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contents Off to a good start 10 a crafty business
33 wishlist
As London Craft Week dawns, meet the creative forces reviving traditional trades for a 21st-century audience
14 skye's the limit
A day in the life of top chef Skye Gyngell
Collection
96
Fashion photographer Dirk Messner at LUMAS
36 100 YEARS OF ART
Ben Uri Gallery in St John's Wood marks its centenary with an exhibition titled No Set Rules
Style
Salma Hayek for Pomellato
42 in the hot seat
Pink sapphires at William & Son and Louis Vuitton’s Monogram Idylle collection
22 best in show Horology and jewellery highlights from this year's Basel extravaganza
46 oriental express
56 heart on your sleeve
How fashion has shaped the political landscape
Interiors 69 wishlist
Pendants from Anglepoise
Design hotel The Zetter Townhouse opens in Marylebone
72 green party Gardening tips from Kate Gould
Health & Family 77 Wishlist Alex and Alexa’s wedding shop
the rabbit hole
Celebrate the birthday of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland
Food & Drink 87 wishlist
22 42
New summer holiday essentials
80 150 years down
Embrace popping poolside prints inspired by the East
46 10
30 watch news IWC marks 75 years with a prestigious range of timepieces
62 best of beauty
As L.K.Bennett launches its latest collaboration with British model Laura Bailey, we consider the secret behind the brand’s success
Love the skins you're in
70 INTERIORS INSPIRATION
Olivia Palermo reimagines an Aspinal of London Marylebone tote
20 jewellery news
60 the list
39 WISHLIST
19 wishlist
14
Scene
22
A local wine bar from culinary king Jason Atherton
88 foodie favourites
A new Brindisa destination and Kentish Town's gastro appeal
90 the big cheese Meet outspoken restaurant designer Clément Blanchet
Travel 93 WISHLIST
New signature suites at The Marylebone Hotel
94 TRAVEL in style
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From Florence to Barcelona
96 blue crush
Discover French Polynesia's heavenly isles – Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora
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From the editor
A
ustralian chef Skye Gyngell is as famous for her seasonal dishes at Spring as she is for her journalistic contributions as Vogue food editor. As Dom Pérignon opens a pop-up townhouse in Fitzrovia this month, Skye will be cooking a bespoke menu to match three Dom Pérignon vintages, despite the fact that she doesn’t drink. “It was hard as I don't drink, but luckily I think my food is always fairly light, and seasonal, so it naturally pairs well with Champagne,” she says. Get an insight into a day in the life of this multi-tasking chef (p. 14). “There is something of a symbolic, almost talisman-like aspect to it,” founder of London Craft Week Guy Salter says of crafting. “It has become de rigueur for brands to extol their craft virtues; telling that story with beautifully shot print ads depicting craftsmen at work.” Ahead of the inaugural event, which arrives at workshops, galleries and exhibition spaces across the capital this month, we meet the creative forces giving time-honoured skills a 21st-century makeover (p. 10). Elsewhere, explore the showstoppers and ones to watch from the horology and jewellery world with an in-depth report from Basel (p. 22); Jack Watkins celebrates the 100th birthday of St John’s Wood’s Ben Uri Gallery with a sneak peek at its centenary exhibition No Set Rules (p. 36); and Lauren Romano prunes the brain of award-winning local garden designer Kate Gould in the run up to RHS Chelsea Flower Show (p. 72). With the countdown to the general election underway, political parties are gaining support from the most stylish of fans. As Vivienne Westwood pledges allegiance to the Green Party, Ellen Millard discusses the role of politics in fashion (p. 56). As thoughts turn fully to summer sojourns, take inspiration from the popping prints in our Oriental Express fashion story (p. 46) and fierce tribal accessories, which will have you loving the skins you’re in (p. 60). These stylish buys will have you Kari Colmans covered from St Tropez – to Tahiti (p. 96). Editor Follow us on Twitter @VantageNW
Everything is Illuminated, p. 33 Opera © Dirk Messner, lumas.co.uk
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Clockwise from top: Åse-Marit Thorbjørnsrud, Fragments IV, represented at COLLECT by Galleri Format, photography by Sveinung Braathen; LINLEY marquetry, selecting the veneers; Lison de Caunes, Contemplatifs, represented at COLLECT by The French Craft Project, photography by Gilles Trillard; Junko Mori, A Silver Organism, represented at COLLECT by Adrian Sassoon; Watchmaking at Vacheron Constantin ©Vacheron Constantin; Eleanor Lakelin, Carved Hollow Form, photography by Cockpit Arts; BeatWoven, Diamond Daze Cushion, represented by Cockpit Arts
a crafty business As the inaugural London Craft Week dawns, Lauren Romano speaks to the creative forces reviving time-honoured crafts for a 21st-century audience
f e at u r e
Below, L-R: Jongjin Park, Definitely Ceramics I, represented at COLLECT by Cynthia Corbett Gallery; Natasha Daintry, Skin Deep (Of Human Colour), represented at COLLECT by Adrian Sassoon
C
raft – it’s a word that’s lurking about a lot these days. Take a trip to your local farmers’ market and see how many times you spot it scrawled on signs dotted alongside stalls proffering gluten/dairy/ refined sugar-free ‘brownies’, if you don’t believe me. It’s the word du jour at boutiques and microbreweries too. From hand-tailored clothes to cask ales, we’re getting our fill of ‘craft’ from all over the place. But while the sartorial industry unites for London Fashion Week and architects come together under the banner of the London Design Festival, diary highlights for those with a soft spot for crafting have been a bit thin on the ground – until now. This month, in an attempt to bring creatives from the multi-disciplined industry together, the first ever London Craft Week arrives at workshops, galleries and exhibition spaces across the capital. Masterminded by chairman of Crafted Showcase, Guy Salter, the seven-day programme will applaud artisans at the pinnacle of their craft, and celebrate the lesser-known makers producing goods for some of the world’s most coveted luxury labels. Taking the atelier as the starting point, many of the events will give visitors a chance to get up close to some enviable creations, splinters and all. Behind-the-scenes moments come thick and fast. At its flagship headquarters, founding sponsors Vacheron Constantin will be hosting a haute horology masterclass with a demonstration from its master watchmaker and engraver. Over in Regent’s Park, Ormonde Jayne creator Linda Pilkington will be opening her studio to visitors to mix up a perfume or cologne. And the apprentice and master weaver from Walpole British Luxury Award winner Dovecot Studios will be taking to the wooden handloom at the British Library. Meanwhile, over at the Wellcome Trust, innovators from Heatherwick Studio will be joined by glass artists Jon Lewis and Max Lamb to talk about the Bleigiessen sculpture – in all its 15 tonnes of glass sphered glory. For a long time the luxury market was craft’s (artisanal) bread and (hand-churned) butter. In his welcome note on craftedshowcase.co.uk, Salter concedes that craftsmanship has long been part of the luxury mantra. “There is something of a symbolic, almost talisman-like aspect to it. It has become de rigueur for brands to extol their craft virtues; telling that story with beautifully shot print ads depicting craftsmen at work,” he says, adding that, sadly, only a handful of mainstream luxury companies still have outstanding craft credentials. It was his hunt for the truly bespoke that led to the founding of London Craft Week. Supported by the aforementioned Vacheron Constantin, together with Arts Council England, the Crafts Council, the Heritage Crafts Association, the Mayor of London and Walpole – the celebration has assembled the
Who’s Who of the crafting clique to help open up the practice to everyone from the discerning collector to the curious. The flagship event – the Crafts Council’s annual COLLECT fair at Saatchi Gallery – will see collectors, makers and curators from across the globe descend on London. Museum-quality pieces from 35 international galleries will be represented alongside a programme of talks. “I think the attitude to the handmade and craftsmanship has certainly undergone a huge change over the last decade,” COLLECT show director Daniella Wells tells me. “Everything seems to be crafted these days, and this popularity for the handmade makes for a more engaged customer,” she says. “People like things that have been made by people.” And the statistics suggest that they really do. According to Wells, craft from all industries contributes £3.4 billion to the UK economy each year and has some 150,000 employees. There are 11,620 craft businesses – of which 88 per cent are sole traders – in the UK, generating £745 million a year. The diversity of the practice is ever broadening, too. In 2010 the Crafts Council launched a touring exhibition called Lab Craft: Digital adventures in contemporary craft, which opened up the possibly contentious debate about whether there should be a concern over the lack of hand-making. “Conclusions seemed positive and visitors acknowledged that these processes were simply another option, as part of a larger practice and that making, and the knowledge of making, is still integral to creating,” Wells explains. “After all, truly creative people keep pushing boundaries.” For this year’s offering, the fair will have a space dedicated to COLLECT Open, where artists can explore new ideas and put forward avant-garde projects and collaborations.
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Leading art dealer Adrian Sassoon is a champion of both contemporary and antique pieces. I put it to him that collectors might be quicker to recognise the specialist skills and high level of craftsmanship evident in older works as opposed to newer models. “I think that people may be resigned to seeing objects made of modern materials as less skilful,” he admits. “I encourage artists to work with gold, agate and the finest glass and porcelain. These materials demand and inspire artists to work with historic skills and great extremes but with a new, contemporary visual vocabulary.” Sassoon believes that art and design will evolve much like the chicken and the egg: “Skilled makers will continue to exist if schools like the Royal College of Art notice that it does not matter what you design if there is no one trained to make it.” The glitterati of the craft world takes centre stage at COLLECT, which places great emphasis on assembling marked limited edition pieces, but the fair is also committed to keeping a fresh edge with a quota of new artists from revisiting galleries. Galerie Marzee in the Netherlands, for example, is the largest gallery for modern art jewellery in the world and represents some of the most influential designers, but it also dedicates a chunk of its resources to fostering young talent. The annual Marzee Graduate Show has week-long workshops at its atelier up for grabs for the winners. Meanwhile, the Marzee for Starters initiative offers collectors and novices willing to take a punt on an affordable selection of work produced as limited editions by both emerging and established names. The concept of craftsmanship sometimes sits in an awkward no man’s land between the past and the future. With developments in high-tech materials and processes emerging, the scope for producing no longer relies solely on hand power, but Galerie Marzee is unperturbed by these broadening horizons. “It’s important to us that we see the hand, head and heart at work and in harmony in the output of our artists,” says the gallery’s assistant Lizzie Atkins. “Classic materials remain popular, even in the graduate shows, and it seems that pushing the boundaries of their chosen medium is what drives our artists more than the incorporation of technology.” COLLECT’s Wells is similarly unfazed: “A creative individual will always give their work a unique edge,” she tells me. “This is frequently a combination of traditional skill, new technique and, most importantly, the artist’s own voice. There is a lot of beautiful hand-crafted work on the market and what I’m interested in and what COLLECT supports is objects that will stand the test of time to be billed as ‘antiques of the future’.” If technology isn’t complicating matters then the small matter of slashed arts funding is. Fewer coppers in the piggy bank have understandably had a big impact on all creative industries, but Wells explains
with a smile that like most passionate sectors “there has been a rise of energy in the face of adversity”. Organisations are taking a leaf from the Crafts Council’s book and are beginning to pool their resources. The blockbuster What is Luxury? exhibition at the V&A, for example, is one of the Council’s most high-profile partnerships and proof of what can be achieved by collaboration; long gone are the days of the lone craft ranger. Perhaps the craft industry’s most ubiquitous, not to mention accessible, arm is found in London’s up-andcoming culinary scene. The question of food provenance has been clocking up column inches for some time now. As restaurant menus become ever more succinct – shrunk down to cryptic components (monk’s beard, foam, crumbs) – the origins of ingredients comes as standard. In the most conscientious of eating establishments, if you want to know the precise location of the field where the sorrel in your salad was grown, I’d hazard a guess it will be on the tip of the maître d’s tongue. Careful sourcing is all well and good, but a new wave of pioneers has taken matters one step further. Those looking to refuel after doing the workshop rounds of London Craft Week can continue in the handmade vein at Craft London. Opening this month in Greenwich, the three-floor restaurant, bar and café hand-makes much of its produce on site. Founded by chef Stevie Parle in collaboration with interior designer Tom Dixon, Craft London will be
“If technology isn’t complicating matters then the small matter of slashed arts funding is”
f e at u r e From opposite page, L-R: Jongjin Park, Artistic Stratum No 2, represented at COLLECT by Cynthia Corbett Gallery; Watchmaking at Vacheron Constantin © Vacheron Constantin; LINLEY marquetry, placing of veneers; Laura Youngson Coll, Haeckel 1, represented at COLLECT by CAA, photography by Laura Younson; Ndidi Ekubia, Vivid Vase Range, represented by Cockpit Arts, photography by Jeremy Johns Bottom of page: Adi Toch, Hold Out Your Hands, represented at COLLECT by Bishopsland
roasting coffee, curing meat, smoking fish, fermenting vegetables and producing honey. There’s an orchard, smoke house and kitchen garden to make sure it’s fit for purpose, and anything that isn’t made with the team’s own fair hands comes from world-class experts. The wine, for example, is from the capital’s first urban winery, London Cru. “A chef is similar to an artist in many respects,” Parle comments. “As a profession we are constantly crafting. It’s important to get hands-on with our ingredients at a base level and it’s a pleasure to be more involved.” Closer to home in Camden, Half Hitch gin founder Mark Holdsworth is on a one-man mission to reinstate gin production to the area. With a little digging he discovered that Camden Lock once lay at the heart of London’s gin industry, with a footprint of distilleries and warehouses stretching 20 acres. In the late 19th century an express train used to transport the lucrative liquid cargo to farflung locations around the world on a daily basis. “Having lived in the area for most of my life and worked on a market stall here in my youth, I decided I would set about bringing back gin making,” Holdsworth explains. “I found some old illustrated newspapers and noticed a tea urn on a refreshment stall at Camden Market. Tea has long been a complement to gin in cocktails, but hasn’t been used as a key botanical that often. I decided to find the best way to extract its flavour and this turned out to be through a time-old process of tinctures.” The resulting slightly woody tipple is a combination of these tinctures and vacuum distillation – or, in other words, the old with the new.
As a self-taught distiller Holdsworth is a prime example of how passion can revive long forgotten trades. “I don’t think old techniques will be lost,” he says, optimistically. “There is a huge amount of research done by people, often by those with just a personal interest, that will keep old processes from dying out.” From the gin in our G&T to the hand-blown glass we drink it from, blasts from the crafting past continue to thrive. And as the workshops throwing open their doors for London Craft Week testify, computers and new precision engineering machines still play second fiddle to the power invested in the humble, human digits of the craftsmen. Or, as London Craft Week founder Salter succinctly sums it up: “Nothing can replicate something that has been made by the human hand."n
London Craft Week, 6-10 May, at various venues across the capital; COLLECT, presented by the Crafts Council, 8-11 May, Saatchi Gallery, SW3 londoncraftweek.com; craft-london.co.uk; halfhitch.london
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Skye’s
THE
limit As chef Skye Gyngell collaborates with Dom PĂŠrignon for a pop-up in Fitzrovia this month, she talks Kari Colmans through her average day, from grabbing breakfast on the go to curling up on the couch with a box set
i n t e rv i e w
I
f I’m working at my restaurant Spring in Somerset House then I’ll be up early, but on days off then I’ll enjoy a lie in. Either way, the first thing I do is make a coffee. Always coffee! I’m not a morning person, so the day only really starts after my second cup. I check my phone for any important emails or messages, and then get my dog Luna her breakfast. I always try and have something for breakfast, but more often than not it will have to wait until I’m in the kitchen at Spring so I can snack on a piece of toast. If I’m at home, I will make myself something simple like a boiled egg and avocado. On weekends, perhaps I’ll have more of a treat like banana bread. I drive everywhere in London. Always have, always will. So depending on traffic, it doesn’t take me long to get to work from my home in Shepherd’s Bush. It’s usually around 25 minutes. When I get there the first thing I do is say hi to the team. Then I check the reservations for that day. I have a fantastic team of people around me meaning that I can afford a little flexibility – if I’m not there, things still run like clockwork. I’m not in the kitchen every day, but I’m on rota like everyone else. Having two years off, I missed being in the kitchen, and I’m still so excited to be back. I enjoy the fast-paced thrill of a working kitchen, but I also realise the importance of sitting back, taking your time, and ensuring everything is as it should be. I’m a perfectionist like that.
Images: Spring
Spending time devising new dishes is an ongoing process. I play with new ingredients when I get in, and encourage the rest of the kitchen team to do the same. It is reflected in the menu, which naturally evolves through the seasons. My team provides a constant source of inspiration and advice. The staff sit down for lunch all together at around 11am. It’s usually my first break, so more often than not I’ll just have a coffee. If I do eat, it will be a seasonal risotto with vegetables or something like that. I then spend the afternoon in the kitchen. Service kicks off from midday and typically dies down by about 3.30pm. After that, I could have meetings or spend time reviewing menus. If I’m not working in the evening, then I go home around 5pm. If I’m in for the dinner service, then usually I’m out of the door around midnight. However, on nights off I’ll be curled up with a box set. Currently I’m working on the new Les 3 Étages by Dom Pérignon townhouse. It will take place in a secret location in Fitzrovia. I love that each area of London is like a little village. Fitzrovia is no different, and has
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such a great community feel. Old book shops and cute restaurants tucked along side streets – you would never guess you’re a stone’s throw from Oxford Street. I have come up with a bespoke menu paired with three Dom Pérignon vintages. It was harder as I don’t drink, but luckily I think my food is always fairly light and seasonal, so it naturally pairs well with Champagne.
“You hear the word Michelin and you think white tablecloths – and that’s not what we were about” As well as Fitzrovia the south-east seems to be having a little moment when it comes to food – and Peckham, especially Herne Hill. The development around Elephant and Castle is exciting; it’s central enough, so it won’t be long before a few restaurants pop up there. When it comes to eating with friends, many live nearby, so we’ll often cook at each other’s houses, or go out locally. I hope my friends don’t get scared when it comes to cooking for me! It’s my job, not theirs. My daughters and I try to catch up as often as possible, but it’s never enough. When we do, I’ll often treat them to something fun like a cake at Violet Cakes in Hackney. Their favourite childhood dish is pot roast chicken with pumpkin, sage and mascarpone. It was always a firm family favourite. Even though people often ask me if it was tough at the beginning being a woman in what is often seen as a man’s world, I didn’t really notice that it was ever an issue. I don’t think that being a woman meant that I had to work harder for my success. I think anyone who works hard will get what they deserve. I remember where I was when I first heard about my Michelin star for Petersham Nurseries – in a queue for a bank on Chiswick High Road! While it wasn’t a curse, it had a monumental change on people’s expectations. You
hear the word Michelin and you think white tablecloths – and that’s not what we were about. Aside from cooking I also love to write. The kitchen is fun, creative and fast-paced. With writing, it’s a time to reflect and be inspired – to take a back seat. While I can’t imagine my life without cooking, writing is a way for me to be involved in food when I can’t always be in the kitchen. I haven’t considered writing about things other than food even though I enjoy reading about other subjects: fashion, politics, and international relations. But food is my real passion. For me to unwind I head to my bedroom; it is a little sanctuary. So if I really need to switch off then I’ll go to bed with a great box set or a good book. Currently I’m reading Lila by Marilynne Robinson. TV-wise I’ve just finished watching The Legacy, so I am looking for a new series to get stuck into. The last film I saw was Ida, a Polish film. It was beautiful, and was up for an Academy Award. Somerset House has such a great, varied series of exhibitions which I always try and make time to see. I most recently saw Guy Bourdin: Image Maker, which was absolutely incredible. Next on my list is Goya: The Witches and Old Women Album at The Courtauld Gallery.
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I love to travel. I’ve just been to France with friends and was in LA with work before that. Sicily is next up in June. Australia will always be where my family is, so by that definition Oz is home. But London is where I live, and it’s where my daughters are, so really, that makes it home. But I try and go back once a year. When it comes to food, Australians are surrounded by fresh, beautiful produce, and seasonality is much more apparent from an early age over there. I hope that the UK follows suit as we have such a fantastic abundance of produce here. n
Les 3 Étages by Dom Pérignon will be open from 9-10 of May in a secret townhouse somewhere in Fitzrovia. Here, guests can discover the ‘three windows of expression’ of Dom Pérignon Champagne in collaboration with Skye Gyngell who will create a bespoke menu paired with three Dom Pérignon vintages. Tickets are priced at £95 for a morning tasting, £200 for lunch and £250 for dinner, uk.domperignon.com/les3etages
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collection
wish list
STILL WATERS RUN DEEP In a striking move away from the androgynous, pale beauty of Tilda Swinton, Italian jewellery brand Pomellato has instead called upon exotic, dark-eyed Mexican actress Salma Hayek to front its latest campaign. Shot by renowned fashion photographers Mert and Marcus, each and every image, all of which were unveiled during Milan Fashion Week, showcases why Hayek was the perfect choice as the brand’s new ambassador; she poses, looking sultry, against a clear blue sky and swimming pool while sporting pieces from the brand’s iconic collections. The classic Capri range, pictured here in the form of a turquoise and rose gold necklace with matching earrings and a turquoise and ruby ring, shines ever more brightly on the glamorous Hollywood star.
Capri collection, POA; pomellato.com
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collection
jewellerynews Beneath the Rose
Luck be a Lady While it may be one of the oldest jewellers in the world, Cartier has always succeeded in keeping up with the times and this is no doubt why it has maintained such a lasting appeal. Its Amulette de Cartier collection, in particular, is indicative of the brand’s desire to create pieces which can be worn by modern women in everyday life. The precious charms (officially launched on 1 April) have been described by the house as “magical talismans” and encompass natural gemstones which carry their own hidden message or good luck charm. These have been set into pendants, earrings, bracelets and rings. From the opal symbolising happiness to the lapis lazuli (serenity), find the one that represents you.
Amulette de Cartier collection, from £1,420; cartier.com
Cutting Edge 2001 was the year the first piece of Louis Vuitton jewellery was created: a Monogram bracelet. This recognisable motif has since developed into five distinct ranges (Idylle, Sun, Star, Fusion and Dentelle) and this year, the house releases the new Monogram Idylle collection:
The new contemporary collection of easy-to-wear jewels includes hoop earrings, charm necklaces and stackable rings, all of which feature three shades of gold: yellow gold for the diamond, rose gold for the star and white gold for the round flower. uk.louisvuitton.com
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Pink sapphires – although historically less well-known than their blue counterparts – have recently been gaining popularity in the jewellery world, largely because of their similarity to pink diamonds (and their comparatively lower price point). Luxury British brand William & Son has chosen to pay homage to the gemstone’s natural beauty in a new high jewellery collection, Beneath the Rose. It takes its name from the phrase sub rosa – which refers to an act of secrecy and dates back to Roman and Greek mythology – as the company wished to highlight its commitment to exclusivity when it comes to its bespoke commissions. The sapphires have all been rose-cut and many of the pieces are set in rose gold, heightening the femininity of the collection which includes a spectacular large pink sapphire necklace, as well as a tennis bracelet, earrings and rings.
Beneath the Rose collection, POA williamandson.com
WorkinG Progress Last year saw luxury jeweller D’Joya celebrating Antoni Gaudi’s birthday with a one-off fine jewellery collection inspired by the revered architect’s work. Continuing its appreciation of architecture, the latest bespoke range draws on iconic buildings around the world, and each piece incorporates a priceless jewel. The grandeur of the Duomo cathedral has been reimagined into a Gothic-style pendant featuring salt-water pearls, diamonds and a princess diamond centrepiece, set on a trinity motif, while the exquisite windows of Sainte-Chapelle are referenced in an ornate diamond ring. The collection has launched as five pieces but with plans to build up over time.
djoya.com
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TIME After a year of working tirelessly, Baselworld is the time when the pinnacle figures of the high jewellery industry come together to reveal their latest creations. From show-stopping timepieces to one-of-a-kind suites and never-before-seen stones, Olivia Sharpe presents the jewels which dazzled us most this year
This page: 18-karat white gold necklace with diamonds and a graduation of South Sea and Tahitian pearls, Yoko London Opposite, clockwise from top left: Garden necklace in satin yellow gold with white diamonds, blue topaz, tsavorite and orange sapphires, Roberto Coin; Fiori in Fiore necklace, Pasquale Bruni; Sapphire and diamond double brooch with secret watch, Graff Diamonds; Frog ring, Roberto Coin; Rare Touch gold mesh bolero jacket, Jacob & Co; Summers in Provence high jewellery timepiece, Fabergé; Héra the peacock ring, from the Animaux de Collection, Boucheron; Jeux du Contraire ring, Sicis Jewels; Première Rock timepiece in pastel blue leather and steel triple-row chain, Chanel; Pensée de Diamants bracelet, Boucheron
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The Transformers When spending an astronomical amount of money on a piece of fine jewellery, there is some comfort in knowing (for the buyer, at least) that it can be worn in more ways than one. Along with its Fascination watch, Graff Diamonds also brought out a sapphire and diamond double brooch with a secret watch, which can be worn in three different ways: as a single piece, as individual brooches or as a single brooch with a tassel. During Chanel’s S/S14 fashion show, Cara Delevingne sported the Première rock timepiece in black but, never one to be conventional, the supermodel wore the watch as a belt (there was more than one attached before you start panicking, ladies). This year, the house has released its latest version of this model in pastel blue. Messika has always
succeeded in combining the traditions of high jewellery with contemporary designs; its skinny bracelets utilise an innovative technique which was patented by the house in 2007. This system of invisible nano-springs provide elasticity to the diamond strands, thereby giving the pieces flexibility. Founder of Jacob & Co, Jacob Arabo is well-known for his bold and daring creations and this year he unveiled two standout collections: Cerastes and Rare Touch. The latter includes a diamond mesh cuff that was worn by Madonna on her MDNA tour, and a bolero jacket made from gold and diamonds. Whatever will they think of next?
Super Natural It is no secret that flowers and nature have long been a source of inspiration for jewellers, and the Basel halls were once again bursting with pretty perennials, heralding the arrival of spring. Carla Amorim looked to her native Brazil for her Botanic fine jewellery collection, while Fabergé was drawn to summers in Provence for its new high jewellery watch; limited to just five pieces, the self-winding 37mm model includes a diamond-encrusted dial decorated with precious gemstones, mother-of-pearl flowers and turquoise leaves. At Roberto Coin, the jeweller refreshed his Garden collection to include an
enchanting pendant featuring a beautiful blue topaz surrounded by tsavorites, white diamonds and orange sapphires. However, for us, the winner for the prettiest piece had to go to Pasquale Bruni; its new collection, Prato Fiorito, includes a stunning Fiori in Fiore necklace encompassing pink sapphires and diamonds, with a pavé flower and a drop of multifaceted morganite.
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The Rarer, the Better
Blue Steel
Rare is a word that gets bandied around a lot in the Basel halls, as every year sees the most precious diamonds, coloured gemstones and pearls displayed in all their glory. As part of its tenth anniversary collection launched this year, Parisian jeweller Valérie Messika created a ten-piece collection of unique high jewellery sets, which not only showcases the founder’s design talent but also the spectacular diamond, a stone that has always been very close to her heart (her father, Andre, is a key player in the diamond trade). The stunning Manchette Swan cuff design, which uses the graceful lines of marquise-cut stones to replicate the bird’s plumage, truly allows the diamonds to speak for themselves. Along with a number of emerald suites, Indian jeweller Amrapali paid tribute to its iconic lotus motif with an 18-karat yellow gold, ruby and diamond necklace. Every year, Japanese jeweller Mikimoto presents one-of-a-kind high jewellery pieces and this year, the Pearl Drape necklace was one of the most talked-about. Then again, its Legend necklace, featuring a captivating water opal and spectacular 24mm Baroque South Sea pearl, certainly lived up to its name. Yoko London showcased its impressive collection of pearls in all shapes, sizes and colour varieties, bringing out natural pink Freshwater pearls and dark grey Tahitian pearls in new, contemporary designs.
We journalists have a habit of pulling trends out of thin air, but when it came to this year’s Basel, there was undisputedly a recurring theme: and this was the colour blue. As well as being the bezel colour of choice for several new watch models, blue gemstones also played a key role in this year’s jewellery collections, ranging from sapphires and topazes to Paraiba tourmalines and lapis lazuli. Well-known for her playful designs, French jeweller Lydia Courteille unleashed an octopus pendant but what made this underwater creature truly captivating was its array of sapphires in deep shades of blue, green and violet, plus a dazzling opal. Sutra Jewels has never been one to shy away from colour, and the brand certainly demonstrated it this year with its new turquoise necklace (predicted to be the next ‘in’ stone), a piece that has since been listed as one of the show’s favourites. Chopard revisited its iconic Happy Hearts collection by bringing out new pieces featuring the openwork hearts motif also in turquoise, and for its high jewellery range, it unveiled the 41.57-carat oval Paraiba tourmaline ring. In order not to detract attention away from this exceptional stone, the simple design features a slender lacework ribbon of diamonds. Finally, Stephen Webster lived up to his reputation for being a rocks god with his new Gold Struck collection; inspired by the Cheapside Hoard (the world’s largest cache of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery discovered in London more than 100 years ago), it includes the electrifying finger ring set with turquoise, amethyst, tanzanite and blue topaz.
Clockwise from top left: Ruby necklace, Amrapali; Manchette Swan bracelet, Messika Joaillerie; Turquoise necklace, Sutra Jewels; 41.57-carat oval Paraiba tourmaline ring and Temptations earrings, both Chopard; Gold Struck finger ring, Stephen Webster; Octopus pendant, Lydia Courteille; 18-karat white gold, diamonds and South Sea and natural colour Freshwater pearl ring, and 18-karat white gold, diamonds and natural colour pink Freshwater pearl earrings, both Yoko London; Pearl drape necklace with Akoya cultured pearls and diamonds, Mikimoto
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Legends of the Hall At this year’s Baselworld there was a definite feeling of nostalgia in the air. Rather than brands showing off with one-of-a-kind pieces in order to make headlines, many were instead paying tribute to their heritage. British jeweller Garrard commemorated its 280th anniversary with two new collections: the Regal Waterfall collection reinterprets two historic symbols relating to the brand (the Regal and Waterfall motifs), while the second collection, Bow, presents a modern interpretation of three diamond brooches Garrard designed for Queen Victoria in 1858. Spanish jeweller Carrera y Carrera similarly delved into the past in order to mark its 130th birthday, launching the Universo collection. This has been inspired by an old travel diary owned by an adventurer who was fascinated by a 2,600-year-old sculpture discovered in Spain in 1897; the Lady of Elche. Rather than launching an entirely new collection, Marco Bicego instead updated those that have won the jeweller a loyal fanbase over the years, including his oldest, Paradise (launched 12 years ago), which has been slightly adapted to include larger coloured stone pieces. The jeweller’s Marrakech
collection did see an entirely new piece unveiled this year – a woven white gold bracelet – but even this turned out to be a subtle homage to the brand’s history, with each of the 15 strands representing a year since the company was first founded.
Time is Precious While jewellery and watches are typically divided into separate camps, what happens when the worlds of haute joaillerie and horologie come together? While we were relieved to see that watchmakers are finally realising that women no longer just value a watch for its number of diamonds, this doesn’t mean to say that we can’t all appreciate a bit of bling. And who better to do this than the king of diamonds himself, Laurence Graff? The jeweller followed his £33 million headline-making Hallucination watch, launched last year, with the Fascination model; worth $40 million, it features an astounding 38.13-carat D Flawless pear-shape diamond at its centre that can be removed and
converted into a bracelet or ring. Both Harry Winston and Boucheron captured our imaginations with their own interpretations of the secret watch, the former having created the aptly-named The Jeweller’s Secret; inside what appears to be a make-up compact (an exquisite mother-of-pearl, pink sapphire and diamond case) is a delicate pocket watch. Boucheron nearly stole the limelight with its Lierre de Lumière timepiece. This true work of art took about 650 hours to make and has a total of 1,223 stones. With such beauty and artistry on show, both jewellers and watchmakers have truly surpassed themselves this year. n
Clockwise from above: Bow necklace with South Sea and Ashoka pearls, and white diamonds, Garrard; Garza sculpture, Carrera y Carrera; Lierre de Lumière secret timepiece, Boucheron; Fascination watch, Graff; VIII Grand Bal Cancan watch in pink gold, white ceramic, feathers and diamonds, Dior; The Jeweller’s Secret, Harry Winston; Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel timepiece in 18-karat beige sculpted gold, Chanel; Blue sapphire ring with white gold and diamonds, Garrard
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Each Spring, Basel becomes a hive buzzing with watch aficionados as buyers, journos and collectors amass for the world’s largest watch fair. Amid the classic and the contemporary, the refined and the sublime, these were the watches that most caught our eye. Richard Brown reports
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he biggest news from Baselworld 2015 was that TAG Heuer will be partnering with Google and Intel to produce a smart watch. Interesting not for the product itself – we still have yet to see it – but for what the collaboration reveals about the Swiss mechanical watch industry. Which is that it’s nervous. It won’t tell you so, but in the wake of the Apple Watch, it is. With the quartz crisis still fresh in the minds of the industry’s leading stalwarts, brands are seeking to protect themselves against the greatest threat they’ve faced for 30 years. And while Swatch, Breitling, Montblanc and Frederique Constant have all, in some way, embraced the digital, it is TAG that’s spearheading the Apple counter-attack face-on. “We don’t know for the moment if the [digital] market exists,” TAG’s general director Guy Sémon admitted to Wired magazine. And yet, revealing the collaboration with Google, LVMH watch chief Jean-Claude Biver hailed it as the “biggest announcement” of his 40 year career – quite the sound-bite from the mouth of a man who, having sat at the helm of Blancpain, Omega and Hublot, is widely considered as the grandfather of the modern watch industry. ‘Innovation’ is the word touted most among watch manufacturers. The next two years will be the time for brands to prove it’s more than a frivolous buzzword. In the meantime, here’s what mesmerised us from the world of the mechanical.
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1. Patravi ScubaTec £16,500, Carl F. Bucherer
Equipped with a helium valve, luminescent hands, an ultra-precise, automatic movement and rugged rubber strap, the Patravi ScubaTec is well-spec’d for life underwater. It looks pretty special on dry land too.
2. Classic Fusion Enamel Britto £41,000 (in platinum), Hublot
After partnering to produce last year’s multicoloured World Cup football, Hublot has again joined forces with Brazilian cubist artist Romero Britto. The result is a beguiling, brightly-coloured piece of pop art.
3. Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time £85,800, H. Moser & Cie.
Moser’s Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time takes us back to the convex shapes that were popular in the 1960s. Its hands and dial are curved at the edges to follow the curvature of the rounded sapphire crystal that sits above.
4. Calatrava Pilot Travel Time £31,120, Patek Philippe
7 was Glashütte Original’s PanoReserve. A head-turner by anyone’s standards, the watch is now available cased in red gold with a matte-black dial or in stainless steel with a deep-blue dial. The black version wins it by a whisker.
7. Lux Sable
£12,400, Nomos Glashütte A lady looking to avoid the usual suspects when choosing a wristwatch might like to consider Nomos Glashütte. The Lux Sable comes with a manual-winding movement, Art-Deco-inspired case and in lesser-spotted aubergine.
8. Pontos S Regatta £5,800, Maurice Lacroix
Implausibly light thanks to its forged-carbon case, the Pontos S Regatta features a ten-minute countdown indication at 12 o’clock, allowing sailors to keep track of time in the minutes they spend jostling for position before a race. A 45mm diameter and luminescentcoated hands add extra visibility.
9. El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition £8,100, Zenith
Yes, that does say Patek Philippe on the dial. A pilot’s watch is perhaps not what you’d expect from the brand, which is half of the appeal. The other half is its bold, 42mm size and classically masculine design.
Should you ever need to time something to a fifth-ofa-second, the 300 measurement divisions on Zenith’s Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition will allow you to do so. Alternatively, simply sit back and drink in its sporty styling.
5. Chamber of Wonders New World
10. Aquis Depth Gauge
The trio of watches comprising Girard-Perregaux’s Chamber of Wonders collection immortalise the worlds imagined by ancient cartographers. The dial of the New World (pictured) blends tones of blue and pink aventurine, calcite and Canadian nephrite and takes around 95 hours to create.
This patented diver’s watch measures depth using a unique gauge built into the sapphire crystal that allows water to enter the watch, the first timepiece in history to do so (intentionally, anyway). It comes with both a stainless steel and a rubber strap. Choose the rubber. n
£31,300, Girard-Perregaux
6. PanoReserve £15,800, Glashütte Original
One of the best-looking watches at this year’s Baselworld
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£2,300 Oris
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a jeweller’s
view Watch and jewellery specialist Fraser Hart has been trading in luxury timepieces since 1936. Following Baselworld, its team of experts presents its own ‘best in show’ guide
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11. Day Date 40 £41,700, Rolex
Chris Haynes, watch specialist at Brent Cross: “Rolex’s Day-Date 40 returns to the timeless proportions of the original. Inside is Rolex’s nextgeneration movement, a phenomenally well-engineered mechanism that promises timekeeping that is twice as good as the current movement, 15 per cent more efficient and will keep going for 70 hours off the wrist. A new benchmark has been set and this will filter through the rest of the range in the coming years.”
12. Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy £4,630, Omega
George Komodromou, merchandise planning manager: “This was my favourite watch of Baselworld 2015 because it’s not only a cool-looking watch but it also has a great story behind it, being a tribute to the 45th anniversary of the legendary Apollo 13 mission. The enamel (Snoopy) case back is a great finish too.”
13. Pelagos £3,020, Tudor
Jason Evans, Swansea store manager: “We saw lots of titanium at Baselworld this year but there was just something special about the Tudor Pelagos. Not only is it a superb-looking watch and comfortable at the deepest depths, but it has an urban coolness combined with a vintage feel. I can see this watch becoming a timeless classic and as soon as I was able to get this watch on my wrist I knew I was sold.”
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14. Dolcevita
£2,130, Longines Susan Knights, head of ecommerce: “My favourite watch would have to be the Longines Dolcevita. I love how the curved rectangular face sits comfortably on my wrist while the delicate dial and polished bracelet mean I can take it from day to night. With timeless elegance, this would definitely be my personal choice.”
15. Elite 6150
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£5,600, Zenith Brian Bailey, Kingston store manager: “Since its launch in 1994, the Zenith Elite has retained its reputation as a high-end, classical timepiece. The new Elite 6150 goes that little bit further with a slightly larger 42mm case housing a self-winding movement that has an incredible 100-hour power reserve – a first for the Elite range. I adore the simplicity and elegance of this watch as well as its ultra-thin design. The cambered dial is punctuated by sleek, graceful hands, which will appeal to all watch enthusiasts looking for that understated, elegant look.”
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16. The Maestro Frank Sinatra Limited Edition
£975, Raymond Weil Jim Sharples, regional manager: “For me, Raymond Weil has stolen the show. Its continued link with music is reinforced by its new association with Gibson guitars and the Gibson watch; its support of the Sinatra 100th birthday this December; its limited Sinatra watch (limited to 1,212 pieces); and the extension to the Tocatta range with the new watch supported by Nicola Benedetti. If this isn’t enough, it has also launched a stunning Piper pilot watch. Well done to all at RW. Exciting times ahead.”
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17. Navitimer 01 Limited Edition
£7,190, Breitling Adam Obernik, junior watch buyer: “My standout Basel watch is the Breitling Navitimer 01 Blue edition with a diameter of 43mm because it’s so slick! This is an exclusive version of the legendary Navitimer with a black dial featuring blue counters and an inner bezel. The movement is a Breitling in-house manufacture Calibre 01 visible through a transparent case back. With only 1,000 pieces being produced worldwide, this makes it a highly-soughtafter limited-edition Breitling for this year and we will be lucky enough to have these at Fraser Hart.”
18. B55
Price TBA, Breitling Dan Bailes, Solihull store manager: “It’s so exciting that real watchmakers are now stepping into the smart watch/phone era. Bearing this in mind, my Basel watch choice has to be the new Breitling B55. Using a Breitling app on your smartphone and a Bluetooth link to your phone, this piece allows you to not only manage your alarm and time zones from your watch via the app, but also to record flight times. It perfectly links Breitling’s history of aviation to a smart watch.”
19. Seamaster Aqua Terra £4,630, Omega Stephen Douglas, logistics manager: “Having always been a fan of Omega, and after spending my childhood playing the part of a secret agent, the logical watch for me is the new Omega Bond watch. With the move away from the traditional Seamaster and Planet Ocean, this watch is a little more discreet than the limited-edition pieces of previous years. The contrast between the blue and yellow on the dial gives a modern twist on a classic design. This, all combined with the reliability of Omega, makes it my watch of choice this year.”
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£3,150, TAG Heuer Myalee Sofield, head of buying: “The TAG Heuer Carrera Cara Delevingne Edition is based on the 41mm steel Lady Carrera but has a titanium-carbide coating and anthracite dial with rose gold-plated indices and hands, making it light and versatile to wear no matter what the occasion. There are two models; one with a diamond-studded bezel and one without diamonds. I love the strap version which has padded calfskin with the diamond-shaped chequerboard stitching. Each strap also carries Cara’s signature on the reverse side and the case back features her trademark Lion tattoo.” n
Fraser Hart, Brent Cross, 020 8732 8459 brentcross@fraserhart.co.uk; fraserhart.co.uk
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watch news Paint it Blue A relative under-the-radar-brand in Britain, Junghans has been a purveyor of slim-line, paired-back precision instruments since 1861. Based in Schramberg, Germany, the company remains independently owned and is highly respected within watch circles. Junghans’ Meister watches debuted in the 1930s, were refined during the 1960s and remain the company’s principal collection. In celebration of what Junghans calls the ‘blue hour’ – the brief moment only observed during sunrise and sunset – this year sees the Meister range presented with a deep-blue dial, adding an additional elegance to a enduring aesthetic.
Meister range, from £1,550, Junghans, junghans.de
A Question of Sport Every watch brand has a creation that defines it. In Audemars Piguet’s case, that’s the Royal Oak, and its sportier sister the Royal Oak Offshore, whose latest incarnation is the Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph. It comprises 335 parts and a tourbillon carriage that takes a watchmaker three days to assemble. Protected by a forged-carbon case and titanium pushpiece guards, it’s a watch that’s meant to be worn, whatever the terrain.
Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph, £201,200 audemarspiguet.com
Portugieser Party For the Chinese, 2015 is the Year of the Sheep. For IWC, it’s the Year of the Portugieser. Celebrating its 75th birthday, the watchmaker’s most prestigious range of timepieces has been modernised and most recently updated is the Portugieser Yacht Club Worldtimer. With a 24-hour dial, the Worldtimer offers 13 time zones, with each location named on the outer ring. The limited-edition model is available in a run of 100 red gold cases and 500 stainless steel cases.
one to watch Allun Michaels, store manager at Fraser Hart in Brent Cross, selects his watch of the month:
“The Big Bang is the most recognisable model in Hublot’s range, and this one is a real favourite. Combining steel, ceramic, resin, rubber and carbon fibre, this variant is inspired by the world of motorsport. A watch on the cutting edge of design and fashion” 30
Portugieser Yacht Club Worldtimer £18,750 (red gold), £7,500 (stainless steel), 138 New Bond Street; iwc.com
Big Bang, £11,000, Hublot Fraser Hart, Brent Cross, 020 8732 8459 BrentCross@fraserhart.co.uk @FHBrentCross
Auctioneers & Valuers Antiques | Jewellery | Watches
The Watch Sale Tuesday 26th May at 10am A selection of wrist watches previously sold at auction. Fellows Auctioneers www.fellows.co.uk Jewellery Quarter Saleroom & Head Office | 0121 222 7666 19 Augusta Street, Birmingham B18 6JA Mayfair London Office | 020 7127 4198 2nd Floor, 3 Queen Street, London W1J 5PA
fellowswatches
BESPOKE HANDMADE FURNITURE www.oficinainglesa.com London Showroom
info@oficinainglesa.com +44 (0) 207 2264 569
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EVERYTHING IS ILLUMINATED Offering museum-quality limited edition works for accessible prices, LUMAS is our go-to gallery for buying cutting edge photographic prints from its portfolio of more than 160 artists. Focusing on the ‘liberation of art’, the South Molton Street space rejects the white cube model, instead showcasing its wares within a domestic setting that looks and feels like a (very chic) private home. Of particular note, as well as its access to the Vogue and Condé Nast archives, is the work of fashion photographer Dirk Messner (pictured), who lives in Hamburg. His glamorous compositions are timelessly elegant, combining modern elements with the intoxicating flair of the Belle Epoque, while the illustrious interplay between light and shadow gives the striking images an almost painterly feel.
LUMAS, 57 South Molton Street, W1K lumas.co.uk
Opera © Dirk Messner, lumas.co.uk
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Walk this way Anyone with a cultural agenda for May’s double whammy of bank holidays can take a trip back in time on a Keats in Hampstead walk. Set to readings from some of the poet’s best-loved works, guides recount stories of his life in the area, taking a route through the Vale of Health and finishing at Keats House.
4 & 25 May (booking essential), 10 Keats Grove, NW3, keatsevents.eventbrite.co.uk
Let’s twist again If its past appearances on The X Factor are anything to go by, Funky Moves knows a thing or two about throwing some shapes. So it’s good news for anyone who fancies themselves as the next Brian Friedman that dance teachers Alana and Damian will be performing at Cabbages & Frocks Market. The duo will also be leading free workshops for kids at 11am and 2pm.
16 May & 20 June, Marylebone High Street, W1U
A good hook J.M. Barrie’s Peter Pan is brought to life this summer, with the beautiful Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre adding a dash of magic to the proceedings. The tale of never-ending childhood adventures and getting into scraps with the dastedly Captain Hook has been responsible for many a spin-off over the years, but this version stays true to the play’s original roots. Set in 1914, Peter Pan was actually inspired by an acquaintance of the playwright’s – George Llewelyn Davies – who was tragically killed in action in World War I aged just 21. Barrie’s captivating play is a tribute to the generation of lost boys swept up in the conflict. Above: Peter Pan artwork © Hugo Glendinning and Feast Creative; Pride and Prejudice, 2013 © David Jensen
15 May – 14 June, Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, NW1
scene Magda by James Mylne
Paint the town red Peter Schiazza
If the ticket queue snaking around the lower galleries of the V&A for its blockbuster exhibition Savage Beauty isn’t for you, Fashion Space Gallery has waded into McQueen world with an exhibition of its own. Warpaint: Alexander McQueen and Make-Up explores the beauty trends developed by McQueen’s trusted make-up artists, who bought his avant-garde concepts to life on the catwalk. As well as 22 of the most striking looks from 13 collections on show, don’t forget to download the specially created app, which gives visitors a virtual make-over.
30 April – 7 August, 20 John Prince’s Street, W1G
Another dimension McQ Plato’s Atlantis SS10, Peter Philips, photo by Anthea Simms
The line between illusion and reality blurs at Darren Baker Gallery’s latest group show Beyond the Hype. Showcasing a selection of hyperrealist artists that challenge perception through intricate detail, the exhibition will feature work from Darren Baker and Charles Moxon, as well as a series of striking collages from James Mylne. His clever recreation of fashion, film and popular culture images involves painstaking amounts of precision and, most impressively, an everyday ballpoint pen. Stop by for yourself and see if it lives up to the hype.
Until 1 May, 81 Charlotte Street, W1T
Poetry Slam 2014 © Peter Schiazza
Clockwise from top left: Design for a house for an art lover, 1901 © RIBA Library; Daily Record © The Hunterian, University of Glasgow; Photography of Mackintosh by James Craig Annan, 1893, © T&R Annan, courtesy of glasgowmackintosh.com; Artist’s house in the country © The Hunterian, University of Glasgow
great scot The career of leading Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh is celebrated with a retrospective at RIBA this month. Mackintosh Architecture collates more than 60 original drawings and watercolours, together with models to document the rise of the man who helped shape city skylines in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. From his apprenticeship years to establishing himself as a renowned designer, the exhibition reveals a series of ink drawings of Mackintosh’s famous Glasgow Herald Building and the Glasgow School of Art.
Until 23 May, The Architecture Gallery, RIBA, 66 Portland Place, W1B
Word up Spoken word is celebrated at the Roundhouse’s festival of live performance and storytelling, aptly named The Last Word. A range of raconteurs will be making their voices heard during the two week run. Celebrated poet and author Polarbear will kickstart proceedings, which will include highlights from YouTube sensation Mark Grist and a poetry extravaganza led by beat poet Michael Horovitz. And for those dropping by, check out new installation, the Living Room, where you can catch up via tablets and projectors and watch performances from emerging artists with a cup of tea.
16-31 May Chalk Farm Road, NW1
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From left: Christ Church, Spitalfields, Spring, by Leon Kossoff; Jake, by Frank Auerbach; Ghetto Theatre, Study, by David Bomberg
100 YEARS OF ART St John’s Wood’s Ben Uri Gallery marks its centenary with an expansive exhibition, writes Jack Watkins
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hen the Russian émigré Lazar Berson founded the Ben Uri Art Society in 1915, it was, appropriately enough, located in London’s East End, which at the time was home to a large Jewish community. Named after the builder of the Ark of the Covenant, it provided an art gathering place for Jewish immigrant artists and craftsmen. One hundred years on, and retitled the Ben Uri Gallery since 2001, Berson’s creation resides in the leafier environs of St John’s Wood. Still dedicated to promoting Jewish art, it houses a collection of around 1,300 works by more than 390 artists. To mark the centenary year, the gallery is running a collaborative exhibition with Southampton City Art Gallery, bringing together selected works from the Philip Schlee collection of drawings, prints and paintings by artists working in Britain between 1920 and 2004, as well as “resonant works on paper” from Ben Uri’s own collection. The works of some big names are included, among them David Hockney, Graham Sutherland and Henry Moore. But some of the most interesting are those whose work forms a staple of the Ben Uri collection, but who are more often inclined to slip
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under the radar. Of these, none occupies a more historic position in the development of British art than David Bomberg (1890-1957). The fifth child in a Polish-Jewish immigrant family, he’d grown up in the East End’s Whitechapel district, and then studied at the Slade School of Fine Art just before the First World War. Like many young artists of this period he was swept up in the obsessions of the Futurists with modern forms of machinery and movement. While refusing to become a member of Wyndham Lewis’s Vorticist group – the English equivalent of the Italian Futurists and the French Cubists – Bomberg’s highly geometric designs had clear affinities with the movement. Bomberg’s Mud Bath and Vision of Ezekiel were as advanced as anything being produced on Cubist lines in England at the time, and he was part of the First Vorticist Exhibition, held at the Dore Galleries in New Bond Street in 1915. But his relationship with the abrasive Lewis was an uneasy one and, in any case, his experiences on the Western Front destroyed any enthusiasm he once held for machinery. Subsequently, his work became more expressionistic and reflective. As late as the 1950s, he was distressed to find his work still being included in Vorticist retrospectives. Leon Kossoff (born in 1926), another artist who grew up in the East End, was a student of Bomberg at Borough Polytechnic in the early 1950s, after studying at St Martin’s School of Art, to where he would later return to teach in his own right. The excellence of his depictions of the human figure is reflected in his drawing of his parents, Two Seated Figures. But the London landscape is also a recurring feature of his work, from a contorted image of Hawksmoor’s Christ
Church, Spitalfields, towering balefully over the similarly distorted figures below; to dark charcoals of the railway bridge at Mornington Crescent. Though he’s an artist whose works are generally regarded to bear a dark, gloomy aspect, his pictures of the swimming baths at Willesden teem with life. And he has always been adept at finding art in the capital’s margins. Few would travel to Willesden Junction for spiritual uplift, but Kossoff’s Willesden Junction Landscape expresses something of the oddly captivating spectacle of the view of the broad mass of train lines racing off into the distance. Born in Germany, but British by adoption, Frank Auerbach (born in 1931) was another of Bomberg’s pupils at Borough. His parents had perished in the Nazi concentration camps and he spent his childhood at Bunce Court, a progressive boarding school for Jewish refugee children in Kent. Like Kossoff, he became a renowned London painter, and still works in the same studio he has occupied since the 1950s. His style, with its thickly applied layers of paint, has been described as “grotesque” but when he received his first solo show at the London Beaux Arts Gallery in 1956, one critic described it as “the most exciting and impressive first one-man show by an English painter since Francis Bacon in 1949.” As with Kossoff, his landscapes represent some of his finest works, from Mornington Crescent, Summer Morning, to the studies of the crater-like bomb sites around St Paul’s which, he made in the 1940s and 1950s. Another artist from a striking though entirely different background, is Hampstead-born Michael Rothenstein (1908-1993), son of the celebrated painter and arts writer Sir William Rothenstein. The younger Rothenstein would make his name as a print-maker, pioneering new approaches, including the use of found objects – often retrieved from rubbish dumps – as well as plaster, metal and fabrics. He also became a member of the Great Bardfield arts community – though he personally resisted use of the term – which had gathered in the 1930s in the small north Essex village around Edward Ravilious and Edward Bawden. Ravilious, tragically, had been killed in a flight accident in the Second World War, but Bawden remained as the arts figurehead at Great Bardfield, encouraging Rothenstein to take up lino cutting. His elder brother John Rothenstein wrote three volumes on Modern English Painters between 1952 and 1974, which did much to bring into the spotlight several overlooked artists. Many of the names in the Ben Uri show would not have made it into those lofty tomes, but their contribution to 100 years of art is hardy of less merit, and they are fully deserving of their place in Ben Uri’s centenary celebration. n
No Set Rules: a century of selected works on paper from the Schlee Collection, Southampton, and Ben Uri Collection Until 14 June 108A Boundary Road, NW8 benuri.org.uk
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IN THE BAG Olivia Palermo is so well-known for being a style icon that her other work is often forgotten. For the past few years, she has been involved with ADCAM, a charity that works to develop cooperation projects and social responsibility initiatives, and this year Olivia continues her support with the launch of a limited-edition handbag in collaboration with Aspinal of London. The brand’s Marylebone tote has been recreated in Amazon brown mock-croc leather and brown calf hair, finished with a dusty pink suede lining and gold hardware. It comes complete with chargers for iPhones and iPads, making it the ideal accessory for women on the go. It’s limited to just 30 pieces and 100 per cent of proceeds will go to ADCAM.
Olivia Palermo Marylebone tote, £995, aspinaloflondon.com
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STYLE Update HELLO SUNSHINE With summer just within reach, the bikini body countdown has begun. Thankfully, Hermès recently launched a new swimwear collection to make the first beach or pool moment of the season a little less daunting. The enviable edit includes printed bikinis and cut-out swimsuits in block colours and printed designs, as well as some of the brand’s prestigious prints, including Les Coupes, Coaching and Les Lettres d’Hermès. It’s not all about swimwear, though – treat yourself to a new beach towel, or cover up with a kaftan, sarong or lightweight jacket.
From £350 155 New Bond Street, W1S
HAPPY FEET It’s rare to utter the names of the late YSL muse Loulou de la Falaise and pop sensation Pharrell in the same sentence, but the unlikely duo are the inspiration behind Aquazzura’s new collection, Pop Jungle. Combining Falaise’s love of fashion and Pharrell’s snappy street-inspired style, Aquazzura has released a series of sandals, courts and trainers. The line offers contemporary styles with a bohemian edge, while low-topped trainers take inspiration from the Adidas Stan Smiths.
From £380, selfridges.co.uk
TOTES AMAZING Often the envy of the office for her collection of beautiful handbags, Marylebone-based designer Manuela Rabener swapped her management consultancy role for a job better suited to her eye for style. Now she is launching her first series of luxury handbags under the name Ella Rabener. The spring line offers a range of leather totes and clutch bags with rosegold hardware and hand-carved wooden zip-pullers. There are only 100 bags per style – so get them before they’re gone.
From £389, ellarabener.com
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A STITCH IN TIME
50 SHADES OF MAY Never one to shy away from colour, Jonathan Saunders has adorned his debut eyewear collection in myriad hues for SS15. The range of 29 sunglasses sport a palette taken directly from this season’s ready-to-wear collection – a mismatch of block colours and tortoiseshell prints. The spring line highlights include chunky frames and aviators in preppy designs, available for men and women.
British brand Goat is known for making the kind of clean-cut wardrobe staples that sartorial dreams are made of, but this season it’s moving away from a traditionally simple palette. Goat will be embracing embroidery for the first time, with a dress and a skirt decorated with a hand-sewn floral motif. Made from 100 per cent silk organza, the intricate designs feature a light blue pattern with green leaves on a crisp white background.
From £460, goatfashion.com
From £180, liberty.co.uk
PUPPY LOVE Jimmy Choo’s latest collection has a rather unusual origin. After seeing artist Rafael Mantesso’s photographs of his English bull terrier – who is coincidentally named Jimmy Choo – creative director Sandra Choi commissioned him to create a series of designs for the brand. The new collection launches this month, featuring matte white tote bags, cosmetic and handbag pouches and iPhone accessories adorned with three exclusive prints starring Mantesso’s pooch. Jimmy Choo is also launching two dog collars to celebrate the collaboration.
From £50, available from 15 May, 27 New Bond Street, W1S
NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Harrods has welcomed Elie Tahari to its fourth floor Fashion Lab, where it will stock the SS15 collection, accessories and sportswear. The space will include midcentury furniture by Thomas Noguchi and Hans Wegner, as well as photographs of the latest campaign shot by Steven Klein, and starring model Hilary Rhoda. The new line features casual styles in linen, gauze and distressed leather, including printed eyelet dresses and midi skirts with sheer panelling.
From £70, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X
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In the
hot seat As L.K.Bennett launches its latest collaboration with British model Laura Bailey, Olivia Sharpe considers the secret behind the brand’s enduring success
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lthough many high street retailers struggled to stay afloat during recent tough economic conditions, L.K.Bennett has always managed to rise above its competitors and succeed in the face of adversity. Since it was first founded by Linda Bennett back in 1990, it has expanded its presence in the UK from one to 43 standalone stores (not including concessions), with more than 130 branded locations worldwide. The reason? While it has maintained a strong product offering throughout, it cannot be denied that L.K.Bennett has greatly benefited from its famous female fan base and recent high-profile collaborators. A few years ago, there was some speculation that the once-dubbed “queen of the kitten heel” brand (due to its blend of comfort and glamour) was in danger of being kicked off its throne, with queen of retail Mary Portas labelling it as “boring” in an article for The Daily Telegraph back in 2010. But then the ‘Kate effect’ swept over the nation and L.K.Bennett was just one of the high street retailers to benefit from this unofficial royal brand ambassador, with sales for its classic nude sledge heels reported to have skyrocketed after she was seen sporting them. L.K.Bennett seems fully aware of the power of women such as the Duchess of Cambridge in helping to boost brand awareness and sales. Shortly after opening its first New York flagship store in 2012 (its second store opened last month on Madison Avenue), L.K.Bennett US president Tony DiMasso was quoted in an interview with The Guardian as saying how the company had a lot to thank the Duchess for, given its sudden surge in popularity: “Kate Middleton is an elegant lady, she wears our clothing and our shoes very well, and the American public are infatuated with her, which has definitely helped us, being new to the American market. The great press we’ve received because of her has helped people come to the store and see the brand.” And it’s not just the Duchess of Cambridge who has helped transform the brand’s persona. In 2013, L.K.Bennett partnered with Tank magazine’s fashion editor Caroline Issa to create a collection of Thaiinspired shoes and handbags, which was an instant sell-
out. Speaking to Issa a couple of years later as to why she agreed to partner with the brand, she explains how, in her opinion, L.K.Bennett sets itself apart from many other womenswear retailers by tapping into what its female customers actually want: “I relate to the brand’s offering of a range of products that can take a woman from day-to-night, as well as giving her a lot of comfort for great value so she can go about her day without thinking about what she’s wearing but knowing she looks great.” Rather than standing still in the everchanging retail market, she believes that L.K.Bennett has “always responded quickly to the critical trends while staying true to its brand DNA,” and this is why it has maintained its lasting appeal. Just a year later, Issa was succeeded by another influential British female – actress Rosamund Pike, who fronted the brand’s SS13 and AW14 campaigns and created a capsule collection of handbags. With her English rose beauty, classic style and Hollywood stardom, L.K.Bennett could not have hoped for a better ambassador and during this exciting time, the retailer’s then chief executive Didier Drouet was reported saying how both partnerships (Issa and Pike) were indicative of the team’s commitment to transforming L.K.Bennett into “a truly global brand”. Somewhat surprisingly, both women were complete novices when it came to fashion design but whatever experience they lacked they clearly more than made up for when it came to helping the brand’s public persona.
Opposite page: Laura wears Silvana blue white, £245 Left: Bella yellow blue, £275; Monica navy yellow, £275
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This year, the retailer has teamed up with model, writer and British Fashion Council ambassador Laura Bailey on a capsule collection for SS15. The collection is, in many ways, quintessentially L.K.Bennett, with elegant, classic and easy-to-wear shoe styles designed for the sophisticated and mature woman. Saying that, Laura Bailey has undoubtedly injected her own style and personality into the range, presenting a collection that combines “timeless understated glamour with a modern edge”. Unlike Issa and Pike, Bailey already had design experience, having created her first handbag collection with Radley (for whom she had served as a model) in 2012, which was well-received. This time round, Bailey was expected to turn out a collection of footwear, and she comments how she was heavily involved with the process from start to finish: “I loved working creatively with the team, from the initial mood boards to the fast samples, shoots to sales,” she says. “I relied on the technical expertise of the L.K.Bennett team to realise my vision in developing a collection that is simultaneously nostalgic and modern.” Bailey’s many visits to the glamorous Amalfi Coast during her lifetime was the main inspiration. Whether “riding a Vespa from Positano to Ravello” as the more carefree young model did in her early 20s, or more recently, time spent there on “family holidays or stolen weekends”, the enduring beauty of the coastline has
never failed to capture her imagination. This sense of timelessness led Bailey to consider iconic actresses of Italian cinema, such as Monica Vitti, Sophia Loren and Anna Magnani, as her muses. For Bailey, it was essential for “the designs to be as chic and brave as the iconic actresses and landscapes I was inspired by” and the collection therefore features a “clash of bold prints and solids, brights and neutrals, matte and shine” that is reminiscent of the 60s and early 70s. Always ensuring practicality, the collection includes five classic styles – incorporating a statement blockheeled sandal, a pointed cross-over strap sandal, an ankle-strap kitten heel, a playful summer flat and a sharp-pointed stiletto – each of which has been cleverly designed to be worn on either the streets of London or the sands of Capri. It also includes a trusty clutch to complete the range of summer holiday essentials. For Bailey, it is almost next to impossible to choose her favourite style (“I change my mind all the time”) but if she had to pick one, it would be the navy and red Claudia shoe coming in a high chunky heel and a “flattering” ankle crossstrap. Commenting on her own style, Bailey admits that she is fairly changeable – “more spontaneous in the moment depending on my mood and circumstance” – but if she had to sum it up, she would describe it as being a mix of English eccentric and tomboy princess. Saying that, Bailey astutely observes that true style is one that “defies labels and simply reflects the personality and the moment”. This is no doubt why, then, Bailey chose to partner with a brand that has never sought to follow trends but has instead always looked to the changing personality and lifestyle of its female customer. Like Pike and Issa, the prospect of a collaboration with L.K.Bennett “proved irresistible”, strongly relating to the model with its “classic but cool, romantic luxe” and for “representing the best of British style”. With endorsements such as this, L.K.Bennett is well and truly back on its retail throne. My only thought is, who’s next in line? n
“True style defies labels and simply reflects the personality and the moment” – Laura Bailey
Shoes range from £195 to £295, with the clutch at £275 94 Marylebone High Street, W1U; lkbennett.com
L-R: Rosamund Pike AW13 campaign; Claudia navy red, £295; Bella navy red, £275; Opposite page: Laura wears Claudia navy red, £295
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Dress, POA, Giles, giles-deacon.com; Earrings, ÂŁ310, Amrapali, amrapalijewels.com
express orient
Embrace popping poolside prints and flowing silhouettes inspired by the East Photography / Rachell Smith stylist / Elizabeth Hoadly
ABOVE Dress, £750, Carven, carven.com; Necklace, £145, Pebble London, pebblelondon.com
RIGHT Jacket, £530, Marina Rinaldi, gb.marinarinaldi.com; Skirt, £1,600, Erdem, net-a-porter.com; Belt, £62, Elizabeth Kelly, etsy.com; Shoes, £450, Brian Atwood, net-a-porter.com
ABOVE Jacket, £1,200, and skirt, £975, both Simone Rocha, simonerocha.com
LEFT Body, £296, La Perla, laperla.com; Trousers, made to order, Zeyneptosun, zeyneptosun.com; Hat, £585, Sophie Beale, sophiebealemillinery.com; Belt, £62, Elizabeth Kelly, as before; Clutch bag, £2,495, Alexander McQueen, alexandermcqueen.com
Top, £1,115, and trousers, £1,502, both Antonio Berardi, antonioberardi.com; Earrings, £250, Amrapali, as before
ABOVE Dress, POA, Dolce & Gabbana, dolcegabbana.com Clutch bag, £2,095, Alexander McQueen, as before; Shoes, POA, Dolce & Gabbana, as before; Belt, £62, Elizabeth Kelly, as before
RIGHT Dress, £8,370, Julian Macdonald, julienmacdonald.com; Shoes, £620, Aquazzura, aquazzura.com; Cuff, £590, Dior, dior.com
HAIR: Davide Barberi Using Catwalk by TIGI make-up: Harriet Hadfield Using Becca NAIL TECH: Stephanie Staunton @ David Artists MODEL: Brittni Tucker @ Premier Model Management photographer's assistant: Benny Johnson retoucher: Sandra Ojuri Shot on location at: Vila Vita Parc, Portugal, vilavitaparc.com Stay at VILA VITA Parc in a Deluxe Room from €405 (£293) per room per night, room only, including VAT at the current legal taxes Monarch operates flights to Faro from London Gatwick and London Luton with fares, including taxes, starting from £39.99 one way (£66.98 return). For further information or to book Monarch flights, Monarch Holidays or Monarch Hotels, visit monarch.co.uk
From L-R: Chanel RTW SS15, photography by Oliver Saillant; Vivienne Westwood; Walter Van Beirendonck AW14
HEART ON YOUR SLEEVE With the countdown to the general election underway, political parties are gaining support from the most stylish of fans. As Vivienne Westwood pledges allegiance to the Green Party, Ellen Millard explores the role of politics in fashion
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s the general election approaches, the nation waits with baited breath to see who will guide us through the next five years, while party leaders tread carefully so as to avoid a fatal blunder at the last hurdle. At this stage in the game, appearance is everything. If kitchengate taught us anything – other than the fact that Ed Miliband has two rooms entirely dedicated to culinary activities – it’s that the electorate takes no prisoners. Anything as small as a bacon sandwich to a passing comment about a future term can result in weeks of criticism, so it was surprising that David Cameron chose this time to debut his new pair of Chelsea boots. Having previously rocked the boat with his loafers-and-bare-feet combo, Cameron left the sartorial crowd scratching their heads when he paired the shoes with a suit and tie at the unveiling of the Mahatma Gandhi statue in Parliament Square. Luckily for the Tory leader the boots were given the seal of approval, an unusual outcome for a man whose wardrobe rarely toes the fashion line. In fact, politicians in general seldom grace the best dressed lists, but as Cameron’s footwear debacle shows, their attire does not go unnoticed. Russian President Vladimir Putin has often been criticised for his array of unusual outfits, the most notable being in 2007 when he was seen stripped to the waist in khaki combat trousers and a canvas hat while fishing in the Yenisei River. More recently, the Chancellor of Germany Angela Merkel graced the pages of online fashion bible Style.com, which critiqued her 18-yearold tunic. Noah Johnson writes: “Her commitment to thriftiness, modesty, and uniform dressing should make Germans proud, even if the pattern on this particular kimono makes her look more like a Nickelodeon character than a head of state.” In the denim corner, Barack Obama took a hit for his rather unflattering ‘dad jeans’, while in the Brit camp David Cameron’s penchant for blue shirts came under scrutiny after he wore his favourite navy number on eight different holidays. In light of this, perhaps it’s a positive that fashion and politics rarely cross paths, although fashion historian (and author of new book Nautical Chic) Amber Jane Butchart says there’s more to a politician’s wardrobe than meets the eye. “You can tell a lot about someone from the way they dress, and politicians can be very canny about this,” she says. “It would be inappropriate
for a politician to dress in an expensive bespoke Savile Row suit during a time of austerity, for example. It’s a fine line that politicians have to tread between looking smart and authoritative but not looking out of touch.” And it doesn’t end with our heads of state; how the electorate dress is a clear sign of political and social mood. In the early 1900s, Paul Poiret freed women from their corsets and has since been celebrated as a pioneer of the Women’s Liberation Movement. Dubbed at the time as the ‘King of Fashion’, Poiret’s move towards an androgynous silhouette was intrinsic to fashion at a time of war, industrialisation and evolving social movements for women. The ability to move freely was a necessity, and although he personally commented that the design was an aesthetic choice rather than a cultural one, Poiret granted women the chance to work without restriction. Designers reflecting social mood isn’t unusual, and is in fact to be expected, says Butchart. “During the time of the Suffragettes, many department stores created designs with this specific cause in mind, creating items that could be worn on protests and to demonstrate allegiance to the cause,” she comments. “Fashion, like all art and design, is a product of its time and culture – it doesn’t exist in a vacuum. Cultural trends will always be reflected back to us in the way we dress.” A lady with a history of feather ruffling, Vivienne Westwood has often used her designs to comment on social issues, and is frequently found at the forefront of political debate. Whether it’s designing a dress to protest against fracking, or demonstrating her commitment to the cause by attempting to deliver a box of asbestos to David Cameron, the designer is relentless in her bid to share her latest opinion, and recently showed support for the Green Party by way of a £300,000 donation. The original anarchist, who described herself in a recent interview as “the only punk left, actually”, has been championing political activism through her work since her sartorial debut in 1971. For her SS15 ready-to-wear show, the designer marched her models down the catwalk wearing ‘yes’ badges in support of the Scottish National Party and its stance on the Scottish referendum, while her punk days were a call to end the “corrupt and mismanaged” world. “I was about 36 when punk happened and I was upset about what was going on in the world,” she told Harper’s Bazaar. “It was the hippies who taught my generation about politics, and that’s what I cared about – the world being so corrupt and mismanaged, people suffering, wars, all these terrible things.”
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Since then she’s continued to express her opinions through her designs. In 2008, she partnered with her son and CEO of Agent Provocateur Joseph Corré to produce a campaign for human rights charity Reprieve called ‘Fair Trial My Arse’, which protested against the treatment of prisoners at Guantánamo Bay. This year, the designer wrote a pamphlet called ‘End Capitalism’, in which she attributes her support for the Green Party to its ‘pro-community’ stance. Westwood’s designer peers have been keen to throw in their political two cents, too. Ed Vaisey, who at the time of print was a Tory MP and the Minister for Culture and the Digital Economy, recalls an iconic moment: “Fashion as a vehicle for political protests is not something I have witnessed personally, but of course the iconic photo of Katharine Hamnett wearing a T-shirt saying ‘58% Don’t Want Pershing” while being introduced to Mrs Thatcher is still reproduced 30 years later – which perhaps shows why people use fashion as a vehicle for political protest,” he explains. More recently, Pam Hogg’s AW14 show entitled ‘COURAGE’ was commissioned by Amnesty International and dedicated to Pussy Riot. It was shown three weeks prior to London Fashion Week, which coincided with the opening of the Sochi Games. “I’m not politically outspoken but I constantly make statements in my work. Fashion to me is the future and to a certain degree it’s art, so for me it has to say something,” Pam Hogg told Hunger TV. “I’m aware of what’s going on around me, there’s so much inequality in the world, and I feel that you have to make a protest in whichever way you can, when you can.” For other designers, fashion week has been a chance to protest against long-standing issues. Walter Van Beirendonck borrowed Stephen Jones’ feather headdress for his AW14 show and branded it with the slogan ‘stop racism’, while Ashish Gupta was given a round of applause for his sequined rainbow T-shirt emblazoned with ‘love will win’. Chanel’s SS15 show ended with a mock demonstration that saw models waving signs promoting feminist campaign ‘He for She’, with slogans like ‘Make Fashion, Not War’, and ‘History is Her Story’. Big names in retail and fashion journalism have also offered their take on social issues. For its SS14 campaign, Barneys New York partnered with the LGBT Community and used transgender models from various ethnicities, donating 10 per cent of its flagship sales to the community centre in New York City and the National Centre for Transgender Equality. Closer to home, Selfridges recently opened its Agender space, an area of its store aimed at ‘genderless’ fashion, while the British edition of Elle produced a ‘feminism issue’ in December 2014 for which famous faces, including Nick
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From L-R: Ashish AW14; Vivienne Westwood SS15
Clegg and Ed Miliband, wore a Whistles slogan T-shirt reading ‘this is what a feminist looks like’ (although the production of the T-shirts caused its own controversy). With all this in mind, there’s no doubt that fashion and politics are hugely influential to one another. They may not go hand-in-hand but the two undoubtedly intertwine. Politicians aren’t the most stylish bunch, but their wardrobes are carefully chosen to match the social mood, while designers are constantly reflecting cultural trends through their work. As the buzz dies around kitchengate and Cameron’s boots, attention falls on the matter at hand: who will run the country for the next five years? At the time of print, we’re still three weeks away from the general election and no closer to finding out. If there’s one thing for sure, it’s that a deluge of sartorial geniuses await the answer, armed with enough fabric and thread to weave their own manifesto and win the nation’s hearts. Politics might not be fashionable, but fashion is definitely political, and that at least has got my vote. n
PR ADO settee with cushion & EVERY WHERE sideboard. Design: Christian Werner. LUMIĂˆRE NOIRE floor lamps. Design: Philippe Nigro.
23-25 Mortimer Street London W1T 3JE 0207 323 1248 www.ligne-roset-westend.co.uk
animal instinct Photography / ian walsh styling / Vanissa Antonious
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1. Python bag, £1,795, Bally, bally.com 2. Shoes, £770, Chloé, net-a-porter.com 3. Bag, £595, Jimmy Choo, jimmychoo.com 4. Bag, £615, Dries Van Noten, mytheresa.com 5. Shoes, £400, Acne, net-a-porter.com 6. Sandal, £364, Dries Van Noten, as before 7. Cuff, £385, Isabel Marant, net-a-porter.com
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best of May
1. In celebration of its 25th birthday, Elemis has created a super-sized version of its hero product, the Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm. The bestseller holds a concoction of 11 naturally sourced essential oils which effectively remove make-up and dirt. Lavender, eucalyptus and geranium make up the fragrance, while soothing your skin at the same time. The updated balm comes in a 200g pot with an engraved lid.
£55, Elemis, elemis.com 2. Dolce & Gabbana’s latest beauty offering is a collection entirely devoted to the colour red. The Dolce Matte Lipstick range comes in 13 shades of rouge inspired by the brand’s runway collection, from pink tones and bright oranges to burgundy hues. For a classic look try Dolce Passion, or if you’re feeling brave, opt for a brighter tone like Dolce Fire.
£26.50, Dolce & Gabbana, harrods.com 3. After the success of Guerlain’s Terracotta Joli Teint foundation, the brand has launched a powder equivalent designed to give skin a healthy glow. The compact comprises two shades that, when blended, brighten the complexion and leave skin looking fresh and sun-kissed. The powder comes in four tones for all skin types and with a freesia and orange blossom scent.
From £35.50, Guerlain, guerlain.com
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4. Bobbi Brown hails eyebrows as the “unsung hero of the face”, which is probably why her latest product is a Long-Wear Brow Pencil, a dual-end tool with 16-hour staying power. Its durability is down to its wax base, which is not only waterproof and humidity resistant, but also acts as a barrier to sweat. Available in eight colours, the pencil can be used to create a soft look using the flat edge, or for a defined brow use the pointed tip.
£29.50, Bobbi Brown, bobbi-brown.co.uk 5. Tom Ford has launched its new range for summer, the Soleil collection, which is all about golden hues, metallic shades and luminous skin. For a summer glow without the air miles, try Tom Ford’s Shimmering Body Oil, a lightweight formula that illuminates skin with gold and platinum leaf, while giving off a fragrance of white flowers and amber sandalwood. The line also covers eyeshadows, blushers, lipsticks and bronzers.
£68, Tom Ford, selfridges.com
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THE WORLD’S FIRST IN-STORE DNA TEST FOR PERSONALISED SKINCARE GENEU use their award winning in-store DNA test to analyse your skin’s DNA and discover precisely what it needs. Experience GENEU and leave the flagship store with bespoke anti-ageing skincare, uniquely recommended to ensure your skin receives the suitable active ingredients and concentrations in order to promote healthy looking skin. Learn more on our YouTube channel: ‘GENEU Beauty’ 65 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON
020 7499 7161
GENEU.COM
beauty Update IN VOGUE Last year, the grandson of Diana Vreeland created a fragrance collection in memory of the former Vogue editor-in-chief, inspired by her bold personality and her heritage. Now, a sixth fragrance has been added to the Diana Vreeland Parfums collection. Designed by Clement Gavarry, Smashingly Brilliant is a citrusy concoction of lemon oil and Calabrian bergamot inspired by Mrs Vreeland’s love of Italy. The fragrance is packaged in a sapphire blue bottle and adorned with a green tassel, in homage to her passion for colour.
£180, selfridges.com
CHASE THE RAINBOW It was all about blending colour at this season’s Dior show, a theme that its beauty arm has wholeheartedly taken on board. The summer line sports a kaleidoscope of shades inspired by tie-dye prints and features lipsticks, eye shadow and nail varnish in jewel tones and nude hues. Our favourite is the Nude Tan Tie Dye blusher; available in two colourways – the blush fuses four pigments to create a sunkissed look.
£24, dior.com
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HANG ON TO YOUR HAT
SUMMER TIME
Milliner to the stars Philip Treacy has partnered with MAC to create a limited edition 12-piece collection of lipsticks, blushers and eye gels in shades that complement his illustrious designs. Inspired by his own work, Treacy’s collection has three themes: metallic, colourful and gothic. The collaboration features pinks, reds and bright blues, all of which have been designed to enhance your facial features when paired with one of Treacy’s striking headpieces.
Capturing Gabrielle Chanel’s love of the Riviera, Chanel’s new beauty line is a vibrant collection designed to flatter sunkissed skin. Calling on sea blue waves, 1920s fashion and a tanned complexion for inspiration, the range offers a bright palette of summer colours to get you beach ready. Cure your London weather blues with a swipe of the new nail varnish collection, available in turquoise, lavender or poppy red.
From £15.50, maccosmetics.co.uk
THE VIP TREATMENT It’s safe to say life would be a lot easier if we all had our own personal make-up artist. Fortunately for us, Harrods’ Urban Retreat is bringing the dream one step closer to reality with its new department, The Make-Up Salon. Here, expert artists with an extensive knowledge of all Harrods’ brands provide a range of special event make-up and bespoke lessons, including a bridal consultation and a red carpet experience, for which you’re given your very own styling team.
From £35, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X
OLD FLAME Pop down to Selfridges this month to visit its new Jo Malone counter in the home and interiors department. While you’re there, pick up the latest White Lilac and Rhubarb candle, a charity wick with a scent likened to the early bloom of a summer garden. For each one sold, the brand will donate the equivalent sum to several charity gardens across the UK, including a new community space in Manchester in partnership with the Whitworth Art Gallery, which works alongside adults who live with mental health problems. It certainly passes the smell test.
From £18, available from 8 May chanel.com
BRAINS BEFORE BEAUTY There are few things more annoying than when your favourite beauty product is discontinued. With this in mind, Harvey Nichols has launched a range of bespoke smart beauty services that allow you to customise your make-up. Eyeko’s exclusive mascara bar offers the world’s first personalised mascara service, while the Custom Blended Lipstick Concierge lets you design your own shade, so you can have your favourite products even if they’re no longer in production.
Harvey Nichols, 109-195 Knightsbridge, SW1X
£42, jomalone.co.uk
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style
Under the sea
Lauren Romano gets wrapped in pungent, cellulite-blasting seaweed at The Landmark London’s spa
M
idway through my Tangle Me Up Body Wrap, smothered from neck-to-toe in organic seaweed and bandaged in a huge reel of muslin, I wonder if I look a little like a mummified member of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. The unlikely sounding treatment, which uses a range of VOYA seaweed-based formulas, is The Landmark London’s antidote to the swiftly approaching bikini season. With a trip to Venice on the horizon and a body that’s been in hibernation beneath polo neck jumpers and woolly tights since September, I can do with all the help I can get – even if that does mean I bear a temporary resemblance to Michelangelo and co. Tucked away beneath the hotel’s soaring, light-flooded atrium, the spa is a compact warren, which winds around to an inviting, chlorine-free pool. As my therapist, the lovely Antonella, ushers me into the low-lit treatment room, she wastes no time in presenting a pot of dubious looking algae, and wafting it under my
nose. Fresh from the rock pools of Co. Sligo on Ireland’s wild Atlantic coast (not the pool), it smells faintly swamp-like, but I’ve heard that it does wonders for eradicating cellulite and improving skin tone and elasticity, so I make allowances. Founded by the Waltons, the brand was inspired by the organic seaweed baths that were once a popular ritual in their hometown of Strandhill. Listening to Antonella recounting her recent visit
during a seaweed harvest, the set-up makes the Irish Waltons sound just as wholesome as their fictional American counterparts. Introductions over, a few minutes later brisk strokes of a horse-hair bristled brush work their way up my body. It’s a slightly ticklish, but pleasant sensation, like finally scratching that niggling itch on your back. With all patches of dry skin sloughed off, it’s time for the warmed seaweed. Once applied it sets to work instantly with an energising tingle, as I’m wrapped up tight like a sushi roll. As I have sensitive skin I’m always wary of trying new treatments, but the natural components and organic essential oils provide a completely soothing layer of moisture, which even my easily aggravated limbs takes to. Nestled under layers of cloth, I momentarily drift off to a pressure point targeting head message as I wait for the wrap to work its magic. Twenty minutes later I plod to the shower, walking with a gait as wide as the Michelin Man, and shedding crusty green debris behind me. Once the formula is
rinsed off, my skin feels smoother than it has ever been before. To lock in even more moisture, Antonella massages in a layer of Softly Does It moisturiser, before leading me to the relaxation room for a cup of lemon tea. Here, I immediately shrug off any pretence of hitting the treadmill at the gym in the next room. I momentarily consider doing a few laps of the deserted pool, but eventually I decide to save my first bikini moment for a sun lounger on a Venetian rooftop, where, who knows, I might bump into a real life Michelangelo.n
VOYA Tangle Me Up Body Wrap from £90, 222 Marylebone Road, NW1, landmarklondon.co.uk
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Lilou et Lo誰c L O N D O N
S I Z E D O E S M AT T E R . . .
3kg Scented Candle From The Emperor Collection
www.lilouetloic.com
Suppliers of quality bespoke doors and ironmongery to some of the UK’s finest homes. Showrooms: Esher, Surrey & Chelsea Harbour 01932 851 081 or 0207 376 7000 info@solidwoodendoors.com www.solidwoodendoors.com
interiors
wish list
Perfect poise Described by its creator Sir Kenneth Grange as a “minor miracle of balance”, the Anglepoise Type 75 lamp has joined the company’s distinguished ranks as a design classic. Sticking to its modernist roots, the brand has gone big for the launch of the Type 75 Maxi collection. Comprising a floor lamp – complete with the trademark adjustable frame – and a matching pendant, the functional designs make full use of nifty tension spring technology, and can be easily manoeuvred to create the desired ambiance. Style, with a whole lot of substance.
Floor lamp £750, pendant £180 anglepoise.com
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Interiors inspiration Chez Meroni Founded in 1970 by the Meroni family, furniture brand Lema has stood the test of time having just opened its first London flagship store. The King’s Road arrival brings the clean lines and understated aesthetic the interiors house is renowned for to the capital. Arranged over two floors, the space will showcase the latest Lema Casa range alongside a bespoke atelier where visitors can develop tailor-made solutions for large-scale projects.
lemamobili.com/en
Life aquatic
Scarlett fever Rather than trawl interiors boutiques for soft furnishings for her Belsize Park flat, local resident Elizabeth Scarlett went one better and designed her own. Her first collection of colourful cushions is inspired by the vivid powder paints and saris she discovered while exploring the vibrant markets of India. The hand painted and delicately embroidered designs come in a range of different sizes and are adorned with elephants and an eye-catching Hamsa motif, believed to bring good fortune, strength and protection against evil.
Cushions from ÂŁ45, stocked at Temptation, 1187 Finchley Road, NW11, elizabethscarlett.com
The seventies have a lot to answer for in terms of interiors. Avocado green bath tubs and garish mustard curtains might prove to some that the decade was one that taste forgot, but nevertheless the period is undergoing a revival. Anyone who wants to add a subtle splash of retro to their homes can invest in some bright tableware from the new Merivuokko range at Skandium. The aquatic themed designs feature abstract sea anemones in bright pops of primary colours.
From ÂŁ16, Skandium, 86 Marylebone High Street, W1U
interiors
Al fresco nights An outdoor dining arrangement to knock the socks off the usual cobwebbed table, chair and parasol combination, the Callanish dining table looks like it could have been lifted from an episode of Game of Thrones (a set of golden goblets and a hog roast would set it off nicely). Made from powdered stone set in resin, the large table comfortably seats 10 and its heavy Romanesque form means it can double as a patio sculpture until the sun decides to put its hat on. Throw in a set of filigree backed Greenwich chairs and Kraak ware plates and take the banquet outside.
Kraak ware plates from £18, Callanish Table £2,600, Greenwich Chair, £365, okadirect.com
ZETTER TOGETHER
The Zetter Townhouse Clerkenwell Club Room, photography by Jefferson Smith
Inspired by the architectural collection of Sir John Soane, with interiors by renowned designer Russell Sage, The Zetter Townhouse will move into Seymour Street this month, making it the latest addition to the slightly barmy boutique hotel family. While The Zetter Townhouse in Clerkenwell (pictured) is known as the home of the group’s Great Aunt Wilhelmina, this 24-bedroom Georgian townhouse belongs to Uncle Seymour, and is crammed with the fictional owner’s eclectic and colourful collections, including hand-designed wallpaper inspired by 18th century crochet patterns and carpets created by overlaying antique rugs. What’s more, cocktail lounge and restaurant Seymour’s Parlour will welcome Marylebone locals on the ground floor of the townhouse, with menus by celebrated French chef Bruno Loubet.
Rooms from £258 28-30 Seymour Street, W1H
Tutti fruity Sofa Workshop has taken inspiration from the rainforest with its latest launch, which incorporates materials from Christian Lacroix’s new fabric collection. Key pieces from the Miss Behaving sofa and footstool range have been decked out in the French fashion designer’s memorable prints. Taking inspiration from a tropical fruit bowl, the statement two-seater sofa is a riot of ripening melons, avocados and kiwi fruit – which beats the usual pinstripes and check any day of the week.
Miss Behaving small sofa in Designers Guild Christian Lacroix Soft Manaos Onyx, £2,899, and Miss Behaving round footstool in Designers Guild Christian Lacroix Barbade Onyx, £549, sofaworkshop.com
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Hampstead garden
Hampstead garden
Regent’s Park Š Peter Baistow
Hampstead courtyard garden
Hampstead garden
interiors
Green
party Unearthing a caravan in the flower bed, landscaping around an elephant sculpture and working with Mr Gardening himself (AKA Sir Alan Titchmarsh); Lauren Romano meets award-wining garden designer Kate Gould
I
t’s not every day that something as monumental as the body of a missing monarch turns up beneath a car park. In fact, you’d imagine that digging up an average patio or patch of tarmac might uncover little more than a mountain of old rubble or the graves of Tom and Jerry the goldfish. Not exactly the stuff that Time Team episodes are made of, but gardener Kate Gould has exhumed her fair share of surprises. “I’ve found fridges, and we discovered an entire flattened caravan once,” she boasts, gleefully. “Not forgetting the time we hit a wall in Hendon, which it turned out, was once part of an air raid shelter. To reinforce the walls the owners had put every scrap of metal they could in it, so it was full of knives, forks, bedsteads – you name it!” Dealing with what lies beneath comes with the territory for Kate. “It took nearly a week to dismantle because it was so well built. Even with all my years of experience I didn’t expect to find a whole canteen of cutlery down there.” A childhood spent pottering in her parents’ north-west London garden might have sowed the seeds to her career path but it was actually a job sequencing commercials that prompted Kate to look for a job plan B. After attending a series of gardening
evening classes she decided to set up her own business. “God, it was hard for the next four or five years,” she admits. “After the evening classes I thought it would be really sensible to just venture forth and go for it!” Her impulsiveness paid off. Seventeen years later, Kate has a glittering selection of RHS Chelsea Flower Show gold medals to her name and has transformed countless back yards and roof terraces of all shapes and sizes, from Primrose Hill to Hampstead. Her steel-toed Doc Martin-clad feet are planted firmly on the ground, however. “I always tell people that I’m probably the least qualified person to show a garden at Chelsea,” she claims. “I don’t have a string of qualifications to my name, but I’ve learned from a lot of other exceptionally talented gardeners.” Does Sir Alan Titchmarsh make it onto this horticultural hit list, I ask? “Ah, yes, Mr Gardening,” she smiles in reference to her collaboration with the green fingered great on a special Chelsea project in 2013. “I got a phone call to see if I would like to work with Alan on a garden called Britain in Bloom,” she says matter of factly of the exchange, which I imagine is the gardening equivalent of Simon Cowell giving you a bell to tell you you’ve made it through to the next round of The X Factor. “Normally if you’re working on a show garden you’d find out way before Christmas, but we only had a couple of months to play with so it was a monumental task.” With moorland and a coastline on Mr T’s wish-list, Kate and her small team were forced to
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“beg, borrow or steal – well, actually, not steal. We did call in every favour known to man though and luckily it was a great success.” Away from the hallowed grounds of Chelsea, Kate’s portfolio in this neck of the woods is extensive, so much so in fact that she’s probably worked her magic on a garden near you. From lush, evergreen borders in Hampstead to a particularly memorable Primrose Hill courtyard, whose centrepiece – Ellie the fibreglass elephant – sits on a basalt plinth, Kate’s briefs can vary wildly. “You never know what you’re going to find before you turn up, or what a client will want for that matter,” she smiles. “One person envisages one thing, but their partner has their heart set on something else,” she sighs. Playing the diplomat is sometimes made trickier by the fact the this is London and having enough outside space to swing anything bigger than a cat in is a rarity. “Often I’ll ask clients to put together a list and then we’ll go through it together. Occasionally you do have to rationalise people’s wishes though; ‘I’m not going to get the hot tub in, so let’s cross that one off,’” she jokes. “My most important task is to interpret the vision that clients have in their heads. After the initial meeting I go away and put together a mood board and we sit down to see if that correlates to what they envisaged.”
Regent’s Park © Peter Baistow
“You can actually stand back and feel like you have achieved something, rather than just sifting through emails; it’s tangible” Despite having anything up to 40 projects at a time in various stages of completion, Kate rarely tires of rolling up her sleeves and getting her hands dirty. “There’s nothing better than doing a day’s gardening,” she insists. “You can actually stand back and feel like you have achieved something, rather than just sifting through emails; it’s tangible. Even now, when I plant seeds I still go back impatiently two days later and shake the pot. I’ve been doing that for nearly 30 years and I’m still excited by it.” As Kate enthuses about her favourite type of plant (salvias, in case you’re wondering) and her love of trees (“they’ll probably be around longer than me and I think that’s really special”) I reveal that I struggle to keep a lowly cress plant alive. Unperturbed, she says that she can make a gardener out of me yet and reasons that once I have my own plot of outdoor space the chances are I’ll probably want to do something with it. But what of her own garden? She laughs, a little nervously. “I actually have one at the office because I live in a flat. When I want to experiment I go to my mum’s in Wembley. We’ve created a real gardeners’ garden with perennials and shrubs – not just the sort of topiary that you have to clip. In a couple of months
Hampstead garden
it’ll be such a riot of colour you’ll probably be able to spot it on Google earth.” A recent gardening tour of the Netherlands was proof to Kate that London has a long way to go until it can compete with its green-fingered Dutch counterparts, who have a penchant for growing vegetables on roofs and other unused urban spaces. Her gold-winning 2013 RHS Chelsea Garden Show entry, The Wasteland, is testament to the fact that a bit of scavenging and innovation (Kate used old bed springs to fashion a garden screen) can help transform derelict corners of the capital into community spaces. “A garden can bring people together. Communities need cohesion and there should be more budget for things like that,” she sighs.
interiors
Regent’s Park © Peter Baistow
Hampstead garden
“Over the years you amass this filing cabinet of images in your head,” Kate says of her own creative influences. She tells me that she starts with the structure – or the bones of the garden – and then adds things according to how the space will be used and where the sun faces. Evergreen topiary-filled gardens are the most popular among her London clients. The interior trend for big bi-folding doors onto outside spaces means “the all-season garden” as Kate calls it, is all the rage. When your name is your business the treadmill can be relentless, but then Kate wouldn’t have it any other way. Even though she insists she never intentionally set out to be her own boss, she jokes that she’s now utterly unemployable by anyone else. I ask her whether she’s encountered any obstacles as a woman walking into the man’s world of building sites and the like. She considers the question thoughtfully. “I think confidence comes with age. The thought of working on site used to intimidate me. Builders are funny; they can do a lot of squaring up of shoulders if they don’t expect you to be there. But you’ve got to learn to hold your own, especially when you need to talk about important things that impact on the interior renovation project too. The key is, if you don’t know, don’t blag it.” Inevitably though, things don’t always go to plan. Like the time 150 slabs were carried up four floors to a roof terrace only to be rejected by the owner and brought back down again, or numerous incidents of lifts breaking down. One of the biggest obstacles, however, is cream carpet. “It’s incredible how many people who don’t have outside access think I’m going to get 52 bags of compost out into the garden without treading on their newly laid carpet. ‘Wait a second, I’ll just stick on my hover boots!’” she laughs.
Kate won’t be showing a garden at Chelsea this year, but she will be helping a friend create a poignant space called the Time in Between as a memory to his late father. But will she return again? “It’s a crazy experience,” she says. “It doesn’t matter if it rains or snows – the show must go on. Of course, it’s a huge rush and terribly addictive,” she adds, hinting that something will hopefully be in the pipeline in the future. “When you drive past the centre when the show isn’t on it looks so small. Come May though it’s like Brigadoon – it appears out of nowhere. “Chelsea is brilliant because it’s the only time you ever really have a mass audience and people will come up and tell you whether they like something or not. I met a wonderful lady once who was very elderly and in a wheelchair, although she looked like a tough cookie – the sort of woman who’d probably crossed the Sahara on a camel in her day. When she passed my garden she looked up at the girl pushing her and said, ‘this isn’t for me. Wheel me on!’ It was brilliant; I admired her honesty.” Although Kate is based in Radlett, she confides that she will always have a soft spot for Hampstead and the surrounding greenery and visits whenever her gruelling schedule allows. “It’s not unusual for me to work from 7am to 9pm, so if I have a friends’ birthday or last minute plans that demand something a little chicer than my overalls, I’ll nip into Brent Cross and the shop assistants will look at me like I’m the creature from the black lagoon. Then I’ll get back into the car and spot the random twigs in my hair. The perils of being a garden designer,” she laughs. That and having to decide what to do with a flattened caravan. n
kategouldgardens.com
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The Emilia
Classic, Elegant & Sophisticated
www.icandyworld.com
fa m i ly
wish list
NICE DAY FOR A WHITE WEDDING Calling all brides-to-be: solve your bridesmaid and page boy worries in one fell swoop with AlexandAlexa’s new department, the Wedding Shop. Nicknamed the Net-A-Porter for under 14-year-olds, it’s the place to go for trendy kids about town. With an array of designer dresses and suits for children, the site is now also the new go-to for future husbands and wives who want one less thing to worry about.
alexandalexa.com
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nurserynews back to basics Hampstead’s La Coqueta is a favourite among local trendy tots, with its Spanish-made designs and on-site playroom (the ideal distraction for anti-retail therapy toddlers). This season, founder Celia Muñoz has gone back to basics with classic shapes in spring colours. Peter Pan collars, floral dresses and Liberty print accessories are on offer for girls, while the boy’s collection teems with checked shirts and chinos. Hola!
From £12, 5 Heath Street, NW3
VINTAGE REVIVAL
Master of Parisian chic Petit Bateau has launched its summer collection, which features sugar almond pastel shades inspired by painters Simon Hantaï and Jacques Demy. The range offers floral prints and checked patterns on babygros, floaty dresses and summer separates. The collection also plays to Petit Bateau’s iconic nautical theme with sail-boat prints and signature Breton striped designs.
Coco and Wolf founder Amy Hemmings-Batt started making clothes while pregnant with her daughter. From there her business flourished; combining a love of Liberty of London fabrics and vintage-inspired design, Coco and Wolf offers bespoke children’s clothing handmade in England. With an emphasis on corduroy and heritage prints, the brand is fast becoming known for its stylish yet comfortableto-wear offerings.
From £14, petit-bateau.co.uk
From £12, cocoandwolf.com
SAIL AWAY
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THESE SHOES WERE MADE FOR WALKING
SUMMER LOVING When Caramel Baby & Child founder Eva Karayiannis set out to create her luxury childrenswear brand, she wanted to make clothes that were both simple and durable – and that’s just what she did. The SS15 collection is a mix of vintage-inspired designs for boys and girls in a trio of colour themes, comprising summer citrus hues, bright oranges and sea blues. The range also features block colours, floral prints and checked patterns on lightweight fabrics.
Worn by Danish royalty, footwear brand Angulus has won awards for its Scandinavian-inspired designs. The latest collection includes summer shoes in bright yellows, pinks, metallics and tan. Made with plantation crepe rubber for durability and calf leather for comfort, the designs have a unique shape (we love these Angulus sandals in tan) that allows children's feet to move and grow.
From £17, 4 Denman Place, Ham Yard, W1D
From £69, kidsen.co.uk
EAGLE-EYED Kids clothing company Elfie has joined forces with stylist and creative director Alex Eagle to create an 11-piece capsule collection, offering timeless designs in a traditional palette of burgundy and navy blue. Combining Alex's design knowledge (check out her eponymous concept store come gallery for further proof) and Elfie’s quirky clothing, shoppers can expect reversible dungarees, Breton-striped knitwear and ruffle collar dresses. The collection is the first in a series of collaborations between the two.
From £36, elfielondon.com
ONE TO CHERISH Dragons of Walton Street was founded more than 30 years ago, and has been crafting British-made children’s furniture ever since. The brand offers more than 200 products, all of which are hand-painted with water-based paints and acrylics. The stars of the show include luxury Moses baskets and character collections, which are decorated with well-known designs from the likes of Beatrix Potter and Paddington Bear. The company's new season collection also caters for those who prefer a more traditional nursery, with offerings such as this beautiful Cherish cotbed complete with corona drapes.
£4,995, dragonsofwaltonstreet.com
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150 YEARS DOWN THE
“I RABBIT
HOLE It’s not every day you turn 150. So it’s no surprise that designers are pulling out all the stops to mark the milestone anniversary of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Ellen Millard finds out who’s doing what to celebrate Lewis Carroll’s iconic tome
knew who I was this morning, but I’ve changed a few times since then,” said Alice, in the original Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Writing in 1865, Lewis Carroll was referring to his character’s personality, but 150 years later, the comment rings true for her appearance, too. Alice’s famous blonde locks, blue dress and white apron are what usually come to mind when thinking of her Disney-pixelated incarnation, but her style has been reworked and adapted hundreds of times by designers worldwide. This month, the Victoria and Albert Museum of Childhood opens its latest exhibition, The Alice Look, which explores the character’s vast influence on popular culture, and her various transformations. “Alice has inspired generation after generation of artists across the world: writers, composers, choreographers, film makers, fashion designers and more,” enthuses the exhibition’s curator Kiera Vaclavik. “We wanted to explore some of Alice’s many looks over the years and in different parts of the world, and to show how many other designers and stylists have also been inspired by Carroll’s heroine.” The earliest version of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland was dreamt up on a boat trip to Oxford in 1862. Accompanied by his friend Henry Liddell’s
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From L-R: Limited edition Royal Mail stamps illustrated by Grahame Baker-Smith; Original illustration by John Tenniel; Alice in Wonderland homeware range by Mary Gannon; Vivienne Westwood 150th anniversary edition; ‘Baby the stars shine bright’ by Kumiko Uehara, Japan courtesy of The Alice Look © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
three daughters Lorina, Edith and Alice, Carroll spent the journey telling them a story, which Alice requested he write down for her. These scribbles became the first draft, known as Alice’s Adventures Underground. The renamed Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland was published three years later with illustrations by John Tenniel, and was immediately met with huge success worldwide, with early fans including Queen Victoria and Oscar Wilde. This year marks the 150th anniversary since its first publication. To celebrate, Liberty of London has released a limited edition collection of fabrics called Pictures and Conversations inspired by the tale, and Royal Mail has created a series of stamps featuring illustrations by Grahame Baker-Smith of 10 key scenes from the story. Bespoke interior designer Mary Gannon has marked the occasion with a collection of children’s furniture and accessories adorned with illustrations by Helen Oxenbury, taken from the Walker Books’ edition, including Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee cushions. Meanwhile, the Dorchester will be holding its annual Mad Hatter’s Afternoon Tea Party for a week (starting 26 October), featuring Wonderlandthemed pastries, finger sandwiches and homemade scones, as well as the chance to win the 150th anniversary edition of
the book with a jacket designed by Vivienne Westwood. The Museum of Childhood’s The Alice Look opens on 2 May and will showcase photographs, rare editions, illustrations and outfits that have been inspired by Carroll’s character. For curator Kiera Vaclavik, Alice is an obvious trend-setter. “She offers the possibility of a female protagonist who is go-getting, who can set out intrepidly on her own adventure and triumph over adversity,” Vaclavik explains. The character has repeatedly been adapted by different cultures to make her relatable to international fans, too. “Illustrated editions often try to domesticate Alice, to make her look more recognisable to local readers,” Kiera says. “Swahili and Japanese editions show Alice not in frocks and aprons but in a kanga or kimono. Her physical features, like her hair and skin tone, are often changed for the same reasons.” The Alice Look will debut a commission by Josie Smith, pattern-cutter for Roksanda Ilincic, who has recreated Alice’s outfit using fabric printed with the original text. “I was fortunate enough to have access to the collections of some of the world’s leading Carroll specialists and collections,” says Vaclavik. “My favourite piece is a photograph of Deborah Kerr from the early 1950s, wearing a blouse with Alice text and images printed on it. It shows that stars have long been keen to associate themselves with the character.” The iconic tale and its lovable protagonist have been copied since their creation a century and a half ago, and the book is still a firm favourite among many; indeed you’ll be hard-pressed to find somebody who hasn’t heard of Lewis Carroll’s beloved tome. And if you do? Well, off with their heads! n
The Alice Look opens on 2 May at the V&A Museum of Childhood vam.ac.uk/moc
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health&fitness
health & fitness JUMPING FOR JO One of our favourite British sportswear brands to work up a sweat in, Hey Jo has launched its SS15 Rose Gold Cassini Collection, which ticks all the style boxes too. Gold zippers and toggles have been replaced by the peachy-hued metal-of-the-season – rose gold – which complements the three brand new shades of Cassini leggings: Arabica (deep brown), Yemeni (pewter grey) and Malibu (teal). With all leggings made from Italian jersey of the highest quality, we’re happy to follow in the workout footsteps of fans Sienna Miller and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.
Cassini Leggings, £145, hey-jo.co
ON THE MAP
CORE STRENGTH
Cadogan Cosmetics has introduced a brand new mole mapping service that allows moles to be screened and removed within 24 hours. For anyone with moles that have either appeared suddenly or have changed appearance after exposure to the sun, the service will help guard against malignant melanoma skin cancer by helping to diagnose potentially cancerous moles at the earliest possible stage. The 30-minute appointment uses an imaging machine to map every mole on the patient’s body to provide a ‘point-in-time’ photographic record of distribution. All body screenings are analysed by an expert dermatologist, who will then refer patients with potentially dangerous cases to an internal consultant dermatologist for treatment on the same day.
Kensington will welcome new fitness concept Core Collective to the fold this month. It’s a unique boutique destination in that it commands no signup fees, no contract and no monthly charges. The main fitness focus points Velocity (interval, functional, core stability and athletic training); Accelerate (intense endurance cycling); Resistance (suspension training); and Focus (bespoke personal training) will have you streamlined for summer in no time.
From £250, cadogancosmetics.com
Classes sold in blocks; five for £130, 10 for £240, 20 for £440 and 40 for £800 45 Phillimore Walk, W8
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out of the blues Dr Tim Lebens discusses the causes, symptoms and treatments of depression Do you ever feel overwhelmed with the daily grind? Or find yourself losing control over aspects of your life? Stress is an established feature in today’s busy lifestyle, but it can easily manifest itself as anxiety or depression. Left unrecognised, this can perpetuate negative feelings and become destructive. Before long, relationships and work can be affected by inadvertent and damaging behaviours associated with the condition. Depression is common and can occur in as many as one in four of us during our lifetime. It may be triggered by events and a susceptibility to react to the world around us, secondary to our genetic or physiological make-up. Contrary to common belief, feeling low in mood is rarely the only symptom and there are typically many physical signs of depression. Your sleeping pattern can become broken or erratic, particularly waking early in the morning and struggling to fall back to sleep. There may be a loss of appetite and subsequent weight loss, or sometimes a tendency to comfort eat.
meet the specialist
A useful self-help programme for CBT can be found on moodgym.anu.edu.au or your GP may decide to refer you to a psychotherapist.
Dr Tim Lebens BM, DFFP, MRCGP is a Private GP at The Wellington Hospital’s Platinum Medical Centre in St John’s Wood. Changes in lifestyle are crucial to improve He trained at St Mary’s Hospital in Paddington the chances of recovery and in maintaining and has also worked in Psychiatry at The Priory your mental health. The focus should be on Hospital, London. His specialist interests a healthy diet, optimising your nutritional include Men’s and Women’s Health, requirements (plenty of fruit and vegetables), regular exercise, stress management and a Psychiatry and latest advances in reduction in alcohol intake. In some people, General Medicine. recreational drug use may also be responsible for triggering depression and can often be overlooked. If any of these symptoms sound familiar and persist Another treatment currently ‘in vogue’ is mindfulness which for more than a fortnight, it would be worth talking to your can be incredibly helpful and need only take a few minutes a day. I doctor. If you would like to check if you are depressed, a useful and would recommend Headspace, which is available as a mobile app. validated questionnaire is the ‘PHQ-9’ that you can find online. Mentally, depression can make you feel low, constantly fatigued, absent minded and can cause difficulty in concentrating on some aspects of work. There is usually a loss of interest in activities you normally enjoy and you may struggle to look forward to simple pleasures. Irritability, low self-esteem and loss of libido are other common features.
Depression can run in families. However, due to the sensitive nature of the condition, we are often unaware of the diagnosis in relatives and even ourselves. Biological causes of depression tend to be less common, but it may be the result of a low blood count, nutritional deficiencies or thyroid disease. Depending on your signs and symptoms, your doctor may consider arranging some blood tests. The good news is that depression is a treatable condition. If mild to moderate, people tend to respond well to ‘talking’ therapies, which may include CBT (Cognitive Behavioural Therapy).
In moderate to severe depression, antidepressants can be helpful to get your life back on track. Antidepressants are not addictive and help to correct the chemical imbalance that may be causing your symptoms. They can take four to six weeks to work and are generally used for a minimum of six months. If you are concerned you may be living with depression, or have other concerns about your mental health, it is important to speak to your GP. They can advise you on how to manage the symptoms and may refer you on for further treatments.
For further information or if you would like to arrange an appointment at The Wellington Hospital, please contact the Enquiry Helpline on 020 7483 5000 or visit thewellingtonhospital.com
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More than just a name, Snow Lepoard vodka was created to help save this beautiful creature from extinction. 15% of profits from the brand are given directly to Snow Leopard conservation projects. Award winning Snow Leopard vodka is the first luxury vodka to be made from the Spelt grain, which provides a unique and distinct, nutty fresh taste. Available from Selfridges, Hedonism Drinks and Fortnum and Mason
www.snowleopardvodka.co.uk
food&drink
wish list social drinking There’s no other name in the gastronomic world that provokes a reaction quite like Jason Atherton. Following the roaring success of his Social empire (including Social Eating House, Pollen Street Social, City Social and Little Social), the culinary king will be tuning his hand to yet another outpost this June. Social Wine & Tapas, which is due to open on Marylebone’s James Street, will house a 70 cover bar and restaurant offering quality, rare and fine wines alongside a tapas, charcuterie, cheese and snacks menu, created by head chef Frankie Van Loo. Banquet seating in green polished leather and an original 1920s theatre chandelier will reflect the Russell Sage design aesthetic, while the in-house shop will stock glassware, Coravin wine systems and boozy accessories.
39 James Street, W1U
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Foodie favourites in the zone Admittedly, when you think of Kentish Town, ‘food destination’ isn’t always the first association you make. But two new openings are helping to change that perception. A second site for succulent fried chicken joint Joe’s Southern Kitchen & Bar features a 90-cover restaurant and an outdoor BBQ space, as well as a basement bar called Jailbird. Alongside the signature poultry, the menu will include beef short rib and Southern favourites like devilled eggs and gooey corn spoon bread. On the other side of the culinary spectrum is Patron, a new Parisian bar and bistro serving classic dishes (think steak tartare, garlic butter escargot and Camembert fondue) run by a charming local couple.
Joe’s Southern Kitchen & Bar, 300 Kentish Town Road, NW5 Patron, 26 Fortess Road, NW5
IVY LEAGUE Following a five-month closure which has seen everything but the kitchen sink (and the stained glass windows) auctioned off at Sotheby’s, The Ivy will reopen its doors on 1 June to a brand new space, courtesy of Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, and a fresher menu that comprises trademark staples alongside modern European and Asian additions. Executive chef Gary Lee remains at the helm, but will be turning his hand to create new favourites such as Togarashi popcorn shrimp with yuzu mayonnaise and seared and marinated salmon with grilled asparagus and shaved minted cucumber. On the other side of town, The Ivy Chelsea Garden has opened on the King’s Road in the spot of the old Six Bells. Unlike the mothership, there’s easy access all day long with over half the tables available for walk-ins, as well as an orangery, terrace and garden ideal for whiling away sunny summer afternoons.
The Ivy, 9 West Street, WC2H The Ivy Chelsea Garden, 197 King’s Road, SW3
SKEWERED VISION Frequenters of Hampstead’s Jin Kichi and Sticks ‘n’ Sushi will be familiar with the Japanese penchant for all things served on skewers, from quails eggs to pork belly. Bringing another Izakaya bar to the capital, based on the pubs and bars found in Japan, the Woodstock is serving an extensive list of local brews, paired with a variety of 20 stick-based snacks. Choose between kushiyaki – grilled and served with salt or teriyaki sauce – and kushiyage – fried and devoured with miso and dashi – accompanied by a variety of speciality sakes, shochu and native whiskys.
11 Woodstock Street, W1C
food&drink
Restaurant Review
On Tapas
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Kari Colmans believes that the best things really do come in small packages at new Spanish outpost Morada Brindisa Asador
’ve never been to any of the Brindisa group’s restaurants before. They have outposts (not chains) sprinkled all over the capital, each of which specialises in different dishes, offering a varying experience from the last, but with a unifying emphasis on freshly prepared tapas, cured meat, cheese and fish from Spain’s best producers. The first, and most famous, Brindisa landed in Borough Market in 2004 after the company had worked in wholesale for 16 years, and was followed in quick succession by Casa Brindisa in South Kensington, Tapas Brindisa in Soho and Tramontana Brindisa in Shoreditch. The latest opening, Morada Brindisa Asador on Rupert Street, brings the Iberian tradition of roasting meats in an ‘asador’ to the table, and it only takes a glance online at the milk-fed lamb in varying states of consumption to have you longing for a summer sojourn to the Balearics. Morada Brindisa Asador’s décor is cool and modern; unfussy yet sleek, casual and inviting, with the options of sitting at the bar amid the glistening ham legs, or at a lower wooden table for a more intimate experience. It’s not as busy as you’d expect for a sunny Tuesday evening, but when we visit, it’s been open less than a week, and most people are probably recovering from the bank holiday weekend, and all the milk buttons that came with it. Apart from wanting everything on the menu, I am particularly impressed by our waiter Dorian (which, incidentally, is just his Brindisa name, because nobody can pronounce his native Greek moniker), who knows, off the top of his head, every mollusc that makes up every stock; the cooking temperature of every meat; and the individual components of every dressing and garnish, and is extraordinarily accommodating and attentive to our dietary whims. It sounds simple, but it isn’t often that you find a waiter with such an intimate depth of knowledge about the food he is serving, with the charisma to go with it. We are brought some nibbles to keep us going while we peruse the menu: a tangy slice of chorizo; a deep fried sliver of black
“The star of the show is the secreto Iberico, the Wagyu of the porcine world” pudding; and a bowl of bulging green olives, stuffed, unusually, with orange segments, which I love but my husband can’t get his head around. We start with some crispy fried fish; anchovies, sole, squid and fully armoured prawns, which are sweet and glistening from the fryer, but could do with an accompanying aioli; and a type of mashed potato topped with pork lardons, which divides our two-man crowd the other way. Then come some chargrilled chicken skewers from the grill; tasty, highly seasoned morsels.
But the star of the show is the secreto Iberico, the Wagyu of the porcine world – a slab of richly flavoured, sweet and tender pork, cooked in the charcoal oven and cut into slices. We have half of it prepared mediumrare, as suggested, and the other well-done, and actually prefer the latter (despite both always ordering our red meat blue) as it allowed the fat to render and catch, adding a crispy, browned and even saltier coating to the meat. This is accompanied by seasonal roast and grilled vegetables. Should I to go again (which indeed, I intend to) I would certainly stretch my stomach to order a stew, or kaldereta, as I’ve come to know them (and devour them) on summer holidays in Mallorca. But I would be hard-pressed to choose between the mixed fish with almond picada and the chicken and rabbit hotpot with wild mushrooms and flat bread, and would probably order both. To finish off, we shun a tempting tart for a selection of Morada cheeses, served with Galician biscuits and some tangy, fruity jelly. As well as the food, the wine, cava and sherry list is also impressive. The name of the group comes from the Spanish word ‘Brindis’, meaning ‘to toast’; and after a meal here, you’ll be doing just that. n
18-20 Rupert Street, W1D
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THE BIG CHEESE The much-lauded Le Chabanais opens its doors on Mount Street this month. Zoe Strimpel meets its outspoken designer, Clément Blanchet
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he architect behind London’s hottest new opening, Le Chabanais, has the complexion of a Bourbon prince: rosy, soft and fresh. And from the the moment he steps out of a black cab in front of the Le Chabanais’ Mount Street site, it’s clear I’m in the presence of a true créateur. After all, he is one of the few men I have ever seen who can sport bright blue trousers and look not only completely relaxed, but extremely elegant. After a tour around the premises, we head to The Connaught next door to converse over a glass or two of wine. To anyone who has been, we’re sure you’ll agree that the Connaught Bar is tasty decadence itself: Weimar Berlin meets Edwardian extravagance in dollops of marble, copper, leather and geometric colour. Conceived by restaurant design darling David Collins in 2008 (Collins also designed the Wolesley and the Blue Bar at the Berkeley), its look became emblematic of London’s subsequent restaurant boom. But it also serves as a reminder that Collins’s style has become diluted in the intervening years as ever-more restaurants try to emulate it. I can’t be the first person to have tired of yet another London bar/ restaurant with over-stuffed leather banquettes, dark green bar stools and chunky lamps emitting light so weak you can barely see, but lacking the beautiful marble and colour of Collins’s spaces. So at the risk of our great capital’s restaurant design turning stale, Blanchet is here to shake things up, Paris style. He’s young, but he’s earned his laurels: in 2006 at the remarkably tender age of 24 he helped build the Serpentine Pavilion with Rem Koolhaas (with whom he worked until 2014). Following his audacious, allwhite marble Le Dauphin in Paris, Le Chabanais is a prestigious gig for Blanchet, and a chance to set a new trend. Coming from the people behind Paris’s iconic Le Chateaubriand bistro – currently at No 27 in the
interiors
Below: Le Dauphin à Paris All photography by Philippe Ruault
World's 50 Best Restaurants list – its presence is set to be another celebrated feather in London’s culinary cap. The development has been spearheaded by film producer Varun Talreja who has joined forces with Chateaubriand’s Basque chef and owner Inaki Aizpitarte and his partners Franck Audoux and Laurent Cabut. Head chef Paul Boudier will head up the kitchen while Kevin Lansdown, former general manager of Scott's, has shimmied down the road to run front of house. In other words, people will be paying attention, and Blanchet is not missing the chance to make them sit up. In fact, as our meeting progresses, it becomes increasingly obvious that he’s here to do something consciously against the grain of London’s favourite eateries, going so far as to proclaim: “I hate to be up to date, I hate to look at magazines, I hate to see other restaurants!” Why? “I get lost in other people’s ideas.” Blanchet’s fearless commitment to originality made him the obvious choice for Aizpitarte. In response to the chef’s question of what he would do with the restaurant space after he’d seen it for the first time, Blanchet merely said: “I don’t know.” He said the dining room – whose cornice work and lovely high ceilings speak of its heritage status – was “very small and very English”. But Blanchet wouldn’t be rushed into a plan. “I wanted to follow my understanding of the site and the situation.” So the team spent a merry time dining in all of London’s top restaurants, which led Blanchet to conclude that “London is very cosmopolitan, very anchored in tradition but at the same time, has a reputation for innovation.” He then took this and used it in his work: “I wanted to reflect that in the use of brass – it’s looking very old and luxurious and cosy – but I took a product that looked like the past and translated it to the future,” he says. “I wanted to treat the past, the present and the future as equal. I wanted to be free. It’s good to be nostalgic, but it has to be positive.” Le Chabanais certainly evokes a sense of the past alongside a kind of sexed-up urban future where simplicity and hard-nosed luxury reign. When I visited the restaurant with Blanchet it was still a building site, but its signature gleaming copper squares were already affixed to the wall. A special non-slippery version was patented for use on the floor, too: one of Blanchet’s USPs is the use of a single continuous material across different segments of space. And as we trod over wires and wood planks, he told me of blocks and columns of colour: green, red and blue in the dining room, with bathrooms in screaming red resin, and a great marble staircase connecting upstairs with the bar downstairs. No fussy banquettes and olde-worlde intricacies in sight. The near-obsessive use of a single or a couple of materials is integral to Blanchet’s notion of luxury, which is about timelessness and originality at the same time. “I want to be exclusive to the client and to the place, and I have a certain understanding of exclusivity. Exclusivity today is not only to be different; to be fancy and colourful, but
to be timeless, which is why I want to use things that are timeless – brass, wood, marble.” It also means top-ofthe-line furniture: the restaurant’s brass-legged chairs are made by New England studio BassamFellows, while Paris lumination queen Odile Soudant designed the lighting. Despite his suspicion of current London restaurant designs, Blanchet is in tune with one apparent theme among the capital’s best places: synergy between room and food. Local restaurant du jour Portland, for instance, is light and minimal, all quality and no fuss, while the food revolves around ingenious treatments of vegetables. Kitty Fisher’s is a luxuriant, sexy little den; an intuitive fit with its dusky wood-grilled fare. Blanchet goes further, though, theorising the relationship between design and food in a way that only a Frenchman could. “I want to have a relationship with the materiality that translates into food. At Le Dauphin I wanted to have the architecture being erased, to disappear – I wanted people to focus and celebrate the food, so I chose the white insipid background. It was about the power of being in a room where everything is white.” A similar ethos applies here: “The food of Inaki is not sophisticated – so I had to be brutal. It’s all about fresh products. Nothing is too complicated.” Inaki’s approach has been described as “cuisine de vagabond” linked to the city’s bistronomy movement, which saw a number of chefs cut the prices and airs and graces of top-tier Michelin eateries in favour of a more pared-back experience. Hence the swathes of intense material and the swipes of tripartite in the dining room: the perfect environment for glistening forkfuls of meat, fresh fish and great wedges of cheese. While at Le Chateaubriand the standout dish is a squid salad with sea asparagus, onions, redcurrants and wakame powder (chosen as such by ‘50 Best’), at Le Chabanais, Paul and his team will offer a regularly changing menu inspired by the food served at the mothership, centered around fresh European ingredients. Meanwhile, the black and red of the downstairs bar is intended as a “sexy” space – Le Chabanais is, after all, named after one of the most famous Belle Époque brothels in Paris – serving a short menu of French-inspired classic cocktails. While fine French dining is hardly a new trend-setting phenomenon, foodies are still getting excited by the big-name Parisian exports, including the arrival of Les 110 de Taillevent, courtesy of the legendary Taillevent restaurant in Paris, which will open on Cavendish Square later this year. The fashion forecasters and bloggers may be getting their knickers in a twist over the most authentic bibimbaps, exposed brick walls included, but when it comes to the upper echelons of culinary taste, French cooking and design will always have that added je ne sais quoi. n
The near-obsessive use of a single material is integral to Blanchet’s notion of luxury
8 Mount Street, W1K lechabanaislondon.com
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Room with a view The Marylebone Hotel has had a lick of paint and then some. Opening this month, three new signature suites are the toast of the renovation. With sweeping views of the local skyline on offer, guests can pinpoint landmarks such as the Shard amid the chimney pots. For the best room in the house book The Marylebone Suite: the capacious 860 sq ft space is decked out in limed American oak and sumptuous soft furnishings and comes with a curated book collection, a dual aspect lounge and a concealed 60-inch mirrored TV. Not that the box will get much air time – the jawdropping terrace boasts its own TV set outdoors, along with a fireplace and the ultimate gadget – a retractable roof. Make sure you tune in for the weather report.
The Marylebone Suite £1,500 per night including breakfast; The Marylebone Hotel, 47 Welbeck Street, W1G, doylecollection.com
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TRAVEL in style HOT SPOT in May
Florence, Italy Feast your ears on world-class classical music set in a stunning Renaissance backdrop Florence’s Maggio Musicale – or the May Music Festival – offers a soundtrack fit for exploring the historic riverside city. During this month, a series of internationally acclaimed classical music recitals, opera and ballet performances are staged at venues around town. Away from the concert halls, marvel at the exquisite jewellery collections filling the window fronts on the Ponte Vecchio, stroll alongside the romantic river Arno or bask in the spring sunshine with a coffee before joining the throngs queuing for the Uffizi or the intricately adorned Duomo. For a taste of Florentine finesse, check into the Hotel Savoy, the imposing building found in the Piazza della Repubblica. Set against a stylish backdrop, guests are within walking distance of the Boboli Gardens, the Pitti Palace and the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, which celebrates the legendary local shoe designer. Inside the hotel, contemporary meets traditional, with opulent design touches in marble and mosaic across the hotel’s 88 rooms and 14 luxurious suites, two of which come with their own private steam rooms – so you can unwind before enjoying Tuscan cuisine al fresco on the restaurant piazza.
From £235 a night, excluding breakfast and taxes, roccofortehotels.com
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Cotton on A decadent blast from the Catalonian past comes courtesy of Barcelona’s latest opening, Cotton House. Part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, the boutique hotel is housed in a grand 19th century building that was once the headquarters of the Association of Cotton Manufacturers. The site has come a long way since its textile days, but a sense of heritage still lingers in the striking period details. The ornate carved ceilings, beautiful tiled floors, sweeping marble staircase and a gleaming hall of mirrors means there is plenty to marvel at – not least the rooftop terrace and pool with its panoramic city views.
From £145 a night, marriot.co.uk
TRAVEL LIGHT To celebrate its 40th birthday, luxury leather goods brand TUMI has unveiled a commemorative collection, aptly named 1975. Crafted from full grain and cowhide leather, travel essentials come in the form of a carry-on, duffel bag, travel kit and cross-body and rucksack, which all take nostalgic cues from the year when the brand first began. Choose a carry-on bearing a unique embossed number, an investment piece for any discerning jetsetter, which could come in handy for anyone planning to spend the summer zipping from Mykonos to Mallorca.
From £95 211-213 Regent Street, W1B
Reserves of style As views go, the panorama of cobalt blue ripples stretching for as far as the eye can see at La Réserve Ramatuelle – a pebble’s throw from Saint-Tropez – is hard to beat. Set in a hilltop village amid gnarled olive trees and fragrant orange groves, the hotel commands a choice spot on the shoreline. Its suites and villas boast a blend of clean lines in Provençal style, housing a sun-trap terrace or garden. La Réserve’s attention to detail was applauded last month at La Voile restaurant, which has just been awarded its first Michelin star. We recommend tucking into the catch of the day on its shaded terrace before collapsing on a cloud-like spa bed for a Crème de la Mer treatment.
winter Life’s a winners beach
SHORT HAUL
Turkish delight Whether your idea of a holiday involves voraciously racing through a pile of paperbacks by the pool, or dancing the night away to a live DJ set – the Swissôtel Resort Bodrum Beach ticks all the boxes. The hotel and collection of serviced residences – together with a Pürovel Spa and a stretch of private sands – is now excepting bookings ahead of its launch at Turgutreis, a short drive from central Bodrum, next month. Word on the grapevine is that the windsurfing and diving conditions are some of the best in this part of the Aegean.
From £110 a night, swissotel.com/bodrum
LONG HAUL
Island idyll The Vamizi Private Villa Collection, Mozambique has opened a new castaway retreat. Named after a species of native butterfly, the Papilio villa is available from this month. Set in a remote plot with access to 100 metres of private beach, the abode comes with a private chef, butler and driver. Guests can go whale watching, take a guided nature walk or enjoy a sunset picnic on their own roof tower – complete with that villa essential: a stargazing deck.
Seven night stay for 12 people from £25,400; vamizi.com
From £570 a night for a deluxe room, lareserve-ramatuelle.com
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Four Seasons Bora Bora
blue crush Karen Bowerman sails between the crystal-clear waters of French Polynesia’s heavenly isles – Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora
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round four million years ago, underwater volcanoes punched through the cobalt blue sea of the South Pacific to create a series of islands that have since become known as paradise on earth. Today, their craters have been softened by the wind, and their folds and fissures draped in coconut palms, ferns and red ginger flowers. But their peaks still seem to soar straight out of the sea, to sit in shimmering, turquoise lagoons, cradled by islets of powder-white sand, and ringed by giant reefs – the coral garlands, locals say, that such a special place deserves. This is French Polynesia, better known as Tahiti and Her Islands. It’s made up of 118 isles, divided into five archipelagos, scattered over a swathe of ocean roughly the size of Europe. I’m visiting three islands in the Society Archipelago: Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora. Tahiti, home to the capital Papeete is about 4,000 miles southwest of Los Angeles. I land in Papeete at 5am. It’s already 26 degrees. I tumble off the plane after 20 hours of flying, to the gentlest, warmest of welcomes: traditional guitar music, a woman performing a graceful aparima – a dance with soft, elaborate hand gestures – and I’m presented with a garland of native tiare flowers; tiny, white gardenias. “Flowers are our jewels,” my guide says, as I breathe in the heady scent. “It’s our way of telling you how happy we are that you’re here.” I spend my first day at Le Méridien, on Tahiti’s west coast. I arrive to the sound of birds chirruping in the hotel’s lush, beachside garden. Golden koi carp sashay among purple lilies in a pool beneath my balcony. Out at sea, surf rolls over the reef, like an
Four Seasons Bora Bora
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Le Meridien Tahiti
endless Mexican wave. In the afternoon, I have the pleasure of heading to the spa to meet Mariam, who wears a flower in her hair. She works her hands over my back and shoulders in a traditional Polynesian massage, using sweet monoi oil made from soaking petals of the tiare flower in coconut. The fragrance lingers on my skin for hours. Dinner is served on the deck of the hotel’s Le Carré restaurant where tables overlook the sea. Benjamin Maury, the friendly maitre d’, suggests I try a local prawn tartare, which has a devilish bite of ginger, and poached mahi mahi, a prized game fish. “And then,” he says, “it has to be boule de neige” (snowball). It’s a sphere of meringue, sweet and crumbly, filled with Malibu sorbet.
“ I watch Tahiti slip into the shadows as her mountainous neighbour claims the sun. Moorea’s shore is cluttered with palms” The next morning, I catch a ferry from Papeete to Moorea. The journey takes about 45 minutes. I watch Tahiti slip into the shadows as her mountainous neighbour claims the sun. Moorea’s shore is cluttered with palms. Tom Stewart, who’s half-Tahitian, halfScottish, appears among them. He takes me on an island jeep tour. We stop at a pineapple plantation, admire the clear blue waters of Cooks Bay and visit Opunohu Agricultural School, where the students grow breadfruit, mango, lychees and vanilla. And then a few hours later, I check into the Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa. It has sleepy white sand and palms strung with hammocks and thatched bungalows, built on stilts over the water. Mine is perfectly positioned for sunset; I dangle my feet over the decking and take in the tangerine sky. I soon realise I’m in a ridiculously romantic resort; almost everyone is on honeymoon. I wonder if this means the hotel has to deal with unrealistic requests. “No, not at all!” Sonia, one of the waitresses replies. “Of course, there are always guests who expect the earth. But when they demand paradise, we can say, yes, we have it here!” That evening, no one seems disappointed, even when there’s the threat of rain. Guests gather on the beach for traditional dancing and a fire-eating display. Men with tattoos
Le Meridien Tahiti
Four Seasons Bora Bora
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and muscular torsos toss burning torches into the sky. Women wearing coconut shells gyrate to a frenetic drum beat. I feel exhausted just watching them. From Moorea, I fly to Bora Bora, which sits in a pearlescent lagoon. The water’s such an intense aquamarine that from the sky I almost mistake it for a swimming pool. I’m still marvelling at its colours on the day I have to leave. My single prop lands on Motu Mute, an islet to the north of the main island. The glass-fronted arrivals hall (a small room) opens onto the lagoon. Ocean cruisers and giant catamarans jostle for recognition outside. But my eyes are drawn to a jaunty, 1920s-style cruiser, with highly-polished wood and an interior of soft cream. She happens to be my transfer to the Four Seasons. The exclusive resort is on Tehotu, an islet overlooking the main island. Jennifer Aniston and Justin Theroux reportedly stayed here last year, although the hotel is far too discreet to comment. There are over-water suites, all large and luxurious, a spa in a plantation of pandanus trees and a signature restaurant serving specialities such as Moorea shrimp tempura, and foie gras with truffle and coconut cream. Fancy a Louis XIII to round off dinner? A glass will cost you £400. But the resort’s natural wonders are free: dense, tropical gardens; secluded, fine sand beaches; and Moorea Hilton
private lagoons with water so clear you can spot fish from the shore. I snorkel among nonchalant black sturgeon, translucent spade fish and frenzied Picasso trigger fish with stripes round their eyes and painted yellow smiles. Later, I find myself attempting the tree pose, on a rocking paddle board, in a shower of rain. “It’s Bora Bora’s blessing!” Sara Garcia, my paddleboard yoga instructor cries, as guests scuttle past with umbrellas. Moments later, when the sun comes out and we’re relaxing on our backs, trailing our fingers in the lagoon’s warm saltiness, I have to agree; it does feel special. The next day, I head off for a tour with Steve, a vivacious, ukulele-playing local who takes small groups on lagoon tours. We swim with (harmless) black-tipped reef sharks, enjoy an encounter with slippery manta rays and eat barbecued fish out of braided palm leaves. On my last morning at the Four Seasons, I go for an early stroll. I meet Mautui who’s sweeping the sand with quiet dedication. I ask how often he does it. “I rake Monday to Sunday, 5am to noon,” he says. I must have looked shocked as he reassures me he finds it “relaxing work”. After breakfast, I follow his tiny grooves round the resort. There’s not a slip of seaweed or an errant leaf anywhere. The sand is soft and perfect: the finishing touch to paradise. n
NEED TO KNOW Rooms at Le Méridien Tahiti start at £150 per room, exclusive of taxes, based on two sharing a room, and dependent on season and availability. To book call +689 40 47 07 29 or email rez@lemeridien-tahiti.pf. For further information visit lemeridientahiti.com Rooms at Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora start at £611 per room, exclusive of taxes, based on two sharing a room and dependent on season and availability. To book call +689 40 60 31 30 or email reservations. borabora@fourseasons.com. For further information visitfourseasons.com/borabora Rooms at Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa start at £215 per room, exclusive of taxes, based on two sharing a room and dependent on season and availability. To book call +689 40 86 49 00 or email reservations@ hilton.pf. For further information visit hilton.com/resorts
Moorea Hilton
Air Tahiti Nui is the national carrier to French Polynesia with departures from Paris, Los Angeles, Tokyo and Auckland to Tahiti with connecting flights available from London with Virgin Atlantic, airtahitinui.co.uk The Polynesian domestic airline, Air Tahiti services The Islands of Tahiti. There are several flights a day and weekly between the main islands of the five archipelagos: Society, Tuamotu, Gambier, Marquesas and Austral, airtahiti.aero For more information on the Islands of Tahiti, tour operator package deals and special offers visit tahiti-tourisme.co.uk
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Property Listings See below for estate agents in your area
Arlington Residential 8 Wellington Road NW8 9SP 020 7722 3322 arlingtonresidential.co.uk
Hanover Residential 102 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7722 2223
Laurence Leigh 60 Queens Grove NW8 6ER 020 7483 0101 laurenceleigh.com
49 Welbeck Street W1G 9XN 020 8128 0675 hanover-residential.com
Aston Chase 69 / 71 Park Road NW1 6XU 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com
ian green residential 28 De Walden House Allitsen Road, NW8 020 7586 1000 iangreenresidential.com
Parkheath 208 Haverstock Hill NW3 2AG 020 7431 1234
Globe Apartments 45 Chiltern Street London W1U 6LU 020 7034 3430 globeapt.com
Hamptons International 99 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7717 5319 21 Heath Street NW3 6TR 020 7717 5301 hamptons.co.uk
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Marsh & Parsons 35 Maida Vale W9 1TP 020 7368 4458 marshandparsons.co.uk
Knight Frank 5-7 Wellington Place NW8 7PB 020 7586 2777
8a Canfield Gardens NW6 3BS 020 7625 4567
79-81 Heath Street NW3 6UG 020 7431 8686
192 West End Lane NW6 1SG 020 7794 7111
55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440
148 Kentish Town Road NW1 9QB 020 7485 0400 parkheath.com
PHILLIPS HARROD 85-87 Bayham Street NW1 OAG 020 71234 152 info@phillipsharrod.com
Savills 7 Perrin’s Court NW3 1QS 020 7472 5000 15 St John’s Wood High Street NW8 7NG 020 3043 3600 savills.co.uk
savills.co.uk
TK International 16-20 Heath Street NW3 6TE 020 7794 8700 t-k.co.uk
60 Salusbury Road NW6 6NP 020 3815 3020 Unit 49 55 Baker Street London W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 knightfrank.co.uk
If you would like to appear within the property pages of VANTAGE, contact Friday Dalrymple, property manager, on 020 7987 4320 or f.dalrymple@runwildgroup.co.uk
Vantage P R O P E RT Y
showcasing the
finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents
Elegant & exclusive The latest prime properties
Image courtesy of Hamptons International
Photography Š Sarel Jansen
property
park life As Knight Frank prepares to welcome its latest branch to Queen’s Park, office head Laura Dam Villena explains why the time was right to move into the area
W
hen the new Queen’s Park office opens this month it will be Knight Frank’s 25th London branch, but heading it up will be a first for Laura Dam Villena. After relocating to the area herself, Laura realised how much the locale was overshadowed in the postcode lottery by its more well-to-do neighbours in West Hampstead and Maida Vale. With an established Knight Frank track record under her belt, she pitched the idea for an opening in the area a couple of years ago, and, after many months of hard work, the new office will open for business on Salusbury Road in a matter of weeks. “My husband grew up in Queen’s Park so his family has strong roots here,” she explains. “When I first moved here I couldn’t help but be charmed by the village feel and laid-back café culture. The number of independent shops popping up on Salusbury Road and Chamberlayne Road in particular gives the area a brilliant sense of community and an independent ethos, while the beautiful avenues converging on Queen’s Park itself are lined with enviable family homes,” she enthuses. With the countdown to the imminent ribbon cutting well underway, Laura and her colleagues have been quick off the mark and currently already manage a strong portfolio of local properties, from twobedroom apartments to palatial period residences. The team is excelling in off market sales too, with a number of under-the-radar gems on the books – including a beautiful home on Kingswood Avenue that boasts magnificent views over the park. Laura admits that she didn’t exactly take the conventional route into estate agency. A French degree from Exeter University and a Masters in International Real Estate from Oxford Brookes lead to a job on the Knight Frank European valuation team and saw Laura jetting off to Monaco, the Côte d’Azur and Italy to size up the housing stock there. She also qualified as a chartered surveyor through the Knight Frank Graduate Scheme. But it was her time working at the Riverside sales team that introduced her to the buzz of the London market. She spent the next five years helping to establish the successful Hyde Park office and after assisting the branch to build up a strong reputation, she realised that that was where her passion lay. Heading up the Queen’s Park team will be an opportunity to spread her wings. “Two members of my
team are moving to the area because they have been so drawn to the patch – so we now all live locally,” she says, adding that it’s a real “locals’ place”. In fact, if anyone needs any suggestions on where to go for a delicious lunch or a night out, Laura’s your girl: “I love the old Mews area on Lonsdale Road,” she says. “There’s a very creative vibe going on. Sitting outside Ostuni or Hugo’s in the summer with a drink feels like aperitivo hour on holiday.”
“Queen’s Park has long been overlooked, but with its fantastic amenities, transport links and family-friendly atmosphere that is all changing” Thoughts of an actual holiday won’t be on the cards for a while – “it’s been a busy few months”, she admits. And with good reason: the market in Queen’s Park is strong and Laura predicts that things can only get better. “Ten years ago you could buy somewhere for £500,000, now, for a property on one of the prestigious avenues, you’re looking at nearer the £1.7 to £2 million mark,” she explains. While she agrees that some buyers and vendors are undoubtedly sitting on the fence in the run-up to the election, she stresses that things are still moving as the market in the Queen’s Park area isn’t dominated or driven by property investors, rather it is more of a family sphere where people are always looking to move from A to B. “I expect to see a lot more activity in the summer,” she predicts. She points to the fact that even some of the most sought-after properties still offer good value for money, alluding to a home on Brondesbury Park, which is on the market for £3.5 million – which works out at £736 per sq ft. “Queen’s Park has long been overlooked, but with its fantastic amenities, transport links and familyfriendly atmosphere that is all changing – and at long last too,” she laughs. “It’s time for the area to step out of the shadows.” n
60 Salusbury Road, NW6, 020 3815 3020, knightfrank.co.uk
103
Wrentham Avenue, Queen's Park NW10 Five bedroom house for sale
KnightFrank.co.uk/queenspark queenspark@knightfrank.com 020 3815 3020
An opportunity to acquire a beautifully refurbished five bedroom, three bathroom Edwardian house with a 108 ft landscaped garden, on this pretty tree lined street in Queen's Park. The house benefits from off street parking for 2 cars, impressive light filled rooms and a is a perfect fmaily home. EPC: D. Approximately 246 sq m (2,644 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £2,350,000
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/NGH140210
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Brondesbury Park, Queen's Park NW6 Six bedroom house for sale A characterful house in Brondesbury Park. 6 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, reception room, cinema room fully fitted with surround sound, study, guest suite or additional office space, gated off street parking, garage and large garden at the rear with additional studio. The property is well situated for the transport links of Brondesbury Park, Willesden Green and Queen's Park stations. EPC: D. Approximately 441 sq m (4,752 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £3,500,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/queenspark queenspark@knightfrank.com 020 3815 3020
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/QPK150010
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Hamilton Terrace, St John's Wood NW8 Beautiful family home with an extensive garden
KnightFrank.co.uk/st-johns-wood stjohnswood@knightfrank.com 020 7586 2777
The house is situated on one of the most sought after roads in St John's Wood. 4 bedrooms, 3 bathroms, draeing room, double reception room, dining room, kitchen, family room, music room, balcony, courtyard, summer house. EPC: D. Approximately 253 sq m (2,723 sq ft). Freehold
Guide price: £4,995,000
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/SJW140276
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3B
39
Brunswick Place, Regent's Park NW1 Six bedroom stucco fronted house Located on the South Side of Regent's Park moments from Marylebone High Street, this imposing Nash residence has been painstakingly refurbished and extends to 5,340 sq ft. This classic Grade II listed property dates back to 1824 and incorporates 6 bedrooms, 5 luxury bathrooms (3 en suite), kitchen/breakfast room, 4 reception rooms, study, gym, sauna, steam room, wine cellar and double garage. EPC: E. Approximately 496 sq m (5,340 sq ft). Leasehold: approximately 143 years and 9 months remaining
Guide price: £10,500,000
KnightFrank.co.uk/st-johns-wood stjohnswood@knightfrank.com 020 7586 2777
@KnightFrank KnightFrank.co.uk
KnightFrank.co.uk/SJW140074
3 Brunswick Place, Vantage May 2015 -v3
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SOLD: mansion house Guide price: £30,000,000
SOLD: Lateral apartment Guide price: £10,950,000
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NO.1 For highest prices achieved in
MARYLEBONE When making the decision to sell one of your most valuable assets you naturally want first class advice with exceptional results. With over 100 years of local knowledge and a global network of 370 offices across 55 countries we will find the right buyer for your home and get you the results you expect.
For a free market appraisal of your property call us today on 020 3435 6440 55 Baker Street, London W1U 8EW | KnightFrank.co.uk/marylebone
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ELEGANT, GRACEFUL, IMPRESSIVELY POWERFUL
Throughout the ages, the noble swan has been much admired for its serenity and grace, while just below the surface it powerfully propels itself forward with sheer grit and determination. Just like the swan, Aston Chase’s sales team appears calm and composed, but don’t let that fool you. Underneath, our work ethic and attention to detail are unsurpassed and help explain why we’ve been one of Central and North West London’s leading independent estate agents for the last 30 years. If you’re looking to buy, sell or let a property in these uncertain times, Aston Chase can steer you in the right direction.
SALES | LETTINGS | NEW HOMES
6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D | L O N D O N | N W 1 6 X U | T + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 7 2 4 4 724 | A S T O N C H A S E.C OM
THE LANE ST JOHN’S WOOD NW8
A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO PURCHASE A LOW BUILT DETACHED HOUSE PRESENTLY COMPRISING
270 SQ M/2,903 SQ FT WITH DETAILED PLANNING CONSENT FOR A NEW BUILD FAMILY RESIDENCE PROVIDING IN EXCESS OF 6,500 SQ FT.
GUIDE PRICE £6,750,000 FREEHOLD JOINT SOLE AGENTS
Requiring modernisation yet offering enormous potential to significantly enhance the value by either adding a second floor or demolishing the existing property and implementing the planning consent. The Lane is conveniently located for the amenities of St John’s Wood High Street and Maida Vale including St John’s Wood Underground Station (Jubilee Line) and Maida Vale Underground Station (Bakerloo Line). Furthermore, The American School in London and the extensive sporting facilities of Paddington Recreation Ground (2.7 acres) are both within easy access.
Principal Bedroom with Dressing Room and En-Suite Bathroom, Second Bedroom with En-Suite Shower Room, Two Further Bedrooms, Staff Bedroom/Bedroom Five with En-Suite Shower Room & Kitchenette, Family Bathroom, Kitchen/Breakfast Room, Dining Room, Reception Room, Conservatory, Utility Room, Guest Cloakroom, Front & Rear Gardens, Garage, Further Private Off Street Parking on the Driveway and within The Lane. EPC/F.
Elsworthy Road P R I M R O S E H I L L N W 3 A rare opportunity to acquire a superb raised ground floor and garden level five bedroom maisonette (284 sq m/3,062 sq ft), situated moments from the entrance to Primrose Hill. GUIDE PRICE ÂŁ5,750,000 SHARE OF FREEHOLD JOINT SOLE AGENTS
Featuring a beautifully presented rear garden and its own private entrance, the apartment is presented in good decorative order throughout and benefits from spacious and bright accommodation. Situated on Elsworthy Road, the apartment is ideally located for all the amenities of picturesque Primrose Hill village, famed for its iconic park which is only 100 metres away. Both Swiss Cottage and Chalk Farm Underground Stations (Jubilee & Northern Line) are within close proximity.
Principal Bedroom with En-Suite Shower Room, Two Further Bedrooms with En-Suite Bathrooms, Two Further Bedrooms, Family Bathroom, Kitchen/Breakfast Room, Reception Room, Drawing Room, Study, Utility Room, Guest Cloakroom, Underfloor Heating, Wine Cellar, Terrace, Store Room, Residents Permit Parking, Private Entrance, Front Garden, 135 ft Rear Garden. EPC/D.
Howitt Road NW3 £2,995,000
A handsome three storey family house in the heart of Belsize Park, with period features throughout.
2741 sq ft/230 sq m 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms 18’9 reception, 2nd reception 25’ kitchen/dining room Terrace and garden Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234
South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com
Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com
West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com
Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com
Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com
Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com
www.parkheath.com
Haverstock Hill NW3 £1,650,000
A stylish and beautifully designed maisonette occupying the top floors of a period house in Belsize Park.
1803 sq ft/167 sq m 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms 18’6 reception 18’6 kitchen, separate utility room Close proximity to local amenities Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234
South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com
Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com
West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com
Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com
Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com
Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com
www.parkheath.com
hot property
head for the hill
Presenting a very rare and exciting opportunity to invest in the leafy, almost film-set like north-west London village of Primrose Hill, this immaculately presented and spacious modern town house is located directly opposite the open spaces for which the area is renowned and boasting all the views that come with it. Arranged over approximately 2,750 sq ft, it comprises a large double reception room, as well as a kitchen/breakfast room with separate dining room opening onto a terrace, which is ideal for
entertaining friends and family. What’s more, the master bedroom with en suite bathroom leads onto another private roof terrace, while three further bedrooms each benefit from en suite facilities. Additional advantages also include a guest cloakroom and a separate utility room, as well as a Sonos music system, partial air conditioning, an integral garage and off street parking for two cars. Of particular interest, the house is being sold with the benefit of planning permission to extend the accommodation on the top floor.
property
primrose hill, NW3 ÂŁ3,495,000 Freehold Arlington Residential arlingtonresidential.com
020 7722 3322 117
PORTLAND PLACE LONDON W1
A rarely available, Grade II* listed virtual freehold building of circa 10,000 sq ft / 937 sq m on one of London’s most prestigious streets Currently with commercial use, the property has planning consent, granted January 2014, to be converted back into a magnificent single family house. Features of the building include two impressive first floor drawing rooms with nearly 15ft/4.5m high ceilings with ornate cornicing and plasterwork, a four person passenger lift, rear patio and an impressive stone staircase.
joint sole agents
Marylebone
020 3435 6440
999 year lease from 1954 price on application
UK REAL ESTATE LTD
KnightFrank.co.uk
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Arlin
HAMILTON TERRACE ST JOHN’S WOOD, NW8
A RECENTLY REFURBISHED MAISONETTE PROVIDING 151 SQ M / 1,680 SQ FT OF ACCOMMODATION OVER THE TOP TWO FLOORS OF AN IMPRESSIVE DETACHED BUILDING. THE FLAT, WHICH FEATURES A STRIKING VAULTED RECEPTION ROOM AND A LARGE KITCHEN/BREAKFAST ROOM WITH DOORS ONTO A SMALL TERRACE, IS LOCATED IN HAMILTON TERRACE — A WIDE, TREE LINED ROAD, REGARDED AS ONE OF ST JOHN’S WOOD’S MOST SOUGHT AFTER STREETS. THERE IS PLANNING CONSENT TO CREATE A ROOF TERRACE — DRAWINGS AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST.
3 BEDROOMS, 1 BATHROOM, 2 SHOWER ROOMS, STUDY/BEDROOM 4, DOUBLE RECEPTION ROOM, KITCHEN/BREAKFAST ROOM, SMALL TERRACE.
SHARE OF FREEHOLD
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JOINT AGENTS BEHR & BUTCHOFF
ASKING PRICE £2,395,000
13/04/2015 17:02
Lymington Road West Hampstead, NW6 A modern two storey, five bedroom detached house offered with ample off-street parking and rear garden. The house also benefits from a garage and is within close proximity to the shops, restaurants and transport on Finchley Road. Subject to the necessary planning consents, the site could be redeveloped into a small apartment block or town houses.
Sole Agent ÂŁ2,295,000 Freehold
Century Court St John’s Wood, NW8 A beautifully refurbished three bedroom, two bathroom fourth floor apartment (1,230 sq ft / 114 sq m) with a balcony set within this well located building next to Lord’s Cricket Ground. Century Court features an impressive lobby with 24 hour uniformed porterage and two passenger lifts. The apartment has undergone an extensive renovation programme including air conditioning. Basement storage is also included. A secure parking space is available by separate negotiation.
Joint Sole Agent £2,095,000 Share of Freehold
West End Office
St Johns Wood Office
49 Welbeck Street, London, W1G 9XN
102 St John’s Wood Terrace, London NW8 6PL
enquiries@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com
info@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com
020 7486 9665
020 7722 2223
Beyond your expectations www.hamptons.co.uk
The Bishops Avenue, N2 This fabulous 6 bedroom double-fronted detached house, on a generous secluded plot in one of North London’s most prestigious residential avenues, extends to approx. 3,500 sq. ft to include 4 reception rooms, a stylish kitchen/breakfast room, a superb master suite and a detached double garage. EPC: E
Guide Price £4,000,000 Freehold • • • •
•
Hamptons Hampstead Office Sales. 02077175449 | Lettings. 02077175333
Six bedrooms Two reception rooms kitchen breakfast room – dining room Master bedroom with en–suite bathroom & dressing room Double garage, 75’ x 65’ rear garden
The Lodge, North End Avenue, NW3 Presenting a very rare and exciting opportunity, The Lodge is a fully detached house occupying the most tranquil of settings within a small private enclave abutting Hampstead Heath, offered for sale with planning permission to extend and remodel to create a sensational and truly one-off residence. EPC: D
Guide Price £3,850,000 Freehold • • • • • •
Detached house with planning permission Three bedrooms Reception room, sitting room Kitchen breakfast room, Dining room Large garden Integral double garage & driveway parking
International
Agent Jeremy Karpel, co-director of TK International, explains why local knowledge is better than an international approach and how focussing closer to home leads to life-long partnerships
property
J
eremy Karpel, one of three directors at TK International, co-founded the company in 1998 after working in the industry for two noted local firms for around a decade. But with a background in interior design and architecture, and a short stint in the film industry designing sets for Warner Brothers, he has also been heavily involved in the company’s recent logo rebrand, as well as its cutting-edge new website redevelopment. This includes a drone tour of Hampstead that can be viewed online, and local area guides with interactive maps showing all of the schools in the surrounding area, complete with the corresponding facts, statistics and Ofsted reports. “The new interactive website has been about nine months in the making, because ultimately, schooling is the reason people move to Hampstead. It’s what drives them here,” says Jeremy. “However, with so many local competitors, and with the rise of online sites such as Zoopla and Rightmove, we wanted to make the most of our local knowledge and connections. With the internet these days, anyone can have an international reach, but we have a niche product.
getting to work. She said to me, ‘you must know your product’. When I took her credit card to pay for the lighter, I saw that she was Lady Sainsbury, and that piece of advice has stuck with me ever since. We know our product inside out. And knowledge is power. “It’s important to us that we support both the vendor and the buyer, even if the latter hasn’t been successful in securing the property,” he continues. “In this area especially, there can be multiple buyers for each property, and we are there for those who have lost out as well as those who have been successful. Sometimes they need help getting back on the bike. Even if ultimately they don’t end up buying a house through us, we know that when it comes to selling, five, ten, or 20 years down the line that they will remember the service they received at TK, and will come back. Buying a property is an emotional process, and managing expectations is vital. In doing so, even if we miss out on the sale in the short term, in the long term we have made a friend, and as a result, a life-long customer. Our buyers are the vendors of the future. We never like to convince them, only reassure: whatever someone is spending, it’s a lot to them.”
“A lot of vendors believe that prime property needs a big-name corporate to sell it, but that’s just not the case” We want people to feel like they are being served, and for the vendor, as well as the buyer, to be made to feel important, because they are.” Comparing the enduring appeal of TK’s market position to a well-known French bakery chain, Jeremy and the team at TK are proud to be a boutique agency that focuses on customer service. It’s this that earns them a good reputation, cemented by the volume of repeat business. “I remember being in Lille a decade or so ago and stumbling upon this cute little French bakery called Paul, which my wife and I would go to all the time, assuming it was a one-off local patisserie. But now that they’re everywhere, I never go in. And the same analogy goes for TK. We are continuing to focus on the local USP of the business – we don’t want to be Paul. A lot of vendors believe that prime property needs a big-name corporate to sell it, but that’s just not the case.” With three directors based in the recently expanded Heath Street shop, which grew to hold the flourishing lettings department, Jeremy describes it as a “pressure cooker” of expertise. “A few grey hairs go a long way,” he jokes. “People who are interested in properties in Hampstead want to deal with people who have worked here a long time. Between me, the other directors Daniel Zimmerman and Daniel Epstein, and the rest of the sales and lettings teams, we know the roads, and the residents. It’s a handholding process. As a young boy I worked in retail, and I remember very clearly one afternoon showing a lady a Dunhill lighter that I was having trouble
Talk turns to Crossrail and the impact it will have on greater London, producing ever more pockets in which to invest in property. Jeremy refers to Andrew Marr’s BBC Megacities series, in which the political commentator emphasises that the growth of cities is not merely “the great story of our time” and “one of the biggest gambles the human race has taken”, but also “the biggest shift in human civilisation since the birth of agriculture”. “We shouldn’t feel guilty about living in the South East of England or in the capital,” says Jeremy. “We have always attracted, and will continue to attract, the high-flyers of the international community. And it’s not just the so-called oligarchs, whose influence over the London property market has been vastly hyperbolised by the media. The most satisfying thing is seeing a young professional buy their first one bedroom flat, which after a few years they trade for a two bedroom version, moving perhaps onto a three bedroom garden flat once they marry or start a family, and then, a few years down the line, through a good work ethic and their own determination, can afford to buy a property at the top-end of the scale. It’s something to be celebrated, and that’s what we like to do at TK. “Sure, the London property market has its ups and downs, its bumps in the road. But if you’ve been in the game as long as we have, you’re used to seeing it through and coming out the other side.” n
Visit TK’s in depth new website, t-k.co.uk 16-20 Heath Street, NW3; 020 7794 8700
125
FERNCROFT AVENUE HAMPSTEAD NW3
A handsome six bedroom Edwardian double fronted detached house of almost 5,500 sq ft commanding an elevated position and set back from the road behind a carriage driveway and occupying one of the largest plots within the ‘Croft Roads’. A particular feature of this grand home is the 133’ x 61’ lawned garden that runs all the way through to its rear boundary on Hollycroft Avenue. It may be possible to create a discrete detached leisure/guest annexe including an indoor swimming pool to the rear of the garden subject to the usual planning consents. EPC Rating C.
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Accommodation Drawing Room | Dining Room | Reception Room | Kitchen/Breakfast Room Family Room | Cinema | Gymnasium | Six Bedrooms | Five Bathrooms (Three En-Suite) Self Contained Staff Suite with Kitchen and Separate Entrance | Utility Room Guest WC | Extensive Storage Areas
ÂŁ8,250,000 Freehold Sole Selling Agent
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Visit us at 60 Queens Grove, London NW8
020 7483 0101 60 Queens Grove, London / NW8 6ER
www.laurenceleigh.com
Shirland Road, Maida Vale, W9 Accessed on the first floor of this attractive period property is a stunning duplex apartment occupying the entire upper two floors. The flat comprises approximately 1295 sq ft/120sq m of internal accommodation and is offered in excellent decorative condition. the house is situated on the east side of Shirland Road close to its junction with Sutherland Avenue
Leasehold ÂŁ2,495,000 Joint Sole Asking Price: ÂŁ1,150,000 Sole Agent Agent
Bermuda’s Luxury Real Estate Specialist Whether you are seeking a beach, boating or golf estate, historic home, private island or quality condominium, Sinclair Realty offers the finest cache of properties in Tucker’s Town and island-wide. As Bermuda’s exclusive affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate, we look forward to providing you with the depth of expertise and excellence that is characteristic of everything Christie’s does.
Tel +1 441 296 0278 | estates@logic.bm | www.sinclairrealty.com
SINC03-1761 Kens & Chelsea Mag.indd 1
WHY BUY BERMUDA? Geographic Convenience • London – less than 7 hours • New York – 2 hours • Toronto – 2.5 hours
Quality of Life • Britain’s oldest self-governing overseas territory • International financial centre • One of the world’s highest standards of living • Subtropical climate • Pink sand beaches & turquoise waters • Miles of world-class golf • No personal or corporate income tax or capital gains tax
Tel +1 441 296 0278 | estates@logic.bm | www.sinclairrealty.com
Fr / 2/6/15 11:18
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Rental experts in London’s prime real estate
STUNNING DUPLEX PENTHOUSE TO LET
10 Lancelot Place 10 Lancelot Place LANCELOT PLACE, KNIGHTSBRIDGE SW7 London, SW7 1DR London, SW7 1DR This magnificent duplex penthouse apartment in Knightsbridge
is positioned opposite Harrods and overlooks Hyde Park offering striking panoramic views across London from the heart of the capital. 7,327 square feet (680.6 square metres) of internal space and 2,438 square feet (226.5 square metres) of external
18,000 Per week (+ admin fees) 8,000 Per week (+ admin fees)
phillipsharrod.com
0207 1234 152
space. Master bedroom (en-suite dressing room and bathroom), 4 further bedrooms (2 en-suite), shower room, 3 reception rooms, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, utility room, 2 guest cloakrooms. 24 hour concierge service, underground parking (for 3 cars), gym, swimming pool and sauna. EPC Rating=C.
£18,
Phillips Harrod are delighted to be sole agents for this outstan utstanding duplex penthouse apartment set on the 9th and 10th floors of this prestigious private building in one of the anding duplex penthouse apartment set on the 9th and 10th floors of this prestigious private building in one of the world’s finest locations. This magnificent apartment in Knights nightsbridge is positioned opposite Harrods and overlooks Hyde Park offering striking panoramic views across London tsbridge is positioned opposite Harrods and overlooks Hyde Park offering striking panoramic views across London £18,000 per week (plus admin fees) from the heart of the capital.
SOLE AGENT
With private direct access to the entrance lobby from two lifts wo lifts, the apartment is offered in superb condition. The accommodation comprises 7327 square feet (680.6 square fts, the apartment is offered in superb condition. The accommodation comprises 7327 square feet (680.6 square metres) of internal space and 2,438 square feet (226.5 square quare metres) of external space, having a Master bedroom with en-suite dressing room and bathroom, two bedrooms are metres) of external space, having a Master bedroom with en-suite dressing room and bathroom, two bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, two further bedrooms, shower room, oom, two large reception rooms, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, family room, utility room and a guest wc on each m, two large reception rooms, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, family room, utility room and a guest wc on each floor.
To celebrate opening in Queens Park we’ll sell your property for FREE
Opening Doors in London since 1856
Bristol Gardens W9 ÂŁ1,900,000 A rarely available three-bedroom maisonette set over the raised and lower ground floor of a stunning stucco fronted period conversion with access to communal gardens. Share of Freehold. EPC=F
Little Venice: 020 7993 3050 sales.lve@marshandparsons.co.uk
Sutherland Avenue W9 ÂŁ1,475,000 A unique two-bedroom garden flat with its own entrance, private garden and newly built garden room located in sought-after section of Sutherland Avenue. Share of Freehold. EPC=C
Little Venice: 020 7993 3050 sales.lve@marshandparsons.co.uk
Berens Road NW10 ÂŁ1,395,000 A really exceptional four-bedroom Victorian house with a beautifully designed interior, boasting high ceilings, many original features, charming garden and fantastic roof terrace. Freehold. EPC=D
North Kensington: 020 7313 8350 sales.nkn@marshandparsons.co.uk
Gilbey House NW1 ÂŁ1,250,000 A fabulous two-bedroom apartment situated within a converted gin distillery benefiting from underground parking, gym, sauna and 24 hour concierge. Leasehold. EPC=B
Camden: 020 7244 2200 sales.cam@marshandparsons.co.uk
Elegant, high-end dwelling exquisitely decorated throughout Matching people and property in London for 150 years.