NZ Winegrower June-July 2012

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CONTENTS

ISSUE 74

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R E GULARS

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Editorial

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Cover Crops

Tessa Nicholson

Max Marriott looks at how three different vineyards in Central Otago have used cover crops as part of their organic regime.

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From the CEO

Philip Gregan

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In Brief

News from around the country

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John Avery MW

New Zealand wine lost one of its greatest advocates recently when renowned wine personality John Avery died in England.

Nick Nobilo pays tribute.

24 Bob’s Blog

Bob Campbell MW

34 Sommelier’s Corner

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Chinese Import Channels

Master of Wine Debra Melberg is an expert on the Hong Kong and Chinese markets and has some sound adv ice for companies looking to export into both countries. She takes a closer look at potential import channels.

Cameron Douglas MS

44 Money Matters

Marcus Phillips from NZForex

62 Calendar

Wine events happening in New Zealand

63 Research Supplement

The latest science and research projects funded by NZ Winegrowers FRONT COVER PHOTO: Supplied by Wines from Martinborough

FEATURES

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Picking for Charity

One Waitaki wine company has been helping raise funds for the New Zealand Spinal Trust for the past four years. Ostler Wines owner, Jim Jerram, explains how.

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E D I TO R Tessa Nicholson tessa.nicholson@me.com

FROM THE EDITOR TESSA NICHOLSON

CO R R E S P O N D E NTS Auckland: Joelle Thomson jthomson@xtra.co.nz Gisborne: Marg Willimott marg.willimott@gisborneherald. co.nz Gisborne: Christine Boyce christineboyce@gmail.com Hawkes Bay: Mary Shanahan westclan@clear.net.nz Nelson: Neil Hodson neil@hodgson.net.nz Canterbury: Jo Burzynska joburzynska@talk21.com Central Otago: Max Marriott max@maxmarriott.com

A DV E R T I S I N G Ros Sellers nzwinegrower@xtra.co.nz Ph: 07 827 8648 Fax: 07 827 8631 Mobile: 021 190 3877 www.nzwinegrower.co.nz

C I R C U L AT I O N & SUBSCRIPTIONS Lorraine Rudelj lorraine@nzwine.com Ph: 09 303 3527 Fax: 09 302 2969 New Zealand Winegrowers PO Box 90 276, Auckland Mail Centre, New Zealand

PUBLISHING & P R E - P R E SS Rural News Group PO Box 3855, Auckland 1140 Ph: 09 307 0399 Location: Top Floor, 29 Northcroft Street, Takapuna, Auckland 0622 Publisher: Brian Hight Managing Editor: Adam Fricker Production: Dave Ferguson, Rebecca Williams

Published by Rural News Group Ltd under authority of New Zealand Winegrowers (jointly representing Wine Institute of New Zealand Inc and New Zealand Grape Growers Council Inc). Unless directly attributed, opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Rural News Group and/ or its directors or management, New Zealand Winegrowers or its constituent organisations.

Published every second month.

One free copy is mailed to every member of the Institute, the Council, the New Zealand Society of Viticulture & Oenology and the New Zealand Vine Improvement Group, and to such other persons or organisations as directed by the owners, with provision for additional copies and other recipients to be on a subscription basis.

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// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

PREPARING FOR 2013

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t has been a tough vintage for everyone with a noticeable lack of sunshine during summer months, periods of heavy rain when we didn’t want them, then the drawn out autumn that provided perfect late ripening conditions.

While the wines of 2012 promise to be outstanding, growers and wineries have faced a considerable drop in yields. Early New Zealand Winegrowers estimates put the vintage at approximately 300,000 tonnes, down from last year’s high of 328,000.

But those estimates were pre harvest – the reality is likely to be far less. Which in terms of the woes of recent years, is good news long term.

Unfortunately it isn’t good news for growers and wineries in the short term, given the financial situation many are in.

There is another issue that will raise itself now vintage is over. What do growers do in terms of setting up the vines for vintage 2013? With a very cool December 2011 in many parts of the country, initiation this coming December is likely to be much lower than in previous years. Given many growers have pruned to three and in some cases two canes in an effort to manage yields, what should they do this coming year? Should they retain three canes, or should they go back to four?

Research shows that even if you increase the cane numbers by 25 per cent, it won’t necessarily equate to a 25 per cent increase in yield. Should you increase bud numbers, or is the likelihood of near on perfect conditions at flowering likely to see your yields rise to beyond suitable levels?

Yield estimates should begin now, with wineries and growers working together to determine just what the

best course of action is, prior to the pruners moving into the vineyard.

All scenarios have to be considered.

What will happen if there is a repeat of the poor flowering conditions of this vintage? What is the likelihood of a perfect flowering – and what is the cost going to be if there is too much fruit on the vines, come January 2013.

New Zealand Winegrowers will be sending members an information sheet that will help you to make those all important decisions.

On another note, July 1 is looming and for wineries that means another increase in Excise Tax. After last year, any further rise is bordering on destructive. With the Alcohol Law Reform Bill still making its way through parliament, and the impact that may have on cellar doors around the country, the increase of excise, could well be the last straw. If you think I protest too much, consider these figures provided to me by Neil Ibbotson of Saint Clair Wines in Marlborough.

Approximately $2.00 per bottle, on all local wine sold in New Zealand goes to the Government.

This equates approximately to $170 million paid to the Government per year from the New Zealand wine industry by way of excise tax.

In Marlborough alone that is close to $127 million.

Growers (in Marlborough) receive approximately $1400 per tonne for their grapes, whilst the Government takes the equivalent of approximately $2000 per tonne.

How ludicrous is that? It’s time for all industry members to start lobbying even harder for a change in attitude. Maybe, someone, somewhere will start to listen.

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FROM THE CEO PHILIP GREGAN

A CHANGING WINE WORLD Vintage is all but over as I write this column. We don’t have the final vintage numbers yet but it is clear to all that the vintage will be well down on last year - the only question is by how much.

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or growers the end of harvest means they will be contemplating the financial result from the year’s work. For most, the news will not be good. Low yields and grape prices mean most growers will not have fared well in the past 12 months. Ironically the cause of the tough times this year is not too many grapes, but not enough.

For wineries, the end of vintage means the task of marketing and selling the new vintage can get under way.

However this year the challenge for many wineries will be one of allocating a scarce resource, rather than soul searching as to where the sales will be made. A smaller vintage will mean lower sales and lower income streams for many.

The changed supply demand balance in the industry is likely to have a major impact on industry performance over the next year.

But the world into which the industry is selling is also changing and as industry we would be wise to keep a watchful eye on those changes, now and into the future.

Social Conservatism means Social Responsibility In some markets in which we sell wine there appears to be a growing social conservatism around matters relating to alcohol. Whether this social conservatism is caused by the aging of populations, the tough financial times, growing perceptions of problems from excessive ‘alcohol’ consumption or other causes it is difficult to say. However, it is manifested in markets such as the UK and New Zealand (our two biggest volume markets) by legislators considering law changes such as minimum pricing, raising the age of purchase and possible restrictions on advertising. Such law changes will have direct impact on wine markets if they are enacted.

In this more conservative social environment it is important the industry demonstrate its awareness of the changed landscape by showing it is socially responsible. This point was made strongly in the recent PriceWaterhouseCoopers strategic review. Now more than ever we must be socially aware and socially responsible.

The Pacific Century The 20th century was the so-called Atlantic Century dominated (for good or bad) by the wealth and happenings in Europe and North America (think WWI, the Great Depression, WW2, The Cold War etc). Many commentators now believe the 21st century will be the Pacific Century where global developments are shaped by the interplay between the rising power and wealth of Asian countries (notably China) and the existing dominant global super-power, the USA. For the wine industry the rising consumption of wine in countries such as China is already starting to make its impact. Did you know, for example, that China is already the largest export market for NZ Cabernet Sauvignon and blends, and it is our third largest market for Merlot.

The growing importance of Asian markets, and indeed Pacific Rim countries in general is something that needs to be recognised by our industry. It means we will have new consumers often with unfamiliar cultures and languages. We need

to invest more effort into these markets and we need to ensure that our access to such markets is competitive, which means trade pacts such as the TransPacific Partnership are vital to our future.

Our future, there is no doubt, will be strongly influenced by Pacific developments, which puts us very much at the centre of the 21st century world.

Sustainability There are still some people in the industry who question the growing focus of our industry on matters sustainable. While there may be arguments about the degree or the way forward, there is no doubt in my mind that being able to demonstrate our environmental credentials is just as vital as being socially responsible and economically profitable. In a world dominated by a resource hungry, booming human population, being able to say we care for and look after the environment in which we grow our grapes and make our wine, is going to be a vital pre-requisite to market place success in the upper end market segments in which we operate. ■

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 5

REGIONAL VIEWPOINT

WAIPARA VALLEY SMALL BUT PERFECTLY FORMED G W Y N W I L L I A M S , C H A I R WA I PA R A VA L L E Y W I N E G R O W E R S

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ur winegrowing area is centered around the small North Canterbury township of Waipara, about 45 minutes drive from Christchurch and at the junction of State Highway 1 and 7. Amberley is the main service town for the region.

Historically the farming area was dry sheep and crop, dominated by north-westerly winds and south-westerly weather.

It can be drought prone in the summer, and cool and dry in the winters, with low and very PHOTO: NZW

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unpredictable rainfall.

The dominant land features are the eastern hills which shelter the valley from cool easterly winds from the ocean, a significant point of difference from most of the Canterbury plains. The soils in the Valley range from very light river gravels, clay, as well as clay limestone areas.

With such low rainfall and light soils in some places, water harvesting developed in the late 1970’s and early 80’s and offered the opportunity for pasture farmers to look to other crops. Three such farms diversified into grapes and with the support of Corbans Wines produced grapes commercially from 1986. Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet were the initial plantings.

However, it’s worth noting here that this was not the earliest venture into grapes in Waipara. One intrepid farmer had planted grapes on return from an overseas trip in the 1960’s but alas the

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

young vineyard was destroyed by a flood. If it had not been devastated, its success would have changed the history of the region.

By the early 90’s other developments had taken place and two of the suppliers to Corbans completed their initial contract periods and opted to produce their own labels. The third farmer continued to supply Riesling and this was the fruit for the noted “Robard & Butler” Amberley Riesling, a regular medal winner at wine shows.

The region saw development, sometimes rapidly from the mid 90’s, both on a large and small scale. Investors set up projects that exploited soil types, wine styles, and the business models they were pursuing. Now, the vineyard plantings total more than 1800 hectares, with grapes spreading to Waikari, Hawarden, Hanmer and Cheviot.

Some of the larger vineyards are operated by Pernod Ricard, Waiata, Mt. Beautiful, Mudhouse, Southern Boundary Wines, Pegasus Bay, Crater Rim, and Greystone \ Muddy Water. In addition there are over 20 other producers of varying sizes.

Characteristically the region is one of producers, or growers intimately connected to producers. In other words the number of contract growers in the

region is barely negligible.

The Waipara Valley is a mix of vineyard varieties and designs.

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris are prevalent. There are sprinklings of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chenin Blanc and other minor varieties. Designs are varied from the old standard 3m rows by 1.8meter vine spacing down to 1.0m rows with variable vine spacing. Nothing is standard here!

These design variations have been motivated by growers to better utilize the land available to them, grow fruit that does not have excessive yields per vine and ultimately to be economic.

Fully committed to the Sustainable NZ programme, Waipara also has participants in the Organic Winegrowing initiative. The region has benefited from its commitment to the “Greening Waipara” project, teaming together Lincoln University, property owners and the Local District Council. Bio diversity plantings in vineyards and surrounding areas have enhanced our environment.

Waipara is now an established region with diversity amongst its producers and wines, and an important part of the story of New Zealand Wine. ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 7

IN BRIEF

Auckland

HAWKES BAY

New GM Commercial at Villa Maria Rob Ferguson has been appointed as General Manager Commercial of Villa Maria Estate.

A qualified accountant, he joined Villa Maria following close to 17 years at Diageo Plc. in the United Kingdom. Rob held a number of senior positions at Diageo Plc. in Finance, Strategy, Change Management and General Management, the last being the Finance and Commercial Services Director for the Diageo wine businesses, Percy Fox & Co. and Justerini & Brooks.

Sir George Fistonich continues in his role as Chief Executive to focus more of his time on long term strategy and brand development.

New Operations Manager for Portavin New Zealand Peter Chipperfield has been appointed Operations Manager for Portavin New Zealand and will be responsible for all aspects of the day to day running of this site, which is centrally located in the Auckland suburb of Penrose.

Peter joins Portavin from Pernod Ricard, where he was Packaging Manager at the Tamaki Bottling facility in Auckland.

Chipperfield describes his role as ensuring Portavin NZ offers the highest quality wine bottling, technical and logistics Peter services to meet the needs of Chipperfield customers. Established in 2009, Portavin NZ is owned by Portavin Australia, the largest independent wine services supplier, in Australasia.

Black Barn Vineyards One Of World’s Best Based in Havelock North, Black Barn Vineyards has been rated as one of the world’s greatest vineyard inns and hotels by US travel guide Frommers.

It was one of only two Australasian vineayrds to make the top 10 list.

While only a small operation, Frommers were impressed by Black Barn’s accomodation, amphitheatre and Bistro.

The vineyard is ranked alongside such luminaries as Chateau Andre Ziltener in Burgundy, The Yeatman Hotel and Wine Spa in Portugal, and The Louise in the Barossa.

Contact us now before the next big frost!

Tel Chch (03) 929 0451

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// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

HAWKES BAY Our World in Your Glass Limited to 25 international guests, Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers will share some of the region’s wine tourism, experiences, history and challenges, early next year. This is an interactive 2 day programme held throughout the region with competition, blind tasting, wine options, speed dating and some great fun. Subtitled, – the best view of Hawke’s Bay you’ll ever see – the event is planned prior to Pinot Noir 2013, on Thursday 24th and Friday 25th January 2013. More details available from Lyn Bevin at; lynb@winehawkesbay.co.nz

Hawke’s Bay Winery For Sale A single estate producer, Hawke’s Bay’s Askerne winery is on the market for the first time. John and Kathryn Loughlin established the winery on the western side of the Tukituki River near Havelock North in 1993. Since then, the husband-and-wife team have planted 13 varieties of grapes on the 20ha property. The winery has also been a venue for popular summer events, regularly hosting concerts with a family focus.

A professional company director and former chairman of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers, Loughlin says it’s time for another chapter in life. The business is being marketed by Bayleys.

Marlborough

Mission Buys Awatere Vineyard

Cellar Door Initiative

Mission Estate has bought the iconic Cape Campbell vineyard in the Awatere Valley and its former owners, Murray and Daphne Brown will stay on to manage it.

The 100 hectares are planted mainly in Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

The purchase is one of the largest in the Marlborough region in a number of years, and is viewed as a positive reinforcement of the quality emanating from the Awatere Valley.

Mission Estate has said the purchase is consistent with the company’s philosophy of sourcing fruit from the best wine growing regions of New Zealand.

■

Wine consultant Belinda Jackson, winejobsoneline Heather Battersby and social media expert Jamie Roy held their first national Cellar Door course in Marlborough last month.

Aimed at making cellar doors more viable and profitable entities of the business, the course focused on making customers life long ambassadors for the brand.

The first of its kind held in New Zealand, Jackson says it won’t be a one off.

Instead the group will be taking the course on the road to all other wine growing regions, in the near future.

Nelson Best Cellar Door A mystery shopper survey of Nelson Cellar doors has shown visitors are receiving an excellent experience, along with their wine tasting. Nelson Winegrowers Association General Manager, Gisela Purcell, says the mystery shopper survey was judged on various criteria covering staff, service and delivery

of information.

The association commissioned the survey to get objective feedback on cellar door service, to identify ‘stand-outs’ and to reveal areas that could be improved.

Woollaston Estates returned the best survey results and was the winner of the competition, with Brightwater Vineyards runner up.

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 9

VINEYARD NEWS

COVER CROPS IN CENTRAL OTAGO MAX MARRIOTT

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n many ways, Central Otago lends itself to organic vineyard management and farming. However, by the same token, the nature of the climate and soils constitutes significant obstacles to overcome. Promoting organic matter and a soil biomass is one of the key goals, be it part of an organic regime or a conventional one. It’s no secret that cover crops can greatly assist in this regard, with the improvement to soil structure alone helping to alleviate erosion, increase water retention, facilitate better drainage and encourage efficient nutrient cycling.

There are also additional advantages associated with ben-

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eficial insects, biodiversity, sustainability and health. However each site, each sub-region within Central Otago – and across the country for that matter – has its own quirks and attributes that need to be explored in identifying which cover crops are most suitable to each plot of land. Three viticulturists/vineyard managers from three different sub-regions of Central Otago give their take on what works best for them.

Nick Paulin, vineyard manager for Peregrine.

“There’s some pretty hard evidence of the benefits of cover crops; the Rodale Institute (www. rodaleinstitute.org) has been doing trials for decades. To me, it’s

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

diversity and enhancing the soil. In saying that, you can definitely mismanage the use of cover crops too.

I think you have to have a purpose; there’s no point planting something if you don’t know what it does. It’s a conscious decision to enhance an aspect of the vineyard; soil organic matter, biodiversity, moisture competition, nitrogen fixing, whatever. Each cover crop has its own purpose.”

“Ground preparation is critical and ideally you don’t want to leave the soil bare. Having the right tools for the job is important. To direct drill, you need to have a direct drill, and if you’re sowing into heavy grass, you need to cultivate to have it established. But over-cultivating

happens too; rotary hoe’s a classic.

It’s a pretty nasty piece of equipment. You chop the soil into a million pieces and undo the work that you’re trying to achieve. You might get away with one pass, rather than three passes with a set of discs, but you don’t want to do three passes with a rotary hoe. Whilst aeration is critical, cultivation can be detrimental; it’s a step back to take three steps forward.”

“We used triticale and peas (4 of every 10 rows) and it worked, but it should have been sown a month earlier to take advantage of that spring growth. Our flowering crop was a mixture of mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, red and white clover. The strike was good, but again, the summer hit and it dried out. At the end of the day, it’s down to the individual grower – some vineyards in Central can’t grow anything in winter, and we struggle to grow things in summer. I know what worked in Bannockburn and it doesn’t work in Bendigo. It’s early days though – I’m going to do some trials this autumn to see what works. It might take five years, but then you have the full benefit of the money you’re investing.”

Just down the road at Northburn, Viticulturist Shane Livingstone has to tackle things differently.

“For us, the challenges of establishing a cover crop comes with low potential soils, long periods without moisture and cold

our phacelia, alyssum and buckwheat mix throughout the blocks in spring, and we’ll use other flowering species too, but it’s really hard to get things established.”

“Our plan now is to sow in early March. We did this after the rain in February; a mix of rye corn, mustard, sheep’s burnett, white lupins and rape. The idea is to sow

soil establishment temperatures.

However, these are the reasons we are trying to grow cover crops; moisture retention, soil fertility, cycling and conditioning.”

“The timing of planting is key. It has to be done as the soil is warming up, before it dries out too much. In this past season I planted a blend of buckwheat, plantain and chicory. It took a while to establish and for the second season in a row I found myself mowing during flowering because it was too dry and the buckwheat had curled up.

But it was surprising to find that the chicory and particularly the plantain had continued to grow through the summer. I’ll look to substitute phacelia for buckwheat next season.”

Blair Deaker, Viticulturist for Carrick, is based on the Cairnmuir side of Bannockburn with very sandy soils.

“Generally people sow in the spring, but that doesn’t work for us. We’ve tried cultivars of rye

corn and fodder barley or fodder oats as single species. Yes, we get strikes, but when summer hits they die off and the fat hen takes over. The climate, the sand, everything – it just doesn’t work. We do

in February so it strikes and gets settled into the ground. It then overwinters, and grows away in spring as it warms up. Then we’ll either mow it or turn it in. It could be an 18month turnaround, being mindful of spring frosts. Gareth at Felton Road on the other side of Bannockburn uses triticale, but it doesn’t work for us. We’re trying to work on things that will actually live for us.”

Whilst these three growers manage to certified organic regimes, there are other vineyards in the district using cover crops.

Mike Wing, at Two Paddocks, has sown chicory to utilize its deep tap root to help break up the large chunks of schist in their soils, and Archangel has planted a buckwheat and phacelia mix for the past couple of seasons. It need not be an expensive exercise and growers who have tried and experimented will tell you it’s an integral part of vineyard management. max@maxmarriott.com ■

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 11

ANNUAL CONFERENCE

BRAGATO 2012 TESSA NICHOLSON

T

his is the year that New Zealand Winegrowers geared itself to having 100 per cent of members enrolled in a sustainability programme. Which makes it highly appropriate that sustainability in all forms is the theme for the upcoming Romeo Bragato Conference.

Being held in Marlborough between August 22 and 24, the conference has been thoroughly revamped, following a review of the event last year. NZW’s Science and Innovation Manager, Philip Manson, said the revamping will see the conference shortened in length in an effort to cut participant’s costs, but will see no compromise in terms of the programme.

“Instead of a three day event, this year’s conference will be held from Wednesday morning through until Friday afternoon, so members will only have to pay for two night’s accommodation, not three.

But we will be providing the same

bang for bucks, in terms of content,” Manson said.

The theme, Driving The Export Advantage Through Sustainability will focus not just on what is happening in vineyards and wineries, but also how to ensure sustainability in the business sense.

a senior engineer with AWRI in Australia on green ideas that balance the carbon ledger, Professor Gerhard Pietersen from South Africa dealing with Leafroll virus and Phil Reedman from Australia on South American wines and how they fit into the evolving world

“It is a chance to socialise with others who are facing the exact same issues as you.”

– Philip Manson

“This year our motivational speaker is John Anderson, who established Contiki Tours. His ability to create and grow a business in tough times is something that many people will relate to.”

Other guest speakers include; business journalist Rob Oram who will focus on his view of where New Zealand is placed in terms of sustainability and the best business approach to making the most of it, Karl Forsyth

wine market.

Manson said the session on South American wines is one that needs to be addressed by New Zealand, given they have made rapid changes in terms of quality and market share.

“They used to be considered as wines that were at the opposite end of the spectrum to New Zealand – but that is rapidly changing. They are now moving into the same space that we want to fill, so

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A wine tasting of South American wines is included in the programme.

While there will be no Silver Secateurs this year, the Markham’s Young Viticulturist will still be a part of the programme, as will the Bragato Wine Awards and dinner.

The latest research findings will once again make up a large component of the conference, along with lessons learnt from the difficult 2012 vintage.

Manson described the Romeo Bragato conference as one of the most important annual events for all industry members.

“It provides a forum to catch up on all the latest news, research and innovation, plus it is a chance to socialise with others who are facing the exact same issues as you.”

Registrations for Romeo Bragato 2012 are now open and the programme is available at www. bragato.org.nz tessa.nicholson@me.com ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 13

IN MEMORY OF

JOHN AVERY MW NICK NOBILO

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t was with great sadness that the wine industry received news of the passing of John Avery MW on 23rd March.

Aged 70 he died following a sudden heart attack.

John inherited Averys of Bristol Fine Wine Merchants company in 1976 after the death of his famous father Ronald Avery.

For 200 years the Avery family has been an integral part of the Bristol mercantile establishment bringing in wines from Europe, and bottling these in their bonded warehouses at Bristol for the British market.

In 1975 John gained his Master of Wine degree and after taking over the business became increasingly interested in the emerging wines of the New World.

Champion Wine of the Show, he ordered a pallet for his private customers in the UK. This was the first commercial import of New Zealand wine into the UK and from

John Avery will be remembered as a man of integrity, generosity, wit and immense knowledge of wine In 1979 he was invited to be Chief Judge at the New Zealand National Wine Competition and was immediately impressed with the quality. After the 1976 Nobilo Cabernet Sauvignon was judged

then on until his death John continued to champion the merits of New Zealand wines.

His knowledge of wine, particularly the great vintages of Europe was astounding. At the numerous

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wine dinners he hosted he would intrigue and impress his guests in his booming Oxford University accent, keeping them guessing at the rare vintage wrapped in a brown paper bag that he presented from his private cellar.

To those who knew him personally he was always a kind and genial person. I remember once when I was in the UK during the early nineties and we were driving out of London to see a customer, when I noticed in the newspaper that a near new Jaguar was for sale.

I told John that a new law had just passed in New Zealand allowing

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second-hand cars to be imported and it would nice to own this one.

He quizzingly asked, “Nobilo do you really want to buy this car?”

I said yes but didn’t have the money with me. He stopped the car looked at the address and said that’s not far from here and then drove to the house where the car was, pulled out his chequebook and wrote the cheque. I think I may have paid him back in wine!

That was the measure of the man.

Although disorganised and invariably late for appointments John was highly intelligent and loved theatre (one of his sons is an actor). He invested in Andrew Lloyd Webber when he was an unknown and established Andrew’s wine cellar at his home in Watership Down near Hampshire. In 2000 John was elected

Chairman of the Institute of the Masters of Wine and was a director of prestigious London based Vintners Company. He became a sought after international wine judge regularly judging at competitions around the world right up until his death.

John Avery will be remembered as a man of integrity, generosity, wit and immense knowledge of wine who contributed immensely to the world of wine.

He was a doyen of wine promotion and his contribution in promoting New Zealand’s wine industry for more than 30 years is immeasurable. John is survived by his lovely wife Sarah and four children, one of whom Mimi, continues in her father’s footsteps running the Avery’s company today. ■

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RABOBANK REPORT

THE CONUNDRUM OF BULK WINE TESSA NICHOLSON

L

atest figures show that bulk wine exports out of New Zealand rose to 35% in 2011, up from approximately 5% in 2007 and 30% in 2010. But is this all bad, and is New Zealand any different to other new world producers?

Not according to a Rabobank International report released in January. In The Incredible Bulk

16

– The Rise in Global Bulk Wine Trade, the figures show New Zealand is following in the footsteps of all other new world producers. For example Australia used to export 10% of its wine in bulk back in the 1990s. By 2011, that had increased to just shy of 50% (i.e. 49%). In just one decade, the increase in bulk wine exports from new world producers has

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

increased from approximately one fifth to nearly one-half of all wine traded.

Here at home there has been much hand wringing over the bulk export issue. Are we shooting ourselves in the foot by supplying bulk wine to overseas companies for their own label, which will directly compete with our more expensive bottled wines? Are we

selling too cheap? Are we devaluing our brand?

To answer those questions, there is a need to understand just why the bulk export market has grown so exponentially. And surprisingly the Rabobank report points out not all the reasons have to do with off-loading surplus wine.

“The advent of bulk wine trans-

portation logistics has provided wine suppliers with a safe and reliable alternative to shipping masses of glass across the world,” the report states. “While this innovation has definite environmental benefits, it must be said that the over riding driver of bulk wine transportation is cost reduction.”

Brand owners are able to save on transportation costs, import duties, glass and bottling costs, working capital and even foreign exchange exposure due to the cost of packaging being paid in the destination – market currency. Added together, these cost savings can be significant to a producer, depending of course on the scale of the company.

“For suppliers interviewed, estimates of cost savings have ranged from USD 1.50 to USD 3.00

per case, which is highly compelling for high volume, low margin brands.”

These savings however are lower for the lower volume, higher margin labels, who also may believe bottling away from source, impacts on the value of their “estate grown” wines.

“That said, as options for inmarket bottling expand and the process becomes more common place, there is a strong possibility this trend could extend to more premium brands as well. The dramatic growth of bulk wine in the export trade mix of the New Zealand wine industry is a case in point.”

The rise in bulk wine sales in the past decade, mirrors the growth in new world wine production. As consumer demand has

grown it has led to “democratisation of wine.”

“New world wine companies in particular have brought keenly priced, increasingly well-made and well-marketed wine products into the reach of more consumers around the world,” the report states.

All of a sudden, consumers have been able to purchase quality at reasonable prices – and that has impacted on the prices they are prepared to pay.

“That is, demand has become slightly more price sensitive, making it more costly for retailers and wine companies to take pricing higher.”

Fuelling that price conscious consumer is the economic climate in many major markets.

“In an environment of extreme

economic uncertainty, it is unsurprising that households have upped their savings and become increasingly value conscious, obligating suppliers and retailers to chase them down-market.

Given that demand for wine has been found to be highly income elastic, or responsive to changes in income levels, the category is particularly exposed to the prevailing economic climate.”

This has seen the supermarket chains in the UK especially, using wine more and more as a loss leader, to attract people through the door. It has directly led them to producing their own labels that now proliferate supermarket shelves. But it has also led to many producers of more premium brands searching for ways to cut production costs, so as to be able

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 17

to compete in such a tough economic climate.

So given this exponential rise in bulk wine sales in the past decade, what does the future hold?

For the past decade there has been dramatic vineyard expansion, not just in New Zealand, but in all new world countries. That has led to growth in new world production of almost 45% over the past 20 years. That could be about to change according to the Rabobank report.

“In more recent times, a process of structural and seasonal supply rationalisation has played out across the world’s major wine production zones. Ironically, moving forward, the continued growth in the trade of bulk wine may be driven by the trend of tightening global stocks. The tightening of the global supply situation is leading to increasing grape and bulk wine prices in many key supply countries, raising the cost of goods sold for wine companies. With

rising costs and difficulty raising prices in the current consumer environment, wine companies will be aggressively seeking ways

to reduce costs, and bottling inmarket may become an increasingly attractive option.”

Which may see even more of

New Zealand wine being shipped in bulk – while still being marketed as a premium product. tessa.nicholson@me.com ■

BULK – A PASSING FAD? There is nothing new about bulk wine sales. Up until the early 20th century, nearly all wine exported from countries like Italy, Spain and France, was shipped in bulk and then bottled by the merchants.

According to a recent article in thedrinksbusiness (The Estate Bottled Wine Anomoly, by Lee Winston, thedrinksbusiness February 9), even the most famous of wine Château Margaux was shipped in bulk, right up until 1948.

The move to bottling at source came about in the 1920s, when producers expressed concern about the provenance of the wine.

They never knew if their wine was being tampered with prior to bottling.

Now, into the 21st century, wine producing countries are again moving towards bulk shipments. Thedrinksbusiness article claims it is being led by Australia, who in 2011 exported 74% of its wine to the UK in bulk form. “Unfavourable exchange rates and increases in production costs, fuel prices and taxes have put an almost suffocating squeeze on the profit margins of Australian producers. Bulk shipping can potentially halve shipping costs.”

For New Zealand those costs are equally “suffocating.” There is also the issue of environmental impact of exporting in glass, versus bulk shipping and bottling at source.

18

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

Given the consumer move towards environmentally friendly products – especially in the UK – there is a sustainable element that is equally appealing to producers.

The article mentioned above, stated a report by the Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) looked at the impact of bulk shipping for wine quality.

The benefits are apparently not just economic.

• Bulk wine is less prone to large temperature variations • Bottling in-market can defer the start of shelf life • Easier to change packaging formats in response to market demands • Bulk shipping reduces environmental emissions The article even goes so far as to say that maybe the preference for exporting in bottle, may be a passing fad.

“It seems inevitable that the shipping of bulk wine and bottling in the market of consumption will once again become the preferred method for economic, environmental and quality reasons. Indeed history could show that the prevalence of estate bottling was just a passing fad of the 20th century.”

I guess time will tell.

EXPORT NEWS

CHINESE IMPORT CHANNELS TESSA NICHOLSON

A

s wine producers throughout the world scramble to get a foot in the door of the Chinese market, the question of what import channel should be utilised, keeps being raised. Debra Meiburg, one of Asia’s first Master’s of Wine is renowned as an expert on the Asian wine scene.

As the author of the book Guide to Hong Kong Wine Trade, she is

a fountain of knowledge on what to beware of when contemplating moving into the market, both in Hong Kong and mainland China.

There are a number of options facing wine producers, when looking at import channels Meiburg said. No surprises that in China there are state subsidised importers, of which Cofco is the most substantial. They import food, cereal, agricultural products and

wine. There are other large international producers who are also importing their own wines into China, along with international wine and spirits groups. Following on from the bigger players, are the independent importers, a category that used to be dominated by westerners.

“Increasingly you are now getting Chinese owned import channels,” Meiburg said. “Most

of them could pop into your winery and convince you they can do great things. But very few of them actually have access to outlets. You need to question them carefully about how many cities they have access to. You want to make a fundamental decision. Do you need to be all over the country, or just in a major city. Frankly I would just focus on a city for now. Even second tier cities have a huge base and

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 19

Debra Meiburg MW at the recent Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration.

PHOTO MAX MARRIOTT

market. It is actually a better use of your time, rather than diluting your efforts.”

She said Shanghai and Beijing are considered the “sexiest” cities for wine producers, but both are now saturated with labels, “If you are not already in those cities I would advise you to look at other second tier cities and try and build a strong relationship there.”

Following on from the independent wine importers, are the entrepreneurs that are already selling a multitude of products and have recently decided to add

wine to the mix.

“They sell cuttle fish, soy sauce and all kinds of other goods. The problem with those kinds of importers is they will never build your brand. It is a real buy, sell mentality, where they may see an opportunity to sell your product, because they have been reading all the headlines about wine sales growing. But they don’t understand the intricacies. They buy your wine thinking it is easy, but they don’t have the relationships to sell wine.”

As for the bane of New Zealand

producers selling domestically – supermarkets do not have a large presence in the Hong Kong and mainland China wine market.

“Our supermarkets don’t sell a lot of wine, because people aren’t drinking wine at home traditionally. So it’s not something that you pick up with your groceries.”

Given the preference for dining out, many producers have been keen to be listed on restaurant wine lists. However with the growth in wine auctions, Meiburg says many restaurants are embracing the BYO culture.

“We have always had a bit of a BYO culture, but now it is increasing. This is because so many people have wine collections and want to drink those wines in a restaurant setting. I would be a little cautious about getting onto those (restaurant) lists, because often the wine isn’t actually being sold through. When you go for a food and beverage listing, ask your importer about their contacts.

Getting onto a high Michelin style restaurant is the way to go, because you position yourself as an elegant brand. Just don’t expect a lot of sales.”

Instead the big growth in Hong Kong at least, is with the private client. The city has never had a history of retail outlets, given it is

small enough for daily deliveries.

“We have always bought directly from the importers, but now we do so more than ever. 32% of our business is direct client and growing.”

When talking with an importer, Meiburg says the important question to ask, is what their private client business is like. Do they supply wine clubs and/or country clubs?

These are the more likely outlets for New Zealand producers.”

Currently 60% of the Hong Kong importers are also doing business in China – “but that doesn’t mean they are successful,” she said.

“Be aware of your Hong Kong importer. Are they Mandarin speaking? Are they fully accepted in China? And at the same time be careful who you go with. Don’t sign any exclusivity agreements.

Leave yourself flexible, because we still don’t know how the market is going to pan out. With 250 active importers in Hong Kong, there is going to be a lot of consolidation soon.”

In Meiburg’s Book on the Hong Kong Wine Trade, she lists the 250 importers, with contact details. The book is available from her website – www.debramasterofwine.com tessa.nicholson@me.com ■

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RETIRING PROFILE

AN EVOLUTIONARY CAREER MARY SHANAHAN

D

uring his 30 years with Corbans, former company head Noel Scanlan recalls doing “just about every job imaginable” as the business moved from family ownership to corporate giant.

22

“My MBA,” he says, “was working my way through the company.”

It’s a career path that, in some measure, reflects the evolution of New Zealand’s wine scene into an increasingly complex exportfocused industry.

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

Scanlan’s introduction to the wine industry was in the early 1970s, working front-of-house in his parents’ licensed restaurant in Mt Roskill.

“It was more a grog shop than a restaurant when my parents bought the place. I remember getting calls for orders like 40 dozen DB. Over a period it changed to a fully licensed sevenday-a-week restaurant.”

When the thriving business sold, he quizzed a Corbans’ caller-rep about jobs going at the company.

“He asked me what I wanted to do. I said I didn’t care so long as it was physical work – I’d had six and a half years enjoying good food and hospitality!”

Scanlan started as a packer/storeman at AA Corban and Sons in Hobson Street, a wine and spirits retailer selling predominantly Corbans’ wines. Upstairs, Corban Wines Ltd operated as a separate company.

Working behind the counter was an insight into the regu-

lations governing the sale of alcohol at that time. Customers had to buy a minimum two gallons to qualify for wholesale rates.

“Then they could buy a bottle of scotch or whatever. But we had to take their names and addresses. Wholesalers basically had a monopoly over the market.”

Scanlan’s sales role widened to encompass private trade customers – “mainly sports clubs, but we also used to service the merchant ships that came into port” – and he subsequently became a fully fledged rep, covering the Bay of Plenty, the King Country and other parts south of the Auckland harbour bridge as Corbans developed its distribution network and the focus on selling grew.

“I knew the front and back end of the company and later, when marketing export wines, I went back to those grass roots of selling.

It was still about opening doors and building trust.”

In 1972, Rothmans (later Magnum Corporation) bought a 25 percent ownership in Corbans and subsequently staged a complete takeover. From retail shop manager, responsible for five outlets, Scanlan went on to run distribution.

“It was an area that had become huge and needed some attention.

For two years, I rehashed warehouse distribution logistics and then became national sales manager.”

Scanlan was then seconded to the position of national merchandising manager for Rothmans followed by the position as Corbans’ national marketing manager – “exciting times”, he recalls.

“Magnum was an interesting company in that it groomed people for better positions. I was invited to join a group of eight or nine senior managers travelling the world for three and a half weeks visiting major businesses such as Budweiser and Ralphs LA, and Canada and Sweden to learn about the liquor sales controls that applied in those countries.

“I hadn’t done much overseas travel before and it opened my eyes to how sophisticated some of these operators were. From a marketing standpoint, we were not that smart. The company became very innovative with lots of new products, but we were not always the first with them. Montana was our biggest competitor in those days and we had to be one step ahead, with wine coolers, for example - products that the market hadn’t seen before.”

Scanlan says it was cask wine that changed people’s drinking habits.

“They were comfortable with moving from sherry to cask wine, which was affordable and sweet

to semi-sweet. From there they graduated to better table wines.”

Magnum’s takeover upended Corbans’ structure and Scanlan was appointed general manager after the resignation of the previous general manager.

plan, DB sought changes. These included the suggestion to sell 50 percent of the business. Unable to work with what was proposed, Scanlan eased himself out of the company and then found himself in a protracted battle with pneu-

Scanlan’s introduction to the wine industry was in the early 1970s, working front-of-house in his parents’ licensed restaurant in Mt Roskill.

Scanlan feels proud of the job he did in refocusing the company, guiding it through decentralisation and a rebuilding of brands and quality standards. Up until then, he says, Corbans had been very reliant on growers. The company added to its Marlborough holdings and bought land in Hawke’s Bay. Building on brands that included Corbans, Stoneleigh, Robard & Butler, Cooks and Longridge, Corban Wines expanded to claim a 38 percent market share, making it New Zealand’s second largest wine producer until Montana purchased the business from the DB Group, owned by Heineken Breweries.

Some eight months after Heinekin bought into the company and had ratified a 14-year

monia – “it was my body telling me to slow down.”

Once he had regained his health, he set up a consultancy advising companies that included Giesen Wines, Kahurangi Estate, Sacred Hill and Ager Sectus Wine Estates Ltd, which bought out Crossroads winery west of Napier.

When Peter Cutfield, the owner of Ager Sectus, offered Scanlan a job as the company’s chief operating officer, he relocated from Auckland, his home city, to Hawkes Bay. The 2003 move was also a lifestyle decision. However, Ager Sectus – like other New Zealand wine companies – was sailing into a perfect storm. As major economies faltered in the global downturn, exporting became more difficult

and contracting markets were awash with wine. The company needed to grow to meet the challenges but banks weren’t lending.

After looking at various options, the decision was made for Ager Sectus to merge with Yealands, making Scanlan’s position redundant, although he retains a shareholding in the enlarged company.

Scanlan continues to draw on his considerable industry experience with work he is doing for a friend with a wine business in Australia.

He plans to stay in Hawkes Bay, however, until his children have completed their secondary schooling and perhaps, if the demand is there, to re-establish his consultancy business.

“It will be three or four years before the industry goes back to something marginally profitable,” he says. “This year’s vintage will add to the difficulties. It’s a godsend in one respect, in that it is cutting out surplus production.

“The industry will survive but people have to realise it’s a business. It’s not just about producing a bottle of wine that will fetch $50 – it’s about getting the costs and scale right, ensuring they understand the economics.” westclan@clear.net.nz ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 23

BOB’S BLOG BOB CAMPBELL MW

THE CHAMPAGNE CURSE I recently tasted a blind line-up of sparklers featuring a mix of Champagne and New World fizz.

T

he champagnes were easy to pick and featured strongly in my selection of top wines. Is Champagne really superior or has the style become such a strong benchmark that any other style must automatically come sec-

Good Champagne has an ethereal quality that makes other sparkling wines appear clumsy and pedestrian by comparison. ond? I think the Champenoise have nailed it. Good Champagne has an ethereal quality that makes other sparkling wines appear clumsy and pedestrian by comparison. It’s like comparing the late Rudolph Nureyev to Rodney Hide.

French wine critic, Michel Bettane, told me that he once organised a tasting for his wine friends who were asked to bring a bottle of New World and a bottle of Old World wine made in the same style or from the same grape variety(ies). The wines were served blind in pairs.

Bettane said that it was hard to distinguish between the New World and Old World sample in every case – except Champagne versus Méthode.

24

The vintage Winemakers tend to (understandably) put such a positive spin on every vintage it can be challenging to sort fact from fiction. The ultimate test of a vintage is by tasting the wines a year or two later (Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay from 2011 looks a bit grim after initial assessment) but it is always necessary for me to make a call early, sometimes before all of the grape have been harvested.

I rate the New Zealand vintage in Oz Clarke’s Wine Guide and for the International Wine & Food Society’s annual vintage guide. I also keep my own record of vintage ratings by region and wine type although these are updated if subsequent tastings suggest a change is in order.

When assessing the vintage by region there’s nothing quite like being there. A walk through a few vineyards is worth more than lengthy chats with several winemakers. I even have my own refractometer to check grape sugars – very revealing in this sun-deprived season.

I visited Hawke’s Bay twice, Marlborough once and Central Otago once during vintage.

Although, as I said, winemakers tend to talk up the vintage in their region they are always ready to dish the dirt on other regions. Several Marlborough winemakers told me that the vintage was “a disaster” in Hawke’s Bay. Hawke’s Bay winemakers mostly conceded that a shortage of sun and surplus of rain had made things tough but they were

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

pleasantly surprised (would “relieved” have been a better term) at the final outcome.

Everyone acknowledged that a burst of warm, dry weather from Easter was a great help.

Three days in court

for visitors. Omaka is a naturally beautiful valley made even I agreed to support a claim by a group of Omaka Valley winemak- more beautiful by the addition of grapevines and olive trees. ers against an increase in the That natural and cultural beauty quarrying licence of an operator needs to be preserved. at the head of the valley. The winemakers were justifiably concerned about the impact of Darwin’s theory of wine increased truck traffic through courses the valley.

21,885 people have attended my It was interesting to hear the various wine courses over the evidence of geologists, traffic past 26 years. Apart from my experts, town planners, resiwebsite (first launched nearly 20 dents and a cycle club organiser years ago) I don’t advertise them. and even more interesting to People who particularly enjoy the witness their interrogation by courses enthuse about the expelawyers from both sides. rience to people in a similar age When my turn came I tried to group, socio-economic category explain that while my impresand with personalities like their sion of a premium wine brand is own resulting in a sort of Darwinto a large extent formed by the ian selection process. Some years quality of the wines reviewed ago the NZ Herald ran a feature at my tasting table it is also on my wine course and the influenced by a visit to the people who booked in to the next winery and vineyards. A visit to a hillside Pinot Noir vineyard in the Omaka Valley, for example, would leave me with a more favourable impression if it didn’t have a fully laden truck and trailer thundering past every few minutes.

It made me think about the importance of place, not just for its ability to produce high quality wine, but for its ability to createlayout_global_P a positive impression 2029-08 9/23/08 9:32 AM Page 1

few sessions were a much more diverse group than usual.

After a while the selection process kicked in and they settled back into a familiar pattern.

Word of mouth endorsement means I tend to get a string of students from Telecom, the Inland Revenue or large accounting and legal firms. I once recall a series of ten con-

C

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CM

MY

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secutive courses that all had at least one person from The Drive in Epsom.

One unexplained phenomenon is why are Wellington students more urbane than Auckland students? Am I tapping into different socio-economic groups or does my impression truly reflect a fundamental difference in people from both cities? ■

K

Composite NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 25

MARKETING NEWS

PROWEIN 2012 NZW European Marketing Team

P

roWein is considered by many to be one of the most important international wine fairs and this year it attracted over 40,000 visitors from right across Europe, and even as far afield as Russia and China. New Zealand Winegrowers created a fresh new look for our stand, with 29 wineries exhibiting with us, although there was demand from many others. Sadly we were restricted with space this year. Around the fair it was great to see many other New Zealand wineries either taking space with their distributors or on their own.

Our friends and colleagues at NZTE kindly assisted us by hiring four London based Ngati Ranana performers to provide Maori cultural performances, which brought a loud dose of Kiwi culture to the event. NZTE also funded an important Cool Climate Wines From New Zealand seminar and tasting, led by respected German journalist, Richard Grosche, who presented (in German) a range of New Zealand wines on the stand of

the leading German publishing house, Meininger Verlag.

Once again we were involved with the Flavours masterclass and tastings theatre in collaboration with four other New World regions, (Argentina, Chile, California and South Africa).

Three leading sommeliers/wine personalities; Andreas Larsson MS (Sweden), Caro Maurer MW (Germany) and Ronana Sayburn MS (UK) conducted tutored masterclass sessions each day which showcased the versatility of New World wines when matched with food. All these sessions were sellouts and attracted an excellent cross section of international trade and media. Each participating New World region had a slot for their own country and Brent Marris presented a sellout Road Trip around New Zea-

a winning influence suppliers of fine corks, barrels, screw caps & capsules

land Pinot Noir.

The importance of ProWein is clearly demonstrated by the fact that it has reached its current limits and so from next year, the layout will change and two new halls will be added. The New World countries will be given

greater emphasis with their own hall by a new entrance to the fairground. This means we will be able to accommodate many more wineries than before, so please let us know if you would be interested in being involved next year. The dates are March 24 – 26 2013. ■

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// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

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ITALIAN PROFILE

THE WINES OF ITALY JOELLE THOMSON

Innovation is alive and thriving in Italy’s wineries, as the world’s largest wine trade fair, the 46th Vinitaly, revealed this March

S

tanding in a 500 year old piazza next to a platter of what looked like dark Tuscan salami, I bit into a morsel of the most velvety, gamey meat of my life. It reminded me of the first great Barolo I ever drank; layers of savoury flavour with an intensity that was hard to pinpoint. Several heavenly meaty morsels and a Champagne-like ‘Franciacorta’ (Italian bubbly) later, I landed back down on earth with a thud on reading the label: Luganica Passita ‘Carne Equina E Suina’. It was horsemeat.

Glad I didn’t realise that earlier or I might have missed out.

The same is true of so much in Italy. It’s easy to dismiss the weird and wonderful wines this innovative but inward look-

ing wine producing nation – the world’s largest – produces. Many are made from grapes we haven’t heard of; housed in bizarre shaped bottles and unfortunately most of the country’s wines – like its citizens – prefer to stay at home rather than travel abroad. The reason for my trip was Vinitaly; the largest wine trade fair on Earth.

And it feels it. After a day of tasting and walking around the first three of the eight or so stadiums of wineries from the tip to toe of the Italian boot, my own boots did not want to part with my feet. This year 140,000 visitors from over 45 countries attended, including over 2,500 journalists from radio and TV, newspapers and online publications.

The four day event is now in its

46th year. It’s held in Verona; a city with a population of just 265,000, so Vinitaly tests its resources just a tad.

Italian wines range from full bodied, inky black ‘reds’ such as Negroamaro (‘dark bitter’) from Puglia to aromatic northern reds like Tomazzi Valpolicella Passito; an excellent gateway into Italian dried-grape wines; ‘passito’ but there are worlds in between and around – Barolo, Aglianico, Nerello Mascalese, Catarrato and Lambrusco don’t even touch the sides of the variation in Italy’s wines. One of the most unusual I tried was Moscato di Scanso from Bergamo in Lombardy, made from red Moscato grapes; some air dried prior to fermentation. Wines like these are made from grapes with

an extremely long history of ageability and viticulture while others are surprisingly new. Amarone came about in the first half of last century when winemakers noticed the Corvina grape was greater than its traditional blending partners.

Amarone means ‘bitter strong one’, says Annalisa Armani from Tomassi in Valpolicella. As stimulating as it is to taste the history, the modern innovation inspires just as much, as these wines show.

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La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica Italy’s answer to French Chenin Blanc and German Riesling, in the crisply acidic white grape, Verdicchio, which ages amazing well. It’s from the Marche region; home to two quality zones; Matelica and Castello di Jesi. The wines of Matelica shine brightest as winery owner and passionate wine lover, Aldo Cifola shows in his La Monacesca Verdicchios.

Could New Zealand grow Verdicchio well? Why not? We have altitude, Hawke’s Bay’s relative warmth and the willingness to experiment.

Moscato di Scanzo

Tomassi grapes drying.

28

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

PHOTOS: JOELLE THOMSON

Given the biggest stamp of Italian wine approval – a DOCG (Denominazione di Controllato Garantita) - in 2002, this tiny wine zone in Bergamo can trace the history of Moscato di Scanzo back to 1000 B.C. The wine is named

For trade visitors only

after the town of Scanzorosicate, where just 22 winemakers share 32 hectares of Moscato between them. Small though the production is, the intensity of taste more than makes up for its tiny size and image. Many of the grapes are air dried until they lose 70% of their volume. A top grape for New Zealand to try.

Mascarello Monprivato Barolo Top of the Italian tree, both literally and figuratively – and taste-wise too. This northern wine is from Piemonte; home to the Nebbiolo grape; this is one of the best Barolos today, thanks to the Mascarello family’s excellent hillside Monprivato vineyard and to traditional winemaking methods.

More next issue

Vigneti Massa Timorasso From the tiny DOC of Colli Tortonese comes the original ‘Gavi’ grape; Timorasso. It was nearly extinct in the mid 1980s when plantings dropped to about 1.5 hectares. Since then winemaker Walter Massa has been at the forefront of reviving it.

“Wait till you taste an aged version; it tastes just like old Alsacien white wine,” said Master of Wine and Italian wine UK importer,

Michael Palij. A 14 year old Timorasso from Massa proved him right.

Incredible grape and wine; little is known about it but this is one of Italy’s great whites.

Cesari Corvina The noblest of grapes in Valpolicella’s famous Amarone trio, Corvina is the queen and she makes a full bodied, high tannin, wild berry and savoury red.

Quality minded Ve n e t i a n w i n emakers favour Corvina first, then Corvinoni ( n o t r e l a te d , a grape which nearly died out) and Rondinella.

Some, such as Cesari, are experimenting with single varietals like this, in which French oak plays a part, says third generation wine family member Deborah Cesari.

This wine straddles old and new.

Masottina Le Rive di Ogliano King of Prosecco’s new single vineyard bubbles which are named ‘rive’ and from tiny designated hillside plots where the climate favours higher quality viticulture more than the mass produced Proseccos made on flatland outside the newly created DOCG (official from August 2009).

This has white floral aromas, a lemon fresh taste and long finish. The grape is now referred to as Glera. jthomson@xtra.co.nz ■ Joelle Thomson flew to Italy with Cathay Pacific.

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SUB REGIONS

MARLBOROUGH’S THREE VALLEYS Brought to you by Biostart TESSA NICHOLSON

W

hile grapes have been a tiny segment of the Marlborough landscape for well over a hundred years, it has only been

30

since 1973 that the region has forged a reputation as a worldrenowned producer. In less than 40 years, Marlborough has gone from being an unknown, to New

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

Zealand’s largest wine region, making up 75% of the country’s total wine production in 2011.

Variable soil types, a readily available underground water supply, relatively dry arid weather conditions and high sunshine hours, characterise the region.

Marlborough may not reach the extensive highs or lows of some other grape growing regions, (such as Central Otago) but it is renowned for its diurnal temperature variation. During the growing period it is common for daytime temperatures to reach mid 20s on a regular basis, with the diurnal shift being an average 11 degs.

This allows the grapes to build the brix levels during the day, with the high level of fruit acids being retained during the cooler nights.

Long dry autumns also play a major role in the ensuing wines. Without the pressure of rain the fruit can generally stay on the vines longer, allowing flavours to ripen without sacrificing the acidity that delineates Marlborough wines. Those long fine autumn days also help prevent disease threat.

(In most years anyway. There are always exceptions to the rule unfortunately.)

When you fly in to Marlborough, it becomes obvious how much the braided river ways impact on the province. They are what have created the soil types, throughout the region, over many thousands of years. As recently as 200 years ago, the plains were covered with many small tributaries of the Wairau River, resulting in deposits of alluvium and stone.

Once those rivers began being stop banked and channelled, large tracts of flat land became suitable for farming, horticulture and later viticulture. Much of that land was covered with the remnants of the quantities of macerated rock, brought down from the hills centuries before via the river system. Marlborough is also heavily influenced by its fault lines with the Wairau, Awatere and Clarence faults being an extension of the Alpine Fault.

All have played a role in Marlborough’s geological formation.

The first of Marlborough’s modern vineyards was planted in 1973 in what is referred to as the Southern Valleys. The now famous Brancott Estate, Montana’s first vineyard, sits smack bang in the middle of this area.

It wasn’t long before people began looking at other parts of

Marlborough that may well be suitable for vines. The Wairau Valley, a large tract of relatively flat land that borders the Wairau River and Wairau Fault line, was the second sub region to develop, in the late 70s. Covering a total area of just 20,000 hectares, this pocket of land is now covered in vines.

In 1985 the first vineyard was planted in the Awatere Valley, south of Blenheim, and separated

from the Wairau by the distinctive Wither Hills. It took many years for the Awatere to take off, in terms of vines, but in the past 10 years, it has grown exponentially.

To the point that the vineyard area of the Awatere Valley on its own, is now larger than Hawkes Bay. Wine Marlborough, the representative body of the growers and winemakers of the region, has deemed these three valleys

as the sub regions within the greater Marlborough area. But as is becoming more apparent as the years move forward, there are some very distinctive sub regions, within each of these valleys.

Southern Valleys Home of the original vineyards, The Southern Valleys lie to the south of the Wairau Valley. This is an area within Marlborough that

has not been as heavily affected by the river system over the millennia. It is slightly more rolling than the Wairau Plains and the soil variation is quite different. Created by a glacial outwash, it has significant amounts of silt and gravel, but also exhibits higher levels of clay than the other sub regions. Temperature wise, it is deemed cooler than the Wairau, and being closer to the hills, it is more prone to the cool

Upper Wairau Valley.

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 31

air draining off them and settling for longer in the valley folds.

It is a drier sub region than the Wairau Valley in terms of rainfall, despite it being only a matter of a few kilometres to the south. The area has also suffered from a lack of water during its developmental stage, given it’s distance from the two major river ways, Wairau and Waihopai.

During the last big drought in the late 90s, people were having to hand water vines, with water delivered by tankers. Since then the Southern Valleys Irrigation Scheme has been in commission, ensuring there is a reasonable amount of water available when necessary.

The major varieties planted in The Southern Valleys are; Pinot Noir, (more and more on the gently sloping hills of the valley) Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

Because the sub region is slightly cooler than the Wairau Valley, there is a greater risk of frost, although hundreds of frost fans are helping to mitigate this

threat. The season is also behind that of the Wairau Valley, in terms of harvest.

The white wines from this valley tend more towards the citrus/

The white wines from Southern Valleys tend more towards the citrus/grapefruit flavours, with a degree of minerality from the clay. Pinot Noir tends to display rich aromas of red fruit. grapefruit flavours, with a degree of minerality from the clay. Pinot Noir tends to display rich aromas of red fruit.

Within the Southern Valleys; the known sub regions are; Brancott, Fairhall, Omaka, Taylor Pass and Ben Morven and Waihopai Valley.

Wairau Valley As mentioned earlier this tract of land covers just 20,000 hectares, with a significant portion of that given over to viticulture.

Awatere Valley.

PHOTO: NZW

32

It is difficult to describe the soil types of this sub region, given in one small vineyard there can be more than a dozen different profiles. They can range from stony,

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

gravel, alluvial former riverbed, to silt, loam and clay. What’s more the soils can range from being highly fertile, to extremely poor.

Stones abound in parts of the valley, deposited by the braided rivers over the years. (Stoneleigh Wines took their name from the never ending array of stones within the original Corban’s vineyard.)

The closer to the hills of the North, the more rainfall this area experiences. It can be substantially more than the Southern Valleys and even more again than

the Awatere. This along with the fact that the vineyards in this sub region sit above a massive aquifer, fed by the Wairau River, means there are not as many water issues facing growers in this sub region as there are in others. While the more fertile loam soils mean irrigation is often not necessary, it is almost mandatory on vineyards with stony conditions.

Temperature wise the Wairau Valley tends to be warmer than either the Southern or Awatere Valleys. It is generally the first of the sub regions to be harvested.

The major variety is understandably Sauvignon Blanc, with the Pinot Noir predominantly for sparkling with some table wine the second most planted, then Chardonnay.

More recently there has been a move towards other aromatic wines, such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer. The wines from the Wairau Valley are described as being very fruit forward, with stone and tropical fruit flavours, particularly passion fruit

and grapefruit characteristics in the Sauvignon Blanc.

Sub regions within the Wairau Valley are numerous. They include, Rapaura, Renwick, Rarangi, Conders Bend, Kaituna , Grovetown, Dillons Point and now the more extensively planted Upper Wairau, which is to the west of Blenheim, and follows the line of the Wairau River itself.

The Awatere Valley Situated to the south of Blenheim, with the Wither Hills dividing it from the Wairau and Southern Valleys, the Awatere is the most recent of Marlborough’s sub regions to emerge. As mentioned the first vines were only planted back in 1985 by Vavasour Wines.

There were many in the Wairau

The wines from the Wairau Valley are described as being very fruit forward Valley that believed the Awatere would never be a major player in the Marlborough wine arsenal. How wrong they have been proven. The Awatere is a not only a major player in terms of plantings, but also in fruit profiles.

Wines from this sub region tend to be crisper, less tropical fruit (in terms of Sauvignon Blanc) and are often described as herbaceous, capsicum/bell pepper, minerally and flinty.

Towering over the Awatere Valley is Mount Tapuae-o-Uenuke, New Zealand’s highest peak, (outside of the Southern Alps.) Often tipped with snow, it is a clear indi-

cation of the potential for cool weather that assails this valley. It is renowned as being cooler, windier and drier than either of the other valleys, which means bud burst through to harvest is the latest of all three valleys.

The soil profile is also very different, being a mixture of alluvial gravel and wind borne loess, often with a diverse composition of stone materials.

With the majority of plantings being closer to the sea (than other valleys) the diurnal temperature is also less.

There are no large aquifers in the Awatere and all irrigation

water has to come from the Awatere River, or storage dams. Given the strong winds the area is subjected to, irrigation is a necessity, not a luxury. The private Blind River Irrigation scheme, opened up large tracts of land and many growers have now built their own storage dams to cater for the ever likely potential drought.

But the lack of water also means crops are lighter and flavours tend to be more intense, helped by the long hanging time due to the later ripening.

Within the Awatere Valley there are many individual sub regions; Blind River, Seaview, Dashwood and Redwood Pass.

There are also areas emerging south of the Awatere in the Ure Valley and Kekerungu, which are beginning to show real promise. ■

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SOMMELIERS CORNER CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

SYRAH By the time this article appears in print it’s likely that the last of your 2012 fruit is in tank, and the rigours of winter weather have arrived in earnest.

I

t’s starting to feel like the right time to open a bottle or two of your current (or older) release Syrah and consider its structure, key flavours and nuances. We Somms are also feeling the chilly weather, and will be heading to our wine rooms and cellars to evaluate our winter menus and their compatibility with this mighty variety.

Without doubt New Zealand Syrah is fast-tracking its way to stardom – and not just locally.

Such is the terroir, talent and tenacity of our wine makers that New Zealand Syrah now stands alongside many of the world’s benchmarks (Northern and Southern Rhone in particular) as both a comparative example and a creditable alternative on wine lists.

Many restaurants enjoy keeping some jammy, powerful examples of Australian Shiraz well positioned on their lists, and I am frequently told by my clients (and brother and sister Sommeliers) that they have clients who will order nothing else. The power of these wines is legendary – yet our own Syrah is making an equally important, and no less impressive statement, from a different approach.

I am enjoying New Zealand Syrahs with provenances ranging from Northland to Marlborough

34

– and am growing increasingly excited by some Matakana examples, as well as the (by now almost benchmark) Hawkes Bay offerings. I am keen to grace any wine list I have input into with local examples – the choice, of course, dependent on the style and requirements of the establishment.

age, your Syrah can handle is up to the individual wine making team (the oak programme signature will sometimes mean the difference between the suitability of an example for a retail purchase or a winelist selection).

A Sommelier similarly appreciates its significance – because of the impact it has on wine/

The generous and often juicy black fruit flavours and textures blend well against the foods with similar juicy attributes. Fish and Syrah is a difficult pairing – two types that can work well are rich, full flavoured Salmon fillet with a dense layer of olive tapenade; or a Provençal style fish soup or stew with saffron and tomatoes.

Black cherry, black plum, blackberry and wild raspberry are appropriate fruit descriptors for many New Zealand examples. Hints of violets, white pepper, tea, mushroom, olive, sausage, bacon and even a little truffle can be found in some.

Oak aromas and flavours add suggestions of clove, chocolate, smoke and char, and these are perhaps the initial influences most Sommeliers look to when considering Syrah with food.

How much oak, and of what

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

food relationships. Oak and fruit tannins need to be taken into account for food matching as they both have a big influence on the palate.

Grilled, stewed and especially smoked meats are fabulous with those Syrahs that have a noticeable oak impact. The peppery side of Syrah can either be calmed with less capsaicin spices or promoted with an extra grind of black pepper.

Let’s be frank - the alcohol levels in Syrah are often high

– it’s part of the package; so be careful about those delicate dishes with subtle nuances – they simply won’t work very often with a ‘big statement’ example. Syrah likes to be married with earthy flavours like beans and lentils, or sweet red vegetables like beetroot. Higher alcohol can bring a sense of sweetness to a wine, so caramelised food like onions and even charred meat work well with Syrah’s ample ethanol.

Pork belly, wild boar and roasted venison are seasonal offerings on New Zealand menus, and these dishes are particularly good with Syrah – the generous and often juicy black fruit flavours and textures blend well against the foods with similar juicy attributes. Fish and Syrah is a difficult pairing – two types that can work well are rich, full flavoured Salmon fillet with a dense layer of olive tapenade; or a Provençal style fish soup or stew with saffron and tomatoes.

And let’s not forget our evening that finishes by a roaring fire, listening to the wind and rain howling outside the windows, toasting our toes and reaching for the rustic cheeseboard.

The Syrah that wasn’t finished over our main course is being swirled in its big glass, sniffed and sipped. Perfect. ■

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NEW POLICY

REGISTERING VINEYARDS T

he Strategic Review highlighted the need for accurate vineyard statistics to improve information on grape supply capability and to help address bio-security issues. In part at least this recommendation also reflected member criticisms that NZW vineyard data was not as accurate as it should have been leading up to vintage 2008.

The Board agrees that accurate vineyard data is a vitally important and fundamental information resource for the industry and has agreed to a new registration Policy.

The new Policy states: All vineyards (grower or winery owned)

contributing grapes to wines participating in New Zealand Winegrowers events and activities must be registered on the New Zealand Winegrowers vineyard register before July 1 of the year of vintage.

This Policy will apply from vintage 2012 onwards. The effect will be that the 2012 wines to participate in any New Zealand Winegrowers organised event after July 1 2012, (e.g. Bragato Wines Awards), the NZW seminar programme, user pays events etc, all vineyards that have contributed grapes into production of that wine will need to be up to date on the vineyard register. To

further enforce this, completion ance notes will be sent directly to of the vineyard register will be a all vineyards and wineries. requirement for SWNZ accreditaIf you have any questions relattion in the 2012/13 season. ing to the Policy, please contact As a reflection of the additional Philip Manson, Science and Innovineyard registration requirement vations Manager at; pmanson@ for participation in events, the nzwine.com, or phone 09 306 Sustainable Wine Registration 5559. ■ Site, has been re-named the Wine Registration Site; www. nzwineregistration.com Further information including login All vineyards will need to be registered to take part details and guid- in NZW organised events after July 1.

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 37

REGIONS WAITAKI

PICKING FOR CHARITY TESSA NICHOLSON

B

raving the cool temperatures of a Waitaki autumn, up to 28 volunteers a day helped harvest the grapes for Ostler Vineyards this year, in an effort to raise funds for the New Zealand Spinal Trust.

It is the fourth year this innovative fundraiser has taken place in the Waitaki, with many of the Ostler volunteers having been involved every vintage.

Drawing fruit from three vine-

yards, to produce seven vineyard specific wines, all grapes are hand picked, with no mechanical harvesters in sight.

Ostler CEO Jim Jerram says given the isolation of the area and the lateness of the vintage, when it is time to harvest, it has to be done pretty quickly. That requires a rapid mobilising of a labour force, which cannot easily be conjured up in a remote region with a low population.

“Initially we had a lot of family and friends help us out, but as the business grew we knew we couldn’t rely on asking those people to help out for nothing, despite many of them wanting to do just that.”

Which is when Jerram’s wife Anne came up with the idea of using the vintage to raise funds for a good cause. Given Anne works at the Burwood Academy of Independent Living, she suggested

maybe they could do something to help the New Zealand Spinal Trust, set up in the 90s by the late Professor Alan Clarke, (the Patron is Sir Tim Wallis). So if friends and family wanted to help with the hand picking, Ostler Vineyard’s would donate the equivalent wages to the Trust. In total that has meant almost $16,000 0 has been raised and passed on, since the project began back in 2009.

“We have our own paid crew

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and basically we work out a per tonne picking price, we take off our fixed costs for paid labour, and pay the rest to the Spinal Trust as a donation. Last year that donation was nearly $7000.”

The large group of helpers don’t necessarily come from the Waitaki region. Jerram says they come from all over New Zealand and some even travel from overseas to be a part of the vintage.

All are keen to help fundraise for the Spinal Trust, whose mission statement is “to empower people with spinal cord impairments, to lead independent, confident and productive lives, right now.” The money raised by Ostler helps the Trust fund its Connecting People Programme. Jerram says Anne’s involvement with Burwood and the fact that a well-known

Volunteer Hans Wouters of the New businessman in Zealand Spinal Trust assists with the Waitaki has the Ostler Harvest at Blue House tetraplegia from Vineyard in the Waitaki Valley. a broken neck in a cross-country motor cycle accident, makes the fundraising quite personal.

“As a model this works extremely well for everybody.

We have happy pickers and it is a cheerful occasion with loads of donated food and terrific wines.

Jerram is keen to see other It is remarkable that so many vineyards throughout the country people want to come and donate follow their example, something their time to something so worth- that the CEO of the NZ Spinal while, as well as helping us out of Trust is keen on as well. Ben Lucas a pickle.” says the funds raised by Ostler

are vital, in helping develop programmes within the Trust.

“It gives us backing ability to ensure we give our clients more support.” tessa.nicholson@me.com ■

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 39

REGIONS WAIPARA

SUMMER OF RIESLING JO BURZYNSKA

A

s autumn takes hold, New Zealand is taking stock of its first Summer of Riesling, which gave the profile of this great but underrated grape a welcome local boost, as well as driving its sales for participating wineries, bars and restaurants across the country.

It’s the brainchild of New York restaurateur, Paul Grieco, who took the radical step of mak-

ing Riesling the only white wine served by the glass at his wine bar one summer. “Like many sommeliers, I want more folks to enjoy more Riesling more often,” Grieco divulged. “So four years ago, at my bar, Terroir, I decided to put my money where my mouth was and give my guests no choice: drink Riesling… or leave.”

Rather than bankrupting his business, the gamble not only paid

off, but the Summer of Riesling concept spread across the States, with hundreds of US restaurants and bars currently on board. It’s now an international phenomenon and was brought to New Zealand this year by Waipara Valley Ambassador, Angela Clifford and Mount Edward’s Duncan Forsyth, with Grieco himself taking part in a number of events.

“We’ve held the In Praise of

Riesling event in Waipara before and this feels like a natural progression,” explained Clifford.

“Rather than just talking about it amongst ourselves, the idea is to get wine bars, restaurants and fine wine retailers on board to engage with consumers and pour them some mighty fine New Zealand Riesling.”

“For us, it’s not about us or our wines,” added Forsyth, “but about

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trying to get people – whoever they are and whatever Riesling they choose – to give Riesling a go and rediscover that it is one of the best freaking wines out there!”

Between mid-January and March, close to 50 establishments and over 40 New Zealand Riesling producers were involved in the seasonal celebration. Events included Riesling parties, such as the “Climax” evening held in the Waipara Valley at Pegasus Bay, which included burlesque dancers, wine tastings, dinner and a wine sound installation.

There were also Riesling boat races, a Summer of Riesling gig by Flip Grater, Riesling dinners, tastings and even a “Ribs, Riesling & Rubble” event held on the empty site where one of Christchurch’s favourite restaurants used to

stand before the earthquake.

These initiatives translated to a noticeable lift in Riesling sales over the period for many of the establishments involved. “We’ve sold over 50% more Riesling to trade than in the same period last year, and 40% more through our cellar door,” noted Anna Flowerday of Te Whare Ra Wines. “It’s a great initiative and we can’t wait for next summer.”

More sales success was reported by Black Estate, which sold almost a third more Riesling than in the same period the previous year.

“We’re delighted with the whole concept behind the Summer of Riesling and through our Glengarry and Dida’s stores we witnessed a steady rush of new converts over the season,” said

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REGIONS CANTERBURY

FIRSTS FOR NEW CANTERBURY WINE COMPETITION

W

ith the launch of the C a n te r b u r y W i n e Awards in April, the region not only established its first ever wine show, but New Zealand gained its only local competition that makes its entrants’ compatibility with food part of the judging criteria.

Established by Wines of Canterbury, the inaugural event attracted 88 entries from across the geographical area covered by the organisation, which runs from the catchment area of the Waitaki River in the south to that of the Clarence River in the north.

“Entries came in from as far south as Kurow, and north from Spotswood near the Waiau River,” commented Dr Glen Creasy, lecturer at Lincoln University and member of the Wines of Canterbury Executive. “As well as demonstrating the wide range of

terroir Canterbury has to offer, it also emphasises the need for a vehicle to highlight the wines being made here.”

“We had a fantastic response from the wineries,” added Wines of Canterbury representative, Gill Walsh. “We never expected so many entries in our first year, which surpassed expectation.”

Wines were judged in classes based on food categories, such as cheese, lamb and salmon, with their suitability as a match with dishes within these groups one of the key considerations in their assessment.

“As wines are typically consumed with food it makes sense to evaluate them in this manner,” explained Walsh. “It’s also a point of difference from other wine shows.”

Judging the wines was a panel which drew on both wine and food

expertise. This comprised New Zealand Herald wine columnist, Jo Burzynska; oenologist at Hill Laboratories Wine Lab, Kirsten Creasy and ASB Showground’s executive chef, Simon Sheehan.

The presentation of the awards and the announcement of the

overall trophy winner took place at the David Jackson Dinner at Tiffany’s Restaurant in Christchurch on 24th May, with the medal winning wines offered at a trade tasting for restaurants and wine buyers held at Christchurch’s Addington Raceway. ■

AND THE WINNERS ARE...

Forty-three medals were awarded across the seven categories, which accounted for 50% of the wines entered. Trophies were awarded in these categories to the following wines: • 2012 Overall Trophy - Greystone Waipara Valley Gewurztraminer 2011 • Canapé Class - Waipara Hills Waipara Valley Riesling 2011 • Vegetarian Class - Greystone Waipara Valley Pinot Gris 2011 • Beef Class - Pasquale Hakataramea Pinot Noir 2010 • Salmon Class - Muddy Water Chardonnay 2009 • Lamb Class - Waipara Hills Equinox Waipara Valley Pinot Noir 2011 • Dessert Class - Waipara Hills Equinox Waipara Valley Late Harvest Riesling • Cheese Class - Greystone Waipara Valley Gewurztraminer 2011

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// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

MONEY MATTERS WITH NZFOREX MARCUS PHILLIPS

IS THE HIGH NZD HERE TO STAY?

M

any exporters I’m sure, recall the ‘good old days’, when the New Zealand Dollar was buying 50-odd US cents and USD-laden buyers were queuing up at the door to receive what they deemed a bargain price for high quality New Zealand wine.

It has been the case, however, that over recent years the Kiwi has embarked on a steady march higher, eroding the competitiveness of the country’s exporters. A well-remembered fall to 50 cents was seen post GFC, although as the world recovered so did the local exchange rate. For those waiting for another turn south, the

following paragraphs address the factors contributing to the New Zealand dollar’s current levels and whether or not they are temporary or here to stay.

Driving the appreciation of the Kiwi from 2009 lows of 50 cents to the Greenback, were several factors. Firstly, after taking a battering, investor appetite for riskier assets improved. Those who had sold out and bought up low-yielding, ‘safer assets’ slowly began to shift their holdings back into higher paying assets such as the Kiwi. Secondly the emergence of China as a major player in global growth began to shift a favourable focus on the Asia region as a whole.

Rapid expansion of the country relied heavily upon commodity consumption, driving commodity prices higher as well as increasing demand for the commodities New Zealand exported. Higher demand at higher prices was a winwin situation for the New Zealand economy.

However, the nature of foreign exchange markets rarely allow for the simplicity of a one-way path.

Down side pressure was soon to resurface as a rapidly worsening debt crisis in Greece hit the headlines and threatened to consume Europe as a whole. Displaying textbook investor behaviour, market participants once again shunned

risk and headed back to the Greenback and other safe haven assets in droves. As the crisis wears on, times of greater concern has seen the New Zealand dollar drop to levels 75 cents and below despite recently forming a resilient channel between 0.8100 and 0.8300.

So, as an exporter do you hold out and wait for the exchange rate to return from so-called ‘highs’ and return to ‘normal’ levels? Or is 80 cents the new normal? With China emerging as the next super power and commodity-rich Australia performing well, the flowon effect appears to be positive for the Kiwi. Further scope for gain also comes from a stalling

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US recovery, and the threat of further quantitative easing that would serve to further weaken the Greenback.

There are however key risks to the downside as well. European concerns seem set to be with us for some time and the New Zealand Dollar is characteristically susceptible in times of uncertainty. Risk that growth in China will slow, dampening the Asian region as a whole, or maybe more likely an improving economic recovery in the United States, also leaves the NZD/USD vulnerable. For the time being at least, it looks as though the Kiwi will remain supported by its geographical location, relatively high interest rates and commodity classification. The most likely scenario in coming months is a continuation

The ups and downs of the NZ dollar, versus the Greenback.

of the recent range a few cents either side of 80. Not necessarily the best news for exporters of non-

commodities, although volatility and downside pressures remain.

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most of dips in the Kiwi, reducing your average rate of exchange and improving your bottom line. ■

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INDUSTRY NEWS

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ew Zealand’s grapevine industry is dependent on continued access to new varieties to develop the sector and to provide a basis for innovation to remain globally competitive.

The Ministry for Primary Industries’ (MPI) is offering a cost-effective post-entry quarantine (PEQ) service through which new plant varieties can be imported. In line with the Ministry’s strategy to grow and protect New Zealand, the Plant Health and Environment Laboratory (PHEL) in Auckland, has extended its services to support the grapevine industry by providing a one-stopshop for quarantining and testing plants.

Importation of grapevine into the PHEL quarantine facility will cost approximately $10,000 for one plant of one variety and around $23,000 for one plant each

of ten varieties; this is based on a two-year quarantine period. Space within the PHEL PEQ facility for grapevine importations will be available from May 2012.

Grapevine germplasm may be imported into New Zealand as seed, tissue culture or cuttings.

Plant material in quarantine will undergo inspection and a suite of diagnostic tests to ensure freedom from damaging pests and diseases.

Some of these pests and diseases could cause significant damage to the industry if they were to establish.

The PHEL PEQ facility has been set up to provide quarantine services where there is no suitable private provision. The purpose of the service is to enable the growth of primary industries by enabling access to new germplasm. No profit is made and costs are recovered only for staff time, equipment and consumables. ■

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REGIONS NELSON

LIGHTER BOTTLES NEIL HODGSON

T

he emergence of lighter weight bottles is in direct response to the international trend to reduce environmental impact. What’s more it is one that is going to grow, as demand from retailers and consumers moves away from the heavy, standardised bottles of the past.

In Nelson, Richmond Plains have taken on the philosophy of

lighterweight bottles as they aim to lessen their environmental impact and enhance their organic and biodynamic philosophies.

Lars Jensen says the weight of the bottle doesn’t imapct on the taste of the wine, but it may help wine consumers feel better about chosing their brand.

Currently in New Zealand production of light weight bottles is being trialled with the lowest

about 410gms. Jensen has therefore chosen to use an imported bottle from Italy at 350gms. The issue of using imported bottles doesn’t concern him, given European countries have an excellent record of recycling, and if it helps promote lightweight glass in the market place then it has to be a good thing.

Richmond Plains haven’t had to make any changes in the bot-

Lars Jensen of Richmond Plains, with the finger light bottle.

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tling line to accommodate the lighter bottle, but because they are also slightly shorter, cartons have been redesigned. There are many benefits according to Jensen; they are lighter to handle when full, take less space so they can get more in a shipping container and there is a lighter weight being shipped.

They don’t appear any less fragile than heavier bottles, with Jensen saying “they smash just as easily as any other bottle if dropped.”

At this stage the only lightweight bottles available are clear Bordeaux style bottles with green Bordeaux bottles to be made available soon. Keith Griffith from Endeavour Glass Packaging says lightweight bottles may not be widely used in New Zealand at this point but they are a big thing worldwide. He says while there are a few issues like a shallow punt and limited bottle choices at the moment, consumer awareness of the impact products have on the environment means the change to lightweight bottles is going to

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be driven by consumer demand rather than by producers, unlike the move to using screwcap closures.

Griffith says very heavy bottles are a modern phenomenon, driven by wineries to differentiate their premium products. The theory being a heavy bottle gives the impression of quality and prestige; with some of the heaviest Bordeaux style bottles weighing as much as 1.2kg (the equivalent of 3.2 bottles being used by Richmond Plains). He says when you consider the impact on lift weights in the winery, shipping costs and manufacturing costs, lightweight bottles are the future.

While many Scandinavian countries are asking about lightweight bottles it is Canada that is leading the way with new regula-

tions coming into effect on the 1st January 2013 for Southern Hemisphere wines with a retail value of less than $15. The LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) require any 750ml bottles in this category to have a target bottle weight of 420gms.

The lightweight glass project has been undertaken by LCBO; “In order to reduce the collective carbon footprint of the products we purchase while also providing ergonomic benefits for our retail and logistics employees by reducing the overall weight of cases handled.”

While the LCBO has maintained some exceptions for small volume producers the message is very clear – the need for lighter weight bottles is here to stay. neil@hodgson.net.nzmessage ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 49

REGIONS GISBORNE

NEW LOOK WINE CENTRE MARG WILLIMOTT

T

he Gisborne Wine Centre is now an established destination for wine lovers and tourists travelling in the East Coast Region.

In the 18 months since it opened more than twenty thousand people have passed through it doors. Set in the Gisborne inner harbour- with a Mediterranean feel the centre show cases the

regions growing range of wines.

“The primary objective of the centre is to provide a central location to promote Gisborne as a quality wine region and a destination for wine lovers,” said Wine Centre Manager Marcus Allan It is a multipurpose area, with a wine shop and tasting area and an informative display on the Gisborne wine region - its soils,

climate and wine styles.

An overhead screen displays continuous snapshots of the vineyards and wineries. There is also an area to relax that opens into a sunny wine bar where you can sample the wines and match them with best the region has to offer in platters and pastries.

“We have over 120 Gisborne wines in the shop now with an

extensive range of varietals and wine styles.

We want everyone who comes to the region to have a positive wine experience,” said Allan.

“It’s not feasible or viable for all of the boutique wineries to have the cellar door open all year round.

“In most cases the winery owner is also the grower, the wine maker and the seller of their wine.

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We work closely with the key tourist channels to encourage people to visit the centre.”

The staff are trained to provide recommendations on the wines, book visits to the Gisborne boutique cellar doors or help with useful information on when the local wineries are open.

“We can arrange a programme to suit the individual,” he added.

For those that just want to relax and take in the scenery there is a guided wine tour service – these run daily, where people can talk directly with the wine maker enjoy a prearranged tasting or luncheon in some unique locations.

“Each week we showcase ten wines in two flights. For $12 you can try a range of the five wines that we select.

“You can watch the boats come

Gisborne Wine Centre.

and go or the sun setting across the water while sampling,” said Allan.

The centre also hosts fun educational evenings – including a winemaker series – a winemaker

presents his philosophy and approach to producing the wine and matching it with his menu choice.

“This year we may try some-

thing more causal for those looking for an entertaining evening and to learn about wine,” said Allan.

Marg.Willimott@gisborneherald. co.nz ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 51

REGIONS MARLBOROUGH

OLD NAME – NEW CELLAR DOOR TESSA NICHOLSON

T

wenty-seven years after making their first Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Giesens Wines now have a cellar door in the region. Opened last year, on Raupara Rd, the facility is gearing itself up to educate, rather than just provide tastings of company wines.

Roscoe Johanson, Brand and Hospitality Manager says the cel-

lar door is “unashamedly” about Sauvignon Blanc. Especially given this is the company’s flagship wine and has become the second most poured white wine in Australia.

“We want to create an area where people can learn about the variety and the many different styles that emanate from this one grape.”

The company winemakers

have even created wines that are not for sale, only for educational purposes. Assistant winemaker Anna Kingscote says they have taken two parcels of grapes from the same vineyard. Each treatment has been exactly the same, apart from the yeast.

“The fruit is de-stemmed into stainless steel tanks, fermented on skins, inoculated and aged on

lees in second year oak barrels for up to nine months. We have called the wines Tame and Wild, with the Tame using commercial yeast and the Wild using natural yeasts found on the fruit. So everything is the same, from the vineyard to the fermenting. The only difference is the yeast.”

The difference in palate and texture though cannot be dis-

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// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

Does your wine meet export standards?

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guised with the Wild delivering more complexity and roundness than its sister wine. Both of these wines are available only at the cellar door for tasting.

“These are trial wines, they are not driven by the market, but by an interest in Sauvignon Blanc,” Kingscote said. “It is great to be able to bottle something and see how it evolves while also letting other people that see as well.

These wines aren’t mistakes – they are evolutional trials.”

Cellar Door Manager Victoria Lewis said if people are really interested in seeing the evolution of Sauvignon Blanc, then they are able to show them. From the Giesen Estate, through to The Brothers, the trial wines and then the August, which is a barrel fermented wine made in memory of the Giesen brother’s Grandfather.

The August (pronounced Ooh goost) is again fermented on skins, with wild yeast and aged in a combination of French and German

oak. Giesen’s is the first New Zealand wine company to import the larger, shallower German Fuder barrels, which provide more lees to wine ratio surface, which in turn impacts on the flavour intensity of the wine.

But it is not just Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc the company is planning to educate consumers on. Plans are for an international tasting stand within the cellar door, Johanson said.

“We all know how unique Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is, but to be able to show it against a wine from Sancerre or the Loire, California or Australia will help consumers see it for themselves.”

Using enomatic machines, it means the cellar door can have any number of wines on hand for people to try, without the fear of them showing signs of spoilage.

“Basically we want to educate and the cellar door is a fantastic place to do that,” Johanson said. tessa.nicholson@me.com ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 53

INDUSTRY NEWS WORLD CLASS WINE • WORLD CLASS LOCATION • WORLD CLASS TRAINING

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// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

VINEVAX NOW EASIER TO USE V inevax pruning wound dressing is a biological fungicide that protects pruning wounds by colonising susceptible fresh wounds with an actively growing beneficial fungus.

This effectively closes the infection sites used by pathogenic wood-rotting fungi, preventing potential disease. Pruning wounds are the primary source of infection by fungal pathogens that cause trunk and cane dieback leading to significant production losses.

Field research has shown that Vinevax pruning wound dressing applied at the end of the day’s pruning is more effective than if applied immediately after pruning. The research has shown that the best incidence of bio-activity recovered and deepest penetration into wounds occurred from Vinevax applied at least 4 – 5 hours after cutting.

Biological wound treatments inhabit the wound with a beneficial organism, excluding the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria. An advantage of biologicals

is that their bio- protective barrier improves and extends with time, unlike chemical treatments which loose their activity over time.

Now the biologicals such as Vinevax have a further advantage.

In dry weather they can be applied conveniently by directed spraying at the end of the day’s pruning with the knowledge that application at this time will provide superior protection from disease.

• Vinevax is the only fully registered wound dressing for ‘vascular trunk disease’ with organic status.

• The new application timing will give managers greater flexibility in managing the timing of application around pruners.

• The green dye incorporated into Vinevax will enable easy identification of cut surfaces treated or missed.

• Its Organic registration means it fits within both sustainable viticulture and organic growing practices.

• Application of Vinevax by spraying is very quick compared to paint brush application and full coverage is better. ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 55

WINEMAKING NEWS

STRAW WINE TESSA NICHOLSON

I

s the creation of a straw wine in Marlborough innovative or traditional? It’s a bit of a conundrum how to describe the first release from newly formed wine company

Eureka, given the process isn’t new, in fact it’s hundreds of years old. Yet the production is one that has rarely been seen in this part of the wine making world.

Eureka owners Stephen Rae and Hugh Girling are not the first New Zealanders to utilise the traditional straw

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wine method, but they could well be the only ones currently using it.

The wine’s name relates to the way the fruit is treated. Bunches of Sauvignon Blanc were carefully hand picked at 21 brix, and placed into bins in single layers.

Each bunch had to be as pristine as possible, to ensure no berries harboured botrytis potential.

After hand picking the

bunches were then laid out on beds of straw, inside a glass house to provide a stable environment and left to dry for five weeks. The straw, which is anti microbial, provides a moisture absorbing surface, while also allowing air circulation around the bunches.

“Basically in that five weeks the

grapes begin to resemble sultanas, although they retain their original colour,” winemaker Girling said.

“We picked at between 21 and 23 brix, but after drying the grapes had reached between 36 and 39 brix.”

While the brix levels rose, the acid, pH and TA remained the same as when first picked. After five weeks, the fruit was then de stemmed and soaked in its own juice for 24 hours. Then it was fermented, half in American oak, the other half in French oak. It was finally bottled five months later.

The very limited wine has already received rave reviews, as wine that is; “Sweet and concentrated, yet not cloying because the natural acidity of the grapes ensures a fresh, lively citrusy finish.” (From wine reviewer Sue Courtney.)

Eureka is a new wine company, with just two wines in its current portfolio.

The Straw Wine Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and the Marlbor-

A single layer of bunches are laid out on straw to dry.

ough Gewurztraminer, both 2011.

Both Rae and Girling are adamant they want to create wines that stand out and fit the company’s name.

The success of their initial Straw Wine Sauvignon Blanc has now got them thinking about what other varieties could be processed in this age old tradition.

“We would like to trial as many different varieties as we can, Girling said. “We are also looking

at making a straw Pinot Gris, as well as a standard Pinot Gris, then we might try a partial combination. Not everything we do will work, we realise that. But we want to experiment, be innovative, and see where it takes us.”

“But at the same time we don’t want people to think we are being radical for the sake of it, said Rae. “What we want is to push the boundaries.” tessa.nicholson@me.com ■

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 57

INDUSTRY NEWS

LOSCAM PALLETS IN NZ Loscam pallets can now be seen in the New Zealand market as the company gears up for aggressive growth in 2012. The roll out in New Zealand achieved a major milestone with the signing of a supply and operations agreement with Progressive late last year. Foodstuffs start-up remains on track with changes required to some of their systems being done over the next month or so with Loscam pallets being able to be received into the Foodstuffs national supply chain soon after.

The market leader in Asia Pacific, Loscam provides pallet rental services to the wine sector,

with over 150 customers throughout the wine supply chain including vineyards, wineries, packagers, distributors, logistics providers and retailers.

A growing list of customers are taking advantage of their convenient multiple depot locations in Auckland and the national network of 17 depots, all now open for business.

Loscam is also offering cross border services with Australian and Asian pallets available for export shipments, which can then be de-hired in the receiving country.

They are also receiving

shipments on NZ pallets from Australia which are then de-hired in NZ. “The response has been fantastic both to our solutions and to the 4 way entry pallet as it is provid-

ing improved utility and safety as well as increased operational efficiency” says Chris Sharples, General Manager. ■

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ANDREW HORTON

Phone +64 3 214 4817 Fax +64 3 218 3354 Mobile +64 21 276 9676

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info@woodshield.com.au Call +61 7 3271 5575 John Mob. 027 249 7668

www.woodshield.com.au NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 59

INDUSTRY NEWS

THE FENDT 200PS M

arlborough’s Kaituna Vineyard manager Peter Duncan, is highly impressed with the Fendt 209P and 211P tractors.

Like all Fendts, they have Vario transmissions but with a width of just 1.8m they are smaller than your average tractor so they can fit down vineyard rows.

Kaituna Vineyard, on the northern bank of the Wairau River is 105ha and has six varieties of grapes with Sauvignon Blanc the

most abundant. Phil Dixon has worked there for nine years and is the vineyard foreman. Though it is the first time he has driven Fendt, it was not a difficult step to make.

A particular favourite is cruise control, which Dixon uses in conjunction with headland management. He puts the tractor on cruise control going down the rows and with a push of a button headland management stops the implements and raises them as the tractor prepares to turn.

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With another push of a button everything is lowered and restarted again in the programmed order. Then he can flick the tractor back into cruise control.

Headlands in the vineyard are vulnerable to damage, which is why Dixon likes the automatic four wheel drive. If a turn exceeds 15o deg, the four-wheel drive automatically switches off, saving the ground from getting ripped up.

“It’s easy to spend an eight to 12 hour day in the cab. The airconditioning and stereo help, and the cabs are quiet.”

With the Vario transmission, Dixon only uses the clutch when he starts the tractor. He then controls everything with the joystick.

“Push the gear stick forward and it changes automatically, or a quick flick forward and it changes one gear.”

The Fendts do a variety of tasks at Kaituna Vineyard – towing the

sprayer, leaf plucker, defoliator and trimmer. One of Fendt’s strengths is their ability to accommodate any brand of implement.

Often the crew have a trimmer on front and the mower on the back.

Being able to adjust the hydraulic flow rate on every implement with the twist of a dial makes the job more efficient.

“I can turn down the trimmer and still have the mower on the back at 540,”Dixon said. “The Fendts can work in lower revs than most tractors. I run the mower at 1600 but otherwise it’s usually around 1250 to 1300.”

Fuel efficiency is another attribute being noticeably better than their other tractors.

“When we work with the big sprayer we can turn down the hydraulics because it doesn’t need the high revs. That saves fuel,” Duncan said. ■

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NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 61

CALENDAR JUNE 2

12

19

21

Cape Kidnapper’s Winemaker Dinner – Cape Kidnapper’s Resort Details www. capekidnappers.com

Hot Red Hawkes Bay – Wellington Details and tickets www.eventfinder.co.nz

NZW South Island Grape Days Marlborough Convention Centre, Blenheim

NZW North Island Grape Days Hastings Opera House

JULY 1

13

The 30th and last ever First Glass Wine Options National Final Crowne Plaza – Auckland.

Details www.first-glass.co.nz

Hot Red Hawkes Bay – Auckland Details and tickets – www.eventfinder.co.nz

AUGUST 2-5

22-24

The Food Show ASB Showgrounds – Auckland

Romeo Bragato Conference – Marlborough Convention Centre – Blenheim Full details and registrations at www.bragato.org.nz

The Food Show, August 2-5.

SEPTEMBER 4-6

10-12

14-16

29

Spieglau International Wine Competition Blenheim

New Zealand International Wine Show judging Auckland

The Food Show CBS Canterbury Arena

Awards Dinner – New Zealand International Wine Show Crowne Plaza – Auckland

OCTOBER

NOVEMBER

15-17

5-7

The Marlborough Wine Show judging Blenheim

The Air New Zealand Wine Awards, November 5-7.

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// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

Air New Zealand Wine Awards Judging Auckland

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

28-31

2

Pinot Noir 2013 Wellington

Nelson International Aromatic Symposium

STATISTICS

SUMMARY OF KEY INDICATORS

PRINCIPAL EXPORT MARKETS Exports up again

Following is a summary of key indicators at intervals:

1985

1990

1995

2000

2010

No. of Growers

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

1128

Exports for the 12 months to March 2012 (Moving Annual Total)

No. of Wineries

n/a

n/a

204

358

672

Producing area (Ha)*

5,900

4,880

6,110

10,197

33,428

Country

8.0

$/L 2012 $/L 2011

Average yield (t/Ha)

13.2

14.4

12.2

7.8

Tonnes crushed

78,000

70,265

74,500

80,100

266,000

Total production (m.L) 59.6

54.4

56.4

60.2

190.0

Domestic sales (m.L)

42.6

39.2

30.9

41.3

56.7

(litres NZ wines)

13.1

11.7

8.7

10.6

13.0

Export volume (m.L)

0.8

4.0

7.8

19.2

142

Exp. value (m.$NZ fob) 3.0

18.4

40.8

168.4

1041.0

Litres (m)

$ Fob Average Average

United Kingdom 60,830

302,691

4.98

5.59

USA

37,596

242,824

6.46

7.27

Australia

51,073

368,106

7.21

7.36

Canada

6064

64,546

10.97

9.14

Netherlands

4903

28,776

5.87

7.27

Denmark

1135

7.292

6.42

6.75

Ireland

1974

15,538

7.87

8.27

Japan

1.032

11,792

11.42

12.68

Germany

1024

6960

6.80

6.44

China

1993

23,617

11.85

10.55

Hong Kong

1468

18,524

12.62

13.23

Singapore

1102

14,007

12.71

11.74

Finland

0.276

2,642

9.55

9.22

Norway

0.250

2094

8.36

7.90

Sweden

1347

10,908

8.09

8.43

4.639

46,211

9.96

10.19

171,713 1,168,535,747

6.61

7.04

Per capita consumption:

*estimate of probable total scaled up from actual returns

MAJOR NZ VINEYARD AREAS Region (Actual)

2010 (Forecast)

2012 (from 2010)

% Change Area (2010)

% Total

Marlborough

19295

19570

+1.4%

57.7%

Hawkes Bay

4947

5046

+2.0%

14.8%

Gisborne

2083

2003

-3.9%

6.2%

Otago

1540

1543

+0.2%

4.6%

Canty/Waipara

1779

1828

+2.7%

5.3%

Wairarapa/Wgtn

871

885

+1.6%

2.6%

Nelson

842

880

+4.6%

2.5%

Auckland

550

573

+4.1%

1.6%

Waikato/BoP

147

147

n.c.*

0.4%

National total

33428

33600

+0.5%

100.0%

MAJOR VARIETIES IN MAJOR AREAS New Zealand’s total producing vineyard will increase by only 0.5% over the next 2 years. This table shows the variation for major varieties (in Ha), with % change and percentage of total in 2012.

Variety (Actual)

2010 (Forecast)

2012 (from 2009)

% Change Area (2011)

% Total

Sauv. Blanc

16910

17297

+2.2%

44.3%

Chardonnay

3865

3792

-1.9%

11.3%

Pinot Gris

1763

1764

n.c.*

4.3%

Riesling

986

1009

+2.3%

2.7%

Gewurztraminer

314

290

-7.7%

0.9%

Semillon

185

182

-2.7%

0.5%

Pinot Noir

4773

4828

+1.1%

13.9%

Merlot

371

1403

+2.3%

4.0%

Cab.Sauvignon

519

521

+0.4%

1.5%

Syrah

297

300

+1.0%

0.8%

Cabernet Franc

161

162

n.c.*%

0.5%

+2.5%

0.5%

Malbec Total

157

33428

161 33600

+0.5%

Others

TOTAL

*(npr = not previously recorded separately) *n.c. = no change

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 63

RESEARCH SUPPLEMENT Information and Updates on NZ Winegrowers Research Programmes.

Associate Editors: Philip Manson, Science & Innovations Manager • Dr Simon Hooker, Research Programme Manager

A regular feature at the back of each issue of WineGrower to inform industry people about research projects being undertaken for their benefit. Newly approved projects (when available) are briefly summarised in the first section ‘Introducing New Projects’. Longer reports in the section headed ‘Progress Reports’, will describe what has been achieved so far. Scientists in charge of each project have been asked to make these reports reader-friendly rather than to follow the usual format of scientific papers. When completed, each project will be reported in full detail, with references, on the website: http://winenf.nzwine.com/research:asp

LIST OF PROJECTS Botrytis decision support (BDS) industry training & botrytis sampling protocols Plant and Food Research (Rob Beresford) Understanding causes of slip skin Plant and Food Research (Rob Beresford) Tools for manipulating Sauvignon blanc wine flavour and aroma: Harvest and processing of grapes Plant and Food Research (Claire Grose) Identification and quantification of chiral volatile compounds in New Zealand wines that affect aroma Lincoln University (Roland Harrison) A sex pheromone as a citrophilus mealybug monitoring tool (2011-12) Plant and Food Research (Jim Walker) Potassium nutrition of grapevines Plant and Food Research (Mike Trought)

Supported by MAF Sustainable Farming Fund

development Plant and Food Research (Marc Greven)

Tendrils as a source of seasonal carryover of Botrytis cinerea in vineyards Plant and Food Research (Dion Mundy) Supported by MAF Sustainable Farming Fund

Organic Focus Vineyard Project Organic Winegrowers New Zealand (Rebecca Reider) Supported by MAF Sustainable Farming Fund

Cryopreserved grapevine: a new way to maintain high-health germplasm and cultivar imports with less rigorous quarantine regulations Plant and Food Research (Ranjith Pathirana)

Unlocking New Zealand Pinot noir aroma through aroma reconstitution approach Auckland University (Paul Kilmartin)

Improving management of grapevine trunk diseases in New Zealand South Australian Research & Development Institute (SARDI) (Mark Sosnowski)

Identification of natural genetic variation in grapevine contributing to pathogen resistance Lincoln University (Chris Winefield) The effect of light on grape berry and leaf biochemistry Lincoln University (Brian Jordan)

The impact of harvest technologies on grape and wine components of importance for protein stability Lincoln University (Roland Harrison)

Identification of metabolites in high-thiol grape juices Auckland UniServices Ltd (Silas Villas-Boas)

Understanding the accumulation of fruit based green aromatic methoxypyrazine compounds in Marlborough Sauvignon blanc grape berries Plant and Food Research (Jeff Bennett)

Implementation of Virus Elimination Strategy Various (Nick Hoskins – Project Manager) Supported by MAF Sustainable Farming Fund

Managing Botrytis in New Zealand Viticulture Vino Vitis Ltd (Ruby Andrews)

Investigation of perceived minerality in white wine Lincoln University (Wendy Parr)

The Effect of Post-Harvest Defoliation on Carbon and Nitrogen Balance of High Yielding Sauvignon Blanc Vines Plant and Food Research (Marc Greven)

New opportunities for sustainable grape thinning Plant and Food Research (Mike Trought)

The influence of canopy management and architecture of Sauvignon blanc grapevines on fruit and vegetative

New Zealand Winegrower Magazine Research Articles Various

Early defoliation: carryover and hand versus mechanical Eastern Institute of Technology (EIT) (Mark Krasnow) Residue profile in grape leaves and sheep meat and offal from leaf plucking in vineyards Agrivet Services Ltd (Ben Vlaming)

64

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

PROGRESS REPORTS

Understanding causes of slip skin Robert Beresford and Anne Gunson – Plant and Food Research 11 - 119

“Slip skin” is a problem for the New Zealand wine industry as it results in apparently healthy fruit that are ready for wine making becoming rotten and unusable in a period of a few days under certain conditions. New Zealand grape growers periodically request information on the causes and control of slip skin, but to date the exact conditions that result in expression of this disease have not been determined. Research into these conditions in New Zealand is needed so it can be better understood by growers and methods for its control can be developed.

“Slip skin” is a distinct symptom of Botrytis cinerea infection of grape berries. It is characterised by the softening of the attachment between the grape skin and the pulp of the berry, allowing the skin to slip easily from the pulp when the berry is squeezed. The softening is caused by pectolytic enzymes produced by B. cinerea in the skin of the grape. In New Zealand, slip skin can appear suddenly at a high incidence in some grape crops when fruit are near their harvest sugar content (e.g. >20 °Brix). It occurs in the Gisborne region in most seasons, frequently in Hawke’s Bay, and sporadically in Marlborough. It is the unexpected appearance at high incidence that causes concern for grape growers, and the pectolytic enzymes produced by the pathogen render the grapes unusable for winemaking.

With funding from NZ Winegrowers, PFR scientists have begun a project that seeks to understand the expression of slip skin under New Zealand conditions, using a low-cost field experimental approach. This methodology can be applied in future projects to investigate practical control of this unwanted symptom, perhaps by such means as calcium sprays to improve cell wall integrity, or the use of waterproofing spray adjuvants.

Our initial hypothesis is as follows: Slip skin develops when near-ripe grape berries that have a high incidence of latent B. cinerea

infection are subjected to wetting. Latent B. cinerea is kept inactive by the high osmotic potential of sugars in near-ripe berries. Sudden water availability provided by rainfall promotes B. cinerea growth and the production of the pectolytic enzymes that cause both detachment of the skins and the oxidation of wine.

We are reviewing the international literature for evidence of weather conditions and other host and pathogenic factors that contribute to slip skin expression and are testing the

hypothesis experimentally in vineyard trials in three regions. Multiple regions allow interactions between weather conditions and the experimentally imposed treatments to be interpreted within a single season.

Three field sites have been established in Pinot Noir vineyards, one in each of Auckland, Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough. At each site, general disease management programmes have been applied, according to local requirements. Five replicated treatments have been applied to tagged berry bunches. Switch® fungicide has been applied to some treatments. At véraison, selected treatment bunches were inoculated with Botrytis cinerea to establish latent infections, by puffing with dry spores. The timing of some of the work has been a little later than planned because the season is two weeks later than normal, but the use of Pinot noir, an early variety, should allow berries to reach the harvest target soluble solids content (°Brix) in a timely fashion. The final results of the experiment will be presented in a report and popular article to New Zealand Winegrowers in October 2012.

This bunch shows a bit of sporulation and also the wet mushy looking berries that probably have slip skin.

PHOTO: ROBERT LAMBERTS

NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012 // 65

Botrytis decision support (BDS) Rob Beresford, Alistair McKay, Peter Wood, Rob Agnew (Plant & Food Research) Mike Barley (HortPlus) 11-120 The web-based version of the Botrytis Decision Support (BDS) system was successfully developed during 2010-2011 and user-tested, with funding support from NZW. We received very useful feedback from a small group of test users.

We are now working on the next stage of implementation of this programme. This stage will finalise the BDS web system, to make it ready for widespread promotion, and will set up industry training. This will promote widespread uptake by wine industry users and by associated horticultural consultancy and agrichemical industry users.

66

// NZ WINEGROWER JUNE/JULY 2012

We are consulting three training groups (wine company VSOs and viticulture consultants), in each of Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough.

We are holding one-on-one meetings and training on use of the BDS website, both the early-season and the late-season prediction models.

This will enable us to produce and optimise training resource material for ongoing wine industry support, and to refine the web platform according to the users’ recommendations.

In addition, we are using the theoretical botrytis sampling protocol methods we have

previously developed to incorporate a vineyard sample size calculator and an incidenceseverity converter into the BDS website. We are testing and validating those sampling protocols under commercial grape production conditions, in three vineyards in each of two regions, by repeatedly sampling during grape ripening.

HortPlus™ has carried out development and programming of the BDS web platform to date. We will continue to use them to incorporate the final refinements to it.

We gratefully acknowledge the ongoing funding of this BDS programme by NZW.

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NEW ZEALAND WINEGROWER

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ISSUE

74

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