Crema - Autumn

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Publishing edi†or Ashley Felderhof

Sub-edi†or Libby Brooke

ar† Director

autumn 2004 contents AUTUMN 2004

Keith Sharpe

Con†ribu†ors Ken Gargett Melissa Rimac Gary Try Hamish Ta-mé

Pho†ography Ashley Felderhof Melissa Rimac Hamish Ta-mé Keith Sharpe Gary Try

Distribution Gordon and Gotch

Design

S2 Creative Pty limited (02) 9554 8334

Printing

Pirion Pty Ltd

Advertising

Ashley Felderhof Tel: (02) 516 2157

Crema™Magazine PO BOX 211 Alexandria NSW 1435 Tel: (02) 9516 2157 email: cafecomm@bigpond.net.au

Crema™is published by Café-communications and is copyright.

We welcome contributions, but accept no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

ABN 92 972 810 412 www.cremamagazine.com.au ISSN 1447-4859

features BARCELONA: Catalonia’s capital – home of great food, wine… and Gaudi

page

6

SABAH: Lush and luxurious - Malaysia’s hottest tourist destination

10

LIZ DEEP-JONES: an interview with SBS TV’s larger-than-life sports presenter

20

CAFES OF TURIN: the Salon City: we continue our exploration of the Antica Caffes of Italy

24

MASTERCLASS: Grinding: join Lavazza training manager Kate Fellowes as she explains the key to a great home espresso

28

regulars BOOKS: new releases in food and travel

31

I WANT: latest and greatest products…go on, treat yourself

18

KEN GARGETT ON WINE: riesling – the great all-rounder

22

COFFEE NEWS: the latest snippets from here and overseas

32

CAFÉ BEAT: music reviews

35

ROAST ‘N GROUND: news from the world of Australian coffee

36

CAFÉ SCENE: new cafés in Sydney and Melbourne

38

INDUSTRY: profile – Dan Fitzsimmons the coffee roaster

40

3

editorial

editorial

Welcome to the new-look Crema magazine ~ we hope you like i. ™

Also sporting a new look is Café Scene – our website for the coffee industry [www.cafescene.com.au].

ed.

It covers trade issues, including special events, barista competitions and a chat room. It’ll also include a situations vacant section, with Employees Wanted advertisements and also the opportunity for those looking for work to

place an ad. We believe this will be the premier place for those in the Australian coffee industry to look for and advertise jobs, and will be a useful addition to www.cremamagazine.com.au, already the most hit-upon site in the Australian coffee scene.

This issue

is jam-packed with great travel stories including

Ken Gargett, in his inimitable style, taking us for a jaunt through Barcelona, and a feature on the up-and-coming Malaysian resort of Sabah. For home coffee-lovers, we’ve got a special feature on grinding, and we continue our series with Gary Try exploring the Cafés of Italy; this issue features the salon city of Turin.

Along with our regular features, this issue will definitely be one to sit down with a good espresso and enjoy from cover to cover.

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rcelona Espan BaBARCELONA

barcel

destination >>

barcelo

Barcelona is one of those magical cities that provokes

fierce passions and curious reactions in all who visit her. This is a city bursting at the seams with life, offering something for everyone. indication that this

and washed down with a glass of the ubiquitous chilled albarino, the perfect introduction

was no ordinary place came when

to the city. I had expected that we’d be sipping sherry wherever we went but it was almost

waiting in the queue to transfer

as hard to find there as it is here. Apparently, it is much more popular in the southwest.

from domestic to international at

And non-smokers beware, a pall of cigarette smoke hangs over the city, oozing out from

Sydney Airport. Chatting to the

almost every restaurant. The food though, is different and exciting. We were soon snacking

elderly English woman in front of

on goose barnacles, squid, deep fried peppers, razor clams, chorizo, smoked stuffed

me, she enquired as to where I was

artichokes, dried tomatoes and something

bound. I told her. ‘Ah’, she said.

which alone makes the journey to

‘Barcelona. That is my little York-

Barcelona worthwhile, the extraordinary

shire terrier’s favourite airport’.

jamon, surely the best in the world.

My first

e s o h t f o e n o s i Barcelona that pro vokes magical cities fierce passions is one of those

Barcelona

My query as to post lunch plans was

want

met with a bemused look. If we don’t

to waste a minute and soon after

hurry we’ll be late for lunch, was the

touching down, our small group

response. So we jumped into the

rushed to our hotel from where

nearest cabs. As we’d flown in,

we were to head off to lunch.

we could see how densely packed

A Spanish friend had promised

the

us something special from one of

and brown it appeared from

the country’s hottest young chefs.

the air. The compactness

As

makes Barcelona a

cities

it

where

you

happened,

don’t

we

walked

city

was,

straight across the road from the

wonderful place

hotel into La Cintos, a small,

for

smoky

large

on foot but,

stuffed pike on the wall and a

despite traffic

dazzling array of seafood dishes

lunacy, there

bar/café

with

a

and

how

dry

exploring

behind the counter. Leather faced old locals who held up the bar shifted

slowly

to

one

end,

cigarettes never leaving their lips as they rather warily made room for us. Old stained glasses, more like vegemite jars, were produced for a beer and the dishes began tumbling across the counter. It felt like we’d stepped into an art house movie. Served as tapas, most

of

the

dishes

were

so

unfamiliar that they could have doubled for extras in a Star Wars flick, but they were delicious

6

CREMAAUTUMN2004

nol

Barcelona : Espanol

ona

ona

are some journeys best taken by car, especially when conditions

We moved from carpaccio of foal to salad of manta

are as clammy as they can be. Barcelona enjoys a refreshing

ray with beetroot and pickles, cockles in mandarin sauce

sea breeze but if stifled by the buildings, the conditions can

to the wonderful Iberian ham. Perhaps the star was the

be oppressive.

sensuous grilled ducks’ livers on apricots which exploded

We headed down

to the Gothic Quarter, a tourist

mecca with its endless museums, galleries and restaurants.

Our immediate destination was the famous Xampanyet, one of Spain’s great tapas bars. Jampacked with locals and tourists, the tile covered walls are adorned with antiques and

in a burst of flavour. This is the new tapas at its best and, this being

late

afternoon,

lunch

was

finally

underway.

The Spanish take an admirably serious view of the ‘midday’ meal. A surprising find on the wine list was David Wynn’s Shiraz.

oddities while the shelves are lined with empty wine bottles -

A brief respite, a Spanish euphemism for a few drinks,

Petrus, Bollinger, Mouton, La Tache, L’ermita: someone has

and we were ready for Barcelona’s best traditional tapas -

drunk well. Open since 1929, Xampanyet is considered to

Cal Pep. This is a tiny bar seating 20, meaning a permanent

serve the finest anchovies on the planet and there will be no

queue outside its doors. There is a small room out the back

argument from us. Tables are shared, if you can find one, but

with a few tables if you are connected, which fortunately

the bump and grind of humanity will make this a place one

our friend was, so we were out among the frantic waiters and

loves or hates. Either way, go at least once for the anchovies.

yet another extraordinary cellar, this time with a focus

By now, I was in Spanish

mode and the rest of

the day could look after itself but we were suddenly hustled out of the place by our friend as we were, most definitely now, late for lunch. In Spain, however, restaurants that are quieter than church at 2.30pm will be bursting with life by four. Don’t even think of dinner before nine.

on magnums - DRC, First Growths, Vega Sicilia and L’ermita.

It says much that Cal Pep was the place to which most of our small group returned at every opportunity, though we

couldn’t

Marisk,

Cal

stay

away

Isidre

and

worth

a

visit.

At

moment, Spanish cooking is the most exhilarating

the city. It seemed every telephone pole, mailbox and wall

on the planet.

was haphazardly decorated with them. Yes, my friend told me, any government position but for something far more important. The election was for the president of Barcelona’s local soccer club, one of the best in Spain. The leading candidate was running on a platform of bringing David Beckham to the team and that was all the talk. Locals claimed to have spotted Beck and Posh here, there and everywhere. Newspapers lived and breathed for Beckham trivia. Of course, it is now well known that the English captain went to their hated rivals, Real Madrid. Just what that did for the candidate’s election chances, I’m not sure but given the passion involved, probably not much.

Maria

either.

the

to this ‘third’ lunch, I remarked on the

the city was approaching a vital election, not for Mayor or

Santa

Casa Fernandez are others

election posters covering every spare square inch offered by

As we walked

from

Great dining

is not

confined to the city. Just to the north at Sant Pol de Mar, with its two Michelin stars, is Sant Pau. One sits in the elegant dining room some 40 metres from the Mediterranean and enjoys the

cuisine

of

Carme

Ruscalleda, a disciple of the current superstar of the kitchen, Ferran Adria. Her speciality is desserts and on matching cheese, not with wine but with an astonishingly innovative range of other foods. Adria’s

Our ‘true’ lunch was at Santa Maria, one of the most

El Bulli is a few hours further north but brings people from

famous of modern Catalan restaurants. Young chef, Paco

around the world like moth’s to a culinary flame. The trouble

Guzman, has shown his talent as far afield as classes in

is getting a booking. He is only open for half the year, the

Melbourne. Again, the food was fabulous, an intriguing mix of

rest he spends experimenting and fine tuning his cooking,

local and international dishes and techniques - ‘fusion tapas’.

and is reputed to have a waiting list of ten years.

CREMAAUTUMN2004

7

Barcelona : Espanol

o

o

on the spur of the

city of Antonio Gaudi. His extraordinary work still defines

moment and out of a morbid curiousity,

Barcelona. The ‘yet to be finished even though work

we wandered into a bullfight at the local

commenced in 1891' Sagrada Familia dominates the skyline

Plaza del Toro. Bullfighting is an entrancing, yet repelling

and is the symbol of the Catalan capital for the world.

spectacle - a mix of theatre and torture, butchery and ballet.

La Pedrera is unlike anything found elsewhere while a leisurely

The next day,

s ’ i d u a G o i n o t n A l l i t s k r o w y r a n i extraord . a n o l e c r a B s e n defi

wander around the Parc Guell on the hill behind the city is

Barcelona is less fanatical than much of Spain about this

awe-inspiring. Go in the quiet of the morning and contemplate

‘sport’ - like sherry, it is far more popular in the south of Spain

a man who contributed so much. It would come as no surprise

- and one of the city’s major rings is to be redeveloped into a

to see the March Hare and the Mad Hatter stroll by.

leisure centre. One thing to note is that every part of the slaughtered bulls, and at one stage the bulls were leading the

The Picasso Museum

fighters two to one (cheering for the bulls is considered poor

famous artist’s link with the city. Most of the works are

form by the locals), is sold in the market the next morning.

from his younger days, sometimes very young days. The nearby

Despite that, try as we might, we could find no restaurant

‘4 Gats’ restaurant is where he held his first exhibition

serving the famous criadillas, known to us as bulls’ testicles.

though these days. Much like Hemingway’s old haunts in

is a must and celebrates the

Havana, it is geared more to take advantage of the tourist

If you enjoy the cuisine then visit the source of much

trade than anything else. There is better food and better

of it, the throbbing market in the centre of the city,

value elsewhere. Another to visit is the Fundacio Joan Miró.

‘La Boqueria’, which is found on Las Ramblas. This is a great

Exhibitions and contemporary art abound, some controversial.

place to visit, bursting with life and all manner of produce

We saw everything from what appeared to be rubbish someone

from seafood, the like of which Southern Hemisphere eyes

forgot to take out, to a mind-blowing show of Kandinsky’s

have never sighted before, to gleaming fruit and vegetables

finest at La Pedrera.

arranged in immaculately neat piles. And everything in between. The place is photo-friendly and the locals keen to

Barcelona is a great place to use as a base for visits

show off what they offer. The best thing is that, unlike

to the nearby Catalan countryside or the beach resort of

markets in so many countries, there is no need to be there

Sitges. Some great wine is produced nearby. Cava is well

before the crack of dawn. One thing, don’t be surprised to see

prepared to indulge visitors though the region of Priorat and

the locals dragging their pets through the place and inevitably

the almost medieval mountain village of Grallatops will

smoking is almost encouraged. Across the road is the legendary

be much more of an adventure. Worth it as this desolate, hilly

Museu de l’erotica.

district is emerging as one of the world’s most exciting red wine finds. It is definitely worth exploring the small villages

Las Ramblas is the spine of Barcelona, traversing the city, eventually ending up in the popular Port district. As wide as a football field, this tree-lined thoroughfare offers the lot but the greatest joy here is people watching. Thousands of them, locals and tourists alike, come to spend their day just strolling up and down or stopping for a coffee or a bite to eat at one of the many outdoor cafés. There are street entertainers,

and towns in the region as you will find a world unlike anything experienced by Australians. In one tiny village, I asked why fresh crosses had been painted on the doors of a few houses. These indicated those villagers who had supported Franco. Such was the division and rancour that persisted to this day, the locals were not about to forgive or forget.

especially human statues, stalls overflowing with flowers next to those squawking with birds, balloon sellers, musicians and more. There is an air of uninhibitedness amongst the people which seems to start here and pervade all Barcelona, perhaps a hangover of the reaction to the days of Franco. Certainly, one suspects that no one will get rich selling bras in Spain.

For many, the galleries

and the architecture are

what draws them from all corners of the globe for this is the

8

And yes, I’m still trying to work out why a dog would have a favourite airport but it is much easier to understand why Barcelona is so many people’s favourite city.

CREMAAUTUMN2004

l

KBG

Sabah Borneo :

destination >>

Sabah BORNEO borneo

Centuries after treasure seekers first fell for Borneo’s mythical lure, Melissa Rimac finds that she too is irrevocably drawn; enchanted by giant turtles, orangutans, rare orchids and yesteryear’s charms.

BORNEO. You only have to say the word, and almost

more so, Sabah’s outlying

inevitably, it evokes images of a wild, exotic, mysterious place,

regions – uncannily reminded

plump with the promise of adventure. It’s not just a romantic

me of the South East Asia

vision, however. Borneo’s riches have enticed traders, raiders

I’d fallen in love with in

and dreamers for centuries, but while headhunters and ‘White

the early 80’s and have

Rajas’ have gone the way of other good yarns, there’s still

yearned for ever since…

plenty to lure modern adventurers.

open-fronted curry houses

TO VISIT BORNEO today is to immerse yourself in natural wonders: the world’s oldest rainforests, steamy, tangled jungles, pristine reefs, rugged mountains, mighty rivers, and, thanks to its extraordinary bio-diversity – exotic and rare flora and fauna.

THESE DAYS however, you don’t have to be a swashbuckler

(the place for a caffeine jolt) spilt tables, sociable patrons and enticing aromas onto pavements. Stalinist architecture hadn’t caught on and best of all – people laughed and looked unhurried.

to ‘discover’ Borneo. In Sabah, on Borneo’s north, which, along with sister state Sarawak is referred to as ‘Malaysian Borneo’, exploring the intrigues is extremely accessible, comfortable, hassle-free and affordable.

THANKS TO new direct air links and tempting packages focusing on the capital, Kota Kinabulu, Sabah has recently registered on the radar of Australian travellers. But, whilst these deals combine all the elements for a thoroughly relaxing and enjoyable holiday, it would be a tragedy – a travesty, in fact, to visit this remarkable part of the world and not venture further; especially in light of the ease of striking out.

THAT SAID, however, we’d barely begun lounging in our very hip, freshly renovated room at Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru resort, before we were lamenting moving on so soon. Low slung and refreshingly laid back, Kota Kinabalu, – and, even

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sabah borneo

FOR A TRIP down the time tunnel, ride aboard Borneo’s only

REACHING KINABALU’S SUMMIT involves a vigorous,

train and kick back in restored Raj-era carriages that beat a

immensely enjoyable two day walk which begins in velvety

path through nippah palms and pull into charming towns of

rainforest then climbs ever upwards – into cloud-piercing dewy

brightly painted timber stilt-houses and elegantly crumbling

oak forests, through heath-lands of skeletal trees, dainty

shopfronts, welcoming locals, fascinating markets (seemingly

flowers and dreamy palettes, before reaching the comfortable

specialising in medicinal herbs); whilst sipping tea from

rest-house at 3100m and surrounding stunted alpine scrub,

glistening white china.

lichen-coated basalt chunks and ocean of clouds.

A SHORT BOAT ride away lie the five islands of Tunku

TO DELVE INTO Borneo’s signature jungles and wildlife,

Abdul Rahman National Park and their powdery beaches,

head for eastern Sabah and the historic, bustling port city of

walking trails and curious monkeys. Or, to snap up bargain

Sandakan – a cheap half hour flight from KK, or scenic few

souvenirs and people watch, become part of the colourful

hours’ drive. Though essentially a springboard for the region’s

chaos at Kota Belud Sunday Market, reached by a scenic drive

wilder attractions, Sandakan – a pivotal player in the Pacific

past a patchwork of iridescent lime paddies, traditional timber

War, is an interesting place to while away a few hours – or

houses, and tropical fruits stalls.

days. For a scenic, seriously civilised drink or meal, try the

BARELY AN HOUR AWAY is Mt Kinabalu – which at 4100m and rising, dwarfs every other peak between the Himalayas and New Guinea. Heady heights aside, the real

English Tea House or lively, eclectic Habib’s curry house (opposite the market), both offering great food and an excellent opportunity to meet locals.

attraction is on the ground. Kinabalu Park encompasses 4

THE ICON OF BORNEO’S WILDLIFE

climatic zones to form a vast botanical powerhouse; with over

is the personable, precariously endangered

1000 species of orchids – including prized rare species,

orangutan. The only species of great apes

carnivorous pitcher plants – capable of swallowing rats and

found outside of Africa, orangutans share

explosively colourful rhododendrons. Up above fly more than

96% of human genes and with their whispy

518 species of birds, including several species of hornbills and

ginger fur, penetrating gaze and comical

giant butterflies. Both Kinabalu Park and nearby Poring Hot

antics – it’s hard to deny the resemblance.

Spring reserve are criss-crossed with walking trails.

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borneo

o

sabah borneo

o

AT THE SEPILOK Orangutan Rehabilitation

Sandakan. The trees encasing the lodge look as if

Sanctuary, just out of Sandakan, orphaned and

they’re about to get up and walk, and indeed this

rescued orangutans are given sanctuary and

writhing jungle hosts a stunning array of wildlife;

taught how to monkey around. Though it’s hard

proboscis and silver leaf monkeys, macaques,

to imagine when they’re making faces at you,

wild elephants, jungle cats, gibbons, wild boar,

these Orangutans are wild and getting up close

mouse deer, anteaters, giant squirrels, as well as

and personal with them is such a privileged,

exotic birds. Behind the lodge is a boardwalk that

uplifting encounter, it deserves far more than a

delves deep into the jungle magic by moonlight.

fleeting visit. Linger longer, slowly savour the jungle’s many moods and your experience will be vastly richer. Afternoons are especially evocative, when, awash with golden light, the cathedral-like canopy jumps with animals stirring from siesta.

This is also prime time for walking the reserve’s trails, where, late one afternoon, we were joined by an elderly orangutan couple strolling hand-in-

SUCCESSFUL wildlife spotting depends largely on luck, but the sheer romance and moodiness of being deeply ensconced within virgin jungle is unbeatable and profits go towards conservation efforts. Not to be missed, especially, are the dawn boat rides that chug gently through curtains of mist to seek out hidden oxbow lakes.

hand. You’ll soon recognize some prevailing

UNDERWATER HOWEVER, the wildlife

personalities, like Mr G, the flirtatious playboy,

is literally within arm’s reach. Several islands off

painfully shy Amoy, or brazen Ricardo, who once

Sabah’s coast offer world class diving; such as

divested a Frenchman of his clothing – though he

the plush, new Lankayan Island Resort,

did return the hapless traveller’s credit card and

which between March-May is visited

passport soon afterwards!

OUR BUNGALOW at the Sepilok Nature Resort was an experience in itself. It nudged up against the jungle, was enveloped with exuberant gardens, overshadowed by towering

by whale sharks, and the stilt village of Kapalai – both short boat trips from Sandakan. But the jewel is tiny Sipadan; the tip of an ancient volcano

mahogany and ironbark trees, and accessed by a series of moats. At night, the heavy air dripped jungle noises and I half expected orangutans and wild cats to drop by – as they’re known to do.

ANOTHER WONDERFUL wildlife immersion is to take a river boat through the swampy lowland riverine jungles to Sukhau, an emerging eco-tourism hotspot, best reached

by Sukhau Rainforest Lodge boats from

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“GOT TA’ BE THERE”

MALAYSIA Experience the wonders of Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur, Asia’s new excitement capital or fabled Langkawi with its superb 5-star beach resorts, lush tropical rainforests and duty-free shopping.

Perhaps you’d rather Penang, Pearl of the Orient. Explore its rich colonial history and taste the many flavours of local cuisine. Or Sabah, Malaysian Borneo, with its crystal clear lagoons, jungles with orangutans and elephants and luxury spa resorts. Or visit Sarawak, with its world-renowned Mulu Caves, unique wildlife and fascinating Iban and Dayak ethnic cultures.

“GOT TA’ SEE THAT” Tourism Malaysia Australia Sydney: 2nd Floor, 171 Clarence St. Sydney, N.S.W. 2000 Tel: (02) 9299 4441/2/3 www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my malaysia@malaysiatourism.com.au Perth: Ground Floor MAS Bld, 56 William St. Perth, W.A. 6000 Tel: (08) 9481 0400

sabah borneo

rising 2000 metres from the sea bed,

legendary

amongst

dive

officiados and celebrated by the late Jacques Cousteau for its visibility and profusion of pelagics (‘macro’ marine life). Though billed a ‘dive island’, Sipadan is just as acces-sible to snorkellers, who, thanks to the diversity of technicolour

corals

and

fish

nearer the surface, in many ways have the edge.

WE ARRIVED courtesy of a James Bondesque speedboat ride, cutting a blue blur past sleepy stilt villages and tiny, sandy specs, to be welcomed by two giant green turtles, who, I was thrilled to learn, along with their cousins the hawksbill’s, were everywhere!

FROM MY FIRST plunge into the warm turquoise depths, I was utterly entranced by visions that

e th to in e g n u l p st ir f y m m Fro s a w I s, th ep d se oi u rq tu warm t a th s n io is v by ed c n a tr en utterl y bordered on psychedelic.

bordered on psychedelic. A rare

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o

sabah borneo

o

opal coloured giant clam introduced the visual feast.

BETWEEN DIVES, we’d indulge in

Moments later, I was locked in an eyeball-to-eyeball encounter

hearty, tasty meals in the sociable common

with a gigantic, ancient looking green turtle – whilst a swirling

area, and the comforts of our bungalow;

mass of barracuda thickened around me, until I was enveloped

where we’d lie back, listen to lapping

within layer upon layer of shimmering, sword shaped profiles,

waves, watch for visiting monitor lizards

which when they’d catch the light, lit up like shards of

and turtles or snorkel over fields of soft

polished chrome. Below, feisty jackfish bullied a white-tipped

corals out front. That’s the beauty of a

reef shark. Further on, the scene turned Jurassic when a herd

dive resort; apart from the usual tropical

of lumbering bump-headed parrot fish stampeded across the

island delights, you’re amongst people

ocean floor, loudly gnawing on coral as they thumped past.

who share your passion, so conversations

SIPADAN’S atmosphere is mellow and friendly and the

and friendships flow easily.

routine is likewise relaxed. Throughout the day, boats head for

COME TO THINK OF IT, island life was

evocatively named dive-sites (all suitably shallow for

a perfect microcosm of Sabah: startlingly

snorkelling): hanging garden, barracuda point, white tip point

scenic, genuinely friendly, hassle-free and

and the wall – a favourite hammerhead hangout. Remarkably,

beguilingly oblivious to what lay beyond.

the underwater vistas at the dizzying 600m drop-off just off the beach are equally spectacular.

Catch it before ‘progress’ does!

o

o ESCAPE ROUTES Z

GETTING THERE

Quickest, most direct option: twice weekly Australian Airlines flights. Or, to take advantage of Kuala Lumpur stopovers (a shopper’s wonderland): twice daily Malaysia Airlines flights.

Z

GETTING AROUND

Sabah is very compact, and thanks to increased competition, internal flights (best purchased locally) are cheap, frequent and reliable. Long distance taxis and private cars are a good option through scenic areas.

Z

BEST TIMES

March – Sept for mating turtles at Sipadan, whale sharks on Lankayan, and blue skies.

However rainy season ( October-March) downpours are usually short sharp late afternoon affairs, and travel at these times can still be very enjoyable, with the added bonus of ‘off season’ discounts.

Z Z

LOGISTICS

English is widely spoken, no visas are required and credit cards are widely accepted.

ACCOMMODATION

Shangri- La resorts has two excellent properties around ‘KK’: the centrally located, newly renovated, Tanjung Anu, or the Rasa Ria; fronting a long beach, with its own ‘nature reserve’ home to 3 very entertaining orangutans and a host of other wildlife, plus an expansive golf course. Contact: www.shangri-la.com.

For info re: Sepilok Nature Resort, Sipadan Island Dive Resort and Lankayan Island, visit: www.sipadan-resort.com At Sepilok, ask staff for a cabin at the fringes of the resort, backing onto the jungle – they’ll think they’re doing you a favour by installing you closer to facilities! Sukau Rainforest Lodge: visit: www.borneoecotours.com

Z

PACKAGES

Including airfares + 6 nights accommodation, from $ 1460 ex Sydney. ph: Travelindochina ph: 1300 367 666 or visit www.lrb.com.au Adventure Trips; such as jungle trekking, rafting, climbing, caving, diving, wildlife and bird-watching, with specialist guides. contact: Exotic Adventure; www.exotic-adventure.com.my

o

Z

16

FURTHER INFO

www.sabahtourism.com or Malaysia Tourism ph: 9299 4441.

o

CREMAAUTUMN2004

Keep your beans fresher This domestic coffee-bean hopper gives U.V. protection as well as dispensing from an airtight container.

Stylish design compliments any kitchen. RRP. $290.

Call (02) 9674 8415 for your nearest retailer.

Cool Snap…

The SONY DSC 828 with its 18-200mm zoom and 8 Megapixel resolution, blurs the distinction between point-andshoot and professional SLR in a way that has never been done before. We at Crema use a digital camera for most of our photography, so we have to say that we can judge a great ‘prosumer’ camera when we see one – this is a great camera and definitely on the pro side of prosumer. RRP $2199 Sony Australia

1300 72 0071 www.sony.com.au

Kick start your day…

Sunbeam may not seem the obvious candidate to produce a serious automatic domestic espresso machine, but this one’s a beauty. Utilising technology from commercial coffee machines, it produces authentic espresso coffees at the touch of a button – simply press for ‘one’ or ‘two’ cups and the Barista will do the rest.

Ideal for home or office, the Café Barista is the equal of many more expensive imported machines.

RRP $999.95 Call 1800 025 059 for more info: www.sunbeam.com.au

18

CREMAAUTUMN2004

Beam me up….

And now one for the purist…

This very clever digital pen is a revolution

In the beginning there was

in communication. Housing a sophisticated

the Montblanc Meisterstuck,

array of technology, it stores everything from

created in 1924 and possibly the

order forms to handwritten notes or sketches,

most famous pen of our time.

and transmits to any PC instantly via your

The recently released StarWalker

blue-tooth enabled mobile phone.

collection, with its hand-made

This is not a gimmic, but a serious business

rhodium-plated 14 karat gold nib,

tool. It’s also very cool. For more information

incorporates timeless elegance with

contact: Destiny Wireless Australia

new-age styling. Available from

(0416) 111 333 www.destinywireless.com.au

Montblanc boutiques 1300 364 810

Coffee to go…

0-100 kph in 5.1 sec. Perfect for a quick trip up to the local café for a soy latte. 911 C4S Cabriolet; RRP $251,200

plus on road costs. Porsche Cars Australia 1800 062 911

CREMAAUTUMN2004

19

in ich, aysia.

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riesling

Ken Gargex on wine

riesling

Riesling ~ the great allrounder The ‘all-round’ nature

of riesling is both one of

The spiritual home

of riesling is Germany, though

its great charms and toughest obstacles. Riesling can be

German riesling has been out of favour for some time.

bone-crackingly dry or lusciously, hedonistically sweet.

The push to drier wines and extremely confusing labels,

It can be enjoyed as the freshest and most vibrant of young

names and regulations have not assisted their cause.

things or spend decades in a cellar, building complexity and an

That said, at their best, these are some of the greatest wines

extraordinary array of flavours. It is this almost chameleon-

the world has ever seen and years ago, commanded prices

like ability that deters some drinkers from enjoying one of

equivalent to First Growth Bordeaux. There are many

the greatest grapes on the planet while others revel in those

great producers to be found in regions like Rheingau and

very characteristics.

Mosel but a personal favourite is Dr Loosen. The ‘basic’

y e l l a v clare

In Australia, we are blessed with some fantastic rieslings

from regions like South Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys

Kabinett and stunning Spatlese have a gossamer-like quality that makes silk seem coarse.

and Mt Barker in the West. There are plenty of other top rieslings from all over the continent. Most, unless labeled late harvest or botrytis, will be dry, often bone-dry. Some of the ‘commercial’ releases will contain some residual sweetness as the market for those wines, despite what it might claim, enjoys a bit of sugar. It can also help paper over some cracks in a few instances.

Our top rieslings

Whatever syle of riesling one prefers, enjoy is versatiliy.

It is a truly classic variey.

can be enjoyed for their youth,

freshness and vibrancy in the first year or two of their life or usually cellared with confidence, blossoming into wonderfully

The other contender for ‘great riesling region of the

complex, flavoursome wines. The move to screwcaps assists

world’ is Alsace, the strip of land now in the east of France

both styles as an aromatic variety like riesling is often one

that has been used as a political ping-pong ball for centuries

of the first to show any hint of taint. Also, trials to date

between France and Germany. Whereas riesling in Germany

suggest that screwcaps are an ideal way to allow a wine to

is streets ahead of every other grape (as they say, daylight

age well and show to its best down the track. There is certainly

second), in Alsace both Gewürztraminer and Pinot gris

much less variation from bottle to bottle.

can rival the best rieslings. Trimbach and their single vineyard

r e k r a B t n u o M

Clos St Hune are the gatekeepers for the dry style of

We have also had the good fortune to have several cracker

riesling while other top producers may stray more into the

riesling vintages. 2002 is a classic and one for the ages. 2003

richer, sweeter end of the spectrum.

is another stunner but the wines will show at their best earlier

y e l l a v eden

than the ‘02s. Some already do. At the time of writing, there

Top producers

was again much excitement in our best regions with early

Weinbach and my favourite, Zind Humbrecht. Robert Parker

indications that 2004 could be another brilliant riesling

has called winemaker Olivier Humbrecht the greatest white

vintage, making for an unprecedented trio. Although early,

wine maker on the planet and the evidence provided by his

and much can happen, the feeling is that ‘04 has more in

extraordinary wines goes a long way to supporting that.

common with 2002.

Riesling has rarely been so clearly defined and powerfully

Outside our shores, New Zealand makes some interesting

include Albert Mann, Hugel, Domaine

expressed.

efforts but has yet to reach the convincing standards needed

Whatever style of riesling one prefers, enjoy its versatility.

for them to be seen as a serious riesling producer. Oregon and

It is a truly classic variety.

Austria are doing well.

22

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g

cafés of ialy part 3

sdf Tørinø

TURIN: Salon City

tur

A city of grandiose Piazzas and elegant boulevards, Turin (Torino) is a very European ciy with a quiet air of Royal Majesy and hisorical signi0cance.

Nestled in the north west of Italy and close to both France and Switzerland, Turin’s historic development owes most of its influence to its past close ties with France and Austria, with less from Italy in which it exists. Turin is proud of its baroque architecture, elegant city layout and the 18 kms of porticoed promenades that surround the piazzas and grand boulevards of this “Salon City”.

In 1574 Turin became the capital of the House of Savoy and remained its seat of quasi-royal power into the 20th Century.

The much-loved Savoy family enjoyed the following and support of the masses and it is to the credit of these proud people that the Turin we find today – a city of royal elegance – developed as it has.

But Turin is not just a grand past. It was the birthplace of Italian industrialisation and today is second only to Milan in industrial output within Italy. Well known as the home of the massive Fiat automotive conglomerate and of course, the equally well-known and loved Juventus Football Club.

Along with housing the Shroud of Turin and being

host city of the 2006 Winter Olympics, Turin can also boast manufacturing – Nutella, Ferrero Rocher chocolates, TicTacs, Leone confectionary and internationally known coffee roaster – Lavazza. Lavazza started as a small coffee roaster in the heart of the old city centre in 1895 and today is very much a part of the city’s café lifestyle.

Second only to a good café–crawl around the piazzas of Turin is a sweet and chocolate shop promenade throughout the city. The legacy of Turin’s past associations with France and Austria are vividly obvious when you enter these lavish old-fashioned salons of chocolates, bonbons and jellied fruits.

24

CREMAAUTUMN2004

rino: salon city Baratti and Milano opened in 1875 on Piazza Castello. Its post-liberty

interior

soon

endeared itself to the city's populace

who,

since

its

opening have frequented it in huge crowds for their cakes, pastries, chocolates and sweets.

As in the past, you line up at the antique counter for your

On Sunday morning the well-dressed Torinese can be seen promenading their city with the family and the dogs

selection and enjoy the same rich sights and aromas. On Sunday

morning

the

well-

dressed Torinese can be seen promenading their city with the family and the dogs… window shopping and taking in

next

season’s

Armani

collection while feasting on Turin’s fine chocolates, then stopping perhaps to buy a gelato

from

Antica

Caffe-

Gelateria Fiorio (1780), before heading to their favourite café for an espresso and a look over the lavish pastry selection –

Eh, dolce vita Italiano!

CREMAAUTUMN2004

25

Tørinø:s grand chandeliers, oil paintings and imposing carved wooden

and marble fireplaces create an elegant atmosphere of a gracious past. The four-group espresso machine on the bar does not stop pouring a continual stream of short espressi for

One cafe that has become an institution in Turin

the “30 second coffee consumers” - after all, they say, that’s

is Caffe al Bicerin, which opened its doors to the public in

all it takes to “down” an espresso and why read your

1763. Nestled into a piazza of grand buildings and a beautiful

newspaper over coffee and ruin the quality of the liqueur?

church, Al Bicerin is easy to miss when looking up at the

I stand enlightened by their logic.

i t t a l P café

historic building facades that surround it. Outside on the piazza is a small tabled area to catch the sun while inside dark

A real gem of a café is Caffe Platti – 1870 in Corso Vitterio

wood, small marble-topped tables and low lighting add to the

Emanuelle, just along from Turin’s Stazione Porta Nuova.

ambience of the ever present aroma of chocolate and coffee.

From the portico running along the front of the café you first

Caffe al Bicerin is famous for its signature drink – “the

sight the original historic hand-painted illustration of a waiter

Bicerin” – which is dialect for “bicchiere”, a glass in Italian.

holding a platter high above his head. Surrounding the

The Bicerin is a mixture of espresso coffee and melted

illustration is a facade of

chocolate, served in a short-stemmed wine glass and topped

brass, mirror, marble and

with a layer of cream. Drink the chocolate-coffee mix through

dark wood that forces you

the cream and dip your brioche or pastry into the hot mix for

to

an experience unique to Turin.

appreciate this period café.

The taste and texture of the Bicerin is in no way similar to the Australian mocha coffee, as the Bicerin drink shows the melding of products served in a “confectionary” café, which became popular from the beginning of the 19th century onwards in Turin. The combination of coffee and confectionary in Turin’s cafés is as strong now as it was in 1800 and certain to remain an expression of the city's exceptional lifestyle.

The city of Turin is full of grand cafés and hosts a greater percentage of historic Antica caffes, coffee salons and grand drawing-room cafés than almost any other Italian city; it takes

stop

and

visually

The carefully maintained art-nouveau interior exists in its original form and it is very easy to slip back in time while sipping your favourite coffee or choosing a delight or two from the sweet counter. Baristas are attentive to your needs in prompt

flourishing

style

adding to the moment, but not dominating it.

many days of serious café crawling to get round them all – and that is just the city centre!

o n i u r t café 26

Caffe Mulassano (1907) is another art nouveau auth-

Caffe Turino (1903) is one of the most famous of Turin’s

entic jewel and a great

drawing-room cafés. Located on the porticoed Piazza San

experience. Members of the

Carlo, Café Torino is a stunning example of the city’s love

house of Savoy would take

affair with the baroque and classical elegance. On entering, the

coffee here, after strolling

long espresso bar to the left is home to a permanently moving

across Piazza Castello from

clientele of ‘‘stand, drink and go” espresso consumers, while on

the Palace. The whole piazza

the right the pastries and confectionary counter holds

would come to a standstill

hundreds of delights for those who care to sit and consume

while the people of Turin

in drawing–room style. Its gilded friezes, mirrored panels,

would cheer throwing their

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aløn city m e h t f o f Do hal e r i u q e r l l i and you w s e h t o l c f o a new set ! r e g r a l s e - two siz

hats in the air. Today, Caffe Mulassano is very close to the hearts of the Torinesi and as a visitor, it is easy to feel special while spending a moment in this café, for in the air a sense of royal elegance still permeates every element of its existence.

Grand Turin offers the coffee traveller a host of fabulous

moments

and

experiences. Take time to enjoy historic Confetteria Pasticceria Stratta (1836) or Ristorante-Caffe

Cambio

(1757) and stroll further on to Caffe Malabar (1890) and Caffe Maggiora (1884) – just to name a few. By the time you manage to “do” half

of

require

them a

new

you set

will of

clothes two sizes larger, and what a great reason to refresh the wardrobe one fashion season ahead of Australia. Because it is not one of the “Holy Trinity” (Rome, Venice, Florence) of tourist destinations in Italy, Turin is largely left alone by the tourists. This makes it easy for taking-in and enjoying Turin without the stress often found in other Italian and European Cities.

Discover Turin’s magnificent café culture – the experience is worth relinquishing every notch in your belt!

CREMAAUTUMN2004

27

†he ∂ailyGrin∂

coffee:GRINDERS †he dailyGrind

grinders

Kate Fellowes

is Training Manager at Lavazza in Sydney.

AS SHE RECOUNTS, one of her ‘coffee horror stories’ involves

THIS IS BECAUSE the essence

a person who grinds their coffee with a small domestic grinder.

of espresso coffee is forcing hot

“Every Monday I grind my coffee for the week and store it in

water under pressure through finely

a container”. Why bother? asks Kate, as in performing this

ground coffee. On the other hand, using espresso-ground

routine the person removes the very benefit of having a grinder

coffee in a plunger or filter will not work, and could clog up

at home. In this article she takes us through the basics of coffee

your filter (or even burst your plunger)!

benefits ?

They all seem to look the same, but depending on how you

PROBABLY THE MAIN BENEFIT of grinding at home is

make your coffee not all grinders will suit. Here is a guide on

freshness – there’s no way pre-ground coffee can compare to

what to look for.

grinding, and why it’s so important for getting a great coffee.

WHICH GRINDER should I buy?

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF OWNING a domestic grinder?

Bla∂e

THERE ARE MANY domestic coffee grinders on the market.

Which grinder?

coffee beans that have been ground just before brewing, in

terms of freshness. Why is this? Because the natural coffee

1. Blade grinders

oils are more protected in bean form (as less of the surface area

THESE ARE the least expensive of the domestic grinder range

of the coffee is exposed to air). Of course it helps to buy the

and are a good start in exploring freshly ground coffee at

freshest bean possible, but as long as you store the coffee

home. These grinders work like blenders – they chop the bean

correctly and grind only as much as you need, coffee bought in

into pieces. This results in the coffee grinds that are different

bean form will last longer than pre-ground.

sizes and different consistencies. Blade grinders have indicators

THE SECOND MAJOR BENEFIT increases in importance as

you get more serious about the type of coffee (especially espresso coffee) that you make at home. The key is that true espresso coffee requires a much finer grind than all other coffee brewing methods.

such as lights to show when the grinds reach a coarse, medium or fine grind. Opt for a fine grind as the other settings are extremely coarse. Blade grinders are great for fresh, strong plunger coffee and stovetop coffee, but not always for coffee made with espresso machines. The coffee grinds need to be of a very consistent size when preparing espresso.

TIP

If you brew coffee using different methods you will be able to match your coffee particle size to the method.

2. Grinder dosers

To achieve a great tasting plunger coffee, for example, the particle size will need to be larger than for espresso coffee.

Check the guide on page XX opposite to help you.

the US. Typically they would range from around $230 for a

THESE GRINDERS ARE OFTEN CALLED a ‘mill’ grinder in

cheap unit to around $1000 for an automatic café-style domestic grinder (eg the Mazzer). As the name suggests, this type of grinder has two main functions – grinding and dosing

28

CREMAAUTUMN2004

o

grinders grinders o coffee

esso the essence of espr † water o h g n i c r o f s i e e f f co h finely g u o r h † e r u s s e r p r e un∂ ground coffee. (measuring the coffee). Grinder/dosers have commercial

GRINDER DOSERS will have some

style grinder blades that grate or shave the coffee into even

kind of mechanism to control the

particles. These will either be conical or flat blades. Choose

amount of coffee you grind, and

conical blades if you can, they last a lot longer than the flat

some will even have a dispenser

variety, although both should be able to produce a consistently

that measures the coffee for you –

good grind. Grinders that use commercial–style blades will

all you need to do is flick the

have a collar or dial that will allow you to adjust the size of

dispensing lever. A standard dose

the coffee particles. Moving the blades closer together will

of coffee is around 7 grams.

make the coffee particles

If the grinder does not have a

smaller (ie finer grind),

doser, all you need is a 7 gram

making it more difficult for

coffee scoop. Dosers are great

water to pass through the

for busy cafés, one flick and the dose is measured. At home

coffee, conversely moving

you have more time, so when buying a grinder focus on the

the

quality of the grinder blades and the grinder settings.

blades

apart

will

produce a courser grind, allowing water to pass more freely through the coffee.

TAKE THE TIME to look at

the

available

grinding

settings. Some grinders will limit you to how fine or coarse

you

which

can

can be

grind, a

huge

problem when paired with the wrong espresso machine.

For example, we tested a small retail grinder, which

Why is the grind so critical in making espresso?

Whatever method you choose for preparing coffee the idea is the same. Put coffee grounds in contact with very hot (but not boiling) water.

The hot water extracts the oils and the flavour from the coffee grounds. The larger or coarser the particles of coffee, which is referred to as the ‘grind’ the longer it takes to soak out the flavour. So depending on the method you choose, the grind needs to match that method. Here is a guide for you:

has a limited number of settings, none of which

Plunger

Medium to Coarse grind

grind fine enough for a

Filter

Coarse grind

Moka or stovetop pot

Medium grind

Espresso machine

Fine grind

Gaggia Classic or ECM Giotto.

These

espresso

machines need a very fine grind to produce a great espresso. The best grinders have an infinite number of settings and allow you to play to get the taste of your coffee just right. For automatic domestic espresso machines that have an inbuilt grinder, play with the finer settings until you are happy with the taste. Also check your instruction manual or check

To complicate matters a little, there are degrees of fineness and coarseness, so you will need to play around to get the best taste. If your coffee is weak and watery, you will need to adjust your grind to a finer setting. If your coffee tastes too strong or burnt, you will need to adjust your grind to a coarser setting.

with the machine distributor for the recommended setting.

CREMAAUTUMN2004

29

coffee grinderso

grinderso

TIP

Getting your grind right will give you a better coffee!

s e n i h c a m o s s e r esp ESPRESSO MACHINES and the Grind Factor

THE ART AND SCIENCE of making great espresso at home includes the knowledge and skill

in selecting the correct grind for your domestic espresso machine. Other very important factors are the temperature of the water (tip – ensure the filter holder and cups are hot so that the coffee temperature won’t fall), the dose (see above), the tamp (how hard you press down on the coffee) and of course the freshness of your coffee. If you are quite sure that you are following these tips but your espresso still tastes bitter, you probably need to adjust the grind.

NOTE THAT WHEN COFFEE is roasted the beans lose a lot of moisture. Once the roasted

coffee beans come into contact with air the they take in any moisture that is in the air.

High humidity and temperature variations will cause the coffee grinds to swell. This means

6 Grind only what you need.

6 Empty your grinder of beans each time you grind coffee.

6 Store your beans in a clean, airtight container in the fridge.

6 Clean the bean container (called the hopper) with paper towel regularly to prevent a build up of coffee oils.

6 Buy a pastry brush to clean your grinder of coffee grounds.

6 Coffee grounds can be used to make wonderful desserts. Use in tiramisu, add to chocolate cakes and tarts.

your coffee will get coarser and an adjustment needs to be made to compensate for this.

HOW DO I KNOW if I’ve got the grind right?

TO FIND THE GRIND the right size for your machine you will need to experiment. Ensure you

use freshly opened beans and fresh water. Make sure your machine is warmed up and then start to grind your coffee on a fine setting. Measure out two level scoops and place the filter holder in the machine.

Use a small glass and a medicine cup with at least a 40ml capacity. Activate the water and count

o

o

the number of seconds it takes from the time you press the button to the time it takes to reach 30ml – your espresso. Depending on your espresso machine, it should take between 15 and 30 seconds to extract 30ml of coffee. Check the colour of the crema. It should be a toffee-brown colour and at least 3mm thick. Stir the crema to see whether it reforms as you stir it. Use the guide below to see whether you need to adjust the grind.

the crema checklist 6

EXTRACTION TOO FAST = UNDER EXTRACTED

† s i l k c e h c Crema Symptom:

crema is thin and pale; taste is sour, bitter and watery.

Visual cues: water rushes through the coffee 30mls of coffee extracted in less than 20 seconds

6

EXTRACTION TOO SLOW = OVER EXTRACTED Symptom:

crema is very dark brown; taste is burnt and bitter.

Visual cues: water struggles to get through the coffee 30mls of coffee extracted in more than 30 seconds

6

EXTRACTION PERFECT

Crema is golden brown. 30mls of coffee extracted in 20 - 30 seconds - taste is sweet.

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CREMAAUTUMN2004

o

o books

books bookreview

Books Surfing the Menu ~ Ben O’Donoghue & Curtis Stone Two chefs, one journey: a fresh food adventure.

Gone well and truly are the matriarchal days of home cookery books.

First we had a shift from the ‘good little homemaker’ image with the juxtaposition of Nigella Lawson and the Two Fat Ladies, then came along that naked young chappy with the infectious banter. But now a couple of young aussie blokes cooking up a storm as they cruise around our big brown land… Oh Pleesse!

Well, now that I have got that off my chest, I have to admit that they have done a good job of it… complete with comprehensive travel narrative, beautiful photography, showcasing local produce, oh and great recipes as well.

ABC Books RRP $49.95

Janella Purcell’s Elixir How to use food as medicine As traditional medicine is forced to recognize compliment of alternative therapy and importance of good nutrition, many an almanac been published espousing natural remedies and implicit benefits. In principle, a good thing.

the the has the

However, when talking medical issues, it is incumbent upon the author to get her facts right.

Unfortunately this book slips up in this regard - her description of “frozen shoulder” is a case in point; current medical best practice is not surgery to the nerves… if pain persists, see your doctor!

Allen & Unwin RRP $29.95

Vegie Food Unlike the new genre of lifestyle recipe book that aspires to remain on the coffee table after the meal is over, this little gem is recipe after recipe from cover to cover.

As the newest addition to this fab mini-series, vegie food is presented with definite flair; simple, practical and tasty.

Murdoch Books RRP $19.95

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Sacre bleu, the last bastion falls…

cofe news >>

The French may have a history of hating all things American (except of course, US

Coffee boosts male fertility

soldiers fighting to liberate them in

The BBC’s health reporter in the US reports that drinking coffee makes sperm swim faster and

fallen to the stealth of the Starbucks

could improve male fertility. The finding was announced by Brazilian scientists at the American

revolution? In late January, the first

Society for Reproductive Medicine meeting in San Antonio, Texas, where the effects of drugs on

Starbucks in France was opened at 26

male fertility are under review.

Avenue de l’Opera, one of the popular

It appears that coffee can do more than just wake you up - men might also be giving their sperm

tourist and shopping districts in central

a kickstart by drinking just a few cups a day. This, research by a team from Sao Paulo University

Paris. And another opened hot on its heels

suggests, increases sperm motility, which could potentially improve the chances of pregnancy.

just a few days later in the busy business

h a ye e r u s

What about other drugs? It appears that it’s only caffeine that’s good for sperm. Tobacco has no effect on sperm quality but rather, can lead to erectile dysfunction, the same research has found.

And smoking marijuana appears even worse – it seems to be bad for sperm and can reduce fertility.

two world wars) but have they finally

area of La Defense. ‘Paris is the ideal gateway for Starbucks’ entry into the French market’ said Howard Schultz, chairman of Starbucks Coffee Company.

Scientists at Buffalo University found regular smokers had significantly less seminal fluid, and

‘We chose the Opera district as the

a lower sperm count. Instead of making sperm slow down and relax, marijuana makes them

location for our first Paris store as it is a

peak too early: they swim too fast and literally burn out before they reach the egg.

true crossroads of French and inter-

Just another reason for the chaps out there to start their day with a good, strong espresso.

national cultures’ he went on to say.

In the six years since Starbucks first began establishing itself in Europe, only France and Italy have resisted.

Seattle Eatery serves up coffee-flavoured steak Meanwhile, Reuters reports that the city that spawned America’s obsession with espresso coffee is giving locals a popular new variant in their evening meal: coffee-flavoured steak!

Rippe’s, a local waterfront steak and seafood restaurant, began serving filet mignon steaks dusted with Starbucks Corp.’s dark espresso blend a few weeks ago and now has a runaway hit on its hands. “The first night we tried it, about a third of the menu sold was the steak,” said Chad MacKay, whose family runs several steak joints in the Seattle area.

Meanwhile from Italy’s Gaggia comes this little beauty. With simple, classic lines the Cubika features a 2 litre removable water reservoir and 15 Bar pressure. Great value at $349.00. Call Shriro Australia 1800 688 206.

32

MacKay said that the $29 steak, now dubbed the Seattle Signature Steak, was the brainchild of a waiter and a chef.

Despite being rubbed with coffee grinds before grilling, the 12-ounce huh? steak, although a bit crunchy, carries only a subtle whiff of coffee flavouring.

ONLY in the The Indy Star reports that The Bad Ass Coffee Co. won the right to keep its controversial sign blazing over its store in Avon, Indiana. On a 4-1 vote, the local Board of Zoning Appeals upheld the town's decision to issue a permit for the sign, which depicts a donkey and the company name.

After the specialty coffee store opened in December, town resident David Keen challenged the sign based on a section of the zoning ordinance that prohibits signs displaying obscene, indecent or immoral messages.

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beat cafe : BEAT

beat beat beat beat beat

THE OTHER DAY I was asked what kind of music I was

Jenny Queen – Girls Who Cry Need Cake

looking for, to review in the column. Good question I ‘spose,

RATING:(out of 5)

but I was stumped to answer it. “Reggae?” Sure, classic

What was the precise moment that

Jimmy Cliff with a bit of John Butler Trio and the Beautiful

country crossed over into cool?

Girls thrown in. “Jazz?” You bet! Everything from the Necks

Was it Casey Chambers 3 years ago,

to Karlie Bruce. And on it went “speed Metal, tick. R’nB,

or further back in the 80’s with Gram Parsons and Lucinda

tick. New Rock, tick, ska, electronica, hip hop and more.

Williams? Or maybe it was always cool and we weren’t…

Our access to music is unprecedented, music is in every part

This is a strong album of lurking and sinister undertones

of our lives, it is harder sometimes to say what we don’t like.

cloaked with a “pretty-girl” voice. ‘…I’ll bring the pills if

Maybe we are so inured to music we have lost the ability or

you bring the wine...”

resolve to say “I love that, I hate that”.

This is an alt-country or roots-rock album subverted by

EACH OF THE ALBUMS reviewed have a sense of

production from Tony Buchen, better known for cutting edge

*bricolage, all produced outside of classic definitions and

electronica with The Hive. The result is a brilliant debut

genres, all borrowing, sampling and excellent. I love all of

album that allows Queen’s voice and worldwide experience

this * bri·co·lage (noun) something that is made or put

and influences to shine.

together with whatever materials happen to be available.

Gotye – Boardface Deepchild – Whats Going On?

RATING:(out of 5)

RATING:(out of 5)

Gotye, otherwise known as Wally De

A “scene” or community starts with a few

Backer, is a 23 year old producer/

like-minded individuals and builds from

musician/singer from country Victoria.

there. In the Sydney electronica

Live samples on a mini disc, sound-tracks plundered, friends

community there is the most wonderful

recorded and all mixed at home on a PC to produce a

swapping of talents and gear, energy and enthusiasm.

stunning debut album. The album reflects the diversity of his

All fuelled by community radio and the rare understanding

record collection and influences, from noirish soundtracks to

venue. Rick Bull, aka Deepchild, is one of those who holds

80’s Depeche Mode and Roxy Music.

the scene together, sitting in with other collectives, appearing on compilations and hosting shows like Electoplastique and Clan Analogue on community radio.

Ubin – StarLo RATING:(out of 5)

This album includes live instrumental improvisations, cutting-

Sydney due Jo Lamont and Ollie Chang

edge found-sound montages and strongly articulated vocals in

released their first album in 2000 to wide

a mix that acknowledges a rich musical history and an evolving

critical acclaim. Star-Lo takes them even

sonic future. His collaboration with brother Andy B for the

further with meticulous production and

title track “what’s goin on” references 70’s soul as well as the

great songs. A broad range of references from Massive Attack

Marvin Gaye classic. This is an accomplished and polished

to Radiohead with sublime vocalists and catchy hooks make

album for a producer whose karma is coming back to him.

this an album of beautifully linked singles.

Café Beat. Proudly brought to you by CREMAAUTUMN2004

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Roas n Ground CELEBRATING Coffee

Melbourne Style

It was all hissing and steaming as Melbournians celebrated their love affair with the bean on March 28th at Celebrate the Bean’s new venue on the Yarra Banks at Federation Square. Now in its third year, the Celebrate the Bean Coffee Festival was a great success, drawing over 40,000 visitors to see and taste the wares of specialist coffee companies and domestic espresso machine suppliers.

Represented amongst the local boutique roasters were Gravity and Eureka along with relative newcomer Map and out-of-state Toby’s Estate Coffee. Among the larger coffee companies present were Grinders, Robert Timms, Piazza d’Oro and Segafredo.

Showcasing some of the best coffee made by Melbourne’s best baristas, was the barista competition (see box below) sponsored by Café Biz and organised by the Coffee Academy and Café Learning.

There were also free coffee workshops presented by the William Angliss Coffee Academy and live music by Jadida and Kenny Lopez & Havana, while Sunbeam, Breville, De Longhi, Gaggia, Krups were among the major domestic espresso machine companies present.

Melbourne Barista Competition The battle scene was set on a clear Sunday morning.

The best 26 baristas from around Melbourne fought it out in heats during the week at the “Coffee Academy” and only 12 remained in the finals. The 1st & 2nd prize-getters were to be bestowed with the honour of competing for the Australian title.

Weather conditions supported flying a kite rather than extracting great espresso – the sun beat down and the wind blew hard onto the baristas and their equipment.

The competitors also had to endure nerves and pressure applied by the judges watching their every move. Contestants were judged on 4 areas – Technical, Presentation, Taste and Personality and were asked to extract 4 espressos, 4 cappuccinos and 4 signature drinks (their own non-alcoholic creation based on the overall taste of espresso). Judges included Paul Bassett - the current World Barista Champion, Justin Metcalfe of Café Learning in Melbourne and master roaster from Sydney, Toby Smith.

The final top three were – 1. David Makin – Helvetica 2. Ben Boyle – Gust Café 3. Frank Greco – Helvetica The winners will receive a trip to Sydney to compete in the National finals in May, with the Australian Champion set to take on the world in Trieste, Italy on the 18-20th of June 2004. Congratulations to all the baristas and David, in particular. To enquire about this event or any future Barista Competitions contact Justin Metcalf at Café Learning – justinm@cafelearning.com.au This year’s Australian Barista Competition, organized by AASCA and sponsored by La Marzocco, will take place at the Hospitality LIVE trade fair in Sydney on the 4th and 5th May. Heats will take place in Sydney between April 26th and 3rd May. For more information email: barista@aasca.com.

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CREMAAUTUMN2004

First ever RAS Gold Espresso Award!

Melbourne’s up-and-coming Crivelli coffee has won the first ever Gold for the espresso category at the Coffee Competition at Sydney’s prestigious Royal Fine Food Show. This year’s award marks three consecutive golds for Crivelli – in the Cappuccino category in 2002 and 2003 and now the Gold for Espresso in 2004.

Other winners in the coffee category of this year’s awards, were regional NSW roaster Brooklet Blue and Coffex with Golds in the Plunger category, and Sydney’s Bay Coffee Roasters which collected a Silver in Plunger, a Silver in the Espresso category, and a third Silver in Single Origin Plunger. CONGRATULATIONS!

Coffee growing struggling in its ancestral home Most stories of the origins of coffee centre around a goatherd in Ethiopia, who noticed his goats were exceptionally frisky after eating the berries from a particular plant, which we now recognize as coffee cherries. However, the disparity between coffee prices in developed countries, and what farmers are paid for their coffee crop in developing nations, is starting to bite even harder in the Horn of Africa.

The BBC reports that many farmers in the village of Deder, not far from the Somali border, have taken to growing khat, an amphetamine-like stimulant, that is rapidly taking over. Khat is easier to grow, less prone to pests and can be harvested up to three times a year. Even more importantly, it brings in around three times the income of coffee.

The slide in coffee prices started several years ago when Brazil, the world's biggest coffee exporter, greatly stepped up production, mainly of cheaper grade coffee. It was followed by Vietnam, now the world’s second-largest producer of coffee, due to government incentives there to develop a potentially lucrative new export crop. The result was a glut of coffee that caused prices to nose dive.

It is estimated that Ethiopia has lost around $830 million in export earnings over the last five years due to the falling price of coffee on the global markets. A crushing blow for an impoverished country that is the third poorest in the world.

The charity Oxfam has criticized the big coffee companies (particularly Kraft, Procter & Gamble Nestle, Sara Lee) and wants big firms to agree to a list of demands: To buy fair trade coffee, (where a minimum price is guaranteed to farmers and no middle man exists to reduce their profits), to only trade in coffee that meets International Coffee Organisation standards and to reduce the current coffee surplus by destroying five million bags. Such a commitment, Oxfam claims, could help up to 25 million coffee farmers worldwide. None of these big coffee companies have yet given any indication that they are prepared to follow all, or in some cases, any of these rules.

Detpak redefines the concept of a Premium Hot Cup Leading Australian packaging supplier Detpak has announced the release of a premium new hot cup as part of their popular Ripple-Wrap range.

Called the Hi-Shine™, it’s a super premium paperbased take away cup which is perfect for hi-gloss café branding.

For more information, contact Detpak on 1300 363 380 or visit www.detpak.com CREMAAUTUMN2004

37

Caƒé Scene OVEN It may seem a far cry from Ecabar in Sydney’s inner-city Darlinghurst to suburban Cremorne, but Dieter Steinbusch has made an effortless transition. Originally a boat builder, Dieter got his hospitality experience in Terence Conran’s Blueprint Café at the Design Museum in London in the early ‘90’s before returning from his O.E. to Australia.

After setting up the trendy Ecabar (which he owned for five years) in early 1997, he sold out in 2002 and spent a couple of years building a house, until the hospitality bug bit again. Operating out of a converted garage, Oven adds an inner city urban feel to the otherwise suburban Cremorne café scene. Open for breakfast and lunch from 7.00-5.00pm.

Oven OVEN 89 PARRAWEEN ST, CREMORNE NSW 2090 TEL: 9908 3536

CAFÉ

AU GO GO Richard Bradbury was working as a consultant in such edifying disciplines as time management, project man-agement and customer service training when he decided it was time to get more ‘hands-on’ in life.

Taking advantage of previous hospitality experience, he took over a location in East St Kilda and together with Adam Pearson (ex-Jungle Café in Port Melbourne) and Judith Hamann, previously chief coffee maker and manager at Cafe Vamp they opened Café Au Go Go. They have a great espresso bar and according to Richard, a vision to produce ‘nourishing foods for body, soul and spirit’, using only organic fruit and vegetables.

CAFÉ AU GO GO 134 CARLISLE ST, ST KILDA, VIC 3182 TEL: (03) 9537 1088

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CREMAAUTUMN2004

GABRIELS

ON SWANSON

Originally from Nepal, Nagendra Gautam (‘Naggy’ to his friends) has made himself very much at home in Sydney’s Alexandria. He originally started at Gabriel’s on Swanson in the late ‘90s under iconic owner Ray Gabriel, while also completing his chef’s course at the local TAFE. Several owners since, Naggy’s now in charge and determined to present a fresh face to the previously comfy Gabriel’s.

First step was to improve the coffee service to complement an already busy kitchen.

Recently refurbished, Gabriel’s is extremely popular with those ‘in the know’ and a great place for brunch.

GABRIELS ON SWANSON 110 SWANSON STREET, ALEXANDRIA, NSW 2015 TEL: (02) 9565 4171

CREMAAUTUMN2004

au go go

Gabriels

39

industry pro0le:

Roaser DAN FITZSIMMONS Dan may not seem like the obvious candidate to be a coffee-roaster – coming as he did to Australia during a 20-year career in the computer industry. However, his first job was with Abacus computers in Seattle, coincidentally also the home to the nascent coffee revival beginning in America. For it was here – the home of Starbucks and a number of other high profile American coffee companies, that espresso coffee first began to take off in the United States.

Dan started as a systems analyst in technical support with Abacus, before moving on to sales with Prime Computers. But it was with Abacus in the late 70’s when one of the projects he was briefed on was an inventory job for the then almost unheard of, Starbucks Coffee.

In 1983, he and his wife moved to Canberra with Prime, but he had by then caught the bug; coffee was in his system. In the late 1980’s he and Jo backpacked around Europe, determined to understand more about coffee and the way it was roasted, marketed and consumed overseas.

After returning to Australia in the early 90’s, he went back to the computer industry, at the same time keeping an eye out for an opportunity to begin in the coffee business.

In 1992 the opportunity arose, when he and Jo were offered the lease on a small shop in Arundel St, near Sydney University in Glebe.

They started out with a single-group espresso machine and a 4 kilogram roaster of a type at that time virtually unheard of in Australia.

It was called a ‘fluidized bed’ roaster (developed by an engineer in the US) and the principle was that instead of being roasted in a rotating drum, the beans were roasted on a bed of hot air, ensuring consistency of roasting on the individual beans. They called the business the ‘Glebe Coffee Roaster’.

The Glebe shop quickly moved up to a 3group espresso machine and 1993 saw a

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second café opened – this time in Surry Hills.

Increasing coffee sales demanded a larger roaster, so armed with a new 15 kg version of the original Sivitz roaster, Dan moved his expanding wholesale business (now simply called ‘The Coffee Roaster’) to Sydney’s up-and-coming Green Square. Convinced of the benefits of fluidized bed, or what he has come to call ‘airflow’ roasting, Dan has been working with an engineer for several years on his own design.

This has resulted in three custom-built roasters which are in operation on locations on the Gold Coast, and at the Green Square roastery.

The culmination of this experimentation sees The Coffee Roaster in the finishing stages of production of its own ‘airflow’ roaster – based on the fluidized bed principles – to be called the ‘Chinook’, the name of the warm wind that heats the Rocky Mountains after an intense cold spell.

The units have a variable capacity of 10-20 kg, are made of food grade stainless steel and with the computer system developed by Dan and his engineer, support roasting in an automated batch process. This means that the operator simply has to load the green beans and set the roast cycle, while the roaster takes the batch to completion.

According to Dan, it’s all about consistency.

‘Many boutique coffee roasters find it difficult to maintain quality and consistency. Typically, as their businesses have grown, they have had to give up roasting and involve other people in the process, leading to inconsistent results’ he says.

Dan already has several orders, including one from overseas.

For more information, contact Dan Fitzsimmons Tel: 1800 806 200 e-mail: Dan@coffee.com.au CREMAAUTUMN2004

industry Coffee Industry website

Checkout Crema Magazine’s new website: Café scene!

Café Scene is our site for those in the industry, including situations vacant.

We’ll be continuously updating jobs for chefs, waiters/waitresses, duty managers and of course baristas.

It’ll also have cafés for sale and for rent…

THE site for classified listings for those in the industry – check it out now:

< www.cafescene.com.au >

CREMAAUTUMN2004

41

FAIR TRADE UPDATE! Just out of the US - the Chicago Business magazine reports that Sara Lee Corp (parent company of Douwe Egberts) has said its beverage division has agreed to purchase some coffee grown using ‘certified sustainable methods’ according to Utz Kapeh – a dutch-based nonprofit group that promotes responsible production of coffee, including fair trade.

Sara Lee, the No. 3 worldwide buyer of green coffee beans, behind Kraft Foods Inc. and Nestlé SA, said that it intends to increase the amount of certified coffee it purchases in future years. Although the initial amount is relatively small, this make Sara Lee the first major U.S.-based coffee company to sign on with the Utz Kapeh Foundation.

BACK ISSUES

Would you like to catch up on some of your favourite coffee subjects?

Back issues of Crema are available for $10 per issue including p&p (within Australia).

We can send a set of all the issues shown here for $30.00 incl. p&p. Simply email info@cremamagazine.com.au with your credit card details, specifying which issues you require. Orders can also be mailed in with a cheque, payable to Cafécommunications.

Autumn 2003 History of the Espresso Machine – Part III Types of Coffee – summary of the main espresso-based drinks; also the basics of cupping/coffee-tasting. Espresso training – our rundown of some of the main coffeetraining schools in Sydney and Melbourne.

Winter 2003 Interview: Mary Kostakidis.

Domestic Espresso Machine Review – Part I (machines < $1,000) Travel, wine and new espresso news.

Spring 2003 Special feature: Cafes of Rome.

Domestic Espresso Machine Review – Part II (machines > $1,000) Wine: Pinot Noir Fair Trade coffee

Summer 2003/2004 Special feature: Cafes of Venice.

Seven steps to the perfect home espresso Behold: The Barossa!

There are also further back issues available – for enquiries, please email: info@cremamagazine.com.au Crema™ magazine is available in newsagents in Sydney and Melbourne.

We are available by subscription for areas outside these cities at a cost of $25 for four issues.

For a subscription request, please email info@cremamagazine.com.au

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Now sparkling in fine restaurants, cafes and bars. mountfranklinwater.com.au