Vantage Magazine October 2015 by Runwild Media Group

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Issue 63

Contents 

12 | Artistic Differences Olivier Widmaier Picasso reveals what it’s like to live in the shadow of his famous grandfather’s formidable legacy

16 | Dinner Date Miles Aldridge on his technicolour fashion photography and hosting a dinner party at M restaurant to celebrate Frieze London

20 | Off the Scale Go behind the scenes at the Steinway & Sons’ factory, where time-honoured craftsmanship and technology are joining forces

44 | Art Alphabet Our top picks of the best art fairs, festivals and exhibitions that London has to offer this season

62 | Back to the Drawing Board? New book The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration leaves us wondering what the future holds for the craft in a digital age

77 | Prints Charming The Fashion and Textile Museum celebrates Liberty’s 140th anniversary with a new exhibition, Liberty in Fashion

104 | Dragon’s Den

Discover tales of dragons and mermaids on a voyage to the forgotten islands of Indonesia

regulars - 25 -

collection

- 39 -

spotlight

- 51 -

fashion & beauty

- 73 -

HOME & interiors

- 85 -

health & family

- 93 -

food & drink

- 97 -

the art of travel

- 108 -

property

editor's letter

october 2015 / ISSUE 63 acting Editor Lauren Romano Collection Editor Annabel Harrison Contributing Editors Richard Brown Olivia Sharpe editorial assistants Ellen Millard Chloë Riddle Sub Editor Jasmine Phillips Senior Designer Daniel Poole

From the editor As is the case in most industries, having a famous surname can get you noticed, and the art world is no exception. But as Olivier Widmaier Picasso, grandson of the famous artist explains, living in the shadow of an illustrious relative comes with its own challenges. “It is unusual to have a grandfather who so many other people have feelings about,” he admits. “There are writers, journalists, museum curators and experts for whom Picasso clearly changed their lives.” Jack Watkins meets the Paris-based music and TV producer to discuss behind-the-scenes photos of his grandfather and other celebrated artists at work, including Marc Chagall and Joan Miró, which feature as part of a new exhibition (p.12).

Production Hugo Wheatley Oscar Viney Jamie Steele Alice Ford Client Relationship Director Friday Dalrymple Executive Director Sophie Roberts General Manager Fiona Fenwick Managing Director Eren Ellwood Proudly published and printed in the UK by

There’s certainly no shortage of art on the agenda this month. The highlight in many a collector’s calendar, Frieze London returns to Regent’s Park for its 13th year. Ahead of the contemporary art fair’s arrival, Rebecca Wallersteiner picks her ones to watch, including north-west London’s Frank Auerbach and his abstract depictions of Camden (p.42). Miles Aldridge is also getting in on the action by hosting a dinner party to toast the fair. I speak to the irreverent photographer about learning the tricks of the trade from his art director father, getting his big break at Vogue and the often antagonistic relationship between artist and editor. “Just imagine what the Pope expected from Michelangelo when he commissioned him to paint the Sistine Chapel,” he tells me. “It was almost certainly not the orgy of flesh and sensuality that he got” (p.16).

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Elsewhere we round up the art and design events that deserve to be pencilled in your diary (p.44); and Kari Colmans gets back to the drawing board with The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration, tracing the history of the medium and finding out what the future holds for the craft (p.62). Another blast from the crafting past comes courtesy of the Liberty textile storeroom where I meet archivist Anna Buruma ahead of a new exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum. After 140 years and counting at the forefront of fashion, I find out why the Liberty name continues to get noticed today (p.77).

Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Runwild Media Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved. DISTRIBUTION Vantage magazine is distributed throughout Hampstead, Highgate, Primrose Hill, St John’s Wood, Maida Vale, Marylebone, Regent’s Park and the surrounding areas. For complete maps please visit our website.

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Artistic

Differences

As an exhibition of behind-the-scenes studio photos featuring Picasso and his contemporaries opens, Jack Watkins meets Olivier Widmaier Picasso to talk about living in the shadow of his famous grandfather’s formidable legacy 

s surnames go, Picasso isn’t as unremarkable as the Joneses and Browns of the world; it’s the sort of moniker that's likely to raise an eyebrow both in and out of artistic circles. In his engaging book Picasso: The Real Family Story, however, Olivier Widmaier Picasso reflects on only becoming aware of the full accomplishments of his illustrious grandfather when news was broadcast of his death in 1973. “It’s true,” he says, speaking on the phone from his home in Paris, where he recently curated an exhibition for the Sofitel hotel chain starring his grand-père that has just opened in London for the first leg of a global tour. “I was not even 12-years-old when I properly discovered my grandfather. Of course, at home we had paintings, drawings and souvenirs. My grandmother Marie-Thérèse was one of his muses, and she often visited us, so I did have some sort of vision of him. But it was not until the day he died that I started receiving lots of answers to questions. I had been busy living my own life as a young boy and up to that point I had no idea he was ‘the great painter’, the man whose work was so important to 20th century art.” Elsewhere in his book, Olivier, who is a lawyer as well as a music and TV producer, talks of the unusual demands

Above: Olivier Widmaier Picasso Right: Pablo Picasso and his model Sylvette David © F. Pages/Paris Match/Scoop

of living with the legacy – one that he chose to adopt when he officially added Picasso to his name in 1986. Normally, after mourning a deceased relative, the image of that person gradually fades and disappears, except among those who really knew them, but with Picasso, Olivier says that such a thing is impossible. “His presence and image continue to make a mark on our destiny – we cannot escape it,” he maintains. As someone who has often seemed to act as a spokesperson, or defender, of the artist’s reputation in recent decades, how heavily does the challenge of “living with Picasso, living next to Picasso, living without Picasso,” as he puts it, bear down on him? “Well, it is unusual to have a grandfather who so many other people have feelings about, although it is only my mother who can call him Papa,” he replies. “But I’m not the only one who enjoys his work. There are writers, journalists, museum curators and experts for whom Picasso clearly changed their lives. And as long as they have a respect for him, a respect for the truth, I am fine with that.” Olivier says that he only really started to get involved in trying to correct some of the myths (philandering womaniser, closet homosexual) around the time he produced a CD-ROM on his grandfather’s art in 1995. “At that time there were a lot of rumours about him that made no sense. I think it started in the 1980s with certain magazines and non-authorised biographies. Did you know there are more than 4,000 books about my grandfather? I haven’t read all of them, but I did read the best because I wanted to find answers. Partly this was because a lot of my family just didn’t care;

“It is unusual to have a grandfather who so many other people have feelings about”

interview

Vantage | 13

all that mattered to them was their own past with my grandfather. But to me it was important, as a person in the media who understands the impact of TV, books and magazines, that the public image was a correct one.” He tries to be diplomatic when reflecting on the Surviving Picasso biopic of 1996, which painted a distinctly unflattering picture. “The film had been produced too quickly, without the consent of the family, and Hollywood tried to make the story more romantic, or more tragic,” explains Olivier. “It showed a realistic picture of Picasso through the performance of Anthony Hopkins, but there was no genius. It imagined him waking up every morning thinking about the bad things he could do to his entourage. There were no paintings.” Picasso clearly was no saint, and Olivier doesn’t try to reclaim him as one, but his central argument is that all those magnificent art works would not have been possible without a love for humanity, and that his dedication to creativity came at a price. “He was inspired by people, principally women, and by the landscape and objects. He saw things the rest of us don’t see, and if he had to deal with children, grandchildren and friends, he didn’t have time to go to his atelier. I discovered that at the end of his life he was fighting against the clock. He was focusing on work and asking his wife Jacqueline to take care of the rest. ‘Please don’t bother me with visitors, I have work,’ he told her, and he was always preoccupied with it. We have to respect that aspect of his life.”

interview

Yet Picasso was certainly no recluse; he was the prototype media-friendly artist, shrewdly aware of the effect of cultivating a public image. Olivier’s exhibition, Revealed features a selection of photographs of the world’s most renowned artists at work in their studios and reflects the way that, unlike some of his contemporaries, Picasso often welcomed the attention of photographers and allowed them into his private workspace. Drawn from the archive of the French weekly Paris Match, Olivier whittled down more than 1,000 pictures to just 30 images, and he believes his choices highlight the differences between the painters. “Some artists don’t care about the photographer, they adopted an ‘OK, you want to take a picture? Come in!’ stance. Others shunned the attention and intrusion and had more of a ‘you can take the picture and leave’ attitude.” He cites Matisse as an example of the latter. “He wasn’t like my grandfather. He was very shy – he didn’t have such a notorious love life, nor was he always [surrounded by] paparazzi. So you see him accepting the necessity of having his picture taken in his bedroom. He is sick and has problems with his hands, which means he is obliged to paint with a long brush. He permits the photo, as he knows he must be recognised by a public audience, but he’s not happy with it. Miro wasn’t so reluctant, but again he was quite shy – as you can see from the photo he keeps his distance from the photographer.” In other instances the painter evidently understands the power of a photograph and sets the scene. “I recently interviewed Jeff Koons in New York for an American TV documentary I am producing. He knows the importance of showing himself wherever possible and of controlling the image,” Olivier explains. “Revealed reflects that significant change in the attitudes of artists over the last 60 years. They now understand the impact of their public image.” The show won’t be the last art aficionados hear from Pablo’s grandson. He is currently correcting the translation of his most recent book Picasso: Portrait Intime (An Intimate Portrait). In researching it he says he was astonished to find that, at a time when he was still an impecunious artist living in Montmartre, Picasso made 800 studies in preparation for his celebrated Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. “You know, sometimes I look at his paintings and think about all the time he spent on those canvases and he makes me tired,” Olivier laughs. “And yet he was far younger than I am today when he painted many of them.”

“I look at his paintings and think about all the time he spent on those canvases and he makes me tired”

Revealed is at the Sofitel Hotel, St James until the end of October, sofitelstjames.com Clockwise from top left: Kees van Dongen and Brigitte Bardot © Izis/Paris Match/Scoop; Marc Chagall painting the ceiling of the Opera Garnier © Izis/ Paris Match/Scoop; Joan Miro in Mallorca © Tony Saulnier/Paris Match/Scoop; Pablo Picasso at Cannes Festival, 1956 © J. Garofalo/M.Simon/Paris Match/ Scoop; Kees van Dongen in his workshop © R. Vital/Paris Match/ Scoop

Vantage | 15

Pop Wife #1, 2007, chromogenic print, courtesy of Miles Aldridge

interview

DinDate ner

Best known for his technicolour, Valley of the Dolls-esque fashion photography, Miles Aldridge will be hosting a onenight-only dinner at restaurant M, in honour of Frieze London. He talks to Lauren Romano about borrowing his dad’s camera, getting his big break at Vogue and inviting Federico Fellini to his fantasy dinner party 

he first camera Miles Aldridge started out with was of the video, not SLR, variety and his photographic portrayals of modern life still lean heavily on cinematic influences. So much so that when tasked with creating a fantasy dinner party guest list the first name that sprung to mind was the late, great Italian film director Federico Fellini. I mention seating plans, fantasy or otherwise, as this month Aldridge will be toasting the art calendar’s autumnal highlight, Frieze London, by throwing a special dinner party at restaurant M in the City. Catchily named ‘Art on a Plate and in a Frame’, the event will see Aldridge regale diners with the stories behind some of his most celebrated pieces, some of which hang in the restaurant itself. Although he’ll be staying out of the kitchen (executive chef Michael Reid will be in charge of the food) several of his most well-known works feature a culinary appliance or two; a woman whisking up a cake mix here; another

stocking the fridge with colourful bottles of fizz there. Many of Aldridge’s dazed but alluring domestic goddesses radiate a fine line between beauty and unease. Having had his work published everywhere from Vogue to The New York Times, as well as included as part of the permanent collection at the National Portrait Gallery and the V&A, Aldridge is at the epicentre of an industry that is often tarnished with the consumerist brush. But his vivid, subversive compositions provide a counterpoint, one that recognises that you can’t buy happiness at any price. For his acclaimed 2013 collection I Only Want You to Love Me, Aldridge didn’t disguise the fact that his mother was at the root of a number of the unsettling images – she died suddenly when he was in his 20s leaving him questioning who she really was. The woman who bought him up was something of an enigma, a glamorous presence who continually cooked and cleaned, but who on reflection, he decides, probably felt trapped by it all. Here he shares some more memories of a life lived behind the lens…

Vantage | 17

interview

My father, an art director at Penguin Books, bought a Nikon F camera to photograph the Beatles. When I was about 10 years old he taught me how to use it. I remember he told me to always focus on the eyelashes and I still do.

I actually wanted to be a film director. Back when I was working as a (really bad) video director my girlfriend decided that she wanted to give modelling a go, so I took some pictures of her with my father’s Nikon F. She got an agent and during a ‘gosee’, as they say in the industry, at Vogue they asked her who took the pictures to which she replied “my boyfriend”. “He’s good!” they said,” Tell him to come and see us.” So I did and it went from there.

I didn’t necessarily make a decision to choose fashion as my subject, it was simply that it was Vogue who gave me my break.

“There haven’t been too many disasters, unless you count the time that I was drunk without any trousers on”

When I first started out my sister was one of my early subjects. She was also a model and pregnant at the time with my future nephew. The Guardian asked me to shoot her for a story entitled ‘pregnant brides’.

There are really too many memorable shoots to list.

I always have a clear vision of what I want before starting out on set. There haven’t been too many disasters, unless you count the time that I was drunk without any trousers on, but that was just at the beginning of my career and actually the pictures surprisingly weren’t that bad.

There are some that accuse the fashion world of being guilty of glamorising reality, but I am not. My images oppose the idea that glamour and riches will make you happy. My female subjects evoke a feeling of unease, but life is about unease and my work is about life, not fantasy.

The industry is what it is, but I love that it supports my vision. The relationship between artist and patron is often antagonistic. Just imagine what the Pope expected from Michelangelo when he commissioned him to paint the Sistine Chapel. It was almost certainly not the orgy of flesh and sensuality that he got.

I think social media will have zero effect on the future of photography. Instagram on the whole is not about photography but about telling the world that you are having a ‘great’ time with multiple dubious hashtags. Swiping images on a phone is the exact opposite of looking at photographs in a book or at an exhibition.

Art collectors and the public are taking photography much more seriously as an art form than they used to. Practically every important artist from Picasso to Bacon, Warhol to Richter has exploited the photographic image. The very idea that the camera is not capable of making art whereas a paint brush is just doesn’t stand up.

Richard Avedon, Irving Penn and Helmut Newton have all influenced me. At home I have a display of black and white 10”x 8” prints of past movie stars that I took from a cinema bookshop when it was closing down. It reminds me that fame passes, and that if my photography career had never taken off I would have made the movie I set out to. Art on a Plate and in a Frame takes place on 17 October, at 8pm with tickets at £95 per person M, 2-3 Threadneedle Walk, EC2, mrestaurants.co.uk From top: Home Works #1, 2008, chromogenic print; First Impression #2, 2007, chromogenic print, all photos courtesy of Miles Aldridge

18 | Vantage

Vantage Magazine (Staples Corner, Hayes, Thurrock).indd 1

18/08/2015 10:54 am

Off the Tickling the ivories from your iPad is not as farfetched as it sounds, as Lauren Romano discovers at Steinway & Sons where craftsmanship and technological innovation have been harmonised in the makerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest offering, the Steinway Spirio ď&#x192;ľ

FEATURE

hen Tom Hanks hopscotched over the keys of FAO Schwarz’s giant floor piano in the 80s hit Big, the keyboard-cum-dance mat got more than its 15 minutes of fame, as waves of tourists flocked to the Fifth Avenue toy shop. Back then my childhood self would have given anything to join them on their musical pilgrimage and stamp out the notes of Chopsticks to an adoring crowd, but the nearest I got to my musical moment was thudding out a syncopated rendition of Greensleeves on dusty Yamaha decks to my classmates. My piano skills might not have improved since then, but the technology behind the instrument has. Making a noise with its latest model, Steinway & Sons has long been in the musical vanguard, this year reaching what is arguably the final frontier in the instrument’s innovation: the Steinway Spirio – a piano that can play itself and replicate pitch-perfect performances of virtuosos the world over. Amid its fleet of the grandest grand pianos money can buy, the company has referred to the recent release as its most significant product innovation in 70 years. The drumroll isn’t for nothing; an engineering masterpiece, the Spirio system is available exclusively on a select number of Steinway grand piano models and enables live performances that are, in a further stroke of ingenuity, controlled at the touch of an iPad. It’s a feat that might have made founder Henry Engelhard Steinway turn in his grave if it wasn’t for the company’s staunch refusal to sideline traditional handcrafting techniques. There are no robots or machines operating ten to the dozen on this production line. In fact, the factory set up at the Steinway & Sons Hamburg and New York workshops wouldn’t be all that alien to the original craftsmen who joined the team when the business began in New York in 1853. The company has preserved the specialist skills honed by Steinway ever since he pieced together his first piano in his kitchen in Germany. “Steinway wanted to build the best piano possible and this remains the motto of every employee today. Making a Steinway piano is a perfect art that can only be achieved by hand,” explains Steinway & Sons’ communications manager Sabine Höpermann. “Each piano – a work of art in its own right – is the

The company has preserved its specialist skills, handing them down through the generations

Opposite: The Steinway Spirio system is available in three existing grand piano models. This page: Behind the scenes at the factory, all images courtesy of Steinway & Sons

Vantage | 21

result of a three-year journey that begins with the selection and seasoning of the woods and concludes with a handcrafting process of up to a year.” At the factory in New York, slow and steady wins the race. The whole process took four years to perfect, working in close partnership with Wayne Stahnke, a pioneer of the modern player piano system. The 20-point production schedule allocates two years for drying the wood, 100 days rest for the rim and a lengthy pre-adjustment period that involves the installation and calibration of clavier and mechanics, with 7,000 components painstakingly fitted together. The first tuning is followed by three more and then the techy part follows. A high-resolution software system along with Solenoids (current-carrying coils of wire)

Above: Chief voicer Wiebke Wunstorf putting the Spirio through its paces

that actuate each note on the piano, are seamlessly integrated during the manufacturing process. Tucked away from view the components do not affect the touch or sound of the instrument. It’s a laborious process and all in all, one Steinway Spirio passes through the hands of 50 craftsmen. The fact that piano concertos are no longer reserved for concert halls, but Tuesday evenings after dinner in the living room is cause for celebration for CEO Michael Sweeney. At the official UK presentation of the Steinway Spirio at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery in May he enthused: “For the first time a customer can enjoy the beautiful playing of Olga Kern, Lang Lang, Stephen Hough and so many other Steinway artists from around the world, including jazz and rock masters in their homes.” The makers insist that the ability to summon these artists to the keys via the app (Steinway & Sons provides a complimentary iPad to wirelessly connect with each Steinway Spirio), does not detract from the experience of listening to a performance live. “Steinway & Sons is renowned for connecting the listener and the artist as only the world’s best piano can, and the Steinway Spirio is another example of that,” Höpermann explains. “Therefore we can afford to introduce a player piano system as the technology meets with Steinway’s highest standards; producing uncompromised sound quality and an exact facsimile of a live performance.”

FEATURE

“Steinway wanted to build the best piano possible and this remains the motto of every employee today”

This facsimile is a crescendo-and-all interpretation of an original score, where “delicate pedalling, subtle phrasing, soft trills and thundering fortissimos” are reproduced faultlessly. A specially recorded catalogue of music has also been released, featuring performances from the pool of more than 1,700 Steinway artists, playing everything from classical to jazz to contemporary, all recorded live on Steinway & Sons’ master recording pianos. As new tracks become available they will be automatically added to the app listings, to create a library of world-class performances. Meanwhile the musical maestros at the company's HQ will be curating and cataloguing tunes by genre to create playlists to suit any occasion. It’s not just the level of technological ingenuity that gives an indication of the Steinway Spirio’s special qualities, the price tag might hint at them too. That is to be expected of course; the highest levels of craftsmanship have long been the reserve of the luxury market. Earlier this year the chairman of Crafted, Guy Salter, masterminded the first ever London Craft Week to celebrate the creative forces reviving traditional crafts relevant for a modern day audience. “It has become de rigueur for brands to extol their craft virtues; telling that story with beautifully shot print ads depicting

craftsmen at work,” he comments in his welcome note on craftedshowcase.co.uk, conceding with regret that only a handful of luxury companies have preserved their crafting skills. Certainly, in the age of the mighty Silicon Valley when no industry, the music one included, can avoid the touch of technology, the debate about the future of high-tech interference continues. In the music industry, technology has undoubtedly been instrumental in pushing things forward. It has given emerging artists a voice to establish themselves and spread their music to a wider audience; it has arguably democratised classical music in particular, and advanced other genres, such as electronic music, making the DJs behind the decks global megastars in the process. But when it comes to the instruments themselves, the bread and butter of a traditional orchestra, isn’t it time to celebrate those brave enough to revere and honour craftsmanship as much as reinvention? “Since the founding of Steinway & Sons more than 160 years ago, innovation and craftsmanship have served as the core tenets of the company,” Sweeney says in agreement. “In today’s marketplace brands like ours must continue to innovate in order to remain relevant to the world around us, but that doesn’t mean that quality and craftsmanship can suffer,” he concludes. “The Steinway artists who have recorded on the instrument agree that the Spirio captures the true essence, nuance and soulfulness of a live performance, allowing us to bring artists and their audiences closer than ever before.” POA, 44 Marylebone Lane, W1U steinwayspirio.com

Both pages: the production process at the factory, images courtesy of Steinway & Sons

Vantage | 23

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COLLECTION

Stroke of genius You might be more than a little surprised to learn that timepieces and eroticism have often gone hand in hand in watchmaking history. Designers in the past would sometimes play with the theme of libertinism by mechanically recreating suggestive scenes. Richard Mille’s new RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon recalls these controversial timepieces, not just through its evocative name, but through a series of passionate declarations written proudly across the models’ faces. In order for these to be seen clearly at all times, a mechanism has been developed that makes the hands disappear at 8 o’clock, when the push-piece is activated. Designed in collaboration with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, the movement features 505 components and 41 jewels, and the 69-hour power reserve is displayed in a new aperture at 4 o’clock. 30-piece limited edition collection, £591,500 each, available in Richard Mille boutiques richardmille.com

Vantage | 25

collection

Jewellery news By Olivia Sharpe

Trade secret

Secrets by Harry Winston, the jeweller’s latest high jewellery collection, pays tribute to its enigmatic founder who, due to an unusual clause in his insurance policy, was forbidden to show his face to the public so was often pictured as a silhouette. Thus each piece has its own secret element, such as the Winston Cluster bracelet, which features an emerald discreetly hidden behind the house’s iconic motif. Many of the 29 pieces have also been cleverly designed to be worn in more ways than one. The Secret Wonder revolving medallion necklace, for instance, has been set with round and pear-shaped diamonds on one side but when spun round, it reveals sapphires, aquamarines and diamonds. Secrets by Harry Winston, POA Harry Winston, 171 New Bond Street, W1S, harrywinston.com

Fine feather Winged, bejewelled creatures set the scene in Lalique’s A/W15 fine jewellery collection, which has been influenced by the Art Nouveau period and its preoccupation with natural motifs. The menagerie-inspired line includes the Perroquet collection. Inspired by founder René Lalique’s love of parrots, it captures the exotic bird in a number of brightly-coloured forms, including a pendant made of yellow gold, blue, orange and pink sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines and emeralds, with matching earrings and a ring. lalique.com

A new leaf

Cutting

edge

“I wanted to create a jewel quite unlike what has been done before… something light and animated that reflects the true spirit of butterflies. We developed a mechanism that makes the butterfly wings flutter while being worn – creating something truly playful and surprising.” – Glenn Spiro

Mayfair jeweller Glenn Spiro has spread his wings with his latest collection of unique butterfly pieces, created exclusively for his boutique in Harrods

Butterfly natural Burma ruby ring mounted in titanium with 431 brilliant-cut Burma rubies and 253 brilliant-cut white diamonds; Butterfly ring made in titanium and white gold and set with 332 sapphires and 334 diamonds; POA, exclusive to Harrods, harrods.com

This month, jewellery designer Aurélie Bidermann has created a capsule collection for luxury fashion e-tailer Matches Fashion. Encompassing just seven pieces, the familiar designs take their cues from the jeweller’s Gingko collection, but have been updated in rose gold and navy blue enamel. Aurélie Bidermann explains: “I wanted to play with the DNA of the brand. Nature has always been a great source of inspiration for me, especially the ginkgo leafs… The navy blue enamel was the perfect combination and always suggests travels and serenity to me.” Available from 1 October, prices from £165, matchesfashion.com

Vantage | 27

COLLECTION

4 7 3

5 6

18 17

Into the Woods 16

From skulls to deadly spiders, take your pick of the most nightmarish fine jewels this Halloween

14 13 15

11 1 Magnipheasant necklace, £2,750, Stephen Webster, matchesfashion.com 2 Thorn earrings, £3,850, Stephen Webster, as before 3 Le Bouquet ring, £4,621, Gaelle Khouri, gaellekhouri.com 4 Pigne gold-tone quartz earrings, £150, Rosantica, net-a-porter.com 5 Bianca gold-plated onyx necklace, £485, Aurélie Bidermann, net-a-porter.com 6 Twig gold-plated necklace, £88, Diane von Furstenberg, matchesfashion.com 7 Dagger Rosary silver necklace, £155, Pamela Love, net-a-porter.com 8 Lock-up pendant, £1,862, Gaelle Khouri, as before 9 Diamond, agate and rose gold ring, £4,250, Monique Péan, matchesfashion.com 10 Lucia gold-tone, onyx and volcanic lava necklace, £505, Rosantica, as before 11 Owl ring, £2,759, Gaelle Khouri, as before 12 Diamond, agate, spectrolite and gold earrings, £7,438, Monique Péan, matchesfashion.com 13 Spider’s Web ring, POA, Buccellati, buccellati.com 14 White diamond bar ring, £918.09, Diane Kordas, available at Dover Street Market, W1S 15 Fly by Night ring, £2,550, Stephen Webster, as before 16 Diamond feather earrings, £5,275, Rosa de la Cruz, farfetch.com 17 Eclipse diamond and moonstone ring, £7,250, Noor Fares, matchesfashion.com 18 Vanitas ring, £3,400, Solange Azagury-Partridge, solange.co.uk

28 | Vantage

COLLECTION

Watch news By Richard Brown

One of a kind The watches that will be up for sale at the 2015 Only Watch charity auction have been announced. Among 44 pieces from the likes of Boucheron, Breguet, Richard Mille and Patek Philippe, there is the beautiful, enamelled Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée from Jaquet Droz, and the striking Dewitt Academia Out of Time (left). Now in its sixth edition, the biennial Only Watch event raises money to support scientific research on neuromuscular diseases. Discover the watches at Phillips London, 30 Berkeley Square, between 24 and 27 October. If you like what you see, be in Geneva for the auction on 7 November. onlywatch.com

One to watch

The butterfly effect

“The design of the Clé de Cartier is a testament to accuracy, balance and proportion; with soft curves, clean lines and a rounded profile. Clé houses the calibre 1847 MC, the new Cartier manufacture movement”

Harry Winston reopened its Harrods salon last month, providing us with the perfect excuse to revisit the brand's Premier Collection, which it updated at Baselworld this year. The extraordinary colours on the dials of Precious Butterfly watches are created from the fragile, yet extremely iridescent, powder found on the wings of butterflies, which Harry Winston harvested through a technique that took three years to develop. The pigments create a kaleidoscope of colours rarely seen on watches, so fascinating that you may barely notice the 57 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel.

Right: Clé de Cartier, £25,400 in rose gold, Cartier Fraser Hart, Brent Cross, 020 8732 8459 BrentCross@fraserhart.co.uk @FHBrentCross

Premier Precious Butterfly collection, POA, Harry Winston harrywinston.com

Allun Michaels, store manager at Fraser Hart in Brent Cross, selects his watch of the month:

Retro-grade The world's most celebrated calibre lends both its name and its high-frequency performance to Zenith's supremely sophisticated El Primero Chronograph Classic. It debuted earlier this year but has only recently arrived in UK stores. Anyone with a penchant for classic watch design will appreciate the piece's clean lines and understated elegance. It features a case that's completely new for Zenith, is 42mm in diameter and less than 12mm thick – the perfect companion to any black tie occasion. El Primero Chronograph Classic, £6,100 (stainless steel), £14,700 (rose gold), Zenith zenith-watches.com

30 | Vantage

SShifter hape Following the release of the newest Clé de Cartier, first previewed at SIHH this year, Louise Rose takes a closer look at the maison’s most ergonomic model to date 

golden key can open any door, as the saying goes and, while Parisian joaillerie and horology house Cartier (which dates back to 1847) has a clientele that includes some of the world’s most affluent and discerning individuals, its heritage has been underpinned, from the start, by an unrivalled attention to design. Indeed, when it comes to its iconic watches, the company has always been keen, and able, to straddle two camps. Its timepieces appeal both to those classicists who appreciate a concise selection of watches that have stood the test of time and to those with an eye for innovation, who may lean towards the wackier models (we’re looking at you, Cartier Crash – although true enthusiasts may describe this venture as more an aesthetic exercise in savoir-faire than a full product departure). The creation of a Cartier timepiece is always a quasi-architectural exercise; every model is characterised by strong lines and a distinctive form. Now joining the rectangular Tank, the square Santos and the perfectly round Ballon Bleu is the curved, ergonomic Clé (meaning key). Available in three diameters – 40, 35 and 31mm – there are 22 models within the new line but they all sit flush against the wrist and boast the same fluid silhouette. As Laurent Feniou, managing director of Cartier UK, explains, the Clé is “both timeless and versatile. Intrinsic to

David Gandy © Cartier

collection

ClĂŠ de Cartier watch, 40mm in 18-karat white gold, Eric Maillet ÂŠ Cartier

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Ballon Bleu de Cartier 42mm, Laziz Hamani ÂŠ Cartier

collection

Crash skeleton watch, Laziz Hamani © Cartier

Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire watch, Laziz Hamani © Cartier

Cartier’s history as a creative watchmaker is our spirit of innovation. A pioneering ethos that is reflected in this new shape.” The tactile, smooth case design is inspired by the simple circle, but what instantly stands out is the winding crown, or key, one of the most distinctive features of the Clé de Cartier, where the sparkling sapphire is being ‘crown guarded’ by the long and sleek case band. Although the use of this precious blue stone is also a feature of many of Cartier’s classic watches, this is the only point of similarity with the Clé. Th redesigned approach to setting the time and date, in the form of this pivoting, meticulouslydesigned key, is a standout feature, so much so that it has inspired its product name. Operating the key is easy: simply pull the crown and turn it to set the time and date, and you’ll hear a very satisfying ‘click’ when it is returned to its original position. This is something Cartier passionately describes as “a reassuring sound that enhances the sensorial experience… a sound with echoes of congeniality, quality and the complex inner workings of the finest timepieces”. While for some it may take getting used to, turning something rectangular as opposed to round, it is aesthetically, practically and acoustically pleasing. In its resting state, the pivoting key sits astride the case and its unique construction negates the possibility of accidentally moving the hands once set. When looking at all 22 models within the new watch line, the dial remains a constant feature (although, in true Cartier style, the women’s models mostly have diamond accents). Hands are blue steel

Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton watch, Laziz Hamani © Cartier

to complement the signature jewel in the crown, while dials are all fairly classic in their design, boasting an opalescent guilloché centre, surrounded by a pearl-white outer rim. Roman numerals are painted in a rich, traditional shade of blue, again nodding to the signature sapphire, while the six o’clock marker is replaced by a subtle aperture for the date. The guilloché centre extends here, Clé de Cartier watch, bordering the date in a wave 31mm in 18-karat pink gold with diamonds, motif. As well as the dial, case Eric Maillet © Cartier and key, the Clé de Cartier also boasts a new in-house, self-winding movement developed by Cartier, which has a 42hour power reserve and effectively takes the place of the ébauche ETA movements, on which the maison formerly relied. Both a technological and design triumph for one of the most established watchmaking houses in the world, we’re pretty sure that we are just getting a taste for the shape of things to come, if you’ll pardon the pun.

The winding crown, or key, is aesthetically, practically and acoustically pleasing

cartier.co.uk

Clé de Cartier watch, 40mm in 18-karat pink gold, Eric Maillet © Cartier

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Inspired by the

Silver Screen This month, IWC is headline sponsor of the British Film Institute’s fundraising gala, Luminous, a celebration of British film talent which raises vital funds for the BFI National Archive. In celebration of this, the brand has unveiled a limited-edition timepiece with The Watch Gallery 

Photography © Stuart Wilson

COLLECTION

THE CAUSE The BFI National Archive is the UK’s national collection of film and TV and one of the greatest heritage collections in the world. Works in the BFI National Archive include those by all-time great British directors Alfred Hitchcock, David Lean and Emeric Pressburger, by modern masters including Mike Leigh, Stephen Frears, Lynne Ramsay and Steve McQueen, and the earliest examples of silent film and documentary-making in Britain. Keeping the archive alive, which the BFI has done for more than 80 years, relies on a timeconsuming, expensive and expert-led process of film preservation and digitisation. Dedicated to the cause is Luminous; its fundraising strategy hopes to ensure the UK’s rich heritage of film and television is protected and made available for the enjoyment of audiences everywhere.

THE EVENT On Tuesday 6 October, some of Britain’s top film stars and industry elite will be raising vital funds at the Luminous gala in partnership with IWC Schaffhausen. Taking place in the gothic splendour of the City’s Guildhall, the evening will be hosted by Jonathan Ross, with the live auction led by renowned auctioneer Lord Dalmeny. This year, the auction will be opened up online, in advance of the night, offering bidders the opportunity to secure a once-in-a-lifetime film experience or extraordinary movie artefact, donated by the BFI’s many supporters and filmmakers. To place a bid for yourself, please visit luminousauction.com from 21 September.

THE WATCHES Last month, IWC unveiled the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’. It is limited to 59 pieces in stainless steel and features an engraved nod to the festival on its case back. The timepiece will be available at The Watch Gallery, IWC’s sole retail partner for the launch. The Swiss watchmaker is also donating a unique ‘1/1’ timepiece for auction at the Luminous gala: the platinum Portugieser Annual Calendar Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’. IWC Schaffhausen is the Official Time Partner for the 59th BFI London Film Festival in partnership with American Express, which runs 7-18 October

 Where to buy  The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ‘BFI London Film Festival 2015’ is available at The Watch Gallery stores (Chelsea, Selfridges, Westfield London) thewatchgallery.com, for £8,250

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spotlight

Clowning around Roll up, roll up! Zippos Circus is in town, bringing the best of its famous act to Hampstead Heath. Witness the world-renowned musical clowns, the Rastellis, try to stay in tune despite all the tomfoolery, before the ring is cleared to make way for motorcycle act, the Globe of Terror, and their daredevil performance. The rest of October will see Hampstead Heath become a hotspot for ghostly activities, with the annual kids Hallowe’en Party, complete with fancy dress and spooky drawing competitions, and the Haunted Heath Walk for adults. Join if you dare… Zippos Circus, until 4 October, zipposcircus.co.uk Hallowe’en Party, 30 October, 2.30pm-4pm 020 7482 2116; Haunted Heath for Adults 31 October, £10, 7pm-8.30pm, 020 7332 3773 Photo by Piet-Hein Out, circusphotographer.com

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EDITOR'S PICK

Havana heights With exclusive photographs by Werner Pawlok, Luigi Visconti and Larry Yust, Viva Cuba! at LUMAS Gallery delves into the unique architecture, stunning colours and vibrant atmosphere of this fascinating Caribbean island. Pawlok’s photography in particular highlights the decline of decadence in the country after years of upheaval, and reveals how rapidly it has changed since his last exhibition Cuba – expired.

Local news

29 September – 31 October 57 South Molton Street, W1K, lumas.com

By Chloë Riddle Hellenistic Gold Armlet Courtesy of Kallos Gallery & Steve Wakeham

Curtain call If you weren’t quick enough off the mark to snap up tickets for Benedict Cumberbatch’s Hamlet, Dame Judi Dench and Kenneth Branagh will be appearing in The Winter's Tale. Co-directed by Rob Ashford and Branagh, this tragi-comedy is one of a series starting this October at the Garrick Theatre that will include performances from Lily James, Rob Brydon and Richard Madden.

Pearls of wisdom

17 October – 16 January, Charing Cross Road, WC2 branaghtheatre.com

Rifling through a long-forgotten jewellery box can unearth some decidedly dusty gems, but when said box is more than 2,400 years old, you might expect the pieces to be a little worse for wear. Not so at Ancient Greek antiques specialist Kallos Gallery, where a pristine collection of rare gold jewellery dating back to the third and fourth centuries BC will be unveiled this month. Entitled Amaranthine, magpies can examine the exquisite collection of pieces up close by making a private appointment. 5 October –14 December, 14-16 Davies Street, W1K kallosgallery.com

Photos by Johan Persson, courtesy of Kenneth Branagh Theatre Company

spotlight

 Face value  Murray Macaulay, director of Multiplied art fair and a senior prints specialist Murray Macaulay at Christie’s, is celebrating the sixth year of the fair dedicated to contemporary art by encouraging people to buy for love not just investment

100 years of Kafka To celebrate the centenary publication of Kafka’s seminal The Metamorphosis, JW3 in Hampstead is preparing to host the Franz Kafka Festival. From exhibitions and art displays to performances and interactive workshops, the programme is set to educate and enlighten, offering a glimpse into the darkly mysterious mind of this 20thcentury Dante. There are even activities for the kids, including an afternoon creating creepy-crawly crafts and a Kafka-inspired puppetry workshop. Clockwise from left: House of Maria © Werner Pawlok; Solar Habana y Amargura I © Werner Pawlok; House of Chino I © Werner Pawlok, all courtesy of lumas.com

“Looking at art requires an open mind and, in my experience, the best collectors are characterised by their curiosity about the world and other people. At Multiplied, you can pick up outstanding pieces by artists with international reputations, such as Sir Peter Blake and Grayson Perry. But you can also see and acquire works by artists who are not as widely known, from the UK’s most dynamic graduate institutions, the Royal College of Art, the Royal Academy of Arts and the University of the Arts London, as well as from exciting start-up spaces.

22-25 October, 341-351 Finchley Road NW3, jw3.org.uk

“Anyone who keeps the ability to see beauty never grows old”– Franz Kafka Eastern promise Edel Assanti Gallery launches an autumn exhibition programme with a political agenda this month. Gordon Cheung explores the relationship between civilisation and conquest in China through bright mixed media paintings in The Abyss Stares Back and acclaimed Japanese artist Yoshinori Niwa makes his UK debut. Focusing on his documentary style film, Looking for Vladimir Lenin at Moscow Apartments, Niwa’s show also includes portraits, photographs and propaganda from the Soviet Period. 9 October – 21 November 74a Newman Street, W1T edelassanti.com

Petros Chrisostomou Megalomaniac, 2008 courtesy of LN Edition

“There is a chance you might spot the next Damien Hirst, but then again, you might not,” he says. “Having an eye only on the potential investment return of a work of art is one reason for buying it, but this is very limiting. At Multiplied you will almost certainly find something you love, and in doing so, you’ll be contributing to the cultural economy and helping to sustain the next generation of artists.” multipliedartfair.com

Right: Gordon Cheung, Blink of an Eye, 2015 courtesy of Edel Assanti

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Frame

Frieze

The hottest contemporary art festival in town is back. Thirteen years since it started, Frieze London continues to showcase work by the world’s most exciting artists; Rebecca Wallersteiner talks to some of the best 

he art cognoscenti will descend on Regent’s Park this month when the annual arty jamboree that is Frieze London rolls in, bringing with it 180 of the most globally renowned galleries and their artists. Since its inception in 2003 Frieze has evolved to become one of the landmarks on the international art calendar. It can also make or break the careers of artists overnight. Last October, despite economic instability in Europe, a number of galleries sold out of artwork immediately. As always, this year’s guest list will be as eclectic as the art on display. For every big gallery opening, where sipping champagne and spotting billionaire collectors will be on the agenda, they’ll be a more obscure, under-the-radar antidote where you can hobnob with the hippest up-and-coming artists. One of this season’s highlights can be found over at Marlborough Fine Art where a special stand will be dedicated to north London’s greatest living artist, Frank Auerbach, who turned 84 this year. This promises to be a stellar year for the reclusive figurative painter, with a major retrospective of his work opening at Tate Modern on 9 October. From the fair veterans to the fresh on the scene, this year’s ones to watch are a mixed bunch. Crafting his work from steel, aluminium, silicon and fabric, Ruairiadh O’Connell is a Scottish experimental artist. This autumn he will present a solo installation of new two and three-dimensional work in the Focus section of Frieze, with San Francisco’s Jessica Silverman Gallery. “I will be showing a group of Japanese

influenced works which relate to my interest in effect and aesthetics; how an artwork takes hold in the psyche and what part underlying design materials play in this,” O’Connell reveals. His striking new sculptures take design cues from 17th-century Japanese hikeshi firemen and skilfully blend the ancient and modern. “My new work is inspired by uniforms and warning flags worn and carried by the hikeshi in Edo-era Japan. I have translated motifs including tigers and nine-tailed foxes which lined firemen’s jackets into moulded resin, embossed by hand-carved woodblocks.” His cuttingedge work explores the link between psychology, physics and history often leading him to unpredictable and astonishing results, but does Frieze provide a good platform for his art? “It is exciting to present my work to the large and diverse international audience that Frieze attracts. It’s definitely very different to exhibiting at a gallery, or museum and I hope that visitors will find it challenging,” he enthuses. Another successful artist tipped for stardom is London-based Jesse Wine. Represented by Limoncello,

SPOTLIGHT Anti-clockwise from left: Jesse Wine's work at Limoncello Gallery; Frieze London 2014; Gagosian Gallery; Galerie Max Hetzler; The Approach; Thomas Dane; Stuart Shave/ Modern Art, all highlights from Frieze London 2014, photography by Linda Nylind, courtesy of Linda Nylind/Frieze; Head of E.O.W, 1957 © Frank Auchbach, courtesy of Marlborough Fine Art

the creative is best known for his extraordinary glazed ceramic and steel installations. “This year I will be presenting several new works in the main part of the fair, including my most recent work – a large-scale painting created by layering up clay – as well as other fresh work in Frieze’s Sculpture Park,” he says. Internationally renowned, the artist has been exhibited by major galleries around the world who love the surprise element of his bold, quirky work, which, he believes suits the Frieze setup down to a tee and has seen him return to the fair several times. “Frieze is raw and stimulating and draws experimental artists and gallerists with plenty of creativity, ambition and fizz. As the fair attracts an international crowd it ensures that your work will be seen by a lot of people,” he explains. For those who are left wanting a top-up of Wine post-Frieze, fans can look forward to seeing more of his sculptures next year at the Tate St Ives in Cornwall. It’s not all canvases and clay however. Film lovers should make a bee-line for Frieze Film which brings together specially commissioned performancebased flicks and screens them at a fun pop-up cinema. One of this October’s highlights is a shocking series of short videos capturing tumultuous emotions made by

American artist Xavier Cha. “I aim to capture actors as they battle conflicting feelings, held in tense states of physical and psychological discord. When people are outwardly expressing livid rage, a more subtle emotion often emerges too,” he says. Cha’s film Abduct examines how people deal with difficult feelings which tend to “hijack” their facial expressions. “My new films continue my exploration of the body, individual and self and how they are contained, expressed and mediated,” he explains. Last year Cha was awarded the Guggenheim Fellowship for Creative Arts for his thought-provoking work, so visitors should expect more riveting reels this year too. And if all that art feels a bit serious and leaves you in need of a good song and dance, don’t miss Charles Atlas. Something of an industry legend in New York, Atlas pioneered the fusion of music, dance and film and has plenty of tricks up his sleeve for Frieze. “This summer I have collaborated with choreographers Silas Riener and Rashaun Mitchell on a short video that features dancers Cori Kresge and Hiroki Ichinose, shot at the Experimental Media and Performing Arts Centre, in New York,” he tells me. “Other renowned performers such as Michael Clark, Yvonne Rainer and Mika Tajima will also make an appearance.” For a decade Atlas was a videographerin-residence with the Merce Cunningham Dance Company and he continues to collaborate with numerous performers. At the frontline of artistic innovation since the 70s, Atlas has created numerous works for stage, screen and television that synthesise technology and performance. “Last year I exhibited at the Gwangju Biennial and The Contemporary in Austin and I’m currently the artist-in-residence at the Experimental Media and Performing Arts Centre in New York,” he adds and something tells me he’s unlikely to stop experimenting anytime soon. Although Frieze is synonymous with cuttingedge art, for me October’s brightest star is the aforementioned Berlin-born, north-London based Frank Auerbach. Painting 365 days a year, he daily scrapes back the surface of his canvas until he feels satisfied with the painting. At Marlborough Fine Art’s stand you can find several examples of Auerbach’s characteristic layering of thick impasto paint on display – many depicting his beloved Camden. “This part of London is my world,” he muses. “I’ve been wandering around these streets for so long that I’ve become attached to them and as fond of them as people are of their pets.” Frieze London, 14-17 October, friezelondon.com

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Art

Alphabet

With a smattering of art fairs, festivals and exhibitions cropping up across the capital, Chloë Riddle gives the low-down on the must-see events of the season 

Maria Rivans, Me, Jane, courtesy of Liberty Gallery

Affordable Art Fair Everyone loves a bargain, so we’re excited for the return of the Affordable Art Fair, which is relocating from Hampstead to Battersea for the autumn. More than 100 UK and international galleries will be offering artworks with prices ranging from £100 to £500, so there’s something to suit all budgets. 22-25 October, from £10, Battersea Evolution Battersea Park, SW11, affordableartfair.com

Chanel Some like it haute, especially the Saatchi Gallery, which will be bringing a certain je ne sais quoi to its Chelsea space this month with a retrospective on Chanel and the designers steering the sartorial reins. With exhibits drawn from the extensive archive, the exhibition chronicles the creative journey of the fashion house – from Coco Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld – with a focus on couture, the Bijoux de Diamants high jewellery collection and Chanel No 5. Mademoiselle Privé, 13 October – 1 November, Saatchi Gallery King’s Road, SW3 saatchigallery.com

All images: © Billy Name / Reel Art Press Below: Billy Name: The Silver Age, RRP £60, published by Reel Art Press, reelartpress.com

Billy Name As the resident archivist and photographer for Andy Warhol’s Factory, Billy Name’s photographic back catalogue gives a fly-on-thewall insight into the pioneering pop artist’s colourful life. The hotly anticipated exhibition reveals behind-the-scenes shots of the Silver Era – a four year stretch when Warhol’s foilcovered loft was a paparazzi paradise frequented by Lou Reed, Edie Sedgwick and The Velvet Underground. Billy Name: The Silver Age 30 September – 23 October, Serena Morton II, 343 Ladbroke Grove W10, serenamorton.com

spotlight

Little Green Paint Company

Decorex Syon Park is transformed once again into an interiors treasure trove this autumn with the return of internationallyrenowned fair Decorex. Part of the London Design Festival, the four-day event collates the best in contemporary design, along with a programme of seminars and talks discussing new trends for A/W15 and topics such as the future of craft and the preservation of heritage.

Eames Charles and Ray Eames were the husband and wife design dream team of the 1970s. Together their innovative creations shaped the landscape of modern architecture and furniture design and their studio – The Eames Office – was a creative hub that pioneered classic interiors staples over four decades. The extensive collection on show at the Barbican Gallery from this month celebrates the studio’s far-reaching output, from films and photographs to sculptures and paintings. The World of Charles and Ray Eames 21 October – 14 February, £14.50, Barbican Art Gallery, Silk Street EC2Y, barbican.org.uk Charles and Ray Eames selecting slides © Eames Office LLC

20-23 September, from £30 Syon Park, TW8, decorex.com

Frank Auerbach Auerbach’s primary subject is just on our doorstep: Camden Town. “This part of London is my world,” the painter once said of the area where he has lived and worked for half a century. “What I wanted to do was to record the life that seemed to me to be passionate and exciting and disappearing all the time.” Opening this month, the artist’s London-centric work will be the subject of the Tate’s autumn retrospective.

Goya

The Origin of the Great Bear, 1967-8, Tate © Frank Auerbach

9 October – 13 March, £16 Tate Britain, Millbank SW1P, tate.org.uk

Hyundai Commission Visitors to the first in a new series of installations at the Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall will be encouraged to have their ‘think outside the box’ hats to the ready for Mexican sculptor Abraham Cruzvillegas’s showstopper. Best known for his Autoconstrucción project – a mismatch of everyday objects – the artist explores the use of discarded materials to create conceptual art. Watch this space. Hyundai Commission 2015: Abraham Cruzvillegas: Empty Lot, 13 October – 3 April Tate Modern, Bankside SE1, tate.org.uk

From Rococo style cartoons to the romanticised portrayals of the Peninsular War, 18thcentury Spanish painter Francisco de Goya’s career was nothing short of prolific. But it will be his portraits that are the star of The National Gallery’s latest exhibition, which will showcase his profound ability to capture the psychological state of his subjects. Goya: The Portraits, 7 October – 10 January, £16, The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, WC2N nationalgallery.org.uk Above: Francisco de Goya, The Duchess of Alba, 1797, Oil on canvas. On loan from The Hispanic Society of America, New York, © Courtesy of The Hispanic Society of America, New York

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Jean-Etienne Liotard Marvel at the richly-detailed creations of 18thcentury portraitist Liotard at the Royal Academy of Arts from this month. Renowned for his exceptional attention to detail, the series of works originate from voyages to Vienna, Geneva, Constantinople and London. 24 October – 31 January, £10, Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1J, royalacademy.org.uk

Kate Stanworth, Somaliland Calling, Oxford House

International Photography Festival Photomonth East London International Photography Festival (rolls off the tongue) is an amalgamation of photo projects at the Old Truman Brewery and nearby Rich Mix, with artist talks, seminars and workshops running alongside a series of exhibitions that will get your creative juices flowing and hopefully encourage you to give Instagram a wide berth and pick up a proper camera. 1 October – 30 November, The Old Truman Brewery 91 Brick Lane, E1, photomonth.org Above: Jean-Etienne Liotard, Laura Tarsi, c.1741, lent by the Syndics of the Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge, inv. PD9-2006. Photo © Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge

Kinetica Taking a break from its annual art fair this year, Kinetica Museum is setting up shop at the Hospital Club where it will hold a twomonth exhibition celebrating 100 years since Einstein’s discovery of the Theory of Relativity, as well as exploring metaphysical concepts and forces in nature. Gravity: Universal & Cosmic Art 14 October – 14 December, The Hospital Club, 25 Endell Street WC2H, kinetica-museum.org

Lapada Collectors should be quick off the mark at renowned art and antiques fair LAPADA, where 100 specialist galleries will be exhibiting a wide range of sought after pieces to tempt the wallets of first-time and experienced buyers alike. 22-27 September, £20 Berkeley Square, W1J lapadalondon.com

Ivan Black, Ellipse Courtesy of Kinetica Museum

Above, L-R: Frascarolo 18k leopard cufflinks from Moira Jewels; Chelsea Reach under Snow by Michael D’Aguilar, from Paul Mayhew Fine Art; A silver box shaped like an owl, 17th century, Portugal, from J. Baptista

spotlight

NPSG gallery four® Kioyar Ltd Photo by Yuki Shima

Migration Migration is the theme given to the participants of this year’s Designers in Residence Programme at the Design Museum. Four artists have responded to the brief and will showcase their creations that explore themes of transition, culture shift and movement.

Newport Street Gallery

9 September – 31 March, £13, Design Museum 28 Shad Thames, SE1, designmuseum.org Photography by Jenny Lewis

The bad boy of the YBAs, whose controversial creations have dominated the art scene since the 1990s, has put pickling sharks on hold to launch a gallery. The south London space will be used to showcase contemporary exhibitions drawn from Damien Hirst’s personal art collection. The inaugural display, entitled Power Stations, features the creations of the late John Hoyland, one of Britain’s best-known abstract painters. From 8 October, Newport Street, SE11 newportstreetgallery.com

Olympia Winter Art and Antiques Fair Silver pitcher, Portugal, c.1940, Isabelo Lopes de Silvia

Kraka vase by sven Pamqvist. Sweden, 1965

Anyone looking to continue their art shopping spree come autumn can do so at Olympia. Celebrating its 25th anniversary, the 120-exhibitor strong fair will be selling an enticing array of beautiful and unusual objects, including an eclectic mix of furniture, art, jewellery and textiles.

Charles Cabrier George III table clock, c1770. Walwyn Antique Clocks

2-8 November, £15 for an advance single admission ticket, Olympia Holland Park Avenue, W14 olympia-antiques.com

Queen’s Gallery The Queen’s Gallery’s winter exhibition is dedicated to Dutch painters who excelled at capturing ordinary people doing everyday things in meticulous detail. A simple premise, but the show promises 17th-century storytelling at its best. Masters of the Everyday: Dutch Artists in the Age of Vermeer 13 November – 14 February £10, Buckingham Palace, SW1A royalcollection.org.uk

Pad Mayfair’s biggest art fair returns, offering the best in modern art, photography, design and tribal arts. If you have a penchant for eclectic design and decoration, don’t miss this prestigious event, where galleries from across the globe will come together to show off their extensive range of wares. 14-18 October, £20, Berkeley Square, W1J, pad-fairs.com

Roberto Giulio Rida ‘Tirreno’ cabinet, Italy, 2014, Wooden structure, coating materials by vintage pieces 1950s/60s. Courtesy of Nilufar Gallery, PAD London 2015

Jan Steen, A Woman at her Toilet, 1663 Royal Collection Trust/ © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2015

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Ai Weiwei, Surveillance Camera, 2010 Courtesy of Ai Weiwei Studio Image © Ai Weiwei

Royal Academy of Arts - Ai Weiwei His outspoken crusade for human rights in China led to his arrest, but Ai Weiwei’s evocative installations continue to speak volumes. The Royal Academy of Arts will be showcasing a number of custom large-scale installations made from marble, steel, glass and, oddly, tea. In his usual controversial style, Weiwei challenges creative freedom and censorship in this not-to-be-missed exhibition. 19 September – 13 December, £16, The Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, W1S royalacademy.org.uk

Serpentine Sackler Gallery

Below: Ushio Shinohara, Doll Festival 1966 Fluorescent paint, oil, plastic board on plywood Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art (Yamamura Collection) © Ushio and Noriko Shinohara

Emerging American artist Rachel Rose has been in demand ever since she scooped the 2015 Frieze Artist Award back in the spring. From this month the Serpentine Gallery will host her first solo show. With an exclusive installation that combines two of Rose’s most recent videos – A Minute Ago and Palisades in Palisades – this unique display won’t fail to provoke and inspire. 1 October – 8 November, Serpentine Sackler Gallery, West Carriage Drive W2, serpentinegalleries.org

The World Goes Pop The global story of Pop Art in all its technicolour glory is the subject of the Tate Modern’s latest show. It considers the use of art as a force for social change, featuring work from across the world produced during the 1960s and 1970s. The EY Exhibition: The World Goes Pop, 17 September – 24 January, £14.50, Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1, tate.org.uk

Above: Rachel Rose, still from A Minute Ago, 2014; HD video, 8’43”. Courtesy of the artist and Pilar Corrias Gallery

Arcot II diamond. 1760; modified 1959 and 2011. India. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited 2014 The Krays briefcase with syringe and poison © Museum of London

Uncovered The button that was used to convict David Greenwood of murder, 1918 © Museum of London

Fancy yourself as the next Sherlock Holmes? Artefacts from the Metropolitan Police’s never before seen Crime Museum will go on display at the Museum of London in a new exhibition exploring advances in detection, the impact of crime on society and even evidence surrounding some of the country’s most notorious unsolved crimes. The Crime Museum Uncovered 9 October – 10 April, £10 Museum of London, 150 London Wall, EC2Y museumoflondon.org.uk

V&A

Balaclava and hat worn by gun-man involved in Spaghetti House Siege, 1975 © Museum of London

Dip into the jewellery box of the Al Thani private collection at the V&A for a fascinating look at tradition and modernity in Indian jewellery. Part of the museum’s India Festival, this astounding collection holds everything from jewel-encrusted sword hilts and Mughal jades to carved emeralds and a rare jewelled gold finial from Tipu Sultan’s throne. Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection 21 November – 28 March, £10, V&A, Cromwell Road, SW7, vam.ac.uk

spotlight Left: Natural Frame by Morkel Erasmus (South Africa) Below: The Shark Surfer by Thomas Peschak (Germany/South Africa) both © Natural History Museum

Wildlife Photographer of the Year This year’s shutterbugs have been snapping away in preparation for the much anticipated Wildlife Photographer of the Year award. Marvel at the beauty and diversity of our world in an exhibition of the entrants’ work, held as always at the Natural History Museum. 16 October – 10 April, £12.60, Natural History Museum Cromwell Road, SW7, nhm.ac.uk

A Bullet From A Shooting Star by Alex Chinneck supported by Knight Dragon. Image courtesy of the London Design Festival

X marks the spot Promoting creativity in the capital, the London Design Festival celebrates design through an array of events dotted around the capital. This year’s highlights include a specially created Shooting Star installation by sculptor Alex Chinneck, and the introduction of Somerset House as a new location for the festival, where events and displays will take place throughout the week. 19 – 27 September, Somerset House, Strand, WC2R londondesignfestival.com

Peter Blake, Leslie and Clodagh Waddington, 1996, oil on canvas, 56 x 74 cm, courtesy the artist and Waddington Custot Galleries

Zabludowicz collection This latest commission at the Zabludowicz Collection takes the form of the shocking yet engaging work of Jon Rafman in his first major UK exhibition. Rafman’s key aim is to construct works that blur the real and the virtual, taking them to another dimension. 8 October – 20 December, 176 Prince of Wales Road, NW5 zabludowiczcollection.com

Your chance to see Waddington Custot Galleries presents the first ever exhibition of Peter Blake’s portraits, the subjects of which include Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Elvis Presley. Alongside the Hollywood stars, Blake’s watercolours of wrestlers and tattooed men and women will also be on display. Peter Blake: Portraits and People 24 November – 30 January, Waddington Custot Galleries 11 Cork Street W1S, waddingtoncustot.com

Jon Rafman, New Age Demanded (Ridgeman Copper), 2014

Jon Rafman, New Age Demanded (Pointer Man Chrome), 2014

Jon Rafman, New Age Demanded (Elegant Rock Virus IKB), 2014

Images courtesy of Jon Rafman, Zabludowicz Collection and FEUER/MESLER, New York

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Ligne Roset Westend 23/25 Mortimer Street 0207 323 1248 www.ligne-roset-westend.co.uk

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PR ADO settee with cushion & EVERY WHERE sideboard. Design: Christian Werner. LUMIĂ&#x2C6;RE NOIRE floor lamps. Design: Philippe Nigro.

Mystery shopper Before the world was blessed with the sound of Paloma Faithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s voice, the singer spent her days selling smalls in the Soho branch of Agent Provocateur. It seems there was no better person, then, to star in the labelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Knickers Forever campaign. The sultry A/W15 launch is a celebration of Agent Provocateur's London roots and a nod to its former retail assistants. Fellow shop-girl turned photographer Alice Hawkins shot the campaign, which features Faith sporting the latest line of sassy lingerie in a fantasy store. agentprovocateur.com

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Fashion news By Ellen Millard

Fit for a queen As summer ends and the looming grey skies of autumn cast a shadow over everything, nothing makes us welcome the prospect of staying indoors more than Olivia von Halle’s latest range. The Buckingham Collection comprises jewel-toned pyjamas and pastel nightgowns in timeless yet contemporary styles. Hand-painted patterns taken from a 1920s archive print adorn a selection of floor-length silk robes and nightshirts, with three new styles for autumn: the Capability and Ada robes, and the Vita nightshirt and short set. PJ days have never been so glamorous. From a selection, Liberty, Regent Street W1B, oliviavonhalle.com

Spy kids Blades of glory Any heel that’s given the green light by Victoria Beckham, Anne Hathaway, and Kate Bosworth is one we’re happy to shuffle our feet into, and even more so if it’s a one-off number. The brains behind the Blade shoe, Casadei, has launched a bespoke service exclusive to Harrods, giving fans of the signature shoe the opportunity to customise it to their taste, from the heel height to the lining and piping. Customers will receive a Polaroid of their specially designed Blade signed by Cesare Casadei himself, and will have their initials carved into the soles.

This season Diane von Furstenberg has channelled her inner James Bond with the new Secret Agent bag, modelled by Karlie Kloss in the label’s first ever accessory-led campaign. The tote is offered in a range of styles and, as to be expected from secret agent accessories, comes with a hidden twist. Each style features a detachable clutch – the designs of which can be mixed and matched – offering a simple style solution for post-work drinks. Now all you need to do is order a Martini. From a selection, dvf.com

From £550, plus 20 per cent for customisation harrods.com

fashion

Totes amazing Ahead of Escada’s 40th anniversary next year, the brand has unveiled the ML40, a commemorative bag named after the label’s founder Margaretha Ley. The tote marks a new direction for Escada, which is beginning to take a more contemporary approach. Available in three sizes – maxi, medi and mini – the ML40 is crafted from nappa leather and crocodile, and is available in a range of colours including cobalt blue, sunny yellow and fire engine red. From a selection, escada.com

Raising the bar Following the introduction of Thomas’s Café, Burberry has further expanded its Regent Street store to include the Burberry Scarf Bar, a celebration of the label’s signature cashmere accessory. Offering you the chance to customise every detail of your wrap – from the colour and print to the monogram size – the specialist area will showcase all 30 colours available, several of which are new for autumn. The brand is also giving its Heritage Trench Coat a revamp, offering the iconic mac in two new shades of navy and Parade Red. Burberry, 121 Regent Street, W1B burberry.com

Check mate Aspinal of London and Être Cécile have joined forces to create a capsule collection for the new season. Eye-catching neon stripes stand out on bags, backpacks and leather wallets in navy, burgundy and forest green, but our favourite has to be the Marylebone Mini (pictured) revamped in navy and fuchsia plaid. Bags from £295, 46 Marylebone High Street, W1U, aspinaloflondon.com

EDITOR'S PICK

Style coach Autumn is the season in which to invest in the perennial staples: thick coats, chunky knits and biker boots that will see you snugly through the colder months of the year. For all your autumn wardrobe pointers, look to Coach which has launched a collection with cult classics in mind. Calling on American icons for inspiration, the new ready-towear range mixes leather jackets with soft shearling, creating a laid-back line that emulates New York chic. What’s more, for the first time the brand’s all-star range will be available to buy at Selfridges, making the seasonal transition smoother. selfridges.com

Black lace Amanda Wakeley has called on Mongolia’s nomadic tribespeople for inspiration this autumn, offering a collection of contrasting textures, oversized silhouettes and graphic prints. For eveningwear, the designer has turned to lace, creating jumpsuits and embellished dresses from a contemporary lace design, while her daywear range sees mohair jackets, cashmere jumpers and tartan prints lead the way into the new season. From a selection amandawakeley.com

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Carmine red floral patchwork quilted cotton trench coat, £2,295, Burberry Prorsum, uk.burberry.com; Gold and pearl earrings, £1,735, Diego Percossi Papi; Diamond Butterfly ring, £14,700, NOA, both at Talisman Gallery, 020 7201 8582

Smoke and

Mirrors

Reflect the glamorous mood of the season with shimmering gowns, jacquard prints, metallic embellishments and sequined accessories ď&#x192;ľ Photography Phillip Waterman

stylist Jess Stebbings

Above Metallic brocade Jackie dress, £1,470, Stella McCartney, 30 Bruton Street, W1J; Gold clutch bag, £550, Butler & Wilson, butlerandwilson.co.uk; Gold and pearl earrings, Talisman Gallery, as before; Double Angel Skinny bracelet, £23,700, Messika, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X Right Darcy sequinned silk gown, £8,850, Ralph Lauren collection, ralphlauren.co.uk; Diamond earrings, £12,890, Amrapali, 55 Beauchamp Place, SW3

Above Rose dress, POA, DVF, dvf.com; Diamond earrings, £14,500, Amrapali, as before; Diamond ring, £3,525, Bee Goddess, Harrods, as before Right Jacquard jacket, £830, shirt, £230 and jacquard trousers, £520, all Carven, carven.com; Earrings, £169, Amishi, amishi.london; Candice sandals, £470, Pedro Garcia, pedrogarcia.com

Above Embellished dress, POA, Philipp Plein, plein.com; Earrings, £279, Amishi, as before Right Jacquard coat, £1,900, Erdem, 70 South Audley Street, W1K; Diamond earrings, £14,500, Amrapali, as before; Diamond ring, Bee Goddess, Harrods, as before

STYLIST’S ASSISTANT Jas Reif HAIR & MAKE-UP Celia Guiney using Kevin Murphy and Cosmetics à La Carte PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Kevin Baker MODEL Jhenyfy @ Nevs Models Shot on location at The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London in the Deluxe Park Suite mandarinoriental.com/london

t was salvador dali who said, “A true artist is not one who is inspired, but one who inspires others.” Having long been overlooked by art historians and anthropologists as an accurate window into how people lived – or, in many cases, how many aspired to live – an interest in illustration, namely fashion illustration in particular, has undergone a bit of a revival of late, its study now falling under the ambiguous umbrella of ‘material culture’. Publisher Frances Lincoln has this week released a new, weighty tome titled The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration, where author Julian Robinson, with Gracie Calvey, explores in great detail through lengthy text, but, more appealingly, a vast collection of historical visual imagery, the history of the art form as a benchmark for recording and stimulating social change spanning 400 years. Growing up dyslexic in working class 1930s Britain, author Robinson’s love for illustration came at quite a young age when a career in manual labour or academia both seemed out of reach: “An image

can speak volumes, to the heart and mind, without the need for a single word,” he writes. Extremely well researched (although in parts quite long-windedly narrated), the visual archive that he has collated over the years confirms his belief that we all share the same “aesthetic need” to manipulate our appearance. “All over the world, I have found what are basically fashion images,” he opens, “painted on rock faces in the Australian tropics, in Egyptian tombs, on Grecian pottery, Minoan and Roman walls, carved in Assyrian or Aztec stone.” He references and replicates painted prehistoric figures currently being researched in north-west Australia (pictured over page), and explores the development of the art form all the way through the Renaissance – where illustrations begin, he surmises. He shows the work and will of the artist as well as what their sitter was wearing. Robinson also makes reference to the impact of the first key ‘fashion illustration’ publications, including the

Back to the Dr With the publication of The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration this month, Kari Colmans explores the history of the medium, dating back to pre-historic times, while asking what the future holds for the craft in a digital, photo-saturated age 

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1587 The Theatre of Women (or Gynaeceum), which contained many woodcuts illustrating ‘the female costumes of all the principal nations, tribes and peoples of Europe’ and Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni di Diverse Parti del Mondo in the 1590s by Venetian painter Cesare Vecellio, which revealed the dress styles favoured by men and women of the new wealthy merchant class. While politically it was a time of religious fervour and papal-ordered book burning, these publications somehow slipped through the net as they were seen as nothing more than frivolous pictures of clothes. With the beginnings of a humanist movement in the 17th century came a “new conviction in the natural dignity of man and a blossoming of aesthetic values”. The growth of a new social order and a boom in trade and professions soon gave way to a burgeoning middle class. Exposed to other cultures and styles, they began to use their wealth to better their appearance. “As the wealth of these communities increased, so

the number of artists and artisans exploded to cater for the growing demand in portraits, accessories and furnishings, capable of showcasing their clients’ position, wares and belongings.” And so this trend soared through the centuries (the compendium has dedicated chapters up to the 1940s), until we reach the Art Deco age, where the unique angular, boldly coloured fashions – most recognisable as the kinds of images we associate with fashion illustration today – were being promoted by top fashion magazines. The stylised designs of these avant-garde illustrators captured the changing attitudes of the time. From here right up until the 1950s, fashion illustration was an integral part of the highly skilled creative process that characterised the industry. Indeed, it wasn’t until 1932 that Vogue ran its first non-illustrated cover, which marked a turning point in the future of the craft. After WWII the introduction of Christian Dior’s New Look kickstarted a process of commercialisation through

awing Board? From L-R: Charles Martin, Modes et Manières d’Aujourd’hui, hand-coloured pochoir, 1913; José Zinoview, La Guirlande: Album d’Art et de Littérature, hand-coloured pochoir, 1920; Styl, pochoir over lithograph, 1924; George Barbier, La Gazette du Bon Ton, hand-coloured pochoir, 1921; Paul Allier, L’Hiver from Quatre Saisons, hand-coloured pochoir, mid-1920s. All images courtesy of The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration

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the concept of ready-to-wear, while the invention of new high-speed cameras and colour film meant that photography began to replace illustration. Mass production lead to increased advertising and persuasive budgets, and while artist’s sketches were still important, photography was proving increasingly popular, and effective, for the bottom line. And this is where the book ends, with Robinson surmising that illustration “as ever a commercial art, would survive and continue,” but the ethos that had fuelled the halcyon days, when artists had “free rein to create high-fashion fantasies” had changed. Yet, while the golden age of fashion illustration may have passed, whereby the skill was a creative and journalistic necessity, anyone with a social media account, or indeed a subscription to the same glossy fashion bibles that provided the platform for the craft to flourish, will know that the story doesn’t end there; it has simply moved with the times. Just as the craftsman of the Enlightenment era used copper-plate engravings, which in turn led to the use of etching, aquatints and pochoir prints, so too has the skill continued to evolve with the advance of both computer technology, and the way we consume news and imagery in general. While fashion sketches enhanced or generated by computers utilise a combination of software and its user’s style and work, there is some debate within the industry as to whether these tools should be categorised the same way as those original brushes and pens are. Is the line between artistic skill and computer wizardry blurred? Although historically, fashion illustrators have relied on a symbiotic relationship between publishing houses and designers, the majority (if not all) of publishing today requires

Historically, fashion illustrators have relied on a symbiotic relationship between publishing houses and designers

digital input whether for print or online, so those who want to get published, in the old-fashioned sense of the word, are constricted to following this new way of working. Yet with their own platforms on Instagram, where accounts such as @dallasshaw, @drawbertson and @jennymwalton generate a huge following through their witty, beautiful and immediate observations straight from the catwalk, the middle man magazine house seems to be losing out more than the illustrators themselves. Industry stalwart and commentator Colin McDowell has written a piece on the subject in his businessoffashion.com column. Here he laments the demise of the industry, and the skill as we know it, but questions whether in its new form it can offer “an antidote to fashion banality”, (as posed by the column’s headline). “In my opinion, the demise of the brush and pencil as the primary tools of fashion documenters was a disaster not only for the artists, but also for fashion reporting in general… But there was one brave, inspired attempt to keep fashion illustration alive 20-odd years after it virtual collapse in the 1950s,” he writes. “Published in Italy by Condé Nast in the early 1980s and edited by Anna Piaggi, the magazine Vanity gave considerable prominence to fashion illustration and especially the work of Antonio Lopez. But it was a short-lived publication, because

From L-R: Eduardo García Benito, La Gazette du Bon Ton, hand-coloured pochoir, 1921; La Belle Assemblée, hand-coloured stipple-engraved aquatint, 1810; Author’s drawing, Bradshaw rock paintings, Australia; Carlos Bady, La Journée de Mado, hand-coloured pochoir, 1934; Simon Puget, La Gazette du Bon Ton, hand-coloured pochoir, 1914; François-Louis-Joseph Watteau, La Galerie des Modes, hand-coloured copperplate engraving, 1782. All images courtesy of The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration

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advertisers considered it too specialist to be a vehicle for them. Photography had won.” While he is keen to maintain that he is by no means against photography – and that illustration can’t compete with capturing a contemporary attitude or agenda, which is why the medium is so valuable – he finds it irksome that too many of today’s fashion illustrators copy the techniques and poses of 60 years ago, and are not reinventing the wheel. On the other hand, when I ask The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration’s authors Robinson and Calvey why they think there has been such a resurgence of late, they feel the art is even more appropriate in the digital age. “Online magazines and the constantly updated blogs need continual feeding,” says Robinson. “An artist can more quickly respond to those needs... photographs require models, sets, clothes, time and most importantly, a budget, whereas an artist uses skill and imagination. Perhaps, as has happened several times before in the history of fashion publication, the buying public has simply got fed up with seeing images of so-called fashionable clothes that are already out of date by the time of publication. In an age where western fashion is global and fashion photography pushes a particular version of beauty and fashion to sell it, it’s the illustrators who can best inject the missing ingredients of humour and personality that go the extra mile in creating the real magic of Style; capital S intended.” “The public is fed up with photographs, and photos are so retouched as to be unreal,” Calvey adds. “The internet and social media are sponges for photographs… whole generations are growing up thinking life needs constant recording, as if it doesn't exist without photographic proof, and yet retouching and photo-manipulation are the order of the day. So what does that say about truth? You can't call a lot of the current photography ‘fashion photography’ as much of it is only relevant to the promotion of ready-made clothes. Fashion illustration, on the other

hand, always captures and projects something of the future. This is what makes it interesting and alive. Photography catalogues the available while illustration creates the possible, and does it in a way that retains the spirit and soul of the idea.” What’s certain is that it’s impossible, like with most cultural signifiers, to separate fashion illustration from the technological and societal fads of the time. And as we continue to be inundated and saturated with ‘fashion photography’ (be it the work of amateurs, experts or brands), fashion illustration is once again gaining appeal among those looking for a more personal, less homogenous and less anonymous experience. These modern illustrators are mixing pixels and paint to create something totally new, honest and appropriate for conveying the time they find themselves in – producing work for bigger audiences than ever before. And with the avalanche of new social media outlets and online publications, individuals, not editors, are slowly taking back control. As dear ole’ Dali would say: “Drawing is the honesty of the art.”

The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration by Julian Robinson and Gracie Calvey, £35, published by Frances Lincoln, franceslincoln. com, is out now. All images courtesy of The Fine Art of Fashion Illustration

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Block Party ď&#x192;ľ Photography Ian Walsh

stylist Vanissa Antonious

Clockwise from bottom left: Clutch bag, £795, Charlotte Olympia, net-a-porter.com; Gold-plated ring, £220, Arme de L’Amour, net-a-porter.com; Patent leather shoe, £515, Miu Miu, 150 New Bond Street, W1S; Amiulet craquele leather and python bag, £1,890, Miu Miu, as before; Rubber-dipped Mary Jane heel, £550, Prada, 16-18 Old Bond Street, W1S; Leather bag, POA, Loewe, loewe.com; Gold-plated cuff, £280, Arme de L’Amour, as before

Beauty news By Ellen Millard

Nailed it Nails Inc has added four new shades to its Gel Effect collection for A/W15. The glossy polish has a special formula that provides a high-shine finish as well as stronger, healthier nails. This season the varnish has been revamped in smoky shades, directly inspired by colours found on the catwalk. The range includes staple hues of khaki and nude, but personally we'll be showing our devotion to north-west London by wearing the bright orange Regent’s Park Place and the sweet lilac Primrose Hill Lane. £15 each, nailsinc.com

A new leaf Welcome the change in season with Chanel’s autumnal-inspired collection that mirrors nature's shifting colour spectrum with warm shades of golden khaki, copper brown and fiery red. Lipsticks, nail varnish and eye shadows make up the range of staples, including a limited-edition eye palette that mirrors Cistercian stained glass, said to have been the inspiration behind the label’s iconic double C logo.

Au naturel Known for its eclectic mix of apparel, accessories and homeware, Couverture and the Garbstore has turned its hand to fragrance, launching its first ever exclusive collection. Comprising a candle, perfume oil and incense made from bergamot, pink pepper and orange leaves, the range was inspired by founder Emily Dyson’s travels to the Turkish coast, and childhood summers spent in Provence. The aptly named ‘No Chemicals’ line, which consists of completely natural ingredients, offers a fresh, subtle scent that is mirrored across the collection. Packaged in Turkish-inspired dark brown bottles, the range looks as good as it smells.

From £18, chanel.com From £45, couvertureandthegarbstore.com

EDITOR'S PICK

Pucker up Having mastered the perfect pair of heels, Christian Louboutin took on the beauty world last year with a nail lacquer, and succeeded. Back for round two this autumn, the designer has created Rouge Louboutin, a line of lipsticks available in a range of 38 colours and three textures. Ranging from deep purples and pale pinks to nudes and crimson red (of course), the lipsticks are packaged in a black bullet, designed to be worn as a necklace using an accompanying ribbon. £60, christianlouboutin.com

bag

beauty

In the Our pick of the latest must-have handbag essentials

1. Illamasqua’s Equinox collection mirrors the

starry skies of a desert night with its metallic range of eyeshadows, lipstick and nail varnish. For some added sparkle try Broken Gold, a liquid formula designed to use on your eyes, or the Celestial Palette, which comprises four shades of metallic shadow. From a selection, illamasqua.com

2. MAC’s latest collaboration is with Chinese haute couturier Guo Pei, who has loaned her eye for design to the beauty house to create a glamorous collection. Packaged in a floral print of Pei’s own creation, the range consists of pastel eyeshadow palettes, soft pink blushers and bright lipglosses. From a selection maccosmetics.co.uk

3. For those who struggle with dry skin, Aesop’s Blue Chamomile Facial Hydrating Masque has the solution. The intense moisturising formula of the light-weight gel leaves your skin refreshed and soft thanks to its naturally sourced botanicals: ginger root and rosemary leaf. £33, aesop.com 4. Sisley has launched its first ever liquid eyeliner: a black felt-tip designed to provide easy application. Enriched with ‘carbon black’ that creates a matte finish, the formula is quick drying and rub-proof – so no touch-ups necessary. £39, sisley-paris.com 5. Bobbi Brown’s new Luxe Lip Colour is made from an innovative formula that offers bold, long-lasting colour with nourishing ingredients to help keep lips soft and moisturised. The gloss is packaged in a stunning crest-embossed gold bullet and is available in 30 shades. Look out for Your Majesty, a deep-red tone inspired by Bobbi Brown’s love for London. £22.50, bobbibrown.co.uk 6. Ormonde Jayne’s new fragrance, Vanilla d’Iris, was thought up by founder Linda Pilkington many moons ago, and has finally been brought to life this year. Mixing vanilla oil with orris butter, Ormonde Jayne’s latest perfume offers a sweet but seductive scent. £90 for 50ml, ormondejayne.com 7. Guerlain’s new line of lipsticks, blusher and

eyeshadow pays homage to the rose – a flower that the label often turns to for inspiration. The latest collection features a new tinted lip balm, KissKiss Roselip, enriched with rose oil. £26.50, guerlain.com

8. Inspired by the varying landscapes and wildlife

of Africa, one whiff of Memo’s latest fragrance will transport you to the sandy dunes and lush forests of the breathtaking continent. Pack the heady geranium and cardamom-scented African Leather in your overnight bag this autumn. £169, memofragrances.com Vantage | 69

beauty

On the Tiles Ellen Millard test drives the Beaumont’s newly refurbished spa and gymnasium

his time last year there was much to be said of the Beaumont; the lovechild of hoteliers Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, the Mayfair guesthouse was tipped as the one to watch. I pay my first visit nearly a year since its opening, there to ogle the newly refurbished spa and gymnasium, and to try out the traditional hamam treatment followed by a 60-minute massage. Fresh from its August makeover, the space is a pleasant mosaic of Art Deco tiles that looks a bit like an oversized bathroom, albeit one kitted out with a hamam, steam room, plunge pool, two treatment rooms and a barber. My treatment begins with a 10-minute stint in the steam room, a chance to open my pores before I am led to the hamam, a bijou but cosy room with a heated marble slab. I lie on the table as my therapist buffs my skin with traditional savon noir (black soap). I am then given the choice of two exfoliating pads, one that feels like sandpaper (“Some customers are a bit scared of this one”) and a gentler option. As this is my first hamam, I opt for the latter. Post-exfoliation I am covered in a rhassoul clay paste and wrapped in a muslin cloth. “I’m from France but I have Egyptian origins, so you are being wrapped by an Egyptian,” my therapist quips, before placing a lavender pillow over my eyes and leaving me to reap the benefits of my paper cocoon. Once I’m rinsed off and wrapped in my fluffy robe, myself and my new silky-smooth skin are taken to a second treatment room where my massage takes place.

The space is a pleasant mosaic of Art Deco tiles that looks a bit like an oversized bathroom, albeit one kitted out with a hamam

70 | Vantage

Using organic Argan oil, my therapist works at the muscles in my legs and feet, before turning to my arms, shoulders and back, and culminating the treatment with a head massage that nearly sends me to sleep. Treatment over, I wave off any plans to test out the plunge pool, and instead make myself at home in the relaxation room. It’s with regret that I leave, but there’s reason to return; a newly instated osteopath is on hand to ease desk-weary backs, and a mani/ pedi room is soon to open. One thing’s for sure, the Beaumont certainly still lives up to the hype. Hamam treatment with 60-minute massage, £160 Beaumont spa and gymnasium, Brown Hart Gardens W1K, thebeaumont.com

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Bohemian rhapsody Designs by leader of the Arts and Crafts Movement William Morris have been reimagined for House of Hackney's A/W15 line. The artist’s trademark textiles are given the psychedelic treatment, with three original prints reworked in bright pillar-box red and vivid aquamarine to adorn lampshades, wallpaper, plush velvet sofas and cushions. House of Hackney worked closely with the William Morris Gallery to play with the scale of Morris’ signature floral motifs and to create a homage design. Group pieces from the collection together to deliver a hypnotic print-onprint effect or, if subtlety is more your thing, select a scatter cushion or two to liven up your living room. £128 per 9-metre roll, House of Hackney x William Morris, houseofhackney.com

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Interiors news By Lauren Romano

Tub time The Romans were the first to make us Brits clean up our act when they brought their bathing rituals to this side of the Channel. For a splash of modern day imperial decadence, few tubs can compete with the opulent offerings of Maison Valentina. From black high-gloss tubs cleaved into diamond shapes to brushed brass baths that resemble sculptures and a Newton vessel covered in lacquered spheres, the prospect of a long soak has never been so appealing – just add bubbles. POA, maisonvalentina.net

The perks of being a wallflower

Wax lyrical In the competitive wick and tallow market it’s hard for a candle to stand out from the crowd. Not so for Fornasetti Profumi, however, which has once again played to its quirky roots to create a new range of decorative objects that also moonlight as candles. The brand’s trademark whimsical humour flickers through the A/W15 collection, with new designs that encompass both the heady pine needle aromas of the malachite scent and the thyme and lavender-laced Otto aroma. Opt for a Salvador Dali-inspired woman; a half human, half skull motif, or the graphic, rippled effect of the malachite design. From £115, fornasetti.com

A million miles away from a magnolia paint job, Cole & Son’s latest collection of wallpapers isn’t for the faint hearted. The Geometric II range of dizzying designs is inspired by myriad influences, from Art Deco architecture to lush tropical foliage. Miami design £295 per 10-metre roll cole-and-son.com

interiors

Cotton on As Autumn approaches, now is the time to invest in some new bed linen for the season ahead. Made from 200-thread count cotton, the latest linens from Bohzaar are the stuff that lie-ins are made of, and come in floral and bold tribal designs. Choose from the delicate paisley Bohemian Sundara or the nomadic Panthera Ikat motif (pictured), available in single, double, king and super-king sizes.

EDITOR'S PICK

In the spotlight

From £15, bohzaar.co.uk

Silver lining

Clockwise from top: Allan Scharff sterling silver vase, £1,300; Georg Jensen bonbonnière in sterling silver and green agate, £6,640, exclusive to Harrods; Henning Koppel pitcher, £15,320

Renowned silversmiths Georg Jensen has opened the doors of its new silver room in Harrods. Showcasing design classics from the likes of Henning Koppel and Sigvard Bernadotte, you’ll be spoilt for choice with its wide array of objects, as well as a little dazzled by the sheer beauty of the craftsmanship. To celebrate the launch, the design studio has created an exclusive bonbonnière, which has been elegantly adorned with green agate in homage to the Harrods colours. Available at Harrods

Daydream believer Anyone who has ever set foot in the Kameha Grand Hotel in Zurich will have encountered design maverick Marcel Wanders’ flamboyance first hand; from the floating bed in the space suite to the gold sequin-encrusted walls, his interiors are wacky to say the least. By comparison, Wanders’ latest sofa collection for Moooi is surprisingly subtle. With rounded contours and a sinkin seat, the Cloud Sofa comes in a range of bouclé, twill or velour, finished with soft white cushions that will work ‘Wanders’ on your living room.

Nobody does sleek, showpiece lighting quite like Jonathan Adler. His latest A/W15 range, which, in his words is ‘part Palm Beach, part Upper East Side chic,’ features touches of lucite and bronze throughout for a pinch of pizazz. Highlights of the collection include an intricately interlocking Puzzle Table Lamp and chic Maxime column floor lamp, but if you’re looking for a truly standout fixture that is guaranteed to light up the room, then look no further than the Giant Sputnik Chandelier (pictured) – an impressive reimagining of a retro design classic. Sputnik chandeliers from £950 jonathanadler.com

Closet case From drinks cabinets that wouldn’t look out of place on the set of Mad Men to sideboards so large they could make the perfect hiding spot in a game of sardines, Boca Do Lobo’s A/W15 collection encompasses cupboards of all shapes and sizes. A far cry from your average storage solutions, the range includes pieces designed to make a bold statement. For maximum impact opt for the colourful Pixel Cabinet, crafted from an impressive 1,088 triangles in a variety of woods and finishes, from gold and silver leaf to ebony and walnut veneer, perfect for stashing away all your box sets. POA, bocadolobo.com

From £4,323, moooi.com

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interview

Prints

Charming

Ahead of the Fashion and Textile Museum’s exhibition Liberty in Fashion, Lauren Romano unravels the success story of the 140-year-old department store and design studio by delving into its past with textile archivist Anna Buruma 

t doesn’t take much digging to discover that Arthur Lasenby Liberty didn’t have quite as many skeletons in his cupboard as fellow department store magnate Harry Gordon Selfridge. When ITV came a-knocking it was the later, less straitlaced businessman the producers turned to for their TV series conveying shopping with a side order of scandal. “He was perhaps not quite as colourful,” suggests Liberty’s in-house textile archivist Anna Buruma, from her chair ensconced in the storecupboard at Lasenby House, the walls lined two-deep with ageing pattern books. “He was married to an actress for about three months, but that didn’t work out and his family tried to sweep it under the carpet. After that he was very respectable, there was no dirty laundry really.” While Mr Selfridge teased his shoppers with innovative perfume counters that were given pride of

place on the ground floor of his Oxford Street flagship when it opened in 1909, Mr Liberty had already established his business as a design and decorative arts force to be reckoned with. From modest beginnings selling coloured silks on nearby Regent Street in 1875, Liberty soon diversified into cashmere, lacquerware, enamel and furniture. Back in the day you might have bumped into artists and aesthetes such as Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Frederic Leighton and Oscar Wilde shopping for their tea guns and oriental goods. “I was determined not to follow existing fashions but to create new ones,” Liberty once said. He was the son of a draper who learned the tricks of the trade as an apprentice at Farmer & Rogers’ Great Shawl & Cloak Emporium, where he worked as a salesman on the oriental department – textiles were part of the equation from the beginning. Mr Liberty opened a dress

Clockwise from top left: A floral print © Liberty Fabric Limited; Liberty Madurai Madras check overlaid with traditional Liberty florals © Carlton Books; Whirlygig print impression, Colleen Farr for Liberty, 1960 © Liberty Fabric Limited; Hera © Liberty Fabric Limited; Modern paisley style design by Ceraggio for Liberty, 1960 © Liberty Fabric Limited

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department in 1884 that went on to play a prevalent role in the evolution of fashion in the capital, swaying the sartorial choices of generations of Londoners. “The store has stood the test of time because Liberty was such a visionary founder,” Buruma explains. “He pushed the business along from a tiny shop importing oriental textiles to an amazing lifestyle emporium. You could get your clothes, jewellery, silverware, china and pottery – there was even a furniture factory. It was a destination store and it became associated with a very particular, unique style.” On the fashion front, the store has always collaborated with the crème de la crème, from Arthur Silver of Silver Studio to Jean Muir, Cacherel, Yves Saint Laurent and more recently the likes of Vivienne Westwood and global clothing brands Acne, Barbour and Nike. “In many respects, Liberty was rather pioneering,” Buruma continues. “There were department stores but they didn’t have a very specific lifestyle section or a specific style. By the late 1870s Liberty began to commission printers to print and dye imported textiles specially for the store, and it grew from there.” Grew is the operative word here. Buruma has dedicated the last 20 years to sorting through and cataloguing the colossal textiles archive the store has amassed onto a database that is accessible to the current design studio. “As a ballpark figure we say we have 40,000 designs, but there are so many different variations that it is impossible to

“When you flick through the fabrics you get a feel for the brand; you have to have Liberty in your head before you can design Liberty”

count!” she laughs. “I have a desk in the design studio where I liaise constantly with the designers. Up until two years ago the entire archive was stored in various London locations. Now it’s out in deep storage in the countryside. These books,” she says, pointing to the pattern books which fill boxes lined up along the parameter of the room, “are compiled of designs from the 1950s up until the early 2000s.” Ordinarily Liberty releases two seasonal collections a year with about 40 new prints, as well as a classic range of quintessential Liberty styles and smaller swimwear and childrenswear ranges. “I think the archive has been the key to respecting Liberty’s roots and pushing things forward. It’s not just about re-issuing designs. When you flick through the fabrics you get a feel for the brand; you have to have Liberty in your head before you can design Liberty.” This autumn, Buruma’s encyclopaedic knowledge of prints has been put to the test. To co-inside with the 140th anniversary of the company, the Fashion and Textile Museum’s forthcoming exhibition Liberty in Fashion opens this month. Anna has worked

interview

alongside curator Dennis Nothdruft to authenticate the collection which features more than 150 garments, textiles and objects. A series of eclectic get-ups – a 1890s cape made from embroidered Chinese shawls; a 1930s Paul Poiret silk robe – piece together a visual history of the store and its role as a trendsetter. Quick to embrace the youth culture that dawned in the post-war decade, a Young Liberty line was introduced in the 1950s to showcase the best new British and international design. Throughout that decade and the next, a wave of creatives from Carnaby Street’s young designers’ crowd were drawn to Liberty’s on-trend and innovative textile studio. “I wrote a book called Liberty in the Fifties and Sixties because that era fascinates me so much,” Buruma says. “It was an interesting time after the war, a strange time. On the one hand you had that very old-fashioned sentiment of wanting to hold onto everything from before the war and then you had the other generation who wanted to push things forward, and Liberty was very much doing both.” Liberty is certainly a chameleon of reinvention. During her time as the store’s archivist, Buruma has helped a number of designers dip into the archive. She recalls Vivienne Westwood paying a visit when working on her 1994 collection On Liberty and,

most vividly, Japanese fashion designer Junya Watanabe poking around. “Back then I still had the archive in a whole room and he was like a kid in a sweetie shop”. Then there was a recent collaboration with Acne, which was another highlight. “I loved what they did. They picked a really obscure print.” When I ask her to pick her favourite print, her face creases in a slightly pained way like you might imagine a parent’s to when asked to choose their favourite child. “It varies from year to year. Textile designers are anonymous people and unfairly so. We have one significant designer whose name we don’t even know!” she admits, turning the pages of a pattern book to find examples of their work. “All we know is that they have the initials DS. It’s so annoying, and so sad. The archive is mostly [full of] unanswered questions.” But for every unknown there were plenty of epochmarking designers who left an indelible stamp. From 1950s furniture fabric creator Robert Stewart to the founder of the Liberty design studio Colleen Farr, who went on to become the head of textiles at Central Saint Martins, many designers made a name for themselves at the store. In the 1960s, the enigmatic Bernard Nevill was in and out of newspaper fashion pages, and later in the 1970s Susan Collier began mining the archive for the paisleys and florals long associated with the company, tapping into the vintage revival trend. Having celebrated its official 140th birthday in May, the studio continues to expand gradually. “I’m amongst it all. I get swept up in the excitement when I find something that really fits with the brief the design studio is working on,” Buruma says. But will they still be saying that a century down the line? “It’s such a special place, I love the fact that people really feel that they own Liberty; different generations love it for different reasons. Liberty has, and hopefully always will be ‘in fashion’.” Liberty in Fashion is at the Fashion and Textile Museum from 9 October – 28 February ftmlondon.org; liberty.co.uk

Clockwise from far left: An archive print © Liberty Fabric Limited; Cocktail dress by American designer Arnold Scaasi, 1961, made with Eustacia Liberty fabric © Ernestine Carter Archive, Fashion Museum, Bath and North East Somerset Council; Two floral prints © Liberty Fabric Limited; Bengal on silk by Bernard Nevill for Liberty, from the book Liberty and Co in the Fifties and Sixties, published by the Antiques Collectors Club © Liberty Fabric Limited; Eustacia print impression, printed at Liberty and Co. Ltd Merton print works, 1960 © Liberty Fabric Limited

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Colou r ch a rt 3

Pink Ground

Holly Fulton A/W15

Pink Ground creates a humble beauty, making rooms feel pretty, soft-edged and accessible

8 1 Nude triangle cushion, £47, Bloomingville, amara.com 2 Egg cup, £6, GreenGate, houseology.com 3 Alberte teapot, £28, Bloomingville, as before 4 Themba rustic picture frame, £29, Dassie, dassie.co.uk 5 Gardenias vase, POA, BD Barcelona, discoverdeliver.com 6 Retro chair, £70, Graham and Green, grahamandgreen.co.uk 7 Jewel wine goblet in pink sapphire, £29, Nina Campbell, houseology.com 8 Nude metal votive, £18, Bloomingville, as before 9 Celestial candle holder, £60, Skultana, skultana.com 10 Florence Flamingo, £35, Graham and Green, as before

interiors

Farrow & Ball reveals the perfect A/W15 shades to bring a pop of pastel colour into homes. As the sky begins to turn a distinctive shade of grey, inject a cheery splash of Pink Ground and Light Blue 

Altuzarra A/W15

8 7

Light Blue

We gravitate towards colours that remind us of the lighter side of life to make our homes an oasis of calm

1 Casserole dish, £175, Le Creuset, selfridges.co.uk 2 Chaise Directoire Provenciale, POA, Massant, discoverdeliver.com 3 Hemingway design ceramic vase, £30, Royal Doulton, selfridges.co.uk 4 Daphne I vase, POA, Driade, discoverdeliver.com 5 Hand-dyed Shibori sofa, £1,700 Anthropologie, anthropologie.co.uk 6 Retro phone in French Blue, £50, Wild & Wolf, 746 Phone, johnlewis.com 7 Cicciona, POA, Fratelli Boffi, discoverdeliver.com 8 Old Havana side plate, £12, Anthropologie, as before 9 1815 large jug, £35, Royal Doulton, as before 10 Ticking striped cushion cover, £39, Lexington, amara.com

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Bargai n Hunter As Alfies Antiques Market gets set to celebrate the London Design Festival, owner Bennie Gray chats to Ellen Millard about celebrity clients, sitcomworthy relationships and the antiques that got away 

t’s a miserable Wednesday in August when I arrive at Alfies Antiques Market, its warren an inviting reprieve from the torrential rain outside. With simple instructions to go upstairs and turn left, I begin to navigate my way along the narrow corridors before quickly losing all sense of direction in a labyrinth of jewellery, denim waistcoats and brass bookends shaped like swans. I narrowly avoid crashing into a crystal maze of Art Deco chandeliers, and after asking for more directions from one dealer – the owner of said swans – I find myself face-to-face with the man of the manor himself, Bennie Gray. Previously an investigative journalist for The Sunday Times and, in his own words, a “failed musician”, Bennie started Alfies Antiques after the previous inhabitant, a department store that sold “knicker-elastic and stuff of that nature”, closed down. “It was about the last bit of energy and vitality in this half of Church Street, so it was a real tragedy,” he tells me. “I saw that it was for sale and I thought it would be a great place to start a no-nonsense, unpretentious antiques market.” Starting with the intention of holding a market once a week on the ground floor of the building, Bennie soon discovered that demand was high enough for it to take place every day across all three floors. “It was like giving birth to a baby,” he jokes. “As it began

interview

to grow it took on its own identity, personality and spirit and sort of decided the direction it was going in. Over the years it’s evolved, and now this entire end of Church Street has pretty much become inhabited by antiques dealers, of whom the vast majority started off at Alfies. To some extent we’ve played our part in the regeneration of this area of London.” Nearly 40 years since it began, Alfies and Church Street have become a destination for antiques, and to celebrate this year Alfies will partner with the London Design Festival to host a day of talks and demonstrations from specialists and a selection of the market’s 80 dealers. With so many people working under one roof, Gray tells me that Alfies is very much a community, and gossip is rife among the traders. “It’s like Coronation Street,” he teases. “The battles, the love affairs, the feuds, the rivalries; you could easily make a very successful television series here because there’s so much going on the whole time.” There’d be no shortage of celebrity cameos either thanks to the roll-call of starstudded clients looking to satisfy their penchant for collectables. “Rod Stewart used to come in a lot until one day one of our dealers started walking after him singing ‘Do you think I’m sexy?’” Bennie laughs. “It was outrageously rude. I don’t think Rod ever came back after that!” Despite a background in journalism, Bennie confesses that antiques have always been more his thing, thanks to his parents who also worked in the industry. “My mum used to take me out in her beaten up van on school holidays and weekends to visit antique shops where she would buy things and bring them back to London in the hope that they would sell for a profit,” he tells me, recalling the first time he bought an antique. “I remember going with her to Tunbridge Wells when I was about 13 or 14 to see this ancient gentleman who had a house filled with gear. I noticed a little Chinese vase that I admired enormously, and I bought it for 50p. I don’t know what happened to it, but today it would be priceless.” Talking of ones that got away, Bennie recounts a story of a chaise-longue that he narrowly missed out on 20 years ago. “It was like an aluminium spitfire. The

sculptor wanted something like £3,000 for it, and I offered him £2,000. In the end, nothing happened,” he explains. “A couple of years back, I happened to see that one had been sold at auction in New York that had previously been owned by Madonna, and it fetched nearly a million dollars! If you Google ‘chaiselongue Madonna’ you’ll see it.” Indeed, a quick online search back at the office reveals the ‘spitfire’ to be none other than Marc Newson’s Lockheed Lounge, which set a new world record this April for the most expensive design object ever after selling for £2,434,500 at Phillips auction house in London. “One of the great things with antiques is that you never know when you’re going to pick out a Rembrandt,” Bennie says. “It’s just luck!” Aluminium chairs aside, Bennie’s personal taste for interiors is a balance of minimalism and eccentricity. “I used to like quite cluttered Victorian interiors, but I don’t anymore. Nor do I like sheer anus-clenching minimalism,” he says. “Minimalism is very difficult to achieve because it’s got to be utterly perfect, and it’s very expensive to get it right. I like the way in which you can use simplicity as a backdrop and therefore an emphasis for spectacular things.” Born and bred in Hampstead I press Bennie for his favourite places to go in the area, but aside from “Marks and Spencer’s”, he remains tight lipped. “There is one particularly nice restaurant in Hampstead but it’s already too crowded so I’m not going to say which one it is,” he says defiantly. “I went to school in the area and in those days it was all the butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker, but now there are almost no independent shops. It’s a bit of shame when places lose their local distinctiveness. That’s what’s so good about antiques, it’s not a same-y thing.” In spite of this, he is full of praise for the capital. “I think London is endlessly surprising. You can live here your entire life and there’s still stuff to find out about,” he enthuses. “I think that the extent to which it has become so cosmopolitan is fantastic. You have all these cultural inputs coming into London, and out of it comes a tremendous, wonderful texture. That’s what cities are all about.” Set to celebrate its 40th anniversary next year, I ask what’s next on the agenda for Alfies? “To live forever,” Bennie grins. “We are immortal. We’ve been here 40 years and we’ll be here for another 500.”

“Minimalism is very difficult to achieve because it’s got to be utterly perfect, and it’s very expensive to get it right”

Church Street Design District Trail, 24 September Alfies Antiques, 13-25 Church Street, NW8 londondesignfestival.com

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health & family

Legend has it Everyone loves a good story but no one more so than the team behind Scotch & Soda who has dedicated the labelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A/W15 collection to three mythical tales. The recent range takes inspiration from the Ancient Greek fables of Pegasus (the flying stallion) and the myth of the pomegranate seeds (when goddess of vegetation, Persephone, is forced to live in the underworld by Hades), as well as the mysterious Nazca Lines found in the deserts of Southern Peru. The collection is a mismatch of tribal etchings, animal prints and shearling coats. From ÂŁ20, scotch-soda.com

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Family news By Chloë Riddle

Knit wit Finding child-proof clothes is a chore but resilient activewear is what Smalls does best. Made from super-soft merino wool, the hypoallergenic garments are thermo regulated and durable. The new 24-hour trousers are particularly adventure friendly: designed with a natural resistance to smell, they can be worn for a week before needing to be washed. From £27, lovemysmalls.com

New delivery

Things that go bump in the night With trick or treating just around the corner, Steiff’s new collection of Halloween teddies has arrived in time. From adorable critters like Flaps Black Bat and Wittie Owl to gruesome beasties (we're looking at you, Eusebia tarantula), these cuddly toys will make the perfect addition to your little ghoul’s Halloween costume. From £25, steiff.com

Baby boutique MORI offers a membership service that delivers a parcel of essentials to your door every six weeks, perfectly in sync with your baby’s growth. Inspired by a range of Scandinavian designs, these simple yet stylish garments come in grey and snowy white. Made with silky-soft bamboo fibres that are sustainably grown, MORI’s baby clothes are not only high quality but ethically and environmentally conscious too. Parcels from £42 babymori.com

FAMILY

Fun on the farm

Sister act

For some good old-fashioned fun, why not take a trip over to Ferry Farm and soak up the last of the early autumn sun in the great outdoors? Budding young riders hoping to take the reins can let off some half-term steam at the Heritage Coast Stud, which has more than 50 horses both of racing and competition stock. With 500 acres of marshland and stunning coastal views to soak up, there’s plenty to explore for all the family.

The brainchild of two sisters, Olli Ella offers high quality nursery furniture and decorations that give vintage style a modern twist. From retro beds to playful pastel wall art, there’s something to catch the eye of the fussiest kids. We especially love the handmade sea grass storage baskets and the Nepalese felt rugs. If that’s not enough to tickle your fancy, then check out the Journal section of the website for helpful tips on nursery decoration. From £25, olliella.com

Ferry Farm, Suffolk, hcstud.com

EDITOR'S PICK

Where the wild things are If you go down to the woods today you’re sure of a big surprise, especially if Hibou Home has anything to do with it. The fabric and wallpaper specialists create intricate finishings to fire your children’s imagination and transform their bedrooms into a secret woodland den or a cowboy crawling Wild West. The brand’s latest collection is no exception, featuring charming hand-illustrated characters in an array of muted colours. Fairies and woodland animals adorn the Enchanted Wood range, available in a palette of pinks, lilacs and blues, while things take a more alpine turn with the Into the Wild collection where deer, wolves and bears stalk among the pine trees. £70 per roll, hibouhome.com

Art attack As part of the international Big Draw Festival, The Royal Society invites youngsters of all ages to take part in a day of microscopy-themed art and science activities. From drawing fascinating historical artefacts to making a smartphone microscope to take home, this event aims to explore the bridge between art and science, and is sure to inspire. There will be a dedicated activity area to keep the tiny tots entertained too. 17 October, thebigdraw.org

Trend setters Stylish little Londoners will adore the Stella McCartney Kids A/W15 collection. Funky prints, bright bomber jackets and block colour knitwear worthy of the Modernist movement are this season’s highlights. We love the boy’s Superstellaheroes range and wish that the girls’ grey sparkles coat came in grown-up sizes. Accessorise these outfits with the adorable star boots and a chunky knitwear piece and you’ll be good to go this autumn. From £42, stellamccartney.com

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HEALTH&FITNESS

On your bike There has never been a better time to swap your cumbersome four wheels for a stylish set of two. Just launched this summer, Freddie Grubb is an independent manufacturer of bicycles and accessories, all designed and built in London. Combining handmade frames with quality components, every one of the debut four models channels the retro-cool of a traditional town bike, with all the benefits of modern technology. Named after the capital’s hidden rivers, the colours are so chic, they look like they’ve jumped straight off a Farrow & Ball paint chart. £799, 63 Amwell Street, EC1R freddiegrubb.com

Health & fitness news By Kari Colmans

Face value EDITOR'S PICK

With an LA-based celebrity following including Johnny Depp and Daphne Guinness, clinical beauty brand Face Place has made it across the pond. With a new space in Rosewood London’s Sense Spa, the Signature Facial Treatment (there is only one order of the day, dahling) is designed for both men and women. The no-frills facial begins with a cleanse, and is followed by a serious pore extraction (you may be sneezing, but it’s so satisfying) and a trademark galvanic current mask. Designed to deliver results from deep within the skin’s layers, it only really uses vitamin C and anti-inflammatory zinc to get right into the dermis and blast out those nasties. You'll leave feeling three stone lighter. Face Place Signature Treatment, 75 minutes £130, 252 High Holborn, WC1V

Eat, move, bloom, repeat Not just your average PT, local resident Louise Randall founded Eat Move Bloom to focus solely on pre- and post-natal exercise and nutrition. As well as helping women to prepare their bodies for labour by lengthening and strengthening the muscles used most during childbirth, she will then assist with a tailored post-natal recovery plan to get you feeling like you again.

£600, Gucci

Cool runnings To celebrate the anniversary of the opening of Harrods Shoe Heaven last year, 20 top designers have gone all guns blazing to come up with their own limitededition trainers as part of an exclusive Catch Me if You Can collection. Choose from candy pink, jewel-sprinkled Pradas, monogram-printed Guccis, furry Nicholas Kirkwoods and modern, geometric Balenciagas to make a statement, or more subtle models by Jimmy Choo and Charlotte Olympia for everyday wear. Available now, harrods.com £650, Prada

POA, eatmovebloom.co.uk

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Positive Measures Breast cancer affects 1 out of 8 women at some point during their lifetime. Mr Jason Saunders discusses the signs, symptoms and risk factors involved with the condition

Breast cancer is the most common cancer in the UK with around 50,000 people diagnosed each year, making it a high profile and emotive subject for many people. In the UK, 1 in 8 women will develop breast cancer in their lifetime. It can affect men, but that is comparably rare – around 350 cases per year in the UK. There have been major advances in diagnosis and treatment, which have almost halved the death rate since the 1980’s. Now, 8 out of 10 women survive their disease more than 10 years and two thirds will survive beyond 20 years. Nevertheless, despite these impressive statistics around 12,000 people still die from breast cancer each year.

Risk factors

Possible symptoms and signs of cancer may include: • a lump in your breast • a change in the skin of your breast • a change in the size and shape of your breast • a change in your nipple, drawing in or discharge • breast pain • a lump in your armpit

A doctor should be consulted early in all of these cases as finding a breast cancer earlier will make it more treatable.

Assessment

meet the The two most influential factors Your GP may refer you to specialist increasing your risk are being a one-stop clinic, where a female and getting older, with clinical examination by a Mr Jason Saunders is a Consultant General over 80% of cases occurring breast specialist can be Surgeon specialising in Breast and Oncoplastic in women over the age of combined with imaging tests Surgery. He underwent his medical education 50. A third risk factor is (mammography, ultrasound at the University of Cambridge and at St significant family history scan) and a biopsy (needle Bartholomews Hospital Medical College. – although only 5% of all test) as appropriate. These Appointed as a consultant in 2009, he practices breast cancer is thought to tests are all done in the at Barts Health NHS Trust. His main interests be associated with a faulty same clinic visit to ensure a are in the rapid assessment and early detection BRCA1 or BRCA2 gene. If you rapid diagnosis. and treatment of breast cancer and all aspects of are found to be positive for the benign breast disease. gene mutation, there are strategies to reduce risk. Maintaining a healthy Nowadays, treatment is becoming weight, keeping fit and active and more holistic, individualised and decreasing alcohol intake are all positive decided by a multidisciplinary team measures you can make to your lifestyle that approach. There are many types of breast lower your risk of breast cancer. cancer but a broad overall treatment may include: surgery, chemotherapy, hormone therapy, radiotherapy, or combinations thereof. Cosmetic appearance and fertility Early diagnosis is important in treating breast cancer, as this are issues that also inform treatment options. Survival rates is shown to be associated with a more favourable outcome. are improving and by encouraging awareness and earlier Despite efforts of charities and the NHS, a recent study presentation, we can make further strides towards reducing revealed almost half of over 70’s were unable to identify a the impact of this disease. breast cancer symptom. Of course, breast symptoms are common and most women will have a benign (non-cancerous) For further information or if you would like to arrange an cause, but even so there is stress and psychological burden. appointment at The Wellington Hospital, please contact the Therefore, raising awareness of symptoms hopefully will Enquiry Helpline on 020 7483 5000 or visit improve outcomes, through early consultation and assessment. thewellingtonhospital.com

Treatment

Symptoms and signs

health promotion

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Snax box Any bar worth its Hawaiian sea salt knows that a liquid lunch is best served with spiced hummus and sumac on the side. Hot on the heels of its Surrealisminspired cocktail menu, Artesian at The Langham has introduced a food offering to match. Executive chef Chris King has consulted with Michel Roux Jr. to create SNAX, a selection of playful sharing plates to complement the bizarrely named drinks (another You’re so Gangsta, anyone?). The tapas dishes are also obscurely titled, so alongside the Cornish oysters with truffle mignonette you’ll find things like ‘hearts of palm, vadouvan curry, dates’. And for a dessert that's a bit outside the box there's always the Japanese bloody Mary macarons. Artesian at The Langham, London, 1c Portland Place, W1B, london.langhamhotels.co.uk

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Photography by Rita Platts

A cut above There’s no denying that north-west London suburb Kentish Town has been busy beefing up its selection of foodie havens this year. The latest ‘does what it says on the tin’ outpost to encroach on Dirty Burger/Pizza East turf is Beef & Brew, offering a modern alternative to the traditional British steak house. The brainchild of Angela Hartnett protégé Jessica Simmons, the menu shies away from loins, ribs and fillets, instead embracing rumps, flat irons and onglets, while the drinks list is beer focused, showcasing the best of the British brewing scene. 323 Kentish Town Road, NW5 beef-and-brew.co.uk

Food & drink news By Kari Colmans

Village people We must have missed the Portman Village memo, because all of a sudden, we can’t keep up with the number of openings. A stone’s throw from the new Zetter Townhouse, Bernardi’s is cooking up paredback Italian cuisine (think tarragon gnocchi with rabbit ragu) while just a few doors down, Basque grill Lurra is preparing the coal for its signature whole turbot.

EDITOR'S PICK

Ginger and pink Yummy-mummy favourite and suppliers of the best homemade peanut butter on the planet Ginger & White will be showing its true colours this October for Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Coffee mornings and book signings are lined up to help raise money for the Future Dreams’ Haven House appeal. Due to open in the new King’s Cross development, the house will provide breast cancer patients from 14 London NHS hospitals with tailored care plans. If you can’t attend an event, show your support by purchasing a pink cupcake, with 20 per cent of the cost going to the appeal. Hampstead: 4a-5a Perrins Court, NW3 Belsize Park: 2 England’s Lane, NW3 gingerandwhite.com

Bernardi’s, 62 Seymour Street, W1H bernardis.co.uk; Lurra, 9 Seymour Place W1H, lurra.co.uk

Game gone wild After a successful pop-up on Charlotte Street, the Wild Game Company has settled on an address for its first permanent venue, Mac & Wild. Head to nearby Titchfield Street and you’ll be immediately transported to the Scottish highlands for a feast of venison tartare, cured and smoked scallops and horseradish toffee, among other innovative game and seafood concoctions. The rustic décor will appeal to any tartannuts, while downstairs the ‘wall of meat’ will have carnivores going gaga. 65 Great Titchfield Street, W1W macandwild.co.uk

food&drink

Restaurant review

Saturday Night Fever Tuna tartare cigars, gold-dusted terrines and club tunes – Lauren Romano wonders whether London is ready for Hotel Chantelle 

here are some that mourn the days when you could book a table at a restaurant and expect to turn up and be presented with an à la carte menu, the perusing of which didn’t require a 3G signal to look up miscellaneous ingredients. Back in those dark ages, there were no pop-ups to contend with and the ubiquitous noreservations policy had yet to become the decree of the day. But that was then and, as far as its culinary scene is concerned, London threw the rule book out of the window long ago. That said, there’s been mixed feelings about the recently opened Hotel Chantelle, tucked behind Selfridges above the Bonbonniere night club. It’s an export from America, the brainchild of ex-trader turned chef Seth Levine – and in typical yank style, subtlety is not on the menu. The loud music and resident DJ has been a bone of contention for some; the novelty factor of the food (I’m looking at you tuna tartare cigar with your billowing dry ice) has been another. There have been digs at the restaurant’s diminutive dimensions too. Arriving with lowered expectations and the belief that anything labelled ‘nightlife concept’ wasn’t really my thing, I was prepared to be underwhelmed. Admittedly Hotel Chantelle might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but I rather enjoyed it. True, the indoor space is a bit compact, although there’s a balcony and an outdoor terrace with an impressive living wall of plants. In the (highly-likely) event that you visit on a cold and drizzly evening, however, you do run the risk of sitting down for dinner with an audience of loitering drinkers hovering with their glasses of fizz, reluctant to brave the outdoors. It’s not ideal, but after a Shadrach – a fruity blend of Vodka, strawberry and balsamic reduction – which arrives flamboyantly and only a paper umbrella away from being a Del Boy classic, I’m willing to let the slight invasion of space slide and embrace the fun. The menu is a fusion of American and French. The surf and turf (wagyu carpaccio, diver scallops tartare and caviar vinaigrette) is a delicate, prettily presented slate of food. The trio of foie gras that follows is moreish,

Trio of foie gras

I’m willing to let the slight invasion of space slide and embrace the fun

if a little on the rich side, served stuffed in a brioche doughnut, seared and as a gold-dusted terrine. Not that that put me off my chicken and waffles, which can only be described as the stuff of childhood culinary dreams: chicken nugget lollipops wrapped in maple syrup candyfloss served with a pipette of cola drizzle for an extra sugar rush. Moving on from the small plates (which, be warned, come with not-so small price tags) I go for the drunken chicken parmesan. “It’s the biggest breast you’ve ever seen!” the waiter forewarns me, and he’s not exaggerating, the cut is verging on caveman sized. I find when anything is covered with a vodka tomato sauce and smothered in melted mozzarella and parmesan, though, you really can’t go wrong. On reflection, the sides of truffle mac ‘n cheese and the eggy grilled asparagus madame, although faultless, were probably an indulgence too far. My dining companion’s succulently grilled Iberico pork with roasted beets and shards of apple and bacon glass brittle is a more refined affair. We finish with a molten chocolate cake that erupts with peanut-butter lava, as the DJ cranks up the volume. The night is young and the party is just getting started as I sneak off. I don’t think anything’s been lost in translation in Hotel Chantelle’s move to London, but even if our capital is being hailed as the next city that never sleeps, after all that food I need 40 winks. 23 Orchard Street, W1H, hotelchantelle.com/london

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NOW RECRUITING

If you think being a secret agent is about sipping cocktails on a private island all day, you’d be right.

It’s really no secret that we’re all about impeccable service at Small Luxury Hotels of the World. That’s why we’re looking for a further 20 mystery inspectors to embark on free undercover missions at our 520 luxury hotels around the world. It’s not a tough job, but someone’s got to do it. Apply now at slh.com/mi

the art of TRAVEL Pop by As the National Museum of Modern Art welcomes the Warhol Unlimited exhibition to Paris this month, bringing the Shadows series to Europe for the first time, Dorchester Collection’s Le Meurice is paying homage to the acclaimed artist and former guest with a Pop Art package in his honour. Taking reference from the his halcyon days, it encompasses an American breakfast; a lunch or dinner including a signature hamburger, inspired by Warhol’s “I just finished eating a hamburger” video or some colourful Pop Art choux pastries; plus two skip the queue tickets and a catalogue. As Warhol would say: “Art is what you can get away with.” The Pop Art package at Le Meurice is available from 2 October – 7 February 2016 to coincide with exhibition dates. Prices from €1,040 for a superior room, dorchestercollection.com

Photo by Guillaume de Laubier

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Travel news By Ellen Millard

Budapest

HOTSPOT

Explore Hungary’s artisanal offerings at the Café Budapest Contemporary Arts Festival Spread across the city, Budapest’s annual contemporary arts festival, Café Budapest, offers a creative way to explore the Hungarian capital. Presenting the best local music, literature, theatre and design, the festival makes for a unique tour of the city with 205 events held at 47 different venues dotted across both banks of the Danube. Elsewhere, marvel at the country’s expansive art collection at the Royal Palace, where four floors are dedicated to the Hungarian National Gallery, before stopping off at the Chain Bridge to take in impressive views of the river that separates Buda from Pest. Round off your trip with a well-deserved soak in one of 17 thermal spring pools at the largest medicinal baths in Europe no less, the Széchenyi Baths.

Why

Rumoured to have been the inspiration behind Wes Anderson’s Golden Globe winner The Grand Budapest Hotel, Corinthia Hotel Budapest has long been a destination for celebrities and is said to have been the guesthouse of choice for Ella Fitzgerald, Sean Connery and Isabella Rossellini. Now a landmark in its own right, take in the hotel’s extraordinary glass atrium and neo-classical architecture before turning your attention to the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site Andrássy Avenue. Or, if the less than balmy temperatures leave you beating a hasty retreat back to base camp, tuck into the hotel's traditional Hungarian cuisine and warm up with a dip in the 15-metre pool.

stay

From £180 a night, corinthia.com

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Star struck

Lone ranger If you fancy yourself as the next Steve Irwin, head to the Seychelles where Raffles Praslin has just launched a Ranger for a Day programme. In partnership with the Seychelles National Parks Authority the hotel hopes to promote environmental wellbeing through a tour of the neighbouring island, Curieuse, home to a nature reserve usually off-limits to visitors. Expect to come face-to-face with giant tortoises, explore birds’ nests and learn about lemon shark tagging, all the while taking in the breathtaking setting, complete with deserted beaches and crystal clear ocean. Ranger for a Day, from £125 per person raffles.com/praslin

Tree’s a crowd Explore new heights without the air miles at the Treehouse Hotel, where guests stay in apartments tucked into the canopy of an arbour located in the 600-acre Port Lympne Wild Animal and Safari Reserve in Kent. With interiors designed by Tara Bernerd and a private balcony offering 26-mile views of the English Channel it will be hard to prise yourself away, not that you have to venture very far; the surrounding reserve means you can experience an African-style safari right on your doorstep.

Photos by Luke Foreman

Double Dutch To commemorate artist Vincent Van Gogh, the city of Amsterdam has been pulling out all the stops with a series of exhibitions to mark 125 years since his death. Getting into the spirit of things, the Conservatorium Hotel has partnered with the Van Gogh Museum to offer a two-night package that includes a tour of the museum and a book of Van Gogh’s most well-known works. Guests can also avoid the crowds by arranging a private after-hours visit.

From £300 a night aspinalfoundation.org

 SHORT HAUL 

Northern delights Those wanting to catch a glimpse of the northern lights without the obligatory campfire excursion should book a trip to Ion Hotel. Its northern lights bar offers you the chance to witness the natural wonder through floor-to-ceiling windows that enable stunning views of the surrounding landscape, glass of wine in hand. During the day discover Reykjavik, less than an hour’s drive from the hotel, or explore the nearby Thingvellir National Park, home to the largest lake in Iceland. From £184 a night, ioniceland.is

 long HAUL 

Jeep safari Swot up on your astronomical know-how at the Little Nell in Aspen, where an adventure concierge and an astronomy expert are on hand to sweep you off on a stargazing jeep tour. Find out about the latest goings-on up above with an opportunity to see shooting stars, meteor showers and constellations. Back at the hotel, spare yourself neck cramp by catching up on 40 winks in the recently refurbished rooms, conceived by fashion designer Holly Fulton. £282 a night, thelittlenell.com

From £395 a night conservatoriumhotel.com

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Sky High Zoe Strimpel picks the best places to stay, shop and eat in Hong Kong 

labs of glass and steel reach skyward, housing the hundreds of banks, brokers and other financial services of Asia’s biggest money hub. Suited men and women, of which about ten per cent are Caucasian expats, hurry up and down, while Chinese shoppers queue with suitcases outside the city’s multiple, mansion-sized European luxury shops. Bulgari alone has ten outlets, including a branch on Canton Road, Kowloon – the city’s more industrial island. The shop is full when I drop in, with a steady stream of shoppers traipsing over the sanded geometric wood flooring, several taking a detour to an exclusive Bulgari chocolate boutique selling Japanese made Il Cioccolato truffles in flavours such as earl grey, bergamot and melon salt. They are delicious and almost (almost) worth making the trip for. But veer off down a little alley nearby (everywhere in Hong Kong is near an alley) and the designer suits give way to shouting noodle sellers, dried-fish hawkers and strange little curio shops. Where its competitor Singapore provides a sanitised business landscape so strictly regulated that chewing gum is illegal, Hong Kong lets you have it both ways: the furious work ethic and glossy life of global finance and the ragged, authentic experience of China. For instance, on my visit, draughts of Moët in the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar on Connaught Road are followed by little red bean lotus cakes and peanut cookies bought from street vendors in the subterranean, atmospheric streets of Wan Chai, with its sex shops and rowdy bars. Shopping, especially luxury shopping, is a major interest in Asia. And of all the Asian centres of retail, Hong Kong is number one. It is a city whose public centrepieces, like the Pacific Place and Times Square malls, are all about the god of consumer goods. Thus most tourists – who are Chinese – go

It is a city whose public centrepieces, like the Pacific Place and Times Square malls, are all about the god of consumer goods

just for that reason. The hegemony of shopping can mean that trying to find culture, like curation of its British colonial past in museums or preserved buildings, is a struggle. So after a day or so looking around for the impressive historical showcases found so easily in Bangkok, Seoul and Singapore, in national history museums and gigantic temples, it sank in. Hong Kong is for the part of you that burns with appetite: for amazing gadgets, beautiful designer clothes, extravagant new designs, rooftop champagne, yacht parties and the gratification of opulent signature hotels (Hong Kong’s Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons, Peninsula and Shangri-La). I pass my stay at the newly-opened Dorsett Kwun Tong, crammed with velvet sofas, chandeliers and staggering views from my room on the 29th floor. Hong Kong is a big city, divided into two main chunks – Hong Kong (known by locals as ‘the island’) and Kowloon (bigger than Hong Kong and more industrial, divided into east and west). Whether you’re stopping on your way somewhere else, or fancy an Asian minibreak, the city is overspilling with treats, as long as you give yourself the green light to spend, taste and try. Here’s where to do it…

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stay The Peninsula, Salisbury Road This is the Peninsula group’s flagship property, the oldest hotel in Hong Kong and an important part of the city’s dramatic waterfront skyline. Expect pure, unadulterated luxury. The flourish we like best is the flight-seeing tour – a helicopter show-round launched from the hotel’s own pad on the 30th floor that comes with (or without) dining and spa. Rooms from around £400 a night. To enquire about the helicopter tour, email diningphk@peninsula.com peninsula.com/hongkong

Dorsett Kwun Tong, Hung To Road Glitzy but affordable, this new hotel in the burgeoning business district of East Kowloon offers mostly straight-shooting luxury with the odd quirky touch – gaudy chandelier bed side lamps and opulent mosaicpatterned velvet sofas, for instance. Somewhat scary views are to be had from the hotel’s uppermost floors – rushing highways and immense housing blocks – but it’s dramatic and gritty (in a good way). Rooms from around £120 a night dorsetthotels.com/hongkong/kwuntong

The Upper House, Pacific Place, Queensway Where art world insiders, design impresarios and the most discerning moneyed millennials go, the Upper House offers dreamy views of the Kowloonside harbour from pristine rooms by renowned architect Andre Fu. If natural hues, bamboo, sleek rock and giant windows are your thing, combined with downstairs access to one of Asia’s best shopping meccas, Pacific Place, then the Upper House is for you. Rooms from around £410 a night, upperhouse.com

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PMQ exterior

shop

Artisanal jewellery at Obellery

Hollywood Road This is the place to head for fine Chinese antiques and the odd bargain gem. Hollywood Road’s dealers operate at the top of the trade and are renowned for their imperial Chinese goods. Start with one of the best-known dealers, K.Y. Fine Art at 142 Hollywood Road, which is particularly well-known for its calligraphy and ceramics collection. kyfineart.com

PMQ, Aberdeen Street This six-floor barracks devoted to the finest culinary, interiors, fashion, gadgets and art worlds was an old Hong Kong police headquarters that housed married officers and their families. Oozing heritage chic, PMQ is perched in Mid-Levels, the city’s coolest and most expensive district (it’s also home to the longest covered outdoor escalator in the world). Among boutiques and pop-up eateries head for Spanish restaurant Vasco on the top floor, the minimalist local Gong Fu teahouse, artisanal jeweller Obellery and homeware studio Cream Art. pmq.org.hk

Times Square, Causeway Bay A mecca of luxury retail in the form of a high-rise, Times Square holds a soft spot in Hong Kong’s heart as the city’s first vertical mall. Located in Causeway Bay, not far from Wan Chai and a bustling market, Times Square has a big Lane Crawford (it's also worth checking out the luxury department store's flagship at ifc mall, with its newly refurbished womenswear and fine jewllery departments) and several other floors devoted to outlets of Sonia Rykiel, Salvatore Ferragamo, Mulberry and Chanel. timessquare.com.hk

Lane Crawford, at ifc mall

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eat Celebrity Cuisine at Lan Kwai Fong Hotel, Kau U Fong Despite its unpromising name, this restaurant serves award-winning Cantonese dishes in a fashionable part of town. Expect formality and hospitality as chef Cheng serves up a bewildering array of dim sum, pork and even a surprisingly tasty crispy chicken stuffed with birds nest (a delicacy involving rice noodles mixed with a special kind of avarian saliva). If you want to eat like an imperial prince or princess, this is the place. lankwaifonghotel.com.hk

Vasco, PMQ Aside from the fact that it has an impossibly good-looking trio of chefs at the helm, led by Paolo Casagrande formerly of the two Michelin-starred Lasarte in Barcelona, Vasco appeals because it represents hipster luxe, Hong Kong style. The food is serious – so serious that children under 13 aren’t really encouraged to go – and the décor is a perfectly pitched marriage between minimalism, heritage and quirkiness. There are extravagant tasting menus as well as à la carte, which feature lightly charcoal-smoked oysters with soft onion cream, small squid ragout and crispy bread and glazed organic pig trotters stuffed with truffle onion. Spain never looked so good so far away. vasco.com.hk

Image courtesy of Four Seasons

Lung King Heen, Four Seasons, Finance Street The Four Seasons Hong Kong is a culinary palace, but its three Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant, glittering with crystal and silver, is the absolute must. We especially like the dim sum, which is such an important part of weekend life in the city – and here it features the likes of baked whole abalone puff with diced chicken and pan-fried taro pudding with airdried meat in XO chilli sauce. fourseasons.com

Image courtesy of Four Seasons

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Den

Dragonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Annabella Biziou immerses herself in tales of dragons and mermaids on a voyage to the forgotten islands of Indonesia ď&#x192;ľ

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or the first time all day, we set foot on dry land. It’s an island; little more than a patch of sand with a few tufty weeds and a single, twisted old tree at its centre, at the top of which sits a white cockatoo. The sand is pastel pink where the water laps, tinted by crushed red coral from a nearby reef. Robinson Crusoe didn’t have it so bad, I think, as the clouds shift and a rainbow beams down over the peaks of the neighbouring island. The mysterious Komodo National Park is our playground for the next few days, a corner of Indonesia cast east from Bali where volcanic isles shift from lush to rocky with the seasons and the heat-smudged horizon is barely discernible from the sky. Our base is Alexa, a traditional Indonesian-built phinisi yacht with just one guest cabin, chartered through Indonesia Yacht Charter. She’s the only vessel of her kind here to boast such a level of intimacy, gliding through waves with the ease of a swan and an elegance that belies her past. Formerly used to ferry spices between the remote islands of the Indonesian archipelago, Alexa’s history still feels tangible, despite a recent facelift under the eye of Russian owner and expert in interior design Veronika Blomgren. Alexa is built with romance in mind; interiors draped in flowing white fabrics, aged teak decking, a treasure chest of Balinese antiques and contemporary artwork. We’re spoilt by seven crew; the original captain from Alexa’s cargo days, a cruise director who tailors our bespoke itinerary, a personal chef and a massage therapist, who sets up shop at the drop of a hat. Keen to live up to Alexa’s romanticism, we fully intend to play Titanic’s Rose and Jack, but there’s simply too much to do: diving through reefs with the shadow of manta rays overhead, kayaking amid thick mangroves, cruising around on a slick speedboat, picnicking on deserted shores beside a bonfire. One morning, we hike at first light to a grassy summit, where dawn envelops us in a cool, pallid light. Far below, Alexa floats on a Turner-esque canvas of rose and sepia. From here, she looks like a model ship in a bottle, little bigger than a matchstick. We slink past the forked tongues and ghostly eyes of Komodo dragons, the largest of all reptiles, respected by locals who believe they descend from a dragon princess. It isn’t hard to get lost in mythology in these parts; aside from the dragons, we’re told that the legend of the mermaid began with Nyai Roro Kidul, the spirit Queen of the Southern Seas of Java. So pervasive is the myth that wearing green, said to be her favourite colour, is discouraged along the south coast of Java lest it should tempt her fury. We may not be quite

We slink past the forked tongues and ghostly eyes of Komodo dragons, the largest of all reptiles

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renowned ikat textiles. While the festival is certainly less violent than it once was, bloodshed remains an important element as it’s believed to purify the land and ensure a fruitful harvest. And indeed, it’s said that there were once headhunters here too. These days though, you’re more likely to lose your head in a state of blissful relaxation at Nihi Oka, the resort’s idyllic destination spa. But to get here, you have to earn it. A trek up gentle hills, through rice paddies flanked with thick forest leads us past a local village made up of thatched huts, each with a high roof for accommodating ancestral spirits and an open basement for livestock. In the distance, the higher peaks reach into whirls of cloud. We stop to barter over local fabrics, the villagers eyeing us with a mixture of bemusement and curiosity, puppies and piglets running to and fro between our feet and a mud bath under the trees. When we eventually descend the coconut palm-lined path to Nihi Oka, we find reward for our efforts; a huge health conscious breakfast of chia pudding, avocado on flaxseed toast and coconut spirulina smoothies laid out on a teak platform overlooking a sandy cove. The day here is spent in a private cocoon for two with a daybed beside the ocean, a dining area and massage tables where spa therapists unroll a series of treatments – scrubs, wraps, hair smoothies – for as long as we like. Later, floating downriver on a paddleboard between coiled mangroves and a herd of bathing water buffaloes, I have a sudden fit of panic. It’s the realisation that I’ve thought of virtually nothing at all since I’ve arrived; everything here is hinged on the moment, sewn to landscapes bathed in an ethereal golden glow. Somehow, as if the clouds of salt spray have found their way inside my head, my mind is quiet. And surely that, if nothing else, is proof that these forgotten islands are worth rediscovering.

The day here is spent in a private cocoon for two with a daybed beside the ocean

in her territory, but back onboard, I’m relieved to find that the few artful hints of colour on Alexa’s white interiors are pastel blues and caramels. Eventually, Alexa sets a southern course and deposits us on a rough shoreline on the wild, lost island of Sumba, where we wade onto a wedge of beach sandwiched between creeping jungle and pounding surf. Overlooked by Portuguese explorer António de Abreu when he sailed past in 1512, and later by Venetian Antonio Pigafetta who misplaced it on a map, Sumba carried on with little interruption from the outside world, save for a spot of trade, mostly with the island’s stocky horses. Nowadays their thundering hooves can be heard on a beach fronting the only luxury hotel on the island, Nihiwatu. Once little more than a shack on a beach, Nihiwatu has blossomed into a serious contender for the world’s most opulent beach retreat, complete with huge villas built to mirror the style of the local villages, though the four poster king-size beds, infinity plunge pools and private butlers are a welcome giveaway. Recent additions following the dramatic overhaul include a palatial master residence and a tree house, as well as the new Marangga wave front villas for couples, with extra sheltered verandas overlooking the surf. The island itself is very much set in the past, with the locals embracing a combination of Christianity and an animistic Marapu belief system. They live by the word of shamans, perform animal sacrifices and megalithic burials and hold an annual festival, Pasola, in which opposing clans hurl spears at one another on horseback. The significance of Pasola is represented across the island in art and sculpture and makes up the majority of prints on Sumba’s

 Need to know  Alexa sails to Komodo National Park from Labuan Bajo in Flores, with daily internal flights from Bali alexaprivatecruises.com Nihiwatu can be reached with daily internal flights to Sumba from Bali, nihiwatu.com Indonesia Yacht Charter offers a seven-night Komodo National Park and Sumba itinerary from £5,265 per person including three nights onboard Alexa, two nights at Nihiwatu, two nights in Bali, internal flights, transfers and international flights from London, indonesia-yacht-charter.com

Opening page: Alexa, photography by Oli Anderson This page, clockwise from top left: Alexa; spa safari at Nihiwatu; villa at Nihiwatu; Sumba horse races at Nihiwatu, all photography by Oli Anderson

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P R O P E RT Y Showcasing the finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Elegant & exclusive The latest prime properties

Image courtesy of Aston Chase

NO.1 For highest prices achieved in

MARYLEBONE When making the decision to sell one of your most valuable assets you naturally want first class advice with exceptional results. With over 100 years of local knowledge and a global network of 370 offices across 55 countries we will find the right buyer for your home and get you the results you expect.

For a free market appraisal of your property call us today on 020 3551 2777 55 Baker Street, London W1U 8EW | KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone

Clifton Villas, Little Venice W9 Beautifully presented stucco fronted house in the heart of Little Venice This five bedroom villa offers fantastic lateral living accommodation, secluded south east facing rear and front gardens. The house is situated behind a gated wall and located only a few seconds walk to the Regent's Canal and beside the world famous Clifton Nurseries. 5 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, drawing room, sitting room, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, front and rear garden. Approximately 293 sq m (3,150 sq ft). Freehold

Guide price: £5,950,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/st-johns-wood stjohnswood@knightfrank.com 020 7586 2777

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/SJW100213

11 Clifton Villas - Vantage October 2015 -v2

07/09/2015 12:44:55

College Mansions, Queen's Park NW6 This lateral apartment is situated on the first floor of a late Victorian Mansion Block An open planned three bedroom apartment situated in the heart of Queen's Park. The flat provides 3 bedrooms, 2 large reception rooms, kitchen and bathroom. The high ceilings and traditional features make this apartment particularly impressive. EPC: C. Approximately 128.2 sq m (1,380 sq ft). Share of Freehold

Guide price: £1,050,000

KnightFrank.co.uk/queenspark queenspark@knightfrank.com 0208 022 5466

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

KnightFrank.co.uk/QPK150129

Vantage - October - Queen's Park

08/09/2015 17:07:02

Chevening Road, Queen's Park NW6 A traditional end of terrace freehold house with attractive walled garden This exceptionally wide period house benefits from an abundance of character. Its position on the end of a terrace allows for wider than average proportions throughout and plenty of room for formal entertaining and ample family space. 6 bedrooms, 3 reception rooms, 2 bathrooms and garden. EPC: E. Approximately 215 sq m (2,314 sq ft). Freehold

Guide price: £2,550,000 KnightFrank.co.uk/QPK150072

KnightFrank.co.uk/queenspark queenspark@knightfrank.com 0208 022 5466

@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk

Vantage - October - Queen's Park

08/09/2015 17:07:02

Introducing

Super Prime Lettings

Left to right – Georgina Rusling, Clare Foster, Tacita Rolls, Stevie Walmesley, Tom Smith, Emily Englander, Louise Sergeant, John Humphris, Rahim Najak, Isobel Pickering, Sophie Woolfenden (absent)

Q: How have you put the team together?

Knight Frank launches their new look Super Prime Lettings Team Knight Frank has unveiled the line-up of their new, dedicated Super Prime Lettings Team led by Tom Smith. After a detailed review of both their existing business model and those of their competitors they have launched what they believe will provide the optimum level of service to both their clients and applicants alike. We spoke to Tom to try and understand more about their new initiative and the wider team.

CT432_Spread_London_Mag_RUNWILD.indd All Pages

A: Whilst this is a “new team” we haven’t needed to externally recruit. It’s more a re-structuring of what we already have. “The right people in the right seats” to quote from Good to Great. We have understood the importance of local knowledge; so the team consists of one designated super prime expert from the 11 offices and then myself overseeing the initiative. Combined, this team has the ability to draw upon 130 years’ worth of experience. We have identified the key offices that are most regularly involved in super prime searches (what we mean by super prime internally is transactions at or property listings of £5,000 per week or above). Typically those offices located around the Parks namely Belgravia, Knightsbridge, South Kensington, Chelsea, Kensington, Notting Hill, Hyde Park, Marylebone, Mayfair, St John’s Wood and Hampstead, although of course some searches will take us to areas outside this remit where Knight Frank still has excellent coverage and market share.

Property Lettings Q: And what will your role be within the team? A: My role will be to oversee this team and most importantly to combine the local knowledge with the wider mechanics of the overall super prime market. This is a market that is essentially product led so it is important when giving advice to both clients and applicants to be in a position to offer this combination. It is this combination that will differentiate us from other agencies in the market. Alongside this I will be acting as a single point of contact and conducting all searches for applicants with rents of £500,000 per annum and above. We recognise that a single point of contact is vitally important both externally in the market for applicants or their retained search agents but also internally bringing together the extensive Knight Frank service lines, for example, our International Desks (Russian, Chinese, Indian, Middle Eastern), Luxury residential developments, Prime Central London Sales and those involved in our wider Global wealth strategy.

Grosvenor Crescent, Belgravia SW1 Guide price: £5,000 per week

Q: Why the new initiative? A: We have seen a 182% increase in applicant registrations over £5,000 per week in the second quarter of this year compared to the same quarter last year. With the right team and the right initiative we feel we are well placed to take advantage of this increase in activity for the benefit of our clients. This builds on the work that we have already been doing at super prime level. Last year was our best yet but we are always looking at ways we can improve.

Holland Villas Road, Kensington W14 Guide price: £12,000 per week

Q: Have you seen any changes in the Super Prime Lettings market over the last 12 months? A: There has always been demand from tenants for properties at this level of rent but the biggest hurdle has previously been finding properties on the rental market of the right calibre matching these tenants’ uncompromising expectations. Over the last 12 – 18 months, in what has been perceived to be a slower sales market, some sellers have changed direction and have looked at the possibility of becoming a Landlord. This has greatly improved the supply of quality super prime properties available to rent. This shows that if the product is there and more akin to a sale finish then there are super prime applicants more than happy to rent as a lifestyle choice. Over the last five years or so we have certainly seen the profile of a super prime tenant moving away from the Corporate in favour of the International high net worth individual. Tom Smith Head of Super Prime Lettings tom.smith@knightfrank.com 020 7881 7730

Avenue Road, St John’s Wood NW8 Guide price: £20,000 per week

Mulberry Walk, Chelsea SW3 Guide price: £9,500 per week

KnightFrank.co.uk/lettings @KnightFrank

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hot property

Head for the Hill

Primrose Hill, NW3 GUIDE PRICE: ÂŁ9,750,000

property

Situated within the leafy setting of Wadham Gardens, this detached, double-fronted home offers nine bedrooms coupled with substantial living accommodation arranged over three floors. The only house in the road to be set behind a carriage driveway, the property boasts well-proportioned entertaining spaces, ideally configured for family life. The ground floor comprises of a drawing room, reception room and dining room situated off the main reception hall, as well as a bright and airy morning room that opens out onto a conservatory overlooking the 55ft rear garden. Upstairs, the principle suite encompasses a dressing room, sitting area and bathroom. Within easy reach of Swiss Cottage and St John’s Wood Underground Stations, the property has excellent transport links and is close to some of the area’s most sought-after schools, as well as the amenities of Primrose Hill and St John’s Wood. For more information contact Aston Chase, 69-71 Park Road, Regent's Park, NW1, 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com

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E X P E R T S AT P L AC E L E T T I N G

There is an art to putting things together properly, to the bespoke needs of each individual. At Aston Chase we understand that paying close attention to detail is one of the hallmarks of excellent service. Our expertise honed in lettings and property management over the last 30 years makes us adept at carefully matching discerning tenants with quality properties and providing a service that’s second to none. We call this service ‘Letiquette.’ Our meticulous approach ensures that whether you’re a Landlord or a Tenant, everything will be perfectly in place for you. Letiquette — The Art of Letting. 6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D | L O N D O N | N W 1 6 X U | T + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 7 2 4 4 724 | A S T O N C H A S E.C OM

WORONZOW ROAD ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8 FREEHOLD GUIDE PRICE £4,650,000 JOINT SOLE AGENT

A semi-detached period house (253sq m/ 2,724sq ft) which has recently undergone a complete programme of refurbishment and now offers a striking contemporary interior with a newly created lower ground floor. Woronzow Road is a quiet and highly sought after street on the East side of St John’s Wood. It is also within a short walk to both St John’s Wood High Street and Underground Station (Jubilee Line) and Regent’s Park is also only moments away.

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Principal bedroom with en-suite bathroom, 3 further bedrooms, family bathroom, guest/staff bedroom with en-suite shower room, 2 reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast room, guest cloakroom, utility room, Sonos sound system, Lutron lighting, underfloor heating, feature staircase, courtyard garden, front garden. EPC=E.

astonchase.com

BRUNSWICK PLACE REGENT’S PARK NW1 CROWN ESTATE LEASE £8,950,000 SOLE AGENT

6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D LO N D O N N W 1 6XU 020 7 7 24 47 24

An extensively refurbished beautiful Nash residence, providing approximately 4,600sq ft of family accommodation enviably located only moments from the beautiful open spaces of Regent's Park and the exclusive resident-only gardens of Park Square West. Brunswick Place is conveniently positioned within easy distance of St John’s Wood, Marylebone Village, the West End and Regent's Park Underground Station (Bakerloo Line).

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Principal bedroom with en-suite bathroom & dressing room, 4 further bedrooms, (2 with en-suite bathrooms, 2 with en-suite shower rooms), reception hall, drawing room, dining room, family/media room, kitchen/breakfast room, utility room, gym, guest cloakroom, underfloor heating, air conditioning, Sonos music system throughout, Rako intelligent lighting system, CCTV, landscaped front courtyard garden, additional courtyard space, balcony, resident’s parking, exclusive resident’s garden of Regent’s Park.

ABBEY GARDENS ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8 FREEHOLD £4,250,000 SOLE AGENT

A wider than average Grade ll Listed house (223sq m/2,410sq ft), situated in this extremely popular quiet tree lined road. The house is presented in good condition, featuring a delightful private garden and off street parking for two cars. Abbey Gardens is located on the West side of St John’s Wood, close to Violet Hill Park, The American School in London and both St John’s Wood High Street and Underground Station (Jubilee Line).

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Principal bedroom with en-suite bathroom, 3 further bedrooms, family bathroom, kitchen/breakfast room, drawing room, reception room, TV/family room, playroom, dining room, off street parking for 2 cars, roof terrace, 42 ft rear garden, storeroom.

astonchase.com

SPRINGFIELD ROAD ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8 FREEHOLD £9,250,000 JOINT SOLE AGENT

6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D LO N D O N N W 1 6XU 020 7 7 24 47 24

On the market for the first time in 25 years is this substantial, double-fronted detached residence, offering some 4,000sq ft of accommodation over just three floors and occupying a double plot on the south side of this prestigious tree lined road. The house is located close to Loudoun Road, within walking distance of The American School in London, St John's Wood Underground Station (Jubilee Line) and the numerous amenities of St John's Wood High Street.

ACCOMMODATION AND AMENITIES Drawing room, dining room, kitchen/ breakfast room, utility room, study, large entrance hall, guest cloakroom, principal bedroom with en-suite bathroom & his & hers dressing rooms, 6 further bedrooms (2 with en-suite bathrooms), 2 family bathrooms, carriage driveway, double length garage, large south facing rear garden. EPC=E.

Belsize Avenue NW3 £1,750,000

Positioned in the heart of Belsize Park, a spacious ground level garden apartment with secluded patio area and private parking.

1,334 sq ft / 124 sq m 25’ reception 25’ master bedroom 2 further bedrooms Off street parking Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234

South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com

Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com

West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com

Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com

Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com

Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com

www.parkheath.com

Hillfield Road NW6 ÂŁ2,200,000

In a prime residential West Hampstead road, a period four storey family house with a selfcontained lower ground floor two bedroom apartment.

2,527 sq ft / 235 sq m 31â&#x20AC;&#x2122;3 main reception 4 double bedrooms Southerly London skyline views South-facing rear garden

Contact West Hampstead Office 020 7794 7111

South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com

Belsize Park 020 7794 7111 nw3@parkheath.com

West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com

Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com

Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com

Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com

www.parkheath.com

Celebrating over

20 years

of handling quality property

in central and and North-West London

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Arlin

Hundreds sales to

of Millions sixty-one of pounds worth of properties transacted

64%

different

nationalities

of transactions to overseas buyers in the last three years

Tens of thousands of homes rented

One office. One dedicated team

15:22

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A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO ACQUIRE A DETACHED HOUSE LOCATED ON ONE OF THE MOST SOUGHT AFTER ROADS IN ST JOHNS WOOD. THE HOUSE OCCUPIES A GENEROUS CORNER PLOT CLOSE TO AVENUE ROAD AND IS MOMENTS FROM ST JOHN’S WOOD HIGH STREET AND ST. JOHN’S WOOD UNDERGROUND STATION (JUBILEE LINE).

Planning consent has been granted to increase the size of the property to 7,600 sq ft, with the benefit of an elevator and a spa complex with indoor pool. Full details of the consented plans, computer generated images and architects drawings are available from our offices.

CGI

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RHP

ACCOMMODATION 3 reception rooms - Dining room - Kitchen/breakfast room - 6 bedrooms (4 en suite) Shower room - Guest cloakroom - Terrace and south facing garden - Off-street parking for 2 vehicles 3,675 sq ft (342 sq m) - Planning consent to extend to c.706 sq m (7,600 sq ft)

CGI

Joint Sole Agents

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Freehold

Guide Price ÂŁ9.85 million

08/09/2015 17:23

Eyre Court St John’s Wood NW8 £2,250,000 – Share of Freehold

A stunning, newly refurbished three double bedroom, two bathroom apartment (1,639 sq ft / 152 sq m) located on the ground floor of this prestigious portered development in the heart of St John’s Wood. Features include a superb 29’9 double reception room, beautifully appointed kitchen from Nicolas Anthony on Wigmore Street, underfloor heating in all rooms where tiled and heated mirrors in all bathrooms. There is also the benefit of a large basement storage room. Furniture is available by separate negotiation. Eyre Court is a well-established and highly regarded luxury block set behind a deep landscaped garden and approached by way of a carriage driveway. The block is located moments from St Johns Wood High Street and is directly opposite the underground station. Share of freehold plus 900+ years lease. Joint Sole Agent.

Avenue Close St John’s Wood NW8 £2,895,000 – Leasehold

A stunning three double bedroom bright and spacious apartment which has been meticulously renovated to an extremely high standard located within this desirable portered development. The property benefits from replacement windows with a dual outlook onto the manicured communal gardens of which there is direct access from the 20’ reception room, plus first come first served off street parking and an underground storage cage. The development is set within landscaped communal gardens behind a sweeping driveway and is within walking distance of the fashionable shops and restaurants of St John’s Wood, Regent’s Park and St John’s Wood tube station ( Jubilee Line ).

020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com

Penthouse Aberdeen Court W9 £3,150,000 – Leasehold

A newly constructed penthouse apartment in Little Venice (1,935 sq ft / 180 sq m) offering the best of lateral luxury living with breathtaking panoramic views across London. The entire entertaining space is fashioned from beautiful natural wood inspired floor tiling with under-floor heating and boasts unique features such as a spectacular domed dining room and direct lift access. Accommodation comprises three bedrooms, three bathrooms (two en-suite), reception room, dining room, Neil Lerner kitchen and roof terrace. Amenities include air conditioning, AV Sonos system, Rako LED lighting system, reserved parking space, double glazed windows, skylights with remote controlled roof blinds and day porterage.

Kent Terrace Regent’s Park NW1 £5,495,000 – Long Leasehold

A beautifully appointed seven bedroom Grade II Listed period home (3,786 sq ft / 351 sq m) located within this Nash terrace in Regent’s Park. The house features well planned and versatile accommodation offering an abundance of entertaining spaces complemented by the rare benefit of an open plan kitchen leading onto a private rear garden. Kent Terrace benefits from direct access to Regent’s Park via Hanover Terrace Mews and Kent Passage. It is also within walking distance to Baker Street Underground Station ( Jubilee, Bakerloo & Hammersmith & City Lines), St Johns Wood High Street, and St Johns Wood Underground Station ( Jubilee Line). Joint Agent.

020 7722 2223 | www.hanover-residential.com

A beautiful Grade II listed Georgian house located on the favoured Eastern side of Hamilton Terrace, one of St John’s Wood’s finest roads. This detached double-fronted house has been authentically restored, whilst being refurbished to the highest standard, and features the finest materials and finishes throughout. The addition of a new basement extension introduces a modern element of living to this period home.

ACCOMMODATION & AMENITIES Laid out over five floors and offering over 5,250 sq. ft. / 486 sq. mt. of accommodation, the house provides well-planned living space, comprising five sizeable bedroom suites, a formal reception room, formal dining room, study, kitchen/ breakfast room, impressive leisure area incorporating gym, cinema and bar area and a magnificent 100 ft. landscaped garden. FREEHOLD PRICE ON APPLICATION JOINT SOLE AGENT 36HAMILTONTERRACE.COM

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Ian G G Ian

CARLTONHILL HILLNW8 NW8 CARLTON A the West beautifulfamily familyhome homelocated locatedon West AAbeautiful beautiful family home located onon thethe West side of Carlton Hill offering superb family side of Carlton Hill offering superb family side of Carlton Hill offering superb family accommodation parking accommodationwith withsecure secureoff street parking accommodation with secure offoffstreet street parking and a 61 ft south facing garden. and a 61 ft south facing garden. and a 61 ft south facing garden. The has recently been refurbished, comprises Theproperty, property,which which recently been refurbished, comprises The property, which has recently been refurbished, comprises The property, which hashas recently been refurbished, comprises 2,684 sqsq ft of of spacious living space including a wonderful wonderful kitchen/ 2,684 ft of spacious living space including a wonderful kitchen/ 2,684 sq ft spacious living space including a kitchen/ 2,684 sq ft of spacious living space including a wonderful kitchen/ breakfast room backing directly onto thethe rearrear garden along withwith a breakfast room backing directly onto the rear garden along with breakfast room backing directly onto garden along breakfast room backing directly onto the rear garden along with aa a large master bedroom suite. large master bedroom suite. large master bedroom suite. large master bedroom suite.

Accommodation Accommodation & Amenities Entrance Hall, Guest WC, Double Drawing Room, Accommodation & & Amenities Amenities Entrance Entrance Hall, Hall, Guest Guest WC, WC, Double Double Drawing Drawing Room, Room, Study, Kitchen/Breakfast Room, Dining Room/Conservatory, Master Bedroom Accommodation & Amenities Entrance Hall, Guest WC, Double Drawing Room, Study, Kitchen/Breakfast Room, Dining Room/Conservatory, Master Bedroom Suite, Study, Kitchen/Breakfast Room, Dining Room/Conservatory, Master Bedroom Suite, Suite, Three Further Bedrooms, Two Further Bathrooms (One En-Suite), Dressing Room, Study, Kitchen/Breakfast Room, Dining Room/Conservatory, Master Bedroom Suite, Three Further Bedrooms, Two Further Bathrooms (One En-Suite), Dressing Room, Three Further Bedrooms, Two Further Bathrooms (One En-Suite), Dressing Room, Secure Off-Street Parking for Two Cars, Electric Gates, South Facing Garden, Alarm Secure Off-Street Parking for Two Cars, Electric Gates, South Facing Garden, Alarm Three Further Bedrooms, Two Bathrooms (One En-Suite), DressingAlarm Room, Secure Off-Street Parking for TwoFurther Cars, Electric Gates, South Facing Garden, System, Gas Heating, Planning extend the to System, Gas Central Central Heating, Outline Planning toGates, extendSouth the Kitchen Kitchen creating up to Secure Off-Street Parking for Outline Two Cars, Electricto Facingcreating Garden,up Alarm System, Gas Central Heating, Outline Planning to extend the Kitchen creating up to 500 sq ft of accommodation. 500 sq ft ftGas of accommodation. accommodation. System, Central Heating, Outline Planning to extend the Kitchen creating up to 500 sq of

500 sq ft of accommodation.

FREEHOLD FREEHOLD PRICE ON FREEHOLD PRICE ON APPLICATION APPLICATION SOLE AGENT PRICEAGENT ON APPLICATION SOLE SOLE AGENT 12:13

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IT’S ALL ABOUT THE PLACE

The new Pancras Square at King’s Cross with the station and Great Northern Hotel beyond

LIVE IN AMAZING KING’S CROSS You have restaurants, cafes, parks and fountains; you have shops, squares and the joys af a canal; you have the best national and international rail connections in London and an extraordinary choice of some of the Capital’s most extraordinary homes. Move in now and experience living at King’s Cross.

You have 6 tube lines, 3 mainline stations and a Eurostar. Live just 5 minutes from Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus and Covent Garden and a mere 8 minutes from Victoria.

KXResidential_Vantage_210mmx297mm_AW.indd 1

Please contact us at: enquiries@livingatkingscross.co.uk or call +44 (0)20 7205 4349 kingscross.co.uk/homes Marketing suite: 14–15 Stable Street, King’s Cross, London N1C 4AB

www.kingscross.co.uk

11/09/2015 14:06

375 Kensington High Street LONDON

Invest in your future - Call now Take this final opportunity to invest in 375 Kensington High Street, one of London’s most sought after new addresses. Boasting an exclusive collection of contemporary one, two and three bedroom apartments and penthouses and world class residents’ facilities including 24 hour Harrods concierge, luxury pool, spa, private cinema and state-of-the-art gymnasium.

Call now for your personal appointment 020 3468 5305 1, 2 and 3 bedroom apartments and penthouses from £1,195,000 Sales & Marketing Suite open daily 10am to 6pm (Thursdays until 8pm). Prices correct at time of going to print. Photography depicts 375 Kensington High Street.

www.375kensingtonhighstreet.co.uk Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies

property

profile

The future’s bright Ahead of a new Parkheath office in Kensal Rise, managing director Tom Gladwin discusses the north-west London sales and lettings markets

How is the sales market fairing? It’s very busy at the moment and demand is high. Up to £4m the market is strong and properties are moving quickly. However, buyers seem to be more sensitive to properties that they deem to be overpriced. It shows how important it is to select the correct agency to sell your home, not just the one who quotes the highest price. Above £4m things seem to be much quieter with the increases in stamp duty really slowing things down. The cost of moving has become so great that people are instead looking at home improvements, or buying a second home as an alternative.

What is the lettings market like currently? The lettings market is very busy. Traditionally, as with the sales market, there have been ‘busy periods’, however, over recent years this has become less defined, and, apart from a slight slowdown over Christmas, we continue to be busy all year round. The types of tenants do change throughout the year, but at Parkheath we are lucky enough to deal with everyone from corporate relocation agents renting family houses to young professionals sharing their first apartments in London.

How are things going in Kentish Town since the opening of the office 15 months ago? We hit the ground running and now we’re really at home in Kentish Town. Through existing clients who own properties in the area and word of mouth, Parkheath is now a big part of the Kentish Town property market. Our sales department is thriving and we are about to expand the sales team. Lettings have been phenomenally successful too and I am constantly told by clients this is down to the professionalism of our team.

What do you love about north-west London? I love north-west London. I grew up here and it's where I live. At various stages of my life I've lived for a time in each of the areas we operate in. It makes a big difference when dealing with clients. I know instantly what they are looking for and where to find it. People are busy and they want us to understand what they are looking for and place them as quickly as possible with the right property. Most of our staff also live in the area and that gives us a special insight and knowledge that makes a difference when you are dealing with clients and buyers alike.

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When is the Kensal Rise office opening? We plan to open the doors in January 2016. We’re already very active in the area, and the office will combine superbly with our South Hampstead, West Hampstead and Belsize Park offices. Parkheath will be the only agency to offer this unique coverage and exposure for our clients and a level of professionalism that we feel is lacking in this area. Kensal Rise is a very exciting, vibrant place. There is a good supply of beautiful family properties as well as high-end flats and rentals, which is what we look for in an area.

What’s in the pipeline for the future? I’m lucky enough to have a great team of people who are excited about our company and love what they do. The future is about continuing to be a professional, dedicated, well-informed company, which works with integrity and wants to be the best agency for our clients. parkheath.com

THANKS TRIP ADVISOR. WE’RE AS PLEASED AS RUM PUNCH.

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UNNA Luxury Resorts & Residences

Visit stpetersbaybarbados.com and then call 0800 097 0847

THE WORLD AGREES, IT’S A WORLD APART.

Derby Street W1 ÂŁ5,650,000 A stunning and recently refurbished three-bedroom, five story townhouse set on a popular mews street and situated close to the amenities of central Mayfair. Freehold. EPC=D

Marylebone: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk

Clifton Gardens W9 ÂŁ2,795,000 A stunning three-bedroom lateral apartment spanning two stucco fronted houses and backing onto an award winning communal garden in Little Venice. Share of Freehold. EPC=D

Little Venice: 020 7993 3050 sales.lve@marshandparsons.co.uk

b a s l e r- f a s h i o n . c o m For retail enquiries call 020 7225 5203

B E R LI N

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LONDON

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NEW YORK

MOSCOW

SYDNEY

ABU DHABI

10.09.15 11:37