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Rocking out
July 2015
Climbing walls to clamber up
Daddy cool
Meet two awesome stay-at-home dads
grill Grill baby for the Barbecue restos whole family
Kids’ bedrooms Everything you need to know from
PLUS!
roof ysyour tot Watearrp for rainy da Great ge
AZ to
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22
Take that bedroom from blah to brilliant
Peekaboo! 6
CONTENTS
What’s on Dates for your diary.
10
News What’s happening on the parent scene.
14
Rainy day essentials Our wet weather gear will keep you dry.
Family matters 18
Cover by Kelvin Lau
Alpha papa Life as a stay-at-home dad.
22
Bedrooms A to Z Get those kid’s rooms ship-shape with our guide.
Really useful 50
Eve Roth Lindsay from Savvy Style tells us how she splurges and saves.
School’s In 28
Money & Me
Hong Kong International School We take a tour of Hong Kong’s American school.
32
Principal’s office An intimate chat with HKIS head Alan Runge.
Regulars 2
Editor’s letter
Stuff to do
12
Giveaways
34
A boulder approach
16
The Mummy
Scale the walls at these rockcliming classes.
52
Marketplace
Big day out
56
The Daddy
38
14
Typhoon? Typhooey!
Take a walk through lovely Lamma.
40
Travel Did you know Sri Lanka has a safari park? Neither did we.
Let’s eat 44
34 Money for old rope
Chill out The coolest ice cream parlours in town.
46
Meat your maker The best barbecue feasts from around the world.
40 Oh, deer
44
Freeze! It’s lolly season
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Edito
r’s p
ick
Editorial
editorial@fastmedia.com.hk Editor Adele Brunner Senior Consultant Editor Jane Steer Contributing Editor Sarah Fung
It’s officially typhoon season, which means we’re going to need a sturdy umbrella. This Blunt umbrella (p.14) can withstand Hong Kong’s wildest weather.
Staff Writer Callum Wiggins Acting Digital Editor Annie Wong Contributor Shreena Patel
Design
design@fastmedia.com.hk Art Director Kelvin Lau Senior Graphic Designer Jack Yip Graphic Designer Setareh Parvin
Sales & Marketing
ads@fastmedia.com.hk Head of Sales & Marketing Karman So
Business Development Manager Tristan Watkins
Sales Manager Oliver Simons
Sales & Marketing Executive Alastair Grigg
Sales & Marketing Executive John Lee
Accounts Manager Connie Lam connie@fastmedia.com.hk
Office Security Cat the dog
Publisher Tom Hilditch tom@fastmedia.com.hk
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E
ven if you’re not going away this summer, hopefully your pace of life will have slowed down after the usual end of school year madness. With the demands of school and extra-curricular activities taken out of the equation, life becomes somewhat less frenetic. You can relax rules and bedtimes, water down your own social life and, especially if you have children over six, enjoy something approximating proper R&R. And with less on your plate it’s a great time to focus on your home. There’s nothing more satisfying than clearing out clutter and nowhere is the battleground more intense than in children’s bedrooms. A breeding ground for mess, it’s all too easy to shove everything into the back the wardrobe and forget about it - only to have it come back and bite you when you reach into said wardrobe in a hurry and have to fight your way through mountains of “must-keep” paintings and soft toys to get to whatever you need. Trust me, I’ve been there on a regular basis. Who hasn’t despaired at drawers filled with tiny bits and pieces unrelated to any game your children possess, tangled headphone cords, gazillions of loose Match Attax doubles and random Lego parts (if you have boys), beads, erasers and hair accessories (if you have girls)? As for the bane of every parent’s life - sand art in small glass jars - the inventor should be shot. With this in mind, we have dedicated this issue to the home and to children’s rooms in particular, offering tips and suggestions on everything from tidying them up and keeping them organised to decorating and accessorising them so they look cool in your eyes as well as your offspring’s. We also embrace the summer time, with ideas for barbecue feasts in Table for Four and the most delicious ice creams in town in What’s In Season, but get real about July in Hong Kong, with a round-up of wet-weather gear (Must Have, page XX). Take a lazy trip to Lamma as suggested in Big Day Out or if you’re feeling more adventurous, head to Sri Lanka for a kid-friendly safari in the Yala National Park. So, have a wonderful summer and good luck with getting organised before the onslaught of August.
If you’re all hot and bothered this summer, cool off with an icy treat. I’ve got my eye on this gelato cup (p.44).
Contributors Arshia Bhatia Carolynne Dear Nigel Griffiths Oscar Webster Pauline Cheung Simon Parry Contact us Admin: 3568 3722 Editorial: 2776 2773 Advertising: 2776 2772
Published by Fast Media Ltd LG1 Kai Wong Commercial Building, 222 Queens Road Central, Hong Kong
Printer Apex Print, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong
www.fastmedia .com . h k Expat Parent is published by Fast Media Limited. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Expat Parent cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or publishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
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PEEKABOO!
need this month. u yo f uf st d an s w ne s, te da l Essentia
Prints charming If you’re feeling jealous of all the lovely goodies we have in our kids’ bedroom feature (p.22), fret not: we have just the thing to help brighten up your home. This gorgeous Hong Kong print from Louise Hill Design will turn any drab wall into a talking point. Louise Hill has several works that incorporate iconic Hong Kong images, from Mister Softee vans to neon street signs. They make a lovely gift for someone leaving Hong Kong; prices start at $2,600 for a small, unframed canvas. For more information and pricing, check out www.louise-hill-design.com.
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? n o s ’ t a h W for July Our top picks
UNTIL JUL 26 Disney’s Beauty and the Beast The tale as old as time turns 20. See it live at The Venetian Macao. Tickets $280-$788 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
JUL 1 SAR Establishment Day
Public holiday
It’s a public holiday, and also the day where Hongkongers march to air a grab-bag of grievances. Grab a banner, or watch for traffic jams.
JUL 3-5 Hong Kong International Dragon Boat Races Top local and international dragonboat teams take to Victoria Harbour. Let the splashing commence. Free. East Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront promenade.
Don’t miss... JUL 6 FIFA Women’s World Cup Final
Kickoff: 7am Hong Kong time from the BC Place Stadium in Vancouver, Canada.
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JUL 4 Independence Day beach party
JUL 10-AUG 16 International Arts Carnival
Boomshack restaurant and Hop Leaf craft beer importer are teaming up to celebrate American Independence Day with a beach party at Shek O. Beach barbecue, craft beer, live music and fun in the sun. U-S-A! U-S-A! 12pm-6pm. Adult tickets $600, child tickets $300 from www.hopleaf.hk
Keep everyone entertained over the summer holidays with an eclectic array of music, dance, drama, magic and acrobatic performances. Details can be found on www. hkiac.gov.hk. Tickets from www.urbtix.hk, 2111 5999.
JUL 17-AUG 2 Hong Kong Pulse 3D Light Show
Take the tourists
It’s the Symphony of Lights, supercharged with lasers and 3D light displays. Every 30 minutes from 8.30pm-10pm.
JUL 15-21 Hong Kong Book Fair
Hong Kong’s biggest book frenzy features author talks, new releases and special themed areas. HKCEC, Wan Chai, hkbookfair.hktdc.com.
JUL 25 Life in Colour “World’s Largest Paint Party” 2015 Paint, dancing and EDM? It’s the coolest afterschool disco in town! AsiaWorld-Expo, Arena, Hall 10, 5pm. Tickets $480-$780 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
Kid columnists What are you doing for the summer holidays? Sevo, age 8 “I’m going to stay in Hong Kong for two weeks because my mummy is having a baby. And then we are all going to Holland together to visit my family.”
Naryth, age 63/4 JUL 22 Blur Tour
Woo hoo !
The legendary British rockers are back in town to promote their newest album, The Magic Whip. Tickets from $480-$1080. www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
“I’m going to go to Cambodia for six weeks to see my mum and dad, I can’t wait! But I’m going to miss school as well.”
JUL 24-28 Ani-Com & Games Hong Kong
Louise, age 7
Get your geek on as comic, game and cosplay fans unite. Don’t forget to dress up! Entrance fee $35. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, www.ani-com.hk, 2344 0415
“My plans for the summer holidays are visiting France, Philippines and China. And we’re going to go diving there, go to shopping malls and we’re going to have fun at my grandma and grandpa’s house.
Pauline, age 5 “I’m going to Switzerland to visit my family and for a wedding, so I’ll get to wear a pretty dress. I love school so I’m going miss school a lot.”
JUL 23-26 Ice Age Live! A Mammoth Adventure The favourite animated film series is brought to life in this fun family musical. AsiaWorld-Expo Arena. Tickets $380-$680 from www.urbtix.hk, 2111 5999.
JUL 28 Happy Mondays Live
Alright our kid?
Nostalgic for the 80s? Relieve the Madchester days of old. 8pm, Rotunda 3, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $545-650 from www.wegottickets.com
Suki, age 7 “I’m going to China because I haven’t seen my dad for a long so he’s there waiting for me. He’s going to take me to this place with lots of water and giant water slides. Then I’m going to America forever, because I’m going to start at a new school in California. I’m going to miss my friends a lot so maybe I will visit Hong Kong in the future.”
Want to be a kid columnist? Next month’s question: what are you packing in your bag for your first day of school? Email your expat-parent.com answer to editorial@fastmedia.com.hk.
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w o n k o o B AUG 15-16 Hi-5 House of Dreams Join the Hi-5 gang for wild and wacky dream adventures. Shows at 11am, 2.30pm and 6pm. AsiaWorld-Expo, Runway 11. Tickets $250-$688 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
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AUG 23 Imagine Dragons Smoke & Mirrors Tour
AUG 19-23 DisneyLive! - Mickey’s Music Festival
The Las Vegas rock band roars into Hong Kong. AsiaWorld-Expo, Arena. Tickets $480-$780 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
Mickey Mouse and friends will rock the show with a remix of your favourite Disney hits. Tickets $180-$680 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
Party like it’s 1999
Best-selling pop artist Robbie Williams will be returning to Hong Kong this Autumn. AsiaWorld-Expo, Hall 1, 8pm. Tickets $880-$1480 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
SEP 25-OCT 11 Singin’ in the Rain The West End production complete with brollies, buckets of rain and soggy coppers. Lyric Theatre, HKAPA, Wan Chai. Tickets $445-$995 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
SEP 25-26 Bon Jovi Live in Macao
SEP 4-6 Shakespeare’s Globe – Hamlet The London theatre company is performing Hamlet in every country on earth. This is Hong Kong’s turn. Lyric Theatre, HKAPA, Wan Chai. Tickets $395$795 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
Photograph: Shakespear’s Globe
SEP 23 Robbie Williams Let Me Entertain You Tour 2015
Big hair day
The iconic American rockers perform for the first time in Macau. Altogether now: Wo-oah! Livin’ on a pray-yeah! Cotai Arena, The Venetian Macao. Tickets $580-3580 from www.cotaiticketing.com, 6333 6660.
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NEWS ESF playgroup opens in Wan Chai The new ESF Language & Learning Centre has officially opened its doors to little learners across Hong Kong. With a bright and spacious interior full of play equipment for curious minds, the purpose-built centre in Wan Chai offers playgroup programmes for children aged six months to three years, with small group sizes of no more than eight children per class. Ann Pearce, Chief Operating Officer of ESL, is delighted with the new centre, “We believe that children learn and develop through play and this underpins all of the activities that are offered at the new ESF Language & Learning Centre. Our playgroups provide the stimulating play environments that are not always easily accessible in Hong Kong.” Children can attend the centre one, two or three times a week, with sessions lasting up to two hours. More details on class times and activities can be found at www.esfearlylearners.org.hk or by contacting the centre directly on 2833 2276. ESF Early Learners, 2/F Prime Mansion, 183-187 Johnson Road, Wan Chai.
We ll do ne! FIS posts best IGCSE results in a decade Cambridge International Examinations announces that three students at French International School (FIS) were “Outstanding Cambridge Learners” in last year’s IGCSE examinations. Jean-Baptiste Rioual came “Top in the World” for First Language French, while Elisabeth Van Gaver and Edwina Gautier De Charnace received “Top in Hong Kong” awards for Foreign Language French and Foreign Language Spanish, respectively. Overall, 81 percent of IGCSE candidates were awarded an A* or A, FIS’ highest percentage in the last decade. Ian Clayton, the school’s Head of International Stream, says: “We celebrate the successes of the top achieving students as well as of the many others who performed to their full potential.”
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Manners maketh the munchkin If you think your child could do with brushing up on their etiquette, Babysteps playgroup is offering a “Modern Manners” course for five- to seven-year-olds from July 13-17, 5-6pm. Run in partnership with the Etiquette and Leadership Institute, “Modern Manners” will teach little ones how to be confident in a variety of social situations, improve their communications skills and show respect to others. We know a few adults who could benefit from enrolling too... The five-session course is $350 per hour-long class, plus $100 for an activity book. 25/F, 2501-02 Universal Trade Centre, 3-5A Arbuthnot Road, Central, 2887 7585, www.babysteps.com.hk
Four new international schools to open by 2018 Four international schools are to open campuses by September 2018, with the first opening next year. A fifth international school campus for The Harbour school will open in Ap Lei Chau. Between them, the five schools will provide 4,270 places, with 3,490 at primary and 780 at secondary level. Opening campuses in Hong Kong for the first time are two elite British public schools, Shrewsbury School and Malvern College, which have both been granted greenfield sites. Shrewsbury International School will be situated in Siu Chik Sha, Tseung Kwan O, and Malvern College Hong Kong will be off Tolo Highway near the Science Park in Sha Tin. A third newcomer, ESOL Education, has been allocated premises on Ma Chung Road in Tai Po. And the French International School is to open its fifth campus in Tseung Kwan O town centre. The first to open will be ESOL Education’s American School Hong Kong (ASHK) in September 2016.
wer ms ans u m , k We as
NEWS
What’s the best thing you’ve ever bought for your kids’ bedroom?
An air purifier - there is a faint light on the machine that also serves as a night light. It also doubles as a white noise machine. Cindy Hwang A solar lamp in the shape of a pear from Ikea. It helps my children learn about saving energy. Alexis Galloway
Historic amusement park reopens on the harbourfront
Old so coschool? ol!
Hong Kong’s historic Lai Yuen amusement park, which closed its gates back in 1997, is being resurrected on the Central waterfront this summer - great news for Hongkongers with fond memories of visiting the park as children. If you’re familiar with the park, expect some old faces. Tino, the park’s Asian elephant has been reincarnated as a banana eating, water spraying robotic pachyderm that guests can approach and feed. Plus, bumper cars, a spooky school, a summer ice rink, a bouncy castle and many more rides and game stalls, all with a hefty dose of retro Hong Kong kitsch. Free admission, open from 11am until 11pm daily until early September. Central Harbourfront Event Space, 9 Lung Wo Road, www.laiyuen1949.com.
New university lodging opens in Tsuen Wan
Custom-made cushions for the wide window sills. It’s a nice chill-out seat for my kids in a small room that’s not big enough for chairs. Fiona Parker Blackout blinds! Shoni Kristensen Glow-in-the-dark star-patterened wallpaper for the ceiling. Dayana Poller Wall decals. Moving around the world, you can easily transport them on oven paper and reapply. It makes the new room instantly feel like home. Katherine Marriner A hammock to store all the stuffed animals and soft toys. It gets them all off the floor and frees up so much storage space! Samantha Rempel A map of the world, to see where our friends come from and where we've been. Julia Miller-Osborn A Gro Clock so my son knows not to get out of bed until “Mr. Sun” appears. Luisa Andrew A built-in magnetic white board as part of a headboard for my younger son’s bed, and the corkboard version for my oldest. Un Hui Cheung
Got a young adult enrolled in a local university? Give them a taste of freedom - and the quintessential student accommodation experience - by getting them a bunk at Campus HK, a newly opened dormstyle living space in Tsuen Wan. The 48 fourbunk dorm rooms are cleverly designed for maximum privacy, with a bed and study area for each student, plus a shared kitchenette, en-suite shower room and separate toilet,
all fitted out in cool retro finishings. Facilitieswise, the residences also have a funky communal space, a fitness centre, swimming pool and hot tub, as well as a sun deck for barbecues. Rates start at $4,000 per month all inclusive of rates, utilities, twice-weekly cleaning, wifi and shuttle buses. We bet they’ll still come home to do their laundry though. 123 Castle Peak Road, Yau Kom Tau, Tsuen Wan, www.campushk.com
A fleece blanket/throw to cover the entire mattress in the winter. It keeps the little ones nice and warm and they sleep longer as they like to snuggle in bed. Erika Hk A thick sheepskin alongside her cot, in case she climbs out, for impromptu naps, and at the moment, for me to “sleep” on when she wakes up scared and asks me to sleep next to her. Alana Zazulak With special thanks to the "Hong Kong Moms" Facebook group.
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GIVEAWAYS
WIN!
The Pulse There’s an “Endless Summer” pool party taking place every Saturday in July on the rooftop of The Pulse (www.thepulse.com.hk). From now until July 25, you can play water soccer, try water bowling, or get soaked in a water gun fight, while landlubbers can watch an outdoor movie or get their face painted. We’ve got 30 adult tickets to give away, each worth $60. Deadline: July 10
Bounce Hong Kong’s newest trampoline park, Bounce (www.bounceinc.com.hk), is opening in KITEC this summer. With more than 80 interconnected springloaded trampolines, it’s set to get the whole family jumping for joy. We’ve got five sets of family passes (good for four people) for the VIP launch party on July 14. Deadline: July 7
Stuck on You Make sure your mini shampoos never get lost again with a cute personalised toiletry bag from name label specialists Stuck On You (www.stuckonyou.hk), valued at $269. Deadline: July 20
Haw Par Music Foundation The non-profit Haw Par Music Foundation (www.hawparmusic.org) has been holding events all summer, bringing classical music to a new generation of maestros in SummerFest 2015. Win tickets to its culminating concert, in which students will perform alongside professional musicians on August 9. We’ve got 20 tickets to give away. Deadline: July 13
Flex Want to build muscle and have fun at the same time? Flex (www.flexhk.com) is giving away a term of FlexKids classes, an after-school programme where children can get fit through dance, martial arts, yoga and Pilates. For the grownups, they’re also offering three sets of five Pilates Allegro sessions. Deadline: July 31
To enter, click the Giveaways tab on our website, www.expat-parent.com
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STUFF
Mini Muvo waterproof speaker $588 each from Creative, www.hk.creative.com.
Havaianas flip-flops $328 from Lovers & Friends, Shop 106, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, 2501 5355.
It’s raining, it’s pouring Water-resistant paddlepak $224 by Trunki from Baby Online, www.babyonline.com.hk.
Fireman raincoat US$91 by Marleen Molenaar (matching hat available), www.marleenmolenaar.com.
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Make a splash with our rainy weather gear
Umbrella $490 from Blunt, www.bluntumbrellas.com.hk.
Rain hat US$12 (plus US$15 shipping) by Pluie Pluie from Babychelle, www.babychelle.com.
STUFF Microscopic Creatures wellies $260.89 (plus $94.28 shipping) by Hatley from Childrensalon, www.childrensalon.com.
Sleeveless hooded top $129 from H&M, 30 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, www.hm.com.
Waterproof and drop-proof iPhone case from US$64.99 from Catalyst, www.catalystcase.com.
Umbrella $79.90 from H&M. Floral water-resistant children’s watch $260 from Cath Kidston, Shop 8, Empire Court, 2- 4 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, www. cathkidston.com. Waterproof pouch $290 from Makaron, www.makaron-home.com.
Zkg water shoes $698 by Zhik from On Board Apparel, www.onboardapparel.asia.
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COLUMN
Sarah Fung ponders her daughter’s primary school place.
L
ast month, I took my first tour of a primary school in anticipation of possibly sending the Baby Pak Choi there in four years’ time. Four years! I don’t know what I’m doing with my life in four days’ time, let alone four years, but in this crazy world of exponentially increasing debentures and fierce competition for places, getting your name on the waiting list for the right school is key. A friend of mine who works at an elite private school in Hong Kong told me that some parents apply for kindergarten place with their ultrasound scan. My first reaction to that news was that they must be insane. My second reaction was to phone around various schools and start arranging site visits. The ultrasound waiting list isn’t the only craziness out there. I’ve read stories about parents converting to Christianity to better their odds of securing a place at a top religious school. There’s a company that specializes in creating curriculum vitaes for three-year-olds (what could possibly be on there? mostly toilet-trained? Hardly ever inserts cooked pasta into nostrils?). Debentures run into the hundreds of thousands, and that’s even before you get to the school fees themselves. It’s enough to make you run for the hills which, before you ask, is a metaphor and not a soon-to-open elite academy on the Southside. Then there’s the IB vs. A-Level debate. I can’t believe that at less than a year old, I have to already be thinking about the Pak Choi’s university entrance exams. Having done A-levels myself, I remember them being rather anglo-centric (I recall having to answer questions about the British parliament, about which I knew basically nothing, and also do a written exam about a play set in a
...some parents apply for kindergarten place with their ultrasound scan.
Welsh mining town - a challenge when you grew up in Tai Wai) but with the IB I’ve heard nothing but doom and gloom stories about how much harder it is and how difficult it is for parents to follow. So do we go with the devil we know, or take a gamble on the IB? Or - option three - do I bury my head in the sand for another afternoon and instead help my nine-month-old with her immediate educational needs - practicing feeding herself cereal puffs? But why must my child go to an international school anyway? As a born and bred Hongkonger (and, full disclosure, ESF alumni), I’ve always been intrigued by the idea of enrolling my children into a local school. For one, it’s a hell of a lot easier on the wallet. But also, the band-one schools get fantastic results. Plus, you come out the other side with a second-to-none work ethic, and hopefully better written Chinese skills than my own. But what if my darling child can’t hack it in a high-pressure local school? To survive in a bandone school you need to ace every test, complete hours and hours of back-breaking homework each night, and on top of that get shuttled to resume-boosting tutorial classes, piano lessons the the like, all to stay competitive and look even more enticing to a university admissions officer. I want my baby to spend her childhood being a child, and I certainly don’t want to be the one tiger-mothering her into an elite Stormtrooper Kumon-bot. Childhood is short, and the Baby Pak Choi has her entire professional life to work hard, compete with her peers and worry about her prospects. So if I have to stump up an eye-wateringly large amount of cash in order for her school days to be happy ones - spending her classes making paintings to go up on the fridge and having fun while she learns then I guess that’s fine with me, even if I have to sell a kidney to pay for it.
Writer and editor Sarah Fung is the first-time mum to a baby girl. She blogs about parenthood at babypakchoi.tumblr.com, twitter @sarahefung.
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MEET THE PARENTS
Daddy’s home We meet two dads who take charge of the household while mum works. By Carolyyne Dear.
The Cooper family Matt Cooper is author of children’s books, Lost in Hong Kong and Black Rain Day. He is dad to two children, Noah, 7, and Neve, 4.
What made you decide to become a stayat-home dad? We moved to Hong Kong because my wife was offered a job here as a teacher. Initially I worked as a medical writer, but it wasn’t very well paid and I didn’t enjoy it that much, so it seemed like an obvious choice for me to be the one who cared for the kids. Noah attends Clearwater Bay Primary school and Neve is at a local kindergarten. Talk us through a regular day. My day starts at 6am when I make packed
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lunches for my wife and son before the kids get up. Then it’s breakfast, followed by dropping Noah off for the school bus and walking Neve to kindergarten. We don’t have a helper so I have to juggle household chores with work (I’m a writer) and the needs of the children. After school drop-off, I head home, often via the supermarket, and bounce between household chores and working my wife will vouch for the fact that writing normally wins. I collect Neve at midday and we often have a playdate. Then it’s off to collect Noah from the school bus at 3pm.
MEET THE PARENTS After snacks, we normally do an activity (football, dancing or swimming) before coming home for dinner. It’s tough coming in at 5:30pm and having to start cooking for the kids straight away. Wine helps. By this stage I am still loving my kids, but I also can’t wait for them to be in bed, asleep. Luckily my wife usually arrives home around this time to rescue me. Then it’s dinner, bath, reading, general faffing around and then lights out. Then I jump straight on the laptop to catch up on work and emails, and wonder what on earth we’re going to eat tomorrow. What’s it like being a stay-at-home-day in Hong Kong? It’s still pretty unusual for a dad to be the primary carer in Hong Kong, but it is becoming more common as people realize that it’s an option. But having said that, I was normally the only dad at baby groups.The main problems with being a male carer are infrastructure ones – it drove me mad that most of the baby-changing options here are in women’s toilets. But generally people have been open to me being the main carer.
It drove me mad that most of the baby-changing options here are in women’s toilets The mums at baby groups were brilliant and treated me like one of the girls. Holding hands and dancing to Ring-a-Ring-a-Roses is a great leveller. What kind of reactions do you get when you’re out and about? It can be tough - my kids often resemble Victorian street urchins. When they were small, I would often get old local women coming up to me and pointing out how my kids were neglected. I think they thought that as a man I would have no idea about how to care for children. Admittedly in some instances they were right, but that’s not really the point. How does it compare to office work? As a job, it’s mentally tiring at times and
physically exhausting at others, but I would definitely recommend it. You will never think “I wish I’d spent more in the office rather than being with my kids” when you’re older. I also don’t miss the commute to work or office politics. Unlike professional disagreements, I can diffuse arguments at home with a Hobnob. What kind of social life do you have? I’m lucky that I’ve made a lot of friends through my children. I coach for Stingrays rugby and so I meet a lot of parents (mainly dads, which is a nice change) through that. There’s also a great group called HK Dads (www.hkdads.org) who meet once a week. We also organize a curry night every now and again. Do you think you’ll pick up your career when your children are older? In terms of my career, in some ways spending this time with the kids has given me a better idea of what I want my career to be - which is writing children’s books by the way, not being a nanny.
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MEET THE PARENTS The Grimes family Ryan Grimes is a full-time stay-at-home dad to his sons, Howie and Jacob. After meeting his wife in Hong Kong in 2006, he spent time working in Singapore and Shanghai before deciding to move back to Hong Kong permanently on the birth of his first son. His wife, Mandy, works fulltime in finance.
How did you decide to become a stay-athome dad? The decision for me to stay home was both an emotional and a financial one – I love being with my kids, plus my wife’s earning potential is higher than mine. This made the decision easy on a practical level. Do you get any help from your in-laws? We decided not to involve my wife’s parents (who live in Hong Kong) as the boys’ primary carers. Grandparents are great at loving and indulging children, but I wanted to make sure they are given the right level of discipline as well. Statistics show that children with parents who are less involved in their day-to-day lives, are more likely to make bad decisions later in life. Tell us about your average day. My day begins early, when the kids wake up. I change nappies, organize breakfast, and then we go for a morning walk. We go to playgroup three days a week and once a week or so we have a play date with children of a similar age. Is it hard to make friends with other dads? I have met a lot of other dads through hkdads. org which has been great – the mums have been very welcoming but sometimes you just need to chat about “man stuff”. We exchange tips on schools, talk through the unique challenges we face as male primary caregivers, and affirm each other in a society which can sometimes be not very tolerant of what we are doing. There’s also a new support group called DADsNetwork, which is great – it’s very important to take care of your own needs, too. Do you get funny looks when you’re out with your kids? The kind of prejudice I’ve received is to be expected. Fortunately I’m a foreigner so it’s
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okay to be a bit weird by local standards. I think Chinese male caregivers would be subject to significantly more prejudice. What’s the hardest thing about being a stay-at-home dad? Of course caring for children takes an enormous amount of patience. I sometimes have to remind my wife that I have a “patience meter” and by the end of the day it’s getting close to empty. Toddler behaviour can be frustrating, but you do learn to sit calmly through a half-hour tantrum and to keep your cool when you step back into a room after thirty seconds to find your newly painted wall covered in crayon scribbles. And the best thing? Despite the hard bits, there are moments that touch your heart and bring you unimaginable joy. Like seeing your child’s personality develop, his ability to relate to the outside world and begin empathizing with other
people. These moments are just amazing and you start seeing the world through a child’s eyes. Take something simple such as bubbles – they give kids such joy, which makes you start thinking “oh right, bubbles really are beautiful and fascinating”. What do you think of the pressures society places on dads? In terms of my career, I understand that mainstream society expects a man to do something that draws a monetary income to be accepted. Frankly, I think that’s not fair and we should consider abolishing this gender stereotype. Raising wonderful young people is an extremely noble task, which will have a larger impact on society than spending time at work just to validate yourself. A man who is truly comfortable with himself should be able to leave this behind and focus on the things that are more important in life, even if that means you have to accept a setback in your career.
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FEATURE
BEDROOMS to
AZ
We’ve got everything you need to know about kids’ bedrooms, from cool kit to tidying tips. By Expat Parent staff.
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A
is for allergies
Is your little one sniffing and sneezing? Their room could be a hotbed of allergens. Dr. Adrian Wu of the Hong Kong Centre for Allergy and Asthma Care tells us how to clean up. 1. Dust mites thrive in moist environments. Keep humidity levels below 50 percent by running your A/C or dehumidifier for at least eight hours a day. 2. Protect mattresses and pillows with antiallergen barrier covers. The best are made from microfibre. Make sure they are washable, breathable and chemical-free. 3. Use hot water (above 55°C) to wash barrier covers every two to four weeks and bedding every week. Items that can’t be washed can be tumble dried at a high temperature for at least 10 minutes. Put soft toys in the freezer for at least 24 hours, and then wash in cold water to kill bugs. 4. Buy a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter - they can retain particles one-tenth of the size that ordinary vacuum bags can. 5. Swap fabric-upholstered furniture for wood, metal, plastic or leather. Carpets and rugs can harbour large quantities of dust mites, so limit their use and if you must have carpets, choose short piles.
B
FEATURE is for bedsheets
Tippy Toes Quilt Cover, $1,090 from Indigo Living, Shop 221-224, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, 2801 5512, www.indigo-living.com.
C
is for cot bed
D
is for desk
Pick a cot that will grow with your little ones, converting to a full-size single bed. $12,500 from Bumps to Babes, 2/F, 23 Carmel Road, Stanley, 2555 6318, www.bumpstobabes.com. Children are constantly growing, so it’s important that their desk/chair setup grows with them. Ergonomic and height adjustable, Moll desks and chairs are designed to fit children aged four all the way up to fully grown adults. Available at Nerd Kids for Living, Room 1916-17, 19/F Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, 3105 9887, www.nerdkidsforliving.com.
F
is for fan
Keep little fingers safe with this bladeless Dyson Air Multiplier. From Broadway and Fortress outlets citywide.
E
is for explosion of stuff
Tearing your hair out at your kids’ messy rooms? Here are some easy tips to get them to keep it neat. 1. Make a to-do list. Pin up a simple, easy to follow to-do list that your children can take a few minutes to follow each day. 2. Make it a place to be proud of. Letting them pick out their own bedsheets or a cool lamp will motivate them to keep their room looking awesome. 3. Put the majority of your excess toys into storage, and then rotate them in and out every few months. 4. Make things easy to store and hard to get out. Pinterest has some great storage inspiration. 5. Label everything. Not only does this help with reading skills, little minds know exactly where things need to go when it’s time to tidy up.
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FEATURE
G
is for “get back in bed!”
Got a kid who keeps getting up in the evening? The genius “Bedtime Pass Program” from kids’ health website Dr. Greene (www.drgreene.com) is a brilliant solution. At bedtime, you give your child a card that allows them one free pass to get a glass of water, a short story, whatever. Once they’ve used that card they’re marched back to bed with no talking and no eye contact. After a couple of nights of being frogmarched back to bed, you’ll find them fast asleep, holding onto their card in case they need it later - or so the theory goes, anyway!
H
is for Hong Kong art prints
Hong Kong Taxi print US$18 (plus US$10 shipping) by Claire O’Brien from Society6, www.society6.com.
K
I
is for Ikea
This Scandinavian furniture behemoth is a treasure trove of kids’ stuff, kid-friendly furniture and fun room accessories to traditional wooden toys. We love this four-poster bed, decorated with bunting. ÖVRE bed, $1,659.90 from Ikea, Park Lane Hotel Basement, 310 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 3125-0888.
is for kids tell us about their dream rooms
Louise, age 7 “My dream bedroom would be a princess room, not a Disney princess - Princess of the World. I want it all pink and purple. I would like a makeup area too. I want a bunk bed, so at the top is where I sleep and at the bottom is for my wardrobe. Also, my bed will have wings so I can fly”.
Declan, age 9 “I want my bedroom all blue with a computer, a widescreen TV and a robot that does all my stuff, including my homework. I love football, so I want a big goal post in my room so I can always play”.
J
is for junior version
Suki, age 7 “I want a bunk bed with a remote, so when you press the remote a table will appear and then you can pick any food you want with the same remote. I want a big closet beside my bed, which will have lots of sparkly dresses with wings. I want my room to be sparkling purple, with lots of unicorns and rainbows”.
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Mini Egg Chair, $2,390 from SofaSale, 204 Tsat Tsz Mui Rd, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong, 2541 1230, www.sofasale.com.hk
L
is for letting in light
Stop cracks of light disturbing your baby’s sleep with the Gro Anywhere portable blackout blind. $439 from www. ourbaby.com.hk
M
is for mattress
Children will spend roughly 12 hours a night in bed, so it’s well worth investing in a good mattress. Try ones from New Zealand bedding company Okooko, which are made with natural, earth-friendly materials. 6/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, 2870 1132, www.okooko.com.
N
is for nightlight
Twilight turtle tune $488 from www.cloudb.com.
O
is for ouch
Got a curious tot running about? Don’t forget to baby-proof!
P
is for personalised canvas Get a personalised print for your child (or as a gift for a new baby) from Creative Designs Asia. $300 for a 30x30cm print. www.creativedesignsasia.com.
Q
is for quilt
100 percent cotton baby blanket. $325 from www.tickitey-boo.com.
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FEATURE
R
is for ridiculous
Want to go all out? These wild beds are the stuff of kids’ dreams. Bus Bunk Bed $8,990 from Kidniture, Eastern Commercial Centre, 395399 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, 8107 8128, www.kidniture.com.
S
is for sleepovers
Hosting a slumber party? Here are five ideas to keep your event from being a snoozefest. 1. Buy matching PJs. Head to Cotton On for cute co-ordinated tees and shorts. 2. Set up an epic snack station. Pop up a huge bowl of popcorn and lay out a buffet of gummy candy, chocolate, marshmallows, skittles and sprinkles. 3. Give out goodie bags. Hit up Sasa for lip balms, nail polishes, mini manicure sets, and single-use face masks. Include a toothbrush for extra parent points. 4. Get crafty. Buy a few pairs of cheap flip-flops and get your tweens to decorate them with beads, buttons, ribbons and more. 5. Don’t forget breakfast! Send them home with happy tummies by putting on an easy buffet of fresh fruit, single-serve cereal boxes, muffins and juice.
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T
is for Taobao
Taobao, China’s Amazon-esque online marketplace, is a treasure trove of cheap furniture and homewares, sourced straight from the country’s factories. If you can’t read Chinese, harness the services of a Taobao shopping concierge such as Yi Li Pan from Taobao Panpan Buy. Join her Facebook group, tell her what you’re looking for and she’ll come up with the goods. tiny.cc/panpanbuy
U
is for utterly disgusting
Got a teen with a gross bedroom? We’ve got coping strategies: 1. Set some ground rules. Reasonable requests, with a fair rationale behind them, are a good first step on the path towards a somewhat tidier room. 2. Prepare to compromise. If the room is a biohazard, then that needs to be addressed, but perhaps you can let the clutter slide. 3. Think of it as a teachable moment. Sure, you could go in and clean it yourself, but this is an opportunity to get your teen to take responsibility for their own space, especially in the run-up to university. 4. Wait it out. You may find that the problem magically resolves itself once a boyfriend or girlfriend appears on the scene. 5. If all else fails, change the wifi password, and don’t let them have it until they’ve cleaned up.
FEATURE
X W
is for wall stickers
V
Dress up Dolls wall decal, $330 from www.tickitey-boo.com.
is for VOC-free paint
VOCs, or volatile organic compounds, are chemicals such as formaldehyde, xylene and benzene. Often found in paint, fumes from a freshly painted house can cause symptoms such as eye irritation, dizziness and headaches. Opt instead for one of these gorgeous, nontoxic boutique paints from 513 Paint Shop. Sample pots are $80, and if you like the colour, you can order a bigger can. Unit S513, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, 2155 2282, 513paintshop.com.
Y
is for yawn
Kids having trouble dropping off? Get in a sleepy frame of mind with these tips: 1. Tone down the colours. Ditch the rainbow bedsheets and curtains for more soothing neutral shades. 2. Turn up the A/C. A cool room signals to the body that it’s time for sleep. 3. Check for monsters. Under the bed and in the wardrobe are common hiding places.
is for X-tra bed
Short on space? Make room for guests by getting a custom-made single bed with a second trundle bed concealed underneath. From Takad, Shop 16, G/F, Top Hit Plaza, 363 Des Voeux Road West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2814 1843, www.takad.com.hk.
Z
is for zzz‌
expat-parent.com | 27
xxxxx
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OPEN DAY
Hong Kong International School The elite American school in Tai Tam prioritizes spirituality, charity and the holistic social development of its students. By Evie Burrows-Taylor
Founded by six businessmen united by their faith in the Lutheran Church, Hong Kong International School (HKIS) promotes the importance of spirituality and a high moral grounding among its students. Alan Runge, who took up the post of Head of School at HKIS earlier this year, is keen to highlight the importance of the school’s religious tradition, though students of all faiths are welcome. “We want our students to find the value of having a spiritual foundation and to find it for themselves,” he says. “It may not be the version of Christianity that the school was founded on, or even Christianity at all”, he says. Launched in the 1960s, the founders were inspired by the growing number of American families being asked to relocate to Hong Kong, and their desire for a school run according to the US system. Together with support from the government and Lutheran Church, the school opened its doors in 1966. Split into four divisions: Lower and Upper Primary, Middle School and High School, HKIS is currently home to 2,585 students. The school has remained largely American both in terms of its staff and intake, with US passport holders accounting for around 60 per cent of the student body, followed by Canadians, then Brits. The rest of the students are made up of around 40 different nationalities. Hong Kong and Chinese nationals make up around just 9 per cent of the school’s pupils. The Tai Tam site, currently home to the Lower Primary, Middle school and High School students, benefits from spectacular views of Tai Tam Harbour and the surrounding hills of the Southside. It’s light and spacious, with plans to upgrade its already impressive facilities. “We don’t want to have more students; we want to have more space,” Runge explains. In terms of its curriculum, the HKIS leadership team firmly believes in independence, promoting self-directed and active learning. “The most important thing to remember is the child themselves; learning is not mechanical. We’ve moved beyond
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OPEN DAY trying to get the student to give us the right answer,” Runge says. “The best thing is for us to teach them how to be learners and then lay out a pathway through our curriculum. Our students are highly engaged and take ownership of what they need to learn.” HKIS students learn Mandarin Chinese from lower primary through to grade 12 and take Chinese Studies from lower primary up to grade 6, after which it becomes an elective. School fees range start at around $168,500 per year for a full day for the youngest students, to $195,800 for grade 12 students. The school also offers a scheme that enables parents and sponsors to secure priority placement for potential pupils by buying a debenture worth $2 million. Debentures are fully subscribed at the moment, although interested parents can contact the school to be placed on a waiting list. In addition to a rigorous academic programme, service learning is also an integral part of student life at HKIS. The school runs an annual event for St. Baldrick’s, the children’s cancer charity, and each
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Many families are new arrivals in Hong Kong, so HKIS puts on lectures, film nights and talks for parents division of the school is involved in projects to support charitable organisations. Lower Primary students raise money for the Heifer Read to Feed project, which sends animals to communities in developing countries pupils recently raised over $500,000 for the scheme. Middle School pupils engage in a “compassion project”, allowing them to choose their own cause to support. Other charities benefiting from HKIS fundraising include Half the Sky, Oxfam, Operation Santa Claus and Kids4Kids. “We teach that one of the reasons to learn is so that you can go out into the world and do something meaningful, to serve, to transform something,” Runge says. “We hope that the presence of our students will make things better for others.” Many families enrolling at the school are
HKIS’s first-rate facilities
OPEN DAY new arrivals in Hong Kong, so HKIS puts on lectures, film nights and talks for parents, particularly in the Lower Primary section of the school, to help them adjust to life in the city. “I graduated from international school in Jakarta, so I understand the international lifestyle and the needs of our families,” says Lower Primary Principal, Maya Nelson. “This becomes your family, so we do what we can to support parents.” Nelson also stresses the importance HKIS places on playtime for the school’s youngest students. “We’re very firm believers in play being an important activity for children, supporting and informing further learning.” Young pupils engage in several different playtimes and the staff stay up-to-date with the latest research on the benefits of free time in a child’s development. “We’re a very joyful place and the kids love coming to school,” Nelson says. “We try to honour that there are certain things that should be looked upon by parents and educators as meaningful moments.”Patrick Hurworth, High School Principal concurs, “If children don’t feel respected, they won’t thrive. HKIS is a very friendly environment.”
Primary students raise money for charity
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PRINCIPAL’S OFFICE
Alan Runge Head of School to worry about that. It isn’t a positive memory, but it was great to see how HKIS responded. After those events happened, we rallied as a school and supported each other. It was good to see that the school lives by its values. What do you like most about Hong Kong? I call myself a Texan, even though I wasn’t born there, and there’s a Texas spirit in Hong Kong. People are sociable, they get out and they’re friendly. They love to share stories, eat together and be outside and hike. You spend time outside here and you’re part of a community, and I just love it. What was the best advice you were given as a child by a teacher? One teacher always spoke about the mountain of knowledge, and how the best teacher is someone who understands how to approach learning from lots of different pathways. You have to understand as a teacher that not everyone is going to be able to reach a certain level of understanding in the same way, and you have to be patient.
What did you want to be as a child? I went through a phase of wanting to be a garbage man - I just had this fascination with them. I then decided I wanted to be an astronaut and that drove me to become a scientist. How did you end up in education? Going through college, I thought I wanted to be a minister until I realised that what I liked the most about that idea was teaching people. I decided I wanted to be a professor, which led me through graduate school and onto my first job at a university. What was your favourite subject? Physics. How long have you been a teacher? All my adult life, since 1997. I was a college student for 16 full-time years and that’s how much I love school. I’m a lifelong learner so I
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can’t imagine myself doing anything but this. If there was a way to retire as a student, I’d do that, but the next best thing is being a teacher. What are the challenges of your job? For a school like HKIS, it’s the size and complexity. To me, HKIS feels like a private liberal arts university in the US but unlike a university you deal with such a range of ages. What do you enjoy most about your position? I get to learn something new every day and I enjoy interacting with the kids themselves. What has been the most memorable event of your career? A lot of things have happened in the short time I’ve been here. However, I’ve never had to deal with the death of a student before, and this semester we had two students pass away. As a teacher, you’re usually dealing with young, healthy, vibrant kids, so you don’t have
As a child, I went through a stage of wanting to be a garbage man. I just had this fascination with them
How do you spend your free time? I love to be outside, because I spend my life in my head, and so sometimes I do my best thinking when I’m doing something else. I love flying, sailing and gardening. Which talent would you most like to have? I wish I could dance - I don’t have a rhythmic bone in my body - and I also wish I could play the organ. Which quality to you value most in people? Integrity. I also value people who are able to let go of their in ego in pursuit of a common goal.
sp
red o n so
co l u m
n
Countdown to ‘big school’ How to ease the transition from preschool to primary. By ITS Education Asia.
Seeing your little one in school uniform for the first time is likely to bring a tear to the eyes of any parent. Most schools are very good at helping children settle in well before they start official classes in late August, but even if you’ve missed the usual visits and parent information sessions, it’s worth showing the school to your child a few times before their first day. Some preparation during the summer holiday can be helpful. It’s important to prepare your little one practically as well as emotionally. Being able to dress and undress quickly and neatly for PE and swimming lessons, keep track of pens and pencils, hang up coats and pack their bags all help school days to run without those little hitches that can cause anxiety. Help your child learn to recognise and write their name. Most children embark on a phonics
reading programme almost immediately, so it’s helpful if your child is familiar with the alphabet. The same goes for maths and the numbers one to 20. Your child should be able to sit still for up to 30 minutes – or at least remain seated. This can be quite hard for young kids so practice by spending calm time with your child playing games, doing jigsaw puzzles or drawing and painting. Spend some time reading aloud every day. At a basic level, this teaches your child how to read a book: to start at the beginning, to turn the pages one by one, to read from left to right and top to bottom. This will be in their interest for library visits at school and storytelling time. Borrow “starting school” books from the library to read over the summer. Pick out fun and exciting activities in each one and use
them as starting points for conversations. Go on a special trip to buy uniform and essential items for starting school, such as a lunch box, new shoes and stationery. Encourage your child to talk to other children by looking at their eyes and smiling, asking their names and introducing themselves. About 99 per cent of all children’s worries in the first week is that they don’t have any friends yet, so give them the skills to independently get to know each other. ITS Educational Services offers numerous services to families who are looking for entrance to international schools. These range from school advice, school assessment preparation, intensive English courses for entry into mainstream schools and consultancy support for entrance to universities. For details, email anne.m@itseducation.asia.
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SUMMER HOLIDAYS
YMCA King’s Park
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SUMMER HOLIDAYS
Rock out If your little ones are climbing the walls at home, why not send them to a rock-climbing course? Shreena Patel discovers the indoor and outdoor climbing walls that are worth a clamber.
Go Nature Climbing enthusiasts tell us that this is the best indoor bouldering wall in town. With more than 100 climbing routes and bouldering problems, Go Nature is a popular spot for serious local climbers and beginners alike. It offers parentand child and kid-only courses, plus outdoor bouldering and abseiling. Unit C2, G/F, Wing Hing Industrial Building, 14 Hing Yip Street, Kwun Tong, 3563 7156, www.gonaturehk.com. Tung Lung Chau The island of Little Tung Lung Chau is a Mecca for local climbers, with routes for all levels of experience. It’s a tranquil destination at the eastern entrance to Victoria Harbour
The island of Little Tung Lung Chau is a Mecca for local climbers
Climbing 101 Perry Tong, climbing instructor at BoulderLand, shares his top climbing tips:
and can only be reached by ferry on the weekend. Book a rock climbing and abseiling day expedition with Klook, a booking platform for travel activities and experiences in Hong Kong. All activities are carried out by trained instructors and safety equipment is provided. Participants must be at least 14 years old. For
• Safety first. Climbing is dangerous, so it’s important to understand the risks and learn to protect yourself, your partners and other climbers. • Focus on your technique: learning to climb properly is difficult but necessary to develop your strength and skills. • The “natural” position (hands and legs shoulder-width apart, door knob grip) is the strongest. Try to use it as much as possible when you climb. • Open your mind and look for alternatives. There is usually more than one possible sequence for any particular problem or crux. • Listen to your body. Pushing yourself too far in training or on a hard climb is a major cause of injury. • Make sure you rest: your body does not improve during exercise, but when it’s in recovery.
Rockstars
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SUMMER HOLIDAYS
YMCA King’s Park
enquiries, call 3462 6208 or email support@klook.com, www.klook.com. YMCA King’s Park At 18 metres high, the YMCA’s outdoor climbing wall at King’s Park is the tallest in Hong Kong. At 16 metres wide, it can host up to 30 climbers at one time on 15 different routes with varying degrees of difficulty, including some tricky overhangs. There is a multitude of courses available for children and adults from July to September. Participants aged six and above can sign up for the Shek O Rock Climbing Fun Days on the 18 and 19th July (children under 18 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian), no experience required. 22 Gascoigne Road, Yau Ma Tei (Jordan MTR), 2782 6682, www.kpcc. ymcahk.org.hk.
YMCA If the big YMCA wall is looking a bit daunting, then its Tsim Sha Tsui venue has a more manageable 266 square metres of indoor climbing wall. Learn the basics of rope work and climbing techniques through its indoor climbing courses for children or its introductory classes for adults. Private tuition is also available. Members and non-members alike can participate, and the wall can also be hired for private groups and parties. 41 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2268 7099, www.ymcahk.org.hk. BoulderLand Instructor Perry Tong offers private classes for children who are serious about climbing at BoulderLand’s indoor centre in Kwai Chung. Perry recommends that the children are at least 10 years’ old and he will take no more than two at a time. A one-hour private session (you can get an additional 30 minutes during off-peak hours) costs $200 per child (or $350 for two). It’s recommended that you bring your own climbing shoes, though the gym has spare shoes for trial purposes. Flat J, 11/F, Block 2, Wah Fung Industrial Centre, 33-39 Kwai Fung Crescent, Kwai Fong. Contact perry_tong@hotmail.com.
BoulderLand
Just Climb Just Climb offers climbing classes for adults and children, plus a choice of day, monthly and annual passes for non-coached climbing sessions. One-hour beginners’ classes teach basic climbing and bouldering skills, while children’s classes (ages four-16) include a certificate at the end of the course. The summer youth programme runs throughout July and August. Shoe hire is available on-site. G/F, Prince Industrial Building, 706 Prince Edward Road East, San Po Kong, 3561 7868, www. justclimb.hk. Rockstars Rockstars specialises in climbing classes for children at the HKIS climbing wall in Tai Tam, though children over the age of five from all schools are welcome to take part. Sessions are run as 12-week courses that include two weekend bouldering trips to Shek O. Rockstars can also organise birthday parties and family climbing outings at HKIS or Shek O – a popular bouldering destination for experienced climbers – that includes up to two hours of climbing. The 13-week course starts from $4,800. 9484 3060, rockstarshk.com.
Aye, Carabiner! Learn the climbing lingo • Rock shoes typically have a snug fit and smooth, sticky rubber soles. • A locking carabiner connects the rope to the harness. • A harness secures the climber to the rope. • A belay device is used to control the rope (when either ascending or
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descending). If a climber should fall with slack in the rope, the device acts as a friction brake and brings the fall to a stop. • A problem is the path taken to complete the climb. • The crux is the most difficult section of the climb.
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BIG DAY OUT
Lamma panorama Nigel Griffiths hikes across lovely, laid-back Lamma Island.
Lamma is one of Hong Kong’s best-known outlying islands, with a rep for superb seafood, pretty beaches and hippies. The last is a little out-dated, because while some of the 5,000 residents on the 13 sq km island embrace an “alternative lifestyle”, a fast ferry service to Central means it is also home to plenty of professionals seeking a close-knit community and a laid-back, car-free, afterhours environment. For the rest of us, it’s a great place to take a breather from the frantic pace of Hong Kong life. Located southwest of Hong Kong Island, life on the territory’s third-largest island revolves around two relaxed villages – Yung Shue Wan (Banyan Tree Bay) in the north and Sok Kwu Wan (Picnic Bay) in the east. Few people live on the southern part of Lamma and access is only by hiking or private boat. The south’s biggest beach, Sham Wan, is an important breeding site for sea turtles. Catch a ferry from Central or Aberdeen to Yung Shue Wan. From the pier, the fishing
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harbour of O Tsai lies to the left with the smallest Tin Hau Temple I have seen in Hong Kong. To the right, the main harbour also serves as a typhoon shelter. Head along the harbour side to the main street. As well as various restaurants, from Cantonese seafood to organic vegetarian, there are two bars and the main Tin Hau Temple, built in 1876 and guarded by peculiar western lions. Apparently, when the temple’s original Chinese-style lions were damaged in 1960, the mason hired to replace them specialised in Western-style stone lions. The result is a fitting motif for this east-meets-west community. Half way down the street, a well signposted left turn leads to Sok Kwu Wan. The signpost suggests a hiking time of an hour and 20 minutes, but I suggest allowing at least two hours to take in the views. Follow the footpath through Tai Yuen and Wang Long villages to Hung Shing Yeh Beach. The going is flat and beautiful orange
flowers and purple grasses attract butterflies and many species of birds. The golden beach is peaceful during the week, but it gets busy at weekends, with shower and changing facilities, and a bar-restaurant in season. From here the path heads uphill, curling around the headland to give a great view over the beach and beyond to the power station. The sunsets are magnificent. There are plenty of sidetracks for those wishing to venture off the concrete path and a pavilion shelter that makes a good place for a rest. From there are views of the hard-to-reach Tit Sha Long Beach and the island’s mountains, including imposing Mount Stenhouse. The trail is up and down. When the sea appears on the left, the hardest part of the hike is over and it’s downhill the rest of the way. Pass a cement works jutting out to sea, another pavilion overlooking Picnic Bay and some beehives. At Lo So Shing Village is an impressive graffiti mural painted in 2013 by Hong Kong Smilemakers. Walk through the
BIG DAY OUT village to lovely Lo So Shing Beach with its barbecue pits, changing facilities and shallow rock pools on the headland for children to explore. Returning from the barbecue pits, before the LCSD block, stairs ascend and a footpath beckons through green vegetation and past the defunct Lo Shing Village School. If you did not turn off through the village to the beach but continued straight, it is here that the footpaths meet again. Walk around Picnic Bay past a sandy shoreline with egrets stalking fresh fish and the Kamikaze Caves, dug by the Japanese during the wartime occupation to hide boats filled with explosives to destroy British ships should they come near. Be brave and walk inside: there are no bats or other wildlife, just a stone face at the end. Soon Sok Kwu Wan’s seafood restaurants appear across the inlet. Cross a bridge past a few houses and pathways leading left and right. The right track heads to a fenced-off pool teeming with wildlife. There are birds in the trees and frogs call at dusk. As well as a multitude of brown tree frogs and Asian common toads, this is where John D. Romer
discovered the rare and endangered Romer’s tree frog in 1952. Keep your eyes open for a frog 2.5cm-3cm long with has a brown snakelike pattern on its back. Carry on the footpath and past another Tin Hau Temple, built after 1826, and into the strip of restaurants. The only one that doesn’t sell seafood is Lo So Kitchen, which has a vast selection of beers and German-style sausages. From here, take a ferry back to Aberdeen or Central. The path continues on to Mo Tat Wan, which has a pleasant beach fronted by The Bay Mediterranean restaurant. The Cheun Kee Ferry calls there between Sok Kwu Wan and Aberdeen. From Sok Kwu Wan or Mo Tat Wan, keen hikers can set out to climb Mount Stenhouse (Shan Tei Tong), Lamma’s highest at 353 metres. Not for the faint-hearted. Ferries to Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan depart from Central Pier 4. For the timetable, visit www.td.gov.hk. The Chuen Kee Ferry (www.ferry.com.hk/eng/service. htm) departs from Aberdeen harbour, near the fish market.
Clockwise from far left: Yung Shue Wan Harbour; fish drying; a firecracker vine in Tai Yuen Village; Tin Hau temple in Sok Kwu Wan.
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TRAVEL
Where the wild things are Sharan Gill goes on safari in Sri Lanka.
Holy cow this is an awesome safari
Tales of friends’ forays into the African wilderness have always enthralled us. Racing along in an open jeep, watching water buffalo wade into a crocodile-infested lake, getting up close to an elephant feeding her young... going on safari is an exciting idea. We have had our fill of lazy beach holidays and Club Med sojourns in the past few years, however, with two young kids and rather pampered tastes, the thought of a 13-hour flight followed by an arduous journey to the African plains is somewhat daunting. But what if you could hop onto a relatively short five-hour flight, and stay in a beautiful resort, with elephants taking a shortcut through the grounds to the nearby jungle and the occasional deer sauntering to the swimming pool for a drink while you float in the water? Yala National Park in Sri Lanka offers a “safari lite” adventure – and it was one of the
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Watching animals in herds is breathtaking, something that going to the zoo does not prepare you for most exciting holidays my family of four (plus an aunty and 80-year-old grandfather) have had in a long time. Home to the world’s largest leopard population, until relatively recently Yala National Park was off the tourist radar thanks to its relative remoteness from better-known destinations. It is a seven-hour drive from Colombo’s international airport, and although there is a connecting flight to Mattala, drive at least one way and break the journey with a few nights’ stay in Galle.
An historic town with beautifully preserved colonial Dutch architecture and breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean, it has quaint little streets and shops stocking lovely jewellery set with semi-precious stones at a fraction of the retail prices in Hong Kong. We stayed in a converted colonial bungalow. The bathroom was a sectioned-off part of the garden (with modern sanitation, fortunately)
TRAVEL and my girls were thrilled whenever a bird joined them in the shower. From Galle, the park is a three-hour drive on winding roads. We broke the journey at a lovely restaurant, eating fresh seafood while powerful waves crashed onto the rocks only metres below. It happened more by luck than judgment, because we found its name – Dickwella – so funny we had to check it out. When we reached the Cinnamon Wild Yala hotel, the girls squealed with delight at the sight of an elephant trundling past reception. The hotel is on the cusp of the national park. A short flight of steps from the swimming pool, a natural lake is used by local wildlife as a watering hole and guests can observe all manner of animals from a raised observation deck. On our first evening, my husband ventured close to the lake to photograph crocodiles emerging from the water, only to beat a hasty retreat when a herd of wild boar showed up. The hotel largely comprises individual “jungle” chalets, set quite far apart from each other, and has an open-door policy for animals. One morning, a groggy grandfather opened his door to frantic knocking expecting to see his granddaughters but instead he was
Monkeys and deer are regular (non-paying) hotel guests
confronted by a group of excited monkeys, who could smell the bananas in his room. It was the highlight of his morning. Animals come into the open to hunt and it is recommended you go on safari either at daybreak or dusk (5.30am-8.30am or 3pm6pm). We were rather late for our first safari, only making it to the park at 6.30am, well after daybreak, but we managed to see lots of birds, the odd elephant, sambar deer and
lots of buffalo, We realised, however, that if we wanted to see more exciting animals, such as the famed Sri Lankan leopards, we would have to get up earlier. Watching herds of animals grazing on the open plains is an amazing experience, which even the best zoo does not prepare you for. Different species mix together in delightful profusion and a blaze of colours. When pelicans swooped down onto a
Animal-watch in style at the Cinnamon Wild Yala Hotel
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TRAVEL crocodile-filled lake, we held our breath waiting for powerful jaws to clamp down on unsuspecting feathers. When nothing happened, it was almost a shock to be reminded that animals are not constantly lying in wait for each other and only kill when they need to eat. It was touching to see a mother elephant feeding her calf and to witness her anxiety at our approach and attempt to herd her youngster to safety. And nothing brings you closer to the harsh reality of nature than to see an injured young boar limping along painfully, abandoned by the herd, easy pickings for predators. Ah yes, speaking of predators, the majestic and almost elusive is the Sri Lankan leopard. Yala has arguably the world’s largest population of leopards. There’s no guarantee you will see leopards galore on safari, but those willing to go out early or stay late, and wait patiently, are likely to be rewarded by seeing this magnificent creature in action. And sometimes, not quite where you might expect.
The children had a chance to see animals they way they should be seen, unfettered by captivity
Late one evening, we were heading back to our room when a lithesome leopard popped out from the foliage, metres from the hotel entrance. We may have been in a beautiful modern resort, but there was no better reminder that this was, above all, a jungle. Needless to say, the hotel recommends you use an escort whenever you leave your chalet and we strongly echo that sentiment. Not long after, our escort spotted a crocodile just a few feet away. It scrabbled off when he shone his torch on it, but it was sobering to consider what might
have happened had we been walking alone, which we had got into the habit of doing after a couple of nights. While staff are quick to mind guests to be vigilant, there have been no incidents at the hotel and the locals carry on their business side by side with the animals, not blinking an eyelid when a leopard is spotted outside the hotel or an elephant saunters past. It was difficult to leave. Unlike previous holidays, we had the sense of having learned something and we had a keener appreciation of wildlife, which we had previously taken for granted. The children had a chance to see animals the way they should be seen, unfettered by captivity. The majestic creatures left an indelible impression on this jaded traveller and a greater appreciation of the destructive forces of progress. For details of Cinnamon Wild Yala, visit www.cinnamonhotels.com. For Dickwella Surf Spray restaurant, visit www.brownshotels.com.
The watering hole: here be crocodiles
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Concordia International School Admission Office: Tel: +852 2789 9890 Fax: + 852 2392 8820 Email: office@concordiaintl.edu.hk 68 Begonia Road, Yau Yat Chuen, Kowloon, HK www.cihs.edu.hk
Invites Applications for Grades 7-12
• Small class size of 15 to 22 students per class • Interactive teaching program with Mac 1:1 Program • American-patterned school offering Grades 7-12 • Students write the PSAT, SAT, TOEFL and AP in High School
CONTACT US TODAY FOR MORE INFORMATION Email: office@concordiaintl.edu.hk EDB Reg. No. 21599
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FOOD
Cold comfort As the temperature soars, chill out with a sweet treat. By Pauline Cheung.
⅔ Dolci What: ⅔ Dolci refers to the fact that the desserts here are two-thirds as sweet as usual to cater to the Asian palate. The slow-churned gelato is apparently the most authentic in town. Try the Chocaholic, which comes topped with chocolate and raspberry crunchy bits and chocolate chips. For something lighter, go for the lychee and rose gelato, made just in time for summer. Price: A sugar waffle dessert cup is $98. Where: Shop 1, 1/F Manning House, 38-48 Queen’s Road Central, 2156 1680.
Oh! Cow What: The weird and wonderful creations at Oh! Cow have to be seen to be believed. Think brightly coloured and patterned cones, edible flower wafers, shards of blue “bubble sugar” and black ink shortbread. The Fire cone is a crowd favourite and comes with chocolate ice cream, topped with chocolate shortbread, candyfloss and liquid nitrogen frozen strawberries. Price: $42. Where: 32 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2886 0448.
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Cafe Aboong What: A Korean dessert joint selling enormous fish-shaped waffle cones, filled either with custard or red bean paste and topped with a swirl of froyo and a chocolate-dipped fruit skewer. This place is red-hot right now so be prepared to queue. Price: $35. Where: Shop G18, G/F, Yan On Building, 1 Kwong Wa Street, Mong Kok, 6194 9796.
Eyescream & Churros What: Need a bit of fried dough with your ice cream? Of course you do. Straight out of Korea, this heavenly combo of softserve ice cream and fresh crunchy churros (Spanish cinnamon-dusted doughnut sticks), drizzled in chocolate sauce, is to die for. Price: The signature combo is $38. Where: Shop B1, G/F, Tak Man Building, 29 Tak Man Street, Hung Hom.
Honey Creme What: This joint offers creamy soft-serve ice cream with innovative toppings, such as popcorn, honeycomb or even candyfloss made from organic sugar. Price: $32-$38. Where: 34 Lee Garden Road, Causeway Bay, 3525 1264.
Smile Yogurt and Dessert Bar What: The whole family will be smiling after a treat from this froyo stand. Choose a cup or crispy cone, or go all out with the signature parfaits - yogurt layered with fresh fruit, homemade crumbs, almonds, compote, jelly and other goodies. Price: $51-$68. Where: Shop 509, 5/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, 2811 8321.
Lola’s Ice Pops What: Ice cream too rich for you? Try a lolly from Lola’s Ice Pops instead. Handmade every day using natural ingredients and no chemicals, food colouring or additives, the flavours come in fun, innovative combos - think lemongrass ginger iced tea, raspberry cheesecake or blueberry coconut mint. Order online or find them at retailers citywide, including The Bottle Shop (G/F, 114 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung). Price: $300 for a pack of 10. Where: www.lolasicepops.com and www.hk.delivery.com.
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We’ve got beef at Braza
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FOOD
Grill Seekers Too hot to cook outdoors? Shreena Patel discovers eight barbecue restaurants with aircon.
Korean: Sorabol Head to Sorabol for delicious Korean barbecued food, excellent service and a lively atmosphere. The great service and generous portions make it a popular spot for family gatherings, and children will love cooking their meal themselves. The restaurant is known for its wang galbi - top-grade short ribs marinated overnight in a sweet soy-based sauce. The meat is brought out on the bone, then cut and cooked by your server, unless you prefer to do it yourself. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival Street, Causeway Bay, 2881 6823, www.sorabol.com.hk.
Grilled fish at Shoku
Japanese: Shoku Looking for something a little healthier? Try Shoku, which recently opened in The Pulse. Meat and seafood arrives daily from Japan and Vietnam (including scallops and hormone-free, free-range chicken wings) and is cooked on demand on an authentic Japanese Binchotan charcoal grill, the centrepiece of the restaurant. All barbecue items are grilled with nothing but volcanic salt and pepper, and there is a large selection of salads and fried rice, as well as Japanese ice cream for dessert. Families are welcome and private rooms are available for bigger groups. Booster seats are available. Perfect after a day at the beach. G/F, Shop 109, Beachfront, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, 2808 2333, www.shoku.hk.
Brazilian: Braza Hong Kong’s newest churrascaria - Brazilian steakhouse - serves up hearty fare in a warm and lively atmosphere, making it a great place for group gatherings. Take your time and enjoy the all-you-can-eat tableside service, where waiters bring over various cuts of meat, chicken and seafood straight from the charcoal grill. Just turn your table card to green whenever you get peckish and they’ll come running. This Rodizio style of dining is accompanied by house-baked Brazilian-style bread, appetisers and an ample salad bar. If you’re making the most of a parents’ night out, try washing it all down with a Caipirinha or three. Dinner is $388 per head, while children under five eat free. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2890 9268, www.diningconcepts.com/braza.
Shoku’s seafood counter Snacky bits at Braza
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FOOD American: 85 South For a taste of the deep South without crossing the Pacific, head to 85 South, Hong Kong’s first North Carolina-style barbecue restaurant. The menu is simple and good value for money, especially for Central. Must-trys are the pulled pork and the homemade lemonade. The atmosphere is casual (customers order at the counter) and family-friendly. Great if you’re out and about and need to grab a quick lunch. Go hungry and be prepared for kids to get messy. 6-10 Kau U Fong, Central, 2337 2078 (closed on Sundays), www.85south.hk.
Greek: Souvla Named after the classic Cypriot dish of charcoal barbecued meat skewers, Souvla is known for its Greekstyle lunches. Pile the family into one of the comfy round booths and enjoy multiple trips to the delicious salad and dessert buffet, as well as a selection of fish and meats from the spit. The lunch set is from $168 per head, available Monday to Friday. Alternatively, head to Souvla at the weekend to enjoy Rump ‘n’ Rooster, a
Greek-style carvery of roasted beef and spitroasted chicken, Saturdays and Sundays from noon ($295 per head). Beverage packages available; free corkage Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday. 1/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 4 D’Aguilar Street, Central, 2522 1823, www.conceptcreations.hk.
Mongolian: Nomads Everyone creates their own meal at this all-you-can-eat Mongolian feast that’s a longstanding family favourite. Pile your plate high with raw veggies, meat, noodles, sauces and other toppings, hand it to the chefs in the open kitchen and they’ll whip it up and bring it to your table. No whining if you don’t like it! High chairs available on request. The dinner buffet runs daily, 6.30-10.30pm ($238 for adults; $XXX for children).
Italian: DiVino Patio It’s the more the merrier at the restaurant’s Tuscan BBQ feast La Rosticciana Toscana, available Sundays and public holidays from 11.30am to
GIVING LIFE SHOULDN’T BE SO DEADLY Ramatoulaye, who lives in Burkina Faso, was about to give birth to her fourth child, but the boatman was nowhere to be found. Unable to get to the health centre across the river, she gave birth alone on the river banks. Maternal health is a human right — join Amnesty International to defend human rights for women like Ramatoulaye. Learn more at www.amnesty.org.hk.
© Anna Kari
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Top: Souvla; Bottom: Nomads
FOOD 3pm. For $368 per head, adults can gorge themselves on salads, bread, sweets and unlimited meat, seafood and vegetables from the spit. Free-flow options of wine, prosecco and champagne are available at an extra cost. Brunch costs $168 for children aged five to 12, including free-flow soda and orange juice and unlimited ice cream; under fives eat free. Be sure to ask for a children’s menu, which comes with a few games to keep the little ones entertained. Shop 11, 1/F, Causeway Centre, 28 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, 2877 3552, www.divinogroup.com.
Mediterranean: The Grill The Grand Hyatt’s alfresco poolside restaurant offers a barbecue dinner buffet every night, weather permitting, and features a selection of French Provencal and Mediterranean dishes, including chargrilled tiger prawns with chilli, beef short-ribs and a range of homemade sausages. There is also a wide choice of seafood on ice for those not as keen on barbecued meat, as well as a selection of
The Grill at the Grand Hyatt
fresh salads, cheeses and desserts ($558 per adult; $279 per child, Monday to Thursday). Alternatively, try the weekend barbecue brunch ($538 per adult; $269 per child), which features a fresh juice and smoothie station. Adults can relax and soak up the sun by the pool while children run riot in the playground. High chairs and beverage packages available. 11/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, 2584 7722, www.hongkong.grand. hyattrestaurants.com.
Raise the steaks Want to brave the open fire? Order your meat here: Farmers Kitchen, www.farrmerskitchen.com.hk Butcher’s Club, www.butchersclub.com.hk Invisible Kitchen, www.invisiblekitchen.com
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MONEY & ME
Eve Roth Lindsay The founder of wardrobe consultant Savvy Style explains why it pays to be prudent. By Shreena Patel.
An enterprising spirit: Eve advertised her designs at age 15
one season the factory we used damaged an entire season’s worth of clothing by using bad needles. Eventually it closed us down. It was soul destroying but I learnt a valuable lesson: never underestimate the importance of quality control and check everything. Don’t expect others to do it for you.
How did Savvy Style come about? As an international fashion designer I had to travel a lot. I wanted to spend more time with my family and less in an aeroplane. At the time, there weren’t many image advisers around and it was the perfect blend of doing what I loved most - fashion, style and helping people - in a new career.
drive were clear to see. Even then, we all knew she would be a success. Also, Ralph Lauren, who was a tutor at Parsons and whose ability to create a business around a concept I admire; Allan Zeman, my favourite boss, who makes a success out of everything he does; and my husband David Lindsay, who starts every day with a smile.
What is the most important thing to consider when starting a business? You need to love what you do because you will be working seven days a week. I thought I would have more time with my family when I started my business but when you work for yourself, you have to work twice as hard.
How much is in your wallet right now? $385. Who needs cash these days?
What is your main motto in business? This is my parents’ motto but it works for me too. “Find something you love to do every day and then figure out a way to get paid for it.” What was your first business venture? When I was 15, I put an advert in a newspaper to sell clothes: US$3 for a tailor-made skirt, US$4-5 for culottes and US$5 for a dress. I started making prom gowns at 16 and that was the beginning of my career. Who is your inspiration? Donna Karan, who was at Parsons School of Design while I was there and whose talent and
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Are you a spender or a saver? I save so I can spend. What was your best investment? Buying my first flat in Hong Kong in 1986. What is the best frugal thing you have ever bought? My first sewing machine which I bought used for US$9.95 when I was 12 years old. How much did you earn last year? Are you kidding? Do you honestly think I am going to tell you that? When were you poorest? My sister, Annie, and I had a maternity business in New York called Annie Had A Baby. I designed the clothes; Annie had the babies and did the selling. We were very successful but
What is the most extravagant thing you have ever bought? My vintage little red convertible MGB. What was your worst investment? My vintage little red convertible MGB. What was your best paid work? Funnily enough, it was my best unpaid work. I did a job with a company that went belly-up and couldn’t pay me. Instead, they offered my family a week in a gorgeous flat on the beach in Surfer’s Paradise, Australia, with a car. It was much better than getting paid in cash. Do you have any advice on teaching children about money? Save, save, save. Teach them young to save a portion of their allowance or any income they get, even their lai see. For example, tell them to put one-quarter into savings, give one-quarter to charity and spend the rest. A good trick is to have them draw a picture of something they want and stick it on a jar. They will watch the jar fill up and, once full, they can use the money to buy the desired item. It’s easy to give your children money but it is not necessarily the best thing for them. Teach them to earn money doing something they love and they will grow into happy, responsible adults. Savvy Style offers personal and corporate image consulting as well as image consultant training, www.savvystyle.com.
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COLUMN
As Simon Parry and his brood move house, he looks back on his first family home in Hong Kong.
S
eventeen years ago, as new arrivals in Hong Kong, we moved with our eight-month-old daughter Georgie into a semi-derelict traditional Chinese house at the end of a terrace of deserted Hakka homes at the far end of Sai Kung Country Park. God only knows why. It was an empty, echoing, unloved building with holes in the roof and the floors and water running down the walls. It took six weeks make it remotely habitable. There were regular floods from the hillside, the power supply was erratic and the builders were startled by a nest of cobras hiding in a corner of the kitchen. Our only neighbour on the terrace was a kindly old Hakka woman in her late 80s who wore traditional clothes, fed skinny, wild-eyed feral cats with fish heads from the market, and bought sugared buns for Georgie on her twice-weekly expeditions into Sai Kung on the 94 bus. We were 20 minutes’ drive from the nearest shop and an hour from my office. But we had space, fresh air, wonderful views across the bay to Sharp Peak and best of all, a long low-walled terrace that ran in front of not only our house but all the derelict homes beside us. Gradually – with paint, and the gradual accruement of the furniture and fittings of family life – the house became a home not just for the three of us but for Lauren, James and William, who, like Georgie, would take their first wobbling steps on that ramshackle terrace. We did a lot of our living outdoors. That terrace was the setting for dozens of riotous children’s birthday parties, scores of long lazy Sunday lunches, and more than a dozen outdoor Christmas Day dinners where we feasted on turkey in the sunshine with Slade and Wizzard on the CD player and a Christmas tree sparkling incongruously inside. It was on that terrace that our children splashed happily for hours in paddling pools and jumped endlessly on trampolines while Hazel and me nonchalantly sipped drinks between shrieks of “Mummy …”. It was from that terrace that our children set out in varying degrees of terror and excitement on their first days of little
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school and big school, and, much later, first dates. That terrace was the scene of shouting and laughter, epic fights, grazed knees and gashed foreheads, ambitious amateur theatrical productions and film nights with a big screen and a projector on starry autumn evenings. Not only my family but other animals joined in the riot of daily living. Monkeys would swing by to steal food from the table outdoors and filch bananas from the kitchen table. Feral cows occasionally meandered in and Dave the Snake Catcher (a regular caller) once found a king cobra slithering lazily by outside. We always knew the day would come when the terrace would be demolished and new modern homes put in their place – the family that owns the plots and now live in the UK had talked of it almost from the day we moved in – but we always hoped their prevarication would outlive the childhoods of our four. It very nearly did. For years, I couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. Five years ago we found a house to move to on a longer lease but changed our minds at the last minute. I couldn’t bear the thought of someone else living there and realising we might have stayed just a little longer. Then at last it happened. The bulldozers arrived almost without warning and began demolishing the homes next to us last year. The terrace was reduced to a cement-caked building site. On June 1, we packed our things and left. We flew away for a week’s holiday to recover from the trauma of moving. Then we went warily back to Tai Tan collect a few last items left behind. I dreaded the return, expecting to find the place haunted by lifetimes of memories I couldn’t bear to walk away from. To my surprise and melancholy relief, there were no ghosts: Just a deserted terrace covered in builders’ debris and an empty, echoing, unloved house with water running down the walls. It was as dead and soulless as it had been the day we first stepped inside 17 years ago. Our lives had bounced off the walls and terrace but they hadn’t imprinted themselves on the fabric. We had left nothing behind.
We were 20 minutes’ drive from the nearest shop, but we had space, fresh air and wonderful views across the bay.
Simon Parry is a jaded, middle-aged journalist and father of four. He lives in Hong Kong.