FAMILY | FOOD | HOME | HEALTH | LIVING
February 2017
The really useful magazine February 2017
FIVE MINUTES WITH...
PEOPLE
20 Ester van Steekelenburg The founder of Urban Discovery on heritage, neighbourhoods and hiking.
4 Snapped! Sai Kung’s social life. THE PLANNER 8 Happening in February What’s on.
LOCAL
FAMILY 14 Love is in the air The perfect gifts for your loved ones. NEWS 16 What’s going on? In your backyard. GIVEAWAYS 18 Free stuff Fab things to win.
22 Taken for a ride Taxi drivers overcharging customers. ON PATROL 23 Police blotter Sai Kung Police updates. FEATURE 24 Inside Sai Kung Country Park Places, activities, animals and residents. EATING 36 Sai Kung’s cha chaan tengs Sai Kung’s Hong Kong-style cafes. Plus Nibbles.
EDUCATION 38 Kellett School Kate Davies takes a tour. BIG DAY OUT 44 Castle Peak Rory Mackay goes on another adventure. TRAVEL 46 Skiing Chile Hitting the slopes and making snow angels. HEALTH & BEAUTY 50 Eat, pray, yoga Sai Kung’s best yoga studios.
HOROSCOPES 56 You will meet a tall, dark stranger Adam White predicts your future. PETS 58 Ask Dr. Pauline “Why does my dog eat grass?”. Plus Walkies. GARDENING 61 Gardening in Hong Kong What to plant in February. STEPHEN SAYS... 64 Ghost refugees Stephen Vines weighs in.
ZIM CITY 54 Paul Zimmerman on... Road railings.
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“EVERYTHING YOU’VE EVER WANTED IS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF FEAR” - GEORGE ADDAIR
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contributors
mith Jenny & Isabella S
Anna Schulteisz
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Want to write for Sai Kung Magazine? Contact editorial@fastmedia.com.hk
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people Snaps from Sai Kung
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say cheese Snaps from Sai Kung
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people
Photos by Peggy, www.run-pic.com
The Clearwater Bay Chase 2017
Share your event photos with us at editorial@fastmedia.com.hk. Get snapping!
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planner
FEB 18
MSIG Sai Kung 50
There are 12km, 21km and 50km ultra sky marathon trail and hike options at this annual event. The gruelling race starts from Pak Tam Chung Picnic Garden and trails to Lok Wu Trail and back to Pak Tam Chung, Sai Kung. Entry fee varies. Visit www.actionasiaevents.com for more information.
FEB 3 Kidz Night Out Held from 5.30-8.30pm, Kidz Night Out aims to provide an educational experience for children, where they can learn, build and play with LEGO. Pizza and drinks are included. $300 per child or $250 for current students. Book your spot by calling 2791 0007. For more information visit bricks4kidz.com.hk/saikung
FEB 3-5 Legends in Concert The live celebrity tribute show features an allstar cast of Elvis Presley, Adele, David Bowie and Madonna direct from Las Vegas to The Parisian, Macau. Running for 33 years, Legends in Concert is Las Vegas’ longest-running live entertainment show. Tickets $180-$480 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
FEB 5 & 18 Sai Kung Islands Cruise Explore the great outdoors in Sai Kung’s Geopark - known for its hexagonal rock formations, sea arches and caves - the cruise
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includes Yim Tin Tsai, Jin Island, Sharp Island and Kiu Tau. Suitable for children of all ages. $220 for adults, $180 for children. For more information, visit www.adventuretours.hk
UNTIL FEB 12 AIA Christmas Carnival Roll up, roll up! The AIA Great European Carnival returns to Central Harbourfront. Attracting more than one million visitors last year, the carnival will once again play host to fairground rides, games, dance shows, pantomimes and magicians. More than one million cuddly toys are there to be won! Tickets start at $90 for children and $125 for adults. More information at www.tgec.asia
FEB 12 Standard Chartered Marathon Hong Kong’s annual marathon is back with full, half and 10km marathons, plus 3km and 10km wheelchair races. Starts on Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. The public ballot is closed but charity entry is open until Dec 7. www.hkmarathon.com
Longines Masters Hong Kong Held over three days, witness world-class show jumping and mingle at social events. The littlies don’t miss out either with a kid’s corner packed with educational and fun activities to inspire and grow their love of equestrian. Times vary each day. AsiaWorld-Expo. Tickets from www.cityline.com
FEB 10-12
happening in February Barefoot Walk for Children A 4km barefoot walk around the golf course of The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club. Individual, family and group formats available with workshops and activities. Funds go to World Vision’s nutrition and hygiene projects in South Sudan. 10am, The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club, www.worldvision.org.hk/cwalk
FEB 4
FEB 17-25 India by the Bay A week-long cultural programme of events including music, theatre and guest speakers celebrates India’s cultural diversity. Visit asiasociety.org/hong-kong for full programme information.
FEB 19 Sai Kung Sunday Market Browse through over 60 stalls of food vendors and artisans at this well-established indoor market. Children can enjoy face painting and cuddles with adorable puppies, while you eat, browse and shop. 11am-5pm, Hong Kong Academy, 33 Wai Man Road, Sai Kung.
UNTIL FEB 12 KidsFest 2017
FEB 13, 20, 27 Mindfulness for Children session
The biggest children’s theatre festival returns for another year of fun-filled performances at the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts. One production not to miss is Gruffalos, Ladybirds and other Beasts which will feature Julia Donaldson herself live on stage. Tickets available at www.hkticketing.com or call 3128 8288.
Spread over seven courses from February to March, the sessions combine several tools and exercises to develop awareness, concentration, focus, problem solving skills and emotional understanding. Sessions are separated to 5-7 year old and 8-11 year old groups. $2,700 per child. 1/F, 28 Man Nin Street. There are sessions available in Hang Hau. For more information, email innerrainbowmindfulness@gmail.com
FEB 14 Valentine’s Day Time to indulge on some chocolate!
FEB 19 The Hills x SPCA Dogathon 2017 Hong Kong Disneyland is set to throw the city’s largest dog party of the year. Doggie games and treats await with onstage performances and a goodie bag for every pooch. Tickets from $589 for two adults and one dog. Email dogathon@spca.org.hk or call 2232 5579 for details.
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planner FEB 19 Central & Western Pet Carnival Hong Kong Dog Rescue partners with the Central & Western District Office to organize a pet- and family-friendly carnival at the Chung Kong Road Dog Park in Sheung Wan (behind the Central Police District Headquarters). Enjoy fun games for children and dogs, prizes, educational talks on responsible dog ownership and entertainment. Free admission. 11am-5pm.
FEB 23 Eddie Izzard Live Comedy genius Eddie Izzard brings his mammoth ‘Force Majeure’ tour to Hong Kong as part of more than 30 stops around the world. Academy Community Hall, Hong Kong Baptist University. Tickets $488-$988 from www.hkticketing.com or call 3128 8288.
FEB 24-MAR 4 Hansel & Gretel
friendly, starts at 4pm. Details at sites.google.com/site/saikungsaturdayh3
Photo by Amanda Searle
A living diorama of spectacle, song and puppets, inspired by the classic fairytale opera by Engelbert Humperdinck. The HKU Black Box, Run Run Shaw Tower, Centennial Campus, The University of Hong Kong. Tickets from $150 from www.ticketflap.com
FEB 25 Sai Kung Saturday Hash House Harriers Join the monthly hare around the Sai Kung countryside. Child and dog-
Hong Kong Arts Festival
FEB -Mar 16 18
Photo by Mark Douet
The 45th Hong Kong Arts Festival presents over 1,600 of the world’s top artists and stars of tomorrow in 149 performances. Audiences are treated to a wide ranging programme including theatre, music, chamber opera and contemporary dance. Visit www.hk.artsfestival.org for more information or visit www.urbtix.hk to buy tickets.
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FEB 25-26 Dragonland Music Festival Hong Kong’s first outdoor concert combining pop and electronic dance music with some of the world’s chart-topping artists like Black Eyed Peas, Zedd, Iggy Azalea and Redfoo. Hong Kong favourite, Leon Lai will be holding a special concert during the festival. Central Harbourfront. Tickets from www.hotdogtix.com
FEB 25 Mills International School Interview Day Tour the school campus, get to know the school’s management team and learn about their bilingual curriculum. The school will also hold interviews on the day and is now accepting applications for 2017/18. 2.30-5.00pm. Register online now at www.millsinternational.edu.hk or call 2717 6336.
happening in February FEB 25 Closing Ceremony Jazz Concert The Sai Kung District Council is putting on a showstopper to end the season. The concert will consist of jazz music that hopes to transcend cultural and traditional boundaries and be enjoyed by locals and expats alike. 7-10pm, Tin Hau Temple Plaza, Sai Kung. For more information, visit www.districtcouncils.gov.hk
Run For Survival Take on the role of threatened marine animals and avoid myriad obstacles on your path to survival. The event incorporates a 3km family fun run and a 10km timed challenge at Hong Kong Science Park. Individual registration starts from $350 ($250 for under 12s) and $800 for a family of up to four people. For more information, visit www.opcf.org.hk
FEB 26
FEB 25 An Evening with Tom Jones Live With a career spanning over 50 years, catch Welsh singer, Tom Jones live in Hong Kong. He returns with a concert that will take you through various musical eras and genres. 8pm, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Tickets start from $688, www.hkticketing.com
FEB 26 Hike for Hospice Hike for Hospice raises much-needed funds for the Society for the Promotion of Hospice Care (SPHC). Now in its 25th year, the 2017 route will see hikers walk through Tai Lam Country Park. For registration and fundraising information, visit hike.hospicecare.org.hk
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planner
BOOK NOW MAR 16-19 Taste of Hong Kong
MAR 20-25 Art Central
A food lover’s paradise. Sample signature dishes from some of Hong Kong’s top restaurants and artisan producers at the festival. Central Harbourfront. For more information, visit hongkong.tastefestivals.com
Art Central returns to Central Harbourfront for its third edition, featuring over 100 leading international galleries. Large-scale installations, performances, talks and panel discussions await Hong Kong’s growing art
community. Tickets start from $230 from www.ticketflap.com
APR 7-9 Rugby 7s Three days of beer, singing, dodgy dancing, fancy dress and not to forget the worldclass rugby. Tickets are on sale for the city’s biggest sporting event, starting at $350-750 each and can be purchased at www.viagogo.com. Hong Kong Stadium, So Kon Po, hksevens.com
APR 12-16 2017 UCI Track Cycling World Championships The Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) Track Cycling World Championships will be held in Hong Kong this year at the Tseung Kwan O Velodrome. 105-107 Ho Pong Road, Tseung Kwan O, www.trackworldcup.hk
Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk.
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planner
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family
SQ31 ALUMINUM Watch 1,950 from squarestreet, $ www.squarestreet.se 'With Love' Gift Box 288 from Raiz The Bar, $ www.raizthebar.com
Will you be my valentine? Gifts for your loved ones.
Ambiente Rose Fragrant Candle $350 from Maven, www.mavenhk.com
Flex 2 $868 from fitbit, www.fitbit.com
Variety of Valentine’s Day cards 25 each from The Lion Rock Press, $ www.thelionrockpress.com
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xoxo xxx Patterned socks Starts from $110 each from Happy Socks, www.happysocks.com
ETEAQ tablet holder $690 from TREE, 16 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 2802, tree.com.hk
Mahjong pocket square 295 from G.O.D, $ G/F, 2 Yi Chun Street, Sai Kung, 2791 7122, www.god.com.hk
Personalised silver bookmark 345.45 each by Highland Angel, $ available at www.giftslessordinary.com
Red Bird Long leather wallet 620 from G.O.D, $ www.god.com.hk Wedding memories: Forever & Always notebook 220 from kikki-K, $ www.kikki-k.com
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news
The dog days are over
Sai Kung Academy of Jazz opens Get your jazz hands ready! Offering children and adult ballet, jazz, hip hop, cheerleading classes, Sai Kung Academy of Jazz has opened its third and newest studio in Sai Kung. Classes run throughout the week except Sunday at their Sai Kung studio with regular classes at Hong Kong Academy, Nord Anglia International School and American International School. Adult classes start at $2,000 (for 10 weeks) and children’s classes start from $2,400. Private lessons available. 2/F, 16 Yi Chun Street, Sai Kung, www.academyofjazz.com, academyofjazzhk@gmail.com, 3956 9172.
Sahay has raised over $78,000 for SKSF.
In just over a month, 14-year-old Ansh Sahay has raised over $78,000 for Sai Kung Stray Friends (SKSF). Due to financial instability, SKSF was facing a difficult decision: whether it was viable to stay open or not. Sahay took it in his own stride to raise money for the foundation, “I started going to Sai Kung Stray Friends nearly a year ago under my school’s (Kellett School) Learning Service Program,” says Sahay. The foundation needs $150,000 a month to operate and if they can’t keep it up, they could face eviction and dogs would be transported to the Animal Management Centre. Sahay’s fundraising plan started with bake sales and raffles but the problem at SKSF needed a bigger solution. The caretakers at SKSF are mostly volunteers, devoting their time and effort for over a decade, “To imagine all their hard work being discredited was unacceptable. There is something meaningful for everyone to learn
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and take away from this foundation and the people behind it. Just the thought of losing 105 dogs whom these people had cared for for so long was unbearable, especially since I’d been walking a handful of them myself.” Sahay has his sights set on raising an ambitious seven-digit amount but the aim is to raise as much as possible. “If we succeed we will save 100 dogs, save numerous jobs and save the selfless Sai Kung Stray Friends foundation.” All proceeds will go to SKSF to employ at least two full time staff members, repair and put into function their pool and ideally expand. “It will certainly help spread awareness, if not enough money, and hopefully attract a few long-term followers or donors.” For more information or to make donation, visit www.fringebacker.com/projects/savesai-kung-stray-friends
Watercolour workshops H Studio is holding a two-part workshop series with Sai Kung-based artist, Sarah Bent. The first course is a watercolour workshop on drawing bowls on February 9. The second workshop, to be held on February 13 and 14, is an introductory course on watercolour and involves working on a finished still life piece on day two. $900 for the one day workshop, $1,800 for the two day course. Cost includes easels, boards, clips, lesson notes and morning tea. A materials list will be provided. To register, email helenbronteboyd@hotmail.com
in your backyard
Save Hoi Ha’s corals Recent results of a research study conducted by Li Po Chun United World College of Hong Kong (LPCUWC) together with the World Wildlife Foundation (WWF) shows the continued degradation of the coral communities in Hoi Ha Wan. The team, Coral Monitors, consisting of students and teachers, conducts fortnightly analysis of the coral with the aim to increase interest in and awareness of marine ecosystems, their values and threats. “Seeing what’s happening in the park to the coral communities and the life which depends on them is heartbreaking. The damage here (in Hoi Ha) and around the world will negatively impact humans, billions of whom are dependent on the world’s oceans for sustenance and need them as part of our life support system,” says co-leader Linda Olson. The most recent findings hypothesise that the immediate causes of damage include extended algal bloom, population explosion of diadema urchins and drupella snails, both of which graze on the coral. The degradation of the coral may be attributed to overfishing,
left: healthy coral, right: diseased coral.
construction and nitrogen run-off. “We have been alarmed at the deterioration observed, with decrease in coral coverage at all sites and complete devastation in some, with concurrent outbreaks of diadema and drupella,” reports Dr. Jon Chui from LPCUWC. The team hopes to alert the Hong Kong public and government on the extensive damage happening beneath the surface of the sea; encouraging every one to take individual and collaborative action. For more information about the study or to help the team, contact Jon Chui (jon@lpcuwc.edu.hk) or Linda Olson (linda@lpcuwc.edu.hk). Coral Monitors from LPCUWC.
Happy birthday, Leapfrog Kindergarten!
Leapfrog Kindergarten is celebrating their 25th anniversary this month. The kindergarten was formed by six parents in 1992 and has flourished over the years. “Leapfrog Kindergarten has grown in strength and size over the past quarter of a century. It has been a long and sometimes hard struggle but today sees Leapfrog as a fully registered kindergarten,” says School Manager Rachel Johnson, “we always pride ourselves on
our community spirit and will treat everyone as one of the family”. Held inside Sai Kung Country Park, Leapfrog Kindergarten is a nonprofit organisation offering bilingual classes and playgroups for children from birth to 5 years-old. To celebrate their milestone, the kindergarten will hold an event in October at the Victoria Recreation Club - details to come. For more information call 2791 1540 or visit www.leapfrogkindergarten.org
Sports centres for Tseung Kwan O Plans and construction for two sports centres in Tseung Kwan O will see the district welcome a water sports centre and the first ever venue dedicated to Hong Kong soccer with the latter being completed by next July. With an estimated cost of HK$250 million, the water sports centre will occupy a 1.4-hectare site on the Tseung Kwan O south waterfront promenade. It will offer various facilities for water-based sports including rowing, canoeing, sailing, water skiing, dragon boating. Although the water sports centre is still awaiting approval and funding process, with council vice-chairman and chairman of the rowing association, Mike Tanner, hoping that construction will start by the end of next year. To promote the development of soccer in Hong Kong, a 21-hectare training venue for soccer will house six standard-size pitches (three artificial and three natural) with the three grass pitches to be used by junior and senior Hong Kong representative teams while two of the artificial pitches will be open to the public. Other facilities include a futsal pitch, two mini five-a-side grounds, gymnasium and other facilities. If all goes to plan, the training centre is expected to be ready for the football season starting from September.
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giveaways
win at www.saikung.com
A.O.C.
Faust International
Founded by the team behind Le Bistro Winebeast, A.O.C is named after Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, a quality marker for French cuisine worldwide. A charming restaurant just a stone’s throw away from Queen’s Road East, A.O.C serves casual French cuisine and wonderful desserts. They also have an extensive wine list containing many varieties by the glass at retail prices. One lucky reader will win a four-course dinner for two.
The tale of Pinocchio comes to life on February 15 to 17 at Youth Square thanks to Faust International Youth Theatre. Watch the wooden puppet meet a myriad of colorful characters such as Geppetto the kind puppet maker, the Blue Fairy, and more. We’re giving away one family pack of two adult tickets and two children’s tickets to the opening show on February 15. Deadline: February 8
Deadline: February 20
Biobeauty Spa
Cambridge Weight Plan
Treat yourself with a 90-minute facial at Bio Beauty Spa. Valued at $2,500, the procedure uses a FOTONA laser machine to rejuvenate the skin, remove dark spots, reduce pigmentation, improve skin tone and minimize enlarged pores. Included in the laser treatment is a full facial (cleansing, exfoliation, blackhead removal, and mask). One lucky reader gets to enjoy this facial.
Developed by Cambridge University doctors in the US, Cambridge Weight Plan helps people lose weight in a safe and convenient way. Now in thirty countries around the world, Cambridge Weight Plan Hong Kong is run by accredited counsellor
Sarah Armstrong. One reader will win a starter pack of Cambridge products along with a free nutrition consultation, worth $1190. Deadline: February 21
Deadline: February 23
Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: saikung.com/subscribe
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five minutes with
Publisher
Tom Hilditch tom@fastmedia.com.hk
Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Shreena Patel shreena@fastmedia.com.hk Editor Annie Wong annie@fastmedia.com.hk Contributing Editor Callum Wiggins callum@fastmedia.com.hk Carolynne Dear carolynne@fastmedia.com.hk Senior Staff Writer Eric Ho eric@fastmedia.com.hk
Design
Design Manager Cindy Suen cindy@fastmedia.com.hk Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@fastmedia.com.hk
Thanks to
Adam White Adele Brunner Alejandra Gyngell Chichuen Wong Christy Ma Daniel Tsang Dr. Pauline Taylor Isabella Smith Jenny Smith Kate Davies Max Yip Paul Zimmerman Rory Mackay Stephen Vines Vicki Lee William Sargent
Published by
Fast Media Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Photo by Sophie Rouillon Photography
Ester van Steekelenburg
The founder of Urban Discovery talks to Annie Wong about her mission to save the old neighbourhoods of Hong Kong. Urban planning is about understanding the city, its history, the processes and the legal and economic reasons why they are the way they are. From a young age, I’ve always drawn maps and made treasure hunts. I’ve always been fascinated with why places look the way they look and how space is organised. I find older buildings and neighbourhoods fascinating. Like the Tin Hau Temple, the bell tower and fish market in Sai Kung. They possess intangible heritage. I launched Urban Discovery in 2012 to dedicate myself to work that has to do with old buildings and neighbourhoods. For me, it’s one big fun hobby, more than it being an academic pursuit. A part of it involves consultancy work outside of Hong Kong which is intellectually stimulating but I use the other time to develop awareness on what I like to do which is equally as important. iDiscover is just one month old. It is an app with maps of different neighbourhoods in Hong Kong.
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It aims to highlight the local heritage and open people’s eyes.
It’s so surreal, like you’re at the end of the world.
I moved to Clearwater Bay in 2008 after my friends moved here and said to me, ‘don’t bother with the Island anymore, just come to Clearwater Bay’. I did it and never looked back. I lived on Lamma Island when I moved to Hong Kong from Holland in 1997, just a month before the handover.
Sai Kung Square is the ideal village square. It’s used by ladies playing games, children running around playing and surrounded by restaurants. Coming from a small village in Holland, it’s a nice, comfortable community. The air, the space and the greenery - it’s what I like about Sai Kung.
I love being in vibrancy, but I like to live outside of it. It’s all about balance. It’s not necessarily about the highest, best, coolest or the newest thing in Sai Kung, which you get a lot of in the rest of Hong Kong. I can get in touch with nature and the culture here. It’s when you find that balance that it becomes a great place to live.
One of my favourite places is Sai Kung Old Town; the tin shop, anchor shop and the stall selling hakka snacks on See Cheung Street. I want to give recognition to people who care and make a difference. It’s important to highlight people who open up shops and companies because they want to.
Hiking is the kind of exercise I can still squeeze in so I go for night hikes. My favourite route is to start from the Clearwater Bay horse stables and up to the Tai Hang Tun. We start at 8pm and we can see the fishing boats come in. With their big lights, you can’t see anything but the view of the South China Sea.
Not everything has to stay the way it is but I hope to bring traffic to someone like the tin man so the next generation can reinvent the old trade and keep the spirit alive. I want to save old buildings and neighbourhoods. It’s become my mission in life.
Teachers — a student’s best resource. At HKA, teachers are learners, too. We are passionate about professional development because we know supporting the growth of teachers enhances the rigorous international education that we provide for our students. Research confirms what we all know intuitively: good teaching is what makes for a successful school. And the best teachers are the ones who never stop learning themselves. At HKA we make professional development for faculty a top priority, and our commitment to nurturing teachers is one of the many reasons that HKA is a dynamic and special place. Come watch our teachers in action! Sincerely, Jennifer Swinehart Director of Research and Development
HKA is an IB World School offering a rigorous education for children ages 3 to 18. Come visit us in Sai Kung to learn more about our dynamic learning community. For more information or to schedule a tour, please contact our admissions team at admissions@hkacademy.edu.hk. learning, growing, understanding
www.hkacademy.edu.hk
Find us on the web.
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local
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www.saikung.com ads@fastmedia.com.hk @saikungmag facebook.com/SaiKungMagazine GIVE US A CALL! Admin: 3568 3722 Editorial: 2776 2773 Advertising: 2776 2772, 3563 9755 Sai Kung and Clearwater Bay Magazine is published by Fast Media Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Fast Media Ltd cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or publishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any way, part or format without written permission from the publisher.
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Taken for a ride
Police have cracked down on offending taxi drivers after reports of overcharging customers surfaces, Eric Ho reports.
R
eports of taxi drivers overcharging customers, among other issues, have been creeping up all over Hong Kong - many of which are occurring down by the East Dam of High Island Reservoir. Anyone who’s visited the area will have experienced just how problematic the transport situation can be. As the East Dam is located past the Pak Tum Chung barrier, no private vehicle without a permit is allowed entry. Permits are typically only given out to residents who live beyond the barrier or for official duty purposes. In addition, despite the East Dam becoming a popular tourist destination, there are still no public transport options that serve the area. Visitors are faced with three choices when leaving: either walk 11km back to Pak Tam Chung to hop on a bus, hike 6.5km up to the Sai Wan Pavilion and take the village bus (which stops running at 6.30pm), or to try hail a taxi. Taxis are the obvious choice for many, but unfortunately available taxis are seldom seen in the area as
they usually end up at the remote location if they had to drive a customer in from the city.
Anyone who’s visited the area will have experiened just how problematic the transport situation can be.
What this all results in is the demand for a taxi far exceeding the supply. Some opportunist taxi drivers have decided to capitalise on the situation and charge a higher fee than what the meter might show or to not run the meter at all and charge based on a set price. According to Hong Kong laws, taxis are forbidden from overcharging customers and if
found guilty could result in fines up to $10,000 and six months in prison. In a bid to deter offending taxi drivers, in November 2016, police officers mounted an undercover operation and boarded two taxis at the East Dam in the late afternoon. Upon arrival in Sai Kung town, the taxi driver demanded they pay $425 where the journey would normally cost around $100. Subsequently both male taxi drivers, aged 49 and 50, were immediately arrested and eventually fined $5,000 and $4,000. “There are people who do not believe taxis overcharging is a problem. Others are unaware that it is even an illegal offence,” says Max Yip, Assistant Divisional Commander of the Sai Kung Division. The Sai Kung police station received only nine complaints of taxis overcharging throughout 2016, but it must be noted that some complaints may have been reported to other traffic units. “Anyone who believes they are being overcharged should note
driving me mad down the drivers details, registration number and report the case to the police.” warns Yip. The police have begun setting up road stops just after the Pak Tam Chung barrier, stopping taxis to check if they are following the meter. During peak times, police are also stationed at the East Dam to act as a deterrent. “We have seen a decline in overcharging offences but it is also true that there are now fewer taxis coming in.” Yip reports. Besides overcharging customers, taxis have also come under fire for taking longer routes, selecting their customers and dropping customers off at the incorrect destination and still charging for the original fee. On November 25, Hoi Ha resident, Nicola Newbery’s son, experienced all these problems when coming in from the airport, after agreeing to drive into Hoi Ha, “the red taxi driver was offloading him in an unfamiliar back alley in Tsim Sha Tsui at 11pm, with the taxi driver’s excuse that his brakes weren’t good enough to drive to Hoi Ha. The taxi driver insisted my son pay him $300 and made him get into another red taxi which drove him to Sai Kung, with the driver then saying that red taxis are not allowed to drive to Hoi Ha. He then got out and took a third taxi, a green one to Hoi Ha. Usually it would take 55 minutes and about $360, my son paid $600 and it took over two hours.” Newbery recalls. Sai Kung residents are calling
Taxi travelling from East Dam in High Island Reservoir.
for the introduction of public transport to finally break the monopoly of taxis hold on to the location. “Daytrippers wouldn’t need to take a taxi to the East Dam and be ripped off by unscrupulous taxi drivers if shuttle buses were laid on for tourists,” says Newbery, “FOHH envisage a fleet of electric shuttle buses operating from the Pak Tam Chung car park, which already has a bus terminus, so public buses would link in with the shuttle buses which
could take visitors not only to the High Island Reservoir but also to Hoi Ha Marine Park.” Taxi drivers in Sai Kung refused to comment on the issues. Are undercover police operations enough to deter taxi drivers from offending or does it call for extra measures? Have an opinion? Email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk
Police blotter Senior Inspector Max Yip reports on the recent cases in Sai Kung.
· A 78-year-old man went missing after popping
out to the shops. He told his 60-year-old wife to wait at the restaurant they were dining at. His wife waited for him but he didn’t return. The police asked his wife for information on his whereabouts in which she told officers that he used to work as a boat captain down by Heung Chung. After three hours of searching the area, the police finally located the man. The man thought he still lived in Heung Chung and operated a boat. He suffers from dementia.
· A British female received a fraudulent call from a native English speaker who claimed he was a detective from Scotland Yard. The fraudster told the victim that she was involved in a fraud case before transferring the line to an accomplice who claimed he was from HSBC. The victim was told that she would need to hand over $70,000 to another individual waiting in Central in order take part in a decoy operation to clear the fraud accusation.
The victim made her way into Central and handed over the money to a South Asian man. She later relayed the incident to her husband who urged her to report the case to the police. The case is still undergoing investigation, no one has been arrested.
· A 17-year-old male returned to his family home
in Tan Cheung to find a burglar attempting to break into their safe. The burglar was caught red handed and immediately fled the house but was pursued by the 17-year-old male. Several members of the public jumped in to help and the burglar was successfully captured near the Tin Hau Temple. Police were then called to the scene who arrested the burglar.
· A small scale policing operation was
conducted around the Sai Kung Chinese New Year festivities, including the Chinese New Year flower market held at the basketball courts and
Che Kung’s Birthday at Che Kung Temple in Ho Chung.
· A complaint regarding a wild boar down at
Wong Shek Pier was reported to the police. Upon officers arrival, the boar was nowhere to be seen.
· A The police will be launching operation
MOVESKY. Its ultimate goal is to change the behaviours of road users causing traffic flow. Examples include: vehicles parked near junctions which obstruct the views of road users, and double parking which obstruct traffic flow.
For more information, contact Sai Kung Police Station, 1 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung, 3661 1630.
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Inside Sai Kung Country Park
What to do, see and explore. By Annie Wong and Eric Ho.
Known for its spectacular hiking routes and scenic views and spreading over 7,500 hectares, Sai Kung Country Park is an area full of history with several hidden gems to explore. Split into two sections; the west country park extends over 3,000 hectares while the east country park covers 4,500 hectares. We look at the key places to visit, activities to try out, its array of wildlife and speak with residents living in the country parks. Let the journey begin...
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photo by Chichuen Wong
the great outdoors
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Sai Kung West Country Park Lai Chi Chong used for farming purposes are now left for camping enthusiasts and roaming cows. A main site of interest to visit in Lai Chi Chong are the volcanic rocks, which can be found by following a path towards the water, past the pier and until you reach a wooden sign marked with the village name. The site constitutes as one of Hong Kong’s most important places for geological study on rock formation; the patterns were formed from a volcano that erupted over 140 million years ago, dating back to the Jurassic Period. Designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest since 1985, Lai Chi Chong rests on the north shore of the west country park with no roads connecting to the village from the city. The options in and out of Lai Chi Chong is either by foot or via an hour ferry ride from Wong Shek Pier. Directly translating to ‘lychee village’, past villagers were known to cultivate and sell lychees in the area. Plots of land that were once
How to get to Lai Chi Chong - Take No.7 Minibus from Sai Kung Town, alight at Pak Sha O followed by a one hour walk, Costs $12.1. - Take a ferry from Wong Shek Pier, costs $18.
Wong Chuk Yeung
With steady streams and open ponds, Yung Shue O is a peaceful village located in the inner area of Three Fathoms Cove in Sai Kung West Country Park. With plenty of greenery around the area, Yung Shue O has become a hotspot for butterfly and bird watching. A part of the village has old buildings and abandoned fields but there are also areas that are home to threestorey houses with well-constructed roads for the residents that still live there. Yung Shue O makes a stunning day trip for those living outside of the area. Follow an easy 45-minute walk along the edges of Tolo Harbour from Yung Shue O village to Sham Chung or the more adventurous hikers can attempt the dizzying steps of Jacob’s Ladder, one of Hong Kong’s most challenging hikes.
photo by 圍棋一級
Yung Shue O
How to get to Yung Shue O - T ake a taxi from Sai Kung Town, costs around $80.
Abandoned village Wong Chuk Yeung Travel out just above Sai Kung West Country Park to Wong Chuk Yeung, an abandoned village at the top of Chuk Yeung Road. The last resident in the Wong Chuk Yeung Hakka village sold their property in 2013, leaving the village abandoned with stone houses deteriorating and rubbish and furniture
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strewn in the houses. The are over 222 species of plants and wildlife dotted in the area. It is now regularly visited by ancestral descendants at times of worship like Qingming Festival. The area is one of the few abandoned villages still accessible by car.
the great outdoors
photo by Nicola Newbery
Hoi Ha
The ‘bay beneath the sea’, Hoi Ha is located in the furthest reaches of Sai Kung Country Park. The village has been a Site of Special Scientific Interest since 1986 and was gazetted as a
Marine Park in 1996 with massive boulders sprinkled along the coastline and hillsides of Hoi Ha Wan. As one of Hong Kong’s most accessible Marine Parks, there is a wealth of corals and creatures including starfish, shellfish, mudskippers and more. There are a few treasures to explore on land like a free guided eco-tour which will allow visitors to learn about Hoi Ha’s biodiversity with the AFCD Warden Post or stop off at one of Hoi Ha’s Antiquities Monuments. How to get to Hoi Ha Wan - T ake the no. 7 green minibus from Sai Kung Pier and alight at Hoi Ha Village. -A return journey by taxi will cost you around $110.
Pak Sha O from the founding Ho family left Hong Kong. Expatriates have since moved in and renovated the traditional Hakka buildings. Pak Sha O has a few points of interest; the village’s rustic watchtower and a Catholic church at the back of the village, which is now administered by the Kowloon East Scouts Group and is occasionally open during weekends.
Pak Sha O is the most preserved village in the country park. It is a close-knit village and home to around 20 residents and Chinese farmers. The village was abandoned when descendants
How to get to Pak Sha O Village - T ake Minibus no.7 from Sai Kung pier to Hoi Ha, get off at Pak Sha O, costs $11 per trip. - T ake a taxi from Sai Kung, takes around 30 minutes.
Tai Mong Tsai is fairly accessible and is well-equipped with facilities for day trippers. With 152 barbecue pits and Tai Mong Tsai campsite nearby, the area is extremely popular for hiking, camping and barbecuing. Tai Mong Tsai also has some history behind it; some parts of the village served as the battlegrounds of the Dongjiang Guerrilla Force during the Japanese occupation. A monument commemorating the freedom fighters who lost their lives during World War II stands near the campsite. Situated along the southern edge of Sai Kung West Country Park, Tai Mong Tsai is surrounded by dense foliage and various wildlife. The village is a peaceful retreat for visitors; blessed with serene surroundings with rolling hills and sweeping landscapes. Despite its remote location, Tai Mong Tsai
How to get to Tai Mong Tsai - T ake No.94 Bus from Sai Kung Town, alight at Tai Mong Tsai Tsuen. Costs $6.80. - T ake a taxi from Sai Kung Town, costs around $60.
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Sai Kung East Country Park Tai Long Wan landscapes and the view presents idyllic coastlines, pristine waters and sandy beaches. Tai Long Wan draws in a large amount of visitors over the weekends; hiking across the hills or entering by boat. Tai Long Wan has been declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
Tai Long Wan is the crown jewel of Sai Kung Country Park. Spreading across three kilometres, Tai Long Wan is made up of four beaches; Sai Wan (West Bay), Ham Tin Wan, Tai Wan (Big Bay) and Tung Wan (East Bay). No public transport will take you to Tai Long Wan, the only way in is a 90-minute hike or by speedboat from Sai Kung Town or Wong Shek Pier. The area is blessed with stunning
How to get to Tai Long Wan -T ake the 94 bus from Sai Kung Town, alight at Pak Tam Au and hike to Ham Tin or Tai Wan Beach. -T ake the village bus 29R which runs from Sai Kung town to Sai wan Pavilion. -T ake a green taxi to Sai Wan Pavilion. Hike 90mins to Ham Tin or Tai Wan Beach. -H ire a speedboat from Sai Kung direct to Tai Long Wan.
photo by FolloMe 隨我行 (follo3me.com)
Pak Lap
Not reachable by public transport, Pak Lap is tucked away in the secluded eastern reaches of Sai Kung Country Park and is home to a
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beautiful long sandy beach. It is a popular spot for junk trippers and water sports enthusiasts, giving visitors superb views and spectacular wildlife. For those wanting to travel further, paddle southeast to explore the dramatic sea arches of Wang Chau and Basalt Island.
How to get to Pak Lap - Take a taxi from Sai Kung Town, costs around $110 and walk down the hill to the beach for approximately 10 minutes. - There is an option to return to Sai Kung by speedboat.
Sheung Luk Stream
the great outdoors
Tap Mun currently stands at just 100 with residents running small stores on the island. Tap Mun remains as an old fishing village and a walk through the area will give you a glimpse of village houses, floating fish farm, a protected old school building and herds of wild cattle. For visitors, make your way to see the balanced rock and Tap Mun Cave. Tap Mun, or Grass Island, lies north of the Sai Kung Peninsula. At its peak, the area used to be home to about 5,000 residents but the number
How to get to Tap Mun -T ake the 94 bus from Sai Kung Town to Wong Shek Pier and catch a ferry to Tap Mun.
photo by Chichuen Wong
High Island Reservoir
Built in 1978, High Island Reservoir is the largest reservoir in the territory, holding 270 million cubic metres of water and rises 64 metres
above sea level. The area is known for the hexagonal rock columns that lies in the East Dam, naturally eroded sea caves and Sheung Yiu Folk Museum. High Island Reservoir is surrounded by sea and hills and was once a booming fishing village, fortunately the area remains untouched and provides a scenic getaway. How to get to High Island Reservoir - Take Bus 94 or Minibus 7, 9 and alight at Pak Tam Chung - Take a taxi into High Island Reservoir
Sheung Luk Stream Combine a visit to Sheung Luk Stream with Tai Long Wan. Sheung Luk Stream stands at an eight meter high cliff with a clean fresh water river pool at the bottom. Thrill seekers flock to Sheung Luk Stream for its large, deep pool, perfect for swimming and diving.
Take the MacLehose Trail to the north end of Sai Wan Beach then follow the pretty stream uphill for 10-minutes to a series of pools. The trek to the stream is well worth it; it takes about 10-minute drive from Sai Kung town and provides one to two hours of entertainment. Warning: not recommended for those afraid of heights
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What the residents say...
Nicola and David Newbery, Hoi Ha
I live in Brookside, a separate part of Ko Tong Village in Sai Kung West Country Park. It is quite a remote village, and partly why we chose it. I have lived in the park for 18 years and share the house with my daughter, son-in-law and two grandchildren. The problem with living in such a remote area is that we are difficult to find as the village is unmarked and can’t be seen from the road. Similar to other villages, there has been much talk about further houses being built and a few years ago, the government asked for all the bridges crossing the stream in the back gardens to be removed and large trees were felled by
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We live in Hoi Ha, on the north coast of the Country Park. We have lived in the same house for 21 years and were lucky enough to be able to buy the house we rented for 7-8 years, just after SARS. Although the transport to and from school was a constant problem - the nearest shop is 17km away - Hoi Ha is a great environment to bring up our two children. The area is stunningly beautiful and being in such close contact with Hong Kong’s natural environment is a real privilege. At the time that we moved in, Hoi Ha was not a Marine Park. It was designated as a Marine Park four months after we moved in. We enjoy exploring the biodiversity. Hoi Ha Marine Park is one of Hong Kong’s most precious environmental assets with 64 species of hard coral and a diverse marine ecosystem. It’s not all about the water - the countryside around Hoi Ha is also truly an outstanding area of natural beauty which needs to be preserved. We both care deeply about the conservation in
potential property developers. When we were looking to move, we needed a large, affordable house with a garden and it’s exactly what we have in Ko Tong. The village is very quiet and peaceful and surrounded by stunning countryside. The area is home to a wonderful selection of wildlife such as wild boar, porcupines, monkeys, snakes and the list goes on. I love gardening, family walks and picnics in the area and we are lucky to be close to the beautiful Hoi Ha Beach. Our village is also close to many hiking trails suitable for even the younger members of our family.
We have been renting the same house in Pak Sha O for over 21 years. We signed the lease before seeing the village in spring of 1995. Initially we were renting it as a weekend house as we lived in Shouson Hill. We have lived in Repulse Bay as well as in Vietnam for a number of years and now we have been living in Pak Sha O full time for almost three years. We love hosting gatherings for our fellow villagers at the ‘crossroads’, where we all gather over the weekend for a glass of wine. The beauty of Pak Sha Wan is that it is completely unspoiled. It’s such a gorgeous place to live but there is a
general and of course, Hoi Ha in particular. Unfortunately the surrounds of Hoi Ha and Hoi Ha Wan are threatened by development which could, under Government plans, see dozens of new houses built under the Small House Policy. If this is the case, the landscape and atmosphere of Hoi Ha and Hoi Ha Marine Park will be destroyed. In the course of our activities to conserve Hoi Ha we have made many friends and a few enemies. We now work closely with academics and environmental advocates within Hong Kong and abroad, many of whom have become close friends. Every six months for the last several years, an estate agent telephones me, asking if we had changed my mind and would sell our house. He knows what the answer will be: We couldn’t possibly leave - where would we go? There is nowhere else like Hoi Ha, we love living here, and expect to be out in the estuary taking photographs of the flora and fauna for the rest of our lives.
Christine Keeling, Ko Tong
threat to our idyllic paradise from developers. The travesty of developers who are abusing the ‘ding’ rights to purchase the original inhabitants ding rights here are sad. There is a lovely 136-year-old Catholic Church, but we’re possibly fighting a losing battle to prevent a Mainland Chinese company from building up to 36 Spanish-style houses here. Pak Sha O has changed very little over the years. Most residents are long term like ourselves, we are semi-retired now and it is such a gorgeous place to live.
xxxx
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Things to do in the park
Camping Sleep under the stars in one of Sai Kung’s 14 designated campsites. For those who are new to camping, Wong Shek campsite is a great introduction into the activity. The site is conveniently located just opposite the Wong Shek bus stop and provides flushing toilets, sinks and drinkable water through tap. If you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong, it’s hard to beat Long
Ke campsite. The secluded beach has no road connections and thus will require a short hike from either Sai Wan Pavilion or East Dam. Long Ke is one of the few places left in Hong Kong where the light pollution is low enough to see the Milky Way. Please note that camping outside of the designated campsites can result in fines and imprisonment.
Boat tours Visiting Sai Kung country park wouldn’t be complete without exploring the area by sea. Boat tours offer the opportunity to get up close to the unique jurassic rock formations found on the outlying islands and along the country park cliffs. There are a number of choices when it comes to boat tour operators, although many
Kayaking Nestled on the southern end of a stunning coastal inlet, Hoi Ha is a perfect spot to kayak. There are a couple of vendors where you can rent a single kayak, life vest and paddle for $100 per day or double kayak for $200 (locker expenses included on weekdays).
With abundant sea life, scattered coral beds and beaches, there is more than enough to fill a day making Hoi Ha inlet a joy to explore. If you’re eager to venture out further, navigate around the headland towards Wong Shek or Tap Mun Island and capture fantastic vistas of Sharp Peak.
Barbecue Make the most of the outdoors. Sai Kung has eight barbecue areas spanning both East and West country parks. Hoi Ha and Tai Mong Tsai are popular spots to set up for a barbecue there’s plenty for everybody.
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both heading back to Sai Kung town. The hike will take roughly three hours to complete. For the avid hikers out there, you may have heard of the aptly named Sharp Peak. Its distinctive conical profile can be seen from many locations throughout Sai Kung Country Park. One possible route is to start from Pak Tam Au and ascend up towards Sharp Peak from Tai Long Au. This will be a difficult hike which can take seven hours to finish. The climb is so strenuous that the AFCD recommends against hiking the trail altogether. Despite the warnings, Sharp Peak continues to attract flocks of experienced hikers thanks to the difficult but rewarding challenge and splendid views.
photo by Kelvintkn
Hiking
There’s simply no better way to explore the country parks than to do it using your own two feet. With its beautiful bays and rugged landscapes, the Sai Kung country parks are brimming with great options when it comes to hiking. Arguably, two of the best hiking routes can be found in the East Country Park: Tai Long Wan and Sharp Peak. Tai Long Wan is a bay located along Section Two of the MacLehose Trail. A 40-minute hike will take you down to the bay. Traverse along the coastline and follow the trail over the headland to Ham Tin before heading back inland to the finishing line in Pak Tam Au. Either board bus 94 ($6.80) or minibus 7 ($12.1),
only provide Cantonese guides. Live Nature, a social enterprise run by the Sai Kung District Community Centre, offer boat tours led by qualified eco-tour guides. Requests can be made for a private group tour with an English-speaking guide. For more information visit www.ecotoursaikung.com
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Wildlife in the park Snake spotting
Snake expert, William Sargent, combs through the snake files and gives instruction on what you should do when faced with the slithering creature. Pictures by William Sargent.
Burmese Python
Bamboo Snake
The Burmese Python is Hong Kong’s largest snake, growing up to 5m long, with many encounters being in the Sai Kung Country Parks. It typically eats birds and small mammals and do not usually prey on humans. However, there have been isolated cases where pythons have bitten passing hikers. The non venomous python is a protected species in Hong Kong and interfering or killing one may result in fines and imprisonment.
Small, thin and venomous, the Bamboo Snake is responsible for over 90% of all snake bites in Hong Kong every year but with no recorded fatalities. The snake is nocturnal and is an ambush hunter, relying on its camouflage to capture its unsuspecting prey.
- Remain calm. - Move away from the snake. - Make careful note of the snake’s appearance, ideally take a picture if you can. - Call for emergency help, or if quicker to do so, go directly to the nearest major hospital. - Remove restrictive jewellery. - Apply a pressure bandage to the affected area.
Common Blind Snake
Chinese Cobra
Common Blind Snake is possibly Hong Kong’s (and the world’s) most abundant snake. The tiny snake looks similar to an earthworm and often the only way to tell the difference is the flickering of its tongue. The snake is often found burrowed underground. If handled or threatened, it can use its tail to cause a harmless prick.
Chinese Cobras are the most common within the highly-toxic category of snakes in Hong Kong. They feed on a large variety of prey including other reptiles, amphibians and mammals. Chinese Cobras are responsible for a few bites in Hong Kong each year, but due to modern medical access, there have been not been any report fatalities in over 20 years.
And other creatures... Rhesus macaques
Small Indian Civet
Rhesus macaques can be found in the Sai Kung Country Parks but are more commonly seen in Kam Shan and Lion Rock country parks. Macaques are greyish- to golden brown, with a red tinge to their hindquarters and pink faces and rumps and a short tail. They often rely on people and the area for food. It is illegal in Hong Kong to feed wild monkeys.
The small Indian civet is not a member of the cat family but of the viverrids. It is common in forested areas in the New Territories. They typically weigh 2kg-4kg and can be up to a metre long, including a long tail. It has a relatively small head and pointed muzzle, with a black and white striped neck, small black spots and six to ten black and white rings on the tail.
East Asian porcupine Found in the countryside areas across the territory, the porcupine can grow up to 83cm long and weigh up to 25kg. The front half of its body is coated in dark-brown spines 3-5cm long, while the rear half has much longer quills that are banded black and white. When threatened, the porcupine rattles the thick quills on its short tail and raises its spines and charges backwards into its attacker. Porcupines can live up to 27 years in the wild.
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What should you do if you’re bitten by a snake?
Wild Boar Known also as the Eurasian wild pig, it is the largest native terrestrial mammal in Hong Kong. Able to grow to a length of two metres, the adult’s body is covered in grey-black hair and the male has long tusks used for fighting. Common in rural areas of Sai Kung, the omnivores have a good sense of smell to sniff out food. They are extremely wary of human contact and may attack if threatened. There have been incidents of wild boars intruding into villages for crops and food, causing damage and disturbing villagers.
How to get involved
the great outdoors
Passionate about preserving the environment? Get in contact with these organisations.
Save Our Country Parks
Friends of Sai Kung
The alliance is dedicated to protecting every country park in Hong Kong. Their aim is to raise public awareness about the importance of maintaining a balance between development and environmental conservation through various activities. countryparks.hk
A group working to safeguard the environment and improve the quality of life of Sai Kung residents in issues relating to country park enclaves, sustainable living and government policies. www.friendsofsaikung.org
Hong Kong Cleanup
Designing Hong Kong
Whether it’s the country parks or the coastal areas, Hong Kong Cleanup is devoted to cleaning up trash across the territory. The organisation aims to empower Hong Kong citizens to become active participants in keeping Hong Kong trash-free. hkcleanup.org
A Hong Kong-wide non-profit organisation which promotes intervention in regards to bad planning at both a territorial or district level. Designing Hong Kong deals with problems relating to heritage, infrastructure, planning issues and village houses. www.designinghongkong.com
Friends of Hoi Ha
The Conservancy Association
From coral degradation to planning issues, Friends of Hoi Ha deals with a spectrum of issues harming the Hoi Ha area. www.friendsofhoiha.com
environmental education. The association tackles issues such as waste reduction and recycling, energy conservation and tree conservation. www.cahk.org.hk
Green Power Green Power is a charitable institution founded by a group of volunteers in 1988. From projects focusing on butterflies to global warming, the group concentrates on local ecological conservation and global environmental education. www.greenpower.org.hk
Working to protect environmental resources in Hong Kong by advocating policies, monitoring government and promoting
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eating
Cha chaan teng guide Chinese cuisine in Sai Kung isn't just about the seafood restaurants, Annie Wong checks out these Hong Kong-style cafes around town.
Bistro Chuen Kee
Wo Kee
Bistro Chuen Kee on Hoi Pong Square sports a modern and brighter decor, with comfortable and spacious seating compared to other cha chaan tengs in the area. Food presentation isn’t Bistro Chuen Kee's forte but don’t let that put you off, the food is full of flavour and portions are reasonably sized. Dishes are great to share with bigger parties at dinner. Starting from $65, choose from szechuan
stir-fried prawns, sweet and sour pork or black pepper pork knuckle. There are plenty of vegetarian-friendly options too. Otherwise try their afternoon tea sets (starts from $32) which features sandwiches or laksa noodles for something more filling.
Ko Kei
Chan Kuen Gei
Hidden away in the old town, Ko Kei has a terrace-style shop front with plenty of tables for an alfresco experience. Sun umbrellas go up when the sun is out in the summer. The interior is small so grab a seat outside. From fried rice and noodles to sandwiches and toasts, Ko Kei serves up an authentic Cantonese fare. You can find all the cha chaan teng classics here like pork chop bun, ham macaroni and french toast.
Chan Kuen Gei is one of the older-style Hong Kong cafes located on Hoi Pong Square. Although the interior is a bit worn down, the food doesn’t disappoint and neither does their service. If you’re after a light meal, opt for a Hong Kong style milk tea and scrambled eggs on toast which is toasted to light golden brown. Try their curry puff served with fries or salad ($29) from their afternoon tea menu.
Shop 9, G/F, Kam Po Court, 2 Sai Kung Hoi Pong Square, Sai Kung, 2792 0878.
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Shop 9, G/F, Kam Po Court, 2 Sai Kung Hoi Pong Square, Sai Kung, 2792 0878.
G/F, 11 Kam Po Court, Hoi Pong Square, Sai Kung, 2792 3018.
A relatively modern cha chaan teng with a few tables outside, Wo Kee has a la carte menu featuring fried rice, black pepper steak pasta, as well as several lunch specials throughout the week. There are usually three choices to choose from and includes a drink. The afternoon tea options are always a treat - choose from French toast or the pork bun with fries or salad which comes with tea or coffee. Alternatively, Wo Kee serves up a no-fuss breakfast, starring a few local classics like oatmeal ($29) and ham or sausage with macaroni in soup ($32). Wo Kee has just opened up a new branch which offers a similar menu. 9-10 Kam Po Court, Hoi Pong Square, Sai Kung, 2792 0636.
hong kong-style Sai Kung Chung Kee Che Chai Noodle Top 5 cha chaan teng foods - Hong Kong-style milk tea. Served either hot or cold. Like it creamier and sweeter? Try it with condensed milk or evaporated milk. - ‘Yuenyeung’, a mix of milk tea and coffee. It’s sweet with a slight bitter aftertaste. - Hong Kong-style french toast. Unlike its western sister counterpart, the Hong Kong version is slathered in butter and doused with syrup after being deep-fried. Try it with peanut butter if you want that extra bit of sweetness.
Known for their ‘che chai noodle’ (food stallstyle noodles), locals and tourists alike flock to this noodle cafe which draws long lines outside the cafe over the weekends. The cafe sprawls across a large area in the back alley on Fuk Man Road. Pick from a variety of toppings like fish ball and beef brisket but if you’re an adventurous eater, try beef tripe and marinated
Nibbles
chicken feet. You can also pick the type of noodle you prefer including flat noodle, rice noodle, vermicelli and e-fu noodle. If you don’t know what to try, they have preselected combinations to make things easier. G/F, Ko Shing Building, 19-21 Fuk Man Road, Sai Kung, 2792 9172.
- Pork chop bun. A slice of tender pork chop wedged between a lightly toasted, crispy white bun, served with lettuce and mayonnaise. - Scrambled egg sandwich. A simple scrambled eggs sandwich. It can be ordered with other fillings like ham, cheese or corned beef.
Padstow opens
Chillers delivers to Sai Kung
Chocolate galore
Named after a fishing port in England, Padstow replaces Hebe One O One in Pak Sha Wan. The restaurant offers mainly seafood dishes like grilled whole Boston lobster and St Mungo battered fish and chips as well as steaks and pastas. There is a comprehensive beverage list so enjoy a cocktail or two on the balcony or rooftop. 112 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, 2335 5515, www.facebook.com/ Padstow.HongKong
Partnering with Cali-mex, Chillers, aim to deliver cold drinks to homes and offices in Sai Kung and Clearwater Bay (and most of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon) in just under 40 minutes. There is a range of beers, ciders, champagne and mixers to choose from. Delivery is available from 10am-10pm, seven days a week. Free delivery, minimum order $120. www.chillers.com.hk
Sai Kung sisters Priscilla Soligo and Rachel Whitfield from Raiz The Bar has released ‘With Love’ Gift Box ($288) for Valentine’s Day. The gift box includes four flavours; classic original, sour cherry chilli, wild blueberry lavender and raspberry rose acai. Chocolate bars are organic-, vegan-, and paleo-friendly. Available from www.raizthebar.com and at selected retailers.
Cakes at Grand Hyatt Sha Tin
Picnic in the park
Cielo’s Valentine’s Day menu
Treat your loved ones to a picnic in the park with Invisible Kitchen’s various Valentine's Day hampers. Choose from Tickled Pink Picnic Hamper ($1,350), Bubbles and Brownies ($725) Red Wine and Brownies ($350) and Prosecco, Macarons, Choc & Love ($318). Delivery charges vary depending on location and size. Available till April 30. Order by calling 2711 5788 or email office@ invisiblekitchen.com
Cielo's Valentine’s Day menu ($1,628 for food only, $2,128 with wine pairing) includes a glass of prosecco, a range of starters, salad and soup and a variety of mains. In addition, Cielo is offering special mains for the couple who dine at the restaurant on the night. Available only on February 14. 47/F, 3 Tong Tak Street, Tseung Kwan O, 3983 0688.
To symbolise new beginnings, pastry chef Kelvin Lai has introduced floral cakes using three types of edible flowers; flavours include rose yoghurt mousse cake, jasmine tea opera cake, roselle mousse cake (all are $290 per pound or $45 per piece). Available at Patisserie throughout February. Lobby level, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin, 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, 3723 1234.
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education
Best of British
Kate Davies visits the Kowloon Bay campus of Hong Kong’s oldest independent British school, Kellett.
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open day
O
n November 5 2016, Hong Kong’s Kellett School broke a Guinness Book of Records title. 1325 students, parents, alumni and friends gathered on the school’s Sky Pitch rooftop dressed in red to form what would be crowned the largest human image of a boat. Reminiscent of a mini Aqua Luna, it was a homage to the city in which the school was established and has since blossomed. The image struck me as particularly fitting for an institution firmly entrenched in and committed to respecting the richness of Hong Kong life, while offering the city’s English-speaking children a highly valued British education from a not-for-profit, independent establishment. Principal Ann McDonald is an expatriate herself. Hailing from Gloucestershire in the U.K., she came to Hong Kong for work in the late seventies and after a stint at home she returned to Hong Kong to take up her role at Kellett in 1996. She has been with the school now for some 20 years, “It’s such a privilege leading this school I tell you. I think it’s a special community. I’m biased of course.”
During that time she has seen some major developments: the refurbishment of the original Pok Fu Lam site, the conception and realization of the now 4-year-old Kowloon Bay campus and the addition of a senior school to Kellett in 2007. For all of these she and the school worked closely with the board, “All the board are parents which is very unusual. For some people, a parent board is quite daunting but for some reason there’s magic dust on the Kellett model.” I meet Principal McDonald in her office in a quiet corner of the school where she explains that the basis of the curriculum here is that a child should be able to enter from or leave to either a British or British international school without stagger. Reception (or pre-primary) begins in the academic year that a child turns 4 while preparatory begins at 5 years old. Both the preparatory and the senior school follow the English National Curriculum. In senior school a child enters in the September of the academic year they turn 11 and graduates after completing A-levels. Currently they offer around 17 A-levels plus a home language program
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education
and an extended essay. There have been just two years to graduate A-levels at Kellett so far, seeing some students go on to places in high ranking universities in Britain and beyond. “In our very first year of graduates, one of our girls got a place at Girton College at Cambridge.” Principal McDonald tells me, clearly beaming
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with pride. This is made even more special she explains because Girton College is synonymous with pioneering women’s education, and sex aside, the symbolism of a graduate from their inaugural graduating year being accepted by a historically progressive educational institute is not lost on her.
Principal McDonald’s heart is undoubtedly entwined with the success of the school and the children of all ages. She tells me that the most exciting thing about working at Kellett is working with kids from 4-years-old, all the way to 18. Teaching is at the heart of good schools she explains to me and teaching styles at the
open day
school are “consistent and consistently high quality”, with a view to sending off graduates with the skills to learn independently. Principal McDonald calls it “scaffolding our students to independence”, and admits that is going to look very different at 7-years-old to 12-years-old to 17. They encourage students to compete
against themselves, “We talk about personal journeys and Kellett is very much based on ‘personal bests’”. Class sizes generally consist of about 23 students but as the kids grow older the numbers change and some A-level classes can be as small as 4 students depending on the subject. Students requiring learning support
are also well taken care of with individualized programs. The campuses are another aspect of the school that Principal McDonald is visibly proud of. The Pok Fu Lam campus was built in the 80’s and sits between Kellett Bay and Mt Kellett has undergone huge refurbishment
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education
and has access to almost all of the facilities that the Kowloon Bay campus does, bar the swimming pool and the Sky Pitch, but uses nearby facilities to supplement these. It houses preparatory students and is “a tardis” I’m told; while it looks tiny on the outside, there’s enormous space inside. The Kowloon Bay campus however is big, outside and in. Unlike its counterpart, it is not surrounded by green but rather sits on an entire block, smack-bang in the bustling commercial district of Kowloon Bay. Principal McDonald tells me they were presented with many traditional ‘L’ shaped models at the design stage but they were finally approached by a local architect who, after first presenting an ‘L’ shape building design, eventually suggested they go with a different approach. “Light, bright and open,” she says were the goals as these features promote quality learning, allow children to feel safe and creates a more spacious feeling environment. Skylights, windows and glass are in
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abundance while the two atriums can be walked around and looked down on by people on higher floors. The classrooms, library, multi-purpose Sky Pitch, theatre, gym and pool are all state-of-the-art and while they can be self-sufficient, there are outside sports facilities nearby if they need. The available facilities are especially important given the emphasis on clubs and extracurricular activities. Principal McDonald tells me there are more than 100 student clubs across an array of sports from rugby to cricket to sailing and horse-riding among others, not to mention music and the arts. She adds that they have a lot of students representing Hong Kong in a lot of sport as well. These extra-curricular activities for her are especially important, “If students are doing heavy academic programs it gives them a release and makes them well rounded people.” This is underlined by telling me that P.E. is mandatory in 6th form, further highlighting the point that a balance between health, academia and creativity is highly valued here. As I leave the Kowloon Bay campus I see the topline of the school’s mission statement emblazoned in large red letters: ‘A love of learning and confidence for life’. It appears to be a parting reminder to all those leaving of what Kellett school represents and what they want you to take
with you when you go. While Principal McDonald tells me that even at 40 years old they are “just a baby” in comparison to some other long standing international schools, they believe they are the oldest independent British school in Hong Kong. “We see ourselves as a stakeholder in Hong Kong. We’ve been through the ups and downs in Hong Kong, lots of them, and we still continue to thrive.”
School Report
Established: 1976 Class size: 23 Curriculum: English National Curriculum to I/GCSEs & A-levels Fees 2016/2017: Prep: $150,000; Senior (Y7-11): $187,000; Sixth Form (Y12-13): $192,500 Non-refundable capital levy: Optional for external students entering sixth form in lieu of debenture cover Address: Pok Fu Lam Preparatory: 2 Wah Lok Path, Wah Fu, Pok Fu Lam; Kowloon Bay Preparatory & Senior: 7 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay Tel: 3120 0700
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big day out
Reaching the summit Rory Mackay conquers the ranges of Hong Kong’s far west.
T
he hills of far western Hong Kong may not be so well known compared to other areas, but Castle Peak (Tsing Shan) and its surrounds are as dramatic as any other Hong Kong landscape and ought to receive more recognition. Conquer this rugged range of hills and one will witness some of the territory’s finest views, gazing down upon Tuen Mun and absorbing the immense sprawl of Shenzhen behind. Meanwhile a gaze around the other side reveals Lantau Island and the expansive waters of the
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Pearl River Delta. Not only is arriving at the mountain top exhilarating but the walking to be had either side of it is most enjoyable. Early afternoons make for an ideal time to set off, ensuring pleasant temperatures and sunset vistas from the summit. The route up is easily accessed from Siu Hong MTR Station. Once at Siu Hong Station, one can walk across to the trailhead or w hat I recommend doing is hopping onto the light rail to shorten this walk. Catch either the 505 or 615 bus to Leung King Station and from here, it is a five-minute walk
through the housing estate to the trailhead. The trailhead is best described as a singletrack concrete road with a grassy paddock on its right hand side at the junction with Leung King Estate. Follow this road and it will quickly climb up through banana palms and tall eucalyptus trees. After a few hairpin bends and 20-30 minutes of walking from Leung King, the road reaches a plateau spanning the hills above Tuen Mun. At this point the vegetation rapidly diminishes to grassland and a few small shrubs, allowing views of the surrounding area. At this juncture there are a few options for route selection and the adventure really begins. One could spend an entire afternoon exploring the myriad of eroded ridgelines, gullies and canyons amongst the hills in and around where the road is. Some of the canyons that are currently forming here are stunning and truly rugged. They are created due to the lack of afforestation that has occurred elsewhere in Hong Kong in the last century, the hillsides have been gouged out revealing the red clay within. As amazing as this landscape is, for the more enthusiastic hikers it’s worth pursuing the summit of Castle Peak. As one traverses the undulating ridgeline towards the mountain in a southerly direction, the views really open up.
the wild west
A view from the summit of Castle Peak.
At first it is more of an overview of your immediate surroundings, but before long you’re the surveyor of all things in western Hong Kong and on clear days, the views of Shenzhen are simply jaw dropping. The sheer size and scale of this city becomes clearly evident from this vantage point, as one can see all the way from Lo Wu in the east to Nanshan in the west. To think that 30 years ago there was next to nothing there defies logic.
Upon reaching the steep sided summit at 583 meters above sea level, the footpath emerges from the radio towers to reveal unrivaled panoramas of Tuen Mun and its surrounds. Pose for dramatic photos above large granite outcrops dating back to the Jurassic Period. Alternatively, take a perch and soak up the relaxing vibes as skies darken with the vibrant lights from the millions below come to life. Only a few mountains in Hong Kong offer a 360-degree panorama of such variety, from the mountains of Lantau and South China Sea around to the mass development of Tuen Mun, Yuen Long and Shenzhen. The return route down is fairly simple. Keep following the hiking trail directly downwards and you’ll be back to civilization in around an
Photo by Exploringlife
The footpath emerges from the radio towers to reveal unrivaled panoramas of Tuen Mun.
Tsing Shan Monastery.
hour. Compared to the route up, the return trail is well-made and maintained but does include a lot of steps. If you have a spare moment, near the bottom of the mountain poke your head into the beautiful Tsing Shan Monastery. One of Hong Kong’s oldest temples, Tsing Shan Monastery serves up a lovely dose of zen to end the hike before returning to the eclectic racket of Tuen Mun. The simplest way back to the MTR is to then walk across a few city blocks to Tuen Mun Station. One can alternatively board the light rail, although it’s a much shorter ride than at the start of the day so I personally wouldn’t bother.
Castle Peak is a classic winter route. Almost anyone can have a go, yet one that keeps even the most seasoned of hikers honest. Although the western New Territories may not be especially well known amongst many hikers, the area has a few nice little surprises for those who venture out. Its enchanted forests below and spectacular vistas above will no doubt leave one wanting to revisit for another go. Rory Mackay runs adventure company Wild Hong Kong. For details, visit www.wildhongkong.com.
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travel
Skiing Chile Alejandra Gyngell and her family flew to Santiago for a snowy adventure.
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baby, it’s cold outside
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travel
I
am Chilean, my husband is Australian, my children - Seb and Xavier - were born in London and we’re currently enjoying life in Hong Kong, which makes us, like most expat families, a bit of a mixed bunch. I try and get back to my homeland whenever I can, and a ski trip last July seemed like a great opportunity, especially as being in the southern hemisphere it meant escaping the steamy Hong Kong summer for a couple of weeks. Skiing in Chile is unique and it’s great to get a different experience from European and Japanese resorts. It’s also the only place I have ever skied where we’re the only native English speakers - almost every other guest was from Argentina or Brazil. The Chilean ski season runs from mid-June and can go until mid-October. Generally, the best time for dry powder is July, August and up until the second week in September. It’s broadly the same season as Australia - but with much less
Xavier (left) and older brother Seb take a break on the mountains
chance of skiing on grass and tree-stumps. Chile is, literally, the exact other side of the world to Hong Kong. There is no quick route, but the best way we’ve found to do it is to stop over in Sydney (a flight of around eight hours), and then take the fifteen hour flight across the Pacific. Both Qantas and Lan Chile fly from Sydney to Santiago, with Lan stopping over in Auckland. I would advise staying for a couple of nights in Santiago. It’s a fantastic city - very modern and one of the most cosmopolitan in Latin America. Once there, the ski-fields are very close to the city at just an hour’s drive up into the Andes from the centre of Santiago. The drive itself can be hair-raising and it’s well worth hiring a professional transfer for ease of mind. We used Ski Total (skitotal.cl) who are one of the best, plus they also offer ski hire. We stayed in Valle Nevado, which is the biggest and best known resort in Chile. It’s part of the Tres Valles (Three Valleys) along
Sunrise over the Andes on day one
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with neighbouring ski resorts La Parva and El Colorado. Within Valle Nevado, there are a number of accommodation options, including three hotels (Hotel Valle, Hotel Puerta del Sol and Hotel Tres Puntas) as well as many serviced apartments.
Watching the sun rise over the Andes on our first morning was absolutely breathtaking.
There are other ski resorts in Chile, including the famous (and expensive) Portillo resort. We opted for Valle Nevado because of its convenience from Santiago, its English speaking instructors and the large ski terrain (it’s the biggest in South America). Our accommodation was a two bedroom serviced apartment, which was a five to seven minute walk to the children’s ski school and slopes, close to the restaurant and, importantly, very near the bar. There is a small food shop as well although it is worth stocking up for the week in Santiago as resort prices can add up. We stayed for seven nights, skiing most days. The weather was amazing, either snowing or bright blue skies. There is not a huge amount of other activities to do in the resort, but the
baby, it’s cold outside combination of jet-lag and the high altitude meant that we were asleep by 9pm most nights anyway. Valle Nevado Ski School provides private and group classes (ski and snowboarding) from beginners to experienced. There are plenty of very good English speaking instructors, including a number of Europeans there on summer holidays. The ski-school is by the restaurants and bar so you can have a drink while watching the kids swoosh past. The snow is outstanding. It is so dry in the Andes that even after a few days of no snow there is powder in the huge back-country and the groomers do a great job on the slopes. Piste grading is the same as the US, with green beginner slopes, red and blue intermediate and black for experts. The resort doesn’t have a huge amount of expert terrain by US or European standards, but it is a perfect resort for beginners and intermediates. It is all above the tree line and there are rarely queues for the lifts. We took snowboards with us, but there are plenty of cheap hire places, either in Santiago (which is cheaper) or on the slopes. Many retailers have outlets in the resort. Highlights of the trip included watching the sun rise across the Andes on the first morning, which was absolutely breathtaking. Banging down an empty slope from nearly 4,000 metres
The brothers try out snowboarding
with the tunes turned up loud will also live in my memory, as will watching the boys master their first jumps on the snowboards. In terms of apres ski, there are a number of food options from a couple of high-end restaurants at the hotel, to take-away and bar food. We ate regularly at La Lenera, which served simple meals and sandwiches in a cozy and lively atmosphere. The mid-station bar, Bajo Zero, was also quite cool - sitting out on the deck enjoying a beer or a pisco sour while enjoying one of the best views in the world was unforgettable.
Xavier ready to hit the slopes
How they did it The family flew Qantas Airways to Santiago, with a stop in Sydney qantas.com Transfer from Santiago to the ski resort was made with Ski Total - skitotal.cl The children skied with Valle Nevado ski school - vallenevado.com/en/ski-school/ They stayed in an apartment serviced by Valle Nevado - vallenevado.com/en/ or reservas@vallenevado.com.
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health & beauty
Eat, pray, yoga
Annie Wong finds the top yoga classes in Sai Kung. Gecko Yoga
Yoga B
The Studio, Sai Kung
Founded by local resident Jenny Smith in 2009, Gecko Yoga offers classes for women, men as well as prenatal yoga classes in Clearwater Bay. Group classes are $150 with private lessons available. Designed to address specific health problems and adapting different yoga poses to targeted areas, one on one yoga therapy sessions ($700 an hour) are offered at Gecko Yoga to help reduce symptoms, restore balance and increase vitality. 6973 1792, www.geckoyoga.com
Yoga instructor Barbarah Dudman will take you out of the studio and into the great outdoors. The classes not only involve an hour of Hatha yoga but will get you onto a boat and hiking through Sai Kung’s beautiful countryside from Wong Shek Pier to Tai Long Wan. There is a less challenging option to Tap Mun (Grass Island) with guided meditation and a vegetarian lunch at the local dai pai dong. Yoga B hikes are $350. Private group bookings for 10 or more people available. 60767134 or email barbaradudman@mac.com
Suitable for people of all ages and levels of fitness, The Studio runs a wide range of fitness classes including zumba, pilates and yoga. Specialising in Hatha yoga, it involves practicing postures and breathing to increase strength, flexibility and relaxation. $160 per class, walk ins are welcome, packages available. The Studio also offers pre and post natal yoga classes twice a week which are designed to help alleviate the discomforts of pregnancy. 1/F, 28 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 9705, www.thestudiosaikung.com
Tina’s Dance Studio There are several professional instructors who run yoga classes at Tina’s Dance Studio all week. Choose from eight yoga classes from instructor Tom and Utpala. Hatha and Vinyasa classes are run with small groups of ten people and suitable for 19 year old and older. Class schedule varies depending on instructor, Tom can be contacted on 9329 7849 and Utpala on 97404516. 2/F, 15 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, tinasdancestudiosaikung@gmail.com
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ommm Julie Dixon Julie Dixon runs yoga classes with a combination of Hatha, Vinyasa and Iyengar styles. Suitable for teens and older, Dixon’s classes take the style of achieving mindfulness and building strength, with the consideration of all levels and experience. Classes are held at Adventist College and Clearwater Bay Club. $150-200 per class, drop ins are welcome. Tailored one on one classes also available. 9285 9199, juliedixon65@hotmail.com
The Yoga House Taught from instructor Emma Linnitt’s home, The Yoga House is a small independent studio based in Po Lo Che. The studio runs Hatha Vinyasa classes with a focus on building strength and increasing flexibility with a less spiritual element. Linnitt offers “tween” classes from 9 years and older, aimed at building confidence, managing stress and improving posture as well as several combined yoga and hike sessions throughout the year. Classes are small groups of 10 people and run throughout the week. $120 per class. 9268 9131, www.theyogahouse.com.hk
Blue Sky Sports Club
Yoga for Life
Blue Sky Sports Club offers this alternative form of yoga suitable for all levels. Practicing yoga postures on a stand up paddleboard, SUP Yoga packs in a core body workout with cardio elements to improve flexibility, balance and breath work. Classes begin with stretching on shore, an introduction to maneuvering the board followed by paddling out to sea to practice yoga positions, and ends with paddling on the water. Classes are $600 per person and includes gear rental. Private classes available. 2791 0806, bluesky-sc.com
Held at Tseung Kwan O Stadium, Yoga for Life offers yoga classes for teenagers and older. There are group classes (4-12 people; starts at $170 per class for a monthly package) as well as private lessons for Hatha, Vinyasa and Iyengar Slant yoga. Certain equipment included, bring your own mat. 2167 7401, www.yogaforlife.com.hk, info@yogaforlife.com.hk
Spirit Yoga Suitable for all ages, Julie More offers small yoga classes with a nurturing, restorative style and an emphasis on breath. Julie’s classes focus on the core and sessions are challenging yet personalised to the particular individual. Julie holds yoga sessions at Hing Keng Shek or alternatively classes can be arranged in the comfort of your own home. Tween classes available. Equipment is provided. $150 per person or $600 for a private lesson. 9217 5987, juliemore@gmail.com
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health & beauty Strike a pose Top 5 yoga poses and benefits by Emma Linnitt of The Yoga House.
1. Child’s pose Target areas: - Releases tension in the back, shoulders and chest - Helps alleviate stress and anxiety - Lengthens and stretches the spine, stretches the hips, thighs and ankles Benefits: Calms the mind and body E ncourages strong and steady breathing
2. Cow pose Target areas: - Strengthens and stretches the spine and back - Stretches, hips, abdomen and back - Massages and stimulates organs in the belly e.g. kidney and adrenal glands Benefits: I mproves posture, balance and coordination Relieves stress and calms the mind
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3. D ownward Dog pose
R elieves the tension in the spine,
Target areas: - Stretches shoulders, hamstrings, calves, arches and hands - Strengthens the arms and legs Benefits: Energises the body Improves digestion R elieves headache, insomnia, back pain and fatigue
Stimulates the kidneys, liver & spleen E ases symptoms of menopause,
4. S tanding Forward Bend pose Target areas: - Stretches the hips, hamstrings and calves - Strengthens the thighs and knees - Keeps the spine strong and flexible Benefits: R educes stress, anxiety, depression and fatigue
neck and back
asthma, headaches and insomnia
5. Triangle pose Target areas: - Stretches legs, ankle joints, hips, groin muscles, hamstrings, calves, shoulders, chest and spine - Strengthens legs, knees, ankles abdominals, obliques and back Benefits: S timulates function of the abdominal organs Improves digestion and constipation U sed therapeutically for anxiety, infertility, neck pain and sciatica
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Road railings
zim city
T
ravelling offers a perspective on how effectively we are designing our city. Comparisons provide an opportunity to learn about what works and what does not. My focus when visiting other cities is often on transport, traffic design and engineering, as these decisions impact strongly how people enjoy the city. My recent trip to London was particularly interesting, as Hong Kong’s ‘Transport Planning and Design Manual’ is based on pre-97 UK standards. Although cold, the weather was dry and I borrowed a friend’s bicycle to experience the city. One immediate and obvious observation was that London has removed almost all of its road railings. From South Kensington to Elephant and Castle to Acton Town, railings have been removed, pavements have been remodeled, the kerb lowered and traffic signs dramatically reduced and - where possible - combined onto lamp posts. Guard railings were introduced in the 1930s in the UK. Hong Kong followed suit. There was a warning against their overuse in The Design and Layout of Roads in Built-up Areas (1946) which stated, “the indiscriminate erection of guardrails or barriers...would give rise to an unpleasant feeling of restraint”, but it was not until 2007, when the Manual for Streets codified the design of streets in the UK as safe and successful places, that railings started to be removed everywhere in London. This is all part of a ‘shared space concept’, first developed in the Netherlands by Hans Monderman. He proved that an individual’s behavior in traffic is more positively affected by the built environment than by conventional traffic control devices and regulations. He found that roads are safer when people seek eye contact with other road users and drivers reduce speed when they have contact with pedestrians and take greater care.
This is exactly what happens on Jordan’s small streets or on Wellington Street in Central during lunch time, when pedestrians take over the streets because pavements are too narrow. Reducing the top speed of vehicles is key. With our short and congested roads this will not impact average journey time much, but it will make our city more enjoyable for pedestrians. The redesign of London’s busy roads has had a positive effect on road safety and revitalized communities and business, as road users’ behaviour has become influenced by human interactions rather than by artificial regulation. It is time now for Hong Kong to overhaul our outdated street design manuals! How do we convince the Government to adopt the latest street design codes from its former colonial masters?
Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
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Horoscopes
hong kong horoscopes
AQUARIUS Jan 21–Feb 19
PISCES Feb 20–Mar 20
ARIES Mar 21–Apr 20
TAURUS Apr 21–May 21
You will meet a tall dark stranger in a Lan Kwai Fong club. They might promise you the earth: You can start with a vodka lime soda. They’ll ask you to head back to their place, but think before accepting. Sure, they’re looking good on the neon-lit dancefloor, but will that translate to long-term happiness? In love, as in life, discretion is the better part of Volar.
Life is a hotpot, and we are but the ingredients. It bubbles and simmers along, buffeting us around. But what kind of ingredient are you, Scorpio? Are you a piece of beef, oh-so-quick to change with your surroundings? Are you a noodle strand, always sliding to the bottom? Or are you a humble fishball, seemingly unremarkable – but always bobbing to the top? Try to be a fishball, Pisces.
The latest hip Hong Kong restaurant has just opened, and you’re desperate for a table. Chill out, Aries. When a restaurant first opens, everything’s a mess. The kitchen’s not a team, the serving staff doesn’t know the dishes, and chaos reigns. Doesn’t sound like the nextlevel dining experience of your dreams, does it? Things take time to come together, and sometimes you just have to let them happen. Just don’t leave it too late. Chances are, that hip new eatery will be closed in six months.
Is your commute to work getting you down? In this city of convenience, even a 10-minute ride on the MidLevels escalator can start to drag. Taurus, keep those spirits bullish by turning your commute into time for yourself. We have to grab our meditation where we may. If that’s five minutes in a cab, so be it. Here’s your mantra: Hommm Kommm, Hommm Kommm….
LEO Jul 23–Aug 22
VIRGO Aug 23–Sep 23
LIBRA Sep 24–Oct 23
SCORPIO Oct 24–Nov 22
Here is a limerick for you to take to heart, Leo: A young man of Wellington Street / Bought a flat of some 20 square feet / When asked “How’d you squeeze?”/ He said: “With great ease: / I sleep where I shave where I eat.” Be like the man of Wellington Street, and strive to be more adaptable in the face of adversity. Use the tools you’re given not just to make do, but come out on top.
Did you watch the Chinese New Year fireworks? If you watched them in public, then you’ll have heard the universal Hong Kong sound of firework appreciation: “Wahhhhhh!” It’s a satisfying noise, Virgo. Try it out! Let it roll out of your lungs in a single breath. Take it, practice it, and then apply it to your life. Ask yourself: What should you be wahhhhing about more?
Your mission this month, Libra: Get out of that insulated bubble. Seek Hong Kong’s far-flung. Jump on a ferry to somewhere unusual. Ride the MTR to the end of the line. Go camping in the wilderness. See what’s hidden in the corners of the city. You’re bound to discover something interesting. And if not, then a French toast and an iced lemon tea will have made the whole thing worthwhile anyway.
Causeway Bay on a Sunday afternoon is a seething mass of humanity. Shoppers, wanderers and tourists all come together in the very heart of the city. In Cantonese, they use the phrase “people mountain people sea” to describe the press of people. It can be overwhelming, sure. But it’s also worth going to celebrate the sheer rush of humanity. Just have a coffee shop in mind for when you need to chill out again.
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GEMINI May 22–Jun 21
CANCER Jun 22–Jul 22
Gemini, how long is it since you last sat down and had a heart-to-heart with yourselves? It’s easy in Hong Kong to concentrate on the outward pleasures, but sometimes you’ve got to step away from the champagne brunch buffet and tend to your inner life. Make like a Trappist monk and retreat inside yourself, or you could be entering the long dark cha chaan teng of the soul.
The year of the rooster has arrived. Why not show solidarity with the Chinese zodiac by giving up chicken for a month? Not on ethical grounds – just because it’s a boringly safe choice. Skip your next chicken meal and order lamb, beef, beetroot, quinoa – anything as long as it’s not chicken. Or crab. You’ll be living a more adventurous life – and the roosters will thank you.
SAGITTARIUS Nov 23–Dec 21
CAPRICORN Dec 22–Jan 20
Times of trouble may lay ahead, Sagittarius. If they come about, I want you to ask yourself: WWCYD? It stands for “What Would CY Do?” Ask it, then just go ahead and do the exact opposite. The solutions to your problems lie in opening up, not shutting down. As the Chief Executive could learn, you can’t keep everyone happy – but at least you can be true to your self.
Money worries getting your goat, Capricorn? Maybe you didn’t haul in as much lai see as you thought you would this CNY, or your annual bonus has come up short. Take heart, friend. You might not be scooping up Mark Six-style cash – but then again, no one else does either. Don’t worry: there’s wealth in your future, and it’ll appear like a typhoon 8 on a Monday – just when you need it most.
Woof!
pets
Eating, grass, great walks, & poop! by, staff writers
Walkies with Sai Kung-based food blogger, Christy Ma of www.lollerroll.com
Ask a vet... Pets Central’s veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions.
Q: Which is your favourite dog walk and why? Truffle, who’s a 3-year-old toy poodle, hates sea water but loves the beach, that’s why our favourite walk is a mini hike from Sai Wan Ting to Ham Tin Wan Beach in Sai Kung. It’s a scenic value-for-effort “walking” route. We love it because the route requires minimal levels of fitness and passes through some of the most scenic mountainous views and secluded beaches. There are two ways to get to Sai Wan Ting - catch a taxi from Sai Kung for $100 or take the minibus 29R route outside McDonalds in Sai Kung Town (there are only three buses per day on weekdays, and runs more frequently over the weekends). After a 30-40 minute walk from Sai Wan Ting, you’ll reach the first beach, Sai Wan Beach in Sai Wan village. After walking across the beach, climb back up the mountain and continue following the Maclehose Trail. After another 20-30 minute walk, you’ll arrive at Ham Tin Beach. The walk very well-paved throughout and lasts only about 1 ½ hours, making it an easy walk for first-timers. The ascents and descents are also relatively mild and infrequent so it’s very family-friendly and pretty easy for a toy poodle like Truffle. Most importantly, the end point at Ham Tin Wan is extremely rewarding. We like to sit at a beachside cafe which serves Hong Kong-style local food like fried noodles, chicken wings, spring rolls and sip on an ice cold beer. For Truffle, he gets to dig his paws into the soft sand and play a much more challenging game of catch. From Ham Tin Wan, there are two ways to leave. Our preferred way is to take a bumpy rollercoaster speedboat ride back to Sai Kung Town (make sure you reserve the tickets at the cafe as soon as you reach the beach as seats are limited. Tickets are $130-150. If tickets are sold out, another sail can be organised at a premium price). Alternatively, you could level up to a full hike, which stretches to another 1 ½-2 hours of walking back to Pak Tam Au where you’ll make your way back to the main road to take a taxi or bus back to Sai Kung Sai Wan Pavillion Town. This part is a little more strenuous, and probably only suited for fit dogs.
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Q: “My dog as a tendency to “roll” in mud and poo. Why does he do this?” - Samantha, The Peak A: To be perfectly honest no one, including scientists and animal behaviourists, really know why dogs do this but they definitely do! They also seem to delight in this pastime much to most people’s disgust. Dogs have a much better sense of smell than humans. It is reckoned that some breeds like bloodhounds and bassets, those dogs humans train to use their noses to work for us, have around 500-600,000 times more cells than us in their nasal passages that detect smells. Can you imagine if you were a dog what it would be like to walk along the beach and suddenly smell a delicious dead fish? It appears dogs do not like nice smells like we humans. It is well documented how many dogs, given the chance after a nice bubble bath, will immediately go and roll in the nearest piece of sand or grass, and get dirty again. Wolves roll in earth and animal matter to disguise their own smell. This helps them in the hunt for prey, to get closer to it before they start the hunt for dinner. Dogs are 98% similar in genetic matter to wolves, their common ancestor, so it is probably acceptable that (given the chance) a dog rolling in mud and poo is an inherited behaviour that in modern dogs has not yet been bred out. Q: “Why does my dog eat grass?” - Emily Jones, Sai Kung A: The jury is out on this. Your dog may have an upset stomach, and eats grass blades to help him vomit and purge his system. Another theory is that the dogs are eating grass to mimic a “lost nutrient” of their ancestors found usually by hunting and then eating the contents of the stomachs of herbivores. A third theory is that dogs just do it because to them, it’s fun and they can.
Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk
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marketplace The Hong Kong gardening column
S
o lovely to be in the garden this month. February in Hong Kong is mostly mild and dry. Temperatures meander between 14 and 19 °C. A cotton safari jacket should suffice. Now is a good time to put in the Chrysanthemum cuttings.Chrysanthemum require dark arts to flourish in Hong Kong. Trick one - wrap the cuttings in wet Canton mud before placing them into a mix of sand and leaf soil. Pot them off late March. The Crotons we propagated last summer should be potted on. Their varied foliage will bring a brightness to your garden come summer. Assuming your Crossvine has finished flowering by now, prune and retie it. It’s also a good time to sow some sunflower seeds. These quickly bring colour and charm to any garden and a great fun for children. A note about flower pots: they should never be placed on the ground, but on ashes or raised on bricks or similar. If pots are stood on the ground the advantages of drainage are soon lost, as the ground beneath becomes impervious to water and worms are able to enter the pot. Regarding vegetables: In February, the Hong Kong gardener may sow seeds for mustard, cress, radish, turnip, peas, spinach, ochres and long beans. Now is also a good time to manure the asparagus beds, and put out young plants of lettuce, marrow, tomato, cucumber and Brinjal. A word on soil quality. The successful Hong Kong garden begins with soil. But good loam is rare in Hong Kong – soil rejected in England would be considered of high value if obtainable in the colony. But ours is not to complain. We must make the best of what we have. And with some preparation it will be enough. For potting purposes the following recipe can bring good results – three parts Hong Kong garden soil, one part manure, half part leaf-soil and half part sand. Mix together so it is neither wet nor dry. Now, fellow gardener, raise the results to your nose and inhale. In that warm earth reside all the possibilities of the new season.
By William James Tutcher F.L.S (1867-1920) Superintendent of Hong Kong Botanical Gardens. Paraphrased from his seminal 1906 work Gardening for Hong Kong.
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Ghost refugees
stephen says...
Refugees, property & how to improve Sai Kung by, Stephen Vines.
I
t’s been a really bad time for climate change deniers as temperatures have been rising dramatically and so have tidal levels. Even little old Sai Kung has been affected because the unusually warm winter weather has attracted more visitors. In the longer term these trends threaten to produce more violent typhoons, posing particular problems for an area located on a peninsula. It is the more immediate impact that has struck me most, not least because the influx of people has transformed relatively quiet hikes in the Sai Kung Country Park into less quiet events, sometimes involving people actually queuing to pass narrow stretches of the park’s trails. There is no respectable reason for complaint over greater use of the parks but there is such a thing as selfishness and I have to admit that I have relished walking over great stretches of the countryside with not a person in sight. Some of the newcomers appear to have arrived with plenty of litter and, despite the advent of hi-tech earphones, blaring radios. Hum, it’s definitely a problem. One reason why the country parks in the Sai Kung area are getting better used is that public transportation has improved and will soon be further enhanced by the new MTR line linking Sha Tin and Admiralty. Having recently had the rather harrowing experience of visiting Lantau Island on a public holiday, a journey that took some two and half hours to complete from Sai Kung, I have vowed never again to complain about public transport in our area. Lantau, aside from Tung Chung, has low population density and, like Sai Kung, has some really magnificent countryside, however access to the country parks is made highly problematic by the lack of public transport from the ferries and the MTR stations that mark the starting point of most Lantau journeys. The Lantau New Bus Company makes very little effort to increase services at peak times and runs a schedule that suits the resident population when demand is low. Taxis are virtually impossible to obtain because of the very limited number of taxis in Lantau’s restricted area. The net result is something of a nightmare if you wish to access the island’s scenic spots; no wonder people are more attracted to Sai Kung.
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A little piece of history sprung to mind on seeing the government’s recent land auction list. Land is being auctioned in part of the area that housed the infamous Vietnamese refugee camp at Whitehead close to Ma On Shan - the biggest of the refugee camps in Hong Kong, housing 28,000 people and in 1996 was the scene of a riot that was beyond the authority’s control. Memories are short but in the space of two decades tiny Hong Kong took in 230,000 Vietnamese boat people, starting with a trickle in 1975 that turned into a flood during the 1980’s. The situation created by the influx was tough for everyone, the refugees became virtual prisoners, the authorities were straining under the pressure of their numbers and a lack of resources and there was widespread community resentment over the burden placed on Hong Kong with precious little international support. As ever the big picture was filled with any number of heart breaking personal stories. As a journalist covering this story I made a number of visits to Whitehead where I spoke to some quite extraordinary and brave people who were looking for a better life. They lived in pretty primitive conditions behind barbed wire and it seemed to me were mostly bothered by the boredom of their existence. However there was also quite a high level of violence and considerable gang control over parts of the camp. In among this sprawling mass of people were some valiant volunteers who provided legal and social services and worked with the camps’ school, others provided less formal types of education, it was Hong Kong at its best, making do with very little. I ended up giving the camp as much office equipment as I could spare which included a battered computer provided by my employer, The Observer newspaper. Years later some petty bureaucrat in the London office demanded the return of the computer. I told him that it was not a problem and that he should go to Whitehead camp to collect it. I suspect this did not happen. Stephen Vines is a journalist, broadcaster and entrepreneur. He is the former editor of the Eastern Express and Southeast Asia correspondent for The Observer.
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