FAMILY | FOOD | TRAVEL | OUTDOORS
February 2017
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The really useful magazine February 2017
PEOPLE 4 Snapped! Southside’s social life. THE PLANNER 6 Happening in February What’s on. OUR FAVOURITE THINGS 12 Valentine’s Day Gift ideas. NEWS 14 What’s going on? In your backyard. GIVEAWAYS 16 Free stuff Fab things to win. FIVE MINUTES WITH... 18 Yuen Hing Leung Owner of Wah Fu’s first Cantonese cafe.
LOCAL 20 The free clinic The student-led initiative providing free healthcare to Hong Kong’s underprivileged. COVER STORY 26 Horizon Plaza The survival guide. READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS 36 Vote to win Have your say in our annual Southside awards. HOME & LIVING 38 House in Pok Fu Lam A sneak peek inside. EDUCATION 44 Behind the scenes at... Kellet School.
EATING 48 Comfort food Our favourite places for hearty grub. Plus Nibbles. BIG DAY OUT 54 Plover Cove Rory Mackay embarks on another adventure. TRAVEL 56 Bespoke travel The low-down on tailor-made holidays.
PETS 65 Ask a vet “Why does my dog eat grass?” HOROSCOPE 66 You will meet a tall, dark stranger... Adam White predicts your future. SOUTHSIDE SECRETS 72 St. Stephen’s College Eric Ho gets a history lesson in Stanley.
HEALTH & BEAUTY 62 I’m an expat mum and I’m an alcoholic A recovering alcoholic tells her story. ZIM CITY 64 Paul Zimmerman on… Road railings.
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“HISTORY DOESN’T REPEAT ITSELF, BUT IT DOES RHYME..” - MARK TWAIN
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contributors
Kate Davngiee sa nd there
s a ch a lle K at e Da vi es lo ve n g or ore cra zy, a m a zi p m a y n ot be a m gu ey th a n b ri n g in rn u jo g in in a rt n’t ente two- yea r-ol d is r he n he W . le little pe op in g, r toes, sh e’ s w rit he on r he g in ke ep g la ss of hu nt fo r a g reat ellet hi ki n g or on th e Pok Fu L a m ’s K ts si vi e at K s. le b bu b 44. Sch oo l on pa g e
Vasavi Seethepalli
Ou r co ve r artist. A s a n artist liv in g in H on g Ko ng fo r over ni ne ye ars, Va sa vi ha s ex plore d every ar ea of H on g Ko ng, in co rp oratin g m ost of wh at sh e ha s ob se rve d in he r art: th e vib ra ncy, th e pe op le, th e sm ells, th e cu ltu re - a nd no w, H oriz on Pla za! Ch ec k out he r wo rk at www. artby- va sa vi. co m
Rory MaHconkg aK onyg a nd
bet wee n re R ory g re w u p g er to a dve nt u n ra st o n is e H h er Scotl a n d. n d a bout. W h et d s, a t ou s y a lw a an a n d is Scott is h Hig hl e th in s ro n u so lo sca li n g m Pole or cy clin g th or N e th to g sa ili n lo re n ew h e lo ve s to ex p a dve nt u re a cross Africa, bout hi s late st a t ou d in F s. p la ce on pa g e 54. to Plo ve r C ove
Want to write for Southside Magazine? Contact editorial@fastmedia.com.hk
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people Snaps from Southside
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say cheese
Share your event photos with us at editorial@fastmedia.com.hk. Get snapping!
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planner
FEB 18
Cold Half Swim
The 15km winter marathon charity swim is back and takes place from Stanley Main Beach to Deep Water Bay Beach. This is a solo or two-person relay race, only for advanced swimmers with confidence and dare. If you love open water swimming but mind the extreme distance, sign up for The Cold Challenge - a 1.5km satellite race happening concurrently in Deep Water Bay Beach (wetsuits welcome). Stick around after the race for a barbecue and awards presentation at Victoria Recreation Club in Deep Water Bay. Registration closes on February 10. For more information and to register, visit www.openwaterasia.com
FEB 3-5 Legends in Concert
FEB 10-12 Longines Masters Hong Kong
UNTIL FEB 12 AIA Christmas Carnival
The live celebrity tribute show features an allstar cast of Elvis Presley, Adele, David Bowie and Madonna direct from Las Vegas to The Parisian, Macau. Running for 33 years, Legends in Concert is Las Vegas’ longest-running live entertainment show. Tickets $180-$480 from www.hkticketing.com, 3128 8288.
The third stop of the prestigious equestrian events arrives in Hong Kong spotlighting the best show jumpers in the world. Tickets start from $200 up to $4,000 for premium suite access. Visit www.longinesmaster.com for more information and to purchase tickets.
Roll up, roll up! The AIA Great European Carnival returns to Central Harbourfront. Attracting more than one million visitors last year, the carnival once again plays host to fairground rides, games, dance shows, pantomimes and magicians. More than one million cuddly toys are there to be won! Tickets start at $90 for children and $125 for adults. More information at www.tgec.asia
FEB 3-5 Meditation Talks Guest speaker Lama Ole Nydahl, a Danish Lama in the Karma Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, leads a series of talks over three days spanning meditation, The Great Seal, Buddhism in everyday life and working with disturbing emotions. $500 for the full course; $120 for individual talks. Sessions will be held at Bradbury School, 43C Stubbs Road. Get your tickets at www.ticketflap.com/meditation-talks
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FEB 12 Standard Chartered Marathon Hong Kong’s annual marathon is back with full, half and 10km marathons, plus 3km and 10km wheelchair races. Starts on Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Entries are now closed but you can still go along to support. www.hkmarathon.com
Music by the Sea
FEB 12
Stanley’s monthly busking event. With a variety of songs, from classic, pop to originals, head over and relax by the sea with some great live music. 2:30-4:30pm, Stanley Plaza.
happening in February UNTIL FEB 12 KidsFest 2017 The biggest children’s theatre festival returns for another year of fun-filled performances at the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts. One production not to miss is Gruffalos, Ladybirds and other Beasts which features
Julia Donaldson herself live on stage. Tickets available at www.hkticketing.com or call 3128 8288.
FEB 14 Valentine’s Day See page 12 for gift ideas.
FEB 14, 16 & 17 Kundalini Yoga class/concert led by Jai-Jagdeesh Singer and yogi Jai-Jagdeesh comes to Hong Kong to lead three Kundalini Yoga sessions. Kundalini Yoga is a deep practice involving asana, meditation and a little chanting. Classes will most likely be held in Stanley ($350 per class or $900 for all three). Spaces are limited. To reserve yours, email kirstenzaki@me.com or call 9263 9155. www.jaijagdeesh.com Feb 14, 7:30pm: The wisdom of the heart Feb 16, 7:30pm: The gift of inner peace Feb 17, 6:30pm: Becoming light
FEB 17-25 India by the Bay A week-long cultural programme of events including music, theatre and guest speakers to celebrate India’s cultural diversity. Visit asiasociety.org/hong-kong for full programme information.
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planner FEB 19 The Hills X SPCA Dogathon 2017 Hong Kong Disneyland is set to throw the city’s largest dog party of the year. Doggie games and treats await with onstage performances and a goodie bag for every pooch. Tickets from $589 for two adults and one dog. Email dogathon@spca.org.hk or call 2232 5579 for details.
FEB 19 Central & Western Pet Carnival Hong Kong Dog Rescue partners with the Central & Western District Office to organize a pet- and family-friendly carnival at the Chung Kong Road Dog Park in Sheung Wan (behind the Central Police District Headquarters). Enjoy fun games for children and dogs, prizes, educational talks on responsible dog ownership and entertainment. Free admission. 11am-5pm.
FEB 20 & 25 Harbour School info sessions & open days Monday, Feb 20: 6-8:30pm: Information Session about the middle school and high school (G7 to G12), Garden Campus, Ap Lei Chau Saturday, Feb 25, 2-4pm: Open Day for students Grades 1 to 8, Grove Campus, Ap Lei Chau Saturday, Feb 25, 10am-noon: Open Day for students Pre-Kindergarten and Kindergarten, Main Campus, Kennedy Town
FEB 24 - MAR 4 Hansel & Gretel
FEB 26 Run For Survival
A living diorama of spectacle, song and puppets, inspired by the classic fairytale opera by Engelbert Humperdinck. The HKU Black Box, Run Run Shaw Tower, Centennial Campus, The University of Hong Kong. Tickets from $150 from www.ticketflap.com
Take on the role of threatened marine animals and avoid myriad obstacles on your path to survival. The event incorporates a 3km family fun run and a 10km timed challenge at Hong Kong Science Park. Individual registration starts from $350 ($250 for under 12s) and $800 for a family of up to four people. For more information, visit www.opcf.org.hk
FEB 25-26 Dragonland Music Festival Hong Kong’s first outdoor concert combining pop and electronic dance music with some of the world’s chart-topping artists like Black Eyed Peas, Zedd, Iggy Azalea and Redfoo. Hong Kong favourite, Leon Lai will be holding a special concert during the festival. Central Harbourfront. Tickets from www.hotdogtix.com
Hong Kong Arts Festival
FEB 26 Hike for Hospice Hike for Hospice raises much-needed funds for the Society for the Promotion of Hospice Care (SPHC). Now in its 25th year, the 2017 route will see hikers walk through Tai Lam Country Park. For registration and fundraising information, visit hike.hospicecare.org.hk
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Renderings of Harbour School’s new Grove campus in Ap Lei Chau.
FEB 23 Eddie Izzard live Comedy genius brings his mammoth ‘Force Majeure’ tour to Hong Kong as part of more than 30 stops around the world. Academy Community Hall, Hong Kong Baptist University. Tickets $488-$988 from www.hkticketing.com or call 3128 8288.
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Photo credit: Wilfred Hösl
The 45th Hong Kong Arts Festival presents over 1,600 of the world’s top artists and stars of tomorrow in 149 performances. Audiences are treated to a wide ranging programme including theatre, music, chamber opera and contemporary dance during the month long festival. Visit www.hk.artsfestival.org for more information or visit www.urbtix.hk to buy tickets. Visit www.hk.artsfestival.org for more information.org.hk
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planner
BOOK NOW MAR 16-19 Taste of Hong Kong
MAR 20-25 Art Central
APR 1 The Women’s Five
A food lover’s paradise. Sample signature dishes from some of Hong Kong’s top restaurants and artisan producers at the festival. Central Harbourfront. For more information, visit hongkong.tastefestivals.com
Art Central returns to Central Harbourfront for its third edition, featuring over 100 leading international galleries. Large-scale installations, performances, talks and panel discussions await Hong Kong’s growing art community. Tickets start from $230 from www.ticketflap.com
A five-week running and yoga program which culminates in a 5km run through Aberdeen Country Park. Launched in partnership with HK Running and yoga teachers throughout the city, training includes videos, free classes and weekly meet-ups. Registration costs $800 per person and will be capped at 500 entries or 10 days before the run, whichever comes first. A fraction of the proceeds will go to RainLily, a crisis centre for the protection of sexual violence victims. For more information, visit www.womensfive.com
MAR 15-18 Hong Kong French Theatre Festival Back for a second year, this festival is organised by Southside residents Sebastien and Beatrice Biessy. All theatre companies will be performing for free. Profits will go to Pour un Sourire d’Enfant, a charity whose schools educate Cambodian children in need. Five shows over four days (in French with English subtitles): book your tickets online at www.thkftf.com
APR 7-9 Rugby 7s Three days of beer, singing, dodgy dancing, fancy dress and not to forget the world-class rugby. Tickets are on sale for the city’s biggest sporting event, starting at $350-750 each and can be purchased at www.viagogo.com. Hong Kong Stadium, So Kon Po, hksevens.com
Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk.
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our favourite things
Variety of Valentine’s Day cards 25 each from The Lion Rock Press, $ thelionrockpress.com
Chocolate Violet Ganache Cake 98 per 100g cake. Available $ between February 8-14 only from The Mandarin Cake Shop. 5 Connaught Rd Central, 2825 4008, mandarinoriental.com/hongkong
Naida cocktail ring (blue diamond) 4,950 from Monica Vinader, $ 1025C, Podium Level One, ifc Mall , 1 Harbour View Street, Central, 3568 6628, www.monicavinader.com
Will you be my valentine? Gifts for your loved one.
All available from Bookazine, Shop G107 C&D, G/F, The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Road, 2750 1136, www.bookazine.com.hk
ane Eyre by Charlotte Bronte J ($150) A young girl, saddled with a cruel aunt and a bitter upbringing at Lowood School, eventually becomes governess to the children of the handsome Mr. Rochester, with whom she falls in love. But the dark secrets of his past and outside influences threaten to destroy their romance.
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e Notebook by Nicholas Th Sparks ($80) At thirty-one, Noah Calhoun is back in North Carolina after World War II, haunted by images of the girl he lost over a decade earlier. At twenty-nine, socialite Allie Nelson is about to marry a wealthy lawyer, but she cannot stop thinking about the boy who long ago stole her heart...
e Rosie Project by Graeme Th Simsion ($112) In the orderly, evidencebased manner with which genetics professor Don Tillman approaches all things, he designs the Wife Project to find his perfect partner: a sixteen-page survey to filter out the drinkers, the smokers, the late arrivers. And then comes Rosie Jarman‌
e Peanuts Guide to Love by Th Charles M. Schulz ($128) The Peanuts gang offer their wisdom on love.
thoughts that count 5 date ideas for Valentine’s Day in Hong Kong
Patterned socks From $110 each, www.happysocks.com
from Violet Lim, Co-Founder of Lunch Actually, Asia’s first lunch dating specialist.
1. Try Art Jamming where you and your date can either work on the same painting or different ones. It’s a great way to explore your creative sides and have fun together. www.artjamming.com Flex 2 $868 from fitbit, www.fitbit.com
2. If you want to up the romance factor, try going to an outdoor cinema. Hong Kong Open Air Cinema Club screens movies all around Hong Kong. www.facebook.com/ HongKongOpenAirCinemaClub
3. Keep it casual and unwind with a relaxing stroll along Shek Tong Tsui waterfront. Time it for sunset and enjoy the gorgeous view, before rounding the evening off with dinner at a nearby restaurant. I like Little Creatures. www.littlecreatures.hk
Double Happiness silk blend scarf $680 from G.O.D, Shop 105 Stanley Plaza, 22-23 Carmel Road, 2673 0071, www.god.com.hk
4. Get a relaxing treatment at a Southside spa. Stanley’s Sabai Day Spa only has single treatment rooms but is good value and local. www.sabaidayspa.com
5. Pack a picnic and head to one of Southside’s beautiful beaches. Add a bottle of wine for some romance. Or skip the picnic, take a ferry to an outlying island and have dinner there. (See page 52 for ready-made hampers).
Hong Kong Districts silk tie $580 from G.O.D.
One for you, one for me... Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Private treatment rooms, heated massage tables and outrageously soft bath robes - need we say more? The hotel’s Plateau Spa is one of the best in the city and has launched a range of new treatments for Spring. Treatments for two include Rose Indulgence (a 60-minute massage with Rose essential oil, followed by a deluxe afternoon tea and canapes; $2,200) and the Couple’s Spring Retreat (a 90-minute aroma oil massage and a glass of Champagne or wellness juice; $2,900). Prices are subject to a 10 percent service charge. Available daily from February 1-30. For enquiries, call 2584 7688 or email plateau.hkggh@hyatt.com. 11/F Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com, www.plateauspa.com
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news
HD BUTTERCUP OPENS IN HORIZON PLAZA
Newsflash: Shambala has finally closed down. In its place has arrived Californian furniture retailer, HD Buttercup. The 15,000 sq.ft. warehouse-style space is organised into multiple room sets based around five fixed themes – Mid-Century Modern (clean, uncluttered and contemporary); California Coastal (comfortable beach chic); Nomad (a well-travelled, lived-in look); Family (relaxed, family-friendly pieces) and Luxe Living (rich elegance). Pieces fly in from the US every week and major launches occur twice a year for spring/summer and autumn/winter. Rounding off the inventory are two sizeable Timothy Oulton and Sonder Living concessions. “We offer affordable furnishing solutions with an exceptional level of handiwork,” says General manager, John Larose. “Our leather
armchairs, for example, are full-grain leather with a hand-rubbed finish and springs that have been hand-tied eight ways.” Complementing the furniture is a dedicated rugs section and a diverse range of artwork, all licensed, certified and limited so you won’t suddenly see your recent purchase in all your friends’ homes. Design consultants are on hand to offer guidance and styling advice, and you can buy anything on the shop floor and take it home there and then. A delivery service is also available. HD Buttercup is open for business, with the grand opening scheduled for later this month. Open daily, from 10am-7:30pm. 2/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, 2555 2997, www.hdbuttercup.com
PEDESTRIAN CROSSING REQUESTED OUTSIDE OCEAN PARK MTR STATION
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DOG CHARITY SEARCHES FOR NEW PREMISES Hong Kong Dog Rescue (HKDR) is on the lookout for a new homing centre, thanks to rising rents. The organisation was told that the rent on its Ap Lei Chau Homing Centre would be nearly doubling to $24,000 per month, one week after the launch of the new MTR South Island line. It has until the end of March either to agree to the higher price or find a new premises. After negotiations, the landlord has agreed to come down to $20,000 per month, but despite the slightly improved terms, HKDR is still considering other locations. “We are thinking about staying and paying the increased rental. However, we are also looking at bigger spaces: initially the Homing Centre was meant to house just a few dogs, but we have had anything up to 40 here at a time,” says Sally Anderson, founder of HKDR. “We are waiting for a reply from the landlord of another, larger space in Ap Lei Chau. We are also considering moving to another area, perhaps Sai Ying Pun.” Since HKDR was founded in 2003, it has homed around 7,500 dogs and has been operating in Ap Lei Chau since 2011. If you know of a suitable location for a homing centre, contact sally@hongkongdogrescue.com
The Southern District Council has requested the installation of a pedestrian crossing between Shouson Hill and the bus stops to Stanley and Tai Tam. The subject was raised at a meeting last month but no commitments have yet been made by the Highways Department. Currently, pedestrians travelling to Stanley and Tai Tam via the new MTR South Island Line face either a long walk or a hazardous road crossing when exiting Ocean Park MTR station to catch the minibus. Due to a lack of pedestrian crossings on this part of the busy Wong Chuk Hang Road, the safest option is to walk up towards Nam Fung Road, cross at the traffic lights and head back towards the bus stop: a 450m journey. Most pedestrians have been taking the shorter route - only 100m - but in doing so are putting themselves in danger.
in your backyard
STUDY LAUNCHED ON OVERALL TRAFFIC CONDITIONS IN ABERDEEN
AP LEI CHAU SITE GOES ON SALE
The government has added a site in Ap Lei Chau to its land sale plan for the first quarter of 2017. According to the government’s news website, the site - off Lee Nam Road - can provide over 1,400 flats. The sale comes despite strong opposition from many residents and district councillors. The public tender will close at noon on February 17.
The Southern District Council (SDC) has launched a study into overall traffic conditions in Aberdeen. The study is part of the government’s District-led Actions Scheme. It will run for the entire year with the end goal of improving traffic conditions within the town centre. Proposals include: converting Nam Ning Street to a oneway street, reviewing the locations of bus and
minibus stops, reviewing the queuing space at the entrance to the car park of Aberdeen Centre and widening footpaths. A traffic impact assessment will be conducted to demonstrate the feasibility of improvement measures together with a public consultation to assure the support from the public.
OVER 30,000 PEOPLE CRASH OCEAN PARK WEBSITE Hongkongers love a good bargain. When Ocean Park offered discounted tickets in celebration of its 40th anniversary, over 30,000 people flooded the site causing it to crash. The tickets were on sale for $40 - a saving of over 90 percent. Within 20 minutes, Ocean Park had to shut
the purchase system due to the overwhelming response. The theme park later announced that a further 20,000 discounted tickets would go on sale but only from ticket offices at the park.
LIFESTYLE FEDERATION TO OPEN NEW RESTAURANT IN WONG CHUK HANG Lifestyle Federation is opening a brand new restaurant later this month, just above its office in Wong Chuk Hang. The space will have a total of 20 seats, including a private VIP room for booking. The menu will be a mixture of Asian and Western cuisine. Not a member of Lifestyle Federation? Not to worry - the new dining spot is open to all. The soft opening is planned for early February. For more information call 2840 0222, www.lifestylefederation.com
CONNECTING SOUTHSIDE BY WATER A proposal has been made to connect Stanley to Ap Lei Chau via water transport. The proposal was made in a recent workshop held by the Southern District Council, where concerns were raised regarding the problem of traffic jams in the area. Ap Lei Chau has been suggested as the main hub because of its new MTR station. The proposal could see new piers installed along Ap Lei Chau, Repulse Bay Beach, Deep Water Bay Beach and Stanley - with water taxis connecting up the locations. Fergus Fung, District Councillor for the Bays Area, has been championing the idea for years. “The plan is still currently in the exploratory stage but I am positive,” he says. “We have support from many stakeholders...Southside currently suffers from too many vehicles which result in traffic problems. Opening up a new avenue of transport will ease the congestion.”
WW2 BOMB FOUND IN POK FU LAM Last month a World War II bomb was discovered at 138 Pok Fu Lam Road, unearthed during excavation work on a construction site. People around the vicinity were evacuated as the police temporarily sealed off the area to carry out a controlled detonation.
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win at www.southside.hk
GIVEAWAYS
enter to win! Biobeauty Spa Treat yourself with a 90-minute facial at Bio Beauty Spa. Valued at $2,500, the procedure uses a FOTONA laser machine to rejuvenate the skin, remove dark spots, reduce pigmentation, improve skin tone and minimize enlarged pores. Included in the laser treatment is a full facial (cleansing, exfoliation, blackhead removal, and mask). One lucky reader gets to enjoy this facial. Deadline: February 23
A.O.C. This charming little restaurant is just a stone’s throw away from Queen’s Road East and serves casual French cuisine and delicious desserts. Founded by the team behind Le Bistro Winebeast, A.O.C is named after Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, a quality marker for French cuisine worldwide. And of course, it has an extensive wine list. One lucky reader will win a four-course dinner for two. Deadline: February 20
Faust
Cambridge Weight Plan
The tale of Pinocchio comes to life from February 15-17 at Youth Square thanks to Faust International Youth Theatre. Watch the wooden puppet meet a myriad of colorful characters, from Geppetto the kind puppet maker, to the Blue Fairy and more. We’re giving away one family pack of two adult tickets and two children’s tickets to the opening show on February 15.
Developed by Cambridge University doctors in the US, Cambridge Weight Plan helps people lose weight in a safe and convenient way. Now in thirty countries around the world, Cambridge Weight Plan Hong Kong is run by accredited counsellor Sarah Armstrong. One reader will
win a starter pack of Cambridge products along with a free nutrition consultation, worth $1,190. Deadline: February 21
Deadline: February 8
Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: www.southside.hk/subscribe 16 | WWW.SOUTHSIDE.HK
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five minutes with
YUEN HING LEUNG Publisher
The founder of Wah Fu’s first Cantonese cafe talks to Robyn Or about being an entrepreneur in the 60s.
Tom Hilditch tom@fastmedia.com.hk
Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Shreena Patel shreena@fastmedia.com.hk Contributing Editor Callum Wiggins callum@fastmedia.com.hk Annie Wong annie@fastmedia.com.hk Carolynne Dear carolynne@fastmedia.com.hk Senior Staff Writer Eric Ho eric@fastmedia.com.hk
Design
Design Manager Cindy Suen cindy@fastmedia.com.hk Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@fastmedia.com.hk
Thanks to
Published by
Fast Media Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Illustration by Vasavi Seethepalli
Above: Yuen Hing Leung; Inset: a “no spitting” sign from the ‘60s.
We were the first Cantonese cafe in Wah Fu. We opened our doors for business in 1968, on the ground floor of Wah Kwong House. We were granted a flat above the cafe as a warehouse and dormitory for our staff. I remember there was also a pharmacy, a Shanghai-style salon and a bookstore. I named the place Silver Cafe because I literally wanted to create a silver city in Wah Fu Estate. At that time, Wah Fu Estate had been around for a year but the occupancy rate was low due to its proximity to unnamed cemetery and rumours of spirits of those who died during the Japanese occupation roaming the area. We weren’t afraid of it though. Wah Fu was the first public housing to be designed as a “new town”- with a school, restaurant, market, bank and public library. We thought it was a good opportunity. We open from 5:30am until 6pm.
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We used to close at 11pm after the dinner service, but we found that residents here prefer eating at home at night. In the 70s, we sold nearly 1,000 egg tarts daily. We hired three bakers - they would make egg tarts, pineapple buns and coconut buns in the middle of the night. We used to make birthday cakes too. Milk tea is our hero product. We mix three different types of tea leaves for a complex flavour.
Silver cafe is adored by a group of loyal customers. Each morning at dawn, a few regular elderly eaters wait outside our door holding newspapers. Mr Luk, Director of Queen’s Mary Hospital enjoys our rice vermicelli soup with shredded pork and preserved vegetables before handing to work. Celebrities like Eddie Cheung Siu Fai and Grasshopper have visited us too. Credit: Wah Fu Estate Historical Museum
Adele Brunner Belinda Bamford Dr Pauline Taylor Kate Davies Paul Zimmerman Robyn Or Tracey Read Vasavi Seethepalli
I am 85 years old. 10 years ago I was diagnosed with diabetes so my two daughters took over the business. I visit the cafe every Sunday afternoon from Kowloon to meet my old customers and help out with the food.
I was born and raised in Nanhai, Foshan. I am the youngest son among my siblings. Life was so hard when Wah Fu in the 1970s. the war broke out between
Image courtesy of Wah Fu Estate Historical Museum
tea and tarts
Wah Fu in the 1970s.
China and Japan. We had to study at home as school closed down. Food and materials were allocated according to the number of family members. Sweet potatoes, taros and vegetables were the main source of nutrition. Though my parents were running a sundry goods business, the war wiped out everything they had created. I’ve always been interested in business. I came to Hong Kong in 1962, following my elder brother. We thought there would be more
opportunities here. We lived in the resettlement area in Wong Tai Sin. To make a living, I stocked fresh fruit from fruit market in Yau Ma Tei and sold them on the street in Wong Tai Sin. Life as a hawker was easy. I could always sell all my fruit by the end of the day. Silver Cafe has not changed much in the last 50 years - we’ve tried to keep it as it was: high ceilings, old windows, ceiling fans and booth seating. We tried selling mocha and croissants
once, but the elderlies didn’t like them. For me, a sip of milk tea and egg tart is enough to bring back all the memories. Wah Fu Estate is under redevelopment. I am reluctant to lose this silver city, where we started from scratch and met so many nice people. I won’t consider myself as retired until the day we return the shop to the government.
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THE FREE CLINIC
Mala Uttam, Dr Mouellic and the CIS students who helped to launch the clinic.
A student-organised medical clinic is providing free healthcare to Hong Kong’s underprivileged. Shreena Patel reports. www.southside.hk ads@fastmedia.com.hk @southsidemag facebook.com/SouthsideMagazineHK
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Students from the Chinese International School (CIS) have set up a medical clinic in Hong Kong. The clinic aims to provide free, accessible and high-quality healthcare to the underprivileged and reduce the burden on the overcrowded local healthcare system. Launched in partnership with Dr Lauren Bramley & Partners and Stanley Wellness Centre, services offered include osteopathy, obstetrics and gynecology, general practice, paediatrics, acupuncture therapy and more. “Not only are we hoping to offer medical services to the underprivileged, we also view this as the perfect opportunity to raise awareness about the lack of sufficient and adequate healthcare for those in need in Hong Kong,” says Sabrina Chan, one of the 11 Year 12 CIS students who launched the project. Mala Uttam, Service and Action Coordinator at CIS, further explains,
“Although Accident and Emergency patients are seen quite quickly in the public healthcare system, there can be a long wait for preventative
We saw...elderly patients who hadn’t seen a doctor in over 20 years.
care and minor ailments due to the backlog of patients. For example, perhaps you’re a manual labourer with back pain but you can’t afford to take a day off to wait in line for a doctor. Even if you do, you might then have to wait up to 10 months to be seen by a specialist. A big
part of the clinic is helping to clear this backlog by treating easily fixable minor ailments and writing referral letters.” The idea for the clinic came about as a result of a conversation between Uttam and her doctor, Dr. Damien Mouellic, a practitioner at Stanley Wellness Centre and a partner at Dr. Lauren Bramley & Partners. “He told me he wanted to travel to Cambodia to do charity work, and I said he didn’t need to go abroad to help people without access to medical care - there is a local need in Hong Kong. Together with his fellow doctors and CIS students, we decided to do something about it.” The first session of the free clinic took place at Central and Stanley last November. In the run up to the event, the students reached out to local NGOs (Justice Centre, Mother’s Choice, HK Family Welfare Society, Christian Action and others), created and
all together now distributed medical information forms to reduce consultation times, built a schedule to balance need and availability and raised funds to cover the cost of medicines, food, and transport for the patients. On the day itself, they registered patients at the clinic and helped to translate. Of the 350 people who signed up, 130 were seen. “Every single practitioner was booked solid and managed to see between 13-15 patients each. We ran blood work and tests, wrote referral letters and prescribed necessary medication and supplements - all for free. PathLab generously offered to run all blood work and smears pro bono,” says Dr. Mouellic. “Thanks to so many people coming together to offer their time and services for free or at reduced rates, the cost of the entire clinic was just $4,300. In fact, the biggest single expense was the cost of the translators which came in at $2,000,” says Uttam. Patients ranged from newborns to the elderly, locals and refugees. “We saw a whole range of ailments. A refugee from Yemen, when asked how long he had been limping, answered 14-15 years. His wife surreptitiously asked me if there was any chance for her to also see an OBGYN as she had never had a pap smear done. We saw children who had been abused and had witnessed abuse. Women who had been gang raped and tortured. Elderly patients
who hadn’t seen a doctor in over 20 years,” says Uttam. Dr Lauren Bramley & Partners committed to follow up with ten percent of the worst cases pro bono. “For the doctors who had only worked in private health care, this was truly an eye opening and emotionally taxing experience. For the students, most of whom are interested in a career in medicine, this was a unique opportunity for them to learn by doing and put their dual-language education to use for a common good. I am incredibly proud of what they have achieved,” says Patients ranged from newborns, to the elderly and refugees. Uttam, who hopes the clinics will unite the medical community and others to The next clinic is scheduled for February help Hong Kong’s underprivileged alongside 18, 1-7pm at Stanley Wellness Clinic (G/F,120 the government system. “We’ve already been Stanley Main Street) and Dr. Lauren Bramley & approached by doctors in other practices, and Partners (Pacific House, 20-20B Queen’s Road Tsui Wah has agreed to sponsor the meals for Central). For more information, visit the patients at our second clinic. We’re also facebook.com/cisfreeclinic planning a third clinic focusing on vaccinations for children who fall between the gaps of the Got a local story? Have your say by emailing government welfare scheme.” editorial@fastmedia.com.hk
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Horizon Plaza:
shop ‘til you drop
the survival guide
Whether you’re there willingly or under duress, it’s important to be prepared. Read this guide for everything you need to know. By Shreena Patel.
H
orizon Plaza. Aladdin’s cave or nightmarish labyrinth? Either way, chances are you’ll make a trip to Ap Lei Chau’s renowned shopping centre at some point. Best known for furniture, home accessories and discounted fashion, Horizon Plaza also has food and wine merchants, kids’ stuff, pet supplies and even a piano showroom. It’s been a year since I was last there and a lot has changed. For a start, access has never been easier. The new South Island East MTR Line stops at South Horizons, less than a 10-minute walk away. The expectation of a growing customer base is no doubt a key factor behind the retail outlet’s revamped website and the 10 new store openings that have taken place over the last six months. With so much choice, you might not be sure where to start. Here are my top picks...
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Fashion and accessories Top
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Chloé
Handbags, shoes, clothes and jewellery at discounts of up to 60%. The collection isn’t vast but everything is neatly displayed and fans of the brand won’t have any trouble finding something they like. I found a pair of the popular Susanna studded ankle boots at just over $4,000 - not cheap by any means but 60% off the usual RRP. Open daily, 10am-7pm, 4/F.
Lane Crawford Warehouse
Top-end designer brands for men, women and kids, including Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang, Givenchy and Alexander McQueen, at discounts of up to 90%. If the sight of all the clothes rails is overwhelming, head straight to the shoe section - definitely the best part of the store. The women’s shoe racks are stacked full of last season Gianvito Rossi, Charlotte Olympia, Giuseppe Zanotti and more at knock down prices. Open daily, 10am-7pm, 2118 3403.
Kate Spade New York
Kate Spade’s crisp and colourful style is instantly recognisable and has taken the world by storm. This outlet opened last year and is sure to be a hit with women who want bright, stylish and fun accessories without breaking the bank. The main draw is of course the bags, but a small collection of clothes is also available. Open daily, 10am-7pm, 17/F, 2110 1594.
Ralph Lauren Factory Outlet
Organised, with small but well kept collections for men and women at discounts of up to 70%. Good for classics, like polo shirts for men and sweaters and silk shirts for women. The leather and suede items are particularly beautiful, though will usually set you back at least a couple of thousand dollars after discount. Open daily, 10am-7pm, 18/F, 2552 5343.
Max Mara
Max Mara’s well-crafted shoes, bags, clothes and accessories are all available here - including items from the Weekend, Sportmax and Max & Co. lines (the last is aimed at younger women). It’s worth sifting through the clearance to find a bargain, but the label’s iconic camel coats remain elusive. Just as well we live in a subtropical climate. Open daily, 10am-7pm, 27/F, 2722 9608.
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shop ‘til you drop Armani A big store, with super stylish and elegant men and women’s clothes, shoes and accessories. Prices vary widely. D-mop Outlet Edgier brands for men and women, including Maison Margiela, Dion Lee, Preen and Tibi. Don’t be put off by the seemingly high price tags - the discount may not yet have been applied to the price you see. Shiatzy Chen Fashion inspired by Chinese culture. Lots of silk, beading and embroidery. The Swank Outlet For men and women. Brands include Balmain, Roberto Cavalli, Bruno Cucinelli and Nina Ricci. Y-3 Warehouse Designer sports fashion.
Bluebell Fashion Warehouse Racks of shoes, clothes and accessories from Moschino, Anya Hindmarch and Carven. Catalog Branded fashion trainers. Fairton Labels Fashion Warehouse Brands include Kookai and 7 for all mankind. j.journey outlet For kids and adults. Stocks Repetto, UGGS, Cath Kidston and TEVA. Replay Denim and casual wear for men and women. Brooks Brothers Classic American style for men and women - did you know Brooks Brothers is the oldest men’s clothier in the United States? Ecco Comfort footwear. Galleria Italian wool and fur accessories. Pompei Warehouse Watches, bags and clothes for men and women. Appears expensive but we understand the store buys current season samples and overruns from designers including include Michael Kors, Burberry and Miu Miu. Ermenegildo Zegna Outlet Store Designer menswear and accessories. Max&Co. Warehouse Salvatore Ferragamo For men and women. The brand’s distinctive ties for men were priced at $750 (50% off) when I visited.
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Diesel Denim and casual wear for men and women. Hugo Boss Discounted clothes, shoes and accessories for men and women. Juicy Couture For women and girls. Velour tracksuits are in abundance. Marni Clothes, shoes and accessories with a quirky but feminine style. Moda Mia Outlet Loads of Vivienne Westwood, plus HUNTER for kids. S.T. Dupont Writing instruments, lighters and accessories handcrafted in France. Folli Follie Discounted jewellery, watches and bags
Etro Beautifully patterned clothes, scarves and accessories for men and women. Joyce Warehouse If you can bear the slightly musty smell, you’ll find fashion forward albeit past-season items from Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Emanuel Ungaro and Dries Van Outen and more at up to 80% off. Agnès b. Stock French womenswear and accessories at up to 50% off. Sidefame Outlet Up to 90% on past season merchandise from the group’s brands, including Anteprima, A.T by Atsuro Tayama, Cocktail, Henry Cuir and Marimekko. ImagineX Fashion Outlet Stocks Salvatore Ferragamo, Club Monaco, Alice and Olivia and Phillip Lim. Marc Jacobs Fashion and accessories. Paul Smith Fashion and accessories. Saint Laurent Clothes, shoes, bags and accessories for men and women. The discounted bags are the best bit of the store, but they’re not cheap. Expect to pay upwards of $9,000. Shanghai Tang Inspired by 1920s and ‘30s Chinese fashion. I.T outlet Discounted fashion from edgier labels including Comme des Garcons, plus streetwear brands from Japan.
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Home and interiors Tequila Kola
Be inspired by the bold designs and statement upholstery on display, from side tables inlaid with mother of pearl, to studded leather sofas, wooden valets and turkish light fittings. As well as its own collections, Tequila Kola stocks other brands including eico and Habitat paints and Designers Guild fabrics. You can buy straight from the floor or get items custom made. Furniture rental and wedding registry services are also available. Open 10am-7pm (Mon-Sat) and 11am-7pm (Sun & public holidays), 1/F, 2877 3295, tequilakola.com
HD Buttercup
Taking the place formerly occupied by Shambala, HD Buttercup hails from the US and its collection of furniture, floor coverings and accessories is all curated in Los Angeles. Shop a range of styles, from California coastal to luxe living, directly
TREE
Tree’s flagship store occupies the entire 28th floor and is packed with reclaimed and recycled timber furniture, colourful chairs and accessories. There’s a tailor-made service, cool kids range and vintage and modern styles to choose from. Best of all, there’s a lovely cafe and a play area for the kids - with a changing room and women’s toilet (men have to go one floor down to Level 27). The cafe serves drinks and food but is now take-away only. Retail therapy that makes you feel good? Yes, please. Open daily, 10:30am-7pm, 28/F, 2870 1582, www.tree.com.hk
from the floor - plus, items from select “manutailors”: Timothy Oulton and Sonder Living. Open daily, 10am-7:30pm (which is later than most stores in the building), including public holidays. 2/F, 2555 2997, facebook.com/HDButtercupHK
Top
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Organic Modernism
Inject a bit of Brooklyn style into your home with beautifully crafted cabinets, chairs and stools using solid woods and metals. If your budget won’t stretch to the larger items, the lighting collection is also fantastic, as are the accessories - there’s everything from art to jewellery, rugs and cushions (think organic linens, velvets and sheepswool). A firm favourite. Open 10:30am-6:30pm (Mon - Wed); 10am-7pm (Thu - Sun & public holidays), 8/F, 2556 9499, www.organicmodernism.com
Bowerbird Home
Classic and elegant home furnishings, with a touch of chinoiserie. Shop tables, chairs and ottomans as well as artificial flowers, vases, handpainted ceramics and textiles. Best of all is Bowerbird’s beautiful collection of blue and white porcelain. Open daily, 10am-6pm, 8/F, 2552 2727.
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cover story Lane Crawford Warehouse Small home accessories section with bedding, bath items and ornamental accessories. Shanghai Tang Outlet Chinese inspired homeware. ArturaFicus Mainly bespoke furniture. INSIDE Indoor and outdoor furnishings plus a little fashion for those who like a bright white aesthetic with pops of colour and variety of textiles. A mix of own-label products and international brands including Margo Selby, Ortigia, Sloane Stationery and others. Old Shanghai Ltd. Specialises in authentic Chinese wooden furniture constructed without the use of screws. Also produces its own sofas and solid wood furniture. You can customise pretty much everything. Wood Shop Limited Creative wooden furniture design) JMStyle Furniture & Gallery (specialises in designer pieces, tailor-made furniture, paintings and sculptures. Areahome Ltd Indoor furniture and decorative items. CAZ 1102 Made-to-order furniture. Euro M&D Sofas and dining table sets. Jacky Lamp & Wood Ltd The Red Cabinet Beautifully-finished one-of-a-kind pieces from China that will blend into a modern home. Plus bespoke kids’ furniture. Euro Sofa Mondo Sofas, obviously! Nook Living Italian furniture and home accessories. Also provides 2D and 3D modelling for those who want to style their homes. Don’t miss the massive red chandelier in the showroom - apparently they’ve already sold two. INDIGO Living Popular Hong Kong furniture and lifestyle store covering bed, bath, dining, living room areas - the outlet is on the 10th floor. Common Room Specialises in mid-century modern vintage furniture and accessories from the 1950s to ‘60s. All pieces originate from Europe and the US - some are in their original forms, others are refinished or reupholstered. Natuzzi Known for its Re-vive armchairs, plus sofas and beds that blend modern comfort and technology with Italian craftsmanship. NëstNördic.com Nordic style furniture, from dining chairs to sideboards, rugs and cushions. Roche Bobois High-end, contemporary furniture and accessories, including the iconic Mah Jong Sofa by Hans Hopfer (1971). Savoir Beds/The Luxury Bed Studio Handmade beds using the finest natural materials, from long curled Latin American horse tail to Mongolian cashmere and British lamb’s wool. Savoir Beds were first commissioned for The Savoy hotel in London in 1905. Be warned: this type of luxury does not come cheap. The full set of box spring, mattress and topper will set you back six figures.
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shop ‘til you drop ad lib Oriental antiques haven with cool chandeliers. Artek European vintage and antiques. Owned by the same people who own ad lib. Okooko Mattress and bed specialist. Le Carpet Studio Custom made carpets and rugs. CarpetBuyer Rug Warehouse A vast array of designer contemporary rugs, antique persians, soft and silky shaggys and more at up to 50% off. Washing and repair services also available.
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Oriental Home Chinese, Mongolian and Tibetan antiques. Custom-made, interior consultancy and restoration and repair services available. OVOstudio Features designer brands including Kenneth Cobonpue, Ethnicraft and Andreu World, as well as its own eco-friendly furniture collections, made with reclaimed wood. Fink - The Art of Living Lots of artificial flowers, soft furnishings and decorative items - think candleholders, vases, frames, tableware and more. The Birdcage Lots of Chinese antique wooden furniture and accessories, restored to their former glory. HC28 East-meets-west living and dining room furniture with a modern look. Infurniti Homes Home furnishings from around the globe, from cushions to porcelain and wooden crafts. Moving to the 12th floor at the end of March. Marc James Design Chairs, cushions and kitchenware. Good Laque Gifts Gallery An array of lacquer wares, from tissue box holders to trays. Phoenix Curtains Howe Mostly wooden furniture but currently closed. Tim Ho Custom-made furniture using stainless steel, natural wood and tempered glass. Also a collection of ornamental objects, from sleek teapots to horse figurines and model cars. Shop ORION Carpets. Aluminium Packed full of quirky modern chairs and lighting. Mainly European brands, including Vitra, Herman Miller, Kartell and more. Indigo Living discount outlet Stylish and eclectic furniture and home accessories at discounts of up to 50% off. Made Solid wood furniture with a contemporary look. A custom-made service is also available, as well as a free home styling consultation. Style50s Home DĂŠcor Retro furniture from Thailand, plus accessories. The custom-made service takes around 60 days. Attitude Sofa & Curtain Tailor MOD European Home Furniture Furniture and home accessories imported from Europe. OVO Home Asian inspired furniture and home accessories.
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Other stores OUTDOOR &ACCESSORIES
26/F ZZUE Creation Outdoor stuff, from pool side furniture to BBQs, shading products and party-sized pergolas. 16/F Patio Mart Outdoor furniture and fixtures. 12/F Irony Home Outdoor furniture constructed largely out of teak, wicker and stainless steel. Sun Garden 9/F Barbecue In All Amelie Barbecues and related gear. Everything under the sun Stocks a range of outdoor furniture brands, including: Gloster, Tribù, Cane-line, Tuuci, Extremis, Oasiq, Maiori, SunWeave, Fermob, Cadac and Renson. 8/F Harbour Outdoor This place will make you want outdoor furniture, even if you don’t have a garden. All the furniture is handcrafted by the Condos family in their Sydney workshop. Think natural, clean and simple, with lots of white. 7/F Garden Gallery Everything from outdoor candles, furniture and lighting to insect repellent, fountains, storage sheds, tents, parasols, mist coolers, torches and barbecues… imported from Europe.
KIDS’ STUFF
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PETS 10/F Whiskers N Paws Mammoth pet supply store. Plus, for those thinking about getting a pet, every Sunday from 2-5pm is Puppy Adoption Day (run in conjunction with Hong Kong Dog Rescue). Every third Sunday of every month (1-4pm) is Cat & Kitten Adoption Day (run in conjunction with animal charity Kirsten’s Zo. Head over to speak to some experienced cat and dog aficionados, connect with other pet owners and play with the animals.
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MUSIC Piano One Two Co., Ltd. 7/F Has been buying, selling, renting out and restoring pianos for 20 years.
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21/F Bumps to Babes Baby megastore, from strollers to maternity gear and toys. Pollux Books Books, gifts and toys. 20/F PAIDI Kidsworld Eco-friendly, ergonomic children’s furniture and beds from Germany in fun designs, from princess-style cots to jungle-themed bunk beds. 19/F mothercare & early learning centre A fairly small store, but with car seats, bath stuff, clothes and shoes. Nerd Kids for living Known for their desks that grow with kids. Also toys, games, gifts and back-to-school stuff. Toys Club Packed to the brim with hula hoops, balls, skateboards, dolls - a kid’s paradise. 11/F FLEXA This Danish brand provides eco-friendly kids furniture which can be mixed and matched to suit children’s needs as they grow. 6/F INDIGO Kids Modern furniture, accessories and toys for kids.
FOOD & DRINK 22/F Sift Patisserie Perfect for a quick cupcake pitstop. 16/F Boutique Wines A collection of wines and champagnes from Australia, France, Italy, New Zealand and South Africa. Free tastings at weekends. 12/F Limestone Wines Wines from Australia, New Zealand, France, Italy and rare Scotch Whiskies. Pacific Gourmet Pick up some fresh fish or meat to cook for dinner. 10/F Coffee Plus Another pitstop - over halfway there! Pet friendly, with savouries and desserts. 1/F Pacific Coffee @ Tequila Kola Round off the day with a quick coffee while you deliberate that final purchase, before heading home.
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Top tips!
Many an unwitting expat has ventured into Horizon Plaza unprepared, only to be found three hours later wandering the corridors lost and confused, under the weight of a recently purchased coffee table. Make sure you’re not that person with our handy guide...
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Give yourself plenty of time - there are no quick trips to Horizon Plaza.
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Bearing in mind the previous point, don’t take the kids.
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Take the stairs to avoid lengthy waits. There are two lifts - one services odd floors, the other even. If you’ve got big items, take the service lifts.
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There is no 13th, 14th, 23rd or 24th floor. Don’t try to find them.
For those taking the stairs, the shops on the 21st floor are currently only accessible via stairwells S1 and S2.
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Don’t buy your heavy furniture until the end. Also - many of the stores will offer delivery services. If you want to take your item home that day, ask them to wrap it for you and take it down to the taxi stand when you’re ready to leave.
Try to avoid weekends.
Take the MTR - the closest station is South Horizons (Exit A) - it’s a 10-minute walk from there. If you’ve got a lot of stuff, there’s a taxi stand right outside the entrance.
Pick up a shopping guide from the lobby on arrival - it’s invaluable.
Plan your route based on the shops you want to visit. Start at the highest floor and make your way down.
Plan a few pit stops along the way for coffee, a snack and to keep you sane.
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Check in-store for discounts on multiple purchases. Many stores will give an additional discount when you buy two or more items.
Head to the stairwell when nature calls. Toilets alternate between men’s and women’s on each floor. Baby change tables are located at the disabled toilets (dotted around the building, including on the 25th floor). There is a baby care and feeding room on the ground floor. If you find the toilet is locked, ask for a key from one of the stores.
2 FREE Those who drive can enjoy up to three hours free parking on weekdays (one hour at weekends) when they spend. Redeem your free parking at the Shroff Office (3/F). For details, see the Horizon Plaza store guide.
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Fashionistas should check out the nearby Prada/Miu Miu outlet at Marina Square East Building (South Horizons MTR Station Exit A), just a 10-minute walk from Horizon Plaza.
Horizon Plaza 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, 2554 9089 www.horizonplazahk.com
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home & living
The boxes in the back garden double up as lighting and seating.
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where the heart is
Home Improvement How do you bring people closer together through design? Shreena Patel visits a home in Pok Fu Lam to find out.
“Good design is not just for the privileged,” say Dicky Cheung and Elaine Wong. “It should be for everyone.” Cheung and Wong work at Sensearchitects, an integrated interior design and architecture firm based in Kowloon Tong. The team at Sensearchitects is small and collaborative, united by a clear vision of what they are trying to achieve. “Our designs encourage interaction and communication, while embracing the natural environment,” says Cheung. “Three things are paramount. Firstly, functionality - which comes before aesthetics. Secondly, research - we are always looking to push the boundaries of what good designs can achieve. Finally, experimentation - we regularly try out new materials and techniques in our office. For example, before using a certain type of wood and surface finish for a dining table, we will perform all sorts of stain tests to check its durability,” says Cheung. The ground floor was made open plan to bring in natural light.
Good design is not just for the privileged.
As well as commercial projects, the company has started to take on more pro bono work, including the renovation of a centre for the elderly in Sai Kung. “It’s nothing big, but we focus on getting basic things right. The aim of the renovation is to improve the centre’s ability to serve elderly people in the area, especially those with mobility issues,” says Wong. One of the team’s recently completed residential projects a terraced house in Pok Fu Lam. “Before starting any project, we talk to the clients and find out about their lifestyles and needs. For example, in the case of two people sharing a house, one person might come home late regularly and not want to disturb the other. Everyone is different and we tailor the design to the client’s story.” Cheung and Wong tell me the principal aim at the Pok Fu Lam house was to foster communication within the family and cater for multiple generations.
Flexibility in design: the living room also contains a small area for food preparation.
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home & living The first floor (garden, living room, dining room and kitchen) is open plan. When the front and back doors are open, it’s possible to walk straight through from the front garden to the back garden. “Originally, there was an enclosed kitchen and toilet in the middle of the space, blocking the way,” says Cheung. “It was dark and we wanted to bring in natural light from both sides to brighten the space. We always use natural resources as much as possible before considering other options.” The open-plan design encourages people to interact, despite being in different rooms. “For example, mum can chat to people in the dining room while she’s cooking in the kitchen,” says Cheung. The team even took the trouble of flipping the staircase to allow people on the ground floor to see who is going upstairs or downstairs. “Communication is not just verbal, but also visual,” says Wong.
Communication is not just verbal, but also visual.
The flexibility of the design is noticeable. For example, the living room contains a small area for food preparation so, for example, if a family member fancies a late night snack but wants to stay watching TV with everyone else, he or she can prepare something in the same room. “Flexibility in design encourages people to interact and this creates memories,” says Cheung. The overall feel is minimalistic, but everything that’s here has been carefully considered. The breakfast area has a raised ceiling and faces the garden, encouraging people to look out and providing enough natural light to ensure that the artificial lights don’t have to be turned on in the morning. The back doors are made of sheer glass panels, ensuring privacy while allowing outside light to filter through. “We’ve managed to bring a little of the outside in: though you can’t see the greenery with the doors closed, you can still see the shadows,” says Wong. he same stone flooring is used in the breakfast area and the garden, blurring the boundary between the inside of the house and the outside, but the stone in the garden has a non-slip finish - important for Hong Kong’s rainy days. The outdoor herb garden is another attempt to create memories by engaging the senses. “For example, when family’s little boy is playing in the garden, his shirt might brush against the sage or the rosemary - that smell
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The breakfast area transitions smoothly into the garden, with a stone floor and vaulted ceiling.
The staircase was flipped to improve visual communication.
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home & living TOP TIPS Be honest about what you really want and need - with yourselves and your designer. Be a perfectionist - if there is one thing you don’t like about a product or material, no matter how small, don’t buy it. Endure until you find exactly the right thing. Don’t buy something with the idea of throwing it away - think about whether it really fits your needs. Think about small habits, from where to hang your laundry, to where to put your ironing board. Start with these first and then move on to the larger things.
The curved wall conceals drainage pipes.
will implant as a memory so that even years later, whenever he smells sage or rosemary he will remember his old house,” explains Cheung. Meanwhile on the first floor, an interconnecting door between the two bedrooms allows the parents to have their own private sleeping area, while still allowing easy access to their toddler’s room. With time, as both parents and child desire more privacy, the door (which locks on both sides) can be kept shut. The child’s bedroom also has a raised floor so that when playing with adults, they can be at the same eye level, promoting better communication. The windows in the master bedroom are constructed of large glass panels, providing unobstructed views of the outside greenery. Looking out from this semi-outdoor space, it’s almost as if you were standing on one of Hong Kong’s old verandahs. “We love the old-style buildings of Hong Kong with their verandahs, but they were killed off a long time ago by legislation. This is our version. Hong Kong legislation imposes a lot of constraints on architecture and design but we try not to let it limit us,” explains Cheung. Like any project, the design of the house was not without its setbacks. “In the last stages of the project, the client wanted to change the route of the drainage pipes,” says Wong. “This affected a lot of the design, but ultimately we found a way of embracing it. The curved wall you see in the kitchen isn’t just there to look nice - it actually conceals the pipes. We made the mould using a 3D printer.” Including an open kitchen on the ground floor was also more complicated than just knocking a few walls down. “We had to apply for government permission as well as upgrading the fire
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protection with an alarm and sprinklers,” says Cheung. So, is there anything they would do differently now? “My only change would be the plants in the back garden,” admits Wong. “I would have liked to have been a bit more creative with them. Plants have a large impact on the overall landscape design but you always see the same plants in Hong Kong - it’s hard to get a good variety from suppliers.” As for whether it was all worth it, “the hardest thing about designing a space is balancing time, budget and craftsmanship. Traditional craftsmanship is rarer these days, people are less patient and cost differences can
take time to explain: two things might look the same but one might function much better than the other. It’s a matter of communication.” says Cheung. “But creating spaces that make people happy and improve family interaction gives architecture meaning and pushes us to be even more creative.” Sensearchitects provides services from architecture, interior design and furniture to event design and more. To contact them, email info@sensearchitects.com. 157 Waterloo Road, Kowloon Tong, www.sensearchitects.com, 2816 3916.
The large windows in the bedroom were inspired by Hong Kong’s old-style verandahs. The curtain on the left conceals a door to another bedroom.
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education
KELLETT SCHOOL: ROOTED IN HONG KONG, ESSENTIALLY BRITISH Kate Davies visits the Kowloon Bay campus.
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open day
O
n November 5 2016, Hong Kong’s Kellett School broke a Guinness Book of Records title. 1325 students, parents, alumni and friends gathered on the school’s Sky Pitch rooftop dressed in red to form what would be crowned the largest human image of a boat. Reminiscent of a mini Aqua Luna, it was a homage to the city in which the school was established and has since blossomed. The image struck me as particularly fitting for an institution firmly entrenched in and committed to respecting the richness of Hong Kong life, while offering the city’s Englishspeaking children a highly valued British education from a not-for-profit, independent establishment. Principal Ann McDonald is an expatriate herself. Hailing from Gloucestershire in the U.K., she came to Hong Kong for work in the late seventies and after a stint at home she returned to Hong Kong to take up her role at Kellett in 1996. She has been with the school now for some 20 years, “It’s such a privilege leading this school I tell you. I think it’s a special community. I’m biased of course.” During that time she has seen some major developments: the refurbishment of the original Pok Fu Lam site, the conception and realization of the
now 4-year-old Kowloon Bay campus and the addition of a senior school to Kellett in 2007. For all of these she and the school worked closely with the board, “All the board are parents which is very unusual. For some people, a parent board is quite daunting but for some reason there’s magic dust on the Kellett model.” I meet Principal McDonald in her office in a quiet corner of the school where she explains that the basis of the curriculum here is that a child should be able to enter from or leave to either a British or British international school without stagger. Reception (or pre-primary) begins in the academic year that a child turns 4 while preparatory begins at 5 years old. Both the preparatory and the senior school follow the English National Curriculum. In senior school a child enters in the September of the academic year they turn 11 and graduates after completing A-levels. Currently they offer around 17 A-levels plus a home language program and an extended essay. There have been just two years to graduate A-levels at Kellett so far, seeing some students go on to places in high ranking universities in Britain and beyond. “In our very first year of graduates, one of our girls got a place at Girton College at Cambridge.” Principal McDonald tells me, clearly beaming with pride. This is made even more special she explains because Girton College is synonymous with pioneering women’s education, and sex aside, the symbolism of a graduate from their inaugural graduating year being accepted by a historically progressive educational institute is not lost on her. Principal McDonald’s heart is undoubtedly entwined with the success of the school and the children of all ages. She tells me that the most exciting thing about working at Kellett is working with kids
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education from 4-years-old, all the way to 18. Teaching is at the heart of good schools she explains to me and teaching styles at the school are “consistent and consistently high quality”, with a view to sending off graduates with the skills to learn independently. Principal McDonald calls it “scaffolding our students to independence”, and admits that is going to look very different at 7-years-old to 12-years-old to 17. They encourage students to compete against themselves, “We talk about personal journeys and Kellett is very much based on ‘personal bests’”. Class sizes generally consist of about 23 students but as the kids grow older the numbers change and some A-level classes can be as small as 4 students depending on the subject. Students requiring learning support are also well taken care of with individualized programs. The campuses are another aspect of the school that Principal McDonald is visibly proud of. The Pok Fu Lam campus was built in the 80’s and sits between Kellett Bay and Mt Kellett has undergone huge refurbishment and has access to almost all of the facilities that the Kowloon Bay campus does, bar the swimming pool and the Sky Pitch, but uses nearby facilities to supplement these. It houses preparatory students and is “a tardis” I’m told; while it looks tiny on the outside, there’s
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enormous space inside. The Kowloon Bay campus however is big, outside and in. Unlike its counterpart, it is not surrounded by green but rather sits on an entire block, smack-bang in the bustling commercial district of Kowloon Bay. Principal McDonald tells me they were presented with many traditional ‘L’ shaped models at the design stage but they were finally approached by a local architect who, after first presenting an ‘L’ shape building design, eventually suggested they go with a different approach. “Light, bright and open,” she says were the goals as these features promote quality learning, allow children to feel safe and creates a more spacious feeling environment. Skylights, windows and glass are in abundance while the two atriums can be walked around and looked down on by people on higher floors. The classrooms, library, multi-purpose Sky Pitch, theatre, gym and pool are all state-of-the-art and while they can be selfsufficient, there are outside sports facilities nearby if they need.
The available facilities are especially important given the emphasis on clubs and extracurricular activities. Principal McDonald tells me there are more than 100 student clubs across an array of sports from rugby to cricket to sailing and horse-riding among others, not to mention music and the arts. She adds that they have a lot of students representing Hong Kong in a lot of sport as well. These extra-curricular activities for her are especially important, “If students are doing heavy academic programs it gives them a release and makes them well rounded people.”
open day
School Report
This is underlined by telling me that P.E. is mandatory in 6th form, further highlighting the point that a balance between health, academia and creativity is highly valued here. As I leave the Kowloon Bay campus I see the topline of the school’s mission statement emblazoned in large red letters: ‘A love of learning and confidence for life’. It appears to be a parting reminder to all those leaving of what Kellett school represents and what they want you to take with you when you go. While Principal McDonald tells me that
even at 40 years old they are “just a baby” in comparison to some other long standing international schools, they believe they are the oldest independent British school in Hong Kong. “We see ourselves as a stakeholder in Hong Kong. We’ve been through the ups and downs in Hong Kong, lots of them, and we still continue to thrive.” Readers' Choice Awards 2017
Established: 1976 Class size: 23 Curriculum: English National Curriculum to I/GCSEs & A-levels Fees 2016/2017: Prep: $150,000; Senior (Y7-11): $187,000; Sixth Form (Y12-13): $192,500 Non-refundable capital levy: $20,000 ($40,000 for Year 12 & 13; if no debenture) Address: Pok Fu Lam Preparatory: 2 Wah Lok Path, Wah Fu, Pok Fu Lam; Kowloon Bay Preparatory & Senior: 7 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay Tel: 3120 0700
Got a favourite kindergarten or preschool? Tell us by voting in our Readers’ Choice Awards. Vote now at www.southside.hk
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eating
COMFORT FOOD Hearty eats for the winter season. By Shreena Patel and Kate Springer. Catalunya
Sole Mio
Tucked away on a quiet street in Wan Chai, Catalunya feels like a secret, despite being one of Hong Kong’s most well known Spanish restaurants. The restaurant itself is beautiful, furnished in mahogany and deep red hues with a few gothic touches.The menu includes a huge range of tapas, as well as meat, seafood and rice dishes, but the speciality here is the traditional suckling pig - definite comfort food. If you want more variety, opt for the Winter Tasting menu which features the suckling pig and mango tatin, plus six other dishes, including oysters with champagne foam and ponzu, parmesan cheese ice cream, and Alaskan King Crab bouillabaisse soup. Available until March, priced at $788 per person. A wine pairing option is also available for an additional $550.
This casual eatery has been serving hearty Italian cuisine for over 15 years. Located on Elgin Street, the restaurant offers a comfortable dining experience with its warm wooden interior and spacious seating. Guests can indulge in wholesome pizzas, pastas and antipasti on the a la carte menu or select from their two- or
G/F, Guardian House, Morrison Hill, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wan Chai. 2866 7900, www.catalunya.hk
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three- course set menus. The little ones don’t miss out either with a kids’ menu where they can choose from a pizza or pasta, drink and dessert. UG/F, 51 Elgin Street, Central, 2530 0422, solemio.com.hk
bon appétit! Saravana Bhavan One of the largest vegetarian restaurant chains in the world, though don’t let that put you off. The menu here is packed full of delicious South Indian dishes, but the best thing without a doubt is the masala dosa. Go easy on the ordering, portions are large. 4/F Ashley Cenre, 23-25 Ashley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2736 1127, www.saravanabhavan.com
Westwood Carvery Specialising in prime rib, Westwood Carvery serves up hearty American food (and Americansized portions) in a cosy setting. It’s run by husband-and-wife team Gloria Chih and Nick Siu (she runs the restaurant, he’s the head chef) who, before moving to Hong Kong, lived in sunny California for 20 years. Favourites include the signature USDA slow cooked prime rib, beef short rib and the baby back pork ribs – the meatiest ribs we’ve ever eaten. The steamed US blue mussels with white wine and cream sauce aren’t yet a house speciality but are
definitely worth trying. There are also salads, pastas, soups and sandwiches for those feeling less carnivorous. Note, there is a minimum food and drink charge of $400 per person for dinner on Thursday to Saturday, Public Holiday eves and holidays. G/F, 2 Wo On Lane, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2869 8111, www.westwoodcarvery.com
Chautari Ever tried to find a good curry in Hong Kong? It’s harder than you might think. This Indian restaurant has a loyal group of customers for very good reason. The Chautari Brothers are Nepalese by descent but spent 10 years cooking in Delhi and make one of the meanest butter chicken and garlic naans in town. 1/F, CF6, Cooked Food Market, 1 Queen’s Road, Sheung Wan, 2600 4408, www.chautari.com.hk
Beef & Liberty Burgers, check. Craft beer, check. Crispy chicken wings, check. At first you might assume that Beef & Liberty (B&L) is an American concept, but it actually takes its inspiration from the beefsteak clubs of old London town. The team prides itself on its dedication to beef, only sourcing its grass-fed Angus meat from small-scale farmers in Tasmania. There are several twists on the classic burger, including everything from beetroot and kidney beans to the Notorious P.I.G, made with slow-braised pork and green apple slaw. Order your burger with a side of chili cheese fries and you’re good to go. And don’t forget to leave room for dessert: we love the warm skillet cookie with
fresh cream poured over at the table (tip: don’t say when too early). Residents of Stanley can get their food delivered home. The B&L team has also just launched brunch at its Lan Kwai Fong (LKF) & Stanley restaurants, with six new a la carte dishes, including a Mac N’ Cheese Sandwich, Beans & Liberty, Avocado & Ricotta toast and more. Add $178 for a two-hour free-flow option with beer, prosecco, bloody mary & wine. Available weekends at LKF (11am-3pm) & Stanley (9am-3pm). G/F, 23 Carmel Road, Stanley Plaza, Stanley, 2563 2798, www.beef-liberty.com
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eating Samsen Launched last year by Adam Cliff, (former head chef at Chachawan) and his wife, Samsen is focused on one thing in particular: noodles. That’s not to say diners can’t enjoy other dishes (the menu contains a selection of other wok fried dishes, snacks, drinks and sweets) - but the noodles are delicious. If you’re just ordering one dish, make it the Wagyu Beef Boat Noodle, served in a rich broth with crispy pork rinds what could be more comforting? “For me, Thai food shines best when prepared with minimal pomp, like the traditional soup noodle and street eats found at any time all over the streets of Bangkok”, says Chef Adam. We couldn’t agree more. 68 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, 2234 0001. No reservations (35 seats).
The Butchers Club The Butchers Club Burger is now a household name, with locations in Quarry Bay, Central and TST. The original spot on Landale Street in Wan Chai sports an open-air atmosphere, industrial vibes, a huge grill. There’s only one type of sandwich on the menu: juicy bacon cheeseburgers. Made with dry-aged Black Angus beef, go all out and enjoy one with a side of duck fat fries and a root beer float. For The Butchers Club grub in a more private setting, try The Butchers Club Private Kitchen in Wong Chuk Hang, where groups of up to 16 people can enjoy the signature Big Beef Experience menu: fresh seafood, followed by mussels and chorizo, roasted bone marrow and homemade bread. The main event is of course the custom dry-aged steak (aged in house).
Things are finally rounded off with homemade dessert and a cheese board. $1,000 per person plus $450/kg for beef. Includes a magnum of champagne and a parting gift (minimum of 10 people). The Butchers Club Burger (2528 2083); The Butchers Club Private Kitchen: 13/F, Unit C, Sun Ying Industrial Centre, 9 Tin Wan Close, Tin Wan, Aberdeen (2552 8281), thebutchers.club
Meen & Rice Part of the JIA Group - which also includes Duddell’s, 208 Duecento Otto, Ham & Sherry and 22 Ships - Meen & Rice brings Cantonese comfort food to the lucky folks in Repulse Bay. Located right on the beach, the open-air restaurant sports great views to go along with its old-meets-new aesthetic: picture Cantonese strainers hang from the ceiling, contemporary furniture and vintage-style crockery. Modeled after local noodle shops, Meen & Rice serves up all kinds of homestyle rice noodles, fish balls, roast goose, pork knuckle, shrimp wontons, fried rice, barbecue and congee with doughnuts. Delivery available. The Pulse, Shop 113, 1/F, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, 2566 8886; www.meenandrice.com
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bon appétit! Roundhouse – BBQ + Beer This little taphouse on the steep end of Peel Street specializes in craft beer, obviously, as well as Texas-style barbecue. The no-frills food hits the spot if you’re craving a taste of the south — think pulled pork, beef brisket, pork ribs, homemade sausages, and a beef short rib made with US prime beef that’s been smoked for six hours. The Roundhouse team’s second location, The Roundhouse - Chicken + Beer (Amoy Street, Wan Chai) is similarly selfexplanatory. The Roundhouse - BBQ + Beer: 62 Peel Street, Central, 2366 4880, roundhouse.com.hk Roundhouse - Chicken + Beer: G/F, 29 Amoy Street, Wan Chai, 2866 3330, www.roundhouse.com.hk
Rhoda Another hit-restaurant from the prolific Yenn Wong...this time, in collaboration with chef Nate Green. Watch the chefs work their magic in the open kitchen while you tuck into dishes like ragout of wild Hereford short rib with fresh tagiatelle (packed with flavour) and terrine of Mangalica pork shoulder and head with strawberry chutney (rich, tasty and melts in the mouth). We also recommend the delicate but delicious raw Hokkaido scallops with spiced mango chutney. Larger dishes like the roast chicken with a spring onion and ginger dressing are perfect for sharing. For smaller dishes, we advise four
between two. Save room for dessert: the vanilla cheesecake is delectable. G/F, Upton, 345 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun, 2177 5050, www.rhoda.hk
The Parish Feast on Cajun and Creole cooking from Enoteca group executive chef Eric Percy. All the Southern specialities are here, from cheddar biscuits to fried chicken and jumbo prawn and chicken jambalaya. Regular patrons will be excited to hear that a new menu launches this month, including Shrimp Creole (with big, fat, juicy shrimps), New Orleans comfort favourite Red beans Tasso n’ rice and a cornbread loaf made with smoked jalapenos and honey butter. Desserts are perfect for sharing - the key lime pie is a winner. To celebrate Mardis Gras, The Parish has a special four-course set menu available from February 28 - March 4, and - of course - lots of beads, masks, cocktails and loud NOLA music. $298 per person, but find the lucky bean in your dessert and your meal is free. G/F, 44 Staunton Street Soho, Central, 2803 0050, www.enotecagroup.com/parish
Readers' Choice Awards 2017
Got a favourite restaurant or dish? Tell us by voting in our Readers’ Choice Awards. Vote now at www.southside.hk
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eating
NIBBLES News from the dining scene.
Secret Ingredient’s Valentine’s Day menu Want to stay at home and cook this year? Order Secret Ingredient’s stay-at-home set menu where ingredients are delivered to your door, prepped and chopped. The surf-and-turf menu ($500 for two) includes three courses starting with a salad, followed by pan-seared filet mignon and finishing with a chocolate dessert. Pre order before February 10. www.secretingredient.com.hk
Valentine’s pizza If food-themed romantic gestures are more your thing, Motorino’s heart-shaped pizzas might be the ticket. All of Motorino’s authentic Neapolitan pizzas can be heart-shaped upon request, whether you’re eating in or taking away. While we don’t recommend this to be your only romantic gesture come February 14, a cheese-loaded vessel of love is a good place to start. Available from February 11-17. 14 Shelley Street, Central, www.motorinopizza.com, 2520 0690.
Picnic in the park Treat your loved one to a picnic in the park with Valentine’s Day hamper from Invisible Kitchen. Choose from the Tickled Pink Picnic Hamper ($1,350), Bubbles & Brownies ($725),
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Red Wine & Brownies ($350) and Prosecco, Macarons, Choc & Love ($318). Delivery charges vary depending on location and size. Available until April 30. Order by calling 2711 5788 or email office@invisiblekitchen.com
For chocoholics Raw chocolate bar maker Raiz The Bar has released a special ‘With Love’ Gift Box ($288) for Valentine’s Day. The gift box includes four flavours; Authentic Me (classic original), Cherish Me (sour cherry chilli), Renew Me (wild blueberry lavender) and Passionate Me (raspberry rose acai). All chocolate bars are organic-, vegan-, paleofriendly and free of
refined sugar, dairy, gluten, soy, peanuts, tree nuts, GMO and fillers. Available to buy from www.raizthebar.com and at selected retailers.
Vive la romance! Love is in the air at A.O.C, the newly transformed casual French dining concept from the team behind Le Bistro Winebeast. Chef Stephane’s four-course Valentine’s Day dinner menu for two kicks off with French Fines de Claire No.3 Oysters, followed by Ravioli of Lobster, Griddle-Grilled Veal Rump and Fresh Raspberry dessert served with fresh lychee, meringue, rosewater and raspberry sorbet. $388 per person, available on February 11, 12 & 14. $100 extra per person for the wine pairing (four glasses). For reservations, call 2479 6833. 15 McGregor Street, www.facebook.com/aoceatanddrink
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big day out
PEARL HARBOUR Rory Mackay heads to Plover Cove Reservoir, Tolo Harbour and beyond.
I
f you fancy exploring a natural world that most folk don’t know about within Hong Kong, then a day trip to Plover Cove Reservoir might be in order. The area is easily accessible via public transport and totally worth the effort to reach. Nestled amongst rolling hills, it’s the gateway to the eastern expanses of Tolo Harbour and Double Haven. Begin the trail at Tai Mei Tuk and venture out
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into the wilds of northeastern Hong Kong to discover hidden gems. Once there, you certainly won’t be in a rush to leave. Getting to the start point can take a little time from Hong Kong Island, but it is a relatively hassle free trip. Take the MTR to Tai Po Market, then catch a bus (either the 20C minibus or 75K KMB bus) or grab a taxi for around $70 to Tai Mei Tuk. Before you shoot off, stop for a bite to eat and stock up on refreshments in Tai Mei Tuk, as there are no facilities out on the trail. Once refreshed and all set to go, make your way towards the water sports centre and continue up the small road until you reach the lake. Soon, you’ll be greeted by the sight of Plover Cove Reservoir’s dramatic two-kilometre dam wall. Plover Cove was the world’s first ‘at sea level’ freshwater reservoir, its construction began back in 1960 amid disputes with China over Hong Kong’s water supply. Walking the dam wall is usually a relaxing experience of solitude and tranquillity, as you gaze across the dazzling waters of Tolo Harbour. Tolo Harbour was the heart of Hong Kong’s once thriving pearl industry. It is understood that pearls were first collected here, as an imperial monopoly, as far back as the Tang Dynasty. The industry continued intermittently until the early stages of the Ming Dynasty, when
pearl of the orient
the imperial monopoly ended due to exhaustion of the beds. Gathering oysters from the seabed was dangerous and cost many lives. The pearl fisher was tied to a weighted rope, lowered from the boat into the sea and left there to collect oysters until the boatmen pulled him back up. During the mid-1950s, the Japanese invested in pearl farms in Tolo Harbour and Long Harbour, rearing various kinds of clams and sea snails. There were four pearl farms in total, located in Sham Chung, Lo Fu Wat, Ngau To Wan and Fu Long Wat. On a weekday or public holiday, the promenade is abuzz with folk enjoying the outdoors in various ways, be it windsurfing and kitesurfing out on the water, or casting a line from shore in the hope of landing a fish. Watch out for manic cyclists and kite flyers too! Once at the far end of the dam wall you will arrive at a small island in the middle of the harbour. Turn left and continue through the gate. Now you can leave the cyclists and most others behind and venture into the heart of the route. Keep the calm turquoise waters of the reservoir on your left and the darker more rugged seas on your right, as you follow the twisting and turning road around scenic nooks before traversing a few smaller concrete dams. After this the hiking trail begins in earnest, rising and dropping many times over small hills, each one more dramatic than the last. It’s up to you how far you wish to venture before turning back. For intrepid types who wish to do the entire circuit around Plover Cove Reservoir or venture
A stunning sunset over the reservoir.
towards Double Haven, the trail over the hills to Wu Kau Tang or Double Haven is fulfilling but requires a full day of hiking. The approaching winter months lend themselves to undertaking such distances, but make sure you are thoroughly prepared. I recommend beginning at Wu Kau Tang instead of Tai Mei Tuk. An infrequent but reliable minibus service (20R) runs there from Tai Po Market MTR. This way, if you are circumnavigating the lake, it is nice to finish at Tai Mei Tuk where there are plenty of amenities and transport options. Overall, this is an adventure for all. A safe and pleasant excursion catering to the needs Readers' Choice Awards 2017
of families, yet one that is engaging and flexible enough to challenge the most intrepid outdoor adventurers in Hong Kong. These approaching winter months are ideal for such activities, so what are you waiting for? Get out and explore the open spaces in this stunning part of the territory. Rory Mackay runs adventure company Wild Hong Kong. For details, visit www.wildhongkong.com
Got a favourite hike or outdoor activity? Tell us by voting in our Readers’ Choice Awards. Vote now at www.southside.hk
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Image courtesy of Blueflower Travel
travel
Bespoke travel
Annapurna base camp, Nepal.
Just like a custom-tailored suit, a bespoke holiday is designed to be a better fit. Shreena Patel finds out more.
M
ost of us buy our clothes off the rack, and while they might fit us fine, a custom-tailored suit or dress fits better. The same goes for travel. Whether you want to dine in the best local restaurants or satisfy your personal interests from taphophilia (an enthusiasm for cemeteries) to diving, there are people who can make it happen. One of those people is Eldi Lau, Lifestyle Travel Sales Manager at Quintessentially Travel. “Our saying is: ‘The answer is yes. Now what’s the question?’”, says Lau. “Among our more unusual requests, we’ve arranged a private viewing and tour of the Taj Mahal, a Sydney Harbour island dinner with a private Sydney Symphony Orchestra recital and a private banquet on The Great Wall of China. We’ve even booked an entire island.” But grandiose requests aren’t the only reason to go bespoke. Booking a customtailored holiday could save you time and effort, enrich your experience and ensure your stress levels remain low throughout your trip.
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Saving time and effort...and relationships Picture the scene. You’ve just spent hours staring at a laptop screen, combing through booking websites and online reviews to plan an upcoming trip. You present the fruits of your labour to your travel companion who swiftly remarks, “Hmmm I’m not sure...maybe we should keep looking.” Cue frayed tempers and last-minute searching for an alternative, before settling for something similar but more expensive because everything is now fully booked. Sound familiar? “There’s an overwhelming amount of choice available at the touch of a button,” says Lau. “Our clients appreciate having a personal, dedicated travel specialist who can cut through the noise and offer a carefully considered itinerary, tailor-made for them. This need for time-saving, high-quality guidance is why bespoke travel is becoming more popular and we’ll see a lot more growth in above-and-beyond services like these.”
Founder, Blueflower Travel Best travel experience: Engaging with lions on foot in Zimbabwe. Worst travel experience: Being stranded for three days in a Nepali airport, unable to reach the wondrous Himalayas. Favourite travel book: Old Beasts, Men and Gods by Ferdinand Ossendowski (1924). Where would you like to go next on holiday? To experience a world class conservation initiative for gorillas in Rwanda. “I never travel without…” My Bose QuietComfort 25 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones.
Andrea Os
chetti
tailor made Enriching your experience
Image courtesy of Blueflower Travel
Besides, saving you time, bespoke travel specialists claim to have access to in-depth knowledge, local connections and expertise to help you plan a much more fulfilling trip. “Planning is an important part of the travel experience. It allows us to travel with our imagination,” says Andrea Oschetti, former travel journalist, chef and founder of Blueflower Travel, a bespoke travel company launched in Hong Kong last year. “Alas, it’s often the opposite. With a full time job and a family, we lack the time to make sure we get the most out of holidays. Without connections and lots of research, travellers miss the most powerful experiences. At Blueflower, we work hard to take away the complexity of planning an elaborate trip. But we are not just another travel agent; we act as travel mentors.”
Hiking to Tiger Nest Monastery or Taktsang Lhakhang - Bhutan.
Planning...allows us to travel with our imagination.
The first step in planning a holiday with Blueflower is to meet your dedicated “travel mentor”. Clients are invited to Blueflower’s 2,500 sq.ft. travel salon in Wong Chuk Hang - also Oschetti’s home - to meet “over a large map and a bottle of wine”, surrounded by cultural artefacts, maps and photographs from his trips abroad. The company also hosts regular talks and practical workshops to encourage clients to do something different with their holidays. Doing something different doesn’t have to mean a hard slog around historical monuments and obscure villages, as Alex Malcolm, founder of bespoke luxury travel specialist Jacada Travel, points out. “There’s a lot more to travelling than
just sightseeing,” he says. “It’s about allowing you to explore a destination in a way that speaks to your particular interests. Some clients might just wish to explore off-the-beaten-track hikes; others might want to discover the best spots for wine and dine. Everyone has a different agenda.” Of course, some things are permanently off the menu. “We say no to hunting,” Malcolm explains. “Wherever your opinion lies, it’s not something any of us at Ja cada got into the travel industry for.” Malcolm was inspired to launch Jacada Travel in 2008, after living in Rio. Like Oschetti, he believes people need to get more out of their time away. “Living in a well-off city like Hong Kong can narrow your view. Family travel is great for broadening children’s horizons,” he says. Each of Jacada Travel’s “travel designers” has recent, in-depth experience in Latin America, Asia, Africa, Europe, Australasia or the polar regions. The company also has local guides in all its destinations.
The best-laid plans of mice and men... Travel is an operations business with moving parts and sometimes things go wrong. Usually when this happens, it’s up to you to sort it out which can be stressful and involve a lot of wasted time. However, if you’ve arranged your holiday through a bespoke travel specialist, there should be someone monitoring your journey, ready to handle any problems should they arise. Jacada Travel is particularly well-prepared for such situations, with offices in multiple continents and a concierge in each region. “Recently we had a US client whose flight to South Africa was delayed by nearly 24 hours, resulting in him missing a train that runs only twice a month,” says Malcolm. “We spoke to train operator and got the train to stop just outside the city, where the client - whom we collected from the airport in a car - caught up with it and jumped on. It was like Mission Impossible!”
Image courtesy of Jacada Travel
Founder, Jacada Travel
olm
alc Alex M
Best travel experience: Going on holiday with my mum and sister for the first time in 20 years - it made mum very happy. We rode horses in Patagonia. Worst travel experience: Watching people throwing rubbish in the water off the coast of Brazil, home to some beautiful coral. Favourite travel book: Old Patagonian Express by Paul Theroux. Where would you like to go next on holiday? Mongolia. “I never travel without…” A comfy pair of sweatpants.
On the Rovos Rail, travelling through the Kalahari Desert to Namibia.
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Image courtesy of Jacada Travel
travel
Chile.
Money, money, money Of course, this kind of service doesn’t come cheap. Jacada Travel’s clients typically spend around US$8,000-10,000 per person on a trip, and some spend significantly more. Quintessentially Travel is also focused on the luxury end of the market, though Lau points out that clients do get cheaper rates and better access because of the company’s extensive network. “Our clients are high net worth individuals with busy lives. Many are business executives with families looking for stand-out holidays,” she says. “But we have over 36,000 partnerships in over 100 destinations, so we can secure 4-5* hotels at reduced prices as well as access to amenities, upgrades and unadvertised excursions, so the entire experience becomes much more affordable than you might think.”
Bespoke travel: a rich man’s world? “Absolutely not,” says Adrian Bottomley, founder of Whistling Arrow, which creates and manages intrepid adventures for families and friends. By their nature, these trips often take place in remote and inaccessible locations that lack any luxury travel infrastructure.
“For example, just over a year ago we were contacted by a group of friends interested in a unique, immersive cultural adventure in Tibet,” says Bottomley. “And so, in November 2015, they stayed with Khampa nomads in their large black yak-wool tents and joined them at their annual spiritual festival on the Tibetan grasslands. They also spent time with a family of renowned Tibetan bronze statue-makers in their remote valley home and photographed Cham dancers performing in a nearby hilltop village: home to a stunning 12th Century Sakya-sect monastery. There, they witnessed one of the most extraordinary and esoteric tantric rituals - a Vajrakila sand mandala ceremony. This two-week adventure cost about $28,000* per person; not cheap but hardly in the realms of the super-rich either.” Every year, Whistling Arrow offers at least one “first foray” expedition. Despite the company’s extensive experience operating in remote locations, things sometimes do go wrong. “Most of the time, given many of our trips explore remote Himalayan and Tibetan peaks, client problems are related to acclimatization,” explains Bottomley. “But every so often, a seatof-your-pants adventure tests us to the limit. In
Founder, Whistling Arrow Best travel experience: A solo expedition to forge a new trekking route around the three spectacular and sacred Adrian Bot tomley peaks of Yading, in eastern Tibet. Worst travel experience: Being robbed at arrow point, in the remote Papuan jungle, at night. Favourite travel book: The Way of the White Clouds by Anagarika Govinda. Where would you like to go next on holiday? The Pamir mountains in Central Asia - many such remote areas are becoming more accessible with the recent ‘One Belt, One Road’ initiative by the Chinese government. I’d also love to swim with humpback whales in Tonga! “I never travel without…” a tub of talcum powder.
Best travel experience: A trip to Peru’s Lake Titicaca - it was like being in a dream. We also visited the Uros tribe on their floating island which was incredible. Worst travel experience: A trip to Sweden where my luggage was lost in transit from London. It got there eventually but it wasn’t the best start.. Favourite travel book: The Art of Travel by Alain De Botton. Where would you like to go next on holiday? Rapa Nui in Chile and Cheval Blanc Randheli in the Maldives. “I never travel without…” My camera.
Eldi Lau
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Image courtesy of Whistling Arrow
Lifestyle Travel Sales Manager at Quintessentially Travel
Tibetan monks performing a rotary Cham dance at a festival near Tagong, eastern Tibet.
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Image courtesy of Whistling Arrow
travel
With a local nomadic family near Litang, eastern Tibet.
April 2016, on a private expedition to document and photograph the towering treehouses of the Stone Korowai tribe in Indonesian Papua, our party was robbed at arrow point. But we dealt with it, and I’m glad to say both our clients and I are still here to tell the story!” Amongst its more challenging requests, the team at Whistling Arrow has arranged a private trekking trip into the wilds of eastern Tibet to hunt for the fabled Himalayan Blue Poppy, a rhododendron based trekking trip to northern Yunnan, and a private expedition to one of the last remaining villages in eastern Nepal that produces traditional, hand-woven, natural-dyed Tibetan rugs.
CEO and Co-founder, Afini Best travel experience: Growing up we moved every two years: my father was a Bolivian civil engineer and was sent around the world on various jobs. I lived in the outback in NW Australia where I passed kangaroos and aborigines daily on my way to school - the nearby sheep station held emu races on weekends. Dad was also involved in building a hydroelectric dam in the Amazon - once the area was drained, 25 anacondas were left on river bed and they created a snake zoo for the kids. Worst travel experience: Years ago, a friend and I were driving to Belgium to go climbing. At the border, the guard’s cocker spaniel started going crazy. We were stopped and stripsearched. Favourite travel book: The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway. Where would you like to go next on holiday? Mongolia - the Trans Siberian Railway “I never travel without…” A photo of my kids and a gin and tonic.
nco
John Bla
In Indonesian Papua, our party was robbed at arrow point. But we dealt with it.
Afini residence at Menau, Koh Samui.
Join the club Launched in Hong Kong at the end of last year, Afini brings yet another perspective to the bespoke travel concept. CEO and co-founder John Blanco explains, “Afini was designed as a solution for my personal - and a common regional - travel problem. My wife and I have four children, plus a helper. We often holiday with friends too. Usual hotel bookings just ended up being a few boxes in a bigger box - not conducive to spending time together.” Blanco invested in a holiday home in Portugal, but going to the same place every year became boring and a maintenance headache. So, together with other well-known names in the luxury business (investors include the founder of Potatohead and Smailing Tour, members of the founding management team of US-based luxury destination club Inspirato and the ex-CEO of Indonesian airline company Garuda), Blanco set up Afini, a luxury destination club for Asia. “Afini has over 25 luxury properties around the world, accessible only to our members at up
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to 60 percent below comparable villa rates. We also layer in our own staff in each destination to ensure a level of service and familiarity. Each residence has a destination concierge, available 24/7, who oversees the itinerary and can offer expert guidance on the local area,” says Blanco. Specifically, 90 percent of Afini’s properties are residences. The remaining 10 percent are “iconic hotel partners”, such as The Upper House in Hong Kong. “We secure our residences through long term leases so the nightly rates that we charge clients are very low,” explains Blanco. Afini members are assigned a dedicated “lifestyle consultant” who plans everything, from arrival to departure, excluding flights. “It’s about anticipation to the nth degree,” explains Blanco, “whether it’s finding your favourite wine waiting for you in the kitchen, to specially arranged morning yoga classes.” Member privileges include exclusive access to other clubs, curated experiences and luxury services, such as private tours at Art Basel, access to Simpson yachts, Aqua expeditions on
the Mekong and the Amazon and complimentary airline club membership (platinum for Garuda Indonesia, gold for Etihad). There are 100 founder memberships available (for an auspicious US$8,888 each). Annual dues are US$2,000. “ 40 memberships have been taken so far.
Afini residence at Naam Sawan, Phuket.
tailor made
Image courtesy of TravelLocal
Co-founder, TravelLocal Best travel experience: Seeing mountain gorillas in the wild in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, western Uganda. Worst travel experience: Probably my honeymoon! We went to Spain for a few days but our tour operator (big, international) didn’t get things quite right. Favourite travel book: Foreign Devils On the Silk Road by Peter Hopkirk. Where would you like to go next on holiday? A repeat trip to Georgia - amazing scenery, fantastic wine and food and some old friends I have to catch up with. I would also love to take my family on a safari and spend time on some really remote beaches - maybe the Togean Islands in Indonesia. “I never travel without…” A compass. It sounds a bit old fashioned, but they are incredibly useful, especially in old cities.
en
Huw Ow
Lake Mutanda, Uganda.
Going online Bespoke travel is also going online. Global web platform TravelLocal connects travellers with local companies in their chosen destinations. Everything is done online, from the initial query, to booking to payment. “The travel industry has become a sort of gigantic assembly line factory, churning out generic and instantly forgettable trips,” says co-founder Huw Owen, who used to run a local travel company in Cambodia. “We sensed that travellers were fed up and looking for more knowledge and insight. When you think about it it’s absurd to ask a company in the UK or Hong Kong about travel to Cambodia. It makes far more sense to ask a local expert. We created TravelLocal to help travellers do exactly that. Our local partner companies are chosen for their amazing local knowledge and contacts.” TravelLocal’s customers range from 20 to 86 years old and book everything from homestays
to luxury resorts. “Typically we see families and couples spending $15,000 - 30,000 per person for a two week trip to countries such as Tanzania, Morocco and Uzbekistan. But we’ve also had bookings for $4,000 to Costa Rica and $300,000 to China,” says Owen. “Hong Kong is one of our key areas. Hong Kongers love to travel but they’re also savvy buyers and we dovetail nicely with that outlook.” Owen admits that although requests are rarely declined, it does happen occasionally. “We once had a request from two expats in Hong Kong who wanted to visit the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan - possible but not exactly easy. Someone also asked to go to Afghanistan - but we had to say no. I had a request at my former company from someone who wanted to travel from China to Japan by train. ‘I’m terribly sorry, Sir, but there’s 800km of ocean between them....’”
Trends for 2017 “Costa Rica has gone crazy. Iran is heading that way. We get a lot of bookings for Myanmar and Vietna m is an old favourite. We’re also seeing a lot more fa mily safaris. If you like the idea the Caribbean, go to Nicaragua (look up the Corn Islands) or Colombia. For safari, try Uganda - it has the Big 5 plus mountain gorillas. If you love the desert then you must see Na mibia where you can stargaze under some of the darkest skies on earth. If you’re a bucket-lister, try the Silk Route (Beijing-to-Tashkent), the Serengeti, Patagonia and the incredible cities of Iran.”
“ The Maldives is very popular at the moment, as well as Japan and Seoul in Korea. London and Paris continue to be top destinations, but we are also seeing a lot more requests for off-the-beaten track experiences. Private islands are on the rise, as well as eco-friendly resorts. I would recommend a trip to the vastly under-explored continent of South America. Colonial and native history have intermingled and produced some of the most vibrant cultural landscapes in the world.”
- Eldi Lau
Contact information Quintessentially Travel 2/F Teda Building, 87 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan. Call 3752 2076 or email info@quintessentiallytravel.com, www.quintessentiallytravel.com
Jacada Travel 17/F, Oriental Crystal Commercial Building, 46 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central. Call 2110 0537 or email travel@jacadatravel.com, www.jacadatravel.com
TravelLocal Enquire, book and pay online at www.travellocal.com
Afini For enquiries and bookings contact Emma Symonds, Director of Sales at esymonds@afini.com, 5801 9974, www.afini.com
Blueflower Travel Call 3975 8193 or email hello@blueflower.la, www.blueflower.la
Whistling Arrow Call 2811 8892 or email adrian@whistlingarrow.com, www.whistlingarrow.com
* All prices in Hong Kong Dollars unless otherwise stated.
- Huw Owen
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health & beauty
" I'm an
My husband didn’t know. He travels a lot and is a normal drinker. I looked like I had my shit together but I didn’t.
The biggest thing is the loneliness. I
expat mum and an
needed a drink to be social. But drinking doesn’t solve insecurity. It allows you to avoid dealing with it. My anxiety got worse. I stopped feeling good. I just felt sick. But I still didn’t know I had a problem...
I thought I can’t possibly be an alcoholic. I had stopped drinking for a year when I was pregnant. And I occasionally gave up for a few days at a time.
It was like someone pulling a string really, really slowly. My life was starting to
"
alcoholic
From long lunches to AA - one woman tells her tale.
F
rom the outside, it looked like I had it all. But inside I was empty.
My life was unravelling and I didn’t understand why. Alcoholics Anonymous saved me.
I came to Hong Kong as a trailing spouse. I’d had a great career, but when my husband got a job in Hong Kong I quit and came with him, and we started to raise a family. My life seemed idyllic: Big house, domestic helpers, driver, long lunches with other mums, afternoons at the pool. But, without a career to define who I was, I was struggling.
No one knew I was alcoholic. I didn’t know I was an alcoholic. My drinking wasn’t out of control. But it got very, very frequent. I gravitated towards other women who were like me. It was civilized. We didn’t go to Lan Kwai Fong. It was more afternoons in private clubs nice wines, the long lunch scene.
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Drinking is so easy in Hong Kong. You have a driver, you have Uber, to get you home. You have helpers to get the kids off to school in the morning. At no time are your children being neglected while you drink alcohol. In the evenings, I’d drink more either at home or at a dinner party.
I never thought I was an alcoholic. There was always someone else in the group who drank more than me. We used to laugh about our drinking. I never worried.
The pain began when my son started primary school. Several friends had left for new posts abroad and I started to feel more and more anxiety. I hated going to my son’s school. He would be playing a sport after school and I hated being there. I was struggling to get through the day. Waiting for 5pm.
I used to start drinking at 5pm. If I was drinking on my own I would last four hours. 5pm would take me through to 9pm.
unravel. I wasn’t the person I used to be. I found it hard to make decisions. I procrastinated. Lost confidence. Became more self conscious. I was unravelling. The ability to experience joy and happiness was leaving me.
Get to a meeting… Hong Kong AA has over 40 English-language meetings each week. If you want to stop drinking you are welcome at all meetings. If you’re unsure about whether you are an alcoholic or want to find out more on behalf of someone else, visit an open meeting. Here are some central locations.
Mid-levels 12 Borrett Road, Mid-levels, Hong Kong Island. Getting there: Go to Central or Admiralty MTR and then take a 10 minute taxi ride up the hill to Borrett Road (in Cantonese Bollo Dough.) Top tip: Meetings are held every night at 6.30pm. Monday 6.30pm is a “beginner’s meeting” ideal for non-alcoholics interested in learning more about the programme for themselves or someone else. Get there a few minutes early and say hello to the meeting secretary. And don’t worry - everyone was nervous attending their first meeting.
Central St Joseph’s Church Room B, 37 Garden Road, Central, Hong Kong Island. Getting there: 10 minutes walk from Central/ Admiralty MTR stations – just a little further up the hill, past The Peak tram and on the opposite side of the road to the US Consulate. The meeting room is at the rear of the church. Background: Daily hour long meetings, Monday to Friday, at 7.45am and 1pm. Top tip: There is a beginner’s meeting each Monday at 7.45am, open to those wishing to just learn more about recovery. (Contact Matt 9105 9202). A “Women Only” meeting is held every Monday from 1-2pm for women who want to stop drinking. There are also regular meetings in Sai Ying Pun, Wan Chai, Yuen Long, Stanley, Discovery Bay, Tung Chung, and Lamma Island. An LGBT meeting is held at Borrett Road, 11.30am Saturday morning.
Credit: Shutterstock
AA
When do you tip from being “fun” to being an alcoholic?
There was no disaster moment. It was the small subtle things. The number of hours in the day when I was effective - when I was not drunk or hungover - got shorter. I started to miss important events. Let my children down.
the forefront of Alcoholics Anonymous. I could join the meeting without having to worry about anyone knowing
their phone numbers. I instantly had a support network of women around me.
that I could begin to heal.
There were episodes. For example, my birthday. I was smashed. I turned up early. Got into a bottle. Had a row with my husband. I was the drunk that I hated to see when I was young. I was slowly losing respect for myself.
Sitting in that meeting was a revelation. The women told me what it was like for them. They honestly told me. I identified with their stories. It was the first time in my life that I was with a group that felt the same way I did.
I contemplated suicide. I sat there in the shower. I wanted to end it all and I didn’t know how to escape the downward spiral. And I still didn’t know it was the drinking.
My doctor told me to quit drinking for 30 days. I changed doctor.
I’ve never seen anyone drink themselves smart, happy or successful.
I had looked at the AA website (www.aa-hk.org) a few times. I had called the number a few times. But I did not think I was an alcoholic. Finally I thought, maybe I can just go and take a look. Maybe they could teach me to control my drinking.
The first time I went to AA I was so nervous. I went to the Monday women’s lunch meeting at St Joseph’s. I got there early and was ready to run out when a woman who was setting out the chairs said hello and welcomed me. She explained anonymity was at
I had expected a bunch of hopeless drunks. But these women were successful, high achievers. And they were happy and connected to the world. I saw everything I wanted to be in these women. I wanted what they had.
I was really cynical. I expected that I would have to give some sort of commitment or contract. But it wasn’t like that at all. It was just “don’t drink today”. They all gave me
Alcoholism is a disease. Once I knew The people in AA are incredible. They have turned their lives around. I couldn’t talk to a counsellor about my problems. But these women understood me. It’s an incredibly supportive group of people.
So today, the outside is still the same. But inside, everything is different. It happened slowly. I slowly got to build the life I want. My relationship with my husband and family is great. I do so much more. My days are really full now. I feel useful. I feel awake. I feel alive. I’m growing again. I respect myself again.
I sponsor women. Women selflessly showed me their program of recovery. Now, when a woman comes into the room I can show her how I got sober. And I do that through sponsoring. If you are concerned you may have a drinking problem or wish to learn more about Alcoholics Anonymous, call Hong Kong AA’s hotline on 9073 6922 or email aahelp@aa-hk.org WWW.SOUTHSIDE.HK | 63
Road railings
zim city
T
ravelling offers a perspective on how effectively we are designing our city. Comparisons provide an opportunity to learn about what works and what does not. My focus when visiting other cities is often on transport, traffic design and engineering, as these decisions impact strongly how people enjoy the city. My recent trip to London was particularly interesting, as Hong Kong’s ‘Transport Planning and Design Manual’ is based on pre-97 UK standards. Although cold, the weather was dry and I borrowed a friend’s bicycle to experience the city. One immediate and obvious observation was that London has removed almost all of its road railings. From South Kensington to Elephant and Castle to Acton Town, railings have been removed, pavements have been remodeled, the kerb lowered and traffic signs dramatically reduced and - where possible - combined onto lamp posts. Guard railings were introduced in the 1930s in the UK. Hong Kong followed suit. There was a warning against their overuse in The Design and Layout of Roads in Built-up Areas (1946) which stated, “the indiscriminate erection of guardrails or barriers...would give rise to an unpleasant feeling of restraint”, but it was not until 2007, when the Manual for Streets codified the design of streets in the UK as safe and successful places, that railings started to be removed everywhere in London. This is all part of a ‘shared space concept’, first developed in the Netherlands by Hans Monderman. He proved that an individual’s behavior in traffic is more positively affected by the built environment than by conventional traffic control devices and regulations. He found that roads are safer when people seek eye contact with other road users and drivers reduce speed when they have contact with pedestrians and take greater care.
This is exactly what happens on Jordan’s small streets or on Wellington Street in Central during lunch time, when pedestrians take over the streets because pavements are too narrow. Reducing the top speed of vehicles is key. With our short and congested roads this will not impact average journey time much, but it will make our city more enjoyable for pedestrians. The redesign of London’s busy roads has had a positive effect on road safety and revitalized communities and business, as road users’ behaviour has become influenced by human interactions rather than by artificial regulation. It is time now for Hong Kong to overhaul our outdated street design manuals! How do we convince the Government to adopt the latest street design codes from its former colonial masters?
Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
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Ask a vet... Dr. Pauline Pets Central veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions.
Woof!
pets
Q: “ My dog as a tendency to “roll” in mud and poo. Why does he do this?” - Samantha, The Peak
A: T o be perfectly honest no one, including scientists and animal behaviourists, really know why dogs do this but they definitely do! They also seem to delight in this pastime much to most people’s disgust. Dogs have a much better sense of smell than humans. It is reckoned that some breeds like bloodhounds and bassets, those dogs humans train to use their noses to work for us, have around 500-600,000 times more cells than us in their nasal passages that detect smells. Can you imagine if you were a dog what it would be like to walk along the beach and suddenly smell a delicious dead fish? It appears dogs do not like nice smells like we humans. It is well documented how many dogs, given the chance after a nice bubble bath, will immediately go and roll in the nearest piece of sand or grass, and get dirty again. Wolves roll in earth and animal matter to disguise their own smell. This helps them in the hunt for prey, to get closer to it before they start the hunt for dinner. Dogs are 98% similar in genetic matter to wolves, their common ancestor, so it is probably acceptable that (given the chance) a dog rolling in mud and poo is an inherited behaviour that in modern dogs has not yet been bred out. Q: “Why does my dog eat grass?” - Emily Jones, Sai Kung A: T he jury is out on this. Your dog may have an upset stomach, and eats grass blades to help him vomit and purge his system. Another theory is that the dogs are eating grass to mimic a “lost nutrient” of their ancestors found usually by hunting and then eating the contents of the stomachs of herbivores. A third theory is that dogs just do it because to them, it’s fun and they can.
Got a question for Dr. Pauline? Email editorial@fastmedia.com.hk WWW.SOUTHSIDE.HK | 65
Horoscopes
hong kong horoscopes
AQUARIUS Jan 21 – Feb 19
PISCES Feb 20 – Mar 20
ARIES Mar 21 – Apr 20
TAURUS Apr 21 – May 21
You will meet a tall dark stranger in a Lan Kwai Fong club. They might promise you the earth: You can start with a vodka lime soda. They’ll ask you to head back to their place, but think before accepting. Sure, they’re looking good on the neon-lit dancefloor, but will that translate to long-term happiness? In love, as in life, discretion is the better part of Volar.
Life is a hotpot, and we are but the ingredients. It bubbles and simmers along, buffeting us around. But what kind of ingredient are you, Scorpio? Are you a piece of beef, oh-so-quick to change with your surroundings? Are you a noodle strand, always sliding to the bottom? Or are you a humble fishball, seemingly unremarkable – but always bobbing to the top? Try to be a fishball, Pisces.
The latest hip Hong Kong restaurant has just opened, and you’re desperate for a table. Chill out, Aries. When a restaurant first opens, everything’s a mess. The kitchen’s not a team, the serving staff doesn’t know the dishes, and chaos reigns. Doesn’t sound like the nextlevel dining experience of your dreams, does it? Things take time to come together, and sometimes you just have to let them happen. Just don’t leave it too late. Chances are, that hip new eatery will be closed in six months.
Is your commute to work getting you down? In this city of convenience, even a 10-minute ride on the MidLevels escalator can start to drag. Taurus, keep those spirits bullish by turning your commute into time for yourself. We have to grab our meditation where we may. If that’s five minutes in a cab, so be it. Here’s your mantra: Hommm Kommm, Hommm Kommm….
LEO Jul 23 – Aug 22
VIRGO Aug 23 – Sep 23
LIBRA Sep 24 – Oct 23
SCORPIO Oct 24 – Nov 22
Here is a limerick for you to take to heart, Leo: A young man of Wellington Street / Bought a flat of some 20 square feet / When asked “How’d you squeeze?”/ He said: “With great ease: / I sleep where I shave where I eat.” Be like the man of Wellington Street, and strive to be more adaptable in the face of adversity. Use the tools you’re given not just to make do, but come out on top.
Did you watch the Chinese New Year fireworks? If you watched them in public, then you’ll have heard the universal Hong Kong sound of firework appreciation: “Wahhhhhh!” It’s a satisfying noise, Virgo. Try it out! Let it roll out of your lungs in a single breath. Take it, practice it, and then apply it to your life. Ask yourself: What should you be wahhhhing about more?
Your mission this month, Libra: Get out of that insulated bubble. Seek Hong Kong’s far-flung. Jump on a ferry to somewhere unusual. Ride the MTR to the end of the line. Go camping in the wilderness. See what’s hidden in the corners of the city. You’re bound to discover something interesting. And if not, then a French toast and an iced lemon tea will have made the whole thing worthwhile anyway.
Causeway Bay on a Sunday afternoon is a seething mass of humanity. Shoppers, wanderers and tourists all come together in the very heart of the city. In Cantonese, they use the phrase “people mountain people sea” to describe the press of people. It can be overwhelming, sure. But it’s also worth going to celebrate the sheer rush of humanity. Just have a coffee shop in mind for when you need to chill out again.
As transmitted to Adam White, writer, editor and occasional soothsayer. 66 | WWW.SOUTHSIDE.HK
GEMINI May 22 – Jun 21
CANCER Jun 22 – Jul 22
Gemini, how long is it since you last sat down and had a heart-to-heart with yourselves? It’s easy in Hong Kong to concentrate on the outward pleasures, but sometimes you’ve got to step away from the champagne brunch buffet and tend to your inner life. Make like a Trappist monk and retreat inside yourself, or you could be entering the long dark cha chaan teng of the soul.
The year of the rooster has arrived. Why not show solidarity with the Chinese zodiac by giving up chicken for a month? Not on ethical grounds – just because it’s a boringly safe choice. Skip your next chicken meal and order lamb, beef, beetroot, quinoa – anything as long as it’s not chicken. Or crab. You’ll be living a more adventurous life – and the roosters will thank you.
SAGITTARIUS Nov 23 – Dec 21
CAPRICORN Dec 22 – Jan 20
Times of trouble may lay ahead, Sagittarius. If they come about, I want you to ask yourself: WWCYD? It stands for “What Would CY Do?” Ask it, then just go ahead and do the exact opposite. The solutions to your problems lie in opening up, not shutting down. As the Chief Executive could learn, you can’t keep everyone happy – but at least you can be true to your self.
Money worries getting your goat, Capricorn? Maybe you didn’t haul in as much lai see as you thought you would this CNY, or your annual bonus has come up short. Take heart, friend. You might not be scooping up Mark Six-style cash – but then again, no one else does either. Don’t worry: there’s wealth in your future, and it’ll appear like a typhoon 8 on a Monday – just when you need it most.
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St. Stephen’s College
southside secrets... Eric Ho gets a history lesson in Stanley.
S
t. Stephen’s College began life humbly, with only six boarders and one day student, whilst operating on rented premises in Sai Ying Pun. It was founded in 1903, thanks to a group of eight businessmen and community leaders. They wrote to the then Governor of Hong Kong, requesting for a school which could provide an English education to local Chinese children. Compared to St Stephen’s College today, the variety of subjects one could study was far less extensive: English language, grammar, letter writing, history of Middle Kingdom and the Holy Scriptures. Seeing that the college was attracting more students the third Warden of the school, Rev. W.H. Hewitt, advised relocating to a more spacious site which could accommodate at least 100 boarding students. Two locations were considered: Stanley and Deep Water Bay. Stanley eventually won thanks to its long distance from the city and inconvenient transportation links: The Bishop of St. Stephen’s College believed its remote location would prevent students from getting distracted by the glamorous life in the city. Construction of the Stanley campus began in 1928. The School House - where students still board to this day - is fitted with beautiful arched windows and doorways and distinct arcaded verandahs. But boarding life was not without its hardships: in the winter, boarders were only allowed hot baths twice a week. School life came to an abrupt end at the start of Second World War. Retreating from the invading army, the government took over the
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Above: The original six school students.
School House and converted the building into an emergency military hospital. At the time, the school was on Christmas break so most students were away - though this still left behind 60 overseas boarders. Mr Tam Cheung Huen, Head of Chinese Studies, volunteered to stay and protect the boys. On the morning of Christmas day 1941, the last battle to defend Hong Kong against the Japanese invasion was fought on the school grounds. What followed has now come to be known as the “St. Stephen’s College Massacre”. 56 British and Canadian soldiers were bayoneted whilst lying wounded in their beds whilst medical and college staff were imprisoned and murdered. The massacre resulted in the death of over 100 people. Among the victims was Mr Tam Cheung Huen. Once the British surrendered, St. Stephen’s College became a civilian internment camp around 1000 allied civilians were kept there until the war ended in 1945. The damaged inflicted to the School House throughout the war was substantial. School furniture was destroyed, wooden flooring was ripped up and burnt for fuel and the roof on the west wing was destroyed by an air bomb. After the war, the School House was lent to the government to be used as a Police Training School. Finally, in 1947 it resumed its boarding services under St Stephen’s College. A chapel was constructed at the highest point on the school grounds, dedicated to those who died throughout the war. A Remembrance Sunday is held every year in November. School House of St. Stephen’s College 22 Tung Tau Wan Road, Stanley
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