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August
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The really useful magazine AUGUST 2015
PEOPLE 2 Snapped! Sai Kung’s social life. THE PLANNER 6 Happening in August Things to do this month. NEWS
FIVE MINUTES WITH... 16 Catwoman Hong Kong Cats’ Emily Pereira. LOCAL 18 Power to the people How to change your world. NEWS FROM THE GREENS
10 What’s going on? In your backyard. LETTERS 12 Have your say Hash goes on-on, plus changes you’d like to see in Sai Kung. GIVEAWAYS 14 Free stuff Fab things to win.
20 Ugly plans for Hiram’s Highway Paul Zimmerman has seen the future. FEATURE 22 Readers’ Choice Awards And the winners are...
EATING 38 Putting the Kung into K-Town Sai Kung’s restaurants head west. Plus Nibbles. OUTDOORS 42 WasSUP? Blue Sky’s new toys. BIG DAY OUT 46 Footprints in the sand Sai Kung’s best beaches all in one day.
PETS 52 Pack mentality The group dynamics of dog world. HONG KONG CREATURES 52 Yellowtail Clownfish Find Nemo. VINES IN SAI KUNG 60 Braced for gridlock That’s right, more traffic.
TRAVEL 48 Freewheeling through Asia Are you up for a cycling challenge?
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“THE CHIEF VALUE OF MONEY LIES IN THE FACT IN THAT ONE LIVES IN A WORLD IN WHICH IT IS OVERESTIMATED.” – H.L. MENCKEN
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people Snaps from Sai Kung
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say cheese
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people
Photographs: Hunt Smith
Summer camps – Treasure Island
Summer camps – Hong Kong Academy
Share your event photos with us at photo@fastmedia.com.hk. Get snapping!
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planner
AUG 22-24
Slide the City
Experience the 1,000-foot water slide of your life at Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, Kowloon. Over-eights only; minimum height 117cm. Tickets $150 (single slide) to $480 (unlimited and night slides) from www.slidethecity.hk.
AUG 2 Wan Chai Sports Carnival
UNTIL AUG 9 Hong Kong Restaurant Week
A free sports day for all ages, including kickboxing and cycling in Paterson Street, dancing and ping-pong at the Wan Chai Sports Federation, and a community run at Causeway Bay Sports Ground. 2.30pm-5pm, 2833 0935, www.fashionwalk.com.hk.
Wrap your taste buds around discounted special menus at 73 restaurants, including Azure, Wooloomooloo Steakhouse and Bread Street Kitchen. Details at www.restaurantweek.hk.
AUG 8 The Global Run Lace up your running shoes for the second annual 10km Amazing Maasai Global Run in aid of girls’ education in Kenya. Yuen Wo Road Sports Centre, Sha Tin, www.eventbrite.com.
AUG 8-9 Lan Kwai Fong Beer & Music Festival Food, music, interactive games and fine beers all weekend in Lan Kwai Fong, www.lankwaifong.com.
AUG 13-17 Hong Kong Food Expo Feast on food and drink from around the world, watch cooking demos and visit the night market. Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, www.hktdc.com.
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happening in August AUG 14-16 Asian Youth Orchestra: Celebrating 25 Years of Excellence Cantopop legend Alan Tam, young musicians and alumni celebrate 25 years of the Asian Youth Orchestra. Hong Kong Coliseum, Hung Hom. Tickets $100-$350 from www..urbtix.hk, 2111 5999.
UNTIL AUG 16 International Arts Carnival Annual children’s arts festival, with music, dance, drama, magic and acrobatic performances. Schedule at www.hkiac.gov.hk. Tickets from www.urbtix.hk, 2111 5999.
AUG 17 Back to school Autumn term begins at ESF schools.
AUG 21-23 International Design Furniture Fair Hong Kong Asia’s biggest furniture fair. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai. One-day ticket from $190 at www.hkticketing.com.
AUG 19-23 DisneyLive! Mickey’s Music Festival Mickey Mouse and friends remix your favourite Disney hits. Star Hall, KITEC, Kowloon Bay. Tickets $180-$680 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
AUG 23 Imagine Dragons: Smoke + Mirrors The Radioactive boys hit town. AsiaWorld-Arena, Lantau. Tickets $288-$788 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
AUG 28-30, SEP 4-6 Pinocchio A brand new show about the fibbing puppet from The Hong Kong Ballet. Grand Theatre, Cultural Centre, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tickets $140$1,000 from www.hkballet.com, 3761 6661.
AUG 29 Toy Story: Sai Kung Open-Air Cinema Postponed from last month owing to bad weather, catch Buzz, Woody and the gang on the outdoor screen. 6pm. The Hive, 5 Tai Mong Tsai Road, Sai Kung. Tickets $120, including popcorn and a drink, from events@thehive.com.hk, 2780 5844.
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planner UNTIL AUG 30 Frozen Village Play in the snow this summer with Elsa, Anna and Olaf at the enchanting Frozen village. Hong Kong Disneyland, www.hongkongdisneyland.com, 3550 3388.
UNTIL AUG 30 Ocean Park Summer Splash 2015 Get wet with the LINE friends at summer’s soggiest party, complete with water slide, water fights, foam party and dancing fountain. Ocean Park, Aberdeen, www.oceanpark.com.hk, 3923 2323.
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planner
BOOK NOW
SEP 15-20 The Naked Magicians
SEP 30 Don’t Let Daddy Know
Full-frontal illusions – not quite as saucy as it sounds. Drama Theatre, HKAPA, Wan Chai. Tickets $395$595 at www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
The global dance party lands in Hong Kong. 5pm-11pm, AsiaWorld Expo, Lantau. Earlybird tickets $580 (by Aug 2), $780 (by Aug 30), $980 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
SEP 4 Maroon 5 World Tour
SEP 16-20 Louis Pearl The Amazing Bubble Man
OCT 5 Al Murray One Man, One Guvnor
Sold out, so you’ll need to be resourceful. AsiaWorld-Arena, Lantau. Tickets were $488$988 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
Art, magic, science and bubbles. Drama Theatre, HKAPA, Wan Chai. Tickets $395$550 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
Stand-up comedy from the Pub Landlord. Rotunda 3, KITEC, Kowloon Bay. Tickets $488-$788 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
SEP 4-5 World Darts Masters
SEP 25-26 Bon Jovi Live In Macau
OCT 12 Beyond the Barricade
Hong Kong joins the global darts circuit. Ironmonger Darts Hall, Hong Kong Observation Wheel, Central. Tickets $499 from www.ticketflap.com, 2973 0372.
Rocking CotaiArena, The Venetian Macao. Tickets $580-$3,688 from 6333 6660 , www.cotaiticketing.com.
A medley of songs from Les Mis, Phantom, Jersey Boys and more. Lyric Theatre, HKAPA, Wan Chai. Tickets $445-$895 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
SEP 3 Dylan Moran Off the Hook Stand-up comedy from the Black Books star. Rotunda, KITEC, Kowloon Bay. Tickets $488$888 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
SEP 4-6 Shakespeare’s Globe: Hamlet Performing Hamlet in every country on Earth. Lyric Theatre, HKAPA, Wan Chai. Tickets $395$795 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
SEP 25-OCT 11 Singin’ in the Rain Brollies, buckets of rain and soggy coppers. Lyric Theatre, HKAPA, Wan Chai. Tickets $445-995 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
NOV 24 Elton John: All the Hits Join the Rocket Man for a romp down memory lane. HKCEC, Wan Chai. Tickets $488-$2,388 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk.
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news Hotel plans for paint factory
The long-shuttered paint factory next to the Esso petrol station on Hiram’s Highway could be demolished and replaced by a new hotel. An application to redevelop the site – which is technically at 7-9 Hong Ting Road – has been lodged with the Town Planning Board. Under the plan, the two existing industrial buildings will be replaced by two eight-storey towers, with a podium-level outdoor swimming
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pool and 294 guest rooms. The proposal envisages the project would be completed by 2020. A meeting to consider the planning application has been scheduled for September 4 and will be open to the public (excluding the deliberation). Seats must be reserved in advance and are allocated on a first-come-firstserved basis. For details, visit bit.ly/1VKR26F.
in your backyard
Underwater snapper
Snack attack Sai Kung-based photographer Simon Lorenz has found an interesting niche for family photos: underwater portraits. The former PADI dive instructor is getting a lot of buzz for his pool portraits of brides, babies, yoga poses and even pregnancy shots. Nothing is out of the question, he says. Lorenz will come to the pool of your choice, don his scuba gear and dive in for a photography session with a difference.
Prices start at $3,000 for babies (plus an extra $1,000 for each additional baby) and $5,000 for adults, whose sessions usually last much longer. Lorenz typically provides 20-40 quickly edited pictures. After picking your favourites, he will brush up five image and provide them in high resolution digital format. He can also arrange printing and framing if desired. For details, visit www.poolportrait.com.
Local schools score top marks Hong Kong schools continue to outperform schools worldwide in the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma. Of 141,800 students who sat the exams globally, only 160 were awarded a perfect score of 45, and of those 27 were from Hong Kong. Perfect scores were achieved by 15 ESF
students – including four from Sha Tin College, two from King George V School, and one from Renaissance College. One student at the Hong Kong Chinese Christian Churches Union Logos Academy in Tseung Kwan O also scored the top mark. Congratulations to all the students and teachers on great results.
Colour Brown Coffee leaves town After a decade of perking up the old town, popular cafe Colour Brown Coffee is closing its Sai Kung location and moving to Jordan. We can thank rising rents for the departure of this much-loved coffee specialist, which has been on See Cheung Street since 2005. “It is a pity to close the shop in Sai Kung,” says business development manager, Vivian
Kwong. “After all, we do have quite a few regulars who drop by several times a week for a coffee or just to say hello to our dogs.” However, its house-roasted speciality coffees will still be available via its online store and at its new location: G/F, Kwun Chung Street, Jordan, 2791 7128, www.colourbrown.com.
Long-time Sai Kung resident and lover of Japanese food, Tina Lam, has opened QQ Sweet House right above Classified in the centre of town. Selling all variety of Japanese snack food, from baby snacks and candy, to drinks, nuts and and dried squid, Lam hopes to satisfy the tastebuds of an increasingly diverse population in Sai Kung. Visit the shop and spend over $100 or show that you liked the Facebook page to get a free snack. M/F, 1 Sha Tsui Path, 9857 7841.
Bumps to Babes moves into the square Great news for parents: Bumps to Babes is opening a branch in Sai Kung. Hong Kong-born and bred, the children’s superstore is a godsend to parents with small children, stocking everything the under-sixes might need: maternity products, baby food, strollers, toys, cribs, clothes, nappies, car seats, you name it... Bumps to Babes’ other stores win kudos with parents for knowledgeable staff who understand their stock and can offer practical, commonsense advice on the products on sale. And the store is promising more of the same for Sai Kung. It opens in mid-August in Sai Kung’s main square, in the former bank near the basketball court, and will be open daily. G/F, 7 Wan King Path, Sai Kung, 2552 5000, www.bumpstobabes.com.
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letters
have your say “Planning – not building huge housing developments without road infrastructure. PCCW to invest their huge profits in installing infrastructure for faster broadband in village areas.” Doug Edward
Hash goes on-on Hash update: after the ab-fab coverage of the Sai Kung Saturday Hash House Harriers in Sai Kung Magazine (Health & Beauty, June 2015), I am very pleased to say we had a wonderful response and now have many new members. The run on July 11 was attended by about 40 runners (including two dogs and a baby). Hashers were quickly taken into the hills to High Junk Peak then down through some wonderful jungle to Hang Hau and a local private kitchen. Our next run is on August 22 and details can be found on our Facebook page (Sai Kung Saturday Hash House Harrier, www.facebook. com/groups/169084189943292/). Helen Brighton, SK2H3
In the Readers’ Choice Awards, we asked: what would make life in Sai Kung better?
“Park & ride for visitors.” Mari Taylor
“Less traffic, more walking and cycling areas.” Robert Fleck
“Nothing – Sai Kung’s perfect, and I truly mean it!” Ella Coxon
“Planning and regulations with enforced penalties, rent controls for small businesses.” Sheila Damodaran
“Less traffic, more car-pooling, ferry service to Central.” Karina Turnbull “A lick of paint to Sai Kung town.” Julie Clark
“For the Lands Department to enforce their signs: ‘Unauthorized occupation/dumping is prohibited. Any offender may be prosecuted.’” Jodi Moran “More outdoor tables in Sai Kung Square, and have a night when all [the restaurants] club together and have music in the square.” Lynne Hutton
“Outdoor dining without threat of FEHD officers coming round to spoil the fun.” Ann Williams “Park and ride, pedestrianise the loop road around McDonald’s, huge fines and tow-away schemes for illegal parking, lower car-park charges and, finally... change the football pitch from concrete to astroturf!” Keith Holder
Email your photos or letters to editorial@fastmedia.com.hk. We may edit for length. Or tag us, #saikungmag on social media!
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free stuff
win at www.saikung.com
Sugar HK Sugar is a city discovery app designed to help you find deals at F&B and lifestyle spots around Hong Kong. This month, Sugar is giving away $50 to all new users, plus an extra $100 credit to Sai Kung Magazine readers, to spend at its carefully curated list of more than 150 venues, such as The Butchers Club, Little Burro and Munchies. Download from the App store or Google Play store, or visit: www.hk.wewantsugar.com Deadline: August 31
The Social Place + Sugar HK Social Place offers contemporary Chinese dim sum and dishes that feature fresh, quality ingredients. This month, in partnership with Sugar, Social Place is offering a degustation dinner for two people, valued at $1,000. socialplace.hk Deadline: August 20
Pirata + Sugar HK A cosy Italian restaurant in Wan Chai, Pirata takes pride in being true to the Italian philosophy of food, emphasising fresh ingredients and simple recipes. This month, in partnership with Sugar, Pirata is offering dinner for two valued at up to $1,000 (note: booking must be made 10 days in advance). pirata.hk Deadline: August 20
Squarestreet Local brand Squarestreet offers Scandinavianinfluenced products that emphasise simplicity, functionality and quality. This month we are giving away three pairs of its signature handmade sunglasses, each valued at $600. These sunglasses blend classic references and fresh thinking, giving a subtle nod to early 80s Ray-Ban frames, but with a fresh, colourful twist. www.15squarestreet.com Deadline: August 24
To enter, click the Giveaways tab on our website, www.saikung.com. Deadlines vary.
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local
change your world
Editorial
Senior Consultant Editor Jane Steer jane@fastmedia.com.hk Acting Editor Callum Wiggins callum@fastmedia.com.hk Shreena Patel shreena@fastmedia.com.hk Digital Editor Annie Wong annie@fastmedia.com.hk
Design
Art Director Kelvin Lau kelvin@fastmedia.com.hk Senior Graphic Designer Jack Yip jack@fastmedia.com.hk
Thanks to Adele Brunner Arshia Bhatia Carolynne Dear Paul Zimmerman Pauline Cheung Rory Mackay Sally Andersen Steffi Yuen Stephen Vines
Publisher Tom Hilditch tom@fastmedia.com.hk
Published by
Fast Media Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Design by: Kelvin Lau
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Development in areas such as Wong Chuk Yeung is one issue angering readers.
Power to the people Gridlock, village development, alfresco licences… Callum Wiggins finds out how to create change. Hundreds of you voted in our annual Readers’ Choice Awards and told us about the things you would like to change about Sai Kung. Development in villages, the crackdown on alfresco restaurant tables and weekend traffic jams came up as issues that many of you would like to do something about. So how can individuals bring about change? Experienced lobbyist and District Councillor Paul Zimmerman believes individuals and pressure groups have real power to make a difference. “For immediate concerns over specific development plans, individuals need to make sure they understand the process, the state of play, and the next steps in the approval process,” he says. “Based on this, they need
Groups with a clear interest and motivation can be very successful to draw up an action plan and create an alliance of like-minded individuals and organisations. “For policy issues, individuals need to study the background, speak with and write to relevant government departments to ask for information and to identify the line they take. It is always good to have alternative solutions and not just simply object. With elections ahead, engage politicians who want the votes.” One group currently campaigning on a range of ecological and historical concerns
is the Alliance for a Beautiful Hong Kong (ABHK). The charitable organisation has launched numerous campaigns, including a bid to prevent the redevelopment of an historic mansion at 27 Lugard Road on The Peak. As well as submitting objections to development applications through official routes, the group has gathered close to 140,000 signatures from walkers on Lugard Road. Experienced campaigner Katty Law says groups such as ABHK face many challenges. “Contacting government departments is not easy and sometimes receiving a response can take weeks,” she says. “We want the government to be more transparent and consider alternatives that take into account both historical sites and greenbelt land.” In Sai Kung, reducing traffic is a major concern and many readers are angry about developments threatening Sai Kung’s historical heritage, such as the development of abandoned Wong Chuk Yeung village – currently sealed off with “No Trespass” signs as the land is bulldozed for an “organic farm”. Another bugbear was the difficulty of obtaining outdoor eating licenses and the way officials appear to target certain businesses. And then there’s the rent increases, which continue to shut down local businesses. Developments that threaten Sai Kung’s country parks and greenbelt land, such as those that feature in Stephen Vines’ monthly column, are also striking a chord. While making your voice heard can be difficult, especially through the thick fog of government bureaucracy, Zimmerman says it can be done. “Groups with a clear interest and motivation can be very successful. Those with energy and those who are persistent.” To raise awareness about issues impacting your community, email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk or call us at 2776 2773.
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catwoman
Emily Pereira It’s not just dogs that need rescuing, the Hong Kong Cats’ founder tells Pauline Cheung. I moved to Hong Kong about six years ago and I lived with my boyfriend and his family in MidLevels. I didn’t like the vibe there. However, five years ago we moved to Tan Cheung in Sai Kung. I fell in love with the town and the people and haven’t looked back. I fall in love with Sai Kung’s beauty every day. My favourite thing is being out on the water, I am a passionate dragonboater. I really like the community – everyone is friendly here. I started Hong Kong Cats because I noticed there were many groups helping the dogs, but no other organisation in Sai Kung helping the cats, apart from the SPCA.
You’d be surprised how many kittens are abandoned
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In our village, my neighbours would feed the cats and often found cats dumped and sometimes injured. I began taking cats in and was able to adopt them out through a Hong Kong Cats Facebook page. Things escalated as I became more aware of the passion that my neighbours have for the local cat colony. They would feed them every day and even give them names as if they were their own pets. At the same time, I became aware of how easily cats, through no fault of their own, could be removed with one phone call to the AFCD. I have always liked animals, but I chose to help cats because of
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Emily Pereira with just a few of the kittens and cats that need homes.
the strays that need to be cared for. You’d be surprised how many kittens are abandoned. Sai Kungers have been very supportive. If I put out a plea on Facebook for anything, I always have replies offering help. I have developed a strong network of foster homes and have successfully re-homed more than 70 cats, largely in Sai Kung. I am a volunteer for my village under the SPCA’s Cat Colony Care Programme, which helps
desex and microchip stray cats. All the cats in Tan Cheung are now desexed, and my plan is to continue this by helping cats in other villages in Sai Kung. If anyone is struggling to look after a cat, I would like them to contact Hong Kong Cats instead of abandoning it. Likewise, if anyone finds an abandoned cat, instead of walking by please contact us for help. For details, please visit www.facebook.com/saikungcat.
news from the greens
lobby for change
Ugly plan for Hiram’s Highway Paul Zimmerman has seen the future – and it’s not pretty. large new developments. To scale back these existing plans and make sure the road becomes a pleasant feature of the built environment is a tough battle. Residents should query why development is proceeding at such a rapid pace before the roadworks have been completed, not least because the roadworks will also impact traffic. The government is unrelenting in rolling forward development schemes, irrespective of whether roads and transport infrastructure can handle additional traffic. Hiram’s Highway is overloaded and nearly impossible to navigate during morning commutes and at weekends. Yet land sales, new hotel and residential developments in the area are moving ahead quickly. The quality of life for existing residents and the experience for visitors will suffer with ever more congestion. Approved zoning plans for Sai Kung area identify land for widening Hiram’s Highway and
Query why development is proceeding... before the roadworks With the District Council elections coming up, residents should push existing councillors and candidates for answers. Given the congestion, not all residents want to fight the wider road, however much they hate it. But take a close look at the design details. The plans have no cycling tracks, but include more tall noise barriers – steel beams with plastic sheets between them. Instead of
roadside planters with low granite walls, there will be concrete and steel crash barriers. Yes, from a rustic country road, Hiram’s Highway will come to reflect its name in an ugly way. The funding for widening the first section of road (near the junction with Clearwater Bay Road and past Marina Cove) has just been approved by the Legislative Council – so now is the time for residents to question design details. The Transport Department will claim it follows guidelines set out in the Transport Planning and Design Manual. Don’t be fooled – it can change the look of the road as long as the design speed is kept at 50km/h. The District Councillors want your vote, let them work for it. Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
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feature
And the winners are… The votes are in for the 2015 Readers’ Choice Awards. These are your favourite places and services in the Kung.
Best Beach Tai Long Wan We never tire of this view, and it seems, neither do you. Voted best beach for the third time, this string of beautiful beaches in Sai Kung Country Park has lost none of its sparkle. Soft white sand, astonishing jade-green sea, just enough surf to be fun, but not (usually) enough to be scary, natural mountain setting, cold beers (at Ham Tin and Sai Wan) and plenty of space for everybody on even the busiest Sunday. No wonder you love it. However, its beauty has not been lost on the developers, who have long had their eyes on Tai Long Wan. In 2010, campaigners saw off millionaire Simon Lo’s bulldozers, which chewed up 10,000 sqm of pristine land in the country-park enclave of Tai Long Sai Wan – Lo claimed he was building an organic farm, but villagers alleged the plan was for a lodge and gardens. And this year, the family of AFCD official Thomas Sit applied unsuccessfully to build five houses at Ham Tin under the Small House Policy. This was swiftly followed by an application for an even bigger development by Tuenbo Group. So far, reason has prevailed and Tai Long Wan’s beauty has been preserved. Let’s hope future pictures of the area remain bulldozer-free. Get there the hard way with local adventurer Rory Mackay, who plots a hike for hardcore beachgoers (Big Day Out, p.46) from Long Ke Wan – another vote-winner – to Tai Long Wan.
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readers’ choice awards
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feature
Best New Restaurant Chinese Kitchen It was a close-run race, but this year’s Best New Restaurant is spicy newcomer Chinese Kitchen. It has put a bit of fire into the local restaurant scene with its Hunan cuisine – a rare ethnic Chinese offering amid Sai Kung’s plethora of same-same Cantonese seafood joints and a welcome change of pace on Man Nin Square. “When we decided to open a restaurant, we wanted to bring something different and interesting to Sai Kung,” says owner Dave Ranson. “One of the main challenges was introducing Hunan food to a market where there was not a lot of knowledge of that type of cuisine.” Like neighbouring Sichuan cuisine,
Best Restaurant
ups and downs,” says owner James Bradshaw. “It’s a difficult business that relies on good people. We pay almost three times the minimum wage and all staff get two days off, we’re aiming for a four-day working week.” The menu has evolved over the past two years. As well as traditional Spanish tapas dishes, it now includes small bites from around the world – Japan, Mexico, the US – with a strong vegetarian menu. “We don’t confine ourselves in any way, we don’t let a single country define our food. We’re always changing and trying to improve things,” Bradshaw says. After fine-tuning the Casa concept, the team is spreading its wings with the opening of a second branch in Kennedy Town last month (see p.38). And there are more new projects on the horizon, including Vietnamese tapas and wine… Don’t mind if we do. Open daily, 11am-11pm. Shop 1, Hoi Pong Square, Sai Kung, 5594 0007.
and Bar Casa
Last year’s Best New Restaurant, Casa wins two categories in 2015: Best Restaurant and Best Bar. (Some of you also voted for Casa as Best New Restaurant again this year, but we disqualified it from that category because it’s two years old.) Trendy decor, genuine service, good food and a relaxed atmosphere have proved to be a winning combination. Since opening near the waterfront in summer 2013, Casa has gone from strength to strength, but it hasn’t been entirely smooth sailing. Witness its ongoing struggle to get an outdoor licence. “The past year has been stressful, lots of
What cuisine would you like to see come to Sai Kung?
4%
4%
3% 3% Thai
Spanish
Vegetarian Middle Eastern
27%
Japanese
Congratulations to the runners-up
5%
Korean
6%
French
8%
Indian
16%
Vietnamese
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24%
Mexican
Mandy’s Caribbean Kitchen
readers’ choice awards
Best Cafe
Hunanese food features a lot of chilli heat. To make sure the food was authentic, Chinese Kitchen employed two chefs from Hunan, who can be seen cooking up a storm in the open kitchen. The chefs are willing to adjust spice levels without compromising the authenticity of the dishes. Those with a taste for the numbing peppers should try the house speciality: steamed fish head with chilli. For something less spicy, choose braised pork belly with preserved vegetables. There have been a few changes since Chinese Kitchen opened in October 2014, including a split among the original partners. And Ranson has plenty of plans for the future. “We are looking to develop our menu further and offer more choices, bringing out a few vegetarian and non-spicy Hunan dishes,” he says. “We have a lot of new ideas.” Open daily, 11am-11pm.16 Wan King Path, Sai Kung, 2191 2498, www.facebook.com/cksaikung.
Classified Voted your favourite cup of coffee for the second year in a row is Classified, and manager Connie Law is feeling proud. “I’m sure the customers feel comfortable, not only trusting the quality of coffee and food we deliver but also our service,” she says. “We treat them like our family, making them feel our restaurant is their second kitchen.” A popular breakfast spot, the cafe’s allday menu includes eggs benedict, almond croissants, club sandwich, and a children’s menu. Its carrot cake is a big hit, with many readers giving it a special mention. “As the years pass, we try to keep our guests happy by being flexible and catering to their feedback,” Law says. New this summer: healthy smoothies made from organic fruit and superfoods such as wheatgrass, spirulina and chia seed. Open daily, 8am-midnight. 5 Sha Tsui Path, Sai Kung, 2529 3454, www.classifiedfood.com.
Best Food Delivery South Stream Seafoods
Big Fish
Celebrating its 25th anniversary, South Stream Seafoods shows no signs of slowing down. Cofounder Bradley White is thrilled to come out on top once again. “Sai Kungers are generally people that like nature and things natural. I’d like to think South Stream fits right in with that ethos by delivering
great natural and organic food,” he says. “South Stream celebrated it’s 25th anniversary this year. While there have been more than a few ups and downs, we’re exceptionally pleased to reach this milestone. “Not one to rest on our laurels, South Stream is looking at a couple of strategic partnerships, which will bring even more tasty goodies to Sai Kung’s tables. We’d like to express our thanks to all those that support us week in and week out. We love growing along with our customer’s growing families.” www.south-stream-seafoods.com, 2555 6200.
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feature
Best place for a first kiss
On the lips This was the most popular answer – guess we walked right into that one. Here are some other places you’d like to get smoochy.
“On the swings in the playground in the square after midnight.” Lou Adams
“The Boozer at 3am.” Jon Martin
“On the rocks at the end of Sai Kung Pier.” Reena Eser
“Strolling in the quiet parks of Sai Kung with the beautiful trees rustling around you.” Ella Coxon
“On a hired sampan among the islands.” Yvette Robeck
“Sha Ha Beach at sunset – if someone decides to clean it.” Sabine Wolf
“Fuk Man Park.” Paula King
“On a speed boat at dusk coming back to Sai Kung.” Diane Archer
“Top of Chuk Yeung Road.” Lesley Croft
“Hebe One O One, rooftop at sunset.” Jodi Moran
“Under the arch into the old town.” Karina Slattery
Best Workout The Studio The sociable hub of Sai Kung’s fitness scene for over a decade, The Studio has been voted Best Workout 2015. It certainly offers lots of choice, with a range of classes and activities for different needs and fitness abilities, including Pilates, Hatha yoga, prenatal yoga, Zumba and even family taekwondo and hapkido classes on Sunday afternoons. For something more intense, try a TRX training session – sweaty but effective.
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The Studio’s classes aim to strengthen, sculpt and increase flexibility and are held throughout the week with day and night classes. Good news for those who don’t want to commit to a never-ending gym membership, The Studio does not offer long-term memberships preferring five- or 10-session packages ($750-$1,500) and – joy! – it welcomes walk-ins ($160). Private and small-group sessions can be arranged for Pilates or personal training. Schedules change regularly, visit the website for updates. Open daily, 1/F, 28 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 9705, new.thestudiosaikung.com.
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Best Homeware Store Shun Kee City Houseware (aka Harrods)
Best Local Band The Pineapple Jam With more live music sessions than ever in Sai Kung, our first Best Local Band award goes to local bluegrass folk band, The Pineapple Jam. Guitarist George Derisley was surprised at the news. “It’s because of our big bushy beards,” he guessed. Nope, it’s because they’re good. The name came about after the band – suckers for a pun – played on Pineapple Hill. Formed in 2014, they cite as an influence Sai Kung band The Village Dogs, who they jam
with from time to time. The Pineapple Jam play regularly at Casa’s live music nights (every other Wednesday), rocking up with guitars, banjos, mandolins, harmonicas and various other instruments to play covers of the likes of Bob Dylan as well as their own original songs. They welcome song requests, but have a strict noJustin-Bieber rule. The band – Derisley, Simon Thomson, Alex Nellist, percussionist Holly Booth and vocalist Kira Albarus – have played the occasional gig in Central and they hope to one day grace the Clockenflap stage. Derisley says a possible concert with other Sai Kung bands is in the works... stay tuned. For details, visit the band’s Facebook page (www.facebook.com/thepineapplejam).
Best Sports Team Sai Kung Stingrays Sai Kung Stingrays has a lot to celebrate: a successful season, the club’s 10th anniversary and now its second Readers’ Choice Award. The club was founded by a small group of parents from Clearwater Bay and Sai Kung – take a bow, Kevin and Fiona Overton – with training at Tai Po Tsai before landing a regular Sunday session in Sai Kung. It has quickly grown to become one of the most prominent mini and youth rugby clubs in Hong Kong and has become a force to be reckoned with at tournaments, with players from four to late teens, and strong boys’ and girls’ teams. Minis chairperson Fiona Saunders says, “Winning the Readers’ Choice Awards is a reflection of just how integrated we are into the local community. We provide not only a sports
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activity but a wider family environment for our members.” With plans to expand, Sai Kung Stingrays are looking forward to an even bigger and better season this year. For details, visit www.saikungstingrays.org.
Where would we be without it? Long established and hugely popular, Shun Kee City Houseware – fondly nicknamed Harrods after the London department store with the motto “All things for all people, everywhere” – wins your votes for favourite homeware store. “Business is great!” says manager Mr Wong. “We have something for everyone. What do we sell? Look around your office or home: everything you can see, we sell.” And the rest: we’re talking swimming pools, pet accessories, lightbulbs, chopsticks, coolboxes, tents, crockery, bamboo steamers, tools, Tupperware and plastic boxes in every shape, size and colour imaginable. Then there’s the special stock for Christmas, Lunar New Year, Easter, summer, Mid-Autumn Festival, Halloween… “Harrods has been operating for over 50 years and has been passed through three generations,” Mr Wong says. “Some of our staff have worked here over 20 years and it explains a big part of our success.” Open daily, 8am-7pm. 8-10 Yi Chun Street, Sai Kung, 2792 3145.
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What’s your favourite solution for the traffic? 36% 24%
21%
11%
8%
Best Vet
Dr Mike Muir, Pets Central
Dr Mike Muir has been named Best Vet in our awards every year since 2010. Friendly, helpful and compassionate, Dr Mike is deeply involved in animal welfare and health in Sai Kung. As well as veterinary services, Pets Central is involved in adoption programmes for homeless animals and offers grooming services. It was established in
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September 2006 and with several teams of experienced veterinary professionals and now has clinics across Hong Kong, including a 24hour nursing care clinic in Mong Kok. 66 Yi Chun Street, Sai Kung, 2792 0833, www.pets-central.com.
Double lane Highway
Ferry
MTR
Road Declare a permits republic of for Sai Kung residents and seal the borders
readers’ choice awards
What would you like to see open in the empty premises on Wan King Path? You suggested: Organic raw food and juice bar Games centre for teens Italian ice-cream shop Cinema Reggae bar Mexican restaurant Youth club Cocktail bar Department store Recycling centre Indoor play, arts & crafts for kids 1950s diner Pebble path Live music venue Anything except another bar or restaurant And the winner is: Bumps to Babes. Hong Kong’s favourite maternity and children’s store opens this month in the former bank premises (see p.10 for details).
Worst local eyesore: new golf driving range at Pak Kong, closely followed by Centro.
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Best Annual Event: Dragon-boat Festival
“Yat yee, yat yee!” The Sai Kung Dragon-boat Festival wins Best Annual Event for the second year running. Colourful, noisy and exciting, it’s a real crowd-pleaser that this year drew an estimated 3,000 residents and visitors to the waterfront to cheer on the teams. Each year, teams train for months for the gruelling event and celebrate with lion dancing, roast suckling pig and a stonking after-party that goes on for most of the afternoon. This year’s event saw 142 teams take to the water in 36 events. Sai Kung teams Blue Sky Water Sports and ladies’ team Blazing Paddles achieved outstanding results once again. Sai Kung District Community Centre, 8 Mei Yuen Street, Sai Kung, 2792 1762, skdcc@skdcc.org.
which facility would you like to see come to Sai Kung? 34% Cycle tracks
21% MTR
18% Cinema
10% Gym
Bowling alley
Sports centre
Hotel
Shopping mall
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7%
4%
Best Dog Walk and
Place to take Guests
Sai Kung Waterfront 3.5%
2.5%
A great spot for people- and dog-watching, the waterfront wins your votes in two categories this year, as the Best Dog Walk and Best Place to take Guests in Sai Kung. All life is here. Babies learning to walk, little kids learning to cycle without training wheels,
big kids in the playground, teens fixing love locks to the promenade rails, couples walking hand in hand, families flying kites, groups of friends buying seafood, daytime sampan ladies, nighttime harpoon fishermen, junk-trippers, Geopark rockhoppers, people shopping, people eating, people taking selfies… And then there are the dogs. Permed, primped, dyed, fluffed and ready for their closeups, or just waggy-tailed and bright-eyed and enjoying a walk. Whether you spend five minutes or five hours on the waterfront, it’s always a trip.
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Best Afterschool Activity
Bricks4Kids LEGO lovers can’t get enough of the creative classes run by teaching twins Carley and Duncan Lauder at Bricks4Kids. Nearly a year after taking charge of the Sai Kung centre, Bricks4Kids has been going from strength to strength. “In the past year, we have started after-school classes at five additional schools and begun
in-school workshops for all year 3 students at Renaissance College,” Carley says. “We hope to bring our workshops to more schools including Hong Kong Academy right in the heart of Sai Kung.” Reaching out to the Sai Kung community, the centre will be running new preschool classes and evening events at The Hive. “We hope to see many of you with our new curriculum in the coming school year. Thank you to the families who let us be a part of so many kids’ learning, building and playing experience,” she says. 1/F, 65 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 0007, www.bricks4kids.com.
Best
Children’s Shop
Dymocks
With a wide range of children’s books and accessories, Dymocks is a winner with local families. Opened in 2010, Dymocks has stayed strong, ordering 200 titles every two months. “It has been an exciting year for Dymocks Sai Kung,” says owner Ursula Huber. “We will extend our selection of non-book items, such as educational toys and stationery.” Although Dymocks announced it was closing its Hong Kong operations in February, Huber plans to keep the name until her franchise is up in the autumn, operating as an independent
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bookstore with a brand new name coming soon. Open daily, 9am-7pm. 7 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 9110.
readers’ choice awards
Best
preschool SKIP
Established by a group of parents in 1989 as SKPPA (Sai Kung Preschools Parents Alliance), SKIP is a respected and much-loved part of the community. We caught up with departing principal Louise Duncan in June. “SKIP is a community school and we try to embrace that. For a lot of parents as well as the children, this is where they meet
friends and get to know new people. Parents volunteer in the classroom and our staff get to know the children extremely well because it is so small,” she said. On hearing that SKIP had once again won the Best Kindergarten category, office manager Claire Ford said, “What fantastic news! We are proud and honoured to have won this award. It is thanks to our small, dedicated team of staff and the committed and supportive parents for keeping SKIP the great preschool that it is. Thank you, everyone.” 159 Che Keng Tuk Road, Sai Kung, 2791 7354, www.skip.edu.hk.
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Best Day Spa
Sense of Touch
Stylish, friendly and heavenly scented, Sense of Touch Sai Kung wins Best Day Spa for the third time since it opened four years ago. Its experienced professional therapists provide a wide range of services from beauty touch-ups such as eyebrow tinting ($180) to a pampering deep-tissue massage ($780 for 60 minutes). Treat yourself to its signature treatments, suitable for men and women, including body scrubs, ultracalming facial and for date nights, try the total tranquillity couple’s massage. Look for monthly promotions on its website. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm, Sun 10am-7pm. 77 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 2278, www.senseoftouch.com.hk.
Best Hairdresser
Tala’s Hair & Beauty
Owner Mojdeh Kazemi is the proud winner of the Best Hairdresser for the fifth year in a row. She believes its continuing success is a reflection of Tala’s emphasis on customer care. “Our staff listens to the client’s needs,” she says. “We always strive to offer excellent service and meet the client’s satisfaction –
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everything we do is about the clients.” As well as a full range of hair services, Tala’s offers beauty treatments such as facials, manipedis and spray tans. Free consultations and a 10-day guarantee ensure clients are satisfied with their services. “The business has grown and my professional staff is the major element of the salon’s growth,” Moj says. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm. 56 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung, 2335 1694, www.talashair.com.
readers’ choice awards
It wouldn’t be Sai Kung without… “A couple of pythons…” Sherrin Loh “All the lovely people I see out when walking the dog… whether it’s fellow dog walkers, joggers, cyclists, road sweepers, hikers or the guys at the country-park barrier, they always have a smile and take time to say hello or have a chat. Makes my day… everyday!” Thida Henshaw “Grumpy minibus drivers, noisy bullfrogs, cool cows and quality restaurants.” Lee Newton “The chilled-out community: people swimming at Sai Kung waterfront early in the morning, the stadium, Man Nin Square, the many beaches and hiking trails, friendly and relaxed restaurants – everything makes one feel at home.” Maria Zaparina “Dogs. Dogs being walked. Dogs being pushed. Dogs being carried. Dogs sleeping on the sidewalk. Dogs ready to be adopted. Dogs working their angles to camera phone on the promenade!” Carley Lauder “Millions of weekend visitors.” Wendi Lau “Rickety wooden sampans taking you to isolated beaches driven by men and women who are in their 80s and sweem to be able to drive the boat without really looking at anything.” Julie Fahy “Mad dogs on the seafront in pushchairs, old ladies in the square.” Jude Bailey “Mr Wong’s bar by the bus stop in Tai Wan Village.” Marion Knight “THE COWS.” David Carter (and about 50 others)
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GRAND PRIZE
Sailing course for two at Hebe Haven Yacht Club Valued at $10,000 www.hhyc.org.hk WINNER: Ming Hong Ricky Hui
Ultimate pampering journey for two at Sense of Touch Valued at $5,800
Eight body-shaping sessions at Hypoxi Valued at $5,325
South Stream Seafoods groceries voucher Valued at $5,000
www.senseoftouch.com.hk
www.hypoxi.hk
www.south-stream-seafoods.com
WINNER: Nicole Lee
WINNER: Sujata Visaria
Six months of top-quality meat from Farmer’s Kitchen Valued at $3,000
WINNER: Keith Holder
Monster Kid 10 x $300 gift vouchers Valued at $3,000 www.facebook.com/monsterkidhk
www.farmerskitchen.com.hk
WINNER: Lee Newton
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WINNERS: Zhanel Kee Sara Hopkirk Diane Archer Rachel Ferguson Dana A. Chan Iris Chung Yan Lou Adams Anne-Marie Uys Ruth Beauchamp Alistair Haigh-smith
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eating
island hopping
The Kung goes to K-Town Annie Wong visits the new Kennedy Town branches of two favourite Sai Kung restaurants.
Hebe One O One’s sister restaurant, the “urban eatery and battlecruiser” (boozer) Shoreditch.
“We had been looking for a new location for many years. There were many considerations such as rent and easy-going landlords,” Wrayton says. “We looked in many areas, such as Tin Hau, Sai Wan Ho and SoHo, but we wanted a great location with big windows and open space and that’s what we found in Kennedy Town.” Shoreditch Right in the heart of Kennedy Town, Shoreditch is a new gastropub opened by Hebe One O One owner, Scott Wrayton. It’s a totally different concept to Hebe One O One. With its paint-splattered bowler-hat logo and rhyming slang slogan, the “urban eatery and battlecruiser” (boozer) aims to bring a taste of London’s trendy East End to Hong Kong’s most happening neighbourhood. Designed by Stickman, the industrial-chic interior is relaxed and contemporary: whitepainted brick walls daubed with stencils, black iron-framed glass walls, and Edison lightbulbs dangling overhead. A long dining table for large groups runs down the middle of the restaurant, surrounded by smaller tables for more intimate dining.
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We give each dish a bit of British identity Shoreditch has little overlap with its Sai Kung sister restaurant other than a few wines. “Kennedy Town has a much denser catchment of Hong Kong’s population. The cuisine had to be more specific, allowing us to concentrate on the quality of each dish,” Wrayton says. “People have to travel to Hebe One O One and so we have a much more open and varied menu, serving international cuisine.” Specialising in modern British cuisine, the menu at Shoreditch took months to perfect, sourcing the best and freshest ingredients from all over the world for classics such as fish
and chips, braised beef cheek and apple and blackberry crumble. Rather than get hung up on sourcing entirely British ingredients, Wrayton says, “we just want to give each dish a bit of British identity”. So there are mussels sourced from the US, but cooked in cider British-style. Shoreditch prides itself on its Sunday roast ($358), a three-course feast of cream of field mushroom soup, roast leg of lamb and sticky date pudding. And look for the special set lunch menu. The bar has a comprehensive list of wines, champagne and beers, including St Mungo from Glasgow, which is exclusive to Shoreditch in Hong Kong. 18 Catchick Street, Kennedy Town, 2242 3777, www.shoreditch.hk.
eating Casa Tapakaya Kennedy Town Voted Best Restaurant and Best Bar in this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards, Casa is riding the wave of its success all the way to Kennedy Town, in the west of Hong Kong Island. Owner James Bradshaw opened Casa’s second branch there last month, just around the corner from the new Hong Kong University MTR station.
To keep it fresh, our menu will change every three months Casa Tapakaya Kennedy Town has a familiar look and relaxed vibe, with high ceilings, long wooden bar tables and stools, and the drinks and food menu chalked up on huge blackboards. But where the original makes the most of its seaside location with an openfronted bar, Casa K-Town is – appropriately – more urban. The main bar is in a basement, while the ground floor will be a deli. “We were happy with the size of the place. There’s enough space for big groups but it’s also an intimate surrounding,” says general manager, Steve Keys. “It wasn’t money that drove us to open a new Casa in Kennedy Town. We tried things and took a risk when we opened
Casa Kennedy Town’s basement bar has a similar decor, menu and vibe to the Sai Kung original.
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eating in Sai Kung but we want to fine-tune everything at Casa Kennedy Town.” The bartop is one of the longest in Hong Kong at a whopping 11.3 metres and is fitted with 15 taps. As in Sai Kung, beers will be reasonably priced, starting at $40 a pint. The basement bar is open for drinks and tapas, while the ground-floor deli and bar will sell sandwiches, meat and beer by the bottle.
We want to fine-tune everything in Kennedy Town It will offer a condensed version of Casa’s tapas menu, drawing on influences from cuisines around the world. As well as triedand-tested favourites (pulled-pork sliders, tuna tartare), there are some new inventions suggested by customers (smoked chicken and kimchi sliders). “We always change it up to keep it fresh so our menu will change every three months,” says Keys, who is a trained chef. “Our dishes are inspired by the entire Casa team and, of course, the customers.” 14-16 Woo Hop Street, Kennedy Town, www.facebook.com/casatapakaya.
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Casa’s bar is open but the team was still finishing the ground-floor deli last month.
eating
Nibbles The Cabin family restaurant opens Family-friendly British restaurant The Cabin has opened on Po Tung Road, in the former Cozy Corner location. Bright, breezy and cheerful, it is run by the same people as the Lighthouse Playroom next door, where children can play while their parents eat. The food is good, old-fashioned British home-cooking – think fish and chips, cottage pie, roast spring chicken and rib-eye steak. Staff proudly announce that the chips are “real”, made fresh on the premises from whole potatoes rather than bought in frozen (“We think we’re the only place in Sai Kung that serves real chips”). There’s also a kids’ menu for the little ones. The a la carte menu was still being worked out last month, but meanwhile The Cabin was serving a choice of mains with a complimentary starter and dessert. Obliging staff even made up a special batch of custard to go with the apple crumble instead of ice cream, which gets a smiley face from us :) 183C Po Tung Rd, Sai Kung, 2412 3183, www.facebook.com/TheCabinCafeRestaurant
The Cabin: British homecooking for all the family.
Lady M opens in Kowloon Upscale New York cake boutique, Lady M, has arrived in Hong Kong. Lady M pairs the freshest ingredients from France and Japan, creating signature desserts such as greentea mille crêpes – a tower of wafer thin pancakes layered with cream – and gâteau nuage. The new store is part of the group’s international expansion: it is also opening in Seoul and Singapore. Try it at 2/F, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2873 2356.
Steamers gets alfresco licence Steamers’ terrace is fully back in action. After two years of negotiation and staying strictly within the rules – including those painted onto the tiles – Steamers has been awarded a licence for its outdoor tables. Co-owner Jacki Craggs says this means the bar can reinstate tables on both sides of its large terrace, doubling its alfresco seating. It also means the Sai Kung Sampler monthly night market will return, starting September 3, 6.30pm-9.30pm. 66 Yi Chun Street, Sai Kung, 2792 6991.
.COM opens After a month of private parties, .COM now has its license and is open in the former Agua Plus location on Po Tung Road. Drop by for live music, pool tables, Tuesday Ladies’ Night with one-hour free-flow on Prosecco, and Thursday Mens’ Night with one-hour free-flow on selected beers. Rick Ney will be cooking Western and Chinese cuisine for diners upstairs, and coffee is served from 9am. G/F, 72-74 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung, 2660 5755.
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outdoors
someone’s been shopping
WasSUP? SUP yoga, a paddleboard built for 10 and see-through kayaks… Arshia Bhatia plays on Blue Sky’s new toys.
SUP Yoga, barely there kayaks and a family-sized paddleboard are all available at Sha Ha Beach.
There’s something in the water at Sha Ha Beach… Bryan Ng Yu-fung, owner of Sai Kung’s Blue Sky Water Sport, has been on a shopping spree and invested in a bunch of innovative new products, some of which are available nowhere else in Hong Kong. “We like to be the first to do things around here,” Ng says. It’s going to be a fun summer. SUP Yoga Do the downward seadog with a yoga class on an SUP. Floating yoga using SUP boards instead of yoga mats has been catching on in Hong Kong, with classes also available at Stanley. Now Blue Sky has joined forces with SUP Yoga HK to bring the programme to Sai Kung. Because the surface is unstable, SUP yoga engages the core muscles even better than the land-based version – and there’s the extra tension of knowing that if you mess up, you get wet. “Because of the wind direction and calm waters, Sai Kung is the ideal location for beginners to try this sport,” Ng says. It’s also a zen location for yoga’s more meditative side. The class starts with stretching on the shore and creating natural anchors using bags filled with sand and rocks to hold the boards in
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place. Then the instructor demonstrates how to move and turn your paddleboard and leads an active yoga class through poses on the water. Afterwards there’s time to paddle about on your SUP. Each 90-minute class is taught by a certified instructor and costs $500. They tend to fill up fast so reserve a spot early.
We like to be the first to do things around here Giant inflatable SUP Blue Sky was one of the first in Sai Kung to introduce standup paddle boarding (SUP), which is now the world’s fastest-growing water sport. Taking it up a gear is its new giant inflatable SUP. Built for up to 10 people, the board measures 5.5m x 1.5m, and is the perfect toy for active families. The size makes it more stable than a typical SUP so it’s a great way for groups to explore local waters, taking it in turns to paddle or having a go at wave rafting (we recommend waiting for the wake of a large motorboat). Even better, the rental price
includes an instructor so even novices can give it a go. The giant board can be rented for $2,800 for three hours or $4,200 for a day, for a minimum of four people. Participants must be able to swim 50 metres without any floating devices. Transparent kayak Get a better peep at the plants and creatures of the deep bobbing along on a transparent kayak. A wonderful way to get the kids out onto the beautiful briny sea (that’s enough Bedknobs and Broomsticks references), the see-through kayaks can be rented by the hour, day or on the six-hour guided Eco Tour. Glide over fish, coral and sea creatures, get a look at the underwater world of the mangroves and explore the fish farms of Yim Tin Island from a whole new perspective on the guided tour. A great family activity, the day starts in Sai Kung at 10am and includes a guide, lunch and a chance to play on Kai Lung Wan beach. The Eco Tour is $800 a head (minimum of eight people required) and snorkelling gear is available at extra cost. Blue Sky Sports Centre, Sha Ha Road, Sai Kung, 2792 4938, info@bluesky-sc.com www.bluesky-sc.com.
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sponsored column
How to ace a school interview Part one of ITS Education Asia’s scoop on primary-school interviews for five-year-olds. School interviews are a concern for parents. They are unsure what to expect and knowing there are more children interviewed than there are spaces can cause extra anxiety. For many children, the unfamiliar environment and talking to “strangers” for the first time can make the procedure frightening. How can they be expected to show a deeper side of themselves within a 40- to 45-minute interview? Well, schools use a variety of techniques that help to ease children into their interview. It is important to know if there are one or two rounds of interviews. At the first round, six to eight children are invited for a “group interview” in which they are asked to interact with one or two teachers and each other, and to perform some tasks. Some schools narrow down the pool of applicants for a second round that is more likely to involve either an individual interview or with two to four children. Other schools interview children just once. It helps to have a basic idea of what might
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happen so you can feel more relaxed about your child being immersed in a new group with new children and a new teacher.
Extra playdates, drama or storytelling classes may be helpful if a child is shy Some parents and educators argue the best preparation for school interviews is no preparation. That way, the child’s personality, talents and temperament shine naturally. However, this is not the time to hope for the best. We are not advocating sending your child to interview boot camp, but low-key preparation may help. Extra playdates, for instance, and maybe drama or storytelling classes may be helpful if a child is shy. Even chatty and sociable children may be quite withdrawn when they first meet a group of new children, preferring to sit back and scout things out before participating. In a 40-minute group interview there’s no time for this.
It is important to prepare your child without creating unnecessary anxiety. You’ll know if it’s best to discuss specifics about the interview with your child, who they will meet, what they will do, and how long it will take. Don’t over-prepare your child – just a simple conversation a day or two before. Also it’s important to not anticipate your child’s behaviour during a school interview or assume he or she will respond in the same way you have observed in the past. The last few weeks prior to an interview should be the time of revision for your child, not a period of learning. Next month, we will cover what really happens in an interview. ITS Education Asia provides an education consulting service that works with families and employers to find the right schools for individual children in Hong Kong, from nursery to secondary schools. ITS also offers research, policy and advisory services for corporations. For more details, contact es@itseducation.asia, 3188 3940 or www.itseducation.asia.
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big day out
Footprints in the sand
Overlooking lovely Long Ke Wan from Sai Wan Shan.
Rory Mackay hikes to four of your favourite Sai Kung beaches in one salty day. Hikers venturing into the wilds of Sai Kung have an astounding plethora of options, including some of Hong Kong’s finest beaches at Long Ke and Tai Long Wan. Few people manage to get the sand of both beaches on their feet in a single visit. However, it is possible. Part of Stage 2 of the MacLehose Trail, this route is the optimal way to see four of the region’s finest beaches, long swathes of powdery white sand starting with Long Ke in the south then over Sai Wan Shan to Sai Wan, Ham Tin and Tai Long Wan. Getting there is hassle-free. Catch a cab to the East Dam of High Island Reservoir
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Long swathes of powdery white sand, starting with Long Ke in the south (about $100 from Sai Kung town). Tell the taxi driver to head towards Long Ke and the dam marks the end of the road. It’s a scenic drive next to the turquoise waters of High Island Reservoir and the East Dam is worth a look before charging up
the trail. As part of the Hong Kong Global Geopark, the columnar jointing and other natural rock formations in the area are pretty special and make a fun detour. From the turning circle, leave the paved road and follow a footpath up and over the hill. Before long you will see sweeping Long Ke, the first beach on our route. The path leads straight down to some of the whitest sands and clearest waters in Hong Kong. Often on weekdays, you will have this slice of paradise all to yourself. Treat yourself to a swim before biting into the heart of this route, the hike up and over
long ke to tai long wan
Top and left: during the week, you (and your dogs) may have Long Ke all to yourselves. Right: Ham Tin is one of the jewels in Sai Kung’s crown.
Sai Wan Shan. Climbing the 314m summit is hard work on a summer’s day, but it is worth it for what awaits on the other side. The views from the top are so good it’s silly. The peak overlooks the entire eastern Sai Kung peninsula, with its lovely beaches, piercing peaks and rugged headlands. The contrasts between the surreal-coloured waters of High Island Reservoir and the South China Sea are particularly easy on the eye.
months, but in winter it makes a truly jawdropping day. Instead, venture as far north as you feel comfortable with. Ham Tin has a couple of little restaurants offering cold drinks and noodles and renting tents and surfboards (Hoi Fung Store, tel: 2328 2315). The winner of Best Beach in this year’s Readers’ Choice Awards, Tai Long Wan is simply stunning. From either beach, return to Sai Wan and hike up to the road or catch a speedboat back
to Sai Kung (try Edward Shek, tel: 5127 3053). If hiking back remember to call for a taxi in advance (tel: 2729 1199 or 2383 0168), as mobile reception in the area can be fickle. Rory Mackay runs adventure company Wild Hong Kong. For details, visit www.wildhongkong.com.
The views from the top are so good it’s silly From the summit, the route drops down into a shady valley and follows the MacLehose Trail to Sai Wan, where calm waters and cooling refreshments await. From there, hikers have a choice: follow the paved footpath uphill for 45 minutes to reach the Sai Wan access road and cab back to Sai Kung, or continue on to Ham Tin (about 40 minutes) and Tai Long Wan (15 minutes from Ham Tin), where the beaches are even more expansive and the surf is fine. The long walk to Wong Shek Pier is better left to the more intrepid during the warmer Take a break at Sai Wan.
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travel
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saddle up
Freewheeling through Asia You don’t have to quit work to go on a cycling adventure. Hit the road with Humphrey Wilson on overland challenges that anyone can join.
On Mad Dog challenges, participants cycle 150km-200km a day for up to eight days through (clockwise from left) Guangdong, Laos, Guilin and Thailand.
In 2009, I completed an epic bicycle ride from Buckingham Palace, London, to Government House, Hong Kong, via 22 countries, six deserts, five mountain ranges and 11,000 miles. Before the trip, I had never cycled in my life. Afterwards, I was struck by the paradox of how accessible the journey had been for me, yet how inaccessible it seems to most people. There are two main factors that stop people from undertaking a once-in-a-lifetime journey like this: lack of time and lack of support. Travelling like I did without a support team requires a lot of kit, which slows you down considerably. However, these problems can be overcome if the route is meticulously planned beforehand, and if you have great support. Given enough determination, ordinary people can perform extraordinary feats in a day, and incredible ones in a week. And so I launched Mad Dogs, a cycling adventure company that lets people accomplish
the extraordinary by taking care of the logistics and allowing them to focus on the cycling. We organise a series of adventure cycling events, or “Mad Dog Challenges” across Asia, allowing participants to experience countries in the most intimate way while attaining a lifetime achievement.
Participants experience countries in the most intimate way The challenges take one to eight days, with riders cycling 150-200 kilometres a day. On my own ride, a large part of each day was spent worrying about what to eat and where to sleep, not to mention fixing punctures and other mechanical problems. On a Mad
Dog Challenge, all these matters are taken care of. We keep the adventurous upside, while eliminating the downside. Our trips include hotels, breakfast, lunch, support vehicles, interpreter, mechanic and, of course, routes. We even have Garmin GPS units for hire for those cyclists who don’t have their own. Any true adventure must have a purpose and on a Mad Dog Challenge this is to cycle overland between two far-flung destinations. We make no apologies, the challenges are tough. But nothing worthwhile was ever easy and we have had many first-time adventure cyclists successfully complete a challenge. Key to the notion of adventure is that we don’t choreograph each detail of every day: it’s essential that participants feel a high degree of ownership over their trip and can make spontaneous changes of plan. We don’t force people to stay in large groups, although in practice people tend to
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travel stick together at least in pairs. This allows cyclists to make brief stops wherever they fancy, often involving interactions with local people that, for many, is a highlight of the trip. The challenges are potted versions of my original long ride, the routes I consider the most interesting, most satisfying, and most impressive to “bag”. The first was Hong Kong to Hanoi, and after the success of this, the rest followed. I’m often asked which is my favourite challenge, but they are so varied in culture, cuisine, terrain and scenery that it’s impossible to choose.
Pedal through Asia: the routes Hong Kong to Hanoi is splendid for starting at home and adventuring through undiscovered parts of China and lush tea plantations in Vietnam. Hanoi to Bangkok, our longest challenge, is an odyssey through three countries, three cuisines and three alphabets in a week that feels like a month. Singapore to Krabi is sensory overload throughout multicultural Malaysia, before heading to Thailand and finishing on the beach. Tokyo to Sapporo is the best way of seeing the real Japan: stunning backroads, small towns, mountains, volcanic lakes, rivers and rugged coastlines.
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Macau to Guilin is adventure cycling in its truest form and gives a splendid insight into rural China. Angkor to Phnom Penh is a fascinating window into extraordinary Cambodia, with a charitable element supporting Village Focus International’s work against human trafficking. Taipei to Kenting in Taiwan is extraordinarily varied: mountains, rice fields, coastal roads and aboriginal villages. The Kaiping Dash is a one-day route near Hong Kong that goes to the heart of one of China’s most fascinating places. The Dash from Phuket connects Phuket with Krabi with a one-day ride through coastal routes, lush hills, back roads and karst scenery ending at Ao Nang beach.
travel A day on the road Participants meet early for breakfast: the rules state that cyclists must be finished before dusk (or else be collected by vehicle), so we like to get people started about half an hour after first light. Most hotels won’t accommodate breakfast this early so support staff lay on a great spread of eggs, oatmeal, bacon, coffee, sliced fruit.
The fresh, early-morning air and initial surge of adrenaline makes the first kilometres breeze by Getting up early isn’t always easy but many people say it’s uplifting to see the others and share some banter while eating and skimming over the day’s direction sheet to get familiar with the route. This is also a good time to collar the bike mechanic if there are any issues with your bike. Then hand in the room keys, load your bag into the support vehicle, select the route map on the handlebar-mounted GPS, and at 6.45am, start pedalling. The fresh early-morning air and initial surge of adrenaline makes the first kilometres breeze by.
Stop at a sugar-cane stall for a breather and banter with the locals – communicating perfectly even though you can’t speak each other’s language. An hour later, the support team appears with snacks, and two hours after that a Mad Dogs banner is a signal to pull into a checkpoint and eat at roadside restaurant. The afternoon session is more tiring, and there’s another problem with your gears. The support team are there within 15 minutes, the mechanic sorts the problem in five and you’re off again, recharged with snacks and a refilled water bottle. Schoolchildren wave as they cycle home. It’s time to dig deep; the kilometres don’t fly past quite as quickly now. The route is interesting and there’s plenty to look at, but the hotel is the most welcome sight of all. The support team notes your arrival time for a completion certificate and Hall of Fame entry (you’re still in the running). And after a long hot shower, you decide to join the support team and many of the other guests for supper at a local restaurant and share the day’s stories over a few beers. Tomorrow’s directions sheet turn up and everyone’s happy that it’s 15 kilometres shorter than today’s route. It’s only 9pm when your roommate turns out the light, but it feels like midnight. Nine glorious hours of slumber before the adventure continues…
Choose a challenge Sep 5 The Dash from Phuket Sep 26-Oct 2 Hong Kong to Hanoi Challenge Oct 17-25 Hanoi to Bangkok Challenge Nov 7-10 Taipei to Kenting Challenge Nov 21 The Kaiping Dash Dec 5-8 or 6-8 Angkor to Phnom Penh Challenge (Dec 5: Bike4Kids at Angkor Wat, optional) Feb 7-13 Singapore to Krabi Challenge Apr 30-May 3 Macau to Guilin Challenge Jun 5-11 Tokyo to Sapporo Challenge For details, please visit gomaddogs.com or email maddogshk@gmail.com.
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pets
top dogs
Pack mentality Sally Andersen explains the group dynamics of dog world. Living with lots of dogs isn’t easy, but after many years it’s given me an insight into how a dog’s mind works and how they coexist as a large group. I first observed natural dog behaviour long before I started Hong Kong Dog Rescue when feeding strays on “Dog Island”, close to my home on Lamma Island. In those days, I wasn’t doing any more than rowing over in my inflatable dinghy a couple of times a week and dropping off piles of food (for which I was duly fined by the AFCD as feeding stray dogs is not allowed). I observed how the dogs interacted, although sadly none lived long except one proud male I called Teddy. Somehow he survived for quite a few years and fathered many puppies, and it was then I began my rescue
work by taking the puppies off the island and finding them homes.
Most people assume the dogs form one pack... but that’s not how it works Going back to my living arrangements, I imagine most people assume the dogs form one large pack with a leader, or alpha dog, and a structured hierarchy. But that’s not how it works. Instead, there are several small groups of individuals, often those that have grown up together, without any obvious top dog. There are the same character roles as in human society, with confident dogs and timid ones, bullies and those on the receiving end. But within their own groups there’s little infighting. Some dogs operate as free agents, preferring to keep themselves to themselves or choosing who they feel like interacting with. All the dogs recognise each other as belonging to the same home, and each group knows its own territory. Crossing the border into another group’s area is asking for trouble, although from time to time a dog will leave one “family” and join another. How or why they decide
this I have no idea. Somehow they manage to communicate the new arrangement and presumably it’s approved, or not. Many people have read about how wild elephants gather to mourn their dead. I have seen dogs do this on two occasions when one of them has died out in the woods. (One dog died from a cobra bite and the other succumbed to cancer while out on a walk.) After the bodies had been removed, and without any of the other dogs having seen the dead dogs or knowing where it happened, when they came across the exact spot on our next walk they gathered in a tight bunch, sniffing the ground intently, and then one by one they all urinated on the place where their family member had fallen. The following day the spot was ignored, the death having been acknowledged and respects having been paid. On occasions like this I realise how little we understand our dogs, and that inside all our long-domesticated friends there is still a lingering memory of when they were wild animals. Sally Andersen is the founder of Hong Kong Dog Rescue, a charity that rescues, rehabilitates and re-homes unwanted or abandoned dogs.
hong kong creatures Yellowtail clownfish Like the hero of Finding Nemo, the yellowtail or Clarke’s clownfish, has three bold white stripes on its head, belly and tail. Its colour is highly variable with vivid black, white, orange or yellow stripes. The black areas become wider as the fish grows, while the fins and tail remain yellow. It’s a small species of clownfish that grows to 14cm-15cm long and can live for up to 11 years, sometimes at depths of 60m. Clownfish famously have a symbiotic relationship with sea anemones and are covered in mucous that makes them immune to the anemone’s sting. The anemone protects the fish; the fish provides scraps of food for the anemone.
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Clownfish live in matriarchal societies with one dominant pair – if the dominant female dies, the male will change sex to take over her role. Males are responsible for guarding and aerating the eggs. After hatching, the young swim towards the surface and are swept away to search for an anemone of their own. Not to be confused with the two-banded clownfish, which is found only in the Red Sea, the yellowtail clownfish can be found in Australia, Japan, Taiwan and China. Where to find them in Hong Kong: lagoons and outer reef slopes at Hoi Ha Wan and Tung Ping Chau. Steffi Yuen
Phototgraph: Ben Lancaster
aka Amphiprion clarkii
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marketplace
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marketplace
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marketplace J Fit Studio
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marketplace
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marketplace
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marketplace
on patrol...
top cop
Lost & Found
Janet Chan explains why the police are better than Facebook at returning lost property. Have you ever misplaced valuable property and run around looking for it? How did you feel? Worried, frustrated, sad? What would you do if you found a wallet on a minibus? Call 999, go to the nearest Police Station to report “found property” or upload the photo to a local Facebook group to find the owner? A few months ago, a taxi driver handed in a smartphone to Sai Kung Police Station that had been left in his cab. Meanwhile, the phone’s owner had reported its loss at another police station – the phone contained precious pictures of her baby that she hadn’t yet downloaded. We successfully matched the two reports and returned the smartphone. The owner was so pleased that she wrote a thank-you letter praising the professionalism of the officers who handled her case. Social media offers new solutions for cases like this. Browsing Sai Kung Facebook groups recently, I noted people had posted photos of a found ID card, student card, Octopus card etc in order to look for the property owner. While this might be successful, it is not the most effective
way. It might not reach people who are not on Facebook, and posting pictures of the property may lead to the leakage of personal information. For instance, posting on Facebook a picture of a Hong Kong Identity Card might expose the holder’s name, date of birth and ID card number. This personal data could be unlawfully collected and processed. It may also result in a false claim of ownership. I strongly recommend you report found property to police as the most effective way to look for its rightful owner. We have 24/seven access to a property-matching system that matches reports of lost and found items. Likewise, if you lose any property, please go to the nearest police station and report the case with details of the item (brand, size, colour, serial number and IMEI number for mobile phone), plus the time and venue when the property went missing. The more details you give, the higher the chance of a matching result. I would like to thank everyone who has reported found property to us – and remember to look after your property when you are out and about.
Janet Chan is the ADVC OPS for the Hong Kong Police Sai Kung Division, tel: 3661 1630
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vines in sai kung
stephen says...
Braced for gridlock If you think the traffic’s bad now, wait till the new housing opens, writes Stephen Vines.
What will happen to the traffic when this Tai Po Tsai development opens?
Traffic gridlock looms No genius is required to forecast the pending outbreak of traffic gridlock in Clearwater Bay Road near Tai Po Tsai village. The massive 25-block luxury apartment complex in this area is nearing completion and will eventually be joined by another major property development on the site of the former TVB studios. Both of these developments are not only adjacent to the point where Clearwater Bay Road narrows but for drivers heading towards Hang Hau, already facing problems at the roundabout before the turnoff, this congestion is likely to become a happy memory compared with what will come next. Meanwhile, work has begun on new property developments on the fringes of Sai Kung town that will be the biggest in the area when they are completed – the traffic implications are also considerable. Bearing in mind that housing developments of this kind are likely to be filled with vehicle owners, surely the Highways Department should be planning ahead – if so, it is doing this work under a shroud of secrecy. More likely nothing is being done and there will be exclamations of profound surprise as the traffic mounts and mounts. A lifeline for the country parks Now for the good news, at least it seems
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that way. Development Secretary Paul Chan has announced the country parks will not be developed for residential or commercial purposes for the next two years, in other words until the end of C.Y. Leung’s period in office. Wags are already saying this may be the only reason they will regret his departure, but we shall not dwell on that happy thought.
This congestion is likely to become a happy memory compared with what will come next Meanwhile, the government is proceeding with the rezoning of 61 green-belt sites involving 150 hectares of land, but stresses this will not affect the country parks. In case anyone has failed to break this simple code, the term rezoning means giving land to property developers, it almost never means creating more green space. Even in circumstances where country park development can be positive and indeed creative we see the government erecting obstacles because the only kind of development it really understands is slash and build. Over at the wonderful historic Hakka village of Lai Chi Woo in Plover Cove Country Park,
villagers and the University of Hong Kong’s Kadoorie Institute are engaged in a project to revive agriculture around the village and bring the largely disused houses back to life. This project is already literally bearing fruit but there is more to be done in terms of ferry access and getting permission to use some of the houses for holiday accommodation. At every turn the organisers are facing bureaucratic hurdles ranging from transportation problems to licensing issues. If only these pesky villagers would simply knock everything down and build a complex of ugly new properties everything would be so much easier. Village enclaves of this kind also exist in the Sai Kung Country Park and would respond well to a Lai Chi Woo-type project. However, as this experience has not been encouraging it might take quite a while before anything happens in these parts. The point is that not all development in the country parks is necessarily bad, nor should the enclaves be left to stagnate, but there is such a thing as intelligent planning. More dining choices in Sai Kung Back in Sai Kung town restaurants seem to be opening with a vengeance. Interestingly they are mainly offering non-Chinese cuisine despite the enormous gap in the market for a nonseafood, or possibly non-Cantonese alternative to the pricey shore-side restaurants at one end of the spectrum and a proliferation of dai pai dongs at the other. Surely there is scope for some decent, realistically priced other types of Chinese restaurants? Meanwhile I wish the new entrants luck, Sai Kung is becoming an increasingly tough restaurant market that has demonstrated its ability to give short shrift to new entrants who have somehow failed to do their homework. Nonetheless more choice is always to be welcomed and what I like about the new entrants is that they are not part of the ubiquitous chains that dominate the rest of Hong Kong. Now all the new folk have to do is find a way of paying their landlords. Stephen Vines is a journalist, broadcaster and entrepreneur. He is the former editor of the Eastern Express and Southeast Asia correspondent for The Observer.