Geared Up by Agilysis

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Security Training t

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www.urbanlimits.org

CONTENTS Welcome Why Cycle Going Further Bike Options Security Getting the Right Fit Ready to Ride Your Place on the Road Junctions Cycle Lanes and Signs Choosing Routes Maintenance Feature Puncture Repair Training and Coaching

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Welcome Cycling is a great way to travel; it is cheap, reliable and convenient. It gives you the freedom to get around on your own, as well as benefiting your health and the environment; that is why thousands are turning back to the bike right now. Geared-Up is packed full of information and advice to help you get the most out of cycling with articles on maintenance, security, road positioning and route planning, there is something for everyone. So whether you are a complete newbie, or an experienced and confident cyclist hopefully there is something in Geared-Up that helps you. Geared up is produced by ‘Safer Roads’ to support cyclists as part of the Urban Limits campaign. We would like to thank the team at West Berkshire council for contributing much of the content to this publication. facebook.com/urbanlimits

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Why Cycle Cycling can do amazing things for you. Research has shown that the effects of exercise from cycling can help to improve your brain power, reduce frequency of ill health, make you sleep more deeply and even live longer! Whilst some worry about safety the health benefits of cycling outweigh the risks by about 20:1. If that list of benefits was not enough to make you think about getting going on the bike (or keeping it up if you have just started) then there is the impact for the planet as well. It takes 20 times as much material and energy to build a car than to make your bike; and when you cycle you are creating zero pollution. So whatever your reason for getting the bike out, whether it is daily travel, social reasons or keeping fit, you have made a great choice - just keep on going.

Going Further If the cycling bug has really caught hold, then there are plenty of organisations that will help you to go further. You could choose to cycle as part of a club registered with British Cycling (www.britishcycling.org.uk/clubs), many of whom have groups for different ages and abilities. There is also the option of joining in with organised rides that are not part of a club set-up such as SkyRides (see www.goskyride.com). The other big membership organisation for cyclists is CTC (find them at www.ctc.org.uk).

Bike Options

The best bike for you will vary to some extent according to the type of riding that you are intending to do.

Mountain Bike - if you are going to spend a good deal of time on off-road paths and rough terrain, then this is likely to be a good choice for you. Rugged tyres will give you traction, and the option of suspension will add to your comfort. Road Bike - light and fast, road bikes are great if you are going to stick to riding on tarmac. Getting a good fit on a road bike is important or the riding position can become uncomfortable. Hybrid - somewhere in between is a hybrid. A more upright and comfortable riding position balanced off by lighter frames and less traction from slicker tyres. Single speed - straightforward and hassle free with no gears to maintain, a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;fixieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; can be a stylish alternative, but gets pretty hard work if you have a lot of hills to ride. Dutch Bikes - heavy but durable, the ultimate in low maintenance with enclosed chains, gears and brakes. Integrated luggage racks, locks and lights making them great for commuting.

Security

When you have bike it is vital to ensure that it is kept secure; this is key to preventing theft or damage. Different options are available depending on where you are going to be keeping it, and think about the security of removable items such as lights, wheels & saddles.

At Home

If possible keep it indoors, in either a locked garage or shed. Keep your bike secured to something heavy or immovable.

In Town

Seek out bike specific parking locations set-up by the local council. These will be in well-sighted locations with bars to lock on to. Use something like a good quality D-Lock

work or school

If you cycle to work or school and there is no secure parking, ask whether this can be provided, or find out if there are suitable places nearby to store your bike. Page 3

Getting the Right Fit

READY TO Ride

It is essential that your bike is the right size for you. Bikes that are too small or too large not only make cycling difficult, but can also be dangerous. To check your saddle is at the right height sit on the saddle with the ball of your foot on the pedal. Make sure the pedal is at its lowest point and drop your heel. Your leg should be almost straight. Most seat posts have a safety mark near the bottom of the seatpost. This mark must be hidden inside the frame, otherwise it is not safe, and could move as you cycle. The handlebars should be roughly in line with the saddle and you should be able to reach the brakes easily. Correct pedalling makes cycling safer and less tiring. You should always sit on your saddle when pedalling, and use the ball of your foot to push the pedals. When you pedal your leg should be straight without locking your knee. This means that you use more of the muscles in your foot and ankle, and will mean that you don’t get tired as quickly. You need to check your bike fits regularly while you are still growing, and make adjustments to the saddle and handlebar height as necessary. Some changes may feel odd when you first get back on your bike and it may take a couple of weeks to get used to the new cycling position.

Clothing - you do not need any special clothing to ride a bike, but it can make you safer, more visible and more comfortable if riding in the wet or when it is very busy.

Gloves

-your hands are vulnerable, especially in cold weather, and can quickly become unresponsive if not protected by gloves. Gloves will also protect your hands if you fall off your bike!

Hi visibility clothing - wearing hi-vis stuff when cycling makes it easier for you

to be seen by car drivers. Wear bright clothes with fluorescent and reflective strips or accessories. Fluorescent only helps you to be seen during the day, reflective strips will help you to be seen at night as well.

Bell -having a bell on your bike, or calling out ‘excuse me’ will allow you to warn

pedestrians and other cyclists you are there. Do not leave the warning to the last moment, or you can frighten people rather than helping.

Lights and Reflectors – by law your bike must have a rear (red) reflector and

pedal reflectors (usually orange); it is also advisable to have a front (white) reflector and consider spoke reflectors as these make you more visible from the side. When riding at night you must use lights which conform to the relevant standard; flashing lights can be used as long as they comply. If The you cycle at night without lights you run the risk of being Highway fined £30 for each missing light. More importantly, Code recommends you might not be seen by other road users. wearing a helmet while It is also advisable not to wear a personal cycling to reduce the risk of stereo or use a mobile phone injury if you are involved in an whilst cycling, as these can be a accident. When buying a helmet distraction and will prevent make sure that it is the right size and you hearing approaching that it fits you correctly with good system traffic. for all round adjustment. When you shake

HE LM ET S

your head the helmet should not move. It should also have a CE mark and meet international safety standards; usually be found on a sticker located inside the helmet. Buying from a reputable retailer helps to ensure quality and replacing your helmet every three years or if it is dropped, damaged will help ensure your safety.

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Low Gears (e.g. 1st) mean that the pedals are easy to push and the bike moves slowly. Each time the pedals go round the bike travels a short distance. Low gears are useful for going uphill or when you are tired. High Gears mean that it takes more force to move the pedals. Each time the pedals go round the bike travels further. High gears allow you to keep pedalling when the bike is moving fast, such as going downhill.

GEARS

INDICATING or SIGNALLING

If your bike has gears make sure you know how to use them. Selecting the correct gear for the conditions will make cycling easier.

Cars have indicators to tell other road users where they are planning to go; bikes do not, so you need to indicate yourself. Clear hand signals are important to let other road users know what you are planning to do next.

Your Place On the Road

To signal first you need to check it is safe to do so. To check what is coming behind you look over your right shoulder, if there is nothing coming (in either direction), you do not need to signal before turning. If there is something behind you make sure it is safe and hold your arm out straight to indicate the direction you wish to turn (left arm to turn left, right arm to turn right).

Don't ride too close to the kerb. This tempts other road users to overtake you when there isn't space. Riding approximately 60cm from the kerb means that traffic behind you will need to slow down and steer around you to overtake, as well as making you more visible and avoiding any obstruction (such as drain covers) at the edge of the road .

STARTING OFF Wheel your bike to the left hand side of the road, near the kerb (if there is one.) Sit on your bike, left foot on the ground, right foot on the pedal in the two oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock position ready to push down. Look around to see that it is safe to set off. Look behind you (over your right shoulder)! When it is clear, push down on the pedal and set off.

Overtaking Look around to see if it is safe to overtake the obstruction. If it is necessary, give a right signal to indicate you intend to overtake and gradually move out around the obstruction. If it is not safe slow down and stop behind the obstruction. Prepare to set off, look behind to check it is safe and move out around the obstruction, making sure that you give enough space to clear the obstruction and allowing for car doors which may be opened unexpectedly. Make sure that you give enough space to clear the obstacle (about 60cm) but try not to cross the middle of the road. If there are several cars parked along one stretch of road, ride past them in a straight line, do not zig-zag in and out. As soon as you have cleared the obstruction, and it is safe to do so, return to the correct riding position.

STOPPING When coming to a stop make sure you check behind you that it is safe to do so. Slow the bike down, in plenty of time, by pulling the brakes. Do not try to stop the bike with your feet, as this can cause you to lose control and fall off! In an emergency you need to be able to stop quickly without skidding or losing control.

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Junctions Watch out for other road users who may not be paying attention to you, and for people crossing the road. Be prepared to stop and give way to them. Do not be tempted to cut corners, and continue cycling in the correct position.

TURNING LEFT Take up a position fairly wide from the kerb as this will give you a better view of the road you are turning into, as well as stopping other people trying to overtake you on the corner. Look behind you. If it is safe, indicate that you intend to turn left. Return your hand to the handlebar and slow down, keep looking for traffic. When it is safe, turn left keeping the correct distance from the kerb. If turning from a minor road to a major road you may need to stop to look out for traffic on the main road. Keep a look out for other road users who may not give you all the space you need when turning a corner.

Crossroads Treat left and right turns at a crossroads as if it was a ‘T’-junction. When going straight ahead position yourself in the centre of the lane and continue straight on when it is safe to do so (there is no official straight ahead signal, so your road position is very important.)

ROUNDABOUTS When entering a roundabout you must give way to the right. Avoid the outer edges of a roundabout where traffic entering may not see you. Signalling will help protect your space as you go round. On larger roundabouts you should use the correct lanes for turning left or right. When going straight on use whichever lane you feel more comfortable with. When turning right at a roundabout it is common for experienced cyclists to cycle around the middle of the roundabout until they approach their exit, when they will signal and move over to take the exit. It is recommended to ride in the centre of the lanes as you are going round the roundabout to stop other vehicles trying to overtake you, but this should only be done if you are a confident cyclist!

Often Crossroads are traffic light controlled, which can make turning at these junctions easier. Cyclists must obey traffic lights.

TURNING RIGHT Look behind you. If it is safe indicate that you intend to turn right. Take a last look behind and move gradually across to the centre of the road (you can keep signalling to alert drivers to what you are doing.) Return your hand to the handlebar and slow down. Stop and get ready to move off. Look around traffic from all directions, when it is safe, cycle and turn right. However tempting, don’t cut the corner. Less experienced cyclists may prefer to dismount and walk rather than ride around the junction.

Filtering High-sided vehicles such as lorries have limited ability to see down their sides, so they can easily miss a cyclist that is close to them. This means they might turn across the cyclist without even knowing they were there. It is therefore advisable never to undertake such a vehicle. Page 9

Cycle Lanes and Signs Cycle lanes can be on road or off road and are usually marked by white cycle logos painted within the lane.

ON ROAD CYCLE LANES There are 2 types of on road cycle lanes. Advisory cycle lanes, are marked with a broken white line, that warn drivers that there may be cyclists present. Mandatory cycle lanes are marked by a solid white line. Motor vehicles are not allowed to drive in a mandatory cycle lane. Some cycle lanes are also surfaced in a different colour to help them stand out. Sometimes cyclists are allowed to cycle in a bus lane if a bike symbol is shown alongside the bus lane sign or cycle symbol marking in a bus lane.

OFF ROAD CYCLE PATHS Off road cycle paths allow cyclists to cycle on the pavement. There are 2 types of off road cycle paths, segregated cycle paths are marked by a continuous solid white line down the middle of the pavement. Cyclists use one side (marked with a bike symbol), and pedestrians the other (often marked with a pedestrian symbol). Combined or shared paths allow cyclists and pedestrians to use the same pavement. Shared paths have no line separating cyclists and pedestrians, so you need to take extra care! Unless a pavement is marked as a cycle path you must not cycle on it.

BRIDLEWAYS AND BYWAYS Cyclists are allowed to use bridleways, by-ways and restricted by-ways. These are marked with green arrow signs.

Advanced Stop Lines These allow cyclists to stop ahead of the traffic at traffic lights, giving the cyclists a head start when the traffic light changes.

One of the things that every cyclist realises pretty quickly is that the preferred route on the bike is not necessarily the same way that you would go in the car. Selecting roads which are quieter or which avoid very large and complex junctions will help to take the stress out of your journey for starters and going by bike opens up all sorts of opportunities to follow routes that are more scenic and green. •

When you are selecting a route here are some things that will help:

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Check out signed cycle routes (www.urbanlimits.org/routes/)

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Identify routes with segregated cycle ways

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Look for roads that are quieter and wider

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Choose roads with slower speed limits (ideally 20mph & 30mph)

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If your route crosses major arterial roads look for Toucan crossings or other safe places to cross

TOUCAN CROSSINGS

Ch Ro oos ut ing es

A toucan crossing allows cyclists and pedestrians to cross the road at the same time. They look similar to pelican crossings except that they have a ‘green bike’ as well as a ‘green man’. You can use a toucan crossing as a cyclist in the way in which you would use a pelican crossing as a pedestrian; only cross when the ‘green bike’ is shown.

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Brakes

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With regular use brake blocks will need replacing. If the brakes are pulled tight, but still do not work to slow or stop the wheel very well, you probably need to replace the brake blocks. First release the brakes (see ‘puncture repair’ on the next page) then you will need to release the existing brakes blocks with a hex key or small spanner. Take note of the order of washers and nuts before you take it all apart this will make it easier to fix the new blocks securely. Your brakes are critical to your safety, so if you have a more complex setup such as disc brakes, or if you are at all unsure, please seek advice from your local bike shop.

Tyres Your tyres will probably need to be pumped up at least once a month. The correct tyre pressure for your tyres will be written on the tyre rim. You can test the pressure of your tyre with a pressure gauge. Having your tyres at the correct pressure will mean cycling is easier and that you are less likely to suffer from punctures.

Lubricating the Chain Keeping the chain well lubricated will protect the bike from excessive wear. Lubricant should really only be applied to a clean chain, and you might benefit from using a degreaser. Coat the whole chain, with a light lube spinning the cranks to force the lube into the links; that’s where lube is most useful. Wipe excess lube away with a rag. Page 13

To repair a puncture you will normally need to remove the wheel from the bike.

Release the brakes. V-brakes are released by pressing the top of the two brake arms together (1) and disengaging the cable, allowing the arms to spring apart. Side-pull brakes often have switches that release the brake blocks from the wheel, or you may have to remove one of the brake blocks with an Allen key.

PUNCTURE REPAIR

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Remove the wheel. If you have quick-release skewers, you simply open the quick-release lever, unscrew a couple of turns, and take the wheel off. If you don’t have quick release wheels you will need the right sized spanner to loosen the axle nuts, but otherwise the process is the same. If you are removing the rear wheel, make sure the chain is on the smallest outside cog (in top gear), making it easier to disengage from the chain.

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4 Check to see if you can see where the tyre has been damaged. If it is obvious remember where the puncture is. Using two tyre levers (2), carefully pull the tyre from the rim with one then 10-15 cm further along insert the next lever and pull that section off too. It will then be a simple case of pulling the bead off in either direction taking care not to rip the tyre or the delicate inner tube. Take off the threaded collar nut and push the valve through then remove the inner tube. Check the tyre (3) to see if the puncture was caused by a sharp object and if you find one remove it. There are two types of punctures, one caused by a sharp object and the other ‘pinch’ puncture caused by hitting a bump such as a kerbstone. If you keep your tyres inflated at the right pressure you can avoid these latter types of puncture.

Once you have found the hole (4) in the inner tube (you may need to submerge a semi-inflated tube to see where the air is escaping) clean and roughen the tube using a small piece of sandpaper or a file (5). Put a dab of rubber solution (6) on the hole, and gently spread it in a small circular area around the hole. Wait for the solution to dry, then apply the patch (7) ensuring that there are no air bubbles. When the patch is secure (8), grate some chalk on the area to prevent the inner tube sticking to the tyre when it is replaced.

Before replacing the tube check the tyre inside and out ensuring that all sharp objects have been removed and put a small amount of air into the tube.

Put the tube back inside the tyre which should still be hooked onto one side of the rim, then push the other side of the tyre on (9). Do this so the last section is at the valve making it easier for the tyre to grip into the hooks on the inside of the rim. Go as far as you can with your hands then simply push the tyre back on using your tyre lever (10). Inflate the tyre (11) to around 20 PSI (1.4 Bar), check the tyre is seated correctly to ensure the inner tube isn’t pinched. Once you are happy, pump it all the way up to the manufacture specified pressure (12) and re-attach the nut and dust cap.

Once you’ve completed your Level 1 you will be able to: Fit your own helmet Carry out a simple bike check Get on your bike, start cycling, then stop and get off Ride your bike using the gears Make your bike go where you want it to, including moving around objects safely Control the bike with one hand Stop quickly if you need to Look all around you when you’re riding, without wobbling

Level 2 Bikeability takes place on road, giving you a real cycling experience. You will be taught how to deal with traffic on short local journeys such as cycling to the shops. You will usually be trained in groups of 3-12, although individual training may be available in your area.

Level 2

Level 1

Training and Coaching

During Level 1 training, you learn to control and master your bike. The training takes place away from traffic – usually in a playground or closed car park. Training is usually in groups of 3-12, although individual training may be available in your area.

Once you’ve completed your Level 2 you will be able to: Start and finish a journey by road, including passing parked or slower moving vehicles and side roads Identify and react to hazards Signal your intentions to others Use junctions, including turning left and right into major and minor roads Decide whether a cycle lane will help your journey Use the Highway Code, particularly understanding road signs

Level 3

When you reach Level 3 standard you will be able to deal with more challenging roads and traffic situations. Level 3 training, is suitable for adults or secondary school children, and is delivered one-to-one or in groups of up to 3; so can be tailored to your individual training needs. Level 3 training covers dealing with hazards, making ‘on-the-move’ risk assessments and planning routes for safer cycling. Once you’ve completed your Bikeability Level 3 you’ll be able to cycle almost anywhere. Whether you are just starting out, returning to the bike or a keen and regular cyclist, most of us would benefit from some extra coaching to improve our confidence, especially when it comes to busy and complex roads. It may be that you would like to run through your regular commute with a qualified instructor, tackle a group training session for the family, a group of friends or at your workplace with colleagues. Whatever your needs there will be a training or coaching option that could work for you. If you are a complete beginner, don’t worry, instructors can help you get your balance and learn to control your bike; with sessions that will be in a traffic free space. There are also options for confident and experienced cyclists to tackle roads with more traffic or more complex road layouts.

FACTBOX Did you know: There is a network of cycle trainers all of whom are working to a set of established national standards? The national training standards are reflected in the Bikeability training levels above and you can locate a training by visiting www.dft.gov.uk/bikeability Page 17