Mid-level Sep 2016

FAMILY | FOOD | HOME | HEALTH | LIVING

Mid-levels magazine

September 2016

The grand old dame

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Mid-levels magazine

The really useful magazine September 2016

PEOPLE 6 Snapped!

Life around Mid-levels.

THE PLANNER 10 Happening in September Events for your diary.

NEWS 14 What’s going on?

In your backyard.

GIVEAWAYS 16 Giveaways Fab things to win.

FIVE MINUTES WITH...

18 Yenn Wong The queen of the dining scene.

LOCAL 20 Walk this way Latest on plans to pedestrianise Des Voeux Road Central.

NEIGHBOURHOOD 22 May day The Helena May celebrates 100 years in Mid-levels.

ARTS & CULTURE 26 Globetrotting The director of Shakespeare’s Globe production of The Merchant of Venice shares his thoughts on the play.

EATING 30 The brunch club The weekend’s best brunches.

Plus the latest dining news.

HEALTH & WELLNESS 36 Say om The best boutique yoga studios.

YOGA YODA 40 Awkward moments Columnist Victor Chau shares his most embarrassing moments from yoga class.

BEAUTY 42 In deep water We’re feeling buoyant at the floatation spa.

TRAVEL 54 Pho the good times A luxury break in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam.

SECRETS 60 Museum of Medical Sciences A hidden gem on Caine Lane.

BIG DAY OUT 44 Paddles up Kayaking around Sai Kung Country Park.

HOME & LIVING 46 Home comforts Sneak a peek around a gorgeous Mid-levels apartment.

EDUCATION 50 French International School Behind the school gates.

“THE BEGINNING IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE WORK” - PLATO

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Welcome to

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vels

magazine

Welcome to Mid-levels magazine. We hope that you will find lots of interesting stories, useful news and local events in the pages of our very first issue. It’s been a lot of fun to put together and we can’t wait to explore more of Mid-levels and its community with you.

Hong Kong is a special place to live and there is no better location to set up home than Mid-levels. From world class restaurants and creative art galleries to heritage sites and beautiful walks, it’s all on your doorstep.

Whether you’ve just moved in or you’ve lived here for years, we hope Mid-levels magazine helps you to make the most of life in Hong Kong.

Don’t forget to sign up to our weekly newsletter at www.mid-levels.co to stay informed of all the latest news and events in your area. We’d also love to hear from our readers too, drop us an email at editorial@fastmedia.com.hk to connect with our friendly editorial team.

Now sit back, relax and enjoy our first issue!

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contributors

Angela Tufvesson

Belinda Bamford

Carolynne Dear

Angela is an Australian journalist specialising in health and lifestyle with more than 10 years’ experience in media and publishing. Since moving to Hong Kong in January, she’s been busy sussing out the latest wellbeing trends on the Island, including the chicest yoga styles.

Check out her favourite boutique studios on page 36.

Our cover image was taken by freelance photographer Belinda Bamford. Her work has been featured by National Geographic and the Financial Times. Whether she’s getting caught up in the festivities of local tribes men in Papua New Guinea, or diving ship wrecks from WW2, Belinda’s passion is storytelling through images.

If she stops you for a photo, smile and say hi... you could end up on the cover!

Carolynne Dear is a freelance writer and editor, and mother of four Australian-born, Hong Kongraised children. She has worked in London, Europe, Sydney and Hong Kong, writing on a diverse range of subjects, from travel and current affairs to education and architecture.

This month Carolynne paid a visit to the historic Helena May as they prepare for their centenary celebrations. Find out more on page 22.

Want to write for Mid-levels magazine? Contact editorial@fastmedia.com.hk

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people Snaps from Mid-levels

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say cheese

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people

Snaps from Mid-levels

Share your event photos with us at editorial@fastmedia.com.hk. Get snapping!

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Photo by the Hong Kong Tourism Board

planner

SEP 14-16

Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance Parades

A Mid-Autumn Festival tradition. This annual three-day event involves a 67-metre long Fire Dragon, over 300 performers, 70,000 incense sticks and a lot of firecrackers. Tai Hang, Causeway Bay. Free entry.

SEP 1-DEC 1 Hong Kong Cleanup Challenge

Merchant of Venice

Now in its 16th year, this annual cleanup couldn’t come at a better time, given the amount of waste washing up on Hong Kong’s beaches in recent weeks. Over five million pieces of rubbish were collected last year. Grab your friends, family and colleagues and sign up a team today at hkcleanup.org

Featuring Jonathan Pryce as Shylock (that’s the High Sparrow for Game of Thrones fans), Shakespeare’s Globe production of The Merchant of Venice continues its world tour with five nights in Hong Kong. Find out what the director Jonathan Munby has to say about the play in our interview and preview on page 26.

Lyric Theatre, HKAPA, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai.

Tickets $495-$795 from www.hkticketing.com.hk.

SEP 3, 10, 15, 24 & OCT 1 Macao International Fireworks Display Contest Pyrotechnic teams from around the world descend on Macao for the 28th international contest where audiences can expect dazzling displays in the battle for the crown. Head down to the waterfront or on top of Penha Hill on Macao Peninsula. Free to watch. For more information visit fireworks.macaotourism.gov.mo

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SEPT 7-11

happening in September

SEPT 25

Pink Dot Hong Kong

Pink Dot, Hong Kong’s largest LGBTI event, returns for its third year at a new location in West Kowloon Nursery Park. Hong Kong’s largest diversity event attracted more than 15,000 visitors last year, and the new larger venue promises more space for live performances and activities. The free event and outdoor concert welcomes everyone, just remember to wear something pink! For more information, visit pinkdot.hk.

than 15 countries. Browse original paintings, limited editions, sculptures and photography from both new and emerging artists. $220 per person at the door. If you register online ahead of time, you can take a friend for free. The Conrad, One Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty. www.asiacontemporaryart.com

SEP 24 International Schools Festival Thinking of sending your child to an international school? Head here to meet representatives from a selection of schools and listen to panel discussions and information sessions. Free upon registration. 9:30am, Renaissance Hong Kong Harbour View Hotel, Level 8, Concord & Oasis Room, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, www.internationalschoolsfestival.com

UNTIL OCT 2 The Gruffalo’s Child

SEP 4 2016 Hong Kong Legislative Council election Cast your vote for the sixth Legislative Council of Hong Kong. Polling hours: 7.30am - 10.30pm. www.elections.gov.hk

UNTIL SEP 5 The Celebration of Colour An exhibition by Life Inspired - a group of artist friends who meet regularly for life drawing. The Celebration of Colour aims to push its audience to relate to a diverse expression of what it means to be alive. Opening reception on the evening of September 1 with a drawing session on September 3, 6pm-7pm. Visual Arts Centre, Kennedy Road, Central. Free admission.

SEP 11 Ladies Lads and Lassies Race

A children’s classic, The Gruffalo’s Child returns as a musical adaptation with songs, laughs and scary fun. Times vary from 11am to 5pm depending on date. Regular tickets from $195.

Recommended for children three and above but no minimum age.

The Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, Drama Theatre, 1 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai. www.hkticketing.com

A 3.5k run open to runners aged seven and above on The Peak. Runners below six may join the fun run. Registration fees are $100 for Hong Kong Ladies Road Runners Club members aged 19 and above; $85 for ages 18 and under. Fees for non-members are $120 (ages 19 and above); $100 for ages 18 and under. You’ll have to be quick as registrations close on September 3.

Lugard and Harlech Road, The Peak. www.hklrrc.org.hk

SEP 15 Mid-Autumn Festival Also known as the Moon Festival, families traditionally gather around to celebrate a good harvest and gaze at the full moon - a symbol of unity. Try a local mooncake, shop for colourful lanterns and watch fiery dragon dances. Head to Victoria Park in Causeway Bay for magnificent lantern displays and other entertainment, 8pm11pm. Don’t forget your lanterns!

SEP 16 Day After Mid-Autumn Festival Public holiday.

SEP 16-18 Asia Contemporary Art Show

UNTIL SEP 30 In the Midst of the Storm: Hong Kong’s Early Typhoons A glimpse of life during the catastrophic storms of 1874 and 1906. The exhibition was initiated by master mariner Michael J Jones, who has spent years researching Hong Kong’s typhoons, and the HK Observatory. Hong Kong Maritime Museum, Central Ferry Pier No. 8, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org, 3713 2500.

A diverse lineup of over 80 exhibitors from more

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planner

BOOK NOW OCT 8-9 FIA Formula E HKT Hong Kong The world’s fastest electric racing cars zoom into Hong Kong for the first time. The race, to be staged on the streets around Central Harbourfront, is a new addition to the Formula E Championship. Championing the three ‘E’s - energy, environment and entertainment - the series has all the excitement of top-flight motorsport racing, minus the emissions. A prerace carnival and eVillage keep the party going

all weekend. Adult grandstand tickets start from $2,380. Concessions available. Tickets from www.ticketflap.com

NOV 25-27 Clockenflap The annual music festival will change location to Central this year, after five years at the West Kowloon Cultural District. The line-up includes Icelandic post-rockers Sigur Rós, reggae Kiwi band Fat Freddy’s Drop and Swedish indie folk singer-songwriter and guitarist José González.

Tickets from $850 from www.clockenflap.com.

Concessions available.

DEC 8-11 Disney on Ice Join Mickey, Minnie, Donald and Goofy on a walk down memory lane through your favourite Disney films. Dive into the ocean with Dory and brave the wintry world of Frozen. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai.

Tickets $280-$680 from www.hkticketing.com.hk, 3128 8288.

DEC 8-JAN 1 Wicked The spellbinding musical, which has cast its magic on more than 50 million theatre goers worldwide, will take to the stage at the Hong Kong Academy for the Performing Arts.

Inspired by L. Frank Baum’s Wizard of Oz, find out how the wicked witch of the west became so wonderfully wicked. Tickets from $445 at hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.

Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk.

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A New Season of Theatrical Adventures! planner

star New S ts S e epte ason mbe r 17 th

Term-Time Weekly Drama Workshops With qualified and experienced leaders, unrivaled resources and over 17 years of experience, we offer the best of drama and theatrical education Join us for drama workshops that develop self-confidence and teamwork in a fun-filled learning environment

For ages 3 to 18 at venues across Hong Kong and Kowloon including: Sheung Wan

Mid Levels

Stanley

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Kowloon Tong

Pok Fu Lam

Discovery Bay

“It’s great fun. It’s the one activity I never want to miss!”

Faust Student, age 11

Contact us now to reserve your child’s place for this September Call 2547 9114 Email Info@FaustWorld.com Visit www.FaustWorld.com FaustHongKong 5th Floor, Nan Dao Commercial Building 359 & 361 Queen's Road Central Sheung Wan

Top 10

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Summer After-School | 13 WWW.MID-LEVELS.CO Activities Activities for for Kids Tots to Teens

news

Genie in a bottle Hong Kong-based Genie Juicery has opened its third store, this time in Sai Ying Pun. The Third Street shop serves up daily fresh cold pressed juices, superfood smoothies, cold brew coffees as well as a range of healthy snacks and salads.

Already well-known for their juice cleanses, Genie Juicery will continue to stock over thirty different juice flavours while also introducing new items like the smoothie bowls - a bowl with blended fruits, vegetables and tasty toppings.

56-72 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun.

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Founders Cara G McIlroy and Melanie Barnish outside the new Sai Ying Pun store.

news

Fancy dress is a must at the Sedan Chair race for charity.

Charity race on The Peak The 42nd Sedan Chair Race will be held at the Matilda International Hospital on Sunday October 30. The annual charity race, which sees teams of eight runners and one passenger race along the 2.1km route on Mount Kellett Road, raises money for a number of small local charities. Superheroes, smurfs and even Egyptian pharaohs have been seen making the arduous climb. This year promises to be no different with an array of colourful costumes

and elaborate chair designs on show. A family carnival atmosphere awaits the finishers as games, food and live music is held at Matilda Hospital.

The Sedan Chair Charities Fund has raised over $68 million for 134 charities since its inception and applications for the 2016 team races are now open.

Visit www.sedanchairace.org for more information.

On yer bike A new pitstop for Hong Kong’s cyclists has opened in Sheung Wan. Velo6, a multi-concept cycling cafe and shop, comprises a retail section stocking international cycling apparel, accessories and parts, as well as a cafe serving coffee, ice creams and energy-boosting snacks.

Cyclists can stop by the store for some essential repairs and take advantage of the complimentary on-site tool kit and bike pump while also enjoying free water and phone charging stations. Aiming to become a local meeting point for cycling enthusiasts, the founders of Velo6 are keen to engage with Hong Kong’s cycling community and plans are underway to organise cycling events in the coming months.

G/F, 6 On Wo Lane, Sheung Wan, www.velo6.cc, 2338 8900.

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win at www.mid-levels.co

free stuff GIVEAWAYS

enter to win!

The Gruffalo’s Child

Escapade Sports

The Gruffalo’s Child is an award-winning and heartwarming story of bravery and perseverance. Written as a sequel to The Gruffalo, this hugely popular show will have songs, laughs and scary fun for children aged 3 and up.

Back to school equals back to sport!

Whether it’s a new rugby kit, hockey stick or even swimwear you’re after, Escapade Sport is a one-stop shop for all your sporting needs.

We have a family set of four tickets to the opening show on September 30 to give away.

Deadline: September 23

We have two $500 vouchers up for grabs.

Deadline: September 21

Mulberry House

Stazione Novella

​​ Fast track your child’s Mandarin learning journey through interactive and engaging activities at Mulberry House. The Mandarin Immersion Programme for children from eight months to eight years old allows children to speak, read and write Mandarin with experienced native teachers.

Located on the bustling corner of SoHo’s Staunton and Aberdeen Streets, Stazione Novella is a dog-friendly neighbourhood wine bar that pays homage to the simple Italian boltholes found around the train station in Florence. A robust list of Italian wines and classic cocktails is complemented by a simple menu of panini and other Italian fare.

We have one $2,000 voucher for six 60-minute classes to give away.

Deadline: September 22

We’re giving away one voucher worth $1,000 to one lucky reader.

Deadline: September 26

Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: www.mid-levels.co/subscribe

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Mid-levels magazine

Editorial

Editor Callum Wiggins callum@fastmedia.com.hk Contributing Editor Shreena Patel shreena@fastmedia.com.hk

five minutes with...

so wong, so right

Yenn Wong

The prolific restaurateur reveals how it all began and how to stay relevant in Hong Kong’s hotly contested dining scene.

Annie Wong annie@fastmedia.com.hk Carolynne Dear carolynne@fastmedia.com.hk Editorial Assistant Eric Ho eric@fastmedia.com.hk

Design

Senior Graphic Designer Cindy Suen cindy@fastmedia.com.hk Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@fastmedia.com.hk

Thanks to

Adele Brunner Amanda Sheppard Angela Tufvesson Belinda Bamford Esther Chan Kimberley Woo Rebecca Simpson Rory Mackay Sérgio Marçal Stanley Leung Stephanie Brown Victor Chau

Publisher

Tom Hilditch tom@fastmedia.com.hk

Published by

Fast Media Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Photo by: Belinda Bamford

My career in Hong Kong started after my father bought a small building in Causeway Bay. He asked me to figure out what to do with it.

He was an entrepreneur and my role model. I always wanted to follow in his footsteps.

The boutique hotel industry was gaining popularity overseas but there was nothing of that sort in Hong Kong. I invited acclaimed designer Philippe Starck to work on designing the hotel.

After the hotel’s success, I went on to open restaurants in Hong Kong. 208 Duecento Otto being the first on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan. The area was so different to the trendy neighbourhood it has now become. Back in 2010, there was little to no foot traffic and the key trade in the area was antiques and coffins – it was completely underdeveloped.

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I saw potential though. There were more and more art galleries moving in, the Asian Art Archive was opposite the restaurant and both freelancers and creatives were starting to move their offices into the neighbourhood. The rental price was great and the space felt right.

had both been roped into being judges for it. We own Duddell’s restaurant together and tend to talk shop a lot.

We took a leap of faith and opened. It proved a great success. With a buzzy neighbourhood vibe and rustic Italian cuisine, it became one of Hong Kong’s hottest Italian restaurants. I’m confident that it remains so even six years after opening.

With all of the JIA Group restaurants, we try to offer diners a few hours of respite from Hong Kong’s hectic, always-on culture.

Every step we take, whether it is a good or bad one, is part of a lifetime learning curve. I wouldn’t change any of the decisions I’ve made, as all our past experiences make us who we are today.

I met my husband Alan Lo (Founder of Press Room Group) at a jewellery competition for young people in Hong Kong. We

Hong Kong’s vibrant culinary scene is great, but it’s also a very competitive one.

It’s easy to build a new busy restaurant but to sustain it takes a lot of persistence and discipline.

We have a few exciting projects in the pipeline. The first will be a new all-day dining and bar concept which looks set to open later this year. Our other project is set for early next year, but I can’t tell you much about it just yet...

I love Singapore, but at the moment, Hong Kong is home.

Who knows about the future? M

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Mid-levels

local

magazine

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Digital Marketing Manager Charmaine Mirandlila charmaine@fastmedia.com.hk

Sales & Marketing Sales Manager Oliver Simons oliver@fastmedia.com.hk

Sales & Marketing Executive Egbert Cheung egbert@fastmedia.com.hk Maria Jones maria@fastmedia.com.hk Bonnie Li bonnie@fastmedia.com.hk

Pedestrians and vehicles compete for space on Des Voeux Road Central.

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Accounting Assistant Jason To jason@fastmedia.com.hk Office Security Cat the dog

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GIVE US A CALL! Admin: 3568 3722 Editorial: 2776 2773 Advertising: 2776 2772, 3563 9755 Mid-levels Magazine is published by Fast Media Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication.

The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Southside Magazine cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or pubishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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Walk this way

The same view from an artist’s impression of the pedestrianised zone.

Plans to transform a stretch of Des Voeux Road Central into a pedestrianised zone could pave the way for similar projects around Hong Kong, writes Callum Wiggins.

D

es Voeux Road Central, one of Hong Kong’s busiest thoroughfares, is set to be turned into a pedestrianised area for one afternoon in September. The event - Very DVRC - will see a 1.4km stretch of road from Morrison Street to Pedder Street transformed on September 25 by Very Hong Kong, an independent, not-for-profit foundation which encourages community engagement. Very Hong Kong has brought together a coalition of various non-profit organisations including Hong Kong Public Space Initiative, Clean Air Network and WALK DVRC for the one-day public space event.

The organisers are welcoming a number of collaborators to engage the general public on the day through live music, arts, sports and community outreach workshops.

While the list of collaborators is still being finalised, an outdoor community art gallery, cinema, a street performance orchestra and even a space for football matches have been proposed.

Various groups including the University of Hong Kong’s faculty of architecture have been working together since 2015 to develop the possibility of a pedestrianised Des Voeux Road Central.

Due to the scale of the project, discussions have taken place with a number of different

government departments to explain the concept and raise support. Talks with the Transport Department, Hong Kong Police, the Fire Services Department and District Office have sought to resolve issues from traffic flow to public safety. “It has been full of obstacles because it is an unbeaten path”, says Winnie Tse, Campaign Officer of Clean Air Network. “We are not just talking about a small public space. There has never been a civic event of such a scale, everyone, from the general public to the government, is new to this”.

While the priority of the event is to engage the public on how to co-create and manage public

chasing pavements

(from top); Patrick Fung, CEO of Clean Air Network; the 1.4km stretch of Des Voeux Road Central to be closed to traffic.

spaces, the issue of air pollution is something the organisers are keen to highlight.

In the wake of the Occupy movement in 2014, which paralysed streets in Central and Admiralty, it was claimed by groups, including Clean Air Network, that air quality monitoring stations recorded drops in roadside pollution levels just a few days into the movement. While an event lasting for just a few hours on a Sunday afternoon is unlikely to see any significant drop in pollution levels, the organisers hope that the chance to make Hong Kong’s air more breathable catches the public’s attention. “For 20 years our air quality has never reached the standard set by the Hong Kong government, while our standard is actually way lower than that of other countries”, says Patrick Fung, CEO of Clean Air Network. “So you can imagine how it threatens all road users of Des Voeux Road Central, including roadside workers. Our aim is

to promote walkability and to lower our dependence on motor vehicles. It’s not just about air quality, it is also about the living standard of a city, as well as the future of Hong Kong – just how far can we go towards the goal of building a sustainable city?”.

While pedestrians may only be able to breathe easier for one Sunday afternoon, should the initiative prove a success, the organisers are confident the same idea can be repeated in other districts. “We hope this event will open the door to imagination”, says Tse of Clean Air Network. “We want the government to focus not just on the technical challenges of a oneoff event, but also the vision and concept behind the campaign.

Public support and community engagement is of great help to convince them”.

For more information about Very DVRC on September 25, visit dvrc.hk/very-dvrc. M

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neighbourhood

The view of The Helena May today on Garden Road

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The rear view of Helena May and its grounds in 1916.

A beautiful garden where members can relax.

neighbourhood

May day

Graceful queen of Garden Road, The Helena May turns 100 this month. Carolynne Dear met up with current chair of council, Tina Seib.

T

The Institute is formally opened, September 12, 1916 “Ladies and Gentlemen, the war has shown in a remarkable manner what splendid work women can do in directions hitherto closed to their energies… It seems opportune therefore at this juncture that this Institute should be opened when it can fittingly and usefully form the centre of women’s work in this Colony… The management of this Institute is the largest work which women have undertaken as yet in this Colony… I am convinced that by the exercise of thrift, patience and unselfishness, characteristics which mark women far above men, your success is well assured.”

Speech by Dr Lander, Bishop of Victoria, as reported in the South China Morning Post, 13 September.

here’s a gentle buzz of conversation and the chink of cutlery scraping china as I am whisked through an elegant Edwardian dining room and into the even more glorious confines of the “Blue Room”. It is lunch time at the Helena May, as members and their guests enjoy a cool catch-up over a meal or a drink, on what is a stinking hot day outside.

This is Hong Kong’s “club for women”, a private institution for Hong Kong’s ladies to meet, socialise and network, and I am here to find out more about its remarkable past from current chair of council, Tina Seib.

It was set-up and initially run by Lady Helena May - wife of Hong Kong’s then governor, Sir Francis Henry May - and financed by various wealthy donors of the day, including Ho Kom Tong, the Ho Tung family and Dr Ellis Kadoorie.

Its raison d’etre was as a safe and comfortable refuge for the increasing numbers of single, expatriate women arriving in Hong Kong. As a mother of four daughters, Lady May was no doubt well aware of the lack of facilities in Hong Kong for single women at that time.

The beginning of the twentieth century was a period of increasing independence and social mobility for women. The suffragette movement was in full swing in Britain, while new technology - such as the telephone and the typewriter - was opening up jobs suited to “female characteristics”, namely “nimble fingers” and a “polite manner”.

Many women ventured overseas - in search of employment and adventure - encouraged by advertising from the British Women’s Emigration Association as well as male migration.

“Of course a certain percentage came on a husband-hunting mission, as was common at the time,” explains current chair of council, Tina Seib. “But many others came to work.

Whatever their reasons, these women needed a safe place to stay, a respectable address for job applications, and somewhere they could meet other women.” Modern Hong Kong is a world away from the city of the 1900s where disease and neighbourhoods of ill-repute were widespread.

Over the years, the club has become somewhat synonymous with its matronly 10pm curfew and “no gentlemen upstairs” rule. But this should not detract from the role it played in enabling many single women to live and work comfortably in Hong Kong in a patriarchal

society.

The club still boasts accommodation, both for long and short-term stays. “The residents effectively live in a grand mansion house and have the run of the place,” enthuses Esther Morris in her book “Helena May”. “There is nowhere else quite like it.”

Wealthy, educated colonial wives, increasingly recognised for their positive effect on life in the Empire, were also drawn to the Helena May. “Although their lives often revolved around social gatherings, they also provided… a good deal of productive charity work… Indeed colonial wives have been described as “one of the empire’s greatest assets”, according to Margaret Strobel, author of European Women and the Second British Empire.

“We are lucky to have an immense pool of talent and skill-sets amongst our membership today,” says Seib. “Whether they are homemakers, mothers, lawyers, journalists, bankers or architects, Hong Kong born-andbred or here on a fleeting two-year contract, our members all have something positive to contribute to the club. The varied membership also continues the club’s tradition of being an excellent networking base for women.”

Indeed all members are expected to volunteer towards the running of the Helena May in some shape or form, whether it’s manning desk in the library from time to time, advising on building maintenance, or helping to organise charity and social events.

The grand Edwardian building itself is an adaptation of the Renaissance style, designed by architects Denison, Ram & Gibbs, who also worked on the Matilda Hospital and the Repulse Bay Hotel. It originally boasted a recreation ground, a lecture and concert hall, a reading and writing room, and a room “for afternoon teas, where members are allowed to bring in their gentlemen friends.”

Seib is keen to impress that the maintenance of the building, the outside of which is listed, is the responsibility of the club’s council. The last three years have seen extensive renovations, including re-wiring, damp-proofing and the opening up and restoration of original ceilings covered during the 1980s, most notably in the elegant Blue Room.

The Helena May was deliberately positioned close to Central, close to The Peak tram (The Peak was home for most colonial ladies who

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neighbourhood would have been involved with the club), close to the Governor’s house on Upper Albert Road, and just across the road from St John’s Cathedral. In those days, Garden Road was just that, a leafy enclave. These days the club battles somewhat with the noise from the concrete overpasses that now thread their waythrough Mid-levels.

To non-members, the club is probably bestknown for its extensive library, and for its ballet school - The Carol Bateman School of Dancing - which has seen thousands of tutu-bedecked children come through its doors since it was founded in 1948. Bateman had been interred in Stanley during the war and was anxious to start children’s dancing classes as she had done in Shanghai before the war - she began with four sessions a week, renting a room for 20 pounds.

The library was founded in the 1920s and today holds the largest private collection of English-language books in Hong Kong.

During the second world war, all the books were removed and replaced with Japanese tomes in a propaganda drive to impress Japanese culture onto an unreceptive local Chinese population.

The club itself was used for stabling horses and was completely looted by the Japanese.

After the war, members were encouraged to “bring a book” each time they visited the club in an effort to return the library to its former glory. The children’s section now contains over 6,000 books and junior club membership is offered for free so children can use the library (“book borrowing by children is surprisingly on the increase,” notes Seib), although men can only join as associate members.

The Helena May is also still very much a charity-driven institution. It supports a different charity each year - this year the Marycove Centre in Aberdeen. There is a

student mentoring programme in conjunction with Hong Kong University, and the club also offers two scholarships each year for the Hong Kong Academy of Performing Arts. A former recipient of a Helena May scholarship, Pik-sun Chan, now a professional musician, returned to perform at the club’s centenary launch celebrations in February.

In a rather nice twist, the club shares its centenary with the Hong Kong Girl Guide Association, a group with which it still retains links. Each year, English-speaking members volunteer to test local Guides working towards their English Conversation Badge at an Annual Assessment Day, where the girls and their families are invited into the club.

Its graceful interiors coveted by many a bride-to-be, the club also hosts around 50 weddings a year.

It may not be the hippest club in town, it has no sporting teams to boast of and its facilities are minimal, but in its own way the Helena May has quietly stayed true to its mission of supporting Hong Kong’s women and the local community for one hundred - often tumultuous - years.

As I take my leave, Seib points out a golden plaque that has recently been hung in the front porch. It’s engraved with all the women to have taken the chair of the club since 1916. “We’ve never had anything like this,” she says, giving it a quick polish. “The club has never really boasted about what it has achieved. And then I thought, why not? These women have quietly worked so hard. So we had this little plaque made.”

Indeed, as remarked by the Bishop of Victoria during the opening ceremony: “The management of this Institute… shall not be an easy task. I shall watch your work with an interest.”

It would seem that the ladies have done him proud. M

Chronology of The Helena May 1863

Helena Barker was born on March 27

1890

The Barker family arrived in Hong Kong.

The Hong Kong Benevolent Society set up as a ladies’ charitable committee Helena married Henry May

1912 4 July:

1914 22 January:

30 January:

1916 12 September

1941 December:

Ho Kom Tong offered a matching sum Construction of the Helena May Institute commenced The Helena May Institute opened Building taken over by Public Works Department

1945

Japan surrendered (VJ Day)

August: October:

Helena died at Clare Hall in Suffolk RAF took over the building as their headquarters

1946 December

RAF handed the building back

1947

The Helena May Institute reopened to members

1953

The first associate (male) member joined

1974

Name changed from the ‘The Helena May Institute’ to ‘The Helena May’

1993

The exterior of the main building became a declared monument

2016 September The Hong Kong Girl Guides Association outside The Helena May in 1916

Ellis Kadoorie offered money for the Helena May Institute

Japanese used the Helena May building to house troops and to stable horses

8 October

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Henry sworn in as 15th Governor of Hong Kong

Centenary celebrations

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arts & culture

See Jonathan Pryce as Shylock. Photography by Manuel Harlan.

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arts & culture

Globetrotting

Amanda Sheppard speaks with Jonathan Munby, director of the Globe Theatre’s touring production of The Merchant of Venice, before the play debuts in Hong Kong.

T

Hi Jonathan. You’re midway through The Merchant of Venice’s world tour. What’s the experience been like so far?

It’s been wonderful to see how this story is received by different kinds of audiences across the world. We’ve been blessed with the responses, with audiences on their feet in every city. It’s quite a young cast and some of the actors have never travelled to the places we are going, it’s very exciting to give them this special experience.

Have you noted differing reactions to the play? Or is Shakespeare’s tale transcending cultural difference?

It speaks to the genius and humanity of Shakespeare that the play is able to tap into the soul of whichever audience we play to. This piece transcends culture. For me, the play goes beyond a view of anti-Semitism and becomes a metaphor for hatred, intolerance and prejudice towards any minority group. We live in a world full of fear and hatred, perpetuated by our leaders. This play feels like a cautionary tale of the consequences of treating people like second-class citizens and denying difference.

Have you sought to adapt the productions for the differing audiences?

No, we are keeping the production exactly the same for each audience… this is very important to me.

Photos courtesy of Manuel Harlan

he late great playwright once wrote, ‘all that glisters is not gold’. Truer words were perhaps never said about the 17th century Shakespearean tragedy The Merchant of Venice. The dark tale of death, debt and deception comes to Hong Kong as part of the Globe Theatre’s travelling production from September 7-11, at the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts – pound of flesh and all.

Having toured the United Kingdom and the United States extensively, the Asian leg of the tour promises to deliver the same high quality performance – with standing ovations and critical acclaim having quickly become the norm. Jonathan Munby shares his experiences in producing one of Shakespeare’s most contentious plays, delivering a fair portrayal of Shylock, one of Shakespeare’s most notorious villains (played by renowned British actor Jonathan Pryce), and more with Mid-levels magazine…

The Merchant of Venice is one of Shakespeare’s more controversial plays.

Were you concerned with handling the issue of racism, and anti-Semitism in particular?

I was certainly nervous to be taking on such a difficult play. The piece is an extraordinary battle between dramatic opposites: light and dark, humorous and sad, strength and weakness. I knew that it would be hard to find the balance. In terms of the race issues in the play, I grasped this with both hands. The play holds a mirror up to the world in which we live and I’m very grateful for that. It inspires dialogue and discussion about the way we treat each other and the society in which we want to live.

The characters in this play are inherently complex. How were you looking to bring out the different dimensions in characters as villainous as Shylock?

By not judging them… You can argue that all of these characters are as villainous as each other.

I don’t think that any of them are sympathetic, they are all pretty self-serving and unpleasant – all are very human. The important thing is to not get in the way of any of their human foibles, but to reveal their soul; the good and the bad. I’m always only ever interested in real people in real situations, struggling to make sense of each other, themselves and the world.

Could you tell us a little bit about the staging and lighting that’s been created for the touring production – are you looking to embody the Globe’s unique atmosphere?

Because the Globe is an outdoor space without much lighting and sound technology, we have had to create a new production for the tour.

It’s been a real joy to come back to the show, this time with a lighting designer and a sound designer, and to allow them to bring their own magic. There are a number of ways we have tried to hold onto the Globe experience, from getting the actors into the theatre, and keeping the house lights up, so that the actors never lose the audience, nor the audience lose each other. But ultimately, we have created this production anew.

And are the cast firm friends after travelling around the world together?

They love each other, for the moment… ask me again at the end of the tour!

The Merchant of Venice’s world tour continues in Hong Kong from September 7-11 at the Hong Kong Academy of Performing Arts.

Tickets $495-$795 from www.hkticketing.com.hk

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arts & culture

South Island Art Day 2016

Amanda Sheppard speaks to the founder of the South Island Cultural District and picks the exhibitions you simply can’t miss.

O

n September 24, the fourth annual South Island Art Day takes place, embracing the district’s hard earned title as Hong Kong’s new arts hub.

Organised by the South Island Cultural District (SICD), the day promises to be filled with art, music, dance and more. The SICD represents over 20 post-industrial art galleries, artist studios and art spaces in Wong Chuk Hang, Ap Lei Chau and Tin Wan, whose high ceilings and wide-open spaces are the perfect setting for displays of contemporary art.

Free shuttles run from Central throughout the day, so you can come and go as you please, though with 22 participating galleries to visit, I can’t imagine you’ll be running off too quickly. Here are my top picks.

Art Statements – Icones II Takeru Amano’s iconic works are on display until September 30. Drawing influence from pinup models, Amano (himself a pinnacle member of the Japanese ‘New Art Movement’) carefully examines uniquely Japanese circumstances through a lens shaped by his international background – Amano studied painting in Paris before returning to Japan.

His work has been exhibited in Japan, Korea, Hong Kong and throughout Europe. Icones II references popular culture and iconic mythology through a reworking of the popular anime style, leaving the audience to interpret the blank, expressionless faces of Amano’s subjects.

Gee Chang Hong Centre, Factory D, 8/F, 65 Wong Chuk Hang Road. www. artstatements.com

CHARBON – Translatio Charbon Art Space opens a new exhibition on SICD Art Day, in celebration of the gallery’s first anniversary and the life of famed French artist Édouard Levé, who passed away in 2007. In memory of the self-taught painter, photographer and novelist, artists Mark Chung, Enoch Cheng, Phoebe Hui, Cally Yu, Christophe Bonacorsi and Regis Gonzales are exhibiting works in several mediums – including sound design, performance art, installations, novels, photographs and a series of talks and lectures.

It promises to be an immersive experience. 8/F Sing Tek Factory, 44 Wong Chuk Hang Road. www.charbonartspace.com

8/F Sing Tek Factory, 44 Wong Chuk Hang Road. www.charbonartspace.com M

Rossi & Rossi – Beautiful Decay Four years on from his first solo exhibition (Tibetan Spirit, at Rossi & Rossi’s London space) Tibetan artist Tsherin Sherpa presents his latest works at the gallery’s Hong Kong site. Sherpa studied traditional Tibetan thangka painting under his father – a notable thangka artist in his own right. His works have been exhibited in London, Beijing, and across the United States. Despite his international success and appeal, Sherpa (who was born in Nepal but now resides in the United States) maintains his trademark nods to tradition and references to his Buddhist philosophy.

Unit 3C, Yally Industrial Building, 6 Yip Fat Street. www.rossirossi.com

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eating

dining news High dining ALTO, Dining Concepts’ newest restaurant, is now open in Causeway Bay. Executive chef Michael Boyle has created a grill-centric menu with influences from French and Asian cuisine.

USDA Prime and Argentinian grass-fed beef cooked to chargrilled perfection look set to be the highlights from the menu.

A private champagne room with floor-toceiling windows overlooking Victoria Harbour is ideal for intimate gatherings and special occasions. Diners are treated to a bespoke menu and personal service from Chef Boyle.

Blackened timber table tops and molten metal brass fittings add a classy touch.

31/F, V Point, Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay, 2603 7181.

Healthy takeaway Following the success of its first branch in Wan Chai last year, healthy Cantonese-style restaurant Kasa has opened its second branch in Central. Focussing on its vegetable-forward concept, Kasa highlights vegetables and plantbased ingredients in its healthy, grab-and-go takeaway fare. Starting at $68 for a takeaway box of three mix-and-match items, choose from dishes including sweet potato noodles with shiitake mushrooms and onsen egg, eggplant lasagna, and quinoa with minced chicken.

Homemade beverages and desserts complete the menu. A few tables and chairs inside the ‘cha chaan teng’ themed interior are ideal for a quick sit-down meal too.

61 Wellington Street, Central, 2868 6864.

Tai Hang’s new gastropub The gentrification of Tai Hang shows no sign of slowing down as new gastropub, Second Draft, officially opens. Just steps from historic Fire Dragon Path, Second Draft features locally brewed beer from Young Master Ales along with dishes from chef May Chow - the creative genius behind Little Bao on Staunton Street.

To soak up all that craft beer, the gastropub-style food menu draws inspiration from both Hong Kong and regional Chinese cuisine. Chef favourites include the Mapo burrata salad, a twist on the classic Mapo tofu dish, instead featuring a whole ball of burrata cheese with minced pork and baby spinach.

In addition to a large range of craft beer, the Second Draft team are keen to show off its small-batch spirits, biodynamic wines and house-made soda made throughout the day.

G/F, 98 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, 2656 0232.

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Over the moon for mooncakes Unfortunately G.O.D aren’t bringing out their cheeky ‘moon’cakes this year (mooncakes shaped like a bum), but they are partnering with Tai Cheong bakery and showcasing their signature mini mooncakes. Each box contains six bitesized mini mooncakes with three red bean and three custard flavours. $159 per box.

Available in G.O.D. stores across Hong Kong.

Light, airy and delicate - the limited edition mini egg custard mooncakes from Spring Moon at The Peninsula melt in the mouth. While the exact proportions and ingredients are kept under wraps, Spring Moon’s team uses a traditional recipe using rich duck eggs to bring out the best flavour. $485 per box. For more information, call 2696 6828 or email mooncakephk@peninsula.com. www.peninsula.com.

Mandarin Oriental’s specialty mooncakes include golden or white lotus with egg yolk ($468 for four pieces), mini red bean paste with egg yolk, and mini egg custard mooncakes ($378 for six pieces). This year, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Man Wah, is also offering limited edition mini mooncakes with only 500 boxes available ($588 for six pieces). Available until September 15. Order by calling 2825 4008 or emailing mohkg-cakeshop@mohg. com, www.mandarinoriental. com/hongkong

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eating

Eat up the views from CE LA VI’s rooftop terrace.

The brunch club

Callum Wiggins indulges in Hong Kong’s favourite weekend pastime.

ALL WEEKEND AFFAIR

CE LA VI CE LA VI’s weekend brunch stretches into the sunset thanks to its two sessions on a Sunday with the final sitting coming to an end at 6pm. Eschewing a buffet style brunch, guests can either order à la carte or delve into hot and cold platters which include prawns, oysters, assorted salads and sushi rolls, ideal for sharing. Signature dishes include the Miso black cod and the chicken in Thai peanut satay sauce. The New Zealand lamb chops served with a unique Asian BBQ baste are not to be missed while the classic smoked salmon eggs benedict has been given an Japanese twist thanks to a shichimi hollandaise which includes a dash of sake, yuzu and seven spice powder.

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Going down a real treat is the Bloody Mary station where guests can create their own brunch classic with different condiments, including hot sauces, spice mixes, herbs and garnishes.

Make your way up to the Sky Deck after brunch where residents DJs spin Café Del Mar beats into the evening.

The weekend brunch is priced at $488 for food only with an additional $88 for free-flow non-alcoholic drinks and $248 for free-flow alcoholic drinks including Perrier-Jouët Champagne, selected red and white wines, beers and cocktails.

25/F, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, hk.celavi.com, 3700 2300.

best brunches

GREEDY PIGGIES

Help yourself to as much meat as you can eat on a Sunday afternoon.

A la carte options available too.

Flying Pig Bistro Newly opened this year on Sai Ying Pun High Street, Flying Pig Bistro’s brunch is ideal for those craving a traditional Sunday roast.

Diners can opt for either the a la carte menu or the all-you-can-eat roast buffet. Dishes from the a la carte menu include brunch staples like smashed avocado on sourdough toast, pancakes with blueberry jam or even a quinoa

Seafood Room

muesli served with soya yoghurt, fresh fruit and honey.

For a bargain price of just $188, the allyou-can-eat roast buffet includes roasted beef, chicken and pork accompanied with grilled vegetables and roast potatoes. While the interior is not large, we liked the stripped back look and the piggie inspired murals as well as

the friendly neighbourhood vibe and service.

The all-you-can-eat roast buffet is served from 12pm-4pm with a two hour sitting. Freeflow wine and spirits can be added for an additional $188.

62 High Street, Sai Ying Pun, 2540 0311.

CAT

CH Up the ante for your Sunday OF THE brunch with Seafood Room’s DAY sky-high bottomless brunch.

Boasting some of the best panoramic views of the city, high above the bustling streets of Causeway Bay. Free-flow champagne and caviar accompany a spread of raw seafood dishes and salads at the buffet bar, while the chefs show off their knife skills on full size tuna and salmon preparing fresh sashimi on the spot. Mains include a choice of Miso salmon with lime, herb-roasted sea bass with lemon or roasted free-range chicken. Don’t miss the dessert platter which comes loaded with Yuzu tart, cheesecake and fresh fruits.

Stretch out the afternoon by grabbing a cocktail concocted by top mixologist Match Chan while kids are kept entertained by a magician roaming the decks with colourful fish-shaped balloons.

The Sunday brunch is $598 for adults plus an extra $338 for free-flow Perrier Jouet champagne. Children aged between four and 10 years eat for $299 and children three and under eat for free.

26/F, 535 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, seafoodroom.hk, 3708 9668.

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eating

WALLET FRIENDLY

Casa Lisboa

Featuring over 35 Portuguese delicacies including all-you-can-eat roasted whole suckling pig and free dining for children aged eight and under, the Casa Lisboa brunch buffet is not only kind on the wallet but also great for the whole family. Available on Saturdays and Public Holidays, the brunch features a selection of Portuguese family appetisers including Palm Heart with pesto dressing, chouriço and spinach quiche and cured Portuguese ham.

All-you-can-eat signature dishes, aside from Casa Lisboa’s crowd-pleasing roasted suckling

pig, include grilled piri piri chicken, traditional Alentejana style pork loin and clams with potato and coriander.

Don’t worry about the kids getting bored either as you work your way around the buffet table, the restaurant’s playroom will keep the little ones occupied. Prices for the brunch buffet are $328 for adults, $168 for children aged nine to 12, and free for children aged eight and under. Free-flow options available.

8/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, 2905 1168.

All-you-can-eat roasted suckling pig is the star dish at Casa Lisboa

Lily & Bloom

It’s all stars and stripes at Lily & Bloom with AMERICAN CLASSICS an “all American weekend brunch”. You can stuff yourself silly by making trips to the appetisers buffet which features light salads, charcuterie, fresh seafood as well as a made-to-order omelette station made with quail and duck eggs and decadent toppings including truffle and bone marrow.

Served table-side are classic American Diner dishes from the blackboard. Our favourites included the BLT avocado toast and the brioche french toast which comes with generous dollops of cream, sweet berry compote and drizzles of maple syrup. The corned beef hash was an unexpected dish but surprisingly tasty.

Brunchers can enjoy the unlimited table-side dishes and appetisers buffet for $325 while free-flow bellinis, Bloody Mary’s and beers are an additional $195.

5-6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, 2810 6166.

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American classics are the flavour of the weekend at Lily & Bloom.

best brunches

aqua

Free-flow champage and the best views in town at aqua

BEST VIEWS

Whether you’re new to Hong Kong, bringing guests from out of town, or a seasoned bruncher, aqua’s top-notch service and beautiful views never fail to impress. The current Summer Infinity brunch includes limitless cocktails and Veuve Clicquot champagne while Italian chef, Paolo Morresi, and Japanese chef, Iwahashi Tatsuya, prepare platters of starters and dessert and a choice of a main dish. We particularly enjoyed the

fresh sushi and sashimi platter but found the desserts were hit and miss. Diners can start brunch from 12pm and last orders for food and drinks is at 3pm. The adult brunch menu starts from $448 per person plus an extra $150 for free-flow. Children under five eat for free and children under 12 from $198.

29 and 30/F, 1 Peking Road Shopping Arcade, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427 2288. M

caption

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health & wellness

Say m In a city where excess rules, sometimes going small has the most impact. Here’s your guide to boutique yoga studios in and around Central, writes Angela Tufvesson.

Yoga BamBam Chic Yoga BamBam is best known for its aerial and acro yoga classes, and it also offers quirky takes on traditional yoga styles like forrest yoga and a bilingual class that doubles as a Cantonese lesson.

“Our yoga styles range from traditional to avant garde,” says owner Melanie Anderson.

“Aerial yoga is the most popular class, with many students reserving private classes and aerial yoga parties for their children.”

Each of the 15 teachers work on a freelance basis – with many holding day jobs as everything from doctors to lawyers, photographers and designers – which adds to

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the relaxed ambience.

“Yoga BamBam is cool, laid back and creative,” says Anderson. “There is no membership, no pesky sales staff and not even a receptionist. Sometimes students hang out after class – they meet friends and enjoy the carefree vibe of the tree-lined pedestrian terrace.”

Rates: $150 for classes with a new teacher or $200 for aerial yoga classes. Repeat classes are $200, and four, eight and 12-class packs are also available.

10 Shin Hing Street, Central; 28 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan, www.yogabambam.com

boutique yoga

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health & wellness

Flex Studio Keen to combine yoga practice with Pilates and barre? Flex Studio offers a mix of yoga classes, including vinyasa, hatha and ashtanga, along with Pilates and barre sessions sure to keep the heart pumping.

Despite the fitness focus, director Heather Thomas Shalabi says the studio offers a balanced approach to yoga. “We encourage everyone to practice yoga that suits their mind and body’s needs and allows for growth in their practice without feeling pressure to push past their limits,” she says.

Aromatherapy Associates sponsor three yoga classes each week. Instructors use specially chosen oils to improve breathing, rejuvenate the body and de-stress muscles. “I believe this is the first time aromatherapy has been combined with yoga, and the synergy is proving wonderfully effective,” says Shalabi.

Rates: Drop-in classes start at $255 and packages are also available for regulars.

3/F Man Cheung Building, 15-17 Wyndham Street, Central, www.flexhk.com Combine aromatherapy with yoga at Flex Studio

Inspire Yoga Too busy, lazy or self-conscious to attend group yoga classes? Enter Inspire Yoga, which offers private classes for up to four people in the comfort of home or work. Yogis can choose from 10 specialised programs, including beginner, back care and preand post-natal, or work with an instructor to create a customised programme that combines techniques from various schools of yoga.

“People that can benefit most from yoga are not always suited to a group class, especially if they’re dealing with pain or deep rooted tension, physically, mentally or emotionally,” says founder Neelam Harjani.

“Our programmes evolve from basic postures to more intermediate poses as our clients feel more confident and comfortable on the yoga mat. This way they are always learning and being challenged. There aren’t any standardised class sequences as we understand each client’s needs vary from class to class and we can tailor to their energy levels on each day.”

Rates: Private classes start at $800 per hour and for small groups of four prices start at $300 per person per hour. Yogis can choose from 60, 75 or 90-minute classes. Packs of five, 10 and 20 classes are also available. www.inspire-yoga.com

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Anahata Yoga At Anahata Yoga – named after the fourth primary chakra that represents love, compassion, charity, humour and courage – many of the instructors come from a lineage of yogis and have been practicing since childhood. “We believe yoga is not just another form of exercise but a lifestyle and that is how we embrace yoga and share its philosophy with all our students,” says director Anna Hsu. Yogis with specific needs are catered to with de-stress, back care, slimming, core and pre- and post-natal classes. Anahata also offers more traditional forms of yoga such as kundalini, andiappan and patanjali along with modern favourites like power flow, yin yang and kids yoga.

Rates: Drop-in classes are $300 and a package of 10 classes from $2,000.

Monthly memberships start at $888.

18/F, One Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, www.anahatayoga.com.hk

Iyengar Central Iyengar Central opened its doors in 1999 as Hong Kong’s first custom-built yoga studio. More than 15 years later, studio manager Karen Lam says the Iyengar classes are as popular as ever.

“We encourage students to gain self-knowledge and sustainable yoga practice while studying with us,” she says. “In other words, we would be happy to see our students graduate from our classes instead of being bound by our classes.” Classes cater to beginners and experienced yogis, and the studio is fully equipped with Iyengar essentials like mats, blocks, blankets, wall ropes and chairs.

Rates: Individual classes start at $180, four-class packs at $650 and 10-class packs at $1,400.

2C Welley Building, 97 Wellington Street, Central, www.yogacentral.com.hk

Pause

Anhao French expat Estelle Bertin launched Anhao – meaning ‘in good health’ in Mandarin – in 2013 at the top of iconic Ladder Street, which she says creates a unique atmosphere for yoga. “Our studio is the only one in Central to be surrounded by trees, squirrels and birds,” says Bertin. “The famous ladder of Ladder Street gives the studio the chance to be located in a really historic and authentic place in Hong Kong. We feel totally lost in the middle of the crazy-busy Hong Kong lifestyle.”

The mat packages allow yogis to enjoy ashtanga, yinyasa and core classes, along with yogilates and Pilates. Anhao also offers

Yogis are in good health at Anhao studio

reformer Pilates and personal training sessions.

Classes are limited to eight people, which Bertin says allows for one-on-one instruction and total relaxation.

“We feel so grateful when people arrive at the studio after work a bit stressed and finish their class looking like another person,” she says. “They’re totally relaxed even though they’ve worked on their core strength and flexibility.”

Rates: $230 per class, $800 for a four-class pack or $1,800 for a 10-class pack.

4/F, 5 Ladder Street, Sheung Wan, www.anhao-wellness.com

boutique yoga

Popular Lantau mainstay, Pause, opened a second studio in August in the former home of Sol Wellness on Graham Street. Pause encourages yogis to do just that – pause and take a break from life – with a focus on holistic wellness.

“Our studio philosophy is that yoga is for everyone and should meet you where you are at, on the mat and beyond,” says founder Jill Marshall. “We are a safe and friendly space where people can really connect to teacher, classmates and self.”

Pause is the ideal retreat for yogis looking to practice param gati, dharma and kundalini yoga. Nutrition consultations, Tibetan singing bowl healings, deep tissue massages and Ayurvedic consultations are also available.

‘Yoga lunches’ – a 45-minute class and healthy light lunch to enjoy at the studio or take back to the office – are offered Monday to Friday at 12.15pm.

Rates: $320 per class and $2,800 for packs of 10 classes. Lunch is an additional $80.

16/F Tin On Sing Commercial Building, 4143 Graham Street, Central, www.pause.hk M

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yoga yoda

Awkward Moments ...and other embarrassing stories in the life of a yoga teacher, writes yoga columnist Victor Chau.

H

aving taught yoga for over 4,000 hours, I’ve had my fair share of weird moments. Often my students think I’ve not picked up on their faux pas, but from my vantage point, I see everything.

Here are my top five:

5 The sleeping beauty It is nice to relax in savasana (corpse pose) at the end of a yoga class, but some students find it hard to stay present. Most often in an evening class, a hard working executive will fall sound asleep, snoring thunderously. This may be accompanied by drooling and - on occasion - mumbling. Sometimes, the culprit wakes him or herself up with a snort and tries to play it cool like nothing happened - but we all heard you.

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4 Letting it rip

2 Dropping the ball(s)

Yoga pants have been the subject of much debate in recent years, but one thing is certain: when pushed to their absolute limit they will rip.

A student in my class once had the back of her pants split wide open in malasana (yoga squat).

Worse, she didn’t realise, so the awkward job of letting her know fell to the gentleman behind.

Valiantly, she continued the class (after moving her mat to the back of the room).

While ladies tend to wear tighter yoga apparel, gentlemen often prefer to wear something loose. Unfortunately, in certain poses - such as seated wide straddle - this can result in men revealing more of themselves than they intended, especially if their shorts are without proper underwear support...

3 Fight club Cat pose is good for stretching the spine but cat fights are bad zen for the class. I once stood between two angry female students who were arguing over one of them taking a photo during the class. Soft hissing soon turned into hitting and hair pulling. I had to keep my cool - in a hot yoga room - and ask the troublemakers to leave.

1 Gone with the wind Yoga promotes an intestinal movement called peristalsis. Poses that involve twists and turns can aid digestion, so it is only natural that you might have to answer nature’s call after or during a class. Sometimes though, the wind will precede. If I hear a soft slip of sound - or a louder release - I ignore it (never apologise, this only draws attention). The worst ones are usually silent and harder to locate, but - like a ripple in a pond - slowly spread to affect the whole room.

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beauty

In deep water

The minutes float by in Zero Gravity’s flotation pod.

Esther Chan rediscovers her zen roots at Zero Gravity Floatation Spa.

I

t comes as no surprise to many readers that a failure to relax and let the world float by is a definitive Hong Kong pitfall. However, there is a potential solution to the stricken citizens of the SAR: the Zero Gravity Floatation Spa. The initial thing that strikes me with this spa is the veracity of its name - zero gravity achieved from soaking 500kg of Epsom salt in water, creating an environment more buoyant than the Dead Sea. Tucked away in a quiet area of Happy Valley, Zero Gravity gives off a bohemian vibe with its warm orange lights and two spacious rooms housing the flotation devices. The futuristic-looking white tanks sport multi-coloured flashing lights which attracted me from the get-go and I couldn’t wait to dive in. (Diving or exertion of any kind is unfortunately not allowed).

As instructed by Jan, one of the spa’s owners, there is no limit to enjoyment; relax, let your hair down and allow your thoughts to run wild. You’d be surprised to find just how hard this simple task is. Nervousness or claustrophobia can also strike in this pitch black environment, but don’t worry- you can keep the tank cover open and have the lights on if you want with a choice of blue, purple, green or red.

Zero Gravity is a totally different spa

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experience - utter isolation, no promoters peddling packages, no masseuse digging into painful pressure points - just me, myself and I for a cool hour.

I have no doubt I could have fallen asleep in a pool of weightless paradise Jan talked me through the procedure in great detail and left me alone to my watery retreat for a blissful hour. I wore earplugs before a shower as instructed, but with my elfin ears, that failed as they continuously dropped out. Not to worry, I said to myself, as I flicked off the light switch and treaded lightly towards the soft glow of the water tank.

I felt an instant surge of joy as I floated in the water; I can’t quite pinpoint why but as a not-so-confident swimmer, I was able to enjoy the experience with no anxiety of crashing waves. With arms and legs slightly stretched out, my body floated naturally, staying more or less in the middle of the tank. Everything was

perfect right up until my right earplug fell out, forcing me to sit up, drain my ear all the while attempting to locate the little troublemaker. The water that consequently dripped down my face tasted horribly bitter as the salt stung my eyes.

This came as quite a shock, but luckily a towel and water bottle, hooked conveniently on the wall, was close at hand. Remove the somewhat repetitive and frustrating earplug situation, I have no doubt I could have fallen asleep in a pool of weightless paradise.

I was surprisingly absent of thought as I floated in the tank although I did have to constantly adjust my posture. By the end of the treatment my neck was a little sore from over-arching and my eyes were a little irritated by the salt water. It was in this quasi existence that I was finally pulled to alertness by the five minute remaining jingle. Somewhat befuddled I couldn’t believe 60 minutes had passed as quick as a flash.

I hauled myself out of the tank feeling tired and drowsy but in a positive way. Rested and relaxed, what more can you ask for?

One 60-minute session starts from $999. For more information, visit zerog.hk M

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WWW.MID-LEVELS.CO | 43

big day out

Hoi Ha

Kayaking in Hoi Ha, a sanctuary for marine life.

Pak Lap Wan

Paddle power

Outdoor enthusiast Rory Mackay kayaks around Sai Kung Country Park on his latest adventure.

T

he beauty and diversity of Hong Kong’s landscapes is simply stunning. During the hot summer months, kayaking is an ideal way to explore our ‘backyard’. There are two different locations in the wilds of Sai Kung Country Park that will take your breath away.

Despite feeling like a complete wilderness, there are parts of the outermost Sai Kung Peninsula that are very accessible. The village of Hoi Ha provides an ideal spot for beginners and families that almost anyone could have a crack at; whilst our other featured location at Pak Lap Wan is a much more intrepid paddling experience at the best of times.

Hoi Ha Nestled on the southern end of a stunning coastal inlet, Hoi Ha is a sanctuary for many types of marine life and is among the most pristine places to be found in Hong Kong.

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Never mind the kayaking, for many the beautiful journey just to get there is worth the effort. However, once you dip your paddle into the clear calm waters, Hoi Ha takes on an entirely new aura.

Getting to Hoi Ha is pretty simple despite its far-flung location. Simply make your way to Sai Kung ferry pier, then embark on either a 20-minute minibus or taxi ride to Hoi Ha village. The minibus runs every half hour and a taxi will set you back around $120. Try to make this trip on weekdays, as there is a lot of pressure on transportation during weekends and public holidays. Don’t leave it too late in the day to head home either. From the bus stop, walk through the village directly down to the waterfront where there are a couple of different kayak vendors. You can rent a single kayak, life vest and paddle for $100 per day or double kayak for $200 (locker expenses included on weekdays).

Once on the water, Hoi Ha inlet is a joy to explore. With abundant sea life, scattered coral beds and beaches, there is more than enough to fill a day. If you’re eager to venture out further, navigate around the headland towards Wong Shek or Tap Mun Island and capture fantastic vistas of Sharp Peak.

Pak Lap Wan Tucked away in the secluded eastern reaches of Sai Kung Country Park, Pak Lap Wan serves as an ideal launch pad into the Hong Kong Geopark. The best way to reach Pak Lap Wan is by taxi from Sai Kung Town ($110) and walk down the hill from the road to the beach, the walk should take no more than 10 minutes. Once at the beach, there is a small building that rents out kayaks, camping equipment and prepares basic meals. A single sit down board will put you back $100 for the day; this includes a paddle and life vest. On

big day out

(Above); Rory Mackay takes his kayak out to sea around Sai Kung Country Park.

busier days, there is sometimes the option to return to Sai Kung by speedboat.

Out on the water one can either; follow the coastline northwards past rugged cliffs and around to the white sands of Long Ke for a picnic lunch, or paddle southeast to explore the dramatic sea arches of Wang Chau and Basalt Island.

Between April and September, the easterly trade winds tend to deviate elsewhere and this is the prime time to paddle the Geopark. You may get lucky during the other half of the year, but be prepared to paddle through swell and stay clear of the rocks. If

the conditions do turn out to be choppy on the day, then hug the coastline and head for the sheltered waters of Sai Kung harbour to the west. Although the rock formations there are not as pronounced, they are still impressive. However when winds and swell come from the east, make sure you are fully prepared. Pay close attention to forecasts and sea conditions prior to departure on the day; if you are not sure, then it is better to paddle somewhere safer like Hoi Ha or Sai Kung Town.

I will reiterate that heading out on the open waters around the Geopark is not

recommended for beginners and I would recommend joining a tour group. Two operators provide tours here; Kayak and Hike Ltd (www.kayak-and-hike.com) run by Paul Etherington who specialises in Geopark paddles and my company Wild Hong Kong (www.wildhongkong.com), operates tours to both the locations mentioned above. M

Rory Mackay runs adventure company Wild Hong Kong.

For details, visit www.wildhongkong.com

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home & living

Home comforts

Adele Brunner discovers how one Mid-levels apartment transformed from a blank canvas to a contemporary classic space, perfect for entertaining.

xx Info

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home & living

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home & living

I

t takes vision to spot the potential of a property that is in anything but a pristine condition and no small amount of courage to buy it. When the owners of this 1,800-squarefoot apartment in Mid-levels first saw what would eventually become their home, it was run down and in bad need of a makeover. But they went with their gut instincts and called in YC Chen, founder and creative director of hoo, to work some magic on it.

“The apartment had no features worth keeping so we gutted everything and started from scratch, ” says Chen, who this year won a 40 Under 40 award for interior design from Perspective magazine, which recognises rising design stars in Asia and beyond. “It had originally been a three-bedroom family apartment but we changed the layout of the whole place and gave it a completely new look.”

Contrary to what you might think, Chen says that having a blank canvas to work with was probably his biggest challenge. Instead of having to fit a design scheme around an existing floor plan, the possibilities were endless.

“We started with three pillars and that was it,” says Chen. “We could play around with the layout however we liked and at one point we had 15 different layouts to choose from. We were

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spoilt for choice, which makes decision making difficult.”

In the end, the couple decided on an openplanned kitchen, dining and living area that flow into one another, a master bedroom, two bathrooms and a spacious study. A cosy room off the living area is designed to have multiple functions. It can be anything from a quiet spot to read to an alternative place to entertain.

However, as the owners enjoy throwing parties, the glass doors, which separate this little den from the main space, are typically thrown open, offering maximum room for guests.

Easy entertaining is also the reason behind the kitchen/dining configuration. Guests sit at the dining table, which is connected to the kitchen counter, while the hosts can prepare food and still be part of the fun.

“One of my clients’ priorities was having room to entertain,” says Chen. “A large proportion of the space was devoted to the main living area in order to fit a lot of people comfortably at the same time. The dining counter doesn’t even have fixed chairs so that it can be used easily as a bar.”

The apartment’s design concept fuses timeless Parisian chic and vintage colonial elements, with an emphasis on stylish comfort.

The checkerboard floor tiles give a vintage colonial feel to the balcony

The monochrome bathroom has a quintessential French feel while the balcony checkerboard floor tiles on the balcony are an example of how a classic look can still feel very contemporary.

“If you want to go for a French-style look, don’t forget about details such as the flooring and moldings. They can make such a difference,” says Chen.

The colour scheme also has a distinctly Gallic look. Dove grey walls offer an alternative to all-white while still keeping the apartment light and bright. These are offset by white shelving, doors and skirting, and white trim painted onto the central column and in the den. A gorgeous ocean green wall that stretches from one side of the entrance hall all the way through to the lounge provides a striking contrast to the neutral

The study has a traditional feel with quirky modern features

palette.

“My clients didn’t want all-white rooms, which was great as we didn’t think that would be the best choice either,” says Chen. “We went for neutral shades that were easy to match or colours that made more of a statement. My clients are fond of green so that was the obvious choice.”

Striking in its simplicity is the parquet flooring, which is the same throughout the flat. Arranged in large chevron patterns, it hints at classic Hong Kong style but has a definite modern slant. The study has been decorated in a similar vein. At first glance, its floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, leather club armchairs and dark wood detailing seem very traditional but the quirky lighting and almost industrial desk give the room a simultaneously modern edge.

Lighting has been used creatively in each room. Three on-trend glass pendants in different shapes and colours are a focal point in the minimal kitchen and are complemented by a vintage-style tripod floor lamp, operated by a pulley system. In the study, ceiling lights, desk and floor lamps are variations on the same theme, reminiscent of iconic utilitarian styles such as the Anglepoise.

“Try to use decorative lighting and mix up the shapes, materials and sizes,” says Chen. “Go for wall-mounted and ceiling lights, table lamps and floor lights to define different spaces and make them interesting.”

Add to the mix unusual accessories, such as a coffee table made out of vintage suitcases, and you have a contemporary classic space that almost anyone would love to call home.

YC Chen, founder and creative director of hoo, can be contacted on 2979 0600 or via www.hoo-residence.com. M

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education

open day

French International School

Rebecca Simpson learns more about the school’s new Tseung Kwan O campus, due to open in 2018.

Artist’s impression of the new French International School’s Tseung Kwan O campus.

L

ast year, The Wall Street Journal reported Hong Kong as the hottest spot in the world for French expats. Over the past six years, Hong Kong has seen an influx of French professionals and their families to the city. So it’s no surprise that the French International School (FIS) is expanding. The school is due to throw open the doors of its new Tseung Kwan O campus in 2018, at which point it will accommodate over 3,000 students across multiple locations.

Currently, FIS boasts four campuses in Hong Kong and runs two streams of education, from reception through to high school graduation: the French stream (French curriculum) and the International stream (English and IB curricula). The Blue Pool Road campus in Happy Valley is home to high school students from both the French and International streams. Jardine’s Lookout houses reception to Year Four from both streams; these children move to Chai Wan for Years Five and Six, following which the French stream students return to Jardine’s Lookout for two years. Finally, the school has a temporary

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campus in Hung Hom for French stream primary school students.

A new campus, a new way of learning Once the new state-of-the-art Tseung Kwan O campus opens, French and International stream students will have the chance to learn side by side. Final confirmation of which years groups will be located at the new campus is yet to be confirmed.

The new campus is being pegged as one of the most innovative and green schools in the city. So what makes it so cutting edge? “It is a very clever design by a Danish company that is a leader in this area. Educationally, it’s what we’re calling the villa concept”, says Ian Clayton, Head of International Stream at FIS. The villa concept offers a new way of learning for FIS students. “There will be three classes of the French stream and two classes of the International stream sharing a villa”, explains Clayton. In the middle is the Agora: the shared area. The walls separating each room will be retractable and students will share a large area in the middle of the villa where

they can experience intercultural and bilingual teaching and learning.”

This new way of working is designed to allow fluidity within the teaching staff and offer students more exposure to teachers from the other stream. “There will be times when the French teachers teach the international class and the international teachers teach the French students. This exchange will be for a percentage of the week. The students will also do lots of shared projects in this common area.

The classrooms are big, specifically for that reason – so students can share, so they can interact, so they can mingle”, says Clayton.

This non-traditional approach is the brainchild of the FIS teaching body, driven by the school’s Principal, Christian Soulard. “When we were planning for TKO, the idea evolved.

Our Principal drove the idea. As a school we are focused on our bilingual offering, so this new villa style of teaching is an experience we believe will help our students. Schools are traditionally built in a linear fashion, but we wanted to build our classrooms around this shared nucleus. And that’s where the brilliance

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education

of the designers really came into its own. They helped make our vision a reality.”

A Green Campus To Share With The Community FIS is a green and community conscious school.

Since 2008 the school has been annually awarded as an international “Eco-School” by the Foundation for Environmental Education.

The new TKO campus will see the school deliver a new level of sustainable building design and integration throughout the new campus.

The new campus will feature a botanical garden with native Hong Kong flora for students and the community to share sustainable development projects and activities. This eco garden will be maintained by the student body. The TKO campus will serve the local community, allowing access and shared facilities for the immediate community out of school hours.

An Academic Legacy The FIS has an established history of academic excellence. “Academic results are our strength” boasts Ian Clayton. Not only is the school delivering strong academic results, but it’s also well regarded by universities in both Europe and the US. FIS has a stable relationship with an array of universities and staffs a dedicated team of career guidance experts to help senior students with their journeys to further

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education.

In 2015, FIS students excelled academically in the IB, IGCSE, and the French Baccalaureate.

100% of FIS IB students secured a place at their first or second choice university. 75% of the IGCSE graduates were awarded an A* or A across all subjects. The French Baccalaureate students had a year to remember too as student achieved the best academic results to date for the school.

A Place Where Students Feel Valued Proud of their strong reputation for academic excellence, the school is also keen to emphasise the relationship that each student forges with the school. “Students have great relationships with the teachers – they feel the teachers know them well and they know the teachers well. It’s a mutual understanding.”

He cites modest class sizes as a contributing factor to the way FIS students feel valued, “This is linked to our small class sizes – in the senior school, it’s not unusual for our students to be in a class of only 10 or 15 students.” A reduced student-teacher ratio means FIS students are offered not only academic but also pastoral monitoring.

The FIS sense of community and student sentiment of being recognised is a powerful proposition for parents and students alike.

“Students don’t fall through the cracks here.

As a student, you can’t go unnoticed at FIS. Everyone knows you and you know everyone.”

A Bi-Lingual Education The FIS offers students an opportunity for robust academic achievement supported by a sense of belonging and care from teachers.

When the TKO campus opens in 2018, the students will also benefit from a new way of learning and state-of-the-art facilities.

But what makes the FIS truly unique is the bilingual immersion the students experience.

While English is the common playground language at FIS, students graduating from the school are fluent in both French and English.

Perhaps most importantly though, embracing and understanding respective cultures could be the most valuable life lesson of all. M

School Report

French International School

Established: 1963 Number of students: circa 2,600 Curriculum: French stream: French National Curriculum (French Baccalaureate) International stream - English National Curriculum to IGCSE then IB Fees 2016/2017: $96,589 - $184,038 Address: Blue Pool Road Campus French and International Streams 165 Blue Pool Road, Happy Valley Jardine’s Lookout Campus French and International Streams 34 Price Road, Jardine’s Lookout Hung Hom Campus French Stream 68 Gillies Avenue, Hung Hom Chai Wan Campus French and International Streams 1 Cheung Man Road, Chai Wan Tel: 2577 6217

education

IELTS – the world’s leading English proficiency benchmark

by Andrew Hall, Director, ITS Education Asia Many new players have entered the English proficiency scene in recent years. After something of a struggle, one exam has been left standing - the IELTS. The IELTS exam is recognised as the gold standard for immigration and study in Englishspeaking countries. It is also increasingly used by many multinational corporations as an indicator of a job applicant’s language ability.

The UK government has streamlined its visa requirements by effectively making the IELTS the only qualification that applicants may submit. Almost every UK educational institution admitting adults has an IELTS entry requirement for applicants from countries where English is not a native language.

Success in the IELTS exam (reaching a required “band,” or score) is not out of the reach of most properly-prepared test takers.

For the most part, it takes a familiarity of the exam-taking process and an ability to apply knowledge correctly within the exam format.

First, the standard information: there are two versions of the IELTS exam – the Academic

version and the General Training version. General Training is usually taken by those who are sitting the exam for immigration purposes. The majority of IELTS candidates sit the Academic version.

While the different versions offer different papers at different levels, the speaking and listening test is the same for both Academic and General training candidates.

In addition to Academic and General Training, a brand new version of the exam has just launched – IELTS Life Skills. This exam is to meet the requirements of UK Visas and Immigration for certain visa categories and other immigration purposes. It only assesses candidates’ listening and speaking skills.

It’s important to remember that, for all of the exams, an IELTS score is only valid for two years. After the two year period, the score is said to be stale and candidates must take the exam again to have a valid score.

What can an IELTS exam taker do to get the best score possible? First and foremost, familiarise yourself with the test format. Practice your English, every day. There is, of course,

a variety of freely-available preparation material on the internet (often of poor quality, unfortunately). Or, you can take an exam preparation course.

One option is ITS Education Asia’s IELTS Exam Preparation course, offered fully online and available anywhere in the world. It includes live sessions with a real teacher, teacherguided self-study, exam tips and strategies, and assignments and practice papers marked with full tutor feedback. It’s a cost effective, high-quality option for students around the world looking for an IELTS course. For more information, visit www.itseducation.asia/online/ielts.htm ITS Education Asia provides an education consulting service that works with families and employers to find the right schools for individual children in Hong Kong, from nursery to secondary schools. ITS also offers research, policy and advisory services for corporations. For more details, contact 3188 3940, es@itseducation.asia or visit www.itseducation.asia.

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travel

Pho the good times Callum Wiggins spends a weekend at the luxurious Reverie Saigon in Ho Chi Minh.

I

The custom-made Baldi Monumental Clock.

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’m sitting in the back of a chauffeurdriven black Mercedes Benz, gracefully carving its way through Ho Chi Minh city. Glass bottles of Evian water occupy the cup holders and a television screen in the driver’s headrest plays a slick promotional video of the hotel.

The Reverie Saigon opened to much excitement last year with the promise of being Ho Chi Minh’s most luxurious hotel.

Commanding the top floors of the multi-purpose Times Square Building on newly-pedestrianised Nguyen Hue Boulevard, The Reverie Saigon is positioning itself to luxury-minded travellers in search of something special. It could be said that Ho Chi Minh itself is looking to lure a clientele other than the familiar backpacker as an array of glass skyscrapers take shape across

travel

Ho Chi Minh City’s skyline is increasingly being taken up by new skyscraper developments.

the city.

If first impressions are anything to go by, The Reverie Saigon - over seven years in the making - is worth the wait. Whisked over glimmering marble floors and under giant shimmering chandeliers to the hotel lobby, the ostentatious design is striking while the staff are gracious and welcoming. The hotel lobby alone is a sight to behold - extravagant purple leather sofas with golden wings; plush sinkyour-feet-into carpets and, most impressive of all, a custom-made Baldi Monumental Clock weighing in it at over 1,000 kilograms. It’s a hotel lobby designed unquestionably to grab your attention. It’s bold, over the top and I love it.

This level of opulence extends to the rest of the hotel, described by some as ‘the lovechild of Versace and Liberace’. The owners have

certainly spared no expense and the attention to every bejeweled detail is meticulous.

Hotel Manager, Christina Von Wrede, shows me around the impressive range of rooms and suites in the hotel with enthusiasm.

224 luxury rooms and 62 suites are furnished by distinguished Italian designers Provasi, Visionnaire, Colombostile and Giorgetti. On my final stop on the tour, I take a glimpse around the USD$15,000 per night Presidential Suite - a room that Christina mentions even a few current heads of state have declined to stay in on the grounds of it being too exuberant. Suitably palatial in size, I’m told that the curtains alone take housekeeping an hour to correctly set in place. I leave, trying my best not to touch anything on the way out.

Guests who have booked into a suite can

enjoy exclusive access to The Reverie Lounge - a relaxing space on the 38th and 39th floors.

Greeted by name on arrival, the personalised service at The Reverie kicks up another notch as a dedicated Lounge team looks after your every need. Guests may enjoy an array of freshlyprepared snacks, cocktails and afternoon tea while lounging on squidgy leather sofas. The observation telescopes along the windows are a fun way of seeing the city in closer detail.

Dining and relaxing are of course top of anyone’s agenda on a weekend hotel getaway.

The Spa offers an extensive range of treatments in individual and couple’s treatment rooms.

Guests can choose from massages, facials, body and beauty treatments in the vast twolevel space. Choosing our own blended oil for our aromatherapy massage was a nice touch, as

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travel xx. info

The Reverie Saigon’s lobby.

was the platter of fresh fruit and ginger tea that awaited us post-treatment.

With five in-house restaurants and bars, guests aren’t short of options to wine and dine.

The usual breakfast and dinner buffets are served at Cafe Cardinal which has a decidedly French-style menu with a number of Vietnamese and Asian detours. The Royal Pavilion captures the essence of Cantonese fine dining well, although guests from Hong Kong have likely seen better. When such great food can be had for next to nothing from street vendors and small hole-in-the-walls throughout the city, the hotel‘s restaurants don’t quite hit the spot. As hard as it is to drag ourselves away from inside its luxurious four walls, the best food was had on the streets below.

What to do in Ho Chi Minh The War Remnants Museum is a sobering experience and an important stop on any itinerary of Ho Chi Minh. The museum goes into great detail, explaining the causes and horrifying consequences of the 30-year-long Vietnam war.

Photographs, exhibits and written memoirs pack a powerful punch in teaching future generations about a significant part of Vietnam’s past.

The Cu Chi Tunnels are a unique - if claustrophobic - tourist attraction that allow visitors to experience the conditions faced by soldiers who used the extensive tunnel network to move around undetected. A couple of hours by bus outside the main city, the site comprises over 100km of tunnels with a small section - widened and supported with concrete - open to visitors.

With its wide boulevards and grand French colonial architecture, essential stops around the city include a visit to Reunification Palace, infamous for images of the tank crashing through the front gates during the fall of the city in 1975. One of the most interesting sections to visit is the basement war command room. The Central Post Office might be one of the most remarkable places to send a postcard in the world. This late 19th century French-designed building is still a functioning post office and has retained its intricately designed marble floors and telephone boxes. Just next door is the Notre Dame Cathedral constructed in the late 19th century. Featuring two long spires reaching over 60 metres tall, the Cathedral still holds masses every Sunday. M

The Notre Dame Cathedral.

Find out more For more details of The Reverie Saigon, visit www.thereveriesaigon.com The Reunification Palace.

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secrets

The Museum of Medical Sciences building started life as the Bacteriological Institute.

Museum of Medical Sciences

From combating a deadly outbreak of the plague to one of Hong Kong’s most intriguing museums, Callum Wiggins pays a visit.

S

tarting life as the Bacteriological Institute, Hong Kong’s first purposebuilt public health and clinical laboratory, the Museum of Medical Sciences has for the past 20 years functioned as an independent public museum on health and medical sciences.

Built in response to the devastating outbreak of the plague which spread through Hong Kong in 1894, the Institute opened in 1906 to produce vaccines and work on the control of infectious diseases. Just a stone’s throw from Tai Ping Shan, the Institute

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overlooks the area where the first cases of the plague were reported during the 1894 outbreak.

A squalid settlement for Chinese workers during the British colonial era, the cramped and filthy conditions in Tai Ping Shan acted as a perfect breeding ground for the highly infectious disease.

With time, the role of the Institute changed as did its name, becoming the Pathological Institute after World War II. It continued to be used as a laboratory until the 1950s and as a vaccine production centre until the 1970s.

Successfully achieving Monument status by

the government in 1990, the Edwardian-style building was eventually revitalised as the Museum of Medical Sciences in 1996.

Open six days a week, the museum houses 11 exhibition galleries, a library and the Gordon King Lecture Theatre. Some of the best exhibits are to be found in the basement including a Chinese herbalist shop and mortuary with a few particularly gruesome looking medical instruments. Look out for temporary exhibitions held throughout the year while the museum also offers various venues for private events. M

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