to say women aren’t involved in the business, and this has become increasingly apparent in recent years with the likes of Carole Forestier-Kasapi (head of Cartier’s fine watchmaking), Rebecca Struthers (co-owner of Struthers London) and Selynn Blanchet (master watchmaker at Vacheron Constantin) representing a new wave of women taking the helm. This year, Audemars Piguet pays tribute to the 40th anniversary of its ladies’ Royal Oak timepiece with a
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limited edition created in collaboration with Florentine jeweller Carolina Bucci: the Royal Oak Frosted Gold. Watch designer Jacqueline Dimier was responsible for its creation in 1976, having had the difficult task of turning Gérald Genta’s original Royal Oak into a woman’s wristwatch. The defining feature of the latest model – available in both white and pink gold – is its shimmering sparkle, which was achieved using an ancient gold hammering process, otherwise known as the Florentine technique. This finish has been employed in Bucci’s workshops for years, but it was nonetheless a painstaking process for Audemars Piguet’s craftsmen to alter the surface while retaining the flexibility of the bracelet. After months of trial and error, this delicate alchemy was achieved. Bucci, who has been an AP woman since her husband bought her a 1983 Royal Oak for her 35th birthday five years ago, couldn’t be prouder of the partnership. “Watchmaking has always been a maledominated world and this collaboration has been a revelation, I think, for both parties,” she comments. “It was an honour and inspiration to meet Jacqueline, who for decades had been at the forefront of watch design, and yet maintained a feminine touch and grace to her designs. I hope the wider discovery of her role at not just AP, but also Rolex and Patek Philippe, and particularly with the launch of the new Frosted Royal Oak, will encourage women to pursue their ambitions within the industry.” About time, too. Royal Oak Frosted Gold, POA, audemarspiguet.com 43
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ART
JOAN MIRÓ, EL SEGADOR (THE REAPER), 1937, OIL ON CELOTEX, 550X365CM, DISAPPEARED. ARXIU HISTÓRIC DEL COL·LEGI OFICIAL D’ARQUITECTES DE CATALUNYA, PHOTO BY RONESS-RUAN, ©SUCCESSIÓ MIRÓ, 2016
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Creativity
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or those who daydream of decades past, when world fairs and international expositions took place almost every year, Mayoral Gallery returns to 6 Duke Street with just the ticket – for a limited time only. Art Revolutionaries will be inspired by the Spanish Pavilion at the 1937 Paris Exposition, where in the midst of the Spanish Civil War, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró and Alexander Calder’s work presented the realities of Franco’s regime to the rest of the world. Guernica, sadly, will remain in Madrid’s Museo Reina Sofia, but archival material and this replica of Miró’s Reaper, which mysteriously vanished after the Expo, will enthral for hours. 18 January – 10 February, galeriamayoral.com
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Prize lots SOLD: £18,750
SOLD: £209,000
E S T I M AT E : £ 7 , 0 0 0 - £ 9 , 0 0 0
E S T I M AT E : £ 8 0 , 0 0 0 - £ 1 2 0 , 0 0 0
A miniature twocolour gold charka, Fabergé
Jimi Hendrix’s Epiphone FT 79 acoustic guitar, 1951
“Created by Michael Perchin, one of Fabergé’s most celebrated head workmasters, this piece attracted attention due to both its design and private provenance. The seamless, precise combination of pink and yellow gold on the body of the cup demonstrates immense skill. We often find this technique used on Fabergé cigarette cases, but it is rare to find it on a rounded surface, such as that of this charka. Sold from a private collection, the price achieved demonstrates the international demand for unique works by Fabergé that are fresh to the market and carry strong provenance.” – Helen Culver Smith, head of Russian Art at Christie’s
UPCOMING
Steps with Shadow (Paper Pool 2), David Hockney, 1978 Phillips dives head first into the new year with an impressive sale featuring works from David Hockney’s experimental Paper Pool series. Created in 1978 in New York, the 29 pieces are made from moulded paper pulp. The pool depicted in the images was Kenneth Tyler’s, a fellow artist with whom Hockney created the azure series. Estimate £400,000£600,000, Evening & Day Editions, 19 January, phillips.com
SOLD, FROM LEFT: FABERGÉ, A MINIATURE TWO-COLOUR GOLD CHARKA, C.1890, MARKED FABERGÉ, WITH THE WORKMASTER’S MARK OF MICHAEL PERCHIN, ST. PETERSBURG, TAPERING REEDED ROSE AND GREEN GOLD BODY ON A SPREADING CIRCULAR FOOT, WITH REEDED BORDER AND ROCAILLE SCROLL HANDLE, MARKED UNDER BASE. THE RUSSIAN ART SALE AT CHRISTIE’S, 28 NOVEMBER, CHRISTIES. COM, IMAGE COURTESY OF CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD 2016 JIMI HENDRIX: AN EPIPHONE FT 79 ACOUSTIC GUITAR, 1951. THE ENTERTAINMENT MEMORABILIA SALE AT BONHAMS, 15 DECEMBER, BONHAMS.COM, IMAGE COURTESY OF BONHAMS UPCOMING, FROM LEFT: DAVID HOCKNEY, STEPS WITH SHADOW (PAPER POOL 2), 1978, UNIQUE HAND-COLOURED PRESSED PAPER PULP, ON WHITE TGL HANDMADE PAPER, THE FULL SHEET, SIGNED WITH INITIALS AND DATED IN WHITE INK, ANNOTATED ‘2-4’ IN PENCIL ON THE REVERSE (ONE OF 16 VARIANTS), PUBLISHED BY TYLER GRAPHICS, MOUNT KISCO, NEW YORK (WITH THEIR INKSTAMP), FRAMED, 128.3 X 85.1CM, IMAGE COURTESY OF PHILLIPS DIANA AND ACTAEON IN A WOODED LANDSCAPE, WITH A HUNTER AND A FISHERMAN, JAN SOENS, OIL ON CANVAS, UNLINED, 135.5 X 110CM, IMAGE COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S
“Bonhams is privileged to have sold Jimi Hendrix’s acoustic guitar for £209,000, well over its estimate. Hendrix is among the greatest instrumentalists in the history of rock, making this Epiphone acoustic the pinnacle for any guitar collector. There was determined bidding from global collectors throughout the sale which showed the strength of the market in this category.” – Katherine Schofield, head of Bonhams Entertainment Department
UPCOMING
Diana and Actaeon in a wooded landscape, with a hunter and a fisherman, Jan Soens The Of Royal and Noble Descent sale at Sotheby’s will offer a huge variety of lots from notable aristocratic British and European collections, some of which have never been under the hammer until now. One lot on offer will be this painting of Diana and Actaeon by Dutch artist Jan Soens, who was particularly active at the end of the 16th century. This narrative historical work is from the Marchese Francesco Taccone di Sitizano collections. Estimate £8,000-£12,000, Of Royal and Noble Descent, 19 January, sothebys.com
ART
with DAVID LEIBER, partner at David Zwirner
Art news
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: REBECCA ALLEN, INSIDE, 2016, VIRTUAL REALITY INSTALLATION, ©REBECCA ALLEN, COURTESY GAZELLI ART HOUSE; JOSEF ALBERS, COLOR STUDY FOR HOMAGE TO THE SQUARE, N.D., OIL AND GRAPHITE ON BLOTTING PAPER, 33X33X3.2CM, ©2016 THE JOSEF AND ANNI ALBERS FOUNDATION/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY, NEW YORK; GOSHKA MACUGA, FRAME FOR TICHY 11, 2013, COURTESY OFGALERIE RÜDIGER SCHÖTTLE; HARIS EPAMINONDA, UNTITLED #22 CG, 2011, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND RODEO, LONDON
WORDS: CAMILLA APCAR
Heroes of our time Gazelli Art House will be given over to five powerful female artists for six weeks in its upcoming group show, an exploration of socio-political change over the past 50 years. Encompassing the work of activist and early feminist Nancy Spero as well as contemporary media artist Rebecca Allen and monochrome photographer Charlotte Colbert, it is set to be a bold and thought-provoking start to 2017. toute seule, 13 January – 26 February, gazelliarthouse.com
Gazing in wonder In another ambitious group show, Blain Southern plays on Giorgio de Chirico’s surreal, abstract and intriguing notion of the ‘metaphysical interior’. Sixteen artists who use collage, layered imagery or fragmentation – be it sculptural or even in installation – have been brought together in an exploration of time and the unconscious. Curators Simon Moretti and Craig Burnett have clearly had great fun with the concept, placing pieces by post-war artists Lynn Chadwick and Sigmar Polke alongside contemporary works by Cyprus-born artist Haris Epaminonda and 2008 Turner Prize nominee Goshka Macuga. Revolt of the Sage, until 21 January, blainsouthern.com
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Why was Josef Albers so taken with yellow, the subject of this exhibition? Yellow certainly allowed him to focus on the limitless expressive potential of colour and light. Restricting himself to just one colour really seemed to let him explore endless combinations and effects, and to produce illusions of translucency. Could another exhibition of his work come in another decade, titled blue, red, or green? He did indeed go into prolonged investigations of other colours. At our New York gallery, we recently organised a focused investigation of how Albers used black, white and grey-scale throughout his career. Which are your favourite works? Each has its own chromatic presence and such distinct effects at any given viewing. Among my favourites are Albers’ rarely exhibited colour studies. These paintings on paper, which often include notations by the artist in graphite, provide a unique window into his working process, allowing the viewer to think, along with Albers, through colour. How many shades of yellow are on show? We have yet to tally them all! Naples yellow, goldenrod, mustard, maize, saffron... there were so many available shades that Albers experimented with and applied straight from the tube. He used paints from around 60 different manufacturers. Josef Albers, Sunny Side Up, 13 January – 10 March, davidzwirner.com
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A matter of
ART
Monumental sculptures that defy the laws of nature and question our place in the cosmos have been gaining momentum over the past five years – and there’s still time to start collecting. Camilla Apcar speaks to the artists and gallerists leading the pack
L
ast year, a polar bear stood guard on its hind legs in King Street, two anthropomorphic rabbits trotted into Grosvenor Square on a horse, and a girl practising yoga with a globe took position on New Bond Street. Far from some otherworldly plot playing out in Mayfair, these were all signs of how, with the rise of private foundations and exhibition spaces, artists have been given new opportunities to think big – quite literally – about sculpture. In the ten years since Abby Hignell opened her contemporary and 20th-century sculpture gallery in Shepherd Market, she has noticed an increase in demand for large-scale works. “I think there were the wilderness years for sculpture, and in a lot of people’s minds it was about a man on a horse in the middle of a town square,” she says. “People’s eyes have been opened to what sculpture really is, and are really engaging with it. It has stopped being behind a velvet rope.” Size and scale are key to grappling with what makes a sculpture ‘monumental’ – a concept that precedes even the monolithic Moai figures found on Easter Island (carved by the indigenous Rapa Nui people around 1300), and goes all the way back to totem poles and ancient Egyptian and Chinese culture. The term sometimes refers to commemorative monuments, but in contemporary circles it most commonly concerns physical size. “Artists like Anish Kapoor and Richard Serra want you to be totally eclipsed by a form so that you have a sort of internalised experience within it,” says Neil Wenman, senior director at Hauser & Wirth London. “Or it might be a play on the form’s relationship to its environment, or perhaps about your own body size in relation to it.” Case in point is the work of Indian artist Subodh Gupta, who plays with scale in his mixed media creations that reference history, daily life and our human position within the universe – a theme explored repeatedly in monumental sculpture. Gupta’s work has taken the shape of a tree made entirely from stainless steel pots and pans; 697 bronze potatoes heaped together on a stand; and a life-size boat filled with detritus from the urban environment and tilted at an angle to allow visitors to walk underneath it, as exhibited at Hauser & Wirth on Savile Row in 2012 (pictured overleaf). Monumental sculpture is a specialised part of the collecting market, not least because it demands another premium: space. Many collectors are taking to the great
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outdoors. “I have more clients than ever who are building their own sculpture parks, either publicly or privately,” says Hignell. The gallerist represents both Helaine Blumenfeld – the contemporary American sculptor often credited with moving the medium on from the Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth aesthetics – and Sophie Ryder, whose Lovers on Horseback rode into Grosvenor Square last year. A host of temporary outdoor exhibitions in the public realm, be it Berkeley Square or Marble
PREVIOUS PAGE: BARNABY BARFORD, ME WANT NOW, 2016, PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID GILL GALLERY/ MARTIN SLIVKA
Monumental sculpture is a specialised part of the collecting market, not least because works of this scale demand another premium: space Arch, mirror collectors’ appetites. “I think that’s more to do with the popularity of contemporary art,” says Wenman. “The landowners of these spaces have seen that it’s a benefit.” Large outdoor sculptures have also been highly prized in recent years at both Christie’s and Sotheby’s. The latter’s Beyond Limits exhibition and private sale took to Chatsworth House for the eleventh time in September. Meanwhile, Christie’s worked on an exhibition with the Cass Sculpture Foundation, which gives its proceeds towards supporting artists and new commissions. Similar plans are in the works for later this year. These exhibitions, the opening of the Hepworth Wakefield museum and a focus on sculpture at fairs such as Frieze London have raised the market’s value. “There aren’t many areas where you can still get a world-class museum-level collection together,” says Hignell. “It remains just about possible to do so with sculpture, but the doors are closing fast.” Fortunately, collectors have a particularly broad pick of contemporary artists. Bowman Sculpture’s roster includes Emily Young, whose Neo Bankside sculpture walk was installed last summer beside the Thames and is set to stay well into 2020. Standing beneath one of Young’s huge pieces of stone is particularly powerful, says the gallery’s director Bill Gerish. “It makes you feel very human, very small. I remember standing underneath Planet [a metre-high face emerging
from a block of clastic igneous rock] when it was installed in Berkeley Square, and I felt dwarfed. There’s something almost otherworldly to something so unnaturally large.” Elsewhere, this month The Fine Art Society will show new work by Tim Pomeroy who, like Young, draws from the sacred, ancient and nature, and crafting sculptures in stone and wood. The polar bear that towered in David Gill Gallery throughout November and December
ART
was created by Barnaby Barford, an Edmontonbased sculptor with a certain predilection for labour-intensive work. Barford’s exhibition Me Want Now (pictured previous page) included 11 life-size animals made from porcelain flowers and tiles: a tiger prowled alongside a rabbit; a brown bear sat not far from the neck of a giraffe that extended out of a mirror like a hunting trophy. His carefully-planned menagerie considers the
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: SUBODH GUPTA, CHANDA MAMA DOOR KE, 2015, ©SUBODH GUPTA, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND HAUSER & WIRTH, PHOTOGRAPHY: KEN ADLARD; SUBODH GUPTA, WHAT DOES THE VESSEL CONTAIN, THAT THE RIVER DOES NOT, 2012, MIXED MEDIA, 1.10X3.15X21.35M, ©SUBODH GUPTA, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND HAUSER & WIRTH, PHOTOGRAPHY: ALEX DELFANNE; LORENZO QUINN, FORCE OF NATURE II, 2011, BRONZE, BERKELEY SQUARE, LONDON
relationships between humankind and the rest of the natural world. “I thought the polar bear would be quite aggressive in scale, but I miss its presence in my studio,” says Barford. Over a number of months, the artist attached more than 7,500 ceramic flowers to wire and sculpted them into the bear’s snowy form. Yet going large was not always intentional for Barford, and he maintains that his works are not about shouting the loudest. “They can be huge and subtle at the same time, even though they’re so physically large. I’ve always made works the size they needed to be.” Barford’s Tower of Babel was exhibited at the Victoria and Albert Museum in 2012, and its very subject required a monumental structure. “It’s supposed to reach to the heavens,” he describes. It took two and a half years to create and stack 3,000 miniature bone china shops on top of each other, stretching six metres skywards in socioeconomical commentary. Abandoned shops and bargain stores formed the tower’s wide base, while boutiques and galleries were precariously balanced at its narrow summit. For Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn, whose pieces can be found at Halcyon Gallery on New Bond Street and in public spaces the world over, working on a large scale is all-important. “The monumental represents the permanence of the artwork,” he says. “It brings the sculpture closer to people, putting it out there: it’s public, not yours anymore. The idea of leaving something to posterity is quite amazing for an artist.” Despite the amount of engineering involved, and the fact that “every small error becomes a big mistake”, Quinn says he finds it easier to work in such a monumental way. His artworks, like Holding Up the World – the girl balancing a globe on her feet – or Force of Nature (which landed in Berkeley Square in 2011, pictured far left), concern uniting people. “The most important thing has always been how people react to my work and whether they understand it,” he emphasises. “Sculpture is a way of communicating. It’s about the message.” Sometimes, size does matter. bowmansculpture.com, davidgillgallery.com, halcyongallery.com, hauserwirth.com, hignellgallery.com, thefineartsociety.com
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FASHION
I
t may come as a surprise to some that the contemporary and youthful fashion brand Loewe has just celebrated its 170-year anniversary. The Spanish label was established by Enrique Loewe Roessberg in the 19th century as a cooperative of leather and fur specialists. The fresh-faced Jonathan Anderson took the helm as creative director in 2013, incorporating the house’s history into his progressive designs: re-interpreting the seminal 1975 ‘oro’ suede Amazona handbag into a playful and multifunctional new puzzle shape. The multiple British Fashion Award winner has commissioned cult magazine publisher Luis Venegas to compile a limited edition tome on Loewe. The image-heavy, soft-cover compendium is filled with editorials and campaigns – old and new – that give a colourful and detailed insight into the company’s history. Anderson refers to it as a ‘reference tool’ (laid out in no particular order) and ‘not a book to be precious with’. A must for all sartorial libraries. Loewe: Past, Present, Future, £110, available from loewe.com and selfridges.com
The
LOEWE
DOWN
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Milano: Galleria V. Emanuele
ITALIAN TRAVEL BAGS SINCE 1952
Available at Harrods, Selfridges, John Lewis and caseluggage.com
FASHION
The max factor Jungle fever has taken hold of Max Mara’s S/S17 collection, which draws on the work of the late Brazilian Modernist architect Lina Bo Bardi. Classic silhouettes have been given a sporty Rio-inspired twist with palm prints and animal motifs emblazoned on jodhpur leggings and bodysuits in athleisure fabrics such as jerseys and nylons. If that sounds all too adventurous, the house has stayed true to its signature styles too: think crisp shirts, wide-legged trousers, belted suits and trench coats in shades of cream and taupe. 19-21 Old Bond Street, W1S, maxmara.com
WORDS: MARIANNE DICK
On the Marni
Red coat, £436
Full length coat, £359
Livin’ la vida Coca Johnny Coca’s first year as creative director at Mulberry has seen a smörgåsbord of fresh arm candy. His coveted future classics include the compact Clifton with its flat press studs and the sleek Maple (a tote that Mary Poppins would be envious of, pictured right). This month sees a graphic zigzag adorn these new shapes in bold oxblood, mustard and cream. Maple tote, £995, 50 New Bond Street, W1S, mulberry.com s L U X U RY L O N D O N . C O. U K s
Italian fashion house Marni has revealed a new capsule collection in collaboration with lifestyle e-store YOOX. A first for the digital retailer, the exclusive range celebrates Marni’s heritage prints and vibrant florals, and takes cues from the design archives of founder Consuelo Castiglioni, who recently stepped down as creative director. The campaign is fronted by Australian model Fernanda Ly, who sports candyfloss hued hair, epitomising both brands’ confident aesthetics. yoox.com
IMAGE: MELVYN VINCENT
Style update
New openings
COACH An interactive New York-inspired flagship called Coach House has opened on Regent Street. The ground floor features a craftsmanship bar that offers monogramming, personalisation, leather care and repair services. Watch out for the exclusive Regent Street designs. Oh, and dinosaurs... 200-206 Regent Street, W1B, coach.com
MCM On Conduit Street, Munich-born brand MCM presents its new central London store, which features a stunning sweeping staircase. The rest of the space is decked out in oak, bronze and plenty of its signature Cognac Visetos leather, which covers everything from chairs to bears. 16 Conduit Street, W1S, mcmworldwide.com
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One in
Emilia British-based fashion designer Emilia Wickstead talks to Kari Colmans about motherhood, wardrobe detoxes and her inherent passion for travel
FASHION
E
milia Wickstead is eating a bread roll. Not a gluten-free, organic, nut-and-seeded excuse for a carbohydrate, but a white, fluffy bread roll. With butter. This may not sound like something worth remarking on, but it pretty much sums up the young fashion designer in one bite: she seems so normal. Wickstead found huge success with her whimsical yet regal dresses – her S/S14 textured pink Christian midi-skirt won hearts and wallets, from Marylebone to Notting Hill, as devotees flocked to matchesfashion.com – and then later down the line with her everyday separates. The 32-year-old seems so unaffected that I soon forget (as she orders steak and chips for lunch at the Rosewood hotel) that her face is a constant fixture among the who’s who of the British fashion circuit. Originally from New Zealand, British-based Wickstead has always been something of a globetrotter. She moved to Milan aged 14, where she lived for four and a half years, and then to London for university – she received a BA in fashion design and marketing at Central Saint Martins, with honours in 2007. She’s half Italian (her mother’s side), and her husband is from
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Brazil, so a taste for travel, as well as fashion, is in her blood. “My mother was a fashion designer,” she recalls fondly, with a smile and a softness reserved for speaking about her family. “So I think it was instilled in me at a very young age. When I moved to Milan, after my mum married an Italian, the world of fashion came to life and I was seeing it for the first time. I was always intrigued and wowed by the entire industry. At the time, Milan was very much having its moment with Fashion Week. And that’s when I thought that this was something I could do.” Although, ironically, her first fashion memory could have seen it go either way: “I remember my mother working very late nights for the fashion house she created and I asked her to never leave me her business!” Before setting up her own label, Wickstead honed her skills at Giorgio Armani, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez and Vogue in New York and Milan, before returning to London and opening her first store in Belgravia in 2008 (her flagship is now on Sloane Street). Starting out as a made-to-measure atelier, she graduated to seasonal ready-to-wear and has been an unmissable name at London Fashion Week for the past four years, while her international
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“Every woman ne eds
a great pair of tro users, a high-wais
presence is continuing to grow. A busy mother of two, she’s not afraid to admit she finds it hard to balance it all: “Because it is! It’s hard to go weeks on end without seeing your children if you’re on a deadline.” A typical working day consists of her getting up with her three-year-old daughter Amalia and one-year-old son Gilberto. Wickstead spends time with them in the morning before the nanny arrives and then drops her daughter off at nursery on the way to work. She makes sure she is always home before bedtime, even if there is an event that evening, which, of course, there are many. “By the time it gets to the weekend, it’s family time and I’m exhausted,” she says. “I do find it difficult to balance work and family life, and I always admit to that, but then I think how privileged I am to have a great job and two healthy children. So as much as it’s tiring, I do try to forget that and enjoy the moment and be grateful for what we have.” Wickstead’s coy when I press for any details; be it her feelings towards her accomplishments or even the area of London where she lives, or enjoys visiting. She still has her first editorial coverage (a spread in Vogue after she called the editorial desk and insisted they look at her website while she hung on the line) sitting on her
ted pair of jeans,
bookshelf, but doesn’t want to comment on any other reviews that followed, good or bad. She’s thoughtful and diplomatic, even when asked the simplest of questions (Me: “Biggest fashion faux pas? EW: “I better be careful what I say…”). However, it feels more like she’s uncomfortable under scrutiny and protective of her privacy, rather than pushing a PR agenda. The Duchess of Cambridge has recently voiced her praise for the label, with The Telegraph proclaiming Wickstead “a favourite designer”. But again her response is considered: “Every time someone endorses the brand and wears it beautifully is a great moment for me. I’m proud every time I see somebody in one of my pieces. That could be someone on the red carpet who is in the public eye, or just someone who is walking down the street, or into a restaurant. Every time that happens, it feels like a huge achievement.” Indeed, she finds inspiration from the women she passes on the street every day. “I’ll often be running up behind someone, secretly taking a photo of the detail on a coat or something,” she laughs. As far as role models are concerned, she doesn’t feel it’s her duty, but says it would be “lovely” if people were to look up to her that way. As for her own idols, she turns again to family.
and a
FASHION
great dress in her wardrobe ... and a really good coat. T hese will “I looked up to my mother, who was a working parent and definitely a role model. I also looked up to my grandmother, who was a very big part of my life. She had eight children and was a stay-at-home mum. There is something to be said about having true respect for your elders: for their wisdom and ability to nurture. Both my mother and my grandmother are my role models for very different reasons.” Dressed simply in a black polo neck, chevronpatterned cigarette pants and pointy flats, with little more than gold hoops and a slick of red lipstick by way of adornment, Wickstead only spends a maximum of five minutes getting ready in the morning, a dream that she’s achieved by keeping a tidy and tightly edited wardrobe that she updates at the beginning of every season. “I hate to overthink fashion,” she says. “I do that for a living, especially when I’m designing a collection. When it comes to my own wardrobe, I’ll embody what I’ve designed for the season. Testing all of your products and wearing them as your clients would is very important; learning from the designs and fabrics you’ve used, whether they were right, or whether they weren’t.” As well as her own label, she also loves Current Elliott jeans (“I’m really into the high-waisted
cover any outfit”
ones. They’re so comfy”), James Perse and Sunspel T-shirts. “I love knitwear,” she enthuses, “which we have for Emilia Wickstead now, and you’ll very often see me with a big overcoat. My go-to shoes are my pointed velvet Rochas flats and I also wear a lot of trainers with jeans. Every woman needs a great pair of trousers, a highwaisted pair of jeans, and a great dress in her wardrobe … and a really good coat. These will cover any outfit.” As talk turns to getting away from it all, Wickstead grows wistful. She will soon be retreating to one of her favourite places in the world: her mother’s country house in Italy. She shares some of her special places (the Amalfi Coast for its food and wine, and Tuscany – her grandmother was from Florence, and Wickstead and her husband married in Montepulciano). But they’ll be back for New Year’s Eve to host their annual dinner party. “I love being with friends, and having people over for dinner. I love cooking and I’ve started to get back into that now.” And just like that, while sorry to miss pudding, the school-run beckons. I bet she has an Um Bongo in her handbag. emiliawickstead.com
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Pay tribute to the dusky landscape of Morocco with floaty bohemian dresses and seek refuge in a lush oasis with tropical prints and vibrant silk scarves P h o t o g r a p h y: A L E X A N D E R B E E R S t y l i n g : GRAHA M C R U Z
Dress, ÂŁ586, Zimmermann, zimmermannwear.com; bra, ÂŁ405, La Perla, laperla.com
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LEFT Kaftan, £805, Kalmar, available from Matches Fashion, matchesfashion.com; trousers, £245, Tara Jarmon, tarajarmon.com; silk scarf, £95, Jessica Russell Flint, jessicarussellflint.co.uk; sunglasses, £180, Taylor Morris, taylormorriseyewear.com; hat, £80, Jess Collett, jesscollettmilliner.com; rings, from £43, Joubi, joubi.co.uk
ABOVE Shirt, £195, Cacharel, cacharel.com; silk scarf, £95, Jessica Russell Flint, as before; hat, £80, Jess Collett, as before
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FASHION
ABOVE Top, £790, Giorgio Armani, armani.com; skirt, £1,500, Alexandra Long, alexandralong.com
RIGHT Dress, £740, Just Cavalli, justcavalli.robertocavalli.com; ring, £225, Monica Vinader, monicavinader.com
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LEFT Dress, £2,350, Peter Pilotto, available from Harrods, harrods.com; earrings, POA, Dsquared2. dsquared2.com
ABOVE Jumpsuit, £1,695, Agnona, agnona.com; coat, Dsquared2, POA, as before; boots, £730, Giorgio Armani, as before; sunglasses, £395, TD Tom Davies, tdtomdavies.com
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FASHION
ABOVE Jumpsuit, £1,610, Gabriela Hearst, available at Net-a-Porter, net-a-porter.com; silk scarf, POA, Dolce & Gabbana, dolcegabbana.com
RIGHT Jumpsuit, £1,150, Pringle of Scotland, pringlescotland.com; silk scarf, POA, Dolce & Gabbana, as before
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CREDITS Model: Gia Johnson-Singh @Models 1 Make-up and hair: Marian Filali for Dior Location: Palais Rhoul Marrakech, palais-rhoul.com
Urban Jurgensen Advert - RWMG 333x235mm.indd 2
22/04/2016 14:07
IMAGE CREDITS: SOYEON PARK | JAE WHAN KIM
FASHION
Star-crossed loafers Duke & Dexter’s new Covent Garden store offers customers a wide array of luxury loafers to browse while enjoying a complimentary beverage from Yorkshire-based Buckshot Coffee Company – a nod to the brand’s roots in Sheffield, where each pair is handmade. Its slip-ons blend British heritage with international influences, and, through its bespoke service, customers can suggest monograms and motifs to personalise their footwear from start to finish. From £225,16 Earlham Street, WC2H, dukeanddexter.com
Style spy WORDS: JAMES CONEY
McCartney mania
Game changer
When a new year comes round, many of us tend to try out a new look: right on cue, Stella McCartney has released her first menswear collection. Inspired by the men in her life (naturally, since her father practically influenced an entire cultural revolution), the range stays true to McCartney’s sustainable values while still maintaining a high degree of style through its bold patterns and embroidery. Newman jacket, £960, 30 Bruton Street, W1J, stellamccartney.com
Mr Porter is the exclusive launch outlet for Kent & Curwen’s new collection, produced under the creative directorship of Daniel Kearns and in partnership with David Beckham, who has just signed a five-year contract as business partner to the brand. The designs are heavily influenced by Beckham’s style, and include sports shirts branded with an English rose motif and shearlingtrimmed jackets. We’ve got our eye on the camel coat (£1,200) to take us coolly from winter into early spring. From £150, Kent & Curwen, mrporter.com
HELL FOR LEATHER Connolly – leather supplier for the seats in the House of Commons – now has a new home at 4 Clifford Street. Established in 1878, the small family business evolved to become an esteemed merchant, especially to the automotive industry – with high-profile clients such as Rolls-Royce, Bentley, Aston Martin, Jaguar and Ferrari. Today, it’s perhaps better known for its fashionable ready-to-wear line and impeccably crafted driving collection, ranging from leather goggles (£130) to pairs of particularly effective Road Rage gloves (£295). A certain two fingers are conveniently highlighted in red... 4 Clifford Street, W1S, connollyengland.com
DANIEL KEARNS AND DAVID BECKHAM PHOTOGRAPHY: MR ANTONY CROOK FOR MR PORTER
PHOTOGRAPHY: BEN WELLER
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It’s never too late...
LUXURY BODY BUTTER IN WHITE CASHMERE FROM THE BATH & BODY COLLECTION
www.lilouetloic.com
INTERIORS
Walking on a
dream s L U X U RY L O N D O N . C O. U K s
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he tagline at the heart of Seletti, the Italian design brand established in 1964, is: ‘Revolution is the only solution’. This ethos manifests itself in progressive objets d’art – notably the Hybrid collection of porcelain pieces – as well as its offbeat utensils such as the Inception cityscape dish racks. Seletti has collaborated with Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari (the artistic duo behind the graphic biannual publication Toiletpaper) to produce a homeware range adorned with their surreal, saturated and darkly comic pictures. This visually jarring collection has expanded to include rugs made from recycled materials, available to buy at Paul Smith’s Albemarle Street store until March. The rugs, in both round and rectangular shapes, are almost too good to walk on. Lipstick round rug, £650, Seletti wears Toiletpaper, available at Paul Smith, 9 Albemarle Street, W1S, paulsmith.co.uk
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Technology for your world, your way. With Crestron automated technology at the heart of your home, you’ll know the meaning of luxury. Where your space responds to your every need, where total control comes at the touch of a button. We make smart homes for smarter living.
crestronshowroom.com | Where technology starts
All brand names, product names, and trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Certain trademarks, registered trademarks, and trade names may be used in this document to refer to either the entities claiming the marks and names or their products. Crestron disclaims any proprietary interest in the marks and names of others. Crestron is not responsible for errors in typography or photography. Š 2016 Crestron, Ltd.
INTERIORS
Gvardian of the galaxy Versace swaps its usual elaborate embellishments in favour of a sleek, futuristic aesthetic in its Gvardian homeware collection. The mainly monochrome range still packs a punch with space-age chairs and sofas as well as industrial-style tables made from matte carbon fibre, giving them an unusual tactile appeal. POA, versacehome.it
Interiors news WORDS: MARIANNE DICK
FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS Christine Samuelian and Belinda Fisher, founders of creative consultancy Friends & Co, know exactly what makes people tick – which is why they have been chosen to pick eight outstanding British designers for the capsule collection Makers for Selfridges. Thirteen new products will interpret the department store’s signature shade of canary yellow, including Japanese and Scandi-inspired stoneware from Marylebone furniture brand Another Country and tea sets from interior designer Charlene Mullen (both pictured below). From £15, selfridges.com
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Bathroom scales Giacomini Design develops innovative water sculptures that are crafted and developed in Italy. One of the standout pieces in its first range, Sculture d’Acqua, is an unusual snake tap made of titanium and steel (pictured right). Paired with advanced technology – such as control via WiFi, touch settings, voice commands and LED lights to indicate temperature – it’s sure to make your next bathroom experience like no other. From £10,000, giacominidesign.it
©LITTLE GREENE 2016
Pieces of history This month, wall covering company Little Greene will reveal its fourth collection of London wallpapers. The prints are inspired by the English Heritage wallpaper archive and named according to the area where each original fragment was first found. The Albemarle Street covering was discovered in a low-ceilinged secondfloor bedroom, yet it boasted a pattern repeat of six feet. The Upper Brook Street design is based on a bright kniphofia flower decoration that was found hand-painted over a pre-hung paper in the late 18th century. Upper Brook Street in minuit, £170 per roll, littlegreene.com 75
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INTERIORS
Scents of security
For discerning noses, candles by perfumers offer the finest in home fragrances. Camilla Apcar speaks to the olfactory masters who are burning the midnight oil and turning their attention to wax
I
n a market overwhelmed with fragranced candles – released each season by interior designers, homeware stores and massmarket influencers alike – it is those translating their olfactory expertise from liquid to solid form that truly stand out from the pungent throng. Heavyweight perfumers have long since taken to the realms of wax: Frederic Malle’s mammoth Cafe
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Society (£60) conjures Parisian dinner parties and drawing rooms; the Penhaligon’s range of classics continues to expand; Creed’s Green Irish Tweed (£85) is just as verdant as its original spray from the 1990s. Niche creators, too, are noticing an increased desire from their loyal followers to diversify. “About 15 years ago, the demand for fragranced candles was tiny,” says perfumer Azzi Glasser. “You just had Glade air fresheners back
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then. I think people are more aware of smell now, and what it says about them. And if the candle looks great, it’s like an ornament as well.” Having spent many years as a nose for the likes of Jasper Conran and Agent Provocateur, Glasser launched her own brand – The Perfumer’s Story – in 2015. Often asked about the fragrances that would suit certain rooms at home, in October Glasser developed the idea of Perfumed Architecture: five candles each intended for a different living space (£49 each). “Black Moss is for the entrance hallway or living room area, because its patchouli and oud give a kind of wow factor,” she describes. For kitchens or dining rooms, where a more subtle fragrance is required, Fig Ambrette is based on Corsican fig with hints of amber and green leaves. The go-to scent specialist for Helena Bonham Carter, Jude Law and Stephen Fry (to name just three), Glasser’s next venture will be to mirror her bespoke eau de parfum service with made-to-order candles. Working with wax poses a different set of challenges for perfume experts – both technically and creatively. “The fragrance that you would choose to wear isn’t always the same as the one you would want in your home. It has to be more neutral, to a certain extent,” says young British talent Tom Daxon. Glasser agrees: “with a candle, it’s about designing it around your environment.” Leo Crabtree, founder of BeauFort London, says it’s worth remembering that the wax version of a beloved perfume may be very different. Indeed, he has used faithful reproductions of BeauFort’s eau de parfums for his three Night Watch candles (£39 each), but because of the medium “they work very differently, smoother somehow”. Deep and dark, they are full of tea, tobacco and gunpowder scents. “We spent a lot of time experimenting with different wicks, different glass and various types of wax,” he continues. “It’s essential to get the candle to burn evenly all the way down, ensuring even distribution of heat and scent.” This can take many months to perfect: “particularly as we use various natural compounds in very high concentrations that burn at different rates. Even the colour of the glass makes a difference.”
“People are more aware of smell now, and what it says about them. If the candle looks great, it’s like an ornament as well” Certain ingredients won’t work in fragranced wax, as the flame burns the oil and forces molecules to react and release their scents in different ways. Sandalwood, for instance, makes for a light smell – but paired with other finely-tuned ingredients it will become accented. “It’s like a form of manipulation,” says Glasser. The popularity of smoky candles endures, cherished for recreating the atmosphere of grand or cosy old wood-panelled rooms with a log fire burning in the grate. Brooklyn perfumer
INTERIORS
D.S. & Durga has just released its first collection (£58 at Liberty), a trio that draws on the smoky theme each in their own way. Portable Fireplace is perhaps the most straightforward (cedar, pine and oak ash swirl around birch tar). “This one obviously works best in the cold months,” says co-founder David Seth Moltz. “The idea is that you can enjoy the ambience of a roaring fire even if you don’t have a chimney, which many modern apartments do not.” Next, Spirit Lamp is a curious mixture of peach water, white ginger, coconut milk and smoky black tea. “It actually reminds me of sitting in the garden on warm summer evenings, but works very well indoors in chilly weather,” says Moltz. The third and arguably the best, ’85 Diesel, takes its name from the perfumer’s 1985 Mercedes Benz 300Turbo Diesel, all leather
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FROM LEFT: WHITE NARCISSUS, TOM DAXON; ESPRIT DE KADISHA, IDEO PARFUMEURS; VI ET ARMIS, BEAUFORT LONDON; ROSA MUNDI, DIPTYQUE; PORTABLE FIREPLACE, D.S. & DURGA
seats, walnut dashboard and diesel smoke. Elsewhere, Ideo Parfumeurs’ Esprit de Kadisha candle excels (£35 at Liberty), with oriental wood and incense coming together in a striking Lebanese-inspired combination by the husbandand-wife team behind the brand. Yet there are those making a move away from the fireside. In October Roja Dove launched H – The Exclusive Black Tier at Harrods (a hedonistic blend of rose, raspberry and suede, £95), while Swedish perfumer Agonist collaborated with compatriot fashion brand Hope to create three candles (£50 each at Avery Perfume Gallery) inspired by themes of individuality and strength. Hope for Diversity sits floral notes over leather and a woody base; Hope for Courage brings cinnamon and nutmeg together with rosemary and vanilla; Hope for Freedom tops musky undertones with lime. Unlike Leo Crabtree, Tom Daxon – who grew up in Buckinghamshire but spent his summers in Grasse – felt that his existing perfumes didn’t work quite as well as candles. “You don’t get the same expression of a fragrance in a candle as you do in a spray. It’s not as precise, and you’re dispersing it over a larger area,” he says. “Candles have to be simpler and stronger.” His latest, White Narcissus (£55), is crisp but set against smoky woods. “The idea was to create a wintery candle that wasn’t a Christmas cliché,” says Daxon. “It’s what I think of as a floral bouquet in the winter: quite green, with a cosiness and warmth underneath.” As spring approaches, so does a fresh host of waxy delights for the new season. This month Diptyque will release Rosa Mundi (from £28), a limited edition that perfectly captures the idea of a candle as an object of beauty. Two roses – Damask and May – are complemented by blackcurrant and bergamot, lychee and geranium, as well as by hand-printed floral paper around the glass. Its charming design is part of a revival of domino paper, a craft made popular in the 18th century and used to cover books, walls and boxes with colourful prints. Similarly, Linari’s new Onice candle (£53 at Harrods) offers a musky, tonka and lavender scent swathed in deep black velvet. What Glasser notes holds true – a candle really can serve a feast for all the senses.
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
S PA R E V I E W
Going native Forget the trials and tribulations of 2016, Hannah Lemon finds a way to wash off the past 12 months and start the new year with a clear head thanks to the healing remedies of the Navajo tribe
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any people have welcomed saying goodbye to last year. There have been European debacles, surprises of a presidential proportion, as well as break-ups (Brangelina) and goodbyes (Bowie, Prince, Andrew Sachs, AA Gill). So think of my relief when I arrived at The Connaught’s Aman Spa and my therapist said: “This treatment helps you leave the past behind and welcome the future.” As part of its luxury treatment series, the spa offers two-and-a-half-hour Signature packages inspired by different mediums of wellness from around the world, be it China, India or Thailand. I picked the Americas, involving a session of ancient Navajo techniques and natural ingredients to focus the mind on turning over a new leaf. Stepping into the cedar-scented room, I was told to lie face up on the bed. I pondered how an entire afternoon could possibly be filled up by a massage or two. Then began my hours of serious pampering, by the end of which I yearned for a couple more.
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To begin, my masseuse slowly wafted burning sage around the room to fill it with a calming aroma. Next, the focus turned to my feet. Pummelling and kneading this part of the body gave me time to relax – and almost fall asleep – by grounding my energy and stresses down to my toes. After that came the mud. A reddish lacquer was applied all over my limbs, back and stomach, after which I was rolled up like a mummy in sheets. It was strangely comforting being tucked up like an infant, completely free of cares – much like how I imagined a newborn Navajo baby swaddled in a cradleboard would feel. As the organic properties of the mud cleared my pores, I received a head rub that eroded my tensions, frowns and worry lines. I was then unwrapped, which seemed like a symbolic rebirth as I shed old anxieties in favour of a private steam room concealed behind two shutters. I washed off the remaining clay in the shower and returned for a final
full-body massage with hot oil and stones to iron out my muscles. The heat helped channel my mind towards positive thoughts once more, as if I was in hibernation mode, gearing up for release. As I prepared to return to the real world, I felt calmer, a tad sleepy and extremely content. Perhaps there’s hope yet Brad and Angelina. Signature Experience: Inspired by the Americas, £280, Aman Spa, The Connaught, Carlos Place, W1K, the-connaught.co.uk
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
Beauty sleep From an anti-ageing pillowcase to high-tech night creams, all you have to do is snooze while these products work their magic
Colour coding Chanel’s first collection to launch this year is Coco Codes – an interpretation of the five iconic shades of the house: red, black, gold, white and beige. Experiment with a translucent, milky white or a sheer inky black top coat for nails, or highlight eyes with golden-beige shades. From £20, chanel.com
#1 Sleep Plus Hair Elixir, £25, This Works, thisworks.com
#2 Multi-Action Overnight Treatment, £89, Perricone MD, perriconemd.co.uk
Beauty news WORDS: MELISSA EMERSON
A wrinkle intervention La Prairie’s latest innovation in its ambitious quest for a ‘lineless future’ is its Line Interception Power Duo. Two separate chambers within the bottle hold day and night creams with built-in SPF 30 and UVA protection. Combined, they target expression lines, UV-induced wrinkles and gravityrelated creases, and they’re fitted with a handy travel lock, so you’ll never need to spend a night apart. £244, laprairie.co.uk
#3 Skin Rejuvenating Pillowcase, £50, iluminage, selfridges.com
#4 Night Cream Repair Skin Control, £270, Susanne Kaufmann, susannekaufmann.com
A CLEANSING RITUAL Uplift your morning routine with this new lime-scented Reawaken hand and body wash from Mauli. Made in England with pure essential oils, it includes softening coconut oil and immunity-boosting Indian frankincense. Plus, 80 per cent of the ingredients are organic and it’s free from chemical preservatives and synthetic fragrance. £23, maulirituals.com
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#5 Diamond Extreme Night Dual Treatment duo, £214, Natura Bissé, net-a-porter.com
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&
2.7 MILLION people are living with coronary heart disease
2 MILLION are affected by angina, the most common symptom
For your own peace of mind, book a consultation today. We offer investigation, treatment and continuous care in a clear and comprehensive way. Experienced cardiac consultants and a highly skilled cardiac specialist team will support you at every stage of your journey.
CALL OUR TEAM TODAY
020 7483 5000
www.thewellingtonhospital.com
On the pulse One in four people will develop Atrial Fibrillation (AF), an abnormality in the rhythm of the heart (arrhythmia). This can lead to the potentially devastating consequence of a stroke. Dr Syed Ahsan, Consultant Cardiologist at The Wellington Hospital discusses the condition and treatment
PROMOTION
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trial fibrillation (AF) affects an estimated 1.5 million people across the UK and in excess of 16 million worldwide. AF involves the upper chambers of the heart, known as the atria, beating irregularly. As the atria control the normal rhythm of the heart, this means that your pulse becomes irregular. AF is the most powerful single risk factor for suffering a deadly or debilitating stroke. It is estimated that every 15 seconds, someone suffers an AF-related stroke. However, AF can be detected easily with simple manual pulse checks. Treatment with a blood-thinner (anticoagulant) is vital to reducing the risk of stroke. Atrial fibrillation presents itself in many different ways. The most common symptoms are called paroxysmal atrial fibrillation. palpitations, which are often rapid and irregular. Atrial fibrillation itself is not usually life People may also experience dizziness, shortness threatening, but can be uncomfortable and of breath and fatigue. In some people, there are often needs treatment. There are a number of no symptoms and the discovery of AF can be an different approaches to the treatment of atrial incidental finding. fibrillation. Assessment by a specialist is The irregular heart rhythm of atrial required to consider which approach is fibrillation causes the blood to pool most suitable for an individual. and this may cause a blood clot to Meet the There are three strategies to treat AF: form. This clot can then be carried specialist Medication to control the heart to the small blood vessels in the Dr Syed Ahsan is a leading London rate or rhythm may be the most brain where it blocks the blood cardiologist and specialist in heart suitable treatment for some flow and causes a stroke. To rhythm disorders. He works at patients. This may be in the form reduce the risk of stroke, people The Wellington Hospital and of regular, daily medication to who have been diagnosed with AF Barts Heart Centre, one of the prevent episodes, or single doses to need an assessment of their risk largest specialist cardiac units take when you have an attack to try factors to decide whether to start in the world. and stop it. an anticoagulant. In patients who are in AF all the time, a Some patients who have developed cardioversion – a small electrical shock across atrial fibrillation may spontaneously the heart under light general anesthesia – can return to normal (sinus) rhythm after a short restore the heart to a normal rhythm. period of time. However, others may find they Catheter ablation is a minimally invasive alternate between these two rhythms. This is treatment option for patients who continue to have symptoms of atrial fibrillation despite medication, or for those who do not wish to take regular medication. In these instances catheter ablation can improve quality of life and is potentially curative. The procedure involves the insertion of catheters, or fine wires, to the heart through the veins at the top of the leg. There are electrodes at the tip of the wires which detect electrical signals from different parts of the heart. Radio waves are used to create heat which destroys the electrical signals within the heart that are responsible for triggering AF. For more information, or to arrange an appointment at The Wellington Hospital, please call our Enquiry Helpline on 020 3504 3159 s L U X U RY L O N D O N . C O. U K s
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PROMOTION
From here to infinity Wren Kitchens launches its latest collection
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t goes without saying that a bespoke kitchen is an investment, but due to the high price tag it remains a pipe dream rather than a reality for many homeowners. This is something Wren Kitchens wants to change. As the largest kitchen manufacturer and retailer in the UK, the company wants to make bespoke kitchens more accessible with the launch of its Infinity Collection. With 50 colours, 20 frontal styles, 1,650 unit sizes and 700 feature unit varieties to choose from, together with a number of different worktops, profiles, finishes and details, the Infinity and Infinity Plus ranges offer the possibility of countless combinations. The launch of the Infinity Collection has the potential to be a real game changer for the industry – and for homeowners. Wren has invested 25,000 hours in research and development and spent a further £50 million in manufacturing facilities alone to develop the range, creating a third factory to take its manufacturing footprint to more than 1.5 million sq ft. The Infinity Collection offers homeowners a bespoke, luxury kitchen at an affordable price. Wren’s popular ranges, including favourites like the Shaker and handleless styles, have been expanded to include new unit sizes, colours, finishes, feature units and custom-made worktops. Additional features include stunning stealth islands, pull-out larder units, pet beds and dressers. One striking new design, the sleek modern Infinity Milano (pictured), is normally only found in high-end design studios, but Wren makes it available for a little over £1,000 for eight units, meaning there’s a bespoke kitchen for everyone, whatever their budget.
MILANO ELEMENTS COLLECTION IN CONCRETE OAK AND WHITE; MODERN PANTHEON GRANITE WORKTOP; PENINSULA LOUNGE UNITS IN MILANO SLATE
The Infinity Collection offers homeowners a bespoke, luxury kitchen at an affordable price MILANO CONTOUR AND SHAKER UNITS IN LAGOON AND WINTER WHITE; MODERN ISLAND IN MILANO GOLD
All of Wren’s kitchens are manufactured in the UK at its state-of-theart manufacturing facilities in Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, ensuring that quality, design, sustainable manufacturing and British values are at the heart of everything it does. And, because Wren owns its entire supply chain – manufacturing in the UK, selling in its own showrooms and delivering in its own fleet – costs are kept low for customers. Mark Pullan, Wren’s managing director, comments: “The company experienced unprecedented sales growth in 2016 and over the next few years we will be looking to almost triple the number of retail showrooms in the UK from 55 to 150. The word is spreading about our great quality, excellent service, and above all, our beautiful kitchens. We are so excited to introduce the Infinity Collection and give our customers the most comprehensive collection in the UK to choose from.” To see the full collection, visit wrenkitchens.com or your local showroom
FOOD & DRINK
IMAGE CREDIT: MATT RUSSELL
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f your Christmas was heavy on the mince pies and easy on the Brussels sprouts, head to Harrods this month for the launch of its first ever vegetarian range in collaboration with new chef of the season, Anna Jones. Expect to find mac and greens, lemon, lentil and kale soup and seeded pistachio and squash galette in the aisles, as well as a range of sweet treats, such as banoffee pie and chocolate and black bean cookies. If you’re feeling inspired, visit Harrods’ website where the chef will be hosting a series of digital masterclasses to encourage viewers to veg out this new year. Until 28 February, Harrods Food Hall, harrods.com
Keeping up with the
Joneses
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Show time
Food & drink news WORDS: ANNA THORNHILL
Having bestowed Madrid with its only three-Michelin-starred restaurant, David Muñoz is hoping his star quality will follow him to the London outpost of StreetXO. His new Mayfair restaurant put on quite the show for diners when it launched this month. All tables face the open kitchen, so front row seats of the chefs at work come as standard. The menu takes inspiration from the street food markets of Asia, with sharing platters featuring the likes of club sandwich with ricotta cheese, fried quail egg and shichimi (pictured); or kimchi croquetas with tuna steak and burnt butter. As for drinks, try the Japo, Jerez – a smoked pea soda, with shiso, miso, yuzu, sake and Palo Cortado sherry – that comes garnished with flamed shrimp, naturally. 15 Old Burlington Street, W1S, streetxo.com
Eat your greens
THE PERFECT SERVE We’ve got a lot to thank the Swiss for: reliable wristwatches, waistband unfriendly pralines – and now with the arrival of a new Jura store: coffee machines. But Jura doesn’t specialise in just any old technology. Its models will whip up everything from a ristretto to a macchiato at the touch of a button. Plus, tennis pin-up Roger Federer is the brand’s ambassador. And if it’s good enough for Roger… J6 Rose Gold (limited edition) £1,695, 148 Marylebone Road, NW1, uk.jura.com
In 1989 The Gate in Hammersmith set out to change the perception that vegetarian cuisine was all lentils and limp lettuce leaves. It succeeded: and since then has brought its aubergine teriyaki and green dragon salad (pictured)to a second restaurant in Islington, and now a new venture on Seymour Place. Vegetarian dishes will sit alongside veganfriendly options at the Marylebone branch, which will also be open for breakfast. Could scrambled tofu and smoky shiitake mushrooms knock avocado on toast off its Instagram pedestal? Visit to find out... 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H, thegaterestaurants.com
What the doctor ordered David and Renato, the two friends behind Fitzrovia’s The Remedy, both agree that there’s little a glass of vino and some delicious food can’t cure. Accordingly their neighbourhood bistro has recently launched an all-day food offering of bavette sandwiches (pictured) and sharing boards of charcuterie and cheese. For the perfect antidote to a hectic week, pair a platter with a glass of wine from the extensive list of low-intervention varieties. 124 Cleveland Street, W1T, theremedylondon.com
FOOD & DRINK
REVIEW
That’s a Mora A young restaurateur is bringing Mediterranean flavours to Marylebone. Melissa Emerson takes a seat in Mora’s shabby-chic dining room to see for herself
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he 2016 Harden’s London Restaurants Guide listed a record number of new openings last year – 179 to be precise – exceeding 2015’s haul by 31. Mora in Marylebone is one of these newcomers, and the man responsible – 20-something Andrea Reitano, who is already a partner in Mayfair’s fish restaurant Assunta Madre – is tipped as a restaurateur to watch. We enter via the curtained foyer of what used to be a pub on the corner of George Street and Gloucester Place and are warmly welcomed into the transformed dining room, which accommodates just 60 covers. It’s a particularly
The moodily lit room has the appearance of a manor house that has fallen on hard times
quiet Tuesday evening when my guest and I visit (we are the only two diners for most of the evening), but our waiter assures us it’s usually fully booked on the weekends. Once seated on a raised corner table with a leather banquette (and feeling a little selfconscious) we survey our surroundings. The moodily lit room, imagined by Rosendale Design, has the appearance of a manor house that has fallen on hard times. There’s parquet flooring, blown plaster walls revealing patches of decorative gold and the odd antique, all of which lends the place a charming shabby-chic feel. The cuisine is far more modern, with a Mediterranean fusion menu split into small plates, starters, mains and sides. Copious amounts of bread and olive oil aside, my guest begins with a Sicilian red prawn carpaccio with avocado crème and bottarga mayonnaise. Presentation here is picture-perfect, although my burrata d’Andria (from Puglia) with seasoned tomatoes is altogether simpler. Then again, such a decadent cheese speaks for itself. I also keep things simple for my main, opting for the tagliolini pasta, which is handmade in the restaurant and served with slices of pungent black truffle and salted butter. It is the perfect winter comfort food. Despite the temptations of hearty dishes such as honey and chilli-glazed duck breast or T-bone steak, my guest also succumbs to carb cravings with a slightly more elaborate dish of linguine with lobster, courgette flowers and leeks. We swap red wine for cocktails that come garnished with colourful, precisely cut cherries and fresh cucumber, served in pretty crystalware. We sip these as we power through a lasagne-dish sized portion of tiramisu and a trio of crispy cannoli, noting that Mora’s recipe for success is not far off the mark – it’s just a shame others don’t yet appreciate its discreet charms. 89 George Street, W1U, morarestaurant.com
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Peruvian
PROMISE Forget Dry January – with its Pisco Bar and Latino vibes, the party is still in full swing at COYA Mayfair
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eru: home to a vibrant swathe of the Amazon rainforest and ancient Incan cities perched high in the Andes, is on many an intrepid traveller’s bucket list. But if your bank balance won’t stretch to a roundtrip ticket to Lima after the excesses of the festive season, there’s always COYA. As January blues set in, the Mayfair institution promises to keep the pisco sours and party atmosphere flowing.
PROMOTION
Set across two floors, everything from the dedicated art collection to the distressed colonialchic décor is a nod to vibrant South American culture. COYA is home to a Peruvian restaurant, a members’ club, which hosts pop-up exhibitions, and the aforementioned Pisco Bar, where a roster of live bands and DJs perform on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. If its track record is anything to go by, COYA knows how to throw a soirée. Together with its sibling outposts in Miami and Dubai, it plays host to some legendary celebrations throughout the year – from the annual White Party thrown in June to commemorate the Incan Empire and worship the arrival of the sun god, to the traditional Day of the Dead celebrations in May. But even when we visit on a drizzly Tuesday evening, the atmosphere in the dimly lit lower ground floor bar is lively. The comfy banquettes prove to be the perfect place to batten down the hatches with a Mama-Quilla (a blend of vodka,
fresh grapefruit, watermelon, Campari and homemade tonic). There’s a dedicated pisco library to lace your sour with whatever you fancy, but you can’t go wrong with the classic – a concoction of lime, sugar, egg white and Amargo bitters. If you’re in need of a little kick however, the punchy chilli margarita with its jalapeñoinfused Don Julio Blanco tequila, avocado purée and lashings of lime should do the trick. If pisco isn’t your poison, you can also branch out with the help of the Flavour Map, an interactive menu compass designed according to four defining taste metrics. After attempting to navigate the 160 different spirit varieties, a visit to the adjacent restaurant is advisable – not least because executive chef Sanjay Dwivedi’s Peruvian- inspired cuisine made with modern British seasonal ingredients is exquisite. If you can, get a seat near the open ceviche bar and robata grill, so you can watch the chefs prepare traditional tiraditos (try the atun chifa – yellowfin tuna with soy, sesame seeds and shrimp cracker; and the tiradito de hiramasa – kingfish with dashi, truffle oil and chives). The foodie offerings are not confined to the evening, however. This winter COYA has also introduced an express lunch menu, consisting of the likes of ensalada de quinoa and costillas de cerdo (pork back ribs with a tamarind glaze for those who are yet to be initiated when it comes to Peruvian cuisine)that can be paired with a wine flight, or fresh juices for the virtuous. Finish off the meal with the coconut mousse served with pineapple sorbet and lime. Other highlights include the Sunday brunch offering, which you can opt to make bottomless, with the addition of refillable champagne, Peruvian punch and Bloody Marys. There’s also a crèche available if you need a break from the kids. Plans are in the pipeline for a second London venue, which will bring samba, sours and sea bass ceviche to the City in 2017. The opening date has yet to be confirmed, so in the meantime you’ll have to shimmy on down to Piccadilly for your party fix. Make ours a lemongrass pisco. The Express Lunch menu is available Monday to Saturday, £26 for three courses or £38 with a wine pairing, COYA Mayfair, 118 Piccadilly, W1J, coyarestaurant.com
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paradise Rather than jumping on the detoxing bandwagon with a high-octane fitness regime, Jennifer Mason eases into the new year and refreshes body and mind with a visit to Puglia’s Borgo Egnazia
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n the outskirts of the small town of Fasano in Puglia is a luxury hotel that has been designed specifically to blend in with the surrounding countryside. Built as a traditional village or borgo, you’ll find rooms, two-storey suites and larger villas hidden within the whitewashed enclave. A cross between a charming Puglian hamlet and a Hollywood movie set, Borgo Egnazia is full of surprises at every turn. Arriving after dark is a truly magical experience. Strolling through the corridors whose alcoves are dimly lit by hundreds of candles, we eventually find our way out of the hotel building (where there’s a selection of rooms that offer more traditional accommodation) and wander through the stone arch, which marks the entrance to the borgo. Paved streets and narrow alleyways
flanked by whitewashed stone buildings in the traditional Puglian style lead out onto a truly mesmerising sight: the village square, lit by hundreds of flickering lanterns. It’s not hard to see why Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel chose this as the place to host their wedding. Still mentally planning my own nuptials (hey, a girl can dream), I receive the key to my very own townhouse. Decorated inside and out with the accoutrements of a sustainable, eco-conscious neighbourhood (think wheat sheaves and wellies) I pause in my exploration on my Juliet balcony. When the sun rises, I’m certainly not disappointed by the terrace garden, or the panoramic views from the private roof terrace. I’ve come to Borgo Egnazia to experience its famous Vair Spa, but the rest of the hotel deserves a mention too. In the daytime, the walls sparkle bright white in the sunshine. Delicious aromas linger in the air; the food will have you happily returning for seconds (and thirds), and while it’s easy to get lost in the twisting corridors, you won’t mind a bit. In fact, the hotel’s architect, Pino Brescia, designed it deliberately to combat the modern preoccupation with shuttling from one destination to another without appreciating the journey. The longer I spend here, the more I yearn to lie down and let life wash over me for a while. Thankfully, quiet nooks and crannies in which to curl up and read, or simply relax, are in plentiful supply. If it’s complete ‘can’t move a muscle’ relaxation you’re searching for, though, then a visit to the
TRAVEL
treatments (including the Abbel Bel facial that has me in a blissful state almost immediately). But if there’s one particular experience that has me both intrigued and slightly apprehensive, it’s the avemmari session with the spa’s resident shaman, Stefano Battaglia. Through his deep intuition and knowledge of ancient techniques, Stefano begins the session by quizzing me on my lifestyle and what I want to change or rediscover about myself. After our initial conversation, Stefano uses various techniques to connect physically with my inner psyche. Through a series of pressure points and holds I feel key points of tension being unlocked (from areas such as my stomach, where I didn’t even realise I was holding my stress) and even find myself in a trance-like state when Stefano moves to support and realign my neck. Vair Spa is a must. Forget your typical spa menu of massages and facials; at Vair the experience is tailored to suit both your physical and psychological needs. I’ve been recommended the spa’s three-day Tarant Programme. Described as a ‘vital revolution to retrieve instinct and truthfulness’, this women-only treatment includes experiences such as the psycho-aroma therapy (which uses your sense of smell to reveal your body’s subconscious cries for help). Following a conversation with spa director Patrizia Bortolin, I experience a variety of
The longer I spend here, the more I yearn to lie down and let life wash over me for a while Once I’m back in the land of the conscious (just about), we discuss how I feel and Stefano offers some valuable advice on how I can recapture this feeling every day. Thankfully, his tips include a large glass of wine (Italian, of course!) so I know it’s advice I can happily follow. After three days of pure escapism, it’s time to return to the real world. I don’t think I’ve ever been more reluctant to leave a place – and it’s not just because of the beauty of the surroundings, or the plushness of the spa. There’s a deep sense of peace here that has made it remarkably easy to embrace the wellness teachings. Back in London, it’s a feeling I hold on to: the sensation of sun on my face, the scent of lemon groves, which I use as a mental talisman to ward off the overwhelming chaos of life in the big city. NEED TO KNOW Borgo Egnazia has rooms from €220 a night, based on two adults sharing on a B&B basis. The Tarant Programme at the Vair Spa costs €1,250, excluding accommodation. For further information and bookings, visit borgoegnazia.com
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ALL PHOTOGRAPHY BY OLI ANDERSON
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once read that James Cameron, acclaimed film director and the first solo diver to reach earth’s deepest point in a souped-up submarine, took inspiration for the phantasmagoric world of Avatar from the underwater realm. Drifting over a radiant reef in Indonesia’s remote Raja Ampat islands, surrounded by pulsating coral walls and vast schools
ALL PHOTOGRAPHY BY OLI ANDERSON
of technicolour fish, the similarities are striking. This reef, I think, could inspire more than a film. It could inspire an entire people to migrate beneath the waves and live out a siren-like fantasy for evermore. Raja Ampat is the sort of wilderness that dreams are made of; a sequin trail of limestone outcrops, some tangled with jungle and some edged with ivory sand, scattered off the
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Annie Biziou travels from reef to rainforest in Indonesia, encountering vibrant coral kingdoms and ancient jungle temples along the way
coast of West Papua province. Translated as Four Kings, it’s composed of four main islands – Waigeo, Misool, Batanta and Salawati – and some 1,500 jagged islets. While the landscape above the waves is arresting, Raja Ampat is known as the most biodiverse marine environment on earth and as such, it’s a true mecca for underwater aficionados. Indeed, the few islanders that inhabit these shores descend from a
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mix of nomadic Melanesian, Malaysian and aboriginal tribes, their heritage intrinsically linked to the sea. There’s little by way of luxury accommodation and those that aren’t certified scuba divers would do well to hire one of the private yachts plying these waters. I choose to pitch up on Kri Island in the Dampier Strait, where Dutch expat and pioneering diver Max Ammer runs boutique retreats
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Sorido Bay and Kri Eco Resort. Accommodation is simple but charming; each spacious villa is set on a stretch of butter-soft sand sheltered by spindly palms. Sorido Bay is the newest, with air-conditioning to combat the humidity, but Kri Eco Resort’s romantic stilted villas have soul on their side. Ammer plays a hand in Raja Ampat’s conservation by discouraging unsustainable fishing methods, but his plans also help locals support their way of life without harming the ecosystem. For instance, the Kayak4Conservation project employs islanders to help build sleek fibreglass kayaks (with moulds imported from South Africa) and trains up prospective local guides. There’s also a dedicated scientists’ complex in the works to house the marine biologists that study here – perhaps most talked about is Dr. Gerry Allen, who recorded 374 species of reef fish in a single dive on the house reef, Cape Kri. New species are discovered regularly, alongside the resident blue-ringed octopus, venomous sea snakes, bizarre wobbegong sharks and huge oceanic manta rays. It’s here that I listen to the echo of birdsong against the cliffs, swim in bays populated by a thousand stingless jellyfish, claim driftwood as a picnic table on a deserted beach, seek out the elusive bird of paradise in the jungle canopy, and spend so much time in the ocean that I might’ve grown gills. My final night culminates in a trademark fiery sunset and, a couple of internal flights later, I find myself on the enigmatic, volcano-studded island of Java. Landing in the cultural hub of Jogjakarta, known for traditional weaving, dance, music and silverwork, I’m driven through dense forests to my lavish countryside retreat, Amanjiwo, to catch a couple of hours of sleep before rising in darkness. The call of prayer swells against the Menoreh Hills as I make my somnambulist’s trip to the greatest sight in Central Java – Borobudur Temple, where sunrise coaxes mist from the earth and bell-shaped stupas glow pearlescent in the light of dawn. On the horizon, the silhouettes of Merapi and Sumbing, two of Java’s 39 sacred volcanoes, appear suddenly and then vanish like a magic trick, engulfed by some imperceptible haze. “In summertime, the sun rises right between those two peaks,” my guide murmurs, shading
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Raja Ampat is the sort of wilderness that dreams are made of; a sequin trail of limestone outcrops, some tangled with jungle his eyes against the brightening sky. He tells me that the Javanese believe the temple was built over the course of a single night, no mean feat considering that half a million stone blocks went into making this not just the largest Buddhist monument in Indonesia, but also the largest in the world. “Luckily,” he smiles, “they had a little help from the gods.” From where we stand, encircled by an ocean of mist and the hush of dawn, at Arupadhatu, the top of the temple representing the realm of the gods, it’s easy to fathom a higher power. Built some time between 775 and 850AD Borobudur Temple was abandoned – some say in the wake of a devastating volcanic eruption, some say due to the growing uptake of Islam in Indonesia – before a restoration project took place in the 1970s and the site achieved its UNESCO World Heritage status. Coiled beneath us in tiered paths linked by steep stairways, 2,672 relief panels mark the body of the temple, each one carved with the story of Siddhartha. Borobudur’s passage through time hasn’t been an easy one and volcanic eruptions have marred its mighty façade. But in a twist of favour, the communities
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that struggle alongside these so-named ‘Fire Mountains’ have volcanic ash to thank for enriching their land with nutrients that allow crops to grow in abundance. Truth be told, there’s nowhere more illustrative of Java’s luscious landscapes than Amanjiwo. Enclosed in a natural amphitheatre in the hills and fronting of verdant rice paddies, Amanjiwo’s decadent villas keep Javanese heritage in sight at all times. Alfresco pavilions, some with private plunge pools, some with views all the way to the Borobudur Temple – make outdoor living all the more alluring. My days here are spent cycling through local villages, wandering the rice paddies among farmers in bamboo hats, idling beside Amanjiwo’s opulent pool and dining on more local delicacies than I care to admit. “It’s nature on steroids,” I catch a fellow guest whispering one morning. To me, Indonesia is all that and more; a country whose people live in the shadow of mother nature’s unpredictable wrath, land shaped by the Indian Ocean on one side and the Pacific on the other, where I’ve still got some 17,000 perplexing, hypnotic islands left to discover.
NEED TO KNOW Sorido Bay and Kri Eco Resort from £2,255 and £1,255 respectively per person per week, based on two guests sharing a cottage including full board accommodation and unlimited diving, papua-diving.com Amanjiwo from £490 per suite per night, amanjiwo.com. The closest airport is Jogjakarta, a 90-minute drive away. Ultimate Indonesian Yachts offer private charter yachts in Raja Ampat, ultimate-indonesian-yachts.com Flights from the UK reach Sorong (Raja Ampat) via Jakarta (Java). Jogjakarta is a short internal flight from Jakarta
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Living the high life Unrivalled luxury, decadence and stunning surroundings – you can’t go wrong with a ski or snowboarding holiday at L’Apogée Courchevel, writes Francesca Lee-Rogers
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anuary brings with it a new year and a time when winter sports connoisseurs hit the slopes. Not only is escaping to the mountains a popular way to see in arguably the most depressing month in style, skiing or snowboarding is an ideal way to burn off festive overindulgence with friends or family. Or if New Year’s resolutions aren’t on your agenda, you can’t go wrong with a spot of après-ski, sipping toffee vodka ‘seasonaire’-style. One of the most coveted destinations is Les Trois Vallées in the French Alps. With 600km of pistes to explore, it’s the largest ski area in the world with Méribel, Val Thorens and Courchevel leading the way as some of the most exclusive
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resorts. Luckily for those who don’t have their own chalets, L’Apogée is a very special offering to the latter destination, which has become synonymous with fashion houses such as Prada, Chanel and Gucci as well as many Michelin-star restaurants. Located at 1,850m, the hotel (which cost €100 million to build) opened in December 2013 and is situated on what was once an Olympic ski jump in the Jardin Alpin area, affording the most incredible views.
There’s nothing better than waking up to the mountainous outlook breathing in the alpine air, fresh coffee in hand I visit in peak season and on arrival am struck by the homely and sophisticated chalet feel of the hotel, which has been brought to life by architect and interior design team Joseph Dirand and India Mahdavi. Wool plaid carpets, supple leather and reams of plush velvet give a sense of indulgence to Le Bar de L’Apogée, while a fire, sofas and throws add warmth and cosiness to the space. It makes the most idyllic spot for lunch, and with hearty food such as black truffle risotto and macaroni pasta with smoked salmon on offer, it’s easy to ski and flop here. However, for those who wish to return to the slopes after regaining their energy, it is effortlessly done thanks to the exceptional level of service at L’Apogée. Having been on many a ski holiday, I often find myself lugging my skis over one shoulder, waddling in my boots while trying not to fall over with each of my poles at vertical and horizontal angles respectively. Instead, not only is my equipment expertly fitted at the Ski Room, my skis and poles are placed directly on the ski run outside of the hotel, so all I have to do is click myself in and go. It is the ultimate in ski in/ski out. And this season, with the opportunity to ski with Olympic medallist, Florence Masnada, what’s not to love?
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Once the final run of the day is completed, the rooms, suites and even penthouse are a welcome retreat for some much-needed R&R. I stay in a Prestige Room, which overlooks the snowy slopes that sweep down into Courchevel valley. It is quite the chocolate box view and, in my opinion, is certainly worthy of the extra expense; there’s nothing better than waking up to the mountainous outlook breathing in the alpine air, fresh coffee in hand, of course. The room has a home-from-home feel; the furnishings are sumptuous with a touch of gingham, there’s a scent of cedar in the air while the extravagant Fior di Bosco marble bathroom is the perfect place to unwind and soak in the tub. For further relaxation, the hotel’s spa, complete with Sisley treatments, subterranean pool, aromatherapy room, sauna and
salt sauna, is just the ticket. Guests should ensure they book tables at the hotel’s restaurants: Le Comptoir de L’Apogée and Koori for lunch or dinner. Headed up by chef Jean-Luc Lefrançois, Le Comptoir centres around using the world’s finest produce, with a French gourmand’s interpretation. I highly recommend the chateaubriand with voisin potatoes and forest mushroom cromesquis. The latter eatery takes its name from the Japanese word for ice, and the menu is extensive; make sure you indulge in a selection of sushi rolls, tempura and meat and fish dishes. The pastry chef, Eve Moncorger, also deserves a special mention; her desserts are a work of art and the Guanaja chocolate soufflé tart is well worth the extra calories. If you’re looking for exclusivity, unrivalled luxury and exceptional service, L’Apogée has it all. It’s been a welcome addition to Courchevel for the past three years, and many more to come for that matter.
NEED TO KNOW A deluxe room starts from £800 during low season and £1,850 during peak season. A prestige room starts from approximately £1,050 during low season and £2,180 during peak season. Rates are based on single or double occupancy, per accommodation, per night and include half board (breakfast, lunch or dinner up to a value of €150 per person). L’Apogée is part of Oetker Collection, oetkercollection.com
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YO U M AY NEVER M A K E I T BA C K HOME T H E SA M E.
GET LOST FOR LESS. BOOK NOW AND SAVE 50%. GoToBermuda.co.uk/pinksale *At participating hotels. Rules and restrictions apply.
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The royal treatment Expect an intimate beachside paradise at Jumeirah Vittaveli’s new Royal Residence when it opens this month. The fivebedroom retreat on the sugar white sands of Bolifushi in the Maldivian South Malé Atoll, comes with its own private beach, two pools and jetty, as well as an overwater bar, a sunken lounge surrounded by a fragrant lily pond and a well-stocked wine cellar. In the unlikely event that you tire of the food cooked by your personal chef, the rest of the resort, with its restaurants, dive base and spa, is only a (chauffeurdriven) golf buggy ride away. From $25,000 a night, jumeirah.com
Travel news WORDS: ANNA THORNHILL
Culinary peaks The allure of Badrutt’s Palace has long tempted many a famous face through its doors – and now it has enticed three-Michelin-starred chef Andreas Caminada to join the fold. Caminada’s new restaurant will be making itself at home in the St. Moritz hotel this winter season. Named IGNIV, the yet-to-be-revealed dining room promises haute cuisine designed with sharing in mind. There’s more than the food to feast on however – the views rival those of the hotel’s infinity pool, which frames the snow-covered Engadin Valley and Lake St. Moritz. See for yourself when it opens this month. From £380 a night, badruttspalace.com
DIGITAL DETOX Mandarin Oriental New York’s Digital Wellness Retreat is bringing some shut-eye to the city that never sleeps, by teaching its spa guests the art of switching off. Designed for those who are slaves to their inboxes, the detox begins by asking guests to surrender their phones, before experiencing a treatment designed to ground both body and mind. An aromatic bath and massage that concentrates on the head, eyes, neck and shoulders completes the package. Digital Wellness Retreat $325 on weekdays and $345 on weekends, mandarinoriental.com
A weekend in Provence Battling the Christmas bulge in darkest January when you’d rather be inside with a hot water bottle and a packet of Hobnobs requires determination. Cue Domaine de Manville in the South of France. The Provence retreat, located in a picturesque valley, has launched a series of wellness escapes where rejuvenation comes in the form of personalised spa treatments, yoga, hikes in the Alpilles Natural Regional Park and bike rides through the 100-hectare estate. Lessons on holistic nutrition, naturopathy and detox coaching might just help you kick the biscuit cravings too. 27-30 January, wellness escapes from £1,741 per person for a three-night stay on a full board basis in a luxury villa, domainedemanville.fr 102
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HOMES SHOWCASING THE
finest HOMES & PROPERTY FROM THE BEST ESTATE AGENTS
ELEGANT &
EXCLUSIVE The latest prime properties
Image courtesy of Knight Frank
St Anns Terrace, St John's Wood NW8 Beautiful three bedroom house with private garden This truly stunning freehold house is in a prominent location by St. John's Wood High Street. Master bedroom with en suite bathroom, 2 further bedrooms, family bathroom, 2 reception rooms, dining room, study guest WC and a private garden. EPC: D. Approximately 225 sq m (2,422 sq ft). Freehold
Offers in Excess of £3,000,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/st-johns-wood stjohnswood@knightfrank.com 020 8022 6433
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/SJW160244
21 St Anns Terrace St John's Wood Magazine xxPRINTT
01/12/2016 13:07:49
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Clifton Gardens, Maida Vale W9 Six bedroom house in excellent condition This immaculate white stucco period house is located in Little Venice. The property is in excellent decorative order throughout and offers light and exceptional volume. Master bedroom with en suite bathroom, 4 further bedrooms ( 2 with en suite), further bedroom/gym, 2 double reception rooms, kitchen/dining area, office, 2 guest WC's, balcony, terrace and a garden. EPC:D. Approximately 454 sq m (4,887 sq ft). Freehold
Guide Price: £7,350,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/st-johns-wood stjohnswood@knightfrank.com 020 8022 6433
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/POD160016
25 Clifton Gardens St John's Wood Magazine PRINT
01/12/2016 13:05:18
Property news
SAVILE ROW IN 1955, PHOTOGRAPHY: BEN BROOKSBANK, GEOGRAPH
PrimeResi brings you the latest news in prime property and development in London
To have and to hold New planning rules to protect five beloved areas of Westminster
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estminster Council has brought in a set of new measures to prevent Savile Row, Mayfair, Harley Street, St James’ and Portland Place from losing their identity. Special Policy Areas came into effect in November, allowing planners to reject proposals that would threaten the character of the five iconic locations and the world famous industries that put them on the map. The move, which has been triggered by the disappearance of a number of antiques dealers from Mayfair and St James’ in recent years, aims to safeguard
PrimeQResi Journal of Luxury Property
specialist traders – in particular the bespoke tailors of Savile Row – and prevent an invasion of global brands from changing the make-up and character of the historic streets. “Like a good suit, planning policy should be made to measure,” said Cllr Robert Davis MBE DL, Westminster City Council Deputy Leader and Cabinet Member for the Built Environment. “The 17.5m people who visit London each year come to experience our capital’s distinctive character. “It’s unthinkable that world renowned destinations such as Savile Row, which is
synonymous with quality tailoring, could become indistinguishable from any other high street around the world. Our historic tailors and art traders are coming under intense pressure from other disparate users eager to rent in the area. “We are using our powers to protect some of the capital’s most valuable assets and create environments where specialist traders can thrive. Special Policy Areas will ensure we retain and nurture the world leading expertise that made these areas famous in the first place.”
PROPERTY
Delightful by design: Green light for Qatari Diar’s US Embassy plans
W
estminster planners have given the go-ahead to Qatari Diar’s proposals to turn the US Embassy on Grosvenor Square into a David Chipperfield-designed five-star hotel in November. The scheme will almost double the size of Eero Saarinen’s Grade II-listed 1960s fortress from its current 260,000 sq ft to nearly 500,000 sq ft, creating a hotel with
137 rooms, a spa and a ballroom. The additional space will be conjured by adding two new basement floors and a mezzanine basement floor, as well as building an extension at the rear of the building from the second to fifth-floor levels. Initial plans were put forward in April, and Westminster has concluded that “the proposed extensions have been carefully
designed to respect the retained façades, drawing inspiration from Saarinen’s ideas, and are of high design quality.” A suite of other game-changing schemes is currently in progress on the square, including Finchatton’s transformation of the former US Naval HQ (at No. 20) and Lodha’s reimagining of the former Canadian High Commission (at No. 1).
Derelict Hampstead pub makes way for 22 apartments Linea Homes gets the go-ahead for a tenstorey scheme complete with an M&S on the Finchley Road
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outique North London developer Linea Homes has been granted planning permission to transform a derelict site on the Finchley Road into a new residential-led development. The new Skylark Court replaces an empty former pub – most recently operating as the less than salubrious 3one7 – and the adjoining land, next to Finchley Road & Frognal overground station, with a ten-storey building designed by award-winning architect Amin Taha. Linea’s project will deliver 22 one-, two-, and three-bed apartments across 25,000 sq ft, plus a 5,000 sq ft ground floor retail unit, which has already been pre-let to Marks & Spencer. Architect Taha has taken inspiration from the nearby red Edwardian mansion blocks and the Victorian parades along the Finchley Road, creating a contemporary building of structural sandstone. Construction is expected to begin in 2017. Gavin Sherman, director at Linea Homes comments: “The existing site has blighted this stretch of Finchley Road for years, so we are delighted that planning permission has been granted to transform this run-down site into an iconic and much needed development of retail and new homes. The pre-letting to Marks & Spencer is also great news as the shop will provide a valuable new amenity and jobs for residents and local shoppers.”
Rare Marylebone development site up for £7.5m A rebuild scheme with consent for six lateral properties comes onto the market
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n enticing development opportunity has come up for sale in Marylebone, arguably the hottest part of Prime Central London right now. The terrace of properties on Homer Row, which is about a five minute walk from the High Street and Chiltern Firehouse, has consent for a knock-down and rebuild to deliver six lateral residential apartments, plus a commercial (D2) space on the lower ground floor. Priced at £7.5m, the 196 sq m site is set over three floors and a partial basement and has been employed up until now as a Pilates centre and flats. The planning provides for outside space and all but one of the apartments will have a balcony, while the lower ground floor unit will benefit from a courtyard garden. Agents Rokstone thinks the lower ground floor could make a great residents’ gym. primeresi.com
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Whitehall Court, St James’s SW1A
ÂŁ4,850,000
This exceptional penthouse is uniquely decorated to a fantastic specification and is situated on the top floor of this prestigious Victorian mansion. Comprising vaulted ceilings and a beautiful spiral staircase leading up from the ample living room, which provides a wonderful entertaining space. Breath-taking views of the River Thames and the London Eye are visible from the large roof terrace. EPC rating D. Approximately 2,695 sq ft (250 sq m). Two reception rooms | Kitchen | Two bedrooms | Two bathrooms | Large roof terrace | Lift | 24-hour concierge service | Stunning views
Leasehold: approximately 71 years remaining
77-79 Ebury Street, London SW1W 0NZ sothebysrealty.co.uk +44 20 7495 9580 | london@sothebysrealty.co.uk
sothebysrealty.co.uk
Portland Place, Marylebone W1
£17,950,000
Situated principally on the 8th floor of this imposing building, the apartment is spectacular in proportions and can be considered a true Penthouse with direct lift access and fabulous panoramic views across London. Benefitting from an abundance of natural light and space, the property provides exceptional living accommodation throughout. EPC rating C. Approximately 7,355 sq ft (683 sq m). Three reception rooms | Kitchen/breakfast room | Seven bedrooms | Seven bathrooms | Media room | Swimming pool |Pool terrace | Direct lift access | Day porter | Private parking | 360 degree views
Leasehold: approximately 90 years remaining
© 2016 UK Sotheby’s International Realty. All rights reserved. Sotheby’s International Realty is a registered trademark licensed to UK Sotheby’s International Realty in the UK. Each offïce is independently owned and operated. All information non - contractual, approximate and subject to error, change and withdrawal without notice. Rent excludes administration fees. Please contact our offïces who can provide this information.
A Recently Refurbished Two Bedroom Flat with Private Patio Upper Wimpole Street, Marylebone, W1G
• 2 Bedrooms • 2 Bathrooms • Kitchen • Reception Room • Utility Room • Approximately 1,108 Sq Ft • Energy Rating: E
£1,050 Per Week Furnished or Unfurnished Kay & Co Marylebone & Fitzrovia Lettings
020 3394 0027
marylebone@kayandco.com kayandco.com Letting fees apply. Please visit our website for further details: www.kayandco.com/lettings/lettings-charges
Three Bedroom Split Level Flat New Cavendish Street, Marylebone, W1W
• 3 Bedrooms • 2 Bathrooms • Modern Kitchen • Large Reception Room • Duplex • Approximately 1,356 Sq Ft • Energy Rating: C
£1,395 Per Week Unfurnished Kay & Co Marylebone & Fitzrovia Lettings
020 3394 0027
marylebone@kayandco.com kayandco.com Letting fees apply. Please visit our website for further details: www.kayandco.com/lettings/lettings-charges
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Mary
Beautiful Apartment in Marylebone’s Finest Mansion Blocks
Kay & Co Marylebone & Fitzrovia Sales 20a Paddington Street, London, W1U 5QP
4 Bedrooms • 3 Bathrooms • Guest WC • Kitchen • Reception Room Utility Room • Approximately 2,297 Sq Ft • Energy Rating: D
020 3394 0027
George Street, Marylebone, W1H
£5,250,000 Share of Freehold
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marylebone@kayandco.com kayandco.com
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Price: £3,295,000
MOLYNEUX STREET, MARYLEBONE W1H Molyneux Street is considered one of Marylebone’s best residential streets. The Freehold house with it’s own private terrace has been redeveloped to exacting standards throughout whilst maintaining many of the beautiful original Georgian features. This house is the perfect home in the heart of Marylebone. Molyneux Street is a wide street with beautiful Georgian houses on both sides. With the redevelopment of Elliott House adding further value, it is an optimum time to purchase a Freehold house on this street. This house is considered one of the best on the street as it has been meticulously refurbished by the owner and interior designer Lesley Kingsbury. The attention to detail is paramount. The redesign and refurbishment of the house took over two years to perfect and this includes the addition of a large rear extension and lowering of the basement level which allowed for good ceiling heights and direct access to a beautiful garden terrace on the lower ground floor. The house also benefits from a good technical set up with CAT 5 cabling, Bowers & Wilkins ceiling speakers, air conditioning in upper rooms and a lighting scene system in the lower ground floor.
020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ enquiries@rokstone.com
»» »» »» »» »»
Freehold House 4 bedrooms Garden & terrace Refurbished by interior designer Lesley Kingsbury 1761 sqft (163.6 sqm)
WAT E R SI DE H O MES FAS H I O N E D FO R C I T Y LI F E C A N A L S I D E CO L L E C T I O N N OW L AU N CH E D Become neighbours with Central Saint Martins, Louis Vuitton, Everyman Cinema and the new Thomas Heatherwick designed shopping destination, Coal Drops Yard. Be part of London’s best connected neighbourhood. Studio apartments from £810,000.*
* Price correc t at time of going to press .
Brilliant exteriors, breathtaking interiors.
Register your interest at gasholderslondon .co.uk or book an appointment +4 4 (0)20 7205 4349 to v i ew o u r s a l e s g a l l e r y a n d s h ow a p a r tm e n t o n G o o d s Way, K i n g ’s C ro s s N 1 C 4 U R
so ld Bryanston Square
London W2
A stunning 3 bedroom, 2nd floor apartment (with lift) measuring approx. 2,700 sq ft, with picturesque views over the award-winning Bryanston Square Gardens. The property is located on the superior eastern terrace & benefits from westerly views & sunlight, high ceilings, a well-proportioned reception room, an eat-in kitchen & utility room. The apartment also has the advantage of private off street parking & an onsite porter. EPC rating D
Hyde Park
0207 298 5900 sales.hydepark@chestertons.com
ÂŁ5,750,000 share of freehold
If you’re thinking of selling or letting your home in the New Year, contact us today. Mayfair Sales: 020 7629 4513 Lettings: 020 7288 8301 47 South Audley Street London, W1K 2QA
Hyde Park Sales: 020 7298 5900 Lettings: 020 7298 5950 40 Connaught Street London, W2 2AB
Marylebone Lettings: 020 8104 7550 56 Queen Anne Street London, W1G 8LA
Decadence Defined
Crafted to showcase complexity and depth, Rare Cask is drawn from the broadest spectrum of casks, 16 different types, ever identified by the Master Whisky Maker. Far less than 1% of those casks maturing at the distillery have been identified as fitting to bestow the Rare Cask name. With rarity at its core, this is a whisky crafted from casks so rare they will never again be used in any Macallan whisky. Combining Spanish and American sherry seasoned oak casks, a high proportion of them first fill, gives rise to an exquisite whisky with a splendidly rich hue, and an unmistakable woody whisky. This is a single malt which captures a true decadence; its creation goes beyond any other Macallan whisky and its rarity is absolute. It is a single malt of such diversity and intricacy it challenges the very conventions of whisky creation.
F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N P LE A S E V I S I T T H EM ACA LLA N . CO M PLEASE SAVOUR RESPONSIBLY